Copy Your Garments With Precision

Copy Your Garments with Precision With a flexible ruler, you can capture t h e s h a p e of a ny gar me nt aga i n a nd aga i n BY JEAN HAAS

hen t comes o replicang and outining any curved shape, you really can't bea the wonderl propertes of a lexble ruler Ts ruer with an inner lead core comes in a vare of szes and can conour almos anything Tink of all the times you coud have used a tool hat could copy the shape of what you were worng on so tha you could then ransform it nto a la patern Well a lexble ruler does jus tha So now you don't have to resort to apping wres or coat hangers around your paerns o capture he shapes ha you've always waned. You can simply use an assorment of lexible rulers o qucy and easly do a precse and more professional job for all your patern wor Flexible rulers come in lengths om 16 to 4 inches and are bendable, pliable, tistable, and, well, lexible. A lexible rler has a measuring tape ithin the plastic coating on each si de of it; one side gives measurements in inches and the other in centimeters When you are outlining a shape, this mltifaceted tool allows you to also measure the shape's length and add seam allowances to it at the same time Tese rulers are especially usel for copying very precise curves, shapes, and sizes. Imagine, taking anything threedimensional and turning it into a lat pattern quickly and easily Just contour the inner edge of therler against the outer edge of the shape you want replicated and trace. ts really that imple.

Adding Seam Allowances Te dimensions of the lexible ruler itself can also be an aid to your patternmaking. Sinc e it measures % inch wide when lying lat or J inch wide when on its side, it can easily alter your pattern by those dimensions. Just hold the lexible ruler on its s ide and it will add a clean

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FLEX IB E RU LE RS

-inch seam allowance as it outlines any shape it's replicatin By turnin it over and layin it lat aainst your seamline you can instantly add a -inch seam allowance to all of your pattern's seamlines

Before you start, remember the se tips When usin the ruler aainst the body or any pattern seamlines remember to lay the side fac in the inches measurements next to the shape that you are followin Since the idth of the ruler is  inch, you'll want to record the measure ment side that is closest to the body; otherwise you will increase the dimensions you are measur in by  inch If you prefer centimeters then just lip it over to the other side and lay the metric portion aainst the shape to et that readin as well. You will nd it easy to outline around the ruler with a marker, as its plastic outer shell is water proof. This is another convenient feature when usin water-soluble pens

Get creative with you r projects Change your patterns and more with each size of ruler. USE A 40-INCH flEXIB LE RULER T O D E S I G N B E AU T I F U L N E C K LI N E S

o make a pl ung ing back Vneck, wrap the ends of a 4-inch flexibe ruer together with a rub ber band. Then position the rul er around the nec kline with the ends i n the back . Let the ruler gracefully shape where it naturally fal s. Trace the desired shape onto your m usli n o r tissue pattern

You'  nd a l sorts of surprising uses The list of uses for lexible rulers oes on and on (n fact dont be surprised if it shows up in your husbands toolbox!) Tey are available in a variet oflenths each oerin its own special nctions er worin with these wonderl tools for the past 15 years d ove to share these secrets with you.

Trace the desired shape

Position the ruler around the neckline.

USE A 24INCH flEXIBLE RULER TO POSITION BRA STRAPS

Use a 4o-inch ruler for arge shapes Ty thes e folloin suestions: Create crotch curves for plus sizes. Plus sizes include curves loner than 3 inches. Design beautul longer necklines. Use it for both the ont and back such as V-neclines (shown at riht) and boat neclines Establish princess line seams when tissuetting Start by alinin one end of your lexible ruler at the midpoint of the shoulder and continue down until you intersect the bust point Simply draw in a perfect princess line seam Copy longer collars When copyin loner shaped collars like a shawl collar wrap one end of the lexible ruler aainst the collar's center-back seam and follow the ruler alon the shape of your collar. When you have outlined the whole shape conti n u e d • H 50

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Reposition fal lin g bra straps by placing your flexible rul er to where it feels comfortable on your shoulders The ruler will instantly conform to provide the strap's correct position on your body. Mark where the r ule r intersects the back of the br a an d reposition your strap. No more fall ing bra straps!

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USE A 32-IN CH FLEXIBL E RUL ER TO COPY CURVES FROM YOUR FAVORITE PAIR O F PANTS

Turn the pants nsi de out. Place one pant leg inside the ot her to reveal the i nside of the crotch curve. Pin to anchor at the wastli ne so that the curve doesn't shif. hen ay the i nches side of the flexible ruler along the seamlne of th e pants an d record the front crotch measurement (the distance along the curve from front waist to ins eam). On your pattern, start the ruler a t zero at the centerfront wais t and alter the front crotchn seam ts sue to meet the front length meas urement . Pin the tssue pattern inseam together at the new crotch point.

Lay the ruler along th e inside seam.

Alter the front curve of the tissue patte to meet the front length measurement. Pin the tissue pattern nseam together.

Align your newly sha ped flexble ruler onto your tissue pattern and draw in the rest ofthe crotch seam (us e the  nside ofthe ruler). Mark the new seami ne followng the flexible curve then add seam al lowances to it. Above: Mark seamlines on the tissue patte Le Draw in the rest of the curve.

USE A 16-INCH FL EXI BLE RULER TO E NHANCE YO UR JEWELRY

Customdesign a neckine to showcase your jewelry. Put your jewelry on with your chose n garment, and mark equidistant from your neckl ace to your new preferred necki ne. Pla ce the flexible ruler at the markings. The ruler wil ho ld the shape while you draw in your new neckl ne. Your jewelry i s now enh anced by your new neckline.

SOURCES DressFormDesigning.com FlexibleRuers.com JoAnn.com

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2007

flX IB L RU L RS

 the clla with the ule, gently li it  the shape yuve just cpied and tace the utline nt anthe paen. Chnge longe coll o neckline width Decease  incease any necline  clla width while still keeping its iginal shape. Lay the lexible ule n the utside edge  the clla  neckline t dwnsize  incease m the ule's edge and tace a new edge Replicte hpe fo home dec F a wing chai  cuch lay the le against the seamline and align the ule t llw the shape  the cuved egin  yu ing chai. Cae lly li  the shaped ule and tanse that shape t a patten

necline and tanseing that shape nt yu patens.

Use a 24inch ruer for sma lle r projects Navigate snug spts with these ideas: Outline hote cotch cuve Use  ctch cuves up t 24 inches lng. Poition b tp y this tick n custm bas   alteing eady-t-wea bas (see the example n p. 0). Outline nd eize mhole up to

Use a 32inch ruler for misize projects When yu pject is medium size take these tips: Outline cotch cuve fo medium ize Use this  cuve lengths up t 32 inches (see p.1). Tue in longe ptten emline piece fo longe too D yu seamlines lk like zigzag pin makings n yu tissue ae patten tting? Just lay the inne edge  yu lexible ule n its side t mimic yu newly alteed utline Yu ule will cect and blend the uneven pin makings. Daw in yu newly tued seamline. Dn't get t use the ute edge  the ule t instantly utline a clean �-in ch seam allwance. Shpe yoke on jcket, bloue n d vet F a westen yke, l k n the than yu exible le. Just m the ule int the desied shape and tace it n the nt and back  yu paens. Mak ntches cut the paen apat, and add seamlines t the cut edges Poition U-neckline cuved neckline nd bot neckline ts easy t play aund with shapes  yu necklines Yu can tuly custmize t he shape and psitin  all yu neclines by laying the lexible ule aund yu 52

HRADS

4 inche When tying t pattent yu

amhles  all yu sleeveless ga ments wap the lexible cuve aund yu amscye (amhle). Align the ule vetically at the shulde tip and cn tinue dn and aund yu undeam. Then, tace the utline and yuve in stantly ed yu pattes amhle and shulde widths cectly t yu bdy Mke cutom ht Since mst adult heads ae less than 24 inches, yu can easily eplicate a head shape. Wap the inne edge  the ule aund the aea whee the hat will "sit and gently li  the shaped le nt paten pape. ace aund the inne ptin  the shape  yu need t knw the ttal ci cumeence measuements it ill shw that at the same time. Downize leeve cp to t ptte mhole Yu can easily decease the

excess amunt  abic in a sleeve cap when yu have t much ease Just cntu the lexible ule aund the seamline at the tp  the sleeve cap. Recd the length. Simply slide dn the aleady shaped ule just beeen the sleeve ntches the amunt that yu need t decease the excess llness, and etace the iginal cuve  the sleeve head.

Use a 16 -inch ru er for tiny projects This smallest ule is  navigating supetight places Outline cicumfeence ofneck line Ceate new custm neclines n pattens and enhance yu jew ely (see the example n p. 1). Outline hpe nd width ofb cup fo b mking When making custm ba paens, cmpae and/ eplicate yu ba cup shape ith the lexible ule. Mke quick-nd-ey mitten nd lippe ptte outline Shape the lexible le aund yu hand  t t make mitens  slippes. Mke ptte fo doll Shape and ceate yu wn dll pattens Cete unique pocket hpe Yu can add inteesting shapes t the bt tms  tps  yu pckets. Kids lve pckets that elect thei hand's shape. Just lay thei hand n patten pape and shape the ule aund thei hand's ut line. Add a seam allwance by utlining the ute edge  the shape Shpe yoke on pnt nd kit  add shapes and designs t the smalle yked paens  pants and skits, just psitin � yu desied shaped utline m yu lexible ule nt yu pattens. ace ntch, cut and add seam allwances t each  the cut edges. These ae just a ew  the eats  lex ible ules. With these secets and a litle � imaginatin, lexible ules will likely � becme yu avite ntin. � Jean Haas the a uthor ofmany DVs, CDs, and onine casses, ives in Ilinois.

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