Oxynex® ST Liquid Unique stabilizer for light-sensitive ingredients
Introduction Cosmetic formulators often face a serious challenge when they need to develop a stable cosmetic formulation, especially when using light-sensitive organic ingredients such as:
· Dyestuffs · Fragrances · Active ingredients (e.g. vitamins) · UV filters The light-induced deterioration of ingredients in the cosmetic product has an impact on the physicochemical physicochem ical parameters in numerous personal care products. Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DESM), the active substance in Oxynex® ST Liquid, is a unique molecule which protects light-sensitive ingredients by its specific structure against degradation, and which simultaneously ensures light stability stability..
Oxynex® ST Liquid Improves the stability & efficiency of your products
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Functionality of Oxynex® ST Liquid Light is a form of energy. energy. Molecules, which are able to absorb UV and visible light, light, can be excited excited to a higher energy level upon upon absorption absorption of radiation. Organic colorants, dyes, antioxidants, antioxidants, sunscreens, fragrances & flavor ingredients are examples of this behavior. In the excited state, these molecules are more reactive than in the ground state and may form radicals and degradation products. This leads to a loss in product integrity, color fading, malodor, changes in viscosity etc. Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate (DESM) is the active ingredient in Oxynex® ST Liquid. It was initially designed as a light stabilizer. DESM has a sterically stabilized phenolic function that renders it a very potent antioxidant antioxidant as well as a benzylidene malonate function. Both functions support the stabilization of light-sensitive molecules. At room temperature, the compound is a viscous yellowish liquid and is readily miscible with a variety of cosmetic emollients.
Benzylidene Malonate functionality · Photost Photostabi abiliz lizer er · Triple Triplett energy energy quencher quencher
Carbon chain residues · Hydroph Hydrophobi obicity city · Process Processibl iblee liquid liquid · Miscibl Misciblee with with oil oil
Phenolic functionality · Antioxidant Antioxidant functionality functionality
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Efficacy DESM, the active ingredient in Oxynex® ST Liquid, provides highly effective stabilization of colorants, fragrances, antioxidan antioxidants ts and UV filters. At fairly fairly low concentrations, Oxynex® ST Liquid Liquid now now offers unlimited color variations in the bath & shower segment. It is about to become an indispensable ingredient in all flavored cosmetic applications as well as providing considerable enhancement in the light stability of antioxidant compounds. The formulator’s objective of photostable broad-spectrum sunscreen formulations is now eminently achievable.
up to 10-fold higher light stability
Selection of tested light-sensitive substances at 0.1 % concentration
[%] DESM Dyes
FD&C Blue No. 1
(CI 42090)
D&C Orange No. 4
(CI 15510)
D&C Red No. 33
(CI 17200)
FD&C Yellow No. 5
(CI 19140)
FD&C Red No. 40
(CI 16035)
FD&C Red No. 4
(CI 14700)
Guaiazulene Fragrance compounds compounds Vanillin
0.1 %
0.02 % 0.5 %
Vitamins
Natural tocopherols
0.2 %
UV filters
But Butyl Methox thoxyydibe dibenz nzoy oylm lmet etha hane ne : DES DESM M
Rat Ratio 1 : 0.8 0.8
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Typical effect
Original
Original + 0.05 % DESM
Original
Unexposed
Original + 0.05 % DESM
Exposed
Effect of Oxynex® ST Liquid on the color stability of dyes. A market shampoo sample, colored with a mixture of CI 17200 and CI 47005, can be stabilized with DESM or Oxynex® ST Liqui d
The antioxidant principle of DESM In numerous tests, the excellent antioxidant antioxidant potential of DESM could be demonstrated (e.g. TEAC assay, 1O2-quenching, lipidperoxidation peroxidation of linoleic acid). In combination with the energyquenching effect, Oxynex® ST Liquid contributes to a reduced risk of UV-induced free radical damage to human skin.
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Technical data INCI Appearance Active substance Solubility Storage
Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Yellowish Yellowish liquid liquid to low-melting solid Approximately Approximately 90 % Diethylhexyl Syringylidene Malonate Miscible with cosmetic oils At +15 +15 °C up to +25 °C, °C, protected protected from from light. light.
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Use level · General applications: · Color stabilization:
recommended use level is approximately approximately 0.5 % recommended use level is approximately approximately 0.1 %
Formulation guidelines · Oxynex® ST Liquid Liquid is compatible with cosmetic cosmetic raw materials and can can be directly added to the oil phase of an emulsion. · In aqueous applications applications the addition of a suitable suitable solubilizer at typical concentrations concentrations of 0.1 to 0.5 % may be necessary. necess ary. · In formulations, formulations, pH values values below 6.8 are mandatory mandatory in order order to avoid a color shift. Adjustment Adjustment of the pH has to be performed performed before addition of Oxynex® Oxynex® ST Liquid. Liquid. · In order to prevent prevent any complexation complexation of metal ions, the the use of chelating agents may be considered.
Suggested applications · · · · · ·
Bath and and shower shower applications applications Fragra Fragrance nce Skin Skin car caree Sun Sun care care Hair Hair care care Decorati Decorative ve cosmetics cosmetics
Ordering information Article No.
130217
Name
| Qxynex® ST Liquid
Pack Sizes
| 1 kg, 25 kg
For more detailed information please visit our Web site:
www.cosmetic.merck.de
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We provide information and advice to our customer s on application technologies and regulatory matters to the best of our knowledge and ability, but without obligation or liability. Existing laws and regulations are t o be observed in all cases by our customers. This also applie s in respect to any rights of thir d parties. Our information and advice do not relieve our customers of their own responsibility for checking the suitability of our products for the envisaged purpose.
For more information please contact:
The United States EMD Chemicals Inc. Rona - Cosmetic Business Unit 7 Skyline Drive Hawthorne, New Ne w York 10532 10532 USA Phone: Phone: +1-914-5 +1-914-592-4 92-46 6 60 Fax: +1-914-785-58 04 E-mail: E-mail: rona@emd rona@emdchemi chemicals. cals.com com www.emdchemicals.com
Europe Merck KGaA Dept. Pigments/Cosmetic Pigments/Cosmetic 64271 Darmstadt Germany Phone: Phone: +49-6 +49-61 51-72 51-72 20 20 98 Fax Fax: +49 +49-61 -61 51 51-72 -72 31 31 10 10 E-mail: E-mail: cosmetic@m cosmetic@merck. erck.de de www.cosmetic.merck.de
Asia Cosmetic Customer Service Center Merck Ltd. 6F-5, No 188, Sec. 5 Nanking East Road Taipei Taiwan Phone: Phone: +88 62-2-7 62-2-74227 422788 88 ext. 640 640 Fax: ax: +88 6262-2-7 2-74232 42321 14 E-mail: Corry.Chen@merck
[email protected] .com.tw www.merck.com.tw
Japan Merck Ltd. ARCO Tower, Tower, 5 F 8-1, Shimomeguro 1-chome Meguro-ku Tokyo 153-8927 Japan Phone: Phone: +81-3+81-3-54 54 34-47 11 11 Fax: ax: +81-3-54 3-54 34-47 4-47 04 E-mail: E-mail: merckcos@ merckcos@merck merck.co. .co.jp jp www.merck.co.jp
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