#P551 - Ameria’s Pride Fretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorian elegance. 28”H x 16”W. Requires a 3 1/2” clock insert.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
Top Assembly
N #P551 - America’s Pride Fretwork Clock Instructions
I I P J
M J
12
O
9 3 6
L Q
K
H
R #P551 - America’s Pride Fretwork Clock
GREAT AMERICAN DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM #P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. Assemble by first attaching the sides to the Front and Back. Next attach the Front and Side Overlays. Then attach the Bottom Floor and the Spacer. 5. Now attach the Window Panels to the Front Panel, along with the remaining Spacer. Then attach the Back Panel. Lower this assembly over the Spacer on the Bottom Floor and secure in place. Then attach the Top Floor Spacer into position, and attach the Top Floor to the Front & Back Panel assembly. Now, assemble the Top Windows to the Clock Panel Front. Carefully insert the Side and Front Fence tabs into position, and then attach the Clock Panel Back. Lower this assembly over the Top Floor Spacer and secure in place. Next, attach the Top Roofs and Crest, and the Clock Overlays.
Bottom Assembly R
F F
S
G F
R
E
B B
A
C D
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551 - America’s Pride Fretwork Clock Description Base Front & Back Side Front Overlay Side Overlay Bottom Floor Front & Back Panel Window Panel Top Floor Clock Panel Front & Back Top Window Side Fence Front Fence Clock Overlay Crest Top Window Overlay Top Roof Top Floor Spacer Spacer Bottom Window Overlay
Item Qty A 1 each B 2 C 1 D 2 E 1 F 2 G 2 H 1 1 each I J 2 K 2 L 1 M 2 N 1 O 2 P 2 Q 1 R 2 S 2
Size 1/4”T x 5”W x 15”L 1/4”T x 5”W x 7 1/2”L 1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 15 1/4”L 1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 8”L 3/8”T x 8 3/4”W x 16 1/2”L 1/4”T x 9 1/2”W x 14 1/2”L 1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 9 1/2”L 3/8”T x 6 1/2”W x 14 1/2”L 1/4”T x 10 1/2”W x 13”L 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 3/8”L 1/8”T x 2”W x 3 1/2”L 1/8”T x 2”W x 8 1/4”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 3/4”W x 7 1/2”L 1/4”T x 9 1/2”W x 15 1/4”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 2”W x 3 3/4”L 1/4”T x 4 7/8”W x 7 1/4”L 1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 7”L 1/4”T x 3 13/16”W x 7”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 5/16”W x 7 1/2”L
Base Front & Back (A)
Pattern overlap line
Side (B)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Right pattern piece.
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
Side (B)
Use glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Left pattern piece.
Base Front & Back (A)
Small dashed lines indicate placement of Front Overlay (C) on Base Front only.
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Small dashed line indicates placement of Side Overlay (D)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Side (B)
Stock: 1/8” Left pattern piece.
Front Overlay (C)
Stock: 1/8” Right pattern piece.
Front Overlay (C)
Use glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side (B) Side Overlay (D)
Side Overlay (D) Side (B)
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/8”, cut 2. Attach with glue.
Side Overlay (D)
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Front & Back Panel (F) Stock: 1/4”, 1/4” cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Slot for Window (G).
#P551
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails. The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front & Back Panel (F) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each Right pattern piece. Note: Door panel can be cut as an overlay with contrasting woods, or predrill for hinges before sawing out door from Panel (F). Omit cut-out for door panel on Back (F) Pattern overlap line #P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Back
Pattern overlap line
Bottom Floor (E)
Attach Spacer (R) here with glue and finishing nails.
Side Overlay (D) Side (B)
Bottom Window (G)
Stock: 3/8” Cut on solid outside line. Left pattern piece.
Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Note: dashed lines indicate placement of Back (A) and Back Panel (F).
Bottom Floor (E)
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line Note: Dashed lines for (F) & (G) indicate placement on top of Floor (E).
Bottom Window (G)
Stock: 3/8” Cut on solid outside line. Middle pattern piece.
Front & Back Door Panel (F)
Front (A) Front Overlay (C) Front
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bottom Floor (E)
Side (B) Side Overlay (D)
Pattern overlap line
Bottom Window (G)
Stock: 3/8” Cut on solid outside line. Right pattern piece.
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Window Panel (G) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Slot for Front Panel (F).
Small dashed line indicates placement of Bottom Window Overlay (S). Attach with glue or silicone. Attach to Spacer (R) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front Fence (L)
Clock Panel Fron (I)
Stock: 3/8”, cut 1 Left pattern piece.
Top Floor (H)
Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Front
Clock Panel Back (I)
Attach Top Floo Spacer (Q) here with glue and finishing nails.
Pattern overlap line
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top Window (J)
Side Fence (K)
Stock: 3/8”, cut 1 Right pattern piece.
Top Floor (H)
Side Fence (K) Attach Top Floor Spacer (Q) here with glue and finishing nails.
Top Window (J) 35°
P)
f(
p To
o Ro
Front
Pattern overlap line
Clock Panel Front & Back (I) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Clock Panel Front & Back (I) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each Bottom left pattern piece. Small dashed lines indicate placement of Overlay (M).
Slot for Window (J).
Bore a hole in the Front only to insert the clock of your choice. Be sure of the size opening you need as not all clocks require the same size opening. Pattern overlap line
Cut slot for Side Fence (K).
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Clock Panel Front & Back (I) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each Bottom Right Pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line #P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top Window (J) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Slot for Clock Panel Front (I).
Small dashed line indicates placement of Top Window Overlay (O). Attach with glue or silicone. Cut slot for Front Fence (L)
Attach to Top Floor Spacer (Q) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Side Fence (K) Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Clock Overlay (M)
#P551
Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
Top Window Overlay (O)
Stock: 1/8”
Front Fence (L)
Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Crest (N)
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Attach to Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Crest (N)
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
#P551
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Top Roof (P) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Attach Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Roof Front
Cut at 35°
Cut at 35°
Top Floor Spacer (Q) Stock 1/4” Attach to top of Top Floor (H) with glue and finishing nails.
#P551 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Spacer (R)
#P551
Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
Bottom Window Overlay (S)
Stock 1/4” Attach to top of Bottom Floor (E) with glue and finishing nails.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568- Birmingham Pendulum Clock Requires a pendulum movement kit (#A309 - #A312). 37”H x 16”W
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P568 Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Top Window Panels (C) and Top Floor Spacer (U) to the Clock Panel Front (A). Next, attach the Clock Panel Back (A). Now, glue this assembly into position on the Top Floor (S). Note: screw or finishing nails can also be used if desired. Then attach the Bottom Window Panels (K) and Bottom Floor Spacers (V) to the Front Panel (I). Next, attach the Back Panel (I). Now attach this assembly to the bottom of the Top Floor (S), and the top of the Bottom Floor (R), securing with glue. Now, attach the Pendulum Bracket (P) and Bottom Brackets (BB) into place. Attach the Door Assembly (L), Windows (D & J), Steps (W), Dial Underlays (Q & EE), Door Overlay (FF) and Overlay (DD) into position. Now, attach the Rail Brackets (O) into place in the Front Panel (I) and Bottom Window Panels (K). Next, glue the Bottom Front Brackets (X) to the Front Panel (I), along with the Lower Brackets (T) to the Front and Back Panels (I). Follow the same procedure to attach the corresponding Brackets (H & CC) to the Clock Panel Front and Back (A). Should the Brackets fit too tight on the Floors, sand slightly. At this time, attach the Front and Side Rails (Z & AA) to the Top and Bottom Floors (S & R). Then attach the Door Roof (N) and Door Crest (M) into place securing with glue. Now, attach the Roof (Y) to the top of the Clock Panel ( A) assembly, and the Crest (B) to the front of the Roof (Y). Next, secure the Deer (F) and Trees (G) into place on the Crest Top (E), and then secure this assembly to the Crest (B). Finish as desired. Attach the clock movement. Hang the pendulum rod from the movement and adjust the length by breaking off sections in 1” increments.
F
G
G
E
B Y
Y
FF A D
H Q
EE
C
CC 12 3
9 6
AA U
S
Z V O
T
X I
M N L
J
AA
K R
GREAT AMERICAN
V W
Z
P BB
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
#P568
DD #P568 - The Birmingham Clock
#P568 THE BIRMINGHAM CLOCK Description Clock Panel Front & Back Crest Top Window Panel Top Window Crest Top Deer Tree Front Bracket Front & Back Panel Bottom Window Bottom Window Panel Door Assembly Door Crest Door Roof Rail Bracket Pendulum Bracket Dial Underlay Bottom Floor Top Floor Lower Bracket Top Floor Spacer Bottom Floor Spacer Steps Bottom Front Bracket Roof Front Rail Side Rail Bottom Bracket Upper Bracket Overlay Dial Underlay Door Overlay
item Qty A 1 each B 1 C 2 D 2 E 1 F 1 G 2 H 2 1 each I 2 J K 2 1 L M 1 N 2 O 8 P 1 Q 1 R 1 S 1 T 4 U 1 V 2 W 1 X 2 Y 2 Z 2 AA 4 BB 2 CC 4 DD 1 EE 1 FF 1
Size 1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 10 7/8”L 1/4”T x 7 3/4”W x 14 5/8”L 1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 8 1/8”L 1/16 ” - 1/8”T x 2 3/16”W x 5 1/8”L 1/4”T x 2 5/8”W x 8 1/8”L 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 1/4”L 1/4”T x 3 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L 1/4”T x 1 1/2”W x 8”L 1/4”T x 8 11/16”W x 10 7/16”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 2 13/16”W x 6 5/8”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 10 1/2”L 1/4”T x 7”W x 7 1/8”L 1/4”T x 5 1/8”W x 7”L 1/4”T x 1”W x 3”L 1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 2 3/8”L 1/4”T x 6 7/8”W x 12 3/4”L 1/8”T x 6 1/4”W x 6 1/4”L 1/4”T x 6”W x 14 1/2”L 1/4”T x 6”W x 14 1/2”L 1/4”T x 4”W x 10 1/2”L 1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/16”L 1/4”T x 1”W x 7 7/8”L 1/4”T x 1 1/2”W x 10 5/8”L 1/4”T x 5 1/2”W x 7 3/8”L 1/8”T x 2”W x 16”L 1/8”T x 2”W x 6”L 1/4”T x 1 3/4”W x 4 1/8”L 1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/4”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 3 5/8”L 1/8”T x 5 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 1/4”W x 3 3/8”L
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach to Top Window Panel with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Drill hole for clock shaft.
Dashed line indicates placement of Door (FF).
Pattern overlap line Dashed line indicates placement of Clock Underlay (EE).
Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each. Top pattern piece.
Clock Panel Front & Back (A)
Small dashed lines indicate placement of Underlay (Q). Top Window Panel (C)
Top Window Panel (C)
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
Top Window (D)
Tree
Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece.
Stock 1/4”
Adjust slots, if necessary, for thickness of material used.
Deer
Top Floor Spacer (U)
Attach to Crest (B) with glue or silicone.
Crest Top (E)
Clock Panel Front & Back (A)
Pattern overlap line Drill hole for clock Dashed line indicates shaft. placement of Clock Underlay (EE). Note: Cut a 4” diameter hole in Back (A). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
Tree
x 18 # nd ea u l g th wi t ron fF o Ro to h tac At
. ils na g n shi if ni ” 5/8
Stock 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Crest (B)
Pattern overlap line
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top Window Panel (C) Stock 1/4”, cut 2
tt
Pa ve
ern o rla p e
lin
C
S re Ri tock st gh 1 (B t p /4” ) att ern pie ce .
Dashed line indicates placement of Top Window.
Top Floor Spacer (U)
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/4”
Deer (F) Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Tree (G)
Front Bracket (H) Stock 1/4”, cut 2
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Cut Door opening and Roof slots in Front Panel (I) only.
Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each. For Back cut only on outside solid line. Top pattern piece.
Dashed line indicates placement of Door Assembly (L).
Attach Rail Bracket (O) here. Cut slots in Front Panel only.
Attach Bottom Window Panel (K) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Front & Back Panel (I)
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Dashed lines indicate placement of Roof (N).
Pattern overlap line
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Step (W) goes here
Attach to Bottom Floor Spacer (V) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each. For Back cut only on outside solid line. Bottom pattern piece.
Front & Back Panel (I)
Pattern overlap line
Bottom Window (J)
Stock 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Bottom Window Panel (K) Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Dashed line indicates placement of Bottom Window.
Pattern overlap line
Dashed line indicates placement of Bottom Window.
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Attach Rail Bracket (O) here.
Pattern overlap line #P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Please note: it may be necessary to sand the inside edges of the Door so that it will open and close more easily.
Use knobs or dowels of your choice.
Use your choice of hinges.
Door Assembly (L) Stock 1/4”
Side view of Door Roof (N) 33° Top
Door Roof (N)
Stock 1/4”
Rail Bracket (O) Stock 1/8”, cut 8 #P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Door Crest (M) Stock 1/4” Attach Door Crest to Door Roof with #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Pendulum Bracket (P)
Pattern overlap line
Bracket (BB)
Stock 1/4”. Left pattern piece.
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (DD)
Stock 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Pendulum Bracket (P)
Bracket (BB)
Pattern overlap line
Dashed line indicates placement of Clock Overlay (EE).
Dial Underlay (Q) Stock: 1/8”
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Back Panel (I)
Stock 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Side Rail (AA)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Left pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Bottom Floor (R)
Cut on solid line for Pendulum.
Front Pan
Step (W)
Front Rai
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front Rail (Z)
Step (W)
Front Panel (I)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Right pattern piece.
Back Panel (I) Cut on these lines for Bottom Floor Spacer (V).
Bottom Floor Spacer (V)
Pendulum Bracket (P)
Stock 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Bottom Floor (R)
Pendulum Bracket (P)
Side Rail (AA)
Bottom Window Panel (K)
Pattern overlap line
Stock 1/4”, cut on outer solid line. Left pattern piece.
Top Floor (S)
Front Front Rail (Z)
Clock Panel Front (A)
Note: check opening for pendulum movement you are using.
Clock Panel Front (A) Cut on Solid line for Pendulum.
Cut on these lines for Top Floor Spacer (U).
Stock 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Top Floor Spacer (U)
Clock Panel Back (A)
Pattern overlap line
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top Window Panel (C)
Side Rail (AA)
Pattern overlap line
te Stoc ps (W k 1/ 4”, c ) ut S
1 ea ch
#P568
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/4”, cut on outer solid line. Right pattern piece.
Top Floor (S)
Stock 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Top Floor Spacer (U)
Side Rail (AA)
Top Window Panel (C)
et ack
(T)
Br 4 er 4”, cut w o 1/
L ock St
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
X)
t( cke
t ron
Bra
F 2 om4”, cut t t o 1/
B ock St
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
34°
Roof (Y) Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Attach to Front & Back (A) with #18 x 5/8” finishing nails and glue.
Top
Side view of Roof (Y)
Front
Bottom Bracket (BB) Stock 1/4”, cut 2
34°
Side Rail (AA) Stock: 1/8”, cut 4 #P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P568 Stock: 1/8”, cut 2 Left pattern piece.
Front Rail (Z)
Attach to front edge of Top & Bottom Floors with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Stock: 1/8”, cut 2 Right pattern piece.
Front Rail (Z)
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Upper Bracket (CC)
Stock 1/4”, cut 4
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Overlay (DD) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Dial Underlay (EE) Stock: 1/8”
Door Overlay (FF) Stock 1/16” - 1/8” Option: cut door at 3° bevel and then glue back in so it extends out.
#P568 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569 - Floral Cathedral A stately 30 1/2”H x 12”W this beautiful fretwork clock offers a display area for your favorite figurine. Requires a 3 1/2” clock insert.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN L L
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
G
H
#P569 Assembly Instructions J
B
D
12 3
9 6
A
C
I
1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Base Side tabs into the Front and Back Base, securing with glue. Finishing nails can also be used if desired. Next, attach the Base Anchors into position. Then attach the Floor to the Base assembly. Now, attach the Sides to the Front and Back along with the 2 Wall Anchors. And attach this assembly to the Floor. Now attach the Spire Sides to the Front and Back Spires, along with the Spire Anchors. Glue this assembly into place on the Ceiling, and then, glue the Ceiling into place. Finish as desired, and insert the clock movement.
K F
E
#P569 - Floral Cathedral Clock
#P569
FLORAL CATHEDRAL CLOCK #P569 Description Item Qty Size Front Back Wall Anchor Side Front & Back Base Base Side Front & Back Spire Spire Side Floor Ceiling Base Anchor Spire Anchor
A B C D E F G H I J K L
1 1 2 2 1 ea 2 1 ea 2 1 1 2 4
1/4”T x 10”W x 16”L 1/4”T x 10”W x 16”L 1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 14”L 1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 15 1/2”L 1/4”T x 5 1/16”W x 9 15/16”L 1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 7 3/8”L 1/4”T x 6 1/4”W x 14 1/2”L 1/4”T x 10”W x 13 1/2”L 1/4”T x 10”W x 12 1/2”L 1/4”T x 6 3/4”W x 8”L 1/4”T x 2”W x 5”L 1/4”T x 1 1/4”W x 12 1/4”L
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Insert Wall Anchor tab here.
Stock: 1/4”. Top pattern piece.
Front (A)
Pattern overlap line
Bore 3” hole for 3 1/2” clock insert.
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Insert Side tab here.
Insert Wall Anchor tab here.
e tab
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Middle pattern piece.
Front (A)
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Insert Side tab here.
Stock: 1/4”. Top pattern piece.
Back (B)
Stock: 1/4” Bottom pattern piece.
Front (A)
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Insert Side tab here.
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Middle pattern piece.
Back (B)
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Wall Anchor (C) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Wall Anchor (C)
Stock: 1/4” Bottom pattern piece.
Insert Side tab here.
Back (B)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.
#P569 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side (D) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
#P569 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Side (D) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569 Side Base (F) Base Anchor (K)
Base Anchor (K) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each
Front & Back Base (E)
Side Base (F) Base Anchor (K)
Base Anchor (K)
Base Side (F) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
) nchor (L Spire A
ire (H) Side Sp
) nchor (L Spire A
Side Sp
ire (H)
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back Spire (G) #P569
Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece. The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Spire Side (H)
) nchor (L Spire A
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Bottom pattern piece. Optional: Sand bottom, inside edges of the Spire Sides, and The Front & Back Spires to sit flush on the Ceiling.
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back Spire (G) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Spire Side (H) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Top pattern piece. Optional: Sand bottom, inside edges of the Spire Sides, and The Front & Back Spires to sit flush on the Ceiling.
#P569 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Insert Back Wall tab here.
Floor (I)
Side (D)
Insert Base Side tab here.
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Adjust slots, if necessary, for the thickness of the material used. Insert Front tab here. Front
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Floor (I)
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Base Anchor (K)
Side (D)
#P569
Insert Base Side tab here.
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P569
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/4”
Ceiling (J)
Spire (G)
Note: Due to the angle of the Spire assembly, it may be necessary to sand the inside and/or outside edges of the tabs to fit in the Ceiling slots easier.
Spire (G)
L)
( or
h nc cut 4 A e ”,
ir 1/4 Sptock: S
#P569 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570 - Leavenworth Requires a pendulum movement kit (#A309 - #A312) 24”H x 14”W
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
D
#P570 - Assembly Instructions C A
C
E
Q A P
L
12 3
9 6
E
H
B N
J M
I
1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front Panel (A) to the Window Panels (B). Then attach the Back Panel (A) and the Spacer (N). Now attach the Floor (M) with glue and / or finishing nails. Proceed to attach the Roof (C) and glue the Side Brackets (E) into position. Next, attach the Crest (D), Dial Underlays (H & P), and the 2 Overlays (L & Q)). Now, attach the clock movement (excluding the pendulum) before proceeding. Lay the clock assembly carefully on it’s front. Attach Bottom (G) into place. Then lay the clock assembly on it’s back to attach the Bottom Brackets (F). Next, attach Bottom (R), Pendulum Overlay (K), Front Fence (I) and Side Fences (J). Hang the pendulum rod from the movement and adjust the length by breaking off sections in 1” increments.
F G
K
R
#P570 - The Leavenworth
GREAT AMERICAN DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM #P570
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back Panel (A) Window Panel (B)
Window Panel (B)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece. Small dashed lines indicate placement of Dial Underlay (P).
Drill for clock shaft.
Note: Cut a 4” diameter hole in Back Panel (A). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
Use glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails to attach Front & Back to Window Panels. Spacer (N)
#P570 - THE LEAVENWORTH Description
#P570
Front & Back Panel Window Panel Roof Crest Side Bracket Bottom Bracket Bottom Dial Underlay Front Fence Side Fence Pendulum Overlay Overlay Floor Spacer Dial Underlay Overlay Bottom
Item Qty A B C D E F G H I J K L M N P Q R
1 ea 2 2 1 4 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1
Size 1/4”T x 7 1/4”W x 10 5/8”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/4”L 1/4”T x 6”W x 7”L 1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 14 1/4”L 1/4”T x 2 1/2”W x 9”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 6 1/2”L 1/4”T x 7 1/4”W x 11 1/2”L 1/8”T x 6 5/8”W x 6 5/8”L 1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 14 1/2”L 1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 6”L 1/16-1/8”T x 4”W x 4”L 1/16-1/8”T x 4”W x 6 3/4”L 1/4”T x 6”W x 12 1/4”L 1/4”T x 4”W x 6 3/4”L 1/8”T x 5 1/4”W x 5 1/4”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 2”L 1/4”T x 5 1/4”W x 4 1/2”L The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front & Back Panel (A) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each Top pattern piece.
Small dashed lines indicate placement of Overlay (L).
Dashed lines indicate placement of Dial Underlay (H).
Pattern overlap line
#P570 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Spacer (N)
Window Panel (B)
Side Bracket (E)
Side Bracket (E)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Spacer (N)
#P570 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
26°
Roof (C)
Top
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Front
Side view of Roof (C)
Adjust slots if necessary for thickness of material used.
26°
#P570 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach Crest to Roof with #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Ro
C) of (
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Crest (D)
Roo f
(C)
Pattern overlap line
#P570
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line (C)
Side Bracket (E) Stock: 1/4”, cut 4
Crest (D)
#P570
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Bottom Bracket (F)
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/4”, top pattern section Right pattern piece.
Bottom (G)
Dashed line indicates placement of Pendulum Overlay (K).
Stock: 1/4”, top pattern section Left pattern piece.
Bottom (G)
Attach to Floor (M) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Pattern overlap line
Bottom Bracket (F)
Bottom Bracket (F)
Dial Underlay (H) Stock 1/8”
Drill for clock shaft.
Pattern overlap line
Side Fence (J)
Dashed line indicates placement of Dial Underlay (P).
Floor (M)
Front Fence (I) Stock: 1/8”. Right pattern piece.
Side Fence (J)
Pattern overlap line
#P570
Front Fence (I) Stock: 1/8”. Left pattern piece. The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Floor (M
Side Fence (J)
Floor (M)
Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (Q).
Overlay (L) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Overlay (Q) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Pendulum Overlay (K) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8” #P570 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P570
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Floor (M)
Bottom (G)
Front (A)
Note: Check opening for pendulum movement you are using.
Cut on these lines for Spacer (N).
Stock: 1/4”
Spacer (N)
Back Panel (A)
Bottom (G)
Pattern overlap line
Window Panel (B)
Window Panel (B)
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Floor (M)
Pattern overlap line
Window Panel (B)
Dial Underlay (P) Stock 1/8”
Drill for clock shaft.
#P570 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Bottom (R) Stock: 1/4”, Glue to bottom of Bottom (G).
#P570
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571 - Victorian Queen Fretwork Clock inspired by 18th century Victorian elegance. 17”H x 21”W. Requires a 3 1/2” clock insert.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
C
C B
W
X
G
CC Z
Z
AA DD T S
Z
X
I F
Z
J BB EE
E
D
R S U
#P571
L
Y H
K
#P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock
V
Q P
N
N M
O
O
M
A
12 3
9 6
#P571 - The Victorian Queen Clock
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571 - The Victorian Queen Description Item Front Frame Back Center Frame Back Side Frame Front Leg 1st Floor 2nd Floor 3rd floor Center Overlay Left Side Panel Right Side Panel Left Overlay Right Overlay Support Collar Support Panel Top Support Panel Support Panel Design End Panel Side Panel End Cap Left End Cap Right End Cap Top Frame Spacer Bottom Frame Spacer Center Cap End Support End Cap Right End Panel Left End Panel Separator Front Frame Support
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N, O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z AA BB CC DD EE
Qty Size 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 ea 1 3 2 4 2 1 1 1 1 2 4 2 1 1 2 1
1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 12 1/2”L 1/4”T x 6 1/4”W x 14 1/2”L 1/4”T x 8 1/4”W x 13”L 1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 12 1/2”L 1/4”T x 4 9/16”W x 15 3/8”L 1/4”T x 4 9/16”W x 15 3/8”L 1/4”T x 4”W x 16”L 1/4”T x 5”W x 7 3/8”L 1/4”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L 1/4”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L 1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 3 1/16”L 1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 3 1/16”L 1/4”T x 3 1/4”W x 4 1/4”L 1/16”T x 1 15/16”W x 4”L 1/16”T x 1 15/16”W x 4”L 1/4”T x 6”W x 7 1/4”L 1/4”T x 2 3/16”W x 2 3/8”L 1/4”T x 1 1/8”W x 2 3/8”L 1/4”T x 13/16”W x 2 3/8”L 1/4”T x 15/16”W x 2 3/8”L 1/4”T x 15/16”W x 2 3/8”L 1/4”T x 2 15/16”W x 12 1/4”L 1/4”T x 1 9/16”W x 12 3/4”L 1/8”T x 9/16”W x 2 3/8”L 1/4”T x 1 1/8”W x 3 3/8”L 1/4”T x 1”W x 3 1/8”L 1/4”T x 3”W x 3 1/2”L 1/4”T x 3”W x 3 1/2”L 1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 3”L 1/4”T x 1/4”W x 4 1/4”L
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571 Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first aligning the two Back Side Frames and the Back Center Frame side by side with their bottoms flush. Then attach the Top Frame Spacer with glue and finishing nails, making sure 1/4” space is left at the top for the 3rd Floor. Next, place the 2nd Floor into position to get the proper spacing for the Bottom Frame Spacer. Place the Bottom Frame Spacer so it butts up against the bottom of the 2nd Floor, and secure the Spacer in place with glue and finishing nails. Now, glue the 3 Floors into position on the above assembly. Next, insert the 2 Legs into position. Check to see that all 4 feet are sitting flush on the table before gluing. Should one not touch, adjust the Front Leg(s) as needed by pulling the top or bottom of the Leg out slightly. Then glue to secure in place. Next, attach the Left and Right Overlays into position on the 1st and 2nd Floors, along with the 2 Center Caps. Then, attach the Center Overlay. Now, attach the 2 Separators to the Left and Right Side Panels. Then glue the Front Frame Support into position behind the Front Frame, and then attach this assembly into place on the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Now, attach the Left and Right Side Panel assemblies into place between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Next, attach 2 End Supports to each of the Right and Left End Panels. Then attach the End Caps to this assembly. Now, glue these assemblies into position between the 2nd and 3rd Floors. Now, glue the 4 Side Panels into place on the ends of the 1st and 2nd Floors. Then, attach the 2 End Caps, the Right and Left End Caps, and the End Panels into place. Now, glue the 2 Support Collars into position, along with the 5 Support Panels. Then, attach the 3 Support Panel Designs into place in the Top Support Panel. Finish as desired, and insert the clock movement.
Front Frame (A) Stock: 1/4”. Top pattern piece. Pattern overlap line
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front Front Frame (A) Frame (A)
Stock: 1/4” Stock: 1/4”. Bottom pattern piece. Pattern overlap line
Top Support Panel (P) Support Collar (M) ) (N nel Pa ort
nel
Pa )
Su
(N
pp
ort
pp
Su
Dashed line indicates placement of Support Collar on backside.
Bore 3” hole for 3 1/2” diameter clock insert.
)
nel Pa ort
(O
pp
nel
Pa
Su
ort
(O
pp
)
Su
Small dashed line indicates placement of Support Panels.
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top Support Panel (P) Support Collar (M) ) (N nel Pa ort
nel
Pa )
(N
Su pp
ort
pp
Su
Dashed line indicates placement of Support Collar on frontside.
Back Center Frame (B) Stock: 1/4” Top pattern piece.
ane rt P pp o Su
)
l (O
ane
rt P
l (O
o pp
)
Su
Small dashed line indicates placement of Support Panels.
3rd Floor
Pattern overlap line #P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Top Frame Spacer (W) goes here.
2nd Floor
Bottom Frame Spacer (X) goes here.
Back Center Frame (B) Stock: 1/4” Bottom pattern piece.
1st Floor
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Back Side Frame (C) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.
2nd Floor
1st Floor
3rd Floor
Dashed lines indicate Bottom Frame Spacer (X)
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
Front Leg (D)
3rd Floor
Dashed line indicates Top Frame Spacer (W)
Back Side Frame (C) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
2nd Floor Bottom Frame Spacer (X)
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line 3rd Floor
2nd Floor
Front Leg (D) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.
1st Floor
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
End Panel (R)
Fr
t on
End Cap (T)
Side Panel (S)
Left End Cap (U)
#P571
Side Panel (S)
g
Le
Center Cap (Y)
Left Overlay (K)
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
1st Floor (E)
Center Overlay (H)
Bottom Frame Spacer (X)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
#P571
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Center Cap (Y)
Right Overlay (L)
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
eg
Fr on tL
End Cap (T) Side Panel (S)
Side Panel (S)
Right End Cap (V)
1st Floor (E)
End Panel (R)
o Fr
nt
eg
L
End Support (Z)
End Support (Z)
Left Side Panel (I)
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
2nd Floor (F)
Separator (DD)
Front Frame (A)
Front Frame Support (EE)
Top Frame Spacer (W)
Pattern overlap line
#P571
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Left End Panel (CC)
End Cap (AA)
Pattern overlap line
#P571
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Right Side Panel (J) Separator (DD)
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
2nd Floor (F) Right End Panel (BB) eg
Fr on tL
End Support (Z)
End Support (Z)
End Cap (AA)
o
Fr
eg
L nt
Front
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
3rd Floor (G)
Top Frame Spacer (W)
Pattern overlap line
#P571
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line t on
Fr g
Le
3rd Floor (G) Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Center Overlay (H) Stock: 1/4”. Attach with glue, and wire brads if needed.
#P571 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Left Side Panel (I)
45° Top view of Left Side Panel (I)
End view of Left Side Panel (I)
Stock: 1/4”
14°
Insert Separator (DD) tab here.
End view of Right Side
Top view of Right Side Panel (I) 45°
Right Side Panel (J)
14°
Stock: 1/4”
45°
#P571
Top view of Left Overlay (K)
Left Overlay (K) Stock: 1/4”
Top view of Right Overlay (L)
45°
Right Overlay (L) Stock: 1/4” The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Support Panel Design (Q) Stock: 1/4”, cut 3
Support Collar (M) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Top Support Panel (P) Stock: 1/16”
End Cap (T) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Top view of Left End Cap (U) 45°
Left End Cap (U) #P571
Stock: 1/4”
Cut 2 on these lines for Support Panel (N).
Top view of Right End Cap (V) 45°
Right End Cap (V) Stock: 1/4”
Cut 2 on these lines for Support Panel (O).
Support Panel (N) & (O) Stock: 1/16”, cut 4 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P571
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Bottom Frame Spacer (X)
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Bottom Frame Spacer (X)
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Top Frame Spacer (W)
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Top Frame Spacer (W)
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
End Support (Z)
End Cap (T, U, V)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 4
Side Panel (S)
End Panel (R)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 4
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Top view of Right End Panel (BB)
Center Cap (Y) Stock: 1/8”, cut 2 45°
Right End Panel (BB)
End Support (Z)
Separator (DD) Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
12°
End Support (Z)
End view Left Panel (CC)
Stock: 1/4”
End Cap (AA) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Sand bottom and top edges to fit into position.
Left End Panel (CC)
#P571
Stock: 1/4”
Front Frame Support (EE)
End Support (Z)
End Support (Z)
45° Top view of Left End Panel (CC)
12°
End view Left Panel (CC)
Stock: 1/4”
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572 - Victorian Lynn Pendulum Clock Feel a sense of accomplishment when you create one of these treasured keepskakes. 34”H x 13”W.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
A
I
I B
#P572 - Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back (B) to the Side Panels (C), then attach the Top Floor Spacer (P). Now, attach the Roofs (I) and the Crest (A). Attach this assembly to Top Floor (H). Now, attach Front and Back (J) to the Side Arches (K). Then, attach the Top and Bottom Spacers (G). Attach this assembly to Bottom Floor (L). And then attach the Top Floor assembly to the Top Spacer (G). Now, attach the Dial Underlays (D) and (O), Top Overlay (E), Back Overlay (Q), Angel Overlay (R), and Front Rails (F) and Side Rails (S). Next, attach the clock movement (excluding the pendulum). Then carefully lay the clock on its front and attach Bottom Bracket (M) into place. Then lay the clock onto its back and attach Center Bracket (N). Now hang the pendulum rod from the movement and adjust the length by breaking off sections in 1” increments.
E D 12
C
O
3
9 6
P
B
S
H
F G R
GREAT AMERICAN Q DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
K
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
J J G S
L
F M
N #P572
#P572 - The Victoria Lynn
#P572 - The Victoria Lynn Description Crest Front & Back Window Panel Dial Underlay Top Overlay Front Rail Top & Bottom Spacer Top Floor Roof Front & Back Side Arch Bottom Floor Bottom Bracket Center Bracket Dial Underlay Top Floor Spacer Back Overlay Angel Overlay Side Rail
Item Qty A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S
1 1 ea 2 1 1 2 1 ea 1 2 1 ea 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 4
Size 1/4”T x 8 1/2”W x 13 1/2”L 1/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 11 3/4”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 8 3/4”L 1/8”T x 6 7/8”W x 6 7/8”L 1/4”T x 5”W x 6 1/4”L 1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 9”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 7 1/2”L 1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 10 1/4”L 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 7 3/4”L 1/4”T x 8”W x 11 1/2”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 11 1/2”L 1/4”T x 6 1/2”W x 10 1/4”L 1/4”T x 6 3/4”W x 8 7/8”L 1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 5 3/8”L 1/8”T x 6 3/8”W x 6 3/8”L 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 7”L 1/8” - 1/4”T x 4 5/8”W x 4 5/8”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 3/4”W x 4 1/4”L 1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 5 3/4”L
#P572 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Crest (A) Stock 1/4” Left pattern piece.
#P572 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Attach to Roof (I) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Crest (A) Stock 1/4” Right pattern piece.
#P572 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back (B) Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each Bottom pattern piece.
Small dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (E).
Side Panel (C)
Side Panel (C)
Dashed line indicates placement of Clock Overlay (D).
Drill for clock shaft
Note: Cut a 4” diameter hole in Back (B). This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
Top Floor Spacer (P)
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front & Back (B) Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back (B) Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each
Small dashed line indicates placement of Overlay (E).
Dial Underlay (D) Stock 1/8”
Drill for clock shaft
#P572 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Window Panel (C) Stock 1/4”, cut 2
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/8”, cut 2
Front Rail (F)
Top Overlay (E)
Stock 1/16” - 1/8”
Note: Sand 45° angle to fit Front and Side Rails together.
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Window Panel (C)
Stock 1/4”
Top Floor (H) Front Rail (F)
Front (B)
Note: adjust pendulum opening if needed.
Cut on solid line for Pendulum.
Cut on these lines for Top Floor Spacer (P).
Stock 1/4”
Top Floor Spacer (P)
Back (B)
Side Rail (S)
Window Panel (C)
Side Rail (S)
Roof (I)
Top
36°
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Front
Side view of Roof (I)
Attach to Front & Back (B) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
36°
#P572 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach Side Arch (K) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Bottom Spacer (G)
Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each. Cut design in Front only. Cut outer rectangle only for Back. Bottom pattern piece.
Front & Back (J)
Note: Adjust pendulum rod so that the bob hangs in this approximate location.
Pattern overlap line
Bottom Spacer (G)
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
Dashed line indicates placement of Back Overlay (Q).
Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each. Cut design in Front only. Cut outer rectangle only for Back. Top pattern piece.
Front & Back (J)
Top Spacer (G)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.
Side Arch (K)
Pattern overlap line
Side Arch (K)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side Arch (K)
Stock 1/4”
Bottom Floor (L)
Bracket (M)
Front Rail (F)
Front (J)
Note: adjust pendulum opening if needed.
Cut on solid line for Pendulum in Top Spacer (G) only.
Cut on these lines for Top & Bottom Spacer (G).
Stock 1/4”, cut 1 each.
Top & Bottom Spacer (G)
Back (B)
Back (B)
Side Rail (S) Side Arch (K)
Stock 1/4”
Bottom Bracket (M)
Center Bracket (N) #P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/8”, cut 4
Side Rail (S)
Note: Sand 45° angle to fit Front and Side Rails together.
Front
Center Bracket (N)
Stock 1/4”
Dial Underlay (O)
Stock 1/8”
Drill for clock shaft.
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Back Overlay (Q) Stock 1/8” - 1/4”
Dashed line indicates placement of Angel Overlay (R).
Angel Overlay (R) Stock 1/16” - 1/8”
#P572
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573 - Bell Tower Towering spires and elegant fretwork combine to make this an eye-catching focal point. 23”H x 19”W. A 3 1/2” clock insert is required.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P573 - Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back (W) to the Sides (X), then add Spacers (Y). Next, attach this assembly to Bottom floor (G). Now attach Front and Back Panel (O) to the Side Windows (Q), and attach the Spacers (P). Then attach Overlays (R) to the Side Windows. Now, attach the Front and Back Panel assembly to the Center Floor (F), and then glue the Center floor to the Base assembly (WXY). Attach Front Walls (H) and Back Walls (I) to The Sides Walls (J). Secure the Wall Anchors (V5) into place, and then secure these assemblies to Center Floor (F). Now, attach Roofs (C) and Center Crest (D) to the Front and Back Gables (B). Attach this assembly to the Top Floor (E). Next, attach Crests (A), Top Side Rails (V3), and Top Front Rail (V6). Then attach the Side Rails (V2), and Side Rails (V4) into place. Now, attach the Front Legs (Z1), and then the Front Rails (V1). Then, attach the Rear Legs (Z2). Attach the Front Walls (S) and Back Walls (T) to the Side Walls (U). Then, attach the Ceilings (N), and Wall Anchors (M). Now, attach the Front and Back Spires (K) to the Side Spires (L), and attach this assembly to the Ceilings. Then, attach this entire assembly to the Top Floor (E). Attach the bells, and finish as desired.
D
A
A
C K
L
N T B S
U
M E
V2 V3
V6 I
P O
R
J
H
Q
O V5
12 3
9 6
V1
F V4
Z2 W X
Y
W
Z1 Y
Z1 V4 V1 G
#P573 - Bell Tower Clock
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
GREAT AMERICAN DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
#P573 - The Bell Tower Description Item Qty Crest Front & Back Gable Roof Center Crest Top Floor Center Floor Bottom Floor Front Wall Back Wall Side Wall Front & Back Spire Side Spire Wall Anchor Ceiling Front & Back Panel Spacer Side Window Overlay Front Wall Back Wall Side Wall Front Rail Side Rail Top Side Rail Side Rail Wall Anchor Top Front Rail Front & Back Side Spacer Front Legs Rear Legs #P573
A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V6 W X Y Z1 Z2
Size
1/4”T x 3”W x 10 1/2”L 2 1/4”T x 5 1/2”W x 6 3/8”L 2 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 6 5/8”L 2 1/4”T x 4 3/4”W x 7 3/8”L 1 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L 1 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L 1 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 16”L 1 1/8”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/2”L 2 1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 7 5/8”L 2 1/8”T x 3 1/4”W x 7 3/8”L 4 2 ea 1/8”T x 2 5/8”W x 4 1/4”L 1/8”T x 1 7/8”W x 4”L 4 1/8”T x 5/8”W x 4”L 8 1/8”T x 3”W x 3 1/8”L 2 1 ea 1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 7 3/8”L 1/4”T x 4”W x 6 7/8”L 2 1/4”T x 4”W x 7 3/8”L 2 1/16”-1/8”T x 2 5/8”W x 6 3/4”L 2 1/8”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 1/4”L 2 1/8”T x 3 5/8”W x 6 1/4”L 2 1/8”T x 3 1/8”W x 6”L 4 1/8”T x 3”W x 15 7/8”L 2 1/8”T x 3”W x 4 3/4”L 2 1/8”T x 3”W x 4 1/2”L 2 1/8”T x 3”W x 5 3/4”L 4 1/8”T x 5/8”W x 7 3/8”L 8 1/8”T x 3”W x 6 1/2”L 1 1 ea 1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 14 1/2”L 1/4”T x 3 7/8”W x 4 1/2”L 2 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 14”L 2 1/4”T x 3 1/8”W x 8 3/8”L 2 1/4”T x 3 5/8”W x 8 3/8”L 2
Center Crest (D) Attach to Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Crest (A) Stock 1/4”, cut 2
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Center Crest (D) ) (C Ro
)
(C
of
of
Ro
Front & Back Gable (B) Stock 1/4”, cut 2 cut design for Front only.
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Top 58°
Roof (C) Stock 1/4”, cut 2. Bevel edge by sanding on a belt sander to fit against Center Crest (D).
Side view of Roof (C)
(B)
(B)
Front
30°
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Crest (A)
Center Crest (D) Stock 1/4” Top of Roof (C)
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side Wall (U)
Top Side Rail (V3)
Stock 1/4”. Left pattern piece.
Top Floor (E)
Front Wall (S)
Front Wall (T)
Side Wall (U) Crest (A)
Front Gable (B)
Back Gable (B)
Rail (V6)
Front
Pattern overlap line
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Roof (C)
Rail (V2)
Pattern overlap line
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/4”. Right pattern piece.
Top Floor (E)
Back Gable (B)
Crest (A)
Side Wall (U) Front Wall (S)
Top Side Rail (V3)
Back Wall (T)
Rail (V2)
Side Wall (U)
Roof (C)
Back Wall (I)
Stock 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Center Floor (F)
Front Wall (H)
Side Wall (J)
Rail V1
Front Panel (O)
Cut on these lines for Spacer (P).
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Left pattern piece.
Spacer (P)
Back Panel (O)
Pattern overlap line
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side Window (Q)
Side Wall (J)
Rail (V4)
Pattern overlap line
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Right pattern piece.
Spacer (P) Back Wall (I)
Front Wall (H)
Side Wall (J)
Stock 1/4”. Right pattern piece.
Center Floor (F)
Rail (V4)
Side Wall (J)
Side Window (Q)
Side (X)
Rail (V4)
Note: Sand angle to fit next to Front Legs
Stock 1/4”. Left pattern piece.
Bottom Floor (G)
Cut on these lines for Spacer (Y).
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Left pattern piece.
Spacer (Y)
Back (W)
Rail V1
Front (W)
Pattern overlap line
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Pattern overlap line
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/4”. Right pattern piece.
Bottom Floor (G)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2 Right pattern piece.
Spacer (Y)
Rail (V4) Side (X)
Front Wall (H)
Insert Wall Anchor tab here.
Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Back Wall (I) Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Wall Anchor (M) Stock: 1/8”, cut 8
Front & Back Spire (K) Stock: 1/8”, cut 2 each
Ceiling (N) Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Side Wall (J) Stock 1/8”, cut 4
Drill for a screw eye to hold bell of your choice.
Stock: 1/8”, cut 4
Spire Side (L)
Front
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Side Window (Q)
Spacer (P)
Front & Back Panel (O) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Cut design and clock insert opening in Front only.
Bore a 3” hole for a 3 1/2 dia. clock insert.
Spacer (P)
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Front Wall (S)
Spacer (P)
Small dashed line indicates placement of overlay (R).
Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Side Window (Q)
Spacer (P)
Back Wall (T)
Side Wall (U)
Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Stock: 1/8”, cut 4
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
Overlay (R) Wall Anchor (M)
#P573 Bottom Floor and Center Floor
Stock 1/8”, cut 2. Right pattern piece.
Front Rail (V1)
Stock 1/8”, cut 2 Left pattern piece.
Front Rail (V1)
Note: Sand angle to fit next to Front Legs
Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
Pattern overlap line
Side Rail (V2)
Stock 1/8”, cut 2
Top Floor (E)
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Sand angle to fit against Front Leg
Wall Anchor (V5)
Side Rail (V4)
Stock: 1/8”, cut 8
Stock 1/8”, cut 4
Front Center Floor (F) & Bottom Floor (G)
Top Side Rail (V3)
Outside edge
Rail (V2)
Stock 1/8”, cut 2
Top Floor (E)
Top Front Rail (V6) Stock 1/8”
Attach Top Floor (E) with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each Note: cut design in Front only. Right pattern piece.
Front & Back (W)
Side (X)
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each Note: cut design in Front only. Left pattern piece.
Front & Back (W)
Front Legs (Z1)
Stock 1/4”, cut 2
#P573
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Spacer (Y)
Spacer (Y)
Pattern overlap line
Side (X)
Rear Leg (Z2) Stock 1/4”, cut 2
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Side (X)
Spacer (Y)
Attach to Floors with glue and #18 x 5/8” finishing nails.
#P573 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P574 - Pendulum Clock 15”H. Order Movement #C131 & Hands #C137 or #C138
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN
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DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
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The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
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#P574 - Eagle Black Forest Clock L
#P574 - Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front to the Sides and Bottom, then attach the Back. Now, attach the Roof pieces. Then, attach the Gable Underlay, Side Overlay and Bottom Overlay into place. Next, attach the Dial and Door. Now, attach the Gable to the Roof, and secure the Leaf Overlay, Leaves, and Eagle into place. Insert the clock movement and secure in place. Finish as desired.
#P574 - The Eagle Black Forest Clock Description Item Qty Front & Back A 1 ea Roof B 6 Gable C 2 Gable Underlay D 2 Side Overlay E 2 Bottom Overlay F 1 Side G 2 Dial H 1 1 Bottom I 1 Eagle J Leaf Overlay K 2 Pendulum L 1 Door M 1 Leaf N 2
Size 1/4”T x 6”W x 10 7/8”L 1/4”T x 2”W x 5”L 1/4”T x 2 3/8”W x 7”L 1/4”T x 1 5/8”W x 5 7/8”L 1/4”T x 2”W x 7 1/4”L 1/4”T x 2 1/8”W x 5 3/8”L 1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 7 3/4”L 1/8”T x 5 1/2”W 5 1/2”L 1/4”T x 3 1/2”W x 5 1/2”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 5”W x 8 3/4”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 4 3/4”W x 8 1/2”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 4”W x 11 1/8”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 2 1/2”W x 5”L 1/8”T x 4 1/8”W x 5 1/8”L
1/4” diameter x 5”L dowel.
f oo
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(B
Pattern overlap line
Front & Back (A) (A) Front & Back #P574
Stock: 1/4”,1/4”, cut 1cut each. Stock: 1 each. Top pattern Bottompiece. pattern piece.
of
Ro
(
Pattern overlap line B)
f(
o Ro
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(B
R
Dashed line indicates placement of Door (M).
Front & Back (A)
Side (G)
Attach Sides (G) with glue and #18 x 5/8” wire brads.
Side (G)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each. Bottom pattern piece.
Dashed line indicates Dial (H). Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
Note: Cut a 4” diameter hole in the Back. This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
#P574
Bottom (I) The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Front (A)
Top
Roof (B) Back (A)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 6
Front
Gable Underlay (D) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Top
Side Overlay (E) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
f oo
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(B
R
Outside edge
B)
f(
o Ro
f oo
)
(B
R
Gable (C) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Bottom Overlay (F) Stock: 1/4”
#P574 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Side (G)
Stock: 1/4”
Bottom (I)
Front
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
#P574 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Dial (H)
le
k:
St
oc
Ea g
1/
(J
16 ) ”-
1/
8”
Stock: 1/8” Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
#P574 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Leaf Overlay (K)
Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Door (M)
Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2
#P574 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin Pattern overlap line
piece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”L into the following shape
2 Secure one 1/4” side
1/8” 1/4”
Pendulum
of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with contact cement or super glue.
Hook
3 Insert the remaining Front Pattern overlap line
Pendulum (L) Stock: 1/8”. Top pattern piece.
Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C131 Hands - #C137 or #C138
1/4” side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
1/4”
Front Clock movement
Hook Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly
Leaf (N) Stock: 1/8”, cut 2
Pendulum (L) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”. Bottom pattern piece.
#P574 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001