1881 Vintage Pattern Selector Pg026 029 CMYK

CHAPTER 1: DRESSES

P.26

s  h   o  u   l    d    e  r   

 Prom dress:  1950s 

 d e r  u l d  s h o s  h   o  u   l    d    e  r   

UNDERCOLLARBACK cut1pair+fuse    e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

GARMENT SPEC

STYLE VARIATIONS

This dress has a fitted bodice and a box-pleated skirt. Suitable for medium-weight fabrics.

The collar can be cut in contrasting or matching fabric. Consider mounting the top

 d e r  u l d  s h o

s h  ho    u l  ld     e  d    r   r  

TOPCOLLARBACK cut1pair

   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

collar with a layer of lace or discarding the collar and decorating the neckline with a bow

 d e r  l d  u l  s h o

   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

s h  ho    u  ul    d  de    r  e r   

FACINGBACK cut1pair

    B      C

s h  ho    u  o   l  ld    e  d   r  e r   

    F      C

   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

BODICEFRONT cut1

    F      C

   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

BODICEBACK cut1pair     B      C

   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

    B      C

Front Front

Back

Sizes

S (in)

S (cm)

M (in)

M (cm)

L (in)

L (cm)

XL (in)

XL (cm)

Bust at armhole

331 ⁄ 4

84.4

353 ⁄ 16 16

89.4

373 ⁄ 16 16

94.4

391 ⁄ 8

99.4

Waist

263 ⁄ 8

67

2 83 ⁄ 8

72

305 ⁄ 16 16

77

325 ⁄ 16 16

82

Hem on seam

409 ⁄ 16 16

10 3

421 ⁄ 2

10 8

441 ⁄ 2

113

46 7 ⁄ 16 16

118

Shoulder

21 ⁄ 16 16

5 .2

23 ⁄ 16 16

5 .5

25 ⁄ 16 16

5 .8

23 ⁄ 8

6.1

CB length to hem

241 ⁄ 8

61.2

16 245 ⁄ 16

61.8

16 249 ⁄ 16

62 .4

16 2413 ⁄ 16

63

1

1

3

CB length to waistline

1

16 8 ⁄ 16

2 0.4

8 ⁄ 4

21

8 ⁄ 2

2 1.6

8  ⁄ 4

22.2

Back neck on seam

16 89 ⁄ 16

21.7

83 ⁄ 4

22 .3

9

2 2.9

91 ⁄ 4

23.5

Front neck on seam

1115 ⁄ 

30 4

123 ⁄ 

31

12 7 ⁄ 

31 6

12 11 ⁄ 

32.2

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   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

Back

TOPCOLLARFRONT cut1

    F      C

   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

   e    n     i     l    n     i    a    r    g

skirt for this style (pattern on page 70). Measure the waist of the bodice and cut

UNDERCOLLARFRONT cut1pair+fuse

    F      C

FACINGFRONT cut1

or embroidery. You could also cut a circl e

a circle skirt to match.

s h  ho    u  o   l  ld    e  d   r  r 

SKIRT cut1pair

P.27

CHAPTER 1: DRESSES

P.28

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

1

8

2

(1) Prepare the collar. With right sides facing,

and press the seam allowances open. Pleat

sew the shoulder seams and press the seam

the skirt section, making sure you follow the

allowances open. Repeat for the undercollar.

CB seam

pleat direction from the pattern piece. With

(2) Using a ¼in (6mm) seam allowance, sew

RS together, sew the waist seam and press

top collar

the top collar and undercollar with right

the seam allowances toward the neckline.

sides together. Turn the collar to the r ight

Miter the corners on the bodice and skirt

side, press, and set aside. (3) Prepare the

seam at CB to reduce bulk. Hem the skirt. undercollar

facing: With RS together, sew the shoulder

(9) Set the machine to its longest stitch and

seams and press the seam allowances open.

sew from CB neckline to zipper insertion

Neaten the lower edge with an overlock or

point. Return the machine stitch to the usual

a zigzag stitch. Set aside. (4) Sew the darts

stitch length, make a couple of backstitches

on the back bodice. (5) Sew the darts on

to reinforce the opening, and sew to hem.

the front bodice, then trim the darts (see

Press the seam allowances open. Insert a

page 160). (6) With right sides together, sew

concealed zipper (see page 176). Ensure the

the shoulder and side seams. (7) Press the seam allowances open. Finish the armholes

CF seam

(8) Sew the center front seam on the skirt

CB pleats are not caught as the zipper is 3

4

stitched. You will need to stop stitching at

with a bound facing (see page 169).

10

9

the waist seam, raise the machine foot, and move the pleats clear of the work. Lower the needle and begin sewing below the waist

collar

seam. When the zipper is in position, unpick the basting stitches to release the opening.

facing

PATTERN TIP

(10) Turn work to the right side and lay the

Do not over-press the pleats: steam

collar, with right sides uppermost, onto

gently and let the fullness fall through

the bodice. Lay the facing, with right sides

to the hem without constraining volume

together, on top of the collar and bodice,

with rigid pleating.

sandwiching the collar between the bodice

facing     h    c     t     i     t    s    g    n     i     t    s    a     b

SA up

and the facing. Pin in place, matching notches. (11) Sew through all layers around the front and back neckline edge, stopping at CB. Press the facing upward and understitch through the facing and seam allowances 5

6

only. Grade the seam allowances to reduce

7

11

bulk. Fold the facing into position, trim any excess, and hand-sew the facing edge to the zipper. press SA open

bind arm

understitch

handstitch facingedge

P.29