Mallorcan Psicobloc MiniGUIDE by Daimon Beail Version 1.0 - March 2006
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Mallorcan Psicobloc A Deep Water Soloing guide to Mallorca Porto Cristo Cala Marcal Cala Sa Nau Santanyi Soller Sa Calobra Also contains info on: Cala Mitjana Cala Varquer
James Cole making a splashdown at Sa Calobra. Photo: Daimon Beail
Mallorcan Psicobloc MiniGUIDE by Daimon Beail Version 1.0 - March 2006 ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. Published by ROCKFAX Ltd © ROCKFAX Ltd 2006
Alistair MacDonald climbing at Mitjana Photo: Daimon Beail
Mallorcan Psicobloc MiniGUIDE INTRODUCTION Special thanks to: Alan James, Heidi Spets, James Cole, Mike Robertson, Tim Skinner, Catriona Scott, Katherine Burr, Miquel Riera and Josh Lowell. ROCKFAX MiniGUIDE design by Alan James and Mick Ryan. Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. © ROCKFAX Ltd. 2006
COPYRIGHT NOTICE All rights reserved. No part of this file may be duplicated in any form, or by .any electronic, mechanical or other means, without the prior permission from the publisher.
FOOTNOTE The inclusion of a climbing area in this MiniGUIDE does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descriptions of routes and grades within this MiniGUIDE are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the description. Climbers who attempt a climb of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that climb. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors and publisher of this MiniGUIDE do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.
F R A N C E Barcelona
P O R T U G A L
by Daimon Beail Version 1.0 - March 2006
Welcome to this MiniGUIDE to deep water soloing in Mallorca. The aim of this guide is to bring to light the existing venues on the island and to give those people wishing to deep water solo in Mallorca a point in the right direction.
Madrid
Deep water soloing is still in the early stages of development on Mallorca and many new routes are Palma being added to existing crags, plus whole new areas are being found. This MiniGUIDE should be regarded Alicante Mallorca as an interim guide and hopefully sometime in the future a printed book will be produced to give more Malaga complete coverage. Since this information is relatively untested, there may well be mistakes in some of the details. Please email -
[email protected] if you find anything that you think is missing or incorrect, or wish to inform us about new routes and crags.
SPAIN
Mallorca is part of the Spanish Island chain known as the Balearics, which is in the Mediterranean. As well as being a hot tourist spot in the summer months it is also home to a wealth of climbing, most specifically, as far as this MiniGUIDE is concerned, deep water soloing. The DWS climbing in Mallorca is first class - stunning limestone cliffs covered in pockets, jugs, crimps and tufas, catering for many styles. The many routes available go from as small as five metres to as big as twenty and grades range from 4+ to 8a, most of which carry the S0 tag. There is little or no tide in the Med, something that can become a pain in places like the UK, so the only things to look out for are: rough sea conditions and the possibility of strong currents. WHEN TO GO Most climbers tend to go to Mallorca in late September, early October when the sea is still warm and the average air temperature is in the low 20s. Late October turns into the wettest time of the year so don't leave it too late. April to June are also possibilities but a wetsuit might be needed.
Page 01
INTRODUCTION HISTORY Mallorca is a well known and popular destination for climbers seeking high quality sport routes and good weather. It was not until the late nineties that a certain group of individuals discovered that Mallorca was hiding a big secret 'Deep Water Soloing - a sport which had been developed on the many sea cliffs in the UK. It was in 1992 that Miguel Riera first shed light on the possibilities of Deep Water Soloing in Mallorca by emailing a picture of Porto Cristo's "Cova Del Diable" to the UK climbing community. Not until 9 years later, in October 2001, did Porto Cristo get its first major international visit from Mike Robertson, Tim Emmet and friends. They met with Austrian Klem Loskot and his crew to explore Cova Del Diable and the surrounding areas. Within one week they had managed to put up over 26 routes ranging from 4+ to 8a which, once added to Miguel Riera's three exciting routes, made 29 in total. In February 2002 Mike Robertson's article about Cove Del Diable was published in the UK's Climber magazine, revealing its location and all 29 routes. The following year (2002) the team returned to add lines to Cove Del Diable and explore further possibilities. In 2003 Cala Sa Nau was also developed along with Sa Calobra, Cala Santanyi and Port De Soller. The latter three crags were developed by a small team of Deep Water Soloers exploring alternative environments which were home to some less intimidating routes. Development continues to this day with people from around the world visiting this island to explore new areas. ACCESS Most of Mallorca is private land but so far access to the venues has not been an issue. As always, take great care when approaching any of the cliffs, don't disturb the vegetation of fences and walls, and leave politely if asked to do so.
OTHER GUIDES At present there are no other books on DWS for the island but there are some in the pipeline. The MiniGuide to Mallorca was published in 2004. A new print guide will be available in November 2006.
NEW ROUTES New route and area information can be emailed to
[email protected].
CONTENTS
Symbol Key
1 A good route. 2 A very good route. 3 A brilliant route. t Technical climbing involving complex or trick moves. p Powerful moves requiring big arms.
s Sustained climbing, either long and pumpy or with lots of hard moves.
f Fingery climbing - sharp holds! r A long reach is helpful/essential. g Rounded holds may be found. o A dyno is required. h Heart Fluttery climbing. l Loose Rock. 1 - 4+ and under - 5 to 6a+ 2 d Death Route. 3 - 6b to 7a q A Deep Water Solo. 4 - 7a+ and above
Porto Cristo Cala Marcal Cala Sa Nau Santanyi Soller Sa Calobra Cala Mitjana Cala Varquer
Page 04 Page 14 Page 19 Page 21 Page 23 Page 26 Page 29 Page 29
MAP KEY Mountain peak Minor road Highway Main Road Dirt track River or stream River in built up area Way to destination Path Boulders Vegetation House or Hotel Parking
LH
INTRODUCTION FLIGHTS
GETTING AROUND
Flights to Mallorca can be found with many companies the main ones are:
A hire car is the best choice. Lots of accommodation companies deal directly with their own car companies making things easier when booking. If you choose to book separately there are many to be found on the web. It's best to book before you go.
BMI: British Airways: Easy Jet: Thomson Fly.com: Airtours: Air Berlin:
All flight are to Palma.
ACCOMMODATION There are lots of fantastic villas, apartments and hotels on offer but no camping. Wild camping is allowed but restrictions are in place making it quite difficult to do. See www. dwsworld.com and www.rockfax.com for more details. Out of season the villas are a very reasonable price and highly recommended. There are also many cheap package holidays to be found on the net and with travel agents.
GRADES All Grades are presented in a dual format. French grades give the technical aspect of the route and the British "S" grade delivers the general impression of what it's like to solo the route.
S0 =
Safe and relatively non-committing. Usually with a low crux move and any falls lead to a clean projection into the water.
S1 =
A caution rating. Normally the routes are higher making the falls a bit harder. They may also contain a high crux making stepping off them clearly a bit more tricky.
S2 =
Contains most of the elements of an S1 but may also have protruding ledges above or below the water. In some cases the water may be shallow in places making it a lot more committing and bailing out will require a bit of precision to get into the water safely.
S3 =
The connoisseur's DWS. Heady to on-sight! Often shallow, high cruxes, exposed and often genuinely dangerous. Take care!
Lighthouse Town or village Built up area
PMV401-2
Road number Mountainous area
www.flybmi.com www.britishairways.com www.easyjet.com www.thomsonfly.com www.airtours.co.uk www.airberlin.com
Buildings Anchorage
S3 description taken from Mike Robertson's article ‘Mallorcan Devils’ Climber (UK), Feb 2002
Page 02
Page 03
SHOPS There are supermarkets in most of the towns and there is a large hypermarket in Palma that will cater for all your needs. Opening times in Mallorca are normally between 10:00 to 13:30 hrs and 16:00 to around 20:00 hrs. Shops will normally be closed on national holidays and Sundays. The currency is Euros.
GEAR: YOU AND YOUR SAFETY What to take? In September and October: not a lot. The water is so warm that a wet suit is not needed. If you are prepared to wear a shorty then this may help with buoyancy in the water. Two pairs of boots and a chalk bag are all you really need, along with plenty of chalk and sandwich bags to line the inside of your chalk bag. A dinghy is essential for some routes, as they require a boat start. These can be picked up from tourist hot spots very cheaply. One or two places could do with a rope ladder to get out of the water, so if you have one take it along. It goes without saying that you need to be physically fit for Deep Water Soloing. Being a strong swimmer is an essential part of the sport. Always climb in teams of two or more. Never ever solo alone! Make sure that you can always get out of the water by means of ropes etc. It is also a very good idea to take some kind of flotation device, which can be used to assist in a rescue if something should go wrong. A first aid kit and some basic knowledge of how to use it would be helpful. Be sure to judge your own safety at all times especially when in the sea. Remember once you're in it you are going to have to get out of it. Be safe and enjoy yourself!
PORTO CRISTO Some would describe “Cove Del Diable” as being for the hardcore DWS super star, and they would probably be right. Twenty metre high cliffs and steep routes are a nightmare for some but a fantastic dream for others. The cove showcases an awesome overhanging wave of limestone covered in jugs, pockets and crimps. To the right-hand side, looking inward from the sea, the walls become more vertical and turn into virtual slab climbs. Although it is an intimidating environment the climbing is not as bad as it first appears. Before long you may well find yourself tackling a juggy 6c or even a 7a+. The highlight for many is the awe-inspiring Superwoman 7a+ that combines every climbing style imaginable. There is no doubt that you will find something that will inspire and motivate you to make a return trip, as every route at Diablo deserves a star rating.
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable
AUIOP
APPROACH
4 min
Cova Del Diable is on the edge of the small town of Porto Cristo on the east coast. From Manacor take the PM-402 road to Porto Cristo. Once you reach the sea front turn right following the one-way system until you can turn back on yourself and head along the sea front with the ocean on your right. Head up the hill and keep going straight on along the main road into the housing estate. Take the first right, followed by the first left. At the end turn right again and follow the road all the way until you find yourself on the cliff road. Turn left along this and follow it all the way untill it turns sharply left away from the coast. Park on the corner and from here it's a short walk to the cliff edge. C715
C715
MANACOR
HISTORY
Sa Coma Cala Moreia
PM402
If you read the Introduction at the beginning of this guide you will know that Cove Del Diable is what started it all. A picture emailed to the UK climbing scene from Miguel Riera, one of Mallorca's most active climbers, led to an international climbing meet nine years on in October 2001. The likes of Austrian Klem Loskot, British DWS legends Mike Robertson and Tim Emmet descended on the cove to produce over 20 routes. The cove also attracted a large amount of media coverage which included a number of short films and numerous magazine articles.
Cala Morlanda
Crag
C714
Porto Cristo PMV401-4 Porto Cristo Novo
Map not to scale
CONDITIONS The crag faces south east and can get a lot of sun so it stays fairly dry. There is not much seepage around except in spring /early summer when the cove can go from bone dry to soaking wet over night. The holds are generally in very good condition although from time to time they can become greasy from humidity and ocean spray.
PM402
Porto Cristo
Cova Del Diable Area Route 23 Easy Way Down
Cova Del Diable Area
Rou
Ve
wn ay Do sy W ry Ea
22 1 to tes
PMV401-4
Map not to scale
'James Cole' making his way into the cove. (Photo by Daimon Beail)
Page 04
Page 05
Map not to scale
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Left
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Left
P 7 6
P
1
17
2
4
5
17
3
AJPU
ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 1 to 3 are reached by traversing in from the left-hand side of crag or abseiling in. Routes 4 and 5 require you either to swim to the bottom of the routes or use a dinghy. Exit either from your self-made exit point on the left, or swim to the main exit point at the "easy way down" area. CONDITIONS - Routes 4 and 5 may be greasy earlier on in the year due to them being in the back of the cave.
1 The Italian Job ...........2pqc F6b (S1) Seriously overhanging, but the combination of big bucket holds and plenty of them give this route the grade. It works its way up the bulging left edge of the main amphitheatre of Cova Del Diable.
4min
ROUTES - The routes are steep and fierce but generally on juggy holds.
6 Surfing In The Bar 2phqc F7a (S2) The going is straightforward early on, via numerous large holds into a high cave, then be prepared for an exposed last blast to the top. FA. Miguel Riera 1992
7 Surfer Dead ..........2phqc F6c+ (S2) Makes its way up the right edge of the big central cave, pushing on into steep territory. Keep well right of the hanging tufa and be ready for the last few moves which are the crux, few footholds here! FA. Miguel Riera 1992
4 Lets Ave It! .......2pfoqc F7c+ (S2) Very steep! A sea-level start from the left-hand cave, watch the depth for the beginning and work your way to a recess midway up the face. FA. Klem Loskot, Oct 2001
FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
2 Swing Both Ways ......1pqc F6c (S1) A harder alternative to the above, takes a more direct route in the midsection, through more powerful territory. FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001
5 Iguanadon ...............3pqc F7b+ (S1) Similar territory to the route above, following a long juggy rail through the most intensive ground then to the same recess halfway up the crag. FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001
3 Surfing Bird ............3ptqc F7b (S1) From the lower ledge, follow the red/cream streak up through bold ground onto the higher bulge and finally the top! FA. Miguel Riera 1992 "Cova Del Diable" in October. Photo by Daimon Beail
Page 06
Page 07
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Middle
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Middle
7
8 12
13
9
9
10
16
14
15
11
17
17
Rope
ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 8 & 9 are reached by either abseiling in roughly down the line of The Lobster and using the cave at the bottom as a base (may need to clip into a thread or two to keep the rope into the wall as it is steep) or traverse along Superwoman until you reach the cave. Routes 10 to 14 , traverse Superwoman to the bottom of the routes. Exit 'Easy Way Down' area or climb the knotted rope onto the ledge.
AJPU 4min
ROUTES - These are the cove's true classics. Steep intimidating and hard. Only the Free Born Man achievers can enter here!!
10 Ejector Seat .................3pqcF7c (S1) Another of the great routes here! Fire up the steep, pocketed face to a crux move for a tufa pinch, and then swing right to easier ground.
14 Whiplash.................3stpqc 7c (S1) A steep sequency route directly right of Afroman. Hard to flash. FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001
FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001
In The Night, Every Cat Is Black . ...........................................2pqc F8a+ (S1)
11
8 The Lobster ..............3pqc F6c+ (S2) Great route! – long and steep, on good holds all the way to a lay-down rest two-thirds of the way up. Finish off with a relatively easy roof section right at the top.
Quality rock, immaculate and sustained climbing through a number of coloured streaks to a faint groove on the right. FA. Klem Loskot, Oct 2001
FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001
12 Hair Bear................. 2spqc F7c (S1) Tackles the horrendously steep wall to the left of Afroman through a complex sequence of moves then rightwards to easier ground.
9 Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels ..............................2pothqc F8a+( S1)
FA. Ken Palmer, Oct 2001
Still the hardest dws in Spain as far as we know. Sustained climbing to a v10 boulder problem – a dyno to a twin-barrel pocket at an altitude of 40ft. Be afraid! FA. Klem Loskot, Oct 2001 'Daimon Beail' Climbing The Italian Job F6b (S1). Photo by Peter Brown
Page 08
13 Afroman.............3stpqc 7b+ (S1) A really good steep route, one of the best in the cove. Exit the cave on well-positioned pockets, negotiating your way up to the crux moves to gain the horizontal seam. More technical moves gain the niche, and a well deserved rest. FA. Tim Emmett - Oct 2001
Page 09
'Heidi Spets' taking control of Diable. Photo by Daimon Beail
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Easy Way Down Area
Rope Way Down
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Easy Way Down Area
20
Easy Way Down
16 Easy Way Down
18
14
19
17 15
18
Water Exit Water Exit
ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 15 to 20 are easily reached by down climbing the Easy Way Down line all the way to a cave. Some people may prefer descending using a knotted rope slightly to the right. Tie the rope around a flake to keep the rope on the correct path. You can always reverse White Noise to the cave which makes a good warm up. Exit: from the water exit. Make sure a good knotted rope is in place or even better, a rope ladder.
15 Calamares......................3pqc 6c (S1) Easier ground, starting from the line of Superwoman, straight up the steep juggy groove. FA. Neil Gresham, Oct 2001
16 Dogging Romp .............3qc 6a+ (S1) A good introduction to the cove, head leftwards up an obvious diagonal break. Near its end move directly up and over the easy roof section and onto a large ledge. FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
17 Superwoman.....3stpqc 7a+ (S0) A classic long traverse which takes in all that the cove has to offer. Starts from cave at the bottom of the Easy Way Down and works your way through varied climbing at various levels above the sea.
AJOU
4min ROUTES - Things begin to ease off around here and there's plenty to do. The trick is to have a cool head and you will be surprised what you can achieve. All the routes start from the small cave.
20 Slice Of Heaven................3qc 4+ (S1) A great route at a friendly grade. Starts on the traverse of White Noise, crosses the next groove via great holds and on to the airy prow to the right. Make your way up the juggy groove to finish. FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
Easy Way Down
....................................... c 4 (S2)
Climb down onto a large ledge and traverse rightwards until you come to an easy ramp line. Descend this to its end, make your way over a mini slab and move right into a little cave. From here climb down and slightly to the left on good chalked up holds into the cave.
18 White Noise...................3sqc 5+ (S0) Wonderful climbing across clean rock with numerous pockets and the odd tricky move. Normally done from right to left finishing at the cave at the bottom of the Easy Way Down. Its a good way to make your way into the cove. Continue if you can into Superwoman for the ultimate tick! FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
19 First Impressions..........2tqc 6a (S1) A delicate route which climbs the coloured prow just right of the Easy Way Down. FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
FA. Ken Palmer, Oct 2001
'Bernard Exley' on the crux of "Super Woman" 7a+ (S0) at Cova Del Diable. Photo by Peter Brown
Page 10
Page 11
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Right
PORTO CRISTO
Cova Del Diable - Right
20 21
22
22
18 18
ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 21 to 22 are reached by reversing White Noise from the boulder beach. Route 23 is on a head land that sticks out like a boot further right looking in. Walk to the far left-hand side of the cliff and descend where it looks possible to do so. Exit: for 21 and 22 from the main water exit or the boulder beach. Route 23 swim to the left-hand side of the crag (looking in) to the pebble beach.
AIOU
4min ROUTES - The Routes 21 and 22 are easy and ever so slightly slabby, hence the S1 and S2 tags. Route 23 is also easy and normally in good condition.
23 The Voyage....................3sqc 6a (S0) A long traverse over very safe ground and on great holds. This route is on the isolated headland further east along the coast. Start at the left side of the crag (looking out to sea) and traverse along the slightly overhanging wall untill you reach an easy groove after about 50m. FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
21
Eternal Flame .................2qc 5+ (S1)
This route has the holds and pockets of the main cave, but in vertical territory. Drop into the big cave via White Noise, exiting directly up the wall on the right.
The Voyage Area
FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
22 Bonobo...............................2qc 5+ (S2) Follow the path of White Noise to the smooth slab at the far end, then climb the groove to the right of this on juggy holds.
23
FA. Mike Robertson, Oct 2001
Map not to scale
'Frank Fulcher' traversing "White Noise" 5+ (S0). Photo by Daimon Beail
Page 12
Page 13
CALA MARCAL Cala Marcal is a newly developed area but it seems that one or two of the locals or visiting tourists may have had a go at the odd traverse previously. There are two areas to the crag: The Cala Wall Area and the Main Cliff. Both are easily reached from the parking at the top. In fact this may be the first DWS roadside crag. On a safety note it is worth mentioning that exits can be tricky here. It is possible to scramble out at one or two places but the climbing from these points to the top is hard. You are best advised to bring a rope ladder for safer exits.
CALA MARCAL LA
E DD
R
AHEOP
Rat Dog Roof
Cala Marcal Swim to the ladder
1
2
APPROACH Cala Marcal is one cala south of Porto Colom which is on the south east side of the island. It is relatively easy to get to by following the PM-401 to Porto Colom, then following signs south to Cala Marcal. You will know you are at Cala Marcal when you reach a small sandy beach with a large hotel featuring words Cala Marcal stamped on it. From the beach, continue up the hill and follow the road round to the left (not the first left as its a one-way street) and keep going until you reach a roundabout. Carry straight on until you reach the end where you can park. The main cliff is just in front of you.
8
Easy Way Down 2
Gully
3
es ut Ro
3
to
12
Easy Way Down
Map not to scale
CONDITIONS The crag faces south east which means it gets a lot of sun in the morning but by late afternoon becomes shady. The crag is about 17 metres high and pretty much always eases off at the top. Early in the year, like in June, you may find some of the overhanging routes can get a bit greasy but most of the vertical climbs generally stay in excellent condition.
1 The Marcal Traverse.....1qc F5 (S0) A short and easy warm up. Join the sea cliff were the sharp grey walls finish and the delights of the orange juggy wall start. Follow this all the way past the roof section and exit at the small platform where it gets sharp again. FA. J.Cole, S.Hazel, D.Beail & F.Fulcher 14.06.05
Calas de Mallorca
PMV401-2
FELANITX PM401
Sa Plana Vella
2 Rat Dog ..........................1qc F6a (S0) Follow the traverse to the roof section and power over it mostly on the right.
Porto Colom
FA. J.Cole 14.06.05
Es Domingos
Sant Salvador
PM401
Cala Marcal
HO TE L
S'Horta
Crag
Alqueria Blanca
C717
COLOM
PMV401-2
Cas Concos
LH
PORTO
C714
Cala Sa Nau
C717
Cala d'Or
Cala Serena Cala Ferrera Map not to scale
Cala Marcal
Shop
Crag Map not to scale
A group outing on Rat Dog (F6a) Photo by Frank Fulcher
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Page 15
CALA MARCAL
The Main Cliff - Left
CALA MARCAL
The Main Cliff - Middle
Easy Way Down 2
8
Gully
6
7
9
5
3
10
4
Easy Way Down
ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 3 to 5 are approached by descending the Easy Way Down and traversing past the gully . Routes 6 to12 are found 20 metres further north east where another easy way down can be found. Exit using a rope ladder at the first 'Easy Way Down' area or make some tricky moves exiting around the gully area. Alternatively you could use the small cave a bit further north east along the cliff.
AHEOP
ER DD LA 4min
ROUTES - The routes are all on good juggy holds and most are at
relatively easy angles. CONDITIONS - Routes 4 and 5 can get greasy in the mornings and late evenings.
5 Mortal Combat........2pqc F6b+ (S0) Attack the overlapping wall on good holds until you reach the lip. Follow the two pockets over the lip and move left to find a large jug. Climb the rib from here. FA. Daimon Beail 14.06.05
3 The Fat Crab..............2rqc F6b+ (S2) Traverse onto main wall and attack the crack line which finishes at half-height below a slightly bulging wall. Make some moves out right to better holds, and up to the overlap. Traverse back left until you reach a gap in the lip. Pull onto a small shelf and reach for the top. Good Luck!
20 metres north east from the gully is another easy way down which leads to the start of:
8 Lady Boys .........................3qc F5+ (S0) Find the large hold under the lip on the left and move onto the upper wall following massive holds to the top. FA. James Cole 19.06.05
9 Higher than the Sun......1qc Good climbing on equally good holds. Tricky start.
F6a (S0)
FA. James Cole 19.06.05
Easy Way Down
FA. James Cole 19.06.05
6 Canada.....................................qc F4 (S1) From the bottom of the easy way down follow the curving flake to its end and head to the top from there.
P
4 ET v Predator....................1qc F6b (S1) Moving further right past The Fat Crab you reach a sharp stuck out fin and further still an overlapping wall. Climb the left side of this wall to the right side of the cave which leads to easier ground above.
Gully
FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05
7 Aquafresh ....................1fqc F7a (S1) A fine little wall, just left of the lippy section, offers crimpy climbing via a sloping side-pull. The starting hold is a good two-finger pocket for the right hand.
FA. James Cole 14.06.05
FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05
Way Out
Page 16
Page 17
10 The Odyssey......................2qc F5 (S0) A nice traverse winding its way along the lower break, past a cave, to the arete, where an easy-angled flake leads you to the top. FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05
CALA MARCAL
The Main Cliff - Right
CALA SA NAU Cala Sa Nau is a small sandy cove sheltered from the sea by two headlands, one of which is home to an exciting DWS venue. The headland on the right-hand side of the bay (looking out to sea) starts quite small on the left and increases in height the further right you go. At its far right side is a large cave where most of the hard climbing can be found. If you continue right, round the headland, you will see a small cove with a mini-cave at the back. This is where virgin Deep Water Soloers should hang out; although the climbing is limited here, it can keep you entertained for a few hours with short, mid-grade lines. As the majority of the cave venues have only been mentioned in magazine articles and no topos are available, only the Virgin DWS venue is covered in this MiniGuide.
11
APPROACH
12
From Felanitx, navigate your way around the one-way streets to find the PM-401 signposted to Porto Colom. Eventually you will join the road from Porto Cristo. Turn right, keeping on the PM-401 to Porto Colom. When you eventually come to the junction turn, left and fairly soon after that, make a right signed PMV401-2 to Santanyi. Follow this until you reach the little village of S'Horta. Turn left, following signs to Cala Ferrera, and shortly on the left you will see a sign pointing to Cala Sa Nau. Follow this dirt track all the way to the end and park here. From the narrow parking area, walk along the right-hand side of the bay until you reach some steps cut into the rock. From here you can cut across right to reach the Virgin DWS venue or continue straight on to the harder DWS routes with the large cave at the right-hand end of the headland.
Cave
10
11 Groove Rider ................2qc F6a+ (S0) To the right of the small roof is a crack line. Jamming and laybacks lead you to the top. FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05
12 Time......................... ......2fqc F6a (S0) An alternative finish to The Odyssey. Moving out of the cave and onto the face requires some thin diagonal moves to the upper right-hand corner. Here you will find a small flat ledge above which some easier climbing leads to the top.
Calas de Mallorca
PMV401-2
FELANITX PM401
Sa Plana Vella
Es Domingos
Sant Salvador
Cala Sa Nau
FA. Daimon Beail 19.06.05 PM401
PORTO
C714
www.bigUPproductions.com
Cala Marcal
S'Horta
Big UP's Dosage series is the definitive annual portrait of climbing's state-of-the-art. Volume 2 introduced the world to Mallorca's incredible DWS scene with the short film Psicobloc, winner of six international mountain film festival awards, and Psicobloc 2, featuring Chris Sharma's first visit to the island. Available at:
COLOM
PMV401-2
Cas Concos
Alqueria Blanca
Cala Sa Nau
Crag
C717
Daimon Beail climbing Lady Boys 5+ (S0) at Cala Marcal. Photo by James Cole
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C717
Cala d'Or
Cala Serena Cala Ferrera Cala Egos
Map not to scale
Large Cave
Crag Mini Cave Map not to scale
CALA SA NAU
Left
AUIOP 10 min
6
3
7
4
If you find your need for adventure starts to take over you may want to take a short drive to Es Pontas. This archway is a serious-but-fun outing and there are a number of small problems dotted around it as well as some new hard projects. Getting to it is not easy.
1 ACCESS / APPROACH - Route 1 is gained by a simple down climb and a little walk along a ledge until you start climbing. Routes 2 to 7 are traditionally approached from the water or by reversing Route 5.
Virgins Are Only Human .................................................2qc F6b+ (S0) 1
Walk up the simple ramp until you reach the roof. Then traverse out right and nip up the right side of the roof. FA. Bernard Exley, Oct 2004
2 Gen Lock ..........................2qc F6a (S0) A nice short route starting out of the water from a little underwater ledge. Make your way up to the roof and find those hidden buckets, then power to the top. FA. Daimon Beail, Oct 2004
APPROACH
Exit: under the start of Route 1. CONDITIONS - Big holds but a little greasy in places when humid.
4 Coldron ..................................qc F5 (S0) Start slightly right of I Tell Thee and make a direct ascent of the wall to the same exit. FA. James Cole, Oct 2004
5 Frogger ...............................qc F4+ (S1) Start from the same ledge as Coldron, traverse rightwards to the arete and then climb to the top from there. Watch out for the little ledge below. FA. Heidi Spets, Oct 2004
6 C++ .......................................qc Start as for Frogger but then climb the faint arete.
F4+ (S0)
FA. Peter Brown, Oct 2004
3 I Tell Thee...............................qc F4+ (S0) Start as for Gen Lock and then make a rising traverse right to the obvious exit. FA. Daimon Beail, Oct 2004
Although a wonderful place to be, the deep water soloing is limited, however the small number of routes are great fun, especially the cave route Super Sonic. When climbing at Cala Santanyi there are one or two things to look out for: 1) Some holds are a bit frail in places although this can add to the fun as the routes are not that high. 2) Be careful in the Cove Area as the water is a bit shallow towards the back. 3) The bay can be hit by freak waves at times, which makes the climbing a bit more interesting. 4) A boat is useful as the Super Sonic Area is on the other side of the bay, but you could always just swim over to it if you are a strong swimmer.
5 2
SANTANYI
7 Little Fish..............................qc F5+ (S2) Start as for Frogger and make your way along the cliff until you reach the sandy arete which you finish up. Half way through the traverse you will reach a little cave where the climbing is above a ledge, so take care! FA. Heidi Spets, Oct 2004
Cala Santanyi From Santanyi, follow signs for Cala Santanyi out of the village. Take the second turning signed to Cala Santanyi off this road (ignore the first turning). Then take the first left turn and then the first right turn (signed 'HR Palmaria'). Continue along this road, past a roundabout with a tree and park by the barrier across the private road leading to a tower. LEAVE NOTHING VALUABLE IN THE CAR. From here walk towards the tower and turn right at the end. Follow the path and descend and to the platform below. When you reach the sea turn right and walk along the mini cliff until you get to The Cove. Es Pontas Follow signs all the way to Cala Santanyi and when you reach the bottom of the steep hill you will find signs to Es Pontas. Follow the road back up the bay, past the car park, and turn left up the steep hill. Once at the top of the hill, turn left to take the coastal road and keep a sharp eye out for the Es Pontas signs. If you are lucky you will find yourself eventually reaching a dead end. Park around here but do not block the entrance to the wooded area that leads to the cliff edge. Follow the well-trodden path all the way through the wood until you reach the cliff edge. PMV401-2 Alqueria Blanca C714 C717
C717
C717
SANTANYI PM610 Llombards
Cala Llombards
"The large cave" Photo by Daimon Beail
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Porto Petro
Cala Santanyi
610-2 Cala Santanyi
"The virgin area" Photo by Daimon Beail
610-2 Cala d'Or
Cala Figuerai Es Pontas
Crags Map not to scale
Map not to scale
Crags
SANTANYI - Cala Santanyi
Port De Soller's DWS crag is a quiet little gem which is difficult to get to hence it is hidden away from the crowds. It's bigger than it looks from the beach but there is nothing higher than 10 metres except at the end, where the crag rises to around fifteen metres. This crag is best visited if you happen to be staying in the area. Don't go out of your way especially if you're enjoying the delights of the east coast. There is a lot more to do here but nothing amazing except for the far right-hand side of the crag where it is at its highest.
2
1
The entire crag is undercut and in most places the sea floor is way under you. On the other side of the bay there is a fantastic looking cave with a lighthouse on top. Unfortunately this is military owned and it is strongly recommended you stay well clear of it.
Platform
Exit Point
SUPER SONIC AREA
3
4
5
6
THE COVE
SOLLER
APPROACH
ES PONTAS
AOPU
BO AT 4 min ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 1 & 2 are reached by swimming across to the Platform. Routes 3 to 5 swim accross to the slightly submerged platform and traverse right from here. Route 6 is gained by climbing down from base camp and into the cove.
61 Super Sonic .....................3fpqc 7a (S0) Traverse left from the platform into the little cave. Climb out across the lip of the cave on good holds until almost half way. Climb diagonally up from here.
From Palma take the C711 signposted to Soller. After 14 kilometres you will come to a tunnel. You can either pay to nip through the tunnel or save money and drive over the top, but you will probably spend the same on petrol as you would on the toll. When you reach the other side, keep going all the way until you reach a roundabout. Don't turn off into Soller, instead keep going and follow signs to “Port de Soller”. Follow this road until you arrive in the port. Parking is best found around the back streets. From the left-hand side of the bay, make your way along the water's edge until it gets rocky. There is a path that follows a disused pipe, which is covered in concrete. Follow this down the coast as far as you can onto the rocky beach. There is a large dusty rock pillar which prevents you from continuing any further without getting wet. Launch your dingy from here and paddle across to the crag, or swim.
CONDITIONS The main crag faces east so it generally gets the morning to early afternoon sun.
FA. D.Beail 3.10.03
2
Bird Watching ..............................qc 6b (S0)
We are not talking about ones with wings. From the platform climb the flake and then traverse the break-line to the other platform. FA. Julian Chapman 3.10.03
Super Sonic Area POLLENCA
3 Naked Germans ......................1qc 4+ (S0) This is also a good descent route.
Sa Calobra
The Cove
4
Port de Soller
Wave Machine .........................1qc 5+ (S0)
LH
Landing Platform
Sport Crag C710
FA. Julian Chapman 3.10.03
SOLLER TUNN EL
Cala Santanyi
FA. S.Smith 3.10.03
Crag
A DE TAN RA UN R M SE RA T
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Sa Pobla Selva C713
PM210
Alaro
INCA
PM211 C713 PM210
Page 22
PM213
1090m
C711
Map not to scale
Port de Soller
1348m
C710
Vino Master ..................................qc 6a (S0)
6 Mr Smith ....................................1qc 6a (S1) It gets a bit shallow towards the back of the cave which is where you will finish this one.
PM220
OD
1102m
FA. D.Beail 3.10.03
5
C710
Crag
FA. D.Beail 3.10.03
M
LH
PM344 PM324
PM27
PM312
Map not to scale
Map not to scale
SOLLER - Port De Soller - Left
SOLLER - Port De Soller - Right
3 2 10
Landing Platform
4
7 5
1
8
9
6
AOIW
ACCESS / APPROACH - Routes 4 to 11 are reached by either
61 Aqua Phobia.........................3fqc 6c (S0) Excellent traverse done from right to left. The clue is make your way under the shelf then up and left, using a big thread. This is the start to route 2 as well. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
BO AT
AOIW
15 min Routes 1 and 2 start from the platform. Be slightly careful getting onto the start of them as there are one or two ledges sticking out and the odd greasy hold. Descend by clambering over the top and back to the landing platform or jump off into the sea.
2 Little Blue...........................1fqc 6b+ (S0) Start as for Aqua Phobia then make your way up the arete on jugs. It gets F6b+ for the start, the rest is probably F5.
8 The Ease Of Passage.............qc The easy way up, or down. 4 A Passage To The New......qc 6a+ (S1) Follow the ramp line to the roof and climb the right-hand side to the top. 5 Pots.............................................qc 6b (S0) Follow the crack line under the ramp to the roof and finish as for A Passage To The New.
3 It Tastes Like The Sea.........fdqc 7b (S2) The blank arete right of Little Blue.
FA. S.Smith 28.09.03
FA. S.Smith 28.09.03
6 Squid.................................2fqc 6b (S0) Traverse right low down from the left side of the face until you reach a flake. Climb this and finish as for A PTT New. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
10
12
61 Landin
5 g Plat
form
7 Dim Dim.............................2fqc 5 (S0) There is a wall right of the face, climb the part that bulges slightly over the water and veer left at the top.
11
BO AT 4min20 min
traversing "Little Princess" from the platform or walking slightly above the crag through all those nasty bushes. Alternatively you could just use a dingy as it is quite easy to get on to land around this area.
FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
8
Port de Soller
Page 25
3 (S3)
FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
9 Deep Sea Climbing...............qc 5+ (S1) There are plenty of little lines but the route up the stuck-on flake is the nicest. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
10 It Could Go On........................qc 6a This wall is big, and this route travels diagonally left, on fantastic holds, starting at the base of the big easy flake. Carry on until you reach the massive hole.
(S0)
FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
11 Big Easy Climb it.
Flake.........................qc 4 (S1)
FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
12 Little Princess.......................qc 6b+ (S0) The mighty traverse from the landing platform takes you to the far end of the crag. If done low down it provides some interesting climbing. Finish up Big Easy Flake. The hard bits can normally be bypassed higher up. FA. D.Beail 28.09.03
Map not to scale Page 24
11
SA CALOBRA
SA CALOBRA
Torrent-De-Pareis
A P U
Sa Calobra is a beautiful spot that can get very busy with tourists, which means your climbing activity will cause rounds of applause every now and then. It's a more relaxed venue compared to Porto Cristo with routes never exceeding fifteen metres. The climbing is found at the mouth of the “Torrent-De-Pareis”, which in the winter months has been known on the odd occasion, after heavy rain, to become the mouth of a fast flowing river. This is very rare, but the evidence of the river meeting the sea, is presented in the form of a pebble-mounded beach, that slopes sharply into the sea.
10min
BO AT
The climbing is currently limited but there are many more possibilities out there. A boat is recommended, as some of the routes are difficult to pull onto from the sea. If you decide to visit “Tufa Land” take a backup flotation device, because if your boat bursts you're going to have a long swim back.
APPROACH Sa Calobra is on the north side of the island and the easiest way to get there is to make your way to Soller and take the C710 towards Pollenca. This road winds its way up into the mountains passing through many a tunnel and past the odd military outpost. After this longer-than-expected drive you eventually get to a major turning on the left which rollercoasters its way down to Cala Tuent and Sa Calobra. Sa Calobra can also be approached from the other direction, direct from Pollenca or from Inca. Following signs to Sa Calobra you will eventually will come to a pay and display car park on your right near the bottom of the valley. From here walk down to the sea front and turn right. Follow the path along the front until you eventually come to a series of small well-lit tunnels. Try to squeeze your way through them past the forty one thousand tourists to emerge at the other side. Observe the view.
CONDITIONS The biggest problem on this side of the island is rain. Because Sa Calobra is on the edge of the mountain range it tends to get dumped on (with rain) from time to time. This is obviously less of a problem in June but in mid October you will find an umbrella quite useful. The cove faces north west and because of the steepness of the surrounding cliffs / mountains the sun normally shines from about midday to early afternoon. Torrent-De-Pareis
Crag POLLENCA
Map not to scale
PM220 1102m
1348m
A DE AN A NT RR U SE RAM T C710
C710
TUNN
PM213
1090m
EL
SOLLER
Sa Pobla Selva
Alaro
C713 PM210
ROUTES: - Routes 1 and 2 are more boulder problems than routes and routes 3 and 4 are simple, but fun traverses.
THE MOUTH
61 Sa Pose ........................2fqc 6b+ (S0) A powerful little traverse. Follow the faint crack which leaves the massive flake on positive holds. Follow this to big side pulls and power upwards to a ledge. Work your way down the ledge to the start and do it again for the tourists who didn’t spot you the first time. FA. D.Beail 30.09.03
4 The Mad Professor.......2qc 6c+ (S0) From the start of Little Professer head right on some fantastic rock to a tricky hand rail and a slap for a large bucket. Continue as far as you can and bale out just before the water gets shallow. FA. D.Beail 17.06.05
2 Water Logged ....................pqc 6a (S0) Pull out of the water and follow the big flake up and right. At the top of the flake, climb up to the sloping ledge, and jump off!!
TU
FA
Torrent-De-Pareis 3 SW
IM
PM27
PM312
et c
4 6
61
TUNNEL TU
NN
PM344 PM324
LA ND
P
INCA
PM211
C711
2
ACCESS / APPROACH - Route 1 is reached by either swimming from the beach and pulling up onto the steps using a rope, or walking round to the no entry sign on the tunnel path and crossing a weak railing. Route 2 is a swim from the beach as are routes 3 and 4.
FA. D.Beail, S.Smith, J.Chapman 30.09.03
C713
PM210
Exit Point
3 The Little Professor ..........1qc 5+ (S0) Nothing little about it. Normally done from right to left. Pull yourself out of the water or off your boat and traverse at any height, making it whatever grade you like. 5+ is an average grade. There are also some deep sea boulder problems along the way. It’s a good way to make your way to Tufa Land if you don’t have a boat.
C710
Port de Soller
TUFA LAND
FA. Julian Chapman 30.09.03
Sa Calobra
Sa Calobra
P
1
Map not to scale
Map not to scale
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EL
SA CALOBRA
Torrent-De-Pareis
A P T 8 min
J
OTHER AREAS Exploration on the island is ongoing with some areas having been developed but not documented - like Cala Sa Nau - and other areas having yet to be fully explored. There are also probably many excellent areas which haven't even been discovered yet. Until more information is unearthed, here are a few venues that are worth investigating. Watch www.DWSWORLD.com for updates on these venues!!
J
Cala Mitjana
5
Cala Varquer THE ARENA
FA. D.Beail 17.06.05
6 WAX.........................3tfqc F7a+ (S0) A stunning find. Still awaiting a direct finish past the large pocket. Traverse the hand-rail until you reach the arete. Climb the right-hand side of it making some sequency moves to a jug. Continue to wind your way up the face to the pockets out left. Jump from here or try the direct finish into the recess.
25min
Character and Approach: Further south west down the coast from Cala sa Nau is Cala Mitjana. A fantastic cliff of good height offering steep and often hard climbs. It is only a 15 min walk from the Cala Sa Nau crag and is easily recognisable from the ship-like mast which is situated on top of the crag.
6
5 The Fulcher................2pqc F6b+ (S0) A fantastic line that finishes with a long jump back down to earth. Traverse the hand-rail along and down past the arete of WAX until you reach a crouching position under a crack-line. Follow this all the way until you reach a recess and an obvious finish to the route. Jump off from here.
FEOP
ACCESS / APPROACH - The Arena is the first area you reach just before entering the tunnels. The crag is overlooked by a viewing area which obviously means your climbing will gain a large amount of interest from tourists. You can set up camp on a rocky platform just over the left side of the railing and descend to the climbs from here. Exit: In calm seas exiting is extremely easy as there is an underwater ledge at the bottom of the natural descent line into the sea. In slightly rougher conditions a rope would be useful as it is a lot trickier to get out. Also climb with care at the bottom as it is normally quite slippery and wet.
GEP
15min Character: This is where many of the DWS masters have been hanging out for the past few years. Cala Varquer is home to some of Mallorca's most beautiful caves, coves and grottos. At the heart of it all is a beautiful golden beach. There's lots of routes to do and pretty much all the lines have been done. The information will be released soon online and in an up and coming guide by Mike Robertson.
MAP
FA. J.Cole 17.06.05
'James Cole' soloing WAX 7a+ (S0). Photo by Daimon Beail
Page 28
Approach: From Porto Cristo follow the the PMV401-4 towards Porto Colom. After some way you reach a turning on the left to Cala Romantica. Keep going until the road turns sharply to the right and then back left. Shortly after that point there is a dirt road on your left. Follow this dirt track to the end to a chained iron gate. Squeeze through and follow the path through the farmland and wooded section to eventually come out at the beach. Following the lefthand side will shortly bring you to an amazing stalactite area and quite a deep cave. Carrying on along the cliff edge will take you to the next area which is a set of fantastic little caves and a golden grotto. Enjoy! Page 29
