This is a sampling of pages from
FERMENTED VEGET VEGETABLES ABLES © 2014 by Kirsten Shockey and Christopher Shockey All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages or reproduce illustrations in a review with appropriate credits; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means — electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other — without written permission from the publisher.
Photography by © Erin Kunkel Illustrations by © Daniel Everett
Why We Ferment, 11 PART 1
�ippin� �ip pin� int i nto o t�e t �e �rine �ri ne FERMENTATION FUNDAMENTALS
— 14 — CHAPTER 1
Back to the Future: Future: Vegetable Vegetable Fermentation as Preservation Preservation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
CHAPTER 2
The Inner Life of Pickli Pickling: ng: The Science behind Vegetable Vegetable Fermentation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
CHAPTER 3
Crocks and Rocks: Rocks: The Tools Tools of of the Trade Trade
................. .................. ..
31
PART 2
�asterin� t�e �asics KRAUT, CONDIMENTS, PICKLES, AND KIMCHI
— 48 — CHAPTER 4
Mastering Sauerkrau Sauerkrautt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
CHAPTER 5
Mastering Condiments: Condiments: Variations on Kraut
CHAPTER 6
Mastering Brine Pickli Pickling ng . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77
CHAPTER 7
Mastering Kimch Kimchii Basics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
CHAPTER 8
Practical Matters: Stor Storage age and Tr Troubles oubleshooting hooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
................. .................
65
PART 3
In t�e �roc� FERMENTING VEG ETA ETABLES BLES A TO Z
— 102 — Garden Vegetables and Herbs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Arugula, 109
Eggplant, 174
Radicchio, 218
Asparagus, 110
Escarole, 176
Radishes, 219
Basil, 113
Fennel, 178
Rapini (Broccoli Rabe), 222
Beans, Green, 116
Garlic, 180
Rhubarb, 223
Beets, 119
Garlic Scapes, 183
Rutabaga, 225
Broccoli, 127
Grape Leaves, 184
Scallions (Green Onions), 226
Brussels Sprouts, 127
Horseradish, 185
Shiso, 228
Burdock (Gobo), 129
Jicama, 187
Spinach, 233
Cabbage, Green and Savoy, 131
Kohlrabi, 189
Sunchokes, 236
Cabbage, Napa or Chinese, 140
Leeks, 191
Sweet Potatoes, 237
Cabbage, Red, 147
Mushrooms, 193
Tomatillos, Tomati llos, 24 0
Carrots, 148
Mustard Greens, 195
Tomatoes, 241
Caulifower, 151
Okahijiki Greens (Saltwort), 197
Turmeric, 243
Celeriac, 156
Okra, 199
Turnips, 245
Celery, 158
Onions, 201
Winter Squash, 248
Chard, 160
Pak Choi (Bok Choy), 205
Cilantro (Coriander), 160
Parsley, 206
Zucchini and Other Summer Zucchini Squash, 252
Collard Greens, 163
Parsnips, 208
Corn, 165
Peas, 210
Cucumbers, 166
Peppers, 212
Foraged Ve Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Dandelion Flowers, Leaves, and Roots, 259
Ramps, 264
Lamb’s-Quarters, 261
Watercress, 265
Nettles, 263
Fruits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 267 Apples, 267
Cranberries, 273
Citrus Fruits, 270 PART 4
On t�e �late — 276 — CHAPTER 9
Breakfast: Culture for for the Gutsy Gutsy
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
CHAPTER 10
Snacks: A Pickle a Day Keeps the Doctor Away . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 291
CHAPTER 11
Lunch: Ferments Ferments on on the Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301
CHAPTER 12
Happy Hour: Crocktails
CHAPTER 13
Dinner: Brine and Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
CHAPTER 14
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323
Dessert: Really? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349
Appendix: Scum — The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly, 356 Resources, 360 Bibliography, 363
Acknowledgments, 366 Index, 367
So You Want to Ferment without Salt? Any serious fermentista will encounter salt-phobic people who try to make salt-free sauerkraut or want to convince you to do the same. There are certainly a lot of recipes out there on the Web; some require a blender, some use seaweed or celery seeds in place of salt. With care and luck, fermentation can be accomplished without the salt, and some people do so successfully. Expect these ferments to be softer and at times mushy. But why not use salt in your ferments? Our bodies need salt anyway. Without it we die. A study published in the American Journal of Medicine in in 2006 reads, “Sodium intake of less than 2300 mg [the daily recommended allowance] was associated with a 37% increase in cardiovascular disease mortality and a 28% increase of all-cause mortality.” In other words, without the correct balance of salt and water, the systems in our body stop functioning. As with most things, common sense and balance are key.
RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SALSAS/SA RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SA LSAS/SALADS LADS VISUAL GUI DE
1. Thinly
slice the vegetables.
2. Work
3. Cover
the vegetables and set aside to allow brine to
4. Press
in the salt.
the vegetables under the brine.
develop.
MASTERING CONDIMENTS
67
RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SALSAS/SA RELISHES/CHUTNEYS/SA LSAS/SALADS LADS VISUAL GUI DE
5. Submerged
and weighted = healthy environment environment for
fermentation.
68
MASTERING THE BASICS
6. Ready
for long-term storage, with a piece of waxed paper in place to impede evaporation.
PASTES AND BASES VISUAL GUIDE
1. Chop
or pulse the veg gies to a fine consistency.
3. Place
a ziplock bag on the surface of the ferment, and fill the bag to the jar rim with water to create weight.
2. Press the paste to remove air pockets and bring brine to the surface.
4. Ready for long-term storage, with a piece of waxed paper in place to impede evaporation.
MASTERING CONDIMENTS
71
WHOLE-LEAF FERMENTS VISUAL GUIDE
1. Fresh
leaves before salt is added.
2. Leaves
wilted by salt.
The Taste Test: Navigating through the Scum to the Kraut on the Other Side
When it’s time to taste-test your ferment, be warned: there may b e scum, blooms of yeas ts, or molds on top of your followers, or even on your ferment. Take your time and follow these directions. 1.
Remove the weight.
2.
Wipe the insides of your jar or crock with a clean towel carefully so as not to disturb the ferment or the scum.
3.
Gently remove the follower. follower. There is often sediment on top of the follower; follower; try not to disturb it too much.
4.
You will be looking at the primary follower; if it is leaves, lift them out carefully, collecting any stray floating flo ating vegetable bits in with them; discard. If it is plastic wrap and there is brine on top, ladle out any ex tra floating vegetable bits. Pull out the plastic wrap, folding folding it over to catch any sediment se diment (this (this sediment is not harmful but may impart a flavor).
5.
If the ferment is completely under the brine, it will be good. If the brine level is low and close to the surface of the ferment, there may be some soft or off-color areas; simply remove these parts. The ferment underneath will be fine and ready to taste.
MASTERING CONDIMENTS
73
SEASONINGS You can make simple savory seasonings by dehydrating fermented fermented veggies veg gies and grindi grinding ng them in a blender blender.. When the brine is evaporated, you are left with the original salt and the concentrated flavor of the vegetable. For example, the Simple Beet Kraut pictured below (page 120) makes a lovely deep pink tangy spice, which is not only stunning sprinkled on top of a salad but also delicious. If you don’t eat it too quickly, dehydrate your kimchi for instant kimchi spice. Many a ferment can make a perfect seasoning dehydrated as is. Some ferments are fun to jazz up even more with other herbs and spices, or even sesame ses ame seeds, like Shiso Gomashio (page 229). And these seas onings are shelf stable, so they can live and probiotically probiotically season your food straight from the cabinet for months. Dehydrating can also be a strategy for clearing out older krauts from the fridge when you are ready to make more. To make seasonings: 1.
Drain the brine from the ferment by letting it sit in a strainer over a bowl for 30 minut minutes, es, or by putting it in cheese cloth and actively squeezing out the juice. You want to get the loose drippy moisture out; you don’t need to squeeze it completely dry.
3.
Spread the ferment out on a tray or baking sheet and dry for 8 to 10 hours or overnight in a dehydrator at 100°F.
3.
Shelf life life for dried krauts is 6 months at room temperature. The lower the temperature, the longer the shelf life (for example, 60° F increases viabil viability ity to 12 to 18 months). Refrigerate Refrigerate or freeze in airtight containers for long-term s torage.
MASTERING CONDIMENTS
75
PICKLED GARLIC SCAPES,
ONION AND PEPPER RELISH (made with habanero), pag e 2 03
pag e 1 84
SWEET PEPPER SALSA, NAKED KRAUT, pa ge 1 32
pa ge 2 15
FENNEL CHUTNEY,
pag e 17 8
SIMPLE BEET KRA UT,
pag e 12 0
FERMENTED SHISO LEAVES, pag e 2 2 8
CHIPOTLE SQUASH KRAUT, pag e 2 49
KRAUTCHEESE,
pag e 2 84
HERB SCHMEAR,
pag e 2 82
GADO GADO SCHMEAR,
pa ge 2 84
SMOKY KRAUT QUICHE
KRAUT BALLS
BACON-WRAPPED DOG
FISH TACOS, pag e 3 09
SUSHI-NORIMAKI
KIMCHI LATKES, pa ge 3 35
GRILLED CHICKEN WITH FERMENTED SWEE T POTATOES AND PEANUT SAUCE
