A Handbook of Cosmetics

A Handbook of

COSMETICS he a 9n ln a

rf io lt

is e

B.M. MITIIAL

.

M.Pharm., Ph.D., MRPharmS Professor of Pharmacy & Deputy Director and

N.N. SAI{A M.Pharm., Ph.D. Professor of Pharmacy and Group Leader (Head) Birla

Institute

of Technolory PII"ANI, India

and Science,

Preface

rs B N 8r - 8573r - 2 2 -5 VPBN 48 First Edition Reprint Reprint Reprint Reprint

2000 2003 2004 2005 2006

@2000 by authorsand publishers All rights reserved. No pad and style of this book be reproducedor transmitted,in any form, or by any means---€lectronic, mechanical,photocopying,recordingor otheiwise,without prior permissionof the publishersand authors.

Publishedby M K Jain for VALLABH PRAKASHAN AP-53A,Pitampura,DELHI-110088 Phone:.27317755 e-mail : [email protected]

A thought to bring out a Handbook of Cosmetics has been in the mind since 1950 when one of the authors (BMM) started teaching a course on Perfume and Cosmetics to the B.Pharm. students of the then Birla College, Pilani. The course was discontinued from 1964 when Birla Institute of Technology and Science was for.med. However, a course named, 'Cosmetic Science' has been reintroduced. Importance of the book on Cosmetics has been felt ever since. In the last 20 years or so the use of cosmetics has been continuously increasing so much so that many colleges/universities have introduced courses in cosmetics. This book intends to provide a hand book on cosmetics which may be introducedin colleges. The cosmetic products are classified and arranged according to their site of application and function. Though a general manufacturing procedure is given but for special type of products, specific and separate procedure is also given. Basic aspectsof quality control and evaluation of products are also mentioned in each chapter. There is in the market good literature already existing. The subject matter is mainly from the student angle, and it is hoped that it rvill fulfil that purpose besides providing handy literature to anyone interested in the design and manufacture of cosmetics. Any suggestionby the readers will be appreciated. The authors express sincere gratitude to Mr C. Sreekhar of the Pharmacy Group for proof reading and Mr Sharwan Kumar Vajpayee, Deputy Director's Office for help in word processingthe manuscript.

Pilani 13 April 2000

B.M. Mithal R.N. Saha

Rs 125 (in Delhi) Rs 130 (outside Delhi)

Printed at Nerv Gyan Offset Printers, Delhi

(iii)

Contents Preface

lll

1. Cosmetics-An

Introduction

1 I

2. The Skin

1l

3. Powders and Compacts

2l

4. Skin Colorants

39

5. Skin Creafns

6l

6. SunscreenPreparations

90

7. Hair

105

8. Hair CleansingPreparations

110

9. Hair Tonics

r22

10. Hair Colorants

r28

11. Hair Grooming Aids

I4l

12. Hair Wavers, Curlers and Straighteners

152

13. Hair Removers

161

14. Shaving Preparations

r69

15. Nail

118

16. Nail Lacquers and Removers

r82

17. Auxiliary Products for Nails

r93

18. Tooth and Oral Cavity

199

19. Dental Care Preparations

203

20. Mouthwashes

216

APPENDIX-I

225

: Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act applicable to Cosmetics

APPENDIX-II : Most Often Used Ingredienrsof Cosmetics

231

APPENDTX-III: Bibliography

239

APPENDIX-IV : Model Questions

239

SUBJECT INDEX

255 (v)

CHAPTER-1

An Introduction The word 'cosmetics' arises from a Greek wotd 'kosmeticos' which means to adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or improvement of appearanceis known as cosmetic. The urge to adorn one's own body and look beautiful has been an urge in the human race since the firibal days. Earlier both males and females were equal competitors for improvement of appearance. Males decorated themselves with animal parts and vegetable leaves etc. while women did so by wearing any coloured stones or, flowers round their neck and the wrists. At a later stage they employed coloured earth for faces and bodies and still later coloured ointrnents. Bangles and necklacesmade of baked earth also becamecommon in the early civilization as well as shells of various kinds obtained from nature. In digging up ancient Egyptian tombs much light has fallen on the ancient practicesof beautification. Pharaohian tombs have revealed that coloured earths were like malachite green. The copper ore was used as eye shadows. Lamp black was commo,n too for eyes. For dyeing of hairs red was also practised. The dancing ladies applied ointments perfumed with materials like myrrh to head so that when they danced the perfumed ointment would flow down their bodies emitting pleasant smell all over. 'I'he history also records that when Jehu went to the town of Jezebel she painted her face and looked out from window. The use of cosmetics in ancient Egypt reached heights with the famous queen Cleopatra who tried to beguile Caesar and Antony the Romans when they visited Egypt. Shakespeare has summarized it by this line, "Had Cleopatra's nose been lgnger, the shape of the world would have been different." The women of the world feel inspired when they have a mental feeling that they are looking good' Hence, the practice of adornment or improvement of appearancecontinued unabated across the centuries. Various kinds of natural materials were used for the purpose. The practice of use of cosmetics must have grown to an appreciable extent becausethe British Parliament enacted a Law in 1770, which still stands unrepealedand is as follows;

A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS

"That all women of whatever age, rank, profession or degree whether virgins, maids or widows that shall from and after such Act impose upon, seduce and betray into matrimony any of His Majesty's subjects by the scents, paints, cosmetics, washes, artificial teeth, false hair, Spanish .wool, iron stays, hoops, high heeled shoes, bolstered hips, shall incur the penalty of law in force against witchcraft and like misdemeanours and that such marriage upon conviction shall stand null and void." It is interesting to note that even materials like high heeled shoes, artificial denture etc. are classed as materials of adomment. One wonders how many females were so prosecutedand their marriagesnullified. It was an act of distinction between male and female subject5. Maybe the circumstances prevailing then were such that law was considered essential. In modern days cosmetics are the rage and are considered to be essentialcommodities of life. The role of cosmeticsin everyday life met greater acceptability after World War II. It was realized by social and medical scientists that cosmetics not only adore but they exercise psychological effect on users and specially on the skin. They keep the skin supple delaying the onset of wrinkling. They are also helpful in skin infections and prevention of sunburns. In the last 3-4 decades the use of cosmetics has increased exponentially not only among in females but the male population also indulges in their use. Hair dyes, powders, crearns are as popular with males as with females. Most countries have now laws to control, manufacture, labelling, sale etc. of cosmetics in such a way that use of cosmetics harmful to health is prevented. In India Drugs Act has been renamed as Drugs and Cosmetics Act and contains some sections to exercise control over cosmetics. The cosmetics in general are external preparations and are meant to be applied to external parts of the body. In other words they may be applied to skin, hair and nails for the purposes of covering, colouring, softening, cleansing, nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preservation, removal and protection. The cosmetics may be classified into 4 main groups namely(l) (2) (3) (4)

Cosmeticsfor Cosmetics for Cosmetics for Cosmetics for

Skin Hair Nails Hygiene (Dental, Bathing, etc.)

Ch.I

AN INTRODUCTION

3

All cosmeticsare formulatedas solids,semi-solidsor liquids. Their formuladesignis very akin to drug dosageforms. cosilETtcs

I

Skin

Powders compacts

Hair

Nall

Creams

Lotions Colourants tl I' Lipsticks I Lacquers Rouges ' Skinlotions Laquer Astringent removers lotions Vanisfingcreams Nail Cold creams polishes All purpose creams Cuticle Face powders removers and compacts, Body powders, Prickly heat powoers, Face pack

Hail remover Depilatories Epilatories Shavingprep.

Hairwaveprep Hairdressing Hairconditioner

Shampoos Eye lashprep Dyes Mascaras Hairlotions Eyebrowpencils Dandrufflotions Kohls

Fig. l-l Classification of cosmetics Cosmetics for the Skin The skin covers vast area of body and cosmetics are applied to many parts, most important part being the face. The skin cosmetics are -the formulated in the form of solids, semi-solids and liquids. The solids consist of powders with different degreesof flow and angle of repose or of compacts. The semi-solids may be emulsions or simple admixtures and liquids are both monophasic and biphasic. The solid products consist of face powders, body powders, compacts and moulded products like lipsticks. Face powders which are applied to the face consist of many ingredients besides covering agents like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. They remove oily appearanceand give the face a smooth, dry and peach-like finish. The face powders as per their covering power are classihed as light, mediurn or heavy powders. Some face powers are slightly tinted on the pink side. Face powders are packed in elegant plastic boxes with lids.

4

6 HANDBOOK oF COSMETICS

The other category of powders consist of body powders or talcum powders which are applied to various parts of the body as well asto face and possessa good degree ofslip or spreadability. The quantity ofbody powders consurnedeach year is very high in comparison to face powders and other cosmetics. In these powders particle size is very small and all powders have large amounts of additives which provide and form the base of the powder. The compactsare round cakes of face powders generally with a slight pinkish tint. They are applied with a matching piece of fabric which is packed along with it. The compacts are prepared by compression of face powders containing some binders like mucilage of gums, soapsetc. and for application the piece of fabric is rubbed on the compact and then applied to the face as per needs. They are mounted in rcund casesone side of which is a mirror. In addition to compacts, 'Cake Make ups' have also been patented. Such cakes are dry and applied with a rnoistened pad. They contain some oily/waxy components (l to 25Yo), pigments (about l0%), fillers and water-soluble dispersing agents (l-13%). The fillers are talc, chalk, etc. The same are applied with a moistened pad. They are preparedby granulation followed by compression. Sorne 'liquid powders' have also been marketed as replacement for powders to whiten the shoulders,neck etc. for dances. phenazonewas at one time used for this (20% solution) tinted with a water-soluble dye. But use of phenazone on skin has raised eyes of dermatologists,their application is also a handicap. Hence, liquid powders carne into vogue. These are prepared with addition of glycerine (15%) to a face powder base consisting of chalk, zinc oxide etc. They also contain aboul 600/o water and viscosity is imparted by 0.5%oof rnethylcellulose. The colours may be shadesof red, yellow or brown pigments. An important category of skin cosmetics are the colouring agents which are used generally for coloration of lips, cheeks, eyelids (eye shadows) and mascarasfor eyelashesand eyebrow pencils. In colorants, lipsticks are used by masseswhile other products are used very selectively. Lipsticks impart an attractive colour and looks to the lips. Lips can also be made to look wider or narrower if it is applied intelligently and artistically. The basewhich is coloured to produce lipsticks consists of a judicious blend of oily and waxy materials, the important ones being beeswax, carnauba wax, ceresin, paraffin wax, vaseline, etc. The formula of each individual manufacturer varies. Some lipsticks include some zinc oxide (2oh) or titanium oxide (l%) to impart some covering

Ch.l

AN INTRODUCTION

5

power. Most lipsticks are prepared by moulding. To give a glossy finish they may be exposed momentarily to small flame for the material to melt and set quickly. This is said to impart glossy finish. Next important category of colouring preparations are the rouges which are generally applied to cheeks to make them look rosy since rosy cheeks are considered to be indicators of good health. Rouges are marketed as solid compacts or as wax, anhydrous or hydrous creams and also as liquids. Compacts containing binders are prepared by compression or moulding. Generally soaps of ammonia-stearic acid and starch are used. The colours have to be certified colours only under Drugs & Cosmetics Act. In rouges an opaque base is more desirable' The bases may contain about 5Vo zinc oxide for imparting opacity. In cream-type rouges the anhydrous ones are prepared by vaseline, kaolin etc. The cream rouges may be vanishing or cold cream type. The liquid rouges are not very popular but all the same are marketed to some extent. They fre prepared in mucilaginous solutions of hydrocolloids like methylcellulose (2%) in water td which colour, preservatives, perfumes etc., besideswetting agents are added. The other coloured products are mainly for the areas of the eye amongst which commonly used products are: ( 1) Mascaras(eyelashes) (2) Eyeshadows(for eyelids) (3) Eyebrow pencils (for outline of eyebrows) (4) Kohls (eyelid inside) Mascaras are used for darkening and increasing apparent length of the eyelashesso as to increasebrightnessand expressivenessofthe eyes. Mascaras are marketed as cakes, creams or liquids. These products should be evenly applicable, should be non-sticking, should dry rapidly and be absolutely non-irritant and non-toxic. The colours used are bone black, carbon black or oil black. Fine powders of silver and aluminium are also used though the same are costly now. The most important and popular category of skin cosmetics are the various kinds of creamsrand milks. The first cream in the world is said to have been prepared by Galen in Rome for the royal ladies of the Roman Empire. It was a'beeswax-boraxtype. It was a superior product to the perfumed ointments which were applied until then. The water in the cream improved its elegance,application and also had cooling effect. Nowadays there is a plethora of formulae for creams and milks, all of which are emulsion type. The creams and milks are mostly o/w type products, but some w/o type products are also there' They are vanishing

6

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

Ch.I

AN INTRODUCTION

7

tanning. Westernpeopleor peoplewith light skins like their skins to look slightly'tanned. Increasedtanning is also believedto take place after ingestionof some materialslike methoxsalenor extractsof Anmi magus.

(l) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10)

Cold creams Cleansing creams Cleansing milks Cleansing lotions Vanishing creams Foundation creams Emollient creams Skin conditioning creams AII purpose creams Moisturizing creams

Sunburn Protection and Skin Tanning preparations Exposure of body to sunlight in moderateamounts may be beneficial but excessive exposure causesdamage to various extents. It may cause: (l) Irritability and depression (2) Inflammation (3) Sepsis (4) Malignant growth (5) Movement of melanin from base layer to stratum corneum (6) Release of dilators causing erythrema (7) Sunburns and skin diseases Ultraviolet part of sunrays is held to be most detrirnental for the skin.

should be non-toxic, effectively absorb or reflect erythemogenic light without undergoing chemical change, must not decompose ii 'roisture and perspiration and should not be absorbed through skin. The sunscreen preparations are marketed as oir, lotions, powders, cfeams or only as solutions of dyes. Sunscreensalso speed up skin

Hair Preparations Hair preparationsmay be functionally categorizedinto: (l) Preparations for dressingand settingofhair (2) Preparationsfor cleansing (3) Tonics (4) Preparationsfor hair removal (5) Preparations for colouring (6) Preparationsfor applicationto areaslike eyebrows,eyelids, either for colouringor upkeep. The hair dressingincludesbrilliantinesas helps in combingof hair, hair wave products,hair settingand fixing prodiicts. The most important hair dressingusedin India is the hair oil basedon vegetableor mineral oils occasionallyclaiming to contain herbals. Brilliantinesare wrxy having preparationsconsistencyof vaselines. Hair creamswhich are emulsionsare more commondressingsin the westernworld. Curly hair probablylooks more attractirlethan straight. Earlier hair waving lvas achieved by hot iron or boiling in water. These gave permanentcurls. Then waving was done by chemicalcomponentslike ammoniumhydroxidewith borax. Many thiol compoundshave also been suggestedfor waving hair. Reducingagentsare also said to be helpful. Thesedays cold waving methodsare more commonlike pin perms,rollers etc. Somereducing lotions may also be used. ' Shampooswhich are meant for cleansing of hair and scalp are becomingvery popularin place of soapsused earlier for the purpose. With the advent of syntheticdetergents,particularly the non-ionic type, therehas beena boom in shampoos.Most shampoosare clear liquids. But now creamand solid shampoosare also available. Hair Tonics aresuspiciousproductsin the eyesof public,scientific as well as non-scientific,becauseof the word 'tonics'. The preparations underthis group includesomeperfumesfor applicationto hair as sprays, someglosseningagents,preparations for dandruff,seborrhoea, baldness etc. Many productsare advertisedas growth promotersbut such claims are suspiciouslylookedupon.

8


Ch;I AN INTRODUCTION

Hair Removers consist of depils and epils which remove the unwanted hair by dissolution of hair shafts or help it in pulling out. Shaving creams which assist in hair removal by blades/ra"o., by softening the hair shaft of faces in males may also be distantly classified in this group.

9

Nail White products are used for giving white edges. They are marketed as pastes or creams containing zinc oxide, titanium oxide, kaolin, colloidal silica etc. Cuticle Removers are used for beautifiing nails and are available in market. The shedding of outer dead cells by skin gives some grooves around nails which detract the nail beauty. These are removable by use of alkaline solutions in water by small plugs of cotton, Potassium hydroxide is best for this purpose.

Hair Dyes have become very common. Somehow grey hair has been associatedwith old age. Nobody likes the black hair to turn grey on his or her head and many people continuously use hair dyes for

Dental and Oral Care Preparations Such products are normally consideredas hygienic products but since appearanceofteeth and good breath are consideredto be overall ingredient of a cosmetic personality, all kinds of products for cleansing of teeth and mouth washes are generally formulated and marketed by cosmetic companies. For design of such products one must be familiar with tooth and gum structures. The teeth are the grinders located at the point of entry of food matbrials in the body. The food which is being cut or chewed by the teeth, its small particles get lodged into various junctions between the teeth and between teeth and gums. These food crumbs if not removed regularly may become pockets for microbes to grow. Hence their dislodgement and removal is very essential for the safety, longevity and appearanceof the teeth. Historically teeth were cleaned by use of stems of some trees. The fibres of stems provided abrasive action and trees like Neem had antiseptic elements also. Messwah was another such tree popular in India. The common tooth ailments are tartar accumulation, gingivitis, dental caries and other minor kinds of dental eating away by bacteria. So any product, paste, cake or powder must have abrasive and antiseptic action besidesgood taste, flavour etc. and medication, if necessary. The common types of dental preparations are: (l) Tooth pastes (2) Tooth powders (3) Dentifrices

The preparations used on eyebrows, eyelashesand eyelids are very special products. The trade in them is of a very small order. Cosmetics for Nails The nails, in particular the nail plates of the fingers of hands and feet, have been subjects of decoration. The main decoration is in terms of shine or colour. The shine or polish is done by applicationof sorne alrasive rnaterialslike stannic oxide or powdered silica and rubbing with a chamois leather. wax porishes with abrasivesare arso Th" "orrroon. mo st popular nail d re s s i n gi s th e c o l o u re d n a i r l acquers or pol i shes which give a coloured coating to the nail plates. Generally they consist of nitro celluloses, plasticizers, solvents and colours. The nail polishesor lacquersshould be finely ground to distributethe dye and should have hardnessand plasticity. corour should not alter on keeping and when appried. Even drying shourd taiie prace within a few minutes. Enamel Removers have also come into market. They consist of mainly solvent capable of nitrocellulose dissolution. They may be marketedas such or as creams. Nail creams are in fashion too. They are appried to brittre nails. Cold, vanishing or all purpose creallts can also be applied. : Nail Bleaches are employed to remove stains of tobacco or other stains by oxidation or reductitrn: For oxidation hydrogen peroxide, chlorine compounds;perboratesor peroxidesare used. For reduction sulphiteswith dilute acid'are suitable.,

\-_

The tooth pastes and powders are similar in composition except that tooth paste is made pasty by addition of suitable additives. They basically contain: (l) (2) (3) (4)

I

.lt

Abrasives Fillers Antiseptic compounds Surface active agents/soaps

l0


(5) (6) (7) (8)

Glycerine, hydrocolloids Flavouring agents Taste imparters Colours

The denfifrices are solid cakes and for application to teeth they rnay be taken on tooth brushes in a moist state.

CHAPTER-2

The Skin

The mouthwashes are mainly solutions of antiseptic substanceswith various other additives. The same are not very popular. To get a comprehensive idea of the cosmetics the chart presentedon page 3 of this book may be useful. on the whole cosmetics are important group of consumer materials. Their flavours or smells are very significant in their selection bv the common man. Evaluation and Quality Control The cosmetics are very important. All the products should be evaluated for their performance, ingredients, etc. It is also necessaryto check whether the products have any sensitivity or toxic effects.

Since most of the cosmetic preparationsare meant to be applied on skin for beautification, protection or other purposes,basic knowledge of the skin and its functions is very much important for designing cosmetics meant for specific purpose of the skin. The skin, the heaviest single organ of the body, combines with the mucosal lining of the respiratory, digestive and urogenital tracts to form a capsule which separatesthe internal body structures from the external environment. It not only physically protects the internal organs and limits the passage of substances into and out of the body but also stabilisestemperatureand blood pressurewith its circulation and evaporation system. For an averagesix-foot, 70-kg human, the skin surfacearea is 1.9 m2 and weighs about 2100 gms. A typical square centimetre of skin covers l0 hair fcrllicles, 12 nerves, 15 sebaceousglands, 100 sweat glands, 3 blood vesselswith 92 cm of nervesand 3x106 cells. Normally the skin is very smooth. However, due to aging and exposure to heat and cold, sunrays,pressureand abrasion,dust and microbial infection, etc. the srnoothnessmay be lost and the skin becomesrougher and thicker. Aging also produces wrinklels on the skin surfaoe. pH of the skin varies from 4 to 5"6 and refers to the pH of the film of aqueous and other soluble materials present on the surface of the skin. Sweat and fatty acids secretedfrom sebum influence the pH of the skin surface. It is suggestedthat acidity of the skin helps in limiting or preventing the growth of pathogensand other organisms. Functions and Compositions of Skin Skin performs several functions including containrnentof body fluids and tissues; protection fi'om external stimuli like chemicals, light, heat and cold, radiation etc.; reception of stimuli like pressure, heat, pain; biochemical synthesis; metabolism and disposal of biochemical wastes; regulation of body temperature;controlling of blood pressure. ll


t2

,""'6tin contains several chemical substanceswith specific functions like keratin, Iipids, fatty acids, proteinase,etc' Keratin is produced from polypeptides in the cytoplasm of epidermal cells by a high energy system at the granular layer of normal human skin. of Sebum is the product of the sebaceous glands and consists triglycerides, free fatty acids, waxes, sterols, squalene and paraffins' Free fatty acids are responsible for bactericidal and fungicidal activities. Skin also contains two essential fatty acids, called linoleic acid and arachidonic acid, which play an irnportant role in regulating the barrier functions. Skin synthesizeson steroid, vitamin D3, that subsequentlygets converted to the horrnone calcitriol which is important to normal calcium metabolism. in A proteinase has been isolated which is believed to play a role modulating the inflammatory responseto cellular injury' Anatomy and PhYsiologY T hehur nans k i n c o m p ri s e s o fth re e d i s ti n c tbutmutual l ydependent an tissues (Fig. 2-l), the stratified, avascular, cellular epidermis and Ha ir follicle Stratum corneum

Ha ir shaft

l3

Ch.z THE SKIN

underlying dermis of connective tissue. At the bottom of the dermislies the fatty, subcutaneous laYer. Human skin displays two main types. Hairy skin encloses hair follicles and sebaceous glands, but there are no encapSulatedsense organs. Glabrous skin of the palms and the soles is made of a thick epidermis with a compact stratum corneum, but the integuments lack hair follicles and sebaceousglands and the dermis supports encapsulated sense organs A. The Epidermis The multilayer envelope of the epidermis varies in thickness,depending on cell size and the number of cell layers, ranging from about 0.g mm on the palms and the soles down to 0.06 mm on the eyelids. I stratum corneum I-l

.,u,nn

J

epidermis Dermal vasculature Eccrinegland duct

of epidermis Fig.2-2 Magnification Sebaceous srarru Arrectores

Dermal vasculature

pilorum muscle

Living epidermis

Subcutaneous fatty tissue SLrbcutaneous vasulature

ofthe skin Fig. 2-l Schematiccross-section

Cells which provide epithelial tissue differ from those of all other organs in that as they ascend from the proliferative layer of basal cells they change in an ordered fashion from metabolically active and dividing cells to dense, dead, keratinized protein' Downward, the epidermis comprises of five distinct and separatelayers: (l) The horny tayer (Stratum corneum) : At the final stage of differentiation, epidermal cells construct the most superficial layer of the epidennis, the stratum corneum. Human beings owe their ability to survive in a non-aqueousenvironment to the almost impermeablenature of this refractory horny layer. on the general body areasthe membtane provides about 10-15 layers of much flattened, keratinized de_ad-cells, ttu"king them in highly organised units of vertical columns. The horny laye. may be only l0 pm thick when dry, but swells in water to several times this thickness. However, at friction surfaces of the body like palms and soles the thickness may be as high as seyeral hundred micrometres. When dry it is a very dense tissue' about i '5 gmlcrn3'

A HANDBOOK oF COSMETICS

14

Each thin polygonal cell measures approximately 0.5 to l.5 pm thick, with the diameter ranging from 34 pm on the foreheadto 46 pm on the thigh axilla. At normal relative humidities, a normal stratum corneum can take up moisture upto I 5-20% of its dry weight. But in water logged condition water content of sorne areas of, the body can be several times of the dry weight. When occlusive dressing or c.reamsare applied over skin, the stratum corneull can become highly hydrated due to prevention of natural evaporation of water. By this process some substancesmay become more soluble in it as well. Conversely as the stratum corneum dries out it becomes brittle. Thus the ultradry, inelastic tissue tends to split when stretched causing conditions like chapped lips, windburn and dishiran hands. One can distinguish two types of horny layers by anatornic site, function and structure. The horny pads of the palms and soles adapt for weight bearing and friction and the membranous stratum corneum over the remainder of the body is flexible but impenneable. The horny pads are at least 40 times thicker than the membranoushorny layer. Holbrook and Odland carried out an ultrastructural analysis of the stratum corneum to find out the regional differences in the thickness (cell layers) in humans (Table 2-l). The methodsthat were utilised for measurementof the layers were: (a) Scotch tape stripping to remove cell layers" The number of strippings were correlated with the nurnber of cell layers. (b) Treatment of paraffin embedded and frozen biopsies with alkali to cause swellins. hence better visualization and more accurate counting. (c) Application of standard chemical fixation, paraffin embedment and staining proceduresfor histological sections. Thickness was measured rry.itha micrometer eyepiece. TABLE 2-I Regional Differences in the Thickness and Cell Layers of the Straturn Corneum Bod.y Region

Abdornen Flexorforearrn 'I'high Biri;k

Thickness of S C. (pm)

Number of Cell Lqvers

A[ean

Runge

lu[ean

8 .2 t2 9 t{ ).9 9 .4

5.9-98 8.tr- 16.2 7.7-t5 .3 8 .2 -r1 .3

18.0 21.6 19.3 15.8

Ilange 15.0-20.9 r 6.7-30.0 143-22.7 I 4.0-21l

Ch-2 THE SKIN

15

Human beings constantly shed the outermost layers of the stratum corneum as lipid-soaked horny flakes with an average daily loss from the whole body surface of 0.5 to 1.0 kg. The stratum corneum plays a crucial role in controlling the percutaneous absorption of chemical substances. The selective permeability of its elegant structure provides a central theme in many aspectsof design of cosmetics. (2) Stratum lucidum : In the palm of the hand and the sole of the foot, an anatomically distinct, poorly staining hyaline zone forms a thin, translucent layer immediately above the granular layer. This region is the stratum lucidum. The cells are non nuclear. (3) Stratum granulosurn (granular layer) : This layer is above the keratinocytes. They manufacture basic staining particles, the keratinohyaline granules. This keratogenous or transitional zone is a region of intense biochemical activity and morphological change. The dynamic operation manufactures the keratin to form the horny layer by an active rather by a degenerativeprocess. (4) Stratum spinosum (prickly cell layer) : The cells of this layer are produced by morphological and histochemical alteration of the cells of 'basal layer as they moved upward. The bells flatten dnd their nuclei shrink. They are also called polygonal cells, prickle cells, becausethey are interconnectedby fine prickles. Each prickle enclosesan extension of tnd cytoplasm" and the opposing tips of the prickles of adjacent cells adhere to form intercellular bridges, the desmosomes. These links maintain the integrity of the epidermis. (5) Stratum germinativum (basal layer and dermoepidermal junction) : The basal cells are nucleated, columnar and about 6 pm wide, with their long axis at right angles to the dermoepidermaljunction, they are connected by cytoplasmic intercellular bridges. Mitosis of the basal cells constantly renews the epidermis and this proliferation in healthy skin balances the loss of dead horny cells from the skin surface. Thus the thickness of epidermis remains constant' The basal cells also include melanocytes which produce and distribute melanin granules to the keratinocy'tes required for pigmentation, a protective measureagainst radiation. Below the basal cell layer lies the complex dermoepidermal junction, which constitutes an anatomic functional unit. The junction serves the three functions of dermal-epidermal adherence, mechanical support for the epidermis, the control of the passageof cells and some large molecules acrossthe junction'

16

OFCOSMETICS A HANDBOOK

The barrier function of the junction can be consideredin terms of three species,small molecules,large moleculesand cells. There is no evidencethat the junction significantlyinhibits the passageof water, electrolytes,and other low molecularweight materials. B. The Dermis region The dermis, as indicatedin Fig. 2-1, is the non-descriptive fatty region- It lying in betweenthe epidermisand the subcutaneous consistsmainly of the densenetwork of structuralprotein fibres i.e. collagen, reticulum and elastin, embeddedin the semigel matrix of 'ground substances'. It is about 0.2 to 0'3 cm mucopolysaccharidic thick. The elasticityof skin is due to the networkor gel structureof the cells. It also consistsof the epidermisand reticularlayer,which is the maiir structuralbody of the skin. Beneaththe dermis,the fibrous tissue tissue. On opensout and mergeswith the fat containingsubcirtaneous ridges or into is formed the other hand, the upper layer of the dermis vessels, blood papillae projecting into the epidermis,which contains the into lymphatics,and nerve endings. Only the nerve fibres reach germinativezoneof the epidermis. C. SubcutaneousTissue tissue,known as the This layer consistsof a sheetof fat-richareol.ar structures. The underlying superficial fascia,attachingthe dermisto the veins are present layer is quite elastic. Large arteriesand subcutaneous only in the superficialregion. The rest of the portion containsa limited numberof capillariesand novital organs. D. Skin Appendages sebaceous with hair follicles and associated The skin is interspersed types of two regions glandsand in specif,rc glands,like pilosebaceous are these sweat glands, eccrine and apocrineglands. Collectively, referredto as the skin appendages. Hair follicles are distributedover the entireskin surfaceexceptsoles of the feet, the palm of the hand,the red portion of the lips, and selected portion of the sex organs. It consistsof concentriclayersof cellularand non-cellularcomponentsand is placed at an angle. Smooth muscle fibres, arrectores pilorum, attach the hair to the dermal connective tissues. The hair shaft is formed by a processof cellular division and migration of the cells similar to that which forms the stratumcorneum. Hairs are thus formed of keratinizedcells compactedtogetherinto plates and scales.

ch-2 THESKIN

17

gland Each hair follicle is associatedwith one or more sebaceous which are referred as the acid mantle of the skin. ln some selected region of the skin theseexist in the absenceof the hair follicle. Their size varies from regionto region (200 to 2000 pm) and is highestin nose. It secretesoily material,sebum,which lubricatesthe skin and stratumcorneuinand also maintainsthe pH of the skin at 5' (l) Eccrine sweatglands : Eccrineglandsor salty sweatglandsare distributedover the surfaceof the body. They consistof simple,coiled tube as shown in Fig.2.l and have a density from 100 to 200 glandsper cm2 of the body surfacedependingon the body region. The secretionis dilute aqueoussolutionof salt and someother minor componentsand it has a pH of about 5. The principalfunctionof the gland is heatcontrol" It secretesdilute aqueoussolutionof salt and due to this it regulatesthe body temperature. (2) Apocrine glands : Apocrine glands are presentonly in the selectedregion of the body viz. axillae (armpits),in anogenitalregion and aroundthe nipples. They are ten times largerthan eccrineglands containingprotein,lipoprotein,lipids and a milky substance and secretes diverseproteins. The secretionis mainly stimulateddue to emotional stressand sexualstimulation. glands are responsiblefor the (3) Sebaceousglands : Sebaceous secretionof sebum,which constitutesthe majority of the fatty layer glandsare found in various coveringthe skin and hair. The sebaceous partr ofthe body like face,shoulders,upperchestand scalp,but are not found on the palmsand soles. They are available500-1000per square centimetre. (4) Hair : The hair shaft is basically the product of synthesized proteinfollowing cell division at the root of hair follicle. The number of hair per unit area varies at different parts of the body. The rate of growthalsovariesfrom siteto siteand variesbetween0.2 to 0'4 mm per day. Common Disordersof the Skin As we mentionedearlierthat cosmeticsare basicallyfor beautification and masking,preventionor overcomingcommon disorders,it is to havea knowledgeof commondisordersof the skin. Design npcessary and applicationof any skin cosmeticswill be guidedby the natureand siteof disorders.Commondisordersof skin can be classifiedas follows:

l8


A.' Pigmentary Disorders This is due to disorder in pigmentation on the skin and it can be of hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation in nature. (1) Hyperpigmentation : This is the disorder due to abnormal pigmentation which occurs on a small area of the skin, mainly in Caucasians. This disorder is due to an increased local synthesis of melanin in the epidermis. This can be further stimulated by exposureto UV or X-irradiation. Various conditions are termed as ephelides, lentigens, moles, ochronosis. (2) Hypopigmentation : Synthesis of lesser amount of melanin in part of skin can cause hypopigmentation, which is called vitiligo, a patchy depigmentation of the skin afflicting a considerable number of non-Caucasians. It can also occur in Caucasians. A decreaseor total absenceof melanocytes in the depigmented areas has been observed. B. Disorders of the Sebaceousand Sweat Glands Disorders or malfunctions of sebaceousand sweat glands can cause various skin disorders like acne, prickly heat, etc. Acne like pimples, blackheads,whiteheads and boils are caused by the disorders of hair follicles and sebaceousglands and mostly occur in face, neck and upper portion of chest and back. Miliaria, most common of which is prickly heat or strophus, is caused by the disorder of sweat glands and commonly occurs in neck and large areas of the skin. C. Skin Scaling Disorders Skin scaling can be due to dandruff and psoriasis. (1) Psoriasis : This is a skin disease characterized by the formation of scaly red patches, particularly on the extensor surfaces of the body, mainly elbows and knees. The site is covered with silvery scaleswhich on removal show a small bleeding point. (2) Dandruff: This is characterizedby flaking of stratum corneum and mostly occurs on scalp. The reason suggestedfor this condition can be microbial infection, immunological or normal disorder at the surface of stratum comeum. (3) Effects of aging on skin : Aging affects the characters and functions of the skin. Cosmetics are used to partially repair, mask or overcome such changes. Various changescaused by aging are thinning of epidermis making older people more prone to injury and skin infec-

Ch-2 THE SKIN

19

tion, reducing the sensitivity of the immune system causing further skin damage and infection, change in colour, lower melanin level makes it more sensitive to sun exposure,dry and scaly skin due to less secretion, cold skin due to low blood supply, decreasein elasticity of the skin and occurrenceof wrinkles. Skin : Its Nutrition and Care To ensure the maintenanceof normal condition of skin various steps practices should be adopted. They include cleansing, freshening or or toning, moisturising, nourishing and protecting the skin. For aging skin further care is required for overcoming the changesthat have occurred or for masking the skin characters" Advent of more and more knowledge about skin physiology and biochemistry has given the cosmetic manufactuiers more avenues for better skin care. Several creams are available for specific functions, overcoming specific disorder of skin in special cases. Nutrients of skin Various substancesare essentialfor maintenance of normal condition and function of skin. Some of these are systemically supplied and others are synthesizedby various mechanisms in the skin from raw materials. These include: (1) Proteins : Proteins are major componentssynthesizedin epidermis and hair follicle from amino acids. The amino acids are supplied by the blood by the breakdown of the dietary proteins at the digestive systgms. (2) Lipids : Lipid is another important substancesynthesizedin the skin by the sebaceousglands in the epidermis. Sebum is lipid secreted from the sebaceousglands and is made from mainly fatty acids' Lipids produced at the epidermis have a role in barrier function and structural integrity of the stratum corneum, and are made from acetate, amino acids, long chain fatty acids and carbohydrates. (3) Melanin : Melanin is synthesized from the amino acid tyrosin and is responsible for pigmentation at the skin. (4) Energy supply substances : The synthesis of proteins, lipids and melanin requires the supply of energy at the skin cells and is made available by energy processeslike oxidative phosphorylation of glucose or other monosaccharides. (5) Water : This is most important for normal function of the skin and movement of other nourishing substancesand metabolites.


20

(6) Others : Apart from the above substatpes various other substances like protein hormones, steroid hormones, corticosteroids and vitamins are also essential for normal maintenance of the skin. The above substancesare required to be supplied as skin preparations if they are not available through normal systemic process. Supply of these nourishing substancesrequires penetration through skin to reach the proper site. It is very important for the designer to ensure the cutaneouspermeation ofany such substances.The percutaneous permeation of amy chemical entity will depend on various factors like: (a) Physico-chemical properties and concentration of the permeant (b) Composition and characteristicsof the vehicle (c) Condition of the skin For poorly penetrable substances,some additive can be incorporated to enhance the penetration of the permeants. 'These are called 'Penetration Enhancers'. Various substancesare used as penetration enhancers like dimethyl formamide (DMF), dimethyl sulphoxide (DMSO), ozone, alcohols and surfactants. Their funtions are attributed to their role to temporarily change the barrier systems of the skin by various mechanisms. Skin care preparations Various products are available and marketed for the care of skin. They are used for beautifrcation, skin care, masking or repairing of skin defects, etc. (1) (2) (3) (4)

Powders, face powders, compacts etc. Skin colorants like lipstick, rouge, eye mascaraetc. Various creams for care of skin. Sunscreenpreparationsfor skin protection.

CHAPTER-3

Powders and ComPacts and comPreParations is Powders women bY onlY not care, and bodY as known also are which rowders, MedicomPacts' and [ace Powders

"fl.T:fl:::::#'T:ffi:i:'*1

powdersusedfor specificpurposes' skin care preparationsin Fundamentallypowders diffpr from liquid theirphysicalcharacteristicsandtheirmostimportantcosmeticpropertiesaredeterminedexactlybythesecharacteristics.Veryfineparticle p"' unit weight which covers a large size produceslarge t"tfu"" -"u light dispersion' ,urf*" areaof the body and resulis in strong characteristics: The powdersshouldhavethe following power and so hide skin covering (l) The powdermust have good blemishes. to the skin and not blow off easily' '12; t, must adhereperfectly a few minutes to avoid (3) It must not be completely dissipatedin re-Powdering. preferably of a matt or (a) The finish given to the skin must be Peach-likecharacter' eliminated' (5) Shine on or aroundthe nosemust be completely (6) 'the Powdermust be absorbent' slip to enablethe powder to spreadon 1Zi fn"r" must be sufficient a blotchy effect' the skin by the puff withoui producing be such that a clown-like (8) The constituentsof the powder must be rather towards effect is impo'siUte' The preferenceshould one of transParency' Preparations Raw Materials for Powdersand Allied of powders is the The primary considerationin the manufacture 2l

Ch-3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

22

A HANDBooKoF coSMETIcS

selectionof proper raw materials. euality of the basic ingredientsis very important to achieve the intendedquality of the finished products and the effect to be obtained from the products. so, the quality of the raw materialsplays an important role in the ultirnate powder ro.-ut"tion. The knowledgeof variousraw materialsand their characters, role. shouldbe well known beforejudicious selectionof materials. The main substancesused to impart all the necessaryqualities are kaolin, zinc oxide, zinc stearate,titanium'dioxide, calcium carbonate, magnesiumcarbonate,purified talc (talcum), magnesiumstearateetc. Apart from the above, various colours and perfumesare also used to impart intendedcolour shadeand odour. The raw materialsto be usedfor manufacturingpowder shouldbe of good quality:(1) The materials should not be hbrd. If the materialsare crystals in nature they must not have any sharp edges or points. Thesecan damagethe skin. (2) Solubility of the materialsin water and fat mixture must be nil or least. (3) The materialsmustbe non-i*itatingandnon-toxicto the skin. (a) The materialsmust be chemicallyneutral and should not interact with each other. The raw materialsgenerallyused in manufacturingof variouspowdersare classifiedand discussedaccordingto their functions:(l) Materials imparting covering character , (2) Materials imparting adhesioncharacter (3) Materials imparting slip and softness (4) Materials imparting absorbencycharacters (5) Materials imparting peach-likefinish (6) Frosted-lookmaterials (7) Colouringsubstances (8) Perfumes All the materials are not required for every preparation. According to the need and purposeof the productraw materialsare selected. Some of the items are essentialfor every preparationsuch as covering materials, absorbents, adhesives,slips. (l) Materials for imparting covering character : One important characterexpectedfrom the materialsused in powders,particularly face

23

powders,is the ability to cover small skin imperfections,enlargedpores, etc. They should be in finely powderedform. Generally,the covering power per unit weight is stronger if the specific surface area of the powder is higher i.e. the particlesare finer. The efficiency of the covering agent can dependon the medium in which it is dispe?sed. Covering power is betteron dry skin than moist skin. Titanium dioxide is the bestcoveringagent. It is widely usedin facepowders. covering power of titaniumdioxide is 1.6 times more than the zinc oxide on dry ikin and 2.5 times more on moist and greasy skin. It is mostly propertiesare, however,inferior to physiologicallyinert. Its sunscreen zinc oxide. Zinc oxide is also a very good coveringagent.t,Thoughfiner particles have hetter covering power, but covering ptrwer of zinc oxide particlesdiminishesif the particle size is below 0'25 pm. In moist invironmentcoveringpowerof zinc oxide is 37Yoof that of dry powder and much lessin oily environment.Zinc oxide hasvery goodsunscreen propertiesas it has a protectiveeffectagainstultravioletrays. Kaolin, zinc stearate,magnesiumstearateand rice starch are other usedas coveringagents. However,they are not as good as substances titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. But combinationof the abovematerials, in different proportions,can be used to make productsof varying coveringability. (2) Materials imparting adhesion character : trpe5p...-5g.l0.stancss impart adhesioncharacter. Not only to the skin surfacebut also to the This iowder puff, which facilitates taking powder from its container. characteris essentialto cling the powder to the face or other skin surface. The materialsprimarily used for imparting adhesivecharactersare rnetal soapsprimarily zinc stearateand magnesiumstearate,talc, magnesium and calciumsaltsof myristic-acid. ' Magnesiumstearatehas better adhesiveproperty than zinc stearate and is more preferred in face powders. But zinc stearateis more predominantlyused in talcum powders. Super quality magnesiumand zinc stearatesare availablewith excellentcolour, texture and minimum of odour. 'Ihey also give a velvety softnessto the product^ As they are waterproof,they maintain the complexion intact in inclementweather. in facepowders. Magnesiumstearateis used3-10%s are also available for use for the calciurn and of lithium Stearates has also got good coverparticular, in stearate, Lithium sam.epurpose" texture. flufff ing propertiesand

24

A HANDBooKoF cosMETrcs

Magnesium and calcium salts of myristic acid are also used for their adhesion properties. Magnesium myristate has better adhesion character and a better texture. Cosmetic quality talc, which is a purified hydrated nragnesium silicate has adhesion properties. Though it is available in various corrntries, Italian product is the best and used for both face powders and body powders. The adhesion character of the powders can be increasedby incorporating l-2%o cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, petrolatum, lanolin or similar fats.


25

are colloidal kaolin, starch, bentonite, precipitated chalk (calcium carbonate), magnesium carbonate' colloidal kaolin is a fine, soft, white powder. It has a good absorbent capacity for aqueous and fatty substancesand good covering power also. It is non-toxic and non-irritating and inert. It has less slip property. Bentonite is mainly aluminium silicate and fine grey whitish powder. It has extraordinary swelling power and can swell upto 12 times of its own volume. Its use in cosmetics is comparatively less'

(3) Materials imparting slip and softneis : Slip is rhe quality of easy spreading and application of powder to produce a characteristic smooth feeling on the skin. This character is mainly obtained by using talc, zinc and magnesium stearates,and aluminium hydrosilicate. Talc is purified hydrated magnesiurn silicate (3MgO, 4SiO2, H2O). The proportion of Mg and Si can vary. Talc is produced by different countries but Italian, French and some lndian varieties are of very good quality and most suitable for powders specifically face powders. Sometimes talc contains pathogenic spores, particularly tetanus, so properly sterilized products are used in powder preparations. Talc is distinguished by its great softnessand slip and is almost neutral if adequately purified. It is not to be used in open skin as in wounds it can cause talcum granuomae. Talc cannot absorb any water. ,Alurninium hydrosilicate is a valuable basic material for powders It is smooth and fatty. It should be prepared properly by trehting with acid, washing with water and then dried. It also has certain cooling effect. It absorbs fatty secretions and small amounts of water. lt is completely non-toxic. Ofher substancesused for softnessand slip are zinc stearate,magnesium stearate,zinc undecanate,magnesiumundecanate. The undecanates, in particular, are soft and have excellent slip but are expensive. properly purified stearatesare extensively used. (4) Materials imparting absorbency characters : Powders should have ability to eliminate shiny skin in certain facial areas by absorbing sebaceoussecretions and perspiration. This character can be imparted by incorporating material with high absorptive capacity in face powders, dusting powders, baby powders, deodorant powders, foot powders etc. Face powders should also have a certain absorbency to prevent srnudging of make-up by perspiration The rnaterialswhich impart this property

preferred less than magnesium carbonate. various starches,like rice, wheat, corn, potato etc.,are comparatively less used nowadays. It has good moisture absorbing and swelling ability. It produces a sticky character but is completely non-toxic.

to get better effect.

not be used in excessof 30 Per cent.

aluminiurn,hronz*. (7) Colourimg substances : These are substancesmainly used ill Various face powders and cornpastsbut not in dusting or baby powders' used. are inorganic and organic pigments and certified organic lakes

26


Various synthetic or natural inorganic pigments used are iron oxides for yellows, reds, and brov,,nsand ultramarine for green and blue. ;Toxic lead and arsenic compounds are not used. Organic lakes and pigments produce better brilliance but should be selected from certified dyes. The organic'pigments must not bleed in oil or water and should be light-fast. phoice of colour is mainly users' taste. Various colours with various shadesare used to fulfil the satisfaction ofthe users. The colour of the thin film of the pigment may be different from the colour effect given by the powder viewed in bulk. (8) Perfumes : rrPerfume is an essential component of powders. Users put more importance to perfume. But it should not be over emphasized at the time of manufacturing. Normally the products are perfumed lightly, particularly face powders and compacts. The odour must be fragrant and pleasant.I Various perfumes or fragrance which are used, either flowery fragrance or synthetic odour. Selection of proper fra.grance is very vital for the products. Sometime combination of fragrances gives a better appeal. Compatibility of perfume with other constituents of the formulation -is to be checked properly before use. Constituents of powder preparation may change the character of fragrance. POWDER PRODUCTS (1) FACE POWDERS Face powder is an indispensable article of a lady's cosmetic range. From the mask-like covering in ancient times to the natural look which is the choice of the presentday, face powders have been and still rernain one of the basics of the cosmetic industry. A great deal of changes have taken place in face powder fashion during the last couple of decades. Tinted, shiny, enhanced by our modern cosmetics, the woman of today is able, with only modest effort, to be more attractive than she has ever been in the past. A face powder is basically a cosmetic product which has as its prime function the ability to complement skin colour by imparting a velvet finish to it. A good faie powder should produce a smooth t-rnishto the facial skin, masking visible imperf'ectionsof the face and shine due to moisture or grease from perspiration or secretion of sebaceousand sweat glands or fron preparations used on the skin. The powder must produce a

Ch.3 POWDERSAND COMPACTS

27

lasting effect, so that frequentapplicationis unnecessary.The preparation should make the face pleasantto look and touch. The degreeof opacity can vary from opaque, in case of clown make-up,to almost transparent.It must adhereto the skin and be reasonablyresistantto the mixed secretions of the skin. since no singlematerialcan haveall the'requiredpropertiesdesired in a facepowder,a mixture of different substancesis norrnallyemployed to get the following essentialcharacteristic's of a good product(a) Covering power : The ability to mask skin imperfectionssuch as skin shine,enlargedporesand minor blemishes. (b) Slip : The characterof spreadingover the skin without dragging, and giving the characteristic of smoothfeeling. (c) Adhesiveness : The ability to cling to the face. (d) Absorbency : The ability to absorbskin perspirarionand oily secretionwithout showingthe effectof suchabsorption. (e) Bloom : The ability to imparta velvety,peach-likefinish to the face skin. (f) Colouring : To imparta coloureffectaccordingto the need. (g) Perfuming : To produce a pleasantodour. The proportion of variousingredientsusedcan be alteredto have slight variation in the properties of the powder and their effect, but, as a practice, f-acepowders are classified in to three categories dependingon the natureofthe skin and correspondingly cover_ ing ability requiredfrom the products. (i) Light type (ii) Mediumtype (iii) Heavytype Skin to be powderedcan be classifiedinto three categories:dry, normal or moderatelyoily, and very oily. (i) Light type : Dry skin requireslight powder, a powder of slight covering power as dry skin secretesvirtually no oil and little moisture.fhey normally contain large quantity of talc. (ii) Medium type : Medium powders,having comparativelyhigher coveringpower,are appliedto normal or moderatelyoily skins, which are shinier due to skin secretions. They contain some_ what lessertalc and balancedby zinc oxide. (iii) Heavy type : Heavy powdershave more coveringpower and are used for extremelyoily skins which have a greatdeal of shine

28


and thus require great covering power. They normally contain still lower quantity of talc and high quality of zinc oxide. General preparation : The preparationof powdersis simple as it is simply a matter of dry mixing of finely powderedmaterials. Add the perfume with part of the absorbentmaterialslike calcium carbonateor with magnesiumcarbonateand keep it aside for some time. Mix the colour with part of the talc properly and add the other powdersand then the perfume mixture. Mix and sieve the powder mixture using a silk mesh or an old washednylon cloth. Formulae of Face Powders POWDER WITH REDUCING COVERING POWER Forihula I

Zinc stearate Zinc oxide I Calcium carbonate(light) ,Talc Titanium dioxide . Magnesiumcarbonate(light) Colour Perfttme

5.0 gm 10.0gm 20.0 gm 57.3gm 2.0 gm 5.0 gm 0.2 gm 0.5 gm

LIGHT POWDER Formula2 Talc Kaolin Calcium carbonate(light) Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Magnesiumcarbonate Colour Perfume

63.0 gm 20.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 1.0 gm 0.5 gm 0.5 gm

3 Formula Zinc stearate Zinc oxide Calcium carbonate(light) Talc Colour Perfume

7.0 gm 10.0gm 20.0 gm 62.3 gm 0.3 gm 0.4 gm

29


Formuh4 79.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 10.3gm 0.3 gm 0.7-gm

Talc Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Rice starch Colour Perfume MEDIUMPOWDER Formula5 Talc Kaolin Calcium carbonate(light) Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Magnesiumcarbonate Colour Perfume


Formula6 5.0 gm 15.0gm 2.0 gm 15.0gm 15.0gm 47.2 gm 0.3 gm 0.5 gm

Zinc stearate Zinc oxide Titaniumdioxide Precipitatedchalk Rice starch Talc Colour r Perfume Fo r m u l a 7

Zinc stearate Zinc oxide Calcium carbonate Talc Colour Perfume

15.0gm 17.5gm 20.0 gm 47.0 gm 0.2 gm 0.3 gm

HEAVY POWDER For m ula8 Magnesium stearate Kaolin (light) Zinc oxide

5 . 0gm 20.0gm l 5 . 0 gm


30 Calcium carbonate(light) Talc Colour Perfume

,

39.0 gm 20.0 gm 0.5 gm 0.5 gm

For m ula 9

Titanium dioxide Zinc oxide Magnesiumstearate Calciumcarbonate(light) Kaolin (light) Talc Colour, Perfume

5.0 gm 15.0gm 5.0 gm 15.0gm 25.0 gm 34.0 gm 0.4 gm 0.6 gm

(2) COII{PACT FACE POWDER


3l

(a) Dry binders : They are metallic stearate-slike zinc stearate, stearate'The use ofdry binders needs increasedpressurefor magnesium firm compacting. and (b) Oil binders : Oils such as mineral oil, isopropyl myristate' commaking for agents lanolin derivatives are widely used as binding pact powders.

prevent pact powders. A preservative is essential in gum medium to rnicrobiological growth in the preparations' (d) Water-repellant binders : These are widely used in compact lanolin fa"" io*d"rs and include mineral oil, various fatty esters, and aid in to derivatives in combination with a considerableamount of water agent may the formation of a smooth, solidly pressedcake' A wetting throughout also be incorporatedto help to uniformly distribute moisture the powder.

Methods of PreParation

I B asi cal l ythreem et hods. of pr epar at ionof com pact f acepowder sar e adopted.

t s int lin g a g e n ts :T h e b i n c l e rs u s e d i n compactpow dersareseveral i n nurnber'. "l'he1'can be ciassified into five types-(a) DrY trit'rdi:rs (b) {)i1 bindq:rs qc) Water-soluble binders binders (cl) Vy'nter-rePellant ie) kirnulsi'llnbinders

(l )W etmetho d: lnt hism et hodbasicm at er ials, colour sand and airUinieis are kneaded into a paste with water, pressed into moulds other and cracks produce can it as dried slowly. It is not much used lbults.

anolamine stearate with lanolin and cetyl alcohol'

33 \

32


(3) Damp method : In this method the base powder, colour and perfume are mixed uniformly. The mixture is then wetted down with liquid binders like aqueousmucilagesor mucin rich o/w emulsion binders and blended until the proper plasticity of the mass is attaine(. The powder is then screenedan/ compressedby machineand dried ht elevatedtemperature. This method is a widely acceptedmethod and is usedcommercially. FORMULAE OF SOME BINDERS Formula l0

Gum Arabic Glycerol Water Preservative

1.0 gm 5.0 gm 94.0 gm q.s.

Formulall Gum tragacanth Glycerol monostearate Mineral oil Sorbitol Water Preservative

2.0 gm 6.0 gm 4.0 gm 5.0 gm 83.0 gm 'q.s

Formula12 Gum tragacanth Glucose Water Preservative Formula13 Mineral oil Polyoxyethylenestearate Water Preservative

2.0 gm 5.0 gm 93.0 gm q.s. 1.0 gm 2.0 gm 97.0 gm q.s.

Formulae of Conpact Face Powders Apart from the formulae mentionedin face powders,which can be convertedto compactby using suitablebinder, the following additional formulae are suggested. As the amount of binder, colour and perfume will vary accordingto need,they are not mentionedin specific amount.

COMPACTS Ch-3 POWDERS AND

Formulr l4

Talc Kaolin Titanium dioxide Zinc stearate Colour Binder Perfume Formule 15

Talc Calcium carbonate Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Colour Binder Perfume Formulr16 Talc Kaolin Chalk, PreciPitated Titanium dioxide Zinc stearate Colour Binder Perfume Formula17 Talc Kaolin Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Magnesiumcarbonate Colour Binder Perfume Formuhl8 Talc Mica Titanium dioxide or mica

69.0 gm 18.0gm t.0 gm 5.0 gm q.s.. q.s.' q.s. 79.0 gm 9.0 gm 7.0 gm 5.0 gm q.s q.s. q.s. 60.0 gm 12.0gm 12.0gm 12.0gm 4.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s. 62.0 gm ll.0 gm 14.0gm 5.0 gm 8.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

70.0gm 20.0gm 10.0gm

35 34


Colour Binder Perfume

q.s. q.s. q.s. Formula"lg

Talc Syntheticpeari Titanium dioxide Zinc stearate Colour Binder Perfume

54.0 gm 10.0gm 30.0 gm 6.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

(3) BODY POWDERS Amongst the various cosmetics, body powder is one of the widely consumed cosmetic preparations. Body powders are also known as talcum powders or dusting powders. They are used for multiple purposes. The main use of body powders or talcum powders is to absorb moisture or perspiration specifically after bathing particularly in warmer countries. These also provide good slip, a cooring effect and efficient lubrication, and prevent i'itation of skin due to chafing. The very fine particie size of these covers cause a rarge surface ur.u p". unit weight and can cover a large body area which results in strong -light dispersion and therefore visual covering of the skin underneath. The surface covered by the powders is much more than the surface uncovered which leads to a cooling effect if the ingredients of the powder have good heat conductivity. These fine powder particles with light weight'adhere to the skin by the stickiness of the fat film. Noimally,lhey contain covering material, adhesives, absorbency material, slip, antiseptics and

perfumes.

Body powdersconsistmainry of talc, with smail proportionsof a metallic stearate,like zinc stearate,aluminium stearate,etc., and precipitated calcium carbonate(chrilk) or magnesiumcarbonate(right). For antiseptic action boric acid, chlorohexidinediacetate,bithionll ur" usedto suppressproliferationof microorganisms responsiblefor"t". devel: opment of perspiration odour. Talcum powders containing antiseptic substances are also usedfor prickly heatand fungusinfectiois. Absorbencycharacteristicis impartedby the inclusion of kaolin, magnesiumcarbonate,precipitatedchalk and starch. Slip will be conferred by talc, zinc stearate. The presenceof kaorin, zinc oxide or

AND COMPACTS Ch.3 POWDERS characteristic' contributes to adhesive magnesium stearate

Colour is not

o."--din bodY Powders' ploperly and keep it GeneralPreParations with oil Mix the perfume 'nug"&iu'n -carbonate

i"i*,"::1, tt' iT'""'$"1$1: iderorsometime''#,,';;;; as m *i*: carbonate to thls the perfumed magneslum and Pack it in contatners' BODY POWDER FORMULAE OF Formula20

75.0 gm 10.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 4.0 gm 0.3 gm 0.7 gm

Talc

c6ttoiaAkaolin Colloidal silica Magnesium carbonate Aluminium steafate Boric acid Perfume Formula2l Talc Calcium carbonate ,Zinc stearate Boric acid Perfume oil Formula22 Satinex Talc carbonate (light) ri"gn..iut Boric acid

Perfumeoil Formula23 Zinc stearate oxide Zinc "f"rug"tti urn carbonate(li ght) Tale Perfume Formula24 Zinc oxide (light) Cui"i"* carbonate


0.3gn 0'7 gm 5'0 gm 5.0 gm 15'0 gm 74.5 gm 0'5 gm 4.0 gm 8.0 gm

36

A HANDB@K OF COSMETICS

Talc Perfume

87.5 gm 0.5 gm

DEODORANTPO}VDERS Formulr 25 Zinc oxide 5.0 gm Zinc stearate 5.0 gm Chlorhexidinediacetate 0.3 gm Calcium carbonate(light) 10.0gm Talc 79.3 gm Perfume 0.4 gm Formula26 Zinc oxide Zinc stearate Bithional Calciumcarbonate(light) Talc Perfume

10.0gm 5.0 gm 0.5 gm 5.0 gm 79.2 gm 0.3 gm

BABY POWDERS Formula22

Talc Magnesiurnstearate r Magnesiumcarbonate(light) Boric acid Perfumeoil

87.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 2.5 gm 0.5 gm

Formula2t Talc Kaolin Magnesiumstearate Boric acid Satinex Perfumeoil

70.0 gm 20.0 gm 4.0 gm 2.5 gm 3.0 gm 0.5 gm

Talc Kaolin Boric acid Satinex { Perfumeoil

Formula 29

84.0 gm 10.0gm 3.5 gm 2.0 gm 0.5 gm

37

(.h.3 POWDERS AND COMPACTS MEDICATED DUSTING POWDERS Formule 30

SodiumproPanedioate7 Talc Boric acid

20.0gm 78.0gm 2.0 gm

FOOT POWDERS Formulr 3l

Boric acid Kaolin Talc Menthol Formule 32

Boric acid Starch Talc

10.0gm 44.5 gm 45.0 gm 0.5 gm I1.0 gm 20.0 gm 69.0 gm z

Evrluation of variouspowder productsparticularly Evaluationand assessment judge the quality of the loose face powders,compactsare essentialto at differentlevels.onthe finishedproducts. Intensivetestingsare done include.tests q""iiry of the products. Tests tuti b" thorough and must apparentdensity'moisturecontent'limits ilipunitf" size,abrasiveness' for colour, etc. extensiveand Apart from the common test of contentdetermination' contro|ledstabilitytestarecarriedouttodeterminethattheformulated time during shelfproJuct will remain stable for an extendedperiod of stability test can be life. For this purpose' if necessary,accelerated for face powdersand carriedout. other testswhich are doneparticularly compactsthe are the followingdetermine (1) Shadc control and lighting : This is to control and and with the standardthe variation of colour shadeiom batch to batch Prop.rtestistobedonetopreventvariationinshades'Onesuch of the body of the powder with methodis comparisonof tn. appearance a white paper backa standardwhen it is spreadout *a flattened on of the sample comparison is evaluation ground. The otheiln"iftod of be applied should Powders undertone. with the standardby skin tone or the final is This pack' finished for bt ;; samepuff tlat is to be used colour for used is lighting j,rOJ"rn"n for the shade test' Artificial dvaluation.

38

A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

(2) Dispersion of colour': Colour should be homogeneouslydistributed in the powder base. There should not be segregationor bleeding of colour. This can be tested by spreading the powder on a white paper and checking it with a magnifoing glass. (3) Pay-off : The pay-off character,i.e., adhesion with the puff, of a compact or pressed powder should be tested on the skin. High pressure will make the cake so hard that the poryder will not rub off the cake easily enough and thus there will be insufficient adhesion of the material to the puff. Too low pressure will make the cake soft and thus have a tendenoy to crumble and break. (4) Pressure testing : Pressure applied to compact powder should be uniform to prevent air pocket and thus breaking or cracking. Uniformity of the hardness can be tested by penetrometer. Reading on hardness is checked, at various points of compact tablet to see the uniformity of hardness. (5) Breakage test : This is carried out by dropping the compact tablet of powder on a wooden surface several times from a height of 8 to 10 inches and checking the breakage or clipping of the compact. If the cake is unbroken it is indication of the resistance asainst travel and normal handling. (6) Flow property : This is very important, particularly for body powders as they should come out easily from the containelfor easy application. This can be studied by measuring angle of repose of powder product by allowing to fall on a plate from a funnel and measuring the height and radius of heap formed. Also, the powder may be allowed to fall from a funnel and noting the time taken. (7) Particle size and abrasiveness : Particle size can be determined by microscope, sieve analysis or by using sophisticated instruments and techniques. Abrasiveness can be studied by rubbing the powders on a smooth surf'ace and then studying the effect on the surface using microscope. (8) Moisture content and limits for colour : These can be estimated by using suitable analytical methods.

CHAPTER-4

Skin Colorants an ancientpractice Colouring skin, particularly skin of face and lips' is the use of.such days' present In going Uit to irehistoric period' texture' lustre colours' of shaded of iroAi.t, has increasedand choice from the observed be can This ir"ve been changedand becomewider' to colours of shades of fact that lipsticls are marketed in hundreds satisff the demandsof women" Apartfromnormaldailylife,skincolorantsarealsousedfordrama' ci."us,danceetc'Thepresentchapterwillbasicallydiscusstwospecific skin colorants. (1) LiPsticks (2) Rouge are The skin colorantsare also called as'Beauty Aids'but-they is colorants skin of differentfrom other cosmetics. The sole purpose cosother whereas ;il;;;,i"t of appearancefor enhancedattractiveness' or promotion of the meticshave other specific functionsof maintenance skin health along with or without decorativefunctions' skin' Decorative Skin colorantsor beautyaids must not damagethe of aging' preparationsare used to tride small blemishesor symptoms demonstrate and :fhay ur. also usedto createa well-groomedappearanpe to attract opposite the desireto impressupon others. They are applied as psychological' sexandto be noticedupon. The motivescan be termed pleasantlyfragrant' Manufacturerstry to make these as decorative, main activeingredicoloured,non-tackyand harmlessas possible' The are also essentialto ent in such preparationsis dye but oiher materials and auxiliary hold the dyainlhe preparationsand for easeof application effects. (l) LIPSTICKS usedby women' Lipsticks,also termedas lip cosmetics,are widely that they decades of couple last f ,iprtrcf.shave become,o popul"t in the

40


cosmetic-product' Its are now probably usedmore than any other single flooded b" gauged from the fact that market has been popularity of productswith hundredsof shades' ,riift pf"nty""n matter in a base Lipsticks are basically dispersions of colouring waxei suitably perfulned consistingof a suitableUienaof oils, fats, and in a'case' n"uo-ur"d,moulded in the form of a stick and enclosed glossy and moist -J Lipstick is usedto impart an attractivecolour' and the to the lips, accentuatingtheir good points and disguising lips can be made to "pp"riun"" O""l*,t. By properiy applying a iipstick broader look as broad lips' An look as nalrow or narrow^lipsmay be changedto the apparent facial change ini"ffig"ntly applied lipstick can totally lips which chapp-ing.of and upp""i"""". It'also helpsto preventcracking also lipsticks for used base can lead to the Uacteiial infection' The producesan emollient action' LipskinSkinofthelipsischaracterizedbyanexceptionallythin developedand the corneal layer. The stratumlerminativum is strongly just below the surface' rlood content are very much glands ls but salivary of the lips' moisture the ra maintain entirely almost are lips sparsely,the to dry tends layer comeal free from fat. In very cold or dry weatherthe very is lips ofthe layer out and producecracled lips' Sincethe corneal on applied substances thin, and further, crackedin ary condition' alien is This germinativum' the lips can quite easily penetrateto-the stratum ingrediand selecting ;l*"i, to be kept in mind while making lipsticks ents for it. characteristics: Characters A lipstick should have the following gloss and last for (l) It should cover the lips adequatelywith some long time. (2) It should make the iiPs soft' being brittle and (3) The film must adherefirmly to the lips without tackY. (4) It shouldhave a good degreeof indelibility' without any (5) It should have high retention of colow intensity changein shade' be non-drying' (6) It shouldbe completelyfree from grittinessand (7) It should be non-initating to the skin of lips'

('h..

SKIN COLORANTS

4l

(E) It shouldhave a desirabledegreeofplasticity'

(e) It shouldhave a pleasantodour and flavour' have the following Apart from the above, a lipstick should also llorage characteristics:( l) A smoothand shinYaPpearance' (2) Freedomfrom bloom or sweating' of (3) A suitable degree of firmness during reasonablevariations climatic temPerature' (4) Retain plasticity without any tendencyto dry out or crumble'

.,lltT'oli.ti# mainrv rhestick composition frltTilt'*:T::

:d melting Point and viscositY' The between36oC to 38'C with liPs rf the liPstick must have a melting between55"C to 75oC PreferablY |andexPosureto hot climates' 'l'he basic raw materials required for formulating lipsticks can be classifiedas(l) Wax mixture (2) Oil mixture (3) Bromo mixture (4) Colours fragrances,surfactantsand other additives (5) Preservatives, (l) Waxes thl characGloss and hardnessof lipsticks are largely dependent9n the compositionof the wax toristicsand quantityof the waxesused' So' mixtureisofprimeimportance.Bestcharacteristicscanbeobtainedby and adjustingthe mixture of *u*", of different melting points ;*i"; melting " point by incorporatinga sufficient amount of high iinoirn"fting"Various lipsticks' in used are waxy materials l,ii", **' and useful cornponentof (a) White beeswax : It is an-iTpgf* It usefullybinds oils and llpstick basewith *"tting point of 62-64'C' of the total formula' It 10% to high melting point waxesl it is u'ed in 3 mouldedproducts' At of rhrinks on cooling and thus helps preparation and causesthe appearance higher concentrationii producesa dull waxy rticks to crumbleduring use' 65-6.9'Cand is used (b) Candelilla wax : It has a meltingpoint of is very good for ln 5-10%. A mixture of candelilla** "ttd beeswax

42


making lipstick. If candelillawax is used a little in excessthan beeswax the product gets a smooth and glossy appearance. (c) Carnauba wax : It increasesthe melting point of the base and hardens the lipstick. It needs to be used in small amounts' It brings an attractive lustre to the product. It's melting point is 80 to 88"C. (d) Ozokerite wax : It is also mainly used to increasethe melting point of the base. It melts at 60-80"C and is used in 3-l0o/o' If it is used in excess the sticks tend to crumble during application. (e) Ceresin wax : it is also called paraffrn wax or mineral wax. It's melting point is 60-75oC and is used in about 5Yo to increase melting point. (f) Cetyl alcohol and cetostearyl alcohol : These two substances are used in small amounts, in 2-3o/o,in the lipstick for emollient action on the lip skin. The melting points are 45-50"C and 42'45"C respectively. At higher concentration (above 5%) they give a dull appearanceto the lipstick which develops to a 'bloom' on storage. High concentration also leads to crystal formation, on storage,on the surface of the stick"

(2) oils The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. It also acts as a solvent for eosin dyestuffs or as a dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. An ideal rnixture is one which enables the product to spread easily and produces a thin film with good covering power. (a) Castor oil : Castor oil is used in many lipsticks becauseof its good qualities, though nowadays some other oils or solvents are being used. A refined grade castor oil is of good colour and is odourless and tasteless. Castor oil is a very good plasticising agent. An antioxidant is to be added to the castor oil against rancidification though it is not as prone to rancidification aS other vegetable oils like olive oil or almond oil. High viscosity of castor oil makes the dispersion of pigments long stable during the mixing and moulding stages of manufacture. Normaliy, about 40-50% of castor oil is used. But when a higher proportion is used the proporlion of high melting point waxes needs to be ad.iusted to get a high melting point base mixture. (b) Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol and its esters : This alcohol and its esters like acetate, stearate, ricinoleate are also used in lipstick preparation. The acetate has very good solvent prclperty for the eosin dye. But the volatile property of the solvent can lead to smudging of the outline by evaporation from the hotter inner surface and deposition on

t'h 4 liKrNcoLoRANTS

43

lhc cooler edges. The acetate has an unpleasant taste and odour. But tlourate and ricinoleate are lood and non-volatile but their solvent ptopcrty is a little less. (c) Fatty acid alkaylamides : They are non-volatile and have no rrrrgrlcasant taste or odour. They increasethe stability of the lipsticks but do rrot have emollient action. They help in dispersing the pigments. (d) Paraflin oil : It is used in not more than 5To to give a glossy Hpl)caranceafter application. In higher proportion the oil will come off llrc lips and run around the lips. It also acts as lubricant to facilitate rerrrovalof sticks from the moulds after pouring. (c) Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and butyl stearate : llresc are also used to facilitate smooth application. Due to their low rrrrlirce tension they have a good wetting effect on insoluble dyes and pigrncnts,and also act as mutual solvents for oils and waxes. Presence ol hinders is required to incorporate isopropyl myristate, otherwise it trruyseparateout becauseof its low surfacetension. Apart from the waxes and oils, sometime fats are incorporated in the llJrslicksto serve the purpose of giving more body to the film on the lips, rrrroothingthe skin of the lips or softeningit. It also helps in dispersion ol'irrsoluble pigments. The substanceswhich are normally incorporated sle cocoa butter (theobroma oil), hydrogenatedvegetable fats. 'l'hc use of acetoglycerideshas also been recommendedin lipsticks to Irrrprovethixotropic properties of sticks and to maintain constantviscoslly cvcn in higher temperature. They also improve the plasticity of the fl l ttron the l i ps. (l) Rromo Mixture 'l'he bromo mixture is, essentially,a solution of the staining dyestuff Itr n fatty material to enable the dyestuff to remain either wholly or gtnrtinllyin solution. Apart from the fatty rnaterials mentioned earlier, carluin other fatty materials have a specific function as a constituent of hrurno mixture. This is the portion of the product which imparts an Itrrlclible stain as distinct from the opaque film of colour given by Inroluble pigments. As the present-daychoice is the product with high rteining qualities instead of the product whioh covers the lips with a lltlck film of vividly coloured materials, bromo mixture is widely used. 'l'hc dyestuff of bromo mixture, known as bromo acids, consists of fluuresceins,halogenatedfluoresceins and related water insoluble dyes. (l ri gi nal l y the br om o acid nam e was given t o acid eosin, telrnhromofluorescein. Bromo acid colours can be classified broadlv

44


Ch.4 SKIN COLORANTS

45

stain, into two groups,thosewhich are red and give a red or reddish-blue yellowish-pink give pink a to stain. and thosewhich are orange,red and In general,lipstick formulationsare not high stainingtypes,about2-37o of bromoacid is used,normally,in castoroil and butyl stearatemixture.

Also their water solubility character poses problem for formulation. llut when water soluble dyes are converted to the free sulpho acid form, tltoy become water-insoluble, lipophillic and suitable for use as staining dycs.

Other solventsused are tetrahydrofurfurylalcohol and esterslike acetate, stearateand benzoate,glycerol derivatives like glyceryl glyceryl monolaurateand diethyleneglycol monostearate. monostearate, Propyleneglycol, triethyleneglycol and polyethyleneglycol are also usedas suitablecolour solvents.

(b) Insoluble dyestuffs and lake colours : These are the colouring ngentswhich cover the thin layer over the lips. They consist of calcium, hnrium, aluminium and strontium lakes. Calcium and barium lakes prcpared from azotype dyestuffs are also used. These are called lake frttrcrs. These dyestuffs are used in 10-15% depending on the shade and opncity of the film. Aluminium lakes are not usually preferred because ol'lheir lack of opacity, but they can be used in transparentlipsticks.

A typical exampleof bromo mixture is given below: 15 gm Bromo acid 200 gm Propyleneglycol 100 gm Propyleneglycol monomyristate First a clear solution of bromo acid and propylene glycol is tq be made by adding the bromo acid to propylene glycol. To this solution propylene glycol monomyristate is to be added. This blend gives a solution of bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil and castor oil and produces a homogeneousmass with waxes. (4) Colours The colour of the lipstick is most important from commercial and appealing points of view. Up to 1920 carmine was widely used as a lipstick pigment. As of today lots of dyestuffs and lakes are available to choose from. The colour is imparted to the lips in two ways(a) By staining the skin with a srclution of dyestuff which can penetratethe outer layer of the lip skin. (b) By covering the lips with a coloured layer which serves to hide any skin roughness and give a smooth appearance, The first requirement is met by soluble dyes and the second one is met by insoluble dyes and pigments which make the film more or less opaque. Modern lipsticks contain both to achieve the combined effect. The colours should be from the list of certified dyes under the Drugs and Cosmetics Act. (a) Staining dyes : The rnost widely used staining dyes are fluorescein, eosin and often halogenated fluorescein, which have been mentioned under bromo acids. Fluorescein and its derivatives can produce sensitization or photosensitization leading to cheilitis (inflammation of the red portinn of the lips).

While making of lakes, the possibility of incompatibility with the hnsehas to be considered. 'l'itanium dioxide is often used at levels up to lYo as white pigment tirr brightening the colour, obtaining pink shades,and giving opacity to thc llhn on the lips. This substanceshould be added with great care to nvoid formulation problems like oily exudation, streaking, dullness and coarsetexture. (5) I'reservatives, Fragrances, Surfactants and Other Additives It is very much essentialto include a preservative in the product to Itrcvcnt microbial growth. 0. l% propyl parahydroxybenzoate,in 0.1%o, ic used for this purpose. Higher concentration of 0.2o/ocan cause a rlightly burning sensation or can initiate an eosin allergic reaction. Otlrer oil soluble preservativesalso can be used but compatibility has to he considered. Perfumesare an essential component to mask the odour of the fatty lft wix baseas well as to impart an attractive flavour. Perfumesare used Itt the concentration runge of 2-4%. Special considerationis to be given kr sclect perfurnesfree of irritating effect and without disagreeabletaste Ettd flavour. Since the users apprehendthe perfume in the mouth and nosc, flavour must be taken care of along with odour. Perfume should hc stable and compatible with the other constituentsof the lipstick base. 'l'ltr, fiagrancesshould not be very strong as to clash with or overpower ollrcr perfumes that may be used concurrently with the lipstick. Floral etttl light spicy fragranceare much used and acceptable. Perfumesof the lirrit flavour type have been advocated as well. Also something edible cntt be used. Normally antioxidants are also suggested to be incorporated in lipstick formulations to prevent rancidifioation of oily base during stor-

46


age. Cornbination of proper antioxidants are preferred for this purpose. Antioxidants commonly used in lipsticks are butylated hydroxyanisore (BHA), propyl gallate, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), citric acid, 2,5-di-tert-butylhydroquinone etc. Surfactants are occasionally added to the lipstick. They are used to promote wetting and stabilize the dispersion of insoluble pigments in the base. But such additives may influence the consistencyof the stick. Some other materials have been suggested for use as additives to enhance the value of the make-up. oil-soluble sun-screensare used to filter the suns rays and protect lips from sun blisters. A silicon fluid can be used as a fixative and to prevent colours from bleeding on the lips. Polyvinyl pyrolidone is known "to form film on the lips and reduce tendency towards allergenic reaction and is used in 0.5 to l%o. It also helps in binding of dyestuff. Isopropyl linoleate is used to prevent drying effects. General Preparation of Lipsticks Successful preparation of lipstick shades depends largely upon adequate dispersion of the lake colours in the lipstick mass. It is advisable to preparedispersionsof the lake colours in castor oil. Dispersions are preferably preparedby milling, generally as25Yoconcentrations, in castor oil. Also ready-made dispersions are available in the market from manufacturersof cosmetic colours. A general outline for the manufacture of lipsticks followsIf a solvent is used for bromo acid, this solution is first prepared and set aside until required. If commercial colour pastes (as mentioned above) are not being used the lake colours are first dispersedby mixing with suitable quantity (as 25%ow/w) of castor oil, and the colour paste obtained is passedthrough a triple roll mill until it is smooth and free from agglomeratesand gritty particles. If titanium dioxide is used in the formula, the same is also made into a paste similarly and mixed with the colour mix. The colour mixtrlre is then mixed with the bromo-acid mixture. All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in order of increasing melting point. The lower melting point fats and waxes are next melted together and mixed with colours and bromo mixtures at the same temperature. This mixture is re-milled until perfectly smooth. The preservative and antioxidant is dissolved in any remaining oil and added to the mix. The high melting point waxes are now melted and added to the bulk at the same temperature. The perfume is f-rnally added anul the mass stirred thoroughly blrt gently to avoid

('lr 4 SKINCOLORANTS

47

enlrilpmentof air. The mass should not be melted after the high melting point waxes have been added. Gentle stirring is coritinued until the mass lr lurrnogeneousand it is then poured in lubricated moulds. Automatic ejection mould is preferable for large quantities and split trrouldsare satisfactory for small-scaleproduction. The mould is lubriurtcd with liquid paraffin or isopropyl myristate before'pouring the rnnss. No excess lubricant should be left in the mould surface. The ttrixcd mass should be poured into the mould at as low a temperatureas ltrssible to prevent settling down of colours. Also the moulds may be wnlrned before pouring the mass to avoid formation of ridges. After porrling the mass the moulds are chilled to achieve contraction of the wnxcs to facilitate easy removal of the sticks. Automatic ejection moulds are fitted with a water iacket which is lqctl to warrn or chill the mould as required. l ,l l tsti ck Formul ae scveral representativelipstick formulae are listed below. Each forrrrrlrrcan be modified by a slight modification in proportions of oils and tvnxcsand other ingredientsto adjust proper melting point, spreadability, nrrtl thickness of the film on the lips according to the particular characf*r'islics required. The formulae can vary in proportions of lake colours enrl bromo acids. Titanium dioxides may or may not be part of the lorrrrrrladependingon the requirement. perfume, preservativeand antirrrrirlnntshould be added in proper quantity to achieve the best effect. For m ulaI Castor oil Lanolin, anhydrous Candelilla wax Isopropyl myristate White beeswax Carnauba wax Ozokerite wax Eosin Lakes Rose flavour Antioxidant Preservative

54.0 gm 11.0gm 9.0 gm 8.0 gm 5.0 gm 3.0 gm 3.0 gm 2.0 gm 5.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

For m ula2 Beeswax Ozokerite wax

15.0gm 10.0gm

48


Carnaubawax Ceresinwax Lanolin Lanolin, anhydrous Isopropylmyristate Diethyl sebacate Castoroil Eosin Colour lakes Antioxidant Perfume Preservative Formula3 Camauba wax Candelilla wax Ozokerite wax (white) Bepswax, yellow Paraffin Hexadecyl stearate Castor oil Lanolin oil Oleyl alcohol Tenox II Colour Perfume Antioxidant Preservative

.

,

5.0 gm 4.0 gm 5.0 gm 14.0gm 10.0gm 10.0gm 15.0gm 2.0 gm 10.0gm q.s. q.s. q.s. 3.5 gm 7.5 gm 3.5 gm 4.0 gm 2.0 gm 8.0 gm 15.4gm 30.0 gm 15.0gm 0.1 gm 10.0gm 1.0gm q.s. q.s.

Formula 4

Castoroil Beeswax Paraffin oil Lanolin Cetyl alcohol Isopropylmyristate Ozokeritewax Carnaubawax Propyleneglycol Propyleneglycolmonoricinoleate Eosin

27.0 em 20.0 gm 3.0 gm 5.0 gm 2"0 gm 3.0 gm 10.0gm 2.5 gm 11.0gm 4.0 gm 2.5 gm -l

49

T'h 4 SKIN COLORANTS

l0'0 gm Colour q's' Perfume q's' Antioxidant q's' . Preservative properties' l'lrc aboveproductis non-greasytype with good staining Formula5 Castor oil Beeswax Lanolin Isopropyl mYristate Ozokerite wax Carnauba wax Propylene glYcol Candelilla wax Glycerin monostearate Acetylated monoglyceride (solid) Acetylated monoglyceride (liquid) Eosin Colour Perfume Antioxidant Preservative

39.0 gm 5.0 gm 3.0 gm 2.0 gm 5.0 gm 4.0 gm 6.0 gm 7.0 gm 3.0 gm 7.0 gm 5.0 gm 2.0 gm 12.0gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

t

Fo.mula6 wax Carnauba Candelilla wax Ozokerite wax Beeswax Lanolin Castor oil IsoproPYl mYristate Halogenatedfl uorosceins Lake colours Propyl-p-hYdroxY benzoate Perfume

2.50 gm 6.00 gm 2.50gm 6.00 gm 8.00 gm 55.00gm 4.00 gm 3.00 gm 12.00gnt 0.20 gm 0.80gm

Formula7 Castor oil Butyl stearate Abracol l.S.L. Emulsenel2l2

15.0gm 5.0 gm 7.0 gm 2.0 gm

50

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS;

Beeswax Spermaceti Petroleumjelly Hydrogenated palm kernel oil Acid eosin Titanium dioxide Lake colour Perfume Antioxidant Preservative

20.0 gm 10.0gm 12"0gm 15.0gm 1.0gm 1.0gm 12.0gm q.s. q.s q.s.

(2) ROUGE ,.Rouge can be defined as the cosmetic preparations used to apply a colour to the cheeks. lThe colour can vary from the pur"rt orpint, to tt deep blue reds but the conventionar roug" contains a high proportion of" red or reddish brown pigments. The tint or colour may be achieved by us ing wate r-i n s o l u b l e c o ro u rs s u c h as i ron oxi des and certai n organic pigments or by using water-sorubre organic colours which actually stain the skin. products containi colours are used as toners for specii should be selected carefully to avo proportion of a suitable bromo acir and attractive blushing effect. Over the years lots of changes have occurred in rouge composition. Ancient people used to colour their cheeks with a .olot, ,"u**"d o, cinnabar' people started using red ochre, vermitiorr,'"oct ineat or extracts of-Later sandalwood or brazilwood. In the early tweniies the tiquid rouges' dry rouges or greaserouges basicaily containing i"."'ni.", etc. were used. "ori", One of the oldest forms of rouge is the type known as cream rouge. I,T^:od"rl rouge preparations the pigments or corours are present in different form of carriers unrt uc"ordingry can be classified into four types but dry rouge is the most .o-rnoJy und *id.ly ur.a fp"_ (l) Powder rouges (2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based rouges (3) Emulsion cream rouges (4) Liquid rouges (l) Powder rouges :r-powderrouges are normally marketed as loose powders and compressedpowders or compacts. They contain pigments

5I

i,h 4 IiKINCOLORANTS

talc, nrrrl lakes in dry form, mixed with standardpowder materials like additionally rouges Compact carbonate. magnesium and rirr: stcarate rilrrtlrin a binder and are compressedin tablet form. Compact rouges are Irrolc popular than loose powder becausethey dust less on application nrrrlrrtlherebetter to the skin dtte to presenceof binders' According to the intensity of the pigment and the intended colouring the ellct:t of the powder, the pigment content is usually 5 to 20Yo of by replaced partly or wholly sometimes, are, lrrw(lor mass. Pigments in lesser used are and effect colour intense i'kes which produce more rilrrrrrtities.Rouges, sometimes,additionally contain water-soluble dyes' stain IrEtrlrrblecolorants remain on the skin, whereas, the soluble ones Some non-permanent. and loose tlre skin tissue itself. Stain should be given lllrrstrative examples of powder rouges and compact rouges are l rr' l ow : lrreparation Add the perfume with magnesium carbonateor starch rrr'otlrer adsorbent,mix properly and keep it covered for half an hour' Mix the remaining powders thoroughly and sieve through fine muslin' carbonate and then the required colour' Mix Arld the -ugn"rirand store in a suitable oontainer' llrrrroughly FOWI}ER ROUGE,S For m ulaI Zinc stearate Rice starch Talc Pigments Perfume

14.5gm 14.5gm 55.0gm 14.0gm 2.0 gm

FormulaJMagnesium carbonate (light) Precipitated chalk Zinc oxide Rice starch Talc Pigments Perfume

8.3 gm 16.6 gm 8.3 gm 12.4 gm 37.4 gm 15.0gm ,.9 E!

Formula p

Zinc oxide Lanolin

8.5 gm 25.5 gm

52


Magnesiumcarbonate(light) Talc Pigments Perfume

17.0gm 34.0 gm 13.0gm 2.0 gm

Formula l l

Kaolin Zinc oxide Magnesiumstearate Zinc stearate Magnesiumcarbonate Talc Colours Perfume

/

16.0gm 12.0gm 2.0 gm 1.0gm 3.0 gm 60.0 gm 6.0 gm q.s.

Compact rouges can be made by dry process or wet process. In dry process the powdered binder, such as tragacanth, acacia, is added in the mix and compressed. The binder is used as l% of the total mass. As an alternative binding material small amounts of a lanolin derivative and isopropyl myristate can be used. Zinc oxide is also used, in 5-r0yo, to increase adhesion. Metallic stearatesare arso essential components of compact rouges as dry binders and to increase adhesion of the products to the skin. In wet process the binding agent is prepared separatelyand is made of materials like tragacanth gum, a mixture of soap and tragacanthgum, and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. The binding agent is mixed with other materials and compressedto cake.

Formula12 Talc Kaolin Zinc stearate Zinc oxide Magnesiumcarbonate Rice starch Titanium dioxide Colours Perfume

48.0 gm 16.0gm 6.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 10.0gm 4.0 gm 6.0 gm q.s.

Mix the perfume with magnesium carbonate and keep aside with cover. Mix other ingredients thoroughly. Add magnesium carbonate and mix. Add colour and mix and then compress.

t,h"{

53

SKIN COLORANTS

Formul*!l' Kaolin Calcium carbonate Magnesiumcarbonate Zinc stearate Talc Pigments Perfume Binder

5.0 gm 5.0 grn 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 75.0 gm 5.0 gm q.s. q.s.

BINDER IsopropYlmYristate Lanolin absorPtionbase

50/o wlw 50ohwlw

perfume with magnesrum Mix the binding materials together' Mix Add to the remaining materials' lnrhonate and add ,o tt'" bindilng godets' into compress irrgrcclientsand mix well' Grind and formulae of dry rouges l;or compactsby wet process,any of the basic agents: binding r urr hc mixed with the following l '0 gm Tragacanth 2'0 gm Alcohol 97'o gm Water o/oof the above 0'2 Methyl parahydroxy benzoate add water in a continuous Mix the tragacanth with alcohol and then with stining occasionhours 24 blrcunl and stir well. Allow to stand for be dissolved in water is to nlly, and pass through muslin' Preservative wiilr hcat before adding to the tragacanth' l '3 gm Tragacanth gm 4'o Soa! chips gm 94'7 water o/o above the of 0'2 Methyl parahydroxy benzoate chips with suffrcient hot Itropare a concentrated solution of the soap paste' Add the remaining wrrlcr atrd use this to-prepare a tragacanth wrrlcr in a continuous stream and mix well' occasionally' and pass Allow to stand tbr 24 hours with stining preservativein water with the tlrrorrghmuslin before use' Dissolve the mix' ,ri,l ,,1 heat before adding to the soap tragacanth 'l'lrc binding agent is added, in sufficient amount' to the coloured pressed into a fairly damp paste' This is then lrowtlcr mix to prepare or pressure moulded to gorlcls hy subjecting it to a graOuatty increasing at normal temperature in a e rlclinite shape' The Uio"tti are thln dried

i'i 54

A HANDBOoKoF cosMETrcs

current of air. Undue heating should be avoided as it can split thc product and can vaporize the perfume. During drying they are kept on blotting paper to absorb excess moisture. After drying they are trimmecl with a special rotating knife to give a perfectly smooth finish to the surface. Then they are stuck with a suitable adhesive to the base of the container. (2) Anhydrous cream rouges/wax based rouges : In this type the base is wax type. They resemble the lipstick but are normally of bigger size. In these rouges the colours are dispersed in a fat-oil-wax base. They have advantages over powder rouges. They form a coniinuou, film on the skin which looks more natural than loose powder;' As these basesare water-repellentthey avoid the risk of perspiration and making the make-up run. The melting point of the base should not be below 40"C and is often 60oC or above. Occasionally these rouges are formulated as thixotropic preparation, so that, they can be solid in the container but liquefu when pressed on the skin and spread easily. To achieve the thixotropic character high melting point waxes are required to form a skeleton to accommodate the oil. Microcrystalline waxes or amorphous substancesto prevent the sweating of the oils. Formula 14 Beeswax Petrolatum (short fibre) Castor oil (semi-hydrogenated) Paraffin oil Lanolin (light) Lakes Perfurne

16.0gm 4.0 gm 54.0 gm ll.0 gm 5.0 gm 10.0gm q.s

Forrnula 15

Petrolatum(short fibre) Isopropyl myristate Lanolin (light) Glyceryl monostearate Lakes Perfume

40.0 gm 35.0gm 5.0 gm 12.0gm 8.0 gm q.s

Ih1

S K I N C O L O RAN TS

16.0gm Stearicacid 5.5 gm Lakes q.s. Perfume oils' fats' and waxes in Mix and grind the lakes together' Mix just abovethe meltingpoint of the lrrrrcrrsingmeltingpoint and heai to melt andgrind the mixturea i,igf tn'"tring**. Stit pigmentsinto th: '"*t perfumetowardsthe end of lew tirrreson a heated,.ipf" iofftt mill' Add l l f( l (rcsq.

popular because of their (J) Emulsion cream rouges : These are cold cream or of the vanishing ente rtf application unJ "* b"eof the point of view' these preparationsare , r.,,,rl typ". From a dermatological wetting and emulsiffing.agents rr,,t n., teneficial as in the preience of skin through hair follicles and the penetrate allitl rlye particles "u'ity "un irritation' So' qlrrrll fissures. If not remtved soon it can also cause while using this j,r,,i,., with cleansing cream is very important "f"*lng ly;rc rl[' rouges. preparationsto stain the Water-solubledyes are often used in these also used but must be as finely clttt. llowever, insoluble pigments are colours are used' it is necesrlt'.1telscdas possible' When water-soluble of hygroscopic substanceslike silrv lo incorporate sufficient quantity of water and darkening gir'.",.trt,glycols, sorbitol to preYentevaporation made using beeswaxbe can rl llrc cream surface. The preparations agent' emulsiffing lrorirx combination or by using a separate Formula 17

Lanolin Cocoa butter Beeswax Liquid paraffin Cetyl alcohol Water Borax Colour Perfumes Preservative Formula 18

Petrolatum (short fi bre)

Formula 16

Ceresin Petrolatum(short fibre) Paraffin oil

32.5 gm 13.5gm 2.5 gm

Beeswax IsopropYl mYristate

4.0 gm 4.0 gm 14.0gm 26'0 gm 1.0 gm 44.2 gm 0.8 gm 7'0 gm q.s. q.s. 20.0 gm 14.0gm 30.0gm

56


Cetyl alcohol Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate Borax Water Propyleneglycol Lake Perfume Preservative

3.0 gm 0.4 gm 1.0 gm 21.6 gm 12.0gm 8.0 gm q.s. q.s.

Dispersethe finely powderedcolour basewith the melted fats and oils. Preparea solutionof borax in water at about 7s"c andmix with the first one slowly with stirring untir emulsionis formed. Finallv mill it. Preservative shouldbe addedto water. Formula19 A. Arlacel C (Sorbitansesquioleate) 2.0 gm Lanolin (anhydrous) 2.0 gm Mineral oil 16.0gm Petrolaturp(white) 30.0 gm Preservative (oil soluble) q.s. B. Arlex 5.0 gm Brilliantred (c-10.01 3) 10.0.gm Water 35.0 gm Perfume q.s The aboveis a water-in-oiltype rougeand providesa productwhich is soft and creamyand possesses excelrentspreadingproperties.Sinceit is of the water-in-oiltype, it has lesstendencyto dry oui. Mix the ingredientsof 'A' and preservativetogetherand heat at about70oc. In a separatevesselheatingredientsof 'B' to 70-75"c and add 'B' to 'A' slowly with constantstirringto makean emulsion.Allow to cool and add the perfumeat 35"C. Mill it. Formula 20

A . Stearicacid

Isopropylmyristate Lanolin Beeswax Glycerolmonostearate B. Propyleneglycol Glycerin Water

14.25gm 2.25 gm 3.25 gm 4.50 gm 7.00 gm 4.75 gm 3.00gm 56.00gm

{'h,I

57

SKTNCOLORANTS

C. Pigments Perfume (watersoluble) Preservatives

5.00 gm q.s. q.s.

SepaMix together the ingredients of 'A' and heat at about 70oC' tn| e| yrni xthei ng r edient sof . B'andheat t osam et em per at ur eof . A' Pigments are to be tlrixtrrrcand add to 'A' slowly with constant stirring' dispersedin part of nrklcrl to the semi-processedproduct, preferably as at 35oC' propylcne glycol. Allow to cool and add the perfume or hydro(,1) Liquid rouges : The liquid rouges consist of aqueous must be highly nl.r,lr.rlic colour solutions. The colours selected but do attractiveness some have they errhrilnrttiveto the skin. Though is application Their rouges' dry or lot lurvc as good appeal as the iream ueur.r.l fup-pti "At nt f ut t yt heycanpr oducever ygoodef f ect 'Nor m ally easy application' It rr wick is attached at the neck of the container for should also dry and slrrrrrltlhave good viscosity for easy application rl rti ckl y. the colour in Aqueous preparationsare basically made by dissolving thickener' synthetic gum or rr visrrottsaqueous medium containing a I ilvccrirr is also incorporated sometimes' Formula2l

0.5 gm Erythrosine gm 20.0 glYcbl Propylene gm 10.0 Ethyl alcohol gm 69.5 Rosewater mixed-with l'hc colour is first mixed with propyleneglycol and then a suitable in stored then is It sotulion. a otlrer ingredientsto make I i l nl i l ttl er.

Formula22 Sodium alginate Calciunt citrate Wetting agent Water soluble dYe Rose water Preservative

0.45 gm 0.15 gm 0.20 gm 0.20 gm 99.00 gm q.s.

'l'lrc: wetting agent, sodium alginate and dye are first dissolved in n| xl tl | 6()ml rosewat er . Calcium cit r at eisslur r edinanot her 30m lr ose of the alginate rvrrrcrilnd added to the first portion when thickening volume made' and sillrrtiorrstarted. Preservativesare added afterwards

58

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S

Then store in a suitable container. The viscosity can be altered b1, varying the proprrrtion of alginate and calcium citrate. Formula23 Methyl cellulose Wetting agent Water Water-soluble dye Perfume Preservative

2.0 gm 0.1 gm 97.5gm 0.4 gm q.s. q.s.

This can be prepared by simple mixing. perfume and preservatives are to be added later. preservative can be dissolved initiaily in water. Methyl cellulose can be replaced by 0.4 gm tragacanth. Evaluation It is very essential to maintain a uniform high standard for lipsticks and rouges, for which severar tests have to be carried out incruding identification and their individual proportions. Special tests are also to be carried out for lipsticks and rouges. Tests for Lipsticks The finished lipsticks are required to be subjected to various tests. Identification of ingredients and their quantity can be determined by normal chemical analysis tests, though it is not a very easy task as a variety of ingredients are present. (i) Melting point : Determination of merting point is important and it is determined by capiilary tube method by keeping the size of capillary, length of fill, and rate of heating constant. Another impofiant test of similar nature is yierd point or droop point. Droop point is th" temperature at which the lipstick, rying flat in its case, wrtt-mett within the case and ooze out oil or flatten out. This is a indication of the rimit of safe storage. Droop point should preferably be above 50oc for safe handling and storage. Merting point should be higher than the droop point.

li,

(ii) Breaking point : This test is done to determine the strength of the lipstick" The lipstick is heli horizontally in a socket % inch above the base and weight is applied on the lipstick, t/z inch away from the edge of the support. The weight is gradually increased by a specific value (say 10 gm) at a specific interval of 30 seconds and the weight at which the iipstick breaks is considered as the breaking point. The test should be done at a specific temperature (say 25"ci and the ripstick

t h { 'sKlN CoLoRANTS

59

elrlrrll hc stored at that temperature for at least 30 minutes prior to the tFrl tlll) 'I'hixotropy character : This is an indication of thixotropic qttrrlrtyarrd is done,by using penetrometer. A standardneedle of specific tllurrrclt:ris allowed to penetrate for 5 seconds under a 50 gm load at !r"t' 't'lrolipstick is kept at25oC priorto the experiment. The depth of perrrlrulionis a measurementof the thixotropic structure. Penetrationof I trr l().-5mrn is indicative of a soft and thixotropic structure. A lrroduct of high droop point with soft, thixotropic structure will Brarrr c good application characteristics. (lv) Force of application : This is a test for comparativemeasurement r,f llrr' lirrce to be applied for application. Two lipsticks, end cut to get llnl trrllhce, are kept opposite way by mechanical holders. Lower llprlrr'1, standingupright and fixed. Upper lipstick is moving downward, lry rrree:hanical means under a given weight, to the flat surface of the lrrrverslick. A strip of smooth paper is attached to a dynamometer and b rltrrwn between the two lipstick ends at a constant speed. The force tFrlrre(l to pull the paper against a given specific weight is measured Frr'l r orrrparedwith those made on other sticks of same diameter. Altcrrratively a piece of coarse brown paper can be kept on a shadow grrr;rlrbllance and the lipstick can be applied, at 45" angle, to cover a I rr;rrurc inch area until fully covered. The pressure reading is an Irrrlilrlion of force of application,though it may dependon the operator. (v) Aging stabilify : The product is stored at 40"C and periodical rrhqetvirtionof oil bleed, crystallization of wax on surface, and applicallnn t ltirr:rcteristics is made. (vl) Perfume stability : This is also done by storing at 40"C and S,rriorlicirllycomparing, after bringing the temperaturedown; with a fl erl r l i psti ck. (vla, Oxidative stability : Oxidative stability is predicted by standard rlolerrrrination of peroxide value after exposureto oxygen under given r rttrl i li rl rs, hlil) Surface anomalies: This is studiedbythe surfacedefects,such qn lorrrrirlionof crystals on surface, contamination by moulds, fungi etc. lrr111111i,rrt of wrinkles, exudation of liquid substancesand of solid fatly ttccS . --ttl rr,l rt

1lr) Accelerated stabilify test : Accelerated stability test aging can l,a',trrrliedat higher temperature(45'C) or alternatelykeeping at 45oC 4il,1(t'(' :rnd observinsthe chanses.

60

A HANDBOOK OF COSMI ilr ,,

Tests for Rouges Apart from general tests for identification and estimation. bv sorrr, chemical or instrumental analysis, of ingredients, som€ other specrtr, tests are to be carried out to evaluate and control the products. (i) Melting point : Melting point is determined,specifically li,r cream rouges, by capillary tube method. The melting point preferalrrr should not be below 50oc for good storage and apprication point .r view. (ii) colour dispersion : colour dispersionis checkedunder micr, scope and no particle, above 50 p, should be there. colour particrc., above 50 p size may cause agglomeration and corour particles may rr,. easily identifiable.

CHAFIIER-5

Skin Creams the sh in care is the age old necessityof mankind. This necessitylead to ('rlrtinuous modification and invention of more and more skin care r'rtsnreticpreparations'

(iii) Aging stability : This is done by keeping the product ar ovcr 40"c for a one month period and noting the changesand comparing wirrr fresh products. Also product can be periodically kept at 40oc,'.oo,,, temperature and in refrigerator for a specific period, about 2 weeks arrtl noting the changes. (iv) Container compatibirity : As theseproducts,particurarly crear' rouges, are marketed in plastic tube, compatibility of the product witlr plastic is to be checked. This can be studied at higher'temperaturc (accelerated stability test) to predict the compatibility at no.-ul ,h.11, life. (v) Sedimentation of riquid rouges : This is to judge the sedimen. tation rate characterof the liquid rouges, as sedimentatio-nmay be there. viscosity of the product is impoftant to have srow sedimentation.

tlre skin and to design better skin care preparations' with the availability of wide spectrum additives, like emulsifing preparation of [gcnts, etc., and development of various techniques, emulsion type are the creams Mostly, I reiunshas become very simple. solid' a spreadable to liquid a rurdconsistencycan vary from All the skin care creams can be classihed on different basis( l) According to functiofl, €.8. cleansing, foundation, massage'etc' (2) According to characteristicproperties, e'g' cold crearns' vanishing creams,etc. (3) According to the nature or type of emulsion' l'he most widely accepted classification is based on function' According to the functions the creams can be classified as follows(l) Cleansing and cold cre.uns (2) Foundation and vanishing creilns (3) Night and massage ueilns (a) Hand and bodY creams (5) All-purpose and general creams 6l

t'h,t

62

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(:S

(l) CLEANSTNGAND COLD CREAMS Keeping the body clean is the most important and primitive need on account of personal hygiene and beautification which leads to the need of cosmetics. Though the natural process of constant sloughing off ol the uppermost horny cells maintains some cleanliness,but it cannot be regarded as adequate from the cosmetic point of view. Modern people derrand a higher degree of cleanliness. Cleansing cream or lotion is required for removal of facial make-up, surface grime, oil, and water and oil soluble soil efficiently, mainly from the face and throat. A good and properly formulated cleansing cream should be able to remove, quickly and efficiently, applied cosmetics as face powder, rouge, foundation bases,cake make-up, and lipstick. The excessive increase in eye make-up also necessitatesuse of cleansing products specially formulated to remove such make-up.

l L

i

Although adequate washing with soap and water will perform the cleaning action but a cleansing cream has certain advantages. Washing with soap-water makes the skin look dry. The cleansing cream can readily remove the chemical substances of the facial make-up by dissolving or lifting away the greasybinding materialsholding pigments or grime on the skin. Studies have indicated that solidified skin oil, sebum over sebaceousor pilosebaceousorifices are resistantto removal by scrubbing with soap and water, but can easily be removed by the use of various commercial cleansing creams, polyethylene glycol 400, and olive oil. Various fat solvents such as acetone, chloroform, glycerol, kerosene, white gasoline, dioxane, and 95o/oethanol were found to be effective in removal of surface oil layer, but not the slid sebum plaques. This may be due to the superior efficacy of cleansing creamsto dislodge and remove these plaques from the orifices of the sebaceousducts. Ease of application is an irnportant feature of the cleansing cream and so most of these creams are liquids so that excesscream and soil are then easily removable with tissue. The resultant layer left on the skin must not be occlusive but should be sufficiently emollient to prevent drying. Cold creams on the other hand must primarily have an emollient action. It is also expectedthat they should produce a cooling sensation in ustl and the resultant oil fiLn on the skin should be non-occlusive. r\ cleansing crearn should be easily applicable and spreadable. It should cause low irritation to the skin. In addition to the primary functiorr of cleaning, a multipurpose character can Lreimparted by adding appropriate ingredients to bring abilities to soften, lubricate, and protect.

SKIN CREAMS

63

('hrracteristics A good cleansing cream should have the following characteristicswater( l) It should effectively be able to remove oil-soluble and and face specifically skin, soluble soil and ,uif^"" oil from the throat.

(2) As a cosmetic it should be stable and have a good appearance. ( 1) It should melt or soften on application to the skin' (4) It should spread easily without too much drag' During application, it should not feel greasy or oily' not (5) After evaporation of any water, the cream residue should become viscous. ((,) Its physical action on the skin and pore openings should be that of flushing rather than absorption' (7) A light emollient film should remain on the skin after use of the cream. 'l'hc method of use of cleansing cream is standard' The cream is to stroke he irpplied to face and throat with fingertips' A rotating upward is cloth soft or paper rrt tlrc lingers is used to spreadthe cream' A tissue creams' cleansing tlrr.rrrrscdto remove the residue. In case of washable with or without tlrr ( rr::urt residues may be removed using tap water prr,rr l rseof ti ssue. I r'prcsof Cleansing Creams l'r'rrditionally,cleansing creams are classified into two categories( | ) White, emulsified cold cream (beeswax-boraxtype)' (.1) 'lranslucent, liqueffing type, anhydrous in characterand consisting of a mixture of hydrocarbon oils and waxes' emulsiffAs a result of the development of several newer and better are made creams cleansing type emulsion nowadays many Irrg rrp,.cuts, r+llllotrlbeeswaxand borax. (l ) tlceswax-borax type : The beeswax-boraxtype is a most imporare usually r,ilrt lrrrnrulationamong cleansingcreams. The typical creams a firm have creams The graininess' rrlrrlc. ol'high lustre, and free from with spread and skin the to r,,l.,i',lc:ucy.- They liquefy on application cleansing for oil mineral of Frr,,.' I'ltcsecreams contain high percentage the elltr rrt'y. Basically, they are oil-in-water type of emulsion' After evaporates water of quantity rterrilr:iilrc rubbed on the skin, a sufficient action t'r lrrl)nlt arphase inversion to the water-in-oil type' The solvent

OF COSMETICS A HANDBOOK

64

of the oil, as external phase, imparts the cleansing properly. ln this beeswax-borax type preparation borax reacts with the free fatty acids present in the beeswax and produces soft soap which acts as the emulsifiing agent and emulsifies the oil phase, containing beeswax, mineral oil, paraffin etc., in the aqueousphase. \ General procedure for manufacturing : As thesq preparations are ernulsion type, the total ingredients can be classified into oil phase and aqueous phase. Ingredients of oil phase should be taken in increasing meltiqg point. The materials of least melting point should be taken and melt it. Add the other oil or wax gradually in increasing melting point and melt them with continuous stirring. Take separatelythe ingredients of aqueous phase and mix them and heat to same temperature as oil phase. Emulsifoing agents should be added to specific phase. Mix the two phases with continuous stirring until a,smooth cream is formed. Finally the product can be milled by triple roller mill. Preservative should be dissolved in the water before making cream. Perfume should be added after the primary cream is formed and cooled but before final

ct r SKINCREAMS

A.

15.0gm

Beeswax

1.0gm 32.0gm q.s.

B. Borax Water Preservative

q.s.

C. Perfume

Heat first five materials (A) and next three materials (B) separatelyin glass containers at about 75oC. Add the second mixture to the first mixture slowly with continuous stirring until the thick stable emulsion is formed. Add the perfume when the temperature has fallen to about 35"C. Stir again, mill and store in a suitable container' \4ormuia A.

Beeswax Almond oil Lanolin

2

2.0 gm 50.0gm 0.5 gm

q.s.

C. Perfume

'ff,rmutas A . Beeswax Mineral oil Paraffin wax Spermaceti Borax Preservative

q.s.

C . Perfume

{rn.11u a A. Beeswax Ceresin wax Mineral oil Lanolin Water Preservative

q.s.

C . Perfume Formula 5

Wheat-germ oil SPermaceti Beeswax

B. Water Borax Preservative (1. Perfume Formula 6

A. Beeswax Mineral oil Parafftn wax CetYl alcohol

9.0 gm 4.5 gm 52.0 gm 0.5 gm 0.7 gm 33.3gm q.s

B. Borax

A.

10.0gm 50.0 gm 5.0 gm 3.0 gm 28.4 gm 0.6 gm q.s.

B. Water

millins. BEESWAX-BORAXCOLD CREAM TYPE F o rmu l aI 28.0gm Mineral oil 14.0gm lsopropyl myristate 2.5 gm Acetoglyceride 7.5 gm Petroleum jelly

2.0 gm 35.5gm q.s.

B. Borax Rose water Preservative

48.0 gm 15.0gm 15.0gm 21.5gm 0.5 gm , q.s, q.s. 8.0 gm 49.0 gm 7.0 gm 1.0 gm

A HANDtsOOK OF COSMETI( \

B. Borax

0.4 gm 34.6 gm , q.s. qs.

Water Preservative

c A

B

Perfume

Beeswax Mineral oil Spermaceti Ozokeritewax Lanolin

Formula7

Borax Water Preservative

12.00gm 50.25gm 5.00 gm 5.00 gm 2.00 gm 0.75 gm 25.00gm q.s.

C. Perfume

q.s.

(2) Lique$ing creansing creams : Thgs-eare transrucentliqueffing anhydrous type of creansinl creams oi-thixotropi" .r,"o.t".] They consist of a mixture of oils and waxes and have such consistency trrat they liquefr when gently massaged on the skin. The materiars used for preparing these creams .are^mineral oil, paraffin, petrolatum, w:xes. Occasionally vegetable oils, fatty acid esters,or lanolin are also in"o.po_ rated in small amounts. Proportion of various materials should be decided properly and formulation should be done carefully. Thixotropic wax like paraflin. The proportion of

tum for crystalline ones. mineral oils.

th r $KlNCREAMS LIQUEFYING CLEANSING CREAMS Formuh 6

80.0 gm Mineral oil 15.0gm jellY Petroleum 5.0 gm ()zokeritewax g.s. I'reservative q.s. Perfume Cool with stitring' ll'nt all the oils and waxestogetheiat 65"C' in a suitable and perfumeafteicooling at 40oC' Store Arll prcservative r.otrlttittcr.

Formule9 IsoproPYlmYristate Mineral oil l'etroleum jellY Paraffin wax Preservative Perfume Formulal0

General procedure.of manufacturing : Melt the waxes first. Add petrolatum and finally the liquid oils. sti thoroughly, add the perfume after cooling to about 45'c. The melted mixture should be firtered. Finally it can be passedthrough u .ott"r rnitt.

42.0 gm 18.0gm 12.0gm 14.0gm 14.0gm q.s. q.s.

White mineral oil White PetroleumjellY Spermaceti Ozokerite wax Oetyl alcohol Preservative Perfume Formula ld

The pe

For emollient character normally lanolin or its derivatives, cetyl alcohol, spermaceti and cocoa Uutt". ur" lncorporated. Sometimes an opaque appearance is preferred and can be obiained uy in"o.p-uting agents like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, magnesium stearate,zinc stearate' or hydrous ranolin. These substun"., u.. normalry used at 2%o concentration.

25.0 gm 25.0 gm .,. 30.0 gm 20.0 gm q.s q.s

Mineral oil l)ctrolatum l)araffin wax llccswax l'reservative l'crfume (2) FOUNDATION

62.5 gm 18.75gm 12.5 gm 6'25 gm . q.s. q.s.

AND VANISHING

CREAMS

widely used for- various .purVirrrislringand foundation creams are to the functions' :i',-r"' names have been derived according 1r,,u". when applied and crearns ur" nut"d so as they disappear Verri,,lrirr;,, creams serve as a foundation rrrl,lrrrl irrto the skin. Whereas foundation

68

69


base for the make-up acting as an adherent base for application of makeup powders. rthey also provide emollient action, and a protective actiorr against environment by leaving a semi-occlusive residual film on the skin which is neither too greasy nor too drying. It can also be mentioned here that another nomenclature, 'Day Creams', is used as these preparations are used during the day in contrast to heavy-night creams. All these creams must not damage the skin, should be stable and have a good consistency. Normally these preparations are based on stearic acid but can be varied also. Some suitable additives may be incorporatedto impart skin protecting properties. The formula can be modified suitably to make genuine skin conditioners with emollient or depth effect or cleansersof the massage cream type. The composition of stearatecreams intended for daytime use (day creams) is usually very simple.

!.r

\KlN ('REAMS

tilrrorr *usYTd.:f vllltlenature-,::fl ;:tJ:r:::TlJ: H|ien; itesru r*-,'r",,r,ir.' cre; buttt" ot':1-"Tl?:":ffl dtscolour 'irry*r,ir.'."'-^1:.0*ffiffiJ$r3ff to discolout to tendency tJ, a ,.ra"ncy t ( ) g r a l n '. P l r , l , 'r r ,Y "*ith

#;;';;

: mc - ^ _ ^ +i time' it aftersome

,',,,.t.

"

the

intain i' 1,:?-:""11T'lt"11"t"nrffi*: ;,;;;' no,o"*aing107.1 j,*JTfu1#'""1""ii:J; mlnute !*e;'*-o'jr'ry, F||tIqIBtc||cy an-d-q!3lg+-,#*Ô.=;Ol ,,,,:l::ili;'"ffi ication, forming o,f absorb artematrve usingaltemative by using bv fiElrrrr,,it rnay +.o iJ ou"'"o*" ^rercorn€ i'1"1,"::H:#H;LJ;;; l',1,',..1'., lil much wanted' ing creams is very The materials tain the fearliness' sPermaceti' u'" iio"ia Paraffin' ' nond oil'

Vanishing Creams They are called vanishing creams because they seem to disappear when rubbed into the skin. These preparationsare stearic acid basedand part of the stearic acid is saponified with an alkali and rest of the stearic acid is emulsified with this soap in a large quantity of water. iAfter* application the cream leaves a dry but tacky residual film which also has a drying effect on the skiil Because of this reason the stearic acid soap based creams are still favoured for use with greasy skin conditions and particularly in hot climatesT-which cause perspiration on the face and where more emollient creanis are not suitable. $inest quality triple-pressed stearic acid of melting point of about 55"C is normally used. The high quality stearic acid plovides an oil phase,which melts above body temperatureand crystallizes in a suitable form, provides an invisible and non-greasy film and can produce a very attractive appearance) Normally 20-3Oo of free fatty acids is neutralized by using alkali,'either potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide) Characters of the creams vary according to the proportion of the stearic acid present {!e total proportion should not exceed 25Yo, and best preparations are obtained using l6-207o neutralizatior| fne consistency and texture of the cream also depends on the amount of acid saponified and the nature of alkali used.(Sodium hydroxide makes a harder creams than potassium hydroxide) The amount of alkali is required to be calculated on the basis of 6mount of free acid available. from potassi um hydrox ide, trglbqplquoing.-is -also an exceI lent (pa,t alkali to prepare good quality creatns. Use of triethanolamine makes the

red in airtight contalners'

cfilrElrlcrocl'

Formula 12

A. Stearic acid CetYl alcoholTriethanolamine

20.00gm 0.50 gm 1.20gm

70

A HANDBOOK OF COSMEI'I( S

B

I

A

Sodiumhydroxide Glycerin Water Perfume Preservative

0.36 gm 8.00 gm 69.94 gm q.s q.s

Formule13 '/ Lanolin Cetyl alcohol Stearicacid Propyleneglycol Potassiumhydroxide

2.00 gm 0.50 gm 10.00gm 8.00 gm 0.40 gm

Water Perfume Preservative

79.10gm q.s. q.s.

th!

7l

\ h r N ( 'r i l ; A M S

Sodium hydroxide 'l'riethanolamine ll

(i l yce r in Water [)erfume l'reservative

0.36 gm l.2O gm 8.00 gm 69.94 gm q.s. q.s.

Formula 17 o/ Stearic acid l)otassiumhYdroxide ll

(i l ycer in Water l)erfume l'reservative

20.0gm 1 . 4gm 4.0 gm 74.6gm q.s. q.s.

Formula 14 A

12.0gm 0.5 gm 5.0 gm 3.0 gm 1.0 gm

Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol Sorbitol syrup Propylene glycol Triethanolamine

B. Glycerin

0.3 gm 78.2 gm q.s. q.s.


p*lrrure wltcn ths temperatureis about 35"C' Mill it' Fspnrl nl krn(l ream s

' Formula 15

A. Stearic acid Potassium hydroxide Sodium hydroxide Cetyl alcohol Propylene glycol

B. Glycerin

15.00gm 0.50 gm 0.18 gm 0.50 gm 3.00 gm 5.00 gm 75.82gn q.s. q.s


Stearic acid Cetyl alcohol

l l re l rrrtrrrl :rlitcr ) lteam scan be of t wo t ypes| | 1 I'rlirrtcntedcreamswhich are coloured I '1 t lrrpigmentedcreams

Formula 16

A.

rlc,, rl,,eqlrtrlpin retentionof powder. '

20.00gm 0.50 gm

l*Frrsrill ;lrocedure of manufacturing : Heat ingredients of oil phase separatelyto 75oC and mix the latter to the l,lia-e ,rrr,l,,,1,,.t.,u, the ii,r+*r',rl,,r*'lv with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring' Add

72

A HANDBOOK OF COSMTrrr i

perfumewhen the temperatureis about 35oc. preservative shoultlr,r addedto waterbeforemixing with oil phase.Finally a milling will 1,,,u a good product.

A. Liquid paraffin

2.00 gm 0.50gm 10.00gm 0.40 gm 8.00 gm 79.10gm q.s. q.s.

For m u l a 1 9

Cetyl alcohol Lanolin (anhydrous) Glyceryl monostearate Triethanolamine

B. Water

1.00gm L00 gm 2.00 gm 18.00gm 1.58gm 76.00gm 2.00 gm q.s. q.s.

Sorbitol Perfume Preservative Formula20 A.

Spermaceti

Glyceryl monostearate Colours B. Water Glyceryl Perfume Preservative Formula2l A. Glyceryl monostearate Mineral oil Cetyl alcohol Isopropyllinoleate B. Glycerin Water

ri l i l N C ]R E A M S

q.s. q.s.

Perfume Preservative Formuls 22

Formule 18 <

A. Lanolin Cetyl alcohol Stearicacid " Potassiumhydroxide B. Propyleneglycol Water Perfume Preservative

It

th!

A. Lanolin Mineral oil Stearic acid Glyceryl monostearate ll.

Glycerin Triethanolamine Water Perfrtme Preservative

1.00gm 10.00gm 2.50 gm 3.00 gm 5.00 gm 0.50 gm 78.00gm q.s. q.s.

t0undrtlon Make-uP to hold the powder Ar loundation cream is used as a base make-up process' The idea of *lrle trp above it, the total make-up is a two-step processand the.troumake-up came to overcomethis two-step lirrrrrrlrrriolr forms, particularly-liquid, hls rvrrlt il. Foundation make-up in various it has replacedthe foundacountries in some heqlrr'r'(lrncso popular that The reason being the liquid ltrr (tcurils and loose powder altogether' than powder and a smooth firrrrr,lrrlittnmake-up is much easier to apply of surfactants may presence the Though can be obtained. Bplre-nnlnco hair follicles and fissures of rrtrrlc tlrc colours or pigments penetite the it has some popularity' u1,i,t",,,,i,if not compllt"ly ,.-on"d, still

5.00 gm 20.00 gm 3.00 gm

A.

67.00gm 5.00 gm q.s. q.s.

' lt.

Formula23 Lanette wax Stearic acid Water Glycerin Powder base Colour Perfume Preservative

8.00 gm 8.00 gm 64.00gm 10.00gm 10.00gm q.s q.s. q.s

20.00gm 5.00 gm 2.00 gm 1.50gm

colour and perfume with llrul c:omponentsof 'A' to 85o-90oC' Mix Add 'B' i{t "\' and llre lxrwder base, then dispersethis in the glycerin' l ri l r l l rrtrotl ghlY.

8.00 gm 71.00gm

formuh 24

Butyl stearate Stearicacid

1.00gm 12.00gm


Sorbitanmonostearate 2.00gm Polyxyethylenesorbitanmonostearate 1.00 gm Propyleneglycol 12.50gm 2.00 gm Talcum 8.00 gm Titanium dioxide 2,00 gm Iron oxide (red) 1.00gm Water 58.00gm Perfume q.s. q.s. Take the first four substancesand heat it at about 70oC. Heat water and sorbitolliquid to sametemperature and makeemulsion. Add colour and perfume with talcum and then mix with propvleneglycol and sorbitolliquid and mix with the emulsion,cooledat 35oC. Homogenize the whole preparationin an ointmentmill. Formula25 A. Stearicacid Span60 Isopropylpalmitate B. Tween60 Propyleneglycol Water Dry powders(titaniumdioxide, talc, inorganicpigments) Perfume Preservative

15.0gm 2.5 gm 2.0 gm 1.50gm 10.00gm 54.00gm 15.00gm q.s. q.s.

Mix the pigment and talc to dispersethe colour properly. Heat componentsof 'A' to 85oc and componentsof 'B' to 90"c in separate containers.Add 'B' to 'A' with continuousstirring. cool slowly with stirring. Add perfume when the temperaturecomes down to 35"C. Preservative should be addedin water of components.B' beforecream is made. (3) NIGHT AND MASSAGE CREAMS

( lr I

S K IN C R E A MS

I)

orrc arrother. The common feature is that they are generally applied on tlrt' skin and left for several hours, say overnight, and all of them assist Irr tlrc repair of skin which has been surface damaged by exposure to vnlious elements or exposure to detergent solution or soap. 'They rrolrrally contain high quantity of oily and fatty materials together with r,rrrolliontssuch as lanolin or lanolin derivatives and are preparedeither sr oil-in-water or water-in-oil or as mixed emulsion systems. Skin acts ns l barrier between the body and its environment maintaining a controlIt'rl rlynamic equilibrium. Various stressesimposed by the environmental Irrt:lorscan cause changesor damage to the skin. The major function of llrcsc creams is to help to reverse these changes and maintain a normal lrcrltlry skin. They are easy to apply but not too easy to rub in. These ('rcilrns are also not to rub in. They are sticky and greasy due to lrrcscnceof oil/wax but this charactercan be avoided by using materials .,rrc:h as fatty acid esters,acetylatedglycerides and other oils which have pood spreading properties. The objective of using such creams is to eovcr the skin with a well dispersed, and consequently thin residual occlusivefilm which is not greasyor sticky. When this film is allowed kr rcrnain,the loss of moisture is slowed down comparatively. As normally these creams are applied at night time, the time norrrurlly assigned-toskin preservationand feeding, they are called night ('rcarns. But they can also be used in clay time as a base for applying lrrcc powders. These preparationsare also used to supplementhormones ol vitamins to the skin and they may be termed as hormone creams or v itarnin creams respectively. Composition Emoliient and moisturizing substancesare one imporlilnt component of these creams. To rectiff the dryness and maintain the llcxibility of the skin emollients are used. Emollient action can be uchievedby two mechanisms. (l)

Prevention of water loss from the skin and thus building up of water content from within.

(2) Supplementing the water content of the skin by attracting the water from the atmosphereby means of a humectant material. The mechanism of zrttracting water from the atmosphere and thus rrraintainingthe water content of the skin is called moisturizing. All the rnoisturizing creams thus contain a humectant. Most common si6stances used as humectants are glycerol and other polyhydric alcohols like ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and sorbitol. Solutions of sodium lactate,glucose, fructose,glucosamine,deoxyribose,

77

* rhtN ('RliAMS +=fr

':.6

A HANDBooKoF cosMErICS

and ribose also show healing, soothing and keratoplasticactivity on skin-

I

Ferlrrrile:iluruldbe added after cooling and milled through triple roller nfl l I lrr rrsc of isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate is recom*tFillF'l ;r'. lltcy give additional body to the cream. Formula26

skin.

A

Lanolin and its derivatives, stearic acid, wool wax alcohols, wool wax steroids, beeswax, artificial preen gland oil, vegetable oils like groundnut oil have found use in these creams. Various esters like isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, or isoalcohols are also incorporated. Vitamins or hormones are incorporated in these creams for nourishment to the skin and they can thus be termed as vitamin crealns or hormone creams. The vitamins which are used for this purpose are vitamin A, vitamin D, vitamin E or some water soluble vitamins. The name vitamin F has been given to a mixture of unsaturated fatty acids, including linoleic acid, linolenic acid and is arachidonic acid, and used in creams for treatment of skin. They are normally used as alkyl esters like isopropyl ester, etc. Estrogen, progestin, pregnenolone and androgens are all claimed to have sh&n limited restorative effects on aged skin. Though there is fear that the hormones may be absorbed and can produce systemic side effects but as the concentrations at which they are used in these creams are very low, so the chances of side effects are not there' A suitable vehicle is required to dissolve hormone and for this purpose oil of persic, vegetable oils, benzyl benzoate, ethyl alcohol, propylene glycol may be used. Suitable perfume is incorporated according to the choice or acceptability. As these preparations are emulsions and contain good amount of watei, preservatives are also to be incorporated. Methyl parahydroxy benzoate in combination with propyl or butyl parahydroxy benzoate are widely used for this PurPose. If the preparations contain unsaturated esters or oils, antioxidant should be incorporated to prevent rancidification' As these preparations are General procedure of manufacturing emulsion typi, they contain two categoriesof ingredients,oil and similar substances and water and other water miscible ingredients. Both should be taken separately and heated nearly to same temperature to get all in liquid state. Mix the two with continuous stirring until cream is formed.

ll.

White beeswax I)araffin wax l,anolin

38.0 gm 8.0 gm 15.0gm 1.0 gm 2.0 gm

Borax" Water Perfume Preservative Antioxidant

1.0 gm 35.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Mineral oil Petroleumjelly

Formula27 A . Beeswax Mineral oil Lanolin oil Isopropyl palmitate Acetylated glyceride Lanolin

It. Borax Water Perfume Preservative Antioxidant

8.0 gm 15.0gm 7.5 gm 10.0gm 2.0 gm 2.0 gm 0.5 gm 35.0gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

lleul componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyto 75"C' Add 'B' to 'A' perfume elnwly with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add in added be should Preservative Wherrtlre temperatureis about 35oC. * E l E r l )l ul sc . Formula28 A. Groundnrlt oil Mineral oil (light) PetroleumjellY Lanolin Beeswax Borax

15.0gm 20.0 gm 30.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm 0.3 gm

78

A HANDBOOKOF COSMI ll,

B. Water

t i

243 gm q.s q.s q.s

Perfume Antioxidant Preservative

A

Formula29

A. Vegetable oil Isopropyl myristate Acetoglyceride S/C Acetoglyceride LIC Oleyl alcohol Lanolin Isopropyl linoleate Stearyl alcohol Stearic acid Lecithin Beeswax Borax

B. Triethanolamine

21.00gm 8.00 gm 7.50gm 5.00 gm 3.00gm 2.50gm 2.00 gm 1.50gm 1.00gm 1.00gm 8.00gm 0.25 gm 0.50gm 38"75gm q.s. q.s


It

I

ghl ttl

B. Borax Water Perfume Antioxidant Preservative

1.0gm 37.0gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

l l oru W ate r l'crfume Arrtioxidant I'tcservative

0.8 gm 40.7 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

HORMONE CREAMS ;\

ll

Mineral oil 40.0 gm Beeswax yellow 15.0gm Lanolin 0.5 gm Isopropyl myristate 5.0 gm Acetylated lanolin 0.5 gm Concentrated solution of vitamin A & D 1.0 gm

1.0 gm 31.0gm 8.0 gm 2.5 gm l l.0 gm 5.0 gm

l 'r"('.

Formula30 A.

Formula3l linoleate lsopropyl Mi rre r aloil lsopropyl palmitate l ,l rnolin llccswax Microcrystalline wax

l l prrt ,otttponent sof 'A'and'B' separ at elyt o 75oC' and add 'B't o I eh,rrlr,with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring,adding perfume

Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separatelyat about 75"C. Mix 'lI to 'A' with continuous stirring. Cool while stirring and add perfurrr, when cooled to 35"C. VITAMIN CREAMS

79

tt tN ( t(t:A M S

Formula32 Acctylated lanolin lsopropyl myristate Mineral oil (heavy) Ilorrnone(in vehicle) llcoswax (' ctyl alcohol Stcarylalcohol lrruulsiffing agent (o/w tYPe)

15.0gm 3.0 gm 4.0 gm 1.0 gm 7.0 gm 3.0 gm 3.0 gm 15.0gm

W atcr I' crl ir r ne Itrcscrvative A rrl ioxidant

49.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

lliqaillvr.rctlrrisiteamount of estrogenicsubstancein a suitable solrEfif arill rr,,t.il in 'A'. Heat componentsof 'A'and water separatelyat .,lrrrvlyirtld water to'A' with moderatebut continuousstirring. rti | t rmliltr; ',trttitrp,while coqling and add perfume at 35oC' FRUIT JUICE CREAMS Formula33 A

oil S rrrr llower t i l yc : cr in

5.0 gm 5.0 gm

A FIANDBOoKoF coSMl rtt

80

B.

Orange juice or grape fruit juice Emulsifuing agent (emulsene)

24.0 gm 16"0 gm

Water Perfume (orange oil) Preservative

50.0 gm q.s. q's.

Heat components of 'A' at 75"C, except juice. Heat water r'vrtl' preservativeat sametemperatureseparatelyand add to'A'with Corlitrrr ous stirring. Cool while stirring. Add juice and perfume whett llr, temperature is at about 35oC.

tt r bl l ri ( l tl rAM S

81

are expectedto be: llrF |'riilil lirnctions of hand and body creams water loss fiom the surface { | ) l{cplace water loss or reduce the ol the skin. skin' { ') l'rovide an oily film to protect the ( l) Kccp the skin soft, smooth but not greasy' t | ) lrlsY to aPPlY"

LANOLIN JUICE CREAMS Formula34 Lanette wax Myristyl alcohol Giycerin Lemon juice Water Oil of lemon Preservative

12.0 gm 5.0 gm 6.0 gm 20.0 gm 57.0gm q.s. q.s.

Heat lanette wax and myristyl alcohol and mix together at 15"( Heat water with preservative at same temperature but separately. A'l'l water to first mixture with continuous stirring. Stir in the lemon jtrr,, and glycerin after emulsion is formed. Finally add lemon oil wlr' " temperature is about 35"C.

l | rl er hl t used in these preparaVdrl,ril',tttittcrials,in variable proportions'are lrr,,ltlirirl different functions' lfuiit==

(4) HAND AND BODY CREAMS Softness of the skin is very important and also wanted. Sebunr. ' substancewhich is secretedfrom the skin, acts as a natural lubricant arr,l keeps the skin soft and conditioned. The film produced by secrctt''l sebum also helps to keep the skin wet by preventing the evaporation "l moisture. The repeatedor constant contact with soap and detergentdot the damage or causesremoval of the film sebum. Frequent removal of this sebum makes the skin dry, scaly and lc" ' protective against bacterial infection and can, ultimately, lead to dernrrr titis. Some natural moisturizing agents are also secreted by the skirr controlled use of soap or detergent does not make the skin much drr and scaly, but frequent and prolonged use of soaps or detergents,dryirrl' winds and indoor atmospheresmake the skin much dry and scaly' A protection is required to maintain the skin in normal condition.

Fl * rr

82

A HANDBOoK oF cosMtirr( ,

Incorporation of alkyl fatty acid esters helps to prevent drag rrr,,r excessiveoiliness. The alkyl fatty acid estersmake the oil phase 1,.,, viscous and so enablethe skin to be coveredwith a thinner oil film ri,.,,, would otherwise be possible. Sometimes a healing ingredient, like allantoin, urea, uric acicr, r incorporated in hand and body creams to enhance granulation of rlr,. skin. A bacteriocideis incorporatedto prevent bacterialinfection ofrlr, skin. In modern type of creams,alkyl estersof polyunsaturatedC1g fatrr acids, linoleic acid and linolenic acid are addedto preventscaling of rl,, skin surface. As these preparations are mainly oil-in-water type emulsions, ()rl evaporation these leave the skin feeling relatively non-oily and n,rr sticky. creams or lotions based on natural or synthetic film formers ar. not popular because on evaporation of water the preparations beconr,. sticky due to increase in concentration of gum. However. this can lrt. prevented by presenceof humectant. Since these creams and lotions contain water and materials that art. highly prone to decompositionby rnicrobialcontamination,they must bt. protected against such contamination and thus addition of preservativcs is a must. The selectionof preservativesshould be such thai thev shoukl

83

;!l tr i I l l l AM S

E !

gives an extra edgeto f'er,lrrrl'p,!ttl'oolour is a fascinatingthing' It colours l'. lr()ltrconsumeracceptancepoint.of view' Though ft ;,r,,,lrrr body and for hand == r,,t r,,,1 rrr ltand creams but can be selected blue, red' are :=4,,,: \',il r()Uscolours which are consideredacceptable = !r,, " r t r' (' n i n di ffere ntshades. can be of various naturesI lr.'., prr'gt:ttlrtions tl t I t,lttitl crelms: Consistencyis of liquid nature' r 'r ,\i,,lrtlcrenms : Consistencyis higher' type: Not containingany aqueousmedia' r t1 Nrtrr'ttqtteous are also l:plr'ntl proccdure for manufacturing As these creams prepared are they phase' aqueous and tr 1,,'contzriningoil phase :;::,rr=i,,il temp-erature :. ',,.trir|, ,rr lrcating both the phasesseparatelyto same Perfume is formed' is cream till i ,rri',n1'rvillt continuousstiriing -==. a good for done is milling ..tfe*l rll, r ,ooliltg the product' Finally .'==l i l tF

LIQUID CREAMS Fo r m u l a 3 5 l';opropyl mYristate Mirrcral oil

t

S t t 'r r r i ca c i d I r r r r r l s i l y i n gw a x | ;rrtolin il

3.0 gm 1.0 gm 84.225gm q.s. q"s.

{ ilyccrin I r ie thanolamine Wr t t c t I 't 'r l i t l n e

aqueous phase rvhereaspropyl ester is dissolved in oil phase. Butyi ester may be used in place of propyl ester in same concentration. choice of a perfume for use in hand and body creams is basedsoleiy on aesthetic value. Proper perfume increasesacceptanceof the product. But perfurne should not be excessiveor too strong. perfumes should bc compatible with other ingredients and stabilize the preparations. perfumes from different sourcescan be selected. (l) Synthetic aromatics like phenylethyl alcohols, geranoil, pine, hydroxycitronellal,amyl cinnamic aldehyde. (2) Essential oils like geranium bourbon, rose de mai absolute. lavender. (3) Compounded perfume oils of a liliac type, light floral type are also used.

4.0 gm 2.0 gm 3.0 gm 0.275gm 2.5 gm

I 'rt 's c r v a t i v e Formula 36 t

t ilyccrol monostearate t 'r 't y l a l c o ho l : l i l i c o r r r :o i l l ; r r r o l i r to i l \ 1 r : r r rt l 0 I rvt:ctt (r0

ll

l-,othitol solution (70%o) W: t l t 't -

2.7 gm 1.5 gm 1.5 gm 2.0 gm 0.5 gm 2.5 gm 10"0gm 19.3 gm

84

A H A N D B OOK OF C OS MIIIII '

Perfume Preservative

F.f i

q.s. q.s.

Alcohol Water l)erfume l)reservative(onlY methYl parahydroxy benzoate)

Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' separately. Mix 'B' to .A' wrtl, continuous stirring. cool while stirring. Add preservative with stirrrrrl, when cooled to 35oC. SOLID CREAMS Formula 37

A. Stearicacid Isopropylmyristate Potassiumhydroxide

15.0gm 2.0 gm 1.0gm

B. Sorbitolsolution(70%) Water Perfume Preservative

18.3grn 63.7 gm q.s. q.s.

Formula 38 Cetyl oleyl ethoxylate

12.0 gm 73.5 gm q.s. q.s.

Mix l rlliolvc preservative in glycerin with gentle heat if required' perfume' glycerin and lhe trngnt'itttit, *itlt the alcohol and add the slowly, part by solution the add and water in acid tllae,rlvt. lltc boric paste, with gentle stirring' ir*l tl tlrc lragacanth Formula40

2.0 gm 10.0gm 0.2 gm 87.8gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

'l'ragacanth Glycerin 'l'itanium dioxide Water l)erfume Clolour l)reservative

Melt stearic acid and isopropyl myristate and potassium hydroxirl,. with stirring. Keep it at 75"C. Heat components of .B' at sarrrt. temperature and mix with 'A' with continuous stirring. Add perfurnt. when cooled to 35oC.

A.

b h t N ( l {l i A M S

9.0 gm

Polyethyleneglycol 400 monostearate 14.0 gm

Mineral oil Siliconeoil Paraffin wax Petroleumjelly Isopropylmyristate B. Water Perfume Preservative

12.0gm 1.0 gm 8.0 gm 4.0 gm 8.0 gm

NON-AQUEOUSTYPE For m ula4l wax l)araffin l'ctroleumjellY I)erfume

46.0 gm q.s. q.s

Formula42 l,anolin (lcresin wax Amber resin l)araffin wax l'ctroleumjellY

Heat components of A andwaterseparately at75"C. Add waterto A with continuousstirring. Cool with stirringaddingperfumeat 35"C. JELLIES Formula39 Tragacanth Boric acid Glycerin

1.0 gm 1.5 gm 12.0gm

26.0 gm 74.0 gm q.s.

l'crfume

9.0 gm 18.0gm 4.5 gm 18.5gm 50.0gm q.s.

point' lrlell rrrtd rnix the material in increasing order of melting about at mass Ferllrlre:,lrottld be added last after cooling the mixed t i "l

86

A H A N D B OOK OF C OS MTJII( .

Fh i

non-aqueoustype preparationsalso, sometime,chlorophyll, tnir:,rr _In mallow leaves, essential oils, turpentine oil, eucalyptus oil, etc. can rr,. added.

-ihil,r

8',7

( lUiAMS

rri|er trlrr..,iuc also used as can be seen from the following formulaeFormula43 Wool alcohols Ilard parafhn White soft paraffin l.iquid parafhn l'crfume Antioxidant

(s) ALL_PURPOSE CREAMS In recent times there has been a tremendous increasein the consunrlr tion of preparations which are normally known as al-purpose crear),, These were also known as ,sports cream' as they *"r" ,r.d by sport, men in skii'g and outdoor activities. They are somewhat oilv brrr non-greasy type and can spread easily on the skin to give a protectiv,. film. They can also function, when applied excessively, as a skinfood ,,, nourishing cream' or night cream or protective cream for prevention .r alleviation of sunburn, or for the treatment of roughenei skin area, Also, when applied sparingly, they function as hand creams or founda. tion creams. Thus they are called as all_purposecreams. So, the composition of these creams is such that it can act-(a) As a foundation cream to provide a fbundation base for makc. up.

6.0 gm 24.0 gm 10.0gm 60.0 gm q.s q.s

trl,lr rlrt. irbove ingredientstogether and stir until cold. Add perfume sher ,,rr,lr'rlro 35"C with stirring' An equal amount of water can be rdJr,l tr, llrrs baseto form the cream known as hydrous ointment' Formula 44

(b) As a cleansingcream and liquefy easily. (c) As a hand cream and should have emollient

A

2.5 gm Wool alcohols Microcrystallinewax (m.p. 140'-145"F) 6.0 gm 21.0 gm Mi ner al oil 5.0 gm I'clroleumjellY

It

( i l yce r in Magnesium sulPhate Water l'crfume Mcthyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate I'ropyl ParahYdroxYbenzoate llrrtylatedhYdroxYanisole

character. (d) As a protective cream and should form a continuous non-occlusive film. (e) As a cream to smooth the rough surface of the skin.

.

Composition

5.0 gm 0.7 gm 59.8gm q.s q.s. q.s q.s

t o 75'C' Add'B't o'A' s 'A'and'B' separ at ely l l l rl rorttl l otl entof Add perfumewith 45"C. about at Homogenize d itlr r rntllrotts stirring. cream' making before of 'B' water in +tifrirrp Atltl prcservative

These preparationsare mainly based on woor arcohols, which consisl of the alcoholic fraction obtained by saponification of the grease of the wool of sheep and contain not less than2gyo of cholesteror. Its varue as a water-in-oil emulsifier is due to the properly of absorption of water. But this character can be lost due to oxidation and thus an antioxidant, like hydroxyanisole, is to be used. If oxidation occurs water _butylated can be lost from the base and can seep out. As these preparations need to spread easily, microcrystalline wax can be used. Minerat oils, paraffin are used to get protective layer. Magnesium sulphate is used to enhancethe stability of the creams by the p."r"n"" of magnesium ions in aqueous phase. Methyl and propyl parahydroxy benzoates can be used as preservatives to prevent microbial groMh. Suitable perfumes are also to be added. The preparations are normally water-in-oil but the

Formula45 ,,\

I lartolite ('ctyl alcohol Microcrystalline wax l,iquid paraffin

It

( i l ycer in Magnesium sulPhate W l ter l )crfu m e I'rcservative A rrtioxidant

t

3.75 gm 0.75 gm 7.60 gm 19.70gm 2.60 gm 0.70 gm 64.90 gm q.s q.s q.s.

88

A TIANDBOOKOF COSME'I'I('T

Heat and melt componentsof 'A' at75oc and also heatcomponerrrr of 'B' to sametemperature.Mix 'B' with 'A' with constantitirring Homogenizeand cool to 40oc and add perfumewith stirring. The ab.ve is an exarnpleof, o/w generalpurposecream. Formula46

A. Stearicacid Lanolin Beeswax Mineral oil Myrj 52

15.0gm 2.0 gm 2.0 gm 24.0 gm 5.0 gm

B. Sorbitalsolution Water Perfume Preservative Antioxidant

10.0gm 42.0 gm q.s q.s q.s

Heat and mix components of 'A' at above75.c. Add preservative trr water and sorbital solution and heat to 75oc. Mix 'B' to .A' witlr continuousstining. Cool and add perfumewhile stining. Formula47 A. Wool alcohol Cholesterol Petroleumjelly Paraffin wax Mineral oil Sorbitansesquioleate

1.0gm 1.5gm J.5 gm 5.0 gm 20.0 gm 1.0 gm

B. Glycerin Magnesiumsulphate Water Perfume Preservative Antioxidant

5.0 gm 0.5 gm 58.5 gm q.s q.s. q.s

Heat componentsof 'A' and 'B' independently to 75oC. Add ,B, kr 'A' slowly with continuousstirring. when temperpture has comedown to 45"c passthrough homogenizer.continue stirring to cool to 35o(, and add perfume. Preservative shouldbe addedin wa-terof ,B'.

CREAMS

89

6ote productsare usedwidely and for variouspartsof the body, cvaluationand quality controlis essential. ftom generaltestslike quantitativeand qualitativedeterminaInjrodlents,someothertestsare important. lhrology : Rheology is very important as these creams are ln tubes or containers. The rheology or viscosity should nonttont. As these productsare normally non-newtonianin frc vlscositycan be measuredusing viscometersusedfor such funrltlvity : As various types of ingredientsare used with ft urc of antiseptics,hormones,etc., there is a possibility of of the skin. This should be tested or photose-nsitization 'Ihis test is normallydoneby patchtest on skin and can be or occlusive. The test sample is applied alongwith a mtrkct productat different placesand effect is comparedafter a

tf tlmc. tlologlcal testing : This is particularlyessential fof products lntiseptics,hormones,vitamins,etc.

r r l l t',r l t l r l r N I'R EPAR ATI O N S

IGG

CHAPTER-6

SunscreenPreparations

9l

and =il aflr, r.,l tt:lls is responsiblefor the dilation of blood vessels can proliferation of the basal cells of the skin for =; rlerl,r iitrrrrrrlation leads only not =!..,,,., ,rr lr is also known that excessivesolar radiation radiatiOn :. j ,li:.qil,.rtrOil [o cancgrbUt tO Skin CanceritSelf. EXCeSSiVe t' .!;,trrr1, vi rami n D pr esentin skin f at and pr oducessom e t oxic ,rlrrrlr irr the long run causethe connectivetissueof the corium :!=r{,iJ.. r,vlrichis manifestedin a coarseningof the skin relief and !.. rleErrrr.r,rtt. F.rl rati rrr ,,1 rvr i ttkl gs.

Sunlight reaching the surface of the earth contains visible r{s (rrrrl wavelength between 400 mp-740 mp), rays with shorter wavclr.rrlrr, (280 mp-400 mp) called ultraviolet, and rays with longer wavelt.rrl,rt, (750 mp- 5300 mp) called infrared. Ultraviolet rays, particularly r,,rt, wavelength below 320 mtrt,are responsible for most of the therapeutr, , well as noxious effects that we attribute to sunlight. The ovcr,,ti beneficial effects as well as harmful effects of sun rays on the hrrrrr,,, body depend on the length and frequency of exposure, intensity ot rl,, sunlight and sensitivity of the individual concerned. Lower the n;i', length, more the energy of the rays. These rays stimulateblood circulation in the derma,causethe clcr,I opment of vitamin D from provitamins, through the activatiorr ,,r 7-dehydrocholesterol,contained in skin fat. Sunshine increasesrl,, formation of haemoglobin and may also promote a decreasein frr,,,,,i pressure. These rays are also supposedto shift the redox potential ol rrr, epidermal tissue towards more intensive reduction, which, in turrr I believed to lead to an activation of various vitamins, hormones",r,,1 enzymes and a favourable effect on the visceral nervous system. srrn rays have been used in the treatment of tuberculosis of some glar,l bones and skins and also in the treatmentof skin psoriasis. Sunligrir, also known to exert a beneficial influence on the autonomous nerv(,rl system and reduce the susceptibility to infections. Moderate exposur(,r,, sunshine produces better psychological feelings, sense of fitness rr,,l peace of mind. Sun rays cause thickening of the skin by producr,,1, melanin which increasesthe body's naturalprotectivemechanismagairr,r sunburns. On the other hand solar irradiation is damagingin case of excessrr, exposure. It can have short term and long term adverseeffects. It ni:rr cause sunburn with symptoms of mild irritation to serious inflammarr,,r, from a slight erythema to blistering on skin. There can be shiverii,r, fever and nausea, and sometimes pruritus. Releaseof histamine by tlr,

90

tr,rrrrr1,tlrr. latent period preceding the appearanceof effects of of r::rF'lrr. t,lr.locltemicaldegraclationproducts formed by the effect radical free of series a off trigger to irr,r,lr,rti()il believed are :*l*r iEr ti'rr l,,rilrrrl',to the formation of the biologically active substances diffuse into tire dermal blood vesselsand produce the =lri,t, rrltrrrr,rlt.ly :1rilrl=rrrlrt'r:;t'syrnptomsmentionedabove. ll,- | rr,r$'lt'tlgc of long-termhazardsof sun-rayshas led to manufacr=rirrp,rl ,r \,r'r:rloosllleticpreparationsto protectthe skin from sun rays' | ,.=rrr.lrr1,r,'Prtt;ttions should protect the skin as effectively as possible E;,fi, rlrr rr(,\r()useffects of radiation without reducing the beneficial l i ()n agai n stult r avioletr ays is also occasionallyr equir ed = ti .,ri l ,r,rtt.t =i:iiu,l,r,trr p;rrlicttlarly clrugindustry' mountaineering,and armed forces' ttf this effect has led to suggestion to incorporate i t+c I rr,,rrl,'rlp,,-: r.!ri:,r. r,,, rr rttllke-up bases, face porvders' creams and after shave in alcohol and silicone oil afford i.,riilr,= | rlilryclroxybenzophenone =+.pilfIt |lrillt.ttion for people highly photosensitive"Presentlyseveral have launchedcold or vanishing creamsor lotions = :rrret.ir, r,ntP:tttics ,..r ,1 r i r r i l r l '

l l l l " ( 'l ( 'C n

agen t s .

rt-r, l,r, l):rtirtionsare used to achieve suntan faSter to inCreaSemore a .t.'l :!l l "l l

Fl,tettlr, il4i,il *l4i,r=l

M t t 'h a n i s m of th e Ski n l\\'(l lactors are responsible for natural protection of skin 'rillrtllll

(l I llriekncssof the stratumcon"leuln r ' I I' rrrnr:ti tation of t he skin i' li., 1,,r'rr rt:l)oltedthal thickening of the stratum corneum occurs i: r il, r r r,l solar irracliationby increasingrnitotic rate nf epidermal of erythemogt-nic to the passag'e rlrrr',rrrrkingit mnre itnperviousr -,,,,==i,,,', |

alst' iilCreaseSthe !, | , rrr rrrcl;rninCcntent of the epiCler"lr,iS of ef caLI ges Cessf q; nr 3: 11in . ,' t," \\' ' r ' rl !l .c Skl, - 1.t i\ l r aeliat i, Dn

I II

92

A HANDBOOK OF COSNII

'

I

melanin which migrates upward towards stratum corneum and llr( 1" surface and thus increases the resistance. Suntan prep?rotions "r't facilitate this excess formation of melanin. Principle of Effectiveness of Sunscreens r'1rl It is a fact that the exposureof unprotectedskin to sunlight 1111 in sunbttrtt ,,'' produces the desired therapeuticeffect but also results ihe subsequentpeeling off of the comeal layer is a cosmetic problerl I' principle, this problem can be treated in different ways. (l) A protective layer can be provided to the skin that prevcrrl, rl'' UV-rays to reach the skin either by absorbing or by reflecting llr' ," Some of the materials used in powders do actually reflect a c('rl''" amount of UV-rays and are thus incorporated in suntan pt€porlrlr,rr'; Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide both have such property but the lirrrr," is better than the laffer. Preparationsreflecting UV-rays zlrevery t'll" tive and used widely. However, these preparationshave the disadvrrrrr',;. of eliminating the beneficial rays along with the harmful ones.

;

ti

(4) Substancesthat cause or acceleratetanning of the skin crtrrt'' applied. Dioxyacetone causestanning by forming a brown complex * 'rl' the keratin of the corneal layer. 8-methoxypsoralene when lrrl,." 10-20 rng internally 2 hours before exposure to the sun, accelct;tt,, tannins and avoids sunbum.

SUNBURN PREPARATIONS Cosrneticsunbum anctrsuntanpreparationsmay be classifiecl','r, three groups: (1) Sunscreeri preparations (2) Palliativespreparations (3) Sinrulativepreparations

93

ll ; \urrscreen Preparations I lrr':;t:are the most important group of preparations. Sunscreens =lr,,lhl t.itlrer scatterthe incident light effectively, or they should absorb rly t.rytlrctlal portion of the sun's radiant energy. Various factors other tlrrrrrllrt. tluration of exposureare also to be taken into account' For Flryul'lc, background is important. Snow has a better effect on the as it reflects a higher proportion of ultraviolet radiationthan Irrrlrvrtlrr;rl ( )paque powder materials, either used in dry state or in a vehicle, -r1r{l ,rrll ',t'rvcto scatterthe ultravioletlight falling upon them' Of them zinc ,rrrrlt. i:j rnost effective and superior to titanium dioxide. Other less r.llr'rtivt: substancesare kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium oxide, trrlr t.tr Particle size of these substancesin these preparationsis also an l ri l l )')tl i i l l l factor.

llrc iclcal sunscreenagent should have the following characters( | ) Absorb light preferentialiy over the range of 280 mp-320 mp' {.') l}e stableto heat, light and perspiration' ( l) lle non-toxic and non-irritant.

(2) To incorporate substancesin preparations to filter the sttrrr.,'by absorbing medium range UV-rays (280 mp-320 mp) but allon rr,g rays of higher wave lengths to pass. All modern suntan preparatiorr',.r'* based on this principle arrd contain such substances. (3) Biologically effective substancescan be used effectively 1o 1". vent symptoms of inflammation without reduction of tanning. As alt, ',1' mentionedearlierthat damageof the cells by sunbum liberateshislittrr,',. in the tissues, attempts have been made to treat it with antihistarrrr,"' substancesto avoid inflammation. Because of their ?flti-inflamnt;rl,'rr action, hydrocarbons and fluorocarbons may be useful in treating .rr', burn but they are not recommended in suntan preparations.

',I INS('REEN PREPARATIONS

',

('l) Not be rapidly absorbed. t" ) l l c neutral . trr) lle readily soluble in suitablevehicles. llrcro are numerous substances which are suitable for use as ;rtlll\(

.

l L'CIlSi

( | ) l)ara-aminobenzoicacid, its derivatives and glyceryl esters,like cthylpara amino benzoale,glyceryl para-amino benzoate,etc' ( ') Salicylates,like amyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, etc. (l) (linnamic acid derivatives, like benzyl cinnamate, menthyl cinnamate,etc. t,l) l)ihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives tr) 'frihydroxy cinnamic acid derivatives ((r) Certain hydrocarbons ( /) l)ibenzalacetoneand benzalacetophenone (x) l)ihydroxy-napthoic acid and its salts (')) Coumarin derivatives t lo) I)iazolesand triazoles t I l) Quinine salts t | -l) Quinine derivatives

94

A HANDBOOK OF COSMI ilr

(13) Uric and violuric acids (14) Tannic acid derivatives (15) Hydroquinoneetc.

l i

I

/

I

j

some other compounds also have been reported to be effective :;r,,, screens. They are hydrazines of ortho- or para-aminobenzaldehyde,rrr,,i of ortho- and para-aminoacetophenones. Also acetylated ami.,, cinnarnates, a reaction product of carbethoxyethyr-triethoxysilaneu,irr, p-aminobenzoic acid, have been reported to be useful as sunscreen. As all the above substancesare of low molecular weight, they rrr, quickly removed from the skin with water, necessitatingrepeatedapPrr cation. This led to the developmentof water-insolublebut alkali-solrrlrl, polymeric sunscreens.Thesepolymers are producedby reactingat lcrr,,r two essentialco-monomers. (l)

ll

An ethylenically unsaturatedcompound, capable of absorbirrl, ult r av i o l e t ra d i a ti o n . l i k e c e rta i n substi tuted acryl art.,, methacrylates,benzoates,ethers of 2,4-dihy droxybenzopheno rr,. 2,2,4-Irihydroxybenzophenone, and ethers of benzotriaz,t, derivatives.

(2) An acidic co-monomer, an ethylenically unsaturatedcarboxrrr, acid containingat leastone free carboxyl group like acrylic aci,l methacorylicacid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, etc. These polyrneric sunscreens have been found to be resistftfll r. removal by fresh or sea-water. But they can be removed easily b1, ., slightly alkaline solution like soap-waterrvhich conveftswater-insolulrl, polymer to water-solublealkaline salts due to presenceof free carboxr lic acid group. Different sunscreen agents are used in different concentratr.rr accordingto their effectiveness.Sorneare used in higher eoucentrailorr 6-BYoand others at low concentrations like 2vo. suitabie base can be used to make a final product of an aqueous,,, aicoholic lotion, a fa@ cream, oil, or an emulsion" 'rhe vehicle ;rr,r selection ol- other cornponentsof the procluct may contribute to r eff-ecf iveness. certain natural oils such as coconut oii, peanut , ,,r muster-seedciil and olive oil have a fairly high absorptionabilit_r,ol'i iight, bur mineral oil cloesnot ha'e such property. An antioxidant * be irrcorp,:ratedif a naturai oii is used to ;rreventranciditv, lrffecti""ehasc:g;:a.n be preparedLr1,using lnixturesof natura!oils ,r ;nineraj oils. or by.' blending these with fatty acid Bljferrisu/,1,

L**=:,.

r &ts ,:ril,,r t(titrNPREPARATIoNS

95

i:'. fri,'l'\ l1r;rlrrrilate.Some effective protection from sunbum is also yi,,.i,lr,l I'y white or yellow petroleum jelly and lanolin. All these FrE F4i ' rrr' ,| | ,;conta' n som e per f um e and pr eser vat ive,if r equir ed. | il r a=i'il;rllVcoloursare also used. llrr' 1r1,111111'1 can be simple oil type, creamtype, lotion type, aqueous * * l rri i ul tl pt' , gel typ e. lrlsa rrl I'r.ocedurefor Manufacturing llr,-',, prt:lrarationscan be aqueous or oily solutions, creams or hrtion and gel type, the generalmethod will be different. Erinrl.!i',r. Fr,r111111111 types, aqueousor oily, can be preparedsimply by mixing lrc,ltr',,lvirrg the sunscreenand other ingredientsin the vehicle, i.e., +dlFr,,r ,'rl, l)crfumeshould be added all of last. I rFirnr l)rcparationsare emulsion type and are prepared by taking irrgrerlrr=rrtr ol'oil phase and aqueous phase separatelyand heating to lirlrrll ,rr tlissolveall ingredientsand then mixing them together with stirring till the cream is produced. Perfumeshould be added ',irttrr,'u,, 1flsl , rr'lrrr11the cream to near room temperatureand milling further. lrrrr,rr., can be solutions or emulsion type and can be prepared **rrr1111t';t (iels are highly viscous aqueouspreparations.Thickening rgent rr rlispcrsed in water separately. Other ingredients are mixed irrperlrrriul(l dissolvedin water. Then the dispersionof thickening agent ie rri.ll n,itlr otherswith stirring to preparegel. '.,rrrrr'rrsclirlformulaeare mentionedbelow: OIL TYPE Formula I I lomomenthyl salicylate Mineral oil l)erfume

8.0 gm 92.0 gm q.s.

For m ula2 I lornomenthyl salicylate Mineral oil Isopropyl myristate l'crfume

8.0 gm 80.0 gm 12.0 gm q.s.

Formula 3

lsopropylmyristate Antiviray

90.0 gm 10.0gm

I h F

;!IIIII.t I( IIl N


Mcl hyl parahydroxy benzoate I'ropyl parahydroxybenzoate

q.s q.s q.s

Perfume Colour Preservative

Water Perfume Methyl parahydroxy benzoate Propyl parahydroxy benzoate

Formula7 mYristate lsopropyl Antiviray l'oilct spirit I' crl ume ('ol our (alcohol-soluble)

A

8.0 gm 7.5 gm 2.0 gm 5.0 gm

Stearic acid Isopropyl myristate Abracol PGS (emulsifuing agent)

A

8.0 gm 1.7 gm 6.0 gm 3.5 gm 0.8 gm 80.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

B. Triethanolamine Water Perfume Preservative Colour

ll

Tween Cetyl alcohol Isopropyl myristate Mineral oil B. Glycerin Water Perfume

For m ula8 l ri l trosolA 1000 Mineral oil Stearicacid I'araffin wax lleeswax l'ctroleumjelly S i l i conefluid l'olyethylene glycol monostearate

5.0 gm 10.0gm 2.0 gm 1.0 gm 2.0 gm 5.0 gm 8.0 gm 5.0 gm

l'riethanolamine Water I)erfume l)reservative

2.0 gm 60.0 gm q.s. q.s.

of 'A' to a temperature of about 70"C' Heat llflrt rrrp,.r'cdients ol''B' to Sametemperatureand add slowly to the mixture of iirgrr,lrr.rrt:; { ',lrr rrrrtilcool. Add perfume when the temperaturecomes down to

Formula6 A . Antiviray

2.0 gm 10.0gm 88.0gm q.s. q.s.

I tr,,u,,lvcrtttttvtray in isopropyl myristate. Dissolveperfume and .rrl um l rt ^.pi ri t. Mi x b ot h.

5.00 gm 72.50gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Formula5

A. Antiviray

q.s'

LOTION TYPE

CREAM TYPE

B. Glycerin

q.s.

rllr lol,r.tlrct.the ingredientsof 'A' and heat at about 70"c. In a :=t'4fdt.v,",'.cldissolvethe preservativesin the glycerin with the aid of i:itle hF:rl Arltl the remaining ingredientsof 'B' and heat it to about jl I A,Ll rnixture of 'B' to 'A', slowly with continuousstirring. Stir .ri rti lr rr' 1.,r,Ll i rtgthe per f um eat about 30oC.

Isopropyl myristate may be replaced by isopropyl palmitate. Preparation is simply. by solution technique. Mix the perfume, colour, preservative with isopropyl myristate and sunscreenagent with oil and mix both together.

Formula4 A. Homomenthyl salicylate Non-ionic emulsifier (tween) Mineral oil Spermaceti

97

PI{EPARA TI O N S

5.0 gm 7.5 gm 1.0 gm 15.0gm 17.0gm

cE rttl Ii "(

.

AQUEOUS SOLUTION TYPE Formula9 7.0 gm l;iltrosol B 0.5 gm Methyl cellulose

1.0 gm 54.5 gm q.s.

t-i

98

A TIANDBOOKOF COSMEI'I(:

2.0 gm 10.0gm 80.5 gm q.s

Glycerin Ethyl alcohol Water Perfume

Dissolve filtrosol 'B' in ethyl alcohol and methyl cellulose in watcr and glycerin mixture. Mix the two parts. Methyl cellulose is added t,, increasethe viscosity.

r h l,

99

STJNSCREEN PREPARATIONS

I'rrlliative preparations are either aqueous solutions or oil-in-water errrrrlsionsand should be able to produce both protective and cooling *llct:[ to relieve the sunburn. These preparationsshould not be greasy or illy bccausethey will retard the antiseptic effect as the antisepticswill ,,,,1l,.r irble to mix with secretionsto prevent bacterial growth' I hcse sunburn correctives are generally familiar as calamine or

Formula l0

FiltrosolB Distilled extractof witch hazel Propyleneglycol Water Perfume Watersolubledye Methyl parahydroxybenzoate

5.0 gm 10.0gm 10.0gm 75.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Dissolve the preservative in propylene glycol and add the remaining ingredients. Mix well. GEL TYPE F o rmu l al l Carboxy vinyl polymer Propylene glycol l'riethanolamine Filtrosol B Water Perfume Methyl parahydroxy benzoate

2.0 gm, 9.0 gm 1.5 gm 5.0 gm 82.5 gm q.s. q.s.

Dissolve the sunscreenagent (filtrosol B) in a small portion of water. Dissolve carboxy vinyl polymer in the triethanolamineand gradually add the main proportion of water. Eissolve the preservativein the propylene glycol and add to the earlier mixture. Then add the solution of sun screen agent. When the gel is uniform add the perfume. (2) Palliative Preparations These preparations are used for the relief of initation and other problems resulting from sunbum. As sunbum causes damage to skin cells, in several cases it can be as serious as steam burn, there is always a possibility of secondary bacterial infection. So, all these preparations should also be antiseptic.

qnr,,ilivcarea of skin. Formula 12

Calamine Zinc oxide Camphor Alcohol Glycerin Rose water Methyl parahydroxY benzoate

15.0gm 5.0 gm 1.0 gm 10.0gm 10.0gm 59.0 gm q.s.

Mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth paste with the glycertn. ltilrv ildd suffcient amount of rose water to make a crearn. Dissolve the ililil|)ltot. in the alcohol and mix the cream and add water to volume. To g"r ,, lilvourable shadewith calamine a small amount of fenic oxide may lrr irtltlod.

Formula13 8'0 gm Zinc oxide 8'0 gm Preparedcalamine 7'0 gm glYcol400 Polyethylene glycol 400 monostearate3'0.gm Polyethylene 60'0 gm Lime water 14'0 gm Water q.s. Preservative tv'lix the powder materialsthoroughly and add polyethyleneglycol and add lime water to make a cream' with stining. ltlil ilr()nostearate

IOO

A HANDBOoKoF COSIuETICS

Add further lime water and make volume with water. preservative can be dissolved in water. Formula 14 Triethanolamine stearate Liquid paraffin Water Zinc phenosulphonate

4.8 gm 10.0gm 83.2 gm 2.0 gm

Mix triethanolamine stearate and liquid paraffin properly adding to water and heat it to 70"c with continuous trituration to achieve an emulsion.

A.

F o rmu l a1 5 Calamine Zinc oxide Mineral oil/vegetable oil Emulsiffing wax Camphor

B. Glycerin Rose water Methyl parahydroxy benzoate Propyl parahydroxy benzoate

10.0gm 5.0 gm 25.0gm 5.0 gm 1.0gm 5.0 gm 49.0 gm q.s. q.s.

Mix the emulsiffing wax and mineral oil and heat it to about 70"C. Take water preheated ar 70oc and add to the first mixture with continuous stirring to prepare a cream. Dissolve the preservative and camphor in the glycerin and mix the calamine and zinc oxide to a smooth naste. Add water to a creamy consistencyand mix with previously prepared cream. (3) Simulative Preparations They are also termed as artificial suntan preparations. There is a good demand of such preparationsto obtain a suntan. The purpose of enhanced colour may be to prevent skin damage by absorption of erythemal radiation or to indicate the well-being of the health. An artificial suntan normally is obtained by staining of the skin, whatever may be the purpose. Though several natural materials, like walnut juice, olive oil extract or cudbear and henna, were used from ancient times for skin stain, they are not favourable nowadays. Now mainly synthetic staining materials are used. (a) Systemic suntan : Some substanceshave been found to increase pigmentation and thus producing suntan. The need to speed up the rate

rb€

ht rN 5('l (l i l l N P R E P AR A TION S

101

the active af alilr tirrrrrirrgled to try out such substances. Psoralens, folk-mediEgyptian ancient an rrirEtlllr'nts isolated from ammimajus, pigmentation and thus tanning' 'iile lr,rvc bcon reported to enhance has {ll,rrp',1 tlrt:scalkoxypsoralensand-particularly 8-methoxypsoralen administraoral for formulation, l,ee,r.,t,'tr:;ivcly studied and a tablet of ,rf l{ rrrcrhoxypsoralenhave been marketed in USA' Ingestion 11,11i of exposure on pigmentation tlt !l lrt,ol this substanceled to increased rl i fi l rr ' ,rrrrl i gl w rt i thi n 2 - 4 hour s. can be obtained by lhl Slnining preparations : An artificial suntan like it€intrl, tlt., skin with some chemical substances' Chemicals produce to used are etc' erythrulose juglone, lawsone, ,lihr,lr,,ry:rtctone, I =Frl l l rr'l l l i tnent

stai n.

white crystI Ittltwlroxyqcetone (l-3-dihydroxy-2-propanone) is a It is a taste' sweet a and odour r+llilr lrrrwtlcr with a characteristic skin in present acids, amino itqrrlnp ;rgcnt and it reacts with certain application' after hours 3-6 IEl4tilr. iilr(l produces a brown stain within is not lhe , rrlrrutis I'urtherincreasedby exposureto light' If application even an get To staining' ql.,1r.1,r'ltctly it can produce an uneven lf emulsion' as formulated ,,rd staini.tj, it can preferablybe .g3,1,,,,t,,,,, to stabilize glycol a i* ,'',,',1rrssolution, the preparation should include 'give rhu a,,lrrliottand provide a continuousfilm' As this stain cannot incorporated be can ciri I'tillc(tion against sunburn, a sunscreenagent also for int,r tlrr' llrcparation to achieve a quick tanning effect and to 4'0o in 3'0 used Fi,,lr,lr,rrtrrgainstsunburn' Dihydroxyacetone'is Higher t .,t the solution is to be adjusted between 6'0-6'5' *i,,1 1,1 8'0 no I rifrrr'illr;rliotrat lower pH producespatchy staining' At pH above I rl rrur t' r prrtduted. (2-hydroxyI ii ) lttglone(5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone)or lawsone gives good I I l,rl,lrtlr:rquinone)in combination with dihydroxyacetone is obtained =[ainrrF lrrgloneis obtained from walnut shells and lawsone also isopropanol in 50Vo dihydroxyacetone of filflf r f lr'nnit. 307o solution F,,rffirffrnp.0.035% juglone or llawsone is normally used as artificial =r4iillil[',1lrcparation. in cosmetic trrrl l')n'lhrulose is also used as artificial staining agent according 0'5-10% used is It l,l-|rilirlr()n. lt is butane-1,3,4-triol-2-one' t,r llrr=rlcgt'ccof browning required. system ',lrrrrrirtgsubstancesare taken in a suitable solvent or vehicle marPreparations etc' sorbitol glycol, *irtrrrrinH alcohol, propylene cream For (emulsion)' type cream or !.t.,1 rrrc cither solutions

102

A HANDBOOK OF COSME] I( .

*I r

preparations suitableemulsifring agentsor surfaceactiveagentsshorr,l be selected' Also the preparationsshould have suitable pJrfumesu,,,r preservatives. Formula 16 Dihydroxyacetone Ethanol (95%) Sorbitol syrup (70%o) Boric acid powder Methyl parahydroxy benzoate Allantoin Water Perfume

4.0 gm 28.0 gm 3.0 gm 1.0 gm 1.0gm 0.3 gm 60.7 gm 2.0 gm

Dissolve the dihydroxyacetone in sorbitol syrup. Make the solutiorr _ of other things in water and add alcohor and mix with first part. Adjusr pH at 6.0 by addition of lactic acid. Formula lZ Dihydroxyacetone Propylene glycol Alcohol Water Perfume Methyl parahydroxy benzoate

3.0 gm 6.0 gm 3.0 gm 88.0 gm q.s. q.s.

the preservative and dihydroxyacetone in propylene ,Dissolve glycol and part of water. Add arcohol and perfume and remainder of iater. Mix and adjust the pH at 6.0 with the uaartion of lactic acid. LOTION TYPE Formula lg Sunscreenagent (water soluble) Dihydroxyacetone Propylene glycol Alcohol Water ,. Perfume Methyl parahydroxy benzoate

A. Mineral oil

10.0gm 3.0 gm 5.0 gm 25.0 gm 57.0 gm q.s. q.s.

EMULSION TYPE Formula 19

Non-ionic emulsifier (tween)

10.0gm 10.0gm

103

TI INS( I(IjIIN PREPARATIONS

It

l)ihydroxyacetone l'opyleneglycol Water Itorfume Mcthyl parahYdroxY benzoate l'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate

3.0 gm 6.0 gm 71.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Fornrula20 Sunscreenagent (oil soluble) Non-ionic surfactant(tween) llthylene glycol monostearate

10.0gm 2.5 gm 2.0 gm

l'ropyleneglycol I)ihydroxyacetone Water I)erfume Methyl parahYdroxYbenzoate I'ropyl parahydroxYbenzoate

8.0 gm 3.0 gm 74.5 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

r l ::r I 6 111

A

lI .

\lrr logcther ingredientsof 'A' and heat to 75oC' Dissolve the rllln,lr,ryrcctone and preservativesin propyleneglycol and water" Heat cont inuousst ir r ing. Cool while i t ,i 1,,,t(; 75.,C . A dd, B't o'A'wit h to .l-5oCand add perfurne' -ririint, I r rrl rrnl i oh \ . rrr ;rrty other preparations.identification and quantitative determirr,ltr,,ilr)l various ingredientsare essentialfor evaluation and quality ..,iltr,,1Poirrlof view. Apart from theseroutine tests sornespecialtests for thesetypes of products. ir, rl'., rrt:ccssary

t,. ,t,.t(.ililinccl and comparedwith any other standardsutrstance. tlt l'lrvthemal dosage : It is importantto estimatethe erythemally . nr r trvt. r''diation or F;-vitons/cm2,transmitted by a suntan preparation. |,1 (.rvthclnai energy is the prnduct of the soiar energy transrnitted

104

A FIANDBOOK OF COSMI llt

through the film ofsuntan preparation and the effectivenessfactor at tlnr wavelength. (3) Sunscreen index : This is evaluation of the relativ€ scr€cnrrr;: activity of the sunscreencompounds. This is measurementof extinctr,," coefficient (El'i.,,)

CHAFTER.T

at 308 mp wavelengthand comparisonwith otlr,r

308 mp is the peak wavelength for effective sunburn. (4) In-vivo skin testing : This is a direct test on animal sl r' particularly rabbit, the site normally used is either backsideor abdorn,,, as these sites have maximum sensitivity. Preparationsare applied or' , specific site and exposed to radiation along with a control unprotc(t, ,l site, for a specific period of time. The effectsare observedat the errrl,'t the period. Several factors or variables are to be taken care of durinl, tl,, test as they may influence the results. Such variables or factors.", radiation source, size of the test field, etc.

Hair have irr strrrl) and design hair preparationsit is very much essentialto and body the parts of l.rr.,rvl.:dgeof hair. Haii is one of the vital sebawith along , ,,n',itlcrcdto be accessorystructure of the integument r ,'r,rrsglands, sweat glands and nails' They are also known as epidermal ,lr,,u,,tives as they originate from the epidermis during embryological of rllvclopment. Hair is an important component of the overall appeal tlr,' lrtrinan body. Presenceof hair in odd place can make a negative of a ellr.t I, whereashair on head is a part of overall attraction and beauty or Irrrnurrrbeing. So, people take a lot ofcare of hair to make an impact i rgrpci tl . llnlr und Hair Follicles llclirre puberty the hair is mainly present on the scalp, the eyebrows places rrrrrtcyolashes,irrespectiveof sex. At puberty hair grows in other the lalr.iixillae, over the pubes in both sexes and in male as beard on from lirrc. 'Ihough all rnammals have hair but hair in man is different nl l rcts. I lairs can be found nearly all over the surface ofthe skin except over o,rrrrc.specificsites like the sides and soles of the feet, the palms of the lrrrntls,the sides of the fingers and toes' the lips, and portions of the ,'rtcrnal genitalia. There are about 50,00'000 hairs on the human body ,rrrrl ()8 per cent of them are on the general body surface and about l,(x),(x)0-1,20,000are on the head. Population density of normal adult rt.rrlJrhair is reported to be between 225 hair cm2 on average with uilrirrble.ung" o? 175-300 hair cm2. The rate of hair growth has been of rr'rrtcd to 6e varying with sites. Scalp and chin have highest rate per mm A"27-0'40 p.rowtlr. The rate of growth of scalp hair is between ,t,,y 'l'he growth rate of axillary hair is nearly same' The growth rate l,,r lrair on Uody surface is about 0'2 mm per day' Though the daily vilriations of temperature have no effect on the growth rate but the study there rrrrlit:utcdhigher growth rate of beard in summer than winter. Also in hair r.; (lnc study report which indicated that the growth of scalp 105

106

A HANDBOoKoF cosMll.nl, f h,

women is faster than men. The growth rate of scalp hair is more rr, young and adults and declines in old ase. Cuticlecovering hair shaft Sebaceous gland

Medulla

Connectivetissue Glassy membrane

i l A tR

t0'l

( l ) l lrt: internal root sheath that surrounds the hair root and the rlct:pcrportion of the shaft. I lrc cxternal root sheath that extends from skin surface to the l rrri rrnatri x.

t 't

r 1) | lrc glassy membrane,a thickened basementmembrane wrapped irr a dense connective tissue sheath. frr tlrc ;rrlult integument there are two types of hair-

Externalroot sheath Rool hair plexus

lnternalroot sheath

Fig. 7-1 Schematic structure ofcross_section ofhair Hair production is 'a processof mutual inv.lvement of both dermi:; and epidennis and originatesfrorn hair foilicres. A schematicstructurt.
| | ) Vcllums hairs : These are the fine peach fuzz hairs located over r*rrr, lr ,'l tlrc:body surface. tl) 'l'crminal hairs: These are heavy, more deeply pigmented,and €*rrFlrnrcscurly. Examplesare hairs on head, including eyebrowsand F l F l ttl l tr " l

I lrlr)ur of hairs can vary from person to person. This reflects dtllFrnr('cs in structure and variations in the pigment produced by rrrFldr.(ytcs at the hair papilla. Though these characteristicsare geneti,cllr rL'tcrrrrined, but hormonal and environmentalfactorscan influence tfrc r.rrrlirions of the hair. with increasingage, pigment production rlFrrFrrir'\ :rrrd the hair colour lightens towards gray. white hair is the reallt rrl t:ornbination of a lack of pigment and the presence of air htrilrL.r within the medulla of the hair shaft. But this change in ei,lrlrrrli()llis gradualas the hair is dead and inert. Alrrrrt liom keratin, it also contains a small amount of uric acid. | rs irlso varied according to the mineral content. In brown hair 'Lrlr thererr titrllon, nitrogen, hydrogen, phosphorus,sulphur and water. Iron ' "rrlrrrf is rrrore in red hair. Normally carbon content is about 44yo lri, lr r.; rrrurethan othqr elements. I xl r l furnsof ,H ai r llirrr lurs several important functionsI I ) | lrc hair on the head protect the scalp from ultraviolet light, trrslrion round the head. and ir.sulatethe skull. t')

lrycbrows protect the eye from small foreign particles and irrsr:cts.Also it diverts sweat from the eyes.

( | ) Vivrissae, the hairs, guarding the entrancesto nostrils and exterrrrl car canals filter the air and help prevent the entry of small irtst:ctsand foreign Particles. r.l) Ilrdy hair helps in evaporation of perspiration and draining of cxtcrnal water from the bodv.

108

A HANDBooK oF cosMETrcs

(5) Hair is also part of sensingfunction. As, to check a root hair plexusofsensorynervessurroundsthe baseofeach hair follicle, one can feel the movementof the shaft of even a single hair. This sensitivity acts as an early-warningsystemthat may help to prevent injury. It is responsiveto severalexternal stimulating conditions like rage, fear cold etc. and standserect when stimulatederector pili pull on thc follicles and force the hairs to standerect. Ailments of Hair There can be some ailments to the normal health of hair and can causetrouble. There can be problem in pigmentationand thus changing the colour of the hair. Baldnessor alopeciais one importantproblem and can be of different kinds. Baldnesscan occuras a resultofdeficiency ofdiet, ill health or certain operations. Common baldnessis of different type and occurs in maximumnumbers. In this the hair is lost graduallyand it usually starts at the crown and the temple. Common baldnessis normally inherited. It can be passedon by the motherto her sons. Dandruff is causedby skin irritation,diseaseor microbialinfection. In the first one it occursbecausethe stratumcorneumshedslarge scales which are visible. This can be due to excessivebrushing,or scratching, strong lotions and soft alkaline soapsusedto wash the hair. Thesecan harm the skin and break down the outer layer of the epidermis. The secondform of dandruff is due to disea^qe which causesthe large scales to fall on the shoulders. The more the headis scratched.the fasterthese scalesare produced. Stepsto Keep Hair Healthy (l) Wash the hair with mild shampooswhich are reinforced by active substances. Q) After shampooingtreat the hair with rinsing preparationsand setting lotions in order to impart the gloss and firmnessto it.

(3) Groom the hair with hair conditionersin order to make it elastic and protect it from deteriorationafter frequentpermanentwaving. (4) Preservethe hair and its growth by constantattention,using hair lotions and hair treatrnentpackscontainingactive substances.

*t,

ilAilr

109

ffrlr ('rre Preparations ln overcomeailmentsor otherproblemsof hair and also for decorallye nr heuutificationpurposesvarious hair care preparationsare widely c€crl 'l'lrc need or demandof such productshas increasedover the tcarr lt sharesa high portionof cosmeticproductsmarketed. All lhe hair careproductscan be classifiedin the following way and in the proceedingchaptersaccordingly. rlll In rliscussed (l) llalr cleansers: Variousshampooslike clear liquids,liquid gtimrr. solid creamsor gels, anti-dandruffshampoos,oil shampoos, pawrlerr,dry shampoos, etc. ll) Hrlr dressings: Anhydrousbrilliantines,pomades,hair oils, hair hair lacquers,alcohol-based htlr rreRrns,gum basedhair dressings, fdkrrrs,rcsinlotions,sprays. l.l! llnlr wayers, curlers and straighteners : Hot waving, cold *cvllrg, lepid waves,roller and pin perms,instantperms. ({l lhlr tonics : Preparations containingvarious substanceslike dcrivatives, vitamins,etc. €ul;rhur (t) lluir removers: Depilatories, epilatories. (6) llair dyes and bleaches(hair colorants) : Variousdyes and hlertlrIrrgpreparations. l7f Shavingpreparations:Soaps,creams.

TI

I I

I

I

I

rhr

1i

tiI

lll

r.') lr should effectivelywash the hair. t I t lt should produce a good amount of foam to satis$ the psychohrgical requirementsof the user. r'l I llrc shampoo should be easily removed by rinsing with water.

CHAPTER-8

ll

l A tR (' T.E A N SI NG pREpARATI O NS

Hair Cleansing Preparations

lt should leave the hair non-dry, soft, lustrous with good, man_ rrtrlcabilityand a minimum of fly-away. l r r ) It should impart a pleasant fragranceto the hair. {it

I ll

It should not make the hand rough and chapped. t l l l ll should not have any side effects or causesinitation to skin or (:yc

l i

llr. rrr:ri. problem of cleaning hair is removal of fat or greasewhich ,rnrls ;r g..d detergent. Availability of a wide range of synthetic Jerr.rF.rrr:; has led to a flood of products in the market. Detergent power ur lltr-t(.1tovalof dirt involves( l) 'Ihe ability of the detergent to wet both the dirt and the , substratehair fibre.

l I I I

SHAMPOOS

1.1) Lowering of interfacial tension to such a level that displace_ ment of dirt or greasematerials becomes easy. (i) Dispersion of dirt particles for easy washing and removal. lt .;clcc[ detergent(s)for using in shampoos,the following factors = l rl ttl rll rr'corrsi dere d( | ) Safety or non-toxicity 1.1) Fiaseof distribution and lathering power ( | ) l,ustre imparted to hair 1.1) tlase of combing wet hair ( \ ) Speed of drying 1{r), Haseof setting dry hair I onrpori ti onof S ham poos are the main component of shampoos. Mainly anionic "rrl;r(l;ults -"rtrlirrlirnlsare used. cationic, non-ionic and ampholytic surfactants hatr i tl .;osome use. The furictions of a sharnpoo are expectedto be various. A good an. accep able shampoo should have the fbllowing characteristics: (l) {t should effectirlelyand compretely remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other fatty substances,loose corneal cens from thc hair and other resid'al substancesofhair dressings or settings or other materials.

llr. r:rw rnaterialsused in manufacture of shampoosare classified as: ( | ) l'rincipal surfactants which provide detergency and foam. 1-l) Secondary surfactants which improve detergency foam and hair condition. 1I ) other additives which impart other characteristics to the shampoo products.

ll0

!-

tl2

A FI,ANDBOOKOF COSMETI(]S

(l) Principal Surfactants Anionic surfactantsare mostly used as principal surfactants. They have very good foaming properties. Non-ionic surfactantshave good cleansingactivity but do not have sufficient foamingpower. So, they are not much used as principal surfactants. Though cationic surfactants have good foaming characteras well as some cleansingpower but arc not much used as they are toxic and causedamageto the eye. But at non-toxic low concentrationthey are used in hair conditioners.Soaps are not preferredas their solutionsare alkalineand make hair dull. In hard water, they leave a deposit of calcium and magnesiumsalts on thc hair shaft. However,they are cheapand thereforeare usedin low-priced shampoos. Ampholytics are generallynot as good as anionics. Also they are more expensive. So, they are mainly used as secondary surfactantsand as good hair conditioners.The variousclassesof principal surfactantsusedin shampoosare mentionedbelow. Alkyl sulphates : Alkyl sulphat€sare most widely used anionic particularlylauryl and myristyl sulphates.They aresulphated detergents, derivativesof long chain fatty alcohols, C12 or above, obtainedby catalytic reduction of fatty acids of coconut and palm kernel oils. Normally both of them are taken together as lauryl gives a greater of cetyl, volume of latherand myristyl givesgreaterrichness.Sulphates like lauryl sulphates Various of salts are not much useful. octyl or decyl lauryl monoethanol lauryl sulphate, sodium lauryl sulphate,triethanol sulphateand ammoniumlauryl sulphateare used. As magnesiumlauryl sulphateis less hygroscopicit is preferablyusedin powdershampoos" Sodiumlauryl sulphate,the mostcommonlyusedalkyl sulphatesalt,has poor solubility in cold water but solubility increaseswith temperature and has good solubility at normal tqmperatureof 35-40'C. Triethanolaminealkyl sulphateis presentin most of the presentday shampoos. Alkyl polyethyleneglycol sulphates(alkyl ether sulphates): Sulphate derivativesof lauryl alcohol ether with polyethyleneglycol or are good cleansers.Normally a chainof 2-3 ethylene similar substances is oxide molecules condensed. Sodium salts'of thesealkyl ether sulphatesare more water soluble than sodium lauryl sulphateand thus a product can be made. They also have high foamingpower. concentrated, They can also act as solventsfor non-polaradditivesnormallyrequired are not good to be incorporated'inshampoos.Thoughthesesubstances hair conditionersbut as they are cheapadditionalconditionerscan be the deficiency. easilyaddedto compensate

I lr t

llAlR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS

I 13

()ther anionic surfactantsoccasionally used are sodium salt ofalkyl herrrenc sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, faffy acid soaps. ,As fatty rtirl soapshave problem with hard water due to presenceof calcium and rurrgrrcsium,addition of sequestering agents like salts of EDTA or 1roly phosphatesis required for stabilization. (2) Secondary Surfactants 'l'heseare added to produce rnore foam and to improve the condition ll lhc hair. They are mostly anionic or ampholytic detergents. There Ire scveral categoriesof detergentswhich are used only in conjunction witlr other detergentsmentioned under principal surfactants. 'l'lreseinclude dialkyl sulphosuccinates,monoalkyl sulphosuccinates, trrethyltaurides,fatty acid alkanolamides,acyl amino acids, acyl peptides, nt yl sarcosins,monoglyceride sulphates,turkey red oil, and secondary nlhyl sulphates. Some of them are used specifically in particular type of rlrnrrrpoos. Monoalkyl sulphosuccinates are non-irritant to the eyes and thus may lrc rrsod in body shampoos. Dialkyl derivatives like sodium di (ethyllrrxyl) sulphosuccinateand the di (tertiary) nonyl sulphosuccinateare vr.ry good wetting agents and are used where wetting and penetration nr.lionare required. Mcthyl taurides, amides of methyl taurine, are amphoteric. They lrrrvc the hair in excellent condition because of the presence of the group. Though their foaming power is not very good but they are 'rlri(lc trrtorporatedas hair conditioners. lratty acid alkanolamides, particularly monoalkanolamides such as and isopropanolamides,are used along with lauryl rrrorrocthanolamides rrrlplrateto increasethe solubility of lauryl sulphate and thus to increase l ul l rcr. Acyl amino acids are in ampholytic class and example is acyl It rrrninopropionateswhere chain length of acid is of C12-C14for best ftrrrrrring activity. Acyl peptides are acyl polyamino acids produced by the reaction of chloride and hydrolyzed proteins. They have excellent hair condi'rryl Irorring power. They are costly and have less foaming power. Acyl sarcosins contain a CON group and have good hair conditioning ellccts. They are normally used along with alkyl sulphatesor alkyl ether aulphates. Secondary alkyl sulphates were used earlier but are not much used rrowirdays. They are good cleansers but have a strong characteristic

lt4


odour and have effect on hair. They also hydrolyze on storage. Occasionally, they are used along with alkyl benzene sulphonatesand alkyl sulphates. Monoglyceride sulphates, like sulphated monolaurin, are same as lauryl sulphatesand used in various commercial products. Turkey red oils form a light coating over hair and are preferably used in oil shampoos. They have effective cleansing character but very low foaming effect. The important turkey red oils are sulphonatedcastor oil and sulphonated olive oil. Normally they are used in combination. Alkyl phosphates are normally used in low foaming shampoos as they have low foaming power. They also have milder effects on hair. Some other anionic surfactantsare also occasionally used in low foaming shampoos,as they are good cleansersbut not a good foaming agent.

I hI

IIAIR CT-EANSING PREPARATIONS

I l5

cl'l btrrlp and produces a good conditioning effect on the hair. Also Frrli'rr lryclrolysatescontaining amino acids are incorporated,for condillrrrrlrF.t:f'lcct. (r') I'carlscent agents : Pearlscent agents are also used to give =.1e, r,rl r:onditioning to hair. They brighten the hair. For this purpose errl'rlrtrrlcd4-methyl coumarins particularly 4-methyl-7-diethylaminoeri rl rrl nri nand 4-m et hyl- 5, 7- dihydr ocoum ar inar e used in 0. 2- lYo r rrrrrrrrllrtir)n and they act betterat pH between4.5-6. Thesesubstances r;ll,'r I liglrt. Fluorescentmaterialsare also occasionallyused. lrl) Sr:questrants : They form a water soluble complex with Caalrl M1iI and thus prevent the formation of insoluble salts of soaps or +lslnrHcnlsby these two divalent ions present in water. Sometimes r olr rrrrrr-:;lltdispersing agents are incorporated to disperse the salts like sodium salt l,,rnrt'rlby the divalentsCa#, Mg++ etc. Sequestrants ,,1 | | ) l'A (ethylene diamine tetra acetic acid) are used to entrap the rltcrlcring ions like Ca++ and Mg++ presentin the water. (c) 'l'hickening agents : To make shampoo preparationsviscous, for

(3) Other Additives Several additives are incorporated in shampoo products to achieve specialized charactersand other purposes. They can be classified as(a) Germicides and anti-dandruff agents (b) Conditioning agents (c) Pearlscentagents (d) Sequestrants (e) Thickening agents (f) Colours (g) Perfumes (h) Preservatives

t.,r',r lr;rritfling and minimize wastage while pouring, thickening agents 4rF rr( orporated. The substancesnormally used for this purpose are al prrr;rl t' s,pol yvi nyl alcohol, m et hyl cellulose, colloidal silicat es, glycol esters etc. Sometimes a suitable combination of gr',11r'llrylcne =rrrf irrl;rrrls also make the preparation viscous. Sulphated castor oil rl,rlpr 1vi11' sulphatedolive oil is one such combination.

All the above items are not essential for a shampoo but can be incorporated according to need and the specific purpose of the targeted population.

(l) (lolours : Colours are preferred by several people and thus ,,rltrrlrlt'certified colours can be incorporated to produce a visually :ttlrirrlivc impact. The colours should be water soluble.

(a) Germicides and anti-dandruffagents : Germicides and/or antidandruff agents are incorporated to prevent microbial infection of scalp and to treat dandruff respectively. Common germicides used in soap can be used in shampoosalso. There are quaternaryammonium compounds, such as benzalkonium chloride, cetrimide etc.; some phenol derivatives; tetramethyl thiuram disulphide, etc. Substancesused as anti-dandruff agents are selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphide, zinc pyridinium-thiolN-oxide, zinc undecylenate,sodium sulphacetamideetc.

(g) I'crfumes : Perfumes are also incorporated to have an after-use on the hair. They also help to mask the odour of the other lrn;,rirnt:o trrprt'rlietits,particularly detergents. Various perfumes are used for this lrnrpo.ic.Perfumesare used in 0.3-1.0%.

(b)'Conditioning agents : Conditioning agents are mainly fatty substanceslike lanolin, oils; natural products like herbal extracts, egg, amino acids, lecithin and polymeric substances.These substancesgive a special conditioning effect to the hair. If amino acids are incorporated into shampoos, after washing amino acid remains deposited on the hair

lh) l'reservatives : Preservativesare very important as most produtr irrc liable to attack by microbes. This leads to breakdown of the Ir,rlrrtt, odour, discolorationand cloudiness. Water-solublepreservattir", irrc:lo be used and p-hydroxy benzoic acid and its methyl ester, l'lr,'l\,1rrrcrcuriccompounds,formaldehydemay be used. I r ptr of Preparations At't:orclingto the nature of the products the shampoo products cdn be rlrl,',rlit'tlas follow. The choice of productsis basedon the need of the

ll6


user. (l) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)

Powdershampoos Clear liquid shampoos Liquid creamor lotion shampoos Solid cream/gelshampoos Oil shampoos Miscellaneousincludinganti-dandruffmedicatedshampoos

General Preparations They are preparedby simpte mixing process. In powder shampoos the ingredientsare simply mixed and the perfumeis addedlast. In caseof clear liquid shampoosthe detergents are first dissolvedin half of the water with little heat if necessary. other ingredientsare addedto other part of the water and then mixed with the first part. The perfume is addedlast. Other preparationscan be made by simple mixing in a gradual manner,taking different ingredientsat different stages. POWDER.SHAMPOOS FormulaI Sodium bicarbonate Disodium phosphate Soap powder Perfume

50.0 gm 200 gm 30.0gm q.s.

Mix all the ingredients together and add perfume finally. Formula2 Henna powder Borax Sodium carbonate Potassium carbonate Soap powder Perfume Formula3 Powdered cammomile flowers Borax , Sodium carbonate Soap powder Perfume

5.0 gm 15.0gm 25.0 gm 5.0 gm 50.0 gm q.s.

5.0 gm 25.0 gm 20.0 gm 50.0 gm q.s.

I.h I

IIÎR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS

II7

Mix all the ingredientstogetherand add perfume finally to mixed rrrnqrund trituratefurther. CLEAR LIQUID SHAMPOOS Formula4 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate Coconut monoethanolamide

Water Perfume Colour Preservative

45.0 gm 2.0 gm 53.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Formula5 Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate Lauric isopropanolauride Water Perfume Preservative

60.0 gm 2.0 gm 38.0 gm q.s. q.s

Formula6 Sodiumsalt of sulphated lauryl alcohol ether Water Perfume Preservative

40.0 gm 60.0 gm q.s. q.s

I'hc above three preparationscan be made by simple solution. Perfirrrreshould be added last. Preservativeshould be dissolved in water. LIQUID CREAM SHAMPOOS Strch shampoos are expected to be mild and emollient in action. Norr-ionic stearateslike propylene glycol stearate,polyethylene glycol 4tX) distearate together with insoluble metallic stearatesare used for opncification. Formula7 Sodium amyl sulphate 30o/o PEG 400 distearate Magnesium stearate Water Ninol AB2l (thickening agent) Oleyl alcohol (conditioning agent) Perfume

25.0 5.0 2.0 68.0 q.s. q.s. q.s

gm gm gm gm

118


ForrnulaE Monoethanolamine lauryl sulphate (27o/oactive) Ethylene glycol monostearate Water Perfume Preservative

40.0 gm 5.0 gm 55.0gm q.s. q.s

Sodium lauryl sulphate paste Oleic acid Triethanolamine Water Perfume Preservative i Colour

47.0 gm 20.0 gm 10.5gm 22.5 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Mix water, oleic acid and sodium lauryl sulphate paste and heat to fitt"(' Slowly add triethanolamine with continuous stirring. Add perf i rrrrc:rl i cr cooi ngto 35oC. Fo r m u l a 1 2

27.50gm 1.00gm 3.00gm 0.25gm 68.25gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Add whole egg powder or dried egg yolk with small quantity of water to make a paste. Dilute it with some amount of detergent. Mix other ingredients with water separately. Add the first mixture to it with stirring. Add perfume. SOLID CREAM/GEL SHAMPOOS These are made from sodium lauryl sulphate paste with suitable gelling agent such as sodium stearate. Since they have to be stored in collapsible tubes orjars, they should have thick consistency. For m ula l0

Sodium lauryl sulphate Coconut monsethanolamide Propylene glycol monoste&rate Stearic acid Sodium hydroxide Water Perfume

119

I{AIR CLEANSING PREPARATIONS

Formula l l

Heat and mix the ethylene glycol monostearatewith a smalr quantity of the detergent to form a homogeneous mixture. Add more detergent slowly and then water, mixing thoroughly before addition of next. Perfume is added last after coolins to 35oC. Formula9 Fatty alcohol sulphate Lauric isopropanolamide Ethylene glycol monostearate Egg powder Water Perfume Preservative Colour

Th I

20.00gm 1.00gm 2.00 gm 5.00 gm 0.75 gm 71.25gm q.s.

15.0gm Miranol Triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (40%) 25.0 gm l0.Q gm Coconut diethanolamide 1.0 gm (Methyl cellulose) Methocel gm 49.0 Water q.s. Perfume q.s. Preservative q.s. Colour Nlrx rniranol, triethanolamine lauryl sulphate and coconut diethanollllrrh. with heat. Add methocel and colour with water to make a viscous Mix this with the previousmixture with continuousstirring. 1re'pirr:rlion. A'Ll pt'rlumeafter cooling to 35oC. OIL SHAMPOOS t)rl shampoos basically consist of detergents made of sulphonated ltlq l'hcy have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the lrrrrrlrrrl,lheydo not form foam. Sulphonatedvegetableoils are made by lrF,rtrrlt vegetableoils with sulphuric acid or other sulphonating agents, rrtrrlirtr:good detergents. Formula 13 Sulphonatedolive oil Sulphonatedcastor oil Water Perfume Preservative Colour

16.0gm 16.0gm 68.0gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Mrx all the ingredients together. Colour and preservativesshould be ,ltas,rlvcdin a small quantity of water. Perfume can be added last.

120

IhI


MISCELLANEOUSSHAMFOOS These are encompassingshampooscontaining ingredientsincorporatedto achievespecificfunction along with cleansingaction. Shampoos can contain anti-dandruff agents,other medicinal agentslike vitamins, amino acids, protein hydrolysate,plant extract,antibapterialagents,etc. and are expectedto give additional effectsapart from cleansingaction.

I2I

lhlr to rest of the detergentmix with continuousstirring. Cool to 40oC a*rrlrdd pcrfume. Addition of perfumeis optional. Formula17 Thymol Menthol Camphor Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate Water Perfume

ANTISEPTIC/ANTI-DANDRUFFSHAMPOOS

Formula14 Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste) 25.0 gm Stearicacid 7.0 gm Sodiumhydroxide 1.0gm Biosulphurpowder 2.0 gm Water 65.0 gm Perfume q.s. Preservative q.s. Dissolve the sodium hydroxide in a small quality of water with heating at 75"C. Add biosulphurto the sodium hydroxide solution. Take sodium lauryl sulphate and stearic acid together and mix with heatingat about 60oC and then add to the aqueoussolution. Stir and cool and add perfumeand preservative. Formula15 Triethanolaminelauryl sulphate Lauric monoethanolarnide Hexachlorophane Water Perfume Colour Prepareby simplemixing process.

IIÎR CLEANSINGPREPARATIONS

0.05 gm 0.10gm 0.10gm 50.00 gm 49.75gm q.s

Mlx lhymol,mentholand camphortogether.Add perfumeand mix a errrnllnrnountof detergentwith stirring. Continue the addition of with gentlestirring. Add waterto volume. delergerrl tvrlsnllon of Shampoos \hnrnpoos,beforereleasingto the market,must be testedfor their aafetyorr application,to the skin and eyes. Generaltestsfor identificat|rmol irrgredients and quantityof eachingredientshouldbe carriedout hy properchemicalanalysis. Someotherspecifictestsare done. ( | ) Vnrious physical propertiesand performancecharacteristics bc studied. Theseare foam formationand foam stability,rheolahrrrrhl rrgy,ol lhc products,natureof foam,effect of the shampooon the hair attrllt,, c:haracters etc.

14.0gm 1.5gm 0.5 gm 84.0 gm q.s. q.s.

l'erlirnnanceand characterof the foam can be studiedby stirring the hrnnrrrru speciallydesigneddevice,and by addingselectedsoil suchas larmlirr.rnineraloil, vegetableoil or dirt to foam and studyingtheir FflFrI l'llect on the hair can be studied by half-head technique, where half ll lhe lruir' is shampooed,the other half is used as control, and comparIrrg the two parts by observation and by combing and other process.

Formula16 Seleniumdisulphide 2.5 gm Bentonite 5.0 gm Sodium lauryl sulphate(paste) 40.0 gm Water 52.5 gm Perfume q.s. First disperseseleniumdisulphideevenlyin bentonite. Mix sodium lauryl sulphatewith water with heating and stirring to a ternperatureof about90oC. Add part of this detergentmirr.to the seleniumdisulphidebentonite dispersionwith stirring to get a homogeneousmixture. Add

l)l l,.lfect on skin and eyes:This can be done by applying it on antrrrols. lrritation on skin can be studied by applying it on skin and nhrrrving the effectson skin.

[

I h ',

l t^l l t 'I'ON IC S

123

{ l } ( )ptionally it can also contain conditioners. ('') SlroLrldnot damagescalp or hair.

CHAPTER-9

Hair Tonics Flair tonics, whether their therapeutic action is real or not, occupy a large market today. They claim action against a variety of disorders such as dandruff alopecia or baldness, seborrhoea and the like. Dandruff can be controlled by using a0.25%osolution of a cationic surfactant or selenium sulphide or other selectedsubstancesdissolved in water. Seborrhoeacan be lessened by removing oily secretions by rubbing hair daily with an alcoholic lotion. Baldness,according to science,cannot be cured by any extemal application on the head. But massaging on the scalp can enhance the blood supply to the scalp and the hair growth. But several tonics claim to grow hair on bald heads. People have suspicion aboul these products but still demands are there. Loss of hair is a natural phenomena of the cyclic activity of the hair follicle. Germinal matrix becomes inactive during the resting phase appearing after the growing phase. Eventually hair becomes detached and moves up the follicle and falls out. This normal loss, if little higher, makes the people use hair tonics or hair lotions. When this loss is not replaced by new hair, baldnessstarts. Baldness can occur due to any of the three reasons hereditary, presence or increase of male sex hormone, and disease of the scalp. Some dubious products are marketed to cure baldness. Another new type of products have got the attention of the people. They are termed as hair conditioners mainly used by women, to repair the damage done to the hair by excessive use of other hair treatment preparationsor shampoos. An ideal hair tonic should have the following ingredients: (1) A counter irritant to improve supply of blood to the dermal papillae.

(2) Vitamins and sulphur-containing amino acids for biosynthesisof keratin.

(3) Antiseptics for control of dandruff and seborrhoea. t22

ll';rir t.rrics have been made for dry scalps or for oily scalps.Those Itrr ,rrl\' :;crrllrs are designedto correctthe oily condition urrau." alkaline. I t'r rlr\' sr:alps11.t.preparations contain substances to supplement oily r l rrti t(t(.1, ol ' the scalp. i !* l rr i rrl s \"rr irrrs .aw materialshave been suggested and are being used in hair r'!rfrlrt\ s.r'e of these.ingredientshelp to maintain the scarp in good ' rrrrlrla()..Sorneother ingredientsare usedto enhancethe applaranceof

tl tE l ri l i t

lr.epr in case of oily preparationsas tonic, normal vehicle fbr the Irrrlr |rrrit':; is industrial methyrated spirit diluted with water. Arcohol ' 'rlr lrt' rr:rctfin concentrationrange from l0-g5%oas required. It acts as a ='rl'rrrr l.r' removar of a fatty acid-protein comprex from the hair. {lr'.lrrrl is not recommendedin high concentration as it can cause l rrehl rhrrvrr of the pro t ein. fr,r1r11r1,yl alcohol can replacealcohol as vehicle but it has a strong .rl'ur. Glycerine in 2-5oh is also incorporatedto get emollient Srrrrrgr'rrl ard lrrlrriclting effects. It also helps as cosolvent. terr'rrrl rubefacient drugs are recommended to in,:orporate in hair r'rtl.i l. stirnulate hair growth. vasodilators are also incorporated *'|ur'|l..''s. But the massagingdone to apply such tonics also helps in -ellilllll;llillllhair growth as it increasestemperatureand localizedcirculas.rrc: of the active constituentsused are llrr cantharides,pilocarpine, rilrlrrrrrt":rrrl'onia, rosemaryoil, acetic acid, capsicum,resorcinol,sali, r ll, ir, itl. sulphur,cholesterol,mercuric chloride. t lr,lc"rcrol has been reported to have an effect on the activity of the 6,v115 glands and hair formation. As it is water-insoluble 'e1161 and has e'r're '..lrrbility in alcohol, cholesterolcan easily be dissolvedin alcohol r'l lriplr .'rrcentration. However, if alcohor concentrationis low, a =,lr1lr1l;71"t' agent like cetomacrogol,emulsifying wax, needs tc be rrrt'|rr"rrirrc(|. PolyoxyetLlyrenecondensation product of woor wax (;ur al so be u sedas solubilizer s. tl r 111' ,t;. t 'r"r.r .il, lanorin condensation proclucts or wool wax alcohol | 'rrr,h-r',irri'^ products are used as oily rnaterial for hair dressing. I rrlrr'r irrrportant substancesused in h;rir tonics are vitr;rmin F, '[ir!r"r Ir' pantothe'ic acid, biotin (viiarnin H), pr*tein hydrorysation 1.,:rrrrlnucl ei ca cids" f' rr' ,l rrr

A HANDBoOKoF cosMll l r(

124

The idea of using these substancesis that either growth or struclrrr, and rigidity of the hair will benefit by using them on scalp antl ril contact with keratogenouszone or the tissue surrounding the hair palrrll ' or germinal matrix. Vitamin F is the mixture of unsaturatedfatty at r,t including linoleic, linolenic and arachidonic acids and they helP "' treatment of skin irregularities and in hair preparations. For prolrr" hydrolysate proteins of leather, skin, gelatin, hair are treated with acrrl alkalis or enzymes and the products are used. Several anti-dandruff materials like sulphur, cationic surfaclarrt" selenium sulphide, cadmium sulphides are also used in hair tonics,'r lotions. (1) Resorcinol : Resorcinol and its monoacetate have powcr lrrl antiseptic properties and are therefore used in anti-dandruffpreparatiorr: They are less toxic than phenols. Large dosesof resorcinol are howcv, ' toxic, due to the formation of methaemoglobin. It is absorbedthrotrl'1, skin, especially injured surfaces. Due to these reasons,it is not mtttlr used in tonics. (2) Beta naphthol (beta hydroxynaphthalene) : It is a powerlrrl antiseptic, slightly soluble in water (0.1%). Boric acid increasesit' solubility. (3) Natural extracts quinine: Being a poison to all forms of livirrl' maiter, it helps in keeping the scalp sterile and stimulates it by frictit'rr (4) Capsicum : Capsicum consists of the dried ripe fruits of caps' cum and contains a crystalline colourless pungent substance callt',| capsaicin" Its tincture is used in tonics' (5) Cantharides : Dried "cantharis vesicatoria" contains a cryslrl line lactone cantharidin. It is used for its irritating, stimulant propertit'" on the scalp. (6) Vitamins and unsaturated acids are also used in conjugati"" for their hair growing properties.

125

l tA Il { I"ON IC S

Formula2

2.0 gm 50.0gm 48.0 gm 10.0gm q.s.

Betanaphthol Alcohol (90%) Water Glycerine Perfume Formula3

2.0 gm 0.1 gm 3.0 gm 0.3 gm 4.0 gm 7.0 gm 83.35gm 0.25 gm

Borax Quinine arsenite Glycerine Formaldehyde Alcohol Chloroform Water Perfume Formula4 Chlorothyrnol Tincture of capsicum Quinine arsenite Benzoic acid Alcohol Water Perfume

0.1 gm 3.0 gm 0.1 gm 0.3 gm 40.0 gm 56.3gm 0.2 gm

F'ormula5 Pilocarpine nitrate Quinine hydrochloride Glycerine Alcohol Water Perfume Preservative

0.05 gm 2.00 gm 5.00gm 5.00 gm 89.75gm q.s q.s.

llrt: prcparationcan be made by simple solution technique.

Preparations F o rm u l aI Fclwler's solution Sulphonated castor oil Resorcinolmotloacetate Perfume Alcohol

r h',

16.00gm 10.00gm 1.50gm 0.25 gm 72.25gm

Fo r m u l a 6

Cholesterol AlcoholI Cetomacrogol Water Perfume Preservative

0.5 gm 25.0 gm 1.0 gm 73.5 grn q.s. q.s.

A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS

126

F o rm u l a7 Calcium pantothenate Glycerine Alcohol Water Perfurne Preservative Lactic acid (to adjust pH 5.0-6.0)

0.5 gm 3.0 gm 27.5 gm 69.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

F o rm u l a8 Protein hydrolysate Glycerine Calcium pantothenate Alcohol Water Perfume Preservative Lactic acid (to ad.iustpH 5.0-6.0)

1.0 gm 2.0 gm 0.2 gm 25.0gm 71.7gm q.s. q.s. q.s

F o rmu l a9

0.2 gm 0.2 gm 20.0 gm 79.6gm q.s.

Salicl'lic acid Resorcinol Oleyl alcohol Alcohol Perfunle F o rmu l al 0 Salicylic acid Precipitated sulphur Glycerine Alcohol Water Perfume Preservative

0.2 gm 3.0 gm 0.3 gm 10.0gm 86.5gm q.s. q.s.

Conditioners conditioners are used after shampooing the hair. to render the hair more lustrous, easy to comb, and fiee tiom static electricity when dry. The.y are also used to improve dainagedhair. Hair may be damaged by eNcessive use ()f bleaches and permanent waves. Condit"oners are usually based on cationic detergentsand fatty materials like lanolin nr inineral oil

I l r r) IIA IR TON IC S

For m ula11 Stearyl alcohol Glyceryl monostearate Sodium chloride Benzalkoniumchloride Water Colour Perfume

127 0.6 gm 4.2 gm 0.2 gm 1.5 gm 97.5 gm q.s. q.s.

For m ula12 Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 5.0 gm Ethylene glycol monostearate 2.0 gm Cetyl alcohol 3.0 gm Water 90.0 gm Perfume q.s. Preservative q.s. llair oil : This is widely usedby the peoplefor nourishmentand care nl h;rir'. Variety of hair oils are available in the market. Some are pure rrrl likc coconut oil etc. Others normally contain some important ingrerl rt' rrl tl s i ssol vedi n oil. l ' :r' nl unti on As in any other cosmetic products, these products should also be .r'irlrrrtcd for the contents estimation and their identification. Also some ltlrcr tcstsare requiredto be done accordingto purpose. (l) Antisepticproperty: This can be done by in vitro antimicrobiohrp,rt'lrl testsagainstsome specific organismsusing liquid or solid medium. ()) Stability lesl : Stability of the products and of the ingredients rnrr',lbc studied particularly effects of heat, light etc. It is well known llrirl nrost of the phenolic materialswill discolour on exposureto light 'ur(l llrus may make fair hair dark, particularly in the presenceof traces ,rf ;rlkirli or soap. For stability study acceleratedstability study may be rl nI tt'.

( l) Sesitivity /esl : Some of the ingredients, like antiseptics, may t lrrsc irritation, sensitizationor photosensitizationof the skin. So, these qlrorrklbe tested and can be done by patch test, either open or occlusive.

I F III

r29

IIA II{ C OLOR A NTS

( l) Permanent colorants (4) Lighteners or bleaches CIIAPTRER-10

Hair Colorants Hair colorants, or hair dyes as they are popularly known, occupy a latge market today. They are used either to hide gray hair or to change the colour of the hair by individuals, either at home or at hairdressing saloon. Colouring of hairs, eyebrows and eyelashes is not new and practised from earliest antiquity but in crude form. A naturally occurring colouring agent kohl, containing lead sulphide, was used by Egyptian women to give a black colour to the hair, eyebrows and eyelashes' Further, several other plants were also identified and used for colouring of hair, eyebrows and eyelashes. Henna to obtain auburn tints, lysimachia for i-mparting blond tint, corisson to dye the hair black, are notable examples. Extract obtained by boiling ophouys, the eyebrow plant, in oil was used to impart blackness to the hair. Over the time lot of changes occurred and presently various types of dyes are available to impart intended colour and shades. An ideal hair dye should have the following characteristics: (1) It should not be toxic to the skin or hair and should not impair the natural gloss and texture of the hair. (2) It should not be dermatitic sensitizer.

(l) TEMPORARY

COLORANTS

I lrr':icrlyes or colorants impart colour to the hair for a short time. f lrel irrc washedoff during the first shampoo. They offer the advantage llrrrl tlrc rrscr is allowed to experiment. Early examples of temporary r,lirrirrrlscan be the practiceof rinsing hair with either vinegaror lemon lrrtrr nllcr shampooingwith soap. These were used before the developnrerrtol'shampoo basedon synthetic detergents. Soap which remains on the lririr lras a dulling effect and rinse was consideredto give effect as a rcqult ol neutralizing the alkali. Same effect was obtained when rinsed nltlr rr solrrtion of citric or tartaric acid. Present-daytemporary colorants are l'*rscrlon this principle and consist of a mixture of a suitable dyestuff rrttlr urr ircid either in powdersor in liquid forms. I'or,y1ls1 products are simple mixture of dyestuff with citric acid or l!illrilr( lrcid in a sachet or,,capsule. To use, the contents of the package ta rltt,.olvod in about half a pint of warm water and the solution poured rpr'irlttlly over the wet hair immediately after shampooing. Absorption rrl rllestu{l'takes place from the solution on to the hair cuticle but no grerrt'trirlior.r to the cortex or medulla. The dye can easily be removedby rlrirrrrpooirrg.Various shadescan be createdby this processlike blue, 1trrl, light golden or auburn shades. I lrt'sc preparationsmay also be applied in a transparent polymeric lrrrlr'tiltl as sprays. They may also be formulated with soaps,shampoos llnrl \ryirxcsand used as crayons for temporary colouring. pH of the ,.llrrtionpreparationis adjustedat about 5.0.

(3) The colour that it imparts to the hair must be stable to air, light, water and shampoo.

POWDER Formula I

(4) Should be easy to apPlY. The important factors to be considered while selecting a dye are its molecular size and its pH. The keratin lattice structure of hair does not permit the penetration of molecules much larger than ethylene glycol. At high pH, hair may swell and absorption may be enhanced. But it may cause irreversible damage to hair. Most dyes are small molecules and thus penetrate hair easilY. These days hair colorants may be classified into following categories: (l) Temporary colorants (2) Semi-permanentcolorants 128

Certifiedcolour Tartaric acid

5.0 gm 95.0gm

RINSE SOLUTION Formula2 Acid dyestuff Alcohol Acetic acid (30%) Water

6.0 gm 10.0gm 10.0gm 74.0 gm

A HANDBOOK OF COSME'II( '

130

r h l () IIA IRC OLORANTS

For m ula 3

A krw-water soluble dyestuff, like nitro-amino type, does not produce ,,,rtr,,lirctory colouring when applied in an ionic surface-activeagent. In ,,rr,lr ir cirse incorporation of 2-5%' of an alkylolamide will increasethe r-lllt I ol'dyestuff. Basic dyestuff can also colour the hair by absorption rlllrl wlrcn they are applied in a cation effective vehicle. In several I rf\(':, :r rnixture of anionic andlor non-ionic surface active agents with a rrrlronuctive dye is used to get a semi-permanentcolouring by forming Iililtlnclltion colour complexes. ('olour complexes can be formed by any of the following processes:

6.0 gm 10.0gm 40.0 gm 44.0 gm

Acid dyestuff Alcohol Acetic acid Water CRAYON F o rmu l a4 Colour Stearic acid Triethanolamine Glyceryl monostearate Beeswax Paraffin wax Microcrystalline wax Coconut diethanolamine Perfume

6.0 gm 14.0gm 7.0 gm 4.0 gm 42.0 gm 9.0 gm 9.0 gm 7.0 gm q.s.

(rr) Mixing an anionic surfactant with a solution of basic dyestuff. 1lr) Mixing a cationic surfactant with a solution of a anionic dyestuff. 1r') Mixing an anionic surfactant with a solution of a dyestuff containing a cationic surface-activeagent. Norrnally these preparations are applied to dry hair after cleaning rvillr shampoo and kept for about 30 minutes to allow maximum absorplhrrr ol'colour. The hair is finally rinsed with warm water, or with if necessary,to remove excess colour. Some illustrative ',lrirrrrpoo,' llrrrrrrllc are mentionedbelow.

In shampoo type preparations 0.5 to 2.0Yo of the dyestuff can lrc incorporated depending on the colour effect required. (2) SEMr-PERMANENT

131

COLORANTS

These colorants give a stronger coloration to the hairs and carr withstand six to eight subsequentshampoosalthough some of the colotrr is removed during each shampoo. These are made of dyes havirrl' smaller molecules which penetrate the hair easily. These are mort' preferred by the professional hairdresserand the home user as they arc easy to apply and have less risk of damage to hair and skin in compari son to permanent dyeing process.

Formula5 ammonium compound Quatemary Anionic surfactant Lactic acid Alkylolamide Dyestuff Water

These colorants are mainly based on basic dyestuffs of nitro-amirro dyes. The most important nitro dyes are picramic acid (2,4-dinitro-6 aminophenol) and 4-nitro-1-2-phenylenediamine. These dyes are usuallt red or yellow. Brown dyes are normally larger in size and do not penetrateeasily. Therefore, in order to get a brown shade,blue is mixetl with red and yellow. Anthraquinones, e.g. 1,4-diamino anthraquinonc. give blue colour and are sufTiciently small in size. To achieve thc optimum dyeing effect of a particular dyestuff the following factors musl be considered(a) Water solubility (b) The composition of the vehicle or base (c) Effect of pH of the medium (d) Effects of diluting solvents on the dye and basic composition

12.0 gm 9.6 gm 4.8 gm 12"0 gm 1"2 gm 60.4 gm

l)issolve the dyestuff in a mixture of the alkylolamide and anionic lrrt'c,abtive material. Separatelydissolve acid and quaternary ammo'rur rluru cornpound in the water and add gradually to the colour solution rvl ri l csti rri ng. Formula6 12.0 gm Quaternary ammonium compound Nonyl phenol ethyleneoxide condensate 9.6 gm Lactic acid 4.8 gm Coconut diethanolamine 12.0 gm Dyestuff 1.2 gm Water 60.4 em

t*'

I32

A HANDBOOKoF COSMETICS

Dissolve the dye in noryl phenol ethleneoxide condensateand coconut diethanolamine. Dissolve lactic acid and quaternary ammonium compound separately in water and add this slowly to the dye solution with stirring. (3) PERMANENT

COLORANT

Permanent colorants are colouring preparations which are generally accompaniedby a chemical process. Permanentcolorants can be used to intensify the natural colour or completely change the hair colour. They can also be successfully used to give a shade near to the natural colour of the hair. These are also used to give a dramatic effect. Permanent colorants are either of vegetable origin or salts of heavy metals. But most preferred or of commercial importance are the oxidation dyes based on synthetic organic chemicals. Oxidation dyes such as p-phenylene diamine, p-tolulenediamine are used as permanent dyes. They are first converted to quinine-diamine which is colourless and small in size. These penetratethe hair and form molecules of increasing size and colour. These polymers are very difficult to remove and the dyes remain permanent. These dyes also cause some toxicity to hair and skin. Toxicity of such dyes is due to the p-phenylenediamine and not due to any intermediates. Patch test should be done on small area of skin before every application. Phenols such as resorcinol, pyrogallol may be used to modify the shades. The main ingredients of a formulation will be of--

133

r ft lil tlAll( ( ()I.ORANTS

ll,-rrrrrrltirs no local or systemictoxicity and shows no sensitization' r,rl,rilr is dcpositedin the hair shaft unlike metallic dyes which coat ltE fhe lrrrrr',lr:rti. Its main disadvantagesare that it is messy, produces re,1lt,,lr.,lrirlcs and dyes the finger nails also. Apart from its use as dye, frcl l rr rn;rvbc trsedi n r inses. HENNA RINSE Forrnula 7 grouncl) (coarsely llenna leaves Alcohol Water l'erfume

(c) Alkali: Ammonia

45.75gm 0.25 gm

I lrr. lt.:rvcsare boiled in water and then the mixture is allowed to =t4l,l l{}r lr lbw hours. It is strainedto remove the leaves and alcohol are adde d. arr,lgrcrl rrtttc lrl,lrtiorr of pyrogallol and metallic salts may be used to produce a rangc rrl t,olours with henna. But this may prove toxic if applied on l r,,frn ,,ki tt, LIGHT BROWN FormulaI

90.0 gm 5.0 gm 5.0 gm

Henna powder Pyrogallol Copper sulphate DARK BROWN Formula9

(a) Base : Solution, emulsion, gel, powder, shampoo. (b) Dy": Oxidation base

10.00 gm 44.00 gm

83.0gm 10.0gm 7.0 gm

Henna powder Pyrogallol Copper sulphate

(d) Antioxidanls : Ammonium thioglycolate BLACK (l) Vegetable Dyes The most important vegetable dye is 'Henna'. It contains dried powdered leaves of Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia spinosa and Lawsonia inemis. Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthaquinone,the main ingredient) is soluble in hot water and in a pH of 5.5 acts as an effective dye. The powdered henna is made into a paste with hot water, suitably acidified and applied on the head. It is kept for the required amount of time"

For m ulal0

Hennapowder Pyrogallol Coppersulphate

73.0 gm 15.0gm 12.0 gm

CAMOMILE of Anthemis nobilis and Matricania flowers the of llris consists ,lr,rlrorrrillae. The active ingredient is 1'3,4-trihydroxyflavone or aagrr;4t'nirr. The flower heads are applied in the form of a paste in hot

134

A HANDBOoK oF cosMur.t(:

water along with kaolin. It may also be used as hair brightening rins.',, A typical formula isFormula I I Camomile flowers Alcohol Water Perfume F o rm u l a1 2 Powdered henna leaves Powdered camomile flowers Pyrogallic acid Citric acid Alcohol Glycerine Water

10.00gm 44.00gm 45.75gm 0.25 gm 18.200gm 5.820gm 0.150gm 0.073gm 2.200 gm 0.730gm 78.827gm

(2) Metallic Hair Dyes Colours caused by metallic compounds such as lead acetateare either due to sulphides formed by sulphur in the keratin or due to metallic oxide formed by reduction. The hair shaft is coated with a dull, metallic sheen, leaving the hair brittle. The main compounds used for thir; purpose are lead acetate, bismuth citrate, silver nitrate. (a) Lead dyes : Lead dyes are generally based on solutions of leacl acetateand it is considered that the reducing action of keratin forms thc insoluble lead salts. The coloration processis slow and gives an illusion of restoring of natural colour. The rate of colouring is dependent on concentration of lead and influenced by air and light. Lead acetate is normally used in combination with precipitated sulphur or sodium thiosulphate. Formula 13

Precipitatedsulphur Lead acetate Glycerine Water

1.3 gm 1.6gm 9.6 gm 87.5 gm

The shadesproduced depend on the concentrationof lead useil" It is relatively non-toxic. (b) Bismuth dyes : They also produce a range of colours from blond to dark chestnut.

't

I h t0 ilAil( Cot_oRANTS

135 Formula 14

A" Bismuth citrate Water

50.0gm 50.0 gm

lI

6.0 gm 94.0 gm q.s.

Sodium thiosulphate Water Ammonium hydroxide

lr') Silver dyes: The hair is firsttreated with an aqueousammoniar',rl',,rlrrli.rrof silver nitrate. After a short while, a solution of pyrogallol ta rr;,|'lrt'tl 'fhe proportion of silver may be reducedfor lighter shades. '{ F,r,','rrislr black colour is produced"which stainsskin too. For m ulalS S ol uti on 1 Silver nitrate Ammonium nitrate Water Ammonium hydroxide S ol uti on2 Pyrogallol Alcohol Water

5.0 gm 3.0 gm To 100.0gm q.s. 4.0 gm 46.0 gm 50.0gm

\irlts ol'copper,nickel and cobalt may be a,ldedto modifo the colour. Formula 16 Lead acetate Sodium thiosulphate Glycerine Alcohol Water Perfume

0.5 gm 1.5 gm 8.0 gm 10.0grn 80.0gm q.s.

Formula 17 Lead acetate Sodium thiosuiphate Propylene glycol Water

0.6 gm 1.2 gm 10.0gm 88.2 gm

Formula 18 Precipitatedsulphur Lead sulphatc Propylene glyc"oi

2.0 gm 1.0 gm 10.0gm

Alcohol Water

137

r fl l0 ll^tR COLORANTS

A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI( :

136

10.0gm 77.0 gm

rnlrrtiorr. As some substancesof hair are soluble in alkali, treatment r+rtlrrrlkali for longer time makes the hair soft and gelatinous when wbt rrrrrlrrrrkcs the combing difficult. To prevent damage to the hair several rrrrrht'rs suggested addition of additives, like proteins, which can be rrrr.rlrorirtcdinto the bleachingpreparationsor pretreatedbefore bleachItty

Oxidation Hair Colorants These are the most important group of permanent dyes but slowlr have been replaced by semi-permanentdyes. The oxidation dyes ar, based on synthetic organic chemicals like paraphenylenediamineatrtl paratolulenediamine. The principle of dyeing is to add necessaryoxiclr tion end product, an azine dye, which reacts with keratin to forrrl insoluble azine derivatives and consequently gives a permanent cololl tion. To improve the stability of the dye to the effect of light and werl and to obtain certain specific colours some other materials are used lr, modifiers along with the main dyestuff. They are resorcinol, pyrocat(' chol, chlorohydroquinone, pyrogallic acid, diamino-anisidine, etc.

Mrl cri l l s llrotrgh permanganatesolution is recommended for bleaching pur1,,,'.('l)ul application of it can cause serious damage to the hair if any rrrr'.trrkc is made in application. Alkaline hydrogenperoxide solution is fn"rc l)rcl'crred. For domestic use 3-4Yoperoxide solution is suggested lrut lol professional application 5-60losolution can be used for faster lrlt'rrr'lring"Further higher concentrationscan damage the hair. Norlrrrllv suitable stabilizing agents, such as acetanilide, diluted acids, rilililil)ilir.trIbisulphate are incorporated in hydrogen peroxide solution to 'itrrlrrlizcit. As presenceof various metals causesdamage to the hair, r.rlrc$lcring agent EDTA may also be added to the preparation. Choleslrrol. lurrolin derivatives, fatty alcohols or other hair conditioning sulr.,tlrrrccs are incorporatedin the hydrogenperoxide solution to have a hetterappearanceofthe hair.

(4) LTGHTENERS OR BLEACHES Lightenersor bleachesare also discussedhere as they alter the colorrr of the hair. These preparations can also be termed as decolourinl' preparations becausethey lighten or remove the natural colour. The colour of the hair is due to the melanin which is produced in tlrc living cells of matrix of the follicle and then distributed in the del,l keratinized cortex and cuticle. So, the bleaching processis modification or lightening by destruction of the melanin by some chemical reactions

llclirre application, ammonia is added for faster degradation of per,rrr,lc irnd better bleaching effect. This also softens the hair. As lrl,'rrr'lrr:d hair never regains colour, so in subsequentbleaching only frr'.,lrlygrown hair is requiredto be bleached.

Though metallic and oxidation dyes or camomile extract may lightcrr dark hair, but strong bleaching effect is not possible by using thcst' substances. This can be done by treating with oxidizing agents likc alkaline hydrogen peroxide, permanganatesolutions etc. After bleachinli normally the hair is rinsed with blue solution to give it a better appeal ance.

I lrc: products are marketed in powder, paste, and solution forms. |orvtlcl preparationscontain inert materials such as kaolin, magnesium r irrlrorralcmixed with peroxide and ammonia to achieve better control in tlrr',rpplicationto the hair. Also there are substanceswhich when mixed I'r,'vitlc arnmoniaand active oxygen. Mixture of magnesiumperoxide runrlsoclium perborate is such an example. Sodium perborate, sodium |','rrrxidcwhen mixed with water producealkaline hydrogenperoxide.

The bleaching effect is produced by the oxidation effect of tlr,' oxygen releasedby the action of alkali on the oxidizing agent hydrogcrr peroxide. During this oxidation sulphur linkages of the hair get darn aged. Extent of damage is dependenton the time of exposure of the hair to t he bleac hinga g e n t.

Formula 19 Ammonium bicarbonate Ammonium bisulphate Light magnesium carbonate Lisht calcinm carbonate

As temporary colouring of hair is also in demand, this is donc pref,erablyafter bleaching the hair and making the colour light, so thrrl any shadesof colour can be imparted easily. Dyes. particularly lightur shade, can be applied better on bleached hair than darker hair. Cat',' should be taken not to damase the hair shaft while treatine with alkll,

20.0 gm 10.0gm 50.0gm 20.0 grn

llris powder mixture is to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide solution l rr' l orcuse.

*l

138

A T]ANDBOOKOF COSMETICSJ

Formula20 Ammonium persulphate Ammonium bicarbonate Ammonlum bisulphate Sodium perborate monohydrate Calcium carbonate (light) Magnesium silicate

I h lll

Formula24 Hydrogen peroxide solution Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride Water pH to be adjusted to

20.0 gm 20.0 gm 3.0 gm 2.5 gm 54.5gm

1.0 gm 19.0gm 5.5

It* l r' l )yc R emovers llr'rrglr permanenthair dye is applied to have a stablecorour which *tll lrc dilt'icult to remove, but sometimes users may want really to rFrirrvuil lbr various reasonsor to have a lighter shade. one method of rlr'\'ul c:anbe using hot vegetableoil. First vegetableoil is applied to ],rr n lllL.hair properly. Then the strandsof hair are passedthrough a Ir*rrt,'rlir.n marcel or comb and then rubbed with towel. vegetable Frtrrrrt tlycs and lead dyes can be easily rernoved by this technique. trtlrer .rll
Liquids and Paste Bleaches Normally these preparations are marketed in two containers one containing stabilized hydrogen peroxide solution and the other the activator. Before trse they are mixed in one part of activator and 4 parts of hydrogen peroxide solution and applied.

l'rkcy red oil can be used to remove dyes and is also advantageous ea !ililrl'other additivescan also be incorporatedto help in removal of

45.4gm 18.3gm 22.7 gm 13.6gm .,'q.s.

r ul l l l l

t lrcrrical reagentscan also be used as artificial dyes. Metalric dyes €rr rrrrllcrrrovedby chemical relgents as it may causea violent produclhrrr.l lrcat which may damagehair and scalp. oxidation dyes can be rrrrr,vt'tl hy treating rvith reducing agents such as sodium hydrosulphite, = ' ,,l rrrr l i rrmal dehyde sulphoxylat e, sodium t hiosulphat e, sodiunr rlllhr'rrrrlcsolutions. These are used at 5oloconcentration. Flydrogen rrrrrrrrrlcsolutionsin 5-6vo strengthcan be useful for lighter shadesof rrrirlllr.rr dyes but not for dark shades. Most of these substancesare r 'E,l ur ;rcidicsolution but sodium forrnaldehydesulphoxylateis used as ,r' -rrL l ! rrrrrrnoni acsolut al ion. llrc lirllowing formula is a representativepreparationand can be rr-' ,,ll o l cnrovesi l ve r colour s. Sodiurn thiosulphate 5.0 grn Sulphuricaciri 2.0 gn^, Water 93.0 gm

Formula22(ii) In hydrogen peroxide solution for preparation (i) dissolve the perfume in alcohol and add oleic acid. N{ix thoroughly. Add ammonium hydroxide solution slowly with continuous stirring. Finally add triethanolamine. l'ormula 23 2.CIgm A. Carbopol 9-lzl Hydrogen peroxide solution (acid stabilized) 88.0 grn B. Triethanolsamine solution (109/oin rvater)

80.0 gm

l)r,isolvethe secondcomponentin water. Then add hydrogenperoxIrl erol rrti orrsl ow l y. Adjust pH t o 5. 5.

The preparations are prepared by rnixing all the ingredients except oxidizing agent, sodium perborate monohydrate, which is mixed slowly with base afterward. The products are to be mixed rvith water before use.

Formula22(i) Oleic acid Alcohol Ammonium hydroxide solution Triethanolamine Perfume

139

l)r:rPcrscthe carbopol in the peroxide with vigorous stirring. Allow trr 51,,''.1lirr 20 minutes. Then add solution of triethanol amine and arl l rri l1rlI to 5.5.

20.0 gm 3.0 gm 3.0 gm 2.5 gm 20.0 gm 51.5gm

Formula2tr persulphate Ammonium Sodium percarbonate Ammonium bicarbonate Sodium perborate monohydrate Magnesium carbonate (light)

l l ^l l { C OLOR A N TS

10.0 grn

E-*

140

A HANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S

Evaluation of skin or can producetoxit As hair colorantscan causesensitization effects, it is imperativeto do testsfor this apart from normal quality test for ingredientsand their quantity. (l) Sensitizationtest : This can be done on the animal skin by applyingdyestuffor the preparationand observingthe effecton the skin. studycan be doneof the relatedtissuesor histopathological lf necessary, cells when applied. to evaluatethc (2) Long-term toxic effect : This is also necessary long-termeffect. This can also be doneon animal.

CHAPTER-11

Hair GroomingAids llnir is an important componentof overall appearanceof a person rvlrcthcra man or woman. Howeverclean or well-dressedthe person nrrry be, untidy hair will give a messyoverall impression. So, hair groorningaids are importantgroup of cosmeticsand are usedby both rrrcrrand women to keep the hair in order for good looking and also to t rrlrunce overallappearance.Settingor controlof hair is moreimportant l() lrany men than the glossyhair. Men'sproductsare mainly basedon rrrt: of oils, fatty materialsor resins. Women'semphasisis on both rcrprirements. Variousproductsare marketedas hair grooming aids. They include lrrilliantines,hair oils, hair creams,hair dressings,hair lacquersor iprlys. hair lotions. Their compositions vary but basicallythey are used krr settingof hair and improvethe appearance.They can be all called as preparations. rler:rlrative Somehair grooming aids are very similar to emollient preparations nnd producenatural appearanceand gloss by compensatingthe loss of wnlcr and fat in the hair shaft. Other preparationsadditionally contain lix"'r,biologicalsubstances that affectthe hair papillae,antisepticagents. I'rcparations suchas settinglotionssoftenthe hair and fix it in position rrs il is dressed. Many of the commercialproductshave multiple lrrrtr:tions. Various hpir grooming aids which are discussedin this chapterare r,ntegorized accordingto their compositions. (l) Brilliantinesand hair oil (2) Hair setting lotions (3) Hair creams (4) Hair lacquersor sprays l4l

142


t h ||

l l ^l l tC ;R OOMI N GA ID S

143

(1) BRILLIANTINES AND HAIR OILS

Formula 2

Carnauba wax Wheat germ oil Petroleumjelly Paraffin wax Perfume Colour Preservative

These products are mainly based on wax and oils. Depending on thc consistency they may be classified into the following products(a) Hard : Stick brilliantine (b) Soft : Brilliantine (c) Liquid: Hair oils, liquid brilliantine These preparationscompletely adhere to the hair surface and hold the hair in position and make them lustrous. The oily or waxy matenals, which are used, make the hairs tacky and surroundings of one hair adhere with that of other hairs and keep the hair down by increased weight of adhering materials. They can also act by covering the hair by thin layer and thus neutralizing the electrostatic charges generated on hair by shampooing and/or combing which makes a repulsion among hairs and makes them look ruffled. More viscous the preparation, the fixative effect will be more. However, too tacky preparationswill also attract dirt and dust. Thus the preparationsshould be just tacky enough to hold the hairs. Substanceswhich are used to get tackinessare petrolatum,beesw.ar, animal fats, castor oil, coconut oil, high viscosity rnineraloils. Incclrporation of paraffin waxes, spermaceti,low-viscosity mineral oils, isopropyi myristate lowers the tackiness. Originally preparationscontaining mineral oils and wuxes were termed brilliantine and those with animal and vegetable fats were called as pomeds. This differentiation is no more used presently. Application of the oily material should be in thin layer and of even nature to get the glossiness. Suitable oil soluble perfume should be added. Preservativesand antioxidants are also required to incorporate, particularly in preparationscontaining vegetable nr animal oils. Colour can also be added optionally. SOLID BRILLIANTINE

5.0 gm 20.0 gm 70.0 gm 5.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

l\4clt lhe waxes at about 70oC and add oil and jelly. Mix thoroughly. Arl,l cokrur, perfume and preservativeafter cooling. BRILLIANTINE Formula 3

Isopropyl myristate Lanolin Mineral oil Sunflower oil Perfume Colour Antioxidant Preservative

24.0 gm 1.0 gm 55.0gm 20.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.

Ir4clt all oils and waxes together at 70oC and mix well. lrrnrc,colour, preservative,antioxidant after cooling. 1rr.r

Add

IIAIR OILS Formula4 Mineral oil Isopropyl myristate Perfume Preservative

85.0gm 15.0gm q.s. q.s.

'I'irke isopropyl myristate and mineral oil together and mix perfume. Arltl preservativeand f,rlter.

F'ormula I

Petroleumjelly Paraffin wax Perfume Preservative

90.0 gm 10.0gm q.s. q.s.

Melt the wax. Add ielly and mix it at about 70"C. Add perfume and preseruativeafter cooling.

Fo r m u l a .5

Mineral oil Acetoglyceride Isopropyl myristate Perfume Preservative

75.0gm 10.0gm 15.0gm q.s. q.s. Mix all the ingredients together. Add perfumeand preservative and l i l tcr.

t lr ll

145

AIDS tlAlR GROOMING

A IIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS

t44

Fulycthylene glycol or its monofatty acid estersare also incorporated to lrrrpnd lustre and hold the hair in place.

SPIRIT BRILI,IANTINE F o rmu l a6

Isopropylmyristate Cetyl alcohol Toilet spirit Perfume Preservative Colour

20.0 gm 2.0 gm 78.0 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Mix isopropylmyristate,cetyl alcoholand toilet spirit together. Add perfume,colour and preservative. (2) HAIR SETTING LOTIONS For a long time hair settinglotionsare in usp. Theseproductscan be gum based,resin basedor can be purely alcoholbasedlotions. Gum mucilage-basedlotions partly have been replacedby resin lotions. Theseproducts,after application,dry to form invisiblecontinuous elastic film that keepsthe hair firmly positioned. They do not contain,normally,hair conditioners,nor do they impart gloss,but they are excellentfixers of hairs. Productsof early stagesmainly containedgum mucilage,alcoholand alkali. The alkali renderedthe hair shaftsoft to help in setting. Alcohol is used to help in quick drying. There are several gums in use' Tragacanth,karaya,alginate,pectin are most popularones. Acacia is comparativelylesspopular. Presentlysyntheticpolymersor resinsare also used and polyvinyl pyrrolidone,polyvinyl alcohol, polyethyleneglycols, dimethyl hydanresinare good as hair fixers. Castoroil and mineral toin-formaldehyde, oils are incorporatedas plasticizersto makethe film elastic. Also watersolubleor water-dispersiblelanolin derivativesare usefulfor this purpose. Humectants,like gtycerol,sorbitol,help the film not to becometoo dry and brittle. The productsare norrnally colouredand perfumedand also need preservativesas mucilageor resinsare favourablefor microbial growth. and basicallyalcoholicsoluSomeproductsare purely alcohol-based tion of perfume oil and can be coloured. But they are not very good to hold or fix the hair. Sometimessomeother additivesare incorporatedin thesepreparations. They are tincture ofcapsicum and tincture ofarnica to enhance stimulating effect and antiseptic substanceslike o-phenylphenol,quatemaryammoniumcompoundsetc. hexachlorophene,

HATR SETTING LOTIONS Formula7

1.2 gm 10.0gm 5.0 gm 83.8gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

Tragacanth Alcohol Glycerine Water Perfume Colour Preservative

l)issolve preservative in glycerine. Mix tragacanth in the glycerine rrrrrltlrcrr add water. Add glycerine and mix it properly. Add colour and perlirrrrc.

Formula8 Tragacanth Glycerine Watersolublelanolin Cholesterol Water Perfume Preservative Colour

1.5 gm 5.0 gm 2.0 gm 0.1 gm 91.4 gm q.s. q.s. q.s.

l)issolve the preservative in glycerine. Add cholesterol and tragar ililltt to prepare a smooth paste. Mix water, water-soluble lanolin and with lrrrlrrrnc separately. Add this mixture to the tragacanth mixture vigorousstining.

Formula9 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone Carboxy vinyl polymer Triethanolamine Alcohol Water Perfume Preservative

2.00 gm 0.60 gm 0.75 gm 10.00gm 86.65gm q.s. q.s.

l)issolve polyvinyl pynolidone and preservativein alcohol' Disperse tlre polyrner in triethanolamine and then add water gradually with stirrlrrg. Add the alcohol solution and perfume, mix properly.

146


( lr ll

Formula10 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone: Vinyl acetate copolymer(60:40) 1.00gm Isopropylmyristate 0.15 gm Alcohol 70.00gm Water 29.35gm Perfume q.s. Dissolvethe copolymerin the alcoholwith stining. Add the isopropyl myristate and perfume. Then slowly add the water with constanl stirring.

Perfume

q.s. q.s

Normally 0.14% concentrationof calcium hydroxide can be used. llrwcver, when higher concentrationis requiredthe solubility of calcium lryrlroxide can be increased by incorporating saccharine and forming rirltium saccharate. Beeswax-boraxcombinationcan also be used for rrrnkirrgthese creams. These creams can be stabilized by incorporating rirrc stearate. Viscosity can be increasedby incorporating cetyl alcohol.

Dissolve the resin in alcohol with stirring. Add the isopropyl alcohol and diethyl phthalate. Add the perfume. Then add glycerine and water with stirring.

Oil-in-water type creams are less greasy and when applied make the lrair wctty as water is continuous phase. When water gets evapoqatedthe t'il cornes in contact with hair. They can be easily diluted with water rn(l can be well distributed on hair by wet comb. These preparationscan I'r'trradewith very less amount of oil. Stearic acid and beeswaxare used nr erttulsi$ing agent. But these creams make the hair dull as water is rol1lil1uestphase and oil is a dispersedphase. But fixative property is good. These creams also contain humectant to prevent fast drying of wrrlcr. Glossy effect appears only after evaporation of water. Oil-inrvnlcr creams can also be made by triethanolamine stearate, glyceryl rrrorrostearate, etc. In all these creams perfumes, colours and preservaItvcs are also incorporated.

Formula 12

Isopropylpalmitate Tween20 O-phenylphenol Alcohol (95%) Water Perfume Colour

147

lrrrir. Appearanceof hair is better than in case of brilliantine. These ( rriuns are preparedby using calcium salts of fatty acids which produces rv/o type emulsion. Also non-ionic surfactantslike spans can also be rnr:d to make w/o type creams. Other emulsifuing agents can be used wool alcohols, lanolin derivatives. These preparationsare not much 'rre slublc. They can get separatedeasily, particularly with increasedtempcrillure. But stability of creamsmade by using non-ionic surfactantsis lrcltcr. As, normally, the oil content is high in these creams they soil r |rllrcs and are greasy in use. But when some specific non-ionic srrrlirctants are used the washing may become easier as washing with wnlcr converts the cream from ilo to o/w and is easily removed. The :lrrbility of the productsis influencedby(a) Specific gravity of oil (b) Proportion of oil and water (c) Method of manufacturing

F o rmu l a1 l Dimethyl hydantoin-formaldehyderesin 2.0 gm Alcohol 70.0 gm Isopropyl alcohol 5.0 gm Diethyl phthalate 1.0 gm Glycerine 0.5 gm Water 21.5 sm Dye

llAlR GROOMING AIDS

6.0 gm 3.0 gm 0.1 gm 49.9 gm 41.0 gm q.s. q.s.

(3) HArR CREAMS Hair creams can be either water-in-oil or oil-in-water type. Water-inoil type creams have more holding capacity than the latter and provide better gloss to the hair.

WATER-IN-OIL TYPE CREAMS Formula 13 Beeswax Mineral oil Paraflin wax Lime water (fresh)

Water-in-oil type creams impart nearly similar effect as anhydrous products like brilliantine. Presenceof ilo emulsifoing agents helps in stabilizing emulsion as well as proper distribution of oil phase to the

t _.f.

3.5 gm 37.5 gm 1.0 gm 58.0 gm

148

A H,ANDBOOKOF COSMETICS

q.s. q.s.

Perfume Preservative

Melt beeswax,mineral oil and paraffin wax together, but adding graduallyin increasingmelting point, at about 70"C. Warm the lime water and add slowly to the oil phasewith continuousstirring. Cool while stirring and add perfumewhen temperatureis about 35oC. Formula14 Beeswax Mineral oil Petroleumjelly Zinc stearate Lime water (fresh) Perfume Preservative

4.0 gm 37.5 gm 5.0 gm 2.0 gm 51.5gm q.s. q.s 4.0 gm 32.5 gm 2.5 gm 2.0 gm 0.5 gm 58.5 gm q.s q.s.

Melt hrst three componentsat about 70oC and add borax and sorbitan sesquioleateand mix properly. Mix borax with water, heat it and add slowly with continuousstirring. Cool while stirring and add perfume when cooledto 40"C. OIL-IN-WATER

CREAM

Formula 16

Mineral oil Stearicacid Triethanolamine Water Perfume Preservative

149

t]AIR CROOMINGAIDS

Formulal7 35.5gm Mineraloil 2.5 gm Stearicacid 2.0 gm Glyceryl monostearate 4.5 gm Propyleneglycol 1.0gm Triethanolamine gm 54.5 Water q.s. Perfume q.s. Preservative llcnt stearic acid and mineral oil togetherat about 70"C' Mix propyleneglycol (with dissolvedpreservative), glyrcryl monostearate, and water and heat it to same70oC and mix with first trietlurrrolamine ilrre with continuousstining. Cool slowly and add perfumewhen the is at about40"C. tFrul)erature Formulalt

Formula15 Beeswax Mineral oil Petroleumjelly Sorbitansesquioleate Borax Water Perfume Preservative

I h II

45.0 gm 3.5 gm 1.5 gm 50.0 gm q.s. q.s.

Heat mineral oil, stearic acid at about 70oC and add triethanolamine. Add water while stirring. Cool and add perfume.

25.0 gm Lanolin 1.0 gm alcohol Cetyl gm 9.0 monostearate Glyceryl gm 62.0 Water gm 3.0 Glycerine q.s. Perfume q.s. Preservative lleut lanolin and cetyl alcoholat 70oC. Take glyceryl monostearate lrrtl waterand alsoheatto 70"C. Add the aqueousmixture with lanolin witlr continuousstirring. Cool and add perfume. Preservativecan be rlirrolvedin glyoerineand mix to the preparedcream. (4) HAIR LACQUERS OR SPRAYS llair tacquersor sprays are used to hold the hair setting firmly, rlar:inlly in women,in shapeand control the looseendswithout disturblirg the good appearance. These products make the hair dry very rlrrickly. As lotions have water and leave the hair damp, lacquersor rPruys have advantageover them due to their quick drying. Initial of ;rroductswere not much good and over the years a good amount t.lrangehas occuned. Some lacquers are nearly same as gum-based appear;rreparationsas film forming substancesare also present. The different a them perfumes make of choice and use characteristics, ltco, product. They mainly contain a film former in a suitable vehicle and rlong with a plasticizeror modifier.

150


The basiccompositionis:(a) Film former (b) Plasticizeror modifier (c) Vehicle or solvent (d) Perfume In very early period shellacwas usedas film former which contains 957.io of resinoussubstances like alevritic,shellolic.kenolic and butolic acids. Shellac is insolublein water but soluble in alcohol, isopropyl alcohol and in alkali media. Though betterfilm formersare available, still someprofessionalhairdressers useshellac-based sprays.Otherearly film formers were benzoin,styrax. Afterward polyvinyl pyrrolidonehas been found very good. But as it is hygroscopic,slowly water droplets precipitateon hair and make it dull and unattractive. To overcomethis problem shellac, lanolin, natural rosin lanopals can be incorporated along with polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Incorporationof siliconesalso gives betterfeeling,longerdurationof holding and betterappearance. Polyvinyl pynolidone can be replacedby other polymerslike ethyl cellulose,dimethylhydantoin-formaldehyde polymer,copolymerof polyvinyl pyrrolidoneand vinyl acetate As most of thesepolymersare solublein alcohol,it is mainly usedas solvent or vehicle. When the polymer has some solubility in water, partially water can be usedas solventalong with alcohol. Alcohol has added advantageof quick evaporationand drying. Drying rate is an important factor for sprays. Plasticizeror modifier is requiredto have elasticfilm coveringthe hair. For this castoroil, lanolin derivatives,diethyl phthalate,propylene glycol monolaurate,etc. are used. Selectionof suitableperfumeis very important. Perfumeshouldbe stableand long acting. Preservative is not normallyrequiredas alcohol concentrationis very high. The productsare marketedin containerwith spraysystemor as aerosols. Formula 19

Polyvinyl pyrrolidone Dimethyl phthalate Silicon Alcohol Perfume

2.50 gm 2.00 gm 0.05 gm 95"45gm q.s.

Preparation can be made by simple solution techniques.

r h ll

l5l

AIDS IIAIRGROOMING Formula20 resin formaldehyde hydantoin Dimethyl (25% alcohol) in isopropyl solution Shellac Silicone fluid Isopropyl myristate Alcohol Perfume

5.0 0.5 0.1 0.4 94.0 q.s.

gm gm gm gm gm

I'rcpzrreby sirnple solution techniques.

Formula21 (60:a0) Polyvinyl pyrrolidone/Vinylacetate Dimethylphthalate Alcohol Water Perfume Formula22 Shellac Castor oil Diethyl phthalate Alcohol Perfume By simple solution process.

2.50 gm 0.25 gm 50.00 grn 47.25 gm q.s. 4.0 gm 0.2 gm 0.2 gm 95.6 gm q.s.

l " r' nl unti on Apart from identification of the ingredients and their quantity a few rrllrcrlcsts are to be carriedout: ( l) Stabilif of the ingredients : This is done by normal stability etrrrly ol'the active ingredients at room temperature or by accelerated ql nl ri l ' i l ystudy. (2) l'hysical stability : This is particularly important for emulsion r\llr, l)roparationsto evaluate the stability of the emulsion creams' This r dn l)c done by accelerated test by exposing the preparations alterrtrlrvcly to heat and cold. (.!) llheology : This can be studied by using suitable equipment Ir'r:ic()rneter)to rneasurethe viscosity and effect of storage on it'

r h ll

CHAPTER-12

Hair Wavers,Curlers and Straighteners It is a natural desire for all, specially women, to have a beautiful antl attractive curly or wavy hair. It is well known that a method ol permanent hair waving was practised by early Egyptian women. Thc method was used to be winding a mesh on a cane stick, covering it with liquid mud and allorving it to bake dry in the sun. Over the years thc method has been modified to make the curling long-lasting, better anrl faster. As, always, the curling hair is more attractive than straight hair and also can be arranged in further attractive styles. There is a demantl for techniques or methods for making hair curling or waving. To makr' wigs of permanent curly hair, wig-makers used to wound hair on u curling rod and immersed it in boiling water or steam for a few hours. Il borax or mild alkali was added to the hot water the time of immersiorr could be less. Early workers who pioneered in this area are Charles Nessler, E. Fredric and Eugene Suter who suggestedchemicals to add in boiling water to achieve curly hair. Principle of Action The structure of cortex gives the hair the definite form and it, mainly. consists of long parallel polypeptide chains connectedby cross linkages The chains are, normally, folded and in dry condition it cannot bc stretched much. But, in wet condition they can be stretched up to l00ol, or even more. Permanentwaving consists of the following stages. (1) Differential stretching of the hair : Hair is thoroughly wetted. then rolled and the polypeptide chains are extended with variable forcc and thus a tension is created on linkages. (2) Disruption of the cross-linkages : Most of the cross-linkages are broken chemically and the tension is thus relaxed. (3) Re-establishment of cross-linkage : Then the cross-linkagesart: restored in such a way that the hair is no longer trained in its new rolled form by drying or cooling of the hair or by removing all chemicals.

t52

AND STRAIGHTENERS IIAIRWAMRS. CURLERS

153

Itlrthods snd Preparations for Waving Virrious methods and preparations are used to achieve waving of lrnirr, 'l'hey are discussedbelow: ( | ) Wave set preparations : At room temperature or with moderate lrcnlirrp,.,water can break hydrogen bond and salt linkages but not rli,rrrlphidebridges. This can produce limited swelling and softening of llrc lrrrirs. This helps to arrangethe hair-setting as desired and the setting tr rrr'lricvedby quick evaporation of water by some means. The waves grrr'Pirrcd by this technique are not long-lasting as amide and disulphide Irlhugcs are undisruptedand the new hydrogen bond and salt bridges are qtorr lt)gsenedby moisture from atmosphere and perspiration and the ,reilirrgis disrupted. The setting life can be enhanced by incorporating rrrrrcirrsin setting lotions, such as pectin, carrageen,alginate, tragacanth, hnrrryaltum or synthetic film former which form a thin film surrounding tlr(. lruir after the preparation is applied and dried. The mechanical retristirnceof the film keeps the hair for some time in the new arrangerrrr'rrr, l:'ormulaeof a few such preparationsare mentioned below: Formula I Apple pectin Citric acid Rose water Perfume Preservative

1.0 gm 0.5 Gm 98.5 gm q.s. q.s.

l)issolve preservative and citric acid in water at high temperature. Arkl the pectin and stir vigorously to dissolve the pectin completely. Arld perfume finally.

Formula2 Sodiumcarbonate,anhydrous Alginic acid Rosewater Perfume Preservative

3.0 gm 6.0 gm 91.0 Gm q.s. q.s.

and sodiumcarbonatein rosewater. Add liirst dissolvepreservative nlg,irricacid with continuousstining to dissolveit completely' (2) Hot wave preparations : As it is mentionedearlier,primitive lrot wavingmethodwas utilizedby Egyptianwomenby winding a mesh ol'hair over a stick and coveringit with liquid rnud and drying it in sun.

154

I lr l/

A IIANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

155

PERMANENT WAVING SOLUTIONS

over the years the method has been changed and chemical agents are being utilized in place of mud. But the basic principle remains the same. Wet hair can be stretched to 100%oor more and soft hair, made by chemical treatment, can be waved permanently. In these preparations, the main ingredient is water which vaporizes when the hair is heated.

Formula 3

Ammoniumhydroxide Sodiumcarbonate Potassiumsulphite Water Perfume

As mentioned in the earlier preparationswater can disrupt the hydrogen bond and salt linkages but is unable to disrupt disulphide or amide linkages, some chemical agents are incorporated in hot-wave preparations to achieve the disruption of the latter. Bases such as sodium and potassium hydroxides and carbonates as well as borax were preferred earlier. But they have the problem that they fuse with hair and form a hard and brittle cuticle with keratin. So, they were replaced by ammonia which evaporates while drying and leaves no residue. But ammonia imparts an unpleasant odour and mostly evaporates before complete swelling and gives the hair a reddish tint. Then ammonia was combined or completely replaced with less volatile bases like mono/or triethanolamine,or morpholine.

20.0 gm 4.0 gm 2.0 gm 74.0 gm q.s.

l'repare by simple gradual mixing and making solution. Formula4 Ammonium carbonate Sodium carbonate Borax Water Perfume

0.25gm 0.45 gm 2.65 gm 90.65gm q.s.

l)repareby gradual mixing and solution. Formula5 Monoethanolamrne Tri-isopropylamine Sodium hydroxide Sodium sulphite Turkey red oil Water Perfume

Sodium or potassium sulphites or bisutrphitesare being incorporated permanent in waving preparations to disrupt disulphide linkages. Also successfuluse of cyclic organic sulphonates,such as glycol sulphite or butadiene sulphonate,has been reported. lncorporation of surfactantsin the preparations promotes rapid wetting of the hair and helps in solubilizing the perfume oil. Some patent preparations reportedly use sequestering agent, EDTA etc., to prevent the oxidation of the solution by inactivating the catalytic metal ions. Also addition of conditioninc agents has been suggestedby some workers. The stepwise general procedure for hot waving is as follows. needs to be modified according to need and preparations.

llAlR WAIVERS.CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS

3.0 gm 3.0 gm 0.6 gm 3.0 gm 1.5 gm 88.9gm q.s.

Nlrr llrst four components with part of water. Take turkey red oil dlrl ;r1'rlirrrreand mix with some amount of water and mix with first = rr111111v11, Make vol um e.

It

,{prr,l lrom using electrical heating or preheatedrods, chemical heatirE! (,rtr lic also used in permanentwaving. In this method the heat is grft'rirt.tl by reacting exothermic materials after application of chemir al', rrlolrgwith a moisteningmedium.

(a) Hair is cleaned to remove greasy or dusty materials using shampoo. (b) Hair is divided in several parts and wound around a suitable roller with little tension.

llrt' lrcrrlis normally generatedby any of the fbllowing processes. 1I) Oxidation reduction (l ) l l ydration ( |) Neutralization

(c) A wet strip soaked with suitable solution is wound over the hair. (rt) The whole set is heated and dried by encasing in a suitable electrical heater or by other means"

I lrr r'lrcrnic'ally heatingmethod was developedlong back in England in lr,'l At early stage of the developmentof this method quicklime rrer',ili('(l rvilll a rnoisteningagent such as ammonium sulphate,agar or *tilrr,ilr:r Alicrrwardsseveral other agents have been deveioped and

t=e-

156

A HANDBOOK OFCOSMETICS

t h I.1 IIAIR WAIVERS. CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS

they include active agents like aluminium and its chloride and sulphate, barium salts, ammonium salts of organic acids, copper carbonate,copper nitrate, iron frllings, etc. (3) Cold waving procedures : In cold waving procedure, a permanent waving can be achieved by making new permanent cross-linkages in hair without applying heat. This method has partly replaced hot waving method in several places.

WAVING SOLUTIONS Formula5 Thioglycollic acid Ammonia (35%ow/w) Water Perfume

Thioglycollic acid is widely used for cold waving and used in 4 to 8o%depending on the need. In addition to thioglycollic acid, coldwave so l ut ions alway s c o n ta i n a n a l k a l i , preferabl y ammoni a. monoethanolamine, isopropanolamine. Strong bases like sodium or potassium hydroxide may be used in very low concentrations,but not much preferred. Triethanolamine is also not preferred. After processing the hair with reducing agents for required period, the hair, then, is to be neutralized using an oxidizing solution for 5-10 minutes. Normally after unwinding the hair one more treatment with oxidizing solution is done and the hair is made tc intended style. Cold waving preparationscan be in solution, powders or creams.

6.62 gm 2.ll gm 91.27gm q.s.

Prepareby simple solution.

Cold waving can be achieved by different methods as mentioned below: (a) Chemical neutralization (b) Atmospheric oxidation (c) Special methods like using pin perms, roller perms, etc. It has been observed that alkali solution of substituted mercaptan, thioglycollic acid, reduces the disulphide linkages in the keratin. The pH should be above 7.0 and below 10.0, preferably between 9-2 to 9.5. The substitutedgroup of mercaptan may be ionized or non-ionized. The concentration of rnercaptan is expected to be between I to l.SYo. The alkali vehicle should be a volatile base.

t57

Formula7 Thioglycollic acid Monoethanolamine Ammonia (35o/ow/w) Water Perfume

7.0 gm 8.0 gm 2.0 gm 83.0 gm q.s.

Prepareby simple solution. COLD WAVE POWDERS Formula8 Thioglycollic acid Ammonium carbonate Sodium carbonate

20.0 gm 20.0 gm 24I gm

Mix thioglycollic acid and ammoniumbicarbonateuntil no more r rulrrrrrdioxideis liberated.Now add sodiumcarbonateand mix till no Irrrrr|'sirre presentand pack it properlyto avoid moisture. Before use ll grno(-thispowderis to be dissolvedin 100ml water. Nrulrullzer

The total process can be divided into the following steps:-

(1) Cleaningthe hair to removegreaseand dust. (2) Whole hair is divided into parts and waving lotion is applied thoroughlyand woundon curlers. (3) Kept for about20-40 minutes. (4) Then the hair is rinsedwith neutralizerand kept for l0 minutes.

(s)Hair is removed lrom the hair curlers and once aeain washed with neutralizingsolution. (6) Finally the hair is rinsedoff.

I lrc ncutralizinglotion consistsof-( l) A weakacid suchas acetic,citrie,tartaricacid. (2) An oxidizing agent such as hydrogenperoxide,sodium or potassium bromate, sodium perborate, ammonium persulphate, sodiumchlorate.etc.

OFCOSMETICS A HANDBOOK

I58

I h L'

The neutralizing agents are marketed as aqueous solutions or in powder form. Hydrogen peroxide is marketed as solid or as ureahydrogen peroxide complex.

159

rerlrrcirrglotion, processingof hair and neutralization processare done as ttt ttttl

As lor normal permanent waving the hair is tightly wound over r rrrlt'rs,it takesa plenty of time to set the hair. In the above-mentioned rrr.llrrtl lcscttingdoes not take time. After the treatmentthe hair can be ,ltrtr tly dried and can be reseteasily or need not require to set at all.

NEUTRALIZINGLOTIONS Formula9 26.4 gm Hydrogenperoxide 1.2 gm Citric acid gm 2.8 lauryl ether Polyoxyethylene gm 0.4 Rosin opacifier gm 69.2 Water

(.1) Instant perms : These are more or less same as chemically lerrtrrlizcd perms. But here the processingtime after winding is nil. llrr conlact of the reducing agent and the hair is done before winding. tl"nnrlly the processingtime is made less by using more of free r l I I | | | l l )| I l i l .

F o rm u l a1 0 Sodium bromate Polyglycol 400 laurate Diglycol stearate Glyceryl monostearate Sodium cetyl sulphate Polyglycol 400 Water

llAIl{ WAIVERS.CURLERSAND STRAIGHTENERS

20.0 gm 5.0 gm 1.0 gm 1.0gm 2.5 gm 0.5 gm 60.0 gm

I lrioglycollate is toxic to eye and irritant to skin, if remains in r .111;11 1 lirr a long time. So, care should be taken while applying to same r1t. i rrrrlski n. llrlr' lilraighteners Ilrrrugh the hair straightenersare actionwise opposite to waving or trrrlirrpiprocess but it is discussed here as this is also achieved by nr,r,lrl.yirrg the hair structureby breaking cross linkages.

Atmospheric Oxidation

llrrir straighteners are also, to some extent, related to cold-wave l,rcprrirlions. In this the thioglycollate treatment is done for reverse lurlxrsrr. They are used to straighten the curly or kinky hair by breaking tlr,' ,lisulphide linkages of curly hair and reforming them in uncurled

In this method the hair is reduced by the same wa)' g;; inentioned in earlier topic by using alkaline thioglyccllic acid but the hair is kept for sel,/ersihcurs in curlcrs ani.laiiowed for atmosphericoxidation' Then the hair is reieaseclfrom the curlers and washed and set as desired. As it is kept for 5 hcurs, it can only be used at home, but the hair is treated with

sl l 'tl rt.

I lrcrc are different methods or techniques for straightening of hairs.

less reagents.

{ l) llot comb-pressing oil methods : In this method, first petrolrrrrrrjclly is applied to straightenthe hair and then eombed using a hot lrrlirl A rnixture of,petrolatum and paraffin can also be used. Petrolarrrr :lr:ts as a heat transfer agent between hot metal and hair. After rhrirrglhc hot comb, the hair is washedand dried. The method is not a l rettni l l terlone. tt

Special Methods Different and special techniques and accessoriesare used to achieve cold-waving and are mentioned below:-(1) Tepid warntr air wave : In this method the thioglycollate treatrnent is clone at slightly elevated temperature for faster and better result. Using elevatecltemperature will also reduce the required concentration of thioglycolhrte. 'fhe heating can be done by electrical process or by

(2) Oaustic preparation : In this method caustic alkali preparations tr I r('rrn lbrm are applied for straightening purpose. The alkali is used irr lr.trvccrr 4 to 9o/oand higher concentration makes the process faster. ln lrrcpurcthe cream, selectionof oil phase and surfactantshas to be rlrrrrct'rrrclully. They should not form salt with alkali. As alkali causes rlirrrirf'.c to scalp or eye, care should be taken.

hood dryer. (2) Itoller and pire perm$ : \\rhen the curling is intended fbr a short time, say f,ervweeks, this modifiectrrnethod can be very usefill. The hair can be r,vorrndover large diameter(l%") roller curlers or over ordinary hairpins tcl make curls of 1" in cliameter. .Tlren the applicatinn of

1.1) Ohcmical hair reducing agents : Thioglycollatereducingagents r trr l)c rrscdhere also, as they break disulphide linkages of curly hair and

t=rl

160

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICTi

straightenthem. The curlersare removedafter thioglycoflate treatment, when the hair is in soft condition. Thenthe hair is rinsed with neutralizing lotions. After this a suitablecreamis appliedto hold the hair firmly in position. Evaluation It is necessary to measurethe quantityof the chemicaragentspresenr in the preparationsas use of higher toncentrationis toxic and nol permittedby severalcountries. Also identificationtests for otheringredientsare to be done. (l) Toxic or side effects: Severaltestsare requiredto evaluatethc toxic effects;the effectscan be scalp irritation,damageto the general health, incompatibilitydue to cross-sensitization leading to deriratitis. This can be done on animal or by patchtest on humanvolunteers. (2) stabilify test : It is necessary to test the stabilityand usefulness of the productduring sherflife, as severaringredientsare present. This can be done by normarstabilitytest or accelerated stabilitvtest.

CHAPTER-13

Hair Removers llerrrrvtl of superfluoushair has been in practice from the ancient pariod. Egyptiandancersand courtiers,thousandsofyears ago, knew Iruw kr remove hair growth on arrns and legs. Shaving by men, Ir,lrnbly, startedmuch before that. one of the earliest substances tep'rlcd to be used by the Egyptian dancersfor removal of unwanted hrrtris rhusma,amixture of quicklimeand arsenicalpyritesin aratio of I .t l' powder form this was mixed with aqueousalkali before use. Arrrlhersubstance reportedto be usedfor the samepurposewasorpiment whirrlris arsenictrisulphide.Anothertechniquewhich wasp'sed,in early ql'ges, fbr removal of unwantedhair was rubbing the skin surfacewith Iilllnt(:cstone. I'rirctice of hair removal by men is mainly removal of facial hair, ;rnrlly .r totally. This is termed as shaving and preparationsfor this will I'r. discussedin the subsequentchapter (Shaving preparations). w
!lepilatories

"s

l)cpilatories are the preparationsused for degradationofthe superfluhair chemically without affecting the skin, Depilatory removes thc l6l

162

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI('S

hair at the neck of the hair follicle and thus has advantage over razor shaver which removes hair on a level with the surface of the epidermis. Razor shaven hair growth is thus notiieable sooner than depilatory removal. As mentioned in the introduction, the first depilatory is reportedto bc rhusma used by the Egyptian dancers. The depilatories act by degrading the hair keratin. As it is known that keratin is sensitive to the action ol' strongly alkaline aqueous solutions and reducing agents, mbst of the depilatories consist of such agents. The alkaline reducing agents cause the swelling of the hair fibres and break the cystine bridges between adjacent polypeptide chains as a first step to the complete degradationol' the hair. As stratum corneum also contains keratin, depilatories may cause local damage of the skin by also affecting skin keratin when applied for hair removal. This effect can be avoided or minimized by properly formulating with correct choice of agents in proper concentration and applying it for a short period of time. So, the preparationshould be such that it can preferentially and rapidly reacts with hair for selective degradation of hair keratin without damaging the skin. So, the desirable charactersof an ideal depilatory preparation are(l) Selectivein action (2) Efficient and rapid action in few minutes (3) Non-toxic and non-allergic to the skin (4) Odourless (5) Easy to apply (6) Stable (7) Non-staining to clothing Ingredients Different substancesare used for removal of hair in depilatory preparations. Apart from the active component of depilatory agent and water as vehicle, the preparations also contain humectants such as glycerine, propylene glycol; thickening agents to enhancethe viscosity; surfactants to emulsiff incorporated fat, if any. Also polyethylene grycors are used to form a film on the skin. optionally, sometimes, astringents, rocal anaestheticsor mucins and inert powders are also incorporated. (l) Inorganic sulphides : First depilatory reported, rhusma, contained arsenic trisulphide (As2S3). It is no more used as it can be dangerous to skin, particularly the skin not in good condition. The sulphides of sodium, calcium, strontium and barium are there for use as

t lr lr

l l ^l l r R E MO VERS

163

rfe;rrlirlrrry.Sodium sulphide,2oloaqueoussolution at pH 12, is a strong rlcprlrrtory and can degrade hair in 6-7 minutes. But it has a strong rr,tr(ln ()n tlre skin, so not preferred nowadays. Barium sulphide is hrplrly loxic and calcium sulphide is less toxic but also less effective as rlrprlrrlory. Depilatory activity of the magnesiumsulphide is also very hrrv lrrrl zinc sulphide is poorly water soluble. Strontium sulphide is a l,r'tter c:hoice as depilatory. Though it is not as active as sodium rrrllrlridc but when used at high concentration of about 25-50o/oit can ,fr'p.rirrlc lrair in 3-4 minutes. At ls%o concentrationthe same can be rrrlricvcd by 5-7 minutes. For optimum activity pH should be about 12' I lrt' slrort period of action almost does not cause any skin irritation or ,lrrrrirgc. One disadvantageof inorganic sulphides is unpleasant odour lrr,rlrrccd by formation of hydrogen sulphide on hydrolysis. Sometimes tt rcnririnseven after washings. 12) Thioglycollates ; Most widely used active ingredientsin depilat'r ics, presentday, are substitutedmercaptans,especially thioglycollates' I lrcscare also used in conjunction with an alkali. Calcium thioglycollate rrt ,'5 to 4Yo is a good depilatory agent when used in conjunction with r rrltiurn or strontiumhydroxide and at pH between 1l-12. At concentralrrrrs below 2o/o it is very slow and above 4%o there is not much r'rrlrirrrccment in activity. Depending on concentration of calcium tlrroglycollateit takes 5-15 minutes for removal of hair. This substance r', lcss toxic and odour is much less than sulphides. l.ithium thioglycollate has also been reportedly used as a depilatory rrp.crrt.Apart from calcium and strontium hydroxides alkali hydroxides, ,.,r,lirrnror potassium, can also be used as bases. Cetyl alcohol is also rrrcorporatedto obtain a cream like product. (.!) Stannites : In the period of 1930-1945 several patents have rclrortcd use of stannites. Particularly sodium stannite (NaH3SnO3) is a nrrrc,lrreported active ingredient in depilatory preparations. In presence ol wuter these salts impart a strong reducing and alkaline effect. It is orlrrrrless, in comparison to sulphides. But these substanceswere not krurrdin much use later. (4) Enzymes : Keratinase enzymes have also been found in use as rl.rpilatory. They are non-irritant and odourless. Enzymes digest the lcratin of hair at a buffered optimum pH of 7-8. Enzyme is used at a t'orrcentrationbetween 3-47o. (5) Other additives : Humectants are incorporated to prevent quick tlrying on the skin. Substancesthat can be used are glycerine, sorbitol, propyleneglycol.

164

A HANDBoOK oF coSMETtCs

Thickening agents,like methyl cellulose,starch,mucins, are als. incorporatedto achievea proper consistencyfor appryingon skin and t. help in dispersingany solidsused. Sometimesinert powders like talc, calcium carbonate,zinc oxide, osmo-kaolin,titaniumoxide are incorporated to get consistency, preventing quick drying on the skin and to makea visible film. Polyethyleneglycols are usedto form a film which is easyto wash off. Fats are incorporatedto have skin-protectingor conditioning effect. Surfactantsare used to emulsify any fats incorporatedor to promote wetting of the hair. They also help in washingoff the preparationsafter use. sometimesastringents,local anaesthetics or disinfectantsare used. Water-solubleperfumesand preservatives are also incorporated. Formula I

Strontiumsulphide Talc Methyl cellulose Glycerine Water Perfume Preservative

20.0 gm 20.0 gm 3.0 gm 15.0gm 42.0 gm q.s. q.s.

For m ula 2 Strontium sulphide

Titanium dioxide Zinc oxide Calcium carbonate Glycerine Gum tragacanth Lime water Perfume Preservative

30.0 gm 3.0 gm 7.0 gm 5.0 gm 8.0 gm 5.0 gm 42.0 gm q.s. q.s

Dissolve the preservative in the glycerine. Then to a portion of the glycerine mix the gum tragacanth and add sufficient water to make a mucilage. Triturate titanium dioxide with zinc oxide and mix with remaining portion of the glycerine. Add the mucilage slowly to this with trituration. Add the strontium sulphide, calcium carbonate and perfume with trituration. Dilute it with remainder of the lime water.

r h ll

165

l l ^ I t t R L M O V ER S

trlr. rrrrlil homogeneous and then mill to smooth the product.

3 Formula Thioglycollic acid(90%) Hydratedlime Calcium carbonate (precipitated) Stearyl alcohol Sulphonatedstearyl alcohol Water Perfume Preservative

4.0 gm 10.0gm 20.0 gm 6.0 gm

0.6 gm 59.4 gm q.s. q.s

l'rcparethe cream base by mixing and triturating stearyl alcohol, nrrllrlronated stearylalcohol and water and preservative.Add the sub'itirr(csgraduallyto the basewith trituration.Mill to the smooth. Formula4 6.0 gm Calcium thioglycollate trihydrate 20.0 gm Calcium carbonate 2.0 gm Titanium dioxide 5.0 gm alcohol Cetyl 0.5 gm Sodium lauryl sulphate (powder or needless) 5.0 gm Glycerine gm 61.5 Water q.s. Perfume Calcium hydroxide to adjust pH to 12 q.s Mix and triturate titanium dioxide with glycerine. Melt cetyl alcohol rrrrrludd the glycerine mixture and add a little water to form a paste. I'rclxrre a mixture of sodium lauryl sulphate, calcium hydroxide and , ,rlcirrrrrthioglycollate separately. Add this to a mixture of calcium t.irrlrorratein water. Now add this mixture to the letyl alcohol paste with ilrillinuous stirring to form a cream. Adjust the pH value and total rvcipilrtwith calcium hydroxide and water and then finally mill. For m ula5 6.0 Calcium thioglycollate trihydrate 17'5 Calcium carbonate 5'o Mineral oil 5.0 Cetyl alcohol 0.5 (powder needless) or Sodium lauryl sulphate 3.5 Glycerine

gm gm gm gm gm gm

r6 8


the quantity. It can be done by any instrumentalchemicalanalysis. (2) Toxicity test : The test can be doneon animal. For this purpose rabbit can be used. Preparations can be appliedfor hair removaland the effecton the skin can be studiedby observation or by microscopicstudy. (3) Stability : Stability of the product is very important. This is done by any normal stability study or acceleratedstability study at highertemperature. (4) Rheology: Rheologyof the preparationcan be studiedby using any suitableviscometer.

CIIAPTER-14

Shaving Preparations Itr tllc preceding chapter preparationsand methods adopted for removal rrf rrrrwantedhair have been discussed. As shaving creams are different Irr rr.,r'urrd in nature, it is discussedseparatelyin this chapter. I lrcsc are widely used men's cosmetic products. Shaving preparatllr\ nlay be divided, basically, into two groups( I ) Preparationsused before shaving (2) Preparations used after shaving (l) PREPARATIONS

USED BEFORE SHAVING

llrc:scpreparationsare used for softening the beard for wet shaving rrrr,frrfs
170

A FTANDBooK oF cosMErrcs

keratin, movement of the rzlzors or blades becomes difficult. The shaving causes irritation. Also, the hard keratin spoils the blades or razor edge. As the shaving remains incomplete, several shavlngs are required. Multiple shavings may possibly causethe cutting of the skin.

I h I'I SIIAVING PREPARATIONS

I71

Slr'ving soapsmainly consist of potassium soap with a little amount

As discussed earlier in hair and hair removal chapters, water can soften the hair. But, normally, water gets evaporated before sufficient wetting of the hair as it takes some time to soften hair. These drawbacks can be overcome by use of shaving preparationslike shaving soaps,and creams and others, though water is main component for such softening. Shaving preparationssupport the action of water by multiple mechanisms of the constituents of such preparations(l)

Wetting agents promote the wetting of the hair.

(2) Alkali reaction of some agents causesfaster swelling of the keratin. (3) Humectantsand water-impermeablesubstancesprevent rapid evaporation of the water. Additionally these pieparations, particularly rich lather, helps to keep the hair erect, so as not to escape the razor or blacle and lubricating effect permits the smooth gliding of the razor or blade over the skin. Also, some hair softening agents, particularly rich agents, may be incorporated but as the shaving takes short time, such agents should act very fast, should not damage the skin and should not have unpleasant odour. These preparationscan be classified into three groups(l) Shaving soaps : Solid and creams (2) Brushless shaving creams (3) Aerosol preparations (1) Shaving soaps : Once, solid soaps or cakes or sticks were used widely. But over the years shaving creams have largety replaced the solid soaps. The creams have replaced the solid products because of ease of application. trn all these preparations, a concentrated aqueous solution of soap, supported by the mechanical action of the brush, is used to produce lather and acts on beard. Before application a normal washing is done to remove fat film over the beard. The products are expectedto produce a rich. soft and fine lather and the latlier should be lorrg-lasting,at least fbr 5-10 minutes for complete shaving. Soaps are n-larketedin three fbrms: cake, solid sticl
\l;rcrfirlting agents such as mineral oil, petrolatum, free fatty acids, lrrltr irlr.lr.ls, poiyoxyethyleneglycols and lanolin are normally incorfr.rrrtc(l in the preparationsto make the lather softer and creamier and alrrr kr have an emollient effect on the skin. In creams totar fatty a'l'rlrrrt'csshould be minimum 30%. Additionally some other additives dre irl\() irrcorporatedto have additional effects. They are chlorhexidine disinfectants, menthol etc. for cooling effect, silicones for 'r 'llrr:r' frrlrritirliori and ease of dragging razor or blade, perfumes for appealing f Ltvoilt and preservatives, if required.

SOAPBAR FormulaI Stearicacid Coconutoil Causticpotash Causticsoda Water Sodiumdioxystearate (50%) Sorbitalliquid Glycerol Perfume Preservative

49.00gm 13.00gm 22.00gm 12.00gm 1.25gm 0.75 gm 1.25gm 0.75 gm q.s. q.s.

SOAPCREAM Formula2 n. Stearicacid Coconutoil Palmkerneloil ll Potassium hydroxide Sodiumhydroxide

30.0gm 10.0gm 5.0 gm 7.0 gm 1.5 gm

173

t tr l4 lillAVING PREPARATIONS A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

172 Giycerine Water Perfume Preservative

,l

0.0 gm 36.5 8m q.s. q.s.

Heat with compositions of 'A' and 'B' separately at about 75"C" Preservativeshould be incorporated with glycerine or water. Mix 'B' to 'A' with stirring until cream is formed' Cool it to 45"C and add perfume. Mill it. F o rmu l a3 Stearic acid Olive oil Coconut oil Glycerine Lecithin Potassium hydroxide (80%) Sodium hydroxide (90%) Water Perfume Preservative

Formula5 Glycerol monostearate Stearic acid Glycerine Mineral oil Water Perfume Preservative

14.0gm 8.0 gm 5.0 gm 3.0 gm 70.0 gm q.s. q.s.

38.0gm 2.0 gm 6.0 gm 4.0 gm 2.0 gm 1.6 gm 0.3 gm 46.0 gm q.s. q.s.

(2) Brushtess shaving creams : In these preparations, lathering with brush is omifie
PO\1'I}8trT5 liorrmul;r6 Magnesium stearate Kaolirr Talc Perfume

7.0 gm 5.0 gm fi8.0 5irrt q.s.

174

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS Formula 7

Zinc stearate

7.0 gm 6.0 gm 87.0 gm q.s.

Kaolin Talc Perfume

I h,I4

SIIAVING PREPARATIONS

l'he useful antibacterialor antiseptic substancesare quaternary lrrrrrronium compounds, chlorhexidinediacetate. ('rcarnsarepreferredfor skinssensitiveto alcoholiciotions. Creams r nrr ulso give extra benefit to the skin like any other emollient or Itolcclive creams.

LOTIONS

Formula10

Formula8 Isopropyl myristate Alcohol Perfume

12.0gm 88.0gm q.s

Formula9 Isopropyl myristate Menthol Zinc phenosulphonate Alcohol Perfume

12.00gm 0.05gm 0.10gm 87.85gm q.s.

(2} PREPARATIONS

t75

USED AFTERSHAVING

These are another group of shaving preparationswidely used. Whatever may be the method of shaving there may be some irritation, minor damage to skin or cuts. The extent depends on method, instrument and preparations used for shaving. To overcome or treat these problems various preparations are used and they are termed as after-shave preparations. The after-shave preparationsare basically applied to cool and refresh the skin, to overcome irritation on the skin, to neutralize the soreness,to disinfect or heal the skin damage or cut. They are used in the form of lotions, creams or powders. The lotions are clear solutions containing 25 ta 50o/oalcohol. Additionally they may also contain antiseptic, ernollient, haemostyptic substances. Also they may contain extract of witchhazel, menthol, glycerine, boric acid, alum, potassium oxyquinoline sulphate and chloroform. If alcohol content is less, the perfume should be water soluble or soluble in less concentrations of alcohol. Alternatively solubilizing agents may be used. Most of the lotions are used as after-shavepreparations. po*.ders are also used to sorne extent but use of creams is comparatively less.

Toilet spirit Glycerine Cetrimide Water Perfume

50.0 gm 3.0 gm 0.1 gm 46.9 gm q.s.

Formulall Alum Glycerine Menthol Witchhazelextract Alcohol Water Perfume

2.0 gm 3.0 gm 0.1 gm 25.0 gm 25.0 gm 44.9 gm q.s.

Formula12 Glycerine Chlorhexidinediacetate Menthol Alcohol Water Perfume

2.0 gm 0.2 gm 0.1 gm 40.0 gm 57.7gm q.s.

Formula13 Carbopol-934 Menthol Alcohol Di-isopropanolamine Water Perfume

1.0 gm 0.1 gm 45.0 gm 0.8 gm 53.1gm q.s.

Formula14 Glyceryl monostearate Stearicacid

12.0gm 5.0 gm

t76

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICIi

Isopropylmyristate Glycerine Water Perfume

, 'r

2.0 gm 5'o gm 76.0 gm q.s"

POWDERS Formula 15 Boric acid Magnesium stearate Talc Perfume F o rmu l a1 6 Calcium carbonate Zinc stearate Kaolin Boric acid Chlorhexidine diacetate Talc Perfume

3.0 gm 4.0 gm 93.0 gm q.s. 5.0 gm 10.0gm 5.0 gm 2.0 gm 0.5 gm 77.5 gm q.s.

Evaluation As in any other products, shaving preparations and after-shave preparations should also be evaluated for quality and performance. Identification of various ingredients and their quantitative estimation should be done by suitable methods. Apart from these some other tests also are to be carried out for these products. (A) For Shaving Preparations(l) Determination of free caustic alkali : As free alkali can damage the skin, it is necessary to determine it. It can be done by any suitable method. (2) Determination of potash soap : As it is necessarythat 50% of the alkali used for saponification be potash, it is also required to estimate it. (3) Determination of total free acids : It is also necessary tb detennine the free fatty acids present in the soaps or creams. The titre of total fatty acids is required to be determined by suitable means. (4) Determination of total fatty materials : As a minimum amount of total fatty materials must be preSent in different shaving preparations

I lr l4

S l l A V l N (i P RE P A R A TION S

177

and l,,r ,iul)plctnentingoils to the skin, this is also to be checked rl cl r'ttti r ttcd. (5) loam formation : For foam producing preparations formation rrf loiilrr, the nature and stability of foam should be studied and coml,,rrr.rlwith the standard. ((r) Skin sensitization test : This is also important as these preparail,ril,,,(luc to presenceof some agents,can cause skin sensitization' physical stability of t7) Stability of the creams: This is to study study' stability tlr,' procluctsby various means or accelerated tlll l"or Aftershave Lotions1| )A nti septi cpr oper t y: Ast hesepr epar at ionscont ainant isept ics, ir r'. ncccssaryto evaluate antiseptic property by in-vitro test' (2)D etermi nat ionof a|coholcont ent : Thiscanbedet er m inedby ,ilr\ silitable method. As these preparationscontain alcohol it is necesrrrry lo estimatethe alcohol content. (.1) Dermatological safety : The products should not have effect on skin' ulrrr. So, suitable test should be carried out to study the effect on llris can be done on animal skin.

I h rr

CHAPTER-15

Nail

)

NAIL

179

l'hc body of the nail basically consists of tightly compresseddead r ellr packed with keratin. As the cells producing the nails can be aflct:tcd by conditions controlled by body metabolism, changes in the rlrnpc,colour, structure of the nails can help in diagnosis of diseases. In lrrlienls of chronic respiratory disorders, thyroid gland disorders, or All)S thc nails become yellow. In psoriasistfre nails may become pifted *rrrl tlislorted. They become concave in some blood disorders. Free edge Hyponychium(underneath) Nail bed (underneath) Lateral nail fold Lateral nail groove Lunula Proximal nail fold Eponychium

Eponychium

Epidermis

(I) Anatomy and History

Fig l5.l

Dermis Schematicstructureof nail

1l ) (' omposi ti on 'l hc nails are also made of hard keratin like hair. The protein sltrtelrrrccontains a high proportion of sulphur-rich amino acid cystine rvltlt srnall proportion of methionone, tyrosine, lysine, and histidine. The rrnil is composed of three layers, a soft lower layer called central nail, rvitlr hard keratin forming the intermediate layer, and the outer layer r nffcd dorsal nail. The nail also contains 12 to l4%o water and fattv rrrnlerials mainly of cholesterol. 'l'hc knowledge of composition suggeststhat the manicure preparaliotts should possibly avoid use of materials that remove natural fat or rryrlcr-solublesubstancesas these could damage the lattice-like structure ul lruil and may hasten the splitting or breaking. Sometimes fatty rrrnlerialsare incorporated in manicure preparationsto supplementthem. t78

180

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETI(.S

(3) Nail Disorders As mentioned earlier the nail disorders may be attributed to disorder of general condition of body, nervous strain or body metabolism or dietary deficiency of vitamins, amino acids etc. occasionally minor disorder also may occur. l There can be several disorders ofnails. (a) Leukonychia : comprete whiteness of the nails or spots on thc nail frequently occurs and is not necessarily termed as disease. one suggestion is that this is due to the injury to nail with simultaneous production of air bubble. Alternative suggestion is that this may be due to the presence of keratohyarin granules or enlarged acidopliiic ceils. The diffusion of light by these granules makes the cells appear white instead of pink. (b) Koilonychia : This is also called spoon nails, as the nails are depressedin centre and raised at the edges like a spoon. (c) Effects of systemic disease : It has been found that sometimes occurrence of a specific mark on nails, such as transversefurrowing of the nails or a single furrow running across each nail, indicates the occurrence of a specific disease. Different systemic diseases have specific mark. Sometimes a defective blood supply may cause a damage to the nail bed and makes the nail brittle. Due to severe chilblains nails mav also become detached from nail beds. (d) Brittleness : Brittleness of nails may be caused by congenital defects, systemic disorders or due to some other factors. the brittG naits may split easily. Systemic disorders which can make nails brittle are anaemia, avitaminogis, gout, hypo- and hyper-thyroidism. Sometimes continuous use of nail varnishes or vamish removers, without supplementing, in between, with nail creams, may also cause brittleness. It has, also, been observed that continuous supply of gelatin, orally, makes the nails hard and brings back normalcy in afpearance and recovery from brittleness. This probably suggbsts that lack of gelatin supply may cause brittleness. (e) Disorders of fungal or bacterial origin : The fungal and bacterial infection of nails causes diseases like paronychia, nail ringworm, and lesions produced by syphilis. paronychia is caused by yeasrlike

thl l

N A IL

l8l

Iilrrg.iin which the nail folds become red and swollen and mostly occurs 11 wornen whose hands are constantly in contact with w.ater, soaps and rlelirg,cnts. lrrl-octionof fungus under free edge of nail and attacking tli6 nail bed nrrrlruril subsequentlyleads to ringworm of the nails. The affected nails heeornerough, opaque and brittle. t{) Nuil Nutrition I'hough there is no definite proof of effects of deficiency of vitamins or olhcr essential substances,but some workers reported that supplemerrting with vitamins A, D and B improves the health and appearance ill nuils. Other substanceslike amino acids, proteins are also probably rer[rircd" Fats or oily substancesdlsq supplementthe health of nails. lr) Nail Cares and Preparations Vurious products are marketed and are available for enhancing attractivcrcss of nails and contributing to overall beauty. They can be r lnrsil'icd as follows(a) Nail lacquers and removers. (h) Auxiliary products (i) Cuticle removers (ii) Nail bleachesand nail whites (iii) Nail creams

I h 16 NAIL LAQUERSAND REMOVERS

CHAPTER.16

Nail Lacquers and Removers Regular care and treatment is very much important for nail grooming and to maintain them in good condition. A sei of manicureprelp-arations consistsof a numberof differentcosmeticproducts which are concerned with.cleansingand preparationsof the nail and its decoration.Nail is considered,particularly by females,as an important part foi g.oo_ing and decorationto enhancebeautyand overall appeal. Nail Lacquers The nail lacquersare the largestand most important group of manicure preparations.The products can vary from transparentuncolouredto oncehighly favouredpale pink to presentday vivid rh"d"r. presentday nail lacquers,which are also known as nail enamel or nail varnish,areas important'to women,as lipstick. rt has corne to a stagewherewomen use shadesaccordiugto the dressesor other make-upJur"dt to have a completematch. The applicationof nail lacquerscoversthe nair with a water-andairimpermeablemembranewhich remainsfor days and normally u" removedonly by suitabresorvent. So there is "un as demandfo. removers muc! as that of lacquers,as userschangethe colour or shadefrequentty to suit their choiceand necessity From consumers'nebessitypoint of view few factors are to be consideredsincerely whire designingnail racquers and are discussed oetow(l) Quality requirements for the lacquers (2) Its behaviourduring application (3) Characterof the lacquerfilm (4) Non-harmfulor non-toxic Quality of the productis very importantand shouldremainconstant during the storagelife. The proiuct shoularemainhomogeneous Juring storageand the pigments should not settle at the bottom. The consistencyalsoshouldbe constant.colour shouldnot bhangeduringshelf-rife. t82

183

lo producea smoothfilm the productshouldremainliquid enough lrrr n srnopthapplication. But it shouldnqt ta,kemuch time to dry to Evorrldamageto the appliedfilm while drying. The lacquershouldbe tlrll cnoughto apply easilybut not so much thin that it movesquickly lrr ruril surface. During application,preferably,it shoufdnot have any llrlrusivcodour. lrilrn shouldbe continuousand must adhereto the nail surface,and it rlrorrldnot peeloff. The film shouldbe glossyand must retainthe gloss urrrlelthe influenceof extemalinterferingfactorssuch as humidity,air, llglrt,warmoleold, soapand detergentsolutions. The colourshouldbe llrrrrund mustnot spoil the clothing. l'hc preparationshouldnot be harmful or toxic to the nail or to the nrllrrct'rrl skin surface. I'lrccharacters of the film are expectedto be as follows( l) I It shouldbe of eventhicknessfor which viscosityshouldbe proper and satisfactory. (2) Uniform colourproductionby usingfinely groundpigments and wetted by the medium.

(3) Should have good gloss. (4) Good adhesionto the nail.

(s) Satisfactoryflexibility

to avoid brittlenessand cracking.

(6) It should form a non-tacky surface. (7) Quick drying character. (8) Long maintenanceof the film character. A good nail lacquer should, in overall, fulfil the following characIr 't'.

( l) (2) (3) (a)

It rnust be innocuous to tfie nails and skin. It must be easy and convenient to apply. Product should be stable on storage. The product should produce a good and satisfactory film.

I ollrposition Modern nail lacquers contain the following important ingredients( l) Film fbrmers (2) Resins (3) Solvents (4) Diluents (.5) Plasticizers


(6) Colours (7) Pearlescentpigments (8) Others (1) Film forming substances : The common firm former for nail lacquers is nitrocellulose or ceilulose nitrate. 'fhough, over the years, several other substancesare being used, but still nitrocellplose remains as the most preferred film former. The other film formers used arc cellulose acetate, cellulose acetobutyrate, ethyl ceilulose, methacryrate and vinyl resins. But none of these materials has been found to be as good as cellulose nitrate. Nitrocellulose film is better in terms of hardness,toughness, resistance to abrasion and low solvent retention capacity. Films or' nitrocellulose are waterproof and stable to atmospheric conditions. Nitrocellulose is available in various grades and only low viscosity grades are used for lacquers. Use of special grade nitrocellurose prevents discoloration of nails. when used alone, it produces film of. poor gloss, brittle due to shrinking and poor adherenceto most surfaces. To overcome these problems normalry modifiing resin is incorporated Nitrocellulose is marketed dampened with ethyl or butyl alcthol to reduce high inflammability. (?) Resins : Resins are incorporated in nail lacquers to give the film more body, gloss, depth and adhesion. It also helps in dispersing insoluble pigments and lakes. Though initiaily natural resins such as gum damar, benzoic resin, gum copal, gum elemi, shellac etc. were widely used but they have now been replaced by svnthetic resins. Amongst synthetic resins, sulphonamide-formaldehyderesins are presentlv used most. The polymer made by mixing equimolecularproportions of formaldehyde pnd p-toluene sulphonamide brings e*"eil"nt glorr, depth. adhesion, and resistanceto water. Two such commercial products of the aryl sulphonamide-formaldehyde type are santolite MHp and santollite MS 80%. The first one gives an harder film and the latter imparts greater flexibility and gives high gloss and good flow properties. But, they also cause allergic reactions more frequentry than others. other synthetic resins which are also used occasionally include alkyl resins, polystyrene, polyvinyl acetate, polyacrylic estei, epoxy ester. coumafone indene polymers. and copolyr-nerof vinyl acetate anri vinyt chloride.

I i r l fi

N A l l . LA QU E R S A N D R E MOV E R S

Solvent(s) should evaporate leaving behind a continuous, lrlvtrrt hrrlrclrrt:irble,hard film. The selection of solvent to be used in lacquer is trrlr()rlrnt and the mixtur6 is to be so balanced that the rate of evaporallrr l)rcvontschangeswhich causeprecipitationof nitrocellulose. Though rllir k cvaporation is needed but too rapid evaporation may make distrihutirrnon the nail ,imiossible or troublesome. Knowledge of boiling lrrrirrlol' the various solvents is important. By mixing middle boiling lrrrlrrtsolvcnts such as alcohols, acetatesand aromatic solvents the rate nl cv:rlloration can be retarded" Judicious selection of mixture of lrerlirrrrr.high, and low boiling' solvents is an important criteria for mnlirrg a good lacquer. Liquids with boiling points up to l00oC are leurrcrlas low and with boiling points between 100-150oCas medium ,rl,l rvilh boiling points over l50oC as high boiling point liquids. TABLE 16. I Nail Enamol Solvents and their Boiling Point ,\, tlt'<'nt

Roiling Point

Solvenl

Boiling Point

35"C 46"C

Diethyl carbonate

126"C.

t r r r l r r rr lri s u l p h i d e

Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether

134'C

l r l r 'l l r y li t c e t o n e

500c.

Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether

135"C

55'C

Ethyl lactate

I 35"Cl

)b " L

Xylene

I 38'C

68"C 70"c 77"C 78"C 80"c 80'c 92"C g6'c

Amyl propionate

140'c

Isoamyl acetate Butyl propionate

140'c 145"C

Cyclohexanone

154"C

E,thyleneglycol lsopropyl ether

159'C

i-Iexalin

160'c

Methyl cyclohexanone

160'c

Furt"ural

162'C

99'C I l0'c 1l0'c I l0"c I tr3"C 120'C I 25'C

Diaeetonealcohol

164'C

\r r 'l r l ttt:

lrl,-tlrr,lircetate h l r 'l l r r 'lc t h y l k e t o n e I rr lron I'ctrachloride Itlryl :rlcohol l '. u p r o l r yal l c o h o l llr tllCllO

l ',1;rropy I acetate l l rrl yl l ormate Itl rr'l propronate ri l rtrl V l i tcetate Iol rrctte ,\rrryl l i rrmate

(3) solvents : solvents are. voletile *rga.nic riquids thar 'ormairy" combirre all the ingredients of lacquer an'.jmakc r horriogeneor,,s viseous preparation. Ndrnlally rnixture clf sol'ents is preteried r:ver srr:rgkr

185

Itrl vl i rl t:ohol :\rrrr'l rtl cofrol \rrrr'l i tccti ttc

' Methyl hexalin

165"C

Hexalin acetate

183"C

Ethyl oxalate

I 85"C

Butyl lactate

I 85"C]

Glycol diacetate

l l l 60('

Cyclohexanonephthalate

186

I Ir Ir'

N A II, I,A QIJE R SA N D R E MOV E R S

t87

A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('S

The solventsystemshouldbe selectedsuchthat it should (a) Dissolveor disperseall the ingredients. (b) Producea proper viscosity. (c) Maintainthe quality during storagelife. (d) Evaporatein such a way that leavosa good film and also makesapplicationeasy. (4) Diluents : They ars not exactly'sorventsbilt are organic sorvenrs miscible with nitrocellulosesolvents. Diluents are incilrpc,rated fi, multiple purposes. (a) To build and stabilizethe viscosityof the lacquer. (b) To help in solubilizationof incorporatedresins. (c) To lessenthe effect of freshryappriedenamelon a previously appliedlacquerfilm. (d) To lower the overall cost of the product. The variousgroupsof sorventsusedare alcohors,aromatichydrocar-bons, and aliphatichydrocarbons. The alcohols which are preferably used are ethyl alcohol, butyl alcoholand selectivelyusedalong with their estersas main solvents rike butyl alcohol with butyr acetate. This group of sorventsare arsocalled as 'latent solvents'and they increasethe effectiveness of principaror activesolventin combinationwith them. To keepall the ingredientsin solution,thereis a limit of the amount of diluent solvent which can be accommodated by the active solvent. This limit is expressedby toleranceratio or dirution ratio. This is definedas the maximumdiruent/sorvent ratio which can be toleratedby the nitrocellulosesolution without precipitatingthe nitrocellulose. As the viscosity of the product is increasedby the increase in diluent volume,closerthe diluent/solventratio to the tolerancevalue higherthe viscosity. while selectingthe proper combinationof diluent with sorvent, the diluent shouldevaporateat fasterrate than the solventor solventmixture. This will preventthe precipitationof nitrocelrurose as diluentl solventratio will decrease.This wilr avoid a harsh,rough and croudy film and producea srnooth,crearand continuousfilm. a higl, boiring point diluent will make a brighterfirm. For matt films highr-yvoratire solventsand diluentsare used.

Apirrt lionr alcohols other diluents used are benzene,xylene, toluene. tirlr'r'rrl:; with strong and unpleasant odour are avoided. Also they al rrrrrlrrol rl ' bc i rri ta t ingi \ (1) I'l:rsticizers : A suitable plasticizer is most important component rr,rrl l;rr.:t;uers. Nitrocelluloseor other film formers alone, normally, ',1 rrrrhl ir rltrll and brittle film which can easily flake off the nail. IncorpotrtfIrrr ol-:r plasticizerimparts the requiredflexibility, gloss, adhesionto rlre rrirrl irrrd reduces its tendency to shrink. It also has effect on rlnr u,.rly irnd the volatility or rate of drying. Palsticizersshould be nonlrlirlrle lrnd miscible with film former, solvent and the other constituents. It rlrould be colourless,ddourlessand non-toxic. Functionwisethey r ,lr lr(' Placed into two categories: (a) Solvent plasticizers,which also act as solvent for film formers. (b) Non-solventplasticizers,which only act as softener. I lrr' lrrltcr alone may not give a good film, so a combination is taken, lr.r.rlrly A good plasticizershould have the following characters11r (l) Miscible with other ingredients (-2) Non-irritating and non-toxic (l)

Low volatility

(,1) Improve the flexibility, gloss and adhesion ( 5) Should not destabilize the preparation (6) Should not discolourthe product (7) Colourless,odourlessand stable 1[i) Improve the viscosity of the preparation llrr' lrlasticizersare, normally, used in 5o/oof the total mixture or 25 t,r 10",,ol'the film formers.The plasticizersused successfullyare dibutyl n-butyl stearate,resorcinoldiacetate,castoroil, triethyl citrate, lrlrtlr,rl,rrr'. I imrlrlroror urea derivatives,chlorinateddiphenylenesetc. lncorporation ,r,,'lllated monogiyceridesalong with other plasticizersirnprovesthe 'rl ( l l , rl rrl i tyand l astingpower . ((') Colours : Soluble dyes alone cannot, normally, impart sufficient rleptlrol-colour or intensity. Also it may colour ad.jacentarea. Thus pigmentsor lakes are incorporated. Staining of the nail is not rrr'.r'lrrlrlc ,1,'^.rr.rlrlc. The lakes shoukJbe resistantto light or to astion of organic ..lrrrri.; arrd be non-toxie, non-irritating. The lalces si-rorrldnot be ,;r.rr.rtcrl l ry the s0lvenr s,

r 88

A FIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS

t h lr' NAll.I.AQUERS ANDREMOVERS

189

l ,rtrr.rnl I' reparati o n I lrc basg is prepared separately or diluted from the mother lacquer rrvnilirhlcin the market. Nitrocelluloseor film former is dissolvedin the ,rrrlvgl'1.ltesin, plasticizer can be dissolved directly or may be dissolved Iri rr srnrrllarnount of solvent and then may be mixed with nitrocellulose qllrrlion. Dispersed pigments are also available readily in the market. i lrc pigrnentsare first dispersedby milling in a suitable vehicle and then irrrorporatedin the base. Alternatively, the milled dispersionis convcrlctl into coloured chips. The boloured chips are dissolved in the Irrtt;rrt:rbase and blended to prepare suitable shades" Also concentrated r llorrrs are available, which can be suitably diluted and blended with l t,t',t'

For m ulaI Synthetic nacreous pigments are either obtained from mica flakes or platcletscoatedwith bismuth oxychloride or titanium dioxide. Synthetic nacreouspigments are cheaperthan natural products. (8) Perfume (others) : This is added basically to mark the odour ol the other ingredients. The perfume need not be strong. Normally synthetic perfumes are preferred. But it should not destabilizethe colour or product. Application Application techniqueof nair lacquersis very important to get good effect' The nail lacquers can be appiied differently. pres"ent day products are mainly applied directly, several times, to iet a good, even and firm coat. But to get more attractive appearance,sometimes,the whole application is done stepwise. First a basecoat is appriedprior to the application of coloured nail enamel" This is b crear concentrated racqueibase an.r forms an even surrfaceand helps the distribution of subsequentafprica, tion properly. T'he' the corouredlacquer is applied. Finaily a top coar or hardelreris used o'er the coloured lacquer. This is basicairy ct"o, lacquer base with lerssplasticizer but rncireresin. " Sometintesfor 14ulckdr3,isl1' ;rn aerosoi spra1,is applied, rvhich evapo. rates the solvelir{iar:lr,l-

Nitrocellulose Resin Plasticizer Solvent Colour Perfume

16.0gm 9"0 gm 4.8 gm 60.5 gm 0.5 gm q.s.

l)i:;solveall the ingredientsin the solvent gradually. Fo r m u l a 2

Nitrocellulose Dibutyl phthalate Polyvinyl acetate Methylene chloride Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether Diethyl glycol monomethyl ether Ethyl alcohol Perfume oil Colour

7.0 gm 5.0 gm 8.0 gm 29.4 gm 28.0 gm 2.0 gm 14.0 gm 6.0 gm 0.5 em

For m ula3 Nitrocellulose Dioctyl adipate Triethyl phosphate Camphor ,Acetone Ethylene glycol monomethyl ether Colour

13.0 gm 13.5 gm 5.5 gm 3.0 grn 3.0 gm 35.0 gur 0.4 sm

190


I h 16 NAIL LAQUERS AND REMOVERS

Formula 4

Nitrocellulose Plasticizer Polypropyl methacrylate Butyl acetate Ethyl alcohol Toluene Colour

4.0 gm 4.0 grn 18.6gm 23.9 gm 25.6 gm 23.4 gm 0.5 gm

Lacquer Removers These products are also called nail cleansers. They are totally different from other cleansers,such as hair, skin and teeth cleansers,as nail cleansers are required to remove only nail lacquers whereas others are used to remove greasy materials, dirt, dust, etc. As nail cleansersare required to be applied on a smooth and highly resistantsurface, composition can be different. These preparations rarely come in contact with the surrounding skin, which is not so in the case of other cleansers. So, the chanceof damage is much Iessthan shampoosor other cleansers. Basically all lacquer removers should contain solvent or mixture of solvents which can dissolvethe nail lacquer. An ideal lacquerremover should have the followins characteristics-

lo solvent are butyl, propyl, amyl alcohols, monoalkyl ethers of dihydric rrlcoholslike mgthyl and ethyl ethers of ethylene glycol and monoethyl rtlicrls of diethylene glycol. They are odourless and less volatile. Arrolher good solvent which is suggestedby several workers is garnmavtrlcrolactone" r lratting agents used to prevent too much drying effect are vegetable ,rils like castoroil, lanolin and its derivatives,faffy alcohols etc. 'l o overcomethe unpleaszint odour of solvents3-10% of inexpensive lLrral volatile fragrance can be incorporated. Examples are orange oil, lcrl)cnes,terpineol etc. which also act as solvents. Formula5 Butyl acetate Ethylene glycol monoethyl ether Propylene glycol ricinoleate Perfume

Fo r m u l a 6

Castor oil Diehtyleneglycol monoethyl ether Acetone Perfume

brittle.

L---

3.0 gm 15.0 gm 82.0 gm q.s

Prepareby simple solution. Formula 7

(5) It should not have unpleasantand obtrusive odour. Norrnally the products contain suitable solvent like acetone, ethyl acetate,amyl acetate,ethyl butyrate or mixture of them or toluene along with some fatting agents to compensatethe degreasingeffect and not to leave the nail brittle. The products are made more attractive by incorporating perfume. 'Ihough acetone has an unpleasant odour and strong degreasing efltct. still it is widely used due to its good soh'ent cfraracters. Other solvents,mentioned above, also have sorne unpleasantodour. Estersof rJibasic acids such as dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl adipate are frequentl), used as they are odourless or have very faint odour. Liquid esters of' higher acids like butyl stearats,i56rpropylmyristate are also 6rref"erred as tirey are less volatile and odourless. fJther substancesusetlas solvent oi

15.0 gm 80.0 gm 5.0 gm q.s.

Prepareby simple solution.

(1) It should not be too volatile to evaporateduring application. (2) It should not be non-irritatingto surroundingskin. (3) It shr:uld not leave nails fatty or sticky. (4) It should not have strong degreasing effect to leave nails

I9I

Butyl stearate Ethyl acetate Butyl acetate Acetone Toluene Perfume

3.0 gm 20.0 gm 20.0 gm 25.0 gm 32.0 gm q.s.

Prepareby simple solution. l ,,vul uati on l,ikc any other products, the tests for identity ofthe ingredients and tlrcir irrdividualquantity,checkingof colour shadeare part of the quality lr";t,. Apart from these,several other tests are required to be done on the p,'r'|orrrrance and nature of the products and film produced. Sometimes tlrt' prodrrctis evaluatedagainsta standardor establishedproduct.

r92

A HANDBOOK OFCOSMETICS

(l) Non-volatile content : This can be done by taking a definite amount of lacquers and applying on a plate of flat surface. Weight of the residual film after evaporation of solvent will indicate the nonvolatile content.

CHAPTER17

(2) Drying rate : This can be done by taking the product on a flat surface and touching the product with tip of finger at short intervals of time to feel the tackiness. Tirne taken for disappearanceof tackiness is noted. (3) Smoothness : This is the character of the film. The hlm is applied on a surface and the surface characteristics of the fihn are studied microscopically. (4) Hardness : This is the measure of the hardnessof film. After application of the film on a flat surface the hardness in measured by applying pressuremechanically. (5) Adhesion : This is the measurementof adhesion characterof the film with adhering surface. This is done by applying the film and then measuring the adhesion character by trying to remove the film mechanically and the fbrce required for that. (6) Abrasion resistance : This quality is studied by applying the film on a surface and then a mechanicar abrasive effect is uffti"o. rn" surface characteristicsof the film are studied before and after abnasive effect. (7) water resistance : This is the measurementof the resistance towards water permeability of the film. This is done applying a continunus film on a surface and immersing it in water. The weights before and after immersion are noted and increase in weight, is calculated. Higher the increase in weight lower the water resistance. (8) viscosity : This is arso an important character and can be measured by any viscometer. It can simply be measuredby the flow of lacquers from the applicator brush and comparing it with a standard or good commercial product. (9) stability : Stability study of the product as well as colour is also very important and essential. This can be done by acceleratedstability test.

" Auxiliary Products for Nails Ar rrrcntionedin the chapter on nails, various products are available in tlrc nrarket for the care and beautification of nails. Nail lacquers and rtsnr()vcrsare having the largest share of them. But there are other prrrrlucts which are used for various other purposesand care of the nails. All llrcse products have been put under auxiliary products and are here. They are-'lr.iclrssedseparately (l) Nail creams (2) Cuticle softenersand cuticle removers (3) Nail bleaches (a) Nail whiteners and nail strengtheners All these products are used for specific purposesand to maintain the lrr'rrltlrand appearanceof the nails. l l ) N ui l C reams ('ontinuous and frequent application of nail lacquers and ordinary rr'ruovcrs may make the nail brittle. This can occur due to strong ,lrgrcirsing effect of the solvents of the lacquers and removers. Due to .rrcssive removal of fatty substancesfrom nail surface the appearance ,' l l l rc nai l become sdull. Srr, to overcome this brittleness and to maintain the normal health of tlrc rriril and its appearancegood and shiny, some preparationsare used. t hrc suggestionwas to apply olive oil after washing the nails by warm rvnlcr. 'l'his normally takes a few weeks'time to achieve the intended t'l l e cl .

Altcrnatively, an emollient cream can be used to supplement the oil iltrl l() rotain the moisture content. These preparations mainly contain lrur()linlurd its derivativesor other oily substancesalong with a humectant. I lrc prcparationscan be lanolin based,absorption base or beeswax-borax l';rrctl t:nrulsion creams. Cholesterol also has been reported to assist rrrrl uri rl cl i rsti ci tyof t he nails. ' Ihcsc creams are recommendedto apply once a day or three times a rr,'r'k llicr washing the nails with warm soapy solution and then drying 193

194

A nANDBooK oF cosMETrcs

before going to bed. Suitable perfumes and preservativesare also being incorporated.

FormulaI Beeswax Ozokerite Montan wax Mineral oil Cetyl alcohol Borax Aluminium stearate Water Perfume Preservative

15.0gm 2.5 gm 2.5 gm 40.0 gm 2.0 gm 1.5 gm 10.0gm 26.5 gm q.s. q.s.

Melt all waxes and oils in a container at 75oC. Dissolve the preservative in water and warm to same temperature. Mix the water solution to first mixture with continuous stirring. Add perfume at final stage after cooling the mixture to about 45oC. (2) Cuticle Softeners and Cuticle Removers The cuticle is the thin fold of skin that extends over the lunula at the base of the nail. Cuticle is formed by the extension of a portion of the stratum coreum of the nail root by cornification of the skin at the place where skin adjoins the nail. It becomes unpleasant looking due to its irregular growth. Therefore preparationsare used to improve its appearance. However, this can be removed by cutting but that process is not satisfactory. Some preparations are available to take care of cuticle. They can soften or remove the cuticles. The most important product is cuticle removers. Cuticle softenerscan soften the cuticle along with preventing nail to become brittle and ribbed. The preparationscan be cream type or lotion type. They contain lanolin or its derivatives or quaternary ammonium compounds which soften the cuticle to help in mechanical removal. Quaternary ammonium compounds such as cetyl pyridinium chloride, stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride, soften the cuticle by their affinity for protein and are used in 3-5%. These substancesalso act as a bactericidal. Urea can promote the swelling of keratin and softening of cuticle whereas lanolin or isopropyl myristate gives emollient action. 'Io make it viscous and to market it in tubes, methyl cellulose or hydroxypropyl ethyl cellulose is incorporated in suitable proportion.

195

I h | / AI,XILIARY PRODUCTS FORNAILS

I lrclc is another product called cuticle oils which is used, also, for 'irrltcrrirrllthe cuticle. They are normally made by using oil soluble lt,lrrrl lirnolin or its derivatives diluted with any vegetable oil or fatty rr{l rl csl crs. L'rrticlccreamsor oils, on regular use,loosencuticle and keep it in a lrcirlllry condition. These preparationsare applied using an orange stick tippcd with cotton wool, on the cuticle and pressing them backward, gerrtly, and away from the nail. This improves the appearanceof the r rrti t' l c. ('uticle removers are used for removal of cuticles by hydrolysis and rrvrllirrg of the softened cuticles. This is done by using potassium I ryrlroxide and sodium hydroxide, monoethanolamine,triethanolamine or rrrrfrrlu carbonateeither in liquid or cream form. They are used as2-5%o lrr eillrer aqueousor hydroalcoholic vehicles. To counteractthe irritation r rrrrsctlby alkali normally humectants such as glycerine or propylene p.lycolare incorporated. They also prevent the evaporation of water and in( rcirsethe viscosity of the preparations. Water-solublegums and hydrocolloids are also used to increase the vrrt' osi ty. A l kal ine polybasic salt s like t r isodium phosphat e or tetrusodiumpyrophosphatein 8-10% can also be used in combination tvilh 2-3o/osodium lauryl sulphate or triethanolamine lauryl sulphate. I hcy have milder action but are less effective. Perfume and preservatrvcs ilre to be incorporatedaccording to the need and choice. Care must lx' tlkcn while applying such preparationsto prevent damage to the skin, rrnil bcd or dermatitis. CUTICLE SOFTENERCREAMS For m ula2 4.0 gm Lanolin (anhydrous) 1.0 gm Beeswax (white) 95.0 gm Petroleumjelly

q.s.

Perfume LOTIONS

Formula3 Stearyl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride 1.5 5.0 Alcohol 1.5 Diethyl phthalate 92.0 Water q.s. Perfume q.s. Preservative

gm gm gm gm

t96 A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

il L rq u td l a n o l i n Castor oil Perfume.

CUTICLE OILS Formula4

75.0gm 25.0gm q.s.

Formula5 Llqurct lanolin Isopropyl myristate Perfume

llrr= lrrotlucts are marketed either in solution or in cream forms. I iearrrl1;rl,r'sllrc application easier. The product can be marketed in ii*r lrr, l, ,,y:;lcrns. One containing bleaching agent and the other contailirtp ir(r(l or alkali to attain intendedpH of reaction. .

75.0 gm 25.0 gm q.s.

For m ula9 I lydrochloric acid (concentrated) (i l yceri n e Water

CUTICLE REMOVERS

'

2.0 gm 20.0 gm 78.0 gm q.s. q.s. t

potassium hrd.o*i#.rr,u Glycerine propylene Alcohol Water perfume

3.5 gm 15.0gm 5.0 gm 25.0 gm 51.5grn q.s. t

Trisodiumohoroh#.ru," Glycerine Sodiumlauryl ethersulphate Ethoxylatelanolin aeriuut,.uJ, Rosewater (3) Nail Bleaches

10.0gm 20.0 gm 3.0 gm 0.5 gm 66.5 gm

These preparations are used to remove diffe :olorationson the nailc i^ ...L:r_ ., lr"nt types of stains and "."r lhe stainscan be of vegetables,etc. ,rhe ink, stainscun b" removed lobac;o, rn emoved by ei or cr reduction reduction process either oxidation pao".r. d"".;;;;;_':"":'j r1en.^.r;-^ ., Y" ^_ vrr rrr! nature -'-'D on.the rrdrure

"H:"g[J'J:' jl"::ii,_l&ffi fi ;_il ff;:::::"i:Jffi "::

of stalr. or stair. Oxidizing normallvrrqert normally Ox o,o hyi used are agents penoxide, sodium "..rlflndin* perborate, zinc perborate, other Other asents Zinc peroxide. agents*u,û :_Il9en neroyirto which are ,;; ;;:':^:l:.ll''lt .are"citric of ttut stain n or bleaching acid, acid,tartaric tarraricacid, acia. hydroc r,ra"^lill",T:::yrvat hJ;";""^":;;^' acid. :i,', :t.

use, for f^, achieving anr-i^,.:__ - ,rochloric used rlduction.

L

0.4 gm 10. 0 gm 89.6 em

Fo r m u l a l 0

u

potassiumhrd.o*i#.rut" Glycerine Water perfume preservative

197

A II\II,IA R Y I'R ODU C TS FOR N A ILS

TI, II

Sulphiteswiith dilute acid are also

llydrogenperoxide(3% 10 vol.) Arnmonia ltosewater I'reservative

73.5 gm 0.5 gm 26.0 gm q"s.

For m ula1l Beeswax Paraffin wax Mineral oil Pumicepowder Borax Water Perfume

10.0gm 5.0 gm 46.0 gm 8.0 gm 0.5 gm 30.0 gm q.s.

l{l NIrll Whiteners and Strengtheners I lrr";c products are not much in use nowadays. They are presently rr-,-rlr;lr(,|y,as use of nail lacquershas increased. l'lirrl wlritenersare used on the outer edge of the nail to produce a rilrttt'r'tlp',ing. They are used as a thick paste containing either zinc jelly or or lilanium dioxide in a baseof either glycerine-tlagacanth 'qrrh' occasionally substances mixture. Other beeswax and lrilr',lr'unr ielly rnsrl.;r', whiteners,are kaolin, talc, colloidal silica, etc. pencils are also available which can be applied easily l.lorv:rclirys \\itlrrul rrrcssingproblem of creams. The pencils are normally made of \\!r\\ ilLtlcrialscontainingtitanium dioxide. l''l;rilstrc:rrgtheners are basically used for hardeningof nails, particulrrrlr to trcat dry brittle nails. They normally containastringentsaltsand ,rrr'irrlu('()u:,i solutionsof chlorides,sulphates,acetate,saltsof aluminium, rir,urunr and strontium. Also potassium,sodium or ammonium alums lrr- l\('(f. 'l'he astringentsalts are used ln l-5o/oalong with glycerine or lcrrcglycol for even applicationand improved penetration. Use of ;,1,r1r1

198

A HANDBOOKOF COSMTiI'I(I

dimethyl or diethylolthiourea solution also has been reported for .irrl strengthening purpose. After washing and drying off the nails the lotion is applied witlr rr brush. The hands are kept downward for few minutes to allow drvirr' Further application may be made after drying, if required.

CHAPTER.IS

Tooth and Oral Cavity

NAIL WHITENERS Formula 12 Titanium dioxide Petroleum jelly Beeswax

25.0 gm 70.0 gm 5.0 gm

Melt last two together and add titanium dioxide with trituration and mill it. Formula 13 Titanium dioxide Petroleumjelly

38.0gm 62.0 gm

Melt jelly and mix titanium dioxide properly and mill it. NAIL STRENGTHENERS

\tr u('lure of Teeth and Physiology of Oral Cavity

For m ula 14

Potash alum Glycerine Formaldehyde Menthol Water Perfume Preservative Formula 15 Aluminium chloride Glycerine Solution of formaldehyde (0%) Soft soap Alcohol Water

Alrrrrlcniulceof health of the teeth and gums well is very important for Irrrrrrrpigood general health. More often than not, health of teeth and prrrrr,,ol' a person is an indication of his general health. So, it is nFrr",:iirryto take care of health of teeth and gums. Various preparations !ilF il:,c(l lbr cleansing and maintenanceof good health of teeth, gum and r,rirl r'rrvity. The products,termed as dentifrices,are used to keep the r..r.tlrt'lcan, shiny and to inhibit the formation of unpleasant odour in rrrlrrtlrirrrd freshen the breath. But before studying such preparations,it i! rrlx)rtant to study the anatomy of the teeth and physiology of the oral , rt\tly und also diseasesof teeth, gum and oral cavity.

3.000gm 10.000gm 0.010gm 0.001gm 86.989gm q.s. q.s.

Il1:rcroscopically,the tooth can be distinguished into three distinct lrirt.i {}l liee-standingcrown, the slenderneck which is coveredby gums rr'rnc(las gingiva, and the root which is embeddedin the jaw. The root ,,1 r'rrr'lrtooth sits within a bony socket called an alveolus. Pulpcavity E namel Crown

Dentin Gingiva

5.0 gm 10.0gm 0.1 gm 1.0 gm 5.0 gm 78.9 gm

Gingivalsulcus Cementum

Periodontalligament Root canal

Evaluation

Alveolarbone

Tests for identification of individual ingredients and their weight are essentially to be done. Also stability of the products, rheology, film characters etc. are some tests which are required to be done depending on the type of products. Some of these tests are similar to nail lacquers.

Apicalforamen Branches0f alveo!ar vesselsand nene

Fig. 18-1 Schematiesectiona!view oftootkr t9 9

200

A HANDBOOK OF COSME'I'I('S

A sectional view through an adult tooth is presentedin Fig. rg"r The bulk of each tooth consists of a mineralized matrix material callctl dentin. This material is similar to that of bone but the only difference is that it does not contain living cells. Instead, the cytoplasmic processcs extend from cells in the central pulp cavity into the dentin. From tlrc root canal, a narro!!'tunnel located at the root, blood vesselsand nervcs are supplied to the pulp cavity. The blood vesselsand nervesenter int. the root canal through the apical foramen to supply the pulp cavity. The periodontal ligament, which is made of collagen fibres, extends

is very similar to bone. It is less resistant to erosion than dentin. Thc exposed portion of the tooth is called crown. The boundary betweenthc: root and the crown of the tooth is marked by the neck. The neck of each tooth is surroundedby a shallow gingiva sulcus. The mucosa of thc gingiva sulcus is loosely bound to the tooth. This epithelial attachmenr of the tooth is important for preventing bacterial access to the lamin. propina of the gingiva and the relatively soft cementurn of the roor. Brushing and massagingof gurns stimulate the epithelial cells and makc the attachment stronger. Breaking down of the epithelial attachmerrr causesbacterialinfection of the gingiva and is called gingivitis. The de'tin of the crown is covered by a rayer of a material called enamel consisting of calcium phosphate in a crystalline form. Thc enamel is the hardest biologically ma'ufactured substance. For thc formation of strong and resistant enamel coating, sufficient quantity or calclum, phosphate and vitamin D are essentiaily to be taken durins childhood. From cosmetic point of view only the visible and exposed parts or the teeth are important. These are crown, neck and gum or gingivu. Enamel of the crorvn is most important for that. The saliva is an integral part of the environrnent of oral cavity a'rl teeth. Knowledge of saliva is important for rnaintenanceof good healtl, of oral cavity. salivary glands produce i.0 to 1.5 litres of saliva ear.:rr da)'- water is the main constituent and is about 99.4v* Renraini'g 0.6%r mai'ly consists of several electrolytes,buffers, glycoproteiris rnainly Na+, cl- and HCo3-. I-ulxicating action of the sallva is due lqr the presence of glycoprotein called mueins. Saiiva is a mixture ol

( 'lr-l8 TOOT'H ANDORALCAVITY

201

glandular secretions and is secreted 70Yo from submandibular salivary glands, 25%o from parotids, and 5Yo from sublingual salivary glands. ('ontinuous sdcretion of saliva flushes the oral surfaceshelping to keep tlrcrn clean and wet. Buffers present in the saliva maintain the pH :,ligfrtly acidic, close to 7.0, and thus prevent the build up of acids ;rloduced through bacterial growth. Saliva also additionally contains irrrrrrunoglobulins(Ig A) and lysozymes that help in control of oral hircterialpopulation. Any reductionor elimination of salivary secretions clrrsed by either radiation exposure,emotional distress,or other factors, tlig,gersa bacterial population explosion in the oral cavity. This leads to rccurring infections and progressive erosion of teeth and gums. The sirliva seles several functions during eating. (1) Lubrication of the mouth" (2) Moistening and lubricating materials in the mouth. (3) Dissolution of chemicals u'hich stimulate the taste buds and provide sensory information about the material. (4) Initiating the digestion process of complex carbohydrates, before swallowing, by the amylase enzyme present in the saliva. 'l'he surfaceof the normal sound tooth is smooth. The gingival tissue rllorrgly enclosesthe neck of the tooth. Continuouslycirculatingsaliva tcnroves the remaining food materials adhered to or between the teeth. Arry hard ingredients present in the food rnaterialsalso polish the dental ',i l r l :rceS .

l l rnl al P robl ems l)cntal problems can be of various types and require care. Some lrroblcrnscan be taken care of by cosmeticsbut some need medical care arrrlrrrcdi ci ne. I ooth decay is caused by the aetion of bacteria that inhabit the rnnutlr A sticky rnatrix material is produced by bacteria adhering to the ',rr l;rr:cso{ teeth. This materialtraps food particlesand createsdeposits rr'lrrtlr is called plaque. This organic material, over the tirne, ber;omes , irlt i[ir:d fbrrning a hard layer of tartar or dental calculus. Caleification ,'( i urs by enz:yrrratic degradationof calcium rich substancesin saliva irn(l rc:iulldntfcrlnrationantl depositionof insoluble calciurn eompounds orr llrt' lcclh. Rernovalof these trard layers is very difficult. N,rrmally Ilt:rr lirnrurtion occurs at or near gingival sulcus. Brushing cannot r{ ' rr,} v('tl ri s dcpo sit ion,even in t he ear ly st age.

202

A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETIC]S

The deposited plaque protects the oral bacteria from the effect or salivary secretion, thus salivary secretion cannot control their srowth. Bacterial growth over the food remnants produces acids that slowly erode the surface and structure ofthe teeth. This results in dental caries or dental cavities. The most commonly occurring bacteria S. mutans. when reaches and infects the pulp, causes pulpitis. In such condition, normal treatment is the complete removal of the pulp tissue, particularly the sensory innervation and all areas of decay. The pulp cavity is therr packed with altemative and appropriate materials. This processis callecl root canal. Normal brushing of the teeth can only cover the exposed surfacesol' the teeth. so, this can only prevent the settling of the bacteria and thc entrapment of food. But the bacterial and the food remnants in interproximal space or between the teeth or within the gingival sulcus cannor be removed by the brush. Daily use of dentar floss to keep clean these spacesas well as regular stimulation of gingival epithelium by massaging are recommended for maintenance of good oral health. Acids generated by bacteria and plaque remaining within the gingival sulcus for extended period of time will lead to erosion of the connections between the neck of the tooth and the gingiva. As a result the gum appears to recede from the tooth and leads to periodontal disease. In addition to these, the bacteria attack the cementum, finally leading to destruction of the periodontal ligament and erosion of alveolar bone. These further lead to loosening of the tooth and thus the tooth falls our or is required to be removed. periodontal diseaseis the most common cause for the loss ofteeth. Dental Preparations To take care of various dental problems and maintain dental health and oral cavity various preparations are available and marketed. The foliowing chapters will deal with such preparations. These preparations are classified as follows(1) Dental Care Preparations (a) Tooth pastes (b) Tooth powders (c) Solid and liquid dental preparations (2) Mouthwashes

CHAPTER 19

Dental Care Preparations \l ,rrrrtr' rr:rrrce of teet h clean and ir r good healt h is essent ialand also rl l r' )l l :utt l br everyone. This can be achievedby using var iousdent al ' ,11,'|rt'pilr'ationsor dentifrices. Dentifricesare the preparationsusedfor thc surfacesof teeth and keep them shiny and to preservethe ' 1,,1;11111' lr''rltlr ol'the teeth and gurns. These ptepafationsmay also expectedto lr,-l1rirrlribitthe formation of unpleasantodours and freshenthe breath. llr'Er.rrlrrl use of dentifriceshelps to preventoccun.enceof tooth decay. A rk'rrtul health increasesthe possibility of a good generalhealth. F",rrl lrrrlrrrrtance of cleaning the teeth was probably realizedalong with tlri' rrctil lbr maintenanceof body cleanliness.. Several old Greek, ll.rrrirr. Iluddhist and Hebrew literary works mention the use of tooth1t, 1,,, t'lrcw sticks and sponges for teeth cleaning.purpose. Materials rr'.r'rlrrs ingredients of dentifiices at that time were dried animal parts, lrerlr';irnd plant parts, honey and minerals. Several items of the early rrrFrrr'rlicnts were found to be harmful, destroyirrgteeth, irritating oral nrrr r)riit. Some of these harmful substanceswere sulphuric acid, acetic !r' rrl. lcit(l ores,and abrasiveminerals. Over the period of time, various ',trr,lirson these substanceshave helped to identify saf'e and useful ,l rrrlrI I i cc i ngredi ent s. l)crrtiliices can be either simple cleansing dentifrices or also be llr'r;r[ctrtic dentifrices. Therapeuticdentifricesare basically cleansing l'r,'lr;ulllionscontaining, additionally, sorne drugs or chemicals which ,h'(r{':rs(:the occurrenceof dental cariesor help in control of periodontal rfl'.r'il,r('. 'l-heseare achieved by the bactericidal, bacteriostatic,enzymerrrlrilrilirrgor acid-neutralizingqLralitiesof the drugs or chernicalsused. llrr'r;1p1.'111ic dentifrices containing stannous fluoride are widely used ptorl ttr l s.

l)t'ntili'icesare preparedin paste,powder and to a lesserextent in l r,l rrtlrrrrcl bl ock for m s"

243

204

A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETI('I

Funcfions of Dentifrices Though the primary function of a dentifrice is the cleaning of thc accessible surfaces of the teeth, but it can have some other frinctiorr:, also. The expected functions of a dentifrice are as follows(1) Cleansingof tooth (2) Prevention of formation or removal of dental plaque (3) Prevention of formation of calculus (4) Polishing of tooth (5) Reduction ofthe occurrence oftooth decay (6) Reduction of periodontal disease (7) Prevention or reduction of mouth odours and freshening ol breath Some commercial dentifrices may be performing all of the abovt' functions and some may be fulfilling partial functions.

(r) TooTH PASTES Tooth pastesare most popular, v;riuable and widely used preparatiorr:; for cleansingthe teeth. It has largestshare ofdental cleansingand cart' preparations. Though they are expensivethan tooth powders but slill they are more preferred. Tooth pastes are preferred becauseof the following reasons(l) Easy to take measured quantity and spread on the tootlr brush. (2) No spillage or wastage. (3) Attractive consistency. (4) Proper distribution in mouth. A good tooth pdste should have following characters(l)

It must clean the dental surface properly without arrl scratches.

(2) Softnessshould be such that it can be easily squeezedout ()l the tube to spread on the brush, but should not sink into tht' brush. (3) The consistency should remain constant in wide range ()l temperatureduring shelflife. (+) It should not dry, at least not quickly. (5) It shoutd not be toxic and should not sensitizebuccal rnerrr brane. (6) It should not interact with the container material.

I l r l ',

l )l i N 'IA L C A R E P R E P A R A TION S

205

Irrgrr.rl i cnts 'looth pastescontain several ingredients to fulfil various functions. lrrpirt'tlicnts of a tooth paste can be classified as follows and are rli'i(ilssc(lbelow( l) Abrasives and polishing materials (2) Detergentsand foaming materials (3) Humectants (4) Binding agents (5) Sweeteningmaterials (6) Flavours (7) Preservatives (ti) Miscellaneous or special ingredients such as therapeutic agents,whitening agents,etc. ( | ) Abrasives and polishing materials : These materials are also ,,rlh'tl ils cleansing materials. Abrasive is the main constituent of tooth ptlil(-:i or tooth powders. An abrasive should have to be powder and Irrrrrllrrrt not such that it makes scratcheson the enamel or gum. They rre lrrclcrably water-insolublebut water-solubleabrasiveshave also been rupp,cslcdin recent times. Abrasives should not have any unpleasant trrstr'.srnell and also should not be toxic. Though hardness is the Irrlrcrt'rrtcharacter of each substance,however it can, to some extent, al,,rrrlcpcnd on particle size and impurities. Abrasives are responsible lrl rcrrrovingfood particles lodged in the teeth. They also help to rFrtovr some stains from the teeth. Normally the amount of abrasive is ,rl,,rrrtlurlf'of total weight of a tooth paste. I lrc rnaterials most widely used are calcium carbonate, tricalcium di calcium phosphat e, alum inium sulphat e, m agnesium 1rl rrr..pl 111tc, lr l!rlltritlrrand others. ('nlcirrrncarbonate(precipitatedchalk) is the most commonly used 4l,r,rlive. This substanceis availablein different grades. They vary in ,lrrrrrly. crystal form, specific surface,particle size. Normally the very llglrt llriulc calcium carbonateis used in tooth paste preparations. Pastes lrrprrrt'rl rrsinglighter grade do not harden. Calcium carbonateimparts qll,rrlirrilyto the preparation. Chalk is the native form of raw calcium r dl l tl ]l l i tl ( :.

I rilrytlratc and anhydrous dicalcium phosphate,tricalcium phosphate ,rrr,lr rrleirrrrrpyrophosphateare important calcium salts used as abrasives In t,rotlr pastes. Dicalcium phosphatedihydrate (Ca3HPOa.2H2O)is rr',rlly rrsc:damongst them. These substancesare mild abrasives. Both

206

A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS

the dicalcium phosphatesare odourless, tastelessand white. They are slightly soluble in water. They are used, both, as abrasive and polishing agent. Tricalcium phosphate [Ca3@Oa)2]is also a tasteless,odourless white amorphous powder and insoluble in water. It also imparts mild abrasive and polishing effect. Dicalcium phosphate imparts neutral pH to the paste whereas calcium carbonate imparts alkaline pH. Thus preparations containing calcium phosphates have better taste and enhance the stability of the flavour. Sodium metaphosphate, a water insoluble substance, has a good abrasive efTect and used along with tricalcium phosphate. It promotes th e lus t r eot ' t eet h . Magnesium trisilicate is a hydrated magnesiumsilicate (2MgO.3SiO2) and is used along with other abrasivesand polishing agents. It is a fine, white, tastelessand odourlesspowder and insoluble in water. It acts as a mild antacid. Aluminium hydroxide [AI2O3.3H2O or AI(OH)3] is also used in combination of other abrasives and polishing agents. This substanceis available as a microcrystalline powder as well as a gel suspension. The powder has abrasive and cleansing properties. Calcium sulphate is occasionally used and is a mild abrasive. It considerably influences the consistency.

I II II'

I)I N IA I, C A R E P R E P A R A TION S

207

1l; Ilulncctants : Humectants,in tooth pastes,preventdrying out of tlr, prorlrrt:t and imparl some plasticity character to the paste. The lrrflflfilrl ol'lrumectantsused normally can vary from 5 to ljYo. However, .!fllllr'litfr(:shigher amount of 30%,or more is used. Actual amount is rlcrlrlrrl'orr the specific gravity of the powder mass. Substanceswith hrwt,r :;pqrJilicgravity needs less humectant. Only glycerine, sorbitol rrril prolrylctreglycol are widely used as humectantsin tooth pastes. I ll\ r r'riilc irnpartsglossy characterto the product and is the most widely u,rr,rllrrrrrrcctant.Glycerine also imparts sweetness.Sometimessorbitol ls lrlclqrcd over glycerine and imparts more viscosity and plasticity than glr r lrirrc. Sorbitol is also less sticky than glycerine and prevents E F| rtt;tl i on of w ater . t4) llinding agents : Various hydrocolloidsare used in tooth pastes t,r nnpr'()veand maintain the consistency. They also prevent separation ll prrstcs.Aqueousdispersionsof the hydrocolloidsare viscous. These are used in l-2.5o/o. Though, once, starch,liquid glucose Irr'rfrrrcolloids rrlrl ,;irrrplcsyrup were used but slowly they were replaced by mucilages rrf lurirya gum, gum arabic and tragacanth. Gum tragacanth is still a rrlrlrly rrsed binding agent. The exact amount of binding agent will rlept'rrrlon the.ib'nsistencywanted. Normally the gum is first mixed rritlr str(licientquantity of glycerine,alcohol before adding water. This t'{ rlrrrrclo preventformation of lumps.

Other substances occasionally used are talc, kaolin, zirconium silicate,etc.

( )tlrcr substances used are mucilages of chondrus or irish moss, r lullrryrnethyl cellulose,sodium alginate,carbopols,bentonite'veegum'

(2) Detergents and foaming materials : The cleansing action of the detergentsis due to their lowering of surface tension. They help in wetting and dispersion of powdered materials in the paste. They also help penetration of"paste and abrasives into the fine cracks and other places and thus assisting in removal of food particles and debris. By their emulsification capability they help in removal of mucus. They also help in producing foam. Soaps and various synthetic detergents are mostly preferred.

6l r

T'hough soaps are alkaline in nature but still they are used. Specially prepared dental soaps are available for use irr tooth pastes. As soaps may have odour or taste, tastelessand odourlesssoaps are to be used.

((r) l'l:rvours : Flavours are essentially to be incorporated in tooth 1r;r.,t'slirr a long term effect in the mouth. The flavours normally used rrr.' hlcrrclingof suitable oils which in combination with sweetening produce a smooth but distinct taste in the product and also leave a rrp,r'rrl plr.;r\rnt and refreshing smell in the mouth after use. The flavours most rurlt'ly rrsccl in tooth pastes are a blending of peppermirrt oil and ',lrtrrrnrinIoil or only peppermintoil. Only the finest quality flavouring

S1'ntheticdetergentsare widely used in tooth pastes. Sodium laurvl sulphateis one cf them rnostrvidely used. others are rnagncsiumlaur.yl sulphate,sodium lauryl sarcosinate, diethyl sodium lauryl sulphosuccinate. surfactants also lower the abrasive effect of tooth bmsh and abrasives.

(5f Sweetening materials : Sweeteningagent is very important for t'rrll1 1llss,fs.Saccharinesodium is a widely used sweeteningagent' t,frrflrlrfr saccharineis used in 0.05 to 0.31ok' The exact amount will rlr;,t'rrrl 6n the amount of other materials and sweetnessof the other trrprcrlicnts,like glycerine present. Apart from glycerine, chloroform is irl,iil rrsodas a sweeteningagent. Alternative sweeteningagent is sodium r r r lrrrrurtobut due to its toxicity it is banned in several countries.

( 208


I h f H ut;Nl'lrt, (:AREPREPARATIONS

209

I h rnsiorrally several other chemical substancesare incorporated in krrllr prrslcslirr some specific purpose or function. Pancreatinhas been uacrl iu rrlrorrl2.0o%for'the removal of tartar withogt any damage to the krullr cryrrrrcl. Liquid silicones are occasionally incorporated in nonfrrnnrirrgloolh pastesto form thin water repellentfilm, after easyspreading rivcr lr:cllr and to prevent adhesion of food particles. It has to be llrrrrrprrlutcdalong with an emulsiffing agent. Silicones are used in rnrlslrle ;rroportionsand can be used from 0.5-45Yo. Suggestionhas hcerr rrrrrtlcto incorporate chlorophyll in tooth pastes for deodorizing ellpr'l irr halitosis, though there is doubt about its effectiveness at the r.rrrrrr,rrlrltion of 0.1-0.5% at which it is used in tooth paste.

(8) Misceltaneous or speciar ingredients : These are various substancesadditionally incorporated in the tooth paste preparations to achieve special functions. They are listed below(a) colours : They are not preferred much as most of the tooth pastes are white. But, nowadays, several coloured tooth pastes are available to attract the consumers attention or to mask the colour of some special ingredient(s) of the tooth paste formulations. Even multicolour is also used in some products. The colour to be used should

stain removers and whiteners of teeth. (c) Lubricants : Lubricants, are sometimes, incorporated in tooth pastes to facilitate the paste to come out or for filling purpose. Even if the paste stiffens,.presenceof L0 to 2.0%ro liquid pur"ffir, irelps to allow the paste come out without any extra pressure.

Sorlitrrnlauryl sarcosinate,used as foaming agent in tooth paste,also ar lc ns irrrti-enzymeand bacteriostatand also has anti-cariogenic activillcc At low concentration (0.03%) it only acts as hexokinase inhibitors hrrl rrl 0.25% it can prevent growth of bacterial flora in saliva. Alkalis arrrl rrrcl are incorporated to neutralize acid in saliva and to prevent rlerorrrpositionof carbohydratesand formation of acid. Strontium chlorlrle. is incorporatedin tooth pastesfor the treatment of hypersensitivity. lt ir wcll known that fluorides help in preventing tooth decay. It has ireenol.rscrvedthat in certain conditions stannousfluoride combines with lnnllr enamel and forms an insoluble tin oxide, tin phosphates and r nluirrrrr{luoride which inhibit acid penetrationand thus tooth decay' In nnlrrul fbrmulation condition, stannous fluoride or other fluorides rleprndc and thus an ac.idic pH is maintained for the formulation for rtnlrilizingsuch substances. l ' ornrul uti ons licvoral combinations of tooth paste preparations are mentioned hehrw lbr a comprehensiveidea. (ioncral Method of Preparation 'l'lrcse preparationsare preferably made in stainlesssteel mixer conInirrcr, lbr large scale manufacture, filled with slowly rotating blades. It r irrr bc done in a planetary mixer or similar mixer used for semisolid prnpalations. Small scale batch can be made in a glass container. 'l'lrc gum is mixed with a suitable quantity of humectant,without any rvnlcr. fbr proper dispersion. Chloroform or alcohol can also be used for rlispcrsionof binding agents. Other colloids may be dispersedin water. h'cscrvative can be dissolved in glycerine or water. Methyl cellulose slrould be rnixed with cold water, but ethyl cellulose should be dispersed irr warm water. Other powder ingredients are sifted together and added

210


gradually to mucilaginous mixture with continuous gentle stirring. Then aqueous media is mixed and stirred further to get the product. Favour and detergent shouid be added at the last. In an alternative method the binder is premixed with solid abrasives and other powders and then poured in a suitable mixer (dough-type mixer) along with aqueous solution of the humectant, preservative, sweetening agent and mixing is done. After obtaining a homogeneous paste, flavour and detergent are added. TOOTH PASTE Formula I Calcium carbonate Sodium lauryl sulphate Glycerine Gum tragacanth Water Saccharine Flavour Preservative

56.0 gm 1.0 gm 22.0 gm 1.5gm 19.4gm 0.1 gm q.s. q.s.

Formula 2 Calcium carbonate Magnesium carbonate Magnesium hydroxide Sodium lauryl sulphate Gum tragacanth Glycerine Oil of peppermint Saccharine Water Preservative

44.5 gm 1.0gm 3.0 gm 1.0gm 1.0gm 31.0gm 1.0 gm 0.1 gm 18.4gm q.s.

Formula3 Dicalcium phosphate Sorbitol 70 Gum tragacanth Sodium lauryl sulphate Saccharinesodium Water Preservative Flavour

60.0 gm 16.0gm 1.0 gm 1.0gm 0.1 gm 21.9 gm q.s. q.s.

2t1

I h I'r l)liN l Al. CARE PREPARATIONS

Fbrmula4 Tricalcium phosphate Glycerine Propylene glycol Sodium alginate Saccharine Mineral oil Sodium lauryl sulphate Water Preservative Flavour

50.0 gm 8.0 gm t 14.5gm 0.5 gm 0.05 gm 1.0 gm 1.5 gm 24.0 gm q.s. q.s.

Forirula 5 Stannousfluoride Calcium pyrophosphate Glycerine Gum tragacanth Stannouspyrophosphate Sodium lauryl sulphate Flavour oil Water Saccharine Preservative

0.4 gm 40.0 gm 29.0 gm 1.0 gm 1.0 gm 1.5 gm 0.1 gm 269 gm 0.1 gm q.s.

Formula6 Dicalcium phosphate Calcium carbonate Glycerine Gum tragacanth Saccharine Sodium lauryl sulphate Water Flavour Preservative

36.0gm 13.0gm 20.0 gm 1.2 gm 0.1 gm 10.0gm 19.75gm q.s. q.s.

(2) TOOTH POWDERS 'l'ooth powders are, structurally, the oldest and simplest preparations irrrtl lhcy are also the cheapest. Over the years their market share has lrccn rcduced by popularity and advantagesofpastes, but still they have Ir r.onsiderableshareof the market and population. The main problerns

212


)

encountered with tooth powders are floating of powders in air during manufacturing, formation of cake on storage, and uneven distribution in mouth. The oldest tooth powder is reported to be camphorated chalk. More or less every dental care manufacturer also markets tooth powders alongwith toothpaste products. Composition Basically, tooth powders contain the following four ingredienls: (l) An abrasive (2) A surfactant or detergent (3) A sweetening agent (4) Flavour (5) Colour (if required) Abrasives used in manufacturing tooth powders are the same as used in tooth pastes,such as calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate,tricalcium phosphate, calcium pyrophosphate, calcium sulphonate, aluminium sulphate etc. Though lighter calcium carbonate is used in tooth paste but in tooth powders heavier grade calcium carbonate is used. Other ingredients are also selected as in tooth pastes. The following are some of the formulae of tooth powders which are prepared by simple mixing. General Procedure for Manufacture This is done by simple mixing. First ingredients of small quantity are premixed and then mixed with other ingredients in ribbon-type or agitator type of mixer. Flavour can be sprayed on to the bulk or can be premixed with part of some abrasive and polishing agent and then mixed with the bulk. TOOTH POWDERS Formula 7 Phenol Kieselguhr Calcium carbonate(heavy) Flavour Colour

2.5 gm 57.5 gm 40.0 gm q.s. q.s.

First prepare a triturate of the phenol and a small quantity of kieselguhr. This is then sieved and mixed with rest. Add colour and flavor, mix and finally sieve once more.

I h lu

2r3

t)l i N l A l . C A R E P R E P A R A TION S

,

Formula8 Calcium carbonate Dental soap powder Flavouring oil Saccharinesodium

92.8 gm 6.0 gm 1.0 gm 0.2 gm

For m ula9 . Calcium carbonate Kaolin Sodium lauryl sulphate Powdered pumice Saccharinesodium Flavour i Colour

76.0 gm 11.9gm 2.0 gm 10.0gm 0.1 gm q.s. q.s.

For m ulal0 Calcium carbonate Tricalcium phosphate Sodium lauryl sulphate Sodium perborate Saccharinesodium Flavour Colour

84.0 gm 10.0gm 3.0 gm 2.0 gm 1.0 gm q.s. q.s.

(J) SOLID AND LIQUID DENTAL PREPARATIONS I lrrrrrglrthese preparationsare not much popular, but still they exist lr llrt'rrrlrket and have limited use for tooth cleaning purpose. Solirl dcntal preparationsare basically a tooth powder suspendedin a ,,n,tpl)ilsc and converted to solid shapes. The abrasive materials vary lri,rlr \0-80%0and the soap is about20-50o/o.They also contain flavours, and occasionallycolours. ',rrt'r:lcrrcrs For m ula1l Dental soap Calcium carbonate Glycerine Saccharinesodium Colour Flavour

16"9gm 80.0 gm 3.0 gm 0.1 gm q.s. q.s.

llrt' srlap and calcium carbonateare mixed along with glycerine, and r,tlr,.rrrtl{itivis and then milled and mixed with some water, if necesSarY,

214


I h l ',

l )l N l A t. C 'A R E P R E P A R A TION S

215

to form a soft mass. Then they are made into bars, stick by mechanical process.

in t'it,t,tcst lras been suggestedin which teeth were brushed for 2 weeks before and after use with the help of rrrrrlr onrlilion of teeth was assessed

use of liquid dentifrices is comparatively less than the solid ones. They are basically aqueous or hydroalcohoric solutions of surfactants with additional components of thickening agent, sweetener,flavour, etc. They do not contain any abrasive as they will sediment. So the action ol' these preparations on dental surface is less but the creansing effect is a little more.

1rl rnIop' .rrtpl ts.

For m ula 12

Sodium myristate sulphate Methyl cellulose Saccharinesodium Flavouring oil Glycerine Alcohol Water

4.0 gm 4.0 gm 0.1 gm 0.3 gm 5.0 gm 10.0gm 85.4 gm

The manufacturingfprocessis basically making simple solution of all ingredients. The hydrocolloids are first dispersed in part of the solvent prior to mixing with other ingredients. Flavour is dissolved in alcohol and then added to glycerine and mixed to the bulk. Evaluation Identification of ingredients and estimation of their contents are essential components of overall quality control and evaluation of dental care products. The products, tooth pastes and tooth powders, can be basically classified into foam forming and non-foam forming. Some other special evaluation tests are as follows: (1) Abrasiveness : various tests have been designed and reported over the year, mostly on the set of extracted teeth. The teeth were mechanically brushed with pastes or powders and then the effects were studied by observation, mechanical or other means. Abrasive character normally depended on the particle size. So, study of particle size can also give such idea. (2) Particle size : This can be determined by microscopic study of the particles or by sieving or other means. (3) Cleansing properfy : This is studied by measuring the change in the reflectance character of a lacquer coating o.t u poly"rter film caused by brushing with a tooth cleanser (paste or porvder). Also an

{4) ('onsistency : It is important that the product, paste, should rrrlrnl,rin tlre consistencyto'enable the product press out from the ,rrtiunL'r'. Study of viscosity is essentialfor this. Rheology of powders i, rrl,,oirrrportantfor proper flow of the powders from the container. (5) pll of the product : pH ofthe dispersionof 10% ofthe product irr rr,rlcr is determinedby pH meter. (0) l'oaming character : This test is specially required for foaml"nrinp, tootti pastesor tooth powders. Specific amount of product can l,c rrrixcd with specific amount of water and to be shaken. The foam tlrrrr lirlrnedis studiedfor its nature,stability, washability. (7) Limit test for arsenic and lead : This is very importantas these rrl' lrighly toxic metals. Specific tests are there to estimate these two lrr,trrls. However, if the raw materialsare tested for the limit of these trro rrrclals.productsmay not have excessof such metals. (lt) Volatile matters and moisture : A specific amount of the lrrrrlue:trequired to be taken in a dish and drying is to be done till | {lt\tiult weight. Loss of weight will indicate percentageof moisture ,rrrrlvolatile matters. 1r)) Effect of special ingredients : Special tests should be done for tlrr'spccialingredientsif any, like antiseptic,enzymes'etc. For each one .,;rt'e i:rl and specifictest are to be done.

I l r J{l

CHAPTER-20

Mouthwashes These products are not discussed along with tooth pastes or tootrr powders, as there are definite differences between the two catesories or products, both functionwise and compositionwise. The main fuiction ol tooth pastes and tooth powders is cleansing whereas mouthwashes arc basically deodorants and antiseptics. But, it should be mentioned herc that all tooth pastes and tooth powders also act as deodorants as they help in the removal of food debris which causes mouth odours o' decomposition in mouth by oral bacteria. If any bacterioside is arso present in tooth pastesthey help in inhibiting bacterial activity. As mosr of the tooth pastes coXtain fragrance, they also help in masking thc unpleasantodour of the mouth. Similally mouthwashes apart from their , main function of deodorantsand antiseptics, can also help in cleansing by removing water-solubresubstancesor loose debris from the surfaces or between the teeth or from oral cavitv. A good mouthwash should have the following characters_ ( l) Good and quick antiseptic action at the dilution it is used (2) Attractive flavor to impart a odour to the mouth (3) Sweet taste (4) Not much expensive (s) Non-irritant to mouth and mucous membrane (6) Non-toxic Composition

M()l l l l IWA S I IE S

217

l'.r'rr lirurrclrcdin recent past particularly in advanced countries. The cornponentsof mouthwash preparationsareirrrprr1111111 ( | ) Antiseptic or antibacterial substances (2) Astringents ,(1) Deodorizing agents (4) Drug extracts (5) Flavours (6) Surfactants (7) Sweeteners (8) Colours (9) Vehicle Srrrrrcof the above components are essential but a few of them are n;rtrorurland may be incorporated according to the specific requirements rlil(l larget population. | | ) An(iseptic Substances . 't lrcseare the active constituentsof most of the mouthwashes. Varirrrr,,substancesare availableto selecta suitableantisepticfor incorporating irr ;r rltluthwash. The choice of specific antiseptic is made according to tlrt. nccd and matching with other ingredients. Substancesnormally used rtr{ l)llenol and its derivatives, hexachlorophene,quaternary ammonium ,,rnrpounds,thymol, salicylic acid, formalin, boric acid, tannic aqid, lryrlroxybenzoatesetc. l'henol and its derivatives : Though there are a large number of ;rlrcnolderivatives having antiseptic properties,only a limited number of tlrcrrr are actually used in mouthwashes. The non-suitability of others rrrrry be due to objectionable taste, poor solubility, degradation and rliscoloration,toxicity, sensitization propeffy and cost. The phenol and itr tlcrivatives and their concentration used in mouthwashesare phenol (o l-lok), beta-naphthol(0.3-0.5%), thymol (0.1%), chlorothymol (0.050 l'i{,), hexachlorophene(0.02-0.2%o), hexylresorcinol (0.05-0.1%),amyl-, lx,xyl-, heptyl- and octyl-phenols(0.05-0.3%). Normally, phenolic comlrorrndsare more active in hydroxyl form than the phenolate form. Para srrbstitutedto hydroxyl group are more active than other phenol derivativcs. Aqueous solution, normally, is more active than solutions in other .rolvcnts. [f water solubility of any phenolic compound is poor it can be :;olrrbilizedby using a suitable surfactant or solubilizing agent, such as l w ocns. Quaternary arnmonium compounds : These compounds have beert lirund useful as antiseptics in mouthwashes. Some quatemary ammo-

216

218

A }IANDBOOK OF COSMETICS

nium compounds are very good oral antibacterial and deodorant agents. sometimes these compounds are used along with some other antiseptics, such as chlorohexidines. The quaternary ammonium compounds are effective against a wide spectrum of bacteria and normally active at alkaline pH. one important problem with quaternary ammonium compounds is their incompatibility with other compounds,particularly anionic detergents,oil of peppermint, methyl parahydroxy benzoates,citric acid, saccharine, boric acid etc. However, there are some quaternary com_ pounds which are highly effective over a wide range of pH and with higher compatibility. Such stable compounds are cetyl pyridinium chloride, quarternary morpholinium alkyl sulphates etc. euaternary ammonium compounds should not be used in excess, as at higher concentration they are toxic and irritant to mucosa. Essential oils : Though they are basically used as favouring agents, but some essential oils also have antiseptic properties. cinnamon oil, cassiaoil, clove oil, eucalyptusoil, thyme oil, peppermintoil, anise oil, oil of wintergreen or main constituents of these oils such as thymol, menthol, eucalyptol, anethole and methyl salicylate have antiseptic properties.

I h l tl

M( tl r'IIIWA S HE S

2t9

trfrlr..l:rrr(:cs used for astringent action are zinc chloride, zinc acetate, clrrrnrrrrrrlrr srrlphate(alum), all in 0.05-0.2o/o. Zinc phenosulphateis unFrfllr (l l-(l.l%o concentration. Tannic acid and its derivatives, acetic ar t'l r rtrrt':rcid,lactic acid are also used in mouthwashesin 0.05-0.5%. Ins irlr,,'lrolicsolution or aqueous solution containing glycerine and frlrirr. ol trrrrnicacid havearealso used. Copper iron or manganesesalts itr nrt rrscddue to metallic taste or staining charactel though they are 4,'l | i l l l i ( 'nl .

1l; l)rorftrrizing Agents lt r,, nol only the bacterial growth on food parlicles in the rnouth. but =r\r'r.ll ollrcr factors,as suggestedearlier,r'oniributeto the causeof bad ltentlr I'athological conditions of oral cavity, teeth, throat, gastrotrrlellilritl tract, the lungs and nasal passage may cause bad breath. !s.vr.rccongestionor bough can also causebad breath. However, a local rrenrtl(: can be taken to achieve
lvliscellaneousantibacterial compounds : other individual antiseptics are clubbed under this category. variety of substancesof different structures are used as oral antiseptics. Formalin, an aqueoussolution of formaldehyde (37-4lo/o),is a powerful germicide. Formalin is occasionally incorporated as l%o solution in mouthwashes and further diluted (1:5) before use. Diluted hydrogen peroxide is also a useful germicide and used occasionally. Boric acid (2-4./o),benzoic acid,(l-2%) are also occasionally incorporated in mouthwashes. Iodine liberating substances are also used as iodine is a good antiseptic. Sodium perborate, urea peroxide or other oxygen-bearing compounds have also been recommended to incorporate in mouthwashesas antiseptic.

I c ) l'lf,vours Virrious flavouring agents are available for incorporating in mouthwir\hcs. Peppermint oil, menthol, thymol, aniseed oil, clove oil, rrrr rrlyptusoil, cinnamon oil, anethole,fennel, methyl salicylateare widely rr.,rtl. As mentioned earlier some of them also act as an antiseptic.

(2) Astringents

(61 liurfactants

Astringents are being used in mouthwashesfrom a long,time. Astringents are incorporated in mouthwashesfor following various actions: (a) 'Io shrink and protect inflamed mucous surfaces. (b) To precipitate proteins of saliva.

t )ccasionally surfactants are incorporated in mouthwashes to have welling, or detergent,or solubilizing effects. To keep all the ingredients, Irrrrticularlywhen water content is more, in solution sometimessolubilizrrrg agents may be required. Tweens or other compatible surfactants can hc uscd. Particularly to keep flavours in aqueous media surfactants help irr solubilization of flavours.

(c) To dirninish accumulatedmucous secretionsby precipitation. Astringents are also known to have mild antiseptic property though not much proof is available.

r h !o M( )ril llw^stlEs

220


(7) Sweeteners Sugars are not used as sweetener in mouthwashes. Saccharine.or other synthetic sweetener extracts can be used for this purpose.

are oftencolouredwith vegetable "';:lT;shes d!es. The usefur dyesare saffron,carmine,phloxine,erythrosine.They do not have effect on the other ingredients and on their action. (9) Vehicle This is a very important ingredient as all the constituentshave to be kept in solution in the vehicle. Alcohol alone or in combination with water is the widely used solvent. Thus the preparationsare to be diluted with water in definite proportion, as suggestedon the label, before use. Dilution with water may have another advantage as dilution with water, just before use, may lead to the precipitation of flavours and disinfectants. This will lead to better adherenceof the above substanceson the oral cavity and membrane and thus longer action. Glycerine is also incorporated in mouthwashes. Use of glycerine has an added advantage as it is also a sweetening agent with a flavour. It has also a demulcent and conditioning effect on mucous membrane. Sometimes a small quantity of hydrocolloids is incorporated to increase the viscosity.

FormulaI Benzoicacid 1.00gm Cetyl triethyl ammoniumbromide 0.60 gm Resorcinol 1.00gm Thymol 0.15 gm Methyl salicylate 0.35 gm Eucalyptol 0.15 gm Menthol 0.15 gm Alcohol 22.00 gm Water 74.60 gm Formula2 Tincture of myrrh Benzoic tincture Tinctureof iris Peppermintoil

2.0 gm 1.5 gm 1.5 gm 1.5 gm

'l'hymol Arrethol liugenol Cinnamonoil sodium Saccharine Alcohol, Water

0.2 gm 0.5 gm 0.2 gm 0.1 gm 0.5 gm 70.0 gm 22.0 gm

'

3 Formula Anethol Methyl salicylate Menthol Propyleneglycol Glycerine Tween80 sodium Saecharine Ethyl alcohol Colour

0.6 gm 1.0 gm 0.2 gm 20.0 gm 30.0 gm 20.0 gm 2.0 gm 26.2 gm q.s.

4 Formula Phenol Boric acid Tincture of myrrh Tinctureof quillaia Glycerine Roseoil Peppermintoil Aniseedoil Cinnamonoil Clove oil Alcohol

1.0 gm 2.2 gm 2.0 gm 10.0gm 5.0 gm 10.0gm 0.4 gm 0.4 gm 0.1 gm 0.2 gm 68.7 gm

Formula5 Phenol Solutionof sodiumhYdroxide (3.56%wlv) Concentratedorangeflower water Concentratedrose water Glycerine Water Colour

3.6 gm 9.5 gm 2.0 gm 1.0 gm 12.5 gm 71.4gm q.s.


Formula6 Sodiumpotassiumcopperchlorophyllin 0.05 gm Peppermintoil 0.06 gm Spearmintoil ,0.04gm Sodiumcarboxymethylcellulose r 1.00gm Solublizingagent 0.50 gm Saccharine sodium 0.15gm Ethyl alcohol 10.00gm Water 88.20gm All the above products are required to be diluted with water before use according to the instructions on the laber. The dilution is l:5 for formulae 2, 4 and 5 but formula 3 can be diluted by l:0. Formulae I and 6 are to be diluted by l:l Evaluation As mouthwashes are used for specific purposes, such as antiseptic, deodorizing action etc. in the mouth, it is necessary to perform suitabre tests to determine their effectiveness. The following important tests should be carried out apart from common tests for identity, content, clarity. Antiseptic property : Though the antisepticsnormally _(l) used are well known and estabrishedone, but their activity in pure state is of Iimited value for the expected antiseptic activity in the formurations. other ingredients present in the formuration may modify the activity. So it is necessary to carry out separate test for their activity in formulation, both lz vitro and in vivo. (a) rn vitro antiseptic activify : This can be carried out against suitable oral microorganisms in a suitabre liquid media o, aga.-inediu against a control and determining their effectiveness against tfi" g.o*tn of the organisms. (b) In ,va antiseptic activity : This can be done by collecting representative bacterial samples, before and after the use oflouthwash, and culturing and countin_gcolonies on agar prate. The representative samples can be collected from the mouth by rinsing with saline solution or swabbing with cotton and then inoculated oi agar prate. After incubation for a required period of time the number of colonies wiil be indicative of organisms present in the mouth. By this process,optimum time rpquired to keep the mouthwash in mouth can arso be determined.

I h ,'o

MOIJI Ii WAS H E S

223

(l) l)eodorizing effect : Locar deodorizing effect can be evaruated Irr rrr.rrrhby using chemical analysis,surface tension effects. Instru_ r' errrs rcported t o be used t o m easur e lever of odour ar e gas r lrr'rrrirl,graph, fair-werls osmoscopeetc. Also human olfactory system I r* rx' rrsedto evaluate odour intensity and deodorant action. profes_ Elrr'l hrr'an tastersare there,for such evaluation as used in tea industry, l l rl rr)l i ndustry. 1'l) Stability study : Stability of the productsand their components ql"'rrcctls to be carriedout. Activity of tire antisepticscan be decreased rrver rlrr: time. Also stability of the astringents,flavours, corours.are irrrr.rlirlt. This can be done by normar stability study or accererated ttrrl rrl i tystudy. ('l) other speciar tests : clinicar trials may need to be qarried out l.r 111111;15*ushes as they sometime contain therapeuticagents. Tests rtlrir lr rrrc normalry suggested,according to the need, are effect on dental r r' lr'". c lJbct on orar soft tissue problems, cleaning and astringent efl erts. ctc.

APPENDIX-I Provisions of Drugs and Cosmetics Act as Applicable to Cosmetics A, l)cfinition ('osmetics, as defined in the Act, mean articles meant to be rubbed, grrrrrrcd, sprinkled or sprayed or introduced into or otherwise applied to tlre lrrrmanbody or any part thereof for cleansing,beautifoing, promoting rrllnrctivenessor altering the appearance. ln the last few years the consumption of cosmetics has touched new lrcip.htsand the curve is shooting upwards and hence the controls sought Io bc cxercised on the drugs have been extended to a certain extent to llre cosmetios. tl . l mport lror purposesof import, the cosmetics are deemed to be drugs for the rrrr;rortof which no license is necessary and all rules applicable to irrrport of such classes of drugs are applicable to cosmetics as welllkrwcver, the import of the following classesof cosmetics is prohibited' (i) Misbranded cosmetics which contain colors other than those prescribed or are not labeled in the prescribed manner or make : any false or misleading claims. (ii) Spurious cosmetics meaning cosmetics which are imitations or substitutesfor other cosmetics or resemble other cosmetics in a manner likely to causedeception or are imported under names of other cosmetics or bear names of manufacturerswhich are fictitious or who are truly not the manufacturers. (iii) Cosmetics not of standardquality. (iv) Cosmetics containing any harmful or unsafe ingredients. (v) Cosmetics containing prescribed colors which contain more than 2 p.p.m.of arsenicor 20 p.p.m. of lead or 100 p.p.m. of heavy metals other than lead. (vi) Cosmetics intended for use on the eye brows or eye lashes or around the eyes containing coal tar dyes or intermediates. (vii) Cosmetic colored with arsenic or lead compounds. lviii) Cosmetics containing hexachloropheneor mercury compounds. (ix) Cosmeticswhose use is likely to involve any risk to the users. 225

226


However, small quantities of cosmetics whose import is otherwise prohibited may be imported if they are meant for personal use and form part of a passenger,'Esbaggage and are declared tq the customs authorities on being directed to do so. C. Manufacturing r A license obtainable frorir the Licensing Authority is now essential for undertaking manufacture of cosmetics. The licenses are granted on payment of requisite fees and fulfilment of other prescribed conditions and, in general, rules applicable to the licenses granted for the manufacture of allopathic drugs are applicable to these licenses as well. Manufacture of cosmetics containing hexachlorophene or mercury compounds or misbranded or spurious cosmetics or cosmetics which are not of standard quality is prohibited. A person licensed to manufacture cosmetics should fulfil following conditions: (i) The factory premises should be maintained in clean condition, should be situated in hygienic surroundings, and should be distinct and separatefrom premisesused for residentialpurposes. (ii) Adequate space and staff should be provided and manufacture should be conducted under the direction and personal superv! sion of competenttechnical staff at least one of whom should be a whole time employee and should either hold diploma in phar_ macy approved by the pharmacy Act or should have passed intermediate examination with chemistry as one of the subject. However, for small scale manufacturers, employing not more than 5 persons, a person with general training and experience, extending over not less than 4 years in the manufacture of cosmetics, may be deemed to be competent technical staff by Licensing Authority. (iii) Either adequatefacilities should be provided on the premises for the testing of raw materials and manufactured products or suitable arrangements should be made with approved institutions for the purpose.Records relating to such tests should be maintained for at least 3 years from the date of manufacture. (iv) Cosmetics containing colors other than those specif,redby Bu_ reau of Standards or colors which contain more than 2 p.p..m. of arsenic or more than 20 p.p.m. of lead or more than 100 p.p.m. of heavy metals other than lead and eyebrows or eye-lashes etc. containing any coal tar color should not be manufactured. The use of arsenic or lead compounds for coloring cosmetics is also prohibited.

tp.lr I

I'H()Vlsl()Ns()l; DRUGSAND COSMETICACT

227

r v I I lrc lrrspcctorsshould be allowed to inspect premises, records ctt , irrrd to take samples of manufactured products. An inspecIron lrook should also be maintained wherein the inspectorscan t'rrtcrthcir remarks" n r) ltct ords of manufacture should be kept as per ScheduleU(I) for lrl lcast 3 years. At irr lhc case of drugs, licenses for the manufacture of cosnietics rFlrrun vrrlitl up to 3lst Decemberin the year following the year of issue afll !rrnyhc suspendedor cancelledifthe licenseefails to observeany of rlre rrrrrrlitions,discussedabove. A licensee,aggrievedby this decision t lrfr rrll)cirl to the State Government within 3 months of suspensionor can also be manufacturedunder loan licensesas ' lnr r.llulion.Cosmetics r;i llu' l:ilsc with drugs. Arryorrc martufacturing any spurious cosmetic shall be punishable ,rttlr irrrprisoYtment up to 3years and fine. Personsconvicted of manufacrrrrerol' cosmetics in contravention of any other provision are liable to ilrlrudonm€ntfor a term up to I year and or fine up to Rs. 1000. l l S nl e No license is necessaryfor the sale of cosmetics but the dealers in r can sell only such products as do not contraveneany provi',1111s1ig5 ,rrrrusof'the Act and the Rules. In case a dealer is required to disclose tlrr. illune and other particulars of the person from whom he obtained ,,rrtlclics he is legally bound to"comply with such directions.Anyone rrlrrr lhils to disclose the name of manufacturer or sells any cosmetic in ,,rrlruvcntion of the Act and the Rules may be imprisonedfor I year or lrrrr:rllls. 500 on first conviction or imprisoned for 2yeats and fined up to l(r. 1000 on any subsequentconviction. I hc following classes of cosmetics are expressly prohibited to be rtockcd, sold or exhibited for the sale: (i) Misbranded or spurious cosmetics and cosmetics not of a standard quality. (ii) Cosmetics containing any ingredient which makes them unsafe or harmful for use under the directions indicated or recommended. (iii) Cosmetics imported or manufactured in contravention of any provision of the Act and the Rules. 'l'he inspectors may require a person not to dispose any stock of r oslnetics.


228

ACT ANDCOSMETIC OFDRUGS '{;rrlrI l'l{()VIStONS

E. Labeling and Packing cosmeticssold or distributedin India, whetherthey are of Indian origin or importedfrom outside,shouldbe labeledand packedin accordancewith the following provisions:

229

r,r, lr irnrl cvcry application. The preparation should on no account be rrtt.rl lpl rlycing. eyebrows or eyelashessince severe inflammation of the F\ r' or cvcn blindnessmay result," \l r l l rol i c l i agrance s ol uti ons

(i) The words: HARMFUL IF TAKEN INTERNALLY (ii) Content of Diethyl phthalatein each ml'

Class of Cosmelics

Labeling Part (On both Inner and Outer Labels)

ri l r l l tr:i r:i ttt-dc-col Ogne | i l rrl ri l i l i ng di cthyl phthal ate

Cosmeticsin general

Name of the cosmetics and name and address of the manufacturer. Manufacturing License Number preceded by the letter B if the cosmetic is packed in containers having more than 10 gm.

| i l :i l rr'l i c l i l r expOrt

On the Outer Labels Net contents of the package expressed as weight for solids and semi-solids, as volume for liquids or as numerical counts, if the cosmetic is subdivided provided that this statementneed not appear if the contained cosmetic is not more than 60 ml/30 gm.

'rlirlr t'orttaininghexachlorophene

On Inner Label Only Adequate directions for safe use; warning, caution, or special directions; names and quantities of ingredients that Are hazardous.

Nrr/r,: No soap is permitted to contain more than l7o hexachlorophene.

Hair dyes containing dyes,colors,and pigments.

(i) Specific requirements,if anY (ii) Name and address of manufacturerand n a m e o f co sm e ti c o r a co d e N o . approved by the licensing authority.

I rrullrpastescontainingfluorides

Contains hexachlorophene;not to be used on babies (i) Content of fluoride in p.p.m. (max.1000 p .p .m .) (ii) Date of expiry.

1,,(' ol ors l'lrc following colors may be added to medicine and cosmetics grruvidcdthe common name and the percentageof the color are stated on tlrt lirbel of the container.The medicines or cosmeticsto which these ( ol()rs are added shall noi b" deemed to be misbranded only becauseof llrc lirct of addition of colors therein:

With the words'. Cautio,n.This product contains ingredients which may cause skin irritation in certain casesand so a preliminary test according to the accompanying directions should be made. This product should not be used for dyeing the eyelashesor eye brows as such use may cause blindness. (Equivalent labeling in local languagesis also mandatorY).

l. Natural colors : Annatto, carotene' cochineal, curcumin,'chlorophyll, red oxide of iron, yellow and black oxide of iron, titanium dioxide.

Note : If the cosmetic has only one label, all the information required to be disclosed on the inner or outer labels shall be displayed on this label. The following instructions in English and local language should

2. Artificial colors : Carmel. 3. Coal tar colors : t'ttmmon Neme ttf Colors

accompany the package of Hair dyes. "This preparation may cause serious inflammation of the skin in some casesand hence a preliminary test should always be carried out to determine whether or not special sensitivity exists. To make the test, clean a small area behind the ear or upon the inner surface of the forearm using either soap or water or alcohol. Apply a small quantity of the hair dye as prepared for use to the area gently with soap and water. If no irritation or inflammation is apparent it may be assumed that no hypersensitivity exists. The test should however be carried out before

Color Index Number

Chemical Nqme

( i r'(.on: (.)uinazarine

61565

1,4-bis(p-Toluino)anthraquinone

61570

Disodium salt of 1,4-bis

( ilcen SS Alizarin Cyanine (irccn F

*

(o-sulfo-tulouino)

lrirstGreen FCF

42053

(irccn S

44090

anthraquinone

230 CommonName of Colors


Color Index Number

Chemical Name APPENDIX-II

Yellow: Tartrazine

19140

Trisodium salt of 3-carboxy-5-hydroxy_lp-sulfophenyl-4-p-sulfo phenyl_azopyraozle

SunsetYellow FCF

15985

Disodium salt of l-p sulfo-phenyl_azo_2 naptho l-6 sulfonic acid

Quinoline Yellow WS

47005

Disodium salt of disulfonic 'acid of 2(2_ Quinolyl)-1,3 indardoine

Amaranth

16185

Trisodium salt of l(4-sulfo-inaphthylazo) 2-naptho l-3, 6-disulfonic acid

Erythrosine

45430

Disodium salt of 9-0-carboxyphenyl-6_ hydroxy 2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-3-isoxanthone.

Red:

Eosin YS Or Eosin G

45380

Toney Red or Sudan IIr

26100

I -p-phenylazo phenylazo-2-naphtho.

Ponceau4 R

I 8255

Trisodium salt of l-(4-sulpho-l-naphthyt_ azo) 02naphtho l-6;8 disulphonic acid

Carmoisine

t47720

Fast Red E

Disodium salt of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromo_9_o_ carboxyphenyl-6-hydroxy-3isoxanthone

Disodium salt of 2-(4-sulpho-l-4sulphonic acid)

16005

Disodium salt of 2-(4-sulpho_l_naphthyl_ azo)-2- naphthol-6-sulphonicacid

Indigo Carmine

73015

Disodium salt of indigotin

Brilliant Blue FCF

42090

-5:5-Disulphonicacid

60725

Disodium salt of I phenylazo2 naptho l_6, 8-disulphonic acid

20170

Monosodium salt of 4 p-sulfophenylazo 2(2,4-xylylazo) 1,3-resorcinol

B lue:

Violet: Alizurol Purple

Brown: Resorcin Brown

Black: Naphthol Blue

20470

Dis odium s alt o f g a m i n o 7 _ 5 _ n i t r o phenylazo-2 phenylazo 2 phenylazo_I _naph_ thol 3,6 disulfonic acid

Most Often Used Ingredients of Cosmetics

Il,-rrtorrilc t r r l rr u n rc a r b o n ate | , r l l o r r l a lk a o l i n t orrrslarch ltll;'rrc:siumcarbonate li'lrr;irrcsium oxide

t rrI iutrr myristAte I rrlLllllnstearate I rthiriln stearate lr'lnpincsium myristate

ABSORBENTS Potato starch Precipitatedchalk Rice starch Tricalcium phosphate Wheat starch

ADHESIVES Magnesiumsilicate Magnesium stearate Talc Zinc stearale

AN TIOXID AN TS Monoisopropyl citrate ,{:r orbic acid acid Nor-dihydroguaiaretic Arcorbyl palmitate Phenyl alphanaphthylamine I t t 't i r - N a p t h o l Propyl gallate I lrrtylated hydroxyanisole Pyrogallol I trrtylatcdhydroxytoluene ( rlric acid Pyrocatechol Sodium bisulphite I trlirurylthiodipropionate Sodium metabisulphite | )ntearyl thiodipropionate Sodium sulphite .t,'t-di-tert-butylhydroquinone Sodium thiosulphate I thyl gallate ( inllic acid Thioglycerol Thiosorbitol llyrlroquinone Thiourea lronscorbic acid Thioglycollic acid I ct:ithin Trihydroxybutyrophenone Mlrlcic acid

llcthional I lcnz.alkoniumchloride lhrric acid llcta naphthol ('umphor ( lhlorhexidine diacetate ( lhlorinated bisphenol

ANTISEPTICS Hexyl phenol Heptyl phenol Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate Propyl parahydroxy benzoate Menthol Mcthyl salicylate Phenol 231

232

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETICS Phenosulphonate Salicylic acid Thymol Tannic acid Octyl phenol Zinc phenosulphonate

Chlorothymol Cinnamon oil Clove oil Cresol Formalin Hexachlorophene Hexyl resorcinol

Mos'l Ol-'tEN USED INGREDIENTSOF COSMETICS

h rrolttt stearate Mnp,rtcsittttr l 'r t r r p i t i r t c dc h a l k l{ tr c stirrclt

COVERING AGENTS Titaniumdioxide Zinc oxide Zinc stearate

DETERGENTS ANTIDANDRUFF

Carboxymethyl cellulose Chondrus Eithylcellulose Glycerylmonostearate Hydroxypropylcellulose Isopropytmyristate Karyagum Lanolinderivatives Magnesiumstearate

AGENTS

Thiol-n-oxide Thymol Zinc pyridinium Zinc undecylinate

Cadmiumsulphide Camphor Menthol Seleniumsulphide Sodiumsulphacetamide

Iron oxides Alizarin Alminium hydrate Amaranth Carmine Cochineal Chlorophyll Chromiumoxides Citrusred Eosin Erythrosine Fluorescein Indigo Indigocarmine Iragalitered

Ay,lr ll

Ar vl bcta-aminopropionates Ar yl pcptides Ar yl sitrcocine All.yl cther sulPhates Arrrnroniumlauryl sulPhate t'ur'onut diethanolamide Iticthyl sodium lauryl sulpho.irrccinate

BINDERS Methyl cellulose Mineraloil Polyvinylpynolidone Soaps Sodiumalginate Starch Tragacanth Veegum Zinc stearate

lropropanolamide

coLoRs

lsopropyl mYristate lropropylpalmitate lsopropyl lanolate l,urrolin

,

Lake red D Lake red DBA Lake red DCA Naptholblueblack OrangeG Phthalocyanine blue Resorcinbrown RhodamineB 500 Saffron Tartrazine Tetrabromofluorescein Tetrachlorofl uorescein Titaniumdioxide Ulramarines Zinc oxide

lauryl sulphate Mntr',rrcsium Mctlryl taurides Morrocthanolamide

('cstostearylalcohol ( 'c l y l a l c o h o l ('()coabutter ( iroundnutoil

Acacia Agor agar llccswax ('urboxy cellulose ('cllulose acetate ( lcllulose acetobutyrate ( lcllulosenitrate ('ctostearyl alcohol llthyl cellulose (ium copal (;um damar (ium elemi lsopropyl lanolate

Monoethanol laurYl sulPhate MonoglYceride sulPhate Sodium alkYl benzenesulPhonates Sodium cetYl sulPhate Sodium decYl sulPhate Sodium laurYl sulPhate sulPhoSodium di-(ethYl-hexYl) succinate Sodium di-tert-nonYl sulPhosuccinate Sodium octYl sulPhate Sodium lauryl sarcosinate Triethanol lauryl sulPhate

EMOLLIENTS Lanolin alcohol Lanolin oil Lanolin wax SPermaceti Stearic acid Wool wax alcohol Wool wax steroids

FILM FORMERS Lanolin alcohol Lanolin oil Lanolin wax Liquid Paraffin Methacrylate MethYl cellulose Paraffin wax PhospholiPids PolYvinYl PYrrolidone Shellac Stearic acid StearYlalcohol Tragacanth

A I{ANDBOOK OF COSMETICS Karya gum Lanolin

Vinyl resin

Bismuth citrate Cadmium sulphate Camomile Cobalt sulphate Copper sulphate Copper chloride Henna Lawsone Lead acetate

HAIR COLORANTS Lead sulphate Nickel sulphate Ortho amino phenol 4-nitro-1, 2-amino benzene Paraphenylenediamine Paraaminophenol Pyrogallol Silver nitrate Reng

Arsenic trisulphide Barium sulphide Calcium sulphide Calcium thioglycol late Keratinase Lithium thioglycollate Magnesium sulphide

HAIR REMOVERS Rhodamine Sodium stannite Sodium sulphide Stronsilum sulphide Stronsium thiolactate Thiglycolic acid Zinc sulphide

t

Amino acids Egg Herbal extracts Lanolin

HAIR CONDITIONING AGENTS Lanolin oil Lecithin Oleylalcohol Protein hydrolysate HUMECTANTS

Ethylene glycol Fructose Glucose Glucosamine Glycerine Mannitol Polyethylene glycol Polyoxyethyleneglycerin

Arachis oil Acetoglycerides Butyl stearate Castor oil

Polyoxyethylene sorbitol Propyleneglycol Sodiumlactate Sodium 2-pynolidone-5-carboxylate Sorbitol Triethyleneglycol Triethanolamine Urea OILS Mustardseedoil Oleyl alcohol Oliveoil Paraffinoil

Ap{r ll

M()sT OF-TENUSED TNGREDIENTSOF COSMETTCS

I o r o t t r t l
t 1il.ilililc

Peanutoil Propyleneglycol monoricinoleate Tetrahydrofurfurylalcohol Tetrahydrofurfurylacetate Tetrahydrofurfurylb€nzoate Tetrahydrofurfurylstearate Tetrahydrofurfurylricinoleate

OPACIFIERS Propyleneglycol stearate Titanimdioxide Zinc oxide Zinc stearate

l l y r l r o u sl a n o l i n I llltr)ln)nc Nlrrgnesiumstearate lioll's1l't1.t. glycol 400

A l t t u r r t tol i l h l,rrrrrruth oxychloride I lr on butter ( orlor oil

235

PEARLSCENT AGENTS 4-methyl-7-diethylamino coumarin 4-methyl-5, 7-dihydrocoumarin Mica Spermaceti Starch

I ttlrrrrl.paraffin

A rttlrt'rgris A rrrylcinnamicaldehyde llcil/yl Dcetate I lcrgnrrrot llurt tlc rose | ||:lotcttm t lrrrrunric alcohol I llill I ivel I rrgt'rrol I rrrrcsol t rcrrrtriol t iuurrium I l1,.lroxycitronellal

,\ r'cty Iirtcdmonoglyceride rr llulyl stearate ( 'n t t r l l l t o r ( rr,iloroil ( lrlorinateddiphcnylenes

PERFUMES Ionone Lavenderoil Linalol Methyl salicylate Musk Patchouli Phenylethyl alcohol Pineoil Sandalwood oil Terpineol Vanillin Vetivert Ylang-ylang

PLASTICISERS Dibutyt phthalare Resorcinoldiacetate Triethylcitrate Urea

A TIANDBOOKOF COSMETICS PRESERVATIVES Formic acid Hexachlorophene Methyl chlorothymol Methyl para-hydroxy benzoate Ortho-phenyl phenol Para-chlorobenzoicacid Para-chlorometa-cresol

Benzalkonium chloride Benzethonium chloride Benzoicacid Benzylparahydroxy benzoate Butyl parahydroxybenzoate Acetyl pyridiniumchloride Cetyl trimethylammonium bromide Chlorobutanol Cinnamicaldehyde. Cresol Ethyl alcohol Ethyl parahvdroxy benzoate Formaldehyde

Androgen Arachidonicacid Estrogen Lanoleic acid Lanolenicacid

Propyl para-hydroxy benzoate Para-hydroxy benzoic acid Phenyl marcuric acetate Phenyl marcuric nitrate Salicylic acid Thiomersol

SKIN NOURSHING AGENTS Prednesolone Progestrin VitaminA VitaminD VitaminE SOLVENTS/VEHICLE

Acetone Amyl acetate Amyl alcohol Arachis oil Benzene Butyl acetate Butyl alcohol Butyl stearate Castor oil Coconut oil Dibutyl phthalate Diethyleneglycol monostearate Dioctyl adipate Ethyi acette Ethyl alcohol

Ethyl butyrate Gamma-valerolactone Glyceryl monolaurate Glycerol monostearate Isopropyl myristate Mustard seed oil Olive oil Peanut oil Polyethyleneglycol Propylene glycol Propylene glycol monom)fristate Tetrohydrofurfuryl alcohol Triethylene glycol Toluene Xylene

SI.TNSCREEN AGENTS Kaolin Linalyl ortho-arninobenzoate Magnesiumoxide Menthylcinnarnate

,dnliviray 2-Acetyl-3-bromoindazole Amyl salicl,late Benzyl acctophenone

rfir

ll

I\4()s l ()lrlttN USEDINGREDIENTSOF COSMETICS

llerrirI r irirurrrrirlc l l e r r rl I r r rl l r o i u n i nob e n zo a te f l r . r t r rI r r r l i c y l u t c I e l r t r r r r r t r tl l o t r a l e t r , l r r l r r . x c t r yolr t h o - a m i n o lrrtt:rnlc I lelrhtrrr I l t r l r r r r y I b u l a d i e ne I e rr r l r l i r r I lht I lrrr|,rr-irnrino benzoate I llhFl/nln(:clone I rihrrlroxy naphthonicacid .t { rlrlrvdroxybenzophenone I i l l rn c o l A - 1 0 0 0 I l l l t a q o ll l lillrelyl sirlicylate I lnrrrrrircnthylsalicylate llrlrt,lyl pnra-aminobenzoate

Menthyl salicylate Menthyl ortho-amino benzoate Methyl umelliferone Methyl esculetin Orth hydroxy biphenyl disulphonate Para amino benzoic acid Paradimethylamino benzoic acid Parahydroxy biphenyt disulphonate Phenyl ethyl ortho-amino benzoate Phenyl salicylate Sodium 2-naphthol-6,8-disulphonate Sodium 2-naphthol-3, 6-disulphonate Stilbene Talc Terpenyl ortho-aminobenzoate Umbelliferone

SUNTAN AGENTS/STAININGAGENTS I Mlllurxy psoralen Lawsone I Ftlroxy psoralen Erythrulose Itt hyrhoxy acetone Olive oil extractof cudbearand h€nna I rrplrrrrc Walnutiuice

STJSPENDING ,.{GENTS Guargum AP- r l t Hectorite { | F .ti l ul c s I{ydroxyethyl cellulose llerrtrrrritc Hydroxypropyl cellulose t nrlropol Methyl cellulose I tr lronlcr Micro crystallinecellulose t rrrllr)xymethyl cellulose Polyvinylalcohol l rllrrlosepowder Polyvinylpynolidone t olhridalsilicates Pectin t lroldorus Tragacanth I relntin Veegum Ar ilr ill

14'hitcbceswax ( rulrhrlliawax l'ruttntrbawax ('crrsin wax ( frokcrile wax {'etyl alcohol

237

WAXES Cetosterylalcohol Cocoabutter Lanolinanhydrous jelly Petroleum Paraffin wax Petrolatum

240

A HANDBOOK OF COSMETIC,S

5. What

are the advantages of compact powder over free flowins facc powders? what are the different types of binders that are used for riakinp compact face powders?

Aprh lV

241

MODEL QUESTIONS

l4 l.rxrk at the following formula of 'compactface powderr: Ingredients

Vo w/w

6. while manufacturing pgwders, why is perfume mixed along with thc adsorbent first?

Talc

32.0

7 - Zinc oxide with particle size 0.02 m is used as covering agent. commenr on this statement.

Kaolin

20.o

Precipitated chalk

25.O

8. Compare titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in terms of covering power a'd sun screeningaction.

Zinc oxide

l5. 0

9. A female with dry skin has a wound on left leg below the knee. Shc applied ralc on wound immediately availablein the house. Do you supporther action?Justify your answer. 10.Is covering power of a face powder affected by the degreeof oiliness or skin? IIow would you correlatethe two?

Iron'oxide

q. s.

Perfume

q. s.

Soap (binder)

8. 0

(il) Prepare a flow chart clearly indicating the procedure you would ' adopt to manufacturethis preparationby damp compressionin an industrialunit. (b) Changethe aboveformula to make it suitablefor a dry and rough skin full of minute scars. Justifv. lhby Powders ll

Why are colouring agentsand strong perfumesnot incorporatedin baby powders?

l fr

,lrrstilythe statement:Only sterilizedtalc should be used in baby powrl crs. ('urr the following formula be usedfor making baby powder?If yes/no, ;rrsli l ' y.

12. A personis sufferingfrom 'prickly hear' (strophulous)mainly distributecl on the face, neck and back. come up with a customizedformula of a preparationsuitablefor this condition. Justifyyour choiceof preparation/ formulation,ingredientsand the proportionsin which you plan io incorporate them.

ll

13.which of the follorving formulationswould be more appropriatefor a

woman with oily face or will either of them work equally well? Justify your answer.

Ingredients Talc

Ingredients

Formulation-l

Formwlation-2

Talc

6 3 .0g

20.0 g

Kaolin

20.0 g

20.0 g

5 .0 g

39.0g

Calcium carbonate (light) Zinc oxide

5 .0 g

Zinc stearate

5 .0 g

Magnesium carbonate

l .o g

Colour

O5

o

0.5 g

Perfume

O5

o

0.5 g

Calcium carbonate Zinc stearate Boric acid I-avender oil (lolour

15.0g

r6 5.0 g

Vo w/w

?0.0 25.O 4.0 0.3 0.7 0.5

Yrnr lrirvc beerr recently appointed as a 'Formulation Development Exhy Amcos Ltd., which targets at becoming a specialized -,ulrv('' lmrrrrllcturing firm for baby products within next 2 years. The company lr l)r()l)rlsrngat using the following formula for making a 'baby powder' I l l f,l ) nr i r l l ( ) n:


Ingredients Talc Starch Titanium dioxide Olive oil Iron oxide Perfume Propyl paraben Methyl paraben

Vo wrTp

A;rrlr lv

MODEL QUESTIONS

243

fr What is the role of lubricant and temperature while pouring lipstick

nrixturcin mould?

69.8 20.0 6.0 2.O 1.0 1.0 0.1 0.1

As a new experiencedenaant in the firm, give recommendations/suggestions on the currentproposedformula (with respectto choseningredients& proportions). If you find the existing formula appropriate,.lustify. If not, make necessarychangesand justify the same. Ch. 4

Lipstick/Coloured Make-up l. What is the role of waxy materialsin lipsticks? 2' what is the most important criterion to be kept in mind while preparing lipsticks?

3. can the baseingredientsusedin lipsticks have melting point in the range of 36-38oCor not? If yes/no,justify. 4' Among different waxes given below, write the order of mixine for preparing lipstick: white beeswax,candeilrawax, carnuaba wiu(, cJresin wax, cetylalcoholand cetostearylalcohol. 5. of 45_yearsage is using a new lipstick from past 3 days. On thw:mT 4"'day it startedcrumbling. Explain the probable,""roo . 6' what happensif an antioxidant is not used in formulation of ripstick? List some antioxidantsthat are used while formulating lipsticks. 7. As a pharmacistseeing the below given formula of lipstick what can be your reasoning?Correct the formula Lanolin anhydrous 10.0g Candelilla wax 9.0 g Castoroil 45.0g White beeswax 9'o g Ozokerite wax 10.0g Eosin 2.o g Lake colours l2.Og Halogenatedfl uoresceins 3.0 g

t)

Why the melting point of lipstick should be higher than drop point?

l 0 Write the differencesbetween lip salve and liquid lipstick. lftrw will you evaluatea lipstick after manufacturing? t) (a) How are 'colouredlipstick', 'liquid lipstick', 'transparent lipstick' and 'lip salve' similar to and diffcrent from each other with respectto their use/functionand type of pigmentVcoloursincorporated. (b) hovided to you are: Bromo acid, solvents of bromo acid (acetone,ethyl alcohol, citral, terpiniol, castor oil, oleyl alcohol), oil soluble pigment, alcoholsoluble dye, insoluble red pigment, titanium dioxide, carnuba wax, ethyl cellulose, lanolin, PEG (plasticizer),paraffin oil and lanolin il

For making a liquid lipstick, which ingredientswill you chooseand why? l l . Enumeratethe processyou would employ while formulating a lipstick 1 4 . Provided to you is the following formula:

Ingredients

7ow/w

Bromoaciddyes

20.0 10.0 40.0 10.0 10.0 2.0

Insolublepigmentsand lakes

q. s.

Perfume

q. s.

Polyoxyethyleneoleyl ether Oleyl alcohol Castoroil Candelillawax Carnubawax

(a) Mention the purposeof each ingredient in the above formula. (b) Can this formula be used for making 'lip salve'? If not, then make minimum changes in the formula to convert it into a lip salve preparation. Justify yoru answer. 15. Which type of rougeyou prefer mostly and why? l(r. In beeswax- borax type rougeswhat is the purposeof usinghygroscopic substances? ('h. 5

Skin Creams

l. What is the chemical basis of the bees wax-borax type of cleansing cream? 2 Why is all-purposecreamcalled as 'all-purpose'cream?Does it fulfil the requirements of all typesof creams?If yes/no,justify.

244


3. which types of creamsare usedfor nourishingthe skin? Discussdifferent

categories(along with examples)of ingredientsused while making these types of creams. 4. Differentiatebetweenthe followine: (a) Cold crbam and vanishing cre-am (b) Vanishing cream and foundation cream (c) Cleansingcream and massagecrearn 5. what are moisturizing rotions?How will you evaluatea -moisturizing lotion with respectto its functionsand physicar characteristics? 6' Design a cosmetic formulation meant to be used in the daytime for dry and scaly skin, full of minute scars. Justify your formulatitn. Give the compositionand use of individual ingredientsthat you choose. AIso,-r briefly explain the method of preparationof the s,ame. Skin allergy/sensitivity 7. Mrs. Kulkarni travers in the sun for at reast r hour daily. She started using a new handand body lotion. Nothing happened to her for the first 15 days, but from the l6th day she sta.teo deuetoping rashesonly on the exposedportions of her body. Give probablereasons for the same. 8. on applying preparationsmade of each of the below listed compounds, certain specific reactionswere observedon the skin as mentionedagainst eachcompound:

irl

lr

Compound A : Severe stinging immediately after application, which intensified till the first five minutes and then subsided after2o minutes. Compound B : Reddening and swelling after application only upon exposureof skin surfaceto the sunlight for l0 minutes. Compoundc : Reddeningand itching only after 14 days of conrinuous application. CompoundD : Reddeningand swelling after an hour of application. Name the category to which each of thesecompounds belongs. 9. Compound A has a very good sun_screening capacity, but produced rasheson skin (when incorporatedin a skin cream and applied) within 5 minutes of exposure to the sun. Nothing happened oo tfre covered regrons. Compound B is a dye, which (when incorporated in a lipstick) did not produce any reaction repeated application by women staying in_ -But _upon doors/outdoorson the first twenty days.on the twenty-first day,ioth group of women (staying indoors as well as outdoors) developed.t,.tiri, of the lips' upon discontinuingthe use, the lips regainedth"i, no.mul statewithin 2-3 d.ays. After a gap of on" when the lipstick was re-applied,chelitis occurred in all the women -ooth, on that dav itseli.

245

Alrlr lV MODELQUESTIONS ('lr. (r Sunscreen/suntanand Palliative Preparations I Why are blacksmore resistanttowardssunburnsthan whites?

,' Wlratis E-vitons/cm2. whereit is used? I lrxplain the useful and harmful effects of the ultraviolet radiation from a c(lsr)eticpoint of view. 'l l:xplain how zinc oxide may act as a sunscreen.In what other ways can il sunscreenact? I What shouldbe the El%g.1.- for an eff'ectivesunscreenlotion? (r llow will you evaluatethe functionaleffectiveness of a sunscreenlotion? / l)itferentiatebetweena sunscreenand a suntanlotion. ll. Suntanpreparationsshould contain sunscreenagents. Write whether this slatementis true or false with justification. 'lil producea minimal perceptibleerythemaon Prabha'sskin, exposureof l) 25.92 E-viton minutes/cm2of skin is necessary. The intensity of solar radiationis 3.6 E-viton/cm2of skin. How long an exposurewill produce perceptibleerythemaon her skin? l(l A fair illiterate male person who works as a coolie in road construction during the period of lst may to 7m may in Rajasthan observed skin tanning. He is drinking a preparation,which containsexEactof animagus. ' l'rom may 19thonwards,he startedusing a sunscreenfor 2 weeks,but no cf.fectwas found. What could be the reason/s& remedy? | | A male (35 yrs) living in Mumbai has sunburn. To get relief of irritation rtue to sunburn, he is using a lotion, which has the following formula. l)o you expecta good recovery?Justify your answer' Ingredients

Calamine Zinc oxide Camphor Zinc sulphocarbonate Mineral oil Glycerin Rosewater Methyl paraben

Vow/w

15.0 5.0 1.0 1.0 5.0 10.0 54.0 q.s.

Apdl-lv

246


'dispensingpharmacist',chooseone or more ingrcdienrcfrom this list to custom-make a preparation specifically for Mr. Ali. Incorporate any auxiliary ingredientson your own. Give justification of the ingredients chosenand also the proportion in which incorporated. 14. Following preparation was formulated as a 'palliative preparation' for sunburn:

12. Look at the followingformulation: Ingredients Sunscreenagent Nonionic surfactant Ethyleneglycol monostearate hopyleneglycol Dihydroxyacetone Water Perfume Preservative

Vowhv

r0.0 2.5 2.0 8.0 3.0 74.5 q.s. q.s.

Ingredients

Petroleumjelly Mineral oil Methyl salicylate Lanolin Sodium stearate Salicylic acid Purified water

What will happenift (a) there is no sunscreenagent in the above formulation? (b) the concentrationof dihydroxyacetoneexceeds5Vo? (c) the concentrarion of dihydroxyacetone is lT%oand pH is 2.5? 13.Mr. Ali (residentof saudi Arabia) has a very pale and sensitiveskin. He prefers to have a tannedcomplexion, but when'he goesout in the sun, he developspainful skin burns insteadof a healthytan. To do away with this problem, he visits a pharmacistwho dispenseshim the foliowing product: Ingredients

p-aminobenzoicacid Methyl cellulose Glycerol Ethyl alcohol Perfume Purified water

247

MODEL QUESTIONS

%ow/w

20.o 10.0 10.0 5.0 5.0 2.0 q.s.to lfi)

Would this formula be effective for the purposc?If yes, then justify. If no, then make changesand give reasonsfor the same. Ch.7

Hair

l. A woman of age 50 yrs has white hair on her scalp. A man of sameage also has white hair on his scalp but more whitening is seen. Why does it happcn so?

Vow/w

2. How hair respondsto external stimuli? 3. Why rednessof hair occurs. 4. What are the elementsin brown hair? 5. (a) How are skin, hair, and nails similar and how are they different

5.0 0.5 5.0 40.0 q.s. q.s.to 100

O) Upon which two factors does the length of hair depend? (c) What are the probablecausesof 'alopecia areata' (patchy baldness) (d) What effect will cuning, plucking and exposing the hair to ultraviolet radiation for long time respectively,have on hair and its growth cvcle?

He startsusing this 'sunscreenpreparation'beforesun exposure.Though the amountof tan producedis negligible,he does not developa painfirt skin burn and he is partially satisfied with the preparationuntil the l5th day after which he startsdevelopinga swellingand blisteringreaction on the sun exposedregions. (a) what are the probable reason/sfor this reacrion,which appearsfrom l5rh day onwards (b) Provided to you are: caramine, Ethyl p-aminobenzoate, Ethyl alcohol, Methyl p-hydroxy benzoate,Dihydroxyacetone, Ethyl p_dimetlyl amino_ benzoate,Zinc oxide, Methyl salicylateand Titanium dioxide. As a

6 What is greying of hair? What could be the probable reason(s) and remedy(ies)for the same? 7. Writc whetherthe given statementis true or false with justification. Hrir should be trimmed regularly because cutting the hair from the tips stimulatesa new anagenphase. ('h. 8-11 Hair CleansingPreparations L IIow will you test a shampoofor its eye irritation? Mention llrc stcgri"' brief. What is the significanceof carrying out this test?

lli

248


2. What are principle and secondarysurfactants in the shampoo prepara_

A l rrl r l V

tions? Explain their role in the formulation of liquid shampooswith examples.

3. Discussthe evaluationof the shampoos. 4' Designa shampooformurationfor red, scaly,irritablescalpskin. person is also been found to be sufferingfrom seborrhei.O"..nuitir."'G;;" formula,justify the use eachingredient. 5. Mention the main usesof surfactantsin hair cleansers. 6. A manufacturerusesthe following formula for making a .shampoo,. Ingredients

Vow/w

Sodium stearate

50.0 3.0 q.s. q.s.to 100

Sodiumchloride Perfume,colour and preservatlve Purified water

A woman using the above hair waving solution found her hair as lrccorning hard and cuticle becoming brittle. What might be the probable rc:rson'l Suggest the modifications in the above formula accordingly '

4 I)iscuss the microanatomy of the Hair Follicle. virrious phases involved in hair cycle. ('h. 13

Monoethanolamine Ammonium carbonate

Barium sulphide Zinc sulpbide Glycerine Polyethyleneglycol SodiumCMC Water Perfume Preservative

Borax Sodium/Potassium sulphate Glycol sulphate Water Perfume

3.25g 0.5 g 0.65g 89.35g q .s .

Quantiry 10.0g 10.0g 15.0g 2-5e 3.0g 9.5g q.s. q.s.

What happens: (a) if barium sulphidealone is replacedby strontiumsulphide? (b) if both barium sulphide and zinc sulphide are replacedby strontium sulphide? A cosmetologistplucked the hair of 40 yrs old lady by tweezers,where the pluckedhair is removedalong with hair bulbs. To avoid discomfort of pulling hair she applied benzocaine. After two days the female t:omplainedof infection at the site of hair removal (a) What is the name of procedurethe cosmetologistused (b) To prevent such infection what might may be given?

3 .0 g 4.25g

Hair Removers

Ingredients

Quantity

3.0 g

Describe, in short, the

| (iiven a formulation:

Ch. 12 Hair wavers, Curlers and Straighteners I Look at the following formula:

Triethanolamine

Why the pH of alkali solution of substituted mercaptan need to be rrririrrtained in between 9.2-9.5?

t Whlt is the best method to achieve cold waving and why? How the processing time can be prolonged?

Me'tion the purposeof eachingredientin the formulation. As a product developmentexecuti-ve--will you proceedwith this formurao, ,uoita yoo make some changes?If you decide to make change/s,accoiint for each addition/deretionof ingredientsor change in proportion/s. otherwise, justify the appropriateness of the currentlormula. 7' Formuratea 'Hair tonic' for alopecra areata. Justify your choice of ingredients and the proportions in which you pran to incorporate them. AIso, write the directionsfor using the same. 8' For sensitivitytestingof a hair dye containrngcoal tar colour, what will you do.

Ingredients

249

MOD E L QU E S TION S

l

Name the functionsof the main componentspresentin a Depilatory.

4 Mention the purposesof main ingredientsusbd in hair lacquers. ( 'h . 14 I

Shaving heparations

Why do shavingsoapscontain little amountof sodiunrsoap tlriln l)r,tl'. siurn soap? ilt rr'.rr,r! Mentionthe role of superfattingageiltsin shavingprepal:rlrorrr (.3AVa), concentration beyond(-50%,) rrrrrl,rt rrr' I' at a concentration

250

A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS concentration(5%).

Aryh lv

l. Iirllowing is the formula of a nail varnish:

Lotions uscd as after-shavepreparationscontain alcohol, emollient, antiseptic etc. If there is skin sensitivity with the lotion what should be the remedy for this? Theoretically 'Lather shaving cream' should corrode the razor blade edge more than the'brushless shavingcream', but practically,it is the other way around. Justify this statement.

Ingredients

Nitrocellulose Sulphonamide-formaldehyde resin Dibutyl phthalate Castoroil Ethyl acetate Butyl acetate Isopropyl alcohol Toluene Red iron oxide Bismuth oxychloride Titanium dioxide Bentonite27 Perfume

Why do some people prefer using 'aerosolshavingcrcam' even though it is more expensive than normaUconventionalshaving cream preparation dispensedin tubes? (a) 'ilfhat is an 'after-shavepowder? How is it similar to and different from 'body talcum powder'? (b) What properties should an after-shavepowder possess? Mention one ingredient (per property) that will help in achieving those desiredproperties. 7. Formulate an after-shavepreparation. Justify thc formula. 8. What are 'beard softeners'? When are they used?What do they contain as their main component/s? 9. Justify the statement:pre-shave preparationsfor wet shaving have an oppositeaction to that of pre-electricshavepreparations. Ch. 15 Nail 1. What is the difference betweeneponychiumand hyponychium? 2. An obese(becauseof thyroid problem) T.V. actressapplies nail varnishes twice daily, for 5 days in a week without any supplementationto nails. Her nails are brittle and hard. What are all the probablereasonsfor this and give at least two important suggestions. 3. A male dhobi who was always in contact with water, detergentshad red and swollen nails, which became rough, opaque and brittle afterwards. Name the infection and its origin. Also name the later stageof infection and statehow does it occur. 4. What is cuticle?How nail polish and nail lacquersimilar? Ch. 16 Nail Lacquers and Removers l. Justify the following: (a) l0OVoacetoneis not an ideal solvent for removing nail lacquers. (b) Castor oil is often used as a plasticizerin nail lacquers,but in conjunction with anotherplasticizer. 2. Acetonealone cannorremovecoatingsof nail varnish. Some additional ingredientsare also incorporatedin nail varnish removers. What are they and why do we incorporatethem?

25r

MODEL QUESTIONS

Vo w/w

18.0 6.5 3.0 1.5 r0.0 20.o 10.0 22.O 3.5 1.0 0.5 1.0 3.0

.

Nitrocelluloseis solublein ethyl acetateand butyl acetate. Make a flow chart, clearly indicating the procedure you would employ for preparing this nail varnish. Mention the order of addition, temperature or condition wherever applicable. 4, Justify the statement: Formulations of top coat (nail varnish) contain higher proportion of nitrocellulose and plasticizer, and lower proportion of resin. ('h. 17 Auxiliary Products for Nails l. The following preparationwas made with a view to treat brittle nails: Ingredients Glycerol Triethanolamine Perfume Purified water

Vow/w

r5.0 l1. 0 q.s. q.s. to lfi)

Can it be used for hearing brittle nails? Why (what effect will it have)? Formulate a preparationon your own to treat brinle nails. Justify. Enumcratethe differencesbetweenNail bleach and Nail white. 1 What is a 'fingernail-elongator'? 4 Your nails are dry and brittle and split very easily.

Which ol rlre following would you adoptto attainhealthynails?The right oprioncoul.l

-F 252

A HANDBooK oF cosMEt-r(,.\ be none, one or more than one. Give reason for either choosing arr option or rejecting an option. (a) Massaging your nails with a good brand cuticle remover once rn il week (b) Oral ingestion of 2.0 g of gelatin for one month (c) Keeping the nails clean by frequent washing with soap and water (d) Applying a fresh coat of nail varnish everyday after cleaning thc previous application with a nail remover. (e ) Soaking the nails in warm water followed by application of a nail cream before going to bed (once in a week) (0 Soaking the nails in 4Vo HCI solution (Conc. HCI in water) followed by application of a good quality nail white before going to sleep (once in a week) r'o) Oraf ingestion of 2.O g of PABA for one month

Ch. 18

Tooth and Oral Cavity

I. Teeth tend to develop: calculus, acquired pellicle, pla.que and caries. What is the order of occurrence of these on teeth? 2. Enumerate the measuresthat could be taken to conftoltaries. Ch. 19-20

ryrl .,l \

1. Enumerate the physicaVfunctional parameters that you would evaluate in the tooth powder.

Sorlium saccharine l'rrlil'icdwater

[ V l . l k r . r r r i n i mu m ch a n g e /si n th e a b o ve fo r m u l a to m a ke i tsta b l e .Wh a tts tlrc lrrttctionof each ingredient in the preparation? It l'rovrtlcd to you is the following formula: Ingredients Potash alum Alcohol Purified water

Ingredients

3. You own a cosmetic manufacturing unit. One of the products is toothpaste (net weight 50 grams). Make a draft of the label (including all necessary information) for the same.

Glycerol

4. How will you evaluate toothpaste after manufacturing?

Preservative

5. Name the functions of rnain ingredients present in a mouthwash.

Purified water

6. Comment on the statement: It is advisable to prevent the formation of tartar rather than to remove it afterwards. 7. Following represents a formula of toothpaste, with some stability problern/s:

Sodnrm lauryl sarcosinate Esser.rtialoils (peppernrint,clove and anise) Hydroxyethyl cellulose Zinc cirloride

2.0, 10"0 q.s.to 100

ICirsons.

Zinc phenolsulPhonate

Glycerol

0/ow/w

'mouth wash" 'asftingent Would you prefer using this preparation as a given the liberty to you were l,rtion'or both? Justify your choice' If ideal mouthwash an it make to rrrirke minimum changes in the formula your answer with Support changes? those ;rrt:paration, what would be

2. Enurnerate the differences between tooth powder and toothpaste.

Precipitated calcium carbonate

0. 4 0.25 0.05 q. s.t o 100

Sl:utuottsfluoride ( 'l r l o n r l b r m

l,txlk at the following formula of a mouth wash:

Dental Care Preparations

Ingredienrs

253

N 'l {)l )l i l . QTJ E S TION S

ohw/w

50.0 30.0 2.5 7.5 1."5 0.5

Menthol Alcohol

u/aw/w

3. 0 8. 0 0.05 15. 0 q. s. q.s.to 100

(a) To what type of customers will this product be targeted? ( b ) Wo u l d c o n su m e r sr e a d i l ya cce p tth e a b o ve co m p o si ti o n a sa m o u th and wash? If yes, justify. If no, then suggest some improvisations give reasons for the same. ( c ) G i v e . d i r e cti o n sfo r u se 'th a tyo u w o u l d i n cl u d e o n th e l a b e l o fth i s Product. (d) io which other category/ies of preparations can this formula belong? JustifY. Miserllaneous (HLB value-2'3) and R I You are provided with two emulsifying agents: A the two to obtain:r you mix (IILB value-7.4). In what proportion will ,c-ouisi"ieHLB value of 6-7'!

254

A HANDBOOKOFCOSMETICS

2. What are spansand tweensand what type of emulsionsthey make?Why? 3. What is silicone oil? Wherc is it employed and why? !: 4. What are the types of stability testing to which a finished product is

SUBJECTINDEX

subjected?

Aftrr'shavingpreparations,174 All purposecreams, 86 r'oltlpostion,86 Arrtrrlandruffshampoos,120 Arrlrscplicshampoos,120 Atrrrosphericoxidation for cold wavtng. 158 ,lrrriliary productsfor nails, 193 ('llssification, 193

5. Out of oleic acid, fquid paraffin and coconutoil which one is least likely to undergooxidation? Give reason/s.

6. Usually tocopherols are naturally present in fats and oils. Give the probablereason/sfor the same.

7. What will heating the water.to l20oC in a thin film and then instantaneously cooling it do? Will it demineralize the water? Enumerate the processesyou would employ for demineralizing water for making cosmeticpreparations. 8 . What are volatile silicones?Where are they used and why? 9 . What is the full form of ceftimide? What are its uses in cosmetic products? 1 0 . What is LIHST of water? What is its purpose? 1 1 . Suggesttwo meansby which a red toner is convertedinto a red lake. t2 . Siliconescan be presentin the form of volatilefree flowing liquids,higher boiling point viscousliquids, as well as resinoussemi- solids. Justify. 1 3 . Enumeratethe methodsthat can be employed for microbiological purification of water, meant for making cosmeticpreparations. t4. What are stearic acid and oleic acid? For what purpose/s are they employed in cosmetic products? 1 5 . Enumeratethe functions of ethyl alcohol and soft paraffin. 1 6 . What is ambientcondition testingof a productand what is its significance? r 7 .Enumerate4 categoriesof cosmetic productsfor which you would carry out skin sensitivity testing. 18. Write the applicationsof zinc oxide in different formulations. 19. How will you build quality into the final product? 20. Your firm has been provided with 100 conrainers(containing 10 kg each) of purified talc by a supplier. What would be the samplingtechnrque adopted by your 'quality assurancedept.' to minimize variability in results. 21. What is 'repeafedinsult test'? What are the limitations of 'prophetic patchtest' that the 'repeatinsult test' overcomes? 22. Give two examplesof eachof the following categoryof components.In which all cosmeticpreparations are they usedand what function do they perform in those specific preparation/s? (a) Quaternaryammonium compounds (b) Thioglycollates (c) Vegetableoils (d) Mineral hydrocolloids (e) Synthetic resins (f) Higher fatty acids

lleeswax-boraxcleansingcreams,63 gcncral manufacturing,64 htrnuth dyes, 134 llrxly powders, 34 gencralmanufacturing,35 hr rlliantines,142 typcs, 142 lttrd. 142 lrquid, 142 llrurno-mixtures, 43 flr ushlcssshaving creams, 172 ('lclnsing and cold creams, 62 cJraracteristics. 63 typcs,63 {'lrnr liquid shampoos,l17 ('rrld wave powders, 157 ('old waving procedures,156 lhccial methods, 158 ( 'olours, certified, 228 ('olours for lipsticks,44 ('orrrnon disordersof skin, 17 ('otrrpact face powders, 30 brrrdingagents,30 rrrctlrodsof preparation,30 ( 'orrlctics, I r 'l l s s i l 'i c a t i o n . 2 .3 tlclinition,224 ffnl)ort rules for 224 l:rlrcling& packing for,227 rules for, 225 rrrlrrulacturing :.rrlt'srules for,226 ( r r t r (l c r c m o v e r s ,1 9 4 ( 'utrtlc softeners.194

Dandruff, l8 Dental care preaprations,203 e va l u a ti o n ,2 1 4 liquid. 213 pastes,204 powdcrs,2l l so l i d ,2 1 3 Dental preparations,202 , . classification,202 Dental problems, 201 Dentifrices, 203 functions, 204 Depilatories, l6l characters,162 ingredients, 162 Disorders of the sebaceousand sweat glands, t8 Electrolysis for hair removal, 167 Epilatories, 166 Evaluation of dental care preparations,214 hair colourants, 140 hair grooming aids, 15l hair removers, 167 hair tonics, 127 hair wavers, 160 lipsticks, 58 mouth washes,222 nail lacquers, l9l p o w d e r s,3 T roughes, 60 shampoos,l2l shaving preparations,176 skin creams, 89 sunscreenpreparations,103 Face powders, 26 characters, 27 classification,27 general preparations,28 heavy type, 27 light type, 27 medium type,21

255

I

256 Foundation creams, 7l general manufactures.7l Foundation make-up. 73 Foundation and vanishirrgcreams, 67 Gel shampoos,I 18 Harr, 105 ailments,108 anatomy and structure, [06 functions, 107 Hair and hair follicles, 105 Harr bleaches,136 materials, 137 Hair care preparations,109 classification, 109 Hair cleansingpreparations,I l0 Hair colourants, 128 characteristics,128 classifications,128 evaluation,140 lighteners, 136 permanentcolorants, 132 Semipermanentcolorants, 130 temporary colorants, 129 Hair conditioners, 126 Hair creams, 146 Hair curlers, 152 Hair dye removers, 139 Hair grooming aids, l4l Classification, l4l evaluation, 151 Hair lacquers, 149 Hair lighteners, 136 materials, 137 Hair oils, 142 Hair reducing agents, 159 Hair removers, 164 evaluation, 167 Hair setting lotions, 144 Hair sprays, 149 Hair straighteners,152, 159 methods,159 Hair tonics, 122 compositions,122 evaluation, 127 materials, 123

A HANDBOOKOF COSMETICS l l l l l l ,\

Hair wavers, 152 ev alua t i o n , 1 6 0 Hair waving, principle, 152 Hand and body creams, 80 m at er ia l s , 8 l types,83 general manufacturing,83 Hot wave preparations,153 Ingredientsof cosmetics,230 Lacquersremovers, 190 characters,l90 Lead dyes, 134 Lipskin, 40 Lipsticks, 39 characters, 40 colours for, 44 composition, 4f evaluation,58 General preparation, 47 oils for, 42 waxes for, 4l Liquefying cleansingcreams,66 general manufacturing, 66 Liquid cream shampoos,l17 Liquid hair bleaihes, 138 Measuresfor healthy hair, 108 Mechanism of hair waving, 152 Metallic hair dyes, 134 Methods and preparationsof hair wav, ing, 153 Mouthwashes,216 antisepticsfor,2lj astnngentsfor, 218 characters, 216 colours, 220 composition,216 deodorizing agentsfor, 219 dry extracts for,2l9 evaluation,222 flavours for,2l9 surfactantsfor,219 sweetenersfor,220 vehicle for,220

t.

|

251

178 'r r , r l r {n y , , 179 "il)l)bsition, , 1 n rl.[ r e , I 7 9 I lprl Irlrhches,196 l J , , r lc r r $ m s ,1 9 3 l r r r l t l r S r d e r s ,1 8 0 'l 80 lrrrttltfness, r'tlcrls of systemicdisease,180 lrnllrrl or bacterialorigin, 180 I'olrortychia,180 |r.rrktrnychia,180 rrrrtrrlion.8l r N , r r lc r r : r m esl o l v e nts,1 8 5 N r r l l i r r 'q u e r s1, 8 2 188 I 't F l ) l r ( 'a t i o n , l l r r r r : r t 't e r s1,8 3 I r,rl,,rrr-s for, 187 r r r r n l x r s i t i o n1, 8 3 , r l r l r r r 'r r fl so r , 1 8 6 I e l , n l r r l r i o n 1, 9 1 filrrr lirrmersfor, 184 ' ptctrcr :rl preparation, 189 I pcru lcscentpigments for, 188 '1 x 'r l r r r r r c s1,8 8 r lrlrtslrt'izcr for, 187 r r r r r sI o r , 1 8 4

1 9r 7s, N r l l l r l r t 'r 1 1 , i 1 l 1 s ne w l r l c n c r s , 1 9 7 Nlrrl f . . /u' l t , t l r / ( 't sl r l r c o l d w a vi n g , l 5 ? 1 1 ,r r l r , r l r z r r rlgo t i o n s,1 5 8 p l r t ; r r t r ln t l t s s a g cr e e a m s,7 4 I r Il t| ( ) :.tl r oi l ,

75

, r r r e ;rr l r r r r r r r r l a ctu r i n7g6, I l t, I l tl ' l rrt l rp:,l i t:ks,42 I l r I 1l r;rl nl xxrs, Il 9

, r,,,rl ,tl torrl r;rrr col ot trants , 136 l t)t) 1,1,'au'tt' rtrrl ,rl 'Y . l {)t)

Palhativcprcparatrons, 98 Paste,trair bleacher,138 Permanenthair colourants, 132 Permanentwave solutions, 155 Pomeds,142 Powders, 24 evaluation,37 raw materials,24 Powder products, 26 Powder rouges, 40 preparation,4l Powder shampoos,l16 Protective mechanismof the skin, 9l Psoriasis,l8 Rouge, 50 anhydrouscream rouges, 54 powder rouges, 50 emulsionrouges,55 evaluation,60 liquid rouges, 57 Semi-permanenthair colourants, 130 Sh a m p o o s,1 1 0 additivesfor,1l4 antidandruff, 120 character, I I 1 composition,l1l classification, 115 evaluation, l2l gel shampoos,118 general manufacturing, 116 Iiquid shampoos, I 17 oil shampoos,l19 principal surfactants,1 12 secondarysurfactants,I 13 Shaving preparations,169 classificatron,169 evaluation, 176 for razor, 169 for electric shaving, 173 used before shaving, 169 Shavingcreams,hrushless,172 Shavingcreanls,acrosols.173 Shaving soaps,170

APPENDIX-IN

APPENDD(-W

Bibliography

Model Questions l. M.S. Balsam and E. Sagarin,Cosmetics: Scienceand Technologt, Wiley-Inter science,New York, USA. 2. l.B. Wilkinson, Harry's Cosmeticologt LeonardHill Book, London, IjK. 3. Rema Janardhanan,Introduction to Cosmetics,a B.Pharmacy Study Repo( B.I.T.S.,Pilani, Indi4

I TheS ki n I Nsnrc the skin surfacesthat are exemptedfrom the distributionof hair ftrllit'lcs.

lh

! llrw doesskin preventinfection?

4. J.S. Jellinek, Formation and Function of Cosmetics,Wiley-Inter science,New Yorlq USA.

I Shin is the largest organ. Justify by emphasizingthe functions it pctlirrms. that is producedby tyrosine(amino acid) in the skin. { NErncthe substance

5. W.A. Poucher,Modern Cosmetics,Vol. I, lI and III, B.I. Publications, New Delhi, India.

I frrrrun average5 foot, 58 kg humanof surfacearea1.58m2, what will be glandsapproximately? tlrc total numberof hair follicles and sebaceous

6. P.P. Sharm4 Cosmetics-Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality Control, VandanaPublications,Delhi, India.

6 lderrtifythe following conditions: (l) Scaly red patcheson the elbows, which bleed on removing the scales. (h) Flaking of stratumcorneumon scalpdue to microbialinfection.

7. Anne Young, Practical Cosmetic Science,Mills and Boon Ltd., London, UK. t. B.M. Mithal, A Tqtbook of ForensicPharmacy,Vallabh Prakashan, SU-221,Pitampur4New Delhi-l10034,India.

L5hrn continuallyreplacescells, removedby wear and abrasionwith new r elh, migratingupwardsfrom below. Then, how is it possiblethat the rrrkurrof an individual's skin remainsmore or lessconstantthroughout tlrc Iifetime? H Whut is strophulus/prickly heat? What is the reason for the lesions that rlrvekrp? u Whul is the difference between melanocytesand keratinocyteswith te\pectto their structure,function and location? Itl Whut are the changesthat occur in the skin due to aging? I I Mention and briefly explain the various disordersof the oil and sweat glnnds(presentin the skin). I lr. I

Powders and Compacts

i lincc powdershave optimum particlesize. Justify. =' Whnt are the typical characteristicsrequired in a face powder?Give a few cxiunplesof the raw materialsthat impart thesecharacteristics. t Which category of ingredients are added in powders for proper spread arrdlor proper adherencerespectively?Give examples. .l Wlrat is the basic differencebetween a 'loose' and a face powder?How are they similar?

23t

239

258

t( Hair l I

r I

r L

T

F F L

t_H H

Silverdyr ,5 Simulativepreparations, lO0 Skin anatomy& physiology,l2 apocrineglands,l7 appendages, l7 composition,I I dermis, 16 eccrinesweatglands,l7 epidermis,l3 functions, I I hair, 17 nutrients,19 nutritionand care,19 sebaceous glands,17 stratumcorneum,l3 stratumgerminativum,15 stratumgranulosum,15 stratumlucidum,15 stratumspinosum,15 subcutaneous tissue,16 thickness,14 Skin colourants,39 Skin creams,64 classihcation, 64 evaluation.89 Skin disorders,17 agingof skin, 18 cornmondisorders,l7 dandruff, 18 hyperpigmentation, 18 hypopigrnentation, l8 pigmenrarydisorders,18 psoriasis,l8 skin scalingdisorders,18 Solid creamshampoos, I l8 Specialmethodsfor cold waving, 158 Stainingpreparation,lOt Sunburnpreparations,92 classification. 92 evaluation,103

rl,

,( ) K

( ( ,.,i l t r tr i

Sunscrccn:lg(.nt\..) | characlcrs,()3 Sunscrccnirrdcx. l(X Sunscreenprcparations,9O, (f I protectrvemechlnisnr.9 | principle of cfl'ectivencss,()2 general manufacturing,9-5 Systemic suntan, 100 Temporary hair colourants, 129 Terminal hairs. 107 Tests for, see Evaluation

Tooth, 199 structure.199 Tooth pastes,204 abrasive& polishingmarerillstln 245 binding agentsfor, 207 I bleachesfor, 208 characters of,2M coloursfor, 208 detergents& foanningmaterials 206 flavoursfor,2O7 generalpreparation,209 humecrants for,207 ingredientsof,205 lubricantsfor. 208 preservatives for, 208 sweetening materials,207 Toothpowders,2ll composition, 212 generalpreparations, 212 Vanishingcreams,68 generalmanufacturing,69 Vellumshairs,107 Vegetable dyes"133 Waxesfor lipsricks,4l Wave set preparations,153 Wavesolutions, 157

( l

fit' ,f

i i r

F

I Esse n tia ls o f Ph ysica l P harmaci :uti cs -C V S S ubrahmanyam 1 T e xtb o o k o f Ph ysica l P harmaceuti cs -C V S S ubrahmanya4

6 Biopharmaceut ics and n".T3 [,.b:: f;H!'"nl,llT TE"rr,r* "

",

* AT /B o f Ph a r m a ce u ti cal Formul ati on -B M Mi thal o Co n tr o lle d Dr u g De livery-C oncepts and A dvances -V yas and K har I Ph a r h a ce u tica l En g ineeri ng -C V S S ubrahmanyamet.al . + Ph a r m a ce u tica l M icr obi ol ogy -N K Jai n r Ph a r m a c€ u tica l Bio te chnol ogy -S S K ori and MA H al kai t A Ha n d b o o k o f Co smeti cs -B M Mi thal and R N S aha r Disp e n sin g Ph a r m a cy -R M Mehta r A T e xtb o o k o f Pr o fe ssi onal P harmacy -N K l ai n and S N S harma r L a b . M a n u a l o f Ph ysical P harmacy -S ubrahmanyamand V asantharaj u * L a b M a n u a l o f Ph ysic al P harmaceuti cs -S ubrahmanyamand S etty r L a b lla n u a l o f Ph a r r laceuti cs -S ubrahmanyam,S etty & P rabhushankar r L a b M a n u a l o f In d u stri al P harmacy -S ubrahmanyam,S etty, Mutta & S w amy o L a b M a n u a l o f Ph a r ma E ngi neeri ng -S ubrahmanyam,S etty, K usumdevi& S uresh r Ph a r m a ce u tics- I - RM Mehta . Ph a r m a ce u tics- Il - RM Mehta I Ph a r m a ce u tica l Pr o d ucti on and Management -C V S S ubrahmanyam r Ph a r m a ce u tica l In d u stri al Management -R M Mehta r Dr u g Sto r e a n d Bu siness Management -R M Mehta t A Textbook of Forensic Pharmacy -BM Mithal r A Textbook of Forensic Pharmacy -NK Jain t Ph a r m a ce u tica l tu r ispudence -N K Jai n t M e d icin a l a n d Ph a r m aceuti cal C hemi stry -H S i ngh and V K K apoor t Ph a r m a ce u tica l Or g a ni c C hemi stry -N adendl a R ama R ao . o r g a n ic Ph a r m a ce u tical chemi stry (P c-u) -H S i ngh and V K K apoor + tr n o r g a n ic Ph a r m a ce uti cal chemi stry (P C -I) -P Gundu R ao t Ph a r m a ce u tica l Ch e mi stry-I -N C C haudhryand N K Gurbani r Pr a ctica l Ph a r m a ce u ti cal chemi stry (P C -I & II) -S i ngh and K apoor . Pharmaceutical Analysis-I -PC Kamboj r ,L a b o r a to r y Ha n d b o o k for Instrumental D rug A nal ysi s -B G N agavi t Bio ch e m lstr y - P Gu n du R ao r Eio ch e m istr y a n d Cli ni cal P athol ogy -P C D andi yaand P K S harma o Pharmaceutical Biochemistry -PK Sharma and PC Dandiya .' In tr o d u ctio n to Ph a rmacol ogy -P C D andi ya and S K K ul karni * Ha n d b o o k o f Exp e r imental P harmacol ogy -S K K ul karni Mathur r T e xtb o o k o f Ho sp ita l and C l i ni cal P hatmacy -D andi ya and Zafer & Zafer P harmacy -D andi ya, a n d C ommuni ty Ed u ca tlo n He a fth r I Elementary Human Anatomy and Physiology - Re g h u n a ndanan,Gopi nathanand R eghunandanan e Textbook of Pharmacognosy -SS Handa and VK Kapoor r Practiial Pharmacognosy -CK Kokate V ol -l : P harmacopP i as and Formul ari es +- Histo r y o f Ph a r m a cy i n tndi a,

-nllrishansingh

V:i:]; '"||#::;';:.:1,."X'*.,"' Vot-43 Mahadeva Lal Schroff

. A Professor Remembers -PC Dandiya

VAI.I.ABHPRAKASHAS{ AP -53AP i tampur:a D E LH I110034 Phone: 273L7755

rsB N 81-857 3r-22-5

e-mail : [email protected]

A Handbook of Cosmetics

Recommend Documents