Croatia Travel Guide.pdf

Contents 1 Cr Croa oati tiaa

1

1.11 Re 1. Regi gion onss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

1.22 Ci 1. Citi ties es . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

1.3 Othe Otherr des destina tination tionss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

1.4 Un Unde derst rstand and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

1.4. 1. 4.11

Clim Cl imat atee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

1.4. 1. 4.22

Terr Te rrai ainn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

1.4. 1. 4.33

Hist Hi stor oryy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

1.4.4 1.4 .4

Holid Hol iday ayss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

1.55 Ge 1. Gett in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

1.5.1

Entry req requir uireme ements nts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

1.5. 1. 5.22

By pl plan anee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

1.5. 1. 5.33

By tra train in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

1.5. 1. 5.44

By ca carr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

1.5. 1. 5.55

By bu buss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

1.5. 1. 5.66

By bo boat at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

1.6 Ge Gett aro around und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

1.6. 1. 6.11

By pl plan anee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

1.6. 1. 6.22

By tra train in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

1.6. 1. 6.33

By bu buss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

1.6. 1. 6.44

By bo boat at . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

1.6. 1. 6.55

By ca carr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

1.6. 1. 6.66

By tax taxii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

1.6. 1. 6.77

By th thum umbb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

7

1.77 Tal 1. alkk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

1.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

1.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

1.9. 1. 9.11

Sail Sa ilin ingg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

1.9.2 1.9 .2

Naturi Nat urist st re resor sorts ts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

1.9.3 1.9 .3

Medic Med ical al tou touris rism m. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

8

1.9.4

Croatia Croa tia fo forr the disa disable bledd . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

1.9.5 1.9 .5

Light Li ghtho house usess . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

i

ii

CONTENTS

1.10 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

1.10.11 Mone 1.10. Moneyy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

1.10.22 ATM 1.10. ATMss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

1.10.33 Tipp 1.10. Tipping ing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

1.10.4 Tax-f Tax-free ree shopp shopping ing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

1.10.5 Natural cosmeti cosmetics cs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

9

1.10.6 Croatian clothing desi designers gners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 1.11 Eat Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 1.12 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 1.13 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 1.14 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 1.15 Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 1.15.1 Volun Volunteering teering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 1.16 Stay safe safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 1.17 Stay health healthyy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 1.18 Respec Respectt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 1.19 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 1.19.1 Tele Telephone phone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 1.19.22 Inter 1.19. Internet net . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 1.19.3 Postal service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 1.19.4 Tele Television, vision, radio and printed media media . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 2 Sa Samo mobo borr

14

2.1 Un Unde derst rstand and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.22 Ge 2. Gett in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.2. 2. 2.11

By ca carr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

2.2. 2. 2.22

By bu buss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

2.2. 2. 2.33

By tra train in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

2.3 Ge Gett aro around und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.88 Dr 2. Drin inkk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.99 Sl 2. Slee eepp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 2.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 3 Ce Centr ntral al Cro Croati atiaa

15

3.11 Ci 3. Citi ties es . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.2 Othe Otherr des destina tination tionss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.3 Un Unde derst rstand and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

iii

CONTENTS

3.44 Ge 3. Gett in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.5 Ge Gett aro around und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.99 Dr 3. Drin inkk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.10 Stay safe safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 3.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 4 Ka Karl rlov ovac ac

16


By bu buss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

4.2. 4. 2.22

By ca carr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

4.3 Ge Gett aro around und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 4.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 4.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 4.5.1 4.5 .1

Festi Fe stiva vals ls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

4.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 4.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 4.88 Dr 4. Drin inkk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 4.99 Sl 4. Slee eepp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 4.9. 4. 9.11

Budg Bu dget et . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

4.9.2 4.9 .2

Mid-r Mi d-rang angee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

4.9. 4. 9.33

Splu Sp lurg rgee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

4.10 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 5 Kr Krap apin inaa

18

5.1 Un Unde derst rstand and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 5.22 Ge 5. Gett in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 5.3 Ge Gett aro around und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 5.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 5.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 5.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 5.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 5.88 Dr 5. Drin inkk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 5.99 Sl 5. Slee eepp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 5.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 5.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 6 Krap Krapins inske ke Top Toplic licee

20

6.1 Un Unde derst rstand and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

iv

CONTENTS

6.22 Ge 6. Gett in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 6.2. 6. 2.11

By bu buss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

6.2. 6. 2.22

By ca carr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

6.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 6.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 6.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 6.66 Dr 6. Drin inkk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 6.77 Sl 6. Slee eepp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 6.7. 6. 7.11

Budg Bu dget et . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

6.7. 6. 7.22

Splu Sp lurg rgee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

6.88 Go ne 6. next xt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 7 Si Sisa sak k

22


By tra train in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

7.2. 7. 2.22

By bu buss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

7.2. 7. 2.33

By ca carr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

7.3 Ge Gett aro around und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 7.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 7.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 7.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 7.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 7.88 Dr 7. Drin inkk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 7.99 Sl 7. Slee eepp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 7.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 7.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 8 Var araž aždi dinn

26


By bu buss . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

8.2. 8. 2.22

By ca carr . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

8.2. 8. 2.33

By tra train in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

8.3 Ge Gett aro around und . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 8.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 8.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 8.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 8.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 8.88 Sl 8. Slee eepp . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 8.99 Go ne 8. next xt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

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9 Vrbovec

29

9.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.2.1

By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

9.2.2

By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

9.2.3

By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

9.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.5.1

Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

9.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.10 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 9.11 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 10 Zagreb

30

10.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 10.1.1 Tourist Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 10.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 10.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 10.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 10.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 10.2.4 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 10.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 10.3.1 Tram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 10.3.2 Bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 10.3.3 Funicular . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 10.3.4 Trains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 10.3.5 Ticketing System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 10.3.6 Zagreb Card . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 10.3.7 Bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 10.3.8 Walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 10.3.9 Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 10.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 10.4.1 Gornji Grad (Upper Town) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 10.4.2 Donji Grad (Lower Town) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 10.4.3 Northern Zagreb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 10.4.4 Novi Zagreb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 10.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 10.5.1 Cinemas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40

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10.6 Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 10.7 Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 10.8 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 10.8.1 Souvenirs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 10.8.2 Foreign books . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 10.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 10.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 10.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 10.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 10.9.4 Desserts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 10.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 10.10.1 Bars and pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 10.10.2 Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 10.11Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 10.11.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 10.11.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 10.11.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 10.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 10.12.1 Internet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 10.13Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 10.14Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 10.14.1 Reading and Speaking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 10.14.2 Visiting during summer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 10.14.3 Embassies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 10.15Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 11 Istria

49

11.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 11.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 11.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 11.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 11.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.5.2 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.5.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.5.4 By Boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.6.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 11.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 11.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

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11.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 12 Brijuni

53

12.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.10.1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.10.2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.10.3 Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 12.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 13 Fažana

54

13.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 13.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 14 Motovun

55

14.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

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14.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 14.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 14.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 15 Poreč

57

15.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 15.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 15.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 15.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 15.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 15.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 15.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 15.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 15.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 16 Pula

59

16.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 16.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 16.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 16.2.2 By land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 16.2.3 By sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 16.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 16.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 16.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 16.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 16.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 16.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 16.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 16.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 16.9.2 Unclassified . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 16.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 17 Rovinj

63

17.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 17.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 17.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 17.2.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 17.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 17.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63

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17.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 17.5.1 Rock climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 17.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 17.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 17.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 17.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 17.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 18 Umag

66

18.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 18.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 18.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 18.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 18.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 18.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 18.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 18.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.8.1 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.8.2 Resorts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.8.3 Campsites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 18.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 19 Vrsar

69

19.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 19.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69 20 Slavonia

70

20.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 20.2 Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 20.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

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20.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 20.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 20.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 20.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 20.7.1 Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 20.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 20.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 20.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 20.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 20.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 21 Đakovo

72

21.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 21.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 22 Liberland

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22.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.2.6 By LSA assistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 22.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.11Learn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.12Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74

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22.13Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.14Stay healthy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.15Respect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 22.16Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 23 Osijek

75

23.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 23.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 23.2.1 By rail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 23.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 23.2.3 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 23.2.4 By road . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 23.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 23.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 23.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 23.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 23.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 23.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 23.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 23.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 24 Šidski Banovci

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24.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 24.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 24.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 24.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 24.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 24.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 24.7 Eat

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81

24.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 24.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 24.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 24.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 25 Slavonski Brod

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25.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.1.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.1.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.1.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.1.4 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.1.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82

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25.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 25.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 25.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 25.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 25.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 25.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 26 Vukovar

84

26.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 26.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 26.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 26.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 26.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 26.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 26.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 26.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 26.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 26.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 27 Dalmatia

86

27.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 27.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 27.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 27.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 27.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 27.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 27.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 27.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 27.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 27.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 27.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 27.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 28 Krka National Park

88

28.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 28.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 28.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 28.1.3 Flora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 28.1.4 Fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 28.1.5 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89

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28.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.2.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.3 Fees/Permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.4.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.4.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.4.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 28.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 28.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 28.6.1 Boat trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 28.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 28.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 28.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 28.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 28.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 28.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 29 Plitvice National Park

92

29.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 29.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 29.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 29.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 29.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 29.1.5 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 29.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 29.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 29.2.2 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 29.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 29.3.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 29.3.2 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 29.3.3 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.5.1 Walking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.5.2 Boating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.5.3 Hiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.5.4 Skiing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 29.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 29.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 29.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 29.9.1 Lodging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

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29.9.2 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 29.9.3 Backcountry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 29.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 29.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97 30 Dubrovnik-Neretva

98

30.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.2 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 30.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 31 Cavtat

99

31.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 31.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 32 Dubrovnik

100

32.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 32.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 32.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 32.2.2 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 32.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 01 32.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 32.2.5 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 32.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 32.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 32.3.2 Car rental . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103

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32.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 03 32.4.1 Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 32.4.2 City walls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 32.4.3 Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 32.4.4 Museums . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 32.4.5 Beaches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 32.4.6 Other . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 32.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 06 32.5.1 Sailing and boat trips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 32.5.2 Festivals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 32.5.3 Cable car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 32.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 32.6.1 Bicycle parts and service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 32.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 32.7.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 32.7.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 32.7.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 32.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 32.8.1 Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 32.8.2 Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 32.8.3 Clubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 32.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 32.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 32.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 32.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 32.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 32.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 32.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 13 32.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 33 Klek

115

33.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 33.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 33.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 33.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 15 33.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 15 33.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 33.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 33.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 33.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 33.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 33.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116

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34.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 34.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 34.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 17 34.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 17 34.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 34.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 34.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 34.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 34.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 34.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 35 Korčula

119

35.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 35.2 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 35.3 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 35.3.1 By car 35.3.2 By ferry

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

35.3.3 By water taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 19 35.3.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 35.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 35.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 20 35.5.1 Korčula Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 35.5.2 Further Afield . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 35.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 21 35.6.1 Beaches & Nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 35.6.2 Culture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 35.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 35.7.1 Korčula Old Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 35.7.2 Rest of Korčula island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 22 35.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 35.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 35.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 35.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 36 Lumbarda

124

36.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 36.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 36.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 24 36.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 24 36.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 36.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

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36.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 36.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 36.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125 37 Mljet

126

37.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 37.1.1 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 37.1.2 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 37.1.3 National Park entrance fee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 37.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 37.2.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 37.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 37.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 37.3.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 27 37.3.2 By bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 37.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 27 37.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 27 37.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 37.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 37.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 37.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 37.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 37.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 38 Orebić

129

38.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 38.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 38.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 29 38.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 38.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 38.2.4 By air . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 29 38.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 38.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 30 38.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 30 38.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 38.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 38.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 38.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 38.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 38.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 39 Ploče

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39.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.1.1 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.1.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 32 39.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 32 39.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 39.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 40 Ston

133

40.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 40.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 40.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 40.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 33 40.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 34 40.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 40.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 40.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 40.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 40.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 40.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 41 Northern Dalmatia

135

41.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 41.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 41.2.1 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 41.2.2 Parks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 41.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 41.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135 41.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 41.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 41.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 36 41.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 36 41.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 42 Biograd na Moru

137

42.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 42.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137

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42.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 42.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 37 42.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 37 42.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 42.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 42.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 42.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 42.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 43 Dugi Otok

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43.1 Towns and villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 43.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 43.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 43.3.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 43.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 43.4.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 43.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 43.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 43.5.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 39 43.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 39 43.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 40 43.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 43.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 43.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 43.10.1 Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 43.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 44 Kornati National Park

141

44.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 44.1.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 44.1.2 Landscape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 44.1.3 Flora and fauna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 44.1.4 Climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 44.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 44.2.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 44.3 Fees/permits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 44.4 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 44.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 42 44.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 42 44.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 44.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 44.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143

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44.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 44.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 44.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 45 Murter

144

45.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 45.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 45.2 Townships . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 45.3 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.4.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.4.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.4.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 45 45.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 45 45.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 45 45.8 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.11Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 45.12Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 45.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 46 Novalja

147

46.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 46.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 46.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 47 46.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 46.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 46.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 46.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 47 46.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 48 46.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 46.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 46.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 46.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 46.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 46.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 46.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 46.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 46.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149

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46.12Cope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 49 46.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 47 Pag (town)

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47.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 50 47.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 50 47.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 47.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 48 Pašman

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48.1 Towns and villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 51 48.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 51 48.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 48.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 49 Ražanac

152

49.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 52 49.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 52 49.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 49.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 50 Rtina

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50.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 53 50.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 53 50.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 50.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 51 Šibenik

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51.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 51.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 51.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 51.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 51.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 51.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 51.2.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 51.2.5 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 55 51.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 51.3.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 51.3.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 51.3.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 55 51.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 55 51.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 57 51.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 51.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 51.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 51.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 51.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 52 Zadar

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52.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 52.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 52.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 52.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159 52.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 52.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 52.2.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 52.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160

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52.3.1 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 52.3.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 160 52.3.3 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 52.3.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 52.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 61 52.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 62 52.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 52.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 52.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 52.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 52.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 52.9.2 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163 52.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 52.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 53 Split-Dalmatia

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53.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.2 Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 65 53.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 65 53.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 53.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165 54 Baska Voda

166

54.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 54.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 54.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 66 54.4 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 54.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 66 54.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 54.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 54.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 54.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 55 Bratuš

167

55.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 55.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167

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55.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 67 55.4 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 55.5 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 55.6 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 56 Drvenik

169

56.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 56.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 56.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 69 56.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 69 56.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 56.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 56.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 56.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 56.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169 57 Hvar

170

57.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 57.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 57.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 57.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 71 57.4.1 History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 57.4.2 Architecture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 72 57.4.3 The arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 57.4.4 Hikes and walks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 72 57.4.5 Scenery and nature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 57.4.6 Religion and religious sites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 57.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 72 57.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 57.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 57.7.1 Hvar Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 73 57.7.2 Pakleni Islands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 57.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173 57.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 57.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 58 Makarska

175

58.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 58.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 58.2.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 58.2.2 By ferry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 58.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

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58.3.1 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 58.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 75 58.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 75 58.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 58.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 58.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 58.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 58.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 58.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 58.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 58.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 58.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 58.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177 59 Maslinica

178

59.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 78 59.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 78 59.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 59.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 60 Omiš

179

60.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 60.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 60.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 60.1.3 By taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 60.1.4 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 60.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 60.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 79 60.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 79 60.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 60.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 60.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 60.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 60.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180

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61.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 81 61.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 81 61.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 61.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 62 Solta

182

62.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 62.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 62.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 62.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 62.4.1 Churches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 62.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 83 62.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 62.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 62.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 62.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 62.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 62.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183 63 Split

184

63.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 63.1.1 Tourist information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 63.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 63.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 63.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 63.2.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185 63.2.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 63.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 63.3.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 63.3.2 By bike . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 63.3.3 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 63.3.4 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187 63.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 87 63.4.1 Diocletian’s Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187

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63.4.2 Beyond the Diocletian’s Palace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 88 63.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 88 63.5.1 Sailing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 63.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 63.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 63.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 63.8.1 Nightclubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 63.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191 63.9.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 63.9.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 63.9.3 Splurge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 63.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 63.11Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 63.11.1 Internet access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 63.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 64 Trogir

194

64.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 64.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 64.2.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 64.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 64.2.3 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 95 64.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 64.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 95 64.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 95 64.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 64.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 64.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195 64.8.1 In the old part . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 64.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 65 Vinisce

197

65.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.1.1 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.3 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 97 65.4 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 65.8 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197

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65.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 66 Vis

199

66.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 66.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199 66.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 99 66.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 00 66.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 66.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 66.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 66.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 66.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 66.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 67 Brac

202

67.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 67.2 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 67.3 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 67.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 67.5 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 67.6 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 67.6.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 67.6.2 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 02 67.7 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 02 67.8 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 03 67.9 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 67.10Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 67.11Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 67.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 67.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 68 Bol

204

68.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 68.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 68.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 04 68.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 04 68.5 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 68.6 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 68.7 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 68.7.1 Hostels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 68.7.2 Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 68.7.3 Apartments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 05

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68.8 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 69 Milna

207

69.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 69.1.1 By boat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 69.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 69.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 07 69.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 07 69.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 69.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 69.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 69.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 69.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 69.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 70 Supetar

209

70.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 70.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 70.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 09 70.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 09 70.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 70.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 70.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 70.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 70.9 Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 70.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 71 Kvarner

211

71.1 Regions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 71.2 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 71.3 Other destinations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 71.4 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 71.5 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 71.6 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 71.7 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 71.8 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 12 71.9 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 12 71.10Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 71.11Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 71.12Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 71.13Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 72 Mali Losinj

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72.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 72.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 72.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 72.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 13 72.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 13 72.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 72.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 72.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 72.9 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 72.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213 73 Rab

214

73.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 73.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 73.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 73.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 14 73.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 14 73.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 73.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 73.8 Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 73.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 74 Rijeka

216

74.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 74.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 74.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 17 74.2.2 By plane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 74.2.3 By train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 74.2.4 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 74.2.5 By ship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 74.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 74.3.1 By foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 74.3.2 By public transport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 74.3.3 By Taxi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 18 74.4 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 74.5 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 18 74.6 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 20 74.7 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 74.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 74.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 74.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 74.10.1 Budget . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221

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74.10.2 Mid-range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 74.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 75 Senj

223

75.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 23 75.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 23 75.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.9.1 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 75.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 76 Cres

224

76.1 Towns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 76.2 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 76.3 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 76.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 76.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 76.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 24 76.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 24 76.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 76.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 76.10Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 76.11Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 76.12Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 77 Beli

226

77.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 77.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 77.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 77.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 26 77.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 26 77.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 77.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 77.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 77.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226 77.9.1 Camping Brajdi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

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77.10Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 77.10.1 Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 27 77.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 78 Krk

228

78.1 Cities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 78.2 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 78.3 Talk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 78.4 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 78.5 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 78.5.1 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 78.5.2 Hitchhiking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 78.6 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 29 78.7 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 29 78.8 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 78.9 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 78.10Stay safe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 78.11Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229 79 Baška

230

79.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 79.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 79.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 30 79.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 30 79.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 79.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 79.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 79.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 79.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 80 Malinska

231

80.1 Understand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 80.2 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 80.2.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 31 80.2.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 80.2.3 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 80.3 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 80.4 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 31 80.5 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 31 80.6 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 80.7 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 80.8 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231

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80.9 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 80.10Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 81 Njivice

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81.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.1.1 By car . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 33 81.1.2 By bus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.1.3 On foot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 33 81.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 33 81.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 81.9 Giong out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233 82 Punat

234

82.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 82.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 82.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 34 82.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 34 82.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 82.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 82.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 82.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 82.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 83 Town Krk

235

83.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 83.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 83.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 35 83.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 35 83.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 83.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 83.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 83.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 83.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 84 Vrbnik

236

84.1 Get in . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 84.2 Get around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 84.3 See . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 36

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84.4 Do . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 36 84.5 Buy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 84.6 Eat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 84.7 Drink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 84.8 Sleep . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 84.9 Go next . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 84.10Text and image sources, contributors, and licenses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 84.10.1 Text . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 84.10.2 Images . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 84.10.3 Content license . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248

Chapter 1

Croatia Croatia (Croatian: Hrvatska) is a Mediterranean country that bridges Central Europe and the Balkans. It is on the eastern side of the Adriatic Sea, across from Italy on the western side. It is bordered by Slovenia to the northwest, Hungary to the north, Bosnia and Herzegovina to the southeast, Serbia in the east, and Montenegro to the south.

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1.1 Regions

Sisak - largest river port, city on three rivers and a city that has stopped the spread of the Turks in Europe in 1593, formerly Siscia Slavonski Brod - a once important star-fort on the Ottoman defensive line

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Rijeka - Croatia’s largest and main port

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Varaždin - Croatia’s former Baroque capital

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Zadar - biggest city of north-central Dalmatia with rich history

1.3 Other destinations

Map of Croatia

There are three distinct areas of Croatia: Lowland Croatia (cr: Nizinska Hrvatska ), Littoral Croatia (Primorska Hrvatska) and Mountainous Croatia (Gorska Hrvatska) and these can be neatly split into five travel regions:

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Krka National Park – river valley near Šibenik

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Island of Cres

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Island of Hvar

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Island of Brač

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Island of Krk

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Island of Šolta

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Makarska on the Makarska Riviera

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Plitvice National Park

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Žumberak – mountainous region that spans the border between Slovenia and Croatia

1.4 Understand 1.2 Cities •

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1.4.1 Climate

Zagreb - the capital and largest city

Northern Croatia has a temperate continental climate, Dubrovnik - historic coastal city and UNESCO while the central and upland regions have a mountainous climate. The entireAdriatic coast has a pleasant MediterWorld Heritage site ranean climate. Spring and autumn are mild along the Split - ancient port city with Roman ruins coast, while winter is cold and snowy in central andnorth Pula - biggest town in Istria with the Roman am- ern regions. The average temperature inland in January ranges from 10°C to 5°C; August 19°C to 39°C. The phitheater (commonly called Arena) average temperature at the seaside is higher: January 6°C Osijek - capital of Slavonia and an important city to 11°C; August 21°C to 39°C. −

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1.4.2 Terrain It is geographically diverse with flat agricultural plains along the Hungarian border (Central European area), low mountains and highlands near the Adriatic coastline, and islands. There are 1,246 islands; the largest ones are Krk and Cres. The highest point is Dinara at 1,830 m.

1.4.3 History The Croats settled in the region in the early 7th century and formed two principalities: Croatia and Pannonia. The establishment of the Trpimirović dynasty ca 850 brought strengthening to theDalmatian Croat Duchy, which together with the Pannonian principality became a kingdom in 925 under King Tomislav. Independent Croatian kingdom lasted until 1102 when Croatia, after a series of dynastic struggles entered into a personal union with Hungary, with a Hungarian king ruling over both countries. In 1526, after the Battle of Mohács, where Hungary suffered a catastrophic defeat against Ottoman Turks, Croatia severed it’s relationship with Hungary and its parliament (Sabor) voted to form a new personal union with the Habsburg Monarchy. Croatia remained an autonomous kingdom within the Hapsburg state (and later Austria-Hungary) until the empire’s dissolution following defeat in World War I.

CHAPTER 1. CROATIA

communist grip on power on the eve of the fall of communism in Eastern Europe, the first free elections were held in Yugoslavia in almost 45 years. In these elections, nationalist options won power in all Yugoslav republics, which led to a rise in inter-ethnic tensions, culminating when Croatia and Slovenia declared their independence from Yugoslavia in 1991. This led to open war in newly independent Croatia and later in Bosnia and Herzegovina which declared its independence in 1992. The wars ended four years later, in 1995, with a decisive Croatian victory in operation Storm, bringing peace to both countries. The anniversary of operation Storm is celebrated as Thanksgiving Day in Croatia every August 5. After a period of accelerated economic growth in the late 1990s and 2000s Croatia joined NATO in 2009 and the European Union in 2013. Croatia today is a functioning liberal democracy, with a free market system and a robust welfare state.

1.4.4 Holidays •

January 1: New Year’s Day

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January 6: Epiphany

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Easter (according to the Gregorian calendar)

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Corpus Christi (60 days after Easter)

In 1918, a short-lived State of Slovenes, Croats and Serbs May 1: International Workers’ Day (carved out of south Slavic parts of Austria-Hungary) June 22: Anti-Fascist Struggle Day joined the Kingdom of Serbia to form the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, later renamed Yugoslavia in June 25: Statehood Day 1929. The new state was unitarist in character, eras August 5: Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving ing all historical borders within its new territorial diviDay and the Day of Croatian defenders sion, which resulted in a strong movement for more autonomy for Croatia. This was achieved in 1939, only August 15: Assumption of Mary days before the start of World War II, when Croatia was granted broad autonomy within Yugoslavia as Banovina October 8: Independence Day of Croatia. When Germany and Italy attacked Yugoslavia December 25: Christmas in 1941, the state was dissolved, parts of it annexed to Germany and Italy, and puppet governments installed in Croatia and Serbia. Almost immediately, a strong resistance movement was formed, led by communist leader 1.5 Get in Josip Broz “Tito” (an ethnic Croat), which gained broad popular support. After the end of World War II, a new, communist Yugoslavia was formed with Tito becoming “president for life”. Tito ruled with a strong hand, using political repression and secret police to quell any separatist sentiments, with the official motto of the new country being “Brotherhood and Union”. Still, because Yugoslavia didn't belong to the Warsaw Pact, having broken off political ties with the USSR in 1948, it was by far the most open socialist country in Europe and its citizens enjoyed more civil liberties and a higher living standard than the rest of the Communist bloc. After Tito’s death in 1980, theweakening of political repression led to a period of political instability. Faced with the rise of nationalist Croatian National Theatre in Zagreb sentiment, a decade-long recession, and the weakening of •

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1.5. GET IN

Travel to/from any other country (Schengen or not) from/to Croatia will (as of now) result in the normal immigration checks, although customs checks will be waived when travelling to/from another EU country. Inquire with your travel agent or with the local embassy or consulate of Croatia. Any person not covered by a visa exemption will need to apply for a visa at a Croatian embassy or consulate in advance. The application fee for a short stay Croatian visa is €35.

Croatia has 1244 islands

More information about visa exemptions and the visa application procedure is available at thewebsiteof theCroatian Ministry of Foreign and European Affairs .

1.5.2 By plane The only flights from outside Europe are from Tel Aviv and Doha, and the occasional charter flight from Tokyo and Seoul. If coming from North America, you will have to transfer at a hub such as London or Frankfurt airport. •

City of Hvar has average of 2726 hours of sunshine per year, likewise many other Croatian towns on Adriatic coast. Croatia is a land of urban culture which numbers more cities than any other part of the Mediterranean

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Dubrovnik is a city in Southern Dalmatia. Croatia has 20 UNESCO heritage sites and treasures of tradition.

1.5.1 Entry requirements Croatia is committed to implementing the Schengen Agreement although it hasn't yet done so. For citizens of the European Union (EU) or European Free Trade Area (EFTA) (i.e. Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland), an officially approved ID card (or a passport) is sufficient for entry. Other nationalities will generally require a passport for entry.

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Croatia Airlines, the national carrier and member of Star Alliance, flies to Amsterdam, Berlin, Brussels, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Munich, Paris, Prague, Tel Aviv, Rome, Sarajevo, Skopje, Vienna, Zürich and - during the tourist season - Manchester. Adria Airways - Slovenian national carrier flies from Ljubljana to Split and Dubrovnik (note: there are no flights from Ljubljana to Zagreb as the two are located close together and are around 2 hours by car/train/bus) Aer Lingus Dublin - Dubrovnik Air Serbia flies from Belgrade to Dubrovnik, Pula and Split in the summer Austrian Airlines flies from Vienna to Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik Alitalia flies from Milan Malpensa to Zagreb and Split. British Airways flies from London Gatwick to Dubrovnik CSA Czech Airlines - SkyTeam member; flies from Prague to Zagreb all the year, and to Split during summer. Darwin Airline flies between Geneva and Dubrovnik (Thursdays and Sundays) as well as Zürich and Dubrovnik (Saturdays). EasyJet has flights to the following destinations in Croatia: •

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London Gatwick - Split

Nordica is flying from Tallinn to Dubrovnik.

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FlyBe operates routes between Dubrovnik and two UK destinations Exeter and Birmingham.

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GermanWings - cheap connection from Berlin, Cologne, Stuttgart and Hamburg, to Zagreb, Split, Zadar and Dubrovnik KLM connects Amsterdam with Zagreb Norwegian connects Oslo with Rijeka, Split and Dubrovnik

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Ryanair flies from Dublin and Karlsruhe-Baden to Zadar.

Trieste (for Ryanair flights from London Stansted). You can also use Venice Marco Polo (for British Airways flights from the UK) or Venice Treviso (Ryanair from Stanstead). Ancona is also an option (Ryanair from Stansted) for those who want to take ferry or hydrofoil to Zadar and Split. Ryanair also flies to Pescara which is a short drive away from Ancona. Some may decide to use Tivat Airport (in Montenegro) which is within easy reach from Dubrovnik.

Scandjet is a Scandinavian low fare airline that con- 1.5.3 By train nects Sweden, Norway and Denmark with Croatia. The rail network connects all major Croatian cities, exIt flies from: cept Dubrovnik (you can take a train to Split then take one of the frequent buses or the more scenic ferry to Oslo to Split Dubrovnik, the train station is at the pier). There are Stockholm to Pula, Split and Dubrovnik direct lines from Austria, Czech Republic, Switzerland, Gothenburg to Zagreb, Pula, Zadar and Split Germany, Hungary (suspended due to immigrant crisis), Slovenia, Italy, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia. Copenhagen to Pula, Split. There are indirect lines from almost all other European TAP Portugal is flying from Zagreb to Lisbon via countries. Bologna three times a week (Wednesdays, Fridays, Tourists coming from or going to neighboring countries Sundays). should note the following EuroCity and InterCity as well as EuroNight railway lines: Vueling, a Spanish low-cost carrier flies between Dubrovnik and Barcelona. EC “Mimara": Frankfurt - Munich - Salzburg Ljubljana - Zagreb Wizz Air flies between Zagreb and London (Luton Airport) IC “Croatia": Vienna - Maribor - Zagreb, also by EuroNight train •

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EN 414: Zurich - Zagreb - Beograd (can be booked online with SBB or any other railway agency by phone) IC “Adria": Budapest - Zagreb - Split (suspended due to immigrant crisis, direct connection to Split only during summer)

The German Railways (Deutsche Bahn) has a Europe Special/Croatia, where they sell Munchen-Zagreb starting at €39. •

Sisak is a city in Central Croatia, 55 km from Zagreb.

Additionally you can use airports in neighboring countries which are within few hours of reach from Zagreb and Rijeka (apart from some of the listed options in Italy): •

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Ljubljana (for EasyJet flights to London Stansted or other Adria Airways flights) Graz and Klagenfurt (for Ryanair flights from London Stansted)

Note: While Croatia is covered on some Eurail passes, staff at domestic ticket windows tend to have no idea about validating the pass on the first day of use. There are recorded instances of staff saying that the conductor would validate thepass, and theconductor simply treating it as a regular ticket. Fortunately, the international ticket staff (particularly in Zagreb) are aware of how to validate the pass, and have been known to validate it retroactively where necessary. They even ask for the details of the domestic ticket seller who gave the wrong information. The traveller is therefore recommended to have already validated their Eurail pass on arrival in Croatia, or to have

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1.6. GET AROUND

it validated at an international window even if the first trip Dubrovnik and Split are the main destinations of inon it will be domestic. ternational buses from Bosnia and Hercegovina or Montenegro, with daily buses traveling to cities such as Sarajevo, Mostar and Kotor (some lines such as Split1.5.4 By car Mostar operate every few hours). Seasonal lines also extend through to Skopje from Dubrovnik. Border formalTo enter Croatia, a driver’s license, an automobile reg- ities on the buses are extremely efficient, and do not inistration card and vehicle insurance documents are re- volve leaving the bus (previous services from Dubrovnik quired. If you need road assistance, you should dial 1987. to Kotor involved changing buses at the Croatian border). The following speeds are permitted: Osijek is a very big bus hub for international travel to Hungary, Serbia and Bosnia in addition to its local buses, 50 km/h - within built-up areas and the station is located conveniently next to the railway station. Many buses heading from Zagreb north into 90 km/h - outside built-up areas Hungary or Austria will pass through Varaždin. 110 km/h - on major motor routes •

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When driving in the rain, you should adjust speed to conditions on wet roads. Driving with headlights is not obligatory during the day (during Daylight Savings Time; it is obligatory during winter months). Use of mobile phones while driving is not permitted. Maximum permitted amount of alcohol in blood is 0.05% (matching neighboring Slovenia and Bosnia-Herzegovina) although this has varied and was down to 0% until that was found to not be tenable in the country. Use of seat belts is obligatory. Hrvatski Auto Klub is the Croatian Automobile Club dedicated to assisting drivers and promoting greater traffic security. Its site offers minute-by-minute updates, status of national traffic, weather, numerous maps and webcams located all over Croatia. Content is available in Croatian, English, German and Italian.

1.5.5 By bus

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1.5.6 By boat Ferries are cheap and go regularly between various places by the coast. Although not the fastest, they are probably the best way to see the beautiful Croatian islands of the Adriatic Sea. Jadrolinija is the main Croatian passenger shipping line that maintains the largest number of regular international and domestic ferry and shipping lines. The following international lines are serviced by car ferries: •

Rijeka - Zadar - Split - Hvar - Korčula -Dubrovnik - Bari

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Split - Ancona - Split

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Korčula - Hvar - Split - Ancona

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Zadar - Ancona - Zadar

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Zadar - Dugi otok - Ancona

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Dubrovnik - Bari - Dubrovnik

Very good network of buses once in the country - cheap Blue Line International also covers the international line: and regular. If you are coming from Italy there are two buses daily from Venice leaving at 11AM and 1:45PM going to Istria, with a final stop in Pula. These are operated by two different bus companies, but you can buy tickets for both buses at the A.T.V.O bus office at the Venice bus station. The office is in the bus station, but located outside on the ground level across from where all the buses park. Both buses pick up at spot b15. It is roughly a 5 hour bus ride, with stops in Trieste and Rovinj. You can also pick up the bus at the bus station in Mestre, fifteen minutes after the scheduled bus leaves Venice. Coming in from Trieste, Italy is popular among Europeans, for Trieste is a Ryanair destination. You cross the Italian-Slovenian border first, followed by the Slovenian-Croatian border, but they are very close to one another.

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Venezia Lines has regular catamaran lines between Venice and the Croatian cities of Poreč, Pula, Rovinj and Rabac.

1.6 Get around 1.6.1 By plane National airline company Croatia Airlines connects major cities in Croatia to each other andforeign destinations. Due to the comparatively short distances and relatively

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high hassle of air travel - especially when you travel with luggage - domestic air travel is used mostly for getting to end points - e.g., Zagreb to Dubrovnik (see map) and vice-versa. Another popular flight (available in the summer months only) is between Split and Osijek, saving a long trip back through Croatia, or alternatively through the middle of Bosnia.

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Train travel is definitely improving in Croatia, with money being spent on updating the aging infrastructure and vehicles. Trains are clean and mostly on time.

CroatiaBus - bus company - timetable information, prices, content in Croatian and English. Autotrans Rijeka - bus company - timetable information, prices, content in Croatian and English. Autobusni promet Varaždin - bus company timetable information, prices, content in Croatian, English and German. Contus - bus company - timetable information, prices, content in Croatian and English. Libertas Dubrovnik - bus terminal and company information in Dubrovnik, with international and domestic information. Content mostly in Croatian.

Croatia’s rail network connects all major Croatian cities, 1.6.4 By boat except Dubrovnik. If you want to visit Dubrovnik, you will have to travel by train to Split, and then go on the Croatia is endowed with a beautiful coastlinewhich is best bus for Dubrovnik. Trains to Pula are actually connected explored by ferry to access the hundreds of islands. via Slovenia due to historical accident, though there are In many instances, the only way to get to the islands is by designated connecting buses from Rijeka. ferry or catamaran. If you plan on using either you should Rail is still the cheapest connection between inland and check these web sites because they have the regular ferry coast, though not the most frequent. 160km/h “tilting and catamaran information. trains” that connect Zagreb with Split and other major cities in Croatia such as Rijeka and Osijek have been in Jadrolinija - Jadrolinija is the Croatian National troduced, resulting in higher levels of comfort and sigferry company, and as well as routes operating from nificantly faster journeys between cities (Zagreb-Split is the major cities to the islands, operate a ferry along now 5.5h from 9, Osijek is now 3 when other trains take the Adriatic Coast from Rijeka to Dubrovnik (and around 4.5h). If you make a reservation early enough you then across to Bari, Italy) calling at Split, Hvar, Mlcan get a substantial discount, or if you are a holder of an jet and Korčula. Check timetables as the schedules ISIC card etc. are seasonal. The boats are large and have sleeping Information for the trains can be found on the Hrvatske facilities as the Rijeka-Split leg goes overnight. željeznice - Croatian Railways site in Croatian and English has timetable and prices. SNAV is an Italian company connecting Split with Ancona and Pescara. Check timetables as the Tickets are not usually sold on board, except if you hapschedules are seasonal. pen to get on the train on one of the few stations/stops without ticket sales. However, only local trains stop on Azzura lines, is an Italian operator connecting such stations. In all other cases, a ticket bought on the Dubrovnik withBari Check timetables as the schedtrain will cost considerably more than the one bought outules are seasonal. side the train. Split Hvar taxi boat Taxi boat service that works from 0-24H and can take you anywhere you want. •

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1.6.3 By bus A very comprehensive coach network connects all parts of the country. Bus service between major cities (intercity lines) is quite frequent, as well as regional services. The most frequent bus terminal in Croatia is Bus Terminal Zagreb (in Croatian “Autobusni kolodvor Zagreb”). Despite the recent improvements in the railway network, buses are faster than trains for inter-city travel. See Bus travel in the former Yugoslavia for more information.

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Autobusni kolodvor Zagreb - Bus Terminal Zagreb, timetable information, content in Croatian, English

Yacht Charter in Croatia, a charter company with one of the largest fleets, situated in Split ACI Marina. A Yacht Charter Croatia offers a variety of sailing yachts, gulets and catamarans. Antlos offers a selection of skippered yacht holidays in Croatia, including Split, Hvar, Brac and the whole of the Dalmatian Coast. Navis Yacht Charter services are intended for those who want to explore coast and hidden bays by sea for one week or more.

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Europe Yachts Charter Europe Yachts Charter of- to cross a short portion of Bosnia-Herzegovina, so check fers you chartering services in Croatia and some if you need a visa or other special requirements for enother Mediterranean countries. try into Bosnia (EU and US citizens don't need a visa). Another major motorway is the A3, linking the SloveCroatia Cruise Cabin Charter Discover a completely nian border (not far from Zagreb) with eastern Croatia new cruising experience that gives you the freedom and the Serbian border (120 km from Belgrade). The to sail individually or in smaller groups. general speed limit on motorways is 130 km/h (81 mph). Crewed Yacht Charter in CroatiaLion Queen char- You will probably encounter cars driving much faster, but ter offers Gulet Cruises Croatia as one of the main following their example is of course highly unsafe. specialist in this area. When exiting a toll motorway, ask thereceipt at toll booth if it is not given to you to be sure you do not get overIf traveling as an individual or small group tour op- charged (you could receive along with the receipt some erators like Med Experience offer individual spots unexpected change compared with the price you were on a yacht trip down the coast. given verbally) Map with Croatian yachting marinas There are 6 If an unknown person flashes their car lights at you it may main regions where you can charter a yacht: Is- be a sign that they've recently passed a police unit doing tria, Kvarner gulf, Zadar region, Sibenik region, speed limit checks. Ensure you are in compliance with Split region and Dubrovnik. All of them all well- all the traffic rules and regulations to avoid being stopped communicated with Croatian airports. and fined.

Outside the summer months it is often difficult or impossible to make a day trip to the more remote islands. This is because ferry schedules are made to suit commuters who live on islands and travel to the mainland, not vice versa.

1.6.5 By car

Trying to find a parking space near Croatia’s coastal old towns in the summer can be an exercise in futility. Even though prices range from the merely expensive 7 kn in Split to the extortionate 30 kn per hour in Dubrovnik, the spaces fill up very quickly. However, away from the old towns, parking is convenient and often free at shopping malls and large supermarkets, sports venues, near residential tower blocks and at restaurants (free for guests).

Roads in Croatia are usually well maintained, but usually very narrow and full of curves. Some local roads in Istria have been worn down to a smooth surface from regular wear and tear, and can be extremely slippery when wet. It’s difficult to find a true highway with more than one lane per direction, the only exceptions being the ones connecting Rijeka, Zagreb, Osijek, Zadar and Split. Speed limits are thus low (60–90 km/h), and it’s not recommended to drive faster (although most locals do), especially at night. Be aware of animals crossing the road. In case you want to overtake a slow vehicle on a narrow road, often the drivers in front of you will set the right yellow turning lights, and drive on the very right side, to sign the drivers behind, that it is ok to overtake. But on your own risk.

1.6.6 By taxi

On Croatian Motorways toll fees apply (and may be paid in either kuna or euros). The A6 motorway between Zagreb and Rijeka was finished at the end of 2008, while the main motorway A1 from Zagreb to Dubrovnik is still under construction (the current ending point is in Vrgorac, which is 70 km from Dubrovnik). Note that to reach southern Dalmatia including Dubrovnik, you need

toll stop simply ask people to take you with them as they open their windows to pay the toll. The toll collectors usually won't mind. The tricky part, of course, is to get tothetollstop. Ifyouarein Zagreb and you are, like most people, heading south, take the bus 111 from the Savski most station in Zagreb and ask the bus driver where to get off to get to the toll stop. Next best place to ask people

You can use a taxi service by calling 970, or sometimes another number for a private company – check individual city articles. The taxi usually comes within 10 to 15 minutes from the call except in the busy summer season where it depends on how much business they have. Croatian taxis are generally rather expensive. You can also book the transportation in advance which is great when you are in a hurry or have a larger number of people in need of transportation, or you just want everything organized in advance.

You can also prearrange a taxi service by E-mail in adRenting a car is around the same price as in the EU (from vance to have even more comfort and to save money since around €40). Almost all cars have a manual transmis- this taxi operators are cheaper than the regular taxi sersion. Most rental agencies in the Balkans allow you to rent vice. a carin one country anddrive in theneighboring countries however try to avoid a renting a car in Serbia and driving 1.6.7 By thumb it into Croatia (or vice versa) in order to avoid negative attention from nationalists. Hitchhiking is generally good. If you can get to a highway

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to pick you up are gas stations. And finally, just using the good old thumb will work too if everything else fails. On someroads, hitchhiking is not permitted. Roads on which you cannot hitchhike are usually denoted by a sign with the word 'autostop' crossed out ('autostop' is Croatian for 'hitchhiking').

1.7 Talk See also: Croatian phrasebook

The main language is Croatian, that is a Slavic language which is very similar to Serbian and Bosnian . Many Croatians can speak English to some level, but German and Italian are also very popular too (largely because of the large annual influx of German and Italian tourists). Elderly people will rarely speak English, although they may be able to converse in German or Italian. If you know Polish or Czech then these languages have some similarities to Croatian. Some people might also speak French or Russian. Many older people can speak Russian but this has largely been supplanted by English among the younger generations.

1.9.1 Sailing Sailing is a good way to see the coastal islands and networks of small archipelagos. Most charters leave from Split or the surrounding area on the North or the South circuit, each offering its own pros and cons. A good way is to book a package with a company at home, although many Croatian companies also offer both bareboat and crewed charters. Booking of a charter vessel is basically done in two parts. Fifty percent of the charter price is paid right away, after which the booking is confirmed. The other fifty percent of the charter fee is usually paid four weeks before the charter date. Before the first payment of the charter fee you should request to see the charter contract from the agency where you chartered a boat. Pay close attention to cancellation fees because many times if you cancel your charter vacation you could lose the initial fifty percent you already paid when you booked a charter so take a close look at that in the charter contract. After that you are set for a sailing vacation. When you arrive to marina where your chartered yacht is situated you need to do the check in (usually Saturday around 16:00) and you have to do the shopping for the charter vacation. Don't neglect the groceries shopping because the sea is unpredictable and you don't want to get stuck on the boat without anything to eat or drink.

You can do the shopping in a marina (although the prices are much higher there) or you can order from yacht provi1.8 See sioning services who usually deliver the products to your chartered yacht at no extra fee. This is convenient beCroatia has an impressive history, a fact that is best ex- cause it takes the load off you and the things you must do plained through the vast array of sites worth visiting. when you arrive at the marina for your sailing holiday. Most towns have an historical centre with its typical architecture. There are differences between the coast and the continental part, so both areas are a must. The most 1.9.2 Naturist resorts famous town is probably Dubrovnik, a prime example of the coastal architecture, but by no means the only one Croatia was the first country in Europe to start with the worth visiting. Equallyimportant is the capitaland largest concept of commercial naturist resorts. According to city, Zagreb, with a population of about 1 million. It is a some estimates about 15% of all tourists that visit the modern city with all the modern features, yet it has a laid country are naturists or nudists (more than one million back feel. In the east, in the region of Slavonia with its each year). There are more than 20 official naturist reregional capital Osijek and the war torn Vukovar are awe sorts as well as a very large number of the so-called free inspiring. Scattered throughout the region are vineyards beaches which are unofficial naturist beaches, sometimes and wine cellars, most of which give tours and tastings. controlled and maintained by local tourist authorities. In Throughout the country there are numerous cultural fact, you are likely to find nudists on any beach outside of venues that are worth seeing. Croatia has 7 UNESCO town centres. Naturist beaches in Croatia are marked as protected sites, 8 national parks and 10 nature parks. “FKK”. In total, the country has 444 protected areas. Beauti- The most popular nudist destinations are Pula, Hvar and ful Adriatic sea stretches along 1,777 km (1,104 mi) of island Rab. coastline, there are 1,246 islands to be seen making Croatia an attractive nautical destination.

1.9.3 Medical tourism

1.9 Do

Increasingly Croatia is becoming a popular place for health tourism. A number of dental surgeries have experience in treating short term visitors to Croatia. Croa-

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tian dentists study for 5 years in Zagreb or Rijeka. Har- Taxi drivers and hairdressers are often given tips by monization of training with EU standards has begun, in rounding up the displayed price to the nearest multiple preparation for Croatia’s accession. of 5 or 10 kuna.

1.9.4 Croatia for the disabled Facilities for the disabled are not as developed as elsewhere, but there are exceptions to this and certain hotels, camp sites and beaches have facilities for the disabled and wheelchair access.

1.9.5 Lighthouses One of Croatia’s more “wild” holiday offers are the lighthouses. Most of them are situated on a deserted coastline or in the open sea. The speciality of this is that you are able to cut yourself off from the rest of the world and take the time to “smell the roses”. Sometimes the best way to relax is to take part in a Robinson Crusoe style holiday. Croatia has 11 rent-a-lighthouses along the Adriatic coast: Savudrija, Sv. Ivan, Rt Zub, Porer, Veli Rat, Prisnjak, Sv. Petar, Pločica, Sušac, Struga and Palagruža.

1.10 Buy 1.10.1 Money

A unique practice of tipping exists among the pensioners who receive their pension via mail in rural settlements. They may leave any coinage to the postman who delivers it as a sign of appreciation.

1.10.4 Tax-free shopping If you buy goods worth more than 740 kuna you are entitled to a PDV (VAT) tax return when leaving the country. Note that this applies to all goods except petroleum products. At point of purchase ask the sales person for a PDV-P form. Fill it out and have it stamped on the spot. On leaving Croatia the receipt will be verified by the Croatian Customs service. A PDV refund in Kunas canbe obtained within six months, either at thesame shop where you bought the goods (in that case the tax will be refunded to you immediately), or by posting the verified receipt back to the shop, together with the account number into which the refund should be paid. In this case the refund is dealt with within 15 days of receipt of the claim. There is another, much easier way to receive the refund. Buy your goods in shops with a “CROATIA TAX-FREE SHOPPING” label. This label is displayed on the shop’s entrance, usually next to the labels of credit and debit cards this particular shop accepts. Using an international coupon, refundis possible in allcountries-members of the TAX-FREE international chain. In this case the service charge is deducted from the tax refund amount.

Croatia’s official currency is the kuna, denoted by the symbol "kn" (ISO code: HRK). Although many tourist business owners may accept euros, they are not legal tender in Croatia. Any amount of kuna you have left at the Croatia now uses the Global Blue system. They will do end of your stay can be converted to euros at a local bank the refund and take a commission. You can do this at the or exchange office. airport or post it once you get home. Prices are around 10% to 20% lower than most other EU countries. Tourist destinations and articles are much more expensive.

1.10.5 Natural cosmetics 1.10.2 ATMs

The ingredients used (herbs, olive oil, etc.) are grown ATMs (in Croatian bankomat ) are readily available in Croatia. In comparison to some world famous beauty throughout Croatia. They will accept various Euro- products, Croatian natural cosmetics present real value pean bank cards, credit cards (Diners Club, Euro- for the money. card/MasterCard, Visa, American Express etc.) and Ulola manufacturers soaps, bath salts, body butters and debit cards (Cirrus, Maestro, Visa electron etc.). Read more. It’s all natural and comes in combinations like: orthe labels/notices on the machine before using. ange and cinnamon, goats milk and almond oil, etc.

1.10.3 Tipping

S-Atea manufacturers soaps, shower gels, body butter and more. Seaweed, olive oil, rosemary and lavender are some of their main ingredients.

Tipping is not particularly common, although it may occur in restaurants and bars. Prices are usually already adjusted upwards, and labour laws ensure a minimum wage for all workers, therefore tipping is usually not expected.

Brac fini sapuni (Brac quality soaps) manufacturers a wide range of natural soaps, the latest addition to their bath line is Aurum Croaticum made from virgin olive oil and thin leafs of 23 carat gold!

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1.10.6 Croatian clothing designers There are many Croatian designers and clothing specialists. Etnobutik “Mara” (designs by Vesna Milković) offers a range of really unique clothing and accessories inscribed with “glagoljica” (glagolitic script; old Slavic alphabet). Some of her designs are protected as Authentic Croatian produce. I-gle Fashion Studio by two female designers Nataša Mihaljčišin i Martina Vrdoljak-Ranilović. Their clothing is sold in Harvey Nichols in Knightsbridge (London).; Nebo (“Sky”) is a fashion house that makes really nice, funky clothes and shoes. Nit (“Thread”) is definitely not widely known even among Croats but is definitely worth visiting as they have some “funky andartybut serious” clothing items that are “value for money”. Borovo is a well-priced and stylish shoe company which makes everything from flip-flops to desert boots and high heels.

1.11 Eat Croatian cuisine is quite diverse so it is hard to say what meal is most typically Croatian. In the eastern continental regions (Slavonija and Baranja) spicy sausage such as kulen or kulenova seka is a must-try. Čobanac (“shepherd’s stew”) is a mixture of several different kinds of meat with a lot of red spicy paprika. In Hrvatsko Zagorje and Central Croatia pasta filled with cheese called štrukli is a famous delicacy (it is said that the best štrukli in Croatia is served in the Esplanade Hotel restaurant in Zagreb), as is purica s mlincima (baked turkey with a special kind of pastry). Sir i vrhnje (sour cream with cottage cheese) can be bought fresh on the Zagreb main market Dolac. Croats love a bit of oil and you will find plenty of it in piroška. In mountainous regions of Lika and Gorski Kotar meals made of mushrooms, wild berries and wild meat are very popular. One of typical dishes in Lika is police (oven-baked potatoes covered with bacon) and several kinds of cheese (smoked cheese and škripavac ). The coastal region is well known for truffle delicacies and soup maneštra od bobić (Istria), Dalmatian pršut and paški sir (Pag-island cheese). Dishes made of fresh fish and other products of the sea (calamari, octopus, crabs, scampi) shouldn't be given a miss! Many places serve fish delivered from the local fisherman the night before - find out which ones! Croatian cuisine has yet to come up with a Croatian fast food representative. The market is dominated by globally ubiquitous hamburgers and pizzas but you will also find “burek” and "ćevapčići” imported from the medieval Ottoman empire which stretched from Turkey to neigh-

CHAPTER 1. CROATIA

boring Bosnia. The latter two dishes are widely popular in the entire South and Eastern Europe. Burek is a type of cheese-pastry whereas ćevapčići are seasoned minced meat shaped in finger-size portions served in bread and often covered with onions. Although definitely not a fast meal (takes several hours to prepare) also foreign in origin is the so-called sarma or sauerkraut rolls filled with mincedmeat andrice. For those coming back fromnightclubs at 4 or 5AM as is common in Croatia, it is popular to go to the local bakery and get fresh bread, burek or krafne (Croatian chocolate filled donuts) straight out of the oven. Delicious! As far as fast food goes, who needs it when you can buy delicious prsut during the day and warm bread at night to compliment it. Most Croatians generally look down at fast food. Desserts: What it lacks in the fast food department Croatia makes up with a myriad of desserts. Probably the most famous is its delicious creamy cake called kremšnite but different kinds of gibanica, štrudla and pita (similar to strudel and pie) such as orehnjača (walnut), makovnjača (poppy) or bučnica (pumpkin and cheese) are also highly recommended. Dubrovačka torta od skorupa is delicious but hard to find. Paprenjaci (pepper cookies) are said to reflect the Croatian tumultuous history because they combine the harshness of the war periods (pepper) with the natural beauties (honey). They canbe bought in most souvenir shops though fresh-made are always a better choice. Rapska torta (The Rab island cake) is made with almonds and locally famous cherry liquor Maraschino. It should be noted that this is hardly an exhaustive list and even a casual glimpse in any Croatian cookbook is likely to be worth the effort. Chocolate candy “Bajadera” is available throughout shops in the country and along with “Griotte” is one of themost famous products of theCroatian chocolate industry. An unavoidable ingredient in many meals prepared in Croatia is “Vegeta”. It is a spice produced by “Podravka”. Olives: a lot of people claim that Croatian olives and their olive oil are the best in the world, which is not even well known in Croatia and less worldwide. Many brands exist and some of them have several world awards. Try to buy olive oil from Istra (although oil from Dalmatia is also excellent) and choose only Croatian brands for olives (most notable sms, few times awarded as the world’s best!). Try to read the declaration before buying to ensure you are buying Croatian olives and oil, since there are a lot of imports (usually cheap products from Greece). All of this can be found in most of the supermarkets, but you should be really aware of the imports, most of the Croatian people aren't experts and prefer cheaper products, so they dominate. The olive oil is an irreplaceable “ingredient” in the coastal cuisine, but you should be aware of the use of cheaper, not Croatian, oil in restaurants because most of the tourists don't notice the difference so the restaurants don't find it profitable to use excellent oil; they rather use cheaper Spanish or Greek. Usually, asking the waiter for a better oil (and looking like an expert) helps, and soon

11

1.14. LEARN

he gets you a first-class oil from a hidden place.

1.14 Learn

European Union citizens have the same status as Croatian citizens when applying to Croatian universities. Full English-language courses in computer science and Alcoholic: Rakija, a type of brandy which can be made medicine are available in Zagreb and Split. of plum (šljivovica), grapes (loza), figs (smokovača), honey (medica) and many other types of fruit and aromaticherbs, is themain distilledbeverage served in Croa- 1.15 Work tia. Pelinkovac is a bitter herbal liquor popular in Central Croatia, but is said to resemble cough-medicine in flavor. Famous Maraschino, a liquer flavored with Marasca 1.15.1 Volunteering cherries, which are grown around Zadar, Dalmatia. Croatia is the destination of many worldwide volunteer Croatia also produces a broad palette of high quality organizations that send groups of volunteers throughout wines (up to 700 wines with protected geographic ori- the year to help with agriculture, community developgin), beers and mineral water. On the coast people usu- ment, education, animal welfare, and more. These proally serve “bevanda” with meals. Bevanda is heavy, richly grams are put together by nonprofits, community groups flavored red wine mixed with plain water. Its counterpart and volunteers to help locals improve their economy and in northern parts of Croatia is “gemišt”. This term desig- way of life. With rich cultural history and stunning coastnates dry, flavored white wines mixed with mineral water. line, Croatia is truly is the jewel of eastern Europe. If you Two popular domestic beers are “Karlovačko” and “Ožu- would like to travel to Croatia as a volunteer, visit these jsko”, but “Velebitsko” and “Tomislav pivo” have re- websites for volunteer programs, accommodations, travel ceived a semi-cult status in the recent years. It is served dates, and tours. only in some places in Zagreb and Croatia. Many wellknown European brands (Stella Artois, Beck’s, Carling, Essential Croatia Heineken and others) are made under license in Croatia. ISV Croatia Non-alcoholic: Mineral water, fruit juices, coffee (espresso, Turkish or instant), tea, Cedevita (instant mul Volunteers Centre Zagreb tivitamin drink), and drinkable yogurt. Sometimes although very rarely you may find “sok od bazge” (elderflower juice) in the continental region. Worth trying! Also, in Istria there is a drink called “pašareta” and it is a 1.16 Stay safe sparkling red drink with herbal extracts. Very sweet and refreshing! In some parts of Istria (especially south) in local basements, you can try 'smrikva' - a non alcoholic During summer make sure you use adequate SPF to prorefreshing drink made out of berries which grow on one tect yourself fromsunburn. There areno ozone holes over sort of pine tree. The taste is a bit sour but very refresh- Croatia but it’s fairly easy to burn in the sun. If this happens make sure you get out of the sun, drink plenty of ing. fluids and rehydrate your skin. The locals will often adAlcoholic drinks can't be sold or served to anyone under vise covering the burnt spot with cold yogurt bought from 18, though this rule isn't strictly enforced. the supermarket.

1.12 Drink

•

•

•

1.13 Sleep In Croatia there are 6 major types of accommodation: •

•

•

•

•

•

In case of an emergency you can dial 112 - responsible for dispatching all emergency services such as fire departments, police, emergency medical assistance and mountain rescue.

Since the hostilities ended in 1995, there remain an estimated 46.317 landmines in Croatia. However these are Apartments not to be found in areas visited by tourists. If you plan to hike consult locals before you go. The mine suspected Small private hotels areas are marked with 13.274 mine warning signs. Al Two- and three-star hotel resorts, for typical mass though mine are still problem for Croatia, it is highly untourism likely you will spot any minefields in Croatia today. Five-star luxury hotels If you find yourself in area that can be potential contaminated with mines, do not stray from marked roads or Lighthouses known safe areas. For further advice refer to Wikivoy Private islands age’s war zone safety section.

12

CHAPTER 1. CROATIA

avoid drinking the home-made wine sold in refilled plastic jugs in many local farmers’ markets as it may cause intestinal distress.

1.18 Respect Keep in mind that the 1990s were marked by ethnic conflict and the bloody and brutal war in Croatia is still a painful subject, but generally there should be no problem if you approach that topic with respect. Visitors will find that domestic politics and European affairs are everyday conversation subjects in Croatia. Visitors should avoid describing Croatia as a Balkan country, as Croats prefer to think of their country as Mediterranean and Central European, and some will take Watch out for bura wind danger signs. The bura can be offence at the word “Balkan.” Geographically, southern particularly strong in the Velebit area, where it can blow and coastal Croatia is part of the Balkans, while areas up to 200km/h andoverturnlorries. However, if thewind north of the Sava and Kupa rivers are not. is strong enough to pose a significant danger to all traf- Socially, displays of affection among the younger generafic on a road section, that section will be closed. During tion are the same as Western European standards, but the strong bura wind, avoid any activity on the sea. Accidents older generation (over 65) are still quite conservative. caused by wind occurs every year and claim tourists lives in Croatia. From sailing accidents to drownings due to When driving on rural roads, particularly when a driver has to pull in to allow you to pass, it is customary to wave high water. a thanks to the other driver by raising your hand from the Avoid strip clubs at all costs. They are often run by steering wheel. very shady characters, and often overcharge their guests. Recent cases include foreigners who were charged 2000 Most Croats will respond to “thank you” with something euros for a bottle of champagne. These clubs overcharge along the lines of “It was nothing” or “not at all” which is their customers to the extreme, and their bouncers will equivalent to the English “Don't mention it”. not have any mercy if you tell them you can't pay. You will soon find yourself in a local hospital. Using common sense is essential, but due to the nature of the clubs this 1.19 Connect may be in short supply, and you may be better advised simply to steer well clear of these clubs. 1.19.1 Telephone A mine warning sign

Abuse of LGBT people is possible in Croatia, so travelers Croatia uses the GSM 900/1800 system for mobile should avoid public displays of same-sex affection. phones. There are three providers, T-Mobile (also operates the Bonbon prepaid brand), Vip (also operates the Tomato prepaid brand)and Tele2. Over 98%of thecoun1.17 Stay healthy try’s area is covered. Since 2006 UMTS (3G) is available as well, and as of 2013 also HSDPA and LTE. If you have an unlocked phone, you can buy a prepaid SIM card No vaccinations are required when going to Croatia. for 20 kn. There have been promotions in which SIM If you're going camping or hiking in continental Croatia cards were given avay for free with newspapers (7 kn) and during summer, you should be aware of ticks and tick- sometimes even literally handed out on the street. GSM carrying diseases such as encephalitis and lyme disease . phones bundled with T-Mobile or Vip prepaid SIM cards Approximately 3 ticks in 1000 carry the virus. can be found in post offices, grocery stores and kiosks at In Eastern Slavonia (particularly around the Kopački Rit varying prices. near Osijek) wear long sleeves and take insect repellent. An alternative to using a mobile phone is Calling Cards Tap water in Croatia is perfectly safe, and in some areas considered the best in the world. However, you can still choose from several brands of excellent bottled water (Jamnica being the most popular, and Jana, several times awarded as the world’s best bottled water).

which can be found in postal offices and kiosks, there are two providers, Dencall and Hitme. You can buy cards from 25 kn.

Area Codes: When calling between cities (actually between counties) or from a mobile phone, you must dial Though the water may be some of the best in the world, specific area codes: (area code)+(phone number)

1.19. CONNECT

Zagreb (01) Split (021) Rijeka (051) Dubrovnik (020) Šibenik/Knin (022) Zadar (023) Osijek (031) Vukovar (032) Virovitica (033) Požega (034) Slavonski Brod (035)Čakovec (040) Varaždin (042)Bjelovar (043) Sisak (044) Karlovac (047) Koprivnica (048) Krapina (049) Istria (052) Lika/Senj (053) Mobile phones (091) (092) (095) (097) (098) or (099)

1.19.2 Internet ADSL is common in Croatia. A 4 Mbit connection with unlimited downloads costs 178 kn (€24) per month via T-Com and just 99 kn with some other providers like Metronet or Iskon. Cable internet is available from B.net with a wide range of speeds and prices. Internet cafés are available in all major cities. They are relatively cheap and reliable. A free Wi-Fi signal can be found virtually in every city (cafés, restaurants, hotels, some libraries, schools, colleges). Private unsecured networks have become uncommon.

1.19.3 Postal service Croatia’spostal service is generally reliable, even if sometimes a bit slow. Every city and town has a post office. Here you can find their exact locations, and here is the price list (the prices change often).

1.19.4 Television, radio and printed media HRT, the public television broadcaster, operates four channels, while the commercial networks RTL and Nova TV have two channels each. Foreign films and series are shown with sound in the original language (English, Turkish, German, Italian...) and Croatian subtitles. Only children’s programming is dubbed. Many hotels and private apartments have some channels from other European countries (mostly from Germany). Radio stations that feature English-language pop/rock music are HRT-HR 2, Otvoreni and Totalni. They all have occasional traffic reports, but only HR 2 translates them into English, German and Italian during the summer. Other nationwide stations are HRT-HR 1 (news/features), HRT-HR 3 (mostly classical music), Narodni (Croatian pop) and HKR (Catholic radio). Newspapers and magazines from Germany, Austria, Italy, France, the United Kingdom, Russia, Slovenia, Serbia and other countries areavailable in Croatia. In Zagreb and the northern coastal areas some foreign newspapers arrive on the cover date, elsewhere they are late.

13

Chapter 2

Samobor Samobor is 25km west of Zagreb, Croatia. The town has a population of 36,207, as of the 2001 census.

2.2.3 By train A train link will be reconnected to Samobor in 2010.

2.1 Understand

2.3 Get around 2.4 See 2.5 Do 2.6 Buy 2.7 Eat 2.8 Drink

Samobor main square

2.9 Sleep

Samobor is a picturesque medieval town with well preserved old lore and long tourist tradition. The prevailing architecture is that of the Baroque period. The town is also reputed to be the place where the best “kremšnite” one of Croatia’s best known cakes - are made.

•

Hotel Lavica, Ferde Livadica 5. 312-520 kuna.

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Hotel Livadic, ☎ +385 1 3365 851. €62.

•

2.2 Get in •

Samoborski Slapovi, Hamor 16, ☎ +385 1 3384 061. Hotel Garni Samobor, ☎ +385 1 3366 970.

2.2.1 By car Samobor is a short 20 minute drive from the Zagreb city center. Take the A3 towards the Slovenian border.

2.10 Connect 2.11 Go next

2.2.2 By bus Samobor is accessible by bus from Zagreb. Buses leave approximately every 15 minutes from Črnomerec terminal and every 30 minutes from Autobusni kolodvor (main bus station) and Ljubljanica terminal. 14

•

Zagreb

•

Ljubljana, Slovenia

Chapter 3

Central Croatia 3.9 Drink

Central Croatia is the north-central region of Croatia, and location of the capital.

3.10 Stay safe 3.1 Cities •

Zagreb

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Karlovac

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Krapina

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Krapinske Toplice

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Sisak

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Varaždin

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Vrbovec, a small town near Zagreb

3.11 Go next

3.2 Other destinations 3.3 Understand 3.4 Get in 3.5 Get around 3.6 See 3.7 Do •

In 2009 at the end of August, near the village of Jagnjedovec - close to Koprivnica - the multicultural festival Mnogo u Malom (a lot in a pot) is held in the summer. See the site for the 2008 website.

3.8 Eat 15

Chapter 4

Karlovac Karlovac is a city in the northwest Croatia, 45 km southwest of Zagreb with a population of approximately 60,000.

4.1 Understand The town is located at the junction of 4 rivers is stunning. Almost everyone knows Karlovac as the city on four rivers. In fact, only three flow through the very city and the fourth, the river Dobra, is a bit on the outskirts Dobra. Of course, natives will talk about the fifth river – the one made of beer. Dubovac Castle The town plan is unique as the historic town center is in the shape of a 6-point star and was constructed in the 16th century as a fortification against the invading Turks double of the back cush pink centre pocket.

•

4.2 Get in •

4.2.1 By bus Buses and trains depart frequently from Zagreb (50 minutes)

Old Town Dubovac: a fort from the 15th century, situated on one of the nearest hills. Not many activities can be found there, but you will find it natural, also natural in uncommercial way. Great view of the city. In summer some performances can be seen up there. Rivers & Beaches: Korana, Mrežnica, Kupa, Dobra. In summer river banks are turning into shy beaches and are great for whole day activities.

4.5 Do 4.2.2 By car •

A trip by car on the A1/A6 takes only about 20 minutes from Jadranski Bridge. •

4.3 Get around The best way to get around is by bicycle.

Mountain Biking. Mountain biking is recommended. Lots of preserved trails all around the city and enthusiastic bikers who'll gladly guide you. Swimming / Rafting / Kayaking. Great swimming in summer months in Karlovac rivers Korana and near by Mrežnica with rafting and kayaking.

4.5.1 Festivals

4.4 See

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There are a few museums and a fortress on Dubovac hill with great views of the town. 16

Karlovacki Dani Piva. end of August. Annual beer festival. The most crowded place at that time of summer, with various folks around. You can grab a beer and pretzel and see if there’s a music which suits you.

17

4.10. GO NEXT

•

e-mail: Karlovac Piano Festival, [email protected]. Karlovac Piano Festival is typically held in mid-summer. It consists of piano lessons and master classes with renowned piano pedagogues, concerts and International Piano Competition.

•

4.6 Buy There are not many shopping options, but there are many grocery stores.

4.7 Eat

1 Hostel Na putu, Trg bana Petra Zrinskog 17. 47000 Karlovac, ☎ +385 47296235, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: after 12:00pm, check-out: before 11:00am. Reception: 8am10pm, Monday-Sunday. Newly opened (August 2014) and first hostel/backpacker style accommodation in the city centre. Owned by an Irish/Croatian couple. Hostel Na putu currently has 20 beds in 5, 7 & 8 bed sized dorms and offers all the usual hostel extras: free linen, free wifi, free tea & coffee, fully equipped kitchen, security lockers and large common areas for socialising. €11-15. (updated Mar 2015)

4.9.2 Mid-range •

4.8 Drink •

Hotel Carlstadt. $72-80. Hotel Restaurant Zganjer, Jelaši 41, ☎ +385 47 751 200.

4.9.3 Splurge •

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Hotel Europa, Banija 161, ☎ +385 47 609 666. $128-136. Hotel Korana Srakovcic. Directly on a lake. $147175.

4.10 Go next

Karlovačko beer

Karlovac is the home of Croatia’s most famous brewery, Karlovačko, which is a must try.

4.9 Sleep 4.9.1 Budget As in the case with most of Croatia, rooms are available in private houses.

Chapter 5

Krapina 5.3 Get around

Krapina is a city in Central Croatia.

Getting around is not an issue you should be concerned by. Krapina is a very small town and you can see all the sights on foot. If you arrived by car you will have to pay for parking in the city.

5.4 See

View on Krapina

5.1 Understand Krapina is a small town in northern Croatia and also an administrative and cultural centre of Krapinsko-zagorska county. It is administrative centre of Krapinsko-zagorska county located approximately 55 km from Zagreb, Croatia’s capital. The city is first mentioned in 1193 but has Reconstruction of the Neanderthal family at Hušnjak hill even longer history. Krapina Neanderthal Museum (Muzej Krapinskih Neandertalaca) – This is where you enter a time machine and go far back into the past. You will travel to Earth’s 5.2 Get in history. Here you can find out all about the anatomy, culture and the environment of the Neanderthal. The muBy train – a railway connects Krapina and Zagreb. The seum is located in situ, in other words, on the prehistoric train ride takes from 1h 30 min up to 2 h depending on the habitat. You will learn all about Dr. Kramberger, the train category, half a dozen trains daily, most requiring a man behind the epochal discovery. The museum has all change of train in Zabok. The priceis 40 kn – ca €5 (one sorts of multimedia content so it’s a great place to visit way) with your family (your kids will love every minute). By bus – the bus leaves from Autobusni kolodvor Zagreb and the ride takes about 1h. It will cost you ca 50 kn (ca €7) 5.5 Do By car – it takes you ca 50 minutes if you use an A2 highway (exit Krapina) but it will cost you ca €10; other routeis on Zagorska magistrala (Zagreb-Zabok-Krapina). It takes longer (ca 1h 15 min) but you don't pay toll.

5.6 Buy

18

5.11. GO NEXT

5.7 Eat 5.8 Drink 5.9 Sleep Krapina doesnt have any hotel in the city. Nearest hotels are in Krapinske Toplice, 15 km from Krapina.


19

Chapter 6

Krapinske Toplice Krapinske Toplice is city the northwest Croatia, 45 km northhwest of Zagreb, well known as one of the most popular thermal spas in this part of Europe.

6.3 See •

•

6.1 Understand Krapinske Toplice is well known for its thermal spas, situated in a quiet and beautiful valley surrounded by picturesque hills of Croatian Zagorje. Croatian Zagorje is settled in the north-west part of Croatia and belongs to the middle part of Croatia. The region of Zagorje is well known for its forests, springs and culinary delicacies. Zagorje is best known for one of the most significant world localities of Neanderthals, “Hušnjakovo”, where the remains of the Krapina prehistoric man are found. Zagorje treasures numerous of historical stories and folk legends but most of all has many thermal springs which are known since the time when the Roman armies ruled this territory.

•

Krapinske Toplice has 6th best thermal water in Europe. In 2015. was opened the biggest indoor water park in Croatia. •

6.2 Get in 6.2.1 By bus There are hourly or even half-hourly buses from Zagreb throughout most of the day, the journey takes 50 minutes and costs between 40 and 50 kuna. •

6.2.2 By car A trip by car on the motorway takes only about 10 minutes from exit Zabok, or 35 minutes from exit in Zagreb. 20

Water Park Aquae Vivae: new, the biggest water park on over 18.000 m2 in Croatia with thermal water Kraneamus Krapina Neanderthal Museum: The new museum is located near theworld famous site of the Krapina Neanderthals „Hušnjakovo“ in Krapina (15 km from Krapinske Toplice). Size of 1200 m2, this is one of the most modern museums in Croatia and this part of Europe. You can expect an interesting story about life and culture of the Neanderthal man in Krapina, numerous multimedia contents and above all a unique architecture. Museum is connected with the original founding site of the Neanderthal man, on the Hušnjakovo hill. Museum The Old Village, Kumrovec: open air museum situated in Kumrovec, 15 km from Krapinske Toplice in which there are presented crafts and traditions of Croatian Zagorje between 19th and 20th century. The permanent exhibition of ethnographic and historical exhibitions are: weaving, gingerbread, pottery, blacksmith products and birthplace of Josip Broz Tito. Castle Veliki Tabor: near Desinić - 20 km from Krapinske Toplice - The first tower was built in the 12th century, other towers were built in the 15th and 16th century, and today’s look was achieved in the 1820. Most notable owners and inhabitants were the Celjski and the Ratkaj counts and the great Croatian painter Oton Iveković. Special feature of the castle is a big well which is 31 meter deep and the big rustic hall with halberds. UNESCO rated the castle in the highest category of monuments. Today castle is a museum with permanent collection. Trakošćan Castle: near Macelj, 35 km from Krapinske Toplice - Built in the 13th century and has changed several owners. Through centuries, among the owners were the Celjski counts, general Jan Vitovac, Ivaniš Korvin and sub-governor Ivan Gyulay. Sub-marshal Juraj V. Drašković renewed the castle and turned its environment into a romantic garden.

6.8. GO NEXT

Today the castle belongs to the Republic of Croatia and it’s a museum with permanent collection.

6.4 Do 6.5 Eat 6.6 Drink 6.7 Sleep 6.7.1 Budget As in the case with most of Croatia, rooms are available in private houses.

6.7.2 Splurge •

Hotel Villa Magdalena, Mirna ulica 1, ☎ +38549233333, fax: +38549233345, e-mail: [email protected] . Four stars hotel with unique accommodation - thermal water in every suite living room $147-175. (updated Jun 2015)

6.8 Go next

21

Chapter 7

Sisak

Victor Hugo

7.2 Get in Sisak is a major hub of rail, roads, and river boating.

7.2.1 By train Sisak is on Croatia’s main railway line, which travels from Zidani Most in Slovenia to Zagreb and finally to Sisak, terminating at thegrand 1880s railwaybuilding at thebottom edge of the centre of twon town. In addition to the numerous train services operate each day to Zagreb (including the new, high-speed tilt train which completes the journey in around 35 min), there are services to Novska and Rijeka. The Croatian Railways website has information on train times and tickets. The railway station is beSisak is a very important industrial and cultural city city ing renovated and modernised. Before the war there was in Croatia. It’s on three rivers: the Sava, Kupa and Odra. a railway line that ran from Sisak and Karlovac, but that The Kupa flows through the old town. Sisak has about line was destroyed during the war. 50,000 inhabitants, with a metropolitan area of about 80,000.

7.2.2 By bus

7.1 Understand

You can take the bus from Zagreb, Petrinja, Kutina, Karlovac, Munich, Frankfurt, and etc..

7.2.3 By car Sisak is the biggest river port in Croatia. You can sail to Sisak with the Victor Hugo boat that sails from Budapest, Main highways pass nearby to Sisak from Zagreb through Novi Sad, Belgrade and Slavonski Brod. to Belgrade, which is 24 kilometers northeast of Sisak. 22

23

7.4. SEE

Highway A11, which is under construction, passes from Zagreb to Sisak and will in the future be extended to the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina.

century, within the walls remains horreum - barns, built in the early 4th century.

Driving to Sisak is easy with good signposting from all directions, and there is on-street as well as lot parking in the town.

7.3 Get around The whole city has 12 districts/blocks: Centar - South, Centar - North, Centar - East, Centar - West, Zeleni Brijeg, Zibel, Tomćev put, Galdovo, Željezara, Vrbina, Naselje, Viktorovac. You can see a lot of bikes paths in the center of city, you can easily use it. Taxis serve the whole city and have colours of city, green and blue.

Siscia in Situ

7.4 See

•

Old Bridge (Stari most), the first wooden bridge on the Kupa River was built in 1862, merged the Civil and Military Sisak (left and right banks of the river Kupa). In 1934 built the brick bridge, which becomes one of the symbols of the city, and the locals call it the Old Bridge. This bridge is built from traditional materials Sisak, stone and brick. •

•

Inside of Fortress

Old Fortress, the old town is a fortress from the 16th century. Under which took place the Battle of Sisak on June 22nd 1593. The fort is a heritage site. From the Old Town to the city of Sisak is approximately two kilometers by road or mile promenade. •

Siscia in Situ, the archeological park Siscia '' in situ '' - the remains of Roman architecture. Southwestern walls with tower from the late 2nd - early 3rd

•

Sisak historic ring, next to the building of Mali Kaptol is set Sisak historic ring. Seven showcases, which are located below the floor level, presented the seven most important period multy-century history of the city of Sisak. Promenade Slavo Striegl, the promenade is the heart of the city, a place to hang out, talk, here you can refresh yourself in one of the many cafes and enjoy the view of the river. In the 18th century here were located port facilities. A walk will encounter a steam crane, near the Capitol building Mali. It is a modernized river traffic and replace manpower. The combination of river andrail transport determine the development of the city in the 20th century.

24

CHAPTER 7. SISAK

ples of architectural classicism in Sisak built 1830.g. The building is 1839 performed the first theater performance in Croatian stokavian, “Juran and Sofija” Ivan Kukuljevic Sakcinski or “Turks under Sisak”. Big Capitol is located on Ban Jelacic Square in the vicinity of the Old Bridge. Since 2009, the seat of the Diocese of Sisak. •

•

Mali Kaptol and the famous train •

Mali Kaptol ,

is one of the oldest brick house was built in the Baroque period in the late 18th century; here is located Sisak jazz club, one of the most famous jazz clubs in the world in general. Mali Kapto l away from the Old Bridge about 500 meters.

•

House Lieberman, house with a beautiful wrought iron is House Lieberman. It was built in 1856 and was owned Sisak dealer Lieberman. It is the oldest Sisak Jewish family that moved to the city in the early 19th century. His fortune and reputation acquired in the trade with grain. Palace Grga Tuskan Music School Fran Lhotka / Sisak Synagogue, in the first half of the 19th century Sisak grew from a small village in an important trade center of Croatian and attracts people from various parts of the Habsburg Monarchy. The first Jews in Sisak come as merchants. Very fast becoming an important factor of economic development of the city and thesynagogue was built between 1862 and 1890, their spiritual center. After World War II the synagogue was converted into a music school, which until now exists in this area.

7.5 Do •

•

Cathedral of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross, cathedral of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross Church Diocese of Sisak, located at Ban Jelacic Square, next to the archaeological park “Siscia in situ”. The present church was built in the first half of the 18th century. On 05 December 2009, Pope Benedict XVI, again founded Sisak Diocese under Bishop Vlado Kosic, and their former parish church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross declared the cathedral. •

Veliki Kaptol ,

is one of the most valuable exam-

Celtic Night, During the first days of September, when the moon is young, on the Promenade near the Kupa River, a natural gathering venue of citizens of Sisak and their guests, the ′Celtic Night′ happens. All along the left bank of the Kupa, on which the town centre abuts, between two bridges of Sisak, thousands of people gettogether to proudly revise a great history lesson in the open, on the river which has always meant life for thetown of Sisak. In the glow of spotlights, walking with heroes, athletes, and leaders, with rich cultural and gastronomic offer, with playful laugh of a happy child..., with magic potion served to us along the bank on the Promenade by druids and sorceresses, there are pictures on floats emerging, connected with flowing candles, accompanied by music and a voice which clarifies, reminds andrevives allthat what is property andheritage of us all, each of the pictures being related to a great historical event, each with its story and its hero. Characters from books and legends, in their costumes and very special, precious possession of memory of the town of Sisak, in the light of the candles tell the ′Celtic Night′, that, what we are going to leave to the coming generations: glorious history of the town which has broken invaders, opposed the powerful but also has left a lasting memorial in the history of the Croatian people.

7.11. GO NEXT

7.6 Buy •

There a numerous stores Mlin i Pekare, Konzum, Lonia, Interspar, Kaufland, Lidl, Billa, etc..

7.7 Eat •

Mali Kaptol, resturant. ☎ +385 (0)44 521-232

7.8 Drink •

You candrink on thepromenade, Riva caffe, Banana caffe, Zlatne godine etc..

7.9 Sleep •

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Hotel Panonija ***, the only big hotel in the city, renovated in 2007, ☎ +385 (0)44 515 600, fax: +385 (0)44 515 601, email: [], www. hotel-panonija.hr Rooms Sisak ****, modern rooms located on the new promenade in the center, ☎ +385 (0)44 540 196


25

Chapter 8

Varaždin Varaždin is one of the most important tourist centers of northern Croatia. The old town fortification, the central part of the town, numerous museums, galleries and collections as well as the Varaždin cemetery, protected as a horticultural monument, represent the main tourist attractions of this Central European Baroque town and ancient Croatian capital. Varaždin is located on the right bank of the Drava river in north-western Croatia, 79 km north of Zagreb.

Toplice were mentioned by King Bela III in a legal document. In 1209 Varaždin was declared a free royal borough by the Croatian-Hungarian King Andrew II which allowed it to develop into theeconomic andmilitary centre of northern Croatia. Due to the frequent Ottoman raids, the town was structured defensively around the old fortress, thus acquiring the shape of a typical medieval Wasserburg. As early as the 13th century the Knights Hospitaller (in Croatian Ivanovci ) came to Varaždin, where they built a church and a monastery. At the end of the 14th century the Varaždin fortress passed into the hands of the Earls of Celje. Over the following centuries Varaždin had several owners, the most influential being Beatrice Frankopan, Margrave Juraj of Brandenburg, who built the town hall; the last was Baron Ivan Ungnad, who reinforced the existing fortification. When at the end of the 16th century Count Toma Bakač Erdödy became its owner, assuming the hereditary position of Varaždin prefect ( župan), the fortress remained in the ownership of his family until 1925.

King Tomislav Square

8.1 Understand

In 1756, Ban Franjo Nadasdy chose Varaždin as his official residence turning Varaždin into the capital of all of Croatia. It hosted Croatian Sabor and the Royal Croatian Council founded by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria. Reformation and the counter-reformation left a lasting mark on Varaždin. With the arrival of the Jesuits, the school and the convent were founded. Furthermore, a number of churches and monasteries were built in the baroque style. As Varaždin was theseat of many Croatian noblemen in 1756 it became the administrative center of Croatia. However, when the great fire of 1776 destroyed most of the town, administrative institutions moved back to Zagreb. By the 19th century Varaždin had been completely rebuilt and expanded. Crafts and commerce, and later the manufacture of silk and bricks flourished resulting in the creation of the town’s theatre, music school, and fire department.

Stari grad - Old City

The first written reference to Varaždin dates back to 1181, when the nearby thermal springs Varaždinske 26

27

8.3. GET AROUND

8.2 Get in

8.3 Get around

Due to its adventageous geographic location, the town is easily accessible to many neighbouring countries.

8.4 See

8.2.1 By bus Buses are very frequent from Zagreb and take around 90 minutes - check the timetables or the Zagreb Bus Station’s website for times. Services into the neighbouring areas are quite frequent, some going over the border into Hungary. Buses also leave from other major Croatian cities almost daily for Varaždin. Online information for buses to Varaždin can be found at the Varaždin Transit website . International departures (especially for Austria, Germany, Hungary and beyond) often make a stop in the town, and if there is a later bus that day, companies normally honour a 'break of journey' to visit the town for a few hours. Note in Varaždin that the bus station is located on the Gallery of Old and Contemporary Masters - Sermage Palace western side of town, and the railway station is located on the eastern side, with a distance of around 2km between. Stari grad (Old city} is a beautiful medieval fortress. Although its construction began in the 14th century, it was greatly expanded in the 15th cen8.2.2 By car tury when the rounded towers that typify the Gothic architecture of northern Croatia were added by the Those travelling from Graz in Austria should proceed to Earl of Celje. In 1925 it was turned into Gradski Maribor taking the M3 road to Ptuj from which they can muzej ( Town museum ). Which houses paintings, cross into Croatia. furniture, weapons and decorative objects important Travellers coming from Nagykanizsa or Budapest should for the Varaždin’s history. In 1994, it was the first use the A4 motorway once they enter Croatia which conCroatian museum nominated for the European Munects Varaždin with the Hungarian border. seum of the Year Award. (Tuesday’s - Friday’s: 10 Travellers from Zagreb can use A4 motorway which will AM - 5 PM; Saturday’s and Sunday’s: 10 AM - 1 PM; Closed on Monday’s. +385 42 43-712, +385 take them to their destination in less than an hour. 42 212-918 ) •

8.2.3 By train The most scenic and cheapest (but slowest) way to get to Varaždin from Zagreb is a local train (2h20) stopping at every station between the two cities. The price of a return ticket is 80kn (roughly 10 euros), with discounts for ISIC card holders. Recently, the speed of the journey dramatically improved with the addition of a faster (though more expensive) alternative of the high-speed tilting train connection operated by Hrvatske željeznice (Croatian railways). Train services also operate north to Čakovec and Koprivnica (with further connections to Slavonia and Hungary), and there is a daily service to Split and to Budapest in Hungary. As of May 2008, the train station in Varaždin was closed for renovations. Trains still ran, but timetable information and tickets needed to be purchased elsewhere.

•

Galerija starih i novih majstora ( Gallery of Old and Contemporary Masters). Ishostedintherococostyle Sermage Palace built in 1759 and donated to the museum by the City of Čakovec in 1947. The gallery’s holdings include over 3,000 pieces. Many old masters’ works served as the basis of today’s permanent collection displaying 61 paintings from the 15th to the end of the 19th century. The most valuable pieces are those by Dutch masters from the 17th and 18th centuries as well as the portraits by both local and naturalized masters: A. Moses, M. Brodnik and M. Stroy. The gallery also holds works by the famous Croatian contemporary masters: V. Bečić, Lj. Babić, R. Frangeš-Mihanović, as well as by a number of local painters and sculptors from Hrvatsko zagorje and Međimurje. Particularly valuable are thecollections of Miljenko Stančić's andIvo Režek’s works ( Tuesday’s - Friday’s: 10 AM - 5 PM; Saturday’s and Sunday’s: 10 AM - 1 PM; Closed on

28

CHAPTER 8. VARAŽDIN

Kult, Sax and Old City Pub. Vienna is across the road from thetown theatre, Caffe Theatre is in thetheatre, Kult is 200 m from the first two bars, Sax is next to McDon Entomološka zbirka (Entomological Collection). Is ald’s, Old City Pub is about 200 m from Stancic Square. located at the early Classicist Herzer Palace in the center of the town. The first collection was established by Franjo pl. Koščec (1882-1968), the local 8.8 Sleep high-school teacher and entomologist. He donated his large natural scientific collections to the City of Hotel Turist (Aleja kralja Zvonimira 1, 42000 Varaždin in 1959. His work was, in the 1962-1980 Varaždin; telephone +38542 395-395). A3-star hoperiod, continued by his daughter Ružica Koščec. tel with 46 single rooms, 58 twin rooms and 5 suites Since 1903 some 50,000 specimens have been colof total capacity of some 100 beds. The suites and lected. The collection also includes enlarged models the rooms are equipped with a bath, TV/SAT, teleof certain insect species. Over the years, the holdphone and a mini bar. ings have been expanded by entomological material from the territory of northwestern Croatia. Its scien Hotel La'Gus (Varaždinski breg bb, 42204 Turčin; tifically valuable collections, including several tens telephone +385 42 652-940 ). A 3-star hotel located of thousand specimens, bring testimony of natural outside Varaždin. It has 26 double rooms and 2 properties and environmental changes, thus constisuites. There is a mini bar, a satellite TV set and tuting an inevitable source of information for the a direct telephone line in every room, plus a small elaboration of the Croatian fauna inventory (+385 kitchen in all the suites. 42 213-491). Motel Garestin (Zagrebačka 34, 42000 Varaždin; telephone +385 42 214-314) - a new establishment within a short walk from the bus station. Monday’s; Trg Miljenka Stancica 3; +385 42 214172).

•

•

•

•

8.5 Do

•

8.6 Buy There are numerous nice souvenirs for you to buy in Varaždin. It is best to buy them from hard working artisans that have their own corner in Varaždin. The most famous of them is a Hatter (Klobučar). Owner of a small stand full of handcrafted hats has a nickname “Herc” and it’s one of the most recognized man in town. Next to him is a hard working Blacksmith who crafts lovely souvenirs and next to him is a Tailor with tons of souvenir clothing.

8.9 Go next •

8.7 Eat Decent lunch canbe found in Zlatneruke (Golden hands). Best place for pizza and pasta is Angelus, across the street from the city park. One can find delicious pizza in Rebus, about 10 km in Kučan (dirfections have to be added). Zvonimir restaurant provides great pizzas and there are many restaurants outside of Varazdin such as Cesljas on Varazdin breg. McDonalds is i Vrazova street. Next to the McDonald’s there is Billy Kebab. The best kebap can be found in Zagtrebačka, 50 m south of the post office, and Gajeva street (same oweners). One can get pizza slices 30m from McDonald’s. There are numerous caffes in the centre. Bars with R&B music are Soho, Tiki Bar, Morgans Bar, Mea Culpa, Rock Art Caffe. Main streamalternatives can have a good time in Lavra. One can enjoy a good beer and rock music in Vienna, Caffe Theatre (formerly known az Rogoz),

Pension Maltar (Prešernova 1, 42000 Varaždin; telephone +385 42 311-100 ). Has 10 rooms (with 22 beds) so booking in advance is recommended. The website is in Croatian.

•

•

Varaždinske Toplice (Varaždin Thermal Spa) is located 12km to the south-east of Varaždin. The famous spa renowned for its warm sulphuric water were established by the Romans in the 1st century AD. These days it is a destination with a range of modern indoor and outdoor pools. Varaždinske Toplice can be reached by bus from Varažidn. The ride takes around half an hour. Trakoscan Castle is a stunning 12th-century fortified castle and one of the few from that period that are still standing in Europe. A major reconstruction was undertaken in early 19th century giving it a distinct neo-gothic look. It can be reached by bus from Varaždin (the bus fare costs 25KN). Nagykanizsa in Hungary and Graz in Austria are also just a short distance away.

Chapter 9

Vrbovec Vrbovec is in Zagreb county, Croatia, 32km northeast of Zagreb. The town has a population of 14,658, as of the 2001 census.

9.1 Understand

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Castle of Patačić.

•

Castle of Lovrečina Grad.

•

Church of Saint Vitus.

9.5 Do

Vrbovec is a born place of Ban Petar Zrinski, a Croatian hero from middle-age. For all who would like to meet with typical way of Croatian life, Vrbovec offers peaceful staying and feeling like at home.

•

NK Vrbovec Football. A member of third division of the Croatian Soccer League.

9.5.1 Festivals

9.2 Get in

•

Kaj su jeli naši stari. June 15. Traditional festival of cooking of old specialities from the past

9.2.1 By car

9.6 Buy

Well connected by the A4 highway, then by D28 expressway, it takes only 25 minutes by car from Zagreb.

9.7 Eat 9.2.2 By train

9.8 Drink

It takes 35-45 minutes by train from main train station in Zagreb.

9.9 Sleep 9.2.3 By bus

9.10 Connect

It takes 45 minutes by bus from main bus-station in Zagreb.

9.11 Go next

9.3 Get around 9.4 See •

•

Mausoleum of family De Piennes (in the local cemetery). Tower of Petar Zrinski. 29

Chapter 10

Zagreb 10.2.1 By plane •

1 Franjo Tuđman Airport ( Zagreb International Airport ) (in the locality of Pleso in 17 Km south-east (updated Sep 2016) from the city centre ).

Flights •

Ban Jelačić Square

Zagreb is a city in Central Croatia and the capital of Croatia. •

10.1 Understand

•

Zagreb is a vibrant city of around 800,000 people (metropolitan area: 1,200,000). The city boasts a charming medieval 'old city' with architecture and cobbled streets reminiscent of Vienna, Budapest, Prague and other Central-European capitals. In 2005 it was visited by over half a million tourists, mainly from Austria, Germany and Italy.

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•

•

10.1.1 Tourist Information • •

1 Turistički informativni centar (Tourist Information Centre - Ban Jelacic Square ), Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11. Mo-Fr 8:30-21:00; Sa-Su 09:00-18:00. (updated Sep 2016)

•

Other information points are located at the airport, bus station, railway station and at the Lotrščak Tower.

Lufthansa flies several times a day to Munich and Frankfurt, and low-cost carrier German Wings flies to and from Cologne, Stuttgart, Hamburg and Berlin (Schönefeld). Austrian operates many flights to Vienna each day. TAP Portugal flies from Zagreb to Lisbon three times a week (Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays) via Bologna in Italy. Iberia operates flights to Madrid from Summer 2009. SAS operates flights to Stockholm. - but this service is currently suspended since mid-2009 Air France operates flights to Paris-Charles de Galle. Aeroflot flies to Moscow.

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flyDubai flies to Dubai.

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•

30

THY-Turkish Air Lines flies to/from Istanbul daily

•

•

10.2 Get in

Croatia Airlines, the national carrier and member of Star Alliance, flies to Amsterdam, Athens, Barcelona, Brussels, Copenhagen, Düsseldorf, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Moscow, Munich, Paris, Podgorica, Pristina, Tel Aviv, Rome, Sarajevo, Skopje, Vienna, Zurich. Domestically, Croatia Airlines operates numerous flights to Split, Dubrovnik, Zadar, Osijek (seasonal) and Pula.

KLM flies to Amsterdam. Air Serbia flies to Belgrade. LOT flies to Warsaw (resumes 2 January 2016).

31

10.2. GET IN

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Qatar Airlines flies to Doha.

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TradeAir flies to Osijek, Rijeka.

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Vueling flies to Barcelona (seasonal).

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AirFrance flies to Paris.

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Air Transat flies to Toronto (begins 15 June 2016) (seasonal).

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British Airways

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Brussels Airlines

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EL AL Israel Airlines

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Emirates

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Eurowings

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Korean Air

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Monarch

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Norwegian

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Sundor

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Swiss

Neighboring airports in Rijeka, Ljubljana, Graz, Klagenfurt and Trieste are serviced by low-cost carriers and are often a viable alternative to travelling directly to Zagreb. EasyJet flies to Rijeka, Ljubljana and Ryan Air flies to Pula,Graz and Klagenfurt. Airport facilities •

Restaurant, cafe, bars

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Post

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Bank, ATMs

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Limited Free Wifi, or Paid accessto the Internet (via terminal) Numerous car renting outlets Open 24 hours with 6 cots on the upper level outside security if you need to sleep in the airport

Ground transportation to/from airport •

from the bus station towards the airport, the buses are scheduled between 04:30 and 20:30. A journey takes approx. 30 min. Single 30 Kn; Return (on day) 40 Kn. (updated Jan 2017)

10.2.2 By bus •

1 Autobusni Kolodvor Zagreb (Zagreb Bus Terminal ), Av. Marina Držića 4 ( to the south-east of the railway station - approximately 10 minutes walk, or 3 stops by tram (lines 2 and 6) ), ☎ +385 1 6112 789. Timetable information andprices can be found at the AKZ website. Numerous Croatian and International coach operators maintain scheduled lines covering all major domestic and European cities. (updated Sep 2016)

International destinations are as far as London, Paris, Rotterdam and Amsterdam, numerous cities in Germany, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Slovenia, Hungary, many destinations in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, and Macedonia. Direct buses from Budapest, Hungary to Zagreb by Eurobusways. •

Left luggage (at the arrival terminal № 106 ). 24/7. For baggage up to 15 Kg: 5 Kn per piece per hour up to 4 hour, afterwards 2.5 Kn; otherwise 10 Kn per hour. (updated Sep 2016)

10.2.3 By train •

1 Zagreb Glavni kolodvor (Main railway station ) (close to the main bus terminal ). There are direct services to major European cities such as Vienna (6 hours), Budapest (6.5 hours, one way approx. 9,000 HUF), Zurich, Munich, Salzburg, Ljubljana, Sarajevo (one-way ticket costs 59 BAM), Belgrade as well as domestic services to all major towns (except Dubrovnik). There is also an all-year-round overnight train (with sleeping compartments) between Zagreb and Split (6 hours). (updated Sep 2016)

As for the local destinations, then despite of introduction of new “tilting trains” (up to 160 Km/h) connecting Zagreb with Split and other major cities in Croatia such as Varaždin, Osijek and Požega. Trains are not everywhere fast in the country. A journey to Split takes approx. 6 hours while by bus it takes about 5 hours, while other destinations along the coast practically are not reachable by train.

Pleso prijevoz (At the main bus station, airport buses leave from its northeast wing (toward the city)—look for “Croatia Airlines” and “Eurolines” banners on the building.), ☎ +385 1 6331-982, email: [email protected]. Buses leave the airport at 07:00 and every 30 minutes between 08:00 and 20:00. Beyond these hours, there are Tourists coming from or going to neighbouring capitals buses leaving for the bus station every time a Croa- should note the following EuroCity and InterCity as well tia Airlines plane lands. In the opposite direction, as EuroNight railway lines:

32

CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB

Those travelling from Italy can bypass the expensive motorway toll in Slovenia by using the state route SS21 through Trieste, route E61 through Slovenia (in a bad shape) and then A7 south to Rijeka, then Rijeka bypass, then A6 east to Bosiljevo and A1 northeast to Zagreb. Travellers heading from the south - Dalmatian coast (Zadar, Split, Dubrovnik, ...) or from Montenegro - can use the A1 highway, often combined with the state roads D8 (by the coastline) and D1 (through the hinterland). To use highways in Croatia you must pay a toll either in Croatian national currency, the Kuna, or in Euro. One may also pay by credit card- American Express, Diners, MasterCard, Maestro or Visa cards. A third option is to use the HAC Smart Card, which can reduce the cost Glavni kolodvor - Zagreb’s Main Railway Station of travelling on the Croatian highways by 10-25%. It is issued by Hrvatske Autoceste, but pays off only if travel EC “Mimara": Frankfurt - Heidelberg - Stuttgart - ling more than 500 km (that’s a return trip Zagreb-Zadar Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb or Zagreb-Serbia) or 250 km for a seasonal Smart Card (a return trip Zagreb-Rijeka or two return trips to Zagreb EC “Croatia": Vienna - Maribor - Zagreb, also by from Austrian border). You can find a toll calculator here EuroNight train (click Calculator on the left navigation bar). IC “Kvarner": Budapest - Zagreb •

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B “Lisinski": Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb

10.3 Get around

B “Zürichsee": Zurich - Innsbruck - Ljubljana - Zagreb - Belgrade, also by EuroNight train

?'"ÙNIQ--maplink-00000002-QINU`"'? Map of Zagreb EC “Sava": Munich - Salzburg - Ljubljana - Zagreb Zagreb has a well-developed and efficient public trans- Belgrade

The most of the services are operated by the Croatian Railways. EuroNight trains can be booked via ÖBB (Austrian railways), DB (German railways) or SBB (Swiss railways), or any other ticketing agency by phone.

10.2.4 By car Almost all highways (motorway; autocesta in Croatian) in Croatia start or end in Zagreb. Travellers from Vienna canpassby Graz and Maribor and then take the A2 highway upon entering Croatia. Mind Zagreb Tram the toll in Slovenia. Travellers from Budapest can pass by Székesfehérvár and then use the Croatian A4 motorway. It also connects Varaždin. You will have to pay toll from shortly after entering Croatia until shortly before reaching Zagreb. Travellers heading from Serbia, Bulgaria, Macedonia, Greece and Turkey can use the Croatian A3 motorway to reach Zagreb. Travellers heading from Ljubljana can use the A3. Travellers coming from the west - Italy, as well as Rijeka or Istria - can use the A7 motorway (near and bypass- Zagreb Bus ing Rijeka), A6 motorway (Rijeka-Bosiljevo) and then the A1 (Bosiljevo-Zagreb). port system that consists of trams, buses and trains.

33

10.3. GET AROUND

10.3.2 Bus As for the buses, there are 138 day-time and 4 night lines. ZET buses cover the area outside the city center, as well as some neighboring towns that administratively belong to Zagreb county. The buses use the same ticketing system as the trams.

10.3.3 Funicular A historic funicular railway ( uspinjača in Croatian), one of thesteepest andshortest in theworld, operates between the lower and upper towns with a travel time of just one minute. Monthly, daily as well as single tram/bus ticket can be used, otherwise there is a 4 kn ticket for a ride. The funicular operates every 10 minutes, for a fee of 20 kn (in addition to regular tickets for everyone on board) an immediate start can be purchased.

10.3.4 Trains Funicular Railway

Trains operated by Croatian Railways (Hrvatske Željeznice) run every 15 minutes from east to west, connecting the suburbs of Zagreb with the central railway station. They are usually the quickest form of transport for those coming from the areas of Zagreb far from the railway station (Glavni kolodvor), or beyond the tram network.

10.3.5 Ticketing System

Suburban Railway

10.3.1 Tram

As of October 2013 (price list of 01-Oct-2013 in Croatian), the price of a single one-zone ticket valid for 1.5 hours in one direction is 10 Kuna (~ 1.3 €), between midnight and 4 AM 15 Kuna. The different prices when buying at the driver or the kiosk or using the electronic ticket (E-vrijednosna karta) have been removed. The ticket can only be paid in the local currency Kuna. There is also a day ticket (dnevna karta), valid until 4 AM of the next day, available at 30 Kuna (~ 4 €). For longer stays there are tickets available for 3 (70 kn, ~ 9 €), 7 (150 kn, ~ 20 €), 15 (200 kn, ~ 26 €) and 30 days (400 kn, ~ 52 €). Buy a ticket and stamp it (insert it) in the little orange machine once you enter to validate. All single tickets are transfer tickets valid in multiple vehicles travelling in a single direction, so you won't need a new ticket when switching trams and/or buses. Tariff zone system exists, but only for townships and communities outside of Zagreb city limits, all trams are in zone 1, as well as buses in the City of Zagreb. If you plan on taking more than two rides, buy a daily ticket.

The tram network (route map) operates 24 hours a day from 4AM to 12AM there are 15 “day-time lines” (tram lines 1-9, 11-15 and 17), and from 12AM to 4AM there are 4 “night” lines (tram lines 31-34) which cover most of the day-time lines on a reduced (around 30-40 minute) frequency. Occasionally, buses replace trams on night lines. Tram lines 1, 3, and 8 do not operate Saturdays, Sundays and on public holidays. There are maps of the 10.3.6 Zagreb Card tram lines on almost every stop, so if you know the nearest stop to your destination you can simply figure out the Travelers who intend to visit many museums should conshortest trip while you're at the stop. sider buying the Zagreb Card . The card offers unlimited

34 travel on public transport in Zagreb, discounts at virtually all of the city’s museums, reduced prices at many restaurants, shops, and service providers and many other concessions. As of September 2013, it costs 60 kuna (approx. €8) for 24 hours or 90 kuna (approx. €12) for 72 hours from thedate andtime entered on thecard. Holders of the card also receive a special booklet with a list of all of the establishments and the discounts available to them. The card can be purchased at any of Zagreb’s Tourist Information Centers, at the reception desks of the majority of Zagreb’s hotels, and ordered online (shipping cost is added).

10.3.7 Bicycle Since 01-Jun-2013 there are automated public bicycle rental stations in Zagreb. It started with a three-month pilot period during which approx. 50 bikes were available at 6 stations in the city centre: at the main train station; in front of the Technical Museum at Savska Street; at the intersection of Petrinjska and Amruševa; at the intersection of Gundulićeva and Varšavska; in front of the National University Library; at Šubićeva Street at the green market on Kvaternik Square. The pilot was successful, three more stations have already been added, one of them in Novi Zagreb next to the Avenue Centar Mall at the tram/bus stop museum of contemparary art (muzej suvremene umjetnosti). Payment can only be made with credit or debit cards from VISA, MasterCard und Diners, in addition a mobile phone (can also be foreign) is required. The registration at nextbike Zagreb is free, account activation requires transferral of 79 kn (~ 11 €), which can be completely be used for bike rental. As of September 2013 there are two tariffs: In the standard tariff, which does not cost a monthly fee, per day the first half hour is free of charge, then each started hour costs 8 kn (~ 1,30 €) up to a maximum of 5 hours (including the free first half hour), a longer rental costs a flat fee of 79 kn (~ 11 €) up to a total of 24 hours. Warning: If a bike is not returned to a station no longer than 24 hours after it was removed, a late fee of 750 kn (~ 110 €) is charged! The nextbike tariff costs a monthly fee of 20 kn (~ 3 €), for that on each rental process (even several times per day) the first 30 minutes are free, the next up to 4.5 hours are only 4 kn (~ 0,60 €) each, and the flat fee for rentals between 5 and 24 hours is reduced to 39 kn (~ 5,60 €). Even here if the bike isn't returned after no more than 24 hours the late fee of 750 kn (~ 110 €) is charged. A customer card for easier rental (instead of using a smartphone app or activation SMS) cost a one-time 20 kn (~3 €) fee.

10.3.8 Walks Zagreb is a compact city and can be best explored by walking. For the lower town (Donji Grad) the six squares

CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB

of Lenuci Horshoe and the Botanical Garden can be covered in about 2 - 3 hours of walking. This area is also the home of Zagreb’s major museums, galleries and theatres. The upper town (Gornji Grad) can also be covered in about 2 - 3 hours of walking and includes the Cathedral, St. Mark’s Church and Square and the Museum of Broken Relationship.

10.3.9 Taxi There are three taxi companies in Zagreb: •

•

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Radio Taxi Zagreb phone: 1777. Starting rates as of January 2012 are fixed at 9.90 kn (~1,25 €), the price per kilometer is 4.90 kn/km (~0.7 €/km), waiting by the hour is 40 kn/h (~5,5 €/h) and an additional fee for luggage is charged (3 kn per piece (0,4 € per piece of luggage)). Taxis are readily available at the Pleso international airport. Taxis are obliged to have their taxi-meter on and you won't fare well if you try to bargain. Taxi Cammeo phone: 1212. Starting rate is HRK 15 (about €2) and includes 2 free kilometres. The price for every next kilometre is 5 HRK(€0,7). Due to regulations, they are not able to pick up customers at the Pleso Airport. Ekotaxi phone: 060 77 77. Start 8.80 kn, 5 kn per kilometre.

10.4 See The city of Zagreb is mainly divided into two parts Gornji grad (Upper Town) and Donji grad (Lower Town). They are the cultural, religious, and commercial hubs of Zagreb. These are where most of the restaurants, bars and tourist sights are located. The Upper Town, which is the medieval core of the city, developed as two separate (and often warring) towns - Kaptol , the seat of the Bishop (where the imposing Cathedral now stands), and Gradec , the free town where tradesmen and artisans lived (proclaimed by King Bela of Hungary in the 12th century) merged in the 1770s to form the northern section of historic Zagreb. Following this, the city expanded south of today’s Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića (Jelačić Square) to the railway station and the Sava River. Apart from the two main parts the City of Zagreb extended both is North - South and East - West. The Northern part consists of the mountains and wilderness while the Southern part extends beyond the River Sava and cosists of modern Zagreb and is known as Novi Zagreb. So Zagreb can be classified under four areas: •

Upper Town (Gronji Grad)

35

10.4. SEE

St. Catherine’s Church

Zagreb Cathedral

Old Stone Gatel

mark of the city. The original cathedral dates back to 1217 but the present structure dates back to 1906. The chief architect was Hermann Bollé. Free. (updated Jul 2015) •

St. Mark’s Church •

•

•

Lower Town (Donji Grad)

•

Northern Zagreb New Zagreb (Novi Zagreb) •

10.4.1 Gornji Grad (Upper Town) Churches and Religious Structures: •

1 Zagreb Cathedral (Kaptol ). The Zagreb Cathedral with its twin spires is the most well known land-

1 St. Mark’s Square (Crkva sv. Marka) (St. Mark’s Square ). Located at the centre of St. Mark’s Square, St. Mark’s Church is known for its colourful roof tiles depicting the coat of arms of Croatia and Zagreb. St. Mark’s Church was constructed in 1499. Free. (updated Jul 2015) 1 St. Catherine’s Church (Crkva sv. Katarine ), St. Catherine’s Square (Upper Town). Baroque style church 1 OldTown Gate, at the top of Radićeva street (Upper Town). now a shrine to virgin Mary - the “Kamenita vrata” where you can light a candle and, as the locals believe, your wish will be granted. Please be silent, even if just passing through the Gate. The portrait of Mary is said to be sacred, because it is the only thing that survived the large fire. Near the OldTown Gate is the sculpture of St. George having

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CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB

Pavilion at Botanical Garden

Museum of Broken Relationship

Mimara Museum

Klovićevi Dvori Galleryl

Archaeological Museum

Parks: King Tomislav’s Statue at King Tomislav’s Squarel •

slain the dragon. The other statue, him fighting the dragon, is located on the Marshal Tito’s Square near the Croatian National Theatre (roughly 1 km away).

1 Ribnjak Park ( Next to Zagreb Cathedral, Kaptol ). the Ribnjak is an English-style park complete with exotic plants, sculptures, and a children’s playground. The park was originally the site of Bishop’s fish pond.

37

10.4. SEE

Art Pavilion

Grounded Sun

Croatian National Theatre

Entrance to Mirogoj cemetery Museum of Contemporary Art

tive museum in Europe. Admission fee: 25kn. Museums: Most museums and historical sights close at 1PM on Sundays and do not reopen until Tuesday. •

1 Museum of Broken Relationships (Muzej prekinutih veza), Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 2, ☎ +38514851021, e-mail: [email protected]. every day from 9AM to 9PM (from October till May), during summer time from 9AM to 10:30PM (from June till September). What remains after a break-up? Museum’s permanent display is an opportunity to experience a unique emotional journey through dozens of love leftovers collected from all around the world. Museum is also the winner of Kenneth Hudson Award 2011 for the most innova-

•

1 Klovićevi Dvori Gallery (Galerija Klovićevi Dvori ), Jezuitski trg 4 (Upper town, close to funicular (uspinjača) and stone gate (kamenita vrata). Bus line 150 (except Sunday) from Trg bana Josipa Jelačića, exit Kamenita vrata or Markov try; back to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića enter at Katarinin trg. ), ☎ +385-1-485-1926. Tue-Fri 11:00-19:00, Mon and holidays closed. This gallery in the old Jesuit monastery with changing exhibitions introduces Croatian and foreign cultural and artistic heritage across all eras. In most exhibitions, photography without flash is permitted. around 30 Kuna, varies by exhibition. (updated Apr 2015)

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+385 1-4844-002. (updated Jan 2017) •

•

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Ariel View of Jarun Lake

1 Mažuranić Square. The central square of the western wing of LenuciHorseshoe. It is named after Croatian poet Ivan Mažuranić 1 Marulić Square. Marulić Square is the South Western square of Lenuci Horseshoe. It houses the Croatia State Archive. It also has a statue of Marko Marulić. 1 Square of Maršal Tito (Trg maršala Tita ). One of the largest and greenest squares of Zagreb. It is located on the North Western corner of Lenuci Horseshoe. It has the Croatian National Theatre in its centre.

Museums: Most museums and historical sights close at 1PM on Sundays and do not reopen until Tuesday. •

Bundek Lake

10.4.2 Donji Grad (Lower Town) Parks: Other city parks are connected in the “Lenuci Horseshoe”, an unfinished project of combining small green squares and parks at the core of the center of the town. •

1 Strossmayer Square (Strossmayerov trg). Named after Josip Juraj Strossmayer, politician and Roman Catholic Bishop, the Strossmayer Square occupies thecentral position of theeastern wing of theLenuci Horseshoe. (updated Jan 2017) •

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1 Zrinjevac Square ( just south - east of the main square ). the park of the Academy (connecting the Zrinjevac and Tomislav parks). 1 King Tomislav Square (Trg kralja Tomislava ) (south of Zrinjevac, just outside the main Train Station). King Tomislav Square is the square overlooking the main railway station (Glavni Kolodvor) of Zagreb. Decorated with floor beds and fountains and lined with trees it is dominated by a horse mounted statue of King Tomislav. (updated Jan 2017) 1 Botanical Gardens ( Botanički vrt ) ( south of the K. Tomislav Square, near the Hotel Esplanade ), ☎

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1 Muzej Mimara (Mimara Museum), Trg Franklina Delanoa Roosevelta 5, e-mail: [email protected]. Tue-Wed,Fri-Sat 10AM5PM; Thu 10AM-7PM; Sun 10AM-2PM. Houses some 3,700 works of art donated by Ante Topić Mimara. The collection comprises more than 1,500 exhibits dating from the prehistoric period up to the 20th century. Some of the most famous exhibits include works by Lorenzetti, Raffaello, Giorgione, Veronese, Caravaggio, Canaletto, 60 paintings by the Dutch masters Rembrandt, Van Goyen, Ruisdael, 50 works by the Flemish masters Van der Weyden, Bosch, Rubens, Van Dyck, more than 30 by the Spanish masters Velasquez, Murillo, Goya, some 20 paintings by the German masters Holbein, Liebermann, Leibl, some 30 paintings by the English painters Gainsborough, Turner, Bonington and more than 120 paintings by the French masters Georges de la Tour, Boucher, Chardin, Delacroix, Corot, Manet, Renoir, Degas. 1 ArchaeologicalMuseum (Arheološki Muzej ) , Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19, ☎ +385 1-4873-101. Possesses over 400,000 objects, not all of them being exhibited. The holdings include evidence of Croatian presence in this area as well as rare samples which have made the museum known to the whole world. The most famous are the Egyptian collection, the Zagreb mummy and bandages with the oldest Etruscan inscription in the world (Liber Linteus Zagrabiensis), as well as the numismatic collection. A part of the museum is set aside for the collection of stone monuments dating back predominantly to the Roman period. (updated Jan 2017) 1 Art Pavilion in Zagreb ( Umjetnički paviljon u zagrebu), Trg Kralja Tomislava 22 ( tram stations

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10.4. SEE Glavni kolodvor (lines 2, 4, 6, 9, 13) or Zrinjevac (lines 6, 13) ), ☎ +385 1-487-6487, +385 1-4841070, e-mail: [email protected]. TueThu 11:00-20:00, Fri 11:00-21:00, Sat-Sun 11:0020:00, Mon + holidays closed, closed between exhibitions. Designed by the Hungarian architects Korb and Giergl for the Millennium Exhibition 1896 in Budepest, its iron frame was transported to Zagreb after the exhibition, where the permanent pavillion was built by the famous Viennese designers of theatres in Central Europe Hellmer and Fellmer. It is a neo-classical exhibition complex and one of the landmarks of the city center. The exhibitions are also held in the impressive Meštrović pavilion on Trg žrtava fašizma. Current exhibition: Auguste Rodin - Rodin in Meštrović's Zagreb (until 20-Sep2015), showing 55 large and small sculptures, 2 paintings and 10 scetches by Rodin and 10 early photographs of Rodin’s work by then-famous photographers. Photography is not permitted by order of the Rodin museum in Paris despite the fact that Rodin’s work is now in the public domain. adults 40 Kn, reduced 30 Kn, family (2 adults, 2 children) 130 Kn. (updated May 2015) •

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1 Croatian National Theatre ( Hrvatsko Narodno Kazalište ), Trg Kralja Tomislava 22 ( Located at the centre of Marshal Tito Square ), ☎ +385-1-4888 418, e-mail: [email protected]. Croatian National Theatre, Zagreb is located at the centre of Marshal Tito Square. It is built in 1895. There are also Croatian National Theatres in Split, Rijeka, Osijek, Varaždin and Zadar.

10.4.3 Northern Zagreb •

•

1 Moderna Galerija (Modern Gallery), Hebrangova 1. Comprises allrelevant fine artists of the19th and 20th centuries. People and Art House Lauba (Kuća za ljude i umjetnost Lauba), Prilaz baruna Filipovića 23a. Every day from 3PM to 11PM. Presents works from the Filip Trade Collection, a large private collection of modern and contemporary Croatian art and current artistic production. 1 Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej ), Savska cesta 18. http://tehnicki-muzej.hr/hr/muzej/ vrijeme/. Has a lot of technical inventions, fire engines, a cabinet of Nikola Tesla, a planetarium and an underground mine. 20kn (cca. US$4, €3).

Street Architecture: •

model of the Sun, with 9 planets of the solar system in their scaled size compared to this Sun. Mercury is in Margaretska street, a couple of hundred meters to the west, turn right after reaching Cvjetni trg, you should see it on the wall to the right after passing a dozen or so meters. Venus is on the pole of the building with Hypo bank on the Ban Jelačić Square. Earth is in Varšavska street to the left. For other models, click the link of the sculpture above.

1 The Grounded Sun (Prizemljeno Sunce), Bogovićeva Street 6 (Head south from the Ban Jelačić square to the Dubrovnik hotel, then turn right into the Bogovićeva street. You can't miss it. ). Prizemljeno sunce by Ivan Kožarić is a 1971 sculpture, a 2 meter wide bronze sphere, which represents the scale

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1 Maksimir Park & Zagreb Zoo (tram #7 if you are coming from the Central Bus Station or trams #11 and #12 from the main square or the #4 of your coming from therailway station ). Thebiggest park in Zagreb. Great place to chill out, drink coffee, eat lunch (picnic or at the park’s restaurant) or take nice long walks through the forest or by the small lakes. Good for joggers, cyclists, also child and dog friendly. Offers lake rowing. The 85-year old zoo has red pandas. 1 Mirogoj Cemetery, ☎ +385 1-4696-700. Mirogoj is the central cemetery of Zagreb. It was opened in 1876 north of the city center. The mortuary, the impressive and picturesque arcades with the church of Christ the King (architect H. Bollé, 1883-1914) make it one of the most impressive cemeteries in the world. Here stand the tombs of notable personalities (including that of basketball hero Drazen Petrovic) who are relevant to Croatian history. To arrive from the central square, go to the nearby Cathedral and take bus number 106 (Kaptol - Mirogoj - Krematorij). The ride takes approximately 10 minutes. Note: the Croatian Day of the Dead is on November 1st. You may find the sight of hundreds of thousands of candles after nightfall impressive and worth seeing, but you may take note that on that day and a few preceding and following days the cemetery will be very busy and quite different from usual peaceful appearance; on those days buses to the cemetery are very frequent but crowded. (updated Jun 2015) 1 Medvednica and Medvedgrad. The imposing mountain overlooking Zagreb (Medvednica) contains a preserved fortress (Medvedgrad) and fascinating views of the city. Being respectful in the fort is a good idea, since it is the site of the Altar of the Homeland memorial, dedicated to Croatian soldiers who died in the Homeland war. There are several historical festivals during the year, including knights tournaments. (updated Jun 2015) (updated Jul 2015)

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10.4.4 Novi Zagreb Lakes Zagreb has two very popular lakes: •

1 Jarun (at the south part of the city. Tram #5 or #17 ). Jarun Lake is a recreational area based around a large lake where locals go to relax, exercise - and party! The centerpiece of the area is the actual lake itself, which is used for windsurfing and has a large rowing section with spectator stands. There are also shingle beaches surrounding the water, alongside which are several bars that get very busy during the weekends but are also nice for a sunny lunchtime snack. All the bars there are considered 'fancy' places and usually play commercial music.

10.5.1 Cinemas •

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1 Bundek. hosts horticultural shows, firework festivals, workshops, concerts and music festivals (mostly during the summer).

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1 Museum of Contemporary Art (Muzej Suvremene Umjetnosti ), Avenija Dubrovnik 17 (South of Bundek Lake), ☎ +385 1-6052-700, +385 16052-701, +385 1-6052-798, e-mail: [email protected]. Follows and presents contemporary trends in fine arts. 30 kuna. (updated Jan 2017) 1 Croatian Museum of Naïve Art (Hrvatski Muzej Naivne Umjetnosti ), Sv. Ćirila i Metoda 3. Houses more than one thousand works belonging to Croatian naïve art.

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10.5 Do •

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Strossmayerovo šetalište. (eng. Strossmayer’s walkway) In the summer, it is an outdoor scene for painters, musicians and other artists offering food, drinks, performances and concerts. Popular meeting place for all ages, with a great view of the Lower Town. Snow Queen Trophy. Ladies Night Slalom : Zagreb is the only capital in the world that hosts a Ski World Cup race. The slalom event - known as the “Snow Queen Trophy” (Snježna kraljica) - usually takes place in January. It is the most expensive race on the women’s world cup tour and an exceptionally popular sporting event in Croatia that attracts a crowd of around 25 thousand people. As of 2007 best skiers in men’s competition are also expected to compete on Mount Sljeme that overlooks the city. If you fail to secure your ticket, you can watch the whole event on a giant screen in the Ban Jelačić Square.

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Most English-language movies are subtitled, not dubbed; only children’s movies are dubbed. A ticket will cost you 20-33 HRK (2,7-€4,4) About 30 HRK is the combined price of a medium popcorn and cola. CineStar Zagreb, Branimirova 29, ☎ +385 1 4686-600 (ticket reservation). A multiplex cinema (13 screens) in the vicinity of the Sheraton Hotel. The website is in Croatian, but can be understood using a Croatian-English online dictionary. CineStar Novi Zagreb, Avenue Mall, Avenija Dubrovnik 16. A multiplex cinema (9 screens) in the vicinity of the Museum of Contemporary Art. CineStar Arena IMAX (the only IMAX movie theatre in Croatia), Lanište 32 (west from Arena Zagreb). Located in a large mall. Cineplexx Centar Kaptol, Nova Ves 11, ☎ +385 1 56-33-888. A multiplex cinema (5 screens) within the Kaptol Shopping Center situated to the north of the Cathedral. Cineplexx City Center one East, Slavonska Avenija 11D, ☎ +385 1 563-2400. A multiplex cinema (7 screens) located on the east side of Zagreb. Kino Europa, Varšavska 3. - this cinema is located in the city center. Kino Croatia, Katančićeva 3; +385 1 48-13-711. Kino Jadran, Ilica 42; 062-100-100 (within Croatia). Kino Central, Petrinjska 4; 062-100-100 (within Croatia). Kino Tuškanac. Showing much more than just European filmography, alternative and older films, sometimes for free, usually costs about 10 HRK (€1.50)

10.6 Learn The University of Zagreb combined with the Croatian Heritage Foundation Matica Hrvatska offers comprehensive Croatian language courses for foreigners. The courses occur in the fall and spring semesters along with an intensive one month course in July. All courses cost around €600. More information can be found by visiting the University’s website.

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10.9. EAT

Many universities in Croatia accept a small group as international students every year, who stay in dorms and learn Croatian. FER (Fakultet elektrotehnike i računarstva , trans. Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Computing) is a globallyappreciated school of computer related learning. It is part of the University of Zagreb and accepts around ten international students a year.

10.7 Work

10.8.2 Foreign books •

Algoritam, Gajeva 1.

•

Profil Megastore, Bogovićeva 7.

10.9 Eat Tobacco smoking is banned in all enclosed public spaces, including restaurants and some (but not all) bars and cafes. The smaller bars / cafes could opt (and some did) to allow smoking.

For creative types, Croatia is occupied bysome street performers and many stands selling jewelery or other handcrafted products, so the populace has an open mind to 10.9.1 Budget casually buying things from an interesting stand near the main square or dropping a few coins into a musician’s There are many take out, pizza-cut, sandwich bars and case. fast foods around the city. Most are located in the city center (main square - Ban Jelačić and surrounding blocks). There are also food chains such as the “McDonald’s”, “Daily Fresh”, “Mlinar”, “Pan Pek”, and the 10.8 Buy preferred “Dubravica”. Sandwich prices around the city varies from 10 to 20 kuna. You can also find many kebabs There are many small grocery stores around Croatia such and pancake-to-go places. as Konzum and Diona. There you can buy most necessary foods, hygiene products and items like cigarettes and al American Doughnut, Teslina St. A sandwich bar cohol. If you have a more specific need (like appliances, that also serves salads and deserts. cutlery) or wish to go bulk shopping then try one of the larger Konzums, Kaufland or Mercator. Bread in Croatia Baschiera 2, Selska cesta 215 (On the end of Savska is sold unsliced and is generally inedible after the secstreet and beginning of Horvaćanski zavoj ), ☎ +385 ond day of life, so if you don't eat bread much then ask 1 3698-999. Pizza. for half a loaf “pola”. Most brands that you likely know from home, like Nutella or M&M’s, can be found in the Bonita, Flower Square. Popular sandwich bar that larger stores but are rather expensive. Trying a domestic also serves pancakes and hot wine in the winter. alternative or knock-off is not a bad idea. •

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Zagreb also has designated areas, the singular being a “platz”, where you can buy and barter for clothes and shoes as well as perfume, chocolate and souvenirs. Illegally imported cigarettes are also often sold for cheap there (because of high importation taxes).

10.8.1 Souvenirs •

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Turistički Informativni Centar, Trg bana Josipa Jelačića 11 ( in the central squar ). Sells everything ranging from postcards and books to pottery and crystal GEA Gallery, Radićeva Street 35. a wide range of souvenirs that are handmade in Croatia and are very reasonably priced. Very knowledgeable staff. Millennium, Radiceva 9 (off Jelacic square ). Pottery, crystal, costume jewelery, and other gifts.

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Colonia, Božidara Magovca 21 ( In New Zagreb, in Mamutica), ☎ +385 1 6698-153. Pizza. Dvojka, Nova Ves2 (On Kaptol close to Centar Kaptol ), ☎ +385 1 4817-462, +385 1 4666-111. Pizza. Gigi, Petrovaradinska 39, ☎ +385 1 3885-092. Be sure to visit this pizzeria if you're going to the Jarun lake. Karijola, Kranjčevićeva 7, ☎ +385 1 3667-044. Pizza. Koykan World Food, Gajeva 8 (Go south from Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića square past the Dubrovnik hotel until you reach Gajeva street (Ulica Ljudevita Gaja Street=Gajeva Street) ), ☎ +385 1 4827-223. Italian piadinas, Japanese teriyaki sticks, oriental wraps, Bubble tea from Taiwan and Japanese mochi cakes. 0-10USD.

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CHAPTER 10. ZAGREB

Mamma Mia, Ilica 63, ☎ +385 1 4846-093. Pizza.

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MOCA. Newly open at the main square serves great and cheap fried, deep fried and baked potatoes with a large variety of dips for takeout. 10 kuna. Nocturno, Skalinska 4 (On Kaptol, between Tkalčićeva street and Cathedral ), ☎ +385 1 4813-394. Pizza.

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Nova, Ilica 72/1. Vegetarian. •

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Oliva, Jarunska 5 (located at the Jarun near the students’ hall Stjepan Radic at the Eastern part of the volleyball center. ), ☎ +385 1 3020 777, e-mail: [email protected] . 11-24. Italian restaurant (pizza, pasta) Pizza Cut Duck, Nikole Tesle 15. A pizza-slice bar that also serves fresh tortillas with veggie and/or meat filling. Sandwich Bar Pingvin, Nikole Tesle 10 ( on one of the central streets, close to the Flower Square and Trg Ban Jelcica), ☎ +385 1 48 11 446. Classic sandwich bar with a wide menu and reasonably good mix of languages. One of the most popular dishes is the toplo/hladno (hot/cold), a grilled chicken and vegetables sandwich.

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Šestica, Medulićeva 6, ☎ +385 1 4846-248, +385 1 4846-562. Pizza. Stara Sava, Savska cesta 208 (Close to rotor and Mladost sports center ), ☎ +385 1 3634-322. Arguably the best pizzeria in Zagreb.

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VegeHop, Vlaška 79. Closed Sunday. Vegetarian.

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Žirafa, Maksimirska cesta 64. Cheap Mexican food and drinks. Nice summer terrace. •

10.9.2 Mid-range •

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1 Royal India, Kaptol, 27 ( Located in Kaptol, 2 minutes walk from the Zagreb Cathedral ), ☎ +385 1 4680 965, e-mail: [email protected]. Serves authentic Indian Dishes. (updated Jul 2015) Asia, A. Šenoe 1, ☎ +385 1 48 41 218. 12AM12PM. Chinese restaurant Caramba, Frankopanska 6. Mexican food.

Mali Medo, Tkalčićeva 36, ☎ +385 1 4929 613. Another traditional Croatian restaurant. Lively atmosphere, youthful clientele, and all very affordable. Excellent ćevapčići and gulaš, not to mention superb beer. Mains: 25–60 kuna. Manzoku, Gajeva St. An excellent and so far only Japanese take-out in Zagreb. Tasty but rather expensive. Mex Cantina, Savska cesta 154, ☎ +385 1 6192156. Mexican food. Good service, great food, on Mondays they offer live music by the best Croatian mariachi band, Los Caballeros starting at 9PM. 1 Nishta Restaurant, Masarykova ul. 11, 10000, Zagreb (Located in between MarshalTito Square and Octagon), ☎ +385 1 8897 444. 100% Vegetarian food Pivnica Medvedgrad, Samoborska cesta 217, Božidara Adžije 16, Tkalčićeva 36. Great food and beer for reasonable prices. Make sure to try 'čvarkuša' (4 HRK). 500ml beer: 12 HRK. Restaurant Kvatric, Maksimirska 9, ☎ +385 1 2330 070. Croatian restaurant with very nice food for a reasonable price. Has a nice terrance in the back garden. Close to tramstop 'Kvaternikov Trg'.

10.9.3 Splurge •

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Ivica i Marica, Tkalčićeva 70, ☎ +385 1 481 7321, +385 1 482 8999. Tu–Su 12PM-11PM. Wonderful food made only from natural ingredients, many sourced locally. Offers traditional, lite, diabetic, and organic cakes, ice creams and such.

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Boban, Gajeva 9. Italian food. Feniks, Jurisiceva 19 ( 5 minutes walk from the Za greb’s main square), ☎ +385 1-481 44 11. Mexican food. 1 Le Bistro, Mihanovićeva 1, ☎ +385 1 45 66 666. Daily 8:30-23:00. A French restaurant within the Regent Esplanade Hotel. Panino, Nova Ves 11 (Centar Kaptol ), ☎ +385 1 46 69 013. Nice little restaurant with great service and wonderful food. If you are into French and Istrian style food you will probably love this place. Restaurant Suhina, Dr. F. Tuđmana 1, Orešje (near the Podsused bridge ), ☎ +385 44 1 33 71 562. An old family-run restaurant on the old Samobor road that offers a variety of roasted food.

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10.10. DRINK

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Srčeko, Vinogradska 135, ☎ +385 1 373 10 07. M- 10.10.1 Bars and pubs Sa 12AM - 11PM, Su 12AM-6PM. A very romantic Many bars are located around Flover square (Cvlittle restaurant. jetni trg), the main square (Trg Bana Josipa Jelačića), Takenoko, Nova Ves 11, in Kaptol Centar Shop- Preradovićeva, Tkalčićeva, Radićeva, Bogovićeva, and ping Center (Centar Kaptol ), ☎ +385 1 48 60 530. Gajeva streets. Zagreb may not be synonymous with sushi restaurants, but this is one is superb. It is not cheap, but sushi they make is incredible.

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Velika Klet Obitelji Bunčić, 20km from central Zagreb, ☎ +385 1 2781-132. A very popular place that offers Croatian cuisine, live music on weekends, a stable, fish pond and basketball courtyard.

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10.9.4 Desserts •

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100% juice bar, Tkalčićeva 5 ( in the center of Za greb. Down some stairs - look for the small sign ). Pricey but a good place to get a healthy snack or fruit smoothie.

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SladoMazo, Zelinska 7. A pancake restaurant with a wide range of crazy both sweet and salty filling ideas. The Cookie Factory, Tkalčićeva 21 ( Head north of the large clock on the Ban Jelačić square towards the Dolac market, and turn left before the stairs. Head into the Tkalčićeva street and when you see the statue of Marija Jurić Zagorka theCookie Factoryshouldbe to your left. You'll notice it by the decorated outside with funny drawings.), ☎ +38599 4949400. 9AM - 10PM. Homebaked American Sweets. Cookies, brownies and bars, krispy treats, muffins, cupcakes, banana breads, scones, cobblers, biscotti, top notch coffee, smoothies, cakes and pies. Torte i To, Nova Ves 11, second floor of the Kaptol Centar. A great little caffe offering the best cheese cake in town, and other great cakes

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Vincek, Ilica. Closed on Sundays.. The local, best known ice cream and cake palace in town center. Offers diet foods. •

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Konoba Didov San, Mletačka 11, Upper Town, ☎ +385 14851154. The best atmosphere restaurant in Zagreb with excellent food, unique menu, large portions and great location!!

10.10 Drink

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Booksa, Martićeva 14d. A cafe/bookshop/library famous with local young intelectuals. Harlekin, Tkalčićeva 50, ☎ +385 99 3864 720. 9AM- 02 a.m.. Cozy atmosphere, excellent English, free Wi-Fi, delicious drinks, very reasonable prices, great coffee, DJ or live music on weekends. Cica, Tkalčićeva. Bar mostly known for its great and varied choice of the local schnappses (rakija). Interesting always changing, gallery-like interior. The whole bar is small but offers outdoor seating. Very popular and crowded, brimming with young business and student clientele. Funk club, Tkalčićeva 52, ☎ +385 98 672 338. 11AM- 02 a.m.. Cafe / bar that offers various music night programmes in the basement (mostly alternative, dj-s, world music) and spacial backpacker evenings. Very good atmosphere, lots of character, cheap and tasty Rakija shoots and excellent electronic music: funky, electro, jazz, d'n'b, house, dubstep. Golf, Preradovićeva. Until 2AM. Popular golfthemed cafe/bar. KIC, Preradovićeva. Offers free internet and cheap international call center. Hosts a cinema with various alternative movies. Kino Grič, Jurišićeva. Newly re-decorated old cinema. Hosts movies, festivals, music nights and Zagreb’s hipster crowd. Krivi Put (Wrong Way), Savska 14. Mali Medo, Tkalčićeva. Offers a good choice of local beer and food. Indoors smoking prohibited. Has a terrace facing Tkalčićeva street. Melin, Tkalčićeva. A cheap bar brimming with young people and students. Offers indoors, a roofed terraced leveled seating and an open terrace facing Tkalčićeva street. Known for crowds of people often drinking even around the bar, in the park and playground in front of it. Oliver Twist, Tkalčićeva. A choice of good Irish beer with a great atmosphere. Big summer terrace in front.

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Bar Plan B, Tkalčićeva 84, ☎ +385 14811285. A cafe/wine bar/sports bar. Attracts a mix of locals and tourists. You can expect music from every genre, and decade, from Jazz to Alternative/Indie. Portal, Tkalčićeva. Next to Melin, offers same service, the Portal and Melin crowds often mix at the outdoors terraces. Purgeraj, Park Ribnjak. A bar/club located in the Ribnjak park in the city center. Offers mostly rock, blues and alternative music. Daily happy hour when you get two drinks for the price of one. Sometimes hosts concerts. Popular with student crowd esp on Thursdays when it hosts the newly popular “take me out” evening offering a mix of indie and alternative music. In the summer, outside Purgeraj, in the Ribnjak park there are live concerts and various workshops offering summer fun under the name 'Park In Zagreb'.

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Tolkien’s House, Opatovina. A small fantasy cafe/bar for Tolkien lovers. Offers a variety of beers, cider and hot drinks.

10.10.2 Clubs •

Medika, Pierottijeva 11. A local alternative club/legalized squat usually loaded with people during weekends, playing various music genres until the early morning. Best Croatian beers for 10 HRK. Močvara, Prisavlje. A local alternative club (rock, punk, metal, indie)with various concerts and theme nights/programmes. Sometimes hosts festivals, young indie talent concerts, movie nights, exhibitions etc. SAX! - Klub hrvatskih glazbenika, Palmotićeva 22/2, ☎ +385-1 48 72 836. A great place to enjoy live music of a wide array of styles including blues, jazz, rock and pop. Sirup, Donje Svetice 40. Interesting interior and atmosphere. Good electronic music. A bit expensive entrance fees, but worth seeing. The Best, Jarunska 5 (out near the Jarun Lake com plex ), ☎ +385 1 3011 943. Largest club in Zagreb. Mainly dance style music. The Jazz Club. Open daily. Jazz, blues, and funk bands, often from other countries.

10.11 Sleep 10.11.1 Budget

Aquarius, Aleja Matije Ljubeka bb (Jarun Lake). Saturday night is drum'n'bass & dancehall music, Hostels Friday is hip-hop/r'n'b night. Good concerts. 1 All 4 seasons Hostel, Gundulićeva 50, e-mail: [email protected] . All 4 seasons is lovely, BP Club, Nikole Tesle 7, ☎ +385-1 481 44 44. unusual and pretty much artistic apartment-hostel Open daily from 10PM to 2AM. Jazz and blues located just 10 minutes walking distance from the lovers should check it out. strict center of Zagreb and the Ban Josip Jelačić main city square. Dorm bed: €15 (115 kuna). Funk club, Tkalčićeva 52, ☎ +385 98 672 338. 11AM-2AM. Very good atmosphere, lots of char Buzz Hostel. Furnished with modern, ikea furniacter, cheap and tasty Rakija shoots and excellent ture. Also a location in Split. Dorm bed: 120 kuna. electronic music: funky, electro, jazz, d'n'b, house, dubstep! 1 Chillout Hostel Zagreb, Fra Andrije Kačića Miošića 3b, ☎ +38514849605, e-mail: Jabuka, Jabukovac 28, ☎ +385 1-48 34 397. Cult [email protected] . Check-in: 2PM, club for alternative, punk music. Cheap drinks check-out: 11AM. A brand new hostel in the city opened on weekends, often concerts of alternative centre, free linen, free towels, free wifi, 0-24h bar bands. Mostly visited on weekends, especially Friand reception Dorm bed: 97-127 kuna. days. Admission fee: 25 Kn. •

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KSET, Unska 3. A popular student club. Offers various indie and alternative programmes every night of the week. Indoors smoking prohibited. Serves only beer and non alcoholic drinks. Entrance prices from 10kn (students) to 45/60kn for concerts..

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Dizzy Daisy Hostel Zagreb. Dorm bed: 100-150 kuna. 1 Fulir Hostel Zagreb. 2 rooms, including a 12bed dorm. Great place to meet people, but can be a wait to use the bathroom.

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Funk Lounge, Ivana Rendića 28b (From main train station: Take a tram number 4 (direction Dubec), and get off on the 7th station (Masiceva). Continue along Maksimirska street until you see 'Dublin Pub' across the street on your left side, cross the street and go behind 'Dublin' on the right side in 15 story building. Just by Mlinar bakery and hair stylist is the entrance. ), ☎ +385 1 555 2707, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: from 1PM, check-out: until 11AM. dorm from: €13, private from: €20. 1 Hobo Bear Hostel, Meduliceva 4. Check-in: 1400, check-out: 1100. A cozy hostel very near the town center. There is a basement hang out lounge with a TV, including cable and many DVDs, as well as free (fast) internet and computers. The staff is amazingly helpful and speak perfect English, the beds are comfortable and come with free linens and blankets, and there is also a well stocked kitchen facility. Dorm bed: 105 kuna. Hostel Carpe Diem, Milana Sufflaya 3. Dorm bed: 80 kuna.


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Hostel Lika, Pašmanska 17. Small and cozy hostel a bit out of the city center. Dorm bed: 100 kuna. Hostel Mali Mrak Zagreb, Dubicka 8. Dorm bed: 100 kuna. Nokturno Hostel, Skalinska 2a. Free internet access, free linens and towels. Dorm bed: 130 kuna; Single: 200 kuna. Logistics Youth Centre, Jakuševečka 87, ☎ +385 1 6626 035. Logistic youth center, also works as a regional information center. From the host, you can get complete information about everything that interests you. The space has 10 rooms, lobby with fireplace, dining room, kitchen and a cinema hall, where you can stream movies from your laptop. The most interesting part is the terrace with space for tents and 30 seats. Located further from downtown, but the center has its own bus which runs as needed. Parking for approximately 30 vehicles. Old Town Zagreb Hostel, Dordiceva 24 (Ulica Ignjata Dordica). Dorm bed: 100 kuna. Palmers Lodge Zagreb, Branimirova 25 (300m from the main train station, 700m from the main bus station.). Dorm bed: €15 (115 kuna). Ravnice Youth Hostel, I. Ravnice 38d.

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1 Hotel Jägerhorn, Ilica 14, ☎ +385 1 48-33-877. 3-star hotel Founded in 1827, Hotel Jägerhorn is the city’s oldest standing hotel. 1 Arcotel Allegra, Branimirova 29 (300 meters from the central railway station (Glavni kolodvor) ), ☎ +385 1 46-96-000. 4-star hotel which is Zagreb’s first “lifestyle” hotel. Allrooms arespacious andairconditioned and feature mini bar, safe, internet connection, bigscreen TV and DVD player. A very cool touch are the free apples supplied in your room in a very funky holder! Best Western Premier Hotel Astoria, Petrinjska 71 (not far from the central square of Ban Jelačić ), ☎ +385 1 48-08-900. 3-star hotel 1 Panorama Hotel Zagreb, Trg Kresimira Ćosića 9 (in the business district of Zagreb some 2.5 kilometers away from the central railway station (Glavni kolodvor) ). 4-star hotel. Hotel Aristos, Cebini 33, Buzin (in the vicinity of the Zagreb airport at the southern gates of Zagreb, in the Buzin commercial center ), ☎ +385 1 66-95-900. 4-star hotel. Hotel As, Zelengaj 2A (2.5 km north-west of the railway station (Glavni kolodvor) ), ☎ +385 1 46-09111. 4-star hotel. 1 Hotel Central, Branimirova 3 (150 meters from the railway station (Glavni kolodvor) ), ☎ +385 1 4841-122. 3-star hotel refurbished in 1996. Hotel Dora, Trnjanska cesta 11 (behind the Lisinski Music Hall (southof themain railway station - Glavni kolodvor) ), ☎ +385 1 63-11-900. 3 star hotel. 1 Hotel Dubrovnik, Gajeva 1 (overlooking Zagreb’s main square - Ban Jelačić Square ), ☎ +385 1 4863-500. 4-star hotel. Clean, centrally located, good service. Some rooms are small. 1 Hotel Holiday (at the western entrance to Zagreb not far from the Zagreb Fair ), ☎ +385 1 34-96-621. 3-star hotel. 1 Hotel I, Remetinečka cesta 106 ( near the southern entrance into Zagreb, south of the Sava and in the vicinity of Zagreb Fair ), ☎ +385 1 65-42-238. 3star hotel. 1 Hotel International, Miramarska 24 (several hundred meters south of the central railway station ), ☎ +385 1 61-08-800. 3-star hotel.

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1 Hotel Jadran, Vlaška 50 (in the city center some 500 meters east of the Cathedral ), ☎ +385 1 45-53777. 3-star hotel. There is a big shopping center near-by - the Importanne Gallery.

10.11.3 Splurge •

Hotel Laguna, Kranjčevićeva 29 (near the Cibona Business Tower ), ☎ +385 1 30-47-000. 3-star hotel. Hotel Phoenix, Sesvetska cesta 29 (in an eastern suburbof Zagreb - Sesvete. It is located some 500meters from the motorway on the main road that leads from Zagreb to Dugo Selo. ), ☎ +385 1 20-06-333. 3-star hotel

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1 Esplanade Zagreb, Mihanovićeva 1 ( just across the central railway station ), ☎ +385 1 45-66-666. Built in 1925 for passengers of the famous Orient Express train, which connected Paris and Istanbul. If you can, check the Emerald Ballroom with its soaring dome shaped roof. The hotel also includes the Zinfandel’s Restaurant, Le Bistro and the Esplanade 1925, the hotel’s lounge and cocktail bar. 1 Sheraton Zagreb Hotel, Kneza Borne 2, ☎ +385 1 45-53-535. Features air-conditioned rooms and suites with classic furniture and marbled bathrooms. It also includes King Tomislav Restaurant, Fontana Restaurant, Piano Bar, Café Imperial, 17 meeting rooms and an 800-square-meter Grand Ballroom. 1 Westin Zagreb, Kršnjavoga 1 (next to the Mimara Museum and the Croatian National Theatre ), ☎ +385 1 48-92-000. The hotel was renovated in 2004. It features the legendary Heavenly Bed and Heavenly Shower and probably offers the best view in the city.

Hotel Esplanade, Zagreb, Croatia

10.12 Connect 10.12.1 Internet •

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Aquarius net, Kralja Držislava 4.

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Palace Hotel •

1 Palace Hotel, J.J. Strossmayer Square, ☎ +385 1 48-14-611. 4-star hotel. It was builtin theSecession style in 1891 and converted into a hotel in 1905. The Arts Pavilion is 50 metres away.

Art Internet Caffee, Tkalčićeva 18, “Art” is an internet cafe bar, situated in the very center of Zagreb (Tkalčićeva 18), just a few steps from the Ban Jelačić square. In this modern and comfortable bar you can enjoy a fine selection of beverages as well as a large variety of computer services. Tel:+385 1 48 11 050. Open M-Su 08.00 - 23-00.

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Klub SC,Savska 25. Mama, Preradovićeva 18, is one of the coolest and cheapest cyber cafes in the city. They charge 10kn (1.36E) per hour or you can pay by the minute. Wireless connection, Skype, cool juices and coffee are available. The place is run by Multimedia institute , a nonprofit organization working in the fields of new media culture and digital technology, so there’s chance of meeting some of the local and international cutting-edge artists or attending some interesting program. MMC Zagreb, Gajeva 17, “MMC” is an internet point (Gaming & Surfing & Call & Fax), situated

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10.14. COPE

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in the very center of Zagreb (Gajeva 17), just a few Also, avoid strip clubs at all costs. Zagreb is not famous steps from the Ban Jelačić square. Tel:+385 1 48 72 for such clubs and they are rare, however most of them 671. Open Mon-Sun 09.00 - 23-00. are often run by very shady characters, and often overcharge their guests. Recent cases include foreigners that Sublink, Teslina 12. were charged €2000 for a bottle of champagne. These clubsovercharge their customers to the extreme, and their Vip, Preradović square 5. bouncers will not have any mercy if you tell them you are unable to pay. You will soon find yourself in a local hosVip, Ibler square. pital. This not only applies to strip clubs in Zagreb, but also all over Croatia.

10.13 Stay safe As other cities in Croatia, Zagreb is very safe, but just as anywhere else dark alleys, parks during the night, etc. should generally be avoided, and common sense should be followed. The chance of getting in trouble in Zagreb is fairly low, especially in the center where most of the hotels and restaurants are located, and for foreigners who are in general respected and welcome. Visitors soon realize that Zagreb is way safer than the vast majority of other European capitals such as London, Paris, Vienna, Rome, Budapest, etc. Pickpocketing isn't a particularly common occurrence in Zagreb, but you might be approached bybeggars andsimilar people on the street - ignore them and they will go away. Also, outbursts of homophobic behaviour have been known to occur, so it is advisable for homosexual couples not to show affection when near large groups of bald people or people that look like football hooligans. A lesbian couple fromUK was assaulted by an angry passenger in a tram, and they suffered minor injuries, and the perpetrator was apprehended by the police. Watch out for aggressive people like that one. Park Ribnjak, located very close to the city centre, is safe during daytime and worth visiting, especially for children. However, it has recently become a night-time meeting place of alternative youngsters, and subculture violence involving “skinheads” and similar violent young people has occasionally occurred. It’s best to steer clear of Ribnjak after dark, which shouldn't be a problem because of a lack of interesting content for most tourists anyway. Further, if you are going out at night (especially on weekends) steer clear of any drunk and rowdy groups of young people you might encounter in the street or night trams as random beatings have been known to occur. It is not uncommon for such groups to start unprovoked attacks on passersby, although they target mainly younger crowd and teenagers. These are not common but they do happen occasionally, and people have been killed by such attacks in the past, so take precautions. It is advisable for men not to wear overly pink clothes. Avoid clubs which play what is known in Croatia as “Turbo-folk” music. These clubs are often featured in the local newspapers as violence erupts in them quite easily.

10.14 Cope 10.14.1 Reading and Speaking Croatian children start learning a foreign language in primary school, and for the majority it is English, so younger people can usually speak the language well enough, and many older people know some. You may also try German or Italian, as both are popular (for historical and cultural reasons). It is also advisable to learn a some basic Croatian words and phrases - because Zagrebcan be a vibrant, busycity, a few basic molim (please), hvala (thanks) or oprostite (excuse me, pardon me, I'm sorry) will go a long way to avoid being ignored by a busy local.

10.14.2 Visiting during summer Summer time is traditionally time in Zagreb for maintenance and road repairs. If you visit Zagreb at that time, you should do some research on what streets are open and what aren't and also be prepared to get stuck in traffic jams during rush hours.

10.14.3 Embassies •

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Albania, Jurišićeva 2A, ☎ +385 1 481 0679, fax: +385 1 481 0682, e-mail: [email protected]. Australia, Centar Kaptol, 3rd Floor, ☎ +385 1 4891 200, fax: +385 1 4891 216, e-mail: [email protected]. Monday to Friday: 8:30 - 16:30, except for public holidays. Austria, Radnička cesta 80, 9th Floor, ☎ +385 1488 1050, fax: +385 1-483 4461, e-mail: [email protected]. Consulary department Mon-Fri 09:00 - 12:00. Canada, Prilaz Gjure Deželića 4, ☎ +385 1 488 1200, fax: +385 1 488 1230, e-mail: [email protected]. Monday to Thursday: 10:00 - 12:00 and 13:00 - 15:00 Friday: 10:00 13:00.

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China, Mlinovi 132. Tues and Thurs: 09:00 12:00. Finland, Miramarska 23, HR-10000 Zagreb, ☎ +385 1 6312 080, fax: +385 1 6312 090, e-mail: sanomat.zag@formin.fi. Mo-Fr 9AM-11AM. Germany, Ulica grada Vukovara 64, ☎ +385 16300 100, +385 98-227 136 (Emergencies & also SMS), fax: +385 1-6155 536, from inside Germany 030/1817 67231. Mon-Fri 09:00 - 12:00 public access, office hours Mon-Thu 07:45-17:00, Fri 07:4513:45. Greece, Opatička 12, ☎ +385 1 4810444, +385 989 228 848 (Emergencies), fax: +385 1 481 0419, e-mail: [email protected] [email protected], [email protected]. 09:00 - 15:30. Japan, Boškovićeva 2, ☎ +385 1 4870 650, fax: +385 1 4667 334. 08:30-12:00, 13:00-17:15. Macedonia, Kralja Zvonimira 6/1, ☎ +385 1 457 2812, fax: +385 1 462 0369, e-mail: [email protected]. Norway, Grand Centar Hektorovićeva 2, ☎ +385 1 6273 800, fax: +385 1 62730 899, e-mail: [email protected]. 08.30 – 16.00 Monday to Friday (15. September- 14. May) and 08.30 – 15.00 (15. May - 14. September). South Korea, Ksaverska cesta 111/A-B, ☎ +385(0)1-4821-282. Bogovićeva 3, ☎ +385 Switzerland, 1-487 88 00, fax: +385 1-481 08 90, e-mail: [email protected] [email protected], [email protected] . United Kingdom, Ivana Lučića 4, ☎ +385 1 6009 100, fax: +385 1 6009 111. Mon-Thurs: 08301700; Fri: 0830-1400. United States, Ulica Thomasa Jeffersona 2 ( Buzin, near the airport, bus lines 166, 229, 268 from Glavni Kolodvor, stop Odra (the first of the 3 Odra stops, stop after Buzin)), ☎ +385 1-661-2200, +385 1-6612300 (Consular Services). 08:00 - 16:30.

10.15 Go next •

Samobor - a picturesque medieval town with well preserved old lore and long tourist tradition. 25 km west of Zagreb, accessible by bus (~30 min distance from Zagreb, ticket price ~20 HRK).

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Sisak - a beautiful town at the intersection of 3 rivers with long history. 50 km southeastof Zagreb, accessible by fast train (about 30 min), and bus. Vrbovec - a town for all who would like to see the typical way of Croatian life. 32 km northeast of Zagreb, accessible by bus. Karlovac - a stunning town at the intersection of 4 rivers. 45 km southwest of Zagreb, accessible by bus. Ljubljana, Slovenia.

Chapter 11

Istria Istria (Croatian: Istra) is the north-westernmost region of Croatia. In a triangular shape, it is bordered in the north by Slovenia, east by the Kvarner region of Croatia and on the south and west by the Adriatic Sea.

Pula into an important administrative centre and building villas, amphiteatres and temples. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the inner land remained a feudal territory occupied by Slavs, Frankish, Byzantines and finally Austrian Habsburgs, while the coast fell under control of the Republic of Venice in the 13th century. Intermittent combats were held between both powers until the fall of Venice in 1797. Since that date, the Croatian population of Istria struggled for autonomy and were severely repressed both by Austrians and Fascist Italy (after World War I), eventually ending with a revenge from Yugoslav partisans after the World War II, forcing most autochthonous ethnic Italians to leave. A small ethnic Italian community still lives in the coastal towns. Relatively spared from the Yugoslav Wars, Istria is now a prosperous region. Latter years have seen a growing regional sentiment and a reconciliation with its previously conflictive Italian identity.

11.1 Cities •

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The peninsula offers stark contrasts: the interior is very unspoiled and mountainous with ancient walled cities atop hills with surrounding fertile fields, whilst the coast has numerous beaches – do not expect any sand in them, though – and stunning scenery of rocky walls plummeting into the sea. The Istrian coast is arguably the most developed tourist destination in Croatia. Hordes of Italian, German and French tourists enjoy package tourism during the crowded high season.

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Although Pula is the main town, according to population and culture, relatively rural Pazin is the administrative centre of the peninsula.

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11.4 Talk

11.3 Understand Formerly part of the Venetian Empire, this region has seen many empires such as Byzantine, Roman, AustroHungarian, and Yugoslavian (Communist). The cultural legacy of Istria is thus very rich and diverse. After defeating the Illyrian Histri tribe, the Romans settled in the peninsula and left a large heritage, turning

Croatian is the official and most common language, but in these formerly Venetian lands Italian is nearly universally understood. There is still an Italian ethnic community in many coastal towns. German is also very widely spoken. Most restaurants in the main town also have an English speaker or two on staff. Some market sellers will initially address you in all four (“Izvolite, Prego, Bitte, How can I help you?").

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11.5 Get in Pula is the main transportation hub for Istria so most people will arrive there if they are not driving. Some boat lines arrive to Poreč, too.

CHAPTER 11. ISTRIA

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11.5.1 By bus Buses run from Trieste in Italy, Zagreb and other major cities to Pazin in the centre of Istria, and most to Pula in the South.

Brijuni (Brioni) Islands - private playground of Tito including an international zoo, dinosaur footprints and Roman and Byzantine ruins. Hill-top villages of Groznjan and Motovun, populated by artist communities. Magnificent frescoes of Our Lady of the Rocks chapel in Beram.

11.6.1 Itineraries Istria is a fine region to practise hiking and biking, as much in the mountainous inland as in the coast.

11.5.2 By air

The Southern end of Istria is arguably the best place for biking. Ask for a bike map in Pula Tourist Office, showRyanair provides a connection London (Stansted) to Pula ing well-marked routes around the coast and in the Cape three days a week, and Dublin Pula also. Scandjet con- Kamenjak. nects Pula to Oslo, Copenhagen and Stockholm once a With diversity at the heart of Istria, you’ll delight in new week (on Saturdays) during the summer. Eurowings also culinary experiences and reconnect with traditional flaserves Pula. vors.

11.5.3 By train Trains run daily between Ljubljana in Slovenia and Pula, and from Rijeka to Ljubljana. Unfortunately due to historical accident, the two train lines do not meet up despite some works having been commenced on a rail tunnel to link the two short distances.

11.5.4 By Boat

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Visit Lovran, Istria, near Opatija, for the Days of Cherries Festival in June Join the Truffle Days festival in the Motovun/Buzet area in late September Attend a music or folklore performance in the unique atmosphere of the Pula Arena

Motovun Film Festival, Motovun (On the main Venezia Lines is a high speed ferry operator that operroad between Buzet and Buje ), ☎ +385 1 374 07 07. ated its first trip in May 2003. Operating in the North Internationally-renowned film festival in the hilltop Adriatic, Venezia Lines links the North Adriatic’s coasts Northern town of Motovun. of Italy and Croatia. From May 2003 to October 2009, Venezia Lines has carried more than 450.000 passengers Visit Groznjan and its jazz Festival between Venice and the Northern Coast of Croatia. In the North Adriatic Venezia Lines is currently utilising 2 vessels, San Frangisk and her sister vessel San Pawl, both with a capacity of 310 passenger, They are currently de- 11.8 Eat ployed on routes between Venice, Italy and the Croatian Istrian gastronomy is known by its huge diversity. Pasta, ports of Mali Losinj, Porec, Pula, Rabac and Rovinj. gnocchi, risotto and polenta, as well as its high-quality vegetables (which can be found, at a cheap price, in any of the numerous open-air markets present in almost ev11.6 See ery Istrian town), accompany main dishes, as an Italian heritage. Especially, Istrian peppers have international Roman structures in Pula, including the Arena and recognition. Forum. At the coast, fresh fish and seafood are a tradition. Scampi is the favourite, together with squid and sole. In The old Venetian town of Rovinj. the inland, air-cured ham (Prsut) and sausages are the highlights. St Euphrasius Basilica in Poreč. But the gastronomic pearl is no doubt the truffles. After The many beaches along the coast. the beginning of the season, in late September, truffles •

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11.8. EAT

can be found accompanying any dish and sauce. Espe- This version of the traditional dish jota, made from cially recommended is pasta with truffles. Also, olive oil sauerkraut and beans, differs from its Karst counterpart with truffles is a typical product of the region. in that it does not contain any potatoes. It is served with white or yellow polenta, as a main course and in many Typical Istrian goodies other ways. Simple but tasty “meštra” (minestrone), made from seasonal vegetables, is still prepared nowadays. A character- Fritaja istically Istrian minestrone is made from “bobici” (corn), This egg dish is a typical characteristic of Istrian cuisine. fennel, barley, etc. All of these dishes are spiced with Fritaja species are very different. Selection and prepapesto. It is the ingredients, and not just the flour, that ration depends on the imagination, taste, and from what makes Istrian dishes so thick. we have in the refrigerator. You can prepare fritaja with ham, bacon, asparagus, eggplant, mushrooms, truffles, Home-made pastas such as noodles, lasagne, macaroni, “bleki” or “posutice”, and the very Istrian “fusi”, are used baby onions or other vegetables, or cheese. in soups and side dishes. Fusi are offered as a starter or side dish and are prepared in various ways with sauces. Polenta and gnocchi have been prepared in Istrian homes for ages, but these dishes have their origins elsewhere.

Piran salt

vatives.

Asparagus

Istrian jota

Wild asparagus or "šparoga”, is a characteristic Mediter-

Piran salt, this precious product of the Sečovelje Salina Nature Park, is the result of restless finds, warm sun, and the hardworking salt-pan workers. It is made manually, Due to the plentiful sunlight and the vicinity of the sea, according to traditional methods dating back more than vegetables, which are widely grown in Istria, have a very 700 years. In the past also Koper had soltfealds. special taste and naturally, interesting local names. Vari- Khaki ous vegetables, from“verzot” (Brussels sprouts) to “cikorija” (radicchio), “koromač-finoči” (fennel root), “cuketi” The homeland of khaki - golden apples is the East Asia. (zucchini), mangold, “melancani” (eggplant), peas, and In Europe and the USA are khaki’s produced from the “kapus” (cabbage), are used to prepare side dishes, with second half of the 19th century. In Europe it was brought about in 1870, produced mainly by the Mediterranean the obligatory olive oil and plenty of garlic. countries. The Slovenian Istria and Primorje started Meat dishes (fish, mutton, poultry, beef) are well known growing khaki a little later, during the first decades of for their method of preparation, “gvacat” (squazzetto) is the last century. Most of the khaki’s is produced in the a meat dish with sauce containing native Istrian spices. valley Strunjan. In Strunjan so each year in the first week Many dishes are prepared in a “padela” (a frying pan of November have Khaki Day, where visitors can taste with a handle) or under a “črepnja” (cover for cooking various kinds of khakis, khaki spirit, khaki jam, various over embers). These dishes are more commonly found khaki desserts (pies, krostate, cakes, tarts) and so on. in the vicinity of Koper than in the town itself, but with a little effort you will be able to find excellent fish soup, The olive trees marinade, or similar dishes even within the town itself. These ancient trees, which originate in the MediterDespite some attempts to preserve and revive authen- ranean, can reach a respectable age. Olives were picked tic Istrian cuisine, there is a tendency in Koper towards from wild olive trees in prehistoric times. Later they were more modern culinary ideas, which offer the most varied ennobled and the ancient Greeks allegedly knew around dishes, from fish, meat, pasta, and pizzas – something for fifteen species of olive trees. The oil produced was used every pocket. for many purposes: food, lighting, worshipping the gods Olive oil , which has been used in Istrian cuisine since the and as one of the more important trade goods. The Babyold days, has the most suitable ratio between saturated lonian code from 2500 BC includes regulations regarding and unsaturated fat. It has a high percentage of oleic acid the olive oil trade. The Phoenicians and the Greeks even anda suitable quantityof essential fatty acids. In thefruits had special ships for transporting amphorae containing of the area, there are also sugars, cellulose, and minerals olive oil. Due to its increasing importance, the Romans such as calcium, potassium, iron, and copper, which have planted olive trees all across their empire, wherever it was a beneficial effect on the veins, heart, and digestion. Bon able to grow. Olive trees have been growing in Istria since the Roman times and even the most respected classes of appétit! Roman society had olives on their menus – including the Tipical products from Istria imperial kitchen of Emperor Augustus. Slovenian Istria is one of the northernmost regions where olive trees grow Fig loaf This wonderful treat is made from ground dried figs, successfully. Olive oils from this region are undoubtedly mixed with fig or grape juice, shaped into a loaf and one of the best and they are known as oils with exceplightly rolled in flour. Cut into slices, this is a delicious, tional aromatic and medicinal properties, mostly due to healthy andnatural snack without added sugar andpreser- the special Mediterranean climate where they grow.

52 ranean plant. It grows at the edge of the forests of Slovenian Istria and it grows up to one meter high. It is born each year in the spring months from half of March to half of May. An old istrian proverb says: “April spareser, Maio sareser” (April of asparagus, May of cherries). Lavender

The lavender is one of the plants that you immediately associate with the Mediterranean. However, it can also be found in an ornamental garden. We recognize it by its dark blue or violet flowers and a typical fragrance. It has a relaxing and beneficial action on the body. It is used as a healing plant, because lavender flowers are full of active substances. The lavender is used to treat migraine, dizziness and flatulence. In addition, lavender is also used for decoration in bouquets of dried flowers and potpuri. Because their fragrance dried flowers are put in wardrobes since drive away moths.

11.9 Drink Istria is a land of vineyards. Wines are sweet and fruity, with a wide variety of grapes present, such as white malvasia, red teran and muscat. The most famous vineyard area is Kalavojna, on the Eastern coast. Regional liquor grappa is widely produced in here, with several varieties available.

11.10 Stay safe 11.11 Go next The hilly Cres island in the Gulf of Kvarner can be reached by car ferry from Brestova.

CHAPTER 11. ISTRIA

Chapter 12

Brijuni 12.5 See

Brijuni is in the Istria region of Croatia.

12.6 Do

12.1 Understand

You can book excursions plus yachting, golf and diving expeditions. The organized tour (160kn) passes Veliki Brijuni`s main sights on a little train with an accompanying guide. It takes about 4 hours including the sea crossing from Fažana. Independent travellers can hire a bike or a little electric buggy.

The Brijuni archipelago lies off Istria`s west coast, a 15 minute boat journey from Fažana, just north of Pula. Most of the 14 islands are off-limits to the public. You have to be a member of the world`s elite to get an invite here. Luckily there is so much to see on the other two you`re unlikely to feel hard done by.

12.1.1 History

12.7 Buy

Brijuni is preserved as an open-air time machine, recording 5,000 years of human history and 150 million years of prehistory when dinosaurs patrolled the islands. More recently, the islands were used by Marshall Tito to conduct diplomacy and entertain visitors such as Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Margaret and Elizabeth Taylor. The safari park today consists of many animals donated by these visitors, including Sony and Lanka, two Indian elephants from Indira Gandhi.

12.8 Eat

12.1.2 Landscape

12.10.2 Camping

Brijuni consists of hectares of well-maintained, green parkland surrounded by the dazzling Adriatic and planted with avenues of prehistoric-looking pines.

12.10.3 Backcountry

12.1.3 Flora and fauna

12.12 Go next

12.9 Drink 12.10 Sleep 12.10.1 Lodging

12.11 Stay safe

12.1.4 Climate

12.2 Get in 12.3 Fees/Permits 12.4 Get around 53

Chapter 13

Fažana Fažana is a village in the Istria region, Croatia. As a tourist destination it’s mostly known as transport hub for boat trips to the popular Brijuni archipelago. However, this fishermen’s town with itssmallport is a pleasant place itself too.

13.1 Understand 13.2 Get in

Open every day 10am-6pm. Authorized diving centre that organizes daily scuba dives and fun dives in Brijuni National Park and also gives PADI scuba diving courses. Brijuni’s seabed is a protected and well preserved underwater area with rich flora and fauna. (updated Nov 2015)

13.6 Buy 13.7 Eat

Fažana lies on the regional road from Vodnjan to Pula.

13.8 Drink 13.3 Get around 13.4 See

13.9 Sleep 13.10 Connect 13.11 Go next

Parish church of St. Kosmas and Damian

13.5 Do •

Hippocampus Diving Centre, inside the camp Bi village (2km from Fažana), ☎ +385 99 400 6922. 54

Chapter 14

Motovun Motovun is a hilltop town in Istria.

14.1 Understand

Motovun Views of the surrounds

14.3 Get around 14.4 See Thespectacular views from thetown over thesurrounding countryside.

Motovun

14.5 Do 14.6 Buy There are various little artisan shops scattered within the town.

14.7 Eat Region is known for truffles which are served at the restaurants in the town. Town centre

14.8 Drink

14.2 Get in

14.9 Sleep 55

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CHAPTER 14. MOTOVUN

Chapter 15

Poreč Poreč (Italian: Parenzo) is on the Adriatic coast of Croatia.

15.1 Get in

Euphrasian Basilica, interior Euphrasian Basilica, exterior •

Venezia Lines sail from Venice to Poreč during the summer months (April–October).

15.3 See

Timetable : All departures from Venice are at 5:00pm Arrival at Porec 7h30pm Return from Porec to Venice at 8h00 a.m. and Arrival in Venice 10h30 a.m.

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•

15.2 Get around Poreč is very small, and it’s almost impossible to get lost in the town. There is a bus station, and taxi rank nearby if you are staying at one of the many hotel/apartment complexes out of town. If you enter into the old town, which is to the right from the bus station, you will see a tourist office (logo has blue i). The tourist office will give you a map of the area.

Euphrasian Basilica. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, rebuilt in the 6th century during the Byzantine Empire. Streets. its Decumanus and Cardo Maximus still have Roman structure original forms.

15.4 Do 15.5 Buy

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CHAPTER 15. POREČ

15.6 Eat •

Ulixes, ☎ +385 52-451 132. Decumanus 2. This cosy little restaurant was a surprise to find in the very touristy Poreč. There’s the choice of dining in a candlelit stone-clad interior outside in the sunny terrace. The service is very friendlyand helpful (speaking English, Italian, German and Croatian!). Between two people you can have a whole fresh fish, with baked vegetables, quite simple but absolutely delicious. Worth visiting this town just to eat here. Prices are quite expensive for Croatia.

bar, # wellness contents, beauty center, cardiogym, outdoor swimming pool and pool for children, whirlpool, pebble beach 100 m from the hotel; prices from €57 single room, €88 double room •

15.7 Drink •

15.8 Sleep

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Obala maršala Tita, a street along the seacoast

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Valamar Crystal Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. The Valamar Crystal Hotel is family hotel, it’s open from April to October. Info: 223 rooms / 453 beds, 6 floors; rooms: single, twin and triple rooms, twin rooms with extra bed, quad rooms and suite; two restaurants and bars; outdoor swimming pool and swimming pool for children, whirlpool; beach 150 m from hotel; other: evening music, sport center, tennis courts near, 2 meeting rooms, internet corner; price: from €72 twin room Valamar Diamant Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. The Valamar Diamant Hotel in Poreč, is located in the shade of green pine trees close to the sea, and is a ten minute walk from the picturesque centre of Poreč itself. The wide selection of food, spacious wellness centre, imaginatively designed indoor and outdoor pools, as well as the large number of sporting facilities Valamar Pinia Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. Pinia is located directly on the sea, ten minutes walk from Porec’s ancient town centre. For families with children and active holiday. Valamar Rubin Hotel, Porec, HR 52240. Open from April to October, 258 air-conditioned rooms / 483 beds, 9 floors, 2 lifts; single rooms, twin rooms with extra beds, triple and family rooms; restaurant, bars; outdoor swimming pool and swimming pool for children; beach 100 m from the hotel; sport/entertainment center; prices starts from €40 single room, €56 twin room.

Apartments Lanterna Vagriba, Porec, HR 52440. A cluster of apartments about 15 km away from Poreč itself. It’s cheap (£54 a night for a four bed apartment), but you’ll need a taxi to get into town (or wait for the infrequent bus). The places themselves are clean, with dining/living room, shower, balcony and kitchen, there are a few restaurants and bars on site plus a cheesy disco. It’s mainly populated by 15.9 Go next mainly German tourists with frightening hair andorBuses leave from the town’s bus station every couple of ange tans. hours to Pula and Rijeka. Buses leave about four times a Apartment Sunshine Porec. Self-catering apart- day to Zagreb, the capital of Croatia. You can buy your ment Sunshine Porec is located on the outskirts of tickets at the bus stations on the day of departure. Porec, a 1.5 km from the sea and 3km from the center of Porec. Apartment consists of one bedroom, open-plan living room with fully equipped kitchen, bathroom and a balcony with beautiful views over Istrian countryside. Accommodates 2; daily prices from €40. Valamar Club Tamaris. Valamar Club Tamaris is located on the Lanterna peninsula surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation, open from April to October, 390 rooms: single, twin and family rooms, studio apartments; Valeta à la carte restaurant, restaurant and bar at the pool, cocktail-bar, lobby

Chapter 16

Pula 16.2.1 By plane Pula has its own international airport with daily flights to Zagreb, and direct services from many European cities including Amsterdam, Edinburgh, London, Manchester, Oslo, Vienna and Zurich. Ryanair operates direct flights from London three times a week. Many flights to Pula are charter rather than scheduled, while other flights are seasonal (summer only).

Zlatna vrata

Pula (Italian Pola, Slovene Pulj) is a nice town at the tip of the Istrian peninsula, Croatia.

16.1 Understand

There is a scheduled bus service from the bus station in town to theairport. Buses areoperated by Brioni andconnect to most major flights. The cost of a one-way ticket is HRK25. A taxi from the bus station to the city should be around HRK85 in the low season and much higher in the summer. It is possible to also consider Rijeka Airport on the island of Krk and Trieste Airport in nearby Italy to access Pula as they are close by and offer flights to different destinations.

Buses from the Pula bus station to Pula airport leave at Its history started about 3000 years ago when it was built the following times. The cost is HRK30. (last updated by Illyrians. Romans occupied Istria in 177 B.C. After 6-Apr-2014) the destruction of Western Roman empire, Istrian peninsula was devastated by Ostrogoths. Slavs came in Istria during migration period in 7th century butmostly livedon 16.2.2 By land countryside. At that time Pula was still inhabited mostly by Italians. Landlords in Pula changed quite frequently in The large and modern bus station is on the edge of the 'old middle ages from republic of Venice to Genoa to Illyrian town' district and is the hub of local, domestic and interProvinces to Austria–Hungary and many others. After national bus routes. There are direct buses from Zagreb, second world war it has been part of Croatia. In that time Rijeka, Split, Trieste, Ljubljana, Belgrade and Venice. Italians fled to mother Italy and Pula was inhabited by Online timetables are listed at and . Croats. Although most of the population still consists of Croats there are lots of quite big minorities in Pula such There is also a train station near the waterfront with services serving Istria and into Slovenia due to historical as Serbs, Italians, Bosniaks and Slovenes. circumstance rather than back towards the rest of CroaMost tourists visit in the summer months, with most tia (though a connecting coach service operates for sertourist trips and restaurants closing between October and vices to Rijeka and Zagreb). Ticket prices, timetables May. and other information are on the Croatian Railways website.

16.2 Get in Map of Pula

Hitchhiking from Zagreb works very well. In Zagreb start from the petrol station after the “Billa” supermarket on the southside of the Sava river. In Rijeka ask people to drop you off at the little SOS stop after a pretty sharp right bend of the motor way around Rijeka. 59

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16.2.3 By sea Hydrofoil services operate from the wharf both around the Croatian coastline, and across to Venice. These are pricey, though provide a quick journey and provide some great views.

CHAPTER 16. PULA

fit it in the overhead compartment (which is rather small) or under your seat/legs..

16.4 See

Venezia Lines ferry connects Pula with Venice. It runs five times a week, travel time is around 3h.

16.3 Get around

The Roman arena.

•

Forum

For local transport you canuse theTaxi Service which has gotten cheaper since January 2012. There’s a company offering taxi services now for 15-20kn/5km. Search for Taxi Cammeo on every phonebook, or hail one of their vehicles down. Local, owner operated taxis are more expensive. Buses are known to be expensive (11kn per card, per person, per ride), however, if you plan on using the Pulapromet only, you should make yourself a BusCard. The BusCard is a electromagnetic ticket that you can fill with money and then use cheaper bus rides. The price of a buscard is 30kn but they usually sell them for 70kn since they are prefilled with 40kn you can use on the bus. The BusCard reduces drastically the price of the ride making it a 6kn per hour on the city lines (lines 1 to 9). Also, up to 5 people can use the same BusCard at the same moment, for the same bus. Also, the money on the BusCard is forever, meaning you can save it for the next time you come to Pula without fearing money loss. If you want to take a small backpack with you on an Autotrans bus, first ask the driver if this is OK before buying the ticket. Otherwise you might be refused entry on the bus and your ticket will not be refunded, even if you have bought it off the driver just 2 minutes earlier (the Brioni company seems OK -onboard small backpacks are allowed, but you have to insist.) All buses have a luggage area. The service is charged separately from the ticket and it usually costs 7kn. Every ticket can be refunded at the ticket office (a fee will be charged). There should be no problem taking a small backpack or a small suitcase on the bus as long as you can

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1 Arena (Roman amphitheatre ). The 6th largest surviving Roman amphitheatre. Towering over the nearby buildings this huge structure wasbarely saved from destruction several times during its life, mostly by various Venetians with plans to take it to Venice stone by stone as demonstration of the might of the Venetian empire. Many stones were taken to build houses and other structures around Pula, but fortunately this practice was stopped before the whole structure was destroyed. Entry gives you access to wander the inside of the Colosseum and visit the caverns beneath. The audio tour is very worthwhile. HRK20. 1 The Forum. The “Forum” is the main square in the centre of the city. The square is built on the site of the ancient Roman forum. On the square there is a city hall that was built in the 10th century (parts of an old temple were used for the building as it can be seen on the rear side of the hall) and the Temple of August, from the first century. Archeology Museum (HRK12). Zlatna vrata (Triumphal arch, 1st century BC), Dvojna vrata (Twin gate, 2-3rd century), Herkulova vrata (Hercules gate, 1st century BC).

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St. Francis church and monastery, 14th century

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Orthodox church, 6th century

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Kaštel, a Castle from the 17th century features Istrian history museum Malo rimsko kazalište, Little Roman theatre behind the Archeology museum

61

16.6. BUY

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Mornaričko groblje, Sailors’ cemetery (1866. about 150 000 soldiers of Austro-Hungarian nations were buried there) and Mornarička crkva, Sailors’ Church

16.5 Do

16.6 Buy •

•

Truffles. Istria is famous for its truffles and various truffle products. Malvazija and Teran. Autochthonous Istrian wine sorts.

•

Medica. A honey rakija ,

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Biska. A rakija with mistletoe.

16.7 Eat •

•

View of marina in Verudela

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•

Visit Brijuni. Group of islands famous for their scenic beauty. They are a holiday resort and a Croatian National Park. They were also setlement in roman times and were part of Republic of Venice. There is also now famous Tito (leader of former Yugoslavia) residence. Boats go from small town near Pula named Fažana . Go on Fish picnic. You can take a walk through local marina and check out timetables and prices. Prices are usually around HRK250 (€30) per person.

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Visit Pula Film Festival takes place in the Arena, 18-25 Jul. Walk down the Sergijevaca street where are many small shops, souvenir shops, bars and even sweet shops.

Restaurant Farabuto. Excellent light and delicious slow food. Restaurant Galeb. You won't find this one in any tourist guide, but everyone in the city knows the place: they serve best “chevapchichi” (minced meat, 2in long, 1/2in wide) in the city. Restaurant Gina. Excellent food in a unique setting that combines elegance with history. Restaurant Asterix. The best pizza in town. You should try the Asterix pizza, which means you can have a pizza divided into thirds, with a different set of toppings (kinds of pizza) on each one. Pizzeria Bambino. Good quality pizza and grill. Pizzeria Jupiter. Near Arena, the Roman amphitheatre - very good pizza.

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Restaurant El Pulari. A mexican restaurant.

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Restaurant Biska.

Spend a whole day on beaches of Kamenjak , near Premantura (8km from Pula). This peninsula is 16.8 Drink southernmost point of Istria, and features stunning landscapes and protected nature. Drinking is a pleasurable pastime in Croatia Discover abandoned Austro-hungarian fortresses , constructed just before WWI, when Pula was most fortified city in Europe. Some of those fortresses are 16.9 Sleep hidden in the forests, and some are now occupied by Pula residents for different purposes, including Tourist information can provide you with a list of accomPunta Christo, which operates as a summer club modation in Pula, although they will not make reservaand music festival venue . tions for you.

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CHAPTER 16. PULA

16.9.1 Budget •

calm part of Pula 150m from the sea and 3km from the beach. The spacious swimming pool in situated in our award winning garden (over 1500m2). Our apartments feature: SAT TV, microwave owen, coffee machine, and two apartments also offer a wash machine and air condition. We also offer free of charge the use of grill and bikes and a save place

1 Hostel Pipištrelo, Flaciusova 6 (na Rivi), ☎ +385 91 223-0769, e-mail: [email protected]. Located in the centre of Pula, close to the main town square forum, the rooms are individual mini art galleries and the whole hostel is a design project bursting with spirit. €17-23.50. •

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1 Pula Art Hostel, Marulićeva 41, ☎ +385 95 8466517. Small, family-run, newly refurbished art hostel in the centre of Pula. This hostel offers 2 fully equipped kitchens and beds for couples; grill on terrace; Free Wi-Fi; 24h access; Cable TV. €17-27. Youth Hostel. And youth camp. Not such a nice looking place, but it is situatedsome ten meters from the beach, so you can almost jump directly from your bedroom right into the sea. (To get there, take bus 2a from the city (3a to return) and get off at Zlatne Stijene then follow the signs.)

16.10 Go next •

16.9.2 Unclassified •

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Hotel Riviera (1-star). Fabulous looking hotel built in 1907 for the high-ranking officers in the AustroHungarian army. Never properly refurbished since then it is now showing its age, but structurally it is impressive and looks oh-so-grand from the outside. The rooms are currently decked out with 1960s/70s fittings (orange bed covers, brown wooden panelling, lime green phone), with the sparseness showingthelack of funds for upkeep. Havingsaid allthat, it’s clean, tidy, and comfortable. No doubt within a fewyears someone will make theinvestmentto bring it back to its former glory. Quite expensive for its facilities. Villa Mihaela. 3 apartments for 2-4 persons.Each of the apartments has a parking lot, and is equipped with air conditioner, SAT TV, and all other appliances that will make your stay pleasant. Apartments Alexandra & Erika, Kozada 12/a, Štinjan, Pula, ☎ +385 52 223505. Attractive apartments in the proximity of the well known Brijuni Islands national park. A quiet place in a family house, built in 2004. in Štinjan only a few kilometres away from the centre of Pula. Air-con, SAT TV, fridge with freezer, kitchen with all the accessories, cooking stove (electricity+gas), washing machine, balcony. Apartments with Swimming pool Slivar (Apartments pool Pula), Samagher 17 (veli vrh, Pula North). Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. 3 modern fully equipped apartments for 2-6 persons in a

Amfiteatar Hotel, Amfiteatarska (100m from the Roman Amfiteatar and the Marina ), ☎ +385 52375600. Small modern hotel with en suite, flat screen TV, A/C, free Wi-Fi and a top class restaurant. Conveniently situated for bus, rail and ferry, just 12 minutes from the airport.

National Park Brijuni - The beautiful Brijuni islands (also referred to as Brioni) stretch alongside the south-west coast of the Istrian peninsula. The national park offers too many attractions for all of them to be described here (dinosaur footprints, archaeological finds and sites, a little zoo, extremely rich flora and fauna, beautiful beaches, a former resort for European royals) so visit their website for more information .

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Rovinj, Rovigno

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Poreč, Parenzo

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Grožnjan, Grisignana

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Motovun, Montona

Chapter 17

Rovinj

Old town harbor

Rovinj

is to drive - the journey takes approximately 40 minutes. Although cars are not permitted in the old town, Rovinj is sufficiently small so that parking is available close to most of the city. Prices are around 2 HRK per hour (the park-o-meters accept only coins). There are also buses from Central Pula.

17.2.2 By boat

View of Rovinj at sunset

Venezia Lines is a high speed ferry company in the North Adriatic, linking Venice to the Istrian coast and in particular Rovinj. Departure (in season) every day at 5.00PM and arrival at 8.00PM.

Rovinj (Italian: Rovigno) is a city in Istria. The city is officially bilingual (Croatian and Italian).

17.3 Get around

17.1 Understand

The old town and the surrounding area are small, and are easily accessible on foot. Bicycle hire is quite inexpensive in Rovinj and there are very good cycle tracks up and down the coast.

17.2 Get in 17.2.1 By plane

17.4 See

Rovinj is served by Pula airport approximately 30 km The old town is best explored on foot. Worth seeing south. The easiest way to reach Rovinj from the airport are the original entrance into the city, the Balbi Arch; 63

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CHAPTER 17. ROVINJ

There are several other climbing areas in the region, but you need a car to get there: •

Limski Canal

•

Dvigrad

17.6 Buy

In the old town

the market at Valdibora; the cathedral of Sv. Euphemia; the artists’ street of Grisia, described as “Rovinj’s Montmartre"; and the harbour in the centre of the town. There are also taxi boats and excursions to St Katherine’s Island, in the harbour.

17.5 Do •

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The excellent market on Valdibora sells fresh fish straight from the boat; truffles and truffle oil; olive oil; plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables.

17.7 Eat Be sure to carry cash, as not all places accept cards, and in those which do, the feature is usually “temporarily out of order”. Many establishments close over the winter. •

Walk around in the old town. Climb the campanile of the cathedral of Sv Euphemia in the middle of the old town. Shop for truffles, olive oil, seafood or fruit and vegetables in the open air market, between 7am and 4pm.

•

Cycle there are miles of cycle tracks to the south through pine forest that follow the coast line. Cycle Hire is relatively cheap for good quality bikes. Swim right there, below the church you can clamber over the rocks and take a dive in the Adriatic. Rovinj Heritage Museum, Trg marsala Tita 11/52210 Rovinj, ☎ +385 52 816 720. 9am-3pm, 7pm-10pm (late opening, summer only). The Museum is housed in a Baroque palace that in the 17th and18th century belonged to the Califfi counts. It was founded in 1954 by a group of artists from Rovinj with the intention of collecting and exhibiting works of art. Today it serves as a town gallery and as a place where its rich bank of works of art is permanently exhibited. 15.00 HRK.

17.5.1 Rock climbing There is a big climbing area just half an hour by foot from the city centre (follow signs to the Park Hotel , then 10 minutes further down the road).

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Calisona, Trg Pignaton 1 (Opposite the museum ). Multilingual menu, with pizza, pasta, risotto, as well as speciality meat and fish dishes. Reasonable prices, excellent service. Sit and watch everyone go by, located just away from the crowded seafront squares. 40-120kn. Neptun, Joakima Rakovca. 11am - 10pm. Quiet, quirky restaurant specialising in seafood, pizzas and veal cooked in the peka - a slow-cooking method using live coals and a long-handled pan. You need to order two days in advance for this. main course 45120kn. Lampo, Sv. Križa 22, Rovinj. Great restaurant with nice waiters, the food is excellent and the view is stunning. Make some fun with the waiters, they will start to like you and serve you better. main course 45-120kn. Basilica, Cesta za Valaltu-Lim 5 ( Drive towards camping Valalta, and pay attentionto the right side of the road, there will be a big sign that says Basilica). A very good restaurant with excellent staff, the owner is called Dominic, a very friendly guy that only accepts new waiters that have been to a hotel school. So you can expect the waiters to clean everything that’s on the table, for example, if you extinguish one cigarette in the ashtray, they will get a new ashtray for you. The food is excellent and comes in good amounts. You should definitely try the steak, because Dominic also owns a steakhouse in New York and he uses the same recipe. main/high course 45200kn.

17.10. GO NEXT

17.8 Drink •

Cocktail Bar Valentino, Rovinj. Fantastic location by the sea with atmospheric under sea lighting and seating on the rocks. Unfortunately heavy sales pressure on arriving female customers to buy champagne, rude service and over priced chemical cocktails that havent seen fresh fruit.

17.9 Sleep •

Villa Baron Gautsch ( follow the signs to the Park Hotel located in the same street ), ☎ +385-52814042, fax: +385-52-840537. Nice guesthouse with very friendly personal. Clean, small rooms, single rooms available. Between 20 and 37 € per day and person including breakfast, depending on the season.

17.10 Go next Rovinj is well-placed for visiting the Limski Kanal (Lim Canal), where the film The Long Ships was shot. Excursions can also be made to the Brijuni Islands National Park, and to many of the other cities in Istria, such as Pula, Novigrad, Porec, Pazin, and Opatija. A slightly longer journey could take you to Rijeka; Izola or Piran in Slovenia; or Trieste in Italy, all of which fall within the ancient boundaries of Istria. There is a daily high-speed ferry during the warmer months to Venice from the harbour in Rovinj. The ferry takes about 2 hours and takes you to almost the centre of Venice.

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Chapter 18

Umag 18.2 Get in

Umag is a town in Istria on the Adriatic coast of Croatia.

18.2.1 By plane •

Trieste International Airport (45 km)

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Airport Pula (65 km)

18.2.2 By train •

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Rail Station Pazin (35) Rail Station Buzet (40)

18.2.3 By car Panorama of Umag •

From North:

Ljubljana -Kopar - Border Kaštel / Plovanija - Umag

18.1 Understand Umag is a picturesque small Mediterranean town - harbour, the Croatian gate to Europe, the first tourist destination you come across on arrival to the northern part of the Adriatic coast. Umag has excellent road and air connections with all large towns in the world (at only 50 nautical miles from the famous Venice!). It is located in an attractive bay with one of the most prestigious ACI marinas awarded the Blue Flag. Its natural beauties, the history and tradition of the old town of Umag and of the surrounding Istrian area, a warm Mediterranean climate with an abundance of sunshine during most months of the year and high quality hotels, campsites, apartments and bungalows make Umag an ideal vacation place for the whole family. The history of Umag is exceptionally interesting: In ancient times it was discovered by Roman aristocracy who adopted it for their summer residence.The town has preserved parts of the town walls and defence towers, Renaissance and Baroque houses and churches, the most famous among them being the parish church of the Assumption of Virgin Mary and the church of St. Peregrine. Umag is a widely known site of the international ATP tennis tournament, which has been successfully organized since 1990.

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From East:

Zagreb - Rijeka - tunnel Učka -Buzet - Buje - Umag •

From South:

Pula - Vodnjan - Bale - Sv. Lovrec - Porec - Novigrad Umag or Pula - Vodnjan - Bale - Sv. Lovrec - Baderna Vižinada - Buje - Umag

18.3 Get around •

Arena in Pula

The Arena in Pula, the Roman amphitheatre is located in the centre of Pula. It was built in 1st century BC and took its present form in 1st century when it could seat about 20,000 spectators. It served for gladiator fights that took place in it until 5th century.

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Brijuni Islands - national park

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18.4. SEE

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The Cretaceous Park with fossilized dinosaur footprints, Byzantine castrum and the remains of Roman villas, archaeological and natural-science collection, the exhibition “Josip Broz Tito on Brijuni”, the Mausoleum of Kupelwieser family are only some of the sights you should not miss. And while walking along the islands you will be accompanied by numerous tame bird species, deer, mouflons and other big game. Euphrasian Basilica – part of the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage

In the town of Poreč, near Umag, there is one of the most beautiful early Byzantine churches in Europe called Euphrasian Basilica after the bishop of Poreč who had this marvellous three-nave church built over the site of an older church. Of special interest are the impressive mosaics over the apse of precious stones and mother-ofpearl. •

Motovun walls

The walls surrounding the small medieval hilltop town of Umag - the old town Motovun present an invaluable cultural and historical heritage of Istria. The very well preserved old town core is Due to Umag’s stormy history the buildings from the Late surrounded by impressive defence walls. Antiquity and Early Middle Ages were completely destroyed. The present historical core has inherited the urban structure of the Middle Ages. There are numer Hum – the smallest town in the world ous reminders of that era: wall remains, Venetian villas According to the Guinness Book of Records, with its 23 and above all, picturesque narrow streets. The one that inhabitants, Hum is the smallest town in the world. It is is best preserved is also the oldest one – the west tower situated in the central part of Istria and famous for the now housing the Museum of Umag, keeper of a valuable Alley of the Glagolitic priests – a unique memorial to the collection of archaeological artefacts found on the site of the town of Umag. old Croatian Glagolitic script. •

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Lim Channel

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Church of St. Peregrine

Not far from Umag, on the Rosazzo promontory there is It is a geo-morphological phenomenon with overgrown a small, very old Church of St. Peregrine. It was built by canyon cliffs rising up to 150 m above sea level. With the inhabitants of Umag to mark the spot where, during its narrow, 11 km long inlet it represents one of the most the Diocletian era. beautiful landscapes in Istria. Lighthouse in Savudrija Nature Park Učka The oldest lighthouse on the Adriatic Coast built in 1818, 36 m high with the light visible from the distance of 32 The Učka mountain and its highest peak Vojak at 1401 kilometres. The construction of the lighthouse is conm offering breathtaking 360° panoramic view over the nected with a love story of Count Metternich, who alIstrian peninsula, north Adriatic islands, Gorski Kotar though married, fell in love with a local girl and had the mountains, Venice, Italian Alps... lighthouse built to her honour. •

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18.4 See •

Old town of Umag

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Sipar Promontory

Between Savudrija andUmag duringlow tides a small200 m long and 50 m wide promontory and a pile of stones

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CHAPTER 18. UMAG

rise from the sea: These are the only remains of the ancient Castle of Sipar from the 5th century. The town of Siparis existed here during the Roman era, a proof of this being the foundations of villas and houses, mosaics, marble, ceramic, urns and coins found in this location, all dating from the era of Constantine and Valerius. Sipar was totally plundered and destroyed in 876 by the Neretvian pirates led by the Ban Domagoj and never regained its previous significance. •

Villa Tiola

18.8.2 Resorts •

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A real paradise for divers! This luxury villa had its own Roman spa, water cistern, huge dwelling quarters lavishly decorated with mosaics on the floor and frescos on the walls. The remains of a pier measuring 30 metres in length and 6 metres wide are located in the sea near the villa, while the remains of an enormous construction can also be recognized, most likely a pool of another Roman villa.

18.5 Do 18.6 Buy 18.7 Eat 18.8 Sleep

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Hotel Meliá Coral. The first 5 stars hotel in Istria. Hotel Sol Umag. Elegance, details, style, relaxation... Hotel Sol Garden Istra. The sport & family hotel with an impressive water park. Hotel Sol Aurora - All Inclusive. Impressive natural surroundings and the interior provides the warmest Mediterranean atmosphere. Hotel Sipar. Waking up with a view of the open sea and to the sound of waves. Guest house - Komfor Adriatic. An unforgettable view of the whole town of Umag and its surroundings. Rooms for rent Moj Mir. Theplace where you can be yourself, sheltered from the rest of the world.

Sol Amfora. Sol Amfora apartments are in the centre of the Stella Maris Resort, a breathtaking seaside destination in Umag. Sol Stella. The most beautiful croatian beach Polynesia. The resort is bathed in sun and crystalclear sea, with a long beach at the very promontory. Kanegra. Entertainment, games, contests, cocktails, DJ music all day long, dancing till dawn in a new discotheque... Savudrija. The tourist resort is located near theoldest lighthouse on the Adriatic Coast from 1818, the history of which hides a tragic love story of Count Metternich of Austria.

18.8.3 Campsites

18.8.1 Hotels •

Meliá Istrian Villas. The cape stretching far into the open sea, where thegreen arches the clearness of the sea and the sun warms the beaches hidden from the rest of the world.

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Campsite Park Umag. Campsite Park Umag is one of the largest Mediterranean campsites. Campsite Finida. Peaceful, intimate atmosphere and secluded bays, providing a real experience of nature. Campsite Stella Maris. Modern campsite for families and individuals who enjoy active holidays and nature. Campsite Pineta. Protected from everyday noise, in the atmosphere of a picturesque fishermen’s village. Kanegra FKK. This naturist campsite offers natural holiday experience.


Chapter 19

Vrsar Vrsar is a millennia-old little town in Istria. Vrsar used to be a fisherman’s village, now more famous as a family tourist destination. Just off Vrsar’s coast lies one of the most beautiful Istrian archipelagos with 18 uninhabited islands.

business trip. Maistra features hotel Pineta and 6 resorts in Vrsar(Belvedere, Petalon, Funtana, Riva, Naturist park Koversada Villas and Naturist park Koversada Apartments). •

19.1 Get in 19.2 Get around

Camping Vrsar (Top campsites in Vrsar ), Obala V. Nazora 6, ☎ +385 52800200. Maistra’s campsites are awarded as best campsites in Croatia. All campsites are located near the sea and most of them also offer swimming pools. Campsites in Vrsar: Valkanela, Porto Sole andNaturist park Koversada Campsite.

19.3 See 19.9 Connect

19.4 Do

19.10 Go next 19.5 Buy 19.6 Eat •

Fancita, Dalmatinska 38. Beautiful bar and best pizza in all of Istra. They deliver, and the locals partake in it often as well.

19.7 Drink 19.8 Sleep •

Maistra Hotels & Resorts (Top Hotels & Resorts in Vrsar ), Obala V. Nazora 6, ☎ +38552800250. Enter the world of comfort, quality and style in Maistra hotels and resorts in two beautiful and colorful Mediterranean towns - Rovinj and Vrsar.

High-end accommodation, excellent service, the best amenities and our experience and expertise create a perfect blend with the surrounding area, turning our hotels and resorts into an ideal choice for a weekend getaway, holiday, active or Wellness & Spa holiday or a 69

Chapter 20

Slavonia Slavonia ( Slavonija in Croatian) is the northeastern region of Croatia, bordering Hungary, Serbia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina. (It should not be confused with the nearby country of Slovenia.)

20.1 Cities

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Sotin

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Pačetin

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Vera

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Borovo

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Jagodnjak

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Bršadin

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Markušica

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Belišće

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Bizovac

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Đakovo

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Ilok

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Osijek

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Nature park Kopački rit

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Požega

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Nature park Papuk

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Slavonski Brod

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Topusko

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Vinkovci

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Vukovar

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Županja

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Valpovo

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Beli Manastir

20.2 Villages •

Šidski Banovci

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Trpinja

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Bobota

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Negoslavci

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Nijemci

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Mirkovci

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Dalj


Liberland — a piece of disputed land on the bank of the Danube, proclaimed by a Czech activist as the Free Republic of Liberland

20.4 Understand Slavonia is a distinct region in terms of ethnological factors in traditional music.

20.5 Get in 20.6 Get around 20.7 See •

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The Kopački Rit is the biggest natural wetlands in Europe and the birdlife is spectacular. This enormous nature park, located around 15km north of Osijek where the Danube and Drava rivers flow into one another, is a great day out in the countryside though bring some insect repellent as the mosquitos do bite!! There is no public transport to the park, so take the local bus to Bilje and its a 2-3km walk.

20.12. GO NEXT

20.7.1 Itineraries •

Stayin Osijek, theprincipal city of Slavonia andvisit all the sights and cities around.

20.8 Do 20.9 Eat 20.10 Drink 20.11 Stay safe 20.12 Go next

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Chapter 21

Đakovo 21.8 Sleep

Đakovo is a small city in Slavonia, eastern Croatia.

21.9 Connect

21.1 Get in

21.10 Go next

The town is located on the railway line between Osijek and Doboj in Bosnia, and close to the E73 Highway (also known as the Pan-European corridor X). By train: Osijek, Zagreb, Budapest and Sarajevo By bus: good connections to Osijek, Zagreb, Vukovar, Slavonski Brod, Belgrade, Tuzla, and weekly buses to Salzburg and Zurich

21.2 Get around Walk! It’s a compact enough town and gives great opportunities to take in the sights on offer.

21.3 See •

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The large, imposing Cathedral Training of the Lipizzaner horses on the edge of the city (a great morning’s viewing)

21.4 Do •

Every year in July is the annual folk and embroidery festival which attracts visitors from far and wide.

21.5 Buy 21.6 Eat 21.7 Drink 72

Chapter 22

Liberland Liberland is a micronation at the eastern end of the towards Zmajevac (see By bus) or go by car straight into Croatian region of Slavonia. Liberland.

22.1 Understand

22.2.2 By train

There are no railways in Liberland Liberland, otherwise the Free Republic of Liberland (Czech: Svobodná republika Liberland ) , is a selfproclaimed micronation claiming a parcel of land on the 22.2.3 By car western bank of the Danube river between Croatia and Serbia, sharing a land border with the former. It is possible to reach Liberland by car as it is connected The piece of land on which Liberland is situated (locally to Croatia by road. Please note that it was reported that known as Gornja Siga or just Siga) is claimed by both roads are in bad condition, so it may not be possible to Croatia and Serbia (the latter being much less aggressive reach Liberland by car — in which case, you will be in putting forth this claim), but according to other sources forced to continue by foot. it constituted terra nullius (“no one’s land”) prior to the proclaimation of Liberland, and belonged to neither, due to an obscure agreement made prior to the changes of the course of the Danube. At 7 sq km (2.7 sq mi), Gornja Siga is larger than the two smallest nations on earth, Vatican City and Monaco (in fact, Siga is only a little smaller than three times the size of those two combined).

22.2 Get in

22.2.4 By bus There is no regular bus connection to Liberland; however, you can take a bus from Osijek to Zmajevac and then continue by foot or by bike. Bus connections between Osijek and Zmajevac are very infrequent, though — only twice a week.

22.2.5 By boat

It is not guaranteed one will be able to cross the border as It is possible to reach Liberland by boat from Serbia by crossing is often prevented by Croatian border guards, al- crossing Danube river. This is also believed to be the though you canstill try getting in as theborder isn't clearly safest method. marked and there is another way getting in from Serbia by boat which is reported to be more convenient.

22.2.6 By LSA assistance

There are reports of people attempting to enter the area being arrested by Croatian authorities. It’s possible to arrange help from Liberland settlement association (LSA), when crossing the border. To do so, you must follow the following obligations: - Contact LSA; 22.2.1 By plane e-mail: [email protected], phone numbers: +385 99 841 6836, +381 64 4276428, +45 29714935 - Visit LSA There is no airport in Liberland. However it is possible base camp in Serbia; From this Serbian village, Bezdan to fly to Osijek in Croatia as there is an airport serving di- can be reached by taking a road towards the Croatian vilrect flights from London twice a week, from Zagreb every lage Batina. Thecamp is located right beforethe Croatian weekday, from Dubrovnik every Thursday and from Split border. It’s about 3 kilometres from Bezdan. - After arevery Friday. Once you are in Osijek you can take the bus rival to LSA base camp you will be required to join LSA. 73

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This means that you will have to volunteer during your stay.

22.10 Sleep

Please note that LSA can't provide assistance to physically and mentally disabled persons. Persons without a valid passport and medical insurance also won't be given assistance.

If you are going to sleep in Liberland, bring a sleeping bag or tent. For LSA volunteers accommodation is provided in hotels in Serbia from €10 per person per night. Citizens can use LSA’s tents in Liberland.

22.3 Get around

22.11 Learn

The most convenient way to get around is by car or by foot.

22.12 Work

22.4 Talk

LSA is currently looking for people with knowledge of Serbo-Croatian, holders of driving and boating license and those who can contribute infrastructure. Contact Liberland settlement association for more information.

Official languages in Liberland are Czech and English.

22.13 Stay safe 22.5 See

As mentioned above, some travellers attempting to enter the area are known to get detained and fined by the There is not much to see in Liberland as the majority of Croatian authorities, on charges of violating the Croatian the land is covered by forest. There are reported to be border regime and unpermitted entry to the border zone. some abandoned chalets and small houses.

22.6 Do •

Nation building - Many who arrive by LSA assistance will most likely do some maintenance and building; otherwise, you can ask if any help is needed

22.7 Buy The Liberland Settlement Association sells chilli sauces and rakija (an alcoholic drink of the Balkans) made out of products grown in Liberland.

22.8 Eat If arrivingwith LSA, foodwill be provided freeof charge; otherwise, bring your own food.

22.9 Drink If arriving with LSA, drinks will be provided free of charge, including alcohol. If you arrive on your own, bring your own drinks.

22.14 Stay healthy 22.15 Respect 22.16 Connect If you arrive by LSA free wi-fi is provided. LSA will also assist with swapping to Croatian or Serbian SIM cards if needed.

Chapter 23

Osijek 23.2.1 By rail Rail services to Osijek terminate at the grand 1880s railway building at the bottom edge of the central town. In addition to the numerous train services operate each day to Zagreb (including the new, high-speed tilt train which completes the journey in around 3 hours), there are services to Koprivnica and Rijeka as well as other local services within Croatia to places like Slavonski Brod and Đakovo. The Croatian Railways has information on train times and tickets. The railway station is being renovated and modernised. There are daily connections with places in the city area. There are also daily connections to Bizovac spa.

Central square of Osijek (Trg Ante Starcevica)

Osijek is a city in Eastern Croatia. It is an important transport hub and the principal city of Slavonia.

23.1 Understand

23.2.2 By bus The bus station adjoins the train station and offers international as well as domestic services. Some of the many destinations on offer include Vukovar, Đakovo, Novi Sad, Belgrade, Pecs and Tuzla. Timetables, tickets and information are easily accessible. Panturist is the major bus operator out of Osijek and has listings of domestic and international bus travel - click on the vozni red icon. Central busstation is renovating andit will become thebiggest one in south-eastern Europe. Bus companies Panturist, Polet, APP, Croatiatrans and many other smaller companies are daily connecting the city with all parts of the country.

Due to its important location near the junction of the Drava and Danube rivers, this large and prosperous town (the fourth largest city in Croatia with a population around 120,000) bore much of the brunt of the recent conflict in the 1990s. Many fine buildings have been restored to their former glory, though do not be surprised to see some scars still remaining. Some buildings still have bullet holes or shrapnel markings in them, though like the local economy, the town is mostly back to where it was in 23.2.3 By plane pre-war days. Osijek is the largest city and the economic and the cultural centre of the eastern Croatian region of In summer months, there are flights with Croatia AirSlavonia, as well as the administrative center of Osijek- lines from the Adriatic coast from Split and Dubrovnik Baranja county. to Osijek Airport (located some distance from the city). This can be very useful to save back-tracking through to Zagreb once again, or the very mountainous and windy journey through Bosnia. Buses and taxis connect the airport with the city center and hotels. There is also a sec23.2 Get in ondary airport, used exclusively for sport and private flying purposes (Sport Airport Čepin). It is also used for Osijek is the major rail and road hub for all forms of exhibitions. When Pope John Paul II visited Croatia, this transport in eastern Croatia. was the place where the service was held. The annual 75

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car-show is also held at this airport.

city to traverse by foot with few hills.

There is now an international service by Germanwings to Cologne and other German cities. Ryanair has started servicing flights to the United Kingdom and Germany. Egyptian Lotus Air is starting services in summer 2009., connecting the city with the city of Hurghada.

23.4 See •

Kino Europa. - modernist architecture

23.2.4 By road

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Kino Urania. - secessionist architecture

Main highways pass nearby to Osijek from Zagreb through to Belgrade (Beograd), and the pan-European corridor Vc from Budapest through to Sarajevo will see a new motorway added to the Croatian network, construction to be completed by 2010.

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Europska Avenija ( Europe Avenue ). magnificent secession style buildings

Highway A5 or Slavonika wasopened 17.04.2009. It connects Osijek with the A3 highway which runs from Zagreb to the Serbian border. Driving to Osijek is easy with good signposting from all directions, and there is on-street as well as lot parking in the town.

23.3 Get around Osijek is divided into two main regions - the upper town (focusing on the city square, Trg Ante Starcevic ), and Tvrđa, the preserved fortress town to the east of the town centre along the Drava River. The whole city has 12 districts/blocks: Upper Town, Lower Town, Fortress, New Town, South 1, South 2, Green Field, Retfala, New Retfala, Industrial District, Tvrdjavica and The Left Coast. Osijek has a tram system dating back to 1884, and the three main lines connect the railway station, town square, Tvrđa, industrial district, all city borders (tickets can be bought from the driver, or you can purchase a BUTRAuniversal bus/tram card for unlimited riding). The network is currently being completely overhauled and more than doubled in length, and the city’s old trams are being modernized. Local buses fill the gaps where the trams Co-cathedral of St.Peter and St.Paul do not run and are quite frequent. A map of the local transport system canbe found on theTourist Board’s website. . You can also experience the ride with the oldest Tvrđa is the self-contained 18th-century Hapstram in Europe, which has been renovated for sightseeburg defensive fortress just east of the city cening tours. Buses are riding cca every 10-15 minutes in tre. This immaculately-preserved baroque military the city area, and every 20-25 minutes those which are compound, designed by Maximillian de Gosseau connecting the settlements around the city (Tenja, Sarvas, in 1721, contains many fine buildings to view by Visnjevac, Josipovac, Cepin, Vladislavci, Bilje, Darda, day, and at night becomes the hotspot with bars and Bizovac, Nemetin, Bijelo Brdo). clubs. Luckily there was no damage during the recent conflict to the site, ensuring great viewing and There are numerous bicycling routes all around the city, photos. Tvrđa is based around the main square, such as Donji grad-Bilje, Jug II.-Industrijska četvrt, and Trg Svetog Trojstva, and the Museum of Slavonia so on. is located here with artefacts throughout history as Taxis are serving the line within the main railway staearly as Roman times. There are also situated high tion/airport to the city center. schools, and university of Osijek. On the main Otherwise, it is fairly straightforward and well-designed square is also Archeological museum, and Music •

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23.5. DO

school. Fortress is also theplace for a good night-life with numerous bars, discos and restaurants. •

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Co-Cathedral of St Peter and St Paul This is the tallest church in Croatia and has a spire of 90m. The Co-Cathedral was planned by Josip Juraj Strossmayer, and the internal stonework is by renouned Austrian sculptor Hauser. The church contains many stunning stained glass windows and a large, fine-sounding pipe organ constructed by the Walcher firm of Linz, Austria. Co-Cathedral is often place for big concerts of classical and religious music. Croatian National Theatre, Zupanijska Ul. A beautiful building designed in 1886 and severely damaged in the recent conflict. A painstaking restoration has restored it to its former glory, though shortly afterwards a McDonald’s restaurant opened up on the ground floor. Shows, concerts and opera are performed weekly. Promenada is located along the banks of the Drava River and is a pleasant walk past the marina, cafes, and parklands. In the Winter port are also many bars, and the second tallest building in the city, Hotel Osijek (4 star hotel) Pejacevic Castle is located on the edge of the Upper Town and on the entrance to Retfala district. Part of the castle is owned by Little siters of St. Mary, and they will be delighted to show you the whole castle and around it. Do not be afraid of the dog in the yard, which is a pet of the nuns. There are around 10 sisters in the convent, with few candidates. The Municipal Park of King Petar Krešimir IV and the Tomislav Park date from the beginning of the 20th century, and are protected national landmarks. They are excellent place for a relaxing break after walking around the city. Church of St. Roch is a little church in the Upper Town, and it is the first Catholic church built after Ottoman Empire ruled the city. Churchof St. Michael is the second biggest church in the city, built in high baroque and royal style, by models from Vienna and Budapest. Priest lives right next door, and he will proudly take you inside the church, and explain everything about the past, style, and some interesting facts about the church. On the square in the front of the church can be seen traces where was before over hundred years ago a Muslim mosque.

Gate is a path to the Fortress walls which are surrounding 3/4 of the Fortress •

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Water Gate the only remained entrance to the Fortress from Habsburg Empire times. Near the

Zoo, Sjevernodravska obala 1, ☎ +385 31 285234, fax: +385 31 214784, e-mail: [email protected]. 9AM-5PM, tickets stop being sold at 4PM. The largest zoo park in Croatia, with lots of species of animals.

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City Area Administration Palace is situated just across thestreet fromtheCroatian NationalTheatre, quite near the main city square.

Visit the Franciscan monastery of St. Cross, situated in Tvrdja (Fortress). Franciscan monks will be delighted to show you the beautiful church, with interior decorated in high baroque style. They can also take you to see the rich monastery library. Franciscans are very, very polite and they will help you if you have any questions, not only about the monastery, also about the city. There are numerous shops and mall centres across the city, such as Esseker Centre, Emezetta, Ipercoop, Kaufland, Interspar, Mercator etc. Company Konzum has shops and market centres all around the city, and it is really easy to notice them. Go with a bicycle on a route from Osijek to village Bilje (cca 10km from Osijek), and explore the beauty of golden fields and green forests. NB! Pay attention on “Mine field” signs, and do not go in the forests on your own. Visit numerous festivals in the city: Osijek Cultural Summer; Autumn in Tvrdja; Osijek Beer Festival; UFO - Urban Fest Osijek; Kristfest; Festival of Tamburitza music If you would like to see some excellent folk dance shows, there are two very good folk ensembles holding concerts around not only the city and country, also in the world. HKUD “Osijek 1862.” and HKUD “Zeljeznicar” are one of the best folk ensembles in the country. Visit the open market place, right in the centre of the city. Explore the thrilling feeling while walking through a mass of people, sounds of offers to buy something, two grandmas arguing whose stuff is more better, sexier or with high quality. Visit the factory of chocolate “Kandit” which is one of the biggest in the country, and it is well known for the rich and full taste of candies and chocolate

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In summer time, refreshment can be found in the open-air swimming pools on a river beach called Copacabana, or Kopika. And thebest thing is, it is free. If you prefer closed swimming pools, there are also City pools, in the southern district of the city.

The specialty of Slavonia is undoubtably food.

With culinary influences from all directions, and a love of spicy food, Osijek has many great restaurants serving traditional Croatian cuisine. Two specialties of the area include riblji paprikas (fish stew with hand-made noodles) Osijek has one of the best night-life in the country. or kulen (spicy sausages). Going out to eat in restaurants Discos and bars are open during the day and night. in Osijek is often far better valuethan in other large Croatian cities, though for those who insist on self-catering there is a supermarket and an open-air market between the town square and railway station.

23.6 Buy •

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Handmade ethno souvenirs can be bought in a little shop “Rukotvorine” not far from the Croatian National Theatre. Antiquity shops and souvenirs shops are all around the city There are several traditional instrument shops around the city Traditional table cloths can be found on thecity market for a very low and reasonable price CD and computer shops are also situated around the city Clothes and shoes can be both in numerous shops around the city. For example: Mango, Castello, S.Oliver, WGW, New Yorker, Beneton, Armani, Esseker Centre, NAMA, and several underground shops, under the main city square Fresh and delicious food can be found on every open-air market place

23.8 Drink •

“Matrix Bar” (Fortress)

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“Q Club” (Fortress)

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“Strossmayer” (Strossmayer Street)

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“Kavana Waldinger” (Zupanijska Street)

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“Patrick Pub” (Fortress)

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“Luna” (Fortress)

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“Big Ben” (Fortress)

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“Oxygen bar”

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“S.Co.Bar” formerly known as famous Voodoo bar

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“Old Bridge Pub” (Fortress)

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“Bastion” (Fortress)

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23.7 Eat •

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Numerous pizzerias all around the city. Ones with a special atmosphere are El Paso in the Winter Port, and Galija on the upper coast of the river Drava

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Traditional food restaurants are situated mostly in the Fortress •

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Fresh bread and “burek” can be bought in every single bakery. Every single street has at least one bakery Leganini, Sv. L.B. Mandića 31, 31000 Osijek, ☎ +385-31 29 74 99. Open 08:00-22:00, Sunday: Closed. “Lega” means “pal” in the Osijek dialect. The motto of this “friendly café” is “Try something new,” meaning a sandwich wrap instead of čevapi or pljeskavica. The flat bread is made to order, then wrapped around your choice of meats, sauces and fresh vegetables. Located on the way into town on the route from Đakovo highway, this is a good place for a quick bite if you’re hungry after a long drive. They also deliver.

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“Vinoteka Vinita” (Strossmayer Street) Osijek has the oldest beer brewery in Croatia, which was founded in year 1687. Brewery is producing not only beer, but also non-alcoholic drinks. Price of one beer is cca 1.5-1.75 Euro (10-13 kuna) per bottle (0.5l). In every bar is a big menu of beers, domestic and imported ones. Bars and discos serve various drinks, from wines, whiskeys, traditional rakija, cocktails and etc. No age limit for bars or discos. Only for night-clubs

23.9 Sleep •

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Hotel Drava, I.F.Gundulića 25a 31000, Osijek, ☎ +385 31 250-500. Hotel Osijek, Šamačka 4, ☎ +385 31 230 333, fax: +385 31 230 444, e-mail: [email protected]. Hotel Osijek has got 140 rooms, and 7 apartments. The hotel is located on the river bank of the Drava river in the center of the city.

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Hotel Waldinger, Županijska ul. 8, Tel: +385 31 250 450 ( Fax: +385 31 250 453, E-mail: [email protected] ) . Hotel Central, Trg A. Starčevića 6, ☎ +385 31 283 399, fax: +385 31 283 891, e-mail: [email protected]. Hotel Central is located at the central square of the city. Zoo Hotel, Tvrđavica, ☎ +385 31 22 99 22, fax: +385 31 22 99 11, e-mail: [email protected]. As stated by the name the Zoo Hotel is located at the Osijek Zoo. Hotel Villa Ariston, Kačićeva 6, ☎ +385 Kopački Rit 31 251-351, fax: +385 31 251-350, e-mail: [email protected]. Hotel Ariston is located The town of Vukovar is less than an hour away and close to the bus and railwaystation. buses leave very regularly (almost every hour, 7 days a week). This town was completely blown up in the Hotel Villa Sveti Rok, ☎ +385 31 310 490, fax: recent conflict due to being on the border of Croatia +385 31 310 499. Sv. Roka 13. and Serbia and having a mixed-ethnic population, and provides the visitor with a fascinating (if not Hotel Mursa, B. Kačića 2/a, +385 31 207 640. sobering) view on the war. •

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Hotel Millenium, Kralja Petra Svacica 12, +385 31 53 13 30 Hotel Silver, Martina Divalta 84, +385 31 58 25 35 Franjevacka Guesthouse Maksimilian, 12 - Fortress/Tvrdja, +385 31 497 567, www.maksimilian.hr. Good value for the price. Pansion Regina, “Zupanijska 6, Osijek” - City Centre, Tel. +385 31 202 203 Fax. +385 31 202 030 Youth Hostel Tufna, Franje Kuhača 10/I, 1 slavonika, postanska 26,josipovac, ☎ +385 95 88 44 111, e-mail: [email protected]. Rent cheap whole house with many free services: Bikes fly rods computer in every room wi fi internet table-tenis darts solar shower chairs for sun grill (broiler, kettle, spit) parasol large table for a terrace various board games (chess, cards, jumbo, monopoly ...) vegetables (gratis basket ecologically grown vegetables from our greenhouses, in season) Badminton...

23.10 Go next •

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There are natural thermal spas just to the west of Osijek in the town of Bizovac. They provide much better value than spas closer to Zagreb or Varazdin, and see fewer tourists. The spa is easily accessible by train or bus.

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Đakovo and its enormous Cathedral are a half-hour to the south of Osijek. Besides the beautiful Cathedral which completely dominates the town, there are Lipizzaner horses being trained just on the edge of the city (a great morning’s viewing), and every year in July is the annual folk and embroidery festival which attracts visitors from far and wide. The Kopački Rit is the biggest natural wetlands in Europe and the birdlife is spectacular. This enormous nature park, located around 15km north of Osijek where the Danube and Drava rivers flow into one another, is a great day out in the countryside though bring some insect repellent as the mosquitos do bite!! There is no public transport to the park, so take the local bus to Bilje and its a 2-3km walk.

Chapter 24

Šidski Banovci The only problem is considerable unemployment and poverty of the villagers. Reason is still visible discrimination of Serbian minority by the regional authorities. However, as time goes on, things are slowly going in a positive direction. Banovci is one of the few places in Croatia that has retained its street names from the period of communist Yugoslavia. This was done at the express request of the villagers. For this reason, the name of the main street still bears the name of former Yugoslav President Josip Broz Tito, while other streets are named by prominent members of the anti-fascist movement during World War II. The best time to visit is spring when climatic conditions are favorable. Summer in this area have a big problem with mosquitoes, which do not transmit diseases, but Šidski Banovci is a small village in Syrmia (eastern they are real temptations. The doctor and mobile library Croatia), 10 miles south of the Danube River and near comes to Banovci once a week. Zip code of village is 32 the border with Serbia. Today most of the population are 247, mail order just in business days. Serbian members of the Orthodox faith. A sizable German minority that livedin the village before World War II mostly moved to Austria at the end of the war. Here you still can experience the traditional lifestyle of the Serbian minority in Croatia which has been maintained despite the modern way of life.

24.2 Get in

24.1 Understand

Banovci is well connected with regional centers.

Plane. Through the international airport Nikola Tesla Every year on the Orthodox Christmas Eve (January 6), in Belgrade (Serbia) and continue with bus (2 hours), or residents in the churchyard fallen bonfire. In this occa- through regional airport in Osijek (Croatia) and continue sion locals takes oak tree from the surrounding and make with bus (1 hour). the ritual fire. These nights the locals remember their old Train. Banovci is on the railway line between Zagreb Slavic religion and symbolically confirm Christianity. and Belgrade, and all local trains stop at the local railway In the rest part of year, villagers are organized around the celebration of New Year’s, Women’s Day, the day labor, on the occasion of the end of the school year, important religious holidays etc.

station. International trains stop at 8 km away Tovarnik (Croatia) or 20 km away Vinkovci (Croatia). Railways is the main route between Western Europe and the Middle East.

There areactive andthefootball club, pensionersclub, the Bus. Banovci are connected by direct lines with Protestant community and the Women’s Caucus, which Vinkovci, Vukovar, Osijek, Belgrade and Šid. also periodically organizes public events. Car. Banovci is ten miles north of highway ZagrebWhat describes life in Banovci it might be described as Belgrade. Regional roads have been repaired and are in living on a human scale. People are extremely friendly good condition. Some local roads are not in the best conand hospitable. Crime can be said not to exist in Banovci. dition. 80

24.11. GO NEXT

24.3 Get around Bicycle. You can visit nearby places on a bike. If you don't bring your own bike, you can always ask a local to lend one to you. He will probably give you a bike if you convince him of your good intentions. By foot. You can walk to two nearby villages that are within the 0.5 and 1 mile.

24.4 See The baroque Orthodox church dedicated to St. Petka. The church was built in the nineteenth century and was recently restored. Best time to visit is for Sunday morning worship when the church will surely be open. The church is open for all “important” saints, and can be opened at any other time by arrangement with the priest in Šid town (Serbia). There is an old mill, old local railway station, the old railway route and houses built in traditional Pannonian style.

24.5 Do 24.6 Buy There is only one shop that is satisfactory equipped.

24.7 Eat Try different kinds of dried pork, homemade cakes and organically grown fruits and vegetables freshly picked. You should try an alcoholic plum brandy called Rakija. Search for Balkan specialties such as pies, cheese, meat, potatoes, baklava, sarma.

24.8 Drink 24.9 Sleep Banovci not a tourist destination and hotel accommodation can be found only in the surrounding towns.


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Chapter 25

Slavonski Brod Slavonski Brod is a city in Slavonia located on the north bank of the Sava river. Its sister city Bosanski Brod lies on the south bank, over the State border in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Subotica (Serbia) and many cities in Bosnia. Direct lines are also available to and from many German, Swiss and Austrian cities: Munich, Vienna, Graz, Zurich (daily), Stuttgart, Cologne, Düsseldorf (twice a week). Buses are operated by Croatian bus companies and are reasonably reliable.

25.1 Get in

25.1.4 By plane

25.1.1 By car

Slavonski Brod is the largest city in Croatia without an international airport. The closest major airports are Zagreb and Belgrade. Osijek airport (approx. 100 km away) operates seasonal flights by Croatia airlines to Split and Dubrovnik and recently, German Wings flights from Other roads connect city to Pécs (Hungary), Osijek and Cologne/Bonn are also scheduled. Sarajevo. Slavonski Brod lies along the A3 motorway ( Autocesta) Zagreb-Slavonski Brod-Belgrade, which has been renovated which is an important route between South-Eastand Western Europe. The Autocesta is a toll-road

25.1.5 By boat Hitch-hiking

Although river Sava is suitable for sailing, it is currently You can hitch-hike onto the highway at the gas stations only used for freight traffic. However, ambitious projects on either side of the road in Brod or before the toll booth. are under way which would include tourist boats from other cities on the Sava river.

25.1.2 By train From Zagreb: Trains run several times per day. The ordinary fast train travels about 2 hours 30 minutes. Tilting Intercity train Slavonia is one of the best trains in Croatia, with seats of European standards, travels slightly over 2 hours and complimentary coffee is served on board. The difference in price compared to a regular intercity train is negligible (approx. 7 kunas = 1 euro), but the seats are often hard to get in the last minute on weekends. The passenger trains also run several times a day, but travel significantly longer and are not reliable.


The Franciscan Monastery

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The Brod Fortress

25.4 Do

From Belgrade: Direct lines from Belgrade are available (travel time approx. 3,5 hours). However, there is an option of changing trains at Vinkovci.

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25.1.3 By bus Several services operate to Slavonski Brod from any major Croatian city, as well as from Belgrade, Novi Sad, 82

Poloj is a sand beach on the Sava river, situated about 5-10 minutes drive from the city center. Locals swim in the river, but it is an imperative to remain cautious while being in the river, as this is a large and fast river. Greatest caution is advised to people who have no experience with swimming in rivers.The beach was not used for many years during and after the war and is now being renovated.

25.9. GO NEXT

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The ambitious plan includes many sport grounds, a and Osijek, famous for oneof the largest and most beautirestaurant and a bar. ful cathedrals in South Central Europe. Vinkovci, Vukovar - twin cities north-east of Slavonski Brod. Papuk - a Motorijada (Motor fest) is an annualbiker’s gather- hill 60 km nothwest of Slavonski Brod, a nature park and ing which takes place on a weekend around the day a popular recreational destination. Kopački Rit - a nature of the city (15th May). The fest lasts for two nights park famous for its bird life located at the confluence of (Friday and Saturday) and gathers many biker clubs Drava and Danube rivers. from Croatia, Bosnia and other European countries. The line-up consists of one very popular Croatian rock band per night and a number of Croatian demo bands. The accompanying events include a mix of international activities (such as mechanical bull riding) with a feel of Slavonian village gathering (tents with beer and food). The event takes place on Poloj, a beach on the Save river. Take a walk in the hills of Vinogorje, just north of the Autocesta, for example to Sjeme Panj Umjetnost Život .

25.5 Buy 25.6 Eat 25.7 Drink Even though it is not a 7-day-per-week party destination, city scene becomes wild and vibrant on a clear Saturday, especially during holidays. The reason is a large number of students from Zagreb and Osijek and a large number of people who emigrated from city, who regularly return to city for holidays. Currently the most popular clubs include Iguana, Alfa and Navigator, which play modern clubbing music and offer a range of drinks at arguably the lowest prices found in a major city in Croatia. For instance, a glass of juice-vodka would cost approx. 2 euros in Slavonski Brod and almost 4 in a club in Zagreb or on the Adriatic. Clubs usually work to 3 am, when the crowds usually move to Rupa (a rock club), Pivnica or Cezar. Other clubs are also available and their popularity varies. It is best to ask any young person in the street on a Saturday night about “in” places at the moment. Slavonski Brod also hosts two large turbo folk clubs: Navalis and Cezar (folk section).

25.8 Sleep 25.9 Go next Osijek - the largest city in the Slavonia region is a beautiful old city and an important cultural centre in Croatia. Đakovo - a smaller city half way between Slavonski Brod

Chapter 26

Vukovar Vukovar, The Hero Town is a city in Slavonia (eastern Croatia) along the Danube River. Although the city has a long cultural history, today it is most noted for its fate during thewar in theearly 1990s in theformer Yugoslavia and often called “The Hero Town”. It has been last and the only town in the Europe completely devastated since WWII. The Siege of Vukovar is famous among military analysts as 2,000 self-organized Croatian civilians and volunteers from all around the Croatia defended the town for 3 months against 40,000heavy armed Serbian soldiers and 110 tanks, resulting in a pyrrhic Serbian victory. The city was defended up to the last street and therefore it was a modern model of a Stalingrad battle.

around 3 miles north from the main area of Vukovar. There is a daily direct train to Zagreb at 3PM from Zagreb Central Station and returns 6AM from Vukovar.

26.1 Understand

26.4 See

The city has long had a highly mixed population of different ethnicities, including large numbers of ethnic Croats and Serbs. As a result it suffered greatly during the war between the Croats and the Serb-dominated Yugoslav National Army in the early 1990s. The three-month siege of the city in 1991 and the subsequent occupation by Serbia destroyed or damaged much of the city’s infrastructure and resulted in a massacre of Croatian population. As a result, it is difficult to find employment, and much of the population has left; around 30,000 still remain. Those who remain in the city live together nonviolently, although there is still animosity between ethnic groups. Today, it`s a living war and massacre monument.

The war damage is still very obvious throughout most of the city.

By bicycle: Vukovar lies on the EuroVelo VI route between Osijek and Ilok. By car: Highways lead to Vukovar from all directions.

26.3 Get around The town is best explored on foot. All the main areas of interest are within a short walk of each other.

Hospital: The hospital in Vukovar is the same one used during the siege of the city. Make sure to act politely and respectfully because after the “Fall of Vukovar”, the Serbian army dragged all wounded people (including children) and massacred them at the “Ovčara” site, making this building a living UN critic as UN forces located outside the hospital did nothing to prevent it. The aboveground portion of the hospital has been restored into a typical modern facility, but the basement area (which was the only part of the hospital used during the siege due to the continuous shelling of the above-ground parts of the hospital) has been made into a museum. The museum is very well-designed and gives a chilling feel of what the hospital was like during the siege. While you're in the 26.2 Get in hospital, if you're lucky you may see Dr. Vesna Bosanac, who was the hospital director during the war and still Consider traveling to Osijek by train or air, then proceed- works there and is regarded as something of a national ing to Vukovar (an hour’s drive). hero in Croatia because she saved many lives. By bus: The city has direct bus connections with Osijek Tank Graveyard Street: A location of one of a greatest (approximately every hour), Zagreb (numerous times a battles in Europe. In the time of a siege Serbian army, day), Ilok and Vinkovci, and daily to Sombor and Novi equipped with 110 tanks tried a breakthrough with tanks Sad in Vojvodina (Serbia). There are also seasonal buses against a lightly armed Croatians led by national hero to the Dalmatian coast and cities in Germany. Blago Zadro, but it resulted in a greatest tank destruction By train: Infrequent trains operate to Vukovar from site ever, with tanks mostly being destroyed on many unOsijek and Vinkovci. The station, Borovo-naselje, is conventional ways . Today, although rebuilt it still gives 84

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an unexplaineable chilling feel of a battle, and one tank is left as a memorial.

26.6 Buy

Museum: The museum in Vukovarplaced in thebaroque Eltz castle, is horribly damaged from the war, but it is still in use, and there are plans to reconstruct the museum in 2009. Aside from the war damage, the museum has various exhibits to see. Many of the pieces are archaeological artifacts, including a right-footed ceramic shoe from several thousand years ago (Vučedol culture) that the museum staff seem to be particularly proud of. The museum also periodically exhibits paintings from the Bauer collection which is considered one of the more significant collections of Croatian modern art.

26.7 Eat Local specialities are based around smoked pork meat and freshwater fish. Smoked meat : Be sure to try šunka (smoked ham), kulen and švargl (check Wikipedia for details).

Fish dishes : The Danube area in Croatia has very strong tradition in fishing and fish based dishes. Be sure to try the spicy fish soup which is very commonin Slavonia. But also try to get your hands on some smoked catfish stakes Ovčara massacre site: The Ovčara field is a short drive or šarani u rašljama (carp baked in wooden forks over from the main area of Vukovar. After the fall of the city an open flame) which are more traditional to the Danube to the Serb-dominated Yugoslav National Army, the Serb subregion of Slavonia and Sriem. soldiers gathered 200 of the hospital’s doctors and injured Other dishes : čobanac and paprikaš (meat stews) patients and massacred them in the Ovčara field. Today at the massacre site there is a memorial and a nearby mu- Local cuisine tends to be very spicy dueto extensive useof red paprika, so if you don't like hot food ask in restaurants seum. to make your food less spicy. Cemetery: The cemetery has the graves of many who died during and after the siege. At the center of the Cakes and sweets : There’s a funny thing called poderane cemetery is a memorial statue. The statue has a symbolic gaće (Torn underpants) which are made from pancakeflame at its center, and the stones present the image of the like dough and are sweetened with sugar or honey. There Christian cross facing outward in all directions. While are numerous cakes and pies indigenous for the region but walking among the graves, there are several interesting they can rarely be found in restaurants. It’s best to ask things to consider: Graves labeled 'Hravtski Branitelj' are the locals, people are very friendly and very hedonistic in the graves of untrained volunteers who helped defend the regards to food so they might just invite you for a treat. city. People who died after November 18 were usually tortured to death. There are also many graves where you can see that an entire family died on the same day. 26.8 Drink Crkva Sv. Filipa i Jakova: This is the main Catholic cathedral in the city. It is the 3rd longest church in Croatia and also has the 3rd most significant library in Croatia with several books (incanabulae) from the 15th century. It was horribly damaged during the war. There have been slight reconstructions since the war (Namely, a simple roof was added in order to keep out the rain. The church also has a new organ.), although the cathedral is generally the same as it was in 1998. The walls of the church still bear many holes frommortarshells andgrenades, and there is still graffiti that was left by the Serb soldiers, including images of Orthodox Christian crosses and a slogan that translates into English as “God forgives. Serbs don't.” If you have extra time and money, you may want to hire a Croatian translator and arrange a visit with the priest, as he is extremely knowledgeable about Vukovar, the siege, and what occurred at the cathedral during the siege. As it is placed on a hill over the Vukovar centre it has a great lookout over the city and the Danube river.

26.5 Do Walk the streets. It’s as moving as visiting any war museum!

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. Try the local beer, Vukovarsko pivo.

26.9 Sleep There are hotels in Vukovar; however, they are somewhat expensive. You may choose to visit Vukovar as a day trip and then sleep in a nearby city such as Osijek.

26.10 Go next Osijek and Novi Sad are about an hour’s travel away.

Chapter 27

Dalmatia Dalmatia is the southern coastal region of Croatia on the Adriatic Sea.

27.1 Regions •

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Northern Dalmatia – lots of small islands and deep, connected inland, comprising the counties of Zadar and Sibenik-Knin Split-Dalmatia – the county of central Dalmatia, with several bigger islands, mountain ranges close to the coast, and rivieras such as Makarska Riviera, with some sandy beaches in addition to long pebbly Lakes in Dalmatia beaches Dubrovnik-Neretva – the county of southern Dalmatia, a narrow strip of land around Dubrovnik, with weak connection to inland (Herzegovina, in another country Bosnia and Herzegovina)

27.2 Cities •

Dubrovnik — historic “Pearl of the Adriatic”, one of the tourist highlights of the Mediterranean

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Brač

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Hvar

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Korčula

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Mljet

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Murter

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Pasman

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Makarska — the main beach resort town on the Makarska Riviera

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Omiš — old city

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Šibenik — city with famous cathedral

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27.4 Understand

Many inhabitants of Dalmatia are zealous Catholics and they don't mind to brag. So don't be surprised if out of Split — historic city with famous centre and Roman the blue someone is waving a crucifix in your face talking palace about eternal fires etc. Trogir — historic town and harbour Zadar — ancient city with Medieval churches and Roman remains

27.5 Get in


Most travelers come in through highway A1 Zagreb-SplitRavca (next to Ploce and heading Dubrovnik). The highway is modern, fast and safe.

Islands:

Split and Dubrovnik have international airports and seaports. 86

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27.6 Get around 27.7 See Dogs called Dalmatians

27.8 Do •

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Dalmatia Trekking ( Unique adventure and activity holiday agency specializing in walking, trekking, photographic holidays in Dalmatia - Croatia ), Gundulićeva 22, Split Croatia, ☎ +385958173156. Explore Croatian islands, mountains and coastline. Full service - Professional guides - Culinary Specialities Active Holidays d.o.o (Activity and adventure travel expert in Croatia, since 1989 ), Knezova Kacica Omis. First travel agency specialized in activity travel. Different travel options that will satisfy all age groups. Meridien Ten, Obala Ivana Zajca 7, 21000 Split, ☎ +38521388951. Bike and active travel. Rent a bike or take on of our self guided bike tours and travel Dalmatian coast on bike. Great hybrid, road and tandem bikes available.

27.9 Eat 27.10 Drink 27.11 Stay safe 27.12 Go next

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Chapter 28

Krka National Park Krka National Park is one of the Croatian national parks, named after the river Krka that it encloses.

28.1.1 History Krka NationalPark is the seventh national park in Croatia and was proclaimed a national park in 1985.

28.1 Understand 28.1.2 Landscape 28.1.3 Flora The Krka National Park belongs to the Southern European (Mediterranean and sub-Mediterranean) region. Due to its special position and the mosaic distribution of various types of habitats, it is characterized by exceptionally rich and varied flora and fauna. Eight hundred and sixtyspecies and subspecies of plants have been identified within the territory of the Krka National Park, including several endemic Illyrian-Adriatic species. Krka river

28.1.4 Fauna Eighteen species of fish inhabit the Krka River, among which ten are endemic, making the Krka a natural landmark of the highest category. Brown trout and Dalmatian Barbelgudgeon are a couple of fish that can be found in the ecosystem. Patches of reeds, lakes formed along part of theriver andswamped meadows aboundin amphibians and birds, while thickets and stone quarries are home to reptiles. The abundance of various species of birds (222), the structure of the bird communities and the great significance of the Krka for spring and autumn migrations make it among theornithologically most valuable regions of Europe. There are numerous carnivorous birds in the area, notable ones are: Osprey, Short-toed Eagle, Golden EaView towards the former hydroelectric power plant gle, Bonelli’s Eagle, Lanner Falcon and the Peregrine FalThe park is located along the middle-lower course of the con. Other birds of interest are Eurasian Eagle-owl, EuKrka River in central Dalmatia, in Šibenik-Knin county, ropean Bee-eater and Griffon Vulture. downstream Miljevci area, and just a few kilometers Among the mammals, there are 18 species of bats, which northeast of the city of Šibenik. It was formed to protect are generally endangered or near extinction in the rest of the Krka River and is intended primarily for scientific, Europe, Long-fingered Bat, the Daubenton’s Bat, and the cultural, educational, recreational, and tourism activities. threatened European Otter. 88

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28.1.5 Climate

provides a shuttle service from there down to thewaterfalls at Skradinski buk . Out of season cars are allowed to descend down up to the parking lot near the Skradinski buk . (updated Oct 2016)

28.2 Get in •

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1 Roški slap. For a waterfall and tripper boats to Krka monastery , and fortresses of Trošenj and Nečven. (updated Sep 2016) 1 Burnum. For the archeological site of Burnum. (updated Sep 2016) 1 Kistanje. For Krka Monastery and tripper boats to Roški slap waterfall and fortresses of Trošenj and Nečven. (updated Sep 2016)

The Krka river and a bridge at the park’s border

28.3 Fees/Permits 28.2.1 By bus • •

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1 Skradin ( by intercity buses from Šibenik , Zadar , Split , Zagreb (some also make a stop at the Plitvice Lakes National Park ) or by regional buses from Šibenik (see for Skradin in Županijski vozni red schedules), then take a park’s ferry ). Perhaps that’s a better option than Lozovac as Skradin itself is a nice-looking town and a trip to the park will include a short journey by a ferry. (updated Oct 2016)

1 Nacionalni park Krka (Krka National Park ), Šibenska ulica, Skradin. Jun-Aug 08:00-20:00; May, Sep 08:00-19:00; Apr, 1-15 Oct 08:00-18:00; Mar, 15-31 Oct 09:00-17:00; Nov-Feb 09:0016:00;. Price Jul-Aug 150 HRK; Apr-Jun, Sep-Oct 110 HRK; Nov-Mar 30 HRK. (updated Sep 2016)

28.4 Get around

Lozovac (by a city (zone II) and regional buses from Šibenik . It’s worth checking if the bus stops right at 28.4.1 On foot the park’s entrance otherwise you'd need to walk 1.5 km from the main road to there ). NB: out of season The core of the park, Skradinski buk in particular, is easy there is no public transportation from Lozovac down to be explored on foot. to the park’s waterfalls. (updated Oct 2016)

28.4.2 By boat 28.2.2 By car •

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Remains of a Roman amphitheatre at Burnum

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1 Lozovac. The main entrance for tourist groups and individuals traveling by car. In season the park

1 Skradin ferry. Apr-Oct; Mar-Nov depends on weather. Park’s ferries run between town of Skradin and the pierat the 1 Skradinski buk entrance. The boats run every hour from 08:00 (09:00 late autumn or early spring) till 18:00 in summer (finishing earlier other times). Returns are scheduled at 30 min. past every hour. The last departure from Skradinski buk is 1.5 hour later than the last boat from Skradin. Free — no ticket is required. (updated Sep 2016) Tripper boats to Visovac, Roški slap, Krka monastery and the Trošenj fortress (see #Boat trips). Boats Stinice - Visovac - Remetić (see #Boat trips).

28.4.3 By bus •

Shuttle bus between Lozovac entrance (see above) and Skradinski buk (see below).

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CHAPTER 28. KRKA NATIONAL PARK

28.5 See

28.6 Do

Skradinski buk Visovac island •

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Map of the Skradinski buk site

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1 Swim. In the lower lake at the Skradinski buk. Despite being officially designated swimming area it doesn't have anything arranged for that: no changing booths, nothing to safe go down, so be prepared. Otherwise that’s apparently a wonderful experience. NB: Swimming only is allowed at this designated place. (updated Sep 2016) Hike the trails Cycle the cycling trails, but bear in mind that cycling is not permitted on the walking trails

28.6.1 Boat trips

1 Skradinski buk (Skradin waterfall ). Considered the major attraction of the park. It is a pleasant cascade of lakes and waterfalls which is close to the both main entrances. (updated Sep 2016) 1 Visovac (by a trip boat from Skradinski buk, also by boat from nearby villages Stinice and Remetić ). It’s a beautiful island with a Franciscan monasteryon it. The monastery is a place of pilgrimage. (updated Sep 2016) 1 Roški slap (waterfall cascade). (updated Sep 2016) 1 Oziđana pećina (cave) (close to Roški slap ). (updated Sep 2016) 1 Manastir Krka (Krka Monastery) (close to village of Kistanje). (updated Sep 2016) 1 Burnum archaeological site. Remains of Roman Roški Slap (waterfall) amphitheatre and some other excavations. (updated Apr-Oct only: Sep 2016) 1 Burnum - Manojlovac waterfalls. (updated Sep 2016)

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Skradinski buk – Visovac island. 2 hours, including 1/2 hour at Visovac 100 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

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28.11. STAY SAFE

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Skradinski buk – Visovac island – Roški slap . 4 28.11 Stay safe hours, including 1/2 hour at Visovac, 1 hour sightseeing of Roški slap 130 Kn. (updated Sep 2016) It’s prohibited to wander and swim in the river. Bbesides it’s dangerous per se it also destroys fragile travertine (cal Stinice – Visovac. Mo-Sa 10:00, 11:00, 12:00, cium carbonate) structures at the river’s bottom and wa13:00, 14:00, 15:00, 16:00; Su 9:30, 10:00, 10:30, terfall’s rapids. 12:00, 13:00, 14:00, 15:00. 35 min, Visovac (30 min) 50 Kn. (updated Sep 2016) Remetić– Visovac. Mo-Sa 9:45, 10:45, 11:45, 12:45, 13:45, 14:45, 15:45; Su 9:45, 10:15, 10:45, 12:15, 13:15, 14:15, 15:15. 35 min, Visovac (30 min) 50 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

28.12 Go next

Roški slap - Krka monastery - Trošenj - Nečven. 2.5 hours, Krka monastery (30 min) and view from the boat of Trošenj and Nečven fortresses. 100 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

28.7 Buy Yachts on the river Krka on their way towards Šibenik after vis-

Souvenir shops at the both sides of Skradinski buk and at iting the park the entrance at Lozovac.

28.8 Eat •

•

Šibenik

•

Knin

1 Buffet Kalikuša ( at the south side of Skradinski And nearby towns: buk waterfalls). The location is very touristy. Quality of food and service is rather moderate, but the Scradin - see the local tourist office for further insetting is magnificent: at the site of an old mill next formation to a small waterfall which used to feed the mill. (up Drniš dated Oct 2016) •

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•

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1 Buffet Stari mlin (Next to Skradinski buk entrance). (updated Oct 2016) 1 “Kristijan” agrotourism ( close to the boat pier at Roški Slap). (updated Oct 2016)

28.9 Drink There is no nightlife in the park.

28.10 Sleep There is no accommodation inside the park, but there are plenty of options for accommodation in the town of Skradin and village of Lozovac, and there is also a hotel close to the Roški slap .

Chapter 29


Turquoise-colored lakes

Nacionalni park Plitvička jezera (The Plitvice Lakes National Park) in Croatia is considered to be one of the most beautiful natural sights in Europe. Due to its beauty and significance, this system of 16 interlinked lakes and a large forest complex around it were set aside as a national park in 1949. In 1979 the park was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Large Water Fall, near Lower Lakes

29.1.1 History

Galovac Lake

29.1 Understand

Humans have inhabited the Plitvice Lakes area for thousands of years. It has been settled in turn by Illyrians, Thracians, Celts, Japods, Romans, Avars, Slavs and Turks. In 1528 the area fell to the Ottomans before being retaken by the Austrian Empire 150 years later. The Austrians subsequently incorporated it into their Military Frontier and, in addition to the native Croats who already inhabited the region, Serbs who had fled Ottoman repression settled there.[citation needed] The Plitvice Lakes had became a major tourist attraction in the late 19th century. The first hotel was built there in 1896, and as early as 1893 it already had a conservation committee - the predecessor of today’s national park 92

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authority. In 1949 the communist government of Yugoslavia nationalized the lakes and made them a national park. The park was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979 in recognition of its “outstanding natural beauty, and the undisturbed production of travertine (tuff) through chemical and biological action”.

distinctive feature. The lakes are separated by natural dams of travertine, which is deposited by the action of moss, algae and bacteria. The encrusted plants and bacteria accumulate on top of each other, forming travertine barriers which grow at the rate of about 1 cm per year.

Thelakes are renowned for their distinctive colours, rangThe park soon became one of Yugoslavia’s most popular ing from azure to green, grey or blue. The colours change tourist attractions. However, in March 1991 it became constantly depending on the quantity of minerals or orthe scene of the Plitvice Lakes incident - the first armed ganisms in the water and the angle of sunlight. confrontation of the Croatian War of Independence that The lakes are divided into the 12 Upper Lakes (Gornja resulted in fatalities. The park was held by forces of the jezera) and the four Lower Lakes. Republic of Serbian Krajina during the conflict and suffered some damage in the process, with hotels and other facilities being used as barracks. At auto-camp Grabo- 29.1.3 Flora and fauna vac there was massacre of civilians (three children) by the Yugoslav Army in September of 1991[1]. It was retaken The Plitvice Lakes national park is heavily forested, by the Croatian Army in August 1995 during Operation mainly with beech, spruce, and fir trees, and features a Storm, which ended the Croatian war. mixture of Alpine and Mediterranean vegetation. It has The war led UNESCO to add the parkto its Listof World a notably wide variety of plant communities, due to its Heritage in Danger. Due to the economic importance of range of microclimates, differing soils and varying levels the park, the Croatian government made it a priority for of altitude. its de-mining efforts, and in December 1998 UNESCO The area is also home to an extremely wide variety of anrecognised the park’s newly mine-free status by remov- imal and bird species. Rare fauna such as the European ing it from the list of endangered sites. However, the sur- brown bear, wolf, eagle, owl, lynx, wild cat and capercailrounding Plitvice municipality outside the park boundary lie can be found there, along with many more common still has some problems with mine contamination. species. At least 126 species of birds have been recorded there, of which 70 have been recorded as breeding there.

29.1.2 Landscape 29.1.4 Climate

Walkway leading into the forest

The lakes are situated on the eponymous Plitvice plateau, between the mountains of Lička Plješevica (Gornja Plješevica peak 1,640 m), Mala Kapela (Seliški Vrh peak at 1,280 m) and Medveđak (884 m). The sixteen lakes are separated into an upper and lower cluster formed by runoff from the mountains, descending from an altitude of 636 m to 503 m over a distance of some eight km, aligned in a south-north direction. The lakes collectively cover an area of about two km², with the water exiting from the lowest lake to form the Korana River.

Fish in Galovac Lake

The area knows a mountainous land climate, with hot summers and cold winters. Although generally cooler than coastal Croatia because of its altitude, sunny days in summer get very hot with temperatures up to 35°C. As there are few opportunities to buy refreshments in the park, visitors should bring plenty of water along for rehydration. In the evening, occasional thunderstorms can unleash large amounts of rain in a short time, so make The Plitvice Lakes lie in a basin of karstic rock, mainly sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast to avoid bedolomite andlimestone, which hasgiven rise to their most ing surprised by heavy rain in the absence of shelter. The

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many calm streams in thepark may quickly transforminto Zadar bus at 5pm, a taxi driver will be waiting 15 minutes wild water torrents, so stay away from the water in case early to attract customers, and when arriving at Zadar, if of heavy rain. your are going to take the ferry, the driver might leave In winter, heavy snowfall can be expected, enabling the you near the pier. Mukinje Ski Resort to operate from December to early March. Fog is common in the morning and can occur very locally, making driving up and down the often narrow roads in the park hazardous.

29.3 Get around

29.1.5 Tourist information •

Nacionalni park Plitvička jezera, Josipa Jovića 19, Znanstveno - stručni centar “Dr. Ivo Pevalek”, HR 53231 Plitvička jezera, ☎ +385 53 751 015, e-mail: [email protected]. 07:00-20:00. Aug 180 HRK; Apr-Jun, Sep-Oct 110 HRK; NovMar 55 HRK; 2 days cards 90, 180, 280 HRK respectively; discounts for students (an ISIC student card is required) and children; tickets sold at the both entrances and they are also valid for park’s internal buses and ferries. (updated Aug 2016) Cascades of Plitvice

29.2 Get in 29.2.1 By bus Some buses from Zagreb (83 HRK) and Zadar or Split take a route along the road which passes by the park entrances. Ask the driver beforehand to make a stop at the either park entrances: 1 entrance 1 or 1 entrance 2. Among theother direct connectionsareBiograd na Moru, Vodice, Šibenik, Primošten, Trogir and even Novalja (island of Pag). Also there is a direct bus connection to the Krka National Park. Keep in mind that buses in Croatia often do not run on time. They can come early or late, and either way they stop only long enough to pick up riders and then continue on their way. Especially in a place like Plitvice, which is quite a distance from other stops on a bus route. So get to the bus stop early and plan on waiting for awhile. Bus schedules are usually posted at the tickets office at the both of the entrances, but bear in mind that they may not reflect seasonal changes.

29.3.1 On foot Thepaths near the entrance of thepark are extremely well maintained and it is a relatively short walk (about 1 hour) around the nearest lake. Paths, mostly made of wooden planks or gravel, will take you through the whole park. In most places they are wide, but since the park is extremely well visited they can feel very crowded during the day. The park have made some different routes through the park so it is easy to choose how much you want to or have time to see. A walk from one end of the park to the other normally takes around 4h, but due to the unique views the park offers it is a shame to be in a hurry. Take your time and enjoy it. As told elsewhere both buses and boats are free so it is possible to plan a walk zig-zagging up or down the lakes and the many waterfalls, and then not have to walk back the same way.

Many of the paths can be used by disabled persons, but since there is a few steps here and there is some height 29.2.2 By taxi differences between the lower and the upper lakes it will Taxi drivers will await near the bus stations and will of- take a strong helper to get around with a wheelchair. fer to drive for the same price of the bus ticket if around 10 persons are willing to take the taxi. It costs the same, takes an hour less and most probably they wouldn't charge for the extra baggage (The bus service charges extra). If 29.3.2 By boat the taxi driver is kind enough, he will also provide something like a tour guide and will leave you close enough to 2 lines of small electric ferries connect far banks of the your destination. If for example you are waiting for the Jezero Kozjak , a bigger lake close to the entrance #2.

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29.3.3 By bus 2 shuttle bus lines run along the lakes (which are useful to take you up hills and to the entrances). The costs these buses and ferries are included into the entrance ticket.

29.4 See Plitvice Lakes National Park is perhaps the most beautiful natural wonder in Croatia. In addition to the numerous waterfalls, a bevy of wildlife can be seen, including fish, frogs and a variety of bird species. Special attractions at Plitvice include the Veliki Splat, a 100 foot waterfall surrounded by nearby boulders to which tourists have access. There is also a large waterfall complex that can be access via a cave in the surrounding rock face.

29.5 Do The main attraction is obviously the hiking and walking in the area. Keep in mind that swimming is not allowed anywhere in the park.

ing shoes are required. Not recommended for children. (updated Aug 2016) Tip: If you arrive at the same time as a big group, walk one of the very well established routes in reverse. You'll probably be walking uphill for most of the trek, but you'll probably not see another person for a few hours. NB: Walking trails through the park, most of which are along the shores of the numerous lakes, are rarely steep. However, expect to climb a substantial fraction of your visit, and especially in the hot summer months this can quickly lead to dehydration. Few opportunities to buy drinks are available in the park, and the drinks sold at stands are expensive, so visitors are advised to bring the necessary water along with them into the park. Between 1 and 2 liter of water per person per day is advised. A hiking backpack is essential to comfortably carry water over long distances.

29.5.2 Boating •

29.5.1 Walking •

1 Plitvička Jezera Boat Rental, Plitvička Jezera National Park. 09:00-19:00. Rental service for wooden rowing boats, 60 kn per hour. Visitors can explore Kozjak lake and its numerous waterfalls from the water front. Fresh water snakes can often be found sunbathing on tree trunks along the water. Note that it is not allowed to swim or fish in the National Park. Although it is possible to cross Kozjak lake, the boats must be returned to the pier where they are rented. (updated Aug 2016)

1 Upper Lakes, Plitvička Jezera National Park. A series of smaller lakes and waterfall cascades between Proscansko lake and Kozjak lake. Numerous walking trails lead visitors around the lakes. The lakes can be reached from Entrance 2 by crossing 29.5.3 Hiking Kozjak lake with a ferry, which is included in the admission fee. Alternatively, a shuttle bus can be A few hiking trails are described at park’s web page and taken to the highest lake and then descended back to their flyers. the ferry terminal by foot to avoid the climb. There are good indications of walking trails in the park, so a map is not necessary. (updated Aug 2016)

29.5.4 Skiing

•

•

1 Lower Lakes, Plitvička Jezera National Park. A series of lakes below Kozjak lake, carved out in a canyon. Walking trails lead visitors around and over the lakes. The Lower Lakes can be reached from Entrance 1, or from Entrance 2 after traversing Kozjak lake by ferry, which is included in the admission fee of the park. The largest waterfall (Veliki Slap) can be found near Kaluderovac lake. (updated Aug 2016) 1 Šupljara cave, Plitvička Jezera National Park. A cave system between Gavanovac lake and Kaluderovac lake. Stairs are carved out into the rocks, allowing visitors to ascend up to the canyon ridges, or descend down to the hiking trails along the waterfront. The stairs are moist and steep, so good walk-

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1 Ski Center Mukinje, Mukinje 55, Plitvička Jezera. In winter, the Ski Center of Mukinje is open, offering skiers 3 slopes with a total length of 1 km. Primarily targeted at beginners, the lift is located in the center of the town. Ski equipment can be rented locally. (updated Aug 2016)

29.6 Buy Numeroussouvenir shopscan be found near theentrances of the park. Caution is advised however, as many overpriced souvenirs sold as “authentic hand crafts” from Croatia are in reality made in China.

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1 Robni Centar, D1, 53231, Plitvička Jezera, ☎ +385 53 751 099. 09:00-20:00. Supermarket selling a variety of drinks, cooled and uncooled. The most common bottled water of Croatia is JANA, available as mineral water or in many flavored versions. Around 5 - 10 kn per bottle. (updated Aug 2016)

29.7 Eat The park itself offers few opportunities to buy food, with the exception of food stalls and restaurants around the entrances and ferry terminals. A large picnic area can also be found near the ferry terminals. All restaurants are managed by the park authority, and the food quality they serve is low compared to the prices they typically charge. Restaurants in the numerous hotels at the park entrances suffer the same problem. Visitors are advised to bring their own food into the park if possible (and of course, take the trash out as well!). The neighboring villages offer better eating opportunities, but require a short walk from the park entrances.

Water, water everywhere

29.9.1 Lodging Several large hotels have been built near Entrance 2 of the park. These largely cater to middle or high class European tourists. Expect to pay very high prices for the luxury of spending the night close to the park entrance.

Alternatively, private house and apartment owners in the nearby villages of Mukinje and Jezerce, both on walking distance from Entrance 2, offer rooms for better prices. A local specialty are pancakes, which are typically served In addition, visitors will have the chance to explore the with Nutella or ground walnuts. Prices between 15 and lifestyle of rural Croatia and meet with local inhabitants. 25 kn. Most restaurants or konobas have them on their OpenStreetMap provides an overview of private guest menu in the desert or snack section. houses and apartments in the area. •

1 Bistro Vučnica, Mukinje 55, 53231, Plitvička Jezera, ☎ +385 51 751 282. 07:00-22:00. Midrange restaurant in the center of Mukinje, on a 15 minute walk from park entrance 2. Large selection of fresh pizzas for 60 - 90 kn. The largest pizza size is meant for 2 to 3 people. Indoor and outdoor seating available. (updated Aug 2016)

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•

1 Guesthouse Bor, Mukinje 59, 53231, Plitvička Jezera. A small guest house in the center of Mukinje, next to the skiing facilities and the only bistro of the town. 80€. (updated Aug 2016) 1 Miric Inn, Jezerce 18, 53231, Plitvička Jezera. A small inn, offering mid-range lodging. A bus connection leads to the entrances of the park. (updated Aug 2016)

1 Robni Centar, D1, 53231, Plitvička Jezera, ☎ +385 53 751 099. 09:00-20:00. Supermarket selling drinks, energy bars, croissants and local pastries for breakfast or lunch, or bread and a wide variety 29.9.2 Camping of toppings. Fair prices. Conveniently located on the shortcut path leading from Mukinje to Entrance There is also a camping site in the nearby town, mostly used by people visiting the park. Facilities are fine, good 2 of the park. (updated Aug 2016) clean toilets, a small shop, and a couple of dining places. Camping can be made wherever you want; it is possible to choose a place between the trees, or a cosy hole in the 29.8 Drink hills or a more open place with a magnificent view. •

Nightlife — none

29.9 Sleep There is a travel agency at the entrance to the park. From here, you can organize for a homestay. There are numerous locals who will rent bedrooms in their house and provide food for a competitive price.

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1 Cvetkovic Camping, Cvetkovic, D429, Mukinje, Plitvicka Jezera. Camp site 10 minutes from the park entrance. A bus stop at the main road takes guests to the park entrance. (updated Aug 2016)

As long as you are staying at the camping site, your ticket to the park can be renewed for free at the information office. It’s a good way to spend more time at the park and visit it outside the busier hours. Parking at the park

29.11. GO NEXT

is free, but if you don't want to drive the camping site arranges buses to and from the park in the main season.

29.9.3 Backcountry The National Park is a restricted area, limiting the opportunities for backcountry lodging. Firewood gathering and campfires are prohibited, just like fishing and berry gathering. In addition, areas outside the National Park boundaries may still be contaminated with land mines left over from the Croatian Independence War, making it dangerous to wander into the forests and leave the marked roads.

29.10 Stay safe It’s worth noting that this area is one of the only remaining regions of Europe where bears roam. It would probably more interesting than dangerous to see a bear, but were you to surprise a mother and her cub because you did not expect to see bears at all, you could be in danger. A lone bear is more frightened of you than you are of it. Yell and bang something that makes loud noises, and the bear will almost always run off. Bears can run and climb faster than you can, and running signals “prey,” so don’t run.

29.11 Go next •

•

•

Zadar, a port city and destination of many of the long distance coaches traveling through the Plitvice area. Rijeka, the largest city in the Kvarner region. Split, the second largest city of Croatia and home to another UNESCO Heritagesite, Diocletian’s Palace.

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Chapter 30

Dubrovnik-Neretva Dubrovnik-Neretva is the southern portion of Dalmatia and the southernmost county of Croatia. It consists of a narrow strip of land along the coast, the long Peljesac peninsula and a number of islands. The coastal strip is not contiguous – it is split in two by a 9 km stretch of Herzegovina, part of the country of Bosnia and Herzegovina, around the town of Neum.

30.1 Cities

and seasonal flights from many more European cities.

30.5 Get around Driving between the northern and southern portions of the county requires passing through Neum in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sometimes your passport will be checked, sometimes not.

Dubrovnik – historic “Pearl of the Adriatic”, one of the tourist highlights of the Mediterranean, and seat of the county

30.6 See

Cavtat – town south of Dubrovnik founded by the Greeks in the fourth century BCE

30.7 Do

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Klek – tourist village in the north

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Komarna – tourist village in the north

30.8 Eat

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Lumbarda – village on the island of Korčula

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Metkovic – second largest town, in the north

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Orebić – port town on Peljesac peninsula

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Ploče – port town in the north

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Ston – village at the base of the Pelješac peninsula

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30.9 Drink 30.10 Stay safe 30.11 Go next

30.2 Islands •

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Korčula – the most populated island on the Croatian Adriatic coast Mljet – part is a national park

30.3 Understand 30.4 Get in •

Dubrovnik Airport has year-round flights from Frankfurt, London, Paris, Rome, Zagreb and Zurich 98

Chapter 31

Cavtat Cavtat is a Croatian city with a long history. Founded by the Greeks in the fourth century BC under the name of Epidauros, after the city of the Peloponnese.

31.6 Buy

31.1 Understand

31.8 Drink

31.7 Eat

The town changed its name to Epidaurum when it came under Roman rule in 228 BC. During the civil war between Julius Caesar and Pompey lined up in favor of the first and was besieged by Octavius, but was saved by the arrival of the consul. Later became a Roman colony and was occupied during the Gothic Wars from the fleet sent by Justinian.

31.9 Sleep •

When the city was sacked by the Slavs and Avars just before the 614, people took refuge on an island nearby which later united with the mainland, gave rise to the city of Dubrovnik. From that moment Cavtat was always under the control of powerful neighbour. The modern Croatian name for the city reveals the ancient origin and the link with Dubrovnik: Cavtat is a derived from Civitas Vetus, the name by which the Dubrovnikans called their old city.


Today Cavtat is a popular tourist destination, with many hotels and private homes that rent rooms and apartments. The seafront is filled with shops and restaurants.

31.2 Get in •

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Hotel Croatia, Frankopanska 10, ☎ +385 20 475 777, fax: +385 20 475 793, e-mail: [email protected] . High standard 5* hotel overlooking Cavtat and the coast. Wireless internet throughout.

Dubrovnik Airport is much closer to Cavtat than it is to Dubrovnik. A ferry boat connects the town to neighboring Mlini and Dubrovnik.

31.3 Get around 31.4 See 31.5 Do 99

Chapter 32

Dubrovnik 32.1 Understand The city of Dubrovnik (Latin: Ragusa) was built on maritime trade. In the Middle Ages it became the only citystate in the Adriatic to rival Venice. Supported by its wealth and skilled diplomacy, the city achieved a remarkable level of development during the 15th and 16th centuries. Furthermore, Dubrovnik was one of the centres of the development of the Croatian language and literature, home to many notable poets, playwrights, painters, mathematicians, physicists and other scholars.

The Old Harbour at Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik is an old city on the Adriatic Sea coast in the extreme south of Croatia. It is one of the most prominent tourist resorts of the Mediterranean, a seaport and the centre of the Dubrovnik-Neretva County. Its population is about 43,000 in 2011. Dubrovnik is nicknamed “Pearl of the Adriatic” and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Today Dubrovnik is the proudest feather in Croatia's tourist cap, an elite destination and one of the most beautiful towns in the Mediterranean. Dubrovnik used to be an independent republic, surviving mostly on trade. It managed to survive many centuries, with constant threats to its territory, particularly from themighty Ottoman Empire and Venice. As early as the 19th century, it was discovered by celebrities as a place to be seen. George Bernard Shaw once said that “those who seek paradise on Earth should come to Dubrovnik and find it”. Royalty, presidents and diplomats have all favored the city. The late Pope John Paul II was a fan of Dubrovnik and was even made an honorary citizen. Out of the 23 top luxury hotels in Croatia in 2010, 13 were located in Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik is steeped in stunning architecture and sculptural detail, and boasts spectacular churches, monasteries, museums, and fountains. A multitude of typical towns and excursions include: The Elaphiti Islands, the attractive town of Cavtat,the Konavle valley, Mljet Island, Korčula Island, Ston and Peljesac Peninsula. The neighbouring towns of Kotor and Perast in Montenegro or Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina also make for intriguing day trips.

32.2 Get in 32.2.1 By plane Dubrovnik within Croatia

Dubrovnik airport (IATA: DBV) is about 20 km to the south of the city. The following airlines operate flights to/from Dubrovnik 100

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32.2. GET IN

kn. Going to the airport a bus aims to leave the main bus station 2 hr before each international flight, and costs 35 kn. Departure times are also displayed in the tourist information office at Pile Gate. The bus passes close to the Old Town en route to the airport and you can board this bus at the bus stop on Petra Kresimira 4 just above the Old Town, by the lower cable car station. Make sure you wave furiously otherwise the driver may not stop.

32.2.2 By train Bokar Fortress

There is no train to Dubrovnik. A narrow gauge line used to link Dubrovnik to Sarajevo but was closed in 1976.

The closest rail station is at Ploče, less than 2 hr by bus from Dubrovnik. From there, you can connect to trains Aer Lingus (Dublin-seasonal), Aeroflot (Moscow - to Mostar and Sarajevo. Trains to points north can be seasonal), Air Berlin (Munich-seasonal, Stuttgart- boarded at Split, a 4 hr bus ride from Dubrovnik. seasonal), Air Serbia (Belgrade-seasonal), Austrian Airlines (Vienna), B&H Airlines (Sarajevo-seasonal), Bmibaby (East Midlands-seasonal), British Air- 32.2.3 By car ways (London-Gatwick-seasonal), Croatia Airlines (Amsterdam, Athens, Belgrade-seasonal, Düsseldorf, The trip from Split along the coastal road (Jadranska Frankfurt, London-Gatwick, Munich, Paris-Charles magistrala or D8) is a beautiful scenic journey through de Gaulle, Pula, Rome-Fiumicino, Split, Tel Aviv, small, quaint villages and other tourist destinations. Just Vienna, Zagreb, Zürich), DanubeWings (Bratislava), know that in the summer months the trip is likely to take EasyJet (Berlin-Schönefeld-seasonal, London Gatwick- several hours longer than anticipated. What looks like a seasonal), Geneva-seasonal, Liverpool-seasonal, London short trip on a map can take 6 hr. Gatwick-seasonal, Milan-Malpensa-seasonal, Paris- A much faster way of simply getting from Split to Orly-seasonal), Estonian Air (Tallinn), Finnair Dubrovnik by car is to take the A1 highway to Ploče and (Helsinki), Flybe (Birmingham-seasonal, Exeter- then continue via Opuzen and Neum to Dubrovnik. seasonal, Southampton-seasonal), Germanwings (Berlin-Schönefeld, Cologne/Bonn, Hamburg), Iberia Airlines (Madrid-seasonal), Iberia oper- 32.2.4 By bus ated by Air Nostrum (Valencia-seasonal), Israir (Tel Aviv - seasonal), Jetairfly (Brussels-seasonal), The main bus station is in Kantafig, near Port Gruz and Jet2.com (Belfast-seasonal, Edinburgh-seasonal, the Tudjman bridge, 2.5 km northwest of the Old Town. Leeds-seasonal, Manchester-seasonal), Lufthansa Local bus 7 operates between this station and Babin kuk, (Munich), Luxair (Luxembourg), Monarch Airlines and bus 1 serves Old Town. (London-Gatwick-seasonal, Birmingham-seasonal, Manchester-seasonal), Norwegian Air Shuttle (Bergen, Direct buses run to/from Zagreb (205-234 kn, 11 hr, 7 Oslo-Gardermoen, Stavanger, Stockholm-Arlanda, daily), Korčula (100 kn, 3 hr, 1 daily), Mostar (100 kn, 3 Trondheim, Warsaw),Tarom (Bucharest - Henri hr, 2 daily), Orebic (100 kn, 2.5 hr, 1 daily), Rijeka (400 Coanda, seasonal) Thomson Airways (London Gatwick, kn, 12 hr, 3 daily), Sarajevo (160 kn, 5 hr, 1 daily), Split London-Luton, Manchester-seasonal), Turkish Airlines (100-150 kn, 4.5 hr, 14 daily), Zadar (200 kn, 8 hr, 7 (Istanbul-seasonal), Vueling (Barcelona-seasonal), daily). In the high season, there is also a daily bus leaving at 11AM going to the Montenegro cities of Herceg Novi, Wizzair (London-Luton-seasonal) Bar, Kotor, and Budva. And at 15h to Prijedor and Banja The exact list of destinations and airlines, especially the Luka (10h) in Bosnia. A one-way trip to Budva costs 128 low-cost ones, changes each year, but there is always a kn, or €15. The return tickets are much cheaper and adyear-round service to/from Zagreb and seasonal sched- visable, just look out for the choice of the bus company. uled and charter flights to/from many other airports in When coming by bus from Split or cities further north, Europe. police officers may board the bus and you may be asked for a valid identity document when crossing the Airport bus transfers Croatia Airlines operates buses Neum corridor which belongs to Bosnia and Herzegovbetween the airport and the main bus station in Kantafig ina. While the bus companies list trip duration of approx. (45 kn, 45 min), which is 2.5 km northwest of the Old 4 hr, be prepared for a ride of closer to 5.5-6 hr, including Town. Taxis from the airport to the centre will cost 320 Bosnian border checks. Airport:

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When travelling into Montenegro and the Airport sit on the right hand side (not behind driver) for best views, and vice-versa for the return. Travelling to Bosnia, sit on the left hand side (behind the driver) for best views. A departure listing for the international bus station is available at the website of the city bus operator. Further details can be found online

•

From Bari in Italy. The dull engine vibration or the swaying of the boat from high winds are likely to keep you awake. Cabins are strongly recommended. Although you can sit comfortably enough insidewith the cheaper deck pass, interior temperature is 16⁰C or below and makes for a chilly night even in the height of summer.

On all intercity buses you pay a separate fee of €2 or 10 kn to the driver for luggage. So keep some change ready.

32.2.5 By boat

32.3 Get around ?'"ÙNIQ--maplink-00000000-QINU`"'? Map of Dubrovnik The Old Town can be comparatively difficult to navigate

St. John Fortress

Cruise ships •

Many cruise ships come to this port of call, typically docking at the Port of Dubrovnik (Port Gruz) across from the main bus station, 2.5 km northwest of the walled old town. The easiest and cheapest way to get from the main bus station to the Old Town is by using the local buses number 1, 1A and 1B, which circulate almost constantly. Some cruise ships anchor offshore just east of the Old Town and tender the passengers directly into the Old Port. In 2010 over 900,000 cruise ship passengers visited Dubrovnik.

Ferries Stradun

Jadrolinija •

From Rijeka Ferries run up and down the coast. Calling at Split, Stari Grad, Korčula and Sobra on the way. Journey time is up to 20 hr, so consider getting a cabin. The restaurant serves up some decent food at surprisingly reasonable prices, but bear in mind that the +23% tax is not included on the menu. While the journey is scenic there is nothing in the way of entertainment. Come prepared with a good book or just sit on the deck and watch the Adriatic Sea go by. This is more than enough entertainment for an afternoon.

on first appearances, as it really is a warren of little streets. There are however signs at the entrances to many of these streets advertising what businesses, shops, restaurants and accommodation are to be found in that direction. That being said, some of these signs appear to be either intentionally misleading or woefully out of date. For example, there is no office of any bus company within the Old Town, despite what the signs may say. The city is completely pedestrianised and easily small enough to get around on foot, some of the streets are a little steep though.

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32.3.1 By bus If you are not staying in Old Town, it’s relatively simple get there by bus, as just about every one leads to the Old Town. However, it might be advisable to get a timetable just in case. It costs 12 kn (just over €1.5) for tickets bought at any kiosk,or 15 kn bought on the bus; ticket valid for 1 hr. At selected kiosks (including the international bus station) you can purchase a day pass for 30 kn. This pass is valid for 24 hr of unlimited travel on the city bus network, starting from the first validation. The easiest way to get from the Main Bus Station to the Old Town is by using the (mostly modern and air-con equipped) buses number 1, 1A and 1B, which circulate almost constantly. These buses canbe boarded from thebus stop just outside the Main Bus Station. Apart from this, there is another bus service which comes inside the bus station and drops you directly at the Old Town. Schedules are available at the information counter of the Main Bus Station.

officially opened by raising a flag carrying the city’s motto Libertus on Orlando’s staff. •

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32.3.2 Car rental • •

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A Marker Car Rental (Airport Shuttle Service Dubrovnik ), Svetog Djurdja 6-Pile Gate-Old Town, ☎ +385917397545, fax: +385 20 418730, e-mail: [email protected]. Airport transfers, car, motorbike and scooter rental. From €32 per day.

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Kompas Rent a Car, Kardinala Stepinca 52, ☎ +385 20 436 541, fax: +385 20 436 571, e-mail: [email protected] . EasyRent, Uz glavicu 7, ☎ +385 98 1952 114, fax: +385 20 773 953, e-mail: [email protected]. Cars from €22 per day.

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Airport and City Transfer

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Cheap Dubrovnik Tours

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32.4 See Dubrovnik was heavily bombed in late 1991 during the Croatian War of Independence (part of a series of wars in the region). Almost all of the damage has been repaired; however, if you look closely around the old town, mortar damage in the cobblestone streets and bullet marks in the stone houses are visible.

32.4.1 Old Town • •

Roland’s Column ( in front of the Bell Tower ). A slender stone flag staff of the legendary knight. Also known as Orlando’s Column. Ever since its foundation in 1950, the Dubrovnik Summer Festival is

Bell Tower (after the Ploče entrance to the city ). On top of the tower are the famous 'Zelenci' (The Green Ones), bronze statues which strike the gigantic bell every hour. They have been recently replaced with copies and the originals are in the atrium of the Sponza Palace. Sponza Palace ( West of the Bell Tower ). Gothic Renaissance palace, one of the few buildings that has maintained its form from before the catastrophic 1667 earthquake. Hosts historic archives. Memorial room of defenders. Open 10:00-22:00. 20 kn Rector’s Palace, Pred dvorom 1, ☎ +385 20 321 437. Formerly the palace of the Major Council, now houses a museum dedicated to the city’s history. War Photo Limited, Antuninska 6. Open 09:0021:00. An exhibition centre of war and conflict photography. Exhibits change during the season. Stunning images by world renowned photo journalists. 1 Pile Gate (Vrata od Pila ), at the western end of the Placa Thoroughfare (Stradun) (Old town). A convenient starting place for your stroll through the Old Town is the Pile Gate. Before entering the Old Town, Fort Lovrjenac, the first among many sites worth seeing in Dubrovnik, provides a good view of the Old Town and its wall. Placa Stradun (Old town). The Stradun (Placa) is the central street of the city of Dubrovnik and is the place where the old city comes to life. During the day, explore the shades of the perpendicular streets and alleys on its sides, and during the night, take walks up and down the Stradun with an ice-cream in hand. The uniform Baroque architecture of the houses in Placa, with shops on the street level and their 'knee-like' entrances, got its present-day form in the restoration of the City taking place after the disastrous earthquake in 1667, when a large number of luxurious Gothic and Renaissance palaces had been destroyed. The architectural design of Placa reveals effective solutions and the business sense of the Dubrovnik Republic in those difficult times. Today, Placa is still the shopping centre and venue of major events. Big Onofrio’s Fountain. In the western (Pile) entrance of the old town, The fountain stairs are nowadays a favourite meeting place for local youth and where both the tourists and pigeons take rest and refresh themselves with cool water.

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Old Port. The eastern part of the Old Town of Bokar Fort is situated on theseawardof City Walls. It was Dubrovnik; some cruise ship passengers are ten- designed by Florentine architect Michelozzi in the 15th dered to the Old Port. century. Hours: 08:00-19:00 summer, 10:00-15:00 winter, daily. Fort Lovrijenac. 9:00-17:30. The monumental Entrance fee to the walls: 120 kn for adults, 30 kn for fort rises above 37 m high rock. It changed roles children and 30 kn for students with a valid student card. in the course of history. The main purpose of its construction was defence, and the main idea was to protect the freedom of Dubrovnik. Not much re- 32.4.3 Churches mains in the way of historical artefacts but the fort Franciscan Monastery, Placa 2, ☎ +385 20 321 gives spectacular views back upon the walled city. 410. 09:00-18:00.. This beautiful monastery with 30kn, or free by showing your City Walls ticket. Baroque Church, houses a Romanesque cloister and the third oldest pharmacy in the world. Aquarium. 08:00-21:00. 30 kn. •

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1 Visia Dubrovnik 5D Theatrum, Poljana Paska Miličevića 4 (in the Convent of St. Clare, on the right side at the beginning of Stradun through Pile gate), ☎ +385 20 324-714, fax: +385 20 324-714, email: [email protected]. 09:00-20:00. Virtual reality technology guides visitors to Dubrovnik through the history and cultural features of the city and wider Croatia.

32.4.2 City walls

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Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, Kneza Damjana Jude 1, ☎ +385 20 323 459. M-Sa 08:00-20:00, Su 11:00-17:30. This impressive building is in the Poljana Marin Držić. Supposedly, the original church was built with money donated by Richard the Lionhearted who survived shipwreck on his way home from the Third Crusade. The current Roman Baroque cathedral dates from the 18th Century. Church of Saint Blaise (Crkva Svetog Vlaha) . Baroque Church dedicated to the city’s patron saint.

Walk on the walls around the old town, great views. It is highly recommended to visit the walls during the early morning hours or the late afternoon hours during midsummer months as it can become hot. Dubrovnik is surrounded by City Walls which are 2 km long and for which it is famous all around the world. Through the history City Walls were protection from the enemy, today Dubrovnik City Walls brings the visitors from the whole world who want to see this city- museum. There are 3 entrances to theCity Walls: on Stradun by the Pile gate, by fort Saint John’s and at the Custom’s House gate. Within the City Walls you will see Fort Minceta and Fort St. John’s on the south-eastern side. Also, within the City Walls areFort Lawrence at Pile and Fort Revelinat Ploce. The main entrance to the City Walls is by the Inner Pile Gates. Minceta Fort is one of the most beautiful cultural attractions in Dubrovnik. It is situated on the northwest side of the city inside the City Walls. It was built according to the design of Renaissance builder Juraj Dalmatinac. St. Luke’s Tower you canseewalkingalong thelandward side of City Walls up to PloceGate. St. Luke’s Tower has protected the entrance to the Dubrovnik harbour throughout the history of the city. St John’s Fort was constructed in 16th century and it is really worth of visiting- on its ground floor you can visit the Aquarium, and on first and second floor you can visit Maritime Museum. (more about it at theend of thepage).

Inside the Church of St. Ignatius

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Church of St. Ignatius and the Jesuit College (On an elevated square close to the southern edge of

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32.4. SEE the Old Town ). Mass held in English daily at 11:00 in the summer.. Ornate Jesuit church, approached via a romantic baroque staircase modelled on the Spanish Steps in Rome (1738). Built between 1667 and 1725 by architect Ignazzio Pozzo, and like most Jesuit churches of the period was modelled on the Gesù in Rome, the mother church of the Jesuits. •

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Sephardic Synagogue is supposed to be the secondoldest still in use synagogue in Europe today. A permanent Jewish community here was founded at the end of the 15th century following the expulsions from Portugal and Spain. The Jewish Ghetto was established in 1546 on Jewish Street in the old town of Dubrovnik. The community flourished and included respected doctors, merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restrictions on their activities at certain points in history. The synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside information on the history of the Jewish community in Dubrovnik.

Dominican Monastery. Open 09:00-18:00. This is an exceptionally valuable historiccomplex, which, besides its religious purpose, also represents the important artistic treasury of ancient Dubrovnik. Church of St. Sebastian (by the Ploče gate). 15thcentury church built by the Ploče gate since St. Sebastian is the saint protector against plague. Serbian Orthodox Church andMuseum of Icons [Pravoslavna crkva i Muzej ikona]. Built from 1865-1877, stands behind impressive wrought iron gates. Houses a number of icons, mainly Byzantine and Cretan. Museum next to church has extensive icon collection. Church admission: free; Museum admission 5-10 kn.

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32.4.4 Museums Some museums offer a discount ticket if you visit more than one museum. For example its 40 kn for the Rectors Palace, 45 kn for Rectors Palace and Ethnographic museum, and 50 kn for Rectors Palace, Ethnographic museum and Maritime museum. You can use these tickets on multiple days. •

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Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac), Bukovčeva 5, Cavtat, ☎ +385 20 478 646. 09:00 - 13:00, 16:0020:00, Sun 16:00-20:00. Closed Mon. Includes works by Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922), one of the most famous modern Croatian painters. Part of the house is devoted to exhibitions of works by young artists. Dubrovnik Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni muzej), Androvićeva 1, ☎ +385 20 324 888. 09:00-16:00, closed Sa-Su. The collection of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens dates back to 1872 and may not appeal to everyone.

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Franciscan Monastery Museum, Placa 2. 09:0018:00. Houses artifacts from one of the world’s oldest pharmacies. 30 kn. Sigurata Convent Museum, Od Sigurate 13, ☎ +385 20 321 467. Upon request. Entry: 10 kn. Synagogue and Jewish Museum, Zudioska 5, ☎ +385 20 321 028. 10:00-15:00. This originally

Dominican Monastery Museum, Sv. Domina 4, ☎ +385 20 321 423. 09:00-18:00. Paintings and artifacts from Dubrovnik’s past. Entry: 20 kn. The Sponza Palace Museum (Museum of the State Archives). Entry: 20 kn. The Rector`s Palace Museum, Pred dvorom 1, ☎ +385 20 321 437. 09:00-18:00. Artifacts, paintings and furniture dating back from the time of the Dubrovnik Republic. Entry: 40 kn. The Treasury of Cathedral, Kneza Damjana Jude 1, ☎ +385 20 323 459. 09:00-18:00. The Treasury has 138 reliquaries which are carried around the city during the Feast of St Blaise. Entry: 15 kn. Maritime Museum, In St. John Fortress, ☎ +385 20 323 904. 09:00-18:00. Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s most important museums. Entry: 40 kn. Home of Marin Držić, Široka 7, ☎ +385 20 420 490. M-Sa 09:00-13:00 and by appointment. Memorial house of Marin Držić, a famous 16thcentury Croatian playwright from Dubrovnik. The Etnographic Museum (Rupe Granary), Od Rupa 3, ☎ +385 20 323 013. 09:00-18:00. Built in 1590, this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits showcase the economic, cultural and spiritual development of Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. Entry: 40 kn.

32.4.5 Beaches •

Lapad Beach. A car free, sandy beach area on the LapadPeninsula, approximately 3.5 km from the old

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Banje Beach and the Old Town

town, where you can relax in the shade of the numerous trees. At the end of a long pedestrianised street full of cafe bars and restaurants you will see many popular pebble beaches known as Lapad beaches. These beaches are really beautiful and well used. Lapad is definitely one of the most beautiful parts of Dubrovnik and you really must visit it. If you take the headland path to the right hand side of Lapad beach, as you look at the Adriatic, you can walk along a charming little coast path with small concrete 'beaches’ and ladders into the sea. These were put in during the Tito era and are ideal for one or two sunbathers. Walking further along is an excellent local fish restaurant - ideal for ending the day. The walk back is not particularly well lit, but perfectly safe. •

Take the new renovated cable car and you will get from Down station to Mountain Srđ in less than 4 min. Round trip ticket 120 kn. Go by car via Bosanka village. Follow Jadranska cesta (D8) towards Mlini and drive past Dubrovnik. Turn left to Bosanka village and follow the road up the hill. There is also the bus number 17 from Pile to Bosanka. Timetable: http://libertasdubrovnik.com/ wp-content/uploads/gradski.pdf

Visit the Fortress Lovrijenac. It was an essential fortification for defense of the city from both ground and sea attacks. In order to prevent mutiny by the commander of the fortress, the walls facing the city are only 60 cm thick compared to those exposed to enemy fire which were 12 m thick. Above the entrance to the fortress is an inscription that says “Non bene pro toto libertas venditur auro” which translates to “Freedom is not sold for all the gold in the world”.

32.5 Do

Banje Beach (near the Old Town ). A well located pebble beach. There’s a concessioned part with an entrance fee, but also a public part which is always livelier and more relaxed. Great way to beat the heat in the middle of the town. Amazing view to city walls, Old Town Dubrovnik and the island of Lokrum. Beach volleyball, mini football or water View of the City polo. You can also enjoy lying on deck chair and having a drink. Cliff Jumping @ Cafe Buža. See listing for Cafe Buža in the Drinks section. •

32.4.6 Other •

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Stradun. Take a walk and enjoy a drink at a cafe on the main thoroughfare of the old town. Mount Srđ, For a great view of the town. There is a fortress on top which contains a small museum describing its history. There are several ways up: •

Walk up the winding footpath to the fortress and large cross on the hilltop 400 m above Dubrovnik. Walking up from the old town takes about 90 min. The path is quite rocky so use suitable footwear.

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Lazareti, Frana Supila 8 ( Ploce, just out side of the east entrance to the Old town ), ☎ +385 20 324 633, e-mail: [email protected]. Old quarantine hospital serves as a cultural centre for concerts, exhibitions, workshops, theater, film, night clubs and literature. The concert hall/bar is a very cozy place with a decent sound system. Gallery Galeriya Tutunplok is open daily 12:00-21:00. Films and theater showings range from 20-40 kn Concerts cost 40-100 kn. A nightclub is open here from 10:00-16:00 and will cost you about 30 kn. Gathers a mostly alternative crowd.

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1 imad hotel, Za Karmenom 1. for free. Swim in the Adriatic Sea below the old wall. In the harbour of the old town, go all around (right) along the wall, beyond the aquarium and there is a pier and some rocks where you can cool down on a hot summer day. Avoid stepping on sea urchins, which are commonly found on rocks in the sea water around Dubrovnik, especially if you are wearing no shoes. These are mostly found in clear water and are easy to spot.

the city centre of Dubrovnik, in Rijeka Dubrovacka. •

32.5.1 Sailing and boat trips Dubrovnik is an excellent starting point for exploring southern Adriatic coast primarily Elaphite islands, Korčula, Pelješac and Mljet. There are many charter agencies where you can charter a sailing or motor yacht which are based in Dubrovnik. Majority of them operate from ACI marina Dubrovnik (42°40,3’ N 18°07,6’ E) which is based in Komolac about two nautical miles away from the entrance to the port Gruz, and only 6 kilometres away from the old town. It is open throughout the whole year. •

AYachtCharterDubrovnik.com operates from Komolac and offers a unique selection of yachts and other type of sailboats great for a family vacation.

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The rule of thumb is the more time you take for the yacht check in, the less time you will need for the yacht check out. After that you have to do the shopping for the charter vacation. Don't neglect the grocery shopping because the sea is unpredictable and you don't want to get stuck on the boat without anything to eat or drink. You can do the shopping in a marina however the prices are usually much higher there, or you can order from yacht provisioning services who usually deliver the products to the marina at no extra fee. •

Marina in Dubrovnik, . The only marina in Dubrovnik (formally in Komolac city) designed for sailing yachts and touristic catamarans, which start cruises in Dubrovnik. It is about 5 km from

Lokrum, Take a ferry to the Island of Lokrum which houses a monastery, a fort with great views of Dubrovnik, botanical gardens and a naturist beach. Preserved as a nature park this small island is reachable in 10 min in boat-time from the old city port. It offers unparalleled serenity, beauty and peace.

32.5.2 Festivals •

Dubrovnik is characterized by Mediterraneanclimate and generally light NW winds, making a yacht charter holiday very popular with couples with younger children and less experienced skippers and crews. A strong north wind known as the Bora is more usual during autumn and winter. When you charter a yacht through charter agency and arrive to designated marina there are a few things that need to be done. The most important thing is the yacht check in (usually Saturday around 16:00). Take your time doing yacht check in. Familiarise yourself with the chartered yacht and with the yacht equipment.

In Jam Yacht Supply, . Online provisioning catalog where you can order from a large selection of groceries and other products months in advance and everything you order awaits for you in the marina. This is convenient because it takes the load of you and the things you must do when you arrive at the marina for your sailing holiday.

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Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Music and theatre festival held since 1949 from 10 July to 25 August. Famous nationwide for its exquisite selection of drama, plays and concert of chamber music with more than 2,000 artists from 30 countries during 47 days of festival. Be sure to book in advance and don't miss a chance to see some of the open-air performances. Libertas Film Festival. Film festival held from August 25–30.

32.5.3 Cable car •

Dubrovnik Cable Car, Petra Krešimira 4. bb, 20000 Dubrovnik (The easiest way to cometo the cable car is from the Old Town of Dubrovnik. On the northern side of the town there is Buža Street which leads you towards the exit from the city walls. From there you need to keep climbing towards the fireman station. Once you are at the fireman station, you need to cross the street on your right hand side and keep going straight. After few moments you will see cable car station on your right hand side. ). 9:00-24:00. The original cable car was bombed during the conflicts and closed in 1991. It reopened to the public for the first time on 10 July 2010. The view of the OldCity will rival that found on any postcard. There is a small shop at the top and Restaurant Panorama with new outside terraces, restaurant with best view. Directions to the Cable Car are difficult to find in the Old City. 120 kn round trip.

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32.6 Buy

32.6.1 Bicycle parts and service Somewhat surprisingly, some car parts shops in the Dubrovnik area sell bicycles; they are easy to notice, as new bikes are standing outside in front of the shop. These shops may also carry some bicycle accessories and spare parts, but they don't do any bicycle repair. As of 2014, there was no real (full-time) bicycle shop in town; there was one person (Tonći Kera, see below) who works as a bicycle mechanic in his spare time, in a shed next to his apartment building, while holding a day job elsewhere. •

Tonći Kera, meštar za bicikle, P. Zoranića 1 (ask at the garage ), ☎ +385 20 436-776. This is not a regular bicycle repair shop, however the operator of this local garage offers a service.

32.7 Eat

A lane with tourist shops in Dubrovnik

There are many local artisans who specialize in domestic crafts. Popular purchases include: handmade tablecloths, linens and napkins. Many merchants claim that the necktie was invented in Croatia. Another local specialty is little dolls dressed in local garb. The Pharmacy, at the Franciscan Monastery creates hand creams and other toiletries based on ancient recipes. The pharmacy is one of the oldest in this part of Europe. It has been operating from the time of its foundation to Sponza Palace (Pałac Sponza) the present day. While wandering around the Old Town, you will come There is a wide range of restaurants in the Old Town, across many shops that sell Croatian goods such as wine mostly offering a very similar menu of local seafood and some meat dishes. The cuisine may not be very imaginaand textiles. tive, but it is usually of good quality and very fresh. If you have transport there is a Lidl (German discount supermarket) 5 km east of the Old Town near the village Restaurants can be crudely separated into (slightly) of Čibača - this is where the locals shop to avoid steep cheaper tourist-trap places, and more expensive but first class gastronomic restaurants. There are a few pizzeDubrovnik prices. rias, mostly wood-fired and quite acceptable. The Kraš Magnolika, Marina Getaldiceva 7 (3rd St. to the chocolate sold at stores is delicious. Remember that right in the Old Town ), ☎ +385 98 195 4040. Small Dubrovnik, more so than the rest of Croatia, is well aware gallery with unconventional art and cool jewellery of its status as a tourist hot-spot. Rents for restaurant premises are high and consequently the prices on the design. menus reflect this. •

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Clara Stones Jewellery Store, Naljeskoviceva 8 (5th street to the left of Stradun if you go from Pile Gate), ☎ +385 20 321706. Unique handmade adriatic coral, pearl and gems jewellery with certifcate of authenticity.

Note that in the off peak season of November–March nearly all the top-end restaurants close, leaving only a handful of desperate tourist trap enterprises operating and still charging high prices. You can however still eat well and discounts can be negotiated.

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Dubrovnik cuisine is characteristically not very spicy and is famous for traditionalism. Many popular meals are characteristic of Dubrovnik such as zelena menestra (it is the name for many sorts of cabbages and other vegetables with meat), the meat dish pašticada and the famous caramel-based dessert dubrovačka rozata. Since Dubrovnik restaurants are quite popular, many mid-range and high-end establishments provide the option of online reservation. English-language menus are found everywhere.

Kuk with good pizza and very good Mexican food/specialities. 40 kn for a normal 30 cm pizza; 50-80 kn for delicious Mexican food/specialities. •

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32.7.1 Budget Foodstuffs to prepare your own meals can be bought at Zoro, Ulica od Puča 7 ( in the heart of Old Town ). 07:0023:00. . •

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La Luna, Andrije Hebranga 60, ☎ +385 20 419 736. 09:00-24:00. Large portions. Really good pizza with fresh ingredients. Best to have a medium pizza for 1 person or large if you are really hungry a large can be split in half for not that hungry couples. Only pizza is served before 17:00, for pasta or other dishes you will have to wait until 17:00. 45 kn/medium pizza. Lokanda Peskarija, Na ponti bb, ☎ +385 20 324 750. Traditional Dalmatian appetizers and meals, you get your meal in a large black fisherman’s style pot.

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Spaghetteria Toni, Nikole Bozidarevica 14, ☎ +385 20 323-134. A small Italian style restaurant in the old town with outdoor seating providing a wide variety of pasta. Taj Mahal (within the old city ). Offers a variety of Bosnian/Eastern cuisine such as Cevapcici u lepinji, baklava and tufahi. The wait can be quite long, and vegetarian options are often sold out. Lady Pipi ( from Pile Gate second street on left right at the top of the steps ). Worth the climb for magnificent views over the old town from the restaurants’ terrace and presumably taking it’s name from an ancient water feature just outside the restaurant (not for the prudish). Grilled fish with vegetables 110 kn, grilled chicken with fries about 70 kn, salads etc. Be prepared to wait for a table with a terrace view as is very popular with locals - alternatively arrive before 8 in the evening to avoid the busiest times. Beware of wasps.

32.7.2 Mid-range

Mea Culpa, Široka Street. One of the best pizzerias on what is becoming a 'pizza street'. Go for pizza or a coffee and brandy and exchange banter with the staff. 70 kn/pizza+bottle of water. Nishta, Prijeko 30 (At the top of the first set of stairs on Palmotićeva, which is the 3rd street on the left when walking from Pile gate ), ☎ +385 92 218 8612. Dubrovnik’s first and only vegetarian restaurant, with vegan and gluten free options available upon request. Pekara Zlatno Zrno patisserie, Petra Kresimira (outside the city walls near the fire station ), ☎ +385 20 412153. Nice patisserie / bakery that stays open late. Expensive, but cheaper than those within the city walls. Poklisar, Ribarnica 1 ( in the old harbour ), ☎ +385 20 322176. Limited but good menu, including pizza and some very enjoyable live piano music. Pizzeria Scala, Mata Vodopića 3 (near Tommy’s supermarket ), ☎ +385 91 412-5110. 08:00-24:00. Street dining in Dubrovnik A very nice pizzeria between Lapad and Babin

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Arka, Gundulićeva poljana ( in the Old Town). Dalmatian cuisine in an excellent location. Has some good vegetarian options. The baked moussaka especially is worth a try. Domino Steak House, Od Domina 6, ☎ +385 20 323 103. One of the best for a variety of ways of serving steak. Also serves traditional Dalmatian fare. Dubravka 1836 ([email protected] ), Brsalje 1 (Pile Gate, Brsalje Sq at entrance to the Old Town.), ☎ +38520426319. Varietyof pizzas, meat and seafood dishes, quality domestic and foreign wines, cocktails, homemade ice cream and desserts. Pizza 60 kn, mains 70-160 kn, dessert 30 kn..

Old City of Dubrovnik

variety of fruits. Examples include šljivovica, made from plums, loza, made fromgrapes, and orahovica , made with walnuts. All are quite strong.

There are many excellent local wines from both the Pel Konoba Atlantic, Kardinala Stepinca 42, ☎ +385 ješac Peninsula and Konavle and it is often less expen20 435 726. Tasty Italian food and inexpensive sive than soft drinks like Coca Cola. However, be careful wine. Try the lobster and prawn ravioli. when purchasing wine from unlicensed dealers. Though the price is very attractive with some being as low as 10 *Marco Polo, Lucarica 6 ( near St. Blaise church), ☎ kn or €1.5 per litre it can sometimes be of low quality. +385 99 801 45 66. 10-24. Good traditional food served Croatian beer is also good and popular, though none is in a small outdoor courtyard. Really nice restaurant with made in the Dubrovnik region. different types of food. •

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Proto, Široka Ulica (Old Town). Good seafood.

32.8.1 Cafes

There are numerous cafes throughout the Old Town and the entire city with prices varying according to the location (particularly, those located on the Stradun are by far Gils Cuisine & Pop Lounge, Sv. Dominika bb the most expensive but you are paying for the ambiance (Near the Ploce gate), ☎ +385 20 32 2222, fax: +358 and people-watching as well). Most cafes serve a wide 20 32 2220, e-mail: [email protected]. A variety of drinks all day. new and rather over the top venue located in the Old town of Dubrovnik with stunning views of the old harbour. The restaurant offers ultra modern French 32.8.2 Bars cuisine and a wine and digestive cellar. A lounge bar has fresh cocktails and funky DJ music. 500 Walk towards the sea from Stradun near the Ploce gate, kn/person. and you'll hit a tiny square with outdoor seating by 4 or 5 different pubs, with live music playing, and large cocktail Nautika, Brsalje 3 ( just outside the Pile gate to the pitchers with very low alcohol content. Old City, on the waterfront ), ☎ +385 20 44 25 26. Great views of the sea and Old City. Pay attention Cafe Buža, Iza Mura ( Follow a sign that says ‘cold to the menu prices which switch from Kuna to Euro drinks’ and enter through a hole in the wall on the throughout. Try the 17 euro“MediterraneanLunch” south side of the Old Town. Just wander up the stairs special; otherwise start at 200 kn. (on the right side of Stradun coming from Pile gate), until you hit the city walls, and then walk all the way Porat Restaurant & Terrace (Restaurant in Hilton down.). The tables and chairs are set out on the Imperial Dubrovnik hotel ), Marijana Blazica 2, ☎ side of the cliff and the beers are served in bottles +385 20 320-320. Spacious terrace, just outside the and plastic cups. You can sunbathe on the rocks or Pile gate. Offers international and Croatian cuisine. do some cliff-diving but do watch for rocks below. This is lovely in the evening, when the sun is setting and you gaze over at island of Lokrum. Eclectic 32.8 Drink chilled out music plays unobtrusively in the background. There isn’t much in the way of shelter apart The most popular hard alcohol in Croatia is home made from some palm leaves so Buža won’t open in bad . This is a very strong distilled drink made from a weather. Higher price range. rakija

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32.9. SLEEP

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Casablanca (On one of the streets to the left of Stradun walking from the Pile gate ). Look for flashing redandblue lights. This is an interesting, slightly bizarre bar with seating outside on the city stairs, techno music, and may have erotic dancing. D'vino Wine Bar, Palmoticeva 4a ( Coming from Pile Gate they are on the third street off of Stradun on the left.), ☎ +385 20 321 223. D'Vino Wine Bar has a selection of over 100 fine domestic and imported wine available by the glass, bottle, and in tasting servings. Largest selection of wines by the glass in Dubrovnik with a very intimate, romantic atmosphere, which is a change of pace from other bars in the city. Nonenina, Pred Dvorom 4, ☎ +385 91 333 0601. Chill music fills this lounge bar at night, making it a great place to unwind after a full day of sightseeing.

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32.9 Sleep Private rooms are a good option for those on a budget, starting from around €10 per person for comfort and privacy exceeding those of hostels. The downside is that they may be far from the Old Town, so make sure you check the location. Owners letting out these rooms accost buses at the bus station, so you can ask around and even bargain a little.

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Capitano, Pile. Various kinds of music from studio 54 to Croatian music. Low prices. EastWest, Frana Supila bb (At the Banje beach at the Ploce gate ), ☎ +385 20 412 220, e-mail: [email protected]. Beach club and night club. In the day you can have drinks in the lounge chairs, at night you can party in the nightclub. Amazing view, various kinds of music, popular Djs and beautiful atmosphere. Free entrance until midnight..

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Factory, Put Republike ( Gruz, 1 km from the centre. Bus station is situated just 20 m from the Club. ). Various kinds of music, many popular singers and DJs. Klub Orlando, Branitelja Dubrovnika 41 (5 min walk along Branitelja Dubrovnika from the old town’s Pile Gate. At number 41, on the left, there is a dark car park, belonging to the old hospital . Walk into it, turn right, pass a small building, then ascend a lot of steps. ), ☎ +385 20 312 674. Dingy club, predominantly metal but seems to cater for anything deemed alternative. Cheap drink prices with occasional international touring acts, definitely in the minority as a tourist here. Latino Club Fuego, Brsalje b.b., Pile ( just outside the Pile gate ). From May to October open every day from 11:00-06:00. During the rest of the year it is open on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays 11:0018:00. Usual 18-25 touristy bunch, and the music is commercial RnB, house, dance, pop and techno. Entry 40 kn per person with 1 drink included.

Lazareti (on the eastern entrance of the Old Town, by the Ploce gate). house and techno music.

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Camping Solitudo (Catch bus #7 from the main bus station (every hour) directly or take bus #1 to the Old Town Pile station and change to bus 6 (6 and 7, direction: 'Babin Kuk')). 400 m walk to two beaches. 2 people in a tent: 200 kn. Hostel Marker Dubrovnik-Old Town (in Old Town-Pile Beach, 25 m from sea ), ☎ +385 91 739 75 45, e-mail: [email protected]. Marko the owner is a friendly and obliging guy with a local philosophic attitude. He also offers holidayapartments with their own kitchen and private bathroom. €15-€40 per person. Hostel Villa Micika Dubrovnik, Mata Vodopica 12 ( in Lapad, 200 m walk to the beach. Take Bus #6 from Pile or the bus station to Lapad post office ), ☎ +385 20 437 332, e-mail: [email protected]. Funky, clean, character rooms, dorms, big shared terrace. Free Internet with WiFi. All rooms have TV with local and international channels, air-con and bathrooms with shower cabin and WC. €15 low season-€38 high season. 1 Guest House Letizia, Radnicka St, Đura Basaričeka 30 (in Gruz above the main city port. Go to the Barcelys Hotel and then after hotel 20 m turn on uphill street on left. A few steps above you will find the guest house), ☎ +385 98 9841801, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 10:00. Free WiFi, a garden and a shared terrace looking out to Gruž Bay. Bright rooms with wooden floors, some have a private balcony. Stone barbecue on the terrace. Guests can also cook in a shared open-plan kitchen, a dining table for 6 is provided, no extra charge is levied for those services. €35-40/ room. Dubrovnik Backpacker’s Club, Mostarska 2d, ☎ +385 20 435 375, e-mail: [email protected].

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Awarded as best hostel in Croatia. Home turned into a backpackers hot spot. Family run with location on Lapad, popular after its beaches and green parks but still just 10 min ride from old town and crowds. No booking fee for booking through their website. •

Youth Hostel Dubrovnik, Vinka Sagrestana 3 (20 min walk from the Old Town ), ☎ +385 20 423 241. Check-in: 13:00, check-out: 10:00. 82 beds. The atmosphere leaves something to be desired, but it’s usually filled with interesting people up for a chat on the balcony. Dorm bed: €16.70.


Hotel Adriatic Dubrovnik, Masarykov put 9 (at the foot of Petka Hill, by the Adriatic Sea), ☎ +385 20 433 609, e-mail: [email protected] . Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Park and sea view rooms. The city centre is reachable by bus.

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Hotel Komodor, Masarykov put 5, Lapad Bay, ☎ +385 20 433 673, e-mail: [email protected] . Checkin: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Swimming pool, complimentary breakfast, free parking for hotel guests and free WIFI in public spaces. Hotel Neptun Dubrovnik, Kardinala Stepinca 31, ☎ +385 20 440 100, fax: +385 20 440 200, e-mail: [email protected] . Renovated in 2008. 9-story tower with 79 rooms and 12 family suites, all have air-con, a balcony with sea-view and free WiFi. Hotel Lero, Iva Vojnovica 14 (15 min walk from Old Town), ☎ +385 20 341 333, fax: +385 20 332 123, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: noon, check-out: noon. Recently renovated city hotel with 155 contemporary designed rooms. Sea views and equipped with regular three star amenities with aircon. Free parking, free WiFi.

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Hotel Petka, Obala Stjepana Radica 38 ( in the Port of Gruz), ☎ +385 20 410 500. Convenient for island hopping. Clean air-con rooms, restaurant. Hotel Splendid, Masarykov put 10, ☎ +385 20 433 633, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Hotel Splendid is situated in a Mediterranean garden on a pebble beach in Dubrovnik’s Lapad Bay.It offers free parking for hotel guests, complimentary breakfast, free wi-fi in public spaces.

Pension Stankovich, Matije Gubca 15 ( at the entrance of Old Town ), ☎ +385 98 182 7338. Dubrovnik b&b, Frana Supila 1 (at the entrance of Old Town), ☎ +385 91 201 55 91.

32.9.3 Splurge

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Hotel Vis, Masarykov put 4, ☎ +385 20 433 605, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Hotel Vis is situated on a pebble beach in Dubrovnik’s Lapad Bay.It offers parking for hotel guests, complimentary breakfast,wi-fi in public spaces.

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Ariston Hotel, Kardinala Stepinca 31, ☎ +385 20 440 100, fax: +385 20 440 200, e-mail: [email protected] . 115 luxury sea and garden view rooms a few miles from the Old Town of Dubrovnik right along the Adriatic Sea. Grand Villa Argentina, Frana Supila 14 ( near the Old Town), ☎ +385 20 475 777, fax: +385 20 440 533, e-mail: [email protected]. Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik, Marijana Blažića 2, ☎ +385 20 320 320. 5 star hotel near the entrance of the Old Town and overlooking the ancient city walls and fortresses. It was built in 1895 and has 139 rooms and 8 suites. Hotel Bellevue, Pera Čingrije 7 (1 km from Old Town.), ☎ +385 20 330-300, fax: +385 20 330-100. 5 star hotel on a clifftop overlooking the Adriatic, 93 rooms on 5 levels. Rooms have a modern nautical themed decor with wooden flooring. Private beach, spa and sauna. Hotel Dubrovnik Palace, Masarykov put 20 (4.5 km from Old Town ), ☎ +385 20 430 777. 5 star hotel on a Lapad peninsula, below the park of little Petka woods and with a view to the Elaphite islands. Hotel Excelsior, F. Supila 12, ☎ +385 20 35 33 53. 5 star hotel of 146 bedrooms and 18 suites. Built in 1913 and completely renovated in 1998 overlooking the Old City. Walking distance to the beaches and Old City 2,000 kn. Hotel Uvala, Masarykov put 6, Lapad Bay, ☎ +385 20 433 608, e-mail: [email protected] . Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 11:00. Conference and spa facilities, swimming pools, parking for hotel guests and WiFi in public spaces.

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32.13. GO NEXT

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Pucic Palace, Ulica Od Puca 1 ( in the middle of the Old Town across from Gundulic Square ), ☎ +385 20 326 200, fax: +385 20 326 223. 19 room 5 star hotel. Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens, Na moru 1, ☎ +385 20 361 500, fax: +385 2036 1503, e-mail: [email protected] . 5 star beachside resort, 15 km from the centre of Dubrovnik.

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Laundry Most private accommodation do not offer laundry facilities. If you are staying awhile and are looking for somewhere to wash your clothes then you might require a selfservice laundry •

32.10 Stay safe •

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Dubrovnik is a very safe city, though the usual precautions should be taken to protect yourself from pick-pocketing. The streets in the old town can be quite slippery as they've been smoothed down for centuries by people walking over them.

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When entering a port, it is international protocol to hoist a flag, meaning “Ready for inspection by Customs”. In Croatia you must always have your headlights on while operating a motor vehicle including all cars, motorbikes and scooters during winter daylight savings time. Headlights are no longer required during the day in the summer months, although many motorists still leave them turned on.

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Dubrovnik Travel Corner, Obala Stjepana Radica 40, ☎ +385 20 492 313, fax: +385 20 492 314, email: [email protected]. Summer 08:00-22:00, winter: 09:00-15:00. You can book tours, go online, leave your luggage or make international calls.

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Hrvatski Autoklub, If you are stranded, have car troubles, or need help contact HAK, ☎+385 1 987.

1 Laundry SPIN Dubrovnik, Ulica Iza Grada (Buza Gate, just outside ), ☎ +385 98 170 1433. 08:00-21:00. Self-service laundromat. Washing and drying machines are available. 50HRK.

32.13 Go next

In Dubrovnik internet cafes are plentiful. Rates are generally 25 kn/hr. •

1 Sanja & Rosie’s Launderette Dubrovnik, Put Od Bosanke 2 ( Ploce Gate, just outside east entrance to the Old Town ), ☎ +385 99 254 6959. 09:0021:00. Self-service laundromat. Washing and drying machines are available. 50HRK.

Bites

32.11 Connect Internet cafes

ATMs, Keep in mind that there are few ATMs outside the Old Town.

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Many destinations in Croatia can be accessed from Dubrovnik with popular attractions including Split and the Plitvice Lakes National Park as well as the capital, Zagreb which is approximately a 10 hr drive away (six hours if you travel outside the tourist season and take the new highway). Check out the timetables at libertas Dubrovnik. A popular shopping destination for locals, Neum in Herzegovina (Bosnia and Herzegovina) offers many cheap goods for frugal travellers. Buses heading between Split and Dubrovnik will often stop for a short while here to collect various supplies. Montenegro Daily buses operates from Dubrovnik through to Kotor, Budva or Herceg Novi. Ston is known for oysters and old salt ponds still in use and the longest stone wall in Europe (5 km long). Trsteno 15 century summer residence with renaissance garden. Mostar in Bosnia is about 3 hr away by bus, and makes for a good two day trip. The city has a much strongerTurkishfeel as opposed to Dubrovnik’s Italian. Sarajevo is worth visiting as it is considered by some as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

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CHAPTER 32. DUBROVNIK DUBROVNIK

A boat trip to the Elaphiti Islands Islands (Koločep, (Koločep, Šipan, Lopud) is well worth while, with plenty of places to swim, fish or relax. Međugorje Visit the Shrine of Međugorje for a reli Međugorje Visit gious experience. Mljet island. Green island with lakes and monaster Mljet island. ies. Go on a wine tasting tour to Pelješac peninsula

Chapter 33

Klek 33.5 Do

in Croatia,, on the Dalmatian Coast. Klek is Klek is a village in Croatia

33.1 33.1 Un Unde ders rstan tandd 33.2 33 .2 Get Get in The nearest airport is the Dubrovnik airport, which is an hour and a half drive from Klek.

Above Klek, there is a mountain, Smrdelj, where one can climb up and see an excellent view of klek and neighboring villages. Take a swim in the clear waters and try your luck at fishing! Snorkeling is a fun activity, you can find sea urchins, sea cucumbers, crabs, and various fish. There is a great outdoor pizzeria with a marble facade with a great view of the beach and hosts live music.

33.6 Buy 33.3 33 .3 Get Get arou around nd

There are various souvenirs, a great buy is croatian lavender oil, which smells fantastic fantastic and wards off bugs. Ston, Everything in Klek is walking distance, as it is a small, a nearby town has a sea salt refinery, where where you can buy touristic village. the local sea salt.

33.4 See

33.7 Eat There are lots of great pizzerias and fast food places, but if a sit-down dinner din ner is what you're after, a fter, skolj skolj is a sea side restaura restaurant nt with excel excellen lentt lignje, lignje, or squid. squid. The Hotel Hotel Plaza Plaza restaurant has an excellent restaurant on the beach with a great selection of fresh seafood and an attentive staff. Breakfast should always start off with a trip to either of the bakeries, either one just 20 meters from the beach. Bakeries have savoury breakfast specialties, such as slance- delicious delicious rolls with a salt topping. or pretzels, or pite- phyllo phyllo dough stuffed stuffed with anything from cheese to meat or potatoes. For a sweet breakfast breakfast treat, Krofne, or doughnuts are the way to go.

View to the sea

There is a beautiful beach with white pebble with people watching and paddle boats. Private beaches are a ten minute minute walk walk away away,, or walk walk along alongthe thebea beach chunt until il you you reac reachh an uninhabited area. There are tennis courts and a few few water waterffront ront cafes. cafes. Theanc The ancie ient nt Kono Konoba ba Kula Kula was was once once a famous :"discoteka,” or nightclub. Now a crumbling tower, it is worth a look.

33.8 33 .8 Drink rink There plenty of cafes with local croatian beers- such as karlovack karlovacko. o. bars also serve stronger drinks,including drinks,including a croatian specialty, orahnjaca, is a walnut liqueur which is sweet and a great digestif, there is the bitter pelinkovac, pelinkovac, and rakija as well.

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CHAPTER CHAPTER 33. KLEK

33.9 33 .9 Slee Sleepp There are many local apartments. apartments. Local people rent out their apartments for tourists and you typically typically have your own balcony, kitchen, bathroom, and multiple bedrooms. There are also rooms rented out and a hotel. •

Hotel Plaza. Plaza.

33.1 33 .100 Conn Connec ectt 33.1 33 .111 Go ne nexxt

Chapter 34

Komarna 34.2 34 .2 Get Get arou around nd

Southern Dalmatia,, Croatia Croatia.. Komarna is Komarna is a village in Southern Dalmatia

Komarna is Komarna is a little village, so the best way to get around is on foot.

34.3 See great base for sightsee sightseeing. ing. Dubrovni Dubrovnik, k, Komarna is Komarna is a great Ston, Peljesac peninsula, islands Brac, Hvar, Mljet nad Korcula, Mostar, Medjugorje are all within one hour drive from Komarna. •

Komarna, Croatia

34.1 34 .1 Get Get in By plane

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Dubrovnik Airport is Airport is about 90 km south km south of Komarna. Komarna. From April to October, there are many direct flights into Dubrovnik into Dubrovnik from from all major European, UK and Ireland land citi cities es.. Chec Checkk Dubrovnik Dubrovnik for more information about about flights. From Dubrovn Dubrovnik ik airport airport take direction direction Dubrovnik. Pass Dubrovnik Dubrovnik and continue continue on the main road that runs along the coast direction Split. Komarna is on the main road, just 70 km north of Dubrovnik. On the main road, there is a sign indicating left turn into Komarna. Split Airport Airport is located about 130 km north of KoSplit airport airport you can either either take scenic scenic marna. marna. From Split road that runs along the coast, direction Dubrovnik, or take highway highway A1 direction Dubrovnik. Dubrovnik. Taking the highway will certainly be better choice during the summer days, because the old road runs through busy villages along the coast. Take highwa highwayy A1 direction Dubrovnik, get get off the high highwa wayy on junc juncti tion on Ravc Ravca. a. Take Takedir direc ectio tionn VrVrgorac, Dubrovnik. Komarna is 65 km far from the highway junction Ravca, direction Dubrovnik.

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Archaeological Museum Narona is Narona is located in village Vid, 25 km far from Komarna. This is the first “in site” museum, built on the archeological archeological site itself. self. You cansee can see remai remains ns of Augus Auguste teum um - antic antic temtemple consecrated to emperor Augustus, dating from 10 B.C. Beside the temple, there are 16 monumental statue statuess of emper emperor, or, his family amily and other other powe powerf rful ul Romans. The statue of Augustus is almost 3 m tall. The Ornithological Ornithological collection in collection in Metković is one of the greatest collection of its kind in Europe. You can see over 340 stuffed birds who frequented area of Neretva Valley. Valley. Neretva Valley Valley was once a swamp and this collection is a testimony to former richness of the life in Neretva. Many of those birds, do not come any more to Neretva Valley Valley due to the soil improvements, and they can only be seen in this ornithological collection. are ruin ruinss of vill villag ages es in the the Slivno and Smrdan Smrdan grad are hills hills above above Komar Komarna. na. Those Those villa village gess are today today abanabandoned, but many local people still cultivate olive trees there. From Komarna you can hike all the way to Slivno and Smrdan Grad. The views over Pel Peljesac Bay are amazing.

34.4 Do

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Swimming is Swimming is the main activity while in Komarna.

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CHAPTER 34. KOMARNA KOMARNA

34.7 34 .7 Drink rink 34.8 34 .8 Slee Sleepp There There is one smal smalll hotel hotel and many many apartm apartment entss avail availab able le in Komarna. The hotel Villa Bili has both rooms and apartments with one or or two bedrooms. Many of the private private apartments may be rented through a Danish travel agency Komarna Rejser Rejser who runs a site in English, Danish and and German. Calm Adriatic sea •

Hiking is another popular activity in Komarna. There are many abandoned villages in the hills around Komarna. Komarna. Walking Walking paths are clear clear and indicated.

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☎ +385 52 462 002. 002. Komarna 98, Villa Dorida, Dorida, ☎ +385

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☎ +45 2349 5880. 5880. Apartment Tedo, Tedo, ☎ +45

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be Speed boat ride if ride if you have a proper licence can be a great day out. Motor boat ride can take you off to secluded beaches in the bays and islands around Komarna. amateur sport competi competition tion Ladja Marathon. Marathon. An amateur of tradition traditional al vessels vessels from from Lower Lower Neretva Neretva River River held held since 1998 on second Saturday of August.

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Restaurant Villa Bili, Komarna 26, . Serves variety of meat and fish dishes. Restaurant Djuda Djuda & Mate, in Vid, Metkovic, Metkovic, . A restaurant located in village Vid, right by the river Norin. Guests can choose among the variety of traditional Neretva Neretva dishes. Dishes are based on homegrown grown organic organic food, food, specia specialtie ltiess are prepared preparedacc accordording to the original Neretva recipes, and the most famous mous areeel andfrog andfrog stew stew (brode (brodetto) tto),, eels eels on thesp the spit it and fried ried frogs. rogs. Warm and cold cold dishe dishess can can be serve servedd on the traditional boats that will take you through channels of Norin rivier.

95. Nine Nine Apartmani Deak Deak,, ☎ +385 91 186 47 95. apartments.

34.9 34 .9 Conn Connec ectt

34.5 Buy

In Komarna there are two restaurants and one pizzeria. One restaurant offers wide variety of dishes, while the other restaurant being run by the local fisherman and his family offers mainly seafood. The prices are fair. There are many restaurant in the area of Komarna. Restaurant Duda i Mate in Mate in village Vid offers, among other dishes, local specialities - eels and frogs! Ston Ston is is particularly famous for its oysters.

(Komarna). Apartment Komarna Komarna (

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Go shopping in Neum in Neum in in Bosnia Bosnia,, only 8 km away. Most Most of the produ products ctsare are chea cheaper per than than in Croati Croatiaa due to lower tax. Embark on Neretva River Safari and taste local specialities aboard traditional Neretva boat. Ston is famous amous for for its fortificati ortification on walls walls dating dating from the 14th century, when Ston became part of Dubrovnik republic republic.. At 5.5 km long, and with 40 towers and 5 fortresses, fortresses, they are the longest fortification walls built in Europe. While there, taste the famous Ston oysters. If you are a wine lover, lover, don't miss wine tasting tour on Peljesac peninsula. Visit Mostar Visit Mostar in in Bosnia Bosnia with with its Turkish houses and UNESCO-protected Old Bridge. Visit Catholic shrine Medugorje shrine Medugorje.. Mljet island is considered Mljet island considered the greenest Croatian island. Old town Dubrovnik town Dubrovnik is is not to be misse missed. d. It is an hour’s drive away.

Chapter 35

Korčula Korčula (pronounced 'KOR-chu-la') is an island in the Adriatic Sea, in Southern Dalmatia, near Dubrovnik. According to some sources, Marco Polo may have been born here.

the ferry to Korčula (it goes at 8:30 and at 17:30 costs: per person €5/ car €25/ motorcycle €10/ camping-bus €40). The camp is situated 500m from there. Alternatively you can take the A1 to Ploče, the D8 to Mali Ston and then cross Pelješac to Orebić.

35.1 Understand

35.3.2 By ferry

Korčula is also the name of the eastern-most town on the island. Another town is Vela Luka, 43 km in the west, from Split Take the Jadrolinija ferry to Vela Luka (60kn from where many ferries go. There are many small vilper person; this ferry also takes cars), then take a bus lages, including Blato, Smokvica, Čara, Pupnat, Žrnovo, to Korčula Town. Alternatively, take the Jadrolinija Lumbarda and Račišće all worth visiting if you have more catamaran directly to Korčula town (one daily sertime to spend. vice leaving Split at 17:00 and arriving in Korčula Town at 20:00, 80kn per person). Korčula is themost populatedisland in theAdriatic. It has very good facilities for cycling with lots of small tracks from Dubrovnik Take the Marko Polo (Jadrolinja) with spectacular view. Cycling on Korčula is developing ferry to Korčula (80 kn). fast since the island has a very mild winter therefore all seasons are ideal for cycling. from Dubrovnik Libertas bus to Orebić (14:15 every day except Sunday) then passenger ferry from Orebić to Korčula (15 kn).

35.2 Talk

from Rijeka 10 hours, overnight (Marko Polo ferry), 210Kn

Croatian is the local language, but English is spoken at most restaurants, internet cafes, tourist information cen- from Bari, Italy 12 hours, (Marko Polo ferry) ters and travel agencies. Italian is also widely understood, especially among the elderly. Some people also speak from Hvar Take the Jadrolinija catamaran to Korčula town (one daily service leaving Hvar at 18:45 and German. arriving in Korčula Town at 20:00, 50kn per person, tickets available at the 'Pelegrini' travel agency in Hvar next to the pier)

35.3 Get in 35.3.1 By car

35.3.3 By water taxi

From Dubrovnik Follow the coastal road (E65/D8) in direction Split. Then you drive on the peninsula Pelješac until Orebić. In Orebić you either take the ferry to Dominče (3 km east of Korčula town) or leave your car andtake a passenger-only ferry to Korčula itself. The ferry goes every hour, except in the night between 24-4 o clock.

If arriving on Orebić you can get yourself a ride on one of the water taxis, or order a speed taxi boat that will get you across the canal in under 7 minutes (Water express water taxi service) 098 757043

35.3.4 By bus

From Split Follow the coastal road (E65/D8) in direc- From Zagreb There is a direct bus to Korčula, which tion Dubrovnik about 100 km. In Drvenik you take takes 10 hours. 119

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CHAPTER 35. KORČULA KORČULA

From Dubrovnik From Dubrovnik There is a daily coach which takes around around 3 hours hours.. Alter Alternat nativ ivel ely, y, you you can take a minib minibus us run by Korkyra Korkyra Inf Infoo Tra Trave vell Age Agenc ncyy which takes around 2 hours (150kn per person) and picks you up directly from where you are staying in Dubrovnik. The minibus can take you from Dubrovnik Airport to Korčula for 225kn per person. Korkyra can arrange a private transfer between Dubrovnik and Korčula if you prefer at 1050kn (per vehicle) and can organise a stop en route on the Pelješac peninsula at a winery in Potomje, a seafood resta restaura urant nt or Ston, Ston, the site site of the second second longe longest st wall wall in the world after the Great Wall of China.

lands well worth seeing (Water-express water taxi service 098 757043).

35.5 See 35.5.1 35.5.1 Ko Korč rčula ula Old To Town wn Korčula’s Old Town is small and can be seen pretty thoroughly in a few hours. •

From Belgrade From Belgrade There is a direct service all the way from the capital of Serbia, normally three times a week, during the summer season (late June–early September). From Sarajevo From Sarajevo The Bosnian capital also has buses to Korčula.

35.4 35 .4 Get Get arou around nd •

Korčula town is small enough to walk everywhere. The layout of the town is quite simple, with a single avenue as the spine bisecting the old town, and smaller roads branchi branching ng from this central central avenue avenue toward toward the sea. A pedestrian avenue circles the old town as well. It is possible to travel between towns on the island by bus, car or taxi, and some taxi drivers will give guided tours of the island.

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There There are a coup couple le intern internal al bus routes routes conne connecti cting ng Korč Korčula ula town to other towns on Korčula island. The Korčula town bus station is at the southeast corner of the Old Town. •

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to Zrnovo to Zrnovo,, Pupnat, Pupnat, Blato and Blato and Vela Vela Luka — Luka — Buses depart Korčula town bus station between 06:45 to 20:00: M–Sa 6—8 times daily (depending on season), just 3 times on Sunday. Check schedule for date-specific schedule. Takes 1 hour and costs 43 kn to cross the entire island to Vela Luka. to to Lombarda or Car or Car Ferry Terminal, Terminal, approximately hourly from 07:00–18:45 M–Sa, just 4 times from 10:00–18:45 on Sunday. Check schedule for date-specific schedule. Takes Takes 15 minutes and costs 25 kn.

Bike rentals are available in old town. If you intend to cycle between towns, ask for route recommendations when renting: they may recommend lesser-known lesser-known Napoleonic roads and other trails that are both easier and safer for bikers than the main trans-island highway. If visiting coastal villages it’s best done with a water-taxi since Korčula has a big archipelago with many small is-

1 St Mark’s Cathedral Tower (Cathedral Sveti bell tower, tower, Marko) (center of Korčula town ). The bell while not particularly tall on its own, sits at the highest point of Korčula’s old town and offers spectacular views of the city’s red-tile roofs and of ships in the blue water. water. Better than the Marco Polo Polo tower, tower, which is shorter. shorter. Steps only, only, no elevator. elevator. To visit visit the interior of the cathedral is a separate admission fee and nothing special. 20 kn for tower, 20 kn for cathedral interior. interior. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Marco Polo’s House (Kuća Marka Pola), ul. Depolo. Apr–Jun and Sep–Oct 09:00–15:00, 09:00–15:00, Jul– Aug 09:00–21:00. Tourists can visit visit what the town claims is the birthplace of famed explorer Marco Polo (Venice, Constantinople, and Korčula all claim this; “Marco Polo’s House” was built at least a century after he died!) 20 kn. (updated Sep 2016) 1 Town Museum Korčula (Gradski Gradski muze muzej KoKorčula), Trg. Sv. Marka ( facing Saint Mark’s cathe), ☎ +385 20 711 420, 420 , e-mail: e-mail: info@gmdral ), korcula.com.. Jan– korcula.com Jan–Ma Marr Oct–D Oct–Dec ec 10:0 10:00– 0–13 13:0 :00, 0, Apr–Jun 10:00–14:00, Jul–Sep 09:00-21:00, closed Sundays. Good overview overview of the island’s and town’s history: Includes exhibits on limestone carving, Korčula’s shipbuilding industry, and an example merchant’s house from from old times. Ask how to use your smartphone smartphone as a free audio audio guide. Outside, in the square, notice the limestone post with chains that used to be used to punish criminals. 20 kn, children under 14 free. free. (updated Sep 2016)

35.5.2 35.5.2 Further Further Afield Afield •

1 Cypress-lined stairway on Sveti Antun Hill, Hill , in the Sveti Antun suburb of Korčula ( 25 minutes walk Climb an or 5 minu minute tess dri drive from rom Korču orčula la old old town town). Climb avenue of 102 steps, lined with regal cypress trees, to reach the hilltop chapel of Sveti Atun. Entrance to the chapel itself is usually locked but windows allow you to clearly look into the interior at all hours. Views from the hilltop are good, but the cypress staircase is really the highlight of this destination. free. free. (updated Sep 2016)

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1 Big Cave ( ela Luka Luka.. Cave ( Vela Spila), Vela Oct 2016)

at each other with real swords: sparks fly and sometimes a dancer gets hurt but they nevertheless nevertheless stick stick it out because the dance is so tightly choreographed. Almost as impressive is the woman who narrates the story before the show fluently in five different language guages. s. 100 kn. (updat (updated ed Oct Oct 2016) 2016)

(upd (updat ated ed

35.6 Do 35.6.1 35.6.1 Beach Beaches es & Nature Nature •

If you you are the relax relaxed ed trave travele lerr lookin lookingg for a quie quiett geta getawa way, y, it’s possible to soak up the sun on some of Croatia’s most beautiful beaches. Some of the beaches on the island are quite liberal, with fully nude sunbathers. It is imp import ortant ant to recogn recognize ize that that most most of Croati Croatia’s a’s beac beache hess are quite rocky, so it is imperative to wear the correct footwear. If you plan to swim, wear shoes or swim fins in the water—there are many sea urchins! The beaches on Korčula offer gorgeous views of the karstic karstic coastal coastal ranges. One can see the nearby nearby coastal coastal village of Orebić as well. well. There are two sandy beaches beaches on Korčula, just to the east of the village of Lumbarda of Lumbarda,, one on the north coast and one on the south coast at the narrowest point on the island. •

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35.7 Eat

There There arepl are plent entyy of resta restaura urants nts on theisland, theisland, rangin rangingg from rom traditional Adriatic fare to Italian influences. Rent a kayak kayak (there’s a booth at the beach beach on the Don't leave Korčula without trying local dishes such as west side of old town) brodet (fish stew), pašticada (Dalmatian stewed beef), (beef with thin, long pieces of pasta) Rent or buy a snorkel, mask, and swim fins and go žrnovski makaruni (beef scones). In addition, peka is a delisnork snorkeli eling ng around the island. island. Or, rent the kayak kayak and pogačice (baked scones). cious Dalmatian Dalmatian dish dish of meat meat and vegetab vegetables les slow-coo slow-cooke kedd and snorkel set and go paddle to some of the islands cious around around Korčul Korčulaa and snork snorkel el there! there! Recommen Recommended ded is in the fireplace; you can find it at local restaurants, but the southeast coast of Badija island—there is a nice you usually must call in the order a day in advance since small beach for your kayak and some lovely snorke- it takes a long time to prepare. ling. Local desserts include klašun (shortbread pastry filled with chopped nuts), cukarin (cookies), and prikle (deep Local Local shops shopsoff offer er bike bike renta rentals ls (9-12 (9-12 Euro/d Euro/day ay)) if you you fried dough, popular throughout southern Dalmatia). choose to ride around the island. 1 Kočje Rock Formations ( Formations (Follow signs to Zrnovo. Continue straight through Brdo; the road turns to High up, in the interior interior of the island island,, is gravel. gravel.). High this nature preserve of massive limestone rock formations mations and chasms chasms.. It’s a bit tricky tricky and a lot of fun to climb on them. No equipment needed except good shoes. Legend tells of fairies living here. Free. (updated Oct 2016)

35.7.1 35.7.1 Ko Korč rčula ula Old To Town wn •

35.6.2 35.6.2 Cultu Culture re •

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Korkyra Baroque Festival, Festival, In various buildings in Korčula Korčula town.. An annual series of concerts showcasing casing a sele select ctio ionn of Europe Europe’s ’s leadi leading ng ensem ensembl bles es and soloists soloists special specialized ized in Baroque music. music. Ten or so eveni evening ng conce concerts rts are held held over over a perio periodd of two week weekss in early September (3–17 September 2016) along with a series of supporting events. Along with the festival’s high artistic credentials the event also promotes the richness of Korčula’s cultural monuments and the whole town as a unique architectural treasure. (updated Jun 2016)

There are two nightclubs. inquiree at touri tourist st booths booths for Moreška Moreška Sword Sword Dance Dance (inquir Fridays in summe summerr 21:00. 21:00. Morešk Moreškaa is location). Fridays sword dance that stages a battle over the fate of a young maiden. Korčula is the only place where this formerly Moorish dance remains in the world, and Korčulans take it seriously! About 16 guys really go

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Konoba Maslina, Maslina, Korčula Old Town ( As you enter the Old Town, heading northwards, turn right after going up the steps to the Great Land Gate ( Velki Revelin)), ☎ +385 ☎ +385 91 517 7420. 7420 . This eatery serves serves simple, yet delicious local food, such as pašticada (Dalmatian stewed beef) and pogačice (deep-fried dough), at very reasonable prices (50-60kn for a main dish). The portions are very generous generous and the service is amazingly friendly. Its menu mainly consists of meat dishes, not seafood. Drinks are around 10-15kn (for example, example, 15kn for 0,5l of beer). Don't miss out on the homemade local style cakes for desert (15kn for one portion). Roka 2, Korč Korčul ulaa Old Old Konoba Adio Mare, Mare, Sv. Roka Town, ☎ +385 (0) 20 711253 and 098 243845. Delicious and reasonably priced Dalmatian cuisine.

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The outdoor terrace is often full of tourists. English and German spoken. •

Konoba Marinero, Marinero, Korčula Old Town

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Konoba Mareta, Mareta, Korčula Old Town

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is only grown and made around Lumbarda Lumbarda (a (a Grk is village 7 km from Korčula Town). You won't find it in stores; nicer restaurants will have it. Otherwise, your best bet is to follow signs for any of the “Grk” vineyards on the main road on either side of Lumbarda. barda. Pride Pride in this local grape is so intense that that all the winemakers here produce quality wine. It’s worth the hunt!

Restaurant Kanavelić, Kanavelić, Korčula Old Town - Sveta Barbara 12, tel: (020) 711800, 711078 Because the grk vine has only female flowers, the plavac (literally, “little “little blue”) blue”) is usually usually planted mali grape (literally, nearby to pollinate pollinate nearby grk. Although the adjacent adjacent 35.7.2 Rest of Korčula Korčula island Pelješac Peninsula is more famous for plavac mali, Ko Fisherman’s Fisherman’s Evenings Evenings (Ribarska Večer ) (check rčula vineyards produce good plavac mali red wines too. with the tourist office for exact schedule and loca Vinum Bonum (on Punta Jurana, a small sidetowns of Brna (some (some Fridays), Fridays), Lomtions). The towns This street just west of the harbor, Korčula town ). This barda (Saturdays), and Vela Luka (Sundays) all host small winebar is a great place to sample all the local summertime outdoor block parties focused around wines and liquors. Knowledgeable and helpful staff. local cuisine and tradition. For 50–60kn you can get Tapas. Tapas. 8–30kn 8–30kn for a glass glass of wine. wine. (updated (updated Sep Sep a big plate of a variety variet y of fresh fish from from local fisher2016) men. You can also buy local desserts and maybe see some traditional traditional dance. dance. Free admission. admission. (updated Sep 2016) •

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35.9 35 .9 Slee Sleepp

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Restaurant Fresh Fresh - Kod Kina Liburna •

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Restaurant Grubinjac Grubinjac - Grubinjac, Zrnovo, Island of Korčula Konoba Malta Malta - Sveti Antun Konoba Mijo, Mijo, Pupnatska Luka, ☎ +385 98 168 5047.. 5047 Plokata 19. travnja travnja Restoran Planjak, Planjak, Korčula - Plokata 1921 tel: (020) 711015, 711202

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Pizzeria Cinciculjak, Cinciculjak, Nova Riva - (020) 715822 Cafe, Nova Marco Polo Mistique, Mistique, Restaurant and Cafe, Riva Buffet Tramonto, Tramonto, Korčula - Ismaelli 12, tel : 098 1921048 Konoba Mate, Mate, Pupnat, Korčula Island

35.8 35 .8 Dri Drink Korč Korčul ulaa is best best know knownn for its its two two dry dry whit whitee wine wines, s, grk and and pošip, which are not grown anywhere else in the world: •

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Rightt in the middl middlee of Kaleta booking centre. centre. Righ town, across Old Town main gate, offers it all: rooms, apartments, transfers, excursions, the lot. Friendly young staff will take good care of you. Camping Kamp Kalac Kalac.. 20 min walking from Korčula town, directly directly at the beach. There is a small taxi boat between the harbour of Korčula and the Campsite/ Campsite/Hotel Hotel,, opera operating ting twice twice an hour, for 10 Kn. Hostel Dragan’s Den is located 10–15 minutes from Korčula town centre and a short walk away from from sandy beaches. The hotel is well-suited well-suited for a couple couple or a larger larger group. Equippe Equippedd with en-suite en-suite bathrooms and kitchens. There is free Internet access as well and a swimming pool. The owner, Dragan, offers frequent free lifts in his minibus if you want to travel to Korčula town, cliff jumping, or the beach. Maria’s Place is Place is right in the center of town, steps from the cathedral. It has three double rooms with ensuite ensuite bathrooms, wifi, and a refrigerator. refrigerator. It is a good, nice, nice, clea clean, n, quiet quiet place place for for the budget budget travel traveler. er. Rooms from 20-35 Euro/person/night, depending on the season.

35.10 35.10 Sta Stay safe safe

light-b t-bod odie iedd dry dry whit whitee wine wine from rom Be very cautious about renting boats if you would like to Pošip is a ligh Smokvica and Čara in the middle of the island. spend spend timetrav time travell elling ing between between the small small islands islandsaroun aroundd the

35.11. GO NEXT NEXT

coast. Some of these boats are not well maintained and if you have little experience, you could easily suffer an engine failure. In this case you will need to be rescued by the company and this may take a long time, wasting your time and potentially putting you in danger as you drift! At least one of these companies (Korkyra Info) will not refund you fully in the case that this happens, despite the fact that this is a relatively common occurrence.

35.1 35 .111 Go ne nexxt •

'mil-yet') is one of nine Croatian Mljet (pronounced 'mil-yet') Mljet (pronounced National Parks. It is the greenest island in the Adriatic, with two salt lakes and a small island with a monastery on the big lake. A perfect getaway to get in touch with nature, Mljet is a must see if you visit the Dubrovnik county. Day trip excursions to Mljet from rom Korč Korčula ula are organ organise isedd by many many trave travell agen agenci cies. es. Mediterano Travel Agency can Agency can provide a return boat journey between Korčula Town and Mljet or an excursion including a guide. Korkyra Info In fo Travel Agency offers Agency offers an excursion (with a guide and including the National Park entrance fee) for 420kn. offers an excurs excursion ion Korčula Korču la Ad Adventure venturess offers to Mlje Mljett by luxu luxury ry yach yachtt (guid (guide, e, lunc lunch, h, snork snorkell elling ing gearand gear and National NationalPar Parkk entrance entrance fee fee included) for 525kn per person.

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Orebić (pronounced 'O-re-bich') is just a twenty minute ferry ferry ride away. It is a picturesque coastal village with lovely beaches and fantastic views of the Adriatic. Adriatic. Ferries Ferries depart Korčula Korčula Town multimultiple times per day, depending on season. In Orebić, tourists can sample local crafts and Adriatic cuisine. The restaurants offer a seafront atmosphere and the best octopus salad you ever tasted!

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Chapter 36

Lumbarda Korčula in in the Lumbarda is Lumbarda is a village on the island of Korčula Dalmatia region Dalmatia region of Croatia of Croatia..

Food Food and drinks drinks are avail availab able le at Konzu Konzum m in villag villagee cente centerr and Studenac (cheaper one) just 150 meters towards with main road from the village village center. Tisak kiosk at center during the summer season offers a great variety of newspapers and magazines from all over the world as well as call-cards and other. Souvenirs available at Pelorus travel and souvenirs shop 100 meters from center towards the harbour.

36.1 36 .1 Get Get in 36.2 36 .2 Get Get arou around nd 36.3 See 36.4 Do •

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Have a beach beach club club and Neilson Active Holidays. Holidays . Have yacht base which offers windsurfing, dinghy sailing, mountain biking and yachting. Their prices prices usually include accommodation and flights from the UK, though it is possible to arrange a stay without inclusive flights. smalll trave travell Pelorus travel & rental agency. agency. A smal agency located about 100 meters from the village center center offer offer equipm equipment ent rental rental and excurs excursion ions. s. Rent a kaya kayakk (200 (200 kn per per day day for a TriY TriYak). ak). Rent Rent a snor snorke kel,l, mask, mask, andsw and swim im fins fins (25kn/ (25 kn/da dayy or 110kn/ 110 kn/we week ek)) and go snorkeling snorkeling around the island. Or, rent the kayak and snorkel snorkel set and go paddle to some of the 14 islands in front or Lumbarda and snorkel there! Recommended ommended is the southeast coast of Barija Barija island – there is a nice small beach for your kayak and some lovely snorkeling. Rent a bicycle (7-12 Euro/day) and ride around the island.

Lina Lina Resta Restaura urant nt offers offersàà la carte carte menus menus,, board board meals meals,, bufbuffet breakfast, dinner and supper, 3 menus offered. There is a Dalmatian evening held once a week, where we offer Dalmatian music and gastronomic specialities. There is also a dancing evening on the restaurant terrace once a week, from from July 1st until September 1st. Newly Newly opened pizzeria Lina, next to the restaurant Lina, offers wide range range of exce excelle llent nt baker’ baker’ss oven oven pizza pizzas. s. More More is small smallffamily ily run resta restaura urant nt locate locatedd just just on sea sea leve level.l. Daily Daily fresh resh fish fish and seafood, meat specialty from grill, one of the very best places servicewise.

36.7 36 .7 Drink rink There are four bars in Lumbarda.

Excursion to Mljet to Mljet is is organised daily. daily. Mljet Mljet is the green greenes estt islan islandd in the Adria Adriatic tic,, has one one of nine nine CroaCroatian national parks, two salt lakes and a small island with a monastery on the big lake. A perfect getaway to get in touch tou ch with nature, Mljet is a must see if you visit the Dubrovnik county. You can also get a return trip to Mljet by a speed boat it takes cca. 30-35 minutes to get to Mljet (250kn return trip) or with old-style wooden boat (it takes cca 90 minutes and cost about 200 kn). 124

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Maestral - spacious, used to be restaurant for for older and local crowd. Mot – calmer café with good ice-cream and nice little terrace. Aqua – used to be the hip place on the island, island, now a younger crowd hang out. Birex – new cocktail bar at the village marina.

36.9. GO NEXT

36.8 Sleep There are two hotels in Lumbarda: Hotel Lumbarda (3 star) and Hotel Borik (2 star). There are also Lina Apartments and numerous apartments in private accommodation.

36.9 Go next

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Chapter 37

Mljet 37.1.1 Landscape Over 72% of the island of 388 square miles is forest. The island’sgeological structure consists of limestone and dolomite forming ridges, crests and slopes. A few depressions on the island of Mljet are below sea level and are known as blatine (“mud-lakes”) or slatine (“salt-lakes”). During the rain seasons all blatine are filled with water, and they turn to brackish during dry seasons.

37.1.2 Climate The climate is Mediterranean; an average air temperature in January is 48°F (9°C) and in July about 75°F (24°C).

convent

Otok Mljet (pronounced 'mil-yet') , in Southern Dalmatia, is one of the larger islands in off the coast of Southern Croatia. Although many people live on the island (mainly in the port of Sobra on the east end), the west end port of Polače holds the entrance to the national park of Mljet. This park includes an inland sea and another small island nested within it, and is a must-see for visitors.

37.1.3 National Park entrance fee There is an entrance fee of 125kn per person to enter the Mljet National Park. If you are joining an excursion organised by a travel agency to Mljet, it may not include this entrance fee, so make sure you check beforebooking.

37.2 Get in 37.2.1 By boat Sobra (east-end) and Polače (west-end) serve as ferry ports for the island.

37.1 Understand

From Dubrovnik Mljet was originally one of the Roman possessions (indeed, Polače means “palace” and holds some Roman ruins). Over the course of history, the isle traded hands with the rest of the Balkans (to the Ottomans, the AustroHungarians, etc.) It was even promised to Italy at one point in the early 20th century. Once the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes was declared, the Island became part of that group.

The Nona Ana catamaran operates twice daily from Dubrovnik to Sobra and Polače on Mljet island. Tickets are 54kn one way per person. Polače is nearer the National Park than Sobra. From the Pelješac peninsula

Ancient Greeks called the island “Melita”, or “honey,” There is car ferry operating five times a day between which over the centuries evolved to become the Slavic Prapratno on the Pelješac peninsula and the port of Sobra name, Mljet. on Mljet island. 126

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From Split

37.3.2 By bike

There is car ferry from Split on Saturday and speed boat from Lastovo on Tuesday and Thursday.

Mountain bikes can be rented in Pomena and Polače. This is a good way to get to and explore the National Park. However due to the island’s size, topography, and road conditions, it’s not realistic to expect to also explore the central and eastern parts of the island by bike from the west end.

From Korčula From Korčula you can get to Sobra on Mljet island by car ferry operated by Jadrolinija on Mondays and Fridays. The ferry leaves Korčula Town at 2pm and arrives at Sobra at 4:15pm. Note that Sobra is some distance from the National Park, which is located on the western side of Mljet island. Alternatively, join a day trip excursion from Korčula organised by a travel agency: •

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Kantun Tours organises an excursion to Mljet by speed boat (the journey is around 30 minutes oneway) for 250kn per person return (not including the 90kn entrance fee to the National Park). Mediterano Travel Agency can provide a return boat journey between Korčula Town and Mljet for 180kn per person or an excursion (including a guide and the National Park entrance fee) for 360kn per person.

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Korkyra Info Travel Agency offers an excursion (with a guide and including the National Park entrance fee) for 350kn per person. Korčula Adventures offers an excursion to Mljet by luxury yacht (guide, lunch, snorkelling gear and National Park entrance fee included) for 450kn per person.

37.2.2 By plane The island of Mljet has no airport. Dubrovnik Airport on the mainland provides the main international connection for the island.

37.3 Get around

Swim around, snorkel and try to find the large mussels (about 2 feet long) in the smaller lake (malo jezero). •

There is only one major road on the island which runs through or near most cities. The road is paved, but condition is only fair. Speed limit is usually 40 kph. For most of itslength, theroad has long uphill or downhill includes.

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MiniBrum has a rental office at the Sobra ferry terminal. They rent a variety of small, often cutely decorated, cars. In our case, a small diesel Fiat for two days was about €120 plus fuel.

Saplunara beaches (Start at Saplunara Bay then work your way to Blace beach ). There are three sandy beaches within Saplunara, starting with the bay itself. The bay is slightly overlooked, but as you work through, you eventually got to Blace beach which is 1/2 mile long and secluded among stones of Mljet southern shores. This hidden bay and beach is surrounded by pine trees, faces South and looks like a lagoon. The entrance from the sea to Blace beach is only 8 metres wide so the sea water inside the lagoon gets very warm and is possible to swim here even at the times when sea water outside is still cold and not suitable for swimming. Because of it’s isolated location, Blace Beach and Bay is popular among naturist and nudists too. Out of season, a lot of debris collects on the beach and is not cleaned making it significantly less appealing.

37.5 Do

37.3.1 By car

If you come without a car, you can rent one at several local agencies:

Mljet National Park (Nacionalni Park Mljet ). The two lakes ( jezera) and the monastery on the island in the middle of the large lake ( veliki jezera ). Boats leave for the monastery every hour or so, check the timetables within the national park. The monastery was previously a hotel until it was damaged in 1991 and now houses a cute restaurant called Melita. 90kn. (updated Sep 2016)

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X-Dream, Polace 8 ( Directly on the sea, close to the harbour ), ☎ +385998092244. 8-22. Local company for bicycle and kayak rental. They have a good service and veryprofessional staff. 100Kuna. There is a whole number of similar companies along the coast street in Polace. Rappel or Swim to Odysseus / Ulyssey’s Cave , Odysseus’s cave is situated under the village of Babino Polje. (Pull over on the road parallel to Babino Polje then it’s a 20 minute walk towards the south coast from there. ). A large egg shaped cave in the rocky coastline, accessed by a 30 metre tunnel

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used as a harbour by local fishermen. Legend has it that Odysseus found his shelter here after surviving a shipwreck, hence the name. He supposedly was shipwrecked here and due to the beauty of the island’s nature and his love for the nymph Calipso, Odysseus stayed on the island for 7 years. When the sun gets to the highest point, the water illuminates in a fantastic way. There’s also some gravity defying, quite amusing graffiti around the rocks. There are two entrances: one from the seaside (swimming) and the other one from on high (rappelling). As you walk along the path towards the cave, look out for thecute road sign painting on therocks! Once you're near the cave, it’s a natural beauty and popular for rappelling. Free. •

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Follow the hiking trail up to Veliki Grad, the highest mountain of Mljet (ca. 500m). The trail starts in Babino Polje.

37.6 Buy •

37.7 Eat There are several places to eat out in Pomena, around the harbour. Most appear to cater to the yachting fraternity and specialise in very fresh fish; live seafood are kept in tanks next to each restaurant. There’s also a great restaurant between the harbour and the hotel. It looks like it’s a private house but with a large barbecue area built on, and it does excellent barbecued fish. Besides that, there are several restaurants in villages Polače, Soline and in Babine kuće. There is also restaurant on the island of St. Mary.

37.8 Drink

Hotel Odisej (In the centre of the National Park Ml jet ), ☎ +385 20 475 777, fax: +385 20 475 973, email: [email protected]. Overpriced, dilapidated hotel with a perfect location. Could be fantastic, but seems to have barely been touched since the seventies, complacent with being the only hotel on the island and within the National Park. There may not be many places on the island that advertise online, but there is plenty of accommodation on the island, no doubt cheaper and better than this. Stermasi, Saplunara 2, Maranovici ( Go to Saplunara on the far east of the island and follow the big signs!), ☎ +385 20746179, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 15:00, check-out: 10:00. Accommodation on the far east of the island near the warm waters of Blace beach. Run by the Stermasi family, who seem to be expanding the number of places, each room has a personal touch to thedecoration andwith theexcellentrestaurant attached, it’s a place to stay to explore a different side to the island. €40-75. Vila Mungos, Sobra 35, ☎ +38520745224, e-mail: [email protected].

37.10 Stay safe 37.11 Go next On summer days speed boat goes from the port of Sobra to Dubrovnik every day at 6:15AM (Tuesday and Thursday at 6:00) and at 17:35. From port of Polače speed boat goes every day at 4:55PM From Sobra car ferry goes every day to Prapratno (peninsula Pelješac) at 6:00, 9AM and at 12:00, 16:00, 19PM (on Sunday and holiday goes at 10AMn not at 9:00).

With speed boat you can also go to island Korčula from Polače and Sobra on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and There’s not a lot of nightlife in Pomena; the hotel has Saturday, and with car ferry from Sobra on Monday, an inside bar with a cheesy band, and an outside shack Wednesday and Saturday. There is speed boat from Sothat sells drink. It’s best for a quiet getaway rather than a bra and Polače to island Lastovo on Tuesday and Thursparty! day. ToSplit you cango fromSobrawith car ferry on Saturday. •

Vila Mungos, Sobra 35, ☎ +38520745224, e-mail: [email protected].

37.9 Sleep •

Bourbon Hostel and Rooms Polace, Polace 8, ☎ +385 99 8092244. In the centre of the National Park Mljet, only 5m from the beach and only 150m from the main ferry port.

Chapter 38

Orebić Orebić is a port town in Dalmatia.

38.1 Understand 38.2 Get in 38.2.1 By car It is 67 kilometres from the main coastal Split-Dubrovnik road (the scenic Adriatic Highway), 227 km from Split and 113 km from Dubrovnik. Alternative from Split is A1 motorway towards Ravče and Ploče (then it is 248 km from Split to Orebić). There is ferry service from 38.2.4 By air Ploče to Trpanj (on Pelješac peninsula), which can be used to shorten car driving from Split (to 136 i.e. 157 Thenearest airports are in Dubrovnik andSplit. For more km) and enjoy 50 minutes of sailing in beautiful scenery. information visit Dubrovnik Airport or Split Airport For timetable and prices of ferry service visit Jadrolinija.

38.2.2 By bus

38.3 Get around

There are regular, scheduled bus services from Dubrovnik, Split and Zagreb. For timetable and prices visit Central Bus Station Dubrovnik, Bus Station Split or Zagreb Bus Station.

Theeasiest way to navigate this smalltown is by foot. The older part of the town straddles the coastline and a very pleasant walk connects the main beach at Trstenica (on the Dubrovnik side of Orebić) to the main ferry terminal.

38.2.3 By boat

For a faster moving, theoption is to hire bicycle or scooter in one of the tourist agencies. There are three main daily connections to Korčula:

Jadrolinija’s (Croatia’s national ferry company) Rijeka 1. Car ferry (also takes foot passengers), which leaves Dubrovnik service stops in nearby Korčula (this line also you at port Dominče, approximately 3-4 kms from serves Split, Stari Grad (island Hvar) and Mljet). There Korčula old town - this is more suited to moare also high-speed ferry services to Korčula from Split torists/cyclists. (stops in Hvar) and Dubrovnik. From Korčula there is a short hop over to Orebić by car ferry, passenger ferry 2. Passenger ferry, which leaves youdirectly at Korčula or taxi boat (latter driving from June to September). For old town. timetable and prices for ferry service visit Jadrolinija and 3. Taxi boat (from June to September), which also for high-speed services Krilo and Gv-line. Information leaves you in Korčula old town. about taxi boats one can get on the spot in ports. Usually they drive all day long. They take only passengers (some take bicycles too) and have acceptable prices (12 kunas Prices for passengers are same in all three options (12 or 1,5 euro per person). kunas or cca 1,5 euro). 129

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There is a local bus service throughout the peninsula with buses to Lovište and Trpanj as well as services to Dubrovnik & Zagreb.

•

Wind surfing in nearby Kučište (Perna) and Viganj

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Wine tasting

•

38.4 See •

Franciscan monastery (great panoramic view) you can drive or hike to the monastery. To get there, follow the Viganj/Loviste road out of Orebic (at the western side of the town) and at the Hotel Villa Julija, take the small road to the right - this is clearly sign-posted. Please be aware that the incline the entire length of this road is steep and careful driving is advised. However, the view from the monastery really is breathtaking. If you are going this far, you should enquire about eating at Panorama (read more in “Eat” section).

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Karmen

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Mount Eliah (Sveti Ilija) 961 m

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Gornja Nakovana

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Donja Nakovana with Nakovana cave

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Old captains’ houses

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Drinking fountains

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Maritime museum at promenade.

38.5 Do •

•

Biking. For information about cycling possibilities around Orebić see Cycling paths section in Tourist routes Orebić Hillwalking. Hillwalkers can tackle the majestic Mount Ilija and be rewarded with stunning panoramas from its peak. There are numerous marked paths starting in Orebić, Viganj and Kučište. For more information and map see Orebić - Hiking and mountain paths section at Tourist routes Orebić

•

Watersports

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Sailing

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Scuba diving. For information about diving in Orebić area read Diving section in Tourist routes Orebić . In Orebić there is Scuba diving center Adriatic . In Trstenik (25 km from Orebić) there is Diving center S 57. Sites have information about center, service, locations for diving and prices.

38.6 Buy Regional wines, spirits and olive oil.

38.7 Eat •

Amfora (at promenade, seaview ).

•

Petica (In Orebić Harbour ). A very nice fast food

Panorama (nearby Franciscan monastery ). This Boat excursions. Beside trip to Korčula city (derustic konoba (restaurant) serves up traditional Dalscribed in section “Get around”), there are numermatian dishes including prsut (ham) and cheeses, ous different options for boat excursions. Specifilarge casseroles served “under the bell” (you will cally, there are prearranged trips and, on the other need to order these in advance as they need to be side, there are arrangements in which one can hire cooked for several hours in advance under the emboat for a half or full day trip or even for hour or bers of a large open fire) and truffle dishes (the pasta two. These arrangements can include sailing around dish is a real treat). The view (as the name of the or visiting one or more islands or islets in Korčula restaurant suggests) is spectacular. archipelago (has 19 of them). Then they can include swimming in the crystal blue sea around islands or in Lumbarda, village on Korčula island with beautiful sandy beaches. If one chooses prearranged ex- 38.8 Drink cursion, it can be organized without or with food (fish picnics), and if one chooses to arrange his trip Famous Dingač and Postup (red) wine, Travarica (tradiby himself, there is option to enjoy meal with nice tional Brandy with herbs) atmosphere in restaurant on Stupe island or in one of the restaurants in Lumbarda. For more informa Meteor. 07-24. tion on islands and islets of Korčula archipelago visit Škoji For more information about excursions ask in Best. tourist agencies or go to Lučica (Little harbor) and arrange your trip directly with taxi boat drivers. X2. 07-24. •

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38.11. GO NEXT

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Lučica, Franjo Tuđman shore. 08-01. works only in season

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Bubamara. 07-24.

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Zona. 07-24.

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Palomino, Franjo Tuđman shore.

38.9 Sleep Tourism is one of the town’s most important industries and there is a plethora of accommodation available. Many locals rent out rooms (sobe) in their homes or full apartments. Most of this accommodation is withina short walking distance of the town’s beaches and you will see signs outside accommodation advertising rooms or apartments. Do not be afraid to bargain! There are also many well-equipped camp sites in and around the town which also cater to camper vans. Orebic is also home to a number of hotels including the •

•

•

•

•

Apartments Helena, A.Tina Ujevića 1, comfortable, 330 ft from next beach Hotel Indijan, Škvar 2, 20250 Orebić, ☎ +385 20 714 555, fax: +385 20 714 567, e-mail: [email protected]. Villa Antonio is an imposing guesthouse located in Postup (famous for its red wine) only a 5 minute drive from Orebic. Villa Antonio has exceptional views across the Peljesac Channel to the island of Korcula, as well as stunning views of Mount Ilija. Perched among rows of vines, it also features a large swimming pool (completed in 2009) and a full evening buffet dinner. Apartments Jakov,Keršina7,☎+385 915329638. Newly renovated, old stone house, two apartments, one for up to four persons and one for two persons. Hotel Adriatic, Šetalište Kneza Domagoja 8, ☎ +385 20 714 488.

38.10 Connect 38.11 Go next Day trips to Korčula (15 min.), Hvar, Mljet, Dubrovnik (1.5-2 hrs), Split (3 hrs), Narona/Vid, Mostar or Sarajevo. If you want to find out what Napoleon searched for, or what were the words of Jacques Cousteau when he dived in these waters, you are gonna have to come and check it out.

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Chapter 39

Ploče Ploče is a town on the Adriatic coast just north of the Be aware that the train from Sarajevo might have delays Neretva River delta in the Dubrovnik-Neretva County of so you won't always be in time for a connection you plan. Dalmatia.

39.1.3 By boat

39.1 Get in Ploce has a population of approximately 6,500 inhabitants. It is a notable seaport. The most important feature of town is his natural position through the valley of the Neretva River, which connects the central areas of neighboring Bosnia and Herzegovina with the Adriatic Sea. Town is situated in approximately half of distance between Split and Dubrovnik on the part of the road traffic along the Adriatic coast. It is also worth to mention that near the town are Bacina Lakes, located along the branches of the mountain of Biokovo.

39.1.1 By train

•

39.2 Get around 39.3 See 39.4 Do •

This commercial port is a great jumping-off point for tours to the old city of Mostar in Bosnia.

39.5 Buy

Trains from Sarajevo to Ploče: •

With Jadronlinija to/from Trpanj on the Pelješac peninsula, one hour.

07:00, arriving in Ploče at 11:00, via Mostar at 09:30 18:18, arriving in Ploče at 22:06, via Mostar at 20:40

for valid timetable look at http://www.hznet.hr/timetable, at bahn.de this connection was not found

39.6 Eat 39.7 Drink 39.8 Sleep 39.9 Go next

39.1.2 By bus Buses from Dubrovnik to Ploče run regularly from Dubrovnik (2-2½h). Every hour, day & night, so you should have no problem finding one. Some info is here (note they are from Dubrovnik!) but there are more buses. To Split you need some two hours. To Mostar its two, to Sarajevo itsfour hours bybus, which runs approx four times a day. 132

Chapter 40

Ston 40.2 Get in

Ston is a town in Dalmatia, Croatia.

You can book an excursion from Dubrovnik.

40.3 Get around 40.4 See

Panorama of Ston

40.1 Understand In order to know Pelješac as an unique and historical entity, it is best to start with Stonska Prevlaka (Ston Isthmus), the single connection with the mainland. Recessed among hills, it extends 1.5 km between the southern and northern coasts. Archaeological finds here show that Mediterranean and Balkan cultural groups were both present, and in prehistory an exchange of goods took place by land and sea. This area has attracted streams of men and merchants from the mountainous interior and the open Adriatic Sea. The Tabula Peutingeriana, the first geographical map of the Adriatic from ancient Rome, shows a fort at this locations with the name of Turris Stagni. Approaching from land, Roman walls can be seen near Zamaslina. Part of an Illyrian defensive strategy was the hill-fort at Humac, which controlled all of Malostonski Zaljev (Mali Ston bay). It was the guardfort of this small area, a desired location since ancient times due to itssheltered position andnatural features of this basin that include exceptional maritime and cultural qualities (now a protected preserve).

A section of the old defensive wall in Ston

A monumental defensive system, the largest fortification and urban achievements in Europe at the time. Dubrovnik invested huge sums of money and employed the many builders. During the first thirty years, the defensive walls, the longest in Europe, were built from one side of the peninsula to the other.

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40.5 Do 40.6 Buy 40.7 Eat •

•

•

Bakus. Ston. Excellent seafood. Tavern Bota Sare. Is located on the waterfront of Mali Ston. Restaurant offers variety of seafood, but when in Ston you have to eat oysters. Oysters of Ston are particularly famous. Vila Koruna Apartman and rooms, ☎ +38520754999, fax: +38520754642. Mali Ston. Enjoy oyster delicacies that are cultivated in Bay of Mali Ston.


Vila Koruna Apartman and rooms, ☎ +38520754999, fax: +38520754642. Mali Ston. Located at Mali Ston on the peninsula of Pelješac, along the sea, only 50 km away from Dubrovnik. It has 6 luxurious rooms and 2 fully furnished apartments (TV-SAT, phone, air-conditioning). Maximum capacity is 21 beds, together with a restaurant with capacity of 300 seats (indoors & outdoors), banquet hall all air–conditioned and summer terrace. It is a comfortable villa suitable for seminars, work meetings, promotions etc.


Chapter 41

Northern Dalmatia Northern Dalmatia is a coastal region in Croatia. It is famous for its striking scenery, truly breathtaking national parks, and many beautiful and unspoilt islands. It is home to several exceptionally beautiful and historic coastal cities and towns. Many of these destinations are traditional and picture-postcard. It has much to offer as a holiday destination, but is not so prone to the extreme tourist influxes that Southern Dalmatia experiences. It consists of the two counties of Zadar and Sibenik-Knin.

41.2 Other destinations 41.2.1 Islands

41.1 Cities •

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•

•

•

•

Zadar – largest city in the region and the seat of Zadar county. It is a regional transport hub from which most parts of the region can be reached whether by railroad, bus or ferry. The city features a beautiful Old Town with many old buildings and 34 churches for visitors to admire. The city is particularly beautiful during the summer months when many restaurants offer al fresco dining in the various courtyards and squares. Almost all of the Dalmatian islands can be reached from the port, which offer a whole other aspect to the region’s appeal. Šibenik – medieval town 80 Km (45 miles) south of Zadar and the seat of Sibenik-Knin county. It is perched on a gentle hill and is very close to the Krka Falls and Kornati island group, perhaps the best-known Croatian archipelago.

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Ugljan

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Pašman

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Dugi Otok

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Kornat

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Murter

41.2.2 Parks •

Krka National Park

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Kornati National Park

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Telašćica Nature Park

41.3 Understand

Biograd na Moru – a popular tourist town between Zadar and Šibenik

•

•

Turistička zajednica Zadarske županije ( Zadar region tourist board ). (updated Sep 2016) Turistička zajednica Šibensko-Kninske županije (Tourist Board County Šibenik-Knin). (updated Sep 2016)

Nin – small town a short distance north of Zadar. It has a small cluster of historic buildings on a small island away from the predominantly residential parts of the town. Nin is well situated for access to the island of Pag with its beautiful sandy beaches. Nin 41.4 Talk also has a large stretching sandy beach of its own, about half a mile away from the historic core. The language of the region is Croatian. As the area is not Novigrad. A beautiful village located some 20 miles particularly touristy, there is a marked difference in the number of people who can speak other languages such as east of Zadar. English, German and French. Therefore it is advisable to Knin – the former capital of the medieval Kingdom take a small phrase book or just learn some basic phrases that may help. of Croatia. 135

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41.5 Get in The main point of access to the region for most foreigners is Zadar International airport, several miles north of the main city. You can travel from the airport to the main city bus/train station for a cheap farefrom directly outside the front of the main terminal building. Then again, it is possible to hire a car from the airport which will give you much more flexibility.

41.6 Get around Buses are clean, efficient and punctual in Croatia. In fact, many locals regularly use public transport instead of driving. Of course, though, car hire will allow you to be more flexible however may work out more expending depending on your travel plans. Buses run regularly around the local area and buses run to Zagreb, the capital, and many other larger Croatian cities from the central bus station. A train line also runs south toward Split and Dubrovnik.

41.7 See •

Zadar’s Old Town. Take an afternoon out to relax and experience a traditional Adriatic City. Relax in the cafés and restaurants, visit the many museums and art galleries, climb the tower of the cathedral or just take a dip in the sea. Alternatively, take a lowcost ferry out to one of the beautiful islands from the port right next to the Old Town.

41.8 Do 41.9 Go next

Chapter 42

Biograd na Moru Biograd na Moru is a small, tourist city in Dalmatia, Croatia near Zadar.

42.1 Understand •

•

Hotel Bolero.

•

Hotel Ilirija.

42.10 Go next

Turistička zajednica grada Biograd na Moru (Biograd Tourist Board ). (updated Sep 2016)

42.2 Get in Small bus station is located in a city center. There are several buses from Zadar (17 HRK, September 2009).

•

•

Krka National Park about 55 km away.

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Šibenik city (about 50 km). 20 km away from Krka.

•

Zadar city (30 km).

•

42.3 Get around One can go to Pasman Island by ferry (11 HRK, September 2009).

42.4 See 42.5 Do 42.6 Buy 42.7 Eat •

Pizzeria Cocolino

42.8 Drink 42.9 Sleep There are many private accommodations as well as some hotels. 137

Kornati National Park (archipelago) excursions. Prices around 200 HRK (on some boats unlimited water and wine for free).

Split city (136 km). Trogir is also worth visiting and is located only 28 km from Split.

Chapter 43

Dugi Otok Dugi Otok (Croatian for Long island ) is the seventh largest island in the Adriatic Sea, part of Croatia. It is located off the Dalmatian coast, west of Zadar.

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43.1 Towns and villages

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Chapel of Sveti Rok in Sali •

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Savar - Known for it’s picturesque church at the tip of a small peninsula, the cave Strašna Peć and stone quarries. Brbinj - Surrounded by thick olive groves. Brbinj lies between Jaz and Lučina bays. At the other, Western, shore of the island there is the Bay of Brbišćica surrounded by high cliffs with numerous caves scattered among them. Dragove - Known for Veli Žal , a sandy beach across the Mežanj island. Božava - Surrounded by pine forests. Božava is a popular tourist destination. A selection of accommodation options is available there. The village is overlooking a sheltered bay with various fishing and pleasure boats moored there. Soline - a small village at the head of a big Luka Solišćica bay at the north of the island. Veli Rat -LocatedintheCunabay(partoftheLuka Solišćica) at the northern end of the island. Verunić - For Saharun, a white sandy beach surrounded by pine forests and considered the most beautiful on the island. The nearby bay Pantera (also part of the Luka Solišćica) is popular among the dives because of a ship wreck.

43.2 Other destinations Sali, old harbour

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Sali - The biggest settlement of the island. It’s name comes from the nearby salt pans. The village is the “gate” to the Telašćica Nature Park.

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Zaglav

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Žman

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Telašćica Nature Park –isabaylocatedinthesoutheastern part of the island and has been declared a nature park in 1988. Here span 25 small beaches on nearly 70 km of coastline and the salt lake of Mir, arguably known for its therapeutic qualities.

43.3 Understand

Luka - Sandwiched between the mountain Vela Dugi Otok is one of the less touristy islands in Croatia and Straža, the highest peak on the island, and the bay as such offers beautiful landscapes and unspoiled nature. of Boka. Luka is known for its therapeutic muds. All the villages are located on the side facing inland. 138

139

43.6. SEE

The island is 45 km long and up to 5 km wide and is crossed by a single paved road that runs throughout its length from north to south. Vela Straža with its 338 m is the highest peak of the island.

43.3.1 Tourist information In Sali •

1 Turistička Zajednica Dugi Otok (Tourist union Dugi Otok ), Obala Petra Lorinja bb, Sali, ☎ +385 23 377 094, e-mail: [email protected]. (updated view from the lighthouse in Veli Rat Oct 2016)

In Božava •

Turistička Zajednica mjesta Božava (Tourist association Božava), ☎ +385 23 377 607, e-mail: [email protected]. (updated Oct 2016)

43.4 Get in

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•

•

43.4.1 By boat •

•

Jadrolinja vehicle ferries from Zadar to Brbinj (twice a day in low season, 3 times a day in high season) and Božava (calling at islands of Rivanj and Sestrunj) G&V Line passenger ferries from Zadar to Sali and Zaglav (some calling at the island of Iž)

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•

1 Strašna peć. A cave between Savar and Luka. In 1904 it was visited by Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Crkva Sv. Pelegrina (Church ofSt. Peregrine). A pre-Romanesque church at an islet connected Savar. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Svetište Male Gospe (Sanctuary of the Nativity of Virgin Mary). a pilgrimage destination at the mount Dumbovica, close to Dragove. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Saljsko Polje. over 700 years old olive groves. According to a local legend the trees were planted by the Greeks more than 2000 years ago. (updated Oct 2016) Roman ruins

43.5 Get around 43.5.1 By bus Local buses Brbinj - Božava - VeliRat , Sali-Zaglav-Luka and some fewer connections between Brbinj and Sali

43.5.2 By car If traveling by car note that the only gas station on the A submarine pen close to Dragove island is at Zaglav.

43.6 See •

1 Veli Rat. A picturesque cape with an old lighthouse. The lighthouse (42m high) is in operation for more than 150 years. Inside there are two apartments which could be rented. (updated Oct 2016)

•

Submarine pens – which were built for the Yugoslav People’s Army. They were carved inside a natural hill and is now abandoned and freely accessible from sea or by foot. A couple of them could be found at the inlets on the north and south of Dragove, yet another one in approx. 2.5 km northwest of Božava.

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43.7 Do •

Yearly festival “Saljske Uzance” – in Sali over the weekend prior to the feast of the Assumption (15 August)

43.8 Eat 43.9 Drink 43.10 Stay safe 43.10.1 Cope The only ATM on the island is in Sali (next to the Tommy supermarket). Nevertheless, the money could be exchanged at every post office there.

43.11 Go next •

Zadar

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Kornati islands

Chapter 44

Kornati National Park Nacionalni park Kornati (Kornati National Park ), Butina 2, Murter, ☎ +385 22 435740, e-mail: [email protected] . (updated Oct 2016)

Passages between the Kornati islands

Landscape at the island of Kornat

It is one of the Croatian national parks . The park’s territory includes the area around the Donji Kornati (Lower Kornati) a group of westernly islands (including the biggest one – Kornat ) of the Kornati archipelago , which is located in the northern part of Dalmatia, south from Zadar andwestfrom Šibenik, in theŠibenik-Knin county.

The uniqueness of archipelago is that it’s area is densely “populated” by bigger and smaller islands, so the passages between them are sometimes almost like a maze among the rocks.

44.1 Understand

From the neighboring islandы of Pasman and Dugi Otok, the archipelago is separated by straits, and from the island of Murter by the bay of Murtersko more (Murter’s sea).

Two-thirds of thepark is occupied by theisland of Kornat - the largest one in the archipelago with an area of more The name of the archipelago is the plural form of the than 32 km². The length of the island - 25 km, the width name of the largest island, called Kornat (Italian: isola is about 2.5. Incoronata). There are no permanent settlements in Kornati. Simple houses in various small bays such as Vrulje, Kravjačica, Lavsa and others are used by main- 44.1.3 Flora and fauna land landowners as temporary shelters. Most of the land Despite the semi-desert appearance of a large part of the owners are from the island of Murter and Dugi Otok. islands, flora and fauna of the archipelago is rich both on the land and underwater. There are 537 species of plants 44.1.1 History there, with trees are mostly represented by pines and olive trees. In 1980 the area was declared a national park. In addition to a variety of rodents, snakes, lizards, insects, fauna of the island is presented by martens, squirrels, and birds, the most notable of which were owls, fal44.1.2 Landscape cons, kestrels, buzzards and cormorants. The park includes 89 islands with a total area of 50 square The seabed consists of reefs of different shapes, rich of kilometers and a coastline exceeding 238 km. The total coral, pearl shells and shellfish. The waters are rich of areaofthe park with the sea area - 220 square kilometers. fish. 141

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CHAPTER 44. KORNATI NATIONAL PARK

44.1.4 Climate The average monthly temperature for January is 7.3 °C (45.1 °F), in July it is 23.9 °C (75.0 °F); the average sea temperature in winter is 14 to 15 °C (57 to 59 °F) and in summer 22.8 °C (73.0 °F).

44.2 Get in Kornatian “crowns”

44.5 See •

A tripper boat in Kornati

44.2.1 By boat

•

•

The only way to visit the park is by boat: • •

•

By organised day-trips from Zadar, Šibenik, Murter and other tourist locations around By private or chartered boats

44.3 Fees/permits Visiting the park is paid on per boat basis. For organised trips the entrance fee is included into a price of a trip.

•

•

•

If visiting by a own or chartered boat then tickets could be either bought at some tourist agency outside the park, alternatively the park’s rangers are issuing tickets in situ , but bear in mind that this way you'd pay twofolds of the “outside” price.

Krune (Crowns). A geological phenomenon: a rock, “growing” out of the sea. Reach up to 100 meters as in the underwater part, and in the freeboard. Hiking on the crowns is prohibited! (updated Oct 2016) 1 Magazinova škrila. A flat limestone plateau on theisland of Kornat, inclined at an angle of 40°. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Tureta. Ruins of a Byzantine fortress at the Kornat island, just opposite the island Levrnaka. The oldest building at the archipelagos dating from the VI century. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Crkva Gospe od Tarca (church of Our Lady of Tarac ). A modest late Romanesque church. Here also can be seen remains of an early Christian threenave Byzantine basilica. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Crkvica na Piškeri (church at the island of Piškera). (updated Oct 2016) Ilirske gradine. Remains of Illyrian settlements are located on several islands of the archipelago. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Mana (island of Mana ). Quite a curiosity as there in the late 50s was a movie shooting location. Some remains to the stone decorations still can be seen there. (updated Oct 2016)

For more details check the links Ticket prices and fees 44.6 Do and Spots of comission ticket sales at the bottom of Useful The park is popular with boaters, divers, wildlife enthuinformation page at the park’s official site. siasts and even cyclists.

44.4 Get around Between the islands only by boat.

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Swim in the islands’ bays

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Hike the islands, but be respectful

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Dive, but follow the rules

143

44.11. STAY SAFE

park. For details check the Accommodations page at the park’s web side.

44.11 Stay safe Theclosest ambulances arelocatedin theisland of Murter or in Sali (Dugi Otok).

44.12 Go next Remains of the cinema decorations at the island of Mana

•

•

44.7 Buy •

A small convenience shop is located in the on the Marina Piškera on the islet of Vela Panitula. It’s closed out of season.

44.8 Eat

A konoba at the bay of Vrulje

There are a few restaurants scattered among the bays and the islands. The most of the restaurants there are open only in season.

44.9 Drink Refreshments could be bought at the head of the bay Mir.

44.10 Sleep Camping is only allowed at the authorised locations (Ravno, Žakan, Levrnaka). A few private accommodations could be found inside the

Sali and other locations on Dugi Otok Telašćica Nature Park – is often combined with Kornati into the same organised day trip Zadar

Chapter 45

Murter Murter (Morter or Mortero in Italian) is an island in the Croatian part of the Adriatic sea, located in central Dalmatia. A small village on the north-western part of the island also bears the name.

•

45.1 Understand The island is populated by around five thousand people, with two thousand of them living in the village of Murter. The island lies in the northwest part of the Šibenik archipelago and is separated from the mainland by a 20 m wide sea canal at Tisno. The canal is spanned by a 37 m draw-bridge. The island covers an area of about 18.7 km², and the highest point is the peak of Raduč at 125 m above sea level.

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The southwestern coastline is predominantly of steep slopes divided by many sandy coves. The island has an assortment of both sandy and rocky beaches.

45.1.1 Tourist information •

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Turistička zajednica općine Murter-Kornati, Rudina bb, Murter, ☎ +385 22 434 995, e-mail: [email protected]. (updated Oct 2016)

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Turistička zajednica Betina, Trg na moru 2, Betina, ☎ +385 22 436 522, e-mail: [email protected]. (updated Oct 2016) Turistička zajednica općine Tisno, Istočna gomilica 1A, Tisno, ☎ +38522438604, e-mail: [email protected]. (updated Oct 2016) Turistička zajednica Jezera, Put Zaratića 3, Jezera, ☎ +385 22 439 120, e-mail: [email protected] . (updated Oct 2016)

45.2 Townships Murteris thebiggest andoldest settlement, thethree other settlements on the island are Betina, Jezera and Tisno. 144

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Murter was named in 1715 and carries the same name as the island. It offers hotels, homestays condominiums, marinas, nice quiet beaches, numerous restaurants and taverns. The township also has many sports facilities providing for tennis, basketball, fivea-side football and water sports. In the April the regatta Murter-Kornati helps start off the season. More traditional celebrations are St. Roko annually on 16 August and Nativity of the Virgin Mary on 8 September. The static population of around 2000 swells fourfold in the peaktourism season. The town has bank facilities, a health clinic, pharmacy, automobile repair shops, scuba diving shops, an open air cinema and marina facilities in Hramina bay. Tisno was first mentioned in 1474. It is split in two halves by a narrow straight. A long quay has been built along the narrowest part of it and a moveable bridge there connects the island with the mainland. There are a few shops in the town. Tisno has become an important religious centre due to pilgrimages to Our Lady of Caravaggio , frequented by believers from Šibenik and Zadar. Betina, on the northeastern side of the island near Murter, is considered to be one of the most beautiful places in the Adriatic with notable architectural attractions. The historical central part of Betina is built on the eastern slopes of Cape Artić, at the northern opening to the Murter passage. In Zdrače bay there is a marina and shipyard and a local beach. Betina has nearly 100 small family-run shipyards with a tradition of strong hand-built and long-lasting traditional wooden boats. Jezera is the smallest settlement on the island and spreads around the sheltered bay on the southeast side of the island. Its centre is on the north side of the bay. ACI marina at Jezera is situated on the south side of the bay. Jezera is a central Dalmatian fishing centre and the site of the holiday village “Lovišća”, situated in Lovišća bay to the northwest of Jezera.

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45.6. SEE

45.3 History The island has been populated for nearly two millennia. An Illyria (Ancient Roman) settlement known as Colentum has been found near Betina. Documents from In 1293 indicate that Murter was called “Villa Magna' meaning 'the big village'. During the 13th century there were two documented settlements on the island; Jezera and Veliko selo, Srimač (now Murter). Betina and Tisno were most likely built around the beginning of the 15th century, during thetime of conflict with theOttoman Empire. The population of the island increased during that time as refugees fled from the Turks. Beaches, quality accommodation and supporting services make Murter an ideal tourist destination and accordingly the island has a history as a popular regional destination.

45.6 See •

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45.4 Get in •

45.4.1 By bus

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Regional buses from Tribunj, Vodice, Šibenik Daily buses to Zadar, Rijeka, Zagreb and various destinations along the coast.

45.4.2 By plane The closest airports are in Split and Zadar. For Split airport it would be more reasonable to get to Trogir straight from the airport (instead of Split proper), then take a bus from there.

45.4.3 By car Cross the bridge at Tisno. All four towns on the island are readily accessible by road using a private car.

The local graveyard, with historic early Croatian graves is situated on the Gradina cape. Remains of Roman buildings, including the remains of the antique settlement at Colentum. Visit the foot of the Gradine elevation, at Hramina cove and elsewhere.

45.7 Do •

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St. Michael’s church, St. Rock’s chapel, and the church of Our Lady of Gradina are the oldest churches on the island.

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Slanica cove, said to be the most beautiful beach of the Šibenik Riviera. Murter had a military base built on it during World War II, with tunnels bored deep inside the island. Some locals believe the site is haunted. There are 3 marinas on the island

45.8 Buy The population of Murter traditionally deal with agriculture and fishing and are well known for these skills, as well as being producers of excellent olive oil.

45.9 Eat 45.10 Drink 45.11 Sleep

1 Podizni most u Tisnome (Moveable bridge Murter offers various accommodation including hotels, in Tisno). 15 May-14 Sep 09:00-09:30, 17:00homestays and condominiums. 17:30;15 Sep-14 May M W F 09:00-09:30. The island is connected with the mainland by a moveable Hotel Colentum, Put Slanice bb, ☎ +385 22 bridge. In season they open the bridge twice a day 431100, fax: +385 22 435255, e-mail: info@hotelfor 1/2 hour to pass through the boats. Out of season colentum.hr. A modern hotel of 98 rooms. Several the bridge is opened only 3 times a week. (updated terraces look over the Kornati archipelago and the Nov 2016) sea. Open from April to October. Open-air swimming pool, AC, central heating, TV, private parking, onsite restaurant, dogs are permitted 45.5 Get around •

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45.5.1 By bus •

Regional buses also connect the major settlements on the island to each other.

Hotel Stomorin, Put gradine bb ( Located in the marina Hramina), ☎ +385 22 434 411, fax: +385 22 435 242, e-mail: [email protected]. 10 rooms and 36 beds. Each room has a view of the marina and the sea. All rooms have A/C and a TV.

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Heartofdalmatia.com (Apartments in Murter ), Mehanova 6, 22243, ☎ +38598331421. 120 apartments in Murter for rent.

45.12 Connect See Croatia#Telephone Emergency services •

Emergency: 112

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Police: 92

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Fire Brigade: 93

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Ambulance 94

45.13 Go next •

Kornati National Park

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Vodice

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Prvić

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Šibenik

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Zadar

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Krka National Park

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Dugi Otok and Telašćica Nature Park

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Vransko lake

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Split, international airport, ferry terminal and harbour

Chapter 46

Novalja 46.2.3 By boat

Novalja is a city on the island of Pag.

There is a catamaran line between Novalja and Rijeka. It’s very fast (2.5 hours) and very comfortable.

46.1 Understand With approximately 3,350 inhabitants, Novalja was known as a popular family resort due to its pristine beaches and clean sea, but recently it has been nicknamed “The Croatian Ibiza”. Reason behind that is the beach Zrće, declared as the #1 spot in Croatia, with its numerous clubs popular among Croatian celebrities and affluent youth.

46.3 Get around

from other cities Bus in Croatia

Gajac is a planned apartment community 2 kilometers

Although 99% of the visitors use a car, you can walk around downtown due to its small and tight streets and a large pedestrian zone. Scooters are also very popular, and the city has a rental service with fair prices. Quads are also popular since there are many unpaved country roads to test your off-road skills. If you still decide to use a car around downtown, parking fees are a bit pricey but 46.2 Get in there is always a place to park, specially near the beachfront. Public transport consists of three beach shuttles which are actually open minivans that connect downtown, 46.2.1 By car Gajac and Zrće for a 10 kn (1.5 euro) ticket. There is If coming from north or Zagreb, take the A1 highway and also a rent-a-car and three gas stations. If you're lucky follow the direction Split. The highway has two major enough to have your own boat, this is also an excellent tunnels, Mala Kapela and Sveti Rok, both over 5 kilome- way to explore around since there are many hidden bays ters long. In tourist season, delays are often in front of and beaches. the tunnels, so be patient, but don't worry, Croatia’s tunnels are among the safest in Europe. When you pass the tunnel Sveti Rok and the Maslenica bridge, look out for 46.4 See Pag/Novalja exit. Follow the signs saying Novalja or Pag. If you're coming from Istria, you can use the A1 high- Novalja is a small city, and everything important is in the way, but use the D8 (better known as Adriatic Highway - three main streets, all well connected, so you won't find Jadranska magistrala on Croatian) and follow the sign to any addresses here. Pag (50 km after Senj). You can use the ferry or drive 60 km south and access it via bridge. Listen to HRT-HR1 The Roman aqueduct. It was manually chiseled out in or HRT-HR2 (the only difference is that the second one solid rock and is 1042 m long, about 60 cm wide and plays more up-to-date music) because every hour traffic its height varies. There are 9 ventilation holes along its route and the highest is at 44 m above the level of sea. information is given in English, German and Italian. Aqueduct provided with drinkable water the locality and various artisan workshops situated in it as well as ships stoppingby. For many centuries it was out of function and 46.2.2 By bus was rediscovered in the 19th century. At the beginning of There are several bus lines from Zagreb or inland to No- the 20th century it was again used for three short periods. valja, but some of them operate only in tourist season. Nowadays the aqueduct can be visited in about 150 m However, Zadar is 60 km away fromNovalja, andit’s con- length and local authorities constantly work on its further nected to it via bus. Here you can find buses to Novalja revitalization.

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away from Novalja. It has a long beachfront sidewalk Novalja. ideal for jogging or walking, scenic parks for relax and picnic, and very clean beaches. It’s also very quiet so it’s ideal for families. Stara Novalja is an oldbay village 3 kilometer away from Novalja. Features a public (but often overcrowded) beach and many private accommodation. A great number of real estate development is in Stara Novalja, but be careful, prices are often sky high. Sometimes, during the strong Adriatic wind bura, car ferries operate through a port just at the end of Stara Novalja (just follow the road direction north, it gets you straightthere)butthis occursrarely. The western part of the bay is unpopulated so there are many small beaches accessible only via boat which are great if you enjoy nudism.

46.6 Buy

The promenade in Novalja, or Riva, has small stands with souvenirs and similar stuff, as well as many fast food stands and few cafes. The city itself has few shops providing everything for a decent vacation, and they are all located downtown. Novalis is the biggest, and it even has a scooter dealership. Fish market provides daily fresh fish, but in order to buy it, you have to get up early becausemost of it is sold by 9AM. Three large supermarkets (Kerum, Hiper Novalis and Kastelo) are located in the entrance to the city. Newsstands are located everywhere, Zrće is a beach located 2 kilometers from Novalja, right with drug stores and postal offices. A special blend of across the crossing for mentioned Gajac. It features three cheese is the symbol of the island, so don’t forget to try it main clubs, Papaya, Aquarious, Noa, Kalypso and Eu- (especially if you’re planing to buy it, since it has a unique phoria. During the day it’s a normal beach with many taste and it’s quite pricey). things to do (bungee jumping, jet ski...) The party starts somewhere after 3PM, with the so-called “After beach party”, which can include foam and other themed parties. Then, after midnight, it gets out of control. As mentioned 46.7 Eat above, Zrče enjoys high media coverage so it’s popular among Croatian celebrities, and many Croatian popular Lamb from the island of Pag is a nationwide specialty, singers open the summer season right there. The clubs so don’t forget to try it. The city has many restaurants host internationally acclaimed DJs, and many electronic with fair prices, and also many fast food stands. Pag’s and house music events are held there. The beach has its sheep cheese is worldwide famous and delicious specialty own parking lot, but avoid it if you can, because it can get which has won lots of gold medals for top quality and extremely crowded. If possible, walk to the beach or use with modern cheese factory its processed and delivered the shuttle. There is really no rule when does the party to many countries, but because of limited production its price is little higher cca 30 to 35 eur/kg. Wine producend, but all-day partying is not unusual. tion is an oldest profession and you can find best quality Caska is a beach a bit smaller than Zrće, but more suitwhite (called Zutica) and rose and its taste is unique and able for families. Basically, the two beaches are in the comparable to French vines. There is a Boskinac bottled same bay and you can walk from one to another if you product of good and tasty wine. Don't need to mention don't mind the sharp rocks bordering them. There is also best quality fish and best fish restaurants on the island. an urban legend about ruins below the sea surface near Caska but no one has ever seen anything yet, although some claim that the top of the lighthouse is still visible when the sea level is low. 46.8 Drink

46.5 Do

Lounge bar Cocomo is the first stop in the city, and don’t go to Zrće beach before going there. Except Cocomo, there is a small street full of bars and cafes if the overcrowded lounge bar isn't your thing.

Besides party, Novalja and its surroundings offer interesting sights. Beach Ručica in the village Metajna is a prime example. It gives a feeling of being in a canyon, and it has crystal clear water and pristine sand. Look for other hid- 46.9 Sleep den beaches (they often have a sign) but be careful, most of the roads leading to them are in poor condition. North There are lots of 3- and 4-star hotels such as Hotel of Novalja is a small village of Lun, great for getting away Boskinac, Loza, Liburnija, Hotel Villa Palcic and Hotel from the party hustle. Luna, but the majority of accommodation resorts lie in http://www.ZrceNovalja.com: Things to do, nightlife, private accommodation in high-class apartments in Noevents on Zrce Beach, summer program with all the par- valja and surrounding nice villages which are more suitties and festivals, where to go out, where to eat, places able for a family vacation. There are also agencies with to stay. All you need to know to plan your holidays in complete accommodation service for the guests.

46.13. GO NEXT

46.9.1 Budget •

Camping Strasko, ☎ +385053661226. Cheap camping with beach access. There is also a place to rent tents if needed.


1 Villa Margareta Novalja, Matice hrvatske 18, ☎ +385 53 661 101. Red, green and blue apartments. Free Internet access.

46.9.3 Splurge

46.10 Connect The city features many pay-phones, and the cell phone signal coverage is excellent. There is a Wi-Fi enabled bar right near the center called Gaudino. There are lots of cyber-internet cafes as Harpun, but it’s highly overpriced (20-30 kn - 3-4 euro for an hour)

46.11 Stay safe Novalja has a reputation of being a very safe city, however, party lifestyle has its consequences. First of all, drug presence on the beach Zrće is extremely high, so the police often patrols around there. Because of the beach’s high reputation and fame in Croatia, many young people who cannot afford to stay in Novalja come for a weekend and sleep in the car, drink in the car and then go to party. Picking a fight is possible with them, so don’t respond to provocations. Conservative Croatian public often refers to Novalja as the Sodom and Gomorrah of Croatia. Public sex is a common thing, so don't be surprised. Condom vending machines are located around the beach, so feel free to use them. But in general Novalja is safe place and top tourist destination with respectful and most hospitable inhabitants which will make you return to this location again and again.

46.12 Cope 46.13 Go next •

Pag (town)

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Chapter 47

Pag (town) Pag isatownontheislandofthesamenamein Dalmatia.


47.1 Understand

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47.2 Get in 47.3 Get around 47.4 See 47.5 Do 47.6 Buy 47.7 Eat Eat the delicious Pag lamb. The lambs of the island of Pag eat a diet of sage, rosemary and lavender and, as a result, the taste is mild and flavorful. The island is also famous for its Pag cheese.


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Hotel Tony is a about a 10-minute drive from the center of the City of Pag. It is a clean, friendly hotel with an excellent restaurant. Make sure to have a shot of the house schnapps if you go there. Boškinac, Škopaljska ulica 220, ☎ +385 53 663 500, e-mail: [email protected]. Hotel, restaurant and winery. (updated Mar 2016) 150

Novalja

Chapter 48

Pašman Pašman is an island with a surface area of 60 square kilometers, separated fromthemainland bythePasman channel, which is strewn all over with many islets.

48.7 Do

48.1 Towns and villages

48.9 Drink

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Kraj

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Pašman

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Mali Pašman

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Mrljane

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Banj

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Neviđane

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Cimera

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Ždrelac

48.8 Eat

48.10 Stay safe •

48.11 Go next

48.2 Other destinations 48.3 Understand 48.4 Get in Pasman is connected to the mainland by the BiogradTkon ferry line, and by bridge over the Zdrelac strait with the island of Ugljan, with which it shares similar vegetation. The sea currents in the strait change course every six hours, making the sea water here the cleanest in the Adriatic.


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Con Sole, Travel agencyCon Sole in Tkon.

The Franciscan Monastery of St. Dujam in Kraj. The Benedictine Monastery of St. Kuzma and Damjan on Mt. Cokovac. 151

Chapter 49

Ražanac Razanac is a typical Dalmatian fishermen’s village and small harbour on the coast of the southern part of the Velebit Channel, 24 km northeast of Zadar. Chief occupations are farming, livestock breeding, fishing and tourism. The coast is poorly indented and chiefly bare from the cape of Debela Nozica in the north-west to the cove of Bokulja in the south-east. In front of the village are low andbare islets of Razanac Veli, Razanac Mali and Donji Skolj.

49.9 Sleep •


Rent a Tent, Ražanac x58 ( Zadar-Ražanac ). Fully equipped tents. The dimensions of the tents are 300X405 cm with an outside tent of 300X155 cm, height of 205 cm, in 100 % waterproof materials. Can be used by a maximum of 4 people. The bedroom is separated from other parts of the tent. It presents one extra tent which can be closed from all sides. There is a kitchen space and eating area. The floor of the tent is madeof wood. In front of the tent there is a space with roof, for a table and 4 chairs. 10-19€.

49.10 Connect

Razanac is located on the local road, branching off from ambulance: 65 11 11 emergency: 94 police: 92 firemen: the main road (M29). 93 croatian auto-club: 987 center for informations: 985 post (23248): 65 16 70

49.3 Get around

49.11 Go next

49.4 See On Sibenicka Glavica, south of the village, are the ruins of an Illyrian hill-fort. Medieval settlements emerged during the period of Turkish-Venetian wars (16th and 17th c.). The harbour features the remains of a fortification from the 16th century.

49.5 Do 49.6 Buy 49.7 Eat 49.8 Drink 152

Chapter 50

Rtina 50.10 Connect

Rtina is a town in the Dalmatia region of Croatia.

50.11 Go next

50.1 Understand This part of Dalmatia is well known for its strong wind that blows in the winter. That is why the climate is one of the healthiest in Europe (especially for the people with respiratory diseases). Around 500 people live in Rtina. During summer there is 5000 and more people arrived as tourists. Place is very quiet and calm so it is perfect for good and trouble free vacation. Local people are very polite and welcome to outsiders. Tourist business is growing each season which improves look of the place.

50.2 Get in 50.3 Get around 50.4 See 50.5 Do 50.6 Buy 50.7 Eat 50.8 Drink 50.9 Sleep •

Villa Saga, Rtina 183 (Zadar-Pag ), ☎ +38598272187. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 10AM. Private holiday house with 8 beds. €80. 153

Chapter 51

Šibenik 51.1.1 Tourist information •

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View over Cathedral of St. James and the bay of Šibenik

Šibenik is a city (pop. ~37,000) in Šibenik-Knin County, in northern Dalmatia, Croatia.

1 Turističko informativni centar (Tourist Information Centre), Obala palih omladinaca 3, ☎ +385 22 214 448. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Turistička zajednica grada Šibenika ( Šibenik Tourist Board ), Fausta Vrančića 18, ☎ +385 22 212 075, e-mail: [email protected]. (updated Sep 2016) Turistička zajednica Šibensko-Kninske Županije (Tourist board of Šibenik–Knin County), Fra Nikole Ružića bb, ☎ +385 22 219 072, e-mail: [email protected]. (updated Oct 2016)

51.2 Get in

51.1 Understand Šibenik is most famous for Saint James Cathedral, which is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. A trademark of the city is the traditional šibenik hat, coloured orange and black, also the city’s colours. 16th century polymath and bishop Faust Vrančić, known as one of the inventors of parachute and perhaps the first man who used it, was born here and lived here. Famous basketball player Dražen Petrović, and Maksim Mrvica, a piano player, were born here. Šibenik was mentioned for the first time under its present name in 1066 in a Charter of the Croatian King Petar Krešimir IV. For a period of time, it was a seat of the Croatian King. For that reason, Šibenik is also called “Krešimirov grad” (Krešimir’s city). It is the oldest native Croatian town on the eastern shores of the Adriatic sea. You can see the statue of King Petar Krešimir IV between the park and the beginning of the promenade along the sea. Šibenik was for almost 300 years under Venetian rule, and then in Austro-Hungary, Yugoslavia and finally, Croatia. It was a very important town in VenetianTurkish wars and it was a frontier of the western civilization an Christianity.

Šibenik’s harbour side

?'"ÙNIQ--maplink-00000002-QINU`"'? Map of Šibenik

51.2.1 By plane Airports of Split and Zadar are quite close to the city (approx. 1h by bus).

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155

51.4. SEE

For Split airport it would be more reasonable to get to Trogir straight from the airport (instead of Split proper), then take a bus from there.

51.2.2 By bus •

1 Autobusni kolodvor Šibenik (Bus station). 07:00-22:00. Šibenik is well connected by bus with Croatia, surrounding countries and Central Europe (Dortmund, Ljubljana...). Left luggage service is available. (updated Sep 2016)

51.2.3 By boat

In the city

1 Trajektno pristanište (Ferry quay). Local ferries 51.3.3 By car are operating from the port to Kaprije, Prvic Luka, Sepurine, Vodice, Zirje and Zlarin. (updated Sep If you come by car, there’s a large parking place on the very central square Poljana, as well as there is one with 2016) 700 spots when you enter the town northbound. For long distance destination, like Rijeka, Dubrovnik or Ancona and Bari, check ports of Split and Zadar. •

51.4 See

51.2.4 By train •

1 Kolodvor Šibenik ( Railway station ), Fra Jeronima Milete 24. Mo-Fr 07:00-10:50 13:10-20:20, Sa 06:20-10:50, Su 06:20-10:50 15:50-20:20. Šibenik is connected to the Croatian railway network by Šibenik-Perković line. FromPerkovićthere are some connections to Split and Zagreb. Unfortunately the trains are quite slow there and the current schedule renders it virtually useless for a traveler. (updated Sep 2016)

51.2.5 By car Take A1 highway Zagreb-Split and turn off at Šibenik junction.

51.3 Get around 51.3.1 On foot Everywhere in the city is within walking distance. From bus station to the old city centre it takes only five minutes to walk. You can get to all sights on foot, and the furthest are within half an hour walk.

51.3.2 By bus If you want to go to the outskirts of the city (for instance to the Dalmare shopping centre), you can take a public bus. Bus transport in Šibenik is operated by Autotransport Šibenik and 3 smaller private companies.

At the centre of the old town

Venetian rule left Šibenik with four beautiful fortresses: St. Michael, St. John, Šubićaevac and St. Nicholas. Old part of the town, full of churches, old noblemen palaces and typical Dalmatian stone houses centuries old is very interesting. Town walls are also well preserved. One of the most interesting sights is medieval monastery garden. •

1 Katedrala sv. Jakova ( Cathedral of St. James or Cathedral of St. Jacob ), Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. 9:30-18:30. This basilica is considered as one of the major attraction in the city. It is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Construction started in 1431, and it was not finished until 1536 due to Turkish wars. Several successive architects built it completely in stone in the 15th and 16th centuries, both in Gothic and in Renaissance style. The interlocking stone slabs of the Cathedral’s roof were damaged when the city was shelled by Serbian forces in 1991. The damage has since been repaired. It has a beautiful baptistery worth seeing it, and the curiosity is it has been built with stone only, without

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tury with an asymmetric facade with a clock. Now it houses the Muzej crkvene umjetnosti (Museum of Church Art). (updated Oct 2016) •

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Cathedral of St. James

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Crkva sv. Barbare

any kind of binder. Another one is 72 human heads carved in stone on the external part which belong to unknown individuals, passers-by, sailors, merchants and peasants who posed as the cathedral was being built. Statues of Adam and Eve are also curious; Adam is covering his breasts, and Eve is covering not her breasts, but her stomach. 15 kn. (updated Oct 2016) •

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1 Gradska vijećnica (Old city hall ). Formerly known as Plathei Communis , it was built from 15331536. (updated Sep 2016) 1 Crkva sv. Barbare ( Church of Saint Barbara ). A beautiful small church dating from the 15th cen-

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1 Biskupska palača (Bishops Palace). (1439-1441) (updated Sep 2016) 1 Kneževa palača ( Dukes Palace). (updated Sep 2016) 1 Četiri bunara (4 draw-wells), Palih omladinaca 2 (up the steps from theCathedral square for the square itself and down the steps enter the former reservoir ), ☎ +385 98 341 175. It is an underground complex of water reservoirs, built in the 15th century for city’s water supply. Now it’s a multimedia exhibition center Bunari - Tajne Šibenika (“Bunari - Secrets of Sibenik”). The reservoirs are now dry and decorated as a museum/gallery and a cafe. It has 7 sections: (Šibenik’s treasure, food and drink, shipwrecks around Šibenik, persons from the past etc.). Concerts, stand-up comedy shows etc. often take place at the cafe. Very interesting spot. May-Oct 15 Kn; Nov-Apr 10 Kn. 1 Crkva i smostan sv. Frane (Church and monastery of St. Francis), Trg Nikole Tomaszea 1 (at the eastern edge of the old town ). Dating from the 16th century (updated Oct 2016) 1 Perivoj Roberta Visianija ( Park of Roberto de Visiani ). A nicely decorated little park with fountains dedicated to Roberto de Visiani – botanist, poet and philosopher who was born in Šibenik (updated Oct 2016) 1 Srednjovjekovni vrt sv.Lovre (Medieval garden of the monastery St. Laurence), Sv. Lovre (take the Don Krste Stošića street, then 6th turn right ), ☎ +385 22 212 515, e-mail: [email protected]. 8-23h. Extremely rare medieval monastery garden, restaurated in 2007 byDragutin Kiš, who won a millenium Flora award in Japan in 2000. Won the first prize at school gardens contest in Croatia. It contains various plants, especially those used in pharmacy and as spices. It has a quiet cafe, where you can quietly enjoy the view to the Šibenik’s old part and the sea, the atmosphere and the odor. Only for guided groups 15 kn, check with Cromovens Tourist Agency. 1 Tvrđava sv. Mihovila ( St. Michael’s fortress). Ruins of the 13th century now converted into a summer stage. It’s an empty shell inside, but views onto surrounding city and the bay are quite promising. 20 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

157

51.7. EAT

51.5 Do •

Take a swim! Beaches around Šibenik (Solaris, Žaborić, Grebaštica, Brodarica, Jadrija, Srima...) are extremely clean and fun (although sea in Šibenik bay itself isn't very clean). You must try the beach game of picigin, an invention of nearby city of Split's youth. All you need is shallow, sandy or not so stony beach, small ball and company. The aim is to hold a ball as much as you can up in the air, and you're allowed to use all body parts. Typical hat

•

•

1 Walk or cycle along the Kanal sv. Ante. (updated Sep 2016) The annual Šibenik International Children’s Festival (Međunarodni Dječji Festival), founded in 1958, takes place every summer in the theater or the stage between the Cathedral and City hall, as well as on the streets and squares. It’s a great fun, tickets are bargain, and there are a lot of events for adults as well.

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In late summer traditional Dalmatian Chanson Evenings are held. It’s worth the visit, but tickets are expensive and there are few of them. Take a trip to Vodice (Hacienda) or Primošten (Aurora) night clubs. It takes around 15 minutes to Vodice and half an hour to Primošten by car. Fortress of St. Michael. The Fortress of St. Michael is located at a height of 70m above the sea behind the old city agglomeration. Great view of city of Sibenik, Sibenik Bay and channel.

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51.6 Buy •

Take a walk along the Kalelarga (officially King Tomislav’s street) and visit its shops, squares and cafes. Buy a CD with traditional Dalmatian klapa singing on it. Klapa is a choir which uses mostly just voice and a few instruments, and they are typical for Šibenik. Nearby islands Krapanj and Zlarin are famous for their sponge industry (Krapanj) and coral diving and coral cottage industry (Zlarin), which goes back to 17th century. Coral jewelery and sponge souvenirs are affordable and original. Traditional Šibenik’s orange and black cap is town’s most famous and most recognizable brand, but it can get expensive (more than 20 €), so just buy a mini replica. Olive oil and dry figs are also very qualitative and you can bring them home. There are also antiquities fairs around the town, so look for them. If you visit Šibenik in late September, you'll get inside Medieval festival, where you can buy almost everything linked to medieval. You can also visit the Dalmare shopping mall. It is located in the southern outskirts of Šibenik, along the road to Split. It includes many clothes shops of major European chains, a large Konzum supermarket and a 24-hour McDonalds restaurant.

51.7 Eat Kike Pizzeria in the ancient part of the city is worth a visit.

Old city hall

51.8 Drink

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At a local bar

51.9 Sleep Unfortunately, and surprisingly as well, private accommodation in Sibenik is not as popular as it is in the other cities of Croatia. Few are willing to open their houses to the travellers and no or only a few sobe (room) signs can be seen at the doors. •

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Eva’s home (Zadarska 37) however, which is located in the upper part of the old city, is an alternative with a clean room and good price. Ask assistance to locate. A hostel Indigo is in the old part of the city.

51.10 Go next •

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Krka National Park is perhaps somewhat lowlier than the famous Plitvice Lakes National Park, but still is well worth a visit. The park is full of breathtaking scenery of waterfalls, flora, fauna as well as historical and archaeological remains. Kornati National Park is famous for its numerous islands and its undersea.

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Telašćica Nature Park just next to Kornati

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Zadar

•

Split

Chapter 52

Zadar

Narodni trg (People´s Square)

Bells of Zadar Bell Tower

52.1 Understand In 2016 Zadar won a contest for the European Best Destination.

52.1.1 Tourist information St. Donat’s church

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1 Turistička zajednica Grada Zadara (Tourist In formation Centre), Mihovila Klaića 1. (updated Aug 2016)

52.2 Get in 52.2.1 By plane •

View of Zadar Town and Adratic Sea from Zadar Bell Tower

Zadar is a city in northern Dalmatia, Croatia. 159

1 Zračna luka Zadar (Zadar Airport IATA: ZAD ) (12 Km east of the centre ). The airport shares its airfield with military. It used to be a civic road crossing its taxi lanes, so the traffic was regulated by lifting gates, but it doesn't seem the case anymore. Nevertheless it’s an international airport with flights by Croatia Airlines, Eurowings, Ryanair, and few others; various charters in season. (updated Aug 2016)

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Ground transportation •

Airport shuttle. The bus runs to the city’s bus station and then continues up to the bus hub at the old town. 25 Kn. (updated Aug 2016)

Buses run to the Central bus station and Old town from Zadar airport terminal. These buses are clean, comfortable and efficient. Buses run in conjunction with arriving flights. Therefore they will run more frequently during weekdays than at weekends, as more flights are arriving at the airport. However, at weekends it is still possible to catch a bus. The airport bus costs 25 kuna. Jardolinja Ferry You can also rent a car at Zadar airport. There are multiple car rental companies. 1 Local ferries, Liburnska obala. Zadar is a hub For taxi or pre-booked transfers are also available. for local boats and hydrofoils in Northern Dalmatia. Services run to and from Olib, Mali Losinj, Ugljan, Dugi Otok, Premuda and others. Timetables and 52.2.2 By bus prices are available online from Jadrolinija. (updated Aug 2016) 1 Autobusni kolodvor Zadar (Bus station), ☎ +385 23 211555. 05:30-22:00. Frequent buses run to and from Zagreb (3h 30 min), Rijeka (change for Trieste in Italy), Pula, Sibenik, Split and on to Dubrovnik, 52.3 Get around some services to destination in Germany. In the season daily buses to Banja Luka in Bosnia and Herzegovina. (updated Aug 2016) •

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Left luggage. Storage is available at the station. HRK 3.00 per hour. (updated Aug 2016) About half the buses for Zagreb pass through thestunning Plitvice National Park.

52.2.3 By train •

1 Kolodvor Zadar (Railway station ), Ante Starčevića 3. Mo-Fr 07:10-14:40. A few slow trains a day run to Knin and connects with trains for Zagreb (5,5 hours or 8,5 with overnight trains) and Split (3.5 hr). A rowing boat ferry at the entrance of the harbour (updated Aug 2016)

Said that, virtually nobody uses this train to get to these cities. Train to Knin is just of one carriage with no A/C 52.3.1 On foot and can be quite uncomfortable, however the scenery is beautiful and will leave you in wonder at the numerous The centre is easy enough to get around on foot. To reach the bus and train stations or Youth Hostel you will probastations which appear to be in the middle of nowhere. bly need to catch one of the frequent local buses, which are the only form of public transportation.

52.2.4 By boat •

1 Long distance ferries, Istarska obala. Jadrolinja runs large ferries every few days up and down the coast between Dubrovnik and Rijeka, stopping off at ports including Zadar and islands on the way. They also run almost daily ferries in summer to and from Ancona, Italy. (updated Aug 2016)

52.3.2 By bus •

Liburnija. Provides local bus services in the city. Buses are relatively new and well maintained. Single ride ticket 10 Kn (valid 50 min.); Double ride: 16 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

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52.4. SEE

Virtually all the routes have a stop at the Autobusni kolodvor (Bus station). In the newer part of the city there is another popular bus stop: 1 Mala Pošta stop – at the a post office at the crossroads of Ul. Josipa Jurja Strossmayera and Ul. Stjepana Radića. Single tickets can be bought either at the driver or at Liburnija kiosk at a bus stop. Double ride tickets, sold individually or bound into a carnet of 10 (so for 20 rides) are available at newsstand ( Tisak ) kiosks. NB: Buses are usually scheduled from early morning (05:30 - 06:30) and finishing just before the midnight, so plan your trips accordingly.

52.3.3 By taxi

St. Mary’s Church

The main taxi ranks in Zadar are located at the following locations: •

•

•

Autobusni kolodvor (Bus station)

Ferry quay at the Liburnska obala in the old town (near the bus stop), tel. +385 (0)23 251 400 Obala kneza Branimira at the opposite end of the bridge across the Jazine bay

52.3.4 By boat •

1 Zadarski barkajoli (Rowing boat ferry ) (Liburn- Kopnena Vrata (Land Gate) ska obala 5 - Lukobran aka Điga (Breakwater) ), ☎ +385 95 802 6134. 06:30-23:00. A small rowing boat makes regular trips between the old town and the breakwater at the other side of the harbour. The boat is 10.5 meters long, 1.76 m wide, capacity: 10 passengers. These days it’s mostly a tourist attraction. 5 Kn. (updated Sep 2016)

52.4 See

Sea Organ

Walk around the atmospheric streets of the old town, located on thepeninsula. There are34 old churches situated on the peninsula, and all of them with a very rich history. The oldest is St. Simeon (Sv. Šime). •

Zadar University

1 Crkva svetog Donata (Church of Saint Donatus). The church is one of the best preserved preRomanesque buildings in the world. It is pretty difficultto miss, as it hasbecomethemost recognizable symbol of Zadar. The church is no longer in use for religious ceremonies, and today is a museum. It also

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•

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Pozdrav Suncu

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holds a series of classical music concerts every summer. (updated Jan 2016) •

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1 Katedrala sv. Stošije (Zadar Cathedral or Cathedral of St. Anastasia). In the cathedral there is an impressive organthat was nearly destroyed in thelast war. Climb up the bell tower for a nice view over the city. (updated Jan 2016) 1 St. Mary & St. Simeon. St. Mary also houses a museum of antique religious relics and artifacts. (updated Jan 2016)

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1 Muzej Iluzija (Museum of Illusions ), Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 2, ☎ +385 23 316 803, e-mail: [email protected]. A collection of interactive installations and optical illusions. 40-60 kn. (updated Aug 2016)

Relax in one of the cafes and enjoy the city, the sun, and the people. Swim, Take a dip in the beautiful clear waters. It’s quite common to see people sunbathing and swimming along virtually the entire coast of Zadar. The most popular beaches are: •

1 Forum Romana ( Roman Forum). Remains of The Roman Forum - One of the best preserves Roman Forums in existence. This is a common place for locals to stroll, sit down among the ruins and enjoy a nice summer day. free. (updated Jan 2016)

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1 Kopnena Vrata (Land Gate). Historic entrance gate to the city, built to a design by the Venetian architect Michele Sanmicheli in 1543. Free. (updated Apr 2017)

1 Pozdrav Suncu (Greeting to the Sun ). This monument of a 22 meter diameter circle made of 300 multi layered glass plate. It represents the sun. There are 8 similar proportionate (in size and distance) representing the 8 planets. The circles are illuminated during the night. free. (updated Jan 2016)

1 Muzej antičkog stakla (Museum of Ancient Glass), Poljana Zemaljskog Odbora 1, ☎ +385-23 36 38 33. Covers the history of glass, from early glass jewelry and decorative items, to Roman era amphorae and bottles, up to contemporary glass art. Live glass blowing demonstrations are also given before 16:00. 10-30 kn. (updated Aug 2016)

52.5 Do

1 Sveučilište u Zadru (University of Zadar ). The university in its current modern form was founded in 2002, but originally it was founded 1396, which makes it the oldest university in Croatia, and one of the oldest universities in Europe. (updated Jul 2015)

1 Morske orgulje (Sea Organ). This man-made organ works with the motion of the waves and 35 pipes to create a musical soundscape. A favorite for locals and tourists alike, and accompanied by a light display that creates visualisations of the sounds being produced by the organ. free. (updated Jul 2015)

1 Arheološki Muzej (Archaeological Museum), Trg Opatice Čike, 23000, ☎ +385 23 250 516. Houses artifacts that testify to Zadar’s long and rich history. (updated Apr 2017)

•

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Kolovare, Situated close to the city centre, a favorite for locals. Borik, A massive hotel complex hosting numerous activities such as parasailing, water slides and other activities. Vitrenjak, Located close to Zadar’s sailing club, Uskok. A beach frequented by mostly families. In the nearby sailing club you can find a lovely open terrace cafe offering refreshments and food.

Walk, Take a stroll along the paved seafront on a summer evening for one of the best sunsets in Europe and listen to the relaxing sounds of the rather original 'sea organ' set into the harbour wall. Sail, If you wish to spend your holidays on a yacht charter, Zadar has a lot to offer.The best season for sailing is early summer with good S/SE winds in May and June, while the winds during July and August are generally calmer. Summer temperatures are between 26 to 30°C in average and the sea temperature is about 25°C.

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Adventure Driven Vacations, Zadar Airport, ☎ +385912539025, e-mail: [email protected]. 08:0020:00. Provides skydiving, sea kayaking and rock climbing tours in the Zadar area. (updated Jan 2017)

52.8 Drink •

52.6 Buy Zadar has 2 major shopping areas: the old town with its numerous shops, and the Voštarnica commercial district. •

•

1 Petar Zoranic, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10. General purpose book store, a good place to find tourist guides. (updated Aug 2016) 1 University Book Store, Ul. Ruđera Boškovića 5, ☎ +385 23 200 555. Book store of the university, offering a decent selection of Croatian, English and international literature. Tourist guides for Croatia available for 100 kn. (updated Aug 2016)

52.7 Eat •

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1 2Ribara ( Dva Ribara ), Ul. Blaža Jurjeva 1, ☎ +385 23 213 445. 11:00-23:00. Small restaurant in the historic center of Zadar, 5 min. walk from the Roman Forum. Decent food for a fair price. (updated Aug 2016) 1 Hungry Eyes (Gladne Oči ), Sutomiska 3, ☎ +385 23 213 992, e-mail: [email protected]. 10:00-01:00. Specialized in grilled meat and fish. Large portions, fast service, competitive prices. Suitable for large groups and lunch or dinner with kids. Outside the old town, reachable by public transport (bus 8 Diklo - Kolodvor). (updated Aug 2016) 1 Mijo, Ul. Tina Ujevića 28, ☎ +385 23 332 728. Italian restaurant specialized in sea food, pizzas and pasta. Outside the old town, but close to a Borik. A romantic restaurant offering dining inside and outside, great for couples but not for families with kids. Large portions for fair prices. (updated Aug 2016) 1 Papica, Veslačka ul. 2, ☎ +385 23 312 957. Specializes in quality burgers served with fries, but with a Mediterraneanflavor. Quick service, no-nonsense. Suitable for families with kids. Easily reachable by public transport (bus 8 direction Diklo). (updated Aug 2016) 1 Kornat, Liburnska Obala 6, ☎ +385 23 254 501. Upscale Croatian Mediterranean cuisine, high prices. Making a reservation is necessary. Next to a busy road, so not recommendable if you're looking to dine outside.

•

1 Cocktail Bar Mango, Krešimirova Obala 12, ☎ +385 (0)91 734 0769, e-mail: [email protected]. Lounge bar with a view over the bay. Large selection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Comes to life in the early evening, only during the busy summer months. (updated Aug 2016) The Garden, ☎ +385 23 254509. Bedemi zadarskih pobuna, ]. A fancy open bar with a lovely view over the harbour, opened by UB40 drummer James Brown. The Garden also hosts an annual electronic music festival. The Arsenal, ☎ +385 23 253 820. Trg tri Bunara. A 17th century. Venetian Naval Warehouse, now a cool Restaurant-Bar-Club.

52.9 Sleep 52.9.1 Budget •

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Hotel Kolovare. The only hotel close to the city center. Youth Hostel, The Obala kneza Trpimira 78 ( 5 km from the city centre by the marina in Borik. Take buses 5 or 8 ), ☎ +385 23 331145. Friendly. Hotel Adriatic (On the beach Biograd 30 km south of Zadar ), ☎ +385 23 383556. 3 star designer hotel, great pool. Hostel Ljepotica, Obala kneza Branimira 10A (right across the foot bridge, close to the city center ), ☎ +385 23-224-840. friendly 1 Villa Nico, Krešimirova Obala 138, ☎ +385 23 337 540, e-mail: [email protected]. A small family run hotel and restaurant at the sea side, halfway between Borik and Diklo. Bus stop of line 8 is 50 m away from the hotel. Fair prices, friendly service. (updated Aug 2016)

52.9.2 Splurge •

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1 Falkensteiner Hotel & Spa, Falkensteiner Hotels & Residences Punta Skala, ☎ +385 23 500 901, email: [email protected]. Falkensteiner Hotel &Spa is a five star hotel, located north of Zadar in Punta Salka peninsula. (updated Jul 2015) 1 Hotel Niko, Obala kneza Domagoja 98, HR23000 Zadar, ☎ +385 23 337 880, e-mail: [email protected] . Hotel Niko is located 3.5

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km from Zadar city centre. It offers a panoramic view of the old town of Zadar. It has 15 stylish and comfortable rooms. (updated Jul 2015) •

1 Hotel Bastion, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, HR-23000 Zadar, ☎ +385 23 49 49 50, e-mail: [email protected]. Hotel Bastion is a boutique hotel, built on the remains of a medieval fortress. Hotel Bastion has 28 rooms, including 5 suites. (updated Jul 2015)

52.10 Connect •

Free Wifi. Is deployed at the centre of the city. SSID: Grad_Zadar_Free (updated Sep 2016)

52.11 Go next •

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•

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Dugi Otok – for its beautiful landscape, salt lake and donkeys at the Telašćica Nature Park Šibenik for the World Heritage listed Cathedral of St. Jacob Krka National Park where you can explore the breathtaking scenery and swim close to the waterfalls Kornati National Park – a national park, numbering more than 80 islands where you can find peace and quiet Hike and climb in the Paklenica National Park Visit the stunning waterfalls and lakes of the Plitvice National Park

Chapter 53

Split-Dalmatia Split-Dalmatia is the county of central Dalmatia in Croatia. It consists of a narrowstrip along the coast of the Adriatic Sea, an elevated hinterland, and islands. There are several rivieras along the coast. The Makarska Riviera, with a sunny climate and some sandy beaches, in addition to the pebble beaches that are usual in Croatia, is a popular destination. It is 60 km long, stretching from Brela in the north-west to Gradac in the south-east. The Biokovo mountain range towers above the coast.

Split – historic city with famous centre and Roman palace; county seat

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Omiš – old town

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Ruskamen – excursion destination

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Trogir – historic town and harbour

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Vinisce – small town

Baska Voda

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Bratuš

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Brela

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Drvenik

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Promajna

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Gradac

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Vis


53.5 Get around

53.8 Eat 53.9 Drink 53.10 Stay safe 53.11 Go next

53.2 Islands •

Solta

53.7 Do

Makarska – the main beach resort town on the Makarska Riviera

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•

53.6 See

Makarska Riviera •

Hvar – thelongest (approx. 68 Km)island in Croatia

Split Airport has year-round flights from Cologne/Bonn, Frankfurt, London, Munich, Stuttgart and Zagreb and seasonal flights from many more European cities.

53.1 Cities •

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Brac – the largest island in Dalmatia, with numerous settlements 165

Chapter 54

Baska Voda 54.7 Eat 54.8 Drink 54.9 Go next

View of Baska Voda

Baska Voda is in Croatia, between Split and Makarska.

54.1 Get in 54.2 Get around 54.3 See •

Museums

•

Churches

54.4 Sleep •

Hotel Croatia, Iza Palaca bb, ☎ +385 21 695 900, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: from 4PM, check-out: 10AM. In the centre in front of the small yachting port. 18 rooms, bed & breakfast service. 200 meters from the beach. From €28.

54.5 Do 54.6 Buy 166

Chapter 55

Bratuš Bratus is a village in Split-Dalmatia (Central Dalmatia), Croatia, close to the city of Makarska. It’s a small fishing andtourist village with less than 50 inhabitantsoutside the holiday season. Close to the main tourist hub Makarska, Bratus has managed to preserve its original atmosphere of a small fishing community.

But Makarska is accessible within a 1h walk along the shore, too. Also, after a 10min walk north you reach Promajna, a tourist and fishing village slightly larger than Bratus with a market, grocery shops and a couple of restaurants.

55.3 Do Bratus has a small, charming beach promenade with a small shop, a cafe and a restaurant. Swimming is possible there and along the path towards Makarska. In Makarska you can visit the nice old town and harbor. Ferries leave for Brac and Hvar. The Biokovo mountain range boasts various challenging hikes and a scenic drive all the way to the top of Sveti Jure, highest peak (1700m).

Bratus, Croatia

55.4 Eat

Bratus is a perfect place for families and people looking for a small, calm village at the Croatian coast off the main tourist places. It is also a great base for active holidays in the Biokovo mountains.

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Konoba Bratuš. Excellent fish-restaurant, which offers several first- and extra-class fish-dishes.

55.5 Drink

55.1 Get in

There is a small beach bar “Sahara” at the south end of the Get by ferry, plane, train or car to Split, 50km north of promenade. For real nightlife you have to go to Makarska Bratus. Drive along the coastal highway from Split to Makarska. Get off the main road at Kravica, 5km before Makarska. Bratus lies below Kravica at the waterfront. There regular regional bus connections from Split to 55.6 Sleep Makarska. Get off at Kravica and walk down to Bratus in 10 min. There is no hotel in Bratus. Accommodation is available in private holiday apartments. Especially off season you can ask the locals about space available, but during the high season it is good to book ahead. 55.2 Get around Best way to get around is by car. Bus lines connect with Makarska and Split. 167

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Akrap Family (de/en). Offers private accommodations.

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CHAPTER 55. BRATUŠ

Apartmani Milka Beroš, Bratuš 31, ☎ +385 21 621137, e-mail: [email protected]. private accommodation Apartment Buntic.

Chapter 56

Drvenik Drvenik is situated between Split to Dubrovnik (Dalmatia), 24 km south-east from Makarska. Drvenik lays in two bays (Gornja vala and Donja vala).

56.1 Get in •

With the ferry from Sućuraj, Hvar-island .

56.2 Get around 56.3 See 56.4 Do 56.5 Buy 56.6 Eat 56.7 Drink 56.8 Sleep •

Apartmani Gabric, Živogošće – Blato 34.

56.9 Go next

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Chapter 57

Hvar fishing harbor. Marble streets reveal one of the largest squares in Dalmatia, Trg Sveti Stjepana as well as the prized Cathedral of St. Stjepan and the Renaissance theatre. Hvar Town may be the most stunning town on the island but Stari Grad, the oldest city in Croatia, and Jelsa, as well as a smattering of small villages, dotting the coast or nestled in the lush interior are well worth a visit.

57.1 Understand Fortress

Hvar is an island off the coast of Croatia.

The town of Hvar

Island Hvar and especially 1 Hvar town and the neighboring historical town of 1 Stari Grad are among the most popular destinations in the Adriatic.

The main square of Hvar

Theareaof Starogradskopolje (Stari Grad Plain)isandisGently rolling hills painted a brilliant purple by the fer- tinctive example of agricultural development by the antile flowers, lush vineyards nestling at the foot of ragged cient Greek colonists who settled on the island in the 4th mountains, gorgeous beaches with tiny inlets and se- century BC. For this reason this area is included in the cluded coves, luscious restaurants, boutiques, and a vi- World Heritage List brant nightlife amidst the medieval streets of Hvar Town During the season (May to September) it can be very are just a few of the treats to enjoy on this dream of an busy, especially during August when large numbers of island. Italians visit. Hvar was relatively cheap, without an extenImposing fortifications hover above the fluid blend of grey stone and orange cascading roofs. The remains of walls built by a long list of invaders descend towards the wide promenade edging the brilliant blue sea and the quaint

sive tourist infrastructure, and it attracted a lot of young people. However, this is changing as large five star hotels are being built and the standard of living in Croatia is rising.

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Another view of the town of Hvar and the harbour

57.3 Get around Buses meet the car ferries at Stari Grad and run to various destinations such as Hvar town. Don't take taxis from the ferry port, they're a rip-off. You can easily rent a car for about 350 kuna a day if you wish to explore other parts of the island. The rental agenNarrow streets in Stari Grad cies have firm policy of a minimum of one day rental (no hourly rentals). You can also rent a scooter or moped for about 250 kuna a day. There are hourly rates for the 57.2 Get in mopeds and scooters. The roads on hvar can be steep and windy and there are no guard rails, so be careful esBy either car ferry (approx. 2h), arriving near Stari pecially if riding a rented moped which is old and has Grad or fast ferry (a hydrofoil) (approx 1h) to Hvar already done tens of thousands miles. City from Split, services operated by Jadrolinija. Keep in mind that there are only 2 petrol stations on the Buses operate to bring people to and from the ferry island: in the town of Hvar and near Jelsa. From Securaj through the island (12 kn to Starigrad, 25 kn to Hvar to the nearest petrol station on the island is approx 50 km. City (April 2009)). Note that as buses fill, latecoming passengers are often required to stand in the There is a convenient water taxi that will take you directly from Stari Grad harbour to the ferry for 15 Kuna. aisles during the entire bus journey. •

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Jadrolinija also brings you from Hvar town to Vela Luka (Korčula) and to the island Lastovo, and from Sućuraj in the east of Hvar to Drvenik (mainland). Blueline operates fast ferries from Hvar town to Split. The car ferries run most regularly (approximately three per day and more during the high season (May to September) and call at Stari Grad. The fast ferries run less frequently but also operate to and from Hvar town. There are also ferries to other destinations, most notably Italy.

57.4 See 57.4.1 History

TheTown Square in Hvar is among themost beautiful and the largest in Croatia. The square measures 4500 square meters, and the town has developed around this square, starting north of the square in the 13th century and then circling to the south of the square in the 15th century. There is also a fortress at the top of the hill with walls that encompass parts of the city. It’s an easy walk, al Dalmatia-express is providing 24h taxi boat ser- though uphill, to the fortress...it’s worth the trek however vice to the island, either from the city of Split or because of the wonderful views you have of the harbor from the airport and vice versa. Service is available and surrounding areas. Don't forget to bring your camalso in heavy seas and during rain. ☎ ++385 (0)99 eras. There is a small eatery in the middle of the fortress 20 099 20 where you can purchase drinks and snacks.

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57.4.4 Hikes and walks Take a water taxi to the nearby Pakleni archipelago, where secluded strands of white sand, hiking trails and pine groves await. Or hike for 2 hours along the Hvar’s southern cliffs from Dubovica to the winery of Zlatan Otok for a late lunch, a swim and a boat ride return to Hvar Town.

57.4.5 Scenery and nature The fortress

One visitor describes Hvar as “beautiful, crystal-clear blue sea, big green hills, clean air and lots of old stone.” At sundown a stroll up old lanes from the square in Hvar Town leads up to another lane which, high above the others is extremely attractive and shouldn’t be missed.

57.4.6 Religion and religious sites The Bishop’s Treasury, adjacent to the cathedral, contains silver vessels, embroidered Mass robes, numerous Madonnas, icons dating from the 13th century, and an elaborately carved sarcophagus.

57.5 Do Vrboska, a settlement on the north coast of the island

57.4.2 Architecture The Cathedral of St. Stephen dominates one end of the Town Square, and was built during the 16th and 17th centuries. The bell tower of this cathedral is four-stories high, with each level more elaborately decorated than the last. The cathedral was built over a previously existing cathedral that was destroyed by the Turks. Parts of this older cathedral can be seen inside the church, but most of the interior was rebuilt.

57.4.3 The arts Unique ceramics decorated with spiral ornaments in red, yellow, brown, and white were found at a Neolithic archeological site, Grapčeva špilja, near Hvar Town. Since such ornaments and engraving methods have only been found on the island of Hvar, archeologists have named this kind of Neolithic art “hvarska kultura” (Hvar’s Culture). The island of Hvar also has the tradition of making lace, but from the threads of agava leaves. Nuns from the Benedictine monastery in Hvar are masters of this unique craft.

Rent a boat (5 horse power) for about 350 kuna a day and explore the Pakleni Islands on your own. You can rent boats right in the main square in Hvar town. The islands are very close and make for an amazing adventure. Take a picinic or a bottle of wine. The boat can be anchored anywhere around the islands or tied to the rocks. Rent a scooter for 250 kuna a day and go around the island. There is lots to see and many interesting stopping points. There are also frequent water taxi that go the Pakleni Islands that run every half hour or so. Climb up to the Španjola Fortress. Enjoy the magnificent view of Hvar town and the Pakleni Islands, and pick up Italian radio on your mobile phone or main local Megamix Radio Hvar radio station . Go dancing at Carpe Diem. This is not to be missed. The djs are usually on the international circuit and the energy is high. •

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HVAR Adventure, Obala bb ( behind the Theatre/Arsenal building on the main Square ), ☎ +385 91 1543072. Offers sailing, sea kayaking, hiking, rock climbing, cycling. (PaintAdventure park Hvar Jelsa ball Hvar Jelsa), Jelsa Hvar (Near Hotel Fontana Jelsa), ☎ +385 98 1723932, e-mail: [email protected] . Great

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57.8. DRINK

things to do for families, stag party, kids, groups of friends and more.Offers Paintball,splatmaster,cageball,beach volleyball, badminton,human table football, archery, boccie,giant boxing (updated Feb 2016)

57.6 Buy

Town

locals. The eating area is outdoors under a lovely vine roof, and if you are lucky you may be offered a measure of the home brewed fig brandy. Be careful, it’s extremely strong but the locals recommend one a day to keep you healthy. The delicious national dish of Croatia is available, rabbit in fig sauce, and the rabbit and potato with peanut sauceis also highly recommended.

Lavender fields on Hvar

Hvar is known for its lavender, you can see it blooming in the summer over large areas. Don't forget to purchase bunches of lavender or lavender oils in beautifully painted glass bottles the lingering fragrances will remind you of the lovely time you spent on the island of Hvar. •

Made in Hvar, Pjaca (at the main square ), ☎ +385 21 718 438. 9-24. contemporary art and craft gallery presenting local art as well as artist in residence concept. Moderate prices and high aesthetic standards, unique and interested. Also, open all year.

57.7 Eat The local grilled squid with olive oil is wonderful, as is the cucumber salad. •

57.7.2 Pakleni Islands •

57.8 Drink •

Guesthouse Novak, Jurja Novaka 9.

57.7.1 Hvar Town •

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Restoran Antonio, Burak 3, Zdrilca (island of Zdrilca, rent a boat in Hvar town to get here), ☎ +385 21741485, e-mail: [email protected]. Great seafood and a good view over the bay 100 Kn. The Golden Shell ( With the port behind you and the main square in front of you, head left past the church and the restaurant is a small doorway down an alley on the right. ). Just off the main square near the main arrival port of Hvar is the Golden Shell, a small restaurant recommended as the best by the

Tonci, Sveti Klement, Vlaka, ☎ +385 21 742480, email: [email protected]. Beautiful little restaurant in a garden of fig and mandarin trees. They make their own wine from the vineyards next to the restaurants, the fish they catch in the nearby water. If you order a desert of fresh figs, they will pluck them from the trees around you HRK 100.

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Carpe Diem, At the end of the riva ( At the end of the riva on the right side ). It’s all big cushions, sofas, hammocks and mood lighting. Drinks leave something to be desired. It’s a real shame, because it’s the perfect spot to drink cocktails, but they make them with flavoured syrups instead of fresh fruit, and they all taste like bubble-gum. Prsuta Tri (on the narrow street just behind the main square ), ☎ +385 98 9696193, e-mail: [email protected]. Good vine bar, has cheese, olive, and prosciutto Teraca, Placa (On the long terrace above the main square ). Friendly small bar with an amazing view over the square and harbour 25 kuna beers, drinks for 18 kuna.

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57.9 Sleep

e-mail: [email protected]. Check-out: 14. Very clean and nice apartments with bathrooms and balconies. The top floor balcony has an amazing view over Hvar and the Pakleni Islands. €30.

At every ferry arrival, a bunch of people offering private accommodation will show up. •

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Apartmani Grgičević ([email protected]), Vitarnja, Jelsa, ☎ +385 977 942 942. Check-in: 14PM, check-out: 10AM. Welcoming house in Jelsa, 30m from the sea, low prices. 5 apartments (2+1, 4+2, 4+3 persons), ground or first floor. Nice mediterranean garden, balcony or terrace for guests, WiFi, grill, pets welcome. from 12€. Anna, Buzolic Tonci & Anna Glavica bb, ☎ +385 917303517, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-out: 10AM. Friendly and clean apartment just up the steps from the main square. 200 Kuna per person.

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Apartments and Pension, ☎ +385 21 773 250, e-mail: [email protected]. Two aircon double room apartments, one air-con studioapartment, and two rooms. 35€ (studio apartment). Apartments Bibić, ☎ +385 21 741 683, e-mail: [email protected]. Ten minutes walk from center of town and 20 meters from the sea. Apartments Komazin, ☎ +385 91 601 9712, email: [email protected]. Nice seaview apartments for 2, 3, 4 and 5 persons.

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APRTMENTS Hackl, ☎ +385 21 741514, e-mail: [email protected]. Nice quiet place. 1 Luka’s Lodge (call Luka for a pickup ), ☎ +385 917 347 230. Check-out: 1100. Nice location away from the noise, but within easy walking distance of beaches, restaurants, main promenade. 120 kuna per night. VilaJulie (Villa JulieVipApartment ), Bukainka bb, ☎ +385 21 717916, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 10AM. Nice villa with stunning view, swimming pool and air conditioning. 1 Villa Pepi ( Bodlovic ), Ivana Vucetica 16 (South along coast line), ☎ +385 21 741 183. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Apartments for 2 to 4 persons, direct sea view, 20 m from sea. 20-35 e. Apartments Blaskovic (in the vicinity of the beach), ☎ +38598265434. Nice view. Has a seawater pool and fitness room.

57.10 Go next

Aparthotel Pharia, ☎ +385 21 735 393, e-mail: [email protected]. Guesthouse Huljic, Jelsa bb, ☎ +385 91 1543072, e-mail: [email protected]. Great location in very centre of Jelsa on Hvar island. Nice clean rooms with private bathrooms. Kuca Sofia, ☎ +385911181274. Dates back more than 400 years and is traditionally constructed from local stone. It is a spacious two floor apartment in quiet surroundings, located in the historic centre of Harbour in Stari Grad Hvar Town. Apartment Modric ( Stone house Modric ), Donja banda b.b. (Sucuraj ), ☎ +385 98 921 04 32, e-mail: [email protected] . Check-in: 2PM, check-out: 10AM. Accommodation for 4-5 persons in old stone completely renovated house, 20m from sea. The available apartment takes the first floor and the attic; 70m2 large. €60-90/day per apartment. Apartments Curin, Antica Ćurin, Sv. Katarina bb, Hvar Town directions=, ☎ +385 21 741-676,

The beautiful, unspoilt and popular naturist islands of Jerolim and Stipanska are accessible by taxi-boat from Hvar town square. As of August 2010, the main beaches of the island are used predominantly by clothed bathers (the majority of island visitors), while the small rocky coves are used by a mix of clothed and naturist bathers.

Chapter 58

Makarska Makarska is the main beach resort town along the 58.4 See Makarska Riviera in Croatia, south of Split. Behind the city the impressive Biokovo mountain range rises up to You can take a scenic walk around the peninsula, the ma1,700 m (5,575 ft) within a few kilometres from the sea. rina, and the main square. The peninsula area in particular is scenic, relaxing, and some parts are not too crowded. Be warned that nude sunbathers like to relax on the southern side of the peninsula. 58.1 Understand Makarska is on the picturesque Croatian coast. It is recommendedto visit from April until October. For younger people July and August. If you want take a rest with no crowd on the beach then September is a good time. Makarska is a good place to stay rather than visiting on a day trip.

58.5 Do •

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Regular regional bus service connects Makarska to Split, Dubrovnik, and other cities in the broader region. In the season (June-August) there is a direct night connection to Banja Luka and Gradiska in the north of Bosnia.

58.2.2 By ferry •

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There is a ferry to Sumartin on Brac-island; travelling time is around 30 min.

58.3 Get around 58.3.1 By taxi In Makarska there is no single large taxi company, but many small operators provide a service with one or two cars. The taxi usually comes within 10 to 15 min from the call. 175

Parasailing Rafting and kayaking. About a half-hour drive from Makarska, you can go rafting or kayaking along the Cetina River. The river is generally calm, although there are a few fast places, and one section is particularly dangerous. There is a tour agency that offers guided trips down the river. If you decide to go, look for the cave that was used by Marshal Tito’s Partisans to hide from the Nazis during World War II. Trekking. The mountains directly behind the city have decent hiking trails. The area is scenic and not too crowded, and you can get a good view of Makarska if you hike high enough. Be sure to stay on the trails and be aware that there is a species of poisonous snake that lives in the area. Nature Park Biokovo. The mountain that rises right out of the sea, behind Makarska, with its peaks and lookout points that afford unforgettable panoramic views onto the Makarska Riviera and the area around Biokovo. Biokovo is unique not only for its position, but also for its geomorphology and its biological diversity, which are the main reasons for Mt Biokovo having been proclaimed a nature park in 1981. You can walk on foot into the mountains behind Makarska, however if you want to reach the best mountainous areas you will need to drive to the official park itself. There are excellent hiking opportunities in the park, although sometimes the fog makes it difficult to have a good view of the surroundings.

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Kotišina Botanical Garden, a part of the Nature 58.8 Drink park Biokovo that covers an area of 16.5 ha over the village of Kotišina. According to the intentions of There are bars and cafes along the main strip of the beach. its founder, Fra Jure Radić, the Biokovo vegetation, Most of the best dance clubs are concentrated around the preserved in its original state, enables visitors to get marina. to know the unique wild plant life of the area. During the high tourist season (July to September), the Grotta and the Deep are two popular dance bars that have been built into a natural cave along the sea.

58.6 Buy

At the southern end of the beach (near the peninsula), there is an outdoor market area. There you can buy souvenirs, beach gear, and food. In this area are other simple but fun attractions such as trampolines to jump on.

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There are also several well-stocked supermarkets in town, including a branch of the German discounter Lidl.

Grotta. Closed during the off-season. Bar and dance club in a sea-side grotto. Deep. Closed during the off-season. Bar and dance club in a sea-side grotto.

58.9 Sleep 58.7 Eat There are many restaurants along the beach and in the main square area. •

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Citrus.

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58.9.1 Budget

58.9.2 Mid-range

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Kalelarga.

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Mondo. Grilled meats. •

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Osejava. For fish. Roma, Corner of Meštroviča and Molizanskih Hrvata, ☎ +385 21 690900. Good if you're tired of the atmosphere along the beach and in the main square. Relaxed but still classy enough for a decent dinner or a date.

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Riva. Good for fish.

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Susvid. Meat plates.

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Veza, ☎ +385 989895758. Traditional Croatian peka, phone orders. •

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Bistro Herc.

Hostel Makarska, Prvosvibanjska 15 (city center ), ☎ +385 95 9077176. Check-in: noon, check-out: 10AM. First backpackers’ hostel in Makarska. It is in a safe, clean and quiet neighborhood. Nice and peaceful, with friendly atmosphere. It is run by a traveller who can give you all info you need about Croatia. 100kn.

Villa Buljubasic, Put Pozara 11b, 21300 Makarska, ☎ +385 95 80 80 364, e-mail: [email protected] . Ten suites, all equipped with air conditioning, TV/satellite, WiFi, bathroom, fridge, balcony and grill area, 350 m from beach, with parking. €40-80. Apartments Gabric, Živogošće – Blato 34 HR-21 329 Igrane Hrvatska, ☎ +385 98 257 853, +385 21 628 741, e-mail: [email protected]. Two 6065 m² apartments, A/C, 2 double bedrooms (double beds), 4+2, living room with sofa bed/couch, bathroom (shower+toilet) 50 m from beach, satellite TV, kitchen, refrigerator, dining area, cooker-oven (electric), with parking. €40-80. Apartments Podgora, Ivana Meštrovića 13, ☎ +385 21625417, e-mail: [email protected]. Two 75 m² 2 bedroom-double beds, 3 WC, apartments near the sea. Satellite TV, A/C, heating, grill, kitchen, parking, phone, towels and bed-sheets provided balconies, sea views. Vila Ventus, Molizanskih Hrvata 18A, ☎ +385 91 5665374, e-mail: [email protected]. 2 rooms

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with use of kitchen, 2 apartments with own kitchen, 58.12 Go next 2 double rooms, all with A/C, only 5 min walk from the beach. €25-90. The bus station is on Starčevića street near the intersection with Zvonimira street. It can connect you to many Villa Kapulica, Šetalište Franje Tuđmana 13a (next nearby cities. to the beach on the promenade ), ☎ +385 21 695080. Five apartments and one room with balconies Dubrovnik (160 km) and terrace overlooking the beach, which is only 5 Split (60 km) m away €40-85. Island Brac (1 hr by boat) Villa Jarak, Kralja Krešimira 108 ( Between Hotel Hvar (1 hr by boat) Dalmacija and Hotel Biokovka ), ☎ +385 21 615083, e-mail: [email protected]. Apartments Biokovo mountain (1.30 hr) and rooms with balconies close to the beach; all NP Krka (2 hr) rooms with AC, bathroom, satellite TV, free WiFi, and kitchen. €40-50. Nereva river (1 hr) •

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58.9.3 Splurge

58.10 Stay safe On the beach in Makarska, there are white beach chairs stacked along thebeach. Although there is no sign to indicate that there is a charge to use these beach chairs, occasionally a money collector will come to demand that you pay for using the chair. However, the money collectors are vague about what you owe and how long you're paying for. They may also swindle you because they don't give receipts, so if another money collector comes along, you can't prove that you paid. If you refuse to pay the collector, he may threaten to call the police, but they don't seem to actually do so. Just tell in English that you thought the chairs belong to the hotel and that you thought they are included in hotel price.

58.11 Connect Phone The city area code is 021 (Croatia area codes) Internet There are several internet cafes in town. They're very close to the main town square and are within a 45-second walk of each other. All of them charge 24 kuna/hr. Matrix seems to be more willing to sometimes spontaneously charge you less than what you owe. •

Internet Club Setup 20 m from main square.

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Internet Club Flex Directly on Kalelarga Street

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Matrix On a small street off of Kalelarga. Look for a sign saying internet .

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Brela B.Voda Tucepi Podgora Igrane Mala Duba Zaostrog Drvenik Gradac

Chapter 59

Maslinica Maslinica village situated in the bay west coast of the island of Solta. It’s characterized by beautiful scenery, makingit thepicturesque cove andpinewood in thesouthern side and the immediate surroundings with deep, wellprotected cove Šešulom and archipelago of seven islands.

59.3 Get around

The largest among them was raised in a V-VI centuries old Christian church with a monastery, of which up to now of remains. The natural meaning of Maslinica complete historical landscape architectural and environmental values of baroque castle and picturesque vernacular houses.

59.5 Do

Maslinica was made 1703rd When an aristocratic family Marchi asked from a Venetian governor approval for a new settlement and build a castle with towers for defense of frequent pirate attacks. The castle is now converted into an attractive and well-known restaurant “Conte Alberti”.

59.4 See

59.6 Buy 59.7 Eat 59.8 Drink 59.9 Sleep

Today Maslinica very attractive for tourists who want complete peace during day and night.

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Castle Martinis Marchi. Now a luxury hotel with marina for about 60 boats


Castle Martinis Marchi

59.1 Understand 59.2 Get in Ferries and boats line do not come here, so it is connected with Split through Rogač. 178

Chapter 60

Omiš Omiš is an old city located on the Adriatic Coast in Dalmatia, Croatia.

60.3 See

60.1 Get in

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Visit the historic churches of Omiš

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Fortresses Mirabella and Fortica

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Beautiful city beach (Velika Plaza)

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The city museum and harbour

60.1.1 By plane Take a flight to Split Airport and then get a bus to Omiš.

60.4 Do

60.1.2 By bus

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You can use services from frequent buses that come in and go from Split, Makarska, Sibenik, Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Mostar. Local bus line 60 departs from Sukoišanska bus terminal in Split every 30 minutes. A one-way ticket to Omiš costs 20 kuna (available in bus), while a round-trip ticket costs 31 kuna and can be bought only at kiosks.

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Take a trip up to the canyon of Cetina

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There are local boats that run several times a day from Islands of Brac, Hvar, Korčula and Vis. Take them to Split and then use the bus or taxi service to get to Omiš.

Participate in summertime activities the Fishing Nights, Crazy Dives and Pirates Nights

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There is a ferry service from Ancona, Italy. Take a ferry to the Port of Split and then use the bus to get to Omiš.

Listen to the Festival of Dalmatian Klapas

Go and visit the city of Makarska, Split, Solin and Trogir and enjoy the beauty of old architecture . Visit surrounding places (Nemira, Stanici, Lokva, Duce, Dugi Rat)

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60.5 Buy

60.2 Get around

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You can get around the city by car, local taxi and bus service, or tourist trolley. You can also rent a bike or moped from tourist agencies. However most people find it sufficiently comfortable to get around on foot, because Omiš is relatively small city. 179

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Traditional folklore clothes Omiš post cards

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Try Dalmatinski Prsut-Dalmatian smoked ham (ham smoked and dry on specific way) Fritule and Krostule (home made cookies) Jela ispod peke (meals prepared in the traditional way at the local restaurants) Local sea-food specialties Restaurant “Puljiz” old town: fresh fish, lobsters, steaks, not expensive, long tradition, terrace, always fresh food.

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Rakija: hard alcohol made either from grapes or plums Prosek: sweet liquor

60.8 Sleep •

There are apartments for rent located all over the city that are relatively inexpensive.

60.9 Go next •

Ruskamen

Chapter 61

Promajna Promajna is a village on the Makarska Riviera in SplitDalmatia, Croatia. It lies along a beautiful beach; the settlement provides very good opportunities for peaceful vacations and pleasant walks. The coastal promenade leads to the nearby Baska Voda.

61.7 Eat 61.8 Drink 61.9 Sleep

61.1 Understand

61.10 Connect

The name of the place was first used in 1674. A large number of archeological finds indicate human presence in these parts since 2nd century BC, although no remains of a settlement have been found.

61.11 Go next

Promajna is located 4 km south from Baska Voda and 6 km northwest of Makarska. A larger part of the settlement lies below the slopes of the Biokovo mountain, along the old coastal road. In recent times, due to the development of tourism, the village started to expand toward the coast. Present inhabitants of Promajna, about 230 of them, are descendants of families which moved near the sea from villages Bast and Podgora. Today the inhabitants of Promajna are mostly engaged in agriculture, fishing and tourism.

61.2 Get in 61.3 Get around 61.4 See 61.5 Do Entertainment programs are organized during the tourist season.

61.6 Buy 181

Chapter 62

Solta Solta is an island in the Split-Dalmatia county of Croatia, just to the west of the much larger island of Brac. Both are near the city of Split on the mainland.

62.1 Understand

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Sv. Gospa Lurdska u Grohotama

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Sv. Mihovil u Grohotama

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Sv. Martin u D. Selu

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Sv. Jelena u D. Selu

Sv. Gospe od Kadalora Šolta belongs to the middle Dalmatian islands. It lies in the central part of the Adriatic Sea, near its eastern coast. Sv. Tereze u Rogaču In the northwest Šolta is 360km away from the coast of Marunska lagoon (the most drawn in part of theAdriatic), Sv. Nikole u Maslinici while from the Strait of Otranto (the border between the Adriatic and the Mediterranean Sea) in the southeast it is 390 km. Šolta is 185km from the Italian coast and Gradac Village 10.7km from the Croatian mainland (Uranjica). It is 15 - prehistoric hill-fort km (9 nautical miles) from Split. •

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Šolta is 19 km long (from the promontory Livka in the east of the island opened on Brač to the promontory Mirine west of Donje Selo Obinu‘ki bok in the west). The largest width is from the peninsula Rata in the eastern part of Nečujam to the remains of villae rusticae peninsula in the western part of the cove of Senj and it is 4.9 km. The island’s coastline is 73.1 km long. Beside remains of the walls from antiquity near Donje Selo the main island, Šolta also consists of 7 islets outside the locality “Pod Mihovil” west port of Maslinica. •

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Grohote Village

62.2 Get in

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62.4 See

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Sv. Nikole u Stomorskoj

a part of an ancient sarcophagus in the parish house

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remains of an old Christian basilica

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baptismal font of a basilica and other remains

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chapel in the wall

62.4.1 Churches •

covers of ancient sarcophagi in front of the parish church

Bogorodice u Nečujmu Rogač Village

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Sv. Ivan u G. Selu

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Banje - capital from the late antiquity period remains of villae rusticae

62.11. GO NEXT

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ancient grawe ruins of sv. Petra memorial house Marka Marulića

Stipanska Village •

remains of an old Christian basilica

Gornje Selo Village •

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remains of a building from the late antiquity period cover of an ancient sarcophagus locality “Stomorija”

Sv. Jele •

old Christian sarcophagus

Maslinica Villare •

the castle of the Marchi family from 1706. godine http://www.martinis-marchi.com

62.5 Do 62.6 Buy 62.7 Eat 62.8 Drink 62.9 Sleep The tourist community every summer season organises a contest for the best decorated and arranged apartment, house lot and a village. The main purpose of this is to stimulate and encourage competition between the owners of apartments and houses but also of the villagers so that the whole island of Šolta can greet its guests as graciously as possible. Every year as a prize the best get diplomas so if you see such a diploma in the house you’re staying in be sure that the owner did his best to welcome you!


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Chapter 63

Split Split is a city in Central Dalmatia, Croatia, and the seat January or early February. If you find yourself in Split of the Split-Dalmatia county. The city was originally on a day with significant snowfall, expect serious traffic built around the Diocletian palace (a palace/fort built for disruption. the retired Roman emperor Diocletian) where the locals sought refuge centuries ago. Wandering the historic centre of Split you can still clearly see the Roman walls, squares, and temples.

63.1 Understand

Split, view from the hill Marjan

Because of its ideal climate, with 2,800 hours of sunlight each year, local people have a few nicknames for Split: “The most beautiful city in the world” and “Mediterranean flower” . Many famous Croatian sports people were born in Split, so locals often nicknamed their city “The sportiest city in the world” . The most popular sport institution is the football club Hajduk. Large portions of the city are painted with the club’s colors and logo. This is done by Torcida, the oldest supporters group in Europe, established in 1950. Besides the bell tower of St. Duje, the symbols of city are the Dalmatian dog and a donkey. Locals have a high regard for the donkey because of its past indispensable place in field work and transport across the Dalmatian mountains.

63.1.1 Tourist information

Winters in Split are generally mild, with temperatures above 0°C, but despite the popular saying that the city experiences snowfall once every 30 years, there is actually at least one snowy day nearly every winter, usually in 184

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1 TIC Riva (Tourist Information Centre ), Obala Hrv. narodnog preporoda 9. (updated Aug 2016) 1 TIC Peristil (Tourist Information Centre ), Peristil bb (at a tiny former chapel ). (updated Aug 2016)

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Diocletian’s Palace, reconstruction of the original appearance

63.2 Get in

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63.2.1 By plane

Bus #37 (the stop is just outside of the airport – walk through the parking lot straight south. The nearest stop is for direction towards Trogir. The stop towards Split is at the other side of the road ). This bus runs between Split and Trogir mostly every 30 min. In Split the line terminates at the bus hub Sukoišan , which is a bit out of the centre and the port. So, here you'd change to bus 9 or 10, or just walk about a kilometre along the major road that runs bythe bus stop (stops for buses 9 and 10 are also by this road). You can download a printable schedule. It takes 50 min. to reach Split and 10 min. -- Trogir. Singe to Split 17 Kn; to Trogir 13 Kn (tickets are bought from the bus driver). (updated Aug 2016) Taxi ( just outside the terminal ). It was advised to check the price before a ride (about 30 min to Split). Approx. price to Split 200-300 kn; to Trogir 100 Kn. (updated Aug 2016)

1 Zračna luka Split (Split Airport IATA: SPU ) (ap prox. 25 km west of Split, 5 km east of Trogir ). It is, There are also plenty of options for pre-booked transfers. after Zagreb Airport, the most important in Croa- A ride to the city centre could cost about 32 EUR. tia. Scheduled services fly to major European cities, with summer charter flights from more. The airport is about 25 km west from Split, near the city of Tro- 63.2.2 By bus gir. It has free WiFi internet. (updated Aug 2016) Split main bus station is located at the eastern end of Riva, close to the port: Flights to and from Belgrade, Serbia were reintroduced in June 2012 after a 21-year hiatus. As of July there are four 1 Autobusni kolodvor Split (AK Split ). Frequent flights per week. As expected, there is massive demand buses run to and from Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Sibenik, for these planes, so book with Croatia Airlines or Jat AirZadar, Rijeka etc. There are also regular buses to ways well in advance in order to get a cheaper ticket. If and from Mostar and Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herzeyou are seated next to the window, you can catch a maggovina) (210 kn), Belgrade (Serbia), Trieste (Italy) nificent glimpse of Sarajevo from 21,000 feet. and major cities of Germany and Austria and even Hungary. You can get detailed information on it’s web site about departure and arrival times. (updated Ground transportation Aug 2016) •

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Pleso prijevoz (Shuttle bus to Split ) ( from the terminal exit follow to the left – to the bus stop; from the city departures are from the main bus station AK Split, platform No.1), ☎ +385 21 203-119. The service run by the Pleso prijevoz . A journey lasts approx 1/2 hour. Bus departures from Split are scheduled (check for Airport shuttle bus) between 05:00-19:00 with interval 30-60 min. From the airport departures are scheduled to 20-30 min. after arrival of a regular flight (even if a plane is delayed). So beware if you're flying by a charter flight! 30 Kn. (updated Aug 2016)

In the summer season there are more lines than offseason, for example in June–July-August, daily night buses to Banja Luka and Gradiska, north of Bosnia, as well as buses to Niš, Serbia twice a week. On most intercity buses you pay a fee for luggage. This fee of about €0.5-€1 per piece of luggage is paid to the driver upon boarding. Some drivers are rather picky about being paid in exact change in the correct currency (sometimes a local currency, at other instances requesting to be paid in Euros) and sometimes also refuse to be paid in too small coins. So keep some change ready.

For destinations around Split-Dalmatia County (Splitsko Shuttle to Trogir and Marine Kaštela. As per dalmatinska županija) like Trogir and Solin check the bus information at their web site Pleso prijevoz also pro- hub Sukoišan. vides shuttle services to Trogir and Marine Kaštela. 20 Kn. (updated Sep 2016) Prijevoz putnika Žele. Apr-Sep. Seasonal shuttles to/from Split main bus station. 30 Kn. (updated Aug 2016)

63.2.3 By boat •

1 Passenger port. Long distance ferries run three times a week across theAdriaticto andfrom Ancona

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CHAPTER 63. SPLIT

and Pescara (Italy). There is also a large ferry that runs twice a week up and down the coast between Dubrovnik and Rijeka, stopping off at a couple of islands along the way. Split is the main hub for local boats and hydrofoils in Central Dalmatia. Several a day run to and from Brac, Hvar, Solta, Vis, Korčula and Lastovo. (updated Aug 2016) The maijor operators here are: •

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Jadrolinija. State-owned sea shipping company. They have regular lines connecting the Croatian shore to its islands and with Italy. SNAV. Italian sea shipping company with ferries harbour, bus terminal, and train station from Ancona to and from Split. Tickets starting at €30 for a single crossing without cabin.

63.3.1 By bus

Blue Line International. Sea shipping company that operates between Croatia and Italy. Public transit is organized by Promet. Most of the city buses in Split are new, but some are very old and dilapidated. 63.2.4 By train •

1 Kolodvor Split (Railway station ), Domagojeva 1 Kolodvor Sukoišan. It is the main hub for loobala 9 (at the port, 400m from the city centre ). cal buses as well as for destinations around Split06:15-22:15. Trains run between Split and ZaDalmatia county (Splitsko-dalmatinska županija) greb, Split and Perković (where you can change for like Trogir and Solin. (updated Aug 2016) Šibenik). Timetables can be found from Croatian Railways website. Trains are generally slower than buses in Croatia, the price is approximately similar. Left luggage lockers are available at the station. (up- Tickets. Are available at kiosks across the city or from dated Aug 2016) a bus driver (only single-journey). Tickets must be validated on board by a yellow machine or given to the driver Split train station is right in the city centre, it is a few for validation. Single – 9 Kn (from a bus driver – 11 Kn), minutes walk from the port and from the old town. Ex- Double journey ticket ( Pojedinačna karta za dva putopect very friendly grannies to be waiting with signs saying vanja) - 18 Kn, Set of double journey ticket starting from “Sobe” (rooms) at all arrivals and they will jump on any- 5 - 17 Kn each ticket; Monthly ticket ('mjesečna pokazna one with a backpack. The train station is rather basic, karta') - 290 Kn. (updated Aug 2016) because train travel is not much used to Split. •

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Trains to Perković run through a picturesque valley/village of Primorski Dolac depart 5 times a day and stop in every station taking 1 hr exactly to do the journey. This is a very picturesque journey to make, and although Perković is simply a collection of houses you could get off and have a coffee or go for a walk in the hills before returning to Split. Connecting Trains leave Perković for Šibenik several times a day, and should be marked on the timetable in Split station.

63.3 Get around

63.3.2 By bike Rent a bike and enjoy beautiful biking along Split’s waterfront (Riva), continue to Marjan hill (approximately 7 km), climb to the top of the hill for great view on the Split town and surrounding islands. You can bike to the east side, along thecoast to nearby village of Stobrec. Another great option from Split is to takea day tour to nearby islands of Solta, Brac, Hvar or Vis. You can take the bike on a regular ferry (they leave approximately every couple of hours in the summer season) and bike along quite roads and charming villages, explore great beaches and restaurants and return in the evening to Split!

?'"ÙNIQ--maplink-00000003-QINU`"'? Map of Split Central Split is quite compact and most sights can be Older but rideable mountain bikes are available for 15 easily seen and best experienced on foot, but there are kn/hour (March 2012) at the northern entrance to Marfrequent local buses to outlying attractions and the airport. jan hill (near Mandalinski put).

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63.3.3 By boat Speed taxi boat is an excellent solution for fast transportation of passengers on whole Adriatic. Said service is available trough Dalmatia-express for direct transportation from airport Split to Split Riva or from Split Riva to Dalmatia islands. If you don't know how to sail, there are a few companies that offer skippered charters in the area. If you are seeking something affordable, Antlos enables you to book boat holidays with local Skippers that offer trips around Split’s coastline and visits to the neighbouring islands and if you're looking for something upmarket, there Papalic mansion are many superyacht charter agencies such as Burgess Yachts, Navis Yacht Charter and Camper and Nichol63.4.1 Diocletian’s Palace sons. UNESCO World Heritage site The historic centre of Split is built around the remains of this Roman palace. You only need to wander around to experience it but you 63.3.4 By train can also pay to visit the excavated remains of the baseIt is a little known fact that there is a local suburban rail- ment of the palace. The palace has well preserved main way service between Split and Kaštel Stari at the shore of streets cardo and decumanus. Roman palace is enriched with some gothic and reinassance buildings which makes Kaštelanski Zaljev ( Kastelanski bay). a perfect match. Palace has 4 monumental gates Porta Aurea (Zlatna vrata, Golden gate), Porta Argenta (Srebrna vrata, Silver gate), Porta Ferrea (Željezna vrata, Iron gate) and Porta Aenea (Mjedena vrata). It is probably the 63.4 See best preserved Roman palace in the world. •

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1 Peristylium (Peristil square). Main square of Diocletian’s palace with well preserved Roman architecture. 1 Katedrala sv. Duje (St. Duje’s cathedral ). Originally built around 305 AD as a mausoleum of Roman emperor Diocletian’s (the oldest cathedral building in the world). Cathedral is also a very beautiful mixture of Roman temple and Catholic church. It also has a beautiful belltower which provides you a great panoramic view of Split, nearby islands and Marjan hill. 1 Jupiter temple ( Cathedral’s baptistry). Ancient Roman temple which became St. John’s church. 5 Kn. 1 Getski vrtal, Ul. Dominisova. is the smallest park in Split, situated in the Diocletian’s palace at the Dominisova street (Marko Antonio De Dominis street). In that park are beautiful traditional Dalmatian tiramolas. During the summer these are full of clothes drying in the sunshine. In every guidebook about Split you have pictures from the Getski vrtal. It is the location of a 500 yr old stone house which was destroyed during World War II. Two original Egyptian sphinxes- One is located on Peristil square, and the other in front of Jupiter’s

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temple or St. John’s church. They were brought from Egypt by Roman emperor Diocletian.

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63.4.2 Beyond the Diocletian’s Palace •

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Riva is the main city promenade. Since 2007. Riva has a new, modern appearance, which isn't up to the taste of some who used to it’s authentic look.

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Marjan - a hill situated on the west of Split. Marjan is an oasis for many people who look for a natural stress relief, a great place for long walks, jogging, and bike rides. Marjan’s peak, Telegrin is 174 m high and gives a wonderful panoramic view of Split. South cliffs are popular within alpine climbers. St. Nicholas church is situated on the east of Marjan, on its south side are beautiful St. Jeronimus church and “Gospe od Betlema” church (Madonna of Betlehem). House building is strictly forbidden in order to save Marjan - the lungs of Split. •

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Varoš - one of the oldest parts of town. A place where lived most of the city peasants and fishermen. Charming streets and beautiful small houses. Galerija Meštrović. The gallery contains works of Ivan Meštrović, famous Croatian sculptor.

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Archaeological Museum. The oldest museum in Croatia (1820), about 20 min walk north of the old town (entry 20 kn). Many artifacts and monuments from Roman colonies Salona and Narona. Old graveyards. Sustipan and old Jewish cemetery

63.5 Do

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Riva

1 Split city beach (Continue south past the busstation, follow the road which goes by the tracks, and from the bridge over the tracks you can take a stairs down to the beach. ). If you have a longer stop-over in Split, just 5 mins south of the passenger terminal and the train and bus stations lies Splits city beach where you can take a plunge in the Adriatic. free. Sunbathe and swim on the beach at Bačvice. To reach this beach walk south along the waterfront from the bus station and then follow the road that crosses the railway line. There are many cafes and places to eat ice cream. This is certainly not the best beach in Croatia (it is packed solid most of summer), but it will give you a feeling of 'real' Croatia as the vast majority of people who go there are from Split. There are also beaches around hill Marjan. Most popular are Kaštelet, Kašjuni and beautiful pine forest beach Bene. On Bene beach there is a restaurant and a recreation centre. Bus No. 12 travels there. Climb the campanile bell tower next to the palace mausoleum. The stairs cling to the inside of the tower, and in places the steps cross the large open window spaces. The ascent is certainly not for those with vertigo, but the views from the top are marvelous. It costs only 10 kn to go up the bell tower. The historic core of Split with Diocletian palace is among the first urban complexes to enter the list of the UNESCO world heritage in year 1979. Most probably this one of a kind Imperial Palace was built from 298-305 AD and is one of the most significant original structures of the period mostly because so much of it has been preserved. Later this Palace contributed to the broadening of the town because as the city evolved beyond its walls. The unique substructure halls were newley explored and each year more of them are opened to the public. Some have fascinating artefacts on display. May - Oct 10AM12 noon-7PM (?). Nov-Apr, opens at 11AM, duration 90 min. In English language. Starts in front of the tourist info centre, please arrive 15 min before tour is due to commence. Snorkelling Experience. Snorkelling and diving Experience by boat from Split harbour. Licenced PADI diving center. Green Market (Pazar). Split’s Pazar is the place to go for a variety of wares such as fruits and veggies, clothing and other odds and ends. Lots of local colour and excitement. Picigin, Bačvice. Traditional beach game with a small ball (Bačvice beach). In summer every year there is a world championship in picigin.

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Grgur Ninski. It is said that if you touch the big toe The majority of sailing charters start from the city of of the statue and make a wish your wish will come Split. There are many charter agencies where you can true. charter a sailing or motor yacht which are based in Split. Most of them operate from ACI marina Split, marina Bike tour, ☎ +385 21 388951, e-mail: Zenta or marina Spinut. There are also many charter [email protected]. Day tour with hybrid, agencies based in marina Kastela which is based in the road or e-bike. Explore the old town of Split and vicinity of Split. Marjan hill. You can also just rent a bike (some also available at northern entrance to Marjan hill) When you charter a yacht through a charter agency and arrive to the designated marina there are a few things that and explore the city on your own. need to be done. Poljud stadium. Poljud stadium known to locals The most important thing is the yacht check in (usually as “Poljudska Ljepotica” (Poljud Beauty”)is a sec- Saturdayaround4PM). Takeyour time doing yacht check ond largest stadium in Croatia and has a capacity in. Familiarise yourself with the chartered yacht and with of 36,000 people. The stadium was originally con- the yacht equipment. The rule of thumb is the more time structed by the Yugoslavian government as part of you take for the yacht check in, the less time you will need the facilities for the 1979 Mediterranean Games and for the yacht check out. was oficially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was avowed fan of the team who play their home games After that you have to do the shopping for the charter in Poljud HNK Hajduk Split. By far the most im- vacation. Don't neglect the groceries shopping because portant and revered sports team in Dalmatia, a ded- the sea is unpredictable and you don't want to get stuck on icated fanbase around the world has followed Haj- the boat without sufficient provisions of food and drink. duk throughout the team’s history. There are numer- You can do the shopping in a marina although the prices ous anecdotes about Hajduk never played without at are usually much higher there, or you can order from least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Tor- yacht provisioning services who usually deliver the prodcida. It is the oldest supporters group in Europe. If ucts to the marina at no extra fee. In Jam Yacht Supply you are going to visit some match do not go on north offer an online provisioning catalogue and you can orpart, which is the cheapest one, that part is reserved der from a large selection of groceries and other products for Torcida. months in advance, everything you order awaits for you at the marina. Sea Kayaking & Snorkelling in ☎ +385 98408123, e-mail: Split, Daily boat tours, ☎ +385 95 6129 500. Daily boat given2fl[email protected]. Sea kayaktours from Split to Hvar, Brac and other attractions ing tours with snorkelling and cliff jumping in such as Blue Cave, Green Cave and more. (updated Split. Explore Split in the unique way from the sea. Sep 2016) (updated Oct 2016) Daily sailing tours, ☎ +385 21 717 813, e-mail: Seabob. Explore some beaches above or below [email protected]. Daily sailing tours from ter with a SEABOB. Split to Brac, Hvar and other nearby destinations. (updated Sep 2016) Rock Climbing, DWS and cliff ☎ 0038598408123, e-mail: jumping, Yacht charter Split, Rogač, ☎ +385 1 4882 209, given2fl[email protected]. With over e-mail: [email protected]. 08h-19h. One of 400 bolted rock climbing routes in Split area the most popular yacht charter spots, Split is considclimbers of all age and experience can take part in ered by many to be the starting point to any explorock climbing adventure created for everyone who ration route of the central Dalmatian coast. wants to have thrill of climbing rocks. Marjan Hill (updated Sep 2016) is situated at the peninsula in the middle of Split with the beautiful limestone cliffs and more than 80 Speed boat tours from Split, Obala routes on the climbing area with the stunning view Lazareta 1, ☎ +3859777447417, e-mail: of the surrounding islands. Special touch to the tour [email protected]. 07am - 11pm. Best is the opportunity to climb around churches and way to visit more than 1 island in a day. Starting hermit settlements dated back to the 15th century. from the strict city center- waterfront promenade (updated Apr 2017) “Riva"- Right in front of the Diocletian Palace’s southern basements entrance. Day speed boat tour to the Blue cave, Hvar island, Brač island & Vis 63.5.1 Sailing island. (updated Sep 2016) •

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There are lots of companies running boats, such as Busabout, Topdeck and Contiki.

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Yachting ACI Marina in Split, Uvala Baluni 8 HR-21000 Split, ☎ +385 21 398-599, e-mail:

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[email protected]. 08h-19h. ACI Marina in Split is located on the left side of the bay in Split. It is purposed for touristic sailing yachts and motorboats not longer than 20 metres. Bigger boats and gullets are not allowed to anchor there they should stay in main Split harbour. Marina is equipped with parking places, small market. GPS coordinates for sailors: N 43° 30' 155 E 16° 25' 801.

63.6 Buy •

1 Ribarnica, Obrov 2. Fish market.

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1 Marmontova. Shopping street in the centre.

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Ćevapi or Ćevapčići (diminutive), are small grilled rolls of minced beef, pork, or lamb, or a combination of any of these three. Usually served with chopped onions, Kajmak (similar to clotted cream) or Ajvar (a relish made from bell peppers, aubergines, garlic and chilli). Ćevapi are traditional Bosnian dish and they are popular across the Balkans.

Plenty of fast food joints between the Old Town and the bus station. •

Profil, Algoritam and VBZ. Bookshops with some English-language titles.

Shopping malls •

Please note; in a world suffocating under the weight of processed foods, Croatia’s coastal cuisineis unique in that most of its produce is organic.

Split’s eateries are to be found in a variety of settings, 1 Pazar, Stari Pazar 2. Green market with perfect ranging from the romantic to the vibrant. It isn’t difficult fruit, vegetables and more. The best time to visit the to enjoy superb food and wine in a classical environment with good friends and/or family. market is Saturday morning.

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Do not miss Dalmatian pašticada s njokama (Gnocchi).

City Center One, Vukovarska 207. daily 9AM9PM, cinema and caffe bars 9AM-11PM. Opened in 2010. 3 floors (5 garage levels) and Cineplexx cinema. Joker Put Brodarice 6. Opened in 2007. 50 shops on 4 floors with Tommy supermarket, DM, Hervis sports shop, Deichmann and a McDonalds. 15-20 min walk from the city center with buses stopping near the front of the centre. There is a cinema on the first floor. The top floor has fitness club, restaurant and a sky bar with an outdoor swimming pool.

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63.7 Eat •

The most famous local delicates is Soparnik. It originates from nearby Poljica region (formerly known as Poljička Republika or Republic of Poljica in the Middle Ages). It is a dough filled with chard and baked in the fireplace. On top comes olive oil and garlic. You can find it on Pazar (green market). Italian influences dominate on Croatia’s coast, amongst the best are; Risotto with tender white scampi or black calamari, a dish beloved by all Croatians. A wide selection of salumi, magnificent Istrian and Dalmatian hams (Dalmatinski pršut - comparable to Parma or Speck) and cheese from the island of Pag , are well worth trying, as are the large varieties of excellent Croatian wines and beers.

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Nostromo, Kraj Svete Marije 10 ( just off Marmontova). Good seafood and salad in a rather smoky ambience with friendly service. Main dish 60-200 kn. Picaferaj, Popovica 2 (a block W from Trg Republike). Varied menu, a couple of outside tables Main dish 55-150 kn. Cetina, Radunica 16, ☎ +385 21 482 243. Varied menu including local specialities, good value, friendly service (English spoken), no credit cards. Main dish 50-100 kn. Kod Joze, Sredmanuska 4, ☎ +385 21 347 397. The traditional family-run konoba serves tasty dishes in style. Prices very reasonable considering the quality and atmosphere. Mains 50-120 kn. Panchos, Nepotova 3. Good Mexican place in the land of cevapcici. Staff is friendly, the place is nice, but a bit small. Mains 20-40 kn. Buffet Picaferaj, popovica 2. Small side street restaurant run by a young married couple, incredible food at a very fair price. Pasta with prawns and mussels is 70 kn. Fino Friško, Čulića dvori 2. Because of its proximity to school, this bakery always has fresh and tasty food. Mala kuća, Domovinskog rata 27d, Put firula 39. daily 9AM-12 midnight. Fast food with delicious marinated chicken grill sandwich (20 kn). Popaj, Pojišanska b.b., Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića b.b.. Mo-Th winter 8AM-12 midnight, summer 8AM-1AM, Fr-Sa winter 8AM-1PM, summer

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8AM-2PM, Su winter 3PM-12 midnight, summer 3PM-1AM. The most popular fast food in Split with great pizzeta (small pizza, 10 kn) and very big ham sandwich (14 kn). •

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Hajduk, Matošića 4. The best ice cream in town with big selection of flavours. Yogurt icecreams 7 kn.

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Pizzeria Bakra, Radovanova 2. 10AM-11PM. Definitely one of the best Pizza in town, baked on fireplace.

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Biser Orijenta, Bihaćka 2a (top floor of Lavčević building). 11:30AM-midnight. Good “European Chinese” cuisine. Not too popular among the locals, buttheprices arefair andthe service is friendly. Mains 50-70 kn, duck and seafood dishes up to 120 kn.

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1 Konoba Marjan, Senjska, 1, ☎ +385 98 9346848. Risottos, pasticada (marinaded veal cooked in sauce), and excellent fish. Prices are very reasonable and the staff very friendly. English spoken. Fife, Trumbiceva obala 11 (across the bay from the ferry terminal ). Lively and busy restaurant with lots of seating and deliciously large Croatian dishes. Mains 40-80 kn.

Gaga Bar (tucked away in a corner, just off Narodni Trg). Cosy atmosphere, long list of cocktails, latin music. Ask for a bill, because one round is 100 kn, and then second one (the same one) may be 150 kn. Atmosphere is nice, but the waiters are not. More tourists than locals. Pint 20 kn, cocktails 20-35 kn. Tonik Juice Bar, Ban Mladenova 5 ( one block west of Riva’s end ). Fresh made juices, smoothies and coffee. Smoothie 30 kn. 1 Buffet Picaferaj, Popovica 2. A small restaurant on a side street that serves fresh seafood dishes. Run by a young married couple. Pasta with fresh prawns and mussels is 70 kn (about €11). 1 Na kantunu, Dominisova 9 (within the Diocletian palace). After 3 rounds waiter will bring traditional rakija with honey (medica)-nice and strong. Supporters of Hajduk Split are there, so when there is a match in Split it may become too crowded. It is probable the smallest bar in Split with just 8 tables inside in a 15 m² space. Great atmosphere and a cappuccino is 8 kn. In front of the cafe bar there are few tables where you can sit if the weather is nice. Karlovačko beer only 12 kn (about €1.7) a pint, Velebitsko beer is 15 kn a pint.

63.8.1 Nightclubs

1 Kod Sfinge Vanevropske Zviri, Ulica Kraj Sve- There are many clubs on Bačvice beach. tog Ivana 2 (Inside Diocletian’s Palace, inbetween Jupiter’s temple and Peristil ), ☎ +385 99 443 8666. Imperium restaurant & lounge bar, Gat Sv Duje A Konoba/Trattoria. Good Dalmatian specialibb ( ferry terminal ), ☎ +385 21 338 555. Nice highties: Pašticada, Paški sir, etc... Also propose good end interior with acceptable prices and spectacuseafood catch of the day, but sometime unavailable. lar view of old town of Split. House music, world Seems to be operated by a single familly: The waitknown DJs and parties. ers knows very well the menu! Pašticada for 150 kn. (updated Aug 2016) O´Hara, Uvala Zenta 3. Rock and pop music on two floors. •

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63.8 Drink Dalmatia is well known for its world class wines, but when in Split it is a must to try soda drinks called Pipi and Orela, produced by local beverage manufacturer Dalmacijavino. Lots of outdoor cafés are to be found along the Riva seafront. •

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St Riva ( Riva seafront ). Has an upper story that overlooks the promenade. 20 kn a pint.

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Vanilla Club, Poljudsko šetalište b.b.. Fancy place by the swimming pool with popular domestic and foreign music. 1 Hemingway Bar, VIII Mediteranskih igara 5. Extremely fancy club. 1 Quasimodo, Gundulićeva 26. Rock and underground music. Mostly full with local alternatives.

63.9 Sleep

Shook, Mihovilova sirina 4 ( In the heart of Old Town). Chill out cafe/bar with electronic beat in a There is a wide variety of private accommodation availbusy passageway. 15 kn a pint. able in Split, as well as a few hostels. Some of the best

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prices can probably be obtained by going to the bus station or ferry terminal and haggling with the many people there offering accommodation - even fairly late at night, there are still many people offering beds.

63.9.2 Mid-range 63.9.3 Splurge •

63.9.1 Budget Hostels •

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Adria Hostel, Bajnice (near the main coastal road between Split and Omis, about 12 km south of Split. Take bus #60 or contact the hostel to arrange pickup ), ☎ +49 177 7368595, +385 21 873028, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 11:00, checkout: 09:30. Right next to the Adriatic Sea. Dorm bed: around €15-25; bed in private room: €18-28. Al’s Place, Petra Kružića 10 ( inside the city walls ), ☎ +385 98 918 2923, e-mail: [email protected]. A great hostel (and the first in Split) run by a British expat named Al, a guywho is passionate about travel and wants his guests to get the most from their stay in Split. He even goes out for a beer with guests sometimes. The hostel is in an 800-year old stone house inside the city walls, small and cozy with only 12 beds in 2 ensuite rooms. There is also kitchen (for guests), and common area, A/C, and laundry. Dorm bed: 110-130 kn.

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CroParadise Split Hostel, Culica Dvori 31. LCD televisions and computers with free internet access in every room. Dorm bed: From 70 kn. •

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Guesthouse Split, Lovretska 1 (next to the archeological museum). Free WiFi, private rooms available dorm bed €13-18.. Hostel Split Mediterranean House, Vukasoviceva 21, ☎ +385 98 987 1312. The hostel has been built into an old stone house just outside of the historical centre. Free wifi. Dorm bed: 80 kn (low season). Old Town Hostel, Dominisova 3, ☎ +385 91 920 1539, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 1PM, check-out: 12PM. Free wifi, 1 shared computer, flat screen TV with a collection of movies.

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Pletkovic Hostel, Poljana Kneza Trpmira 1. Silver Central Hostel, 1 Kralja Tomislava. Dorm bed: 110-180 kn. SilverGate Hostel, Hrvojeva 6 (A 5 min walk from the train/bus/ferry terminals ), ☎ +385 21 322 857, e-mail: [email protected].

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Guesthouse Vrlic, Držićeva 7, ☎ +385 99 2152 352. US$76-125. Hotel Atrium, Domovinskog rata 49a, ☎ +385 21 20 0000. Hotel Dalmina, Kopilica 5, ☎ +385 21 35 00 00. Hotel Globo, Lovretska 18, ☎ +385 21 481 111. US$140-228. Hotel Luxe (Hotel Luxe Split ), Kralja Zvonimira 6, ☎ +385 21 314 444. US$110-221. Hotel Park, Hatzeov perivoj 3, ☎ +385 21 406 400. Hotel Peristil, Poljana kraljice Jelene 1, ☎ +385 21 329 070. Hotel San Antonio, Grljevacka 30, Podstrana ( 7 km towards Dubrovnik, on the right hand side, right on the beach ), ☎ +385 21 336 111, e-mail: [email protected] . 54 rooms and 3 suites. €48-95. Hotel Vestibul Palace, Iza vestibula 4, ☎ +385 21 329 329. US$175-263. Le Méridien Lav, Grljevacka, 2A, Podstrana, ☎ +385 21 500 500. Marmont, Zadarska 13, ☎ +385 21 308 060. US$359. Radisson Blu, Put Trstenika 19, ☎ +385 21 303 030. €68-171. Villa Varos Hotel Split, Miljenka Smoje 1, ☎ +385 21 483 469. US$75-114. Rva Apartments, Alijesijeva 6, ☎ +385 914 45 45 43, e-mail: [email protected]. On the 'Riva' waterfront promenade with south-facing views of Split Bay.

63.10 Stay safe

Situs Hostel, Starčevićeva 3. Dorm bed: 110-150 kn. Do not go to striptease bars because theyare a tourist trap.

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you ask for it, they are quite flexible as most people are in Split. A return ferry ticket should cost about 70 kn and has no time restrictions within the same day.

Dentist •

Split-Dent Dental treatment, visitors to the city are welcome.

63.11 Connect

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63.11.1 Internet access •

There are internet cafés in the old centre of the city •

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Internet club Net Com P. Grgura Ninskog 9, . Internet and international calls. Smokvina Travel Majstora Jurja 3.

There are several more Internet cafés by the harbour just north of the train station. One provides Ubuntu Linux. •

DenCall internet-Split, ☎ +385 21 345 014, email: [email protected]. 8AM-11PM. 17 computers, connection speed: 1,5 Mbit, printing b/w, camera to CD/usb transfer, call centre, international calling cards, rent-a-bike, luggage storage.

There is freeinternet via WiFi in the People’s Square next to the Lacoste store. Search for “Split Hotspot”

63.12 Go next •

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Salona - ancient Roman colony, one of the biggest towns of Roman Empire. It had a population of nearly 60,000 people. It was a capital of Roman province Dalmatia. Well preserved amphitheater, theater, basilica, cemetery and many other Roman buildings. Situated near town of Solin, 10-20 min bus ride from Split. Hvar - A day trip by boat to this island is well worth the effort. Boats leave five times a day in peak season (July–August), three times a day outside this period (a single trip cost about 42 kn to Stari Grad on Hvar). Hvar town is small but extremely attractive, with numerous large yachts moored in the harbour. If using the left luggage service ensure you thoroughly check the prices and conditions of use. Brač - An alternative could be the boat to the island of Brač which is just the other side of the water. Boats leave up to 10 times daily and it takes you 1 hr to Supetar. The last ferry back to Split leaves at 10:45PM. Tryrenting a bikeor scooter for exploring the island. When renting, take into account that the rental service normally closes rather early but when

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Krka National Park - one of eight national parks in Croatia. Enjoy in beautiful waterfalls and visit old monastery on the island Visovac. Omiš - this little town is situated on the mouth of Cetina river and its magnificent canyon. It is ideal place for rafting and canyoning. Horse Club - in village called Donje Ogorje you can ride a horse in the nature. It will cost you 100 kn (13 €) for one hour. There is also an option for riding and sleeping in the nature for several days. Makarska - a popular resort town with beautiful beaches, 60 km southeast of Split. Frequent buses (price 40-50 kn one way). Bosnia and Herzegovina - possible day trips by regular scheduled bus include Mostar, Međugorje, Livno, Bugojno, Ljubuški, Travnik and evenZenica.

Chapter 64

Trogir Trogir is a historic town and harbour on the Adriatic coast in Croatia, with a population of approximately 13,000. Today it is part of the greater Split metropolitan area or conurbation which numbers over 400,000 inhabitants.

64.1 Understand Trogir is on the UNESCO World Heritage List asitisone of the best preserved medieval towns in Europe. It is a fascinating place to just wander and also contains a range of accommodation. At present the town is undergoing considerably redevelopment, but it far from fully developed and you will still find run down or even abandoned houses. It is definitely worth the day trip from Split. •

1 Turistička zajednica Grada Trogira (Tourist Board Of Town Trogir ), Trg Ivana PavlaII br.1. (updated Aug 2016)

64.2 Get in church tower in the middle

64.2.1 By plane Split Airport is just 5 km east from the town. There are a few options to reach Trogir from the airport or vise versa: •

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Bus #37 ( Trogir-Split ) (departs from the east side of the bus station ). A journey takes about 10 min. Buses arescheduled every20 minutes during theday and every30 minutes in the evening andon Sundays. 13 Kn. (updated Oct 2016) Taxi (in Trogir the closest 1 taxi rank is located across the road at the west side of the bus station ). about 100 kn, but it’s worth checking with the driver beforehand. (updated Oct 2016) Friendly local. If going to the airport from Trogir bus station then some local might offer you a lift for View from tower even a half of the official price, but of course this option would be not quite official. About 50 Kn. (updated Oct 2016) 194

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64.5. DO

64.2.2 By bus •

1 Autobusni kolodvor Trogir ( Bus station). The station is a hub for local, regionaland intercitybuses. Regional bus #37 connects Trogir with the city of Split and the airport and Kaštela – a chain of settlements along the Kaštelanski Bay. (updated Aug 2016)

cathedral of Trogir. It is also known as St. John’s Cathedral (Sveti Ivan) after bishop John, who died in 1111. (updated Aug 2016) •

•

64.2.3 By car Trogir is in about 25 km (30 minutes by car) from the centre of Split.

64.3 Get around

1 Knezev dvor. a 15th-century town hall (updated Aug 2016) 1 Kaštel Kamerlengo ( Kamerlengo Castle) ( at the waterfront ). This tiny 14th century fortress was build to control access to the harbor and the bay of Kastela. . You walk on top of the walls and go to the top of the big tower and enjoy the view over the town 15 Kn.

64.5 Do Explore stunning beaches, spectacular islands with lavender-covered hills, small medieval and renaissance towns and Roman ruins characterize the intriguing strip of land that comprises Central Dalmatia. Warm Dalmatian hospitality and cheer is sure to capture your soul as you explore the quaint towns and old fishing ports. In Poljica you can take peaceful evening walks free of modern day noise. In the village you can find a restaurant, shop and cafe bar. Peaceful place for leisure time on the reach of attractive destinations (Trogir, Split, Šibenik, etc.).

64.6 Eat harbour front

The old part of Trogir occupies an island which you can walk around in about 20 minutes.

•

•

For those who are eager to venture somewhere out of the town there are a number car rental options.

Mirkec Pizzaria, Budislaviceva 15 ( At the harbour ). Good food at reasonable prices 60 kuna. The End, Matije Gupca 10 ( in the middle of the old part ), ☎ +385 21 88 42 84. Charming restaurant occupying the end of a very narrow street in the old part. Croation/Italian food, mostly seafood HRK 80.

64.4 See Trogir is a jewel of a town encased in 15th-century walls. Tiny medieval streets wind through the enchanting town revealing hidden restaurants and eye-catching galleries. A wide seaside promenade snakes around the town, culminating in a charming port full of sailboats waiting to take you to the islands of Drvenik Mali and Drvenik Veli with their pristine sand beaches and secluded coves. Stretching out from the main land of Trogir to either side is an infinite number of beautiful beaches as well. A pleasing blend of Romanesque and Renaissance architecture. Trogir is a delightful little town that is conveniently located to explore Central Dalmatia. •

1 Crkva sv. Lovre ( St. Lawrence Church). Famous for it’s spectacular carved portal it is a former


Apartments Hrabar, Put dragulina 19d (150 meters west from the small bridge, turn right (north) and drive for another 400m. ), ☎ +385 91 5041736. Check-in: 14:00, check-out: 10:00. Well presented first floor 1 or 2 bedroom spacious and modern apartments 500m awayfromthe centre. The airconditioned apartments are fully equipped and comfortably furnished, with internet connection, satellite tv and a large South facing balcony. Access to a shared garden complete with furniture and barbecue, and private parking. From €50.

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Apartment Hrabar Longo, Gospe kraj mora, ☎ +385 20 435 555. Check-in: 14.00, check-out: 10.00. 65 + 20 m2. It is for 4-6 persons. €45112/night.

64.8.1 In the old part •

•

•

Palace Derossi, Hrvatskih Mučenika 1 ( close to bus station), ☎ +385 21881 241. From HRK 600. Roso, Ribarska 21 (close to the waterfront ), ☎ +385 91 7243148, e-mail: [email protected]. Nice and clean in good location. Ensuite bathrooms and air conditioned. HRK 250. Hostel Trogir, Trg Sv. Jakova 7 (Across the bridge to the Island of Ciovo. ), ☎ +385 91 579 2190, email: [email protected]. From €14.

64.9 Go next •

•

•

•

Split – Just a short drive away, visitors may explore this intriguing city with its busy commercial port, residential houses, shops and restaurants all rising from the incredible ruins of Diocletian’s Palace. Solin – with its Roman ruins are also just a short drive away from Trogir and make an extraordinary day trip. Island Hvar and Pakleni Islands Vis and Bisevo Islands

•

Green and Blue Caves

•

Stiniva Bay

Chapter 65

Vinisce Vinisce is a small city in Dalmatia, Croatia. Situated in a beautiful cove between Primosten and Trogir. Most of the inhabitants are occupied with agriculture, fishing and tourism. The place is famous for its numerous small bays apt for bathing, for its pebble and stone beaches, promenade along the shore, clean air, virginal nature. The coastline near the place is famous for its underwater world which can be interesting for spear-fishing lovers and divers.

•

Souvenirs from Vinisce and Croatia.

65.5 Eat •

Dalmatinski Prsut-Dalmatian smoked ham (ham smoked and dried in a specific way)

•

Jela ispod peke (traditional Croatian meals)

•

Local see-food specialties

65.1 Get in 65.6 Drink

65.1.1 By plane

•

Takeaflighttothe Split airport andthen take a busservice or rent a car to get to Vinisce.

65.1.2 By bus You can use services from frequent buses that come in and go from Split, Makarska, Sibenik, Dubrovnik, Rijeka.

•

Prosek: sweet liquor

•

Dalmatian home made wines

65.7 Sleep •

65.2 Get around You can get around the city by car or a bicycle.

65.3 Do •

•

•

•

Go and visit the city of Split, Solin and Trogir and enjoy the beauty of old architecture

65.4 Buy •

•

Swim and dive on beautiful and clean beaches

Discover nearby beaches

Rakija: hard alcohol made either from grapes or plums

Apartment Orlic, ☎ +385 21 394449, e-mail: [email protected]. Apartment 500m from the center of Vinisce for 6-8 persons and only 40 m from the beach. Nicely furnished, with SAT-TV, DVD, barbecue and pier for boat. Three bedrooms, balcony and secured parking place. Vinisce, ☎ +385 958572527. Private accommodation in Vinsce. Apartment Cicak,In first line from the coast, open view to the sea. +385 981870985, [meilto:ivona. [email protected]] Looking forward to Your visit!


Post cards

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Pizzeria, Restaurants and Coffee place

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Drive to Trogir or Split for nightlife activities, discos and theaters. Visit the most famous discotheque Aurora (in primosten)

Chapter 66

Vis Vis is one of the Dalmatian islands in Croatia.

bike for 24h. Taxis are available in the parking lots of the two main towns, English is sometime not spoken, so be prepared. A 10 km return ride on day time costs about 300 kuna.

66.1 Get in

Many companies organizes excursion with their boats. The island can be reached by ferry from Split. The jour- Typically tours leave in the morning around 9AM or acney takes around 2 hours and 30 minutes and costs about cording to weather conditions. Taxi boat service is more difficult to find and more expensive. 45 Kune. You'll arrive at the port of Vis.

66.3 See

66.2 Get around

The island has good roads, an inheritance of the previous The island is plenty of superb beaches. Most of them are status of the island as militar base. The main road goes peaceful even in full season. In general the seafront is not all around the island for about 30 km. Other roads cutting so exploited and looks really natural. the island in the middle exists as well.

Pebble beach at Srebrena beach A Dalmatian road

Vis is a small coastal town and you could easily walk everywhere. You can go to Komiža at the northern bay by bus (15-20 mins, 20 Kune). Regular bus service connects Vis harbour to Komiza, this is scheduled according to the departures and arrival time of the ferry from the main land. Departure from Komiza are typically one houre before the scheduled departure of the ferry from Vis. The bus leaves Vis few minutes later the ferry arrival.

On the south coast, close to the village of Rukavac, near the city of Milna, there is Srebrena beach or the Silver beach. This is a stunning white pebbled beach, which certainly deserves a visit. In the inner part of the bay there is the part of Srebrena covered with pebbles. This part is typically more crowded, while therocky part is just few meters away and look outside the bay and is certainly much more peaceful. You can find bars, and restaurant at ten minutes walking from the beach, close to the place where you have to leave your car.

There are rental service for cars, scooters and bikes. Prices as of August 2009 are 500 kuna to rent a car for One of the most extraordinary and stunning inlets in the 4h, 350 kuna to rent a scooter for 24h and 150 to rent a Adriatic is Stiniva bay on north of the island of Vis. The 199

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CHAPTER 66. VIS

Kamenica beach Srebrena beach

beach is not accessible by car and you have to walk a difficult and steep path for about 30 minutes. Stoncica bay is located about 6km from the city of Vis on the north eastern shore of the island of Vis. It is probably the most popular beach among young people. There you can find a nice kiosk with ice creams and refreshments, a cosy restaurant and a beach volley playground. The beach can be crowded in full season. It is probably the best beach in the island as far as concerns facilities.

66.4 Do 66.5 Buy 66.6 Eat

Food on the island can be really cheap compared to many western european countries. Pizza is rather popular but do not expect to eat the same thing you find in its homeland. However the Italian influence in the food is rather Nice beach are also at walking distance from the town of strong and you can be surprised by some pizza you can Komiza. Most notably the beach of Kamenica. There find on the island. you can find a nice bay with pebbles and a cosy atmosphere due to the Acquarius bar that on day time runs just Limoncello, Vis, ☎ +385 91 110 0312. The restaufewmeters away fromthe seafront. No food is served, but rant has its tables in a charming garden plenty of you can find all kinds of refreshments. a Mediterranean mood. Fish is excellent and the dishes cooked on wooden fire are so tasty that is difficult to tell. The choice is also good compared to other places on the island. A must. •

•

•

•

Kamenica beach near Komiza

•

Going further south from Kamenica you can find a nudist beach. NW from the center of the town of Komiza there is the main beach of Komiza. There you can find many facilities like a bar and a restaurant. Really close by there is the diving center of the town. The beach is covered with pebbles and is typically rather crowded for the local standards.

•

Kantun, 16, Biskupa Mihe Pusica, Vis, ☎ +385 91 371 1306. Very popular restaurant with the atmosphere of a fisherman house. Very good for “occasions”. Reservation needed. Barba, ☎ 00385(0)21713742. Nice restaurant in Komiza with food cooked on wooden fire. Jastozera, ☎ +385 91 543 6422. Pricey lobster house in the town of Komiza. Bako, 4, Gunduliceva, Komiza, ☎ 098 577994. Very cosy place in the town of Komiza. Food is quite good, prices are in the averace. The terrace is really nice, so close to the sea that you can really feel it. Plaza. is one of the best, and cheapest!, pizzeria in the town of Komiza. It is located in the town of Komiza near the hotel and the main beach. Prices are around 70 kuna for a meal and the food is rather good.

66.10. GO NEXT

•

•

1 Dionis, Matije Gupca 1, 21480 Vis, ☎ +385 21 711 963, toll-free: +385 21 711 126, e-mail: [email protected]. serves great Italian and Dalmatian food at reasonable prices. Try the calamari risotto! main dishes around 8-12€. (updated Aug 2016) Kolderaj, Ante Starcevica 2, Vis. is a small bakery at the coast where you can get coffee and tea as well.

66.7 Drink 66.8 Sleep Apartments are available in the town of Vis and Komiza, and in houses on the seafront. Prices are about 350 kuna for a 1 bedroom aprtment in full season.


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Chapter 67

Brac Brač is an island in the Adriatic Sea, in the Split-Dalmatia 67.4 Talk county of Croatia, near the city of Split. It is the largest island in Dalmatia and has a population of 14,000. Each townlet and village on the Brač island has its own In landscape, Brač is similar to its well known neighbor dialect but many people speakEnglish, German or Italian, Hvar, with its rolling hills, pine and fig trees, isolated especially if working in tourism. bays and clear water. Brač has two larger towns, Bol and Supetar.

67.5 Get in

67.1 Cities

•

•

Ferries sail from Split to Supetar (50 min), and Makarska to Sumartin (30 min) – timetable. A catamaran (passengers only) runs from the island of Hvar to Bol. Bol Airport has seasonal and charter flights.

67.6 Get around 67.6.1 By bus All the major destinations on the island are covered by the bus services run by Autotrans company.

Town of Bol

•

Supetar

•

Bol

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The charming village of Milna

•

Pucisca

•

The beautiful Bobovišća na Moru

67.6.2 By car In almost every place, it is possible to rent cars, scooters also quads and bicycles to explore the island.

67.7 See •

67.2 Other destinations 67.3 Understand

•

202

1 Pustinja Blaca (Blaca hermitage) ( Either by car to Dragovoda then hike down the path or by boat to Uvala Blaca then hike up the rather steep hill ). Tu-Su 08:00-17:00. A former monastery originating from 1551, now a museum run by two brothers. In the 2007 the hermitage was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List. guided tour 40 Kn. (updated Oct 2016) 1 Vidova gora. It is the highest mountain of all Adriatic islands. It has a great view to the Zlatni Rat

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67.10. DRINK

67.10 Drink Brač is famous for its wines, the most famous is Bolski Plavac. Spirits made of grapes with herbs.

67.11 Sleep 67.12 Stay safe 67.13 Go next Blaca hermitage

beach, place Bol and islands Hvar and Vis. (updated Oct 2016) •

•

•

Recommend to visit Dragon’s cave near village Murvica on the south side of island. Dominican monastery in Bol has a great collection prehistoric items, amphoras and numismatic collection. Museum of the island in the village Škrip.

67.8 Do

Murvica beach

Visit many pebble beaches and private coves, diving, kitesurfing and windsurfing in Bol.

67.9 Eat Try Brač dishes of domestic lamb (vitalac) and famous Brač cheese.

Chapter 68

Bol Bol is a town on the island of Brac in Dalmatia. Situated in a secluded place on the southern coast of the island, Bol is the oldest town of Brac and one of the most famous seaside resorts of the Adriatic.

68.1 Get in

island and one set of traffic lights! Buses take tourists and locals alike around the island or you could hire a car/scooter to explore. Once you arein Boleverything is within walking distance, just make sure you have a good pair of flat shoes as the town is set on a hill!

68.3 See Bol has some beautiful historic buildings including the ancient monastery and houses built by the Venetian rulers. The main thing to see is the idyllic views at every turn. If you are feeling active, Vidova Gora, the highest point on the island, is just behind Bol and gives fabulous views across the Dalmatian coast.

68.4 Do Bol Harbour

The most common way to get to Bol is by boat from Split Harbour, which is easily reached on the frequent buses from Split Airport (40 mins). There is a direct catamaran from Split once a day at 4PM (1 hour), every day of the year. Alternatively, take the car ferry from Split to Supetar on the other side of the island (approx 1 hour, services hourly in season), and then take the bus to Bol (approx 40 mins). Check for the timetable of the buses. If you take ferry later in the evening you will have to take taxi since there are no buses after 7PM. For the correct bus timetable check local agencies before arrival. In high season there are flights to the airport on Brac Is- Zlatni Rat land itself which is less than 10 km from Bol, these tend to come from Zagreb early on a Saturday morning. Enjoy diving, windsurfing, water sports (tubes and banana) and Bol beaches. •

68.2 Get around

•

Brac is a small island - it takes about 40 mins to drive from north to south, there is one roundabout on the whole 204

Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape) is a “triangle” beach that has trees in its middle. When you stand in the wonderful water on one of the sides of the beach you

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68.7. SLEEP

will see basically only the trees, the sea... and the sky. Perhaps the most beautiful beach in Croatia.

68.7.2 Hotels •

•

•

Play tennis on one of 26 beautifully-situated clay tennis courts, with mountains behind and seaviews in the front. Bol is famous as ideal spot for the windsurfing and kitesurfing. Sport centers in Bol provide courses with experienced instructors as well as the rent of the equipment.

•

•

•

•

•

68.6 Drink Bol’s numerous cafe-bars are open early till late, so you can drink beer or coffee from 6AM to midnight. There are two excellent open-air cocktail bars, one halfway between the town and the beach, so you can top up on your way home, and Varadero’s, right in the centre of town, which serves a great array of well-known drinks. In summer there is a house DJ and a great vibe.

68.7 Sleep

•

•

Bol has plenty of accommodation to offer. From luxury hotels to hostels to simple and nice private rooms. •

68.7.1 Hostels •

Domovinskog Funky Donkey Hostel, Rata 62, ☎ +385 91 341 6848, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 14.00, check-out: 12.00. 8 minutes away from the bus station and the ferry port. Only a 15 minute walk to the famous Zlatni Rat beach. Free WiFi, free Internet access, no lockout, 24 hour access, large terrace, BBQ area, and multiple kitchen facilities.

Zlatni rat beach resort. 4 star resort just few meters from Zlatni rat beach.

68.7.3 Apartments

68.5 Eat Bol has a great selection of reasonably priced restaurants and cafe-bars. For 8-10 kuna (around £1 or 1 Euro), you can have a cappuccino in a cafe-bar on the waterfront and watch the world go by for as long as you want. You might see Bernie Ecclestone arrive on his yacht or catch Goran Ivanisevic wandering around (he has a house nearby). Theold wine cellar (Podrum) is a beautiful venue for couples and large groups alike when you would prefer to eat indoors, or try Maza and Topolino for squid pizza (50 kuna, around £6). In the restaurants in Bol you can try famous island brac lamb as well as the fresh fish that local fisherman bring everyday on the market.

Bluesun hotels & resorts. 3 and 4 star hotels. Elaphusa, Borak and Bonaca.

•

1 Bol apartments, ☎ +385 98 286600, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 16:00, checkout: 10:00. Bol Apartments on best locations in Bol. Only newly refurbished and luxury apartments on offer. Also villas with swimming pool. €75. Apartments Buljan Bol. Only 200 m from centre with private parking and barbecue. Apartments have terrace with sea view, SAT TV, air condition and microwave oven. Zlatni Bol apartments. 9 luxury apartments for 2 to 4 persons. Each apartment is equipped with air conditioner, SAT TV, and all other appliances that will make your stay pleasant. Only 500m from the house is Zlatni rat beach and centre is 300m away. Apartment Santamaria. Two double bedroom apartment benefits from a well-stocked kitchen and living room with a sofa bed, satellite TV, private balcony, air conditioning, parking and fabulous triple aspect sea-views. There is a supermarket only 100m away and 2 restaurants within 50m. Both the Zlatni Rat beach and the centre are only 10 minutes walk away. Bol apartments. Are built with attention to detail to create an attractive ambient. Each apartment has separate entrance, seaside view, air conditioning and top quality furnishings, with sat TV, DVD, music plus jacuzzi, gym and sauna at disposal. Alpeza Bol apartments. 4 double bedroom apartments and 5 one bedroom apartments. All apartments are fully equipped and private parking place is secured for all guests. Each apartment hasair condition, sat TV and free WLAN internet. Apartments Kristian, Ivana Gundulica 14. Check-in: noon, check-out: 10AM. Five apartments which are fully equipped including air conditioner and satellite TV. Every apartment has its own parking space and free wireless internet connection. 200m from sea and close to beach Zlatni rat. Studio Zlatni rat. In small and quiet residential area near Borak beach and hotels Borak and Elaphusa. Everything is in walking distance, centre, beaches, tennis, market, cocktail bar “Bolero”. You

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have your own parking place. Zlatni rat studio 24m2 is elegantly furnished in modern style and equipped with A/C, sat-TV and private parking. •

•

Villa Oliva. Is luxury villa with 4 separated apartments accommodating up to 10 people. Villa is located in private olive grove with pool and private parking. Close to beaches and tennis center. 1 Sea Pearl apartments (Sea Pearl Bol apartments), Račić 9, ☎ +385 98 286600, e-mail: [email protected]. Bol Apartments are new apartments that arebuilt in 2016, actually a house in center of Bol was rebuilt into four 4* apartments. Its location is the one to wish for. In the heart of Bol, just meters away from sea, 10 meters to closest beach and with stunning view. €50. (updated Mar 2017)

68.8 Go next Bol offers many different types of transport for hire when you are ready to explore: cycles, scooters, quad bikes, cars, and boats. You can easily explore some of the other towns on Brac island or hop over to Hvar, a major destination in its own right on the island facing Bol. A day trip to Split is highly recommended, to explore the fascinating architecture or just go shopping.

Chapter 69

Milna 69.1.1 By boat

Milna is a small town on the island of Brac.

Theferries to theisland areoperated by Jadrolinia. While there is no car ferry directly to Milna, car ferries arrive to Supetar from Split and to Sumartin from Makarska. Additionally, a passenger catamaran connects Milna with Split and Hvar (one connection daily in the main summer season).

69.2 Get around As Milna is a rather smallplace, you can walk everywhere on foot. For more distant trips it is possible to rent a car, a scooter or a mountain bike: •

Car rental eRentaCar, Milna, Riva bb, ☎ +358 99 3000 131. During the main tourist season in summer it is recommended to book in advance.

69.3 See A small old town with the harbor, which is quite big for a town that small. Lots of stone. The harbor is also where it is where all is happening. Church and the Port of Milna

69.1 Get in Buses run several times a day from Supetar, the village where the ferry docks. Unfortunately, they stop in the late afternoon or early evening -- even in summer!, so you must rent a scooter or car, or take a taxi.

Milna

69.4 Do

A car rental will let you explore the island and reach idyllic beaches. 207

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Relax at the harbor

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CHAPTER 69. MILNA

Go to nearby beaches. It is worth walking for the beach out of town, beyond the Marina. It is also possible to relax in the shadow of pine trees there. Further on, where the dirt road replaces the asphalt one, the beach becomes more rocky and wild. Nice beaches are also south of Milna, for example in 1 Osibova bay. Hike or cycle along the shore or inland on small roads between the olive groves

•

Visit the small galleries

•

Walk through the old streets of this village

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Take beautiful photos of old stone houses, sky and sea

•

Listen to music on summer evenings

•

Large international 1 marina attracts boaters.

69.5 Buy Vino, port wine, Karlovacko, fresh fish and the best cafe lattes East of Italy! Fresh produce market daily. Home made wine and brandy.

69.6 Eat •

1 Restaurant Plaza. 8:00-23:00. As a part of the Illyrian apartment resort, the restaurant’s terrace is located directly at the beach shaded by a pine forest. Breakfasts, lunches and dinners in the Mediterranean style (including tasty pizza) are offered by friendly staff.

69.7 Drink 69.8 Sleep For renting of a local apartments you can contact the local tourist information or some of the locals rent out their apartments in the summer. •

Serenity Retreat. Glorious harbor views from gorgeous stone apartments on hill in old town; terraces; barbeque; garden. 30 seconds from the harbour. Milna-born host.


Chapter 70

Supetar Supetar is the main city of the island of Brač, Croatia. This lively town with 3062 people living in it is famous for its architecture, past and cultural tradition. Due to its long, beautiful gravel and sand beaches surrounded with pine woods, and for its crystal blue sea it has acquired a reputation as a wonderful bathing resort.

•

70.1 Get in There’s a ferry from Split which takes approx 50 min. In July and August there are 14 departures per day in each direction, while in winter there are fewer. •

Speed taxi boat service 0-24h +385 98 702 250. Adriatic-Express

Restaurant Jastog, Bana Josipa Jelacica 7, +385 21 631 486

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Restaurant Vrilo, Hrv.velikana bb

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Tavern Vinotoka, Ignjata Joba 6, +385 21 630 969

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Tavern Lukin, Porat 32, +385 21 630 683

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Bistro Palute, Porat 4, +385 21 631 730

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Pizzeria Roso, Put Vela luke bb, +385 21 630 352

•

Pizzeria Mario, Porat bb, +385 21 631 155

•

Cheapest snack: burek from one of the bakeries.

70.7 Drink •

70.2 Get around

•

The city itself is very compact and can be explored entirely on foot.

•

•

70.3 See

•

Caffe-bar Barbara, Porat 17, +385 98 225 321 Caffe-bar Ben Quick, Vlacica 19, +385 21 630 541 Caffe-bar Mondo, Put Vele Luke bb, +385 98 9520 493 XXL Club, Put Vele Luke bb Mistiq Disco Club, Put Vele Luke bb, +385 21 631 011

70.4 Do 70.8 Sleep

Bathe in the beautiful sea!

•

70.5 Buy Supetar has many souvenir shops, a large Lidl supermarket and several smaller general stores. •

70.6 Eat •

Restaurant Punta, Punta 1, +385 21 631 507 209

Villa Kuzmanic, ☎ +385 21 394449, e-mail: [email protected]. Apartments 500m from the centre for 4, 5 and 6 persons, newly decorated, with SAT-TV, air condition, washing machine and barbecue. Two bedrooms, terrace and secured parking place. Apartment Barhanovic, ☎ +385 21 631464. House is within only 5-10 minutes walking distance from the town center, shops, restaurants and beaches. The apartment is located on the ground floor with 2 double bedrooms, kitchen, dining area,

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living area and bathroom providing accommodation for up to 4 people. Hostels •

Funky Donkey Hostel, Polanda 20, ☎ +385 21 630937, e-mail: [email protected]. Check-in: 15.00, check-out: 12.00. Less than 10 minutes away from the main ferry port. Free WiFi, free Internet access, no lockout, 24 hour access, backpack sized lockers, terraces, BBQ area, kitchen facilities, flat screen TV with a large collection of movies, large common room and only 5 minute walk to Lidl supermarket.


Chapter 71

Kvarner Kvarner and Highlands is a region of Croatia including the seashore and highlands north of Dalmatia and connects Istria with the rest of Croatia.

71.1 Regions

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Cres

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Krk

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Rab

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Pag – A popular for its beaches destination

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Lošinj

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Unije

71.2 Cities •

•

•

Rijeka - the largest city and port in Kvarner Opatija - just west of Rijeka, a former playground of the rich and famous with old, boutique hotels and concrete beaches Crikvenica - a small fishermans town in the area of the old roman military station Ad Turres

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Baška - town on Krk island

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Mali Losinj - town on Losinj island

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Senj — town on Adriatic coast

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Delnice - central town of Gorski kotar (Highlands)

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Fužine - tourist town in Gorski kotar (Highlands)

71.3 Other destinations National parks: •

Gulf of Kvarner and islands

The Kvarner (Primorje-Gorski Kotar County) is divided into two regions - the mainland area (focusing on Rijeka), and the islands located within the Gulf of Kvarner. •

Gorski Kotar Highlands with Delnice as center of highlands.

Islands:


71.4 Understand 71.5 Talk Croatian. Italian and German may be understood due to close proximity to these countries and the high level of visitors in summer months.

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212

71.6 Get in All forms of transport meet in Rijeka. Trains operate from Zagreb, Ljubljana, Vienna, Munich and Budapest daily to Rijeka. There is a large bus terminal to domestic and international destinations such as Dubrovnik, Split, Trieste, Belgrade and Sarajevo. International ferry services operate to Bari in Italy via Split, Korcula and Dubrovnik. Highways also connect in Rijeka heading North (towards Slovenia), west (towards Istria) and east (towards Zagreb). There is an international airport located on the island of Krk which operates primarily in the summer months.

71.7 Get around 71.8 See 71.9 Do 71.10 Eat 71.11 Drink 71.12 Stay safe 71.13 Go next

CHAPTER 71. KVARNER

Chapter 72

Mali Losinj Mali Lošinj is a town on the island of Lošinj, Croatia. Despite its name it’s the biggest town on the island.

72.1 Understand 72.2 Get in 72.3 Get around 72.4 See 72.5 Do 72.6 Eat 72.7 Drink 72.8 Sleep •

Youth Hostel Veli Lošinj, Kaciol 4, 51551 Veli Lošinj (behind restaurant Mozart in the harbour ), ☎ +385 51 236 234. Check-out: 10am. The only Hostelling International hostel on the island. It is located in Veli Lošinj, a 10 minutes busride from Mali Lošinj (where ferries and catamarans reach the island). Friendly staff. Price includes breakfast. Free internet.

72.9 Stay safe 72.10 Go next

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Chapter 73

Rab Rab (Italian Arbe) is an island and a town of the same name in Kvarner.

73.1 Understand Rab is just off the northern coast of Croatia in the Adriatic Sea, today in the Primorje-Gorski Kotar county. The island was the frontier between Liburnia and Dalmatia. Rab is one of the most popular islands in the north Adria, with the town as beautiful as Dubrovnik, andgreen woods as in NP Mljet. After Opatija, Rab was one of the first vacation and wellness oases in the Kvarner archipelago region, also known as the pioneer of the nudism. Rab offers everything necessary for a great holiday -- friendly people, good facilities, nice climate and great beaches.

73.2 Get in By ferry Rab can be accessed by ferry from Valbiska on island Krk Church of Saint Christopher and from Stinica near Jablanac on mainland.

73.5 Do

By plane European Coastal Airlines drive few hydroplane connections with Rab from Rijeka, Zadar, Split and Mali Lošinj. Schedule. By Bus Direct bus line from Rijeka trough Senj is connecting island Rab with mainland.


Old Town, Rab Town, ☎ 771064. 3. 0.

Lopar beach

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73.6 Eat 73.7 73 .7 Dri Drink 73.8 73.8 Sta Stay safe safe 73.9 73 .9 Go ne next xt

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Chapter 74

Rijeka (literall allyy “Rive “River”) r”) is a city city in Kvarner Bay, Bay, a northnorthRijeka (liter ern inlet of the Adriatic Sea in Croatia in Croatia.. It is the principal principal seaport of the country. It has 128,735 inhabitants inhabitants (2011) with the greater city area reaching up to 200,000, and is Croatia's Croatia 's third largest city.

which saved most of the survivors from the Titanic , was heading from New York to Rijeka, and most of the crew on the ship was Croatia Croatian. n. Thanks Thanks to that, one of lifelifebelts from the Titanic is preserved in the Rijeka Naval Museum. Unfortunately, Rijeka was also the first fascist state in the world, before before Mussolini’s Italy or Hitler’s Reich. Reich. A mixture of fascism, fascism, anarchism and elements elements or dadaism was the basis for the constitution of Reggenza Italiana del Carnaro (Italian Regency of Kvarner), short lived state created in 1919, after a coup d'etat of Italian war veterans led by Gabriele D'Annunzio, often called the pioneer of fascism. To make it more awkward, this unusual state was the first international state that recognized Lenin’s USSR.

74.1 74.1 Un Unde ders rstan tandd

On the bright side, from 1920 to 1924, Rijeka was an independ independent ent neutral neutral state. A status very similar similar to the later later status status of Gdansk provided provided Rijeka Rijeka with independence independence and neutrality. The official language in the Free State of Rijeka Rijeka were Croatian, Italian and Hungarian, in order to provide maximum care for all minorities in the city.

Panorama of Rijeka with river Rječina

The city of Rijeka is a unique cosmopolitan city with a very turbulent history, especially during the 20th century. For instance instance,, Rijek Rijekaa was ruled ruled by eight eight diff differe erent nt countrie countriess between 1918 and 1991, so theoretically, a citizen of Rijeka jeka born born in 1917 1917 coul couldd have have had eigh eightt diff differ erent ent passp passport ortss without ever ever leaving the city limits. Such rapid changes changes of events led to a strong local identity for the city. Rijeka is a major Croatian port, in the very heart of Kvarner Kvarner Gulf. Because of its location, Rijeka Rijeka is a crossroads of land and sea routes, connected with the rest of the world by air, bus, train and ship lines. Despite often often being described as a predominantly industrial and port city, Rijeka is an interesting city with beautiful architecture of mostly secession style, a good choice of museums and quality night-life.

Square on the bridge over the river Rječina

Woodrow Wilson, President of United States, recommended Rijeka in 1919 as a head of the League of Nations. tions. After After Second Second World orld War, Rije Rijeka ka was was one one of candicandiIn the beginning of the 20th century, Rijeka was one of dates for hosting the headquarters of the United Nations. the main European ports and had weekly passenger ser- The idea was to reintroduce Independent State of Rijeka vice to and from New York. The famous ship Carpathia , as a special United Nations neutral state. 216

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Modern Rijeka is actually made from two original cities that were separated by river Rječina. On the west was Fiume or Rije Rijeka ka and on the east east Sušak, Sušak, the riva rivall count counterp erpart art of Rijeka mostly inhabited by Croatians and most of the 19th and early 20th century under Yugoslavian or Croatian administrative rule. Those two cities were merged in 1945. To symboli symbolicall callyy connect connect the city, city, a wid widee pedestri pedestrian an bridge was built in front of Hotel Kontinental which was turned into a square. Most of the people are not aware aware that there is actually a river river under this wide square. It is popular place for meeting and socializing, especially for the younger generations. With coming to Rijeka, you are joining to the list of people together with Che Guevara, James Joyce, Franz Liszt, Dora Maar, Enrico Caruso, Benito Mussolini, Gabriele D'Annunzio, Josip Jelačić, Bobby Fischer, Saddam Husein, Gamal Abdel Nasser, Johnny Weissmueller, Pope John Paul II and many others that have been in Rijeka before.

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Air Baltic connects Baltic connects Rijeka with Riga with Riga,, Copenhagen Copenhagen,, Moscow and Moscow and Helsinki Helsinki..

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Air Berlin connects Berlin connects Rijeka to Berlin to Berlin..

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Arkia connects Arkia connects Rijeka to Tel to Tel Aviv. Aviv.

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Croatia Airlines connects Rijeka to London and Munich.. Munich Czech Airlines connects Airlines connects Rijeka with Kosice with Kosice.. Germanwings connec connects ts Rijek Rijekaa with Hamburg, Hamburg, Bonn//Cologne Bonn Cologne,, Berlin Berlin,, Stuttgart Stuttgart and and Dusseldorf Dusseldorf..

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Sky Work connects Work connects Rijeka with Bern with Bern..

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Nordic Aviation Group connects Group connects Rijeka to Tallinn to Tallinn..

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Norwegian connects Norwegian connects Rijeka with Oslo with Oslo..

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Ryanair connects Ryanair connects Rijeka to Stockholm to Stockholm,, London London and and Charleroi.. Charleroi Trade Air connects connects Rijeka Rijeka to Split, Split, Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik, Osijek and Osijek and Zagreb Zagreb..

Bus shuttle from Rijeka Airport to city is operated by Autotrans.. Price for Autotrans for a ride from Rijeka Rijeka to Airport is 50 kn. See schedule schedule here here.. There are regular bus services from Rijeka into Zagreb Airport for connections there. The Croatia Airlines website has more information. Rijeka Rijeka airport terminal

74.2 74 .2 Get Get in 74.2 74.2.1 .1 By car car Travellers heading from Zagreb from Zagreb (185 (185 km) should take the A1 to Bosi Bosilljevo jevo and and then then tak take the the A6 to Rije Rijeka ka.. The The A6 is a 4-6 lane motorway over hilly terrain with many tunnels, bridges and viaducts. Travellers from Trieste from Trieste (76 (76 km) should take A7 upon entering Croatia tering Croatia at at Pasjak or Rupa border crossing. Travellers Travellers from from Split (380km)cantakeA1to Žuta ŽutaLok Lokva va and then proceed via Senj via Senj and and Crikvenica Crikvenica to to Rijeka, or A1 north to Bosiljevo and then A6 to Rijeka.

74.2.2 74.2.2 By pla plane ne Rijeka airport is airport is situated on the nearby island of Krk, around 35 km from the Rijeka city center.

From Airport Rijeka to city it is possible to come with official Rijeka Rijeka Airport Taxi Transfer Transfer Service. All information you can take on the official the official website. website .

74.2.3 74.2.3 By train train Rijeka has been an important railhead since its early days as one of the major ports of the Austro-Hungarian the Austro-Hungarian Empire,, and is connected with direct services to capital of pire Croatia,, (Zagreb Croatia Zagreb,, from where you can take direct trains to other other major major citi cities es in Croati Croatia. a. The There re are also also twice twice daily daily services to Ljubljana to Ljubljana in in Slovenia Slovenia,, with evening train continuing to Munich to Munich and and one train via Zagreb each day to Budapest.. During the summer Budapest summer there is also connecti connection on to Budapest to Budapest trough trough Ljubljana Ljubljana.. Services to Pula to Pula by by train are possible, though as the two cities are not connected in Croatia by rail (the connection is now in Slovenia), a designated bus is timed to take you that part of the journey. There are no direct connection to southern Croatia, but it is possible to get to Split From Rijeka with changing the train in Ogulin in Ogulin.. Journey is long long (around 11 hours) but since there is possibility possibility for overnight overnight train, it is not bad opti option on as well well.. It is poss possib ible le to trav travel el to Pula Pula by trai train, n, with with a bus connection from train station to Lupoglav, from where you take a train to Pula to Pula.. Bus is provided by by Croatian Railways and you need to buy just one ticket.

218 The Railw Railway ay stati station on is in Kreš Krešimi imiro rova va Stree Street, t, at the northnorthern edge of the town area. It is 5 minutes’ walk from from bus station. Information Information on rail services is available available on the information counter, or on the telephone +385 60 33344-44. You can buy tickets tickets or make reservations reservations at the station ticket-office ticket-office (+385 51 21-33-33). The railway railway station has a luggage lockers open from 9AM to 9PM, ans is charged 15 kn. There is also a tourism information office in the station building, but is open odd hours - although there is a large map at the front of the station building. There is also an ATM at the station. The Croatian Railways website website contains contains good information tion on train train times times andprices, andprices, andthere andthere is also also some some inforinformation for travel Rijeka-Ljubl Rijeka-Ljubljana jana on the Slovenian the Slovenian Railways site. ways site.

74.2 74.2.4 .4 By bus bus Rijeka is connected by bus with bigger cities in Croatia in Croatia,, Slovenia,, Italy Slovenia Italy and and elsewhere in Europe Europe.. The busy busy bus terminal is in the city center at the foot of the imposing Capuchin church, church, on Trg Žabica. You can find good information on timetable and fares at the Autotrans the Autotrans website website or in their office (which also sells tickets), at Žabica 1 or by telephone telephone +385 (0)60 30-20-10. Tickets Tickets purchased purchased through company’s website company’s website are are 5% cheaper. cheaper. There is a left-luggage office next to the newspaper and cigarette stand, open from 5:30AM till 10:30PM (the latest of all the transport modes in Rijeka). Rijeka). Luggage safekee safekeeping ping is charged 9 kn. Eurobusways operates a direct BudapestRijeka Bus Rijeka Bus line.

74.2.5 74.2.5 By ship ship As one of the largest ports of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and the largest port in Croatia, ships play an important role in the life of Rijeka.

CHAPTER CHAPTER 74. RIJEKA RIJEKA

74.3.2 74.3.2 By public public transpo transport rt For those that are further away from the city or tired, an efficient local bus network operates operating in a singledirection, direction, circular circular movement movement around the the central city area, and fanning fanning out in all direction directions. s. Buses Buses #2 and #8, to Trsat, Trsat, arepr are proba obabl blyy themos the mostt usef useful for touris tourists, ts, anda and a good good alternative alternative to the 561 stair climb to the top of the hill.

74.3.3 74.3.3 By Ta Taxi xi Rijeka has a cheap and well organized Taxi service, they will get you anywhere in the city for approximately €10 or less. In the centre of the town there are three three taxi terminals, at the Bus station, tel. +385 51 335 138; in the Matije Gupca Street, tel. +385 51 335 417, at the railway station, tel. +385 51 332 893 and there is also a taxi van available. •

Taxi Rijeka tel: Rijeka tel: +385 91 516 5236

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Taxi Cammeo tel: +385 51 313 313

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Taxi Adria tel. +385 51 301 301

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tel. +385 91 11 555 60 VIP car service service tel. JAM Transfer. Transfer. Taxi usually comes within 10 to 15 minutes from the call except in busy summer season where it depends on how much business they have. Online booking available.

74.4 74 .4 Talk Besides Croatian Besides Croatian,, Italian Italian is is de facto semi-official and featured on many signs in the city. Most natives of Rijeka unders understan tandd it well well andsom and somee spea speakk it fluentl fluently. y. Olde Olderr nativ nativee citizens speak their own dialect of Italian language - Fiumani , named after the Italian name for the city - Fiume. Fiume. English is widely understood and spoken by younger people and hotel/restaurant hotel/restaurant staff. Some people people also know some German some German..

Of best use to travellers from Rijeka is the Jadrolinija the Jadrolinija ferry ferry service. The state-owned company company operates small fast vessels to the nearby islands. Until 20133. there was as well large car-carrying ferries down the Adriatic Coast to Split to Split and and Dubrovnik Dubrovnik,, but they were canceled. Possible reintroduction reintroduction of the line is for summer 2016. The pas- 74.5 See senger senger termin terminal al is in the city city cente center, r, and on the water waterffront ront just near the Jadrolinija Jadrolinija office building (where one buys The best way to see Rijeka’s Cultural and historical montickets on the ground floor) is a left-luggage office. uments is to follow the tourist path that gathers all of the most important sights for this town and its history. Most of them are accessible by foot, as they are mostly located in or near the city centre, but to see Trsat Castle you will 74.3 74 .3 Get Get arou around nd need to take a short car/bus ride. Other option, the more adventurous one, is to climb 561 Trsat stairs that lead 74.3.1 74.3.1 By foot from rom city city centr centree to Trsat. Trsat. TheTrs The Trsat at Castle Castleis is worth worth the efeffort. fort. Also, Also, a helpf helpful ul travel travel companio companionn is free free AdriaGuide Most of Rijeka is accessible on foot, and traffic is actually actual ly Rijeka mobile application, application, for smart phones and GPS banned on Korzo in the heart of the city. navigation.

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Lourdes and Lourdes and many other interesting places visit the pages of Rijeka of Rijeka Tourist Board. Board.

Yellow Yellow cock on city tower and palace Wohinz on Korzo Korzo street

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Trsat Castle represents Castle represents a strategically embossed gazeb gazeboo on a hill hill 138me 138 meter terss abov abovee sea sea leve levell that that domdominates inates Rijek Rijeka. a. As a parochia parochiall centre it was mentioned tioned for the first first time in 1288. Trsat Trsat Castle is one one of theol the olde dest st fortifi ortifica cati tions onson on theCro the Croati atian an Coast, Coast, where the characteristics of the early medieval town construction have been preserved. Today Trsat Castle, beside the souvenir shop and the coffee shop, is enric enriched hedwi with th new new facili acilitie tiess – galle gallery ry spac spacee whereart whereart exhib exhibiti itions ons are held held as well well as open-a open-air ir summe summerr conconcerts and theatre performances, fashion shows and literary evenings. symbol ol of Rije Rijeka ka and a good good examp example le City Tower Tower,, a symb of a typical round tower access-point, which leads into the fortified town. Today it dominates dominates the central part of Korzo and is often used as a meeting place for local people.

Theatre of Ivan pl. Zajc

Rijeka ka is a city city Museums, collections collections and exhibitions exhibitions – Rije with an unusual, turbulent turbulent past. The best places places to discover the whole story on Rijeka are its museums, among its rich collections and exhibitions. •

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The Our Lady of Trsat Sanctuary is Sanctuary is the largest centr centree of pilgri pilgrima mage ge in weste western rn Croati Croatia. a. It is famous amous for its numer numerous ous conc concess essio ions ns and for the pilgr pilgrima image gess by numerous believers believers throughout the year, and especially on the Assumption of Mary holiday. No supermarket can replace the charm of the personal contact with the vendor or the excitement of the unpredic unpredictabl tablee purchase purchaseat at the mainCity main Citymark market et – Placa. Placa. The harmonious compound of two pavilions and a Fish market building where, in the morning hours, the real Rijeka can be experienced. Torpedo – launching ramp The ramp The launching ramp from 1930s is an item belonging to the closed torpedo production production factory. factory. It is proof of the technical inventive of Rijeka during this period and at the same time is an important world landmark of industrial heritage. For other cultural and historical historical monuments of Rijeka such as The as The Governo Governor’s r’s Palace, Palace, St. Vitus Vitus Cathedral, Molo Longo, The Old Gateway or Roman Arch, Capuchin church of Our Lady of

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Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral Located Littoral Located in the beautiful Governor’s Palace building, it preserves a large part of Rijeka’s history and maritime tradition. Besides Besides its continuous ethnographic exhibition, visit our collection of furniture and portraits of people from Rijeka’s public life. Besides the botanical Natural History Museum. Museum. Besides garden, the museum is a multimedia multimedia centre with an aquarium containing species from the Adriatic Sea. Besides fish, sharks and sea rays, the museum also conserves species of insects, reptiles, birds and amphibians. phibians. Ideal entertainment entertainment for both children and adults. Rijeka Rijeka City Museum The Museum The museum includes eleven collecti collections: ons: fine arts, arts & crafts, crafts, numisma numismatic tics, s, valuable objects, medals, arms from the Second World War and from the Croatian War of Independence, a collection of theatre and film material, philately, photography, press and technical collections. Modern and Contemporary Art Museum. Museum. The museum collects works of art by Rijeka artists from 19th century and both Croatian and foreign artists from 20th and 21st centuries. Peek & Poke - “Museum” of old computers. computers. In this continuous exhibition over 1000 expositions are exhibited from around the world and from Croatian computer history. Located L ocated in an area of three hundred square meters, in the centre of Rijeka it is the largest exhibition exhibition of its kind in this t his part of Europe.

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The St. Vitus Cathedral Sacral Collection The collection is located in an attractive location, in a gallery above the internal part and above the church’s altar, whilst the thesaurus is located in the atrium of the Cathedral’s locale. The sacral “Jesuits’ heritage” collection includes some very rare exponents. Thesaurus and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat’s Sanctuary. The monastery treasury holds works of extraordinary esthetic and material value, paintings, reliquaries, lamps, chalices, ecclesiastical robes, while the Chapel of Votive Gifts houses gifts dating from the 19th century up to date.

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Theatres Should you wish to go to the theatre, you can choose from those suitable for adults or for children, go either at the Croatian National theatre or at one of Rijeka’s smaller independent theatres. When it comes to cinema], no-one can dispute taste – in Rijeka you can find art cinema and multiplex. For those who like to be active while they travel and maybe want to shed a bit of sweat here are a few recommendations: •

Memorial Library and the Mažuranić-BrlićRužić Collection. The library and MažuranićBrlić-Ružić collection are located at Pećine, in Rijeka inside the villa of the famous Rijeka’s family, Ružić.

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Permanent Glagolitic Alphabet Exhibition. A permanent exhibition has been collocated in the Rijeka University Library known as “Glagoljica” in which theGlagolitic written and printed heritage has been presented, especially that of the north Adriatic area where the first Croatian (Glagolitic) books were printed.

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If you miss the adrenaline, some ten kilometers from Rijeka is an auto-moto track Grobnik where you can try your riding skills or watch how the professionals do it. Diving around the coast of Rijeka. The Adriatic has one of the most indented coasts in Europe and its northern part is especially attractive for divers who like to dive on the underwater cliffs. The area offers various diving conditions both for beginners and for advanced divers. Besides the extremely clear sea and wealth of underwater life, underwater cliffs with gorgonian corals and caves can be found here as well as ship wrecks.

For nature lovers, the ones that like to walk, watch the stars or just lie on the beach, there are many places to indulge in such activities: •

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Korzo, main pedestrian street in Rijeka

Kantrida pools. Complex of five newly furnished pools, located by the sea with an amazing view over the nearby islands and Istria.

Astronomical Centre Rijeka. Learn about the stars in this unique astronomy centre both in Croatia and abroad. Besides sky objects, fromSvetiKriž hill, where it is located, a beautiful view extends over the Rijeka Bay and mountain hinterland. Rijeka’s beaches. Rijeka has the beach for everyone’s taste and thanks to the Mediterranean climate, the bathing season begins in spring and lasts until late autumn. With regard to the city location, Rijeka’s beaches are located to the far east and to the far western parts of the city, and you can choose your favorite – large and noisy or small and secluded, pebbly, concrete, rocky, hidden... City buses drive to all beaches and there is free car parking close to all of them. Parks and promenades. Nature lovers and more active visitors can discover the city in a different way – by researching Rijeka’s promenades bythesea, urban or forest areas, andfor those less active, parks are the best option for taking a break during a walk around Rijeka.

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Rijeka’s mainmarket – Placa No supermarket can replace the charm of the personal contact with the vendor or the excitement of the unpredictable purchase at the main Rijeka market – Placa. The harmonious compoundof two pavilions and a Fish market building where, in the morning hours, the real Rijeka can be experienced. Shopping in the city centre – most shops are open from 8am until 8pm, Saturdays and Sundays usually until 1pm. There are several 24/7 stores, and if you need cigarettes or newspapers after 8pm they can be bought at the kiosk that works all night, at the main bus station, Žabica. You can purchase all that you need in one of the larger commercial centers in Rijeka, the biggest one is Tower Center Rijeka, while Zapadni Trgovački Centar is the newest. Souvenir shops – authentic souvenirs canbe bought at the Tourist Information Centre, two Rijeka’s galleries that have received the “Authentic from Rijeka” and “Special quality” labels – Mala galerija Bruketa and Galerija Art, Zeleno i plavo (Green and Blue) – autochthonous products shop, La Mamma Delicije on Trsat, and Bazilisk Souvenir Shop located in the very centre of Trsat Castle. Rijeka also has an online souvenir web shop.

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Restaurants. There are numerous restaurants offering domestic and international food. Try some of their local fish specialties and also meat and vegetarian dishes as well as exotic specialties. If you didn’t walk into one of the more exclusive restraints in Rijeka, such as Zlatna školjka, Kamov or Municipium, you will find the prices to be mostly moderate. Taverns. Experience the relaxed atmosphere of Rijeka’s taverns which in a typical local environment will offer you their specialties at moderate prices. Pizzerias and fast food - there are also many fastfood restaurants, some of them open 24 hours, such as Žabica on the main bus station Žabica and Food City on the Korzo promenade.

74.9 Drink Wherever you go in Rijeka, you will find a place to drink andrelax. There arehundreds of bars andcafes across the city. There are three ships docked in the harbor (city center) with bars, casino, and a night club – Arca Fiumana, Marina club and Club Nina2.

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Club Palach One of the oldest clubs in Rijeka, with 3 bars, 4 floors, one small free cinema room, gallery for young artists and comic book store, it’s also one of the most interesting cafés/clubs in Rijeka. Stereo dvorana The centre of Rijeka’s urban culture. The program includes andbonds urban life and multiculturalism with maybe the best conditions in Croatia for concerts and events. Café bar Karolina – a coffee bar located by the sea with a large terrace and a view of the boats in the Port of Rijeka. In the evening hours coffee drinking is replaced by music and dancing. Cukarikafe bar – works with the same intensity during the day and during the evening. It is special for its creative furnishings, relaxing music and atmosphere which also moves on two terraces during the warmer weather. Pepe Rosso Bar is a tavern, but not a totally conventional one with tango and salsa nights, a variety of promotions – from wine to books, exhibitionsand performances, entertainment with DJs or live music. Café bar Nad urom is located on the last floor of the Korzo shopping centre, with a view over Rijeka’s rooftops and the Korzo, during the day offers refreshments and relaxation after shopping and during the weekend there is live music. complete list of coffee shops and clubs. The in Rijeka can be found on Rijeka Tourist Board web page.

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Rijeka Youth Hostel. Is located around a hundred meters from the sea, in one of the most beautiful locations of the city, at Pećine, just 5 minutes by bus from the city centre (it will take you 15 minutes on foot). Lounge Hostel Carnevale. A modernly furnished hostel located in Jadranski Square, in the centre of the city of Rijeka, the very heart of the pedestrian zone on the Korzo, the city’s main promenade. Hostel Aston Located at Rijeka’s bus station itself and is only one minute’s walk away from the main Korzo promenade. All rooms have a view over the Capuchin Church and close by are all important facilities and a large number of night clubs. Hostel Ana. Can be found in the very heart of Rijeka, on the waterfront in the port.

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Kantrida hostelery is located 5 kilometers from the centre of Rijeka, on the main road leading to Opatija. It belongs to the semi-opened category type. It is mainly used by the employees and subcontractors of the 3. Maj shipyard and vacant rooms are also offered to passers-by.

Korčula, and Bari in Italy. Since there are rumors to reintroduce this line in 2016, keep in mind this wonderful option for trans-Croatian coastline journey. Journey time was up to twenty hours, so getting a cabin is highly recommended. On the boat, the restaurant serves up somedecent food at surprisingly reasonable prices, but bear in mind that the 23% tax is not included on the menu. There is nothing in the way of entertainment, so bring some entertaining company or a good book.

Campsite Preluk. Is situated in a small pine and laurel forest next to the sea and a pebbly beach. It is in Preluk, serviced by bus no. 32 which goes to Opatija and is 2 km. from thecentre of Opatija. The capacity of the camp is for 500 people. •


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GrandHotel Bonavia. The 125 old and completely refurbished 4-star hotel located in the very heart of Rijeka. First class accommodation consists of 114 air-conditioned rooms, six suites and a presidential suite and has its own car park and garage.

Hotel Continental. A three star hotel built in 1888 with 37 double bedrooms, 1 single bedroom and 4 hotel suits on two floors. All rooms are equipped with a TV and a direct telephone line, while the access to the Internet is possible via modem, using the telephone connection port in the room. A complete warm breakfast in included in the price of approximately 400 HRK (€57) per night for a single. Hotel Neboder. Renovated in 2007, this 14-story hotel is part of the complex of the Croatian Cultural Centre. The best part about the hotel is the amazing view of the eastern part of the Istrian peninsula and Učka, Opatija, Rijeka, the small towns of Kostrena and Kraljevica and the island of Krk.

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Opatija, once the secluded seaside resort of the rich and famous, is just a short 20-minute bus ride along the coast from Rijeka. Bus #32 departs frequently. It is a great place to go swimming. There are many fine restaurants and hotels (both of which seem to be lacking in Rijeka). Try to get a table at Le Mandrac in Volosko harbour, it is one of the finest restaurants in Croatia. Until 2014, there was possibility to travel by Jadrolinija Ferry to Dubrovnik, Split, Stari Grad,

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Best Western Hotel Jadran. Is a four-star establishment located by the sea. It was reopened in December 2005 after thorough reconstruction. It has 66 single and double bedrooms. Every room is airconditioned, and has a satellite TV and radio, direct telephone line, Internet connection, safe and minibar.

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Islands of Rab, Pag, Losinj, Cres, Susak, Unije and Ilovik also can be reached by daily catamarans, which leave Rijeka at afternoon. One-way prices for adults are up to 60 kn, depending on destination.

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Krk (50 kn) Ljubljana, Slovenia (120 kn) Pula (92 kn) Trieste, Italy (60 kn) Zagreb (from 45 kn up to 130 kn) Zadar (180 kn) other Croatian and international destinations.

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Ljubljana, Slovenia Vienna, Austria Zagreb (103 kn).

Chapter 75

Senj Senj is a town with a population of around 8,000 on the Adriatic coast of Kvarner region of Croatia.

book ahead or arrive early to take the shady places. The sea is suitable for swimming and fishing. There is a diving station which offers scuba-diving courses and kayak rental. Small bar with wireless internet (5 EUR) is located in the camp. Price: 2 person + 1 tent + 1 car: appr. 120Kn


75.10 Connect

75.3 Get around

75.11 Go next

75.4 See

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75.5 Do 75.6 Buy 75.7 Eat 75.8 Drink 75.9 Sleep 75.9.1 Camping •

•

Camp Skver is located in the centre of Senj, right next to the coast. Since it’s a coastal location, only non-shady places are available. It comprises a traditional tavern, decorated in the old style of the littoral region, offering national fish specialities. There is a little harbour for small boats and powerboats besides the camp. Price: 2 person + 1 tent + 1 car: appr. 120Kn Camp Ujča. Is positioned 4 kilometers south of Senj on the Adriatic Highway. It is located in a cove with a beach surrounded by beautiful greenery for tents, caravan houses, vans, campers and cars. The camp is rather small, holds 45 camping positions, so 223

Plitvice National Park is about 100 km away, that is about 2 hours of driving.

Chapter 76

Cres Cres is a Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea.

76.4 Get in

76.1 Towns

Cres can be reached by Jadrolinija’s car ferry from the island of Krk (Valbiska-Merag route) or from the Istrian peninsula (Brestova-Porozina route).

From north to south:

For the sake of orientation, here are some rough distances for those who prefer coming by car:

•

Beli

•

Cres

•

Lubenice

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Osor

Braislava - 520 km, Budapest - 530 km, Ljubljana - 165 km, Milano - 520 km, Munich - 560 km, Prague - 860 km, Vienna - 555 km, Zagreb - 185 km Losinj island, which is road-connected to Cres island at Osor town, has an airport.

76.5 Get around The island is really hilly which means the roads are curvy and sometimes as narrow as one path. If driving, be prepared for slow traffic and careful maneuvers on the serpentines.

76.2 Understand The island of Cres is the biggest island in the Adriatic and is located in the northern part of the Gulf of Kvarner. Its southern part is connected to the island of Lošinj by a trestle bridge. Cres is a hilly island, 66 km long and ranging in width from 2 to 12 km. The island’s coastline, 248 km long, is indented; its western and southern parts have a plenty of bays and pebbly beaches while the northern and eastern parts are characterized by steep and rough rocks. The fresh water lake of Vrana deserves attention as an unusual natural phenomenon. It is one of the deepest fresh water lakes in Eastern Europe, going down 76 meters at its deepest point (below sea-level!). It supplies drinking water for the populations of Cres and Lošinj islands. Therefore, it is very highly guarded and illegal to swim and fish in.

A massive work effort is taking place on the main road, it is being widened and is being brought further away from the cliffs, the road is also cutting out dangerous turns and other threats to drivers. It is also keeping trucks and cars away from Lake Vrana, to keep it clean.

76.6 See •

Lambs, griffon vulture.

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Beli

76.7 Do

76.3 Talk

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Watersports.

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Scuba diving.

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Croatian 224

Hiking - there are designated hiking routes starting from Eko-centar in Beli.

76.12. GO NEXT

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Cycling - Cres is renowned for the demanding upsand-downs.

76.8 Eat Seafood, lamb, olive oil, cherries.


Apartments Erdelja, Melin II 31, Cres, HR 51557, ☎ +385-51-571328. The apartment house Apartmani Erdelja is located next to a pine grove on the beach and is a ten-minute walk from the old centre of Cres. You can enjoy the relaxed atmosphere of the cosy house, spend time on the beautiful terraces or have a barbecue in the garden. Between 14€ and 27€ per person per night, depending on the season.

76.11 Stay safe 76.12 Go next

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Chapter 77

Beli Beli is a village in Cres island.

Eko Centar Caput Insulae works the integral protection of Eurasian Griffon Vultures, organizes exhibitions and organizes eco-tourism programmes. They offer seven hiking routes around Beli.

77.1 Understand Beli is one of the oldest settlements on Cres which used to play a prominent role in the past. A settlement organised like an acropolis, Beli is situated on a 130m high hill above the north-eastern coast of the island, on the site of a prehistoric hill-fort. Today it is a closely-built village with narrow stone-clad streets.

77.6 Buy 77.7 Eat There are two restaurants in Beli

77.2 Get in

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From the main road of Cres island there is a 7 km long narrow curvy road leading to Beli, sometimes as narrow as one path. If driving, be prepared for slow traffic and careful maneuvers on the serpentines. Excursion boats arrive at the port of Beli.

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Restaurant Tramontana is located on top of the hill, in the Pansion. Restaurant “Beli”. Is located at the corner where the road starts down to the beach. It offers domestic food.

77.8 Drink

77.3 Get around

The buffet at the beach offers drinks, sandwiches and icecream until late.

The port of Beli, the beach and the camping is located at the bottom of the hill of Beli. It can be reached with a few minutes drive (good brakes are essential for this road!) or 10–15 minutes walk.

77.9 Sleep Many rooms and apartments are available for rent: more in the village on the hill-top and a few also next to the beach.

77.4 See The village has a wonderful setting on the top of the hill. Narrow streets, small houses give it a real Mediterranean feel.

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Pansion Tramontana http://www.beli-tramontana. com/ It has a restaurant. Guest house http://www.cres-beli.com/

77.5 Do

77.9.1 Camping Brajdi

Watersports.

One-star but cozy camping, small in size so ideal for families.Located right next to thebeach. Verybasic shop, and a buffet nearby.

Scubadiving. http://www.diving-beli.com/

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77.11. GO NEXT

77.10 Connect 77.10.1 Post Beli hasa Post Office opening Mon-Fri 9-12AM. Stamps, phonecards etc.

77.11 Go next

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Chapter 78

Krk Krk is a Croatian island in the Adriatic Sea.

is a petrochemical plant and natural gas storages, near the city of Omišalj, while the rest of the island is highly oriented on tourism. Strict environmental measures and a hidden location make industry on the island almost invisible to visitors. And besides, Krk has very clean sea and air.

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Omišalj

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Njivice

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Malinska

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Town Krk

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Punat

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Baška

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Vrbnik

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Dobrinj

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Šilo

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Klimno

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Čižići

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Soline

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Porat

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Vrh

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Glavotok

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Vantačići

Krk has many different landscapes. The north-east part of the island is almost bare because of the strong wind called bura, while thewestern part abounds with greenery and gentle bays. Inland, rocky hills alternate with fertile fields. This sort of relief favorably provides for the cultivation of grapes and the production of the well-known wine Vrbnička Žlahtina . If you can't visit the island Krk during the summer, come in spring or autumn. If the weather is nice, you can have a swim in the sea in June, September and October. There are some brave souls who swim from April to November. Beside swimming, spring and autumn attracts many visitors interested in outdoor activities, since there are beautiful trekking and cycling paths all around the island, with some stunning views of surrounding islands and mountains.

78.3 Talk Croatian is official, but many local people also speak Italian, English and German.

78.4 Get in 78.2 Understand The “golden island”, as the island of Krk has been called since ancient times, is the nearest island to western Europe. It’s not considered an island so much anymore because it has been connected with the mainland since 1980 by a 1400m-long bridge made of reinforced concrete. Krk has approximately 16,500 year round inhabitants in seventy different settlements. Krk is one of rare examples of successful integration of industry with tourism. On the northern part of the island

You can reach Krk by land, sea and by air because there is also an airport (Rijeka airport) which can handle large and small planes. The island doesn't have a railway. The nearest railway station is in Rijeka, only 30 km from Krk. There are daily trains to and from Slovenia with connections to Austria, Germany and Hungary. Rijeka also has daily coach lines which connects all European points such as Munich, Zürich, Trieste, etc. Island Krk has wellindented coast which attracts many sailors, due to many safe bays of the island accessible in your own boat. You can leave your boat during the winter in Marina Punat

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78.8. EAT

or in other marinas offering dry storage. For the sake of 78.8 Eat orientation, here are some rough distances for those who prefer coming by car: Cheese, domestic prosciutto (pršut), seafood, barbecued München ~ 600 km, Wien ~ 500 km, Budapest ~ 600 km, lamb Praha ~ 800 km, Bratislava ~ 600 km, Trieste ~ 100 km, Milano ~ 550 km, Ljubljana ~ 150 km, Zagreb ~ 200 km

78.9 Drink

78.5 Get around 78.5.1 By bus

Domestic vine “Vrbnička žlahtina” •

- great dining in Malinska

There is a bus public transport mostly operated by Autotrans. Connections are more frequent on western 78.10 Stay safe bound cities on the island: Omišalj, Malinska, Njivice and Town Krk. The best way to get around is by car. Krk Krk is very safe place. Besides occasional pickis a diverse island and it is worth exploring. It is possible pocketing, crimes are almost non-existent on the island. to hire a car, kayak, a scooter or a bicycle on the island. If you go inland, be aware of potentially poisonous snakes like viper. Higher boots are advisable.

78.5.2 Hitchhiking Hitchhiking is very easy on island Krk, since most of the people on the island are hitchhiker friendly because of expensive bus ticket and bad connections within the cities. Just standing on the main road which is going trough the island with your thumb up probably will get you ride in no time. More information on Hitchwiki.

78.6 See •

•

In the woods, lovers of nature and hunting can come across the fox, roe-buck, wild cat and marten while there are also some birds like the snipe, wild duck, griffon vulture and several other types. On the island Krk there are several dozen marked tourist paths which lead through the woods and by the sea shore. There are printed guides available at any tourist office. The underwater world around the island of Krk is very interesting, and there are several local and international diving clubs. You can get a diving licence at the local harbor master’s office. You need to present your passport, your diving qualification and pay a fee. To fill bottles you need to contact one of the diving clubs.

78.7 Do •

Of all the summer recreation sports, the most interesting ones are watersports. Those particularly attractive are kite-surfing, paragliding, waterskiing and jet skis.

78.11 Go next

Chapter 79

Baška Baška is situated in the valley of the same name at the very southeast of the island of Krk in Croatia. The bet known feature of the area is its 1800 meters long pebble beach, the longest, and the largest one on part of the Adriatic sea. Of historical and cultural monuments we can mention the church of St. Lucija eith the Bašćanska ploča.

79.1 Get in From the Krk Bridge follow the signposts for Krk town and then for Baska, which is around 45 km from the bridge. If you are driving be careful when passing Obzova, the highest part of the Krk island as the road is very narrow and has very sharp bends.

79.2 Get around 79.3 See 79.4 Do 79.5 Buy 79.6 Eat 79.7 Drink 79.8 Sleep 79.9 Go next

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Chapter 80

Malinska 80.2 80.2.2 .2 By bus bus Autotrans, Rijeka Autotrans, Rijeka based based bus company runs sixteen buses daily from Rijeka to Malinska for 50 kn one way (76 kn return). return). With same buses buses Malinska Malinska is connected connected with other destionations on island Krk as well as Mali as Mali Lošinj and Cres and Cres..

80.2.3 80.2.3 On foot oot Beautiful seaside path from Njivice Njivice to to Malinska called “Rajs “Rajska ka cesta cesta”” is great great way way to come come to Malin Malinsk skaa simpl simplyy by foot. It is one of the t he most popular walking path on whole island Krk. Walk from from Njivice Njivice to Malinska is about 6-7 Adria Hotel in Port of Malinska. km long long andtak and takes es aroundone aroundone andhalf hour. hour. Takeenou Takeenough gh of water with yourself since there are only forest, rocks Malinska is Malinska is a little picturesque town on the north-west and sea on the way. side of the island of Krk of Krk in in Croatia Croatia.. Malinska Malinska abounds abounds in vegetation, coves and beaches which are known by the crystally clear clear adriatic sea. Climatic conditions conditions are 80.3 .3 Get Get arou around nd ideal; for it is protected from a strong winds, especially 80 in winter. Malinska Malinska has mild winters and warm summers and that’s the reason why it has been visited by numerous Malinska Malinska doesn't have any public transport, since city is guests for over a century. small enough that you can get everywhere by foot within half an hour of walking.

80.1 80.1 Un Unde ders rstan tandd Malinska was an old fishing village and port for wood exportation until the beginning of the 20th century, when it started to develop into a tourism destination — first, as a favorite favorite retreat of Viennese nobility nobility and later, as a . The name Malinska Malinska has its origins in the 15th century, and it is rela relate tedd to the the wate waterr-mi mill ll that that was was buil builtt in the the vill villag agee and and was important for the whole island of Krk of Krk..

During the summer months it is possible to rent a bike, scooter or quad bike on Lukobran, place where most of the boats are coming. Price for a half/day renting is 70 kn. Full kn. Full price list . list .

80.4 See 80.5 Do 80.6 Buy

80.2 80 .2 Get Get in 80.2 80.2.1 .1 By car car Over the bridge from Mainland (toll fee).

80.7 Eat 80.8 80 .8 Drink rink 231

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CHAPTER CHAPTER 80. MALINSKA MALINSKA

80.9 80 .9 Slee Sleepp •

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Apartments Novaković, Novaković, Nikole Tesle 20 ( Malin☎ +385 51 859 637. 637. ska), ☎ +385 Apartments Ravlić, Ravlić, Branka Fučića 30 A ( Malin☎ +385 51 859 897. 897. ska), ☎ +385

80.1 80 .100 Go ne nexxt

Chapter 81

Njivice in Croatia.. It was once a small fisherNjivice is Njivice is a town in Croatia men’s village and is now a famous tourist centre today. They have a long tradition of private accommodation. The vegetation extends to the very sea and all the coast is one the large beach.

81.5 Buy 81.6 Eat 81.7 81 .7 Drink rink

81.1 81 .1 Get Get in

81.8 81 .8 Slee Sleepp

81.1 81.1.1 .1 By car car •

Over the bridge from the Mainland (toll fee). •

81.1 81.1.2 .2 By bus bus Autotrans, a Rijeka Autotrans, Rijeka-based -based bus company, runs fourteen buses daily from Rijeka to Njivice for 46 kn one way (82 kn return but if you buy return ticket to Malinska, the price is 76 kn, because of tariff borders). With the same buses Njivice is connected with other destinations on Krk Island as well as Mali as Mali Lošinj and Lošinj and Cres Cres..

Apartmani Kalinić, Gromačine 24, 51512 Njivice, Njivice, Croatia + 385 51 847 147 1 Anna Tours d.o.o. (Croatia Dream Holidays ), Primorska cesta b.b., ☎ +385 51846165, 51846165, e-mail: [email protected].. Check-in: [email protected] Check-in: 14:00, 14:00, chec check-out k-out:: 10:00. Holiday rentals in Croatia. €. (updated Dec 2016)

81.9 81 .9 Gion Giongg out out Caffe bars: Columbo, Dundo

81.1.3 81.1.3 On foot oot The beautiful seaside path from Njivice to Malinska called “Rajska cesta” is a great way to come to Malinska on foot. It is one of the most popular walking paths on Krk. The walk from Njivice Njivice to Malinska Malinska is about 67 km long and takes around around one and half hours. hours. Take Take enough water with yourself since you will pass nothing but forests, rocks and sea on the way.

81.2 81 .2 Get Get arou around nd 81.3 See 81.4 Do Swimming, sunbathing, drinking in the evening evening 233

Chapter 82

Punat 82.5 Buy 82.6 Eat Puna Punatt has has a rang rangee of rest restau aura rant ntss for ever everyy tast taste. e. It is espe espe-cially worth going to one of the fish restaurants, however a special tip is to eat in a konoba - a traditional rustic taverna usually featuring an open-hearth fireplace. Apart from fish, it is recommended to try the island delicacy šurlice. A type of home-made pasta prepared with beef goulas goulash. h. A good good kono konoba ba in Punat Punat is “Kono “Konoba ba Sidro Sidro”” along along the Punat promenade.

View of Punat and the Island of Košljun Košljun

Punat lies Punat lies on the eastern coast of the bay of Punat on 82.7 .7 Drink rink the island of Krk of Krk in in Croatia Croatia.. It is well protected against 82 storm, as well as the whole bay of Punat. In the bay of Punat there is a well known marina. In the middle of the There are three popular places to go out, each with difbay of Punat there t here is a little island islan d called Košljun, famous famous ferent kind of music. for a Franciscan monastery and ethnographic and sacral museum collections. In the port, there is a small cafe Piccolo which Piccolo which has recently been renovated and hosts evenings with bands such as Boduli that play mostly Croatian popular songs, Dalmatian romantic tunes or traditional songs from continental Croatia that make you want 82.1 82 .1 Get Get in to dance. They are multitalented musicians that sing in harmony at the same time playing on traditional Croatian instruments. •

82.2 82 .2 Get Get arou around nd

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82.3 See •

82.4 Do Punat has a long tradition of fishing and this is immediately obvious as one visits the port of Punat in the summer, bustling with boats of different shapes and sizes. Fishing is no longer reserved just for the locals, tourists may join on one of the fishing trips and also enjoy enjoy a delicious dinner dinner made on board from the fresh fresh catch. The owners of the boats Zlatopružica and Lenica offer this unique experience.

Onix is Onix is a bar on the coast on the way to the beach that has a proper club-feel club-feel in the summer and hosts bigger concerts,ranging from Croatian pop music to DJ events to turbo folk. Cinema, Cinema, a cafe in the centre of town hosting mostly DJ sets with a bit more hard-core music.

82.8 82 .8 Slee Sleepp 82.9 82 .9 Go ne next xt

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Chapter 83

Town Krk The Town The Town Krk is 83.7 .7 Drink rink Krk is the administrative and political centre 83 of the island of Krk of Krk in in Croatia Croatia.. Old town town is inside inside the the town walls built in Roman times and in the middle ages. Bacchus Wine Restaurant in Restaurant in the old town: All sorts of different wines plus excellent food, the best and cheapest food you can find in the old town. Enter Soto Boterije through a small gate in the city wall behind the tower to 83.1 83 .1 Get Get in enjoy cheap drinks and sitting on the rocks of the coast. The bridge allows buses to travel from many points Casa del Padrone on Padrone on the main quay promenade: Wide around around Croati Croatiaa (incl (includi uding ng daily daily buses buses from/to rom/to Zagre Zagrebb and selection of cocktails and coffees on the terrace right at Rijeka) to access the town. the seafront, protruding out of the quay promenade allike a boat. Also offers offers gorgeous gorgeous cakes cakes and iceOtherwise you can fly into Rijeka Airport nearby, or just most like cream. Beautiful settings with plush cushioned chairs. drive across the bridge. There is a bus service from Rijeka to Krk town.[[]]

83.8 83 .8 Slee Sleepp 83.2 83 .2 Get Get arou around nd

There’s a youth hostel in KRK . It is pretty run down though and you cannot lock the toilet and shower doors! By foot! All within walking distance, and gives you time The location is excellent though and you won't get a to explore everything. cheaper bed. One night in a 3-4 bedroom dorm is around 117 plus tax and a “registration fee” so it sets you back abou aboutt 150 150 Kuna Kuna.. The plac placee used used to be for over over 55 peop people le,, the owner has had registered it for 24 guests only so you 83.3 See currently will find half of the rooms locked and taped up The town Krk has numerous historical and cultural mon- by the tax office. uments ), Vrsanska 26/L, Aurea International ( International (Aurea Krk ), 51500 Krk (On the right hand side as you start to de The 3-aisle romanesque cathedral - XII century. ), ☎ +385 ☎ +385 51 221-777, 221-777 , scend into Krk Town Center ), e-mail: e-mail: [email protected]. [email protected]. Locally based agency The remnants of the Roman Roman baths - II century. offering offering wide choice of apartment accommodation Frankopan Castle. with with more more than than 400 apartm apartmen ents ts on their their books. books. Staff Staff speaks English, English, German, Italian and Croatian. Outside the main tourist season it is possible to find accommodation by just turning up at the agency al83.4 Do though it is advisable to pre-book in the high season. •

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83.5 Buy

83.9 83 .9 Go ne next xt

83.6 Eat Bacchhus Wine Restaurant: Restaurant : Best food and at super low prices. Located in the old city, just ask your way there. 235

Chapter 84

Vrbnik Vrbnik is a picturesque town on high cliff above the sea. It is a place of good wine “Vrbnička žlahtina”.

84.1 Get in From the Krk bridge follow the signs for Baska. After about 30 Km you will see signposts for Vrbnik.

84.2 Get around On foot! Vrbnik is hilltop town with small narrow streets not suitable for cars.

84.3 See 84.4 Do 84.5 Buy “Vrbnička žlahtina” wine. It is grown on the fields around Vrbnik and it is one of the best white wines in Croatia.

84.6 Eat 84.7 Drink 84.8 Sleep Go to a man called Osipic. Everybody knows him in town. He’s a fisherman and rents out apartments to tourists. Definitely the best place to stay and should not miss his famous grilled fish.

84.9 Go next 236

84.10. TEXT AND IMAGE SOURCES, CONTRIBUTORS, AND LICENSES

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Croatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Croatia?oldid=3175211 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Guaka~enwikivoyage, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Syced, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, Shaundd, Vidimian, Inas, JamesA, Jonboy, Cacahuate, Elgaard, Saqib, Alice, Eiland, Nurg, Romaine, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Primecoordinator, (WT-en) Akubra, (WT-en) Uridiego, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) EBB, (WT-en) Bijee, (WT-en) Professorbiscuit, (WT-en) WikiTravelMaster, (WT-en) Wojsyl, (WT-en) Tristram Shandy, (WT-en) Pz-engl, (WT-en) Michal Stankoviansky, (WT-en) Aidan, (WT-en) CIAWorldFactbook2002, (WT-en) Sevenlee, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Cktoh, (WT-en) Jakeseems, (WT-en) Dox, (WT-en) Ddoppler, (WT-en) Planik, (WT-en) Strapontin, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-en) Ferike333, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Johnfkoen, (WT-en) Orvas, (WT-en) RENEGADE, (WT-en) Mariobonacic, (WT-en) Zb, (WT-en) DrSnap, (WT-en) Maxpietzsch, (WT-en) Breitner-czuma, (WT-en) Bknight009, (WT-en) Erl, (WT-en) PlavetniloWikiTravel, (WT-en) Neoneo13, (WT-en) Vserbu, (WT-en) Konaval, (WT-en) Konavala, (WT-en) Truthmedia, (WT-en) Willsmithorg, (WT-en) Silversurf, (WT-en) Milenium, (WT-en) Ewiepert, (WT-en) Manoro, (WT-en) Kiso, (WT-en) Euroman, (WT-en) BrankaHF, (WT-en) Reva, (WT-en) Amck99, (WT-en) Kingbeem, (WT-en) Aloyscius, (WT-en) Ccoal, (WT-en) SoundOfVision, (WT-en) I-am-neuron, (WT-en) Daveeee, (WT-en) Okcroatia, (WTen) Villadoris, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Matulini, (WT-en) Tvrtko26, ( WT-en) Orebic, (WT-en) Pulena, (WT-en) Trajektman, (WT-en) Irishguy123, (WT-en) Bowman20, (WT-en) Vprazen, (WT-en) TotalCroatia, (WT-en) Nicetta, (WT-en) Lik, (WT-en) Croatia, (WTen) Toni.amoreli, (WT-en) M.beros, (WT-en) DNBR, (WT-en) Renolas, (WT-en) Purtelo, (WT-en) CroWatch, The dog2, Ikan Kekek, Rschen7754, IvanOS, Graham87, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Marek69, Andrewssi2, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, Yvwv, Bill-on-the-Hill, Sapphire, Andyrom75, Editorxd, Texugo, ChubbyWimbus, Jollychang~enwikivoyage, WOSlinker, Tentoo12, IvanIKL, Mx. Granger, Handrian, Lo Ximiendo, Bernello, Traveler100bot, Vrkach, PrinceGloria, Egyptian Globetrotter, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Flip666, LeoAdriaticus, Matroc, Addbot, Kitoglaw, Dmartin969, T.seppelt, Tanper, Hobbitschuster, Mkuzmani, Rubbish computer, Joskopoljak777, Ground Zero, Lqccharter, Hrbackpacker, Vanmay, Kubakar, Doubleplusjeff, Fv309 and Anonymous: 429 Samobor Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Samobor?oldid=3136983 Contributors: LtPowers, Pashley, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2 Central Croatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Central_Croatia?oldid=3112074 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian,(WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Eiland, IkanKekek, The Anome, CarsracBot, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 4 Karlovac Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Karlovac?oldid=3132694 Contributors: Wrh2, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Vor, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 6 Krapina Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krapina?oldid=2818400 Contributors: Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Tanja, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 3 Krapinske Toplice Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krapinske_Toplice?oldid=2956298 Contributors: Wrh2, Ikan Kekek, Hobbitschuster and Anonymous: 1 Sisak Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Sisak?oldid=3159069 Contributors: Saqib, Mey2008, Ikan Kekek, Texugo, Fv309 and Anonymous: 4 Varaždin Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vara%C5%BEdin?oldid=3138956 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Graphemea, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 16 Vrbovec Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vrbovec?oldid=2408097 Contributors: LtPowers, Pashley, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2 Zagreb Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Zagreb?oldid=3179040 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Elgaard, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WT-en) Valtteri, (WT-en) Panos, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) Rouge, (WT-en) Cohsoldboy, (WT-en) Quirk, (WT-en) Hscholz, (WT-en) Madfan87, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN, (WT-en) Mark Richards, (WT-en) Patkica, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Ptbennett, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Steppenfox, (WT-en) Euroman, (WTen) Xgogix, (WT-en) Bowman20, (WT-en) Userfriendly, (WT-en) Londonpommie, (WT-en) Dciboci, (W T-en) Martin, (WT-en) Shallot, (WT-en) SpeedyGonsales, (WT-en) Mattw, (WT-en) Loonytoon, (WT-en) Ignoramus, (WT-en) Nokturno, (WT-en) Squirrel, (WT-en) Joeyz100, (WT-en) Matejuska, (WT-en) Boba, (WT-en) ALEXANDAARON, ( WT-en) Hutchence, (WT-en) TajneGriča, Thehelpfulbot, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, Querent, The Anomebot2, Xaneris, LilHelpa, JuliasTravels, Andrewssi2, Traveler100, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Ex13, Bill-on-the-Hill, Texugo, AbrahamWhistler, WOSlinker, Druzhnik, Rangan Datta Wiki, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, PrinceGloria, SteveRBot, Zeljko.filipin, Wrh2Bot, Irn, Flip666, Matroc, Addbot, Gagravarr, Shugal, Uhkabu, Memberx0, Vadp, Shinae Hyun, Ivi104, Doubleplusjeff, D.Nino and Anonymous: 238 Istria Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Istria?oldid=3170582 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Shaundd, Vidimian, Pashley, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Celticevergreen, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Ohsimone, (WT-en) Lacerta, (WT-en) Erl, (WT-en) Silversurf, (WT-en) Nicetta, (WT-en) GhanaGirl, (WT-en) Davx75, (WT-en) Ancorreas, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, Marek69, Gorilla Jones, Dave.Dunford, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, PrinceGloria, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Bonaca11 and Anonymous: 21 Brijuni Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Brijuni?oldid=2882856 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, LtPowers, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Kateromanovich, (WT-en) Ohsimone, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Massimo Telò, CarsracBot, Voll, Traveler100bot, Addbot, Bonaca11 and Anonymous: 1 Fažana Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Fa%C5%BEana?oldid=2882899 Contributors: K7L, Ikan Kekek, JuliasTravels, Traveler100, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Bonaca11 and Anonymous: 1

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CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK Motovun Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Motovun?oldid=2294893 Contributors: LtPowers, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 Poreč Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pore%C4%8D?oldid=3136163 Contributors: Wrh2, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Shaundd, Saqib, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) Brixtonian, (WT-en) Nicetta, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 13 Pula Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pula?oldid=3166821 Contributors: Wrh2, Guaka~enwikivoyage, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Inas, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Brendio, (WTen) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) Simone, (WT-en) Bujatt, (WT-en) RJK, (WT-en) Ertw23, (WT-en) Jriddell, (WT-en) Ohsimone, (WT-en) Lacerta, (WT-en) Ewiepert, (WT-en) I-am-neuron, (WT-en) Davx75, (WT-en) Innkeeper, Ikan Kekek, Berthold Werner, The Anomebot2, Marek69, JuliasTravels, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Voll, Handrian, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, 118.93nzp, Portalko, Bonaca11, D.Nino and Anonymous: 53 Rovinj Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rovinj?oldid=3136807 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Globe-trotter, Jnich99, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Ertw23, (WT-en) Ohsimone, (WT-en) Erl, (WT-en) Nicetta, (WT-en) Lumosca, (WT-en) StefanoC, (WT-en) Rovinj, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Sapphire, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Flip666, Addbot and Anonymous: 19 Umag Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Umag?oldid=2420213 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, LtPowers, (WTen) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Davx75, (WT-en) Gile, The Anomebot2, JuliasTravels, CarsracBot, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 6 Vrsar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vrsar?oldid=2853422 Contributors: Wrh2, Jc8136, LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Lumosca, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, SamoaBot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 3 Slavonia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Slavonia?oldid=3116464 Contributors: Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globetrotter, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Peymora, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, CarsracBot, Texugo, ' , Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 7 Đakovo Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C4%90akovo?oldid=3139741 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Peymora, Koavf, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1 Liberland Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Liberland?oldid=3045264 Contributors: Vidimian, Ikan Kekek, Pigsonthewing, Andrewssi2, Traveler100, Hkjacksonhk, T.seppelt, Kren98, Williamliweb and Anonymous: 2 Osijek Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Osijek?oldid=3135616 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, AlasdairW, Vidimian, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Bknight009, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, CarsracBot, Filelakeshoe, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Andrejmlinarevic and Anonymous: 33 Šidski Banovci Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C5%A0idski_Banovci?oldid=3047332 Contributors: Nurg, Traveler100, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 3 Slavonski Brod Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Slavonski_Brod?oldid=3137478 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Cacahuate, Eiland, (WT-en) Edmontonenthusiast, (WT-en) Smt101, (WT-en) Peymora, The Anomebot2, Filelakeshoe, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 4 Vukovar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vukovar?oldid=2959789 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Vidimian, K7L, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Bknight009, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 12 Dalmatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dalmatia?oldid=3112615 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, Cacahuate, Xltel, Elgaard, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Ilkirk, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Primecoordinator, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Pz-engl, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Planik, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Matulini, (WT-en) Orebic, (WT-en) Vjuresko, (WT-en) Leor, (WT-en) Andro251, Ikan Kekek, NJR ZA, BAICAN XXX, Primecoordinator, Andyrom75, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, YiFeiBot, Jay10split and Anonymous: 51 Krka National Park Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krka_National_Park?oldid=3065523 Contributors: Ypsilon, Ikan Kekek, Traveler100, YaniStroeckx, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Lkcl it, Addbot, Vadp and Anonymous: 1 Plitvice National Park Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Plitvice_Lakes_National_Park?oldid=3063470 Contributors: Sertmann, Pbsouthwood, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Globe-trotter, Xltel, Elgaard, Saqib, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en) Davidx, (WT-en) Alf1052, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) HappyV, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Rangan Datta Wiki, Traveler100bot, Vrkach, SteveRBot, Addbot, Vadp, ArticCynda and Anonymous: 2 3 Dubrovnik-Neretva Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dubrovnik-Neretva?oldid=3076739 Contributors: Ypsilon, Eiland, Nurg, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Addbot Cavtat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cavtat?oldid=2869217 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, LtPowers, Nurg, Davidbstanley, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) TravelStoreMaker.com, The Anomebot2, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 10 Dubrovnik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dubrovnik?oldid=3144068 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Shaundd, Vidimian, Inas, Pashley, Jonboy, Xltel, Elgaard, Saqib, Kulmalukko, Nurg, Vmenkov, RegentsPark, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WTen) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Andrew C. Bowman, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) InterLangBot, (WT-en) Titania, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) Primecoordinator, (WT-en) Nrms, (WT-en) Candacedriskell, (WT-en) Jbradfor, (WT-en) WikiTravelMaster, (WT-en) Chinzh, (WT-en) Pz-engl, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Travelboy, (WT-en) VolkovBot, (WT-en) Aburda, (WT-en) EinarKramer, (WT-en) Mtaussig, (WT-en) Vkw, (WT-en) Mku, (WT-en) B rixtonian, (WT-en) Salvadors, (WT-en) KerriWare, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Realwahl, (WT-en) Mariobonacic, (WT-en) Patrickr, (WT-en) Peymora, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Maxpietzsch, (WT-en) JMac82,


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Klek Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Klek?oldid=2955386 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Inas, Globe-trotter, Nurg, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Tua89481, Traveler100, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Ikipfler and Anonymous: 2 Komarna Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Komarna?oldid=3133072 Contributors: Sertmann, LtPowers, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WTen) Matulini, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 4 Korčula Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kor%C4%8Dula?oldid=3133103 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, LtPowers, Pashley, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WTen) Jakeseems, (WT-en) Johan Jönsson, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) JMac82, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, D oubleplusjeff and Anonymous: 31 Lumbarda Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Lumbarda?oldid=3134025 Contributors: Dguillaume, LtPowers, Nurg, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Maroje, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 5 Mljet Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mljet?oldid=3153747 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) SnappyHip, (WT-en) Jakeseems, (WT-en) JMac82, (WT-en) TravelStoreMaker.com, (WT-en) Ma0sm, (WT-en) Kaheksija, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, N1n0, Doubleplusjeff, Blacksad and Anonymous: 15 Orebić Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Orebi%C4%87?oldid=3135587 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Eiland, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Quahadi, (WT-en) Orebic, (WT-en) OrebicTouristBoard, Mey2008, The Anome, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 17 Ploče Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Plo%C4%8De?oldid=3136108 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Elgaard, Eiland, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Skeleton Jack of Salem, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Brettarenz, The Anome, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 7 Ston Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ston?oldid=3137966 Contributors: LtPowers, AlasdairW, Elgaard, Eiland, Nurg, (WT-en) Orebic, (WT-en) Chene Beck, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 4 Northern Dalmatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Northern_Dalmatia?oldid=3087425 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Nurg, Texugo, Rangan Datta Wiki, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Ibaman, YiFeiBot, Vadp and Anonymous: 1 Biograd na Moru Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Biograd_na_Moru?oldid=3129049 Contributors: LtPowers, Nurg, (WT-en) Zergu, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, Gorilla Jones, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Smokestack Basilisk, Vadp and Anonymous: 1 Dugi Otok Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Dugi_Otok?oldid=3112686 Contributors: Wrh2Bot and Vadp Kornati National Park Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kornati_National_Park?oldid=3068950 Contributors: Vadp Murter Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Murter?oldid=3083421 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Xltel, Saqib, Nurg, (WT-en) Murter, Mey2008, Felix505, Stratoprutser, The Anomebot2, Marek69, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Vadp and Anonymous: 1 Novalja Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Novalja?oldid=2998399 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers, Globetrotter, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Jnich99, (WT-en) Roundtheworld, (WT-en) FatboyShrek, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Gregor.bobovnik and Anonymous: 26 Pag (town) Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pag_(town)?oldid=2959746 Contributors: Dguillaume, LtPowers, Nurg, ClausHansen, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5 Pašman Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Pa%C5%A1man?oldid=3135857 Contributors: LtPowers, Ravikiran r, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Vjuresko, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 5 Ražanac Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ra%C5%BEanac?oldid=2294870 Contributors: LtPowers, Inas, Nurg, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Planik, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot and Wrh2Bot Rtina Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rtina?oldid=3135503 Contributors: LtPowers, Inas, Nurg, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Planik, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Gingibash and Anonymous: 1 Šibenik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/%C5%A0ibenik?oldid=3143112 Contributors: Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) W66LinkBot, (WTen) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) SEYFI TABAN, (WT-en) HappyV, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Andrewssi2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Voll, WOSlinker, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Vadp and Anonymous: 21 Zadar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Zadar?oldid=3177019 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Nurg, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (W T-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) 219 106 25 99, (WT-en) Planik, (WT-en) H appyV, (WT-en) Aloyscius, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) M ajaz, (WT-en) Bdolicki, (WT-en) Brimful45, (WTen) Beg, (WT-en) Jandrinov, (WT-en) Nepomuk, Ikan Kekek, Felix505, Sissssou, Stratoprutser, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Traveler100, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Voll, WOSlinker, Rangan Datta Wiki, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Metaltravel666, Kitoglaw, AntonBryl, WhatamIdoing, Vadp, Rubbish computer, Devsaini138, Gingibash, Gdssd3, ArticCynda and Anonymous: 42

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CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK Split-Dalmatia Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Split-Dalmatia?oldid=3116614 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Ypsilon, Nurg, Ikan Kekek, Traveler100, Andyrom75, Voll, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 2 Baska Voda Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Baska_Voda?oldid=3041486 Contributors: Wrh2, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Elgaard, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Themanwhowouldbeking, (WT-en) Eric Bauman, (WT-en) Orvas, (WT-en) Л.П. Джепко, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Curtaintoad, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 5 Bratuš Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bratu%C5%A1?oldid=2739640 Contributors: Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Morph, (WTen) Episteme, (WT-en) Contrela, (WT-en) Ghostgirl, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 8 Drvenik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Drvenik?oldid=2402153 Contributors: LtPowers, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Eiland, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5 Hvar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Hvar?oldid=3132251 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, ClausHansen, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Fastestdogever, (WT-en) Eiland, (W T-en) Johan Jönsson, (WTen) Mtaussig, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) Riggwelter, (WT-en) Ertw23, (WT-en) Orvas, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Ewiepert, (WT-en) Marin, (WT-en) Nimmersatt, (WT-en) Leut, (WT-en) Androjk, (WT-en) 9aplus, (WT-en) Panasonik, (WT-en) Vese, (WT-en) Er dalmata, (WT-en) Ecijabv, Mey2008, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, Gorilla Jones, Andyrom75, Texugo, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Danapit, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Eosrei, Matroc, Addbot, Vadp, Hvarpoint and Anonymous: 82 Makarska Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Makarska?oldid=3180130 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Globe-trotter, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Maj, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Ma riomalicki, (WT-en) Contrela, (WT-en) Bknight009, (WT-en) Iksnigo, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Leor, (WT-en) Majaz, (WT-en) Bsumic, (WT-en) Ijujnovic, Ikan Kekek, Felix505, Л.П. Джепко, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Gorilla Jones, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot, Ground Zero and Anonymous: 42 Maslinica Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Maslinica?oldid=2348424 Contributors: Wrh2, Sumone10154, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Nurg, K7L, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, The Anomebot2, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 2 Omiš Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Omi%C5%A1?oldid=3171267 Contributors: Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, LtPowers, Pashley, Nurg, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Andrew C. Bowman, (WT-en) HappyV, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Sapphire, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 23 Promajna Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Promajna?oldid=2960031 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Pashley, Nurg, (WT-en) Ijujnovic, Texugo, Inasbot and Traveler100bot Solta Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Solta?oldid=2628426 Contributors: Wrh2, Jc8136, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, Nurg, (WT-en) Lik, Traveler100, CarsracBot, Seligne, Texugo, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Tol84lo, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 1 Split Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Split?oldid=3177415 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Sertmann, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, Sumone10154, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Vidimian, Inas, Globe-trotter, Jonboy, Xltel, Elgaard, Saqib, Eiland, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Nzpcmad, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WT-en) DanielC, (WT-en) MarinaK, (WT-en) SnappyHip, (WT-en) Quirk, (WT-en) Mariusm98, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) Local hero, (WT-en) Orvas, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Trajektman, (WT-en) Andro251, (WT-en) Kasnije, (WT-en) Majaz, (WT-en) Vese, (WT-en) Axisfrontier, (WT-en) Goran st, (WT-en) Beg, (WT-en) Nkedzo, (WT-en) Maj100r, (WT-en) Internetst, (WT-en) Split-rent, (WT-en) Tony-st, (WT-en) Spaleto, (WT-en) Andro, (WT-en) Zblace, (WT-en) Tcorrea, IkanKekek, Felix505, Penarc, Jeanot, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, JuliasTravels, Andrewssi2, Sumone’s bot, EvanProdromou, Tiimta, CarsracBot, Texugo, WOSlinker, Druzhnik, Jjtkk, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, B. oleracea, Addbot, Kitoglaw, Madaiono, AntonBryl, Vadp, Croatia~enwikivoyage, Kubakar, Doubleplusjeff, Jay10split, Openwatercroatia and Anonymous: 211 Trogir Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Trogir?oldid=3138709 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Ypsilon, LtPowers, Inas, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Tatatabot, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) J jtk, (WT-en) WindHorse, (WTen) Airin, (WT-en) Mtaussig, (WT-en) Kiwimhm, (WT-en) Johnfkoen, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Maj100r, (WT-en) Grigori, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Vadp and Anonymous: 33 Vinisce Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vinisce?oldid=3139074 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Pashley, Nurg, Jnich99, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Ivona123, The Anomebot2, Gorilla J ones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc and Anonymous: 4 Vis Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vis?oldid=3041906 Contributors: Stefan2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Nurg, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Katharinah, (WT-en) Tonio hr, Ikan Kekek, Jeanot, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, SteveRBot, Matroc, Addbot and Anonymous: 6 Brac Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bra%C4%8D?oldid=3063695 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Jc8136, Dguillaume, Jjtk~enwikivoyage, LtPowers, Pashley, Nurg, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Airin, (WTen) Eiland, (WT-en) Ksanto, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Maxpietzsch, (WT-en) Jacey100, (WT-en) Ibolka, This, that and the other, Ikan Kekek, Penarc, Stratoprutser, The Anomebot2, Denny, Marek69, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Danapit, SteveRBot, Lkcl it, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 18 Bol Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Bol?oldid=3159169 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Inas, Jonboy, Cacahuate, Elgaard, Saqib, Nurg, (WT-en) Morph, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Cardboardbird, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Marin0110, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Swanseacat, (WT-en) Alen, (WT-en) Kisber, (WT-en) Hhenjak, (WT-en) Ksanto, (WTen) Adriatic.express, Ymblanter, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Denny, Marek69, Traveler100, Texugo, Nicholasjf21, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Matroc, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 42 Milna Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Milna?oldid=3134679 Contributors: Sertmann, Dguillaume, LtPowers, (WT-en) Maxpietzsch, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Danapit, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 5


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Supetar Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Supetar?oldid=3138041 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Wrh2, Sertmann, Dguillaume, LtPowers, (WT-en) Jjtk, (W T-en) Rein N., (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Mariomalicki, (WT-en) Adriatic.express, (WT-en) Jacey100, This, that and the other, The Anomebot2, Gorilla Jones, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 11 Kvarner Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Kvarner?oldid=3113543 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Vidimian, Globe-trotter, (WTen) TVerBeek, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Eiland, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Voll, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Vadp and Anonymous: 1 0 Mali Losinj Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Mali_Lo%C5%A1inj?oldid=3113810 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, Nurg, ClausHansen, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Vadp and Anonymous: 4 Rab Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rab?oldid=3032677 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, ClausHansen, (WT-en) DorganBot, (WTen) Airin, (WT-en) Dciboci, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Sumone’s bot, Gorilla Jones, Bokaal, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 7 Rijeka Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Rijeka?oldid=3144313 Contributors: (WV-en) ImportBot, Cjensen~enwikivoyage, Wrh2, Jpatokal, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Inas, Pashley, RegentsPark, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Huttite, (WT-en) Brendio, (WT-en) Episteme, (WT-en) Jjtk, (WT-en) Hot Coffee, (WT-en) George Furimidad, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Rmx, (WT-en) Eiland, (WT-en) Paul Richter, (WT-en) Brixtonian, (WT-en) HappyV, (WT-en) Powella, (WT-en) Silversurf, (WT-en) Xgogix, (WT-en) Eleonora Rebecca, (WT-en) Taxirijeka, (WT-en) RijekaTouristBoard, Eco84, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, CarsracBot, Bill-on-the-Hill, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Nonja Business, SteveRBot, Ibaman, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Hobbitschuster, CommonsDelinker, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 44 Senj Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Senj?oldid=3137257 Contributors: LtPowers, Vidimian, (WT-en) Bujatt, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 1 Cres Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cres?oldid=2943940 Contributors: Wrh2, Dguillaume, LtPowers, ClausHansen, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Bujatt, Ikan Kekek, The Anomebot2, Marek69, CarsracBot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot and Anonymous: 6 Beli Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Beli?oldid=3128879 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, (WT-en) Gnomee, (WT-en) Bujatt, The Anomebot2, Texugo, WOSlinker, Inasbot, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Smokestack Basilisk and Anonymous: 1 Krk Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Krk?oldid=3133170 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, Dguillaume, LtPowers, Tsandell, (WT-en) Burmesedays, (WT-en) Airin, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-en) Johnfkoen, (WT-en) Souvenir, IkanKekek, The Anomebot2, NJR ZA, LilHelpa, Marek69, Sumone’s bot, Gorilla Jones, CarsracBot, Texugo, Jjtkk, Traveler100bot, SteveRBot, Wrh2Bot, Addbot, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 14 Baška Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Ba%C5%A1ka?oldid=2948747 Contributors: Wrh2, Peterfitzgerald, LtPowers, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, The Anomebot2, Texugo, Traveler100bot, A.Bernhard and Anonymous: 2 Malinska Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Malinska?oldid=3134278 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-en) Proffa, Ikan Kekek, Vhorvat, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, WOSlinker, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 2 Njivice Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Njivice?oldid=3151096 Contributors: Wrh2, Sertmann, Inas, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WT-en) Proffa, Ikan Kekek, LilHelpa, Traveler100, Texugo, Traveler100bot, DaGizza, Hrbackpacker and Anonymous: 7 Punat Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Punat?oldid=2452062 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, Shaundd, Stefan2bot, (WT-en) Zkalinic, (WT-en) Souvenir, The Anomebot2, Traveler100, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 1 Town Krk Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Town_Krk?oldid=2407865 Contributors: Wrh2, LtPowers, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, (WTen) Souvenir, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, Texugo, Traveler100bot, Wrh2Bot and Anonymous: 5 Vrbnik Source: https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Vrbnik?oldid=2408096 Contributors: LtPowers, (WT-en) Nigger poop, (WT-en) Z-kalinic, The Anome, The Anomebot2, LilHelpa, EvanProdromou, Texugo, Traveler100bot and Anonymous: 2

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File:2011_Dubrownik,_Fort_św._Jana.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d9/2011_Dubrownik%2C_ Fort_%C5%9Bw._Jana.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Marcin Konsek File:2011_Dubrownik,_Pałac_Sponza_(01).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1f/2011_Dubrownik% 2C_Pa%C5%82ac_Sponza_%2801%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Marcin Konsek File:Adria_Hotel_in_Port_of_Malinska.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cb/Adria_Hotel_in_Port_ of_Malinska.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Malinska mul Original artist: ronibaric File:Ambox_warning_red.svg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Ambox_warning_pn.svg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work based on File:Circle-style-warning.svg by Carelesshx Original artist: penubag File:Amphitheatre,_Burnum_legionary_camp,_Dalmatia_(10379905305).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/3/3e/Amphitheatre%2C_Burnum_legionary_camp%2C_Dalmatia_%2810379905305%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Amphitheatre, Burnum legionary camp, Dalmatia Original artist: Carole Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany File:Archeological_museum_Zagreb.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e7/Archeological_museum_ Zagreb.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV File:BOL_BRAC.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/33/BOL_BRAC.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Kelovy File:Bar_Life_in_Sibenik_-_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9d/Bar_Life_in_Sibenik_-_ Croatia.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Adam Jones Adam63 File:Baska_Voda-2011.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/dc/Baska_Voda-2011.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Leonid Dzhepko - User: (WT-shared) Л.П. Джепко at wts wikivoyage

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CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK File:Bokar.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fb/Bokar.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: (WT-en) Chigra at English Wikivoyage File:Bratus_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/Bratus_Croatia.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: (WT-en) Contrela at English Wikivoyage File:Bundek_20150307_DSC_0108.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/82/Bundek_20150307_DSC_ 0108.JPG License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Branko Radovanović File:Bus_Zagreb_(1).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ef/Bus_Zagreb_%281%29.jpg License: CC BYSA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Suradnik13 File:CHURCH_OF_ST._ROCHE,_SPLIT,_CROATIA.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/12/ CHURCH_OF_ST._ROCHE%2C_SPLIT%2C_CROATIA.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: JERRYE AND ROY KLOTZ MD File:Casco_viejo_de_Dubrovnik,_Croacia,_2014-04-14,_DD_04.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/ b4/Casco_viejo_de_Dubrovnik%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-14%2C_DD_04.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diego Delso File:Cathédrale-Saint-Jacques-Sibenik-2.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/Cath%C3% A9drale-Saint-Jacques-Sibenik-2.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims). Original artist: No machine-readable author provided. Vyskocil~commonswiki assumed (based on copyright claims). File:Cathédrale-Saint-Jacques.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e7/Cath%C3% A9drale-Saint-Jacques.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: ? Original artist: ? File:Church_and_the_Port_of_Milna,_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Church_and_ the_Port_of_Milna%2C_Croatia.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: Church and the Port of Milna, Croatia Original artist: Alex Proimos File:Church_of_St._Donat_in_Late_Afternoon_Light_-_Zadar_-_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/4/4a/Church_of_St._Donat_in_Late_Afternoon_Light_-_Zadar_-_Croatia.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Adam Jones Adam63 File:Ciganka_beach_Rab.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5e/Ciganka_beach_Rab.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: originally posted to Flickr as ciganka beach,island of rab (HR) Original artist: Otmar Lichtenwörther File:City_Hall_sibenik.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/54/City_Hall_sibenik.JPG License: CC-BYSA-3.0 Contributors: Šibenik, Croatia Original artist: Lacen File:City_walls_of_Ston0008.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e1/City_walls_of_Ston0008.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Anto (talk) 13:24, 9 March 2009 (UTC) File:Croatia_-_Dubrovnik.PNG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d5/Croatia_-_Dubrovnik.PNG License: Public domain Contributors: own work based on PD map Original artist: edited by M.Minderhoud File:Croatia_BW_2014-10-08_11-19-37.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/Croatia_BW_ 2014-10-08_11-19-37.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Berthold Werner File:Croatia_Fazana_2014-10-11_13-05-40.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/Croatia_Fazana_ 2014-10-11_13-05-40.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Berthold Werner File:Croatia_Porec_Euphrasius_Basilika_BW_2014-10-08_10-47-48.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/b/bf/Croatia_Porec_Euphrasius_Basilika_BW_2014-10-08_10-47-48.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Berthold Werner File:Croatia_Pula_Amphitheatre_2014-10-11_11-04-27.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/24/ Croatia_Pula_Amphitheatre_2014-10-11_11-04-27.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Berthold Werner File:Croatia_Regions_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/Croatia_Regions_map.png License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work based on the UN Map of Croatia and OpenStreetMap Original artist: Burmesedays File:Croatian_National_Theatre_Zagreb_1.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Croatian_National_ Theatre_Zagreb_1.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV File:DalmatiaLake.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/30/DalmatiaLake.jpg License: CC BY-SA 1.0 Contributors: http://wikitravel.org/en/File:DalmatiaLake.jpg Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - (WT-en) Elgaard at English Wikivoyage File:Diocletian’{}s_Palace_(original_appearance).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/16/Diocletian% 27s_Palace_%28original_appearance%29.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: http://www.civilization.org.uk/decline-and-fall/ diocletian Original artist: Ernest Hébrard (recoloured by DIREKTOR) File:Diocletians_Palace,_Split_(11908116224).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3f/Diocletians_ Palace%2C_Split_%2811908116224%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Diocletian’s Palace, Split Original artist: Carole Raddato from FRANKFURT, Germany File:Dubovac_Castle_in_Karlovac11,_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a6/Dubovac_Castle_ in_Karlovac11%2C_Croatia.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Bearcro File:Dubrovnik1.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/56/Dubrovnik1.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: self-taken by Greenweasel in engl. Wiki Original artist: Greenweasel File:Dubrovnik1bqw.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5b/Dubrovnik1bqw.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Baoqingwang


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File:DubrovnikBeach.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b6/DubrovnikBeach.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - User: (WT-shared) Elgaard at wts wikivoyage File:DubrovnikStradun2008.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0d/DubrovnikStradun2008.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Elgaard File:Dubrovnik_Cafe.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3b/Dubrovnik_Cafe.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimmyharris/2773536787/ Original artist: Flickr user: jimmyharris File:Dubrovnik_shops.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/61/Dubrovnik_shops.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: http://www.flickr.com/photos/glassarmy/2597824472/ Original artist: glassarmy File:Dubrovnik_view_from_ocean.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cc/Dubrovnik_view_from_ocean. jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Samum File:Dugi_Otok_100920-083903-IMG_5616.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/23/Dugi_Otok_ 100920-083903-IMG_5616.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vadp File:Dugi_otok_0499.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cb/Dugi_otok_0499.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: https://plus.google.com/photos/109390040278829416941/albums/5506344640606003697?banner=pwa Original artist: Krešimir Bikić File:Estatua_de_Tomislav_de_Croacia,_Zagreb,_Croacia,_2014-04-20,_DD_04.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/ wikipedia/commons/4/4a/Estatua_de_Tomislav_de_Croacia%2C_Zagreb%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-20%2C_DD_04.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diego Delso File:Exposure_5_seconds.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a4/Exposure_5_seconds.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Romanceor File:Gardien_du_Temple_de_Vulcain_Split_-_Croatie.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/b3/ Gardien_du_Temple_de_Vulcain_Split_-_Croatie.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Stefdn File:Hotel_Esplanade,_Zagreb,_Croacia,_2014-04-13,_DD_01.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/ 10/Hotel_Esplanade%2C_Zagreb%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-13%2C_DD_01.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diego Delso File:Hvar-harbour-panorama-1.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a9/Hvar-harbour-panorama-1.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User: Stop_The_Lies File:Hvar-square-1.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/27/Hvar-square-1.JPG License: CC BY 2.5 Contributors: Own work Original artist: japus File:Hvar1.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/77/Hvar1.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Tomeq183 File:HvarFortressCannon.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2f/HvarFortressCannon.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen File:HvarTownSpire.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d4/HvarTownSpire.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen File:Hvar_fortress.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e4/Hvar_fortress.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Marbax2 File:Hvar_from_Fortica.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/91/Hvar_from_Fortica.JPG License: CC BY 2.5 Contributors: Own work Original artist: F.G. comm File:Iglesia_de_Santa_Catarina,_Zagreb,_Croacia,_2014-04-13,_DD_01.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ commons/e/ed/Iglesia_de_Santa_Catarina%2C_Zagreb%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-13%2C_DD_01.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diego Delso File:Interior_de_l'església_de_Sant_Ignasi,_Dubrovnik.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/ Interior_de_l%27esgl%C3%A9sia_de_Sant_Ignasi%2C_Dubrovnik.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Joanbanjo File:Island_Brač,_city_Bol_.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9c/Island_Bra%C4%8D%2C_city_Bol. JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Kirilll File:Između_dvi_stine1140337.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/55/Izme%C4%91u_dvi_ stine1140337.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Quahadi Añtó 15:42, 15 January 2011 (UTC) File:Jardin_botanique_de_Zagreb,_Pavillon.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fe/Jardin_botanique_ de_Zagreb%2C_Pavillon.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Jeabapt File:Jardolinja_Ferry,_Zadar.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/37/Jardolinja_Ferry%2C_Zadar.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rangan Datta Wiki File:Jarun_Lake_aerial_view.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1b/Jarun_Lake_aerial_view.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Suradnik13 File:Kamenica_beach_in_Vis_in_Dalmatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3d/Kamenica_beach_in_ Vis_in_Dalmatia.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Foice at wts wikivoyage File:Kamenica_beach_in_Vis_in_Dalmatia_2.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4f/Kamenica_beach_ in_Vis_in_Dalmatia_2.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Foice at wts wikivoyage File:Karlovačko_in_Zagreb.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cf/Karlova%C4%8Dko_in_Zagreb.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: Random Zagreb Original artist: David Bailey

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CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK File:Kathedrale_-_Zagreb_-_2010.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/97/Kathedrale_-_Zagreb_-_2010. jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Avda File:Kim’{}s_Klek15,_kleines_Inselchen.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e2/Kim%27s_Klek15% 2C_kleines_Inselchen.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: http://www.zeitlose-mediterrane-schoenheit.de/suddalmatien/ rund-um-das-neretva-delta-teil-3-mit-klek-und-umgebung-neu Original artist: Kim File:Klovićevi_dvori.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1c/Klovi%C4%87evi_dvori.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Suradnik13 File:Komarna,_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/Komarna%2C_Croatia.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Matulini at wts wikivoyage File:Komarnasea.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3c/Komarnasea.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Matulini at wts wikivoyage File:Kopački_rit_002.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fa/Kopa%C4%8Dki_rit_002.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Frka File:Kornat_island_near_Vrulje.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/52/Kornat_island_near_Vrulje.jpg License: CC BY-SA 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: Kornati Original artist: Josef Grunig File:Kornati.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/51/Kornati.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: ? Original artist: ? File:Kornati_1_2006.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/07/Kornati_1_2006.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Roberta F. File:Kožarić_-_Prizemljeno_sunce.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ee/Ko%C5%BEari%C4%87_-_ Prizemljeno_sunce.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Kožarić; foto Suradnik13 File:Krapina_-_Hruskovo_01.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4b/Krapina_-_Hruskovo_01.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Divna Jaksic File:Krka.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/16/Krka.jpg License: CC BY 2.5 Contributors: No machinereadable source provided. Own work assumed (basedon copyright claims). Original artist: No machine-readableauthor provided. MaciejPie assumed (based on copyright claims). File:Krka01033.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a0/Krka01033.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Nerijp File:Krka01049.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d4/Krka01049.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Nerijp File:Krka01167.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3d/Krka01167.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Nerijp File:Krka15(js).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/76/Krka15%28js%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Jerzy Strzelecki File:Krka_2_-_panoramio.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/5c/Krka_2_-_panoramio.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: http://www.panoramio.com/photo/3133548 Original artist: Nikl Gábor File:Krka_i_Prokljansko_jezero.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/66/Krka_i_Prokljansko_jezero.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Silverije File:Kvarner_gulf_map.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8d/Kvarner_gulf_map.png License: Public domain Contributors: http://www.un.org/Depts/Cartographic/map/profile/croatia.pdf Original artist: Department of Peacekeeping Operations Cartographic Section File:Lavender_fields.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/92/Lavender_fields.jpg License: CCBY 2.0 Contributors: originally posted to Flickr as Lavender fields Original artist: col_ford File:LocationCroatia.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/aa/LocationCroatia.png License: Public domain Contributors: ? Original artist: ? File:Location_Liberland_Europe.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1d/Location_Liberland_Europe. png License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: MasiulisJonas1 File:MURVICA_BEACH.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2a/MURVICA_BEACH.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Kelovy File:MV_Victor_Hugo_R01.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/10/MV_Victor_Hugo_R01.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Marc Ryckaert (MJJR) File:Mana_3.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/79/Mana_3.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Roberta F. File:Milna,_Brač,_Hrvatska_-_Blataška_riva_800x400.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/71/Milna% 2C_Bra%C4%8D%2C_Hrvatska_-_Blata%C5%A1ka_riva_800x400.jpg License: CC BY-SA3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Ante Perkovic File:Mirogoj_Zagreb_entrance.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/7a/Mirogoj_Zagreb_entrance.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV File:Mlet_convent.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a4/Mlet_convent.JPG License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims). Original artist: No machine-readable author provided. Andres rus assumed (based on copyright claims). File:Motovun,_Istria,_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ee/Motovun%2C_Istria%2C_Croatia. jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Nbos at wts wikivoyage


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File:Motovun,_Istria,_Croatia_9075.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/29/Motovun%2C_Istria%2C_ Croatia_9075.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Nbos at wts wikivoyage File:Msu-museum-contemporary-art-zagreb-2.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/11/ Msu-museum-contemporary-art-zagreb-2.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Myriam Thyes File:NE_PRILAZITE_-_NA_OVOM_PODRUCJU_JE_VELIKA_OPASNOST_OD_MINA_(Hrvatska,_7_Travanj_2007).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/ff/NE_PRILAZITE_-_NA_OVOM_PODRUCJU_JE_VELIKA_ OPASNOST_OD_MINA_%28Hrvatska%2C_7_Travanj_2007%29.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Modzzak File:Narodni_trg_Zadar.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/ee/Narodni_trg_Zadar.jpg License: CC BYSA 2.5 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Böhringer Friedrich File:Old_bridge_-_Sisak.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/51/Old_bridge_-_Sisak.jpg License: CCBYSA 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: Old bridge - Sisak Original artist: prkos File:Old_city_Varazdin.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e7/Old_city_Varazdin.jpg License: CC-BYSA-3.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV File:Osijek,_Trg_Ante_Starčevića.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/Osijek%2C_Trg_Ante_Star% C4%8Devi%C4%87a.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: I would appreciate being notified if you use my work outside Wikimedia. File:Osijek,_Županijska,_chrám_(celý).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e8/Osijek%2C_%C5% BDupanijska%2C_chr%C3%A1m_%28cel%C3%BD%29.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: I would appreciate being notified if you use my work outside Wikimedia. File:Pabellón_del_Arte,_Zagreb,_Croacia,_2014-04-20,_DD_02.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ a0/Pabell%C3%B3n_del_Arte%2C_Zagreb%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-20%2C_DD_02.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diego Delso File:Palace_Hotel_Zagreb.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/49/Palace_Hotel_Zagreb.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: (WT-en) HappyV at English Wikivoyage File:Plitvicai5.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8f/Plitvicai5.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: M.Dirgėla File:Plitvice-2003.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f7/Plitvice-2003.JPG License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Roybb95 File:Plitvice_Lakes,_Croatia,_Galovac_jezero.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/67/Plitvice_ Lakes%2C_Croatia%2C_Galovac_jezero.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Michal Klajban (Hikingisgood.com) File:Plitvice_Lakes,_Croatia,_Galovac_jezero_(5).JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/Plitvice_ Lakes%2C_Croatia%2C_Galovac_jezero_%285%29.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Michal Klajban (Hikingisgood.com) File:Poreč019.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/58/Pore%C4%8D019.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work (own photo) Original artist: Georges Jansoone JoJan File:Pozdrav_Suncu_090724-224658-IMG_5359.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Pozdrav_ Suncu_090724-224658-IMG_5359.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Vadp File:Puerta_de_Piedra,_Zagreb,_Croacia,_2014-04-20,_DD_02.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/ 7d/Puerta_de_Piedra%2C_Zagreb%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-20%2C_DD_02.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diego Delso File:Pula,_Zlatna_vrata.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/38/Pula%2C_Zlatna_vrata.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: ? Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Handrian at wts wikivoyage File:Pula,_forum.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f8/Pula%2C_forum.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: ? Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Handrian at wts wikivoyage File:Punat_and_in_the_background_the_Bay_of_Punat.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bd/Punat_ and_in_the_background_the_Bay_of_Punat.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Souvenir at wts wikivoyage File:Pustinja_blaca_03_panzoom.png Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/2c/Pustinja_blaca_03_panzoom. png License: Public domain Contributors: Transferred from hr.wikipedia to Commons by Roberta F. using CommonsHelper. Original artist: Kork at Croatian Wikipedia File:RJK_12092010_terminal.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/ba/RJK_12092010_terminal.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Pilot320 File:Rab_SChristopher.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/76/Rab_SChristopher.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: Alexandre Albore (Ruthven)

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CHAPTER 84. VRBNIK File:Rijeka-04.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4e/Rijeka-04.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: László Szalai (Beyond silence) File:Rijeka-08.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Rijeka-08.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: László Szalai (Beyond silence) File:Rijeka-view-2.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/14/Rijeka-view-2.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: László Szalai (Beyond silence) File:Rijeka064.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/97/Rijeka064.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work (own photo) Original artist: Georges Jansoone JoJan File:Roads_in_the_island_of_Vis_in_Dalmatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Roads_in_the_ island_of_Vis_in_Dalmatia.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Ownwork Original artist: User: (WT-shared)Foice at wts wikivoyage File:Roman_ruins_in_Sisak.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/84/Roman_ruins_in_Sisak.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Andres rus File:Rovinj.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/73/Rovinj.jpg License: CCBY-SA2.0 Contributors: ? Original artist: ? File:RovinjStreetNight_flip666.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4d/RovinjStreetNight_flip666.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: Philipp Schäufele - User: (WT-shared) Flip666 at wts wikivoyage File:Rovinj_07.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/26/Rovinj_07.JPG License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: David Orlovic File:Rovinj_sunset.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cd/Rovinj_sunset.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Matrobriva File:Roški_Slap.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Ro%C5%A1ki_Slap.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Roški Slap, Krka National Park, Croatia Original artist: Maximovich Nikolay File:Sali,_Dugi_Otok_160928-200119-DSC03325.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/3e/Sali%2C_ Dugi_Otok_160928-200119-DSC03325.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Tatyana Peshkova File:Sali,_Dugi_Otok_160929-140745-DSC03379.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cc/Sali%2C_ Dugi_Otok_160929-140745-DSC03379.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Tatyana Peshkova File:Samobor_main.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8e/Samobor_main.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: (WT-en) Userfriendly at English Wikivoyage File:Sermage_Palace_Varazdin.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/27/Sermage_Palace_Varazdin.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV File:Sibenik_-_Flickr_-_jns001_(16).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ca/Sibenik_-_Flickr_-_jns001_ %2816%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Sibenik Original artist: János Tamás File:Sisak,_Croatia_-_panoramio_(1).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c2/Sisak%2C_Croatia_-_ panoramio_%281%29.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: http://www.panoramio.com/photo/67784591 Original artist: igor kis File:Sisak,_západ_slunce.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/13/Sisak%2C_z%C3%A1pad_slunce.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: I would appreciate being notified if you use my work outside Wikimedia. File:Sisak_Holy_cross_church.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/Sisak_Holy_cross_church.JPG License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Darko Tepert Donatus File:Sisak_by_the_river.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e6/Sisak_by_the_river.JPG License: CCBY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Donatus (Darko Tepert) File:Sisak_fortress,_inside.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/ba/Sisak_fortress%2C_inside.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Andres rus File:Sisak_touristic_train.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/4/4d/Sisak_touristic_train.JPG License: CCBY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Donatus (Darko Tepert) File:Small_boat_under_a_huge_rock.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/Small_boat_under_a_huge_ rock.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: MALÁ LOĎKA PODOBROVSKOU SKALOU- LITTLEBOATUNDER HUGE ROCK Original artist: ANDREJ NEUHERZ File:SplitHarbour.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/70/SplitHarbour.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - (WT-en) Elgaard at English Wikivoyage File:SplitRiva.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/SplitRiva.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - (WT-en) Elgaard at English Wikivoyage File:Split_080620-133710-IMG_0968x.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/ab/Split_ 080620-133710-IMG_0968x.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Tatyana Peshkova File:Split_IMG_8103.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/0f/Split_IMG_8103.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Hedwig Storch File:Srebrena_beach.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/18/Srebrena_beach.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Foice at wts wikivoyage


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File:Srebrena_beach_in_Vis_island_in_Dalmatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/36/Srebrena_ beach_in_Vis_island_in_Dalmatia.jpg License: Public domain Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Foice at wts wikivoyage File:St_Marks_Church_Zagreb.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f5/St_Marks_Church_Zagreb.jpg License: CC BY 3.0 Contributors: Own work by uploader, created using a Sony alpha 700, perspective correction using hugin Original artist: Alexander Klink File:StariGradHarbour.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/StariGradHarbour.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - User: (WT-shared) Elgaard at wts wikivoyage File:StariGradSt.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/02/StariGradSt.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - User: (WT-shared) Elgaard at wts wikivoyage File:Ston-SK.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e3/Ston-SK.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Lubenica File:Teatro_Nacional,_Zagreb,_Croacia,_2014-04-20,_DD_03.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/cd/ Teatro_Nacional%2C_Zagreb%2C_Croacia%2C_2014-04-20%2C_DD_03.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Diego Delso File:The_bells_of_Zadar_Bell_Tower.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/1e/The_bells_of_Zadar_Bell_ Tower.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rangan Datta Wiki File:Theatre_of_Ivan_pl._Zajc,_Rijeka.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a0/Theatre_of_Ivan_pl. _Zajc%2C_Rijeka.jpg License: CC-BY-SA-3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Djoko File:Town_centre_of_Motovun,_Istria,_Croatia_9082.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/03/Town_ centre_of_Motovun%2C_Istria%2C_Croatia_9082.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Nbos at wts wikivoyage File:Trg_kralja_Tomislava_Varazdin.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/07/Trg_kralja_Tomislava_ Varazdin.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Self-photographed Original artist: User:(WT-en) HappyV File:Trip_to_Croatia-Day_6-Zadar-Sibenik_4_(2240547511).jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/19/ Trip_to_Croatia-Day_6-Zadar-Sibenik_4_%282240547511%29.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Trip to Croatia-Day 6-ZadarSibenik 4 Original artist: Coralie Ferreira File:TrogirHarbour.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/63/TrogirHarbour.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - User: (WT-shared) Elgaard at wts wikivoyage File:TrogirTower.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8d/TrogirTower.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - User: (WT-shared) Elgaard at wts wikivoyage File:TrogirView.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/ca/TrogirView.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen - User: (WT-shared) Elgaard at wts wikivoyage File:Umag-P9170114.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/Umag-P9170114.jpg License: CC-BY-SA3.0 Contributors: No machine-readable source provided. Own work assumed (based on copyright claims). Original artist: No machinereadable author provided. Marianocecowski assumed (based on copyright claims). File:Umag_from_beach_5.JPG Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/82/Umag_from_beach_5.JPG License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Peko File:Veruda_Marina.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/Veruda_Marina.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: I Marek.69 created this work entirely by myself. Original artist: Marek.69 File:View_at_Mimara_Museum_from_Westin_Zagreb.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/15/View_ at_Mimara_Museum_from_Westin_Zagreb.jpg License: CC BY 2.0 Contributors: Flickr: Mimara Museum Original artist: JasonParis File:View_from_Bell_Tower,_Zadar,_Croatia.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/5/53/View_from_Bell_ Tower%2C_Zadar%2C_Croatia.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Rangan Datta Wiki File:View_on_Krapina.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/76/View_on_Krapina.jpg License: CC-BYSA-3.0 Contributors: taken by author, sl:Image:DSC01357.JPG Original artist: Mich973 File:Views_of_the_surrounds_of_Motovun,_Istria,_Croatia_9079.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/ 36/Views_of_the_surrounds_of_Motovun%2C_Istria%2C_Croatia_9079.jpg License: CC BY-SA 4.0-3.0-2.5-2.0-1.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: User: (WT-shared) Nbos at wts wikivoyage File:VrboskaHvar.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/11/VrboskaHvar.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: Own work Original artist: Niels Elgaard Larsen File:Vrulje.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Vrulje.jpg License: CC BY-SA 3.0 Contributors: panoramio Original artist: Lamberto Zannotti File:Waterfall_in_plitvicka_romanceor_5.jpg Source: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/93/Waterfall_in_ plitvicka_romanceor_5.jpg License: GFDL Contributors: Own work Original artist: This photo was taken by Roman Bonnefoy ( Romanceor [parlons-en] ).

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