Diseño de modas: Conceptos básicos - libro de Larissa Lando

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Glpyrnbft ©:99> Okrnssk Okd`l Koo rnbfts rhshrvh`. www.gjfjllms.gla Akdkbndb H`ntlr3 Akduho Kohaëd H`ntlrs3 Hsthok Whrkendn kd` Erkdgnsgl Ehrdëd`hz @hsnbdhr3 Zngkr`l Ylths Glrrhk Glvhr nakbh3 © Hodur | @rhkastnah.gla Yujonsfh` nd tfh Xdnth` Wtkths jy GJF Jllms. GJF Jllms ns k `nvnsnld le Gkajrn`bh JrngmFlush, Ndg. Gkajrn`bh JrngmFlush, Ndg. 59 Nsokd` Wtrhht Okwrhdgh, AK 9;609 X.W.K. Dl pkrt le tfns jllm aky jh rhprlùgh` lr utnonzh` nd kdy elra lr jy kdy ahkds, hohgtrldng lr ahgfkdngko, ndgou`ndb pfltlglpyndb, rhglr`ndb, lr jy kdy ndelraktnld stlrkbh kd` rhtrnhvko systha wntflut phranssnld nd wrntndb erla tfh pujonsfhr. Onjrkry le Gldbrhss Gldtrlo Duajhr3 :99>>:059: NWJD >26-;-8>678-9>6-: Zhbnstrk`l hd ok Lengndk Dkgnldko `h @hrhgfl `h Kutlr, Whgrhtkrák `h Hstk`l `h ok











@h`ngktLrnk

K Gktfhrndh, an quhrn`k fnck, glapkûhrk ndgld`ngnldko `h tl`ls ans prlyhgtls











Ád`ngh Ndtrlùggn÷d

;;

Yr÷olbl

;7

Gkpátuol N Ok al`k

;8

Grhkgn÷d `h ok al`k Kgtntu` erhdth k ok al`k Ksphgtls slgnkohs `h ok al`k Whdsukon`k` k trkvîs `ho vhstukrnl Ok al`k y ok hxprhsn÷d hstîtngk Ok nakbhd k trkvîs `ho vhstukrnl Ok al`k y ok h`k` Ok boljkonzkgn÷d `h ok al`k Ok al`k y ok thgdlolbák Napkgtl hd ok hgldlaák

Gkpátuol NN Ho `nshûk`lr

;5 ;6 ;> :9 :: :: :0 :5 :2 :6

7;











Ok îplgk `lrk`k3 Gfrnstnkd @nlr Ho `hstkph `h ols shthdtk3 Ok andneko`k Ok kdtnal`k `h ols shthdtk Ho dhljkrrlgl `h ols lgfhdtk3 Bnkddn Uhrskgh Ho hstnol gksuko `h ols dlvhdtk3 Bnlrbnl Krakdn Oks thd`hdgnks kgtukohs

Gkpátuol NNN Goksnengkgn÷d `h ok al`k Ols ndngnls `h ok kotk glsturk Hstrugturk haprhskrnko Elraks `h gldehggn÷d Glsturk pkrk ok goksh ah`nk Grhkgn÷d `ho prãt-é-plr `ho prãt-é-plrthr thr Hvlougn÷d `ho prãt-é-plrt `ho prãt-é-plrthr hr Zlpk pkrk ok goksh plpuokr Ok prlùggn÷d ‟hd oádhk‑ Hvlougn÷d `h ok rlpk pkrk ok goksh plpuokr Al`k vkdbukr`nstk y jkrrnko

Gkpátuol NU Ho hstnol Altnvkgnldhs ploátngks y slgnkohs Hstnonzkgnldhss elogo÷rngks y îtdngks Hstnonzkgnldh Grhkgn÷d `h hstnonzkgn hstnonzkgnldhs ldhs Kgtukonzkgn÷d Hstnol shdtn`l `ho bîdhrl

72 76 76 7> 09 0;

07 07 00 08 06 06 0> 8; 8: 88 59

52 56 5> 29 2; 27











Ho hqunonjrnl y ho jkokdgh Ho îdeksns y ho rntal Oks oádhks `h guhrpl y `h snouhtk Oks oádhks `h `htkoohs y hstrugturko hstrugturkohs hs Goksnengkgn÷d `h oks oádhks Oks oádhks flrnzldtkoh flrnzldtkohss Oks oádhks vhrtngkohs Oks oádhks `nkbldkohs y gurvks

Gkpátuol UN Ho glolr Dkturkohzk eásngk eásngk `ho glolr Goksnengkgn÷d `h ols glolrhs Gukon`k`hs `ho glolr Bkak `h glolrhs Ok ohy `h gldtrksth snauotëdhl Glajndkgnldhss `h glolrhs3 Glajndkgnldh aldlgrlaëtngk, aldlgrlaëtn gk, kdëolbk y gldtrksth Hehgtls ÷ptngls Hehgtls psnglo÷bngls

Gkpátuol UNN Ols thcn`ls Phcn`ls rábn`ls Phcn`ls eohxnjohs Hehgtls ÷ptngls Phcn`ls dkturkohs

6> >9 >: >0 >5 >2 >2 >6

;9; ;9; ;9: ;90 ;95 ;96 ;96 ;;: ;;7

;;2 ;;6 ;;> ;:9 ;:;













Gkpátuol UNNN Ho vhstukrnl `h `ák Ok oádhk ‟`hplrth‑ Ho udnelrah Ok oádhk chkds oádhk chkds Ok rlpk `h ok tkr`h

Gkpátuol NV Ho vhstukrnl `h dlgfh Ok rlpk `h g÷gtho Ho phquhûl vhstn`l dhbrl Ho vhstn`l `h bkok Zhgursls `ho `nshûl `h bkok Ho vhstn`l `h jl`ks

Gkpátuol V Ho vhstukrnl `h flajrh Kdthgh`hdths Duhvks thd`hdgnks thd`hdgnks

;77 ;77 ;75 ;7> ;0;

;08 ;05 ;06 ;0> ;8; ;85

;8> ;59 ;58











@nshûl `h al`ks

Ndtrlùggn÷d Xdl `h ols brkd`hs akohs quh tnhdh ho `hskrrlool `h ok al`k hs quh tl`l sh fk oohvk`l k gkjl sljrh ok akrgfk, snd `hckr ndelrakgn÷d thstnaldnko `h ol vnvn`l, gldelraëd`ldls gld ok purk rhehrhdgnk fnst÷rngk `h ols fhgfls, lgurrnhd`l hstl hsphgnkoahdth hd îplgks pksk`ks, hd ho ndngnl `h duhstrk hvlougn÷d glal dkgn÷d. Ylr hstl ah pkrhgn÷ ndthrhskdth hsth prlyhgtl jnjonlbrëeng jnjonlbrëengl l `h ok prlehslrk Okrnssk Okd`l, hd qunhd, kudquh dl gldlzgl prleud`kahdth, `hdltl hd su phrsldkon`k` ok dljoh ndthdgn÷d y ho ndthrîs eud`kahdtko `h kplrtkr `hs`h su hxphrnhdgnk glal ndvhstnbk`lrk y akhstrk, tl`l ol vnvn`l hd ho pokdl `lghdth, `ld`h rk`ngk ho `hsha phûl `ho akylr tnhapl `hdtrl `h ol quh hs su vn`k prlehsnldk prlehsnldko, o, glal











Okrnssk Okd`l ahclr ols pokdthkanhdtls hsphgáengls y ols plrquîs `h hsth lengnl, quh gk`k `ák sh tlrdk aës glaphtntnvl hd tl`l ho aud`l. Fly hd `ák ud `nshûk`lr `h al`ks hxntlsl hs trktk`l glal tl`k udk ghohjrn`k`. Yuh`l nakbndkr quh hstk ljrk tnhdh hdtldghs ho prndgnpnl hshdgnko pkrk gldvhrtnrsh hd ud `lguahdtl rhehrhdgnko y bhdhrkonzk`l `h ok thrandlolbák y oks rhboks jësngks, glal fhrrkanhdtks `h `hskrrlool `ho hstu`nkdth, `ho euturl `nshûk`lr, `ho prlehsnldko yk elrak`l l snapohahdth `ho ohgtlr. Ok al`k kpksnldk y shùgh k tl`ls gld su hsphgnko hdgkd tl= ndtrnbk k ols dh÷entls, sujyubk k sus k`hptls y kudquh shk plr gurnlsn`k`, prlvlgk snhaprh ho ndthrîs `h udk u ltrk elrak, hd tl`l tnpl `h ohgtlr. @hsgujrkals sus prndgnpnls hd hstks pëbndks, vkals k hdthrkrdls ud plgl aës `h ok trkyhgtlrnk `h kobudls ekalsls hstkjohgn`ls, y `h ud quh ltrl shgrhtl akhstrl pkrk kogkdzkr ho îxntl k trkvîs `ho gldlgnanhdtl quh prlpngnk ok ohgturk `h ud juhd thxtl k tl`l ohgtlr ohgt lr.. Zhgnjkals gld jhdhpoëgntl hstk ndngnktnvk `h ok prhstnbnlsk gksk h`ntlrk Gkajrn`bh JrngmFlush `h Jlstld (Aksskgfushtts) ko kplykr ok okjlr `h ok prlehslrk Okrnssk Okd`l, y `hckr ksá, glal











@nshûl `h al`ks

Gkpátuol N

Ok al`k Al`k, hd shdtn`l bhdhrko, hs ud gldghptl kpongkjoh k `nehrhdths ehd÷ahdls `h ok kgtnvn`k` fuakdk, quh rheohckd gkajnls gldstkdths hd gukdtl k grnthrnls. Ho tîrandl ‟al`k‑ prlgh`h `h alùs alùs quh, hd oktád, snbdnengk ‟hohggn÷d‑ y sh rhenhrh k oks glstuajrhs, ho al`l `h prlgh`hr y ok elrak `h vhstnr y phndkrsh prlpnks `h gk`k htkpk `h ok fuakdn`k`. Hd ho gksl `ho vhstukrnl, al`k snbdnengk ok elrak pkrtnguokr `h vhstnrsh hd gk`k thaplrk`k. Ok al`k akdtnhdh k ok auchr











Okrnssk Okd`l Wnd hajkrbl, ho `hskrrlool `h ok slgnh`k` hd oks îplgks plsthrnlrhs phrantn÷ oohbkr, pkrk ok shbud`k antk` `ho snbol VU, k gnhrtl jnhdhstkr hgld÷angl. hgld÷angl. Ols ndvhstnbk`lrhs gldsn`hrkd quh hd hsh phrál`l sh `nl ndngnl k ok al`k glal tko. Kobudls ol ktrnjuyhd ko B÷tngl erkdgîs, anhdtrks quh ltrls ltlrbkd hsth aîrntl ko Zhdkgnanhdtl ntkonkdl. @h gukoqunhr al`l, kajls alvnanhdtls gksn glndgn`hd hd tîrandls `h tnhapl y hvn`hdgnkd gnhrtk akùrhz `h ok slgnh`k`. Ok vhstnahdtk sh vuhovh aës hohbkdth= ho glrth y ok gldehggn÷d, aës slenstngk`ls, slenstngk`l s, y ols gkajnls hd ho ksphgtl `h oks prhd`ks hapnhzkd k hehgtukrsh snsthaëtngkahdth snsthaëtngkahdth y augfl aës k ahdu`l. K phskr `h quh ho ehd÷ahdl `h ok al`k yk hxnsták gld kdthrnlrn`k`, ho tîrandl kpkrhgh plr prnahrk vhz hd ho snbol VUNN, hd ok glrth erkdghsk. Hd hsk îplgk, vhstn`l é ok al`h supldák al`h supldák ‟ko hstnol erkdgîs‑, `nehrhdth `ho hspkûlo quh yk gh`ák su prnakgák.

Grhkgn÷d `h ok al`k













@nshûl `h al`ks Hd prndgnpnl, ok aksk plpuokr snbuh ok al`k, phrl ouhbl hapnhzk k phr`hr ndthrîs. Oks vhdtks jkckd. Oks tnhd`ks rhgurrhd k oks rhjkcks pkrk pk rk hv hvnt ntkr kr ok kg kgua uauo uokg kgn÷ n÷d d `h ah ahrg rgkd kdgá gák. k. Ho gn gngo gol l hs hstë të th thra rand ndk` k`l. l. Hdtldghs vnhdh udk duhvk lehrtk `h kobudk al`k aës kgtukonzk`kk y lrnbndko. Xd duhvl gngol hapnhzk. kgtukonzk` Ok grhkgn÷d `h ok al`k hd duhstrk îplgk guhdtk gld ok ndtungn÷d `h ols brkd`hs al`nstls phrl, ko ansal tnhapl, rhplsk sljrh ols hstu`nls hd ok akthrnk. Wh tlakd hd gldsn`hrkgn÷d ols ekgtlrhs slgnkohs, hgld÷angls y fkstk ploátngls. Ols `nshûk`lrhs prlgurkd rherhsgkr snsthaëtngkahdth ok bkak `h ols glolrhs pkrk dl rh phtnr ols ansals aktnghs, ko nbuko quh oks oádhks y ols `htkoohs `h oks prhd`ks. Ols grhk`lrhs `h ok al`k vnvhd ndvhstnbkd`l sljrh duhvls akthrnkohs y tîgdngks `h gldehggn÷d.











Okrnssk Okd`l Ok al`k tnhdh `ls vhrtnhdths hd su elrakgn÷d3 Ok aës trk`ngnldko hs `h krrnjk krrn jk fkgnk kjkcl= hs `hgnr, ok nantkgn÷d `h ok al`k `h ok goksh kotk plr ols dnvhohs slgnkohs aës jkcls. Ok ltrk sh ljshrvk hd ho `hdlandk`l ‟hehgtl `h jurjuck‑, hs `hgnr, quh sujk `h kjkcl, gukd`l ok al`k `h udls brupls bru pls akrbndkohs sh ndshrtk hd ols aës kotls dnvhohs, kplyk`k plr kobód al`nstl `h rhdlajrh quh ok gldsn`hrh lrnbndko.

Kgtntu` erhdth k ok al`k

@hs`h ho pudtl `h vnstk psnglo÷bngl, gld rhsphgtl k ok kgtntu` erhdth k ok al`k, oks phrsldks sh goksnengkd hd vkrnls brupls3











@nshûl `h al`ks glrrhspld`h ko brupl `h ols goësngls y, hd lgksnldhs, fkstk k ols kdtnguk`ls, gukd`l hstëd kphbk`ls ko vhstnr `ho pksk`l plr kobudk rkz÷d pkrtnguokr. Ho brupl `h ols kdtnguk`ls sh glapldh akylrahdth `h bhdth quh suern÷ ud `hthrnlrl hd su sntukgn÷d hgld÷angk l jnhd `h oks phrsldks auy ndtrlvhrtn`ks, kobl `hsgldhgtk`ks `ho aud`l hxthrnlr.

Ksphgtls slgnkohs `h ok al`k

Ho vhstukrnl glal tko dls prlthbh gldtrk oks ndgohahdgnks `h ok dkturkohzk y `henhd`h ok prnvkgn`k` `h duhstrl guhrpl. Ok al`k hs augfl aës quh hstl3 guapoh naplrtkdths eudgnldhs hd duhstrks











Okrnssk Okd`l ols pkrtn`krnls `h ok aldkrquák, ols rhpujongkdls y ols anontkdths `h ok bukr`nk `ho puhjol, tl`ls hrkd n`hdtnengk`ls gld gnhrtk rlpk. Aës k`hokdth, hd `nehrhdths htkpks fnst÷rngks, oks phrsldks snhaprh hdgldtrkrld ok elrak `h akdnehstkr su kplyl l rhgfkzl ploátngl gld kobód `htkooh snbdnengktnv snbdnengktnvl. l. Hd duhstrl tnhapl, ok nakbhd `ho Gfh Buhvkrk, hstkapk`k hd ok gkanshtk, algfnok l blrrk `h ud clvhd, auhstrk su thd`hdgnk nzqunhr`nstk. Ylr ltrk pkrth, ok bhdth utnonzk ok nakbhd `h su gkd`n`ktl hd oks gkapkûks `h hohggnldhs `h oks kutlrn`k`hs.

Whdsukon`k` k trkvîs `ho vhstukrnl











@nshûl `h al`ks Ho grnthrnl `h jhoohzk hs jkstkdth vloujoh y hstë suchtl k ekgtlrhs glal ho pkpho `h ok auchr hd ok slgnh`k`, ols alvnanhdtls guoturkohs y krtástngls y oks gld`ngnldhs hgld÷angks, hdtrh ltrls. Ok al`k, snrvnîd`lsh `h ols rhgursls `h ok glsturk, plshh udk slrprhd`hdth gkpkgn`k` `h al`nengkr ho guhrpl `h kguhr`l gld ols gkajnls `h ols grnthrnls hstîtngls. Hd ok Brhgnk kdtnbuk, ok enburk ehahdndk phrehgtk euh hqunonjrk`k, `h gurvks sukvhs y gkrdhs enrahs. Oks oádhks `h oks vhstnahdtks sh glapldákd `h vhrtngkohs rhphtn`ks y kobudks flrnzldtkohs quh `nvn`ákd ho guhrpl hd `ls jolquhs. Oks auchrhs brnhbks grhkrld ho prnahr suchtk`lr, hd elrak `h udk tnrk `h thok quh `kjk enrahzk ko justl. Augfls snbols `hspuîs, hd ok îplgk `ho rlglg÷, ok enburk eh-













Okrnssk Okd`l kdths, sh gldvnrtnhrld hd oks prltkbldnstks `h ok al`k. Ho justl y ok gk`hrk, plgl `hskrrlook`ls ko hstnol `h udk k`lohsghdth, sh `nsnauokrld y phr`nhrld naplrtkdgnk. Hd oks `îgk`ks plsthrnlrhs sh hstkjohgn÷ ud tnpl `h enburk `hplrtnvk, hsjhotk, gld oks gurvks auy al`hrk`ks. Wnd hajkrbl, ok auchr alstr÷ su shdsukon`k` aës erkdgkahdth, vkonîd`lsh `h duhvls thcn`ls auy rhvhok`lrhs y sh`lsls, hsglths augfl aës prleud`ls y kphrturks prlvlgktnvks prlvlgktnvks y vloudtkrnks.











@nshûl `h al`ks Xdk auchr glquhtk vnsth rlpk shxy shxy,, kobl prlvlgktnvk, jusgkd`l ktrkhr ok kthdgn÷d y hxpldnhd` hxpldnhd`l l oks vhdtkcks `h su enburk. Wu kpkrnhdgnk akd`k a kd`k ho ahdskch `h quh hook hs udk phrsldk glaudngktnvk y dl `hsgkrtk ud plsnjoh rlakdgh. Xdk auchr ndtrlvhrtn`k y táan`k dl sh ktrhvh k uskr udk prhd`k `h hstk ád`loh. Hook prhenhrh pkskr ndk`vhrtn`k ndk`vhrtn`k,, lguotëd`lsh hd vhstn`ls shdgnools y glaudhs.











Okrnssk Okd`l

Ok al`k y ok h`k`

Hd oks óotnaks trhs `îgk`ks ookak ok kthdgn÷d ok ndthbrkgn÷d augfl aës kgtnvk `h ok pljokgn÷d `h tl`ks oks h`k`hs ko ëajntl `h ok al`k. Ok rhguphrkgn÷d plsjîongk, ho prlbrhsl thgdlo÷bngl thgd lo÷bngl y oks duhvks elraks `h gldehggn÷d `h ok rlpk, jhdhengnkrld k augfks phrsldks.











@nshûl `h al`ks Pl`ks oks h`k`hs sld juhdks pkrk vhstnrsh `h akdhrk hohbkdth y gk`k htkpk tnhdh sus vhdtkcks, snhaprh y gukd`l ok phrsldk shpk kprlvhgfkroks. Yhrl, kudquh ok al`k gkajnk gk`k thaplrk`k, kobudks rhglahd`kgnldhs sld vëon`ks pkrk gukoqunhr îplgk. Ok rlpk `h ols dnûls `hjh shr, hd prnahr tîrandl, g÷al`k `h uskr. Ols bîdhrls quh aës ols ekvlrhghd sld ho `hplrtnvl `hplrt nvl y ho gksuko. Ho `nshûl shdgnool y ols glolrhs vnvls y kohbrhs hxprhskd ok ndlghd-











Okrnssk Okd`l Oks vhdtkcks quh tnhdh ok auchr gld ho pksl `h ols kûls rhsn`hd hd ok hxphrnhdgnk `ho `neágno krth `h vhstnr y ho prnvnohbnl `h uskr prhd`ks aës slenstngk`ks. Wh `ngh quh udk auchr hdguhdtrk su prlpnl hstnol `hspuîs `h ols trhndtk kûls. H d ok onstk kduko `h oks `kaks ahclr vhstn`ks `ho aud`l, hdgldtrkals quh udk juhdk pkrth hstë gldstntun`k plr ekalsks y hohbkdths gndguhdtldks.













@nshûl `h al`ks naprhsnldkdths glohggnldhs, k`kptk`ks ouhbl plr ndùstrnks `h gldehggn÷d k dnvho aud`nko.











Okrnssk Okd`l

Napkgtl hd ok hgldlaák











@nshûl `h al`ks Yhrl ok ljshsn÷d plr ok phrehggn÷d hd ho krth `h vhstnr tnhdh ltrls oáanths, y dl sld prhgnskahdth k`qunsntnvls.











Okrnssk Okd`l • Ahdgnldk ols ekgtlrhs thgdlo÷bngls, quh sld ok akqundkrnk y ols thcn`ls. Ho `nshûk`lr `hphd`h `ho dnvho thgdlo÷bngl `ho











Diseño de modas: Conceptos básicos - libro de Larissa Lando

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