PRE-LICENSURE EXAMINATION FOR TEACHERS (LET) REFRESHER COURSE MAJORSHIP: HOME ECONOMICS Focus: CLOTHING (Selection, purchase, Care and Construction of clothes) LET Competencies: 1. Identify the principles involved in the proper selection, care and construction of clothes. 2. Choose style and color of clothes tastefully 3. Purchase clothes wisely. 4. Care for clothes judiciously. 5. Demonstrate the steps in constructing simple unisex garments using the unit method of construction. PART I: CONTENT UPDATE PROPER SELECTION OF CLOTHES The first step as being well-dressed is know yourself personality, figure, posture, shape of face, likes and dislikes and complexion. To have your good clothes sense required good taste in the selection of design and color. Good taste in dress depends on our understanding of line, proportion, color and other art principles. Lines are the most important factors in our design. When use correctly line can create a pleasing appearance. Line traces the shape of the garment. This outline known as silhouette, which is divided into two main classes: straight and tabular and full or bouffant with varying degrees in between. Straight silhouette gives an impression of slimness while full silhouette appears to add pounds to the figure. Within garment itself there are both structural lines formed by darts, hem, collars, cuffs, tucks, pleats. Decorative lines formed by buttons, pockets, bows, bands and trimmings. All lines either straight or curved. In general straight line gives an impression of dignity and stiffness. Whereas curved lines seem more informal and soft. If two lines are close together as in narrow and band or panel the eye goes up and down. However as the line farther apart as on wide panel the eye start moving back and forth, measuring the space and the vertical effect is lost. The fabric itself can have a much effect upon your figure just like the style of a dress. Anything bulky, tufty or coarse woven fabrics add width to the figure as it tends to emphasize the size of the wearer. CARE OF CLOTHING A well-groomed person gives her clothes the same careful attention she gives herself. As you learn to improve your appearance don’t spoil an attractive picture by neglecting to care for your clothing. Treat your clothes with respect. Hang clothes with hanger. Never hang a garment directly over a hook Keep all clothes well pressed. Spots and stains are much easier to remove when fresh. It should be treated before laundering because soap and water may set the spot. Spots made by substance containing sugar, egg, milk or mud are easily removed by water. Repair rips, tears and loose buttons before washing. Keep under clothing in good condition like straps of bra, length of slips. Wash girdle and bras and other elastic garment in cool water and mild suds. Avoid hanging them in sunlight. STYLE AND COLOR OF CLOTHES Keep in mind that you select your clothes style to achieve the effect you desire. If you are tall and slender, you have the ideal figure for wearing clothes. If you have a short thick neck wears the V-line, long narrow shirt collars and narrow shawl collars. Stay away from choker beads, high round neckline, or any round line. If your neck is long and thin, make sure of round wide design to carry eyes across. If you have rounded shoulder, choose style with fullness below the shoulder, set-in sleeve and short straightjacket. Avoid round collars, raglan or kimono sleeves and princess style. If you have a small bust, stand erect. Select clothes that add bulk above the waistline, such as full blouses, wide collars, shawl collar jabots and ruffles, horizontal tucks and double- breasted styles. Avoid snug-fitting bodice or sweater and strict, plain style. If you have thick waist and stomach, do not forget to stand very straight and wear a well fitting girdle. Choose gently full flared skirts. Draw the eye away from the waist with shoulder and neck interest. Avoid set in midriffs, princess style, very straight skirt and large print. If you have large hips wear a girdle with good firm support and choose clothes that draw the eye away from the hips. Wear V-neckline, yokes, big collars and wide neckline. Skirts with slight flare and easy fit will look better than straight, pleated or full skirt. Avoid any details like pockets or horizontal line at the hipline. If you have small hips and waist, bulkier but well fitted skirt help conceal thinness. Avoid stiff, plain fabric. Stand still and wall erect.
No matter how fine the fabric or how good the line of the dress it cannot be right unless color combination is becoming. White is considered becoming to most people regardless of skin coloring. Warm colors those containing red and yellow make an object seem to become closer because of this they make figure appear larger than actually is. Bright colors make the figure look pounds to the figure. The texture of the fabric affects the brightness of the color. Light color make the figure look large than dark colors. Any color containing blue is cool color and has opposite effects of warm colors. Light colors if contrasted with a darker mass attract the eye. Light colors make a person feel cooler because they reflect the light. Dark colors absorb light and make feel warmer. Color can also “create a mood”. Warm colors are full of life; cool colors seem quite and peaceful. Pastel shades tend to make you feel very feminine. Wear red or black for sophistication. General suggestions to help you combine colors Generally use subdued colors for large areas. Bright colors are more attractive in small amount Combining too many colors in one outfit result in confusion Be careful not to repeat an accent too many times. Ex. Red hats, red shoes, red purse, red scarf PURCHASE CLOTHES WISELY Plan your wardrobe at home (what type of dress to wear it or what’s the purpose of wearing) Buy only what plan to buy Buy clothes that can be worn harmoniously with your present wardrobe Consider upkeep when you buy clothes Learn to judge quality in garment Aim to perfect fit Observed shopping courtesies UNIT METHOD OF CONSTRUCTION Unit method of construction is an organize way of assembling a garment When the garment is cut, each piece is a unit Unit method of construction has the following advantages It takes less time to construct the garment There is less handling in each section of unit Markings are carefully matched to complete construction of each unit Most dresses have two main units- the bodice and skirt. The small unit dress front, dress back, front armhole/ facing, Back armhole/ facing front neck/ facings back neck facings STITCHING TECHNIQUES Stay stitching is done with the grain to prevent stretching of bias edges Ease stitching is used to control slight fullness in seam or in an area of the garment, which must be matched to a shorter seam or space Ex. Fullness in the sleeve cap, waistline to waistband Machine basting- temporary stitch done by machine to make it easier to fit the garment Machine stitching is a permanent stitching done by machine. Machine tension pressure from the presser foot and type of thread must be considered when adjusting the machine for permanent machine stitching Reinforcement stitching- should stitch about 15-20 stitches / inch. It is used corners and point that need reinforcement Machine topstitching. This is a decorative stitch done on the right side of the garment and at the same time serve a function of keeping seam flat Stitching in the ditch is an inconspicuous topstitching done the crevice of previously stitched seam. SUPPORT FABRIC Improve the appearance, serviceability and stability of clothing Interfacing- third layer of fabric cut the same shape as the garment piece to be interfaced and placed between the garment and the facing Underling- is cut exactly like the garment section and is stitched to the outer edges of the garment piece before construction begin Lining- an inner garment cut and assembled separately like the other garment To cut interfacing, lining and underlining It should be cut from the same piece and on the same grain line as the part to be interfaced Underlining and lining are cut on the same grain as the garment and from the garment pattern piece. Darts. Tucks, Pleats and Gathers provide fullness where it is needed for garment fitting, comfort and for decoration Dart- specific part of the garment where fabric is folded and stretched from a specified width and tapered to nothing at one or both ends. This is used to fit garments Tucks- fold/s of fabric at the seam line to provide relaxes but defined fullness. This is stitched on the right side of the garment as a decorative feature
Pleats- are folds of fabric of varying width that provide controlled fullness in a garment. They may hang free yoke line or a waistline seam or they may be stitched down for predetermined distance. Kinds of pleats box, inverted, knife Gathers- are used to distribute fullness when one garment sector is too long to be eased onto another section. This maybe used on gathered skits, full sleeves, yoke line SEAM AND EDGE FINISHES Seam is two or more edges of fabric held together by row of stitching Seam allowances are layered to eliminate excess bulk they are turned together in one direction such as in neck or collar seam To make curved seam allowances lie smooth and flat inside the finished garment they must be layered and clipped or notched Seam allowance of inside (concave) curves must be clipped while those of outside (convex) curves must be notched Under stitching is a row of machine stitching to the underside of the stitched seam to hold the seam allowance to the under fabric. There should be no stitching shown on the right side of the garment. Under stitching is used on such enclosed seam edge as collars, cuffs, front opening, and neckline facings Kinds of seams: Plain seam, flat-fell seam, lapped seam. Common edge finishes: Edge-stitched finish, turn and stitched finish, overcast edges. Pinked edge, machine zigzag COLLAR AND NECKLINE FINISHES The neckline area is often the most decorative part of the dress, blouse, shirt or jacket because it is close to the face and notice before other parts of the garment Neck edge may be finished with a facing, a binding or a collar. Fitted facing is the same shape and grain as the edge to be faced. It usually has a uniform width a 2 ½ to 3 inches. Bias facing is a strip of true bias with a width of inches. It is secured flat to the inside of the garment Bias binding enclosed raw edges by covering both right and wrong sides. The two kinds of bias binding are the single binding and the French binding Collars are described according to the shape at the neck and outer edge Collar with pointed or square corners, convertible and mandarin rounded- edge. Peter Pan Most collars are completed before attaching to the garment. An exception is the shawl collar Character of a well made collar Points, curved and patches are identical on both left and right of the garment The ends of the collar do not extend beyond the center front or back unless specified otherwise by the pattern The collar lies smoothly with none of the under collar shown on the right side To achieve this, cut under collar slightly smaller or manipulate in pinning to take deeper seam allowances on under collar Flat or Partial Roll Collar with curved front edge are called Peter Pan collar. The collar may be joined to the neck edge with either a fitted neck, facing or a bias facing. The stitching on the outer edge of the bias facing will he concealed by the collar Convertible collar is versatile in that it may be worn open or closed. In either position the collar roll up against the neck Mandarin collar is a variation of the convertible collar using only the stand of the collar. Tailored shirts often have collars may be attached to a separate band Shawl collar differ from attached collar because it is an extension of the garment front and not a separate piece. The garments fronts extend around the back of the neck and become the upper side of the collar. Interfacing is usually attached to the facing (upper collar) but may be attached to garment front for some fabrics. BUTTON HOLES AND FASTENERS Buttons and buttonholes serve both practical and decorative functions Buttons are available in variety of materials such as pearl, metal plastic, leather and wood Buttonholes are made of self-fabric or they are worked by hand or by machine Buttonholes are made usually on the true horizontal grain, but for decorative effects they may be in a vertical direction or on diagonal Button loops can replace buttonhole for distinctive covers Horizontal buttonholes extend 1/8 inch beyond the center line toward the opening. Allowing the center of the button to lie on the center line when the garment is closed Vertical buttonholes are suitable for use with small closely spaced buttons and location where there will be little strain. When buttonholes are used in a vertical band, they should be located on the exact center line parallel to the fold edge When locating buttonholes on the font of the garment, buttonholes should be placed in line with the fullest part of the bust to prevent the garment from gapping or pulling between the buttonholes
Hand-worked buttonholes are used when fine details of construction are ----. They are made after the garment is completed. The hand-worked buttonholes is usually fan-shaped at the end toward and the finished with a bar at the other end To locate the buttonhole positions, lap edges of garment opening and match center front or back markings A shrank is usually needed between the button and garment to provide space for the fabric thickness at the buttonhole when the garment is closed. The length of the shank should be equal to the thickness of the buttonhole.
FASTENERS Snaps and hook and eyes, serve to hold part of a garment securely in place without being seen when garment is worn. Snaps are used on part of the garment where there will be little strain on the closure while hook and eye are used in part of the garment subject to strain. Self-gripping fasteners used in place of hook and eye which consists of two layers. One covered with tiny, finely woven hooks and the other with looped tile. SLEEVES AND POCKETS The most commonly used sleeves in women’s and men’s apparel is the set-in sleeve. Kimono and raglan sleeves are often used variations Pockets are part of the garment design and may be both functional and decorative. Patch pockets, either lined or unlined are made of fashion fabric Inside pockets may be made or two pieces of fabric or maybe cut as an extension of the garment section. WAISTLINE TREATMENT Waistline stay is used to reinforce and stabilize the seam that joins the skirt to the bodice or acing in order to maintain good fit. Waistbands are made from straight strip of fabric with interfacing or backing added to provide body and prevent stretching. Fusible interfacing works well for stabilizing a waistband of knit fabric Skirts or pants without visible waistband are usually finishes with a fabric facing or grosgrain ribbon. Waistline easing provides the pull on and off piece of fabric that work well on knit garment ZIPPER AND SLEEVE PLACKET The three kinds of conventional zipper are those that open at one end. Those that close at both ends, those that open separate ate both ends Four types of zipper placket, lapped placket and the slot seam placket HEMS Lower edge of garment units usually are finished with hems The choice of hem finish depends on the fabric weight and its tendency to ravel, the depth of the hem, and the amount of fullness in the hem Hem finish could be done through stitching edge, seam binding, Hongkong finish Hemming stitches are blind or slip stitch , catch or herringbone lock or blanket stitch and overcastting PART II: 1.
ANALYZING TEST ITEMS
Line can create a pleasing appearance when using harmoniously. Which of the following statement is true about line? A. Within a garment there are structural and decorative lines B. Straight silhouette gives an impression of fullness and width C. Curve lines suggest dignity and stiffness D. If the line carry eye upward the figure appear wide Option B- is not the correct answer because straight, silhouette gives an impression of slimness Option C- is not the correct answer because it is the straight line that suggest dignity and stiffness Option D- is not also the right answer because if the line carry eye upward it gives an impression of length Option A- is the right answers because within a garment there are really structural line formed by darts, tucks, hem pleats, and decorative line formed by pocket, bands trimmings.
2.
Combining too many colors in an outfit results to confusion. It would be better to use only one color and accent it with another color. However repeating the accent many times results to displeasing effect. So, then which of this situation be avoided? A. Daisy wears dark blue skirt, light blue shirt, and printed blue scarf when she reported for a job interview B. When Juliana attended a beach party she wore printed green shorts, white t-shirts and green cap C. Monica attended a convention in one of the famous hotel. For the outfit she use gray slacks, pink sleeveless blouse and gray coat D. Marjorie’s favorite color is red. Oftentimes she is seen wearing red shoes, red hat, red dress and red suit. Option A- This is a good combination as its monochromatic color Option B- Wearing printed combined with plain is a good combination Option C- This shows the repetition of the accent
3.
There are many different permanent hand stitches. Each has different purpose. Some are used to hold garment pieces flat, to sew fabric pieces together, and to finish raw edges. Which of the following stitches serve the function of finishing raw edges? A. Back Stitch C. Hemming Stitch B. Blanket Stitch D. Overcast Stitch Option A- is not the right answer because backstitch is an embroidery stitch which is also used for sewing and mending seams. Option B- is not also right answer blanket stitch when done closely is used for making buttonholes and can also serve as hemming stitch Option C- Hemming stitch is used to attach edge to the garment Option D- This is the right answer because over cast is a hand sewing stitch used to finish raw edges to prevent it from raveling
4.
What A. B. C. D.
5.
Shawl collar differs from attached collars because it is an extension of the garment front and not a separate piece. In this kind of collar which became the underside of the finish color. A. Collar B. Extension of the garment front C. Facing D. Interfacing Option A-is not the correct answer because shawl collar is the name of the collar Option C-is not also the right answer because the facing when attached to the extended part of the garment becomes the topside of the collar. Option D-is not the correct answer because interfacing is attached in between the facing and extended part of the garment. Option B- is the right answer. It is the extended part of the garment that forms the underside of the garment. A garment has parts with curve lines like neckline and armhole for the upper part. To avoid stretching of the areas, what stitching technique will you use? A. Basting C. Machine Stitching B. Ease Stitching D. Stay Stitching Rousell sew a patch pocket on the shirt she made. It is important that this pocket be durably sewn for long lasting wear. She made double stitching and starting and ending stitches which called _________________. A. edge stitching C. stay stitching B. reinforcement stitching D. top stitching
6.
7.
is the importance of clipping the inside and cutting --- on the outside curve? Serve as reinforcement It binds the raw edges To keep curve areas flat and smooth Used to decorate garment Option A- This is not the correct answer because reinforcement stitches are used to secure thread in comer and points. Option B- is not also the correct answer because when binding is used to finish curve lines as in neckline and armhole there is no need or clipping and cutting notches. Option D- Clipping and cutting notches is never use to decorate garment as these are done in the raw edges Option C- is the right answer because clipping the curve open the curve when facing is folded at the wrong side while cutting notches will decrease the bulk of seams when facing is sewn at the wrong side. Both opening and reducing the bulk of seam will make the area flat and smooth
8.
9. 10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18. 19.
20.
21.
Interfacing is the third layer of fabric cut the same shape of garment piece to be interfaced. Where do you place this interfacing? A. Above the garment piece to be interfaced B. Between the garment piece and the facing C. Under the Facing D. Anywhere it is delivered Which of the following support fabric is cut and separately to the outer garment? A. Facing C. Lining B. Interfacing D. Underlining A dart is used to made garment fitted to the wearer. What is the right description of a dart? A. it is tapered at one or both end B. it is tapered at one end only C. it is sewn straight from start to end D. it is only done at the upper part garment A tuck is fold fabric, it provide relaxed but defined fullness. At what side of the garment is stitched to have a decorative feature? A. Both sides C. Right side B. Left side D. Wrong Side The seam allowance of inside curve must be clipped while those curves must be._________. A. Cut C. Reduced B. Notched D. Trimmed Neck edges maybe finished with facing binding or a collar. Which of the following describes a bias binding? A. It encloses raw edge of the neckline by covering both right and wrong sides B. It is a strip of true bias, which is secured flat to the inside of the garment C. It is the same shape and grain or the edge of the faced D. It is cut taking the exact shape of the collar Mandarin collar is a variation of the convertible collars in the sense that _________. A. It is called Chinese Collar B. It was only the stand of the collar C. It may be worn open or close D. It is attached separately from the collar Considering the location of buttonholes. How will you know it is women’s garment? A. Buttonholes are on the right side of the front of the garment. B. Buttonholes are usually on the true horizontal grains C. Buttonholes are usually on the left side of the front piece of the garment. D. It can be done in any piece of the garment. Treating clothes with respect is a way of taking good care of the clothing. The following shows good practices which is not? A. Hang clothes straight to a cloth hanger B. Put it carefully on a chair C. Never hang a garment directly over a nail D. Use skirt hanger for a trouser. Which a part of the garment gets soil marks that has to be treated by wetting, sprinkling with detergent and rubbing. A. hemline and waistband c. Neck and cuff B. Buttons and buttonholes d. Sleeves and armhole Often a dress or shirts rips out and has to be repaired by re-stitching. Which part of the garment oftenly ripped? A. Armhole b. Collar c. Neckline d. Sleeve The first step in being well dressed is “know yourself” This means __________. A. determine personality type B. express your likes and dislikes C. Know your figure type D. Be influence by fashion Choose your answer here A. A,B,D B. B,C,D C. A,B,C A,C,D Selecting clothes style achieves the effect you desire. So if you have small hips and waist, which could be the best for you? A. A Tight belt for a dress C. Skirt soft and dainty Fabric B. A Strictly plain fabric shirt D. Bulkier but well- fitted skirt Red and Green are complimentary colors but this does not mean just putting green and red together and have pleasing combination. Which of the following situation makes a good application? A. green slacks and blood red shirts B. Forest green suit and coral pink blouse
22.
23. 24.
25.
C. Red dress and green jacket D. Green dress and red suit Colors can play tricks just like line that can create illusion thus you see you have a large hips which is fitted to wear? A. light gray skirt C. Dark blue skirt B. Plaided Skirt D. Dark colored whole dress On a warm summer day which garment is comfortable to wear? A. Purple coordinates C. Light red blouse and skirt B. Yellow corporate terno D. Orange slacks and shirt RTW is very much available in the market. The following are characteristics of a quality garment except ____________. A. Garment is cut on grain B. Plaid and stripes are attached at the seam line C. Fasteners neatly stitched D. Hemming stitches are conspicuous If you are tall and slender, what sleeve of garment will you choose? A. Kimono C. Set-in B. Raglan D. Any of the three
PART III: ENHANCING TEST TAKING SKILLS Direction: Write the Letter of the correct answer on the blank before the number 1. Sewing machines commonly used for home sewing have two threads the bobbin thread and the spool thread. The spool thread goes through A. Balance wheel, thread guide, upper tension, needle B. Thread guides, upper tension, thread take up lever, thread guides needle C. Thread guides, upper tension, thread take up lever, needle D. Stitch regulator, upper tension, thread take up lever, thread guides, needle 2. A perfect stitch is formed when the needle and bobbin threads lock between two layers of fabric, which means A. upper stitches are loose B. upper stitches are tight C. upper and underside stitches are tight D. upper and underside stitches lies straight on the fabric 3. Much of the success in garment construction depends on accurate measurement. The following are good practices in taking body measurement except A. A cord or tape should be fastened around the waist B. Body measurement should be tight because there are allowances to be added C. Record all measurement taken D. Determine the required amount of ease 4. A well-groomed person gives her clothes the same attention she gives to herself; thereby care for clothing should not be neglected. Which of the following does otherwise? A. Hang garment directly over a hook B. Use skirt hanger for skirt C. Keep all clothes well pressed D. Launder soiled socks in mild soap and warm water 5. There’s nothing that gives you more confidence than the knowledge that you are attractively and appropriately dressed. The following are things that will help you have a good clothes sense except ___________. A. Know your personality C. Be familiar of what friends wear B. Consider the shape of your face D. Keep figure in mind 6. A cotton fabric is a good choice for beginner to handle in her first sewing lesson. The following are examples of it except __________. A. Denim B. Organdy C. Nylon D. Poplin 7. There are two kinds of facing the fitted facing and the bias facing used in finishing the neckline of a garment. How should you cut bias facing? A. Cut true bias by folding fabric diagonally B. Cut along horizontal fold C. Cut strip along vertical fold D. Cut true bias by folding fabric along parallel lines 8. In making pattern for skirt on one –forth of the body measurement is used plus the needed allowance for ease. Thus if the breast measurement is 33 inches the measurement used for making the front pattern is _________inches A. 8 ¼ B. 8 ¾ C. 9 ½ D. 9 ¾ 9. Collars are described according to the shape at the neck and outer edges. Collars described below have pointed or square corners except ________________ collar. A. Convertible B. marine C. peter pan D. sports 10. Buttons and buttonholes serve both practical and decorative functions. What is the placement of the buttonholes for women’s garment?
11.
12.
13.
14. 15.
16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
A. right side of the front garment B. left side of the front garment C. Both sides of the front garment D. Any side of front garment A cotton fabric should be pre-shrink before cutting to avoid shrinking or change in shape after garment finished. After shrinking the grain should be straighten. The following are ways of straightening grain which is not ___________? A. Pull a thread and cut across the fabric along crosswise grain B. Cut a slit on the selvage and tear the fabric C. Iron the fabric after drying D. Stretch fabric towards shorten edge Wenny wanted to have a puff sleeve for her dress. What is used to distribute the fullness in this kind of sleeve? A. Dart B. Gathers C. Pleats D. Tucks If you are asked to make baby dress what collar will you use? A. Convertible collar B. Chinese collar C. Peter pan collar D. Turtle neck collar Which of the following sleeve is cut with the bodice? A. Kimono Sleeve C. Raglan Sleeve B. Puff Sleeve D. Set-in Sleeve Which of the following stitches used to secure stitches and at the same time becomes a decorative stitch? A. overstitching C. topstitching B. Staystitching D. understitching Which of the following width measurement of fabric considered double width? A. 36” C. 60” B. 45” D. 72 What seam is used for maong pants that makes all edges secured and flat? A. Flat felt seam C. lapped seam B. French Seam D. Plain Seam Which is the last of the sewing procedure in making skirt? A. Attaching pockets C. Attaching zipper B. Attaching waistband D. Attaching fastener What kind of pocket is used for side pocket? A. in seam C. patch B. lapped D. welt Which of the following measurement is not used in making pant? A. breast measurement B. hips measurement C. rise measurement D. waist measurement How do you measure rise in taking pants measurement? A. Take measurement from the waist down to the desired length B. Take measurement around the fullest part of the second hips C. Take measurement from waist to the knee D. Take measurement from the waist down to the crotch The following are kind of hemming stitches except _________stitch. A. Blanket B. Cross C. Herring bone D. Slip What stitch do you use in making buttonholes? A. Blanket stitch B. Blind stitch C. Long and short stitch D. Satin stitch Which of the following color makes you feel feminine? A. blue B. orange C. pink D. violet What do call controlled fullness of garment?
A. Dart B. Gathers
C. Pleats D. Tucks
