#P10-10 Mantle Clock Here’s a fun clock project that looks fancy, yet is very easy to make. You’ll be amazed! 18”H
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN B DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
G
E I J
C A
D
K
F
#P10-10 Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Sides and Spacer to the Front. Then, attach the Back. Now, attach the Base and the Edging. Next, attach the Side Brackets and the Fences. Proceed to attach the Roof and Crest, and the Dial. Finish as desired. Insert the clock movement, attach the hands, and hang the Pendulum.
H
#P10-10 Mantle Clock
J
Front Clock movement
#P10-10 Mantle Clock Description Item Qty Front & Back A 1 ea 1/4”T x 6”W x 13 3/4”L 1/8” - 1/4”T x 6 3/8”W x 11”L Crest B 1 1/4”T x 3 3/16”W x 11 3/16”L Side C 2 1/4”T x 5 3/4”W x 9 3/4”L Edging D 1 1/4”T x 2”W x 10 3/4”L Side Bracket E 2 1/4” - 1/2T x 5 3/4”W x 9 3/4”L Base F 1 1/4”T x 4 1/4”W x 4 7/16”L Roof G 2 1/4” - 1/2T x 3 3/16”W x 5 7/16”L Spacer H 1 1 1/8”T x 5 3/4”W x 5 3/4”L Dial I 2 1/4”T x 2”W x 8 1/4”L Fence J 1/8”T x 1 5/8”W x 5”L Pendulum K 1 Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
piece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”L into the following shape
2 Secure one 1/4” side
#P10-10
of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with contact cement or super glue.
Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C131 Hands - #C137 or #C138
Front
1/8” 1/4”
Hook
1/4”
Pendulum Hook
Clock movement Hook
3 Insert the remaining 1/4” side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement.
Pendulum (K) Stock 1/8”
Bore 5/16” hole for clock shaft. Pattern overlap line
Front & Back (A) Stock: 1/4”, 1 each Cut design in front only. Bottom pattern piece. Edging (D)
Attach Sides and Spacer with glue and #18 x 5/8”wire brads. Spacer (H)
#P10-10 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front
Roof (G) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Back (A)
Front (A)
Top
1/4” diameter x 3 5/8” L dowel. Secure with glue. Ro
of
G)
f(
o Ro
(G
)
Front & Back (A) Stock: 1/4”, 1 each Top pattern piece.
Dashed line indicates placement of Dial (I).
Note - Cut a 4” hole in the Back for changing batteries and setting time.
Bore 5/16” hole for clock shaft in front only. #P10-10
Pattern overlap line The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Attach Crest to Roof with glue and #18 x 5/8” wire brads.
Stock: 1/8” - 1/4” Left pattern piece.
Crest (B)
Stock: 1/8” - 1/4” Right pattern piece.
Crest (B)
Pattern overlap line
Pattern overlap line
#P10-10
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side (C)
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line Pattern overlap line
Side Bracket (E) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Cut each in half and fit above and below Edging (D) Bottom pattern piece.
Side (C) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Bottom pattern piece.
Side Bracket (E) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2. Cut each in half and fit above and below Edging (D). Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line #P10-10 Spacer (H) The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P10-10
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Side (C)
Stock: 1/4”
Edging (D)
Front (A)
Fence (J)
Back (A)
Front
Front (A)
Side (C)
Side Bracket (E)
#P10-10
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/4” - 1/2”
Base (F)
Front (A)
Fence (J)
Spacer (H) goes here.
Back (A)
Front
Front (A)
Side (C)
Side (C)
Dial (I) Stock: 1/8” Drill 5 1/6” hole for clock shaft.
Spacer (H)
#P10-10 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Fence (J)
Stock: 1/4” - 1/2”
#P488 - Black Forest Clock Capture old world charm with our popular Black Forest Clock. 16” tall.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN C D
G
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
C A
12
2
11
4
9 5
8 7
6
C
C I H
#P488 - Black Forest Clock
3
10
B
E F
1
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
H
Description Item Qty 1 Back A 1 Frame B 5 Intarsia Leaf C 1 Intarsia Bird D 1 Door E 1 Door Frame F 1 Crest G 2 Pinecone H 1 Pendulum I
Size 3/4”T x 4 3/4”W x 7”L 3/4”T x 7 1/2”W x 9 3/4”L 1/2” - 3/4”T x 3 1/4”W x 4”L 1/2” - 3/4”T x 3 1/4”W x 4 3/4”L 1/4”T x 1 1/4”W x 1 1/4”L 1/4”T x 2”W x 2 1/2”L 3/4”T x 3 3/4”W x 8”L 3/8” - 1/2”T x 1 1/4”W x 4 3/4”L 3/4”T x 1”W x 10 1/2”L
Intarsia Leaf (C) Stock: 1/2” - 3/4”, cut 5
#P488 - Black Forest Clock
#P488
Note: For a more realistic appearance, cut along all solid black lines on the Bird and Leaf patterns. Shape each section by sanding the interior edges. Glue back together.
Stock: 3/8” - 1/2”, cut 2
Pinecone (H)
#P488 Black Forest Clock Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Pendulum to the Back. Next attach the Frame to the Back with glue and finishing nails. Then attach the Crest, Leaves, Bird, Door Frame, and Door. Finally, attach brass eye screws to the bottom of the clock assembly and to the top of the Pinecones. Use chain to hang the Pinecones. Finish as desired and insert the clock insert.
Back (A) Stock: 3/4” Dashed-dot lines indicate Door and Door Frame placement
Bore a 2 3/8” hole for clock insert
Door Frame (F) Stock: 1/4”
Slot for Pendulum
Use chain and eye screws to hang Pinecone from bottom of Back (A). Center eye screw from front to back.
Dashed lines indicate Pinecones
Door (E) Stock: 1/4” Carve or scrollsaw lines into Door
Note: To scroll saw the lines into the Door after cutting the outer shape, hold the work piece vertically on your scroll saw table and gently press the work piece into the blade.
#P488 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Frame (B) Stock: 3/4”
Small dashed line indicates Crest (G)
Roundover edges with a router bit or by sanding.
Dashed line indicates Back (A)
#P488 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
Front
Stock: 1/2” - 3/4”
Roundover edges with a router bit or by sanding.
Intarsia Bird (D)
Stock: 3/4”
Crest (G)
Side view of Pendulum (I) top
Side view of Pendulum (I) bottom
Pendulum (I) Stock: 3/4”, front view
#P488 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2002
#P650 - Pendulum Clock 10 1/2”H. Order Movement #C132 & Hands #C139 or #C140
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P650 - Assembly Instructions C
D
1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Back to the backside of the Dial. Then attach the Rim, securing it to the Dial with glue. Now attach the Overlays securing with glue. Insert the hand shaft of the clock movement through the rubber washer, and then insert the shaft through the backside of the clock assembly. Slide the brass washer onto the shaft an secure the clock movement into place with the brass hex nut, making sure the clock movement is positioned correctly. Next, attach the Clock Support into place. Also, attach the Pendulum Overlay to the Pendulum. Then secure the sheet metal hanger onto the pendulum, and insert into the hook on the clock movement. Finish as desired and attach the hands.
B J
A
E G F
#P650 -Wildlife Pendulum Plate Clock I
GREAT AMERICAN H
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
A
Backside view of Clock
#P650 -Wildlife Pendulum Plate Clock Description Dial Rim Top Figure Overlay Bottom Overlay Pendulum Overlay Pendulum Back Clock Support Overlay
item A B C D E F G H I J
Qty 1 1 1 4 1 1 1 1 1 1
Size
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
1/4”T x 8 1/4”W x 8 1/4”L 1/8”T x 10 3/4”W x 10 1/2”L 1/16 - 1/8”T x 2 1/2”W x 5 1/2”L 1/16 - 1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 3”L 1/16 - 1/8”T x 2 1/4”W x 5 3/4”L 1/16” - 1/8”T x 3 3/4”W x 3 3/4”L 1/16” -1/8”T x 2”W x 8 5/8”L 1/8”T x 8 1/4”W x 8 1/4”L 1”T x 3 1/2”W x 3 3/4”L 1/8”T x 4”W x 4 1/2”L
Dial (A) and Back (H) #P650
Dial (A) Stock: 1/4”, cut interior design in (A) only. Left pattern piece. Back (H) Stock: 1/8”, cut on outside solid line only. Left pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
Dial (A) and Back (H) Dial (A) Stock: 1/4”, cut interior design in (A) only. Right pattern piece. Back (H) Stock: 1/8”, cut on outside solid line only. Right pattern piece.
Overlay (D) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 4 Spacers: 1/4”, cut 8 #P650 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Rim (B) Stock: 1/8”. Left pattern piece.
Bottom Overlay (E) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8” Spacers: 1/4”, cut 3
Pattern overlap line
Top Figure (C) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8” Spacers: 1/4”, cut 2
#P650 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
piece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”L into the following shape
Rim (B) Stock: 1/8”. Right pattern piece.
1/8” 1/4”
1/4”
2 Secure one 1/4” side
3
Pendulum of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with Hook contact cement or super glue. Insert the remaining 1/4” Front side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
Pattern overlap line
Pendulum Overlay (F) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Pendulum (G) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Front Clock movement
Hook Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C132 Hands - #C139 or #C140
Pendulum Overlay (F)
Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly
#P650 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
Overlay (J) Stock: 1/8”
Drill for hanging or attach hanger of your choice.
Clock Support (I) Stock: 1”. Secure to backside of Back (H) with glue and wire brads.
#P650 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
#P651 - Pendulum Clock 18”H. Order Movement #C132 & Hands #C137 or #C138
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P651 - Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core
C
E B
D
B F
12
G
3 9 6
A
K C
J
plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back into the slots in the Sides, securing with glue. Next, slide the Front and Back Supports into place and secure with glue. Then, glue the Overlays into position. Now place the rubber washer onto the clock shaft and insert the pendulum clock movement into place behind the Front. Next, slide the Dial Underlay and Dial onto the clock shaft and secure in place with the brass washer and hex nut. Then attach the Roof, dowel, and Crest. Now glue the Pendulum Bob to the Pendulum Rod, and attach the sheet metal hanger as shown in the diagram. Finish as desired and insert the hands.
A
A A
GREAT AMERICAN
H I
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM #P651 - Mantel Clock
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
#P651 - Mantel Clock Description Front & Back Support Front & Back Side Crest Roof Dial Underlay Dial Flower Overlay Flower Overlay Pendulum Bob Pendulum Rod
#P651
Item A B C D E F G H I J K
Qty
Size 1/4”T x 6 5/8”W x 10 5/8”L 4 1 ea 1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 10 1/4”L 1/4”T x 6 1/8”W x 9 7/8”L 2 1/4”T x 6”W x 12 1/4”L 1 1/4”T x 4 1/2”W x 4 7/8”L 2 1/8”T x 5 3/4”W x 5 3/4”L 1 1/8”T x 5 1/4”W x 5 1/4”L 1 1/16”-1/8”T x 1 1/4”W x 1 1/4”L 1 1/16”-1/8”T x 1 1/2”W x 1 3/4”L 1 1/16”-1/8”T x 1 3/4”W x 1 3/4”L 1 1/16”-1/8”T x 3/16”W x 5 1/2”L 1
Pendulum Bob (J) Stock 1/16” - 1/8”
Flower Overlay (H) Stock 1/16” - 1/8”
Overlay (I) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Dashed line indicates placement of Flower Overlay (I).
Front & Back Support (A) Stock: 1/4”, cut 4 Dashed line indicates placement of Flower Overlay (H).
#P651 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Front & Back (B) Stock: 1/4”, cut 1 each
Small dashed lines indicate placement of Dial Overlay Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
Note: Cut a 4” diameter hole in the Back. This will allow you to change the battery and set the time.
#P651 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Side (C) Stock: 1/4”, cut 2 Front
(B)
(A)
(B)
(A)
#P651 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
3/8” diameter x 4 1/2” long dowel
Ro
of
(E
)
) (E of Ro Pattern overlap line
Crest (D) Stock: 1/4”. Left pattern piece. Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8” wire brads.
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement
Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
piece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”L into the following shape
2 Secure one 1/4” side of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with contact cement or super glue.
3 Insert the remaining Front
1/4” side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
Pendulum Rod (K)
1/8” 1/4”
Pendulum Hook
Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C132 Hands - #C137 or #C138
1/4”
Front Clock movement
Hook Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly
#P651 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Crest (D) Stock: 1/4”. Right pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line E)
( of Ro
Top
Roof (E) Attach with glue and #18 x 5/8” wire brads.
Back (A)
Front (A)
Stock: 1/4”, cut 2
Front
#P651 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Dial Underlay (F) Stock 1/8”
Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
Dashed line indicates placement of Dial (G).
Dial (G) #P651
Stock 1/8” Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft. The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
#P654 - Pendulum Clock 13”H. Order Movement #C130 & Hands #C139
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
#P654 - Assembly Instructions 1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the 2 Spacer halves to the Back with glue and #18 x 3/4” wire brads. Then attach the Frame. Now, attach any Figures into position on the Back. Next, attach the Dial and any Overlays to the Frame. Insert the pendulum movement and secure in place. And attach the Pendulum, and finish as desired.
C
B
F G A
D
G
E K
I
J
GREAT AMERICAN
H
#P654 - Fisherman’s Clock
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001 • All Rights Reserved www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com • a division of The Berry Basket
#P654 - Fisherman’s Clock Description Frame Back Spacer Left Cloud Right Cloud Dial Leaves Cattails Pendulum Left Mountain Right Mountain
#P654
item Qty A B C D E F G H I J K
1 1 2 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1
Size 1/8”T x 10 5/8”W x 13 3/4”L 1/4”T x 9 3/4”W x 11”L 1”T x 5”W x 11 1/8”L 1/16”-1/8”T x 1”W x 2 1/2”L 1/16”-1/8”T x 1 1/8”W x 2 1/2”L 1/16”T x 6 1/4”W x 6 1/4”L 1/16”-1/8”T x 3 3/8”W x 3 3/8”L 1/16”-1/8”T x 4 1/4”W x 9 1/4”L 1/4”T x 3 3/8”W x 5 3/4”L 1/16”-1/8”T x 3”W x 5 5/8”L 1/16”-1/8”T x 2 5/8”W x 5 3/8”L
#P654
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Dashed line indicates Spacer (C).
Pattern overlap line
Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
Cut on this solid line for Back (B) only.
Cut 1 each Stock Frame (A): 1/8” Stock Back (B): 1/4” Top pattern piece
Frame (A) & Back (B)
Cut on outside and inside solid lines for Frame (A) only.
#P654
The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Cut 1 each Stock Frame (A): 1/8” Stock Back (B): 1/4” Bottom pattern piece
Frame (A) & Back (B)
Pattern overlap line
Left Cloud (D) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Right Cloud (E) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8” Spacer: 1/4”, cut 1
Dial (F) Stock: 1/16” Drill 5/16” hole for clock shaft.
S
Sto pac ck er :1 ( ”, C) cu t2
#P654 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Cattails (H) Leaves (G) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”, cut 2 Spacers: 1/8”, cut 6
#P654 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin
piece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”L into the following shape
Clock movement
1/8” 1/4”
Front
1/4”
2 Secure one 1/4” side
3
Pendulum of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with Hook contact cement or super glue. Insert the remaining 1/4” Front side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
Hook Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly
Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C131 Hands - #C139
Pendulum (I) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8”
Left Mountain (J) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8” Spacer: 1/4”, cut 1
Right Mountain (K) Stock: 1/16” - 1/8” Spacers: 1/4”, cut 2
#P654 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2001
#P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock Bring nature indoors with our tranquil Duck Pendulum Clock. Use contrasting woods for added effect. Nearly 11” in diameter.
GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUES The following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success. Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art. Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive to use. Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses. They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once you’ve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining, along with any “fuzz” on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as, with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time Material Thickness Blade Size Recommended you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to 1/16” - 1/4” #2/0 or #2 use will become personal preference. For the beginning 1/4” - 1/2” #5 or #7 scroller we make the following recommendations to get 1/2” - 3/4” or thicker #7 or #9 you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience. Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer software’s instructions. Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready to apply the pattern to your work pieces. Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment. Pattern overlap line
Frame & Back Stock: 1/8” - 1/4”, cut 1 each Left pattern piece.
Ruler
Cut on solid line for Frame only.
Pattern overlap line
Craft knife Clear tape
Cut on dashed line for Back
Step 2 Step 1 Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed “Pattern Overlap Lines” to remove the excess paper.
Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape. Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backside of the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVE Using a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky - approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary. Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hair dryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more than a total thickness of 1/2” for best results. On projects with fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich between the work pieces. On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush, or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom of the work piece. If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem. 1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed. 2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better control of the workpiece. 3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the table with your fingers for better control. 4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, while in other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in the table around the blade that is much larger than what you really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table on your saw. To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4” - 3/8” plywood similar to the size of your current saw’s table. If you choose, you can cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the projects you will make in the future. Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill a 1/16” - 1/8” diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you will be using. Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If you’ve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into the pan and then follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to accept the stain more evenly. As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
GREAT AMERICAN DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
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#P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock Description D #P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock
item
Clock Support Pendulum Overlay Frame
A B C D
Qty 1 1 1 1
Size 1”T x 3 1/2”W x 3 3/4”L 1/16”T x 4 3/4”W x 9 1/8”L 1/16” - 1/4”T x 7 3/8”W x 7 3/8”L 1/4”T x 10 1/4”W x 10 1/4”L
B Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement 1 Form a hanger by bending a thin 1/8” piece of sheet metal 3/8”W x 5/8”L into the following shape
A Front
1/4”
2 Secure one 1/4” side of the hanger to the top front of the Pendulum with contact cement or super glue.
Clock movement
D
1/4”
Pendulum Hook
3 Insert the remaining Front Backside view of Clock
Hook Pendulum Side view of Pendulum Clock Movement Assembly
1/4” side through the pendulum hook on the Clock Movement. Clock movement Hook
#P785 - Assembly Instructions Recommended Pendulum Movement - #C131 Hands - #C141
#P785
1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood. 2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as necessary. 3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated. 4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired. 5. Assemble by first attaching the Overlay to the Frame. Then attach the with glue. Insert the hand shaft of the clock movement through the rubber washer, and then insert the shaft through the backside of the clock assembly. Slide the brass washer onto the shaft and secure the clock movement into place with the brass hex nut, making sure the clock movement is positioned correctly. Next, attach the Clock Support into place. Then secure the sheet metal hanger onto the Pendulum, and insert into the hook on the clock movement. Finish as desired and attach the hands.
Drill for hanging or attach hanger of your choice.
Clock Support (A) Stock: 1”. Secure to backside of Frame (D) with glue and wire brads.
Pendulum (B) Stock: 1/16”
#P785 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2004
Overlay (C) Stock: 1/16” - 1/4”
#P785 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2004
Frame (D)
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Left pattern piece.
#P785 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2004
Frame (D)
Pattern overlap line
Stock: 1/4” Right pattern piece.
#P785 The Berry Basket © Copyright 2004
