Ann Taylor Manual 6-13-08

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL

SECTION 10

PART I

RAW MATERIAL AND FINISHED PRODUCT

PERFORMANCE AND TESTING PROCEDURES

STANDARDS & PROCEDURES


TABLE OF CONTENTS PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT .............................................................................................................................. 3 CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM ............................................................................................................... 3

Spinner’s Certificate ....................................................................................................................................................... 4 Fur and Faux Fur ........................................................................................................................................................... 5 Shearling ........................................................................................................................................................................ 5 RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE ............................................................................................................... 6 RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE ..................................................................................................................... 6 ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST ....................................................................................................... 7 DEVELOPMENT TESTING ............................................................................................................................................. 13

Trim Component Testing - Development ...................................................................................................................... 13 Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package) ............................................................................................... 14 Yarn in Yarn Form ....................................................................................................................................................... 14 Yarn in Knit Form ........................................................................................................................................................ 15 Fabric Testing - Development ....................................................................................................................................... 16 PRODUCTION TESTING ................................................................................................................................................ 17

Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) ...................................................................................................... 17 Yarn Testing - Production ............................................................................................................................................ 26 Yarn in Yarn Form ....................................................................................................................................................... 27 Yarn in Knitted Form ................................................................................................................................................... 28 Fabric Production Testing ............................................................................................................................................ 29 Garment Production Testing ................................. ................ ................................. ................................. .................................. .................................. .................................. ................................... .................... ..31 TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES..................................................................................................................................... 33 APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS .............. ....................... ................... .................... ................... ................... ............ .. 36 ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES................... ............................ .................. ................... ................... .................. ................... ................... ................... .............. .... 40 ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES ..................................................................................................................... 42 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Reques t Form—TRIM Form—TR IM.................................. ................ ................................... ................................... ................................... ................................... .......................... ........ 44 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—FABRIC/ YARN ....................... ................................ .................. .................. .................. ................... ................... .................. .................. ......... 45 Ann Taylor Adult Test Request Form—GARMENT ................... ............................. ................... .................. .................. .................. .................. .................. ................... ................... ........... 46 PRODUCT PERFORMANCE .......................................................................................................................................... 47 TESTING PROTOCOLS .................................................................................................................................................. 50 BOTTOMS (#001) ........................................................................................................................................................ 51 TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL) ............................................................................................. 54 SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL) ..................................................................................................... 57 OUTERWEAR (#004) ................................................................................................................................................... 60 DENIM APPAREL (#005) ............................................................................................................................................. 63 INTIMATES (#006) ....................................................................................................................................................... 66 SLEEPWEAR (#007) .................................................................................................................................................... 69 TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008) ........................................................................................................................ 72 SWEATERS (#009)....................................................................................................................................................... 76 LEATHER (#010) .......................................................................................................................................................... 79 ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011) ..................................................................................................................................... 81 Basic Care Labels ........................................................................................................................................................... 83 Branded & Co-Branded Product ..................................................................................................................................... 84 BOTTOMS (#001A) ...................................................................................................................................................... 85 TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A) ........................................................................................................................... 87 SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A) ................................................................................................................................... 89 OUTERWEAR (#004A) ................................................................................................................................................. 91 DENIM APPAREL (#005A) ........................................................................................................................................... 93 INTIMATES (#006A) ..................................................................................................................................................... 96 SWEATERS (#009A) .................................................................................................................................................... 98

Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures

2 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL PROCEDURES FOR DEVELOPMENT •

•

•

Each fabric/yarn that is considered for development is required to be accompanied by a “Fabric/Yarn Information Sheet (FIS/YIS)”. (FIS/YIS)”. This form is to be completed by the Mill and a copy is to be sent to the appropriate Ann Taylor Product Developer. According to the information that the Mills supply, New York Sourcing will decide to either pursue or drop/substitute the quality, depending on the end use. If deemed suitable for the product, new fabrics will be evaluated, prior to making bulk commits, to make sure all standards can be met (See “Development Testing” for details).

CORPORATE PRODUCT TESTING PROGRAM •

•

•

•

•

•

Ann Taylor has established a basic testing program to monitor and ensure compliance with applicable legislation and corporate quality standards. Basic test packages packages have been developed for products and components, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments. All products, including trim components, yarns, textiles, and garments must be tested at Production stage prior to shipment. Each supplier is solely responsible responsible for ensuring that prior to shipment each product has been tested in accordance with the applicable basic testing package. package. All finished products care and content must be appropriately labeled in accordance with United States Federal Trade Commission Regulations. Each supplier is responsible for the submission of the required number of samples, in all styles and all colors purchased, for evaluation. evaluation. The supplier is required to submit the required number of samples to the laboratory accompanied by the completed Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see pages 44-46). Ann Taylor will be monitoring to ensure that all products are tested. Ann Taylor will pay for all development testing when it is specifically requested by the appropriate Ann Taylor buying agent, Merchandise Manager, or Product Manager. Note: If the item developed is purchased for production, the supplier will be required to pay the development testing charges. All suppliers who provide textiles and finished products to Ann Taylor, or to other Ann Taylor suppliers for confirmed Ann Taylor orders, are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the process. process. This independent testing is required to verify that all products are in compliance with all applicable legislation and established performance standards. Suppliers will be invoiced directly for the testing charges by the Ann Taylor approved testing laboratory.


3 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Spinner’s Certificate 1. Spinner’s certificate is a document used by spinner to confirm a certain type of fiber, including trademarks, used in spinning. 2. Types of fibers that require spinner’s certificate include the followings: - Merino wool - Lambs’ wool - Shetland wool - Angora rabbit hair - Premium cotton fibers such as Pima, Egyptian, Sea Island etc. - Fiber trademarks such as Lycra®, Elite®, Tencel® etc. 3. Apart from the spinner’s certificate, additional supporting tests will be performed by BV or ITS Shanghai on claimed fiber type or fiber trademarks (e.g. Antron), where applicable.

4. Information on date of issue, client's address, authorized signature, yarn description, RMID (Raw Material Identification) number, etc. must be included on the document. 5. Spinner’s certificate is valid ONLY for 12 months from date of issue.


4 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Fur and Faux Fur Genuine Fur Ann Taylor Stores Corporation has a “no-fur” policy for all brands. This excludes shearling.

Garment Containing Faux Fur In order to ensure compliance with the corporate policy on real fur, items that contain faux fur must be accompanied by a test report confirming this prior to shipping.

Shearling Garment Containing Shearling (not fur) All shearling furs require fiber content test performed on bulk raw material. This test must be performed by a CCMI approved laboratory and submitted to Ann Taylor prior to shipping.


5 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES COMPLIANCE It is critically important for Ann Taylor to know that our products are safe for customer’s end use. To accomplish this, we have created a restricted substances list with implementation dates. It is mandatory that all raw materials shipped by September 1, 2008, and finished products by November 1, 2008 are in full compliance.

RETESTING RESTRICTED SUBSTANCE Any raw material that fails initial testing for restricted substances must indicate on subsequent test request form what corrective action has been taken to ensure compliance with Ann Taylor’s standards.


6 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ANN TAYLOR RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES LIST June 2008 Version CAS Numb er

Chemical Name/ Color Index Name

Standard Origin

Ann Taylor Limits

Reason for Restriction

Test Method

Compliance Date

DYES AZO Dyes which, by reductive cleavage of one or more AZO groups, may release one or more of the following aromatic amines. 4-Amino azobenzene1

60-09-3 97-56-3

o-Aminoazotoluene

92-67-1

4-Aminodiphenyl

99-55-8

2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene

90-04-0

o-Anisidine

92-87-5

Benzidine

106-47-8

Not Detected (below detection limits - see test method)

European Union & China

Legis late d

Leather(EU): CEN ISO/TS 17234

4-Chloro-o-toluidine

120-71-8

p-Cresidine

615-05-4

2,4-Diaminoanisole

101-77-9

4,4'-Diamino-diphenylmethane

91-94-1

3,3'-Dichlorobenzidine

119-90-4

3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine

119-93-7

3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine

838-88-0

3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'-diamino-diphenylmethane

101-14-4

Immediate

Polyester(EU): EN 14362-2

p-Chloroaniline

95-69-2

Textiles (EU): EN 14362-1

Textiles(China) GB/T 17592-2006 Test Method for 4Aminoazobenzene (pAAB) confirmation § 64 LFGB 8 82.02-9

4,4'-Methylene-bis-(2-chloroaniline)

91-59-8

2-Naphthylamine

101-80-4

4,4'-Oxydianiline

139-65-1

4,4'-Thiodianiline

95-80-7

2,4-Toluenediamine

95-53-4

o-Toluidine

137-17-7

2,4,5-Trimethylaniline

95-68-1

2,4-Xylidine 2

87-62-7

2,6-Xylidine 2

Footnotes: 1. Applicable in the European Union Regulation Only 2. Applicable in the Chinese Regulation only

Disperse Dyes 2475-45-8

Dis per se Blue 1

56524-77-7 or 56524-76-6

Disperse Blue 35

12223-01-7

Disp erse Blue 106

61951-51-7

Disp erse Blue 124

730-40-5

Disp erse Orang e 3

13301-61-6

Disperse Orange 37/76

2872-52-8

Dis per se Red 1

2832-40-8

Dis per se Yell ow 3

Not Detect ed

Germany

Leg isl ate d

DIN 54231 Disperse Dyes

Immediate

Eur op ean Union

Legis lated

Solvent extraction Immediate and GC-MS or LC MS

(below detection levels see regulation)

Other Dyes 118685-33-9

Nav y Blu e


0.1% by mass

7 June 2008


SOLVENTS (Aliphatic Chlorohydrocarbons) 76-01-7

Pentachlo roethane

56-23-5

Carbon Tetrac hlori de

630-20-6

1,1,1,2-Tetrachloroethane

79-34-5

1,1,2,2-Tetrachloroethane

67-66-3

Chloroform

79-00-5

1,1,2-Trichloroethane

75-35-4

1,1-Dichloroethylene

71-55-6

1,1,1-Trichloroethane

127-18-4

Tetrachloroethylene 3

0.1%(mass) total

Germany Legislated and Japan

Headspace GC-MS

All raw materials shipped by 9/1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08

U.S. EPA Method 8081A/8151A


Footnotes: 3. Applicable in the Japan Regulation Only

PESTICIDES 93-72-1

2-(2,4,5-trichlorophenoxy) propionic acid, its salts and compounds

93-76-5

2,4,5-trichlorophenoxyacetic acid, its salts and compounds

309-00-2

Aldrin (both Switzerland and Finland)

57-74-9

Chlordane (both Switzerland and Finland)

72-54-8

Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethane (DDD)

72-55-9

Dichloro-diphenyl-dichloro ethylene (DDE)

50-29-3

Dichloro-diphenyl-tichloro ethane (DDT) (both Switzerland and Finland)

60-57-1

Dieldrin (5) Also Japan (both Switzerland and Finland

72-20-8

Endrine (both Switzerland and Finland)

76-44-8

Heptachlorine (both Switzerland and Finland)

1024-57-3

Epoxy-heptachlorine

118-74-1

Hexachlorobenzene (both Switzerland and Finland)

608-73-1

Hexachlorocyclohexane (HCH, all isomers) except gamma-hexachlorocyclohexane (except linande [58-89-9] in medical products)

465-73-6

Isodrin

4234-79-1

Kelevane

143-50-0

Kepone (Chlordecone)

58-89-8

Lindane

72-43-5

Methoxychlor

2385-85-5

Mirex (Finland only)

72-56-0

Perthane

82-68-8

Quintozene

8001-50-1

Strobane

297-78-9

Telodrin

8001-35-2

Toxaphene (both Switzerland and Finland)

1336-36-3 53469-21-9 and various

Halogenated biphenyls, including Polycholorinated biphenyl (PCB) (both Switzerland and Finland)

Various

Halogenated terphenols, including Polychlorinated terphenyl (PCT)

Various

Halogentaed naphthalenes

Various

Halogentaed diarylalkanes

99688-47-8 81161-70-8 76253-60-6

Halogenated diphenyl methanes, including Monomethyl-dibromo-diphenyl methane Monomethyl-dichloro-diphenyl methane Monomethyl-tetrachloro-diphenyl methane

87-86-5

Pentachlorophenol (PCP), its salts and compounds

25167-83-3

Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), its salts and compounds


Not Detected

Switzerland Legis lated & Finland (those pesticides without indication are regulated under Switzerland)

8 June 2008


DIOXINS And FURANS Group 1 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 2,3,7,8-Tetrachlorodibenzofuran 2,3,4,7,8-Pentachlorodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 1: 1 µg/kg

Group 2 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-pentachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran 2,3,4,6,7,8-Hexachlorodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 1 & 2: 5 µg/kg

35822-46-9 3268-87-9 67562-39-4 55673-89-7 39001-02-0

Group 3 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,4,6,7,8-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,7,8,9-Heptachlorodibenzofuran 1,2,3,4,6,7,8,9-Octachlorodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 1, 2 & 3: 100 µg/kg

50585-41-6 109333-34-8 67933-57-7 131166-92-2

Group 4 2,3,7,8-Tetabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzo-p-dlox n 2,3,7,8-Tetrabromodibenzofuran 2,3,4,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 4: 1 µg/kg

Group 5 1,2,3,4,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8,9-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,6,7,8-Hexabromodibenzo-p-dioxin 1,2,3,7,8-Pentabromodibenzofuran

Sum of Group 4 & 5:

1746-01-6 40321-76-4 51207-31-9 57117-31-4 39227-28-6 19408-74-3 57653-85-7 57117-41-6 70648-26-9 72918-21-9 57117-44-9 60851-34-5

107555-93-1 no CAS #'s available

Germany

Legis lated

US EPA 8290


Legislated

Microscopic All raw materials shipped by examination; 9/1/08 and finished product minimum by 11/1/08 magnification 1 250, polarized light filter attached; ratio of fiber length to diameter is at least 3:1

5 µg/kg

ASBESTOS 77536-66-4 12172-73-5 77536-67-5 12001-29-5 12001-28-4 77536-68-6

Actinolite Amosite Anthrophyllite Chrysotile Crocidolite Tremolite

2551-62-4

Sulphur hexafl uorid e - S F 6

Not tected

European Union

FLUORINATED GREENHOUSE GASES Hydrofluorocarbons (HFCs): 75-46-7

HFC-23 - CH F 3

75-10-5

HFC-32 - CH2F2

593-53-3

HFC-41 - CH 3F

138495-42-8

HFC-43-10mee - C 5H2F 10

354-33-6

HFC-125 - C 2HF5

359-35-3

HFC-134 - C 2H2F4

811-97-2

HFC-134a - C H 2FC F 3

75-37-6

HFC-152a - C2H4F2

420-46-2

Not detected

European Union

Legislated

Headspace for GC/MS

All raw materials shipped by /1/08 and finished product by 11/1/08

Thermal Adsorption GC/MS

European

470-46-6

HFC-143a - C2H3F3

431-89-0

HFC-227ea - C 3HF7 HFC-236cb - CH 2F CF 2CF3

431-63-0

HFC-236ea - CH F 2CHFCF 3

690-39-1

HFC-236fa - C3H2F6

679-86-7

HFC-245c a - C 3H3F5

460-73-1

HFC-245fa - CH F 2CH 2CF3


9 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL 406-58-6

HFC-365mfc - CF 3CH2CF2CH3 Per-fluorocarbons (PFCs):

75-73-0

Perfl uorom ethane - CF 4

76-16-4

Pertl uoroethane - C 2F6

76-19-7

Perfl uorop ropane - C 3F8

355-25-9

Perfluorobutane - C 4F10

67-8-26-2

Perfl uorop entane - C 5F12

355-42-0

Pertluorohaxane - C 6F14

115-25-3

Perfl uoroc yclobutane - c-C 4F8

85535-84-8

Chlorinated paraffins (C10-C13)

May not be used

European Legislated Union

59536-65-1

Polybrominated biphenyls (PBBs)

May not be used


32534-81-9

Penta-bromodiphenyl ether (pentaBDE)

May not be used


32536-52-0

Octa-bromodiphenyl ether (octaBDE)

126-72-7

Tris (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate (TRIS)

Not Detected


5412-25-9

Bis (2,3-dibromopropyl) phosphate

Not Detected

Japan

545-55-1

Tris (1-aziridinyl)-phosphine oxide (TEPA)

Not Detected


1163-19-5

Decabromodiphenyl ether (DecaBDE)

0.1% by weight Sweden

FLAM E RETARDAN TS


Solvent extraction Immediate and GC-MS or LC-MS Methanol extraction: analysis by GCMS or LC-MS Solvent extraction and analysis by GC-MS or LC-MS

Legislated

Legislated

10 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL METALS Restrictions for Textiles 7440-43-9

Cadmium (Cd)

100 ppm

Netherlands Leg isl ate d

Tot al Dig est ion

18540-29-9

Chromium (Cr+6) – hexavalent

Not detected Germany (below detection limits - see test method)

Legislated

7439-92-1

Lead (Pb)

PVC 30 ppm PU 100 ppm

United States

Legislated Total San Francisco digestion Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721

Immediate

DIN 53314; C18 filtration and reanalysis of all positive results

Restrictions for Leather 7440-43-9

C admium (Cd)

100 ppm

Netherlands

Leg isl ate d

Tot al dige stio n

7439-92-1

Lead (Pb)

100 ppm

Denmark

Leg isl ate d

Tot al dige stio n

18540-29-9

Chromium (Cr+6) - hexava lent

Not detected Germany (below detection limits - see test method)

Legis lated

DIN 53314; C18 filtration and reanalysis of all positive results.

Imm edi ate

Restrictions for Metal Parts 7439-92-1

Lead (Pb)

100 ppm

Denmark

Legis late d

Total digestion

7440-02-0

Nickel (Ni) (in metal items )

0.5 µg/cm2 /week

European Union

Legislated

Nickel release by Immediate EN 1811 Abrasion of coated items by EN 12472

Immediate

60 ppm 25 ppm 1000 ppm 75 ppm 60 ppm 90 ppm 60 ppm 500 ppm

European Union

Legis lated

EN 71, Part III ASTM F963

Immediate

Immediate

Restrictions for Heavy Metals 7440-43-9

7440-43-9 18540-29-9 7439-92-1

Antimony Arsenic Barium Cadmium Chromium Lead Mercury Selenium

Restrictions for P lastics, Plastic Film, Surface Coatings and Printing 7440-43-9

Cadmi um (Cd)

100 ppm

Euro pea n Union

Legis lated

EN 1122

7439-92-1

Lead (Pb) in Paint/Surface Coating

600 ppm

CPSC

Legis lated

7439-92-1

Lead (Pb ) in PVC

Lead in PU 16 CFR 1303; ASTM E613/1645 All raw materials shipped by (mod.) 9/1/08.,and finished product EPA 3051B/3051 by 11/1/08

Handbag, small leather goods, picture frame, 200 ppm mirror compact, jewelry, trinket box, season ornaments Gloves, scarves, hats, socks, footwear, hair accessories, belts, sunglasses, reading glasses

7439-92-1

Lead (Pb) in PU


Ca Prop 65 Legislated San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721

30 ppm

100 ppm

Ger many

Leg isl ate d

EPA 3051B/305 1

11 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Restrictions for Adult Jewelry 7439-92-1

Lead (Pb) Class 1

No requirement Ca Prop 65 Legis lated

EPA 3051B/3051

Immediate

Class 2 Other Metal (Electroplated)

100,000 ppm 60,000 ppm

Other Metal (Unplated)

A f t er 1 2 / 3 1 / / 0 8

15,000 ppm

Plastic/rubber(including PVC)

600 ppm 200 ppm

Dyes & Surface Coating

A f t er 1 2 / 3 1 / / 0 8

600 ppm

Class 3 Not Class 1 or 2

600 ppm

ORGANOTIN COMP OUNDS 56573-85-4

Tributyltin (TBT)

Not Detected (0.5 ppm each)

Japan

Legis late d

Performance All raw materials shipped by based method of 9/1/08.,and finished product ethanol extraction by 11/1/08 derivitization and analysis by GC MS or LC-MS ISO 17353-2004

668-34-8

Triphenyltin (TPhT)

50-00-0

Formaldehyde 0-36 months

Not detected (below detection limits - see test method)

Japan

Legislated

ISO 14184-1 or JIS L1041 (Law 112) or DIN 53315

>36 months (with direct skin contact

75 ppm

Japan

Legislated

ISO 14184-1 or JIS L1041 (Law 112) or DIN 53315

Phthalates Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) Di-n-ocyl phthalate (DNOP) Di-iso-decyl-phthalate (DIDP) Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)

<1,000 ppm (0.1% by weight).

European Legis late d Union

MI SCELLANEOUS CHEMI CALS

84-74-2 85-68-7 117-81-7 117-84-0 26761-40428553-12-0

Immediate

Determination of Immediate defined Ortho Phthalic Esters in Synthetic Fibers and Thermoplastics by LC-DAD-MS or GC-MS Confirmation of failure by fragmentation HPLC-MS


12 June 2008


DEVELOPMENT TESTING The Development Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific performance characteristics of “questionable” or “new” trims, components, yarns, or textiles prior to confirming the bulk production order. Conducting a test during the development stages of production does not exempt the supplier from testing bulk production in accordance with the full basic testing packages. For On-going/carryover qualities No testing required. •

For New qualities At minimum, test those select qualities which are considered most critical NY Product Development, in conjunction with the appropriate buying office, will decide which new qualities are to be tested. Fabric information sheets (FIS), past history, as well as any additional information from the supplier should be used as resources. Product Development always has the option of testing all new qualities. • •

•

Trim Component Testing - Development •

•

Specialized trim and embellishment components, both functional and decorative, may be tested in the development stage (see above for details) in accordance with the full Basic Trim Component Testing Package prior to placing the order with the trim supplier. This would assure that the trim component meets the requirements prior to selection for production.

Trim Testing Exemptions Zippers: Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK zipper components for audits Certain trim components : Ann Taylor does not require testing to be performed on Scovill shanks, rivets, and snaps components for adults. Remark: Testing is still required on infant and toddler items.

•

For suggested testing, please see “Trim Component Testing--Production”.

•

Ann Taylor is responsible for charges incurred at development stage.


13 June 2008


Yarn Testing – Development (Basic Yarn Test Package) (If requested) st

Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color minimum width 36” 1 yard each additional color minimum width 36” 1 cone, 10 yards minimum

Yarn in Yarn Form To be performed by country sourcing the yarn (i.e. unfinished). Development yarn should be submitted as fully processed product. •

Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

YARN SIZE

AATCC 20/20A ASTMD276/629 ASTM D1059

TWIST PER INCH

ASTM D1423

YARN STRENGTH

ASTM D2256

FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method

Single fiber: no tolerance Blends: +/- 3% +/- 10% Against claimed As specified by yarn supplier As specified by yarn supplier

Notes

Test one solid and all topdyed mélanges. One color only One color only One color only

Note 1: Colorfastness testing is not part of the development protocol. However, Ann Taylor Production/Product Development, yarn mill, and dyer should identify potential issues with respect to colorfastness at the earliest possible stage. Note 2: Additional testing may be required upon request. Note 3: For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself: 1. Diameter of Fiber (ASTM D2130) 2. Fiber Length (ASTM D1575)


14 June 2008


Yarn in Knit Form • • •

To be performed by country manufacturing the garment (If requested) Can be garment or knit down – discussed with NY PD. Should be performed in every stitch and gauge.

Required standard

Required test PERFORMANCE FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

BURSTING STRENGTH

ASTM D3786

PILLING

ASTM D3512 Random Tumble (30 minutes)

Minimum(psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35 Sweaters: 40 All others: 3.5 Polyester/nylon: 3

STRETCH AND RECOVERY

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AFTER STEAM PRESS

Test Method

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours Other animal fibers: 4 hours ASTM D2594 use “Growth” for pass/fail determination; “Recovery” for informational purposes only AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/1cycle) Coteco


Notes One color only See “Performance Specifications Flammability” for details One color only

One color only

Sweaters and Animal Fibers: 3.5 3.5 In stretch direction only : For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70%; Growth: 7% Length x width (max. %) Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x 7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 x -8/+3 Sweaters: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Length x Width (max.%) -3/+2 x -3/+2 Sweaters: -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Stretch only One color only

Length x Width (max.%) -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only (not required for sweaters)

One color only Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)

One color only Dryclean fabrics One color only

15 June 2008


Fabric Testing - Development (If requested) st

Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color, minimum width 36” 1 yard each additional color, minimum width 36” Any fabric submitted for testing must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to during manufacturing (i.e.: durable water repellents, sanding/brushing, flocking, printing, etc). For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics): The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “before-wash/finish”. Ann Taylor is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “after-wash/finish”. The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the garments after the wash/finish. •

• •

Basic Development Test Package *Dimensional stability and Appearance after 3 launderings or 1 dryclean *Dimensional stability after steam press Fabric count Fabric weight Fiber content Flammability (see “Performance Specifications—Flammability” for details) *pH–denim, leather, washed garments Bursting strength (knits) Pile retention (corduroy, velvet, velour only) Pilling resistance (knits / wovens) Abrasion—denims only Seam slippage (wovens) Spirality (knits) / Torqueing (wovens) Stretch and Recovery (fabrics containing stretch fibers, such as Spandex, Lastol, Elasterell-p ) Tearing strength (wovens / leather) Tensile strength (wovens / leather) Yarn size (only if requested) Spray Test—only if claiming “water repellent” Rain Test—only if classifying as “Rainwear” • •

• • • •

• •

• •

• • • • • • • • •

* For washed programs—these tests are not needed in the “before-wash” state.

See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for standards and test methods.


16 June 2008


PRODUCTION TESTING The Production Testing Program has been established to test products and evaluate specific performance characteristics of trim, yarn, textile, or garment prior to shipment. Note: if the final fabric has mechanical (wash)/chemical finish, the basic test package must be performed on finished fabric.

Trim Component Testing (including test protocols) All trim components, both functional and decorative (with the exception of adult Coats, Ideal & YKK zipper components), are required to be tested in accordance with the following protocols.

Non-metallic Trim (page 1 of 2)

Specification #812

Examples: buttons, ball stoppers, etc. (Excluding: metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather)

Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)

Required standard

Required test Flammability (fabric trims)

Test Method 16 CFR 1610

Appearance After Laundering/ Drycleaning

AATCC 150 No breaking, cracking, 5X Home chipping or dulling of the Laundering surface (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium)

Class 1

If failures, may need to test additional sizes/shapes.

AATCC158 3X Commercial Drycleaning

Steam press

Coteco

Notes One color only (see “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Test any one color, three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small, circle, square, heart, etc.)

Staining min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Does not have to be performed if the colorfastness tests under “dyed to match” are performed. Test any one color, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small)

If dyed to match (instead of internal dyed) add the following tests (test all colors): Color fastness to washing

AATCC 61 IIA

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4

Color fastness to drycleaning

AATCC 132


Colorfastness to crocking

AATCC 116

Dry: min. 4.5 Wet: min. 4


Test all colors, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small) Test all colors, at least three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small) Test all colors, any one size

17 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Non-metallic Trim (page 2 of 2)

Specification #812

Excluding metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather If coated or painted

add the following tests

Required test Lead content

Heavy Metals

Nickel Test

Required standard

Test Method 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.) EN 71, Part III ASTM F963

EN 1811 EN12472 (report results with and without coating)

No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week

Notes All colors

Must not exceed these limits (ppm) for soluble migrated element

Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)

If material contains PVC or PU ( including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing)

Required Test

Lead Content

Test Method

Required Standard

EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)


Notes All colors

If Button

add the following tests

Center Strength a. Shank/2 & 4 holes plastic & wooden buttons

BS 4162 Section 4.0 (modified)

Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf Larger than 25 ligne: 30 lbf

b. Shell buttons

15 lbf

c. Horn button

18 lbf

Test all shapes/sizes. One color only.

If Snap

add the following test

Snap Action

ASTM D4846 BV-S 1045


Min: 2 lbs Max: 5 lbs

Test all sizes/shapes. One color only.

18 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Trim made of metal

Specification #813

Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces) Required test

Required standard

Test Method

Notes

Corrosion Resistance

ASTM B117 G85 (Mod) 24 hours in 1% Salt Spray (Fog)

No visual change in appearance No signs of staining, corrosion, oxidation or discoloration.

Test any one size All colors and finishes

Nickel test

EN 1811 EN 12472 Report results with and without coating

Transfer to skin less than 0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week

Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”.

Heavy Metals


Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500


If coated or painted add the following tests Lead content

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

Appearance After Laundering/ Drycleaning

AATCC 150 5X Home Laundering (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium)

No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film No cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface

All colors

Test any one color, three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small) Note: Trim to be applied on fabric or mock-up garment after testing.

AATCC158 3X Commercial Drycleaning


Required Test

Lead Content

Test Method

Required Standard


If Snap Add the following test Snap Action BV S1045




Notes All Colors

Test all sizes. One color only.

19 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Zippers (page 1 of 2)

Specification #814

Use: A = jeans, B= bottoms, C= dresses/tops, D= outerwear (for pockets “C” can be used)

Minimum sample requirement: 120 (at least 6” in length)

Required test

Crosswise chain strength Top stop holding

Test Method

Required Standard (lbf) Use Use Use Use A B C D

Notes

80

60

50

75

20

16

16

20

Bottom stop holding (stringer separation)

ASTM 2061 (14.1) ASTM 2061 (22.2) ASTM 2061 (22.5)

16

12

12

20

Non separating zipper only. Lower standards are acceptable if zipper bottom is secured by appropriate sewing in garment.

Fixed retainer pull off Separable pin pull off Holding strength of slider lock

ASTM 2061 (30.2) ASTM 2061 (30.1) ASTM 2061 (82-91)

NA

NA

16

20

Separating zippers only.

NA

NA

16

20


12

6

4

7

Only if locking slider. Report any failure Examine all components after testing and report any damage (i.e. elements, etc.).

Color fastness to washing

AATCC 61 IIA


Slider and stringer Test each color

Color fastness to drycleaning

AATCC 132


Slider and stringer Test each color.

Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Steam Press

ASTM 2054 AATCC 116 Coteco

Test each color. Tape only. Complete zipper Test each color

Operability

ASTM D2062

Dry: min. 4.5 Wet: min. 4 Staining min. 4.5 Color change: 4 and no visual change in appearance. No sticking


Test 3 different zippers

20 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Zippers (page 2 of 2) Required test Nickel test

Specification #814

Test Method EN 1811 EN 12472 Report results with and without coating

Required Standard (lbf) Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week

Notes Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors

AATCC 106 (modify if necessary)

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change. Color change: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change

Stringer and slider Test each color.

No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Maximums See “Accessories made of metal”

All colors

If used for swimwear Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to sea water Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to chlorinated pool water

AATCC 162


If painted or coated Add the following tests Lead content

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (mod.)

Heavy Metals

ASTM F963 EN 71, Part III

If metal--all with or without surface coating. If coated, test coating in each color.


Required Test

Lead Content

Test Method

Required Standard



Notes All Colors

If made of metal Heavy Metals

ASTM F963 EN 71 Part III

See above

See above

Corrosion Resistance

ASTM B117 G85 (mod) 24 hrs in 1% salt spray (fog)



Note: Exempt from the above tests are Coats, Ideal Fasteners & YKK zipper components for adults.


21 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (Page 1 of 2)

Specification #815

Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, leather patches, etc. Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping) Required test Colorfastness and appearance after washing

Colorfastness and appearance after drycleaning

Colorfastness to crocking

Test method

Required Standard

AATCC 61, IIA Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visual change in appearance AATCC 8 Dry: min. 4 or Wet: min. 3 AATCC 116 If item is too small

Notes Test all colors

Test all colors

Test all colors Report which test procedure was used

If item is a tape, ribbon, elastic, etc. add the following tests: Dimensional stability to laundering

AATCC 135

Dimensional stability to drycleaning

AATCC 158

Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment

Test one color only Three launderings

Test one color only One drycleaning only

If used on inside of garment add the following test: Color fastness to perspiration

AATCC 15


Color change: min. 3.5 Staining: min. 4

Example: neck tape, etc. Test all colors.

22 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (page 2 of 2)

Specification #815

Made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, etc.

If used in swimwear add the following tests: Required test

Test method

Colorfastness and AATCC 106 appearance after exposure to sea water Colorfastness and AATCC 162 appearance after exposure to chlorinated pool water

Required Std.

Notes

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 No visible change in appearance Color change: min. 4 No visible change in appearance

Test all colors

Test all colors


Required Test

Lead Content

Test Method

EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC02-403328, and CGC-05-440721)

Down and Feather Testing

Required Standard

Notes


All Colors

Specification #816

Minimum sample requirement: 300 grams of down and one garment or mock-up. Required Test PENETRATION RESISTANCE FEATHER/DOWN COMPOSITION

FILL POWER OXYGEN NUMBER TURBIDITY

Test Method IDFB, Method 5530 FTM 191, Method 5530 (mod.) IDFB Method 3 Fed Standard 148a

IDFB 10, IDFB 32 (tumble dry method) IDFB 21 IDFB 22


Required standard

Notes

Minimum 4

Fabric against actual filling One color only

No more than: 10% down fiber 10% feather fibers 2% landfowl feathers 2% damaged feathers 2% residue Minimum 550 cubic inches/oz Less than 10

For labeling, “USA Standards Down and Feather Products Labeling Guidelines”

Minimum 550 mm

23 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Rubber and soft plastic patches

Specification #817

Minimum sample requirement: 40 pieces Required test

Test number

Colorfastness and appearance after washing

AATCC 61 IIA

Colorfastness and appearance after drycleaning Ageing under hot/humid conditions Ageing under cold conditions

Phthalates (in PVC)

Required Standard

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping 48 hrs under No discoloration, staining, 50C (120F) and brittleness, cracking or 95% rh chipping 48 hrs under 0 No brittleness, cracking or C (32 F) chipping

Cadmium Content

Solvent extraction with LC-MS or GCMS Analysis EN 1122

BHT content

ASTM 4275

<1000 ppm of listed substances - see “Standards” <0.01% by weight Less than 25 ppm

Notes

All colors Add appearance to evaluation

Not for rubber (known to fail, use “do not dryclean” label) All colors Add appearance to evaluation Any one color

Any one color Note: test sample must be evaluated immediately, while still cold. PVC Test all colors

PVC, Pigment Coated/Painted plastic Phenol compounds (foam, plastic, etc.)

If used for swimwear add the following tests: Colorfastness and appearance after exposure to sea water

AATCC 106

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No visible change in appearance Color change: min. 4 No visible change in appearance.

Colorfastness and AATCC 162 appearance after exposure to chlorinated pool water

Test all colors

Test all colors


Required Test

Lead Content

Test Method

Required Standard




Notes All Colors

24 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL LABELS Number of labels required for testing: 25 labels minimum

TEST DESCRIPTION

SPECIFICATION #560

REQUIREMENTS

1. Durability to 50 launderings and 5 drycleaning 2. Colorfastness to Laundering - color change - staining 3. Colorfastness to Drycleaning - color change - staining 4. Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach 5. Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach 6. Colorfastness to Crocking (dry/wet) 7. Colorfastness to Perspiration - color change - staining 8. Colorfastness to Water: Sea (swimwear) - color change - staining 9. Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool (swimwear) - color change

TEST METHOD

No adverse effects

AATCC 135/158 (washing conditions as per care instructions) AATCC 61

# OF SAMPLINGS/ READINGS 3

4.0 minimum 3.5 minimum

1 AATCC 132

4.0 minimum 3.5 minimum 4.0 minimum 4.0 minimum 4.0 minimum/3.0 minimum

1


AATCC TS001 AATCC TS001 AATCC 116

1 2 1

AATCC 15

1

AATCC 106

1

AATCC 162

1


4.0 minimum


Required Test

Lead Content

Test Method

Required Standard



Size Stickers

Notes All Colors

SPECIFICATION #561

Sample Required: 20 sticker labels and one (1) yard fabric of each color in garment order. Lab. may request additional labels if necessary. Note: Sticker label MUST NOT be pre-applied on fabric. Required Test

Test Method

Required Standard

Notes

Ageing Test (under hot/humid conditions)

BV S1052

No noticeable change on sticker and residual adhesive left on test fabric.

All color fabrics in garment order

BHT Content

ASTM D4275

Less than 25 ppm

Each sticker type


25 June 2008


Yarn Testing - Production Number of Samples Required for Testing:

st

2.5 yards 1 color minimum width 36” 1 yard each additional color minimum width 36” 1 cone, 10 yards minimum

Yarn in Yarn Form Production Stage (including yarn testing protocol) •

•

•

•

All yarns purchased by Ann Taylor must be tested in accordance with the full Basic Yarn Testing Package and include the (Basic Yarn Test Package) prior to shipment from the suppliers. Samples in all colors from the first bulk production must be submitted to an Ann Taylor approved testing laboratory for evaluation. “Unfinished” yarn To be performed by country sourcing the yarn and only required if sourcing country is different o than country manufacturing the garment o

Physical testing—cone of yarn should be submitted to the laboratory.

o

Colorfastness testing--basic jersey knitdown should be submitted to the laboratory

“Finished” Yarn: o

To be performed by country manufacturing the garment.

Production yarn must be submitted as a knitdown in the correct color, stitch/gauge and finish {washing, brushing, printing, etc} to the laboratory for evaluation. o

•

For 100% Cashmere only, add the following tests on the fiber itself: Diameter of Fiber (ASTM D2130) Fiber Length (ASTM D1575)


26 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Yarn in Yarn Form - Production Required test

PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FIBER CONTENT

Specification #719 Required Standard

Test Method

Notes

AATCC 20/20A ASTMD276/629

Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

Test one solid and all top-dyed mélanges.

YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059

One color only

TWIST PER INCH

ASTM D1423

YARN STRENGTH

ASTM D2256

+/- 10% against claimed As specified by yarn supplier As specified by yarn supplier

COLORFASTNESS/ PERFORMANCE pH

AATCC 81

White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors

Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4

All colors Washable fabrics All colors Washable fabrics All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING

COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 61 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC 132 AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15

COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING

AATCC 8, 116

COLORFASTNESS TO LIGHT

AATCC 16 Option 3 20 hours


One color only One color only

All colors

All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals

All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics)

27 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Yarn in Knitted Form Testing at Production Stage. Full Garment to be performed by country manufacturing the garment. -

Must be performed on a finished garment at manufacturing stage. One color per style Every stitch and gauge

Required test PHYSICAL FIBER CONTENT

Test Method

Required standard

Specification #720 Notes

AATCC 20/20A ASTM D276/629

Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

One color only When applicable, due to construction, embellishments, trims, etc,

PERFORMANCE FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

BURSTING STRENGTH

ASTM D3786

PILLING

ASTM D3512 Random Tumble (30 minutes) Sweaters and Animal Fibers: BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 (4 hours) Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours ASTM D2594 use “Growth” for pass/fail determination; “Recovery” for informational purposes only

Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35 Sweaters: 50 All others: 3.5 Polyester/nylon: 3

One color only (See“Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) One color only



AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING

For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING

AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS

Coteco


Woven/knit: One color only Knit/sweater only: If failure, test 2 additional colors

Class 3.5 Class 3.5 In stretch direction only : For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70% Growth: 7% Length x Width (max. %) Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Sweaters: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Length x Width (max. %) -3/+2 x -3/+2 Sweaters: -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) -3/+2 x -3/+2


One color only Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)

One color only Dryclean fabrics One color only

Dryclean/dryclean only garments One color only Not required for sweaters

28 June 2008


Fabric Production Testing st

Number of Samples Required for Testing: 2.5 yards 1 color, minimum width 36”.1 yard each additional color, Minimum width 36” Responsibility of Fabric Suppliers The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor requirements prior to shipment from the mill and for the costs of such tests. •

•

•

•

•

The full basic textile package must be done on the first production dye lot of each fabric. Test report will be valid for two seasons. (Ann Taylor will specify if any additional tests must be done depending on the fabric). For each quality textile, only one color is required to be fully tested in accordance with the full basic textile testing package. Each additional color of the same quality is only required to be tested for all applicable colorfastness tests (see “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for details). The tests must be done by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. All required fabric information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor Test Request Form—Fabric”). In addition, the fabric supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor, but the supplier must keep them for review by Ann Taylor personnel if problems arise. For garments produced at vertically integrated manufacturing plants, the factory is required to submit both the textiles and garments independently for evaluation in accordance with both the full basic textile and garment testing packages. Note: All colors must be tested prior to ordering care labels. Labels may vary per color and must be ordered per lab test report recommendations. Final care label depends on how the garment as whole performs (and confirmed by the garment test).

General Fabric Testing Requirements All fabric testing must be done according to the Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols (including “Additional Testing”, when applicable). •

•

•

The fabric supplier must submit all fabrics from the first production dye lot each season. Any care label referenced must be selected from the list of Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any deviation must be approved by the N Y Director of Fabric and Testing.

•

Fabric used for trim, lining, etc. must undergo the same testing procedures as regular fabrics.

•

All tests must be performed according to the test procedures listed (i.e. AATCC, ASTM, etc.).

•

•

All fabrics submitted must be representative of all finishing processes it will be subject to during manufacturing (i.e., stone/antique washing, garment washing, flocking, printing, etc). For washed programs (such as indigo-dyed denim and heavy garment washed fabrics), before- and after- wash testing are required (see below for details).

• • • •

Before-Wash Testing Bursting strength (knits) Fabric weight Fabric count Fiber content


29 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL • • • • • •

• • • •

•

Flammability (see “Performance Specifications—Flammability” for details) Pile retention (corduroy, velvet, velour only) Pilling resistance (knits / wovens) Abrasion—denim only Seam slippage (wovens) Stretch and Recovery (fabrics containing stretch fibers, such as Spandex, Lastol, Elasterell-p) Tearing strength (wovens) Tensile strength (wovens) Yarn size (only if requested) Spray Test—only if claiming “water repellent” Rain Test—only if classified rainwear”

SEE “PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATION SHEETS /TEST PROTOCOLS” FOR STANDARDS AND TEST METHODS . After-Wash/Finish Testing See “Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols” for full testing, standards, and test methods. Note 1: The fabric supplier/manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “before-wash/finish” (see below). Note 2: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the fabric “after-wash/finish” (see Performance Specification Sheets/Test Protocols). Note 3: The garment manufacturer is responsible for the charges incurred in testing the garments after the wash/finish. •

•

•

•

•

•

All colorfastness tests are done against AATCC multifiber #10 (except crocking) unless otherwise stated in the testing protocols. Multifiber #1 should be used if rayon or silk is present in the fabric. Multifiber # 10 & #1 will be used if acrylic and silk and/or rayon are present in the fabric. (Note: If the results are marginal and the fabric is used in a critical combination, then the tests should be repeated against the actual component fabrics used in a garment). For color-blocked items, it is recommended that mock-ups be made in all colorways and submitted for colorfastness testing before fabric shipment. Fabrics must be washed/dried three times, or drycleaned one time for all shrinkage and appearance tests. Please review carefully the requirements for flammability testing in this section. Colorfastness to laundering: Hand washables: AATCC 61-1A Hand wash cold: test performed at 40 C Hand wash warm: test performed at 49 C Machine washables: AATCC 61-2A Machine wash cold: test performed at 40 C Machine wash warm: test performed at 49 C All Fabrics containing metal/metallic, in addition to all applicable basic tests must also be subject to further construction analysis: 1) number of yarns used to weave/knit fabric & number of plies/yarn and 2) fiber content by weight of each yarn.


30 June 2008


Garment Production Testing Number of Samples Required for Testing: 3 Garments Responsibility of Garment Suppliers The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor requirements (full Basic Garment Testing Package) and for the costs of such tests. The factory must send a representative garment from the beginning of their bulk production to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see “Ann Taylor Test Request Form—Garment”) Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab). •

•

*NOTE: Production garments must have all production trim/embellishments attached. If a total of 3 garments are not sent, the testing lab will contact the requestor for the additional garment. The testing lab will not proceed with the garment test until both garments have been received. Garment Test The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together while being cleaned three times (one time for drycleaning) according to the care label. We are looking for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, or anything that would make the garment look or feel undesirable. Special attention should be paid to trims, accessories, and garment prints. Care labels submitted must be taken from the Ann Taylor standard care labels. Any deviation must be approved by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing. The garment test will also evaluate the strength of all seams, stress points, and trim attachments, as well as verify the care instructions and fiber content labeling. For fiber content label, fiber content must be tested in fabric stage and verified at garment stage on all styles prior to order labels. For zipper(s) that is/are attached to the garment, the operability, chain crosswise, top stop holding, bottom stop holding and holding strength of slider lock tests are required. The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. See “Approved Laboratories for AT Softline Product”. Production textiles in all colors must be tested prior to submitting samples for garment testing. The garment testing does not replace the required fabric tests but is in addition to these. The fabric tests are important because problems with such items as tensile strength, light fastness, colorfastness to perspiration, chlorine, seawater, etc. are not revealed by our garment test. Garments must be tested in the production stage and test report will be valid for two seasons. The testing must be done after the garment is completely finished, including “garment wash”, “enzyme wash”, “stone wash”, etc, if applicable.

See “Performance Specification Sheets/Testing Protocols” for a list of the required tests. If garment dye/garment finished – need to add colorfastness tests. Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures

31 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Colorfastness to crocking test is required to be performed on all denim production garments. If dry crocking does not meet dry crocking Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions). The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier. This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production cycle. Each type/style of garment must be tested (in the correct textile quality), especially if different kinds of trim and different fabrics are used together in the same garment. It is not necessary to test every color combination, but all critical color combinations must be tested o Combinations of bright/deep colors with white/cream. Pay special attention to contrasting trim o All combinations of “red” with other light colors must always be tested because o this is the color most like to bleed. All color contrast combinations with fabrics that are known to be marginal in o colorfastness (from fabric tests) must be tested. •

•

For color-blocked items, it is recommended that mock-ups be made in all colorways and submitted for colorfastness testing before fabric shipment.

If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from each supplier.


32 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL TEST REQUEST PROCEDURES PROCEDURE FOR REQUESTING TESTING SERVICES The following is the standard operating procedure for processing test requests. Ann Taylor Request Form In order to process your requests as quickly as possible, it is imperative that all testing be submitted on an Ann Taylor Test Request Form (see page 35-37) to an approved testing laboratory (see “Approved Laboratories for Ann Taylor Softlines Product”). Request forms must be filled out completely and accurately at the time of submission, including: Fiber Content – Do not abbreviate. Must use proper FTC generic names for fiber(s). If the product contains a trade name fiber, it must be listed in conjunction with the appropriate FTC generic name. Quality/Style Number – For trim, yarn, and textiles, use the raw material supplier’s quality identification number. For garments/finished products, use the assigned Ann Taylor style number. Color – Identify using Ann Taylor approved name(s) and number(s). AT Division – Must indicate as appropriate--either Stores, Loft, or Factory Stores. AT Department number - Must indicate appropriate 2 digit AT department number. All trim, fabric, and garment details as listed on the test request forms. Requestor name/telephone/fax/e-mail – Must indicate the full name of person requesting testing including telephone number, fax number, and e-mail address. Proposed Care Instructions – Must be included, and should reference AT standard care instructions. If proposed care instructions indicate laundering, must include wash temperature and cycle, bleaching instructions, dry temperature and cycle, and ironing instructions. If care instructions are unknown, please indicate “lab to provide”. . Service requested –Check appropriate box. Requested testing 1) Must advise if sample is Development or Production. 2) Must select type of testing. a) Basic Test Package - no additional information is required. b) Additional Color Test Only – must also advise previous full basic test report number. c) Retest - must also advise previous report number and the failed property (properties) that are to be re-tested. d) Other - must specify requested test(s). e) Garment Test -must also advise corresponding fabric and trim test report numbers. Product Category - Check all appropriate boxes. Billing Information - Must be fully completed including: company name, address, contact name, telephone number and fax number. AT Contact Name - Must be included •

•

• • • • •

•

• •

• •

•

Note: Request forms must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. It is important to note that the information provided on the request form is required by Ann Taylor for product tracking purposes and will determine which performance standard to apply to your product.


33 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Requests received without all the required information cannot be processed and will be handled as follows: Testing Services Coordinator will contact the supplier via telephone, fax and/or e-mail and request the required information. The requestor will be notified and a “Hold” status will be placed on the request. The sample and all paperwork will be held for two working days. Should the supplier fail to reply within the two-day time period, the request will be “Canceled” and the requestor will be notified for disposition of samples. Upon receipt of required information/samples, the request will be reprocessed and the “revised date” will appear on the Request form as well as on the Test report . •

• • •

•

Processing Routine Requests for Testing: The following summarizes the standard procedure for processing routine test requests. The Testing Service will test only what is requested in accordance with Ann Taylor standards and policy. When a submission is received that does not fall within the guidelines below, the requestor will be notified prior to the start of testing. I. Initial Submissions: Testing service will test only what is requested by the supplier, as stated in the request form! Requests for all “Basic Package” testing will override all other requests for testing. In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing does not include all special testing requested, the additional tests will be included along with the standard test package. In cases where fabric and/or garment package testing has not been requested, only the tests specified will be performed. Please state weight in fabric oz/sq. yd, g/m2 or sweater garment lbs/dz. Do not abbreviate care instructions or fiber content. Garment testing and additional colorway testing must have the original report numbers referenced, otherwise the requests will be placed on “Hold”. • •

•

•

•

II. Retest Submissions: For retest submissions include previous report number and specify which test needs to be performed. Retest submissions received without a previous report number listed and without specific instructions included, will be handled using the “Hold” criteria listed above.

Note: Any variations to standard BV testing procedures will be outlined in the “executive summary” section of the corresponding test report. III. Ann Taylor Testing Service Options: The network of testing laboratories makes every effort to evaluate products in the shortest possible time. Regular Service: 3 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the samples. (Normal fee applied) Priority Service: 2 working days, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the samples. (Normal fee + 40% surcharge applied) Express Service: 1 working day, beginning the day after the laboratory receives the samples. This only applies to tests that can be processed and submitted within 1 working day (normal fee + 50% surcharge applied). •

•

•


34 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Testing for “Priority” and “Express” services are limited only to those tests that can be completed within the specified service time. Requests received, with either of these services selected, requiring a test(s) that falls outside of the service parameters, will follow on a separate report and the vendor and appropriate requestor personnel will be notified. Use the express service option only when necessary to minimize reporting delays created by a significant increase in "special" service requests. Full package testing cannot be completed with Express Service. *Notes: If due to tests required, more than the requested service is needed to complete testing, the lab must communicate to the requestor within 24 hours of receipt of the sample what the expected completion date will be. •

•

All package program testing will be completed within the regular service except: 1) Swimwear: colorfastness to light (40 hours) – require 5 days 2) Products containing feather/down – require 7 days 3) Leather Products – require 7 days 4) Products made of fiber or fiber blends requiring microscopic analysis – require 5 days. 5) Trim testing that involves nickel release test---require 10 days 6) Labels: durability to 50 launderings and 5 drycleanings – require 5 days. 7) Washable Merino Wool – 10 Washes requires 4 days 8) Easy Care in 5x, 10x, 25x washes requires 8 days minimum

Ann Taylor Test Result Ratings Each test property as well as the overall rating of the final report will be based on the following Ann Taylor established rating system:

APPROVED APPROVED WITH TOLERANCE - may proceed. REJECTED - should not proceed.


35 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS APPROVED LABORATORIES FOR ANN TAYLOR SOFTLINES PRODUCTS Ann Taylor has selected Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services, Inc. (BVCPS) as the primary service provider. Ann Taylor also recognizes test reports from Intertek Labtest Testing Services (ITS) when preapproved by Director of Fabric and Testing, New York. Except in the above situation, all product testing should be directed to Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Testing Services Group. In certain countries where Bureau Veritas Product Services does not have an approved testing laboratory, testing should be directed to the nearest approved Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services laboratory. The following laboratories have been approved by Ann Taylor to conduct laboratory consumer testing in accordance to Ann Taylor performance standards. The approved laboratory and contact information is listed below. Please note that not all laboratories are approved to conduct all tests, see (*).

CHINA Bureau Veritas Consumer Product Services (Shanghai) Softline Divisions Address: No.168, Guanghua Road, Zhuanqiao Town, Minhang, Shanghai, China. Post Code: 201108 Tel: 86-21-2408188 Fax: 86-21-64890042 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Alvin Fung Intertek Testing Services Shanghai Ltd. (Exclusively on specialty & luxury animal fiber products such as alpaca, cashmere, camel hair, mohair, Angora rabbit, mink etc.) nd Address: 2 Floor, Nr. 2 Building, Shanghai Comalong Industrial Park Nr. 9 Yishan Road, Shanghai, China 200233 Tel: 86-21-6120-6060 Fax: 86-21-6485-0592 Contact: Ms. Linda Shi, General Manager Email: [email protected]

HONG KONG Bureau Veritas Hong Kong Ltd. Consumer Product Services (Kwai Chung Office) Address: Unit 1314, Vantas Industrial Centre, 21-33 Tai Lin Pai Road, Kwai Chung, N.T., Hong Kong Tel: 852-2418-1222 Fax: 852-2485-1125 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Bonnie Chung

INDIA - NOIDA Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (India) Pvt. Ltd. Address: F-5, Sector VIII, Noida 201 301, Gautam Buddnagar Uttar Pradesh, India Tel: 91-120-2424878 Fax: 91-120-2424880 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Paromita Roy


36 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL INDIA - BANGALORE Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (India) Pvt. Ltd. st Add: 1-2-3, Mereside Heights (1 floor), Pai Layout, Old Madras Road Benniganahalli, Bangalore—16, Karnataka—India Tel: 0091-80-28531432 Fax: 0091-80-28531397 Email: [email protected] Contact: Niraj Singh

INDONESIA PT. Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Indonesia Mailing Address Add: Jl. Cideng Timur No.38 nd Gedung KKM, 2 Floor, Jakarta Pusat 10130, Indonesia Tel: 62-21-634-8877 Fax: 62-21-634-8838 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Darwi Tandiono

ITALY ICQ Global SRL Add: Via Europa N. 28, 22060, Cabiate (CO) Italy Tel: 39-031-768-403 Fax: 39-031-756-106 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Pamela Villa Bureau Veritas/Brachi Lab. Laboratio di Analisi Prove e Ricereche Tessil Add : Via Fonda di Mezzana 61/L 59100 Prato Tel : +0574591343 Fax : +0574593975 Main Contact in Brachi: Giancarlo DI BLASI (0574 – 591343) malto:[email protected] Main Contact in BV (Milano): Stefano Vaccari (02 – 27091 214) mailto:[email protected]

BUZZI - Textile Laboratory (Exclusively on specialty & luxury animal fiber products such as alpaca, cashmere, camel hair, mohair, Angora rabbit, mink etc.) Add: Viale della Repubblica, 9-59100 Prato - Italy Tel: 39-0574-589-887 Fax: 39-0574-589-890 E-mail: [email protected]


37 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL JAPAN-TOKYO c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation Add: 4-4-20, Hongokucho, Nihonbashi, Chuo-Ku, Tokyo 103-0021, Japan Tel: 81-3-3241-7319 Fax: 81-3-3245-0773 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Mr. Takuo Ishizuka

JAPAN-OSAKA c/o Japan Synthetic Textile Inspection Institute Foundation Add: 2-5-19, Edobori, Nishi-Ku, Osaka 550-0002, Japan Tel: 81-6-6441-0310 Fax: 81-6-6441-0323 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Norihiko Nakayama KOREA KOTITI (Softlines Only) Add: 819-5, Yoksam-1Dong, Gangnam-Gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: 822-3451-7000 Fax: 822-3451-7172 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Contact: Mr. Kyu Huh, Dr. Young Kim

KEMTI (Hardlines Only) Add: 459-28, Gasan-Dong, Geumcheon-Gu, Seoul, Korea Tel: 82-2-2102-2553, 2554 Fax: 82-2-856-6181 E-mail: [email protected] Contact Person: Hoyoung Kim, Dongjoon Kim

PHILIPPINES Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services Philippines Inc. Add: 8439 S. Super Highway, West Service Road Paranaque City, Philippines Tel: 632-824-2825 Fax: 632-824-1430 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Ms. Carmela Babor

SINGAPORE Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Pte) Ltd. Add: 11 UBI Road 1, Meiban Industrial Building, #07-01 Singapore 408723 Tel: 65-6283-8366 Fax: 65-6283-8966 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Ms. Joeie Tsang


38 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL SRI LANKA Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Lanka) Private Ltd. Add: 270 Dehiwela Road, Bellanwila, Sri Lanka Tel: 94-11-2739546 Fax: 94-11-2739548 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Ms. Chanaki De Costa

TAIWAN Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Hong Kong) Ltd. – Taiwan Branch Add: The AETNA Tower, 2F(2A1), No. 37, Zhongyang S. Road, Sec. 2, Beitou, Taipei, 112, Taiwan R.O.C. Tel: 886-2-2895-3666 Fax: 886-2-2895-6999 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Jane Lo

THAILAND Bureau Veritas Consumer Products Services (Thailand) Ltd. Add: 2410 Sukhumvit Road Phrahanong, Bangkok 10206, Thailand Tel: 662-7447200 Fax: 662-7447202 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Mr. Poomthavatch Sukanhaketu (Poom)

TURKEY BVCPS Test Laboratuvarlari Ltd. Sti. Add: Mehmet Akif Mah., Express Cad., Can Sok., No: 31, KAT:3, Ikitelli, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: 90-212-4943535 Fax: 90-212-494-3560 E-mail: [email protected] Contact: Atanur Dikmen

USA Currently no nominated Lab in the USA.


39 June 2008


ANN TAYLOR TEST PACKAGE PRICES – SOFTLINES DESCRIPTION Yarn Development Production -Additional Color (initial submit) -Separate Color Submit Fabric Development Production (Before Wash – for washed programs) Production (After Wash) -Additional Color (initial submit) -Separate Color Submit Garment (excluding leather cleaning cost) - Denim - Others Trims Non-Metallic Metal Zippers Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc Down and Feather Rubber and Soft Plastic Patches Size Sticker

EUROPE

FAR EAST / MEXICO

$115* $145* $41 $77

$92* $112* $31 $62

$125* $75*

$105* $55*

$160* $47 $77 $77*

$135* $35 $62 $62*

$77*

$70* $62*

$70* $290* $140* $60* $345* $125* -

$46* $152* $65* $24* $285* $85* $154*

* Does not include additional charges see below: ADDITIONAL CHARGES FOR YARN & TEXTILE Quantitative Fiber Analysis Per Fiber (Chemical) -Each Additional fiber (chemical) Per Fiber (Microscopic) -Each Additional fiber (microscopic) Fiber Content/Yarn– Metallic Fabrics Only Fiber Length Flammability Ozone (1 cycle) Burnt Gas fumes (1 cycle) pH Stretch & Recovery Narrow Elastic Performance Bra Band Elongation Pile Retention Shedding Propensity Colorfastness to Sea Water Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Formaldehyde (Quantitative) Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures

USA / EUROPE

$47 $47 $232 $72 $47 per fiber $150 $88 $80 $90 $26 $78 $55 $55 $36 $55 $21 $21 $78

FAR EAST / MEXICO

$13 $13 $98 $36 $26 per fiber $102 $30 $23 $23 $16 $16 $16 $10 $14 $32 $7 $11 $32

40 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ADDITIONAL CHARGES FOR TRIMS Dimensional Stability to Laundering Dimensional Stability to Drycleaning Colorfastness and Appearance after Washing Colorfastness and Appearance after Drycleaning Colorfastness to Crocking Colorfastness to Perspiration Colorfastness and Appearance after Exposure to Sea Water Colorfastness and Appearance after Exposure to Chlorinated Pool Water Durability to Impact during Laundering Button Centre Strength Snap Action Heavy Metal Nickel Test (Complete) Nickel Test (Pre Abrasion) Corrosion Resistance Phthalates (in PVC) Cadmium Content BHT Content Lead Content

EUROPE

FAR EAST / MEXICO

$57 $42 $70

$32 $22 $45 (including 3 sizes/shapes)

$78

$55 (including 3 sizes/shapes)

$16 $21 $25

$10 $15 $15

$30

$20

$60 $25 $25 $125 $125 per component $17 per component $60 $150 $75 $125 $52 per color

$35 (including 3 sizes/shapes) $12 $11 $45 $58 per component $13 per component $38 $85 $24 $82 $24 per color

NOTE: 1. PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTIFICATION 2. MINIMUM CHARGE PER REPORT: $50.00


41 June 2008


ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES SOFTLINES (All prices are in US Dollar) $21 $52 $16 $31

FAR EAST/MEXICO $12 $15 $14 $18

$11 $11

$11 $11

AATCC 135 /150 Commercial

$57 / $78 $42

$44 $37 / $48 $23

16 CFR PART 1610 ASTM D3886

$88

$46

$31

$16

ASTM D3512 ASTM D5034 ASTM D1424 / D2261 ASTM D3787 AATCC 81 ASTM D1683 ASTM D1683 AATCC TS 015 ASTM D3107/ ASTM D2594 AATCC 22

$36 $31 $31

$17 $16 $16

$26 $26 $31 $47 $31 $78

$16 $17 $12 Per Seam $34 $12 Per Seam $26

$21

$14

AATCC 35 AATCC 35

$40 $55

$31 $42

Per Care Label

$47 / $67 / $129/$295

Per Care Label

$11 $36

$42 / $59 / $98/ $233 $9 $30

TEST ITEM

Fabric Weight Yield Twist Per Inch Thread Count Yarn Size Fabric Type / Weave Yarn Structure Dimensional Stability 3 Handwashes 3 M/C Washes / 5 M/C Washes 1 Drycleaning Flammability General Apparel Abrasion Resistance Pilling Resistance Random Tumble Tensile Strength (Length / Width) Tear Strength (Length / Width) Bursting Strength pH Seam Strength Yarn Slippage Seam Stretchability Stretch & Recovery Spray Test Rain Test Rain Test Wash / Drycleaning Effects of Washing 3 /5/10/25 Washes Each Additional Wash Effects of Drycleaning

TEST METHOD

ASTM D3776 ASTM D3775 ASTM D3775 ASTM D1059 / D1907 Visual Visual


USA/EUROPE

42 June 2008


ANN TAYLOR INDIVIDUAL TEST PRICES SOFTLINES (ALL PRICES ARE IN US DOLLAR) TEST ITEM

TEST METHOD

EUROPE

FAR EAST/ MEXICO

Colorfastness Properties Laundering Drycleaning Light

Perspiration Water Crocking (Dry / Wet) Sea Water Chlorinated Pool Water Chlorine Bleach Non-Chlorine Bleach Burnt Gas fumes (1 Cycle) Ozone (1 Cycle) Fiber Content Chemical Method Microscopic Method Air Permeability Breathability Absorbency Wicking UV Transmittance Lead Content Heat Aging Formaldehyde Qualitative Quantitative Type of Dye / Finish / Coating AZO DYE Wrinkle Free Fabric / Seams Fabric only Fit Properties Socks Pantyhose Snap Action

AATCC 61 AATCC 132 AATCC 16E (10 hours) (20 Hours) (40 Hours) AATCC 15 AATCC 107 AATCC 8/116 AATCC 106 AATCC 162 AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 23 AATCC 109

$26 $26 $20 $31 $62 $21 $21 $16 $21 $21 $21 $21 $75 $75

$12 $16 $12 $18 $34 $15 $10 $10 $12 $18 $10 $13 $23 $23

AATCC 20A/ASTM D629 AATCC 20A/ A STM D629 ASTM D2130 ASTM D737 ASTM E96 AATCC 79 BV Method ASTM D6603 16 CFR 1303, ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.) BV S-1052

$47/Fiber $232 / First $72 / Additional $85 $150 $50 $64 $150 $52 / Color

$14 $100 $37 $26 $23 $12 $12 $10 $25

-

$72

Spot Test JIS L1041 IR SPECTRA EN14362-2

$129 $129

$16 $48 $60 $57

AATCC 143 AATCC 124

$98 $55

$82 $42

HTC Method HTC Method ASTM D4846

$98 / Size $129 / Size 52 (first garment/10 snaps) 36 (add'l garment/ 10 snaps)

$43 $31

NOTE: 1. PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTIFICATION 2. MINIMUM CHARGE PER REPORT: $50.00


43 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—TRIM Service Requested:

Regular (3 working days)

Priority (2 working days on selective tests)

Contact Information Division Department # Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code # Requestor Name Telephone Fax E-mail AT Office/Agent Contact Trim Information Season Trim Supplier Garment Facility/ Factory Supplier Trim Number Detailed Sample Description Sample Style Number P.O. Number Color/ Color Combination Internally Dyed/ Dyed to Match Coating/ Paint Size Material Nickel-free (Yes/No) Submitted Care Instructions Sample Status

Trim Test Requested Retest* - Test Item(s) Previous Test Report #

Basic Package Development Production

Non-Metallic Metallic Zippers

Additional Color or Size Other (Specify tests:

* Must explain below what improvement was made if retest is for previous restricted substances failure(s)

)

Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. Rubber and soft plastic patches Other (Please specify)

Feather & Down Label Size Sticker

Required Additional Information Previous Complete Report # Comments/Special Instructions

Billing information Company: Address:

Contact: Telephone:

Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merc handise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge.

Applicant’s Test Order Number:


__________

44 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—FABRIC/ YARN Service Requested:


Priority (2 working days on selective tests)

Contact Information Division Department # Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code # Requestor Name Telephone Fax E-mail AT Office/Agent Contact

Fabric Information Season Fabric (or Yarn) Supplier RMID #/Fabric Quality/Style Number P.O. Number Type of Fabric (Woven/Knit) Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, etc.) Fabric Weight Fiber Content Yarn Dye/Piece Dye Finishing Applied Color(s) Submitted Care Instructions

Sample Status

Item(s) to be Tested

Fabric Test Requested

Fabric

Basic Package

Yarn (in yarn form)

Additional Color

Yarn (in knitted form)

Other (Specify tests:

Retest * - Test Item(s) Previous Test Report #

Development Production

Product Category Top/Dress/Jacket Outerwear Denim

Bottom Intimate Leather

)


Sweater Sleepwear Suits/ Coordinates

Active/ Swim

Required Additional Information Previous Complete Test Report # Comments/Special Instructions Billing information Company:

Contact:

Address:

Telephone:

Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge. Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete data results in time delay.

Applicant’s Test Order Number: Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures

___________

45 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ANN TAYLOR ADULT TEST REQUEST FORM—GARMENT Service Requested:


Priority (2 working days on selective test(s)

Contact Information Division Department # Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code # Requestor Name Telephone Fax E-mail AT Office/Agent Contact

Garment Information Season Garment Facility (factory) Style Number P.O. Number Reference Style # (if applicable) Garment Description Fiber Content Color/ Color Combination Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.) Submitted Care Instructions

Sample Status

Development

Production

Garment Test Requested

Retest * - Test Item(s) Previous Test Report #

Basic Package

Other (Specify tests:

Product Category Top/Dress/Jacket Denim Outerwear

)


Bottom Intimate Leather

Sweater Sleepwear

Suits/ Coordinates Active/ Swim

Required Additional Information Previous Complete Test Report # Comments/Special Instructions Billing information Company:

Contact:

Address:

Telephone:

Fax:

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merc handise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Priority service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge. Note: This request form must be fully completed before the laboratories are able to process your request. Any incomplete data results in time delay.

Applicant’s Test Order Number:


______________

46 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL PRODUCT PERFORMANCE The following performance standards and testing pro tocols were developed to effectively analyze and monitor the physical characteristics of trims, yarns, textiles, and garments to ensure their compliance with all federal, state, international and local requirements. The standards and procedures were developed based on actual physical test data and in accordance with guidelines established by the: • • • • • • • •

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) British Standards (BS) Code of Federal Regulations (CFR) Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA) Federal Trade Commission (FTC) Food and Drug Administration (FDA)

These specifications will be updated periodically to reflect changes in technology and data available or as new fibers / fabrications are developed. The fabric performance standards listed in this manual are generally suitable for the garment applications stated. However, each individual garment must be reviewed for special requirements. All suppliers are required to ensure that their products meet these performance specifications. If a product cannot meet these specifications, the supplier is required to notify Ann Taylor in writing prior to the placement of an order for that product. The garment manufacturer must report any problems with the fabric, trim, accessories, or the design/construction of the garment to the regional Ann Taylor Production Office/Agent and suggest ways to correct the problem.

COLORFASTNESS: The supplier must take every possible step to assure that the colorfastness requirements are met. Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra rinsing, dye fixation, etc. Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used where applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not acceptable, unless specifically requested by Ann Taylor for special effects.

WATER RESISTANCE: In order for a garment to qualify for the special “water resistance” classification/duty, it must be coated with a rubber or plastic application AND pass a water resistance test (AATCC 35; < 1 gram). The water resistance MUST be a direct result of the rubber or plastic application.

FIBER CONTENT All analyses for fiber content are to use AATCC 20, 20A, ASTM D276 & D629.


47 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL FLAMMABILITY All fabrics and (fabric) trims must meet the requirements of the United States Flammable Fabrics Act, Class 1 (Consumer Product Safety Commission, Standard 16 CFR 1610). Note 1: If “anti-flammability” chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann Taylor. Special testing will be required. Note 2: Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or garment stage, it is the supplier's responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger form before proceeding with production. a.

All fabrics with an “intentionally raised fiber or yarn surface” must be tested for flammability, if such surface is “exposed” on the garment. These are fabrics that are sanded, napped, brushed, tufted, etc. It does not matter if the raising of the fibers is done in yarn or fabric form. The test must always be performed on the fabric side that has the raised surface, no matter which side of the fabric will be used as the “face side”. Even if the raised surface is to be used as the inside of the garment it should be tested, if there is the possibility of a consumer exposing it by the way the garment is worn (i.e. turn up the sleeves for wearing). If the garment will be lined so that the raised surface cannot be exposed, then it need not be tested. Note: As it is not clear on the term “raised yarn surface”, such fabrics as french terry, terry, and very coarse or loose knit sweaters or coarse sweaters with loose floats should also be tested.

Exceptions: Fabrics with a raised surface do not have to be tested if they are manufactured entirely with these fibers, or blends including only these specific fibers, regardless of weight: Acrylic, Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, or Wool. b.

All fabrics weighing less than 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square meter) must be tested unless composed entirely of the following fibers: Acrylic , Modacrylic, Nylon, Olefin, Polyester, Wool

c.

Plain surface fabrics, regardless of fiber content, weighting 2.6 oz/square yard (88 grms/square meter) or more, do not have to be tested for flammability.

d.

Hats (if they do not cover the face or neck), gloves, footwear, and interlinings are exempt from flammability testing.

e.

The testing requirement applies to all parts of the garment, including trim.

f.

Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and /or garment stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trim would comply with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger form before proceeding with production.

g.

If incorrect fiber content is claimed by the supplier, but through actual fiber analysis by the lab it is determined that flammability testing is in fact re quired, this test will automatically be performed by the laboratory.

h.

Anti-flammability chemicals: If such chemical finishes are used, then the supplier must notify Ann Taylor, and special testing will be required.


48 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Feather and down material must be: tested for composition properly cleaned and disinfected. • •

Penetration Resistance of fabric: All fabrics intended for use in feather and down garments must pass “Penetration Resistance of cloth to feather and down”: FTMS 191, method 5530 (modified) or IDFB Method 5530. The test must be done with actual down/feather mix that will be used (instead of o the standard 60/40 feather/down mix) The test report must state the down/feather composition used for the test. o •

•

If any other fiber fill is used (i.e. polyfill or fiber batten), a representative sample of the construction must be tested.

Nickel Any metal part that comes in prolonged contact with the skin must be “free of nickel”. Nickel-free: The requirement is a “transfer to the skin” measurement, and the standard is: <0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week. Examples of various types of skin contact: Metal accessories on outerwear usually do not come in contact with the skin except maybe the back of snaps on the cuffs, etc. The back of rivets on pants can come in contact with the skin (but not the part of the rivet that is on the outside of the garment). The back of snaps on a shirt definitely can be in contact with the skin (but not the part of the snap that is on the outside of the garment). Metal zippers on outerwear usually do not come in contact with the skin. Metal zippers on a sweatshirt will come in contact with the skin (unless it has a cover flap underneath). •

•

•

• •

The garment manufacturer must order items as “nickel-free” if required.

Lead a. In accordance with 16 CFR 1303, any paint or coating used must not contain more than 0.06% (600 ppm) of lead. Examples: Painted buttons, snaps, zippers, etc. Pigment prints and dyes Coating and lamination of fabric • • •

b. In accordance with EPA 3051 modified (San Francisco Supreme Court 317256, CGC-02403328 and CGC-05-440721), material containing PVC must not contain more than 30 ppm of lead. Examples: PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats. Decals and attachment on clothing • •


49 June 2008


TESTING PROTOCOLS Ann Taylor Corporate 1. Bottoms (Career/Casual Skirt/Short/Pant) 2. Tops, Dresses, Jackets (Career/Casual) 3. Suits and Coordinates (Career/Casual) 4. Outerwear 5. Denim Apparel (Indigo-dyed) 6. Intimates (including bras, camisoles, panties) 7. Sleepwear 8. Active/Swim Wear (incl. leotards, sweatshirts/tops, sweatpants/shorts)Sweaters 9. Sweaters 10. Leather 11. Additional Testing (as applicable) 12. Non-Metallic Trim 13. Trims made of metal 14. Zippers 15. Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc. 16. Down and Feather 17. Rubber and Soft Plastic Patches 18. Labels 19. Size Sticker 20. Yarn in Yarn Form 21.Yarn in Knitted Form Branded & Co-branded 1. Bottoms (Career/Casual Skirt/Short/Pant) 2. Tops, Dresses, Jackets (Career/Casual) 3. Suits and Coordinates (Career/Casual) 4. Outerwear 5. Denim Apparel (Indigo-dyed) 6. Intimates (including bras, camisoles, panties) 9. Sweaters


001 002 003 004 005 006 007 008 009 010 011 812 813 814 815 816 817 560 561 719 720 001A 002A 003A 004A 005A 006A 009A

50 June 2008


BOTTOMS (#001) Page 1 of 3

(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT) FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method

Notes

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only

ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A ASTMD276/629 ASTM D1059

+/- 5% Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% +/- 10%


Negative

One color only

pH

Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81

White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

One color only (see “Performance Specifications Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors

YARN SIZE

PERFORMANCE FORMALDEHYDE

For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



Non-stretch upon request (one color only)

75 ppm

Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)

Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.

51 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Required test Performance (cont’d)

Bottoms #001 (page 2 of 3) Required standard Notes

Test Method


Coteco

TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH

AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D5034

TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424

SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE

ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage)

No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0 (min. lbs) 20

Prototype seam PILLING

BURSTING STRENGTH

Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum: All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3

ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours Other animal fibers: 4 hours ASTM D3786

One color only

One color only Wovens: one color only

Wovens: one color only


Knit/woven: One color only Knits only: If failure, test 2 additional colors.

3.5 3.5

Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55

Knits: One color only

AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm

Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors (as applicable)

COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH

AATCC TS-001

Minimum Color change: 4

Washable fabrics; All colors

COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH

AATCC TS-001



COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING


52 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Colorfastness, cont’d

Bottoms #001 (page 3 of 3)

COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15


AATCC 8, 116


AATCC 16 Option 3, 20 hours Silk:10 hours

GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING

Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4

Test Method AATCC 150, 3 cycles (as per care instructions)

AATCC 158, 1 cycle

All colors



Required standard Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5% 7.0 lbs or 50% elongation



TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 AATCC TS 015


ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029

TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button (Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength)

BV S1023 BV S1044

ZIPPER TEST

ASTM D2061

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423

Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303

Verify all fiber content claims


Minimum (lbs): 20 Stress Points: 15 Pockets (decorative/functional): 10/20 Belt loops/pleats: 10 Lining: 15 lbs Minimum (lbs): 15

Notes

Knits only All seams Actual seams; all seams

All on garment

All zipper brands

53 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 1 of 3

TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002) (CAREER/CASUAL) FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method

Notes

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only

ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A


ASTMD276/629

+/- 5% Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

ASTM D1059

+/- 10%


Negative

One color only

pH



All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only (See “Performance Specifications -Flammability for details) Woven-One color only Knits—all colors

YARN SIZE


75 ppm



AATCC 158, 1 cycle




Coteco



Woven - -One color only Knits—all colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only

54 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Required test Performance, continued

Tops/Dresses #002, page 2 of 3 Required standard Notes

Test Method



TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424

SEAM SLIPPAGE/STRENGTH

ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam

PILLING

ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour

BURSTING STRENGTH



BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786

AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15


AATCC 8, 116




Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: < 4 oz/sq yard: 20 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 lbs (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 1.8 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0 (min. lbs) 15 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3

3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35








Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4

Washable fabrics; All colors Washable fabrics; All colors All colors

All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics)

55 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING

Required standard




TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING

AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015

7.0 lbs or 50% elongation


ASTM D1683 BV S1027

Seams/Stress points: 15 Pockets (Decorative/Functional): 5/10 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15

AATCC 158, 1 cycle

BV S1029 TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength)

BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)

ZIPPER TEST

ASTM D2061

Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. #814 for requirements.

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423

Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303



Notes


All on garment

All zipper brands

56 June 2008


SUITS/COORDINATES (#003) (CAREER/CASUAL) FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method

Page 1 of 3 Notes

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only



ASTMD276/629

+/- 5% Single Fiber:-no tolerance Blends: -+/- 3%

ASTM D1059

+/- 10%


Negative

One color only

pH



All colors



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

Woven: One color only Knits: All colors

YARN SIZE


75 ppm



AATCC 158, 1 cycle




Coteco



Woven: -One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only

57 June 2008


Test Method



TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424


ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour

PILLING

BURSTING STRENGTH



Suits/Coordinates #003, Page 2 of 3 Required standard Notes Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0 (min. lbs) 15 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3


AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15


3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55








Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors All colors

58 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Suits/Coordinates #003, Page 3 of 3 Colorfastness (con’t) COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING



AATCC 8, 116

Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4

AATCC 16 Option 3, 20 hours Silk: 10 hours

Required standard






Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015



ASTM D1683 BV S 1027 BV S 1029

TRIM PERFORMANCE


Minimum (lbs) Seams/stress points: 15 Pockets (decorative/functional): 5/10 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15

AATCC 158, 1 cycle

(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST

ASTM D2061

Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements.

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303





Notes


All on garment

All zipper brands

59 June 2008


OUTERWEAR (#004) FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method

Page 1 of 3 Notes

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only


+/- 5% Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% +/- 10%


Negative

One color only

pH



All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors

ASTMD276/629 YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059



75 ppm



AATCC 158, 1 cycle




Coteco



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only

60 June 2008


Test Method



TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424


ASTM D434 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour

PILLING

Outerwear #004, Page 2 of 3 Required standard Notes Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 6 oz/sq yard: 40 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 50 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2.0 (min. lbs) 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3

BURSTING STRENGTH

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers:2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786

COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO WATER

AATCC 107



AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15


AATCC 8, 116


AATCC 16 Option 3 20 hours


3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55

One color only Wovens: One color only

Wovens: One color only




Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors (except white)

Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ Sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4

Washable fabrics; all colors


Washable fabrics; all colors All colors



61 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/ DRYCLEANING


Required standard

APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/ DRYCLEANING TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRY CLEANING


Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance


Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015



ASTM D1683 BV S 1027 BV S1029

DOWNPROOFNESS

IDFL 5530 (Tumbling Method) FTM 191, Method 5530 (modified) BV S1023 BV S1044 (not limited to buttons and snaps)

Seams: 25 Stress Points: 20 Pockets (decorative/functional): 10/20 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining; 15 Minimum 4


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST

ASTM D2061


If down product

Minimum (lbs): 15

All on garment

All zipper brands

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423

Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303



Notes

62 June 2008


DENIM APPAREL (#005) Page 1 of 3

(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment) Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21

FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS

Required standard

Test Method

Notes

FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

ASTM D3775/D3887

+/- 5%

FIBER CONTENT

AATCC 20/20A

ASTMD276/629

Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends-: +/- 3%

ASTM D1059

+/- 10%

Non-stretch upon request

Spot Test MTL C1007

Negative

For all “washes” - one color only.

75 ppm

pH

If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81

4.5-7

After final wash treatments; all “colors/washes”

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

(See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details)



Length x Width (max. %) -3/+3 x -3/+3


AATCC 158, 1 cycle





Coteco

TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING


Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) -2/+2 x -2/+2 3%

Washable fabrics All washes, one color only. Dryclean fabrics All washes, one color only All washes, one color only

YARN SIZE

All washes, one color only All washes, one color only One color only



All washes, one color only


63 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Denim #005, Page 2 of 3

Required test Performance, con’t

Required standard

Test Method

TENSILE STRENGTH

ASTM D5034

TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424

(min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <5 oz/sq yard: 30 5-7.9 oz/sq yard: 40 8-9.9 oz/sq yard: 50 10-11.9 oz/sq yard: 60 >12 oz/sq yard: 70 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <5 oz/sq yard: 2 5-7.9 oz/sq yard: 3 8-9.9 oz/sq yard: 4 10-11.9 oz/sq yard:5 >12: 6 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 No rupture of yarn.


AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C AATCC TS 001

Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum 4

All washes, all colors (as applicable)

AATCC TS 001

Minimum 4

AATCC 15

Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum: Dry: 3; Wet 2 If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Minimum 4 Minimum 4

ASTM D2261 (>10 oz/yd2)

SEAM SLIPPAGE/ STRENGTH

ASTM D434 Prototype seam

ABRASION

ASTM D3886 300 cycles

COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION


AATCC 8, 116


AATCC 16 Option 3 20 hours AATCC 109 (1 cycle) AATCC 23 (1 cycle)

COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT GAS FUMES

Notes





Washable fabrics; All washes, all colors Washable fabrics; all washes, all colors All washes, all colors

All washes, all colors

All washes, all colors Except lining/ pocketing fabrics All washes, all colors All washes, all colors

64 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Denim #005, Page 3 of 3

GARMENT TESTING Required test

16 CFR 303

CARE LABEL

16 CFR 423

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO HOME LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING

As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle AATCC 8, 116

APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING

As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029

TWIST AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING SEAM STRENGTH/ SLIPPAGE

TRIM PERFORMANCE (Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength) ZIPPER TEST

Required standard

Test Method

FIBER CONTENT

Compliance to regulation; Verification of label Compliance to regulation; Verification of label Length x Width (max %) Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 Remark: If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions). Color change: 4 No visible staining Appearance satisfactory Maximum 3%


ASTM D2061


Notes


Minimum (lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-8 oz/sq yard: 20 >8.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Pockets: 20 Belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15

All seams


All zipper brands

All on garment

65 June 2008


INTIMATES (#006) (Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties) Page 1 of 3

FABRIC TESTING Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method

Notes

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only



ASTMD276/629

+/- 5% Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

ASTM D1059

+/- 10%


Negative

One color only

pH


White (bleached), wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only (see “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors

YARN SIZE


75 ppm



AATCC 158, 1 cycle




Coteco



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only

66 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Intimates #006, Page 2 of 3 Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH


TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424



PILLING


BURSTING STRENGTH

NARROW ELASTICS PERFORMANCE BRA BAND ELONGATION


COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH

Required standard

Test Method

Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 20 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/Pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 1.8 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3


ASTM D4964

Notes One color only Wovens: One color only




3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35 85% Recovery


As required for narrow elastics Bra bands only

BV S1019

Maximum setting: 2.4-3.5 lbs Minimum setting: 1.5-2.5 lbs

AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm



AATCC TS-001

Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4


AATCC TS-001



67 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Intimates #006, Page 3 of 3

Required test

Test Method

Colorfastness (cont’d) COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15 Multifiber 49


AATCC 8, 116


Required standard Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded)

Required standard



AATCC 150/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle) AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015



ASTM D1683

TRIM PERFORMANCE


<4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Bras: Strap joining/Cup Seam/Front: 15 lbs or 40% elongation Minimum: 15 lbs.

AATCC 158, 1 cycle



ASTM D2061

Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. #814 for requirements.

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303



Notes All colors


Notes


All on garment

All zipper brands

68 June 2008


SLEEPWEAR (#007) Page 1 of 3


Required standard

Test Method

Notes

FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only

ASTM D3775/D3887 AATCC 20/20A ASTM D276/629

+/- 5% Single Fiber:: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%


YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059

+/- 10%


Spot Test MTL C1007

Negative

One color only

If positive, proceed with

75 ppm


pH

JIS L1041 AATCC 81

FLAMMABILITY


White (bleached), Wool/wool Blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

16 CFR 1610

Class 1


Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance




AATCC 158, 1 cycle




Coteco


No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2



One color only

69 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sleepwear #007, Page 2 of 3 Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING TENSILE STRENGTH


TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424



PILLING


BURSTING STRENGTH


Required standard

Test Method

Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3


AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm


AATCC TS-001


AATCC 8, 116

AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15


Notes One color only Wovens: one color only




3.5 3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35




Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (Wet/Dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded).

Washable fabrics; all colors Washable fabrics; All colors All colors


70 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sleepwear # 007, Page 3 of 3 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING

Required standard






Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015



ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029

TRIM PERFORMANCE


<4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Pockets (decorative/functional): 5/10 Belt loops: 10 Lining: 15 Minimum: 15 lbs.

AATCC 158, 1 cycle


ASTM D2061


CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303



Notes


All on garment

All zipper brands

71 June 2008


TESTING ACTIVE/SWIMWEAR (#008) (Including Leotards, Sweatshirts/tops, sweatpants/shorts) Page 1 of 4


Required standard

Test Method

Notes

FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard)

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only

FABRIC COUNT FIBER CONTENT



ASTMD276/629

+/- 5% Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

ASTM D1059

+/- 10%


Negative

One color only

pH



All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (Max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance No visual change in appearance Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2

One color only (See “Performance Specifications - Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors

YARN SIZE


75 ppm



AATCC 158, 1 cycle



DIMENSIONAL STABILITY /APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESSING

Coteco



Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability. One color only Note: This test does not apply to swimwear fabrics

72 June 2008


Required test Performance (cont’d)

Active/Swim #008, Page 2 of 4 Required standard Notes

Test Method



TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424



PILLING


Woven: 3% Knit: 5% (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: < 4 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 30 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 40 Lining/pocketing: 20 (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 2 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 2.5 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 3.0 Lining: 1.8 Pocketing: 2 (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25 Lining: 15 Pocketing: 20 Minimum All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3

BURSTING STRENGTH

BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786

COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO WATER

AATCC 107



AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15


3.5 Minimum (psi) Fabric Weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 40 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 50 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 55 Lace: 35

One color only Wovens: One color only





Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

All colors (except white)

Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5

Washable fabrics All colors Washable fabrics All colors All colors


73 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Active/Swim #008, Page 3 of 4

Required test Colorfastness, con’t COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING


COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER

COLORFASTNESS TO SEAWATER

Required standard

Test Method AATCC 8, 116

Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Neon: 2.5 Minimum color change: All others: 4 Pigment dye/prints: 3.5 Self-staining: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 (Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5) Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4

AATCC 16 Option 3 Activewear: 20 hours Swimwear: 40 hours AATCC 162

AATCC 106

Notes All colors (except white) Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals

All colors (except lining/pocketing fabrics) All colors Swimwear only

All colors Swimwear only

**If making additional “claims” on the garment (such as “breathable”, “absorbent”, “wicking”, etc.), additional testing will be required. Consult with Director of Fabric and Testing and see “Additional Testing”. GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING

Required standard






Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x 10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015



ASTM D1683 BV S1027 BV S1029

<4 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25

AATCC 150, 1 cycle

Notes


Stress Points: 20 Pockets (decorative/functional):10/20 Pleats/belt loops: 10 Lining: 15


74 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Active/Swim #008, Page 4 of 4

Required test

Required standard

Test Method

Notes

Garment Testing (cont’d) TRIM PERFORMANCE


Minimum: 15 lbs.

All on garment

ZIPPER TEST

ASTM D2061


All zipper brands

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength)


75 June 2008


SWEATERS (#009) Page 1 of 3

FABRIC TESTING (Performed after final factory garment wash) Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC COUNT

Required standard

Test Method

Notes

ASTM D3775/D3887

+/- 5%

One color only

AATCC 20/20A


One color only

ASTM D276/629 ASTM D1059

+/- 10%


Negative

One color only

pH



All colors

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3

One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) All colors

FIBER CONTENT

YARN SIZE


DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING

75 ppm

For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)


Others -5/+3 Length x Width (Max. %) -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash) All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.

76 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sweaters #009, Page 2 of 3 Required test Performance (cont’d) TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING PILLING

BURSTING STRENGTH



Required standard

Test Method

Notes

AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 Specialty animal fibers: 2 hrs Other animal fibers: 4 hrs ASTM D3786

Maximum 3%

One color only

Minimum 3.5

One color only If failure, test 2 additional colors.

AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm AATCC TS-001



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) Light: 3/4 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/ sulfur 2/3 Sueded (brushed, peached, sanded) Minimum Light/neutral colors: 3.5 All others: 4

Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors All colors

AATCC TS-001 AATCC 15


AATCC 8, 116




3.5 Minimum (psi) 40

One color only


All colors

77 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Sweaters #009, Page 3 of 3 GARMENT TESTING Required test

Required standard

Test Method

GARMENT WEIGHT

Standard Measure

Report Actual - lbs per dozen

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING




TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING


Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others: -5/+3 -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015


TRIM PERFORMANCE


Minimum (lbs): 15

ZIPPER TEST

ASTM D2061


CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

(Button Attachment strength Snap attachment strength Hook & Eye/Bar attachment strength)


Notes

All seams, stress points, pockets (decorative/ functional) All on garment

All zipper brands

78 June 2008


LEATHER (#010) Page 1 of 3


Required standard

Test Method

MATERIAL IDENTIFICATION Leather Shell

Microscopic

Verify leather material (man-made; genuine; etc)

FIBER CONTENT Lining Fabric

AATCC 20/20A

Verify content of lining.

MATERIAL WEIGHT Leather Shell Lining Fabric LEATHER THICKNESS

Notes

One color only

One color only

ASTMD276/629 One color only ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

ASTM D1813

+/- 5%

One color only

AATCC 81

Leather, wool/wool blends, bleached white fabric: 4.5-7

All colors

PERFORMANCE pH

Others: 6-8 FLAMMABILITY Leather Lining Fabric

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LEATHER CLEANING

Professional Leather Cleaning, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Leather: -2/+2 x -2/+2

Lining fabric: AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Lining Fabric Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knit: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance.

One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) Leather: One color only Woven:: One color only Knits: All colors

APPEARANCE AFTER LEATHER CLEANING

Professional Leather Clean, 1 cycle

BREAKING STRENGTH OF LEATHER TENSILE STRENGTH (of lining fabric) TEAR STRENGTH OF LEATHER TEAR STRENGTH (of lining fabric) DURABILITY OF LEATHER FINISH (flexing method)

ASTM D2208

Minimum (lbs): 25

One color only

ASTM D5034

Minimum (lbs): 20


ASTM D4704

Minimum (lbs) : 2

One color only

ASTM D1424

Min. lbs 1.8 Rank 1 (no damage)


ASTM D6182


As above

One color only

79 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Leather #010, Page 2 of 3

Required test COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15


AATCC 8, 116


AATCC 16 Option 3; 20 hours


Required standard

Test Method

Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (wet/dry) 2/3 Lining: 2.5/3.5: med/dark colors 3 / 4: light colors

Lining fabric only All colors

Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4

All colors (Leather and trim, except lining fabrics).

Required standard

Test Method

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LEATHER CLEANING (INCLUDING DIFFERENTIAL SHRINKAGE) APPEARANCE AFTER LEATHER CLEANING


Length x Width (Max. %) -2/+2 x -2/+2


Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance


ASTM D1683

TRIM PERFORMANCE


Minimum (lbs) Lining to garment: 15 Other seams: 20 Stress points:20 Pockets (Decorative/Functional): 10/20 Lining: 15 Minimum (lbs): 15


ASTM D2061

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610 16 CFR 1611

Zipper Operability Chain Crosswise Strength Top Stop Holding Holding Strength of slider lock Bottom Stop Holding (if applicable) Note: See spec. # 814 for requirements. Class 1


Notes

All on garment

All zipper brands

For trim, if applicable (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details)

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303



Notes

80 June 2008


ADDITIONAL TESTING (#011) Required test PILE RETENTION

ADHESION TEST/FIBER SHEDDING PROPENSITY STRETCH AND RECOVERY / TENSION AND ELONGATION OF ELASTIC FABRICS

ASTM D4685 (use CS-10 Abradant) Option A Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g head weight Option B Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard 250g headweight BV S1036

Option A: Face : Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back: Min Class 4.0 @ 100 cycles

Fiber removal maximum -3 50 x 10 grams

Faux fur only

ASTM D2594 use “Growth” for pass/fail determination.

KNIT: or samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Growth: 5% Recovery: 85% (information only) For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Growth: 7% Recovery: 70% (information only)

One color only (must submit FABRIC for testing)

ASTM D4964

ASTM D3107

ASTM D4964 RAIN TEST

Required standard

Test Method

Page 1 of 1 Notes

AATCC 35 (2 ft, 2 min)

Corduroy, velvet, velour One color only

Option B: Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 50 cycles

Swimwear / Action Wear: Elongation: Warp Knit: Lengthwise 120% min. Widthwise 75% min. Weft Knit: Lengthwise 75% min. Widthwise 120% min. Recovery: 85% minimum WOVEN: For samples with elastic content > 10% (30 sec.) Recovery: 85% Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Recovery: 70% Growth: 7% Narrow Fabrics 85% recovery

Coated fabric: Maximum 1 gram of water penetration Uncoated fabric: >1 gram of water penetration

One color only (must submit FABRIC for testing)

One color on stretch direction only (must submit FABRIC for testing)

As required for narrow elastics (intimates, etc.) “Rainwear” only; One color Test before and after coating, since the water-resistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish. Only if claimed to be “water resistant” One color only

SPRAY TEST

AATCC 22

AIR PERMEABILITY

ASTM D737

Original: 90 ISO Washed (3X): 70 ISO Drycleaned (1X) (as per care instructions) Minimum: 10

COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE GAS FUMES FADING

AATCC 109, 1 cycle

Minimum: 4

Indigo and whites only

AATCC 23, 1 cycle

Minimum: 4

Indigo and whites only


If claiming “windproof”

81 June 2008


BREATHABILITY

ASTM E96

> 500 gr/sq.mt./24 hr

If claiming “moisture management”

ABSORBENCY

AATCC 79

Max 30 sec


WICKING

BV S 1038

Min 3 inches at 30 min.


UV TRANSMITTANCE

ASTM D6603

Lab to advise standards

If claiming “UV resistant”

DOWNPROOFNESS

IDFL 5530 (Tumbling Method) FTMS 191, Method 5530 (modified) AATCC 8

Minimum 4

Down products only

If dry crocking does not meet Class 3.5, or wet crocking class 2.0 wash 1X according to the care label and repeat test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions).

Denim, pigment, sulphur, suede, etc.

AFTER WASH CROCKING TEST


Lead Content

Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

82 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL BASIC CARE LABELS AT01 AT02 AT03 AT04 AT05 AT06 AT07 AT08 AT09 AT10 AT11 AT12 AT13 AT14 AT15 AT16 AT17 AT18 AT19 AT20 AT21 AT22 AT23 AT24

Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry cool iron if needed. Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, do not iron or dryclean. Machine wash cold, do not bleach, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, line dry or flat dry, warm iron if needed. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat , cool iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, reshape, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, warm iron if needed. Machine wash warm, do not bleach, line dry or dry flat, warm/cool iron if needed or dryclean. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, do not iron. Machine wash warm, only non-chorine bleach when needed, tumble dry medium remove promptly, warm iron if needed. Machine wash warm, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low remove promptly, cool iron if needed. Hand wash cold, do not bleach, line dry, warm iron if needed. Dryclean Professionally leather clean only Dryclean only Machine wash cold, only non-chlorine bleach when needed, tumble dry low, warm iron if needed. Dryclean, do not steam press.

Remark: “Wash with like colors” maybe used on SOLID COLOR garments if color staining on multifiber strip does not exceed class 2.5 in the colorfastness to washing test.


83 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED PRODUCT Ann Taylor will also engage in the retailing of branded and co-branded product. In order to ensure corporate and regulatory compliance, such products must be tested by an independent testing laboratory prior to delivery. Test protocols for branded and co-branded product can be found on pages 83 to 96 of this manual. Note: These are not the same as test protocols for Ann Taylor Corporate.


84 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED BOTTOMS (#001A) Page 1 of 2

(CAREER/CASUAL SKIRT/SHORT/PANT) FABRIC TESTING

Required test

AATCC 20/20A

FLAMMABILITY

ASTMD276/629 16 CFR 1610


Required standard

Test Method

FIBER CONTENT

AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry


AATCC 158, 1 cycle




Notes

Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3%

One color only

Class 1

One color only (see “Performance Specifications Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm



COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH

AATCC TS-001



COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH

AATCC TS-001 Minimum Color change: 4


FORMALDEHYDE


Negative

One color only

pH


75 ppm White (bleached), Wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

85 June 2008



Required standard

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Verify all care label claims

FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


AATCC 158, 1 cycle



Notes

For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Lead content

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

Heavy Metals

EN 71, Part III

ASTM F963

Nickel Test



All colors


Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickelfree”. (Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors)

For material containing PVC or PU ( including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content

Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02403328, and CGC-05440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

86 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED TOPS, DRESSES, JACKETS (#002A) (CAREER/CASUAL) FABRIC TESTING

Required test FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method AATCC 20/20A

Single fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% Class 1

ASTMD276/629 FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610




AATCC 158, 1 cycle




COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH FORMALDEHYDE

pH

AATCC 61/AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/Nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Notes One color only One color only (See “Performance Specifications -Flammability for details) Woven-One color only Knits—all colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)

Woven - -One color only Knits—all colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.





Negative

One color only



All colors

87 June 2008


Required standard


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Notes

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage Lead content 16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 ASTM E1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on (Mod.) the weight of the dried paint or coating film Heavy Metals EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 Nickel Test EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than EN12472 0.5. micrograms per square (report results with and centimeter per week without coating)

All colors



If material containing PVC or PU ( including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage.

Lead Content


Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified)


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

88 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED SUITS/COORDINATES (#003A) (CAREER/CASUAL) FABRIC TESTING

Required test FIBER CONTENT

Required standard


Page 1 of 2 Notes One color only

ASTMD276/629

Single Fiber:-no tolerance Blends: -+/- 3%

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 X -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle: -10/+3 X10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

One color only (See “Performance Specifications Flammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors



AATCC 158, 1 cycle





pH

AATCC 61 / AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40 C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001



Woven: -One color only Knits: All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.




Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors

Negative

One color only


All colors

Page 2 of 2 Section 10 Raw Material & Finished Product Performance & Testing Procedures

89 June 2008


Required standard


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance



CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


For coated or painted trims, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage Required standard Required test Test Method Lead content

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

Heavy Metals


Nickel Test


Notes


Notes All colors



For material containing PVC or PU ( including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content


Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified)


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

90 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED OUTERWEAR (#004A) FABRIC TESTING Required test FIBER CONTENT

Required standard


Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% Class 1


16 CFR 1610




AATCC 158, 1 cycle





pH

AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81



Page 1 of 2 Notes One color only One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) Woven: One color only Knits: All colors Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash)




Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Negative

Washable fabrics; all colors Washable fabrics; all colors One color only


All colors

91 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 2 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/ DRYCLEANING


Required standard



Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: -7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x -10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x -3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Length x Width (max. %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303



AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Notes

For coated or painted trim, add the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Required test

Required standard

Test Method

Lead content

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

Heavy Metals


Nickel Test



Notes All colors



For material containing PVC or PU ( including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content

Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

92 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED DENIM APPAREL (#005A) Page 1 of 3

(All tests are to be done after the final wash treatment) Note: For “before-wash” required tests, see “Textile Production Testing”, pages 20-21

FABRIC TESTING Required test FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method

Notes One color only

ASTMD276/629

Single Fiber: No tolerance Blends-: +/- 3%

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

(See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details)





AATCC 158, 1 cycle




Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Washable fabrics All washes, one color only. Dryclean fabrics All washes, one color only All washes, one color only

AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C AATCC TS 001

Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum 4

AATCC TS 001

Minimum 4

AATCC 8, 116

Minimum: Dry: 3; Wet 2 If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. Negative

COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING

FORMALDEHYDE

pH

AATCC 20/20A



All washes, all colors (as applicable)

Washable fabrics; All washes, all colors Washable fabrics; all washes, all colors All washes, all colors

For all “washes” - one color only.

75 ppm 4.5-7

After final wash treatments; all “colors/washes”

93 June 2008



Required standard

Test Method

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO HOME LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING

As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle AATCC 8, 116

APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/DRYCLEANING FIBER CONTENT

As per care instructions Laundering: 3 cycles Dryclean: 1cycle 16 CFR 303

CARE LABEL

16 CFR 423

Length x Width (max %) Washing: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Dryclean: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Dry: 3; Wet: 2 Remark: If dry crocking does not meet Class 3, or wet crocking class 2, wash garment 1X according to the care label of garment and repeat crocking test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions). Color change: 4 No visible staining Appearance satisfactory Compliance to regulation; Verification of label Compliance to regulation; Verification of label

Notes



Required test

Required standard

Test Method

Lead content

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

Heavy Metals


Nickel Test




Notes All colors



94 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 3 For material containing PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add the following test if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content


Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified)


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

95 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED INTIMATES (#006A) (Including Bras, Camisoles, Panties) Page 1 of 2

FABRIC TESTING Required test FIBER CONTENT

Required standard


Notes


One color only


16 CFR 1610

Class 1







AATCC 158, 1 cycle






AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49 C - warm



COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO NONCHLORINE BLEACH

AATCC TS-001



FORMALDEHYDE


Negative

One color only

pH

AATCC TS-001



75 ppm White (bleached), wool/wool blends: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8

All colors

96 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 2 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING

Required standard




Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -3/+3 x -3/+3 Knits: Cotton/blends: -5/+3 x -5/+3 Rayon/blends -5/+5 Pique/Rib/Jacquard/Pointelle: 7/+3 x -7/+3 Thermal/Waffle:-10/+3 x-10/+3 Poly/nylon/silk/others:-3/+3 x 3/+3 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Notes



Heavy Metals

Nickel Test

Test Method 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

Required standard

No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 ASTM F963 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 EN 1811 Transfer to skin less than 0.5. EN12472 micrograms per square (report results with and centimeter per week without coating)

Notes All colors



For material containing PVC or PU ( including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add

the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Lead Content Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CGC-05-440721) EPA 3051 (Modified)


PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

97 June 2008


BRANDED & CO-BRANDED SWEATERS (#009A) Page 1 of 2

FABRIC TESTING (Performed after final factory garment wash) Required test FIBER CONTENT

Required standard

Test Method


ASTM D276/629


FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1



Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3

One color only (See “Performance SpecificationsFlammability for details) All colors

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO DRYCLEANING APPEARANCE AFTER WASHING/DRYCLEANING



pH

AATCC 20/20A

For “dryclean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry AATCC 158, 1 cycle AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/ 1 cycle)

AATCC 61/ AATCC 132 1A - hand wash 2A - machine wash 40C - cold 49C - warm AATCC TS-001 AATCC TS-001 Spot Test MTL C1007 If positive, proceed with JIS L1041 AATCC 81


Others -5/+3 Length x Width (Max. %) -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance

Washable fabrics; Dryclean only (hand wash) All colors Dryclean fabrics Additional evaluation of sample(s) tested for dimensional stability.



Minimum Color change: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 Negative

Washable fabrics: All colors Washable fabrics: All colors One color only


All colors

98 June 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 2 GARMENT TESTING Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING/DRYCLEANING

Required standard




TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING


Length x Width (max. %) Rayon/blends: -5/+5 Ribs with elastic yarn: -8/+3 Others: -5/+3 -5/+2 x -5/+2 Color change: 4 Self-staining: 4.5 No visual change in appearance Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

SEAM STRETCHABILITY

AATCC TS 015


CARE INSTRUCTIONS

16 CFR 423


FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Notes

All seams, stress points, pockets (decorative/ functional)


Required standard


Test Method 16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (Mod.)

Heavy Metals


Nickel Test



Notes All colors



For material containing PVC or PU ( including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing), add

the following tests if not tested at trim stage

Required Test

Test Method

Required Standard

Lead Content


Lead Content

EPA 3051 (Modified)


Notes

PVC 30 ppm

All Colors

PU 100 ppm

All Colors

99 June 2008


Infant/Toddler/Children Infant/Toddler/Childre n Requirements and Testing Safety First ................................................. ................................................... .............................................. 2 Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children .................................................. .................................................... 3

Standards Standards for Infants/Toddle Infants/Toddlers/Children rs/Children (cont’d)............................................... ................................... 3 Flammability Flammability .......................... ........................................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ....................... ......... 3 Lead content............................ content.......................................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ..................... ....... 3 Nickel............................... Nickel............................................. ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ............................ ............................. ............................ ............................ ............................ .............. 3 Azo dyes .......................... ........................................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ .............. 4 Formaldehyde: ........................... ........................................ ........................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................. ............................ ........................... ............................ ................... ..... 4 Phthalates: (in PVC) .......................... ........................................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................. ............................. ............................ ............................ ....................... ......... 4 Stuffing materials............................. materials........................................... ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ .......................... .......................... ............................ ............................ ............................ .............. 4 Colorfastness (general) ........................... ......................................... ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................. ............................ ........................... ............................ ................... ..... 4 Colorfastness to Saliva........................... Saliva......................................... ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ..................... ....... 4 Sharp edges, sharp points.......................... points........................................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ................ .. 5 Small Parts ............................ .......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ....................... ......... 5 Stuffed Toy and Rattle Requirements.................... Requirements................................. ........................... ........................... ........................... ........................... .......................... ........................... ............................ ..................... ....... 6

Test Request Form ........................................................ ...................................................... .......................8 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Trim ........................... ......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ................ .. 8 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Fabric ........................... ......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ .............. 9 Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form -Garment ............................ .......................................... ............................ ............................ ..................... ....... 10

11 Trim Testing..............................................................................................................................................11 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ............................ ......................................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ....................... ......... 11 Trim Testing Protocols ............................ .......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ........................... .......................... ........................... ............................ ................. ... 12

Fabric Testing ............................................... ........................................................ ....................................20 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ............................ ......................................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ....................... ......... 20 Fabric Testing Protocol - Development.......................... Development........................................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ..................... ....... 21 Fabric Testing Protocol - Production......................... Production....................................... ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................. .......................... ........... 24

Garment Testing.......................................................................................................................................29 Responsibility of Garment Suppliers ............................ ......................................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ....................... ......... 29 Garment Testing Protocol.............. Protocol ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ .............. 30

Construction Construction and Manufacturing Manufacturing Requirements Requirements ............................................. ..................................... 34 Zippers ........................... ......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ .............. 34 Appliqués, Decorations, etc. .......................... ....................................... ........................... ........................... ........................... ........................... ........................... ............................. ............................. ......................... ........... 35 Snap Control ........................... ......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ................... ..... 35 Buttons (functional and non-functional)........................ non-functional)...................................... ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................. ............................. ............................ ..................... ....... 36 Hasps and Sliders................................ Sliders.............................................. ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................. ..................... ...... 36 Factory Requirements (Small Parts) ........................... ........................................ ........................... ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................. .......................... ........... 37 Loops and Hangers ............................ .......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ..................... ....... 38 Drawstring Requirements ........................... ......................................... ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ .............. 38 Neck Stretch........................... Stretch......................................... ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ............................. ..................... ...... 38 Sewing Needle Control............ Control .......................... ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................. ............................. .................. .... 39 Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control .......................... ........................................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................ ..................... ....... 40 Sewing Thread .......................... ........................................ ............................ ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................ ............................. ............................. ............................ ............................ ................ .. 40 Flame Retardant Finishes on Fabrics ........................... ......................................... ............................ ........................... ........................... ............................. ............................. ............................ ....................... ......... 40 Stone Washing ........................... ......................................... ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ............................ ........................... .......................... ........................... ............................ ................. ... 40 Appendix A……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………41

Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 1

April 2008


Safety First The safety of children is our #1 Priority! In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care must be exercised by the the garment manufacturers manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without creating a potential hazard.

The tests and requirements cited were developed by the following government offices and industry associations: Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Federal Trade Commission (FTC) American Society of Testing and Materials (ASTM) American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) German Institute for Standardization (DIN)

Note: Individual states may have additional requirements.


April 2008


Standards for Infants/Toddlers/Children (cont’d) Flammability All fabric must meet the normal flammability standards with the added requirement. Requirement: 16 CFR 1610, Class 1 Flame Retardant finishes may not be applied to any garment without written approval from NY Production and NY Director of Fabric and Testing. Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New York design and Production to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be). See details in Appendix A. Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be classified as “sleepwear ”.

Lead Content 16 CFR 1303 Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film. Required for all painted, coated, and printed surfaces, including decals

Nickel Metal accessories must be “Nickel-free” even if the item does not come in contact with the skin (nickel usually triggers the needle detectors, a mandatory process for these garment sizes). “Nickel free” requirement: Transfer to the skin measurement of <0.5 micrograms per square centimeter per week

Exception : Small metal items (i.e. snaps, small buttons, etc.) with a low amount of nickel may pass through the needle detector without an alarm. If the garment manufacturer confirms that an item does not trigger the alarm then such nickel containing items can be used provided that they do not come in prolonged contact with the skin.


April 2008


Azo dyes All fabrics, trims and accessories must be free of the AZO dyes (including Blue colourant #611-070-00-2) and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B). This also applies to leather and other components. (testing upon request only)

Formaldehyde JIS L-1041 Requirement: Less than 20 ppm (direct or indirect contact with skin)

Phthalates: (in PVC) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

Dibutyl phthalate (DBP) Butyl benzyl phthalate (BBP) Di-2-ethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) Di-n-ocyl phthalate (DNOP) Di-iso-decyl-phthalate (DIDP) Di-iso-nonyl phthalate (DINP)

Requirement: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the above substances.

Stuffing Materials ASTM F963 Requirement: Material must be disclosed. All filling material must be new and free of c ontaminants such as splinters, metal chips etc.

Colorfastness The supplier must take every possible step to assure that Ann Taylor’s colorfastness requirements are met. Such steps include, but are not limited to, the selection of the best dyestuffs available, extra rinsing, dye fixation, etc. Note: All cotton fabrics must be dyed with reactive or vat dyes. Indigo dyes can be used where applicable. Sulfur or direct dyes are not accepted, unless specifically requested by Ann Taylor for special effects.

Colorfastness to Saliva LMBG 82.10 Section 35 (German Industrial Norm) Requirement: Solution #1 only. Minimum class 4.5 per AATCC Gray Scale.


April 2008


Sharp Edges and Sharp Points ASTM F963 All parts that are hard or stiff, such as metal parts, buttons, appliqués, velcro-type fasteners, labels, etc. must not have any sharp edges and points. All corners must be rounded. No needles or parts of needles can be left in any garment. No pins allowed in packaging. Must use needle detector and needle control system in factory. (See Construction and Manufacturing Requirements, “Sewing Needle Control”)

Small Parts •

“Small parts” on toys or other articles (i.e. garments) pose choking, aspiration, and ingestion hazards to young children. Some examples include, but are not limited to, functional and non-functional buttons, snaps, and decorative items.

•

It is necessary to ensure that all buttons, snaps, and decorative items (i.e. small parts) are attached to the garments securely and appropriately so that they will withstand the reasonable use and abuse of the children and infants who wear them.

•

Articles must undergo use and abuse tests to simulate the “normal use and reasonable foreseeable damage and abuse” which articles may undergo under ordinary conditions. Removal of small parts “use and abuse” testing (age group up to 8 years) ASTM F963/16 CFR 1500.50-53 Required for any part that: • fits entirely within the prescribed “small parts cylinder” (see drawing) - thus a “substantial product hazard”. •

a child can grasp with the thumb and forefinger or the teeth,

Examples: appliqués, bows, poms, buckles, buttons, snaps, zipper pulls, etc. Note: Yarns and textile fabric are exempt from requirement; however, these items must be reviewed on an individual basis, as exempt items can also be considered “substantial product hazards”. See “Garment Testing Protocol” •

Any piece that detaches from the article due to these “use and abuse” testing procedures must then be evaluated to determine if it complies with the small parts standard (16 CFR 1501 ). If the detached article fits into the small parts cylinder, it can be considered a “substantial product hazard”.


April 2008


Stuffed Toy and Rattle Rattle Requirement: 16 CFR. Part 1510 - pertaining to the penetrability of a rattle into the mouth and throat. •

Small Parts, Sharp Points, and Sharp Edges 16 C.F.R. Part 1501 - Small parts standards 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.48 - Sharp point standards 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.49 - Sharp edges standard 16 C.F.R. Part 1500.50-53 – Use and abuse testing • • • •

No small parts, sharp points, or sharp edges before or after “use and abuse” testing. Lead Paint: 16 CFR 1303 Requirement: Less than 0.06% (600 ppm), based on the total weight of the dried paint or coating film. Additional Heavy Metals ASTM F963 Requirements: Must not exceed the following limits for soluble migrated element: Antimony Arsenic Barium Cadmium Chromium Lead Mercury Selenium

60 ppm 25 ppm 1000 ppm 75 ppm 60 ppm 90 ppm 60 ppm 500 ppm

Phthalates: (if toy contains PVC) Requirements: Less than 1000 ppm (0.1% by weight) of the following substances: 1. DINP (di-iso-nonyl phthalate) 2. DEHP (di (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate) 3. DNOP (di-n-octyl phthalate) 4. DIDP (di-iso-decyl phthalate) 5. BBP (butylbenzyl phthalate) 6. DBP (dibutyl phthalate)


April 2008


Azo Dyes All items must be free of the AZO dyes and pigments that are banned (see Appendix B).

Flammability 16 CFR Part 1500.3 and 1500.44 (as for “rigid or pliable solids”).

Pennsylvania Stuffed Toys Regulation: (Title 34, Chapter 47, Section 47.317); ASTM F963 Must not contain the following: Previously-used material Less than 1% oil or grease Dirt and/or other foreign matter >1% by weight Less than 0.002% lead Less than 0.0002% arsenic Less than 5% ammonia Less than 1% urea Stones or other hard materials having jagged or sharp edges Material with electrostatic charge with adherence characteristics Filler which surface burns at a rate <3 seconds per 12 square inches. • • • • • • • • • •

Note: Each toy must also be evaluated on an individual basis for additional tests that might be necessary. Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing when needed.

Polybags for Toys (ASTM F963-96a) Requirement: Actual thickness shall not be less than 0.00125 in. (0.03175 mm).


April 2008


Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Trim Service: □ Regular

□

Priority (2 working days on selective items)

Contact Information Division Department Number Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code Number Requestor Name: Telephone Fax: E-mail: AT Office/Agent Contact Trim Information Season Trim Supplier Garment Facility/Factory Supplier Trim Number P.O. Number Detailed Description Color/Color Combination Internally Dyed/Dyed to match Coating/Paint Size Material (i.e. melamine, polyester, metal composition, etc.) Nickel content (i.e. “nickel-free”) Sample Status

Trim Tests Requested

□

Development

□ Non-Metallic

□

□

Production

□

Metallic

□

□

Zippers

□

Patches, appliqués, twill tapes, etc.

□

Other

Rubber and soft plastic patches

□

Additional color or size

Down and Feather

□

Retest

Required Additional Information Retest of report # Property(ies) to be retested Comments/special instructions Billing Information Company Address

Contact Telephone Fax

Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge. Applicant’s Test Order Number:

______________________


April 2008


Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Fabric Service: □ Regular (3 days)

□


Contact Information Division Department Number Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code Number Requestor Name: Telephone Fax: E-mail: AT Office/Agent Contact Fabric Information Season Fabric Supplier RMID #/Fabric Quality Number P.O. Number Type of Fabric (woven/knit) Construction (i.e. twill, jersey, pique, etc) Fiber Content Yarn Dye/Piece Dye Fabric Finish (ie coated, washed, water repellent, etc) Resin-treated? Color(s) Anticipated Care Instructions: Sample Status

Fabric Tests Requested

□

Development

□

Development Package

□

Other

□

Production

□

Production Package

□

Retest

□

Additional Color

Required Additional Information Previous full test report # Retest of report # Property(ies) to be retested Comments/special instructions Billing Information Company Address


Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge. Applicant’s Test Order Number: ____________________


April 2008


Ann Taylor Infant/Toddler/Children Test Request Form - Garment Service: □ Regular (3 days)

□


Contact Information Division Department Number Vendor/Supplier Vendor Code Number Requestor Name: Telephone Fax: E-mail: AT Office/Agent Contact Garment Information Season Garment Facility (factory) Style number (of garment actually sent in for testing) Reference Style numbers (if applicable) P.O. Number Garment Description Fiber Content Color/Color Combination Garment Finish (i.e. garment wash, etc.) Care Instructions: Sample Status

Garment Tests Requested

□

Development

□

Garment Test Package (Infant/Toddler/Children)

□

Production

□

Retest

□

Other

Required Additional Information Previous full test report #’s (i.e. fabric/trim) Retest of report # (if applicable) Property(ies) to be retested Comments/special instructions Billing Information Company Address


Corporate Policy: All vendors supplying finished products to Ann Taylor for confirmed production orders are required to incur the cost of all production testing, including the cost of merchandise destroyed during the testing process. Development testing will be charged back to your department. Rush service is available upon request after 48 hours of lab receipt at 40% surcharge. Applicant’s Test Order Number: ____________________


April 2008


TRIM TESTING Responsibility of Garment Suppliers 1.

The garment supplier is responsible for all trims to be tested according to the Ann Taylor requirements and for the cost of such tests.

2.

Trim testing is required to be performed each season, at Production stage only. Development testing may still be performed upon request on an exception basis.

3.

The factory must send representative trims (prior to garment production) to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (see section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing ). All the required trim information must be given to the laboratory (See Ann Taylor Test • Request Form--Trim). Make sure to mark which Ann Taylor division this trim is for and a contact, as the lab • will send the test reports directly to the regional production office. Additional trims must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab). •

4. Although certain types of trims are too small to be tested for flammability at trim and/or garment stage, it is the supplier’s responsibility to make sure all applicable trims would comply with the normal flammability requirements. It is recommended that applicable trims be tested in a larger form before proceeding with production.


April 2008


PRODUCTION Trim Testing Protocols Non-metallic Trim (ITC Spec. #812) Examples: buttons, ball stoppers, etc. (excluding: metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather) Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)

Page 1 of 2 Required Test Flammability (fabric trims)

Test Method 16 CFR 1610

Class 1

Requirement

DURABILITY TO IMPACT DURING LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING

AATCC 61-3A / AATCC 86

No breaking, cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface

Notes One color only (see “Responsibility of Garment Supplier” – Trim Testing for details) Test any one color, three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small, circle, square, heart, etc.) If failures, may need to test additional sizes/shapes.

STEAM PRESS

Coteco

Staining min. 4-5 No visual change in appearance

Does not have to be performed if the colorfastness tests under “dyed to match” are performed. Test any one color, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small)

If dyed to match (instead of internal dyed) add the following tests (test all colors, one size only): COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING

AATCC 61, IIA


COLORFASTNESS TO DRYCLEANING

AATCC 132


COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING (if applicable for button having a flat surface)

AATCC 116

Dry: min. 4.5 Wet: min. 4

Test all colors, at least three representative sizes/shapes (i.e. large, medium, small) Test all colors, at least three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small) Test all colors, any one size


April 2008


Non-metallic Trim (excluding metal, rubber, soft plastic, fabric, leather) If coated or painted add the following tests Required Test LEAD CONTENT

HEAVY METALS

NICKEL TEST

Test Method

Requirement

16 CFR 1303 No more than 0.06% (600 ASTM 1613/E1645 ppm) lead content based on the (mod.) weight of the dried paint or coating film EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500 EN 1811; EN12472Transfer to skin less than 0.5. (report results with micrograms per square and without centimeter per week coating)

Notes All colors



If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing) Lead in PVC LEAD CONTENT

EPA 3051 (modified) (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721)

LEAD CONTENT

EPA 3051 (modified)

30 ppm

All Colors

100 ppm

All Colors

Lead in PU

If button, add the following tests CENTER STRENGTH a) Shank / 2 & 4 holes plastic & wooden buttons

S 4162 Section 4.0 (modified)

Up to 16 ligne: 16 lbf Up to 25 ligne: 20 lbf Larger than 25ligne: 30 lbf

Test all shapes/sizes. One color only.

b) Shell buttons 15 lbf c) Horn buttons 18 lbf If Snap, add the following tests SNAP ACTION

ASTM D4846 BV-S 1045


Test all sizes/shapes. One color only.


April 2008


Metal Trim (ITC Spec. #813) Minimum sample requirement: 1 Gross (144 pieces)

Page 1 of 1 Required test

Test Method

Requirement

CORROSION RESISTANCE

ASTM B117 (mod) 24 hours in 1% Salt Spray (Fog)

NICKEL TEST

EN 1811, EN 12472 Transfer to skin less Report results with than 0.5. micrograms and without coating per square centimeter per week EN 71, Part III Antimony: 60 Arsenic: 25 Barium: 1000 Cadmium: 75 Chromium: 60 Lead: 90 Mercury: 60 Selenium: 500

HEAVY METALS

Notes

No visual change in Test any one size appearance All colors and finishes No signs of staining, corrosion, oxidation or discoloration. Only if supplier indicated that the item is “nickel-free”.


If coated or painted, add the following tests LEAD CONTENT

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (mod.)

DURABILITY TO IMPACT DURING LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING

AATCC 150 5X Home Laundering (machine wash warm, tumble dry medium)

No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film No cracking, chipping or dulling of the surface

All colors

Test any one color, three representative sizes (i.e. large, medium, small)

AATCC158 (3X Commercial Dryclean

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing) Lead in PVC LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (Modified) 30 ppm All Colors (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721) Lead in PU LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All Colors

If Snap, add the following test SNAP ACTION

BV S-1045/ ASTM D4846


Test all sizes. One color only.


April 2008


Zippers (ITC Spec. #814) Use: A = jeans, B= bottoms, C= dresses/tops, D= outerwear (for pockets “C” can be used)

Minimum sample requirement: 120 (at least 6” in length)

Page 1 of 2

Required test

Requirement (lbf) Use Use Use Use

Test Method

A CROSSWISE CHAIN STRENGTH TOP STOP HOLDING

80

ASTM D2061 (14.1) ASTM D2061

B 60

C

D

50

75

20

16

16

20

16

12

12

20

Notes

(22.2)

BOTTOM STOP HOLDING (STRINGER SEPARATION) FIXED RETAINER PULL OFF SEPARABLE PIN PULL OFF HOLDING STRENGTH OF SLIDER LOCK

ASTM D2061

Non separating zipper only. Lower standards are acceptable if zipper bottom is secured by appropriate sewing in garment.

(22.5)

ASTM D2061

NA

NA

16

20


NA

NA

16

20


(30.2)

ASTM D2061

(30.1)

ASTM D2061

12

6

4

(82)

COLOR FASTNESS TO WASHING

AATCC 61 IIA


AATCC 132


ASTM D2054 AATCC 116

RESISTANCE TO STEAM PRESS

Coteco

OPERA0BILITY ZIPPER TORQUE

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change. Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change. Dry: min. 4.5 Wet: min. 4

7

Only if locking slider. Report any failure Examine all components after testing and report any damage (i.e. elements, etc.). Slider and stringer Test each color.

Slider and stringer Test each color.

Test each color. Tape only.

ASTM D2062

Staining min. 4-5 Color change: 4 No visual change in appearance. < 1.5 lb

Complete zipper Test each color.

Test 3 different zippers

16 CFR 1500

4 in-lb

Test each color


April 2008


Zippers (cont’d) Required test NICKEL TEST

Page 2 of 2 Test Method EN 1811, EN 12472 Report results with and without coating

Requirement Transfer to skin less than 0.5. micrograms per square centimeter per week.

Notes Nickel is possible in coatings or special colors

AATCC 106 (modify if necessary)

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change Color change: min. 4 Appearance: No visual change


If used for swimwear COLORFASTNESS AND APPEARANCE AFTER EXPOSURE TO SEA WATER. COLORFASTNESS AND APPEARANCE AFTER EXPOSURE TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER

AATCC 162 (Modified, no multifiber swatch used)


If painted or coated Add the following tests LEAD CONTENT

16 CFR 1303 ASTM E1613/E1645 (mod.)

HEAVY METALS

ASTM F963

No more than 0.06% (600 ppm) lead content based on the weight of the dried paint or coating film Maximums See “Accessories made of metal”

All colors

If metal, all with or without surface coating. If coated, test coating in each color.

If material contains PVC or PU (including PVC or neoprene rain suits and coats, and decals and attachments on clothing) Lead in PVC LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 30 ppm All colors (San Francisco Superior Court, 317256, CGC-02-403328, and CFC-05-440721) Lead in PU LEAD CONTENT EPA 3051 (modified) 100 ppm All colors

If made of metal HEAVY METALS

EN 71 Part III

See above

See above

CORROSION RESISTANCE

ASTM B117 G85 (mod) 24 hrs in 1% salt spray (fog)




April 2008


Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (ITC Spec. #815) Made of fibers, including Velcro, dyed elastic, leather patches, etc. Minimum sample requirement: 1 yard (if in fabric form of at least 40” in width) OR 4 yards (taping)

Page 1 of 2 Required test

Test Method

Requirement

Notes

FLAMMABILITY (fabric trims)

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

One color only (see “Responsibility of Garment Supplier” - Trim Testing for details) Test all colors

COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING

AATCC 61, IIA

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5


AATCC 132

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5

Test all colors

COLORFASTNESS TO WATER

AATCC 107

Test all colors


AATCC 8/116

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5 Dry: min. 4 Wet: min. 3

Test all colors Report which test procedure was used

If item is a tape, ribbon, elastic, etc. add the following tests DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO LAUNDERING

AATCC 135


AATCC 158

Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment Report actual shrinkage. Acceptance depends on compatibility with fabric in specific garment.

Test one color only Three launderings

Test one color only One dryclean only

If used on inside of garment add the following test: COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15

Color change: min. 3.5 Staining: min. 4

Example: neck tape, etc. Test all colors


April 2008


Patches, appliqués, twill tapes etc. (cont’d) (made of fibers, including velcro, dyed elastic, etc.) Page 2 of 2 If used in swimwear add the following tests: Required test Test method COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 106 SEA WATER

Requirement Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Self staining: min. 4.5

COLORFASTNESS TO AATCC 162 CHLORINATED (modified, no POOL WATER multi-fiber swatch used)

Color change: min. 4

Notes Test all colors

Test all colors


Down and Feather Testing (ITC Spec. #816) Minimum sample requirement: 300 grams of down and one garment or mock-up.

Required Test DOWNPROOFNESS

FEATHER/DOWN COMPOSITION

FILL POWER

Test Method IDFB, Method 5530 (tumbling method) IDFB Method 3 Fed Standard 148a

OXYGEN NUMBER

IDFB 10, IDFB 32 (tumble dry method) IDFB 21

TURBIDITY

IDFB 22

Requirement Minimum 4

Notes Fabric against actual filling One color only

No more than: 10% down fiber 10% feather fibers 2% land fowl feathers 2% damaged feathers 2% residue Minimum 550 cubic inches/oz

For labeling, “USA Standards— Down and Feather Products Labeling Guidelines”

General: Less than 10 Hypoallergenic/Super Hypoallergenic/Super Clean Claim: <5 Minimum General: 300 mm Hypoallergenic/Super Hypoallergenic/Super Clean Claim: 500 mm


April 2008


Rubber & Soft Plastic Patches (ITC Spec. #817) Minimum sample requirement: 40 pieces

Page 1 of 1 Required test COLORFASTNESS TO WASHING


AGEING UNDER HOT/HUMID CONDITIONS AGEING UNDER COLD CONDITIONS

PHTHALATES (IN PVC) CADMIUM CONTENT

Test number

Required Standard

AATCC 61 IIA

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping AATCC 132 Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 No brittleness, cracking or chipping. 48 hrs under50oC No discoloration, staining, (120oF) and 95% RH brittleness, cracking or chipping 48 hrs under 0oC No brittleness, cracking or (32oF) chipping

Solvent extraction with LC-MS or GCMS Analysis EN 1122

Notes All colors Add appearance to evaluation

Not for rubber (known to fail, use “do not dry clean” label) All colors Add appearance to evaluation Any one color

Any one color Note: test sample must be evaluated immediately, while still cold. <1000 ppm of listed PVC substances see “Standards” Test all colors

<0.01% by weight

PVC, pigment coated/painted plastic

Color change: min. 4 Staining: min. 4 Color change: min. 4

Test all colors

If used for swimwear add the following tests: COLORFASTNESS TO SEA WATER COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER

AATCC 106 AATCC 162

Test all colors



April 2008


Fabric Testing Responsibility of Suppliers 1. The fabric supplier is responsible for testing all fabrics according to the Ann Taylor requirements requirements and for the cost of such tests. 2. Fabric tests must be done at development development stage and on the the first production dye lot of each fabric, fabric, each season. See testing protocols protocols for development development and production production fabric. Ann Taylor will specify if any additional tests must be done depending on the fabric. 3. The tests must be done by an Ann Ann Taylor designated commercial commercial laboratory (see section VI-D in Apparel Manual for complete listing) . All required fabric information information must be given to the laboratory laboratory (see Ann Taylor Test Request Form - Fabric). 4. In addition, the fabric supplier supplier must test each dye lot internally to assure that all fabrics meet the requirements. These test reports do not have to be submitted to Ann Taylor but the supplier must keep them for review by Ann Taylor personnel if any problems arise.

5. “Yarn” testing for sweaters should be done in knitted fabric form. 6. All denim testing must be done after the final wash treatment. Testing is not required on non-wash (i.e. rigid) denim.


April 2008


DEVELOPMENT Fabric Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #001) (For all fabrics and fabrics used as trim) Sample required: 2.5 yards

Page 1 of 3 Required Test FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yd)

Test Method ASTM D3776

+/- 5%


FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

Class 1

All colors

FORMALDEHYDE

JIS L1041

<20 ppm

One color only


AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) Cold: 80F (27C) Warm: 105F (40C)

Length x Width (max. %)

One color only

Wovens: General: -3%x-3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x-4%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS) Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) wool/silk -4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS) Growth: +1% maximum

Washable fabrics; Fabrics where “dry clean only” is recommended

For “dry clean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry.


AATCC 158, 1 cycle

Requirement

Knits: General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x-4%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -6%x-5%(CVC), -5%x-4%(CVS) Fleece, Sherpa, french terry: -6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Rib/waffle/pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Jersey, interlock, pointelle: -6%x -5%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -7%x-7%(CVS) Wool (washable): -5%x-5% Silk (washable): -6%x-6% Growth: +3% maximum Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -2.0%x-2.0% Growth: No growth allowed

One color only Dry clean fabrics

Knits: -3.0% x -3.0% Growth: No growth allowed


AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/1cycle)

No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product performance/appearance, color change/staining. Satisfactory performance of the components and trims. List all observations.


April 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL Page 2 of 3 Required test TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING TENSILE STRENGTH

Test Method AATCC 179 Method 1, Option 2 ASTM D5034

Requirement Maximum Woven: 3% Knit: 5% Length x Width (min. lbs) General Fabrics: Fabric Weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 15 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 30 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 40



Pocketing: 20 lbs TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424

SEAM SLIPPAGE/ STRENGTH


PILLING

PILE RETENTION


ASTM D3512 Random Tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour Animal Fibers: BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 (4 hours) (Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours) ASTM D4685 (use CS-10 Abradant) Option A Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g head weight Option B Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard 250g headweight

ASTM D3107 Wovens ASTM D2594 Knits Use “Growth”

Length x Width (min. lbs) General Fabrics: Fabric Weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 1.5 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 3.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 4.0 Lining and pocketing fabrics: Fabric Weight <4.0 oz/sq yard: 1.5 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 2.5 Length x Width (min. lbs) Fabric Weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 10 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 25 Minimum Wovens & knits: All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3



One color only

Animal Fibers: 3.5

Option A: Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 30 0 cycles Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 1 00 cycles

Corduroy, velvet, velour One color only

Option B: Face – Min Class 3.0 @ 30 0 cycles Back – Min Class 4.0 @ 5 0 Cycles

In stretch direction only, for : Knit: For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Requirements for Recovery: 85% Requirements for Growth: 5% For samples with elastic content



April 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL for pass/fail determination

BURSTING STRENGTH

ASTM D3786

RAIN TEST


< 10% (1hr.) Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7% Woven: For samples with elastic content > 10% (30 sec.) Requirements for recovery: 85% Requirements for growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7% Minimum (psi) Fabric weight: <3.0 oz/sq yard: 30 >3.0 oz/sq yard: 45 Highly stretch fabric: 40 Lace/mesh: 20

After coating: Max. 1 gm of water penetration Before coating: > 1 gram of water penetration


Rainwear only. One color Test before and after coating, since the waterresistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish (i.e.

cire, etc.) Page 3 of 3


April 2008


PRODUCTION Fabric Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #002) (For all fabrics and fabrics used as trim) Page 1 of 5

Sample requirement: 4 yards

Required test PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS FABRIC WEIGHT (oz/sq yard) FABRIC COUNT

Test Method

ASTM D3776

+/- 5%

One color only

ASTM D3775/D3887

+/- 5%

One color only

FIBER CONTENT

AATCC 20/20A

One color only

YARN SIZE

ASTM D1059

Single Fiber : No tolerance Blends: +/- 3% +/- 10%


JIS L1041

<20 ppm

One color only

pH

AATCC 81

All colors (after final wash treatment)

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610

White (bleached), wool/wool blends/leather/indigo: 4.5-7 Others: 6-8 Class 1


AATCC 135, 3 cycles (as per care instructions) Cold: 80F (27C) Warm: 105F (40C) For “dry clean only” fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry

Requirement

Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: General: -3%x3%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x4%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Corduroy, velvet, terry, flannel: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x-4%(CVS) Dobby, jacquard, basket, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Wool/silk -4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x-3%(CVS) Growth: +1% maximum

Notes


All colors Woven - one color only Knits - all colors Washable fabrics; Fabrics where “dry clean only” is recommended

Knits: General: -5%x-5%(CVC), -4%x4%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -6%x5%(CVC), -5%x-4%(CVS) Fleece, sherpa, french terry: -6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x5%(CVS) Rib,waffle, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x-5%(CVS) Jersey, interlock, pointelle: 6%x-5%(CVC), -5%x-5%(CVS) Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), -


April 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL 7%x-7%(CVS) Wool (washable): -5%x-5% Silk (washable): -6%x-6% Growth: +3% maximum Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: -2.0%x-2.0% Growth: No growth allowed Knits: -3.0%x-3.0% Growth: No growth allowed


AATCC 158, 1 cycle


AATCC 135/158, as per care (3 cycles/1cycle)

No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product performance/appearance, color change/staining satisfactory performance of the components and trims. List all observations.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY AFTER STEAM PRESS

Coteco

APPEARANCE AFTER STEAM PRESS

Coteco

Length x Width (max %) Woven: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 No visual change in appearance Self-staining: 4.5 Color change: 4

TWISTING AFTER LAUNDERING TENSILE STRENGTH


TEAR STRENGTH

ASTM D1424

Woven - one color only Knits - all colors Dryclean fabrics


Woven: 3% Knit: 5%

One color only

Length x Width (min. lbs) General fabrics: Fabric weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 15 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 25 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 30 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 40


Pocketing: 20 lbs Length x Width (min.lbs) General fabrics: Fabric weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 1.5 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 3.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 4.0 Lining and pocketing fabrics: Fabric weight <4.0 oz/sq yard: 1.5 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 2.0 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 2.5


Page 2 of 5


April 2008


Required test SEAM SLIPPAGE/ STRENGTH

Test Method ASTM D1683 (6 mm slippage and strength) Prototype seam

PILLING

PILE RETENTION

ADHESION TEST/FIBER SHEDDING PROPENSITY STRETCH AND RECOVERY

ASTM D3512 Random tumble Knits: 30 minutes Wovens: 1 hour Animal Fibers: BS EN ISO 12945 Part 1 (4 hours) (Specialty animal fibers: 2 hours) ASTM D4685 (use CS-10 abradant) Option A Fabric >7.0 oz/sq yard: 500g head weight Option B Fabric <7.0 oz/sq yard 250g headweight

BV S-1036 ASTM D3107 - wovens ASTM D2594 -knits

Requirement Length x Width (min. lbs) Fabric weight: <2.4 oz/sq yard: 10 2.5-4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 > 6.0 oz/sq yard: 25 Minimum Wovens & Knits: All others: 3.5 Brushed/peached: 3 Polyester/nylon: 3

Notes Wovens: one color only

One color only If failure, test 2 additional colors.

Animal Fibers: 3.5 Option A: Face: Min class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back – Min class 4.0 @ 100 cycles Option B: Face: Min class 3.0 @ 300 cycles Back - Min class 4.0 @ 5 0 cycles Fiber removal maximum 50 x 10-3 grams In stretch direction only, for : Knit: For samples with elastic content > 10% (60 sec.) Requirements for recovery: 85% Requirements for growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7% Woven: For samples with elastic content > 10% (30 sec.) Requirements for recovery: 85% Requirements for growth: 5% For samples with elastic content < 10% (1hr.) Requirements for recovery: 70% Requirements for growth: 7%

Corduroy, Velvet, Velour One color only

Faux fur only Stretch only One color only

Page 3 of 5

Page 4 of 5 Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 26

April 2008


Required test BURSTING STRENGTH

Test Method ASTM D3786

RAIN TEST


After coating: Maximum: 1 gm of water penetration Before coating: >1 gram of water penetration

SPRAY TEST

AATCC 22

Original: 90 (ISO 4) Washed (3x) or dry clean (1x): 70 (ISO 2) (as per care instructions)

AATCC 61/AATCC 132 Hand washables: 1A Machine washables: 2A Warm:49C Cold: 40C AATCC TS 001

Minimum: Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum 4

All colors

AATCC TS 001

Minimum 4

All colors

AATCC 107

Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum Color change: 4 Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4.5 Minimum (Wet/dry) Light: 3.5 Medium/dark: 2.5/3.5 Pigment/indigo 2/3 Sulfur/sueded

All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment

COLORFASTNESS COLORFASTNESS TO LAUNDERING / DRYCLEANING COLORFASTNESS TO NON-CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINE BLEACH COLORFASTNESS TO WATER

COLORFASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

AATCC 15


AATCC 8, 116

Requirements Minimum (psi) Fabric weight: <3.0 oz/sq yard: 30 >3.0 oz/sq yard: 45 Highly stretch fabric: 40 Lace/mesh: 20

Notes Knits: One color only

“Rainwear” only; One color. Test before and after coating, since the water-resistance must be a direct result of the coating, and not any prior finish (i.e. cire, etc.) Only if claimed to be “water resistant” One color only

All colors Indigo: after the final wash treatment

All colors Indigo: after the final wash treatment All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment Lab discretion on light colors and certain neutrals If dry crocking does not meet Class 3.5, or wet crocking Class 2.0, wash 1X according to the care label and repeat test. If the crocking improves to a satisfactory rating, the fabric can be accepted, provided that the care instruction is modified to include “wash before wearing” (before all other instructions)


April 2008


Required test COLORFASTNESS TO SALIVA

Test Method Section 35 LMBG 82.10

Requirement Minimum AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5


AATCC 16; Option 3 Silk:10 hours Others:20 hours Swimwear: 40 hours AATCC 109 (1 cycle)

Minimum Light colors: 3.5 All others: 4 Neon swim: 2.5 @ 40 hours Minimum 4

AATCC 23 (1 cycle)

Minimum 4

AATCC 162

Minimum color change: All others: 4 Pigment dye/prints: 3.5 Self-staining: 4 Minimum Color change: 4 (Pigment dyes/prints: 3.5) Color staining: 3.5 Self-staining: 4

COLORFASTNESS TO OZONE COLORFASTNESS TO BURNT GAS FUMES COLORFASTNESS TO CHLORINATED POOL WATER COLORFASTNESS TO SEAWATER

AATCC 106

Notes All colors (except white) Indigo: after the final wash treatment All colors Indigo: after the final wash treatment “Indigo” and “whites” only After final wash treatment “Indigo” and “whites” only After final wash treatment All colors Swimwear only

All colors Swimwear only

Note: Garment-dyed: all tests should be performed on the dyed garments after final garment wash. Severe “garment-wash” programs: all tests should be performed after the final garment wash. Page 5 of 5


April 2008


GARMENT TESTING Responsibility of Garment Suppliers 1. The garment supplier is responsible for all garments to be tested according to the Ann Taylor requirements and for the cost of such tests. 2. The factory must send a representative garment (at least 5 samples) from the beginning of their bulk production to an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory. All the required garment information must be given to the laboratory (see Ann Taylor • Test Request Form--Garment) Additional garments must be sent to the laboratory if needed (consult with lab). • 3. All tests for sweaters (including fabric) should be done after the final factory garment wash. 4. Garment dye, stone/enzyme washing: • The garment supplier is responsible to perform all fabric tests in addition to the garment tests (after the garments are completely finished). This does not apply to regular garment wash. It is the garment manufacturer's responsibility to test all fabrics and trim for bleeding and • other problems during this process before starting garment production. If necessary the garment supplier must modify his washing procedure to avoid staining or • other problems. •

Garment Testing 1. The purpose of garment testing is to evaluate all the different components of a garment together while being cleaned 3 times (1 time if dry cleaned) according to the care label. We are looking for appearance, bleeding, puckering, shrinkage, seam strength, or anything that would make the garment look or feel undesirable. Pay special attention to trims, accessories and garment prints. 2. The garment construction is also reviewed at this time to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children safety requirements (such as drawstrings, sharp edges, sharp points, zipper guards, etc.). 3. The garment test must be performed by an Ann Taylor designated commercial laboratory (See section VI-D of Apparel Manual for complete listing ). 4. Garments must be tested once each season in the production stage. Testing at development stage may also be requested on an exception basis. The testing must be done after the garment is completely finished, including “Garment wash”, “Enzyme wash”, “Stone wash”, etc. if applicable. The cost of the testing is the responsibility of the garment supplier. This procedure does not relieve the garment supplier of his responsibility to assure the performance of the garments by total internal quality control throughout the production cycle. • •

5. Each garment style must be tested.


April 2008


•

•

It is not necessary to test every color combination, but the most critical color combination must be selected for testing (i.e. combination of bright/deep colors with white or cream). Pay special attention to contrasting trim and/or accessories. Additional colorway testing may be required at Ann Taylor’s request.

6. If the same garment style is made by more than one supplier, it must be tested individually from each supplier. 7. Hats and gloves are exempt from care labeling and do not have to be tested unless specifically requested. However if a care label is requested by NY then the item must be tested just like any other garment.

Garment Testing Protocol (ITC Spec. #003) 1. The laboratory will clean the garment three times (3x) according to the care label (1X for drycleaning). All instructions should be followed. i.e. If the care label states “low heat iron, if necessary”, ironing at low heat setting should be performed, even if the garment does not appear to need ironing. 2. Garment construction review and testing to ensure compliance with all Infant/Toddler/Children safety requirements. Required test DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO WASHING

Test Method AATCC 135, 3 cycles Garment Form (as per care instructions) Cold: 80F (27C) Warm: 105F (40C) For dry clean only fabrics: Hand wash, line dry or flat dry

Required standard Length x Width (max. %) Wovens: General: -3%x-3%(CVC), 3%x-3%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -4%x4%(CVC), -3%x-3%(CVS) Corduroy, velvet, terry,flannel: -5%x-5%(CVC),-4%x4%(CVS) Dobby, Jacquard, Basket, Pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x5%(CVS) Wool/Silk -4%x-4%(CVC),-3%x3%(CVS) Growth: +1% maximum Knits: General: -5%x-5%(CVC), 4%x-4%(CVS) Stretch w/spandex: -6%x5%(CVC), -5%x-4%(CVS) Fleece, sherpa, french terry: -6%x-6%(CVC), -5%x5%(CVS) Rib, waffle, pique: -6%x-6%(CVC),-5%x5%(CVS) Jersey, interlock, pointelle: 6%x-5%(CVC),

Notes Washable garments; Fabrics where “dry clean only” is recommended


April 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL -5%x-5%(CVS) Thermal: -8%x-8%(CVC), 7%x-7%(CVS) Wool (washable): -5%x-5% Silk (washable): -6%x-6% Growth: +3% maximum


AATCC 158, 1 cycle Garment Form

TORQUE/SPIRALITY

AATCC 179; Method 1, Option 2

APPEARANCE AFTER LAUNDERING/ DRYCLEANING

AATCC 150/158. as per care (3 cycles/1 cycle)

FLAMMABILITY

16 CFR 1610/1611

COLORFASTNESS TO SALIVA SEAM STRENGTH/SLIPPAGE

Section 35 LMBG 82.10

SEAM STRETCHABILITY DOWNPROOFNESS

Length x width (max. %) Wovens: -2/+2 x -2/+2 Knits: -3/+2 x -3/+2 Knits:5% Wovens:3% No obvious defects/observations affecting the end product performance/appearance, color change/staining satisfactory performance of the components and trims. List all observations. Class 1

Dry clean garments

For trim, if applicable

Minimum AATCC Grey Scale: 4.5 Length x width (min. lbs) Fabric weight: <4.0 oz/sq yard: 15 4.1-6.0 oz/sq yard: 20 >6.1 oz/sq yard: 25

For trim, if applicable

AATCC TS 015

7.0 lbs or 50% elongation Minimum 4

CARE INSTRUCTIONS

IDFB 5530 (tumbling method) 16 CFR 423

Knits only All seams If down product

FIBER CONTENT

16 CFR 303


ABUSE TEST * (SEE BELOW)

16 CFR 1500

Torque: Min 4 inch-pounds Tension: Min 16 lbs, 10 sec Flexure: Min 16 lbs

SHARP POINTS/SHARP EDGES

16 CFR 1500

Sharp points/edges shall not be accessible before and after use and abuse tests

SMALL PARTS

16 CFR 1500 16 CFR 1501

Small parts shall not be present after use and abuse tests

ASTM D1683

Wovens only All seams


Mechanical Hazards

DRAWSTRING/CORDS LOOPS/HANGERS

Includes all buttons, snaps, zipper pulls, and any applicable decorative trim

See “Construction and Manufacturing Requirements”


April 2008

ANN TAYLOR PROCEDURES MANUAL ZIPPER GUARDS

See “Construction and Manufacturing Requirements”


April 2008


*

All Small Parts (zippers, buttons, snaps, bows, etc.) must be tested for removal by the laboratory. Use and Abuse Testing •

Small Parts testing should be done on the sample in both its original and after-wash (3x) or dryclean (1x) states.

•

Small parts testing performed on garment in original state should be done on a separate garment (i.e. one garment for testing small parts in original state, and another garment for testing Care Label wash test and after-wash small parts). Results must be reported accordingly.

•

All small parts on each garment submitted must be evaluated. For example, if a garment is submitted that contains 6 snaps, all 6 snaps must be tested.

•

If “small parts” detach during the washing process itself, there is no need to then perform the test after 3X washing, as it would already be considered a major failure at this stage.

•

Any failure at laboratory stage must be reported (by the regional office) to the NY Director of Fabric and Testing and the NY Production department. Any failure requires 5 additional garments to be sent from the vendor for retesting. If the additional 5 garments are necessary, 4 garments must be tested for “small parts” in the original state, while only 1 garment must be washed 3X and tested for “small parts” after wash.


April 2008


Construction and Manufacturing Requirements Note: Any deviation from these requirements must be approved by the New York Production Head and by the NY Director of Fabric and Testing. In addition to the construction and manufacturing requirements listed, reasonable judgment and care must be exercised by the garment manufacturers to avoid any latent hazard. Ann Taylor must be notified if, in the opinion of the manufacturer, the design of the garment cannot be executed without creating a potential hazard.

Zippers •

Only zippers (including all parts) from suppliers approved b y Ann Taylor can be used -currently only YKK.

•

Zipper protection is required on all garments. This requirement is specifically for any "functional" zipper (serving as a closure), with the exception of pocket zippers. Following are examples of acceptable forms of zipper protection: 1. Traditional zipper guard Minimum of 3/4 inch facing • 2. Double placket/placket flange Used for reversible garments • 3. Neck Zipper Guard Tab Used for piece at top neck • 4. Molded Top Stop - Coil Zipper (coil zipper with an enclosed back)

Note: Invisible zippers exempt from above requirements.


April 2008


Appliqués, Decorations, etc. Appliqués and other similar decorations must be stitched or bar-tacked with reinforcement for added security.

Snap Control

•

Snap fasteners (functional and non-functional): Only snap fasteners from suppliers approved by Ann Taylor can be used --currently only YKK, Scovill (Acotex), and Prym. The guidelines for snap attachment that are issued by YKK/Scovill/Prym must be followed. Snap fasteners must not be applied over seams, fabric joints or uneven fabric thickness. The best construction is two plies of fabric and one ply of interlining. If interlining is used, it must be sewn or fused onto the garment before snap application. A sample of each garment style must be sent to snap manufacturer for evaluation and recommendation of product and machine setting (pinch setting, etc). Snap fasteners with uncovered prongs (no socket) are not allowed. Prongs must be long enough to properly attach and secure the snap to the seam. Snaps with the leg of prong exposed are unacceptable. Ball and socket of snap must be accurately aligned. Grippers must be firmly attached, with no clearance between fabric and gripper. The bottom of the post must be flat The cap and post must be curled properly. The two staples must be completely curled. The cap or button must not turn around easily. Reused snaps are unacceptable.

•

Snap attachment machines

•

•

• •

•

• •

• • • • • •

•

•

It is highly recommended for the factories to use YKK/Scovill/Prym machines, as these are specially designed to maintain all settings properly. It is permissible however to use a machine other than the one recommended provided that: 1) The dies are made by YKK/Scovill/Prym to specifically fit the machine 2) YKK/Scovill/Prym technicians evaluate the setting of the snaps 3) The factory checks the adjustment of the machine twice daily 4) No poorly set snaps are found in random inspections by our QA 5) The machine must be pneumatic or electric press. No manually operated hand/foot press or electric flywheel type presses are allowed.


April 2008






•

•

•

•

•

The vendor must check the snap machine at least 2 times each day during production to ensure the snaps are secure and consistent. The snap machine must be tested 2 times each day using the tension testing instrument to officially measure attachment strength. All snaps on actual garments must be tested.

Vendor must keep a record of daily inspections, which must be available to Ann Taylor QA upon request. Vendor must have on hand a digital caliber to measure the total pinch setting on a regular basis. If beyond +/-0.003 inches (of recommendation), snap supplier technicians should be consulted. Data sheet must be kept by factory indicating evaluation of pinch setting anytime there is a break in the production process (i.e. before work, after lunch, before overtime starts, etc.). Vendor is responsible for 100% inspection of all snaps. Every garment must be unsnapped and snapped at least 3 times to insure proper attachment. Vendor must perform “Removal of small parts” test on actual garments on a random basis (See Factory Requirements—Small Parts)

Buttons (functional and non-functional) Buttons smaller than 15 ligne should be of two-hole configuration. Buttons larger than 15 ligne should be of four-hole configuration. Buttons that crack, chip, or break cannot be used. Only lock stitch button attachment machines can be used. Buttons should be attached with a minimum of 15 needle passes. A polyester thread should be used.

Hasps and Sliders Wire diameter must be a minimum of 12 gauge (0.1046 inches) All seams must be welded, no sharp points or edges. Exception: Hasps can be constructed with a cover plate over the wire joint, provided that the construction prevents exposure of the wire ends. This must be tested by repeated twisting and pulling with a minimum force of 16 lbs.


April 2008


Factory Requirements (Small Parts) •

Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have access to at least one precise small parts cylinder.

•

Each manufacturer of Infant/Toddler/Children garments must have a tension testing instrument (“pull tester”) at the factory for random testing.

•

Tension test is to be done on the actual garment on a random basis by the factory before shipping and by the Ann Taylor QA person during the regular visits and inspections. (See Garment Testing-Small Parts).

•

If the garment is after-treated (stone, enzyme wash, etc.) the garments must be tested on a random basis after they are completely finished.

•

If the garments are not after-treated (regular garment wash or no wash) then occasionally some garments should be washed (3X) according to the care label and tested after the washes.

•

If a commercial laboratory failure is observed (See Garment Testing), then the factory must: ⇒ Provide an explanation for the poorly set snap, button, etc. ⇒ Indicate units in quarantine because of problem. ⇒ Indicate measures taken to resolve the problem ⇒ Send an additional 5 garments to the laboratory for testing. If there are any failures in these next 5 garments, then Ann Taylor requires: An additional 5 garments sent to the laboratory for testing (that must pass) AND Written documentation that 100% inspection has been performed by the factory . Such documentation to be kept by Corporate QC as part of the final inspection report. Note: Any failures are to be reported to the NY Director of Fabric and Testing and Production.


April 2008


Loops and Hangers Loops and hangers that could catch on something and tighten the neck opening, causing the child to suffocate, must not be used in the collar and neck area.

Drawstring Requirements 1. No drawstrings will be allowed on hoods or around the neck area of any garments. 2. Drawstrings in any other area, including waist and bottoms, must not be exposed for more than 3 inches from where the strings extend out of the garment when it is expanded to the fullest. In addition such draw cords must be securely fastened in the middle by bar tacking so that they cannot be removed entirely. 3. No toggles, stoppers or knots can be used at the ends of drawstrings. If cords are made of 100% Polyester or Nylon, the ends should be heat-sealed. (Sharp points must not be created by this method!). The ends of the drawstrings may be dipped in liquid plastic o r tacked in to prevent fraying. Plastic tips (such as on shoelaces) may be used provided that they are continuously checked for tight adherence. If any loose tips are found the whole shipment must be rejected. Note: When plastic tipping is used at the ends of drawstrings, the tips must withstand a pulloff force of at least 21 lbs.

Neck Stretch Up to 12-18 months: 21” 18-24 months to 5T: 22”


April 2008


Sewing Needle Control Needle detectors must be used before packing the garments. “Needle Detector Control” form must be filled out by the factory and stored by Corporate QC for a minimum of 3 years.

A conveyer-type machine or device is preferable. The needle detectors must be properly calibrated and frequently checked. (see Appendix C ) In addition, proper controls over needles and broken needle parts must be maintained in the sewing operation to prevent such parts from remaining accidentally in the garment.

In-line needle control at factory Note: Factory is responsible for implementing, monitoring, and maintaining the following needle-control program.

• • •

•

•

•

•

Machine: No spare needles at any sewing machines All stock and spare needles must be kept by an appointed production person. When there is a needle breakage, production cannot be resumed until all remaining needle parts are found. Before receiving a replacement needle, sewing machine operator must submit all pieces of needle. Appointed production person is the only one authorized to replace needles. Machine operators cannot replace needles on their own. If all parts of needle cannot be found, then the garment (s) being sewn must be completely inspected (i.e. hand-held needle detection device). If lost parts still cannot be found, then garment (s) must be destroyed. A “Needle Log” must be kept by the factory to record all broken needles. This log should list date, time, machine type, operation, product type, and customer’s name. All broken parts of the needle must be attached to the “Needle Log”. Supervisors must sign and indicate what course of action was taken if the log shows that some part of the needle was not found. All “Needle Logs” must be available for review by Ann Taylor QA during their regularly scheduled factory visits and by Ann Taylor offices and/or agents upon request.


April 2008


Hand: Needles must be “checked-out” by the operator at the beginning of each shift • An operator cannot keep additional needles at his/her location unless noted on the • “check-out” sheet. All needles must be “checked-in” at the end of each work shift. • If an operator has not turned in every needle he/she checked-out, then the operator’s • entire production must be inspected. If the missing needle is still not found, then the operator’s entire day’s production must be destroyed.

Metal Pins, Wires, and Staples Control No metal pins, wires, or staples may be u sed in any part of the production process for bundling, tacking, or securing components.

Sewing Thread Monofilament thread must not be used on any garment. Any other kind of continuous filament thread is also undesirable.

Flame Retardant Finishes Flame retardant finishes can only be applied a pplied if specifically permitted in writing by Ann Taylor on a case by case basis. Flammability testing testing must be adjusted accordingly if flame retardants are used.

Stone Washing If actual stones are used: All pockets on garments that will be stonewashed must be stitched closed so that no stones can get into the pockets and accidentally remain there. In order to facilitate the removal of the seam after stone washing: a.) Use the smallest number of stitches/inch that is technically possible ( no more than 5-6) b.) Use the loosest thread tension possible c.) Use a cotton thread that is strong enough to withstand stone washing but can be broken by the consumer. The thread should be a different shade from the fabric to be easily seen but not a different color that would detract from the look of the garment. A hang tag should be used on all such garments to advise the consumer that the pockets are stitched shut for protection during stone washing and for the consumer to remove the threads and open the pockets. Note: If the pocket stitching is removed prior to shipping, 100% inspection must be performed by the factory factory to make sure no stones remain in the pockets.

Plastic Bag Warning Plastic bags with width and length both larger than 5 inches and are sold with the product shall have the following statement or its equivalent present on the bag: "WARNING: Plastic Plastic bags can be dangerous. To avoid danger of suffocation, keep this bag away from babies and children." The letter height shall be a minimum of 1/8 inch. Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 40

April 2008


APPENDIX A Children’s Sleepwear Children’s Sleepwear classification Guidelines Ann Taylor does not intend to produce any garments for sleepwear; however, it is the responsibility of New York design and produc tion to assure that none of the garments could be “classified as sleepwear” (even though they are not intended to be). Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for spec ial requirements/testing) if any garment could be “classified as sleepwear ”. ”.

Sleepwear: Any product or wearing apparel intended to be worn primarily for sleeping or activities related to sleeping. Such “activities” include those that a child is involved in while getting ready for bed or while wearing sleepwear garments before going to bed or after getting up in the morning. The classification of sleepwear is very subjective . The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) determinations may be made on the following criteria: The subjective evaluation of a garments’ suitability as sleepwear The manner in which the garment is marketed, advertised, and displayed The likelihood that a garment will be purchased and used as sleepwear

• • •

Note: Hang tags or labels that state that that a garment is not intended to be used used for sleepwear are not sufficient and cannot be used to avoid special testing requirements. Can this garment be classified as sleepwear? sleepwe ar? 1.

Compare to sleepwear garment silhouettes (see “Sleepwear Silhouettes”) One-piece footed garments One piece non-footed garments Two piece footed garments Two piece non-footed garments Gown with drawstring bottom Gown with open bottom Robes (unless clearly intended for pool/beach use)

• • • • • • •

Note: if a garment does not match match a silhouette, it is not automatically considered “playwear” (as opposed to “sleepwear”).

2. Is the garment loose fitting, non-restrictive, and made from comfortable fabric (common characteristics of sleepwear garments)? Section 10 Part 2 – Infant, Toddler and Children 41

April 2008


3. Is it constructed of typical sleepwear fabric ( see “Traditional Sleepwear Fabric”)? 4. Do the colors or designs indicate sleepwear? 5. Does the marketing imply sleepwear? 6. Is there excessive ornamentation or trim? •

the greater the amount of ornamentation or trim, the greater the likelihood that a garment will not be considered sleepwear.

Even if a particular garment matches a silhouette, is suitable for use as sleepwear, and is made from traditional sleepwear fabric, other factors will influence the CPSC decision—such as: Design modifications: i.e. snap-shoulder closures are viewed as playwear, not sleepwear features. All criteria are subjectively evaluated by b y the CPSC. *Consult NY Director of Fabric and Testing (for special requirements/testing) if any garment could be classified as sleepwear

Note: Customs tariff/quota classification of these garments may not correspond with those of the CPSC.


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Sleepwear Exceptions (Note: All of below “Sleepwear Exceptions” must still meet the regular flammability standards, 16 CFR 1610, Class 1) 1. Infants’ 0-9 months (effective January 1, 1997) Exempt because studies have shown that infants in this age range lack mobility, which reduces the risk of injury from clothing burns significantly. •

• • • •

•

•

May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability standards and testing. Covers one-piece and two-piece garments Covers footed and non-footed garments No restriction on fabric construction or content Must not exceed maximum length measurements: one-piece garments (25.75 in/64.8 cm --maximum) two-piece garments (15.75 in/40 cm --maximum) Must be size-labeled, with label visible to consumer at point of purchase(on garment or package) Can be marketed as sleepwear

2. Skin Tight Garments for over 9 months Exempt because studies indicate that tight-fitting garments are a much less flammability risk than loose fitting garments such as nightgowns, robes, and pajamas. •

• • • • •

• •

•

May be sold as sleepwear without having to meet the additional sleepwear flammability standards and testing. Covers one-piece and two-piece garments Covers footed and non-footed garments No restriction on fabric construction or content Must be tapered at ankles and wrists Must not exceed maximum dimensions in seven critical areas (see “Maximum Dimensions for Tight Fitting Garments”). Must be size-labeled Ornamentation is limited-cannot extend more than ¼ in. from point of attachment to outer surface Can be marketed as sleepwear


April 2008


3. Long Underwear---must match silhouette in Diagram D (2-piece non-footed garments in sizes 0-14) and adhere to the following: Garment must be designed to be skin tight Garment must be made of fabric traditionally used in long underwear Garment must be clearly promoted as underwear Garment must not be decorated with a large amount of trim such as ribbons, lace, etc. Specific sizing standards (equal to or less) used by the CPSC to determine skin tightness for long underwear—(see “Long Underwear, Critical Dimensions”). Wrist and ankle cuffs must be tight enough to secure the underwear in place as a child pulls an outer garment over it. Sleep-related motifs are not permissible, as this type of decoration may lead the consumer to believe the items can be used as sleepwear. Long-underwear features, like rib-knit cuffs and exposed elastic waistbands, are highly recommended. • • • • •

•

•

•


April 2008


Sleepwear Silhouettes A. One-Piece Footed Garments:

B. One-Piece Non-Footed Garments:


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C. Two-Piece Footed Garments:

D. Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments:

E. Gown with Drawstring Bottom:


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F. Gown with Open Bottom:

Robe:


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Traditional Sleepwear Fabric (CPSC Guidelines) Type of Fabric

Weight Range (oz/yd2)

Jersey Knit Blanket Weight Fleece Brushed Jersey Stretch Terry Interlock and Rib Knit Warp Knit Flannel

2.4-5.2 5.0-7.0 5.7-6.7 5.5-7.7 4.0-6.0 2.6-4.2

Note: Use of fabrics outside these weight ranges and/or constructions does not guarantee that a garment will be considered “playwear”. Fabrics that are not traditionally used in sleepwear include: Corduroy Velours French terry Waffle knits Sweatshirt fleece Woven twills • • • • • •


April 2008


Long Underwear:

Critical Dimensions for Two-Piece Non-Footed Garments Pursuant to the CPSC guidelines, "decorative" long underwear and similar garments are considered to be "skin tight" if their critical dimensions are equal to or less than the standard garment measurements published by the National Institute for Standards and Technology covering garments in all sizes. If a garment is sized in "ranges", such as Small

(5), Medium (M) and Large (L), the standard measurement used for comparison will be that of the smallest size within the range. For example, if a “Small” covers sizes 4 to 6, the size 4 standards will be used by the CPSC to determine whether the garment is skin tight. It is important to note that the CPSC will measure garments prior to shrinkage (i.e., prior to washing in accordance with care instructions) in determining critical dimensions. The following charts set forth the critical dimensions evaluated by the CPSC: A. Chest Measurements B. Hip Measurements C. Thigh Measurements

A) CHEST—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES --

3 mos.

6 mos.

12 mos. (Size 1)

18 mos.

17

18

19

20

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 21

3

4

5

6

6X

22

23

24

25

25.5

How to measure : The chest is measured horizontally across the front of the garment from underarm to underarm. This measurement is then doubled to arrive at the chest circumference. In each size listed, the chest circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight.


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B) HIPS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES -Waist to Hip Hip

3 mos.

6 mos.

12 mos. (Size 1)

18 mos.

3 7/8 21 ½

3 7/8 21 ½

3 7/8 21 ½

3 7/8 21 ½

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) Waist to Hip 3 7/8 Hip

21 ½

3 4 3/8

4 4¾

5 5 1/8

6 5½

6X 5¾

22 ½

23 ½

24 ½

25 ½

26 ½

Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes of long underwear critical dimensions for hips.

How to measure : The hip is first located by using the size standards labeled “Waist to Hip.” For example, the hip on a size 4 garment will be located exactly 4 ¾ inches from the waistband. Once the hip is located, it is measured across the front of the garment, and this measurement is doubled to arrive at the hip circumference. In each size listed, the hip circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight. C) THIGHS—STANDARD MEASUREMENTS IN INCHES INFANT SIZES --

3 mos.

6 mos.

12 mos. (Size 1)

18 mos.

12

12

12

12

CHILDREN'S SIZES -- 2 (24 mos.) 12

3

4

5

6

6X

12 ½

13

13 ½

14

14 ½

Note: Measurements for sizes 0-24 mos (size 0 to 2) are based upon the Size 2 standards for purposes of long underwear critical dimensions for Thighs.

How to measure: The thigh is measured horizontally across the upper leg area to the crotch. The measurement is doubled to arrive at the thigh circumference. In each size listed, the thigh circumference must be equal to, or less than, the above standard measurements in order for the garment to be considered skin tight.


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Maximum Dimensions for Tight-Fitting Garments (In Centimeters (CM) and Inches (IN))

CHEST CM 9-12 mos. 12-18 mos 18-24 mos Size 2 Size 3 Size 4 Size 5 Size 6 Size 6X

WAIST IN

CM

SEAT IN

CM

48.3

19

48.3

19

49.5

19.5

49.5

52.1

20.5

50.8

52.1

20.5

53.3

21

UPPER ARM CM

IN

THIGH IN

CM

WRIST IN

CM

ANKLE IN

CM

IN

48.3

19

14.3

5.625

26.7

10.5

10.5

4.125

13

5.125

19.5

50.8

20

14.9

5.875

28.3

11.125

10.5

4.125

13.1

5.125

20

53.3

21

15.6

6.125

29.5

11.625

11

4.25

13.6

5.375

50.8

20

53.3

21

15.6

6.125

29.8

11.75

11.4

4.5

14

5.5

52.1

20.5

56

22

16.2

6.375

31.4

12.375

11.7

4.625

14.9

5.875

56

22

53.3

21

58.4

23

16.8

6.625

33

13

12.1

4.75

15.9

6.25

58.4

23

54.6

21.5

61

24

17.5

6.875

34.6

13.625

12.4

4.875

16.8

6.625

61

24

55.9

22

63.5

25

18.1

7.125

36.2

14.25

12.7

5

17.8

7

62.9

24.75

57.2

22.5

65.4

25.75

18.7

7.375

37.8

14.875

13

5.125

18.7

7.375


April 2008

APPENDIX B

Needle Detectors 100% NEEDLE DETECTION IS A REQUIREMENT FOR GARMENTS SHIPPED IN SIZES INFANTS AND TODDLERS.

Broken needles are a common problem at factory level, and it is crucial that no sharp points or sharp edges be found in these garments. 1. A conveyer type needle detector is highly recommended Belt speed must be set at manufacturer’s setting, and must not be altered. Manual use of machine is not acceptable • •

2. The sensitivity of the machine must be set to a 1.2mm iron sphere . The iron sphere is an industry accepted practice for calibration, since: most needles are made of an iron alloy a sphere produces a constant signal and is not affected by orientation. • •

1.2 mm is used, since: the majority of the breaks occur at the eye of the needle, leaving the tips embedded in the garment. It has been determined that the smallest size of a needle tip would be 1.2 mm in diameter. •

•

3. Calibration Calibration is performed by using a 1.2 mm iron sphere. Manufacturer’s instructions must be followed for proper calibration. Frequent calibrations---at least twice and day, and always before switching from one garment style to another. A daily record must be kept by the factory and available to Ann Taylor Corporate QC upon request. Note: The weakest point of sensitivity is in the middle of the aperture (#5 in below diagram); however the iron sphere must be placed through the machine in all 9 areas for calibration purposes. • • •

POINTS OF CALIBRATION Cross Section of Needle Detector Tunnel 7

8

9

4

5

6

1

2

3

Top Middle Bottom

Section 10 - Infant and Toddler Requirements and Testing

53

December 2007

Ann Taylor Manual 6-13-08

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