My Three-Dial Radionics Machine Posted on January 4, 2011 by josephmax
I’ve just completed work on a new device: a threedial, two-plate “Cosimano”-style resistance-tuned machine. I’ve wanted a small, portable “black box” device like this, but was reluctant because three-dial boxes usually have very small stick pads and witness plates. I prefer a stick pad at least 3×3 inches and a witness plate big enough to place a small photograph on it without it sticking over the edges. But a sudden flash of inspiration while looking at a small bass guitar amp-head led me to come up with a way to do it, by thinking in “three-dimensions.”
The components for the box Instead of putting everything on the top panel of the box, I realized I could mount the three tuning dials on the front-facing surface of the box (like a guitar amp), leaving the entire top surface available for the plates. The top is about 6-1/2 by 4-1/2 inches, plenty of space for plates. The box is made of bakelite (phenolic resin) which was a rare find – most electronic “project boxes” are made of ABS plastic, and I’ve always been wary of plastics for radionics work – I try to stay away from plastic cases for my machines. I prefer wooden cases, but if Dr. Hieronymus is to be believed, bakelite has much the same properties as wood when it comes to working with eloptic energy.
Dials, plugs and crystals mounted in the case, ready for wiring It’s a pretty simple device, however I’ve added a few extra modifications. The basic design is a passive circuit, but I wanted it to have a “amplifier”, so I used a block of orgonite and a crystal I had lying around the shop and devised an “orgone power amp” to use instead of an electronic gain stage circuit. Conceptually, it should work, and I could sense it generating live orgone as strongly as any of my orgone wands. Any eloptic energy passing through the coil should get a boost from the scalar field radiating from the orgonite/crystal core.
Crystal/organite amplifier I took the block of orgonite, and wrapped 24-turns (my machines all have coils wound in multiples of eight) of insulated magnet wire around the block, leaving lots of extra wire “tails”, then mounted it to a small, crystal mirror with beveled edges (makes the mirror a circular prism). I wrapped the base of a small quartz crystal with a strip of brass (conductive metal) to make a collar, and held it in place with cyanoacrylate glue, making sure the metal was in contact with the quartz. Then I carefully glued the inside of the collar to the top of the orgonite, making sure the metal edge was in contact with it. So, the “circuit” is: mirror–>orgonite–>metal bezel–>quartz crystal, which makes for a good orgone “Holy Hand Grenade” type device. The coil wires are used to connect it into the output of the tuning circuit, between the last tuning dial and the stick-pad/output.
Final assembly Each tuning dial is a precision, sealed 10k ohm potentiometer. I found some metal dial plates with 0-100 increments to give the dials a very professional look, which is a much more accurate scale than knobs with numbers on them. (And I didn’t have to deal with decals for the numbering.) The stick pad is an eight-turn bifilar coil of magnet wire sandwiched between a layer of vinyl (vinyl plastic is a known insulator of eloptic energy) and a touch-pad of bakelite. The witness plate is a solid brass plate, a layer of bakelite, and another layer of brass, which is connected to the wires, which then pass through small holes in the top. The leads are long enough to open the box and rest the top on the bench, so I wrapped the wires with heat-shrink tubing and put a dab of silicon goop over the holes to reinforce the wires – magnet wire can break easily if it’s flexed too much. A double-terminated quartz crystal with eight turns of wire is in the circuit between each pot to increase the tuning sensitivity (a total of three). The witness and stick plates are paralleled to the input and output connections, so I can plug in hand contact grips, conductive wrist bands, or an external witness well. I can also inject audio or RF signals into the device. To the outputs I can attach probes, antennas, or feed into an external amplifier for improved broadcasting power. I decided run all the wiring to a terminal block, in order to keep it neat and make the wiring more solid than is possible when soldering everything directly point-to-point. I also added a grounding post to the back panel. The screw-on wire connections on the terminal block also allow me to make easy modifications later. I might add an active electronic VHF amplifier in the future – there’s still lots of room left inside the case.
The finished 3-Dial Black Box The whole project took me two days, once I had all the parts gathered. I’d imagine this is basically the same device as the 3-dial black boxes sold on various websites and on eBay, (like here) but with the unique crystal-orgonite amplifier. I figure I spent less than $100US on it in parts, but all of the parts are the finest available. In both magick and technology (and in magickal technology) I believe that good materials and craftsmanship make for better results. The bakelite enclosure and stick pad, brass witness plate, high quality pots, clear crystals, terminal mount wiring, not to mention the orgone amplifier, make this 3-Dial Black Box as good or better a quality device than ones I’ve seen for sale on the internet for much more money –like this, and this, and this. (Don’t get me started…) So now, I’ll do some experiments with the new machine and see what happens! Update: I got good stick and pendulum reactions from the device using my own hair as the witness. So far so good! Update 2: In response to a request in the comments, here’s the schematic diagram:
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About josephmax Aetheric Artist View all posts by josephmax → This entry was posted in Psionics, Radionics and tagged Psionics, Radionics. Bookmark the permalink. ← Oscilloclast Surgery My One Dial Radionics Machine →
32 Responses to My Three-Dial Radionics Machine
1.
Kmj says: January 4, 2011 at 4:21 am Wow!! Thanks for posting this. Reply
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Sorynzar says: January 4, 2011 at 7:52 am Looking good, I like the dial layout. One way I have made more room with my devices is to mount the stick pad on the side of the box, depending on which hand you use for the stick pad, mount it on that side. Reply
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Wolfgang says: January 8, 2011 at 8:51 am Hi josephmax Amazing job you do. I own a very old Abram Unit Can you contact me, thanks Wolfgang Reply
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antonio augusto costa says:
May 8, 2011 at 5:06 pm Hi! Iam so curious to know how did you do this machine. Have you any manual or only by yours natural inspiration. I would like to do that.Can you tell me how? Thanks in advance. Antonio Augusto Costa Reply
5.
Mike Sheehan says: May 14, 2011 at 10:43 am Hello, May I ask where you found the bakelite box and bakelite plates? I’m looking to use the same material for my radionic units. Thanks! -Mike Reply
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josephmax says: May 14, 2011 at 7:14 pm Hi Mike, The phenolic box I used is available here: http://www.jpmsupply.com/servlet/the-304/Phenolic-Instrument-Case-6-dsh-13fdsh-16/Detail They also carry a smaller phenolic box – look under “enclosures.” Believe me, it wasn’t easy to find! Almost all project boxes are ABS plastic these days. The Bakelite sheets for my machines I get from McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#grade-xx-garolite/=cb3iir They sell it under the brand name “Garolite” (Bakelite being a trademarked name). The “Grade XX” Garolite is made from phenolic resin and paper, which is the original formulation of Bakelite. It’s an organic material with much the same eloptic qualities as wood, except it’s far stronger, more rigid, and water resistant. McMasterCarr will fill small orders – I’ve bought just a foot square piece at a time from them. I generally use the 1/8″ thickness, and most bushings on potentiometers and air caps will mount to a 1/8″ surface. If it’s a small surface area (6″ or less) you can get away with the 1/16″ thickness, but larger than that and it flexes too much.
Be careful drilling Bakelite! Always use a piece of scrap wood under the sheet you’re drilling, or the under-surface will crack. And use a slow drill speed or the stuff will start to burn and melt. Good luck with your builds! You might want to check out the Berkana Path radionics forum, where several of your fellow radionic builders post regularly and we share our tricks and tips. http://www.berkanapath.com/forum/index.php Reply
6.
Gabriel says: August 31, 2011 at 12:46 pm Hi , Nice Work ! Can you post or sendme a handwrite schematic of your machine ,please. thank you ! Reply
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josephmax says: September 1, 2011 at 9:59 pm I’ve updated the post above with the diagram. Reply
gabriel says: September 2, 2011 at 5:17 am thank you very much master !
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gabriel says: September 2, 2011 at 7:40 am Josephmax, what do you think about this desing : http://bit.ly/qCcWYl need your advise. thanks Reply
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josephmax says: September 2, 2011 at 7:49 am I’d say lose the blocking capacitors. They don’t matter to the circuit, and might end up blocking something you want to keep. In my creations, I use an RF amplifier instead audio. Otherwise, it’s pretty much like Jon Logan’s original (where Adam and I copped the artwork.) And for dog’s sake, don’t call me “master”. Makes me feel like a Doctor Who villain. Reply
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gabriel says: September 2, 2011 at 1:54 pm Master Obi Wan Kenobi , i need to use “the force ” Is better to use a RF amplifier than a Audio amplifier in a black box ? can you sugesst me a RF amp schematic ?.. maybe the one that you are using in your desings thank you in advance… and sorry for the joke …. Reply
josephmax says: September 2, 2011 at 5:42 pm I’m working with this circuit: http://www.eleccircuit.com/amfmsw-active-antenna-by-mpf102/ Simple, inexpensive, easy to make, runs off the same 9v power as the rest of the device. It uses the same type transistor as in the 1986 Hieronymus Machine circuit. However, be sure to wire it “backwards” since it’s being used to boost the OUTPUT FROM the machine, rather than the INPUT TO it. For example, when using it with your design, the “ANT” point is connected to the last pot, and the “J” point is connected to the Output jack/stick pad. Just figure that “ANT” is the input and “J” is the output of the circuit.
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gabriel says:
September 2, 2011 at 8:36 pm Do you mean something like this ? : http://bit.ly/pMIgGF. thanks Reply
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josephmax says: September 2, 2011 at 9:28 pm That’s the idea. You could still put the “zapper” coil and circuit in there too, with a power switch. Scan and tune with the zapper off, then when the dials are set, power it up. You might also consider installing shortwave (<390nw) ultraviolet LEDs to shine on the crystals, activated by a "clear" switch, to cleanse the crystals between operations. Reply
gabriel says: September 3, 2011 at 10:06 pm thank you very much for all your help !
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t0ny1 says: September 11, 2011 at 2:56 pm Hi, im new to all of this were do i get the orgonite? thanks! Reply
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josephmax says: September 12, 2011 at 10:35 pm One source is eBay, but it’s variable. The vendor who sold me my last pieces has gone offline. But here’s a resource: http://www.orgonite.info/orgonite-vendors.html
The alternative is you make you own. There are many websites with instructions such as: http://www.orgonite.info/how-to-make-orgonite.html Reply
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t0ny1 says: September 13, 2011 at 4:32 pm Thank you so much! oh and could you tell me if this design would work??? i found it somewhere:P http://t0ny1.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/e-book-free-energy-how-to-build-a-radionicdevice.pdf Reply
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josephmax says: September 14, 2011 at 12:29 am Ah yes, the “radionic heart”! I’ve wanted to build one of these myself, at least the “heart” part of it. I even started on it some months ago – cut the brass disk, gathered most of the parts, but never got around to finishing it. The design is basically the same as typical resistance-dial instruments, with the interesting “heart” section. I’m not sure what the actual purpose of it is in the design, other than being an interesting combination of a magnetron with an orgonite construct in the center. I’m not sure about the connections to the central disk, I was going to try isolating each magnet to it’s own connection point instead of just attaching all those wires to the one metal disk and, in effect, “shorting out” all the connections to each other. As a psionic, rather than radionic, device it has a certain appeal, though. I like the look of it, as a purely symbolic instrument (see my article “Radionics, Psionics and Who Needs Wires Anyway?” for my take on the difference: http://tinyurl.com/3oxvyc4 ) Will it work? That depends a lot on what an operator can do with it. Think of it like a musical instrument: can you play it? Can you *learn* to play it? Reply
t0ny1 says: September 14, 2011 at 4:59 pm
thank you:D
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Patrick says: September 20, 2011 at 1:36 pm are the potentiometers three turn ,10 turns or single turn , where did you buy it ? thnks Reply
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josephmax says: September 21, 2011 at 12:24 am The pots are wire-wound single-turn. I bought a bag of these pots from a surplus store, but they aren’t that hard to find. Try All Electronics or Galco. For knobs and dial plates, these would work well: http://www.galco.com/scripts/cgiip.exe/wa/wcat/itemdtl.r?listtype=&pnum=KNOB %26DIALKITSMALL-KB Reply
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Alain says: February 3, 2012 at 11:17 pm Why you don’t sell this type of device for the one who are not able to do that? I talk about your 3 dials. Reply
14.
777 says: February 23, 2012 at 5:20 am Has anyone attempted to build the radionics device from the book magic of radionics by Occult publishing corp? The book has details of how to make your own radionics device, however the essential diagram showing how to wire the device together is missing. Any advice would be much appreciated. thanks Reply
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Khenu says: April 18, 2012 at 7:11 am Hi Joseph, How to modified the circuit to accept audio from mp3 for affirmations,subliminals,mantras, etccc ? the crystal need to aligned/point to something ? Thanks for the advise. Reply
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josephmax says: April 18, 2012 at 10:27 am To feed an audio signal into devices like the Three Dial or any similar circuit, a transformer needs to be placed in line with the Input jacks, such as this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103254 Otherwise you risk putting a “no-load” condition on the audio device, which can damage it. Wire the secondary (8ohms) to the output of the audio device. Wire the primary (1000 ohms) to the input of the radionic device. You could build this into the device, or build an separate box to use as an interface. In the Three Dial, the main crystal (on the orgonite block) points straight up. The orientation of the other crystals doesn’t matter. Reply
16.
Iakymchuk Oleksandr says: June 26, 2012 at 3:32 pm Hi. I plan to use circles shape orgonite with pink lemurian crystal. May I change circles craft mirror with beveled edges in orgone power amp to circle without bevel edges? Or better to use square or even octagon craft glass mirror w/beveled edges? Sorry for my English. Best regards, Alex Reply
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josephmax says: June 26, 2012 at 8:59 pm
I think either one will work fine. The shape of the orgonite and mirror isn’t important. The important thing is the flat mirror surface itself, and the stacking of mirror->orgonite->metal->crystal. Reply
Iakymchuk Oleksandr says: June 27, 2012 at 5:52 am Thank you for answer. In case, if I can’t find anywhere bakelite project box, can I use plastic box and make hole above crystal for output of eloptic energy?
josephmax says: July 1, 2012 at 12:41 pm The phenolic (Bakelite) project box I used can be purchased online here: http://www.jpmsupply.com/servlet/the-304/Phenolic-Instrument-Case-6-dsh13-fdsh-16/Detail A hole above the crystal is not a bad idea. It would also make cleansing the crystal easier (expose the hole to sunlight). I suggest having a way to cover the hole when not in use, so the inside of the box stays clean of dust and moisture.
17.
cal says: January 18, 2013 at 10:02 am Are you selling these 3 dail boxes? Or is there a place where I can get easy to understand step by step instructions? Reply
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