The Pyro Handbook
Contents:
1.0 Intro 2.0 Safety 2.1-know what your handling -incopatable materials -chemical notes -how to mix ingredients
-tools 3.0 Explosive theory 3.1 explosive classifications 4.0 Chemical equiv. lists 5.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION 5.1-links 5.2-books 6.0 Chemical preparation and sources 6.1 Ammonium chloride 6.2 Ammonium nitrate 6.3 Ammonium perchlorate 6.4 Barium carbonate 6.5 Barium chlorate 6.6 Barium nitrate 6.7 Barium sulfate 6.8 Boric acid 6.9 Calcium sulphate 6.10 Dextrin 6.11 Ethanol 6.12 Iron 6.13 Iron oxide (red) 6.14 Lead tetraoxide 6.15 Manganese dioxide 6.16 Magnalium 6.17 Magnesium
6.18 Methanol 6.19 Parlon 6.20 Potassium benzoate 6.21 Potassium chlorate 6.22 Potassium dichromate 6.23 Potassium perchlorate 6.24 Potassium Picrate 6.25 Polyvinyl chloride 6.26 PICRIC ACID 6.27 Red gum 6.28 Sodium benzoate 6.29 Sodium chlorate 6.30 Sodium nitrate 6.31 Sodium perchlorate 6.32 Strontium carbonate 6.33 Strontium nitrate 6.34 Strontium sulfate 6.35 Sulfuric acid 6.36 Zinc 6.37 Zinc oxide 6.38 acetylene 6.39 calcium carbide 6.40 Perchlorates 6.40-1 aluminum perchlorate 6.40-2 ammonium perchlorate
6.40-3 barium perchlorate 6.40-4 cadmium perchlorate 6.40-5 calcium perchlorate 6.40-6 cobalt perchlorate 6.40-7 copper perchlorate 6.40-8 hydrazine diperchlorate 6.40-9 iron perchlorate 6.40-10 lead perchlorate 6.40-11 lithium perchlorate 6.40-12 magnesium perchlorate 6.40-13 manganese perchlorate 6.40-14 mercury perchlorate 6.40-16 nickel perchlorate 6.40-17 nitryl perchlorate 6.40-18 potassium perchlorate 6.40-19 silver perchlorate 6.40-20 sodium perchlorate 6.40-21 strontium perchlorate 6.40-22 titanium tetraperchlorate 6.40-23 uranyl perchlorate 6.40-24 zinc perchlorate 7.0 Low-order explosives 7.1 Acetone Peroxide 7.2 Nitrogen Triiodide(touch explosives) 7.3 FLASH POWDER
7.4 BLACK POWDER 7.5 yellow powder 7.6 NITROCELLULOSE 7.7 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES 7.8 PERCHLORATES 8.0 High-order explosives 8.1 Simple Plastique Explosives 8.2 Lead Azide 8.3 Lead Styphnate 8.4 Mercury Fulminate 8.5 Tetracene 8.6 AMATOL 8.7 PETN 8.8 RDX 8.9 COMPOSITION C-1 8.10 COMPOSITION C-2 8.11 COMPOSITION C-3 8.12 COMPOSITION C-4 8.13 Ammonium Picrate 8.14 HMX 8.15 Nitrated Petroleum 8.16 Nitrogen Trichloride 8.17 Tetryl 8.18 Trinitrobenzene 8.19 Trinitrotoluene(TNT)
8.20 Silver Fulminate 8.21 ANFO 8.22 DNPA 8.23 Nitroguanidine 8.24 Astrolite 8.25 Dinitrochlorobenzene 8.26 HMTD 8.27 HNIW 8.28 HNO 8.29 IPN 8.30 MEDINA 8.31 MMAN 8.32 NPN 8.33 PVN 8.34 TeNN 8.35 TNPEN 8.36 TNPht 8.37 Tetranitromethane 8.38 CH-6 8.39 Composition A-5 8.40 COMPOSITION A-3 8.41 COMPOSITION B 8.42 PBXN-5 8.43 MEKP 8.44 Nitrourea
8.45 Tetranitronapthalene 9.0 Bombs 9.1 C02 bomb 9.2 Cherry Bomb 9.3 Dry Ice Bomb 9.4 Sparkler Bomb 9.5 Tennis ball bomb 9.6 Mail Box Bomb 9.7 Cheap Smoke Bomb 9.8 Calcium Carbide Bomb 9.9 Firebombs(Molotov cocktail) 9.10 Generic Bomb 9.11 Picallo bomb(bottle salute) 9.12 THERMITE BOMB 9.13 soda bottle bomb 10.0 Pyrotechnics 10.1 Pyrotechnic compositions and formulas 10.1-1 Smoke formulas 10.1-2 Colored Flame formaulas and torches 10.1-3 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY 10.1-4 Rocket propellants 10.1-5 colored star compositions 10.1-6 smoke star compositions 10.1-7 flash charges 10.1-8 burst charges
10.1-9 whistle mixtures 10.1-10 priming compositions 10.1-11 Other compositions 10.1-12 Sparkler compositions 10.2 FIRECRACKERS 10.2-1 salutes 10.2-2 Bum Style salute 10.2-3 Making tubes and end plugs 10.2-4 Impact Salute 10.3 Rockets 10.3-1 Making Rockets 10.3-2 SKYROCKETS 10.4 ROMAN CANDLES 10.5 22 cal. noisemakers 10.6 Class C Aerial Salute 10.7 Go Getters 10.8 Yogart Mine 10.9 Mine Bag 10.10 Making Cut Stars 10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls 10.12 strobe pots 10.13 Aerial Shells 11.0 Fun with fire 11.1-0 Napalm 11.1-1 military napalm
11.1-2 Jolly Rodger’s napalm 11.1-3 Napalm II 11.2 Flame throwers 11.3 thermite 11.4 breathing fire 11.5 fire balls 11.5-1 special effect fire balls 11.5-2 petrol fire ball 11.5-3 fire ball from hydrogen 11.5-4 fire ball from butane 11.5-5 fire ball from propane 11.5-6 Naphthalene Charges 11.5-7 CREMORA FIREBALLS 11.6 Greek fire 11.7 Other Incendiaries 11.8 “Negetive-X” 11.9 how to make alcohol 11.10 Plaster Incendiary 11.11 Flash Paper 12.0 fuses, delays, and timers 12.1 FUSE IGNITION 12.1-1 Visco cannon fuse 12.1-2 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE 12.1-3 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE 12.1-4 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE
12.1-5 Quickmatch fuse 12.1-6 The Nichrome/Fuse Igniter 12.1-7 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK 12.1-8 Connecting fuses together 12.2 IMPACT IGNITION 12.2-1 Blasting Cap Impact Igniter 12.2-2 MAGICUBE IGNITOR 12.3 ELECTRICAL IGNITION 12.3-1 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION 12.3-2 Mercury Switches 12.3-3 Radio Control Detonators 12.4 Detonators and boosters 12.5 Firing systems 12.6 DELAYS 12.6-1 Cigarette Delays 12.6-2 TIMER DELAYS 12.6-3 CHEMICAL DELAYS 13.0 Projectiles 13.1 Polish cannon 13.2 BASIC PIPE CANNON 13.3 Rocket launcher 13.4 potato guns 13.5 MODEL ROCKETS 13.6 Home-brew blast cannon 14.0 The End.
1.0 Intro
It is assumed by the author that you would not actually use this information as a guide for new activities. If you don’t know what you are doing, you could make a mistake and DIE. Some of the procedures are general ways of making a specific devise or chemical composition, and lack the exact details that inexperienced people need to safely make a desired material. Also, there may be one or two references to terrorists and procedures that they may use in a few sections; I HATE terrorists, and do not in any way promote terrorism! (I just didn’t feel like to go through the entire book and delete every sentence containing the word “terrorist”.) If you are wanting to carry out a death wish, and are going to attempt some of these procedures, then READ THE SAFETY SECTION FIRST(if you want a better chance of living)! Don’t be a dumb-ass, and do it near people or houses, and hurt someone and/or yourself! Don’t be a “Kewl”.
-The Author
2.0 SAFETY--HOW NOT TO GET KILLED (READ THIS!)
It is obvious that injury or death should be avoided at all costs. While no safety device is 100% reliable, it is usually better to err on the side of caution.
Never smoke anywhere near chemicals or compositions. Be sure you are familiar with all the properties of the compositions you work with. Thoroughly test new compositions for sensitivity, stability, compatibility with other mixtures etc, until you are absolutely sure that the mixture is ok to use in your application and method of construction. Find out as much as you can about other peoples experiences with a particular mixture. Use only non-sparking tools. Make your tools from either: wood, paper, aluminum, lead or brass. Other metals and materials may spark (especially steel). Paper bags or wooden containers are good to use for storing mixed compositions. Store compositions dry and cool. Avoid plastics, glass and metal. Avoid storing compositions in general. Make as much as you will need in the near future and keep no more in stock than necessary. Never have large amounts of composition near you. If you must use larger amounts of composition in multiple items, store the bulk of composition in a safe place and bring only small amounts to your working place. Finished items should also be brought to a safe place immediately. Prevent contamination of chemicals and mixtures. Have separate tools for every type of mixture (i.e. black powder-like mixtures, chlorates, perchlorates, etc) and clean them well with hot water and/or alcohol after use. It is no luxury either to have different sets of clothing for working with different mixtures. Wash them every time after use (dust collects in the clothing). If you have the possibility, have separate rooms or better yet: separate buildings for working with different types of mixtures/chemicals. Keep a clean working place. Fine dust easily spreads all over your working place. Keep chemicals in closed cabinets or in a separate building. Mixtures should not be kept in the working place anyway (see rules 4 and 5). Provide adequate ventilation. This is especially important when working with volatile solvents or (poisonous, flammable) powdered chemicals. Not only can you get yourself poisoned, vapor or dust may also ignite. Be aware of static electricity buildup. Ground your working table. Monitor humidity and keep it above 60% as a rule of thumb. This can be especially important in winter when preparing for new years eve (on the Northern Hemisphere at least). Touch a grounded surface before you place things on it. Touch other people before handing over compositions or finished items. Wear cotton clothing, avoid synthetics (do not be tempted to wear fleece clothing if your working place is cold in winter). Simple things such as unscrewing a (plastic) bottle, unwinding some tape or even moving your arm may accumulate enough charge on your body to ignite a sensitive composition. The risk of static electricity is often underestimated or even completely ignored by beginning amateurs in pyro, while it is actually one of the major causes of accidents in both commercial/industrial and amateur pyro setups. Wear proper protective clothing. A face shield, dust mask, heavy gloves and a leather apron are minimal. Wear cotton clothing. Hearing protection can be good but it also makes it harder to hear other people's warnings.
Provide safety screens between you and compositions, especially when pressing, ramming, sieving or in other ways causing frictions/shocks/pressure etc. Be prepared for the worst. Have a plan for when something should go wrong. Have a fire extinguisher and plenty of water ready. Think beforehand of what might happen and how you could minimize the damage. Know how to treat burns. Inform someone else so he/she can help in case of an accident. Have a fast escape route from your working place. Test a device well before showing it to an audience. Inform any audience well of what can happen.
2.1-Know What You're Handling:
[This is a publication of the Western New York Pyrotechnic Association. It may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission or compensation providing:]
[Editors note: I have received several letters offering comments and/or corrections on this document. Since I am not the author of the document, and do not have the expertise to judge these comments, I have put them as received on another page] 1) credit is given to the Western New York Pyrotechnic Association 2) it is distributed free. If you plan to make a buck on it, we want a piece of it!! We believe that the information contained herein is true and correct, however it is offered only as a guide and not to be used as a guarantee. We cannot assume responsibility nor liability for the use or misuse of the information contained herein. The following is a compilation of information gathered over the years from various research and sources too numerous to remember.
Within these pages you will find descriptions of almost 150 chemicals that are used in Fireworks, Explosives, Rocket Fuels or are explosives in themselves. This list is not complete and is not intended to be complete. All of the uses are not given and only the related purposes of each are stated.
Whenever possible we explain which grades are thought to be the best, the chemical formula, melting temperature, decomposition temperature, form (liquid, powder, crystal, etc.), if it will explode, if it is poisonous and its usage. Some of these chemicals cannot be purchased and are offered as a guide for information purposes only.
CHEMICALS HAVE A CERTAIN PURPOSE TO PERFORM IN FIREWORKS AND CAN BE CLASSIFIED INTO FOUR GROUPS:
GROUP I. These chemicals are the chemicals which produce the oxygen and are called oxidizers.
GROUP II. Those which combine with the oxidizers are called reducers.
GROUP III. These are the chemicals which regulate the rate of burning and help to produce the desired effect.
GROUP IV. This group of chemicals are those which impart color to the flame. PLEASE NOTE: ALL REFERENCES TO TEMPERATURE ARE IN DEGREES FARENHEIT.
SAFETY INCOMPATIBLE MATERIALS:
Certain combinations of chemicals are remarkable explosive, poisonous or hazardous in some other way, and these are generally avoided as a matter of course. There are many others that are perhaps equally dangerous but do not come to mind as readily. The following list, although not complete, may serve as a memory refresher. Stop and think for a moment before starting any work, especially if one hazardous chemical is involved.
DO NOT CONTACT:
Alkali metals, such as calcium, potassium and sodium with water, carbon dioxide, carbon tetrachloride, and other chlorinated hydrocarbons. Acetic Acid with chromic acid, nitric acid, hydroxyl-containing compounds, ethylene glycol, perchloric acid, peroxides and permanganates.
Acetone with concentrated sulfuric and nitric acid mixtures.
Ammonia, Anhydrous with mercury, halogens, calcium hypochlorite or hydrogen fluoride.
Ammonium Nitrate with acids, metal powders, flammable fluids, chlorates, nitrates, sulphur and finely divided organics or other combustibles.
Aniline with nitric acid, hydrogen peroxide or other strong oxidizing agents.
Bromine with ammonia, acetylene, butadiene, butane, hydrogen, sodium carbide, turpentine or finely divided metals.
Chlorates with ammonium salts, acids, metal powders, sulfur, carbon, finely divided organics or other combustibles.
Chromic Acid with acetic acid, naphthalene, camphor, alcohol, glycerine, turpentine and other flammable liquids.
Chlorine with ammonia, acetylene, butadiene, benzene and other petroleum fractions, hydrogen, sodium carbides, turpentine and finely divided powdered metals.
Cyanides with acids.
Hydrogen Peroxide with copper, chromium, iron, most metals or their respective salts, flammable fluids and other combustible materials, aniline and nitromethane.
Hydrogen Sulfide with nitric acid, oxidizing gases.
Hydrocarbons, generally, with fluorine, chlorine, bromine, chromic acid or sodium peroxide.
Iodine with acetylene or ammonia
Mercury with acetylene, fulminic acid, hydrogen.
Nitric acid with acetic, chromic and hydrocyanic acids, aniline, carbon, hydrogen sulfide, flammable fluids or gases and substances which are readily nitrated.
Oxygen with oils, grease, hydrogen, flammable liquids, solids and gases.
Oxalic Acid with silver or mercury.
Perchloric Acid with acetic anhydride, bismuth and its alloys, alcohol, paper, wood and other organic materials.
Phosphorous Pentoxide with water
Sodium Peroxide with any oxidizable substances, for instance: methanol, glacial acetic acid, acetic anhydride, benzaldehyde, carbon disulfide, glycerine, ethylene glycol, ethyl acetate, furfural, etc.
Sulfuric Acid with chlorates, perchlorates, permanganates and water.
Some combinations of chemicals lead to especially sensitive or unstable mixtures. There are many more of such incompatible chemicals/mixtures than listed here but these are some of the more commonly encountered types:
Chlorates and sulfur. Mixtures containing both are not only very sensitive to friction and shock but are also known to ignite spontaneously. The sulfur reacts with water and air to form trace amounts of sulfuric acid. This will react with chlorates to form chlorine dioxide, a yellow explosive gas that will ignite most flammable materials upon contact. Addition of small amounts of barium or strontium carbonate to chlorate based compositions is sometimes done to prevent buildup of acid, even in compositions without sulfur. Many older texts on pyrotechnics describe the use of chlorate/sulfur based compositions. Today, many alternative and much safer compositions are available and there is therefore no excuse for the use of chlorate/sulfur mixtures. This also means chlorate based compositions cannot be used in items that also contain sulfur based mixtures. For example: chlorate based stars cannot be
primed with black powder. Nor can a H3 burst charge be used with black powder primed stars (or stars containing sulfur). Chlorates and ammonium compounds. Mixing these will allow ammonium chlorate to form in a double decomposition reaction that takes place in solution (moisture speeds up the process). Ammonium chlorate is a highly instable explosive compound. It decomposes over time producing chlorine dioxide gas (see chlorates and sulfur). Mixtures are likely to spontaneously ignite upon storage or may explode for no apparent reason. An exception seems to be the use of ammonium chloride and potassium chlorate in some smoke compositions. According to Shimizu this combination is safe due to the lower solubility of potassium chlorate (compared to ammonium chlorate). I personally would still use these mixtures with great caution (or avoid them) since it seems inevitable that small amounts of ammonium chlorate will still form. The lower solubility of potassium chlorate will make it the -main- product in a double decomposition reaction but not the -only- product. Chlorates with metals and nitrates. These mixtures show the same problems as chlorate/ammonium compound mixtures. The reason is that nitrates can be reduced by most metals used in pyrotechnics to ammonium. The reaction rate of this reaction is increased by presence of water. Over time (for example when drying) these mixtures may spontaneously ignite or become extremely sensitive. The fact that ammonium forms in a relatively slow reaction is treacherous. These mixtures are referred to as 'death mixes' by some. Aluminum and nitrates. Mixtures of these compounds sometimes spontaneously ignite, especially when moist. The mechanism is assumed to be as follows: the aluminum reduces some of the nitrate to ammonium, simultaneously forming hydroxyl ions. The aluminum then reacts with the alkaline products in a very exothermic reaction leading to spontaneous heating up of the mixture. This can eventually lead to ignition. The reactions take place in solution and therefore moisture speeds up the reaction. The process is usually accompanied by the smell of ammonia. Some types of aluminum are more problematic than others. Stearin coated aluminum is generally safer to use. The whole process can be prevented in many cases by the addition of 1 to 2 percent of boric acid. This will neutralise the alkaline products. It is best to bind such compositions with non-aquaous binder/solvent systems such as red gum/ethanol. Since aluminum/nitrate mixtures are extensively used it is important to be aware of this problem which is why the combination is listed here.
Flash Powder:
ALL FLASH POWDERS ARE EXTREMELY HAZARDOUS. THEY WILL IGNITE FROM FRICTION, IMPACT, OR FLAME. While it is assumed that the individual who is dispensing these materials is responsible and knowledgeable as to their use, the following pointers will prove helpful:
Always use electrical ignition, either a commercial squib or Nichrome hot wire. The use of a squib is preferred because it provides a more positive ignition. Always use an approved flash pot, made from transite or other similar material. Always use the minimum amount of powder required to achieve the desired effect. In general, one quarter of a teaspoon will be sufficient. Always have only one person who is responsible for dispensing and storing the flash powders. Never pour the powder directly from the bottle into the flash pot. Measure the correct amount using a non-sparking metal, not plastic, spoon. Never confine or compact the powder in any way. To do so may lead to a violent explosion. Never return unused powder to the original bottle. Never mix two different colors of flash powder. In many cases, the chemicals in the two materials are incompatible with each other. Never pour flash powder from its plastic bottle onto plastic film or into another plastic container. The material is packed in plastic to reduce the danger of serious injury in case the powder should ignite in the bottle. Be extra careful on dry or low humidity days, when the chance of ignition by static electricity is high.
Chemical Notes:
Aluminum Al An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be purchased as a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to superpure (99.9%) can be used. The danger is from inhaling the dust and explosive room condition if too much dust goes into the air.
Aluminum Chloride AlCl3 This chemical must not come in contact with the skin as severe burns can result. The yellowish-white crystals or powder have a strong attraction for water. Purchase only in the anhydrous grade.
Amber This is a fossil resin of vegetable origin and is yellowish- brown in color. It is used in fireworks to a small extent.
Ammonium Bichromate and Dichromate (NH4)2Cr2O7 A mild poison used in the manufacture of tabletop volcanoes (sometimes called Vesuvius Fire). It is available as orange crystals in a technical grade. Also used in smoke formulas.
Ammonium Chloride NH4NO3 The common name is Sal Ammoniac. Comes as colorless crystals or a white powder. The technical grade is used to manufacture safety explosives and smokes.
Ammonium Oxalate NH4C2O4 This compound takes the form of colorless, poisonous, crystals. The technical grade is suitable for the manufacture of safety explosives.
Ammonium Perchlorate (NH4ClO4) This chemical can be made to explode by either heat or shock. Besides exploding in itself, it is used to manufacture other explosives.
Ammonium Permanganate NH4MnO4 A moderate explosive which can be detonated by either heat or shock.
Ammonium Picrate (NH4C6H2N3O7) These bright orange crystals are used in armor piercing shells and fireworks. If heated to 300 degrees it will explode or it can be set off by shock. If you do any work with this chemical, it is advisable to keep it wet.
Aniline Dyes These are used in smoke powder formulas. They are organic coal tar derivatives. Available in many different colors.
Aniline Green C23H25CIN2 Also known as Malachite Green. One of the many Aniline dyes. The green crystals are used in smoke formulas.
Anthracene A coal tar derivative used as a source of dyestuff and for colored smokes. Available as colorless crystals which melt at 217 degrees.
Antimony Sb Another name for this metal element is Antimony Regulus. Purchase the black powder in 99% purity. Not the yellow variety. It is used in pyrotechnics.
Antimony Fulminate One of a group of unstable, explosive compounds related to Mercury Fulminate.
Antimony Potassium Tartrate Also known under the name of Tartar Emetic. These poisonous, transparent, odorless crystals (or white powder) are used to make Antimony Fulminate. The moisture that is present can be driven off by heating to 100 degrees. Do not exceed this temperature or the chemical will decompose.
Antimony Sulfide (Sb2S3) This has usefulness in sharpening the report of firecrackers, salutes, etc. or to add color to a fire. The technical black powder is suitable. Avoid contact with the skin; dermatitis or worse will be the result.
Aqua Regia A strong acid containing 1 part concentrated Nitric Acid and 3 parts concentrated Hydrochloric Acid. Store in a well closed glass bottle in a dark place. This acid will attack all metals, including gold and platinum. It is used in making some explosives.
Arsenic Sulfide, Red The common name is Realgar and it is also known as Red Arsenic. Purchase the technical grade, which is available as a poisonous orange-red powder. It is used in fireworks to impart color to the flame.
Arsenic Sulfide,Yellow (As2S3) This Chemical is just as poisonous as its red brother and is also used in fireworks, somewhat. The common name is Kings Gold.
Arsenious Oxide (As2O)3 A white, highly poisonous powder used in fireworks. It is also known as Arsenious Trioxide, Arsenic Oxide and Arsenous Acid. Its uses are similar to Paris Green.
Asphaltum A black bituminous substance, best described as powdered tar.
Auramine Hydrochloride Also known as Auramine. It is used in smoke formulas. Available as yellow flakes or powder, which readily dissolves in alcohol.
Auramine A certified Biological stain used in smoke cartridges.
Barium Carbonate BaCO3 This is a poisonous salt of Barium, which decomposes at a fairly high temperature, 1300 degrees. It is available as a fine white powder in the technical grade. It is used in fireworks as a color imparter.
Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO3)2H2O Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. It is used in fireworks, both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful as Potassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Melting point is 414 degrees.
Barium Nitrate Ba(NO3)2 The uses and precautions are the same as above with a comparison equal to Potassium Nitrate instead of the Chlorate. It melts at 500 degrees.
Bismuth Fulminate One of a group of unstable, explosive compounds derived from Fulminic Acid.
Brass This is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. Some also contain a small percentage of Tin. The commercial grade is suitable in powdered form. It is used in some fireworks formulas.
Calcium Carbide CaCO3 These grayish, irregular lumps are normally packed in waterproof and airtight metal containers. It is used in toy cannons. Mixed with water it forms Acetylene Gas (EXPLOSIVE).
Calcium Carbonate CaCO3 This occurs as the mineral Calcite. It is used for Phosphorous Torpedoes, but does not have any dangerous properties in itself. Also as an acid absorber in fireworks.
Calcium Fluoride CaF2 This finds its use in a smokeless firework mixture and is not used elsewhere. It is a white powder, also known as Fluorspar.
Calcium Phosphide Ca3P2 This compound, which comes as gray lumps, must be kept dry. Upon contact with water it will form the flammable gas, Phosphine. It is used in signal fires.
Camphor OC10H16 A ketone found in the wood of the Camphor tree, native to Taiwan and a few of our states. For the best results, buy the granulated, technical grade. Used in explosives and fireworks.
Castor Oil The common drug store variety is used in some powders to reduce the sensitiveness and to waterproof the mixture.
Charcoal C A form of the element, Carbon, it is used in fireworks and explosives as a reducing agent. It can be purchased as a dust up to a coarse powder. The softwood variety is best and it should be black, not brown.
Chrysoidine An organic dye available as a red-brown powder. It is used in smoke formulas.
Clay This can be purchased in the powdered form. It is used dry for chokes, nozzles and sealing firework cases. You can mix it with water to form paste if so desired.
Confectioners Sugar Commonly called powdered sugar, it can be purchased at your local food store. The fineness is graded by the symbol XXXX. It is used in explosives.
Copper Cu As any pure metal used in fireworks, this must also be in a powdered state. It is reddish in color, in fact, it is the only element to be found in nature having that color.
Copper Acetoarsenite (Cu)3As2O3Cu(C2H3O2)2 The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called Kings Green or Vienna Green. It is readily available as an insecticide or as a technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in fireworks to add color.
Copper Arsenate CuHAsO3 A fine, light green, poisonous powder. It is used in the technical grade for fireworks.
Copper Carbonate CuCO3.Cu(OH)2 Also known as Cupric Carbonate or Artificial Malachite. It is a green powder used in fireworks.
Copper Chlorate Cu(ClO3)2.6H2O Or, technically, Cupric Chlorate. A poison used in fireworks as an oxidizer and to add color.
Copper Chloride CuCl2 An oxidizer and color imparter used in fireworks. Purchase the brownish-yellow technical grade. This is a poisonous compound.
Copper Nitrate Cu(NO3)2.3H2O Or Cupric Nitrate. These blue crystals absorb water, as you can see from the formula. It is used in fireworks.
Copper Oxide CuO When ordering be sure to specify the black powder. It is also available in red. The technical grade will serve the purpose for fireworks.
Copper Oxychloride A green powder used to impart oxygen and color especially to blue star formulas. It is a poison and the dust should not be inhaled.
Copper Sulfate CuSO4.5H2O Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue crystals or blue powder. It can be purchased in some drugstores. Used in fireworks for blue stars.
Copper Sulfide CuS
As are the other copper salts, this is also used in fireworks to add color. The technical grade is suitable and is black in color. You can make your own by passing Hydrogen Sulfide into a Copper salt.
Decaborane B10H14 This chemical is classed as a flammable solid and is used for rocket fuels. It will remain stable indefinitely at room temperature.
Diazoacetic Ester C4H6N2O2 A very severe explosive in the form of a yellow oil. It will explode on contact with Sulfuric acid or when heated. Very volatile and explosive.
Diazoaminobenzene C6H5N:N.NH.C6H5 These golden yellow crystals will explode when heated to 150 degrees.
P-Diazobenzeneslfonic Acid C6H4NSO3N Another severe explosive. It can be exploded by rubbing the white paste or powder, or by heating.
Diazodimitrophenol HOC6H3(NO2)2N(:N) An organic explosive in the same group as the above compound. Also very sensitive to shock or heat.
Diazomethane CH2N2 Also known as Azimethylene. This yellow gas is also in the above group and can be exploded by heat or shock.
Dinitrotoulene Known as DNT for short. These yellow crystals are used in the manufacture of other explosives.
Ethyl Alcohol This alcohol is the only one that is useful for fireworks. It should be about 95% pure. It is poisonous because of the impurities. It is clear, like water, and also a very flammable liquid.
Fluorine Perchlorate FClO4 A very sensitive colorless gas which will explode on the slightest contact with a rough surface. It can also be detonated by heating to 168 degrees. Avoid all contact with this gas, as even a trace of it will attack the lungs.
Gallic Acid C7H6O5.H2O A white or pale fawn colored powder used in fireworks to make whistles. When mixed with some chlorates, Permanganates or Silver salts, it may explode.
Glycerol C3H8O3 Commonly known as Glycerin. It is obtained from oils and fats as a by-product when making soaps. It is a sweet warm tasting syrupy liquid which is used in several explosives. Contact with Chromium Trionide or potassium Permanganate may cause an explosion.
Gold Explosive A dark brown powder which explodes when heated or rubbed. Upon exploding, it yields Gold, Nitrogen and Ammonia. The exact composition is unknown because it is too explosive to be dried.
Guanidine Nitrate CH5N3.HNO3 Guanidine is found in turnip juice, rice hulls and earthworms. It is used in the preparation of this chemical, or, it can be made from Ammonium Nitrate and Dicyanodiamide. To be of any value, it should be 95% pure. Guanidine Nitrate is not explosive itself, but is used in the manufacture of explosives. It is a white powder which melts at 210 degrees.
Gum Arabic
A dried, gummy, exudate from tropical trees. It is available as flakes, fragments and powder. It is used as a binder in firework formulas.
Hexachlorethane CCl3.CCl3 Also known as Carbon Hexachloride, this chemical is used in smoke formulas It can be obtained in either powder or crystals.
Indigo A dark blue crystalline powder which is a commercial dye. You can purchase either the technical or pure grade for smokes.
Iodine Heavy grayish metallic looking crystals or flakes. Poisonous. Purchase the U.S.P. grade. It is being used in making explosives.
Iron Fe The granular powder (at least 99% pure) is needed for several firework pieces. It is not a dangerous element but will rust very easily, making it useless.
Iron Oxide FeO These black crystals are used in thermite mixtures. When ordering, it may be listed as Ferrous Oxide. Black.
Kieselguhr This is a whitish powder used in dynamites. It is a siliceous earth, consisting mainly of diatoms. A good grade will absorb about four times its own weight.
Lactose Also called milk sugar. This white powder has a sweet taste. The crude grade will work for smoke formulas.
Lampblack This is another name for the element, carbon(pencil lead). It is a finely powdered black dust, resulting from the burning of crude oils. It is used for special effects in fireworks.
Lead Azide PbN6 This is a poisonous white powder which explodes by heating to 350 degrees or by concussion. The main usage is in primers. It can be made from Sodium Azide and Lead Nitrate.
Lead Bromate Pb(Bro3)2.H2O Poisonous, colorless crystals. Pure Lead Bromate is not explosive unless it is made from precipitated Lead Acetate with an alkali bromate. Made in this manner, it can be exploded by rubbing or striking.
Lead Chloride PbCl2 It is available as a white crystalline, poisonous powder which melts at 501 degrees. It is used in fireworks.
Lead Dioxide PbO2 Also known as Brown Lead Oxide, this dark brown powder is used as an oxidizer in matches and fireworks. Poisonous.
Lead Nitrate Pb(NO3)2 Available as white or colorless crystals in the technical grade. The uses include matches and explosives. Poisonous.
Lead Oxide Pb3O4 Also known as Red Lead or Lead Tetroxide. A 95% purity is desired for matches. Also poisonous.
Linseed Oil Available in many forms: Brown, boiled, raw and refined. All are made from the seed of the flax plant. The cheapest form is suitable for fireworks. Purchase from a paint store.
Lithium Chloride LiCl The technical grade is sometimes used to add color to fireworks compositions. Available as a white powder.
Manganese Dioxide MnO2 Used in pyrotechnic mixtures, matches and match box friction surfaces. Available as a technical grade, black powder. This oxidizer decomposes at 535 degrees.
Magnesium Mg This metal is used in a powdered state for brilliancy in flares and will even burn vigorously underwater.
Mercuric Chloride HgCl2 A white, poisonous powder. Also known as Corrosive Sublimate. It can be made by subliming Mercuric Sulfate with ordinary table salt and then purified by recrystallization. The U.S.P. grade is used for some firework compositions.
Mercuric Oxide HgO Available in two forms; red and yellow. Both forms give the same oxidizing effects in fireworks. The technical grade is suitable.. All forms are poisonous.
Mercuric Oxycyanide HgO.Hg(CN)2 In the pure state it is a violent poison which will explode when touched by flame or friction.
Mercuric Thiocyanate Hg(SCN)2
A poisonous, white odorless powder used in the making of Pharaoh"s Serpents. Use the technical grade.
Mercurous Chloride HgCl Also known as Calomel or Mercuric Monochloride. This white, non- poisonous powder will brighten an otherwise dull colored mixture. Sometimes it is replaced by PVC or Hexachlorobenzene and even Antimony Sulfide, for the same purpose. Note that it is non poisonous only when it is 100% pure. Never confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride, which is poisonous in any form.
Mercury Fulminate Hg(ONC)2.H2O A crystalline compound used in primers, percussion caps, blasting caps and other detonators. Explodes very easily from heat or shock.
Methylene Blue C16H18N3SCl This dark green powder is used for smokes in the technical grade. Also called Methylthionine Chloride.
Mineral Jelly Also known as Vaseline, Petrolatum or Petroleum Jelly. This acts as a stabilizer in fireworks and explosives.
Naphthalene This is a tar product that you may know better as Moth Flakes or moth balls. Only the 100% pure form should be used in making smoke powders. The melting point is 100 degrees.
Nitric Acid HNO3 Also known as Aqua Fortis. It is a clear, colorless corrosive liquid, which fumes in moist air. It can react violently with organic matter such as Charcoal, Alcohol or Turpentine and consequently must be handled Very carefully. It is available in three forms: White fuming, Red Fuming and Concentrated (70 to 71%). The latter, with a specific gravity of 1.42, is the proper grade to buy. Whatever grade, avoid contact with the fumes or the liquid. Contact with the skin will cause it to burn and turn yellow. It is used to manufacture many explosives.
Nitroglycerin C3H5N3O9 A liquid with a sweet burning taste, but do not taste it or it will produce a violent headache or acute poisoning. It can be made to explode by rapid heating or percussion. It is used as an explosive and also to make other explosives.
Nitroguanidine H2NC(NH)NHNO2 A yellow solid made by dissolving Fuanidine in concentrated Sulfuric Acid and then diluting with water. Dangerous Explosive.
Nitromethane CH3NO2 An oily, poisonous liquid, which is used as rocket fuel.
Oil of Spike This is a volatile oil obtained from the leaves of certain trees. Keep this colorless (or pale yellow) liquid well closed and away from light. It is used in some fireworks.
Paraffin This is a white or transparent wax. It is normally sold in a solid block. You can use it to make the required powder.
Paranitroanaline Red (H2NC6H4)3COH A dye used in smoke formulas. It dissolves in alcohol and will melt at 139 degrees. It is also known as PAminophenyl.
Pentaerythritol Tetranitrate C5H8N4O12 A high explosive known as PRTN. Besides being an explosive itself it is used in a detonating fuse called Primacord.
Perchloryl Fluoride ClFO3 A gas under normal air pressure. When brought in contact with alcohol, explosions have resulted.
Phosphorus P This element comes in three forms, with three different ways of reacting. They resemble each other in name only. Red Phosphorous is the only suitable form for fireworks and matches. It is a non-poisonous violet-red powder. It will ignite at 260 degrees. When making a formula containing Phosphorous, be sure to work with it in a WET STATE. This is a most dangerous chemical to work with and should be handled only by the most experienced. Oxidizers have been known to detonate violently without warning when mixed with Red Phosphorous.
Phosphorous Pentasulfide Also known as Phosphoric Sulfide. These light yellow crystals are used in matches.
Phosphorus Trisulfide P2S3 This chemical can catch fire from the moisture that is present in air, therefore the container should be kept tightly capped. The technical grade, purchased as grayish-yellow masses, is used in making matches.
Picric Acid This is used to bring out and improve the tone of colors in various fireworks. It is also used to make other chemicals that are used in fireworks and explosives. Picric Acid can explode from heat or shock. It is interesting to note what it is called in other countries: Britain - Lyddite; France - Melinite; Japan Shimose.
Plaster of Paris This is a white powder, composed mostly of Calcium Sulfate. It is used, by mixing with water, for end plugs in fireworks and also in some formulas.
Potassium K A soft silvery metal element. It will react vigorously with water and several acids. It is not used directly except for some experiments.
Potassium Chlorate KClO3 This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before it was known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened the door to what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that is used as an oxidizer. Never ram a mixture containing Potassium Chlorate. Do not store mixtures which contain this chemical for any great length of time, as they may explode spontaneously.
Potassium Dichromate K2CR2O7 Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used in fireworks and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous. Also used in smokes.
Potassium Ferrocyanide K4Fe(CN)6.3H2O Lemon yellow crystals or powder which will decompose at high temperatures. It is used in the manufacture of explosives.
Potassium Nitrate KNO3 Commonly called Saltpeter; this chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes at 400 degrees. It is well known as a component in gunpowder and is also used in other firework pieces. Available as a white powder.
Potassium Perchlorate KClO4 Much more stable than its Chlorate brother, this chemical is a white or slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to make the formula safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to make up for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.
Potassium Picrate C6H2KN3O7
A salt of Picric Acid, this chemical comes in yellow, reddish or greenish crystals. It will explode when struck or heated. It is used in fireworks.
Potassium Thiocyanate KCNS Colorless or white crystals which are used to make the Pharaoh's Serpent. The commercial grade or pure grade is suitable.
n-Propyl Nitrate C3H7NC2 Prepared from Silver Nitrate and n-Propyl Bromide and is used as a jet propellant.
Red Gum Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace it in many firework formulas. Red gum is obtained from the bark of trees.
Rhodamine B A basic fluorescent organic pigment also known as Rhodamine Red. Available in green or red crystals or powder. It is used in smoke formulas.
Shellac An organic rosin made from the secretion of insects which live in India. The exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums. The common mixture of Shellac and Alcohol sold in hardware stores should be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.
Silver Fulminate AgONC A crystalline salt similar to Mercury Fulminate but more sensitive. In fact, too sensitive for commercial blasting. It is used for toy torpedoes and poppers.
Silver Oxide Ag2O
Dark brown, odorless powder. It is potentially explosive and becomes increasingly more so with time. Keep away from Ammonia and combustible solvents. The technical grade, which is about 92% pure, is suitable.
Sodium Aluminum Fluoride Na3AlF6 Also known as mineral, Cryolite. It is used in fireworks in the white powdered form.
Sodium Bicarbonate NaHCO3 When a formula calls for this chemical, you can use Baking Soda (NOT Baking Powder). It is a white, nonpoisonous powder.
Sodium Carbonate NaCO3 This white powder is used in fireworks, but not to any great extent. The anhydrous grade is best.
Sodium Chlorate NaClO3 An oxidizer similar to Potassium Chlorate, although not as powerful and also with the disadvantage of absorbing water. Decomposes at 325 degrees.
Sodium Chloride NaCl This is used in fireworks. You can use the common form, table salt (or rock salt if made into a powder).
Sodium Nitrate NaNO3 Also known as Chile Saltpeter; very similar to Saltpeter, (Potassium Nitrate). It is used where large amounts of powder are needed in fireworks and explosives. It will absorb water as do other sodium salts.
Sodium Oxalate Na2C2O4
This is not a strong poison, but is poisonous, and you should not come in contact with it or breathe the dust for any prolonged period. The technical grade is best for making yellow fires.
Sodium Perchlorate NaClO4H2O This chemical is used in fireworks and explosives. It is very similar to Potassium Perchlorate with the exception that it will absorb water.
Sodium Peroxide Na2O2 A yellowish-white powder. It can explode or ignite in contact with organic substances.
Sodium Picrate Very similar to Potassium Picrate and should be handled with the same precautions. It is also known under the name of Sodium Trinitrophenolate.
Sodium Silicate Na2SlO3.9H2O This chemical, commonly called water glass, is used as a fireproof glue. It is available in syrupy solution and can be thinned with water if necessary. When dry it resembles glass, hence the name. It can, when desired, be thickened with calcium carbonate, zinc oxide, powdered silica, or fiberglass (chopped) if extra strength is desired.
Stearin Colorless, odorless, tasteless, soapy crystal or powder. Sometimes referred to as Stearic Acid. Purchase the technical grade, powder. It can often take the place of Sulphur and Charcoal in fireworks.
Strontium Carbonate SrCO3 Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding a red color to fires. It comes as a white powder in a pure, technical or natural state.
Strontium Chloride SrCl2.6H2O
A colorless or white granulated chemical used in pyrotechnics. It will absorb water and is not used often.
Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO3)2 By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and fires. Available in the technical powder grade. An oxidizer with 45% oxygen and absorbs water.
Strontium Sulfate SrSO4 This does not absorb water as quickly as nitrate and is used when storage is necessary. In its natural state it is known as Celestine, which compares to grades used in fireworks.
Sulphur (Sulfur) S For example type II burns at 250 degrees giving off choking fumes. Purchase good pyro grades low in acid. Used in many types of fireworks and explosives.
Sulfuric Acid H2SO4 Also called Oil of Vitriol, it is a clear liquid with the consistency of a thin syrup. Bottles should be kept tightly closed as it is a very corrosive and dangerous chemical. It has a great affinity for water and will absorb it from any source. The effect can be a charred surface or fire. The grade used in explosives is 9398%.
Sulfur Trioxide SO3 This powder will combine with water with explosive violence to form Sulfuric Acid. If brought in contact with wood flour and a drop of water is added, a fire will start. It is used to make some explosives.
Trinitrotoluene (NO2)3C6H2CH3 Commonly known as TNT. The poisonous crystals are colorless in the pure state. It is more powerful and expensive than Dynamite. If not confined it will burn like dynamite. Used as a high explosive and to make others.
Wood Flour This is merely another name for sawdust or wood meal. It is used in fireworks and explosives.
Zinc Zn Of all the forms, only the dust is suitable in the technical or high purity grade. It is a gray powder used in star mixtures and for fuel in model rockets.
Zinc Borate 3ZnO.2B2O3 A white amorphous powder used in making smoke formulas. A relatively safe compound to handle.
Zinc Carbonate ZnCO3 Another white Zinc compound used in some smoke formulas. Also a safe compound to handle.
Zinc Oxide ZnO Sometimes called Flowers of Zinc. This is a white or yellowish powder used in some firework formulas. It has also found use as a thickening agent in water glass when a stronger pyro paste is desired.
HOW TO MIX INGREDIENTS:
The best way to mix two dry chemicals to form an explosive is to do as the small-scale fireworks manufacturer's do:
Ingredients: ·
1 large sheet of smooth paper (for example a page from a newspaper that does not use staples)
·
The dry chemicals needed for the desired compound.
-Measure out the appropriate amounts of the two chemicals, and pour them in two small heaps near opposite corners of the sheet. -Pick up the sheet by the two corners near the powders, allowing the powders to roll towards the middle of the sheet. -By raising one corner and then the other, roll the powders back and forth in the middle of the open sheet, taking care not to let the mixture spill from either of the loose ends. -Pour the powder off from the middle of the sheet, and use immediately. If it must be stored use airtight containers (35mm film canisters work nicely) and store away from people, houses, and valuable items.
Tools:
As with many hobbies, pyrotechnics requires some tools. For what I do, it's usually all pretty simple stuff. When you get into real pyrotechnics, you need things like ball mills, presses, and star rollers. For some info on those things, click here and here.
Scales:
A good scale is an absolute must for real pyrotechnics. When measuring compositions, all measurements are done by weight, so you need an accurate scale. Postal scales that use a spring are crap and are not suitable for accurate measurements. You need either a digital scale or a tripe beam balance.
My digital scale:
I didn't shop around when I bought my scale, so I got ripped off! I bought the "MX-200 Pyro Scale" for $90 and later found it on eBay for much less. There are many different places that sell scales, and you should get one with 0.1g accuracy.
A few sites that sell scales (there are many more):
Cyberscale eBay is definitely worth a look, you can get great deals sometimes! eXactaDigital Balances.com Pyrotek has scales, along with a lot of other stuff.
Ball mills:
Ball mills are very important to the serious pyrotechnician because they are needed to make good blackpowder at home and to mill powders finely. You can either buy one or make one and rock tumblers often work just as well (some ball mills are just rock tumblers with a different name).
Lortone rock tumbler sold by United Nuclear as a ball mill:
UN ball mills and milling media.
The "ball mills" UN sells are Lortone rock/jewelry tumblers, but from what I've heard, they work very well. The Lortone website has them listed much cheaper than UN sells them, so you should check it out. eBay is also a place to find them, but after shipping it might not be any cheaper.
Making a bal mill can be a good project if you like building things, and it will be a lot cheaper than buying one. A few pages on making your own:
Dan Williams ball mill Wouter Visser's ball mill
Mortar & Pestle:
A mortar and pestle are very useful for grinding up chemicals into powder. For larger amounts or for making black powder you will obviously want a ball mill, but for small amounts a mortar and pestle can be very useful. They can be purchased at cooking stores and chemistry supply stores/websites.
Mortar and Pestle:
Coffee Grinder:
Coffee grinders are somewhere between a mortal and pestle and a ball mill. I find some of the best things to use them for is to grind prilled KNO3 and NH4NO3. Some people also use them to grind Al foil before they ball mill it to make rather large flake Al powder. I got mine for $11.
Coffee grinder:
Glassware:
Glassware is used more often to make HE's than to be used for LE's. The basics are shown here, flasks, graduated cylinders and thermometers.
Assorted glassware:
Electric Hotplate:
Hotplates can be used for a number of things related to pyrotechnics/explosives. You could use it for melting KNO3/sucrose, boiling 3% H2O2 to concentrate, or any other procedure like TNP that requires heating. You could get a fancy one specifically for lab use that will get hotter and do it faster, or you can buy one intended for home use. I bought a "Toastmaster" hotplate for $20 at a large hardware/appliance store.
Hotplate:
There are plenty of basic tools that will often come in handy, that are a lot cheaper also!
Ignition supplies:
You will definitely need something to light your devices (unless you are using electrical ignition) so these are some of the most basic things. A lighter and matches are both good, but are not ideal for directly lighting fuses. A better choice is a punk. Punks are pretty much just a stick with sawdust or something on them. They look and burn like incense, but without the smell. Because you have a constant coal, they work very well for lighting fuses. Just be sure not to light your device and then toss your lit punk into a pile of dry grass! There are two general sizes, incense size and much larger ones that I like better.
Protection:
Safety is a very important part of pyro, as it can be a fairly dangerous hobby. Your eyes are very vulnerable, so you should were eye protection while working with devices and setting them off. There are several different choices of protection, either eye or full face. Choose what to wear depending on what you are doing. It would of course be best to have full face protection at all times, but it isn't always essential.
Hand protection should be used whenever you are working with something that has the potential to ignite. Leather gloves should be worn for best protection. While working with powders, you should were a dust mask to keep particles out of your nose, mouth, throat and lungs. Check MSDS sheets for specific precautions for different chemicals. A respirator is a good thing to have sometimes, IÌll probably buy one myself before too long.
Knives:
Knives have all kinds of uses, and can often be used for things such as cutting open firework casings. There are millions of things to do with a knife, not just pyro related. Buy a good one and it should last you a long time.
Light:
You will probably set off some of your devices at night, and it's a good idea to be able to see where you are going! This is very basic, so it can sometimes be forgotten. Maglites are good, but I really like a lightweight LED headlamp because you don't need your hands and it is very bright.
Pliers/cutters:
Pliers can both be useful for things like peeling casings or crushing powder. I use wire cutters for things like cutting the sticks off bottle rockets for making a Can o Rockets.
If you think of any other tools I forgot, feel free to email me and I'll add them.
[Information copied from http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/infodir/tools.html]
3.0 EXPLOSIVE THEORY
An explosive is any material that, when ignited by heat or shock, undergoes rapid decomposition or oxidation. This process releases energy that is stored in the material in the form of heat and light, or by breaking down into gaseous compounds that occupy a much larger volume that the original piece of material. Because this expansion is very rapid, large volumes of air are displaced by the expanding
gases. This expansion occurs at a speed greater than the speed of sound, and so a sonic boom occurs. This explains the mechanics behind an explosion. Explosives occur in several forms: high-order explosives which detonate, low order explosives, which burn, and primers, which may do both.
High order explosives detonate. A detonation occurs only in a high order explosive. Detonations are usually incurred by a shockwave that passes through a block of the high explosive material. The shockwave breaks apart the molecular bonds between the atoms of the substance, at a rate approximately equal to the speed of sound traveling through that material. In a high explosive, the fuel and oxidizer are chemically bonded, and the shockwave breaks apart these bonds, and re-combines the two materials to produce mostly gasses. T.N.T., ammonium nitrate, and R.D.X. are examples of high order explosives.
Low order explosives do not detonate; they burn, or undergo oxidation. when heated, the fuel(s) and oxidizer(s) combine to produce heat, light, and gaseous products. Some low order materials burn at about the same speed under pressure as they do in the open, such as black powder. Others, such as gunpowder, which is correctly called nitrocellulose, burn much faster and hotter when they are in a confined space, such as the barrel of a firearm; they usually burn much slower than black powder when they are ignited in unpressurized conditions. Black powder, nitrocellulose, and flash powder are good examples of low order explosives.
Primers are peculiarities to the explosive field. Some of them, such as mercury fulminate, will function as a low or high order explosive. They are usually more sensitive to friction, heat, or shock, than the high or low explosives. Most primers perform like a high order explosive, except that they are much more sensitive. Still others merely burn, but when they are confined, they burn at a great rate and with a large expansion of gasses and a shockwave. Primers are usually used in a small amount to initiate, or cause to decompose, a high order explosive, as in an artillery shell. But, they are also frequently used to ignite a low order explosive; the gunpowder in a bullet is ignited by the detonation of its primer.
3.1 explosive classification:
CLASSIFICATION EXPLOSIVE COLOR USES RATE OF DETONATION REMARKS Low Explosives
Black Powder Black, gray or cocoa brown Safety fuze, Muzzle loaders 1,312 feet per second very sensitive to friction heat and shock Smokeless Powder Light brown to black Small arms, mortars, rockets Rapid burning very sensitive to friction heat and shock Primary Explosives
Lead Azide White to buff gray Detonators, priming compositions 13,400 to 17,000 feet per second very sensitive to friction heat and shock
Lead Styphnate White to buff gray Priming compositions 17,100 Feet per second very sensitive to friction heat and shock Mercury Fulminate Light orange to reddish brown Detonators, priming compositions 11,500 to 21,100 feet per second very sensitive to friction heat and shock Tetracene Pale yellow Detonators, priming compositions Less than 13,100 feet per second sensitive to shock and heat. Used in combination with other explosives Secondary Explosives
Amatol Buff to yellow to dark brown Main charge for bombs, projectiles 14,800 to 21,100 feet per second Developed during WWII to conserve TNT Ammonal Gray Projectile filler
17,700 feet per second water soluable Ammonium Nitrate White but may be dyed other colors Ingredient of many explosive mixtures 3,300 to 8,200 feet per second Must be kept cool Ammonium Picrate yellow to orange to red Armor piercing projectiles and bombs 22,500 feet per second Relatively insensitive to shock and friction Astrolite White pellets Demolition 2,600 to 26, 200 feet per second Inert until mixed. Do not use with Tetryl C-4 White to light brown Plastic demolition explosive 26,400 feet per second Insensitive to impact and friction Cyclotol Buff to yellow to brown Fragmentation bombs, projectiles
25,900 to 26,400 feet per second Excellent for blast effects Flex-x any color--Usually olive drab or red Cutting charges 22,300 feet per second Flexible, waterproof, insensitve to shock Secondary Explosives
HBX (Torpex) Gray Main charge filler for underwater bombs and torpedoes 22,700 to 23,700 feet per second Excellent for blast effects HMX White Mixed with TNT in high blast warheads 29,900 feet per second By product of RDX manufacture Kinepak Powder is white, the liquid is usually pink Construction 20,100 feet per second Inert until mixed Minol
gray Filler for bombs and depth charges 19,100 to 19,700 feet per second Comparable to TNT in sensitivity to initiation Nitro-Cellulose White Blasting, smokeless powder 21,900 feet per second Used in flashless powder Nitro-glycerin Clear to amber. Red fumes mean "Beware" Demolition, ingredient in dynamite 4,900 to 25,400 feet per second Can be absorbed through skin causing headache Secondary Explosives
Nitro-guanidine White to yellow Propellant and bursting charge ingredient 25,100 feet per second One of the least sensitive military explosives Nitro-starch white Mortar shells, grenades 16,00 feet per second
Another form of Nitro-cellulose Octol Buff Projectile and bomb filler 27,500 to 28,300 feet per second Excellent for blast effects Pentolite White to yellow to gray Shape charges, boosters 24,500 feet per second Presence of grit increases impact sensitivity PETN white unless dyed Det cord, blasting caps, primer 27,200 feet per second Presence of grit increases impact sensitivity Picratol Yellow to brownish yellow Armor piercing projectiles and bombs 22,900 feet per second Insensitive to initiation Secondary Explosives
Picric acid Cream to yellow to red
Alternative filler 19,00 feet per second Dangerous when it deteriorates RDX White but may be dyed Det cord, blasting caps, used to make C-4 26,800 feet per second Not used much until WWII Tetryl Clear to yellow to gray Booster, blasting caps 25,800 feet per second Colors skin reddish brown and causes rash Tetrytol Light yellow to buff Bursters, demolition blocks 24,000 to 24,200 feet per second Similar to TNT and Tetryl TNT Light yellow to brown to light gray Bombs, projectiles, demolition 21,800 to 22,400 feet per second Standard with which all other explosives are measured Torpex Gray
Depth charges, mines 24,600 feet per second Excellent for blast effects Tritonal Silvergray Bombs 21,200 to 22,000 feet per second More powerful and more sensitive to shock than TNT strobe.gif (1032 bytes)
stary.gif (3310 bytes)Dynamite There are hundreds of formulas for dynamite and there is no set standard for detonation speed, color, or size. Dynamite with nitroglycerin as an ingredient is becoming rare. Nitroglycerin dynamite will crystalize after a long period of storage. A sudden temperature difference of 3 degrees can cause these crystals to detonate without warning.
4.0 Chemical Equivalency list:
Acacia................................................................Gum Arabic Acetic Acid..............................................................Vinegar Aluminum Oxide............................................................Alumia Aluminum Potassium Sulphate.................................................Alum Aluminum Sulfate............................................................Alum
Ammonium Carbonate.....................................................Hartshorn Ammonium Hydroxide.......................................................Ammonia Ammonium Oleate.....................................................Ammonia Soap Amylacetate...........................................................Banana Oil Barium Sulfide.........................................................Black Ash Carbon Carbinate...........................................................Chalk Carbontetrachloride...............................................Cleaning Fluid Calcium Hypochloride............................................Bleaching Powder Calcium Oxide...............................................................Lime Calcium Sulfate.................................................Plaster of Paris Carbonic Acid............................................................Seltzer Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromide......................................Ammonium Salt Ethylinedichloride...................................................Dutch Fluid Furfuraldehyde..........................................................Bran Oil Glucose...............................................................Corn Syrup Graphite.............................................................Pencil Lead Hydrochloric Acid..................................................Muriatic Acid Hydrogen Peroxide.......................................................Peroxide Lead Acetate.......................................................Sugar of Lead Lead Tero-oxide.........................................................Red Lead Magnesium Silicate..........................................................Talc Magnesium Sulfate.....................................................Epsom Salt Methylsalicylate................................................Winter Green Oil Naphthalene............................................................Mothballs Phenol.............................................................Carbolic Acid
Potassium Bicarbonate............................................Cream of Tarter Potassium Chromium Sulfate............................................Chromealum Potassium Nitrate.....................................................Salt Peter Sodium Oxide................................................................Sand Sodium Bicarbonate...................................................Baking Soda Sodium Borate..............................................................Borax Sodium Carbonate....................................................Washing Soda Sodium Chloride.............................................................Salt Sodium Hydroxide.............................................................Lye Sodium Silicate............................................................Glass Sodium Sulfate....................................................Glauber's Salt Sodium Thiosulfate...........................................Photographer's Hypo Sulfuric Acid.......................................................Battery Acid Sucrose...............................................................Cane Sugar Zinc Chloride.....................................................Tinner's Fluid Zinc Sulfate.......................................................White Vitriol
5.0 LISTS OF SUPPLIERS AND MORE INFORMATION
Most, if not all, of the information in this publication can be obtained through a public or university library. There are also many publications that are put out by people who want to make money by telling other people how to make explosives at home. Adds for such appear frequently in paramilitary magazines and newspapers. This list is presented to show the large number of places that information and materials can be purchased from. It also includes fireworks companies and the like.
COMPANY NAME AND ADDRESS ________________________
FULL AUTO CO. INC. P.O. BOX 1881
WHAT COMPANY SELLS __________________
EXPLOSIVE RECIPES, PAPER TUBING
MURFREESBORO, TN 37133 _______________________________________________________________________________
UNLIMITED
CHEMICALS AND FUSE
BOX 1378-SN HERMISTON, OREGON 97838 _______________________________________________________________________________
AMERICAN FIREWORKS NEWS SR BOX 30
SOURCES AND TECHNIQUES
DINGMAN'S FERRY, PENNSYLVANIA 18328
FIREWORKS NEWS MAGAZINE WITH
_______________________________________________________________________________
BARNETT INTERNATIONAL INC. 125 RUNNELS STREET
BOWS, CROSSBOWS, ARCHERY MATERIALS, AIR RIFLES
P.O. BOX 226 PORT HURON, MICHIGAN 48060 _______________________________________________________________________________
CROSSMAN AIR GUNS
AIR GUNS
P.O. BOX 22927 ROCHESTER, NEW YORK 14692 _______________________________________________________________________________
EXECUTIVE PROTECTION PRODUCTS INC. 316 CALIFORNIA AVE.
TEAR GAS GRENADES,
PROTECTION DEVICES
RENO, NEVADA 89509 _______________________________________________________________________________
BADGER FIREWORKS CO. INC. BOX 1451 JANESVILLE, WISCONSIN 53547
CLASS "B" AND "C" FIREWORKS
_______________________________________________________________________________
NEW ENGLAND FIREWORKS CO. INC.
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
P.O. BOX 3504 STAMFORD, CONNECTICUTT 06095 _______________________________________________________________________________
RAINBOW TRAIL
CLASS "C" FIREWORKS
BOX 581 EDGEMONT, PENNSYLVANIA 19028 _______________________________________________________________________________
STONINGTON FIREWORKS INC.
CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
4010 NEW WILSEY BAY U.25 ROAD RAPID RIVER, MICHIGAN 49878 _______________________________________________________________________________
WINDY CITY FIREWORKS INC. P.O. BOX 11
CLASS "C" AND "B" FIREWORKS
{GOOD PRICES!}
ROCHESTER, INDIANNA 46975 _______________________________________________________________________________
*Any high school or college science or MST classroom has a buch of good chemicals that are very useful in making many things in this book. Obviously you’l have to steal what you need, so be careful; if you are caught, you problley be arrested and/or expelled.
_______________________________________________________________________________
5.1-WEBSITES (links):
Skylighter-http://www.skylighter.com/- Probably the biggest and best online supplier. They have a massive product selection and good prices. They have many books and videos on pyrotechnics, as well as high quality pyro tools. You must be on file with them to order, which means sending a copy of your drivers license or other ID. Firefox-http://www.firefox-fx.com/- Similar selection to Skylighter. They have some products Skylighter does not and vice versa. You must be on file with them to order. Iowa Pyro Supply-http://www.iowapyrosupply.com/-I don't really know much about this place, but they seem to have a good reputation on rec.pyrotechnics. Good selection and prices, you must be on file to order. Pyrotek-http://www.pyrotek.org/cgi-bin/newCataloger.cgi- Pyrotek sells a wide variety of pyro, rocketry and chemistry supplies. They have a large selection and decent prices. Warning! I have heard some bad things about this place. For example, I got an email from somebody saying they ordered fuse here, never got it, and did not get their money back. I have also heard from numerous people who report having no problems at all. I have ordered from them with no problems. Dawntreader Pyrotechnics-http://www.dawntreader.net/info.html - Haven't heard much about them, but they have quite a few chemicals and decent prices. Wolter Pyro Tools-http://www.wolterpyrotools.com/index.html - Nice tools for rockets, comets etc. Pyrosupplies.com-http://www.pyrosupplies.com/ - "High quality and hard to find pyrotechnic supplies" Precocious Pyrotechnics-http://www.pyro-pro.com/ - Non-chemical supplies like mortar tubes and other cardboard products.
LORTONE, inc.-http://www.lortone.com/ - Rock tumblers often used as ball mills. Lists local distributors. United Nuclear-http://www.unitednuclear.com/-No ID required, they have a lot of good products, but prices are very high for many things. Shop around before buying here. The no longer carry things like KClO4 and dark flake Al because too many losers ordered them and got in trouble. Stanford Systems Aerospace-http://www.ssaerospace.com/-A rocketry supplier. Warning! Many people (including myself) have ordered from here and had serious delays or have not received orders. DO NOT ORDER FROM HERE! EBay-http://www.ebay.com/ - You can sometimes find chemicals like kno3, sulfur, and potassium perchlorate here, but prices will most likely not be very good. Cannonfuse.com-http://www.cannonfuse.com/- They sell fuse and one size of tubes, along with a few books and plans. You do not have to be on file and can pay with cash. I have ordered from here with quick service, the price for fuse is far better than United Nuclear. Discount Pyro-http://www.discountpyro.com/index.htm- Small selection, but very cheap. Requires ID. I have ordered here with no problems. Pyro Plastics-http://www.pyroplastics.net/- Plastic aerial shell casings, class B shells listed and a mention of expanding to Class C sales. Pyrohobby-http://www.pyrohobby.com/ - A new supplier, sells a few chemicals and doesnít require ID. Pyrostuff-http://www.pyrostuff.com
http://www.hummelcroton.com-good source for ordering chemicals!
http://roguesci.org/megalomania/explosives.html-Really good source of information on explosives(which is where I got many of the procedures that are in this book…), any kind of chemicals, and other cool scientific info.
-www.totse.com-Website with info on guns, explosives, drugs, and other stuff people have sent in(although much information is questionable).
-http://www.armory.com/~spcecdt/pyrotech/pyrotest.html-a cool “pyro purity test”.
http://www.bombshock.com/cgi-bin/ib/ikonboard.cgi-kick-ass forum, good info. (check it out!)
5.3-BOOKS: _____
-THE IMPROVISED MUNITIONS MANUAL
-MILITARY EXPLOSIVES
-FIRES AND EXPLOSIONS
-Modern Chemical Magic
-Making Reliable Ignition Products at Home
6.0 Chemical preparation and sources:
6.1 Ammonium chloride:
Formula: NH4Cl
Description: Ammonium chloride is used in smoke compositions. When heated ammonium chloride decomposes to HCl and NH3, both gasses. These recombine in the air to give a smoke consisting of fine particles of ammonium chloride.
Hazards: Ammonium chloride based smoke is irritating to the eyes and lungs as it contains some remaining HCl and NH3. Ammonium chloride itself is not poisonous and is even used in some type of candy. According to Shimizu ammonium chloride forms an exception to the rule that ammonium compounds should not be mixed with chlorates. Due to the lower solubility of potassium chlorate (compared to ammonium chlorate) no ammonium chlorate . I personally would still use these mixtures with great caution (or avoid them) since it seems inevitable that small amounts of ammonium chlorate will still form. The lower solubility of potassium chlorate will make it the -main- product in a double decomposition reaction but not the -only- product.
Sources: Ammonium chloride solution is easily prepared by neutralising ammonia solution with hydrochloric acid. It is advised to use a slight excess of ammonia. That is to make sure no remaining acid will be present in the ammonium chloride obtained on evaporation and crystallisation. Otherwise traces of the acid solution may be enclosed in the crystals, possibly leading to spontaneous ignition of mixtures made with it.
6.2 Ammonium nitrate:
Formula: NH4 NO3
Description: Ammonium nitrate is an oxidiser. It is very hygroscopic and therefore not used very often in fireworks. It finds some use in composite propellants, but performance is not as good as perchlorate based propellants.
Hazards: Large masses of ammonium nitrate have been known to explode on some occasions although it is very unsensitive. Smaller quantities are less likely to detonate. The risk of detonation increases when ammonium nitrate is molten or mixed with fuels such as metal powders or organic substances. Ammonium nitrate should never be mixed with chlorates as this may result in ammonium chlorate formation, possibly leading to spontaneous ignition. Mixtures of metal powders and ammonium nitrate are likely to heat up spontaneously and may ignite, especially when moist. This can sometimes be prevented by the addition of small amounts of boric acid (1 to 2%), but in general it is better to avoid these mixtures at all. The hygroscopic nature of ammonium nitrates makes this problem worse.
Sources: Ammonium nitrate solution can be prepared by neutralising ammonia solution with nitric acid. It is advised to use a slight excess of ammonia. That is to make sure no remaining acid will be present in the ammonium nitrate obtained on evaporation and crystallisation. Otherwise traces of the acid solution may be enclosed in the crystals, possibly leading to spontaneous ignition of mixtures made with it. Large quantities of ammonium nitrate can also be cheaply bought as fertilizer. In the Netherlands a fertilizer called 'kalkammonsalpeter' is sold. This consists of ammonium nitrate mixed with 'mergel', a mineral consisting mainly of calcium carbonate. The ammonium nitrate can be extracted with water.
6.3 Ammonium perchlorate:
Formula: NH4ClO4
Description: Ammonium perchlorate is an oxidiser used in a large number of compositions. Very impressive color compositions can be made with it, but their burn rate is often too low for use in star compositions. For lancework and torches slow burning is an advantage and it is therefore commonly used in these items. Ammonium perchlorate is also used in composite rocket propellants, including the propellants used in the solid propellant boosters used for the space shuttle. The decomposition products of ammonium perchlorate are all gasses which is very beneficial for rocket propellants.
Hazards: Ammonium perchlorate can detonate by itself, although it is not very sensitive. Larger amounts and mixtures of ammonium perchlorate with metal powders or organic substances are more likely to detonate.
Sources: Ammonium perchlorate is usually bought from chemical suppliers or from dedicated pyro suppliers. Fine ammonium perchlorate powder is a regulated substance in most countries and cannot easily be bought or transported. Since it is such a usefull chemical in pyrotechnics it can be worth the time and effort to try to prepare it at home. This can be done by first making sodium perchlorate followed by double decomposition with ammonium chloride (other ammonium compounds can be used). The preparation of sodium perchlorate is most easily accomplished by electrolysis, the procedure for which is described elsewhere on this page.
6.4 Barium carbonate:
Formula: BaCO3
Description: Barium carbonate is used both in white and green color compositions. When chlorine donors are present in a composition a green color will result from the formation of BaCl+ in the flame. Without chlorine donors BaO will be formed which emits white light. Barium carbonate is convenient to use in chlorate based color compositions since it will neutralize residual acid which reduces the risk of spontaneous ignition.
Hazards: Most barium compounds are very poisonous, especially the more soluble barium compounds such as the chlorate and nitrate. A dust mask should be worn at all times when working with barium carbonate.
Sources: Barium carbonate is cheaply available in kilogram quantities from ceramic supply shops. However, this material is often contaminated with small amounts of barium sulfide which are left over from the production process. Therefore, ceramics grade barium carbonate should never be used in mixtures incompatible with sulfides such as chlorate based mixtures. Barium carbonate is not easily made at home.
6.5 Barium chlorate:
Formula: BaClO3
Description: Barium chlorate is used as an oxidiser in green color compositions. Fierce burning and high color purity compositions can be made with it.
Hazards: Barium chlorate is poisonous and a dust mask should be worn at all times when handling it. Barium chlorate should never be mixed with sulfur or sulfides or allowed to come in contact with mixtures containg sulfur or sulfides since this could result in spontaneous ignition. (Sulfur reacts with water and air to form small amounts of sulfuric acid. Sulfuric acid and chlorates react producing ClO2, an explosive gas which will ignite many organic materials on contact). Mixtures made with barium chlorate are often especially sensitive to friction and shock (even more so than potassium chlorate based mixtures) and should be handled with extra care.
Sources: Barium chlorate is usually purchased from chemical suppliers or from dedicated pyro suppliers. It can be made at home from sodium chlorate and barium chloride by double decomposition. Barium chlorate can also be prepared from barium chloride by electrolysis in a process analogous to that used for preparing sodium chlorate.
6.6 Barium nitrate:
Formula: BaNO3
Description: Barium nitrate is used as an oxidiser in both white and green color compositions. When chlorine donors are present in a composition a green color will result from the formation of BaCl+ in the flame. Without chlorine donors BaO will be formed which emits bright white light. Barium nitrate is seldom used as the sole oxidiser in green color compositions. It is usually combined with perchlorates to improve the color and increase the burning rate.
Hazards: Barium nitrate is poisonous and a dust mask should be worn at all times when handling it. Mixtures of metal powders and barium nitrate sometimes heat up spontaneously and may ignite, especially when moist. This can usually be prevented by the addition of small amounts of boric acid (1 to 2%). It is advisable to avoid using water to bind such compositions. Red gum or shellac with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer are preffered binder and solvents.
Sources: Barium nitrate may be prepared from nitric acid or ammonium nitrate and barium carbonate, which is available from ceramic supply stores.
6.7 Barium sulfate:
Formula: BaSO4
Description: Barium sulfate is used as a high-temperature oxidiser in some metal based green color compositions.
Hazards: Unlike many other barium compounds, barium sulfate is not very poisonous due to its low solubility in water.
Sources: Barium sulfate may be precipitated from a solution of a soluble barium salt, such as barium nitrate or chloride, and a sulfate. Magnesium and potassium sulfate are both cheaply available as fertilizer and are convenient to use. The precipitated barium sulfate is a very fine powder which may be rinsed by repeated washings with hot water, settling and decanting. A final washing in the filter with
acetone or ethanol will allow it to dry quickly. Do not use sulfuric acid to precipitate barium sulfate as this may result in the inclusion of acid droplets in the precipitated particles which can lead to spontaneous ignition of some mixtures.
6.8 Boric acid:
Formula: H3BO3
Description: Boric acid is a white powder which is used as an additive to compositions containing aluminum or magnesium and a nitrate. The metal powder can reduce the nitrate to an amide which will react with the metal powder in a very exothermic reaction that can lead to spontaneous ignition of the composition. This process is often accompanied by a smell of ammonia and is most likely to occur with wet compositions. Addition of a few percent boric acid can often prevent this reaction from taking place since it neutralizes the very basic amides forming ammonia and a borate. It is also advisable to avoid using a water soluble binder for these composition. Using red gum or shellac with alcohol or nitrocellulose lacquer is safer.
Hazards: Boric acid is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Boric acid is cheaply and in kilogram quantities available from ceramic supply shops. It is also sold in many drug stores at a somewhat higher price, but since only small quantities are needed the price is not really important.
6.9 Calcium sulphate:
Formula: CaSO4.x H2O where x= 0, 2, 3 or 5
Description: The trihydrate is commonly known as plaster of paris. The dihydrate occurs as a mineral known as gypsum . Calcium sulphate can be used as a high temperature oxidiser in orange color compositions. Excellent strobe compositions can be made with it.
Hazards: Calcium sulphate is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Plaster can be used as is in strobe compositions, but is better to remove the water which is easily accomplished by heating.
6.10 Dextrin:
Formula: mixture of polysacharides
Description: Dextrine is one of the most commonly used binders in pyrotechincs as it is very cheap and readily available. It is water soluble and can produce rock hard stars.
Hazards: Colophonium is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Dextrine is easily prepared from starch. Potato and corn starch will both work fine. The starch is spread out on a sheet in a layer about 1 cm thick and placed in the oven. The oven is then heated to 220°C for several hours. The dextrine will turn slightly yellowish brown. One way to check if all the starch has been converted is to dissolve a small sample in boiling hot water and add a drop of KI3 solution. A blue color indicates presence of starch, which means the conversion hasn't completed yet. KI3 solution is conveniently prepared by dissolving a crystal of elemental iodine in a potassium iodide solution.
6.11 Ethanol:
Formula: CH3CH2OH
Description: Ethanol is used as a solvent. Red gum and shellac, two common binders both dissolve in ethanol well. Ethanol/water mixtures are also often used since the ethanol increases the 'wetness' of the water (it reduces the surface tension of the water) and reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.
Hazards: Ethanol is flammable and volatile. Ethanol vapour is heavier than air and spreads over the ground. Provide adequate ventilation when working with ethanol.
Sources: Chemically pure ethanol can be quite expensive due to increased tax, unless it is used for laboratory purposes. Denaturated alcohol (usually a mixture of ethanol and methanol) has been made undrinkable and therefore a lot cheaper. It can be used for pyro purposes. Some types of denaturated alcohol exist with other chemicals mixed in besides methanol to make it undrinkable and recognisable as such (colorants etc). I have no idea what these extra additives are and wheter they can cause problems in compositions. I have been using 'spiritus' (a well known type of denaturated alcohol in the Netherlands) for several years without problems.
6.12 Iron:
Formula: Fe
Description: Iron powder is used for spark effects, mainly in fountains and sparklers. It produces golden yellow branching sparks. Not every iron alloy will work equally well. Iron alloys with a high carbon content generally work best. Stainless steel will produce hardly any sparks.
Hazards: Iron needs to be protected before use in pyrotechnic compositions. Otherwise it will corrode and render the composition useless or even dangerous. Iron containing compositions are generally best kept dry and not bound with water soluble binders. Iron can be coated with linseed or tung oil. The latter was used in ancient China (and may still be used today). Linseed is very convenient to use and easy to obtain. Blackpowder-like compositions (ie Charcoal/sulfur/saltpeter based) with added metal, such as they are often used in fountains, are more sensitive than the composition without added metal. Extra caution, especially when pressing or ramming, should be excersised.
Sources: Iron turnings can often be had for free from places were iron is used for construction. Drilling, sawing etc produces a powder with wide range of particles. This powder is treated with mineral oil to remove oil and grease, sieved, and then coated with linseed oil.
6.13 Iron oxide (red):
Formula: Fe2O3
Description: Red iron oxide is used as a catalyst in composite and whistling rocket propellant formulations. It is also added to some glitter formulations and used for 'thermite', a mixture that produces enormous amounts of heat, forming molten iron.
Hazards: Red iron oxide is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Common rust is not iron oxide. It is a mixture of oxides and hydroxides. A cheap source for red iron oxide is the ceramics supply shop.
6.14 Lead tetraoxide:
Formula: Pb3O4
Description: Lead tetraoxide, sometimes called 'lead minium', is used to make crackling microstars. The composition is very sensitive, explosive and poisonous. It is in fact one of the most dangerous mixtures used commonly in modern pyrotechnics. An alternative mixture based on bismuth trioxide exists (which is less poisonous), but the high price of bismuth trioxide restricts its use.
Hazards: Lead tetraoxide, like most lead compounds, is extremely poisonous. Lead is an accumulative neurotoxin and extreme care should be taken to prevent direct contact. Lead tetraoxide may be absorbed by inhalation and ingestion. Wear a respirator, gloves, and protective clothing.
Sources: Lead tetraoxide may be prepared from a solution of lead nitrate and sodium hydroxide. Note that the procedure involves extremely corrosive and poisonous chemicals and should only be attempted by those who have access to (and know how to use) the right equipment and can handle the waste properly. Prepare a concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide by dissolving 300 grams of sodium hydroxide in water. The solution will heat up during this. To prevent it from boiling suddenly add only small portions at a time. When all has dissolved, allow it to cool down to room temperature. Dissolve 50 grams of lead nitrate in 200 ml of water, and slowly add the sodium hydroxide solution to this solution while stirring continuesly. A white precipitate will form first, which will turn orange when all sodium hydroxide solution has been added. Stir this solution well for another hour, and then allow the lead tetraoxide to settle. Carefully decant the supernatant, add boiling hot water to the residue, stir, allow to settle and decant again. Repeat this 5 more times. Then filter and rinse the lead tetraoxide in the filter several times with hot water.
6.15 Manganese dioxide:
Formula: MnO2
Description: Manganese dioxide can be used as a catalyst in composite and whistling rocket propellant formulations. A thermite-like mixture can also be made with it. The manganese dioxide thermite burns more slowly than the iron oxide based mixture with a bright white glow.
Hazards: Mangese dioxide is poisonous and leaves brown stains on glassware etc. The stains can be removed with dilute hydrochloric acid (of course, only when the stained object is not attacked by it).
Sources: Mangese dioxide can be obtained from old batteries or from the ceramics supply store. The mangese dioxide in batteries is mixed with several other compounds from which it must be separated. An easy, though messy way to do this is as follows: Find a couple of depleted carbon-zinc batteries. Only carbon-zinc type batteries will do. Do not use other types such as rechargable or lithium based batteries. These, especially the rechargable ones, contain extremely dangerous and/or poisonous compounds such as cadmium, mercury and metallic lithium. Carbon-zinc batteries may contain small amounts of mercury as well, especially the older types, so precautions should be taken to prevent skin and eye contact and to prevent breathing or swallowing of dust. So: wear your dust mask, glasses, gloves and old clothing. Then carefully take the battery apart. You'll find a greyish white (zinc oxide) or metallic coating (zinc metal) inside, depending on wheter the battery is empty or not. This surrounds a black, sometimes wet, mass. This black stuff contains among other things the mangese dioxide. Peel the coating off and save the black mass. There is also a black rod inside attached to the anode. This is a graphite rod and can be safed for chlorate (and maybe perchlorate) preparations. We'll assume you use 2 batteries from here on. (if not, adjust amounts accordingly). Place the black mass in 200 ml of 30% hydrochloric acid. The manganese dioxide will slowly dissolve, giving off chlorine gas. Chlorine gas is dangerous: it attacks the lungs and is poisonous. Do this outside or better yet: in a fume hood if you have one. Allow the manganese dioxide several days to dissolve. The solution is then filtered which should yield a clear solution of manganese(III)chloride. In a separate container dissolve 200 grams of sodium hydroxide in a liter of bleach. Add the manganese(III)chloride solution slowly to the bleach/sodium hydroxide solution. This results in a brown precipitate of manganese dioxide which is filtered, rinsed several times with boiling hot water and dried.
6.16 Magnalium:
Formula: Alloy of magnesium and aluminum, usually 50:50. Sometimes written: MgAl
Description: Magnalium is a very brittle alloy of magnesium and aluminum. Some common uses are in for spark effects, in strobing compositions and in crackling stars. It is commonly alloyed in
Hazards: Magnalium dust is harmfull and a dust mask should be worn when handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates and mangalium sometimes heat up and may ignite spontaneously, especially when moist. This can usually be prevented by treating the magnalium with potassium dichromate. This is done by boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate solution. Adding fine potassium dichromate powder to such compositions may also help.
Sources: Magnalium can be made at home. Plan well and prepare yourself for working with molten metals that may ignite if you plan to make it at home. If the metal ignites expect it to burn very brightly and hot. Explosions are not common but may occur if the hot melt is allowed to contact water or oxidisers. Do it outside and away from anything flammable. If it ignites don't try to extuingish it but get away from the burning mass and let it burn out and cool before approaching it. Don't look directly into the burning metal as it may damage your eyes. Start by melting aluminum in a stainless steel container. The molten metal should be covered with a blanked of inert gas. In this case neither nitrogen nor carbon dioxide will function as an inert gas. It is best to get a cylinder of argon gas at a welding supply store. Using an electric furnace for the melting is very convenient and allows good control over the temperature. To the molten aluminum magnesium is added in solid form. The melt should be stirred from time to time. When all the magnesium has melted, the melt is allowed to solidify. It is then easily crushed up in smaller chunks with an heavy hammer. These chunks are crushed further and sieved. It can also be ball milled into a fine powder using steel media but this can be dangerous since the metal powder can become pyrophoric.
6.17 Magnesium:
Formula: Mg
Description: Magnesium powder is used in a wide variety of compositions, both for spark effects and 'normal' fuel purposes. Relatively coarse magnalium is used for spark effects. In flares and some bright
colored star compositions it functions as a normal fuel. It is superior to aluminum in color compositions since MgCl2 and MgO are more easily vaporised than the corresponding aluminum compounds. This reduces the amount of black-body radiation and improves the color purity.
Hazards: Magnesium dust is harmfull and a dust mask should be worn when handling fine dust. Mixtures containing nitrates and magnesium sometimes heat up and may ignite spontaneously, especially when moist. This can usually be prevented by treating the magnesium with potassium dichromate. This is done by boiling the magnalium in a 5% potassium dichromate solution. The magnesium will turn brown when this is done. Adding fine potassium dichromate powder to such compositions may also help.
Sources: Making magnesium at home is very difficult. Magnesium can be bought in boating supply stores. It is used to prevent corrosion of a ships hull. For that purpose it is welded to the hull. The lower position of magnesium in the electrochemical series will make the magnesium corrode before the steel will. Making such a block of magnesium into a fine powder will not be easy. Filing or cutting and ball milling may be tried. Ball milling of metals can be dangerous however since the metal can become pyrophoric.
6.18 Methanol:
Formula: CH3OH
Description: Methanol is used as a solvent, much in the same way ethanol is used. Red gum and shellac, two common binders both dissolve in methanol. Methanol/water mixtures are also often used since the methanol increases the 'wetness' of the water (it reduces the surface tension of the water) and reduces the solubility of common oxidisers.
Hazards: Methanol is flammable, volatile and toxic. Methanol vapour is heavier than air and spreads over the ground. Provide adequate ventilation when working with methanol
Sources: Methanol is often more cheaply and easily availble than ethanol because it is toxic and no extra taxes are charged for it. It finds use in a certain type of camping stove and can often be bought in camping supply stores.
6.19 Parlon:
Formula: (C4H6Cl2)n
Description: Parlon is a acetone-soluble polymere that is used as a chlorine donor and binder. It is a good example of one of the new chemicals that has become available in the past few decades for use in compositions.
Hazards: Parlon is not particularly dangerous.
Sources: Parlon seems to be available from dedicated pyro suppliers only.
6.20 Potassium benzoate:
Formula: KC7H5O2
Description: Potassium benzoate is commonly used in whistle compositions. It is a white powder
Hazards: Potassium benzoate is not particularly dangerous.
Sources: Potassium benzoate can be prepared from benzoic acid and potassium carbonate or hydroxide. Benzoic acid is not very soluble, but both potassium carbonate and hydroxide are. Dissolve 140.2g potassium carbonate or 56.1g potassium carbonate in 250 ml water, and add 146g benzoic acid. Bring the mixture to a boil. If potassium carbonate is used, CO2 gas will evolve. Continue boiling untill all benzoic acid has dissolved, occasionally adding some water to make up for what has evaporated. When all benzoic acid has dissolved, continue boiling untill the first crystals of potassium benzoate are observed (ie the saturation point has been reached). Then allow the solution to cool to room temperature. Potassium benzoate will crystalise in needle shaped crystals. Filter, and rinse the crystals twice with ice-cold water. The crystals may be dried in an oven at 100 deg C.
6.21 Potassium chlorate:
Formula: KClO3
Description: Potassium chlorate is a very common oxidiser in pyrotechnics, even though it has some treacherous properties and other oxidisers would sometimes be safer to use. Part of the reason of its popularity in commercial pyrotechnics is that it is cheap and easily available. The large scale production of this compound made the first quality colored fireworks possible, about a century ago.
Hazards: Potassium chlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder. Compositions made with potassium chlorate tend to be more sensitive than those based on nitrates and perchlorates and should therefore be handled accordingly. Potassium chlorate, or any chlorate for that matter, should never be used in combination with sulfur and sulfides. Mixtures containing both are very sensitive and may spontaneously ignite. In general, when using chlorates great care should be taken to avoid contamination of other compositions or tools. Also read the safety section for more information on this problem.
Sources: Potassium chlorate can be prepared at home. For this purpose, sodium chlorate is prepared first by electrolysis. It may also be obtained as a herbicide in some countries (France, for example) Then,
by double decomposition with potassium chloride, potassium chlorate is prepared from this solution. The product is recrystallised, dried and powdered.
This chemicals is used in many explosives. Potassium chlorate can also be made into plastique explosives(*See Chapter 8-High Order Explosives). Common household bleach contains a small amount of potassium chlorate, which can be extracted in the procedure that follows.
Materials:
-A heat source (hot plate, stove, etc.) -A hydrometer, or battery hydrometer -A large Pyrex, or enameled steel container (to weigh chemicals) -Potassium chloride(sold as a salt substitute at health and nutrition stores)
Procedure:
Take one gallon of bleach, place it in the container, and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams of potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Constantly check the solution being heated with the hydrometer, and boil until you get a reading of 1.3. If using a battery hydrometer, boil until you read a FULL charge.
Take the solution and allow it to cool in a refrigerator until it is between room temperature and 0øC. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals.
Take the crystals that have been saved, and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 milliliters distilled water. Heat this solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals that form upon cooling. This process of purification is called "fractional crystallization". These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate.
*Powder these to the consistency of face powder, and heat gently to drive off all moisture.
6.22 Potassium dichromate:
Formula: K2Cr2O7
Description: Potassium dichromate is a bright orange crystalline subststance that is used to treat magnesium powder. The treatment makes magnesium more resistant to spontaneous reactions that could result in lower reliability of the mixture or spontaneous ignition.
Hazards: Potassium dichromate is toxic and a carcinogen. It should be handled with extreme care and proper protective clothing.
Sources: Potassium dichromate seems to be available from chemical suppliers and dedicated pyro suppliers only.
6.23 Potassium perchlorate:
Formula: KClO4
Description: Potassium perchlorate is a very common oxidiser in pyrotechnics. Composition based on perchlorates tend to be less sensitive than those based on chlorates, and perchlorates can be used with
sulfur and sulfides. For these reasons potassium perchlorate is much preferred above chlorates. Drawback is its slightly higher price.
Hazards: Potassium perchlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder.
Sources:Potassium perchlorate can be prepared at home. For this purpose, sodium perchlorate is prepared first by electrolysis. Then, by double decomposition with potassium chloride, potassium perchlorate is prepared from this solution. The product is recrystallised, dried and powdered.
6.24 Potassium Picrate:
Description: Potassium picrate was first prepared back in the mid 17th century by J.R. Glauber. The first use for potassium picrate came in 1869, it found its way into explosives, propellents, primers, and pyrotechnics. This explosive is stable and resists shock, friction, etc. It will deflagrate if subjected to flame, and in mixtures with oxidizing agents, it will only burn if ignited, but it has lower sensitivity. This is not a very powerful explosive, it is more suited to pyrotechnics and bullet primers.
CHEMICALS nitric acid
APPARATUS beaker
picric acid potassium carbonate
Potassium picrate can be prepared by Glaubers original method of dissolving wood in nitric acid then neutralizing the resulting mixture with potassium carbonate. For the modern method, neutralize a hot aqueous solution of potassium carbonate with a hot picric acid solution in a beaker of suitable size, test
the solution with litmus paper until neutral. Filter the crystals that separate when the solution cools to collect them and allow to dry.
6.25 Polyvinyl chloride:
Formula: [C2H3Cl]n
Description: Like parlon and saran, PVC is a polymeric chlorine donor and fuel. It can be used in the form of a fine powder or as a solution in tetrahydrofuran (THF). It is sometimes used as a binder, but it is very brittle. Small amounts of plasticiser (dioctyl phtalate is common) may be added to improve the mechanical properties.
Hazards: PVC itself is not particularly dangerous or toxic. Dioctyl phtalate is a suspected carcinogen however and THF is a very flamable and volatile liquid.
Sources: As an alternative to the PVC powder available from chemical suppliers and dedicated pyro suppliers, PVC glue may also be used. It is usually sold in hardware stores and comes in two varieties: gelling or gap-filling and normal. Both are essentially a concentrated solution of PVC. I have no experience with the gelling variety, but the normal variety can succesfully be used in compositions. The gelling variety may be better suited for pyro purposes since it seems it contains more PVC. Another possibility is to use 'Sculpy' or 'Fimo' clay. These modelling clays consist of PVC with a large amount of plasticiser. The plasticiser may affect the color of a composition negatively, but reasonable results can still be obtained with it. It can simply be kneaded into a composition with some effort. This type of clay is usually hardened by heating it in an oven, but do not be tempted to do this with pyrotechnic mixtures as they may ignite.
6.26 PICRIC ACID:
Picric acid, also known as Tri-Nitro-Phenol, or T.N.P., is a military explosive that is most often used as a booster charge to set off another less sensitive explosive, such as T.N.T. It another explosive that is fairly simple to make, assuming that one can acquire the concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids. Its procedure for manufacture is given in many college chemistry lab manuals, and is easy to follow. The main problem with picric acid is its tendency to form dangerously sensitive and unstable picrate salts, such as potassium picrate. For this reason, it is usually made into a safer form, such
as ammonium picrate, also called explosive D. A social deviant would probably use a formula similar to the one presented here to make picric acid.
MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
_________
_________
phenol (9.5 g)
500 ml flask
concentrated
adjustable heat source
sulfuric acid (12.5 ml)
1000 ml beaker
concentrated nitric
acid (38 ml)
distilled water
or other container
suitable for boiling in
filter paper
and funnel
glass stirring rod
1) Place 9.5 grams of phenol into the 500 ml flask, and carefully add 12.5
ml of concentrated sulfuric acid and stir the mixture.
2) Put 400 ml of tap water into the 1000 ml beaker or boiling container and
bring the water to a gentle boil.
3) After warming the 500 ml flask under hot tap water, place it in the boiling
water, and continue to stir the mixture of phenol and acid for about thirty
minutes. After thirty minutes, take the flask out, and allow it to cool for
about five minutes.
4) Pour out the boiling water used above, and after allowing the container to
cool, use it to create an ice bath, similar to the one used in section 3.13,
steps 3-4. Place the 500 ml flask with the mixed acid an phenol in the ice
bath. Add 38 ml of concentrated nitric acid in small amounts, stirring the
mixture constantly. A vigorous but "harmless" reaction should occur. When
the mixture stops reacting vigorously, take the flask out of the ice bath.
5) Warm the ice bath container, if it is glass, and then begin boiling more tap
water. Place the flask containing the mixture in the boiling water, and heat
it in the boiling water for 1.5 to 2 hours.
6) Add 100 ml of cold distilled water to the solution, and chill it in an ice
bath until it is cold.
7) Filter out the yellowish-white picric acid crystals by pouring the solution
through the filter paper in the funnel. Collect the liquid and dispose of it
in a safe place, since it is corrosive.
8) Wash out the 500 ml flask with distilled water, and put the contents of the
filter paper in the flask. Add 300 ml of water, and shake vigorously.
9) Re-filter the crystals, and allow them to dry.
10) Store the crystals in a safe place in a glass container, since they will
react with metal containers to produce picrates that could explode
spontaneously.
6.27 Red gum:
Formula: Mixture of compounds.
Description: Red gum, or accaroid resin, is one of the most commonly used binders. It is made from the excretions of a certain tree native to Australia. Red gum is soluble in ethanol and acetone.
Hazards: Red gum is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Red gum may be bought in artistic painting supply stores.
6.28 Sodium benzoate:
Formula: NaC7O2H5
Description: Sodium benzoate is a white solid that is used as a fuel. It's most common use is in 'whistle mix', a mixture of potassium perchlorate and either sodium or potassium benzoate.
Hazards: Sodium benzoate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Sodium benzoate can be made from sodium carbonate (soda) or sodium hydroxide and benzoic acid which is often more easily available than it's salts. Benzoic acid is only sparingly soluble in water. Dissolve either 425 g hydrated sodium carbonate (common household soda) or 30 g sodium hydroxide in water. Add 100 g of benzoic acid and boil the solution. The benzoic acid will slowly dissolve. During boiling, occasionally add water to make up for what has evaporated. If sodium carbonate was used, carbon dioxide gas will evolve. After all the benzoic acid has dissolved, continue boiling allowing the water to evaporate untill crystallisation begins. Then stop heating and allow the solution to cool slowly to room temperature. Needle-shaped crystals of sodium benzoate will form upon cooling. Cool the solution further to 0 deg C, filtrate and rinse the crystals with ice-cold water. Purify the product by recrystallisation from water.
6.29 Sodium chlorate:
Formula: NaClO3
Description: Sodium chlorate is hardly ever used in pyrotechnics, since it is very hygroscopic. It finds occasional use in composite rocket propellants. It is however very usefull as a starting point in the preparation of several other (less hygroscopic) chlorates for which reason it is included here.
Hazards: Sodium chlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder. Compositions made with sodium chlorate tend to be more sensitive than those based on nitrates and perchlorates and should therefore be handled accordingly. Sodium chlorate, or any chlorate for that matter, should never be used in combination with sulfur and sulfides. Mixtures containing both are very sensitive and may spontaneously ignite. In general, when using chlorates great care should be taken to avoid contamination of other compositions or tools. Also read the safety section for more information on this problem. Acidic solutions containing chlorates generate a very poisonous and explosive gas, ClO2.
Sources:Sodium chlorate can be prepared at home. It involves electrolysing a sodium chloride solution under certain circumstances. A description of the process, cell and anode design, etc. for home produciton may be found in the chlorate and perchlorate section of this page. In some countries, France for example, sodium chlorate may be obtained as a herbicide.
6.30 Sodium nitrate:
Formula: NaNO3
Description: Sodium nitrate finds occasional use as an oxidiser in flare and tracer compositions because of the high efficiency of light emmision that can be obtained with it, but its high hygroscopic nature limits its use. Sodium nitrate can be used to prepare potassium nitrate, a much less hygroscopic and more often used oxidiser.
Hazards: Sodium nitrate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: 95% pure sodium nitrate is available as a fertilizer. In the Netherlands this fertilizer is sold under the name 'chilisalpeter'. If required, it can be easily purified by recrystallisation.
6.31 Sodium perchlorate:
Formula: NaClO4
Description: Sodium perchlorate is hardly ever used in pyrotechnics, since it is very hygroscopic. It finds occasional use in composite rocket propellants. It is however very usefull as a starting point in the preparation of several other (less hygroscopic) perchlorates for which reason it is included here.
Hazards: Sodium perchlorate is toxic, and breathing protection should be worn when handling fine powder.
Sources:Sodium perchlorate can be prepared at home. It involves electrolysing a sodium chlorate solution under certain circumstances. A description of the process, cell and anode design, etc. for home produciton may be found in the chlorate and perchlorate section of this page.
6.32 Strontium carbonate:
Formula: SrCO3
Description: Strontium carbonate is used in combination with chlorine donors to produce red colors. It also acts as an acid neutraliser, for which reason it is prefered in chlorate based compositions (which may spontaneously ignite when traces of acid are present).
Hazards: Strontium carbonate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium carbonate is cheaply available in kilogram quantities from ceramic supply shops. However, this material is often contaminated with small amounts of strontium sulfide which are left over from the production process. Therefore, ceramics grade strontium carbonate should never be used in mixtures incompatible with sulfides such as chlorate based mixtures. Strontium carbonate is not easily made at home.
6.33 Strontium nitrate:
Formula: Sr(NO3)2
Description: Strontium nitrate is an oxidiser commonly employed in red color compositions in combination with chlorine donors.
Hazards: Strontium nitrate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium nitrate may be prepared from nitric acid or ammonium nitrate and strontium carbonate, which is available from ceramic supply stores. Use an excess of strontium carbonate to
ensure complete neutralisation of acid and recrystallise the product from a slightly alkaline solution to prevent the inclusion of acid solvent droplets in the crystals.
6.34 Strontium sulfate:
Formula: SrSO4
Description: Strontium sulfate is used as a high-temperature oxidiser in some metal based red color compositions.
Hazards: Strontium sulfate is not particularly dangerous or toxic.
Sources: Strontium sulfate may be precipitated from a solution of a soluble strontium salt, such as strontium nitrate or chloride, and a sulfate. Magnesium and potassium sulfate are both cheaply available as fertilizer and are convenient to use. The precipitated strontium sulfate is a very fine powder which may be rinsed by repeated washings with hot water, settling and decanting. A final washing in the filter with acetone or ethanol will allow it to dry quickly. Do not use sulfuric acid to precipitate strontium sulfate as this may result in the inclusion of acid droplets in the precipitated particles which can lead to spontaneous ignition of some mixtures.
6.35 Sulfuric acid:
Formula: H2SO4
Description: Sulfuric acid itself finds no use in pyrotechnics, but it can be used in the preparation of an number of usefull compounds for which reason it is included here.
Hazards: Sulfuric acid and its fumes are extremely corrosive. Wear proper protective clothing (gloves, apron and a face shield are minimal) and provide adequate ventilation when working with it. Reactions with metals often produce flammable hydrogen gas (hydrogen). The presence of acid can cause spontaneous reactions in many pyrotechnic mixtures and should at all times be avoided. When working with sulfuric acid, have no chemicals or compositions nearby to prevent contamination. Make sure all traces of acid in chemicals produced with sulfuric acid are removed if they are to be used in pyrotechnics compositions.
Sources: Sulfur is available from agricultural supply stores where it is sold as a fungicide under the name 'dusting sulfur'. It is a fine powder mixed with a few percent of calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate may disturb delicate color compositions, but for most purposes dusting sulfur works well. If a purer form of sulfur is required, sulfur may also be obtained from drug stores sometimes. However, these often sell 'flowers of sulfur', which has been purified by sublimation and which contains some acid. This needs to be neutralised before use as it could cause spontaneous ignition. To do this, allow 100g of this sulfur to soak in a liter of water/household ammonia (1:5). Stir well occasionally and measure the pH. It should still be alkaline after two days, after which time the sulfur may be filtered and washed with hot water to remove the ammonia. Check the pH of the washing water while filtering. After it has become neutral, flush the water away with ethanol and allow the sulfur to dry. Mix the dry powder with 2% magnesium carbonate to neutralise any acid that may be formed in reactions with the atmosphere.
6.36 Zinc:
Formula: Zn
Description: Metallic zinc is used in rocket propellants, for spark effects and in white smoke compositions. Zinc powder is quite heavy and zinc-based stars often require heavier lift or burst charges to propell them.
Hazards: Zinc powder can spontanesouly heat up when wet.
Sources: Zinc powder is used in paints for the protection of steel. Spray cans containing an suspension of zinc powder are commonly sold in hardware stores. The zinc powder may be extracted by emptying the spray can in a large container, allowing the powder to settle, decanting the solvent and paints and repeated washing with paint thinner or acetone.
6.37 Zinc oxide:
Formula: ZnO
Description: Zinc oxide is used to produce white smoke.
Hazards: Zinc oxide is not particularly toxic or dangerous.
Sources: Zinc oxide is usually available as a white pigment called 'zinc white' in artistic paint stores. It can also be prepared by igniting a piece of zinc sheet.
6.38 Acetylene:
Description: Acetylene is used in cutting torches and is extremely flammable.
Hazards: An acetylene explosion can be very harmful and dangerous. Improper use can result in death.
Sources: Can be found in sheet metal shops or any where a cutting torch is used, as acetylene is the fuel used in cutting torches.
This gas can be produced by taking calcium carbide and submerging it in water, in a flask. The acetylene gas is then collected by putting balloon over the mouth of the flask.
6.39 Calcium Carbide:
Description:
Sources: Can be purchased online as ‘Bangsite’, a chemical used in novelty cannons; or from other chemical suppliers.
6.40 Perchlorates:
A perchlorate is a chemical functional group, explosive more often then not, with the formula -ClO4. Since so many pyrotechnic compounds seem to use a perchlorate somewhere in the mix, it seemed
logical to have them here. It is easy to confuse perchlorates with chlorates, chlorites, and hypochlorites, their formulas are ClO4, ClO3, ClO2, and ClO respectively. Perchlorate salts are simply the product of a base with perchloric acid, although organic perchlorates exist as well. One thing perchlorates share in common is that they are strong oxidizers, they should be kept away from any reducible materials and excessive heat. Metal perchlorates tend to be more stable than organic perchlorates. One of the first perchlorate salts to be identified was potassium perchlorate, other salts of interest include aluminum perchlorate, ammonium perchlorate, barium perchlorate, cadmium perchlorate, calcium perchlorate, cobalt perchlorate, copper perchlorate, hydrazine diperchlorate, iron perchlorate, lead perchlorate, lithium perchlorate, magnesium perchlorate, manganese perchlorate, mercury perchlorate, nickel perchlorate, nitrosyl perchlorate, nitryl perchlorate, silver perchlorate, sodium perchlorate, strontium perchlorate, titanium tetraperchlorate, uranyl perchlorate, and zinc perchlorate. Some of these are mere curiosities, their chemical precursors will not be in the synthesis section. The usual data on safety and use of these compounds has been omitted as well in the interest of keeping this lab brief.
6.40-1 aluminum perchlorate:
Al(ClO4)3 melting point decomposes at 300 °C molecular mass 325.37 g/mol density 2.209 g/mL Set up a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask for refluxing and liquid addition. The top of the reflux condenser needs to be capped with a drying tube to protect the reaction from moisture. Heat to reflux some silver perchlorate in anhydrous methyl alcohol, then slowly add a solution of aluminum chloride in methyl alcohol drop by drop from the addition funnel. A precipitate of silver chloride will appear, filter the product to remove the silver chloride and heat the remaining solution at 150 °C to remove the methyl alcohol and crystallize the aluminum perchlorate.
6.40-2 ammonium perchlorate:
chemical formula NH3ClO4 melting point decomposes at 269 °C molecular mass 117.49 g/mol density 1.9518 g/mL Ammonium perchlorate can be prepared in the lab by carefully neutralizing perchloric acid with either gaseous ammonia or aqueous ammonium hydroxide. Filter the solution to collect the crystals of ammonium perchlorate, recrystallize them from water, and dry at 110 °C until a constant weight is obtained.
6.40-3 barium perchlorate:
Ba(ClO4)2 melting point 505 °C molecular mass 336.27 g/mol density 3.681 g/mL Anhydrous barium perchlorate is prepared by heating a mixture of solid barium chloride and nitrosyl perchlorate, or by heating a mixture of barium carbonate and ammonium perchlorate.
6.40-4 cadmium perchlorate:
Cd(ClO4)2 melting point
290 °C molecular mass 311.30 g/mol Anhydrous cadmium perchlorate can be prepared by mixing together cadmium nitrate with anhydrous perchloric acid and 100% nitric acid.
6.40-5 calcium perchlorate:
Ca(ClO4)2 melting point 220 °C molecular mass 238.98 g/mol Anhydrous calcium perchlorate can be prepared by heating a mixture of 100 g of calcium carbonate with 235 g of ammonium perchlorate. Ammonium carbonate will be evolved as a gas, leaving behind pure calcium perchlorate.
6.40-6 cobalt perchlorate:
Co(ClO4)2 molecular mass 257.83 g/mol density 3.327 g/mL The hexahydrate of cobalt perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving calcium carbonate, or calcium oxide, in aqueous perchloric acid. Evaporation of the solution yields crystals of cobalt perchlorate.
6.40-7 copper perchlorate:
Cu(ClO4)2 melting point 82.3 °C molecular mass 262.43 g/mol density 2.225 g/mL Anhydrous copper perchlorate is prepared by heating in vacuum at 200 °C a mixture of nitrosyl perchlorate and your choice of either copper monoxide, copper dichloride, or copper nitrate. It can also be prepared by reacting copper powder with nitrosyl perchlorate in an organic solvent.
6.40-8 hydrazine diperchlorate:
N2H4.2HClO4 melting point 191 °C molecular mass 232.97 g/mol density 2.21 g/mL Hydrazine diperchlorate, or HDP, can be prepared by reacting equimolar amounts of aqueous barium perchlorate with hydrazine sulfate. Filter to remove the precipitate of barium sulfate, and evaporate the filtrate on a water bath to yield crystals of HDP.
6.40-9 iron perchlorate:
Fe(ClO4)2 melting point explodes molecular mass 254.75 g/mol Iron perchlorate is prepared by reacting 70% perchloric acid with iron sulfide, or iron sulfate, followed by evaporation of the solution. Heat the solution very gently to evaporate, strong heating can cause an explosion.
6.40-10 lead perchlorate:
Pb(ClO4)2 melting point 83 °C molecular mass 406.09 g/mol density 2.6 g/mL The trihydrate of lead perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving lead carbonate in aqueous perchloric acid and evaporation the solution until crystals appear.
6.40-11 lithium perchlorate:
Li(ClO4)2 molecular mass 205.84 g/mol The trihydrate of lithium perchlorate can be prepared by reacting lithium sulfate with barium perchlorate in solution, then evaporating the solution to yield the crystals. It can also be prepared by reacting lithium carbonate with aqueous perchloric acid.
6.40-12 magnesium perchlorate:
Mg(ClO4)2 melting point 224-520 °C molecular mass 223.21 g/mol density 2.21 g/mL The hexahydrate of magnesium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving pure magnesium oxide in dilute perchloric acid. Evaporate the solution until fumes appear, then cool. Filter to collect the crystals of magnesium perchlorate that should have formed, and recrystallize them from water.
6.40-13 manganese perchlorate:
Mn(ClO4)2 melting point
explodes molecular mass 253.84 g/mol The hexahydrate of manganese perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving manganese hydroxide, or manganese carbonate, in dilute perchloric acid. Evaporate the solution until crystals appear.
6.40-14 mercury perchlorate:
Hg(ClO4)2 molecular mass 399.49 g/mol Anhydrous mercury perchlorate can be prepared by adding a solution of perchloric acid in trifluoroacetic acid to and mercury salt in trifluoroacetic acid. Carefully evaporate the solution until crystals form.
6.40-16 nickel perchlorate:
Ni(ClO4)2 melting point explodes molecular mass 257.61 g/mol density 3.4 g/mL The hexaammoniate of nickel perchlorate can be prepared by adding a solution of 14 g of sodium perchlorate in 50 mL of water to a solution of 23.8 g of nickel dichloride and 5.4 g of ammonium chloride
in 120 mL of water. Slowly add with stirring 60 mL of concentrated ammonium hydroxide. Cool this mixture for 4 hours with a salt-ice bath, then filter to collect the crystals of the perchlorate.
6.40-17 nitryl perchlorate:
NO2ClO4 melting point 135 °C molecular mass 161.45 g/mol Nitryl perchlorate can be prepared by distilling anhydrous perchloric acid, allowing the distillate to drip onto a large excess of dry dinitrogen pentoxide chilled to -80 °C (yes that's negative) and some nitromethane. The mixture is allowed to warm to room temperature, then kept under vacuum for 48 hours to remove any volatile contaminants.
6.40-18 potassium perchlorate:
KClO4 melting point 588 °C molecular mass 138.55 g/mol density 2.53574 g/mL Potassium perchlorate is prepared by slowly adding 50 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid to 2-5 g of potassium chlorate. The addition is slow to avoid explosion. Alternately, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, or chromium trioxide can be used instead of sulfuric acid. It can also be prepared by mixing potassium chloride and nitrosyl perchlorate in solid form and heating. A residue of potassium perchlorate will be left behind.
6.40-19 silver perchlorate:
AgClO4 melting point 486 °C molecular mass 207.32 g/mol density 2.806 g/mL Anhydrous silver perchlorate can be prepared by adding anhydrous perchloric acid to a solution of a silver salt dissolved in trifluoroacetic acid. It can also be prepared by dissolving silver oxide in aqueous perchloric acid and evaporating the solution until crystals appear.
6.40-20 sodium perchlorate:
NaClO4 melting point 473 °C molecular mass 122.44 g/mol density 2.5298 g/mL The monohydrate of sodium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving sodium carbonate in a slight excess of dilute perchloric acid. Evaporate some of the solution, then cool to 50 °C. The solid can be centrifuged, collected, and dried at 250 °C. The anhydrous can be obtained by recrystallizing from water above 53 °C.
6.40-21 strontium perchlorate:
Sr(ClO4)2 melting point decomposes molecular mass 286.52 g/mol density 2.973 g/mL The monohydrate of strontium perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving pure strontium nitrate in an excess of perchloric acid, and neutralizing the acid with strontium carbonate. Centrifuge to collect waste solids, and chill the liquid until crystals of the perchlorate appear.
6.40-22 titanium tetraperchlorate:
Ti(ClO4)4 molecular mass 445.70 g/mol Anhydrous titanium tetraperchlorate can be prepared by mixing 8 moles of anhydrous perchloric acid with 1 mole of titanium tetrachloride at -10 °C.
6.40-23 uranyl perchlorate:
UO2(ClO4)2 melting point 90 °C molecular mass
469.0 g/mol The hexahydrate of uranyl perchlorate can be prepared by dissolving ordinary hardware store brand uranium trioxide in 40% perchloric acid. Concentrate the solution on a water bath then chill to yield yellow crystals of the perchlorate.
6.40-24 zinc perchlorate:
Zn(ClO4)2 melting point 106 °C molecular mass 264.27 g/mol density 2.252 g/mL The hexahydrate of zinc perchlorate can be prepared by mixing solutions of zinc sulfate and barium perchlorate, filtering off the precipitate of barium sulfate, and evaporating the solution until crystals appear. It can also be prepared by zinc oxide, or zinc carbonate, in aqueous perchloric acid and evaporating the solution until crystals appear.
7.0 Low-Order Explosives
7.1 Acetone Peroxide:
Narrowing down a name for this compound is rather tricky. In the literature is is commonly referred to as acetone peroxide because it is typically a mixture of isomers. Other literature refers to it as tricycloacetoneperoxide, triacetonetriperoxide, TATP, AP, TCAP, and 3,3,6,6,9,9-hexamethyl-1,2,4,5,7,8hexoxonane. Many types of chemicals react with air and light to form explosive peroxides, usually this is a bad thing because their formation occurs without intent. A compound being distilled in the lab may explode if peroxides have formed, this is why a small amount of liquid is always left undistilled. This particular formula is intriguing because of its simplicity to make and the availability of the chemicals used. This simplicity has made it very popular among fools. Instruction derived from the Big Book of Mischief, and their loathsome breed, are lacking in detailed information that may determine a continued success or failure at this procedure. An abundance of misinformation has led to much confusion about acetone peroxide. The information presented here is directly from the original scientific references by the scientists who developed this explosive, not some "crap book" as listed above. There are actually two isomers of acetone peroxide, the first is tricyclo acetone peroxide, which is what will be made here, and the second is dicycloacetone peroxide. Both of these compounds are very similar, but the reaction seems to favor the tricyclo over the dicyclo at lower temperatures. The tricyclo isomer is more stable and more powerful than the dicyclo, that is why every effort is made to prepare the former. Both isomers will be made in the reaction with the tricyclo being the principal product. There are also a varity of other peroxides made in this synthesis; see the reaction scheme below. Acetone peroxide would have made a decent military explosive if not for its instability. It can not be stressed enough how unstable and dangerous acetone peroxide is. As instability goes this is among the most unstable of other explosives here. Acetone peroxide is formed by acid-catalyzed nucleophilic addition. That means an acid helps the peroxide, a nucleophile, react with the acetone, a ketone. A nucleophile is a "nucleus lover," or a chemical species that donates electrons. A ketone is a substance that has the molecular formula R2C=O where R is any carbon chain. There is some confusion as to which acid to use, the useless internet books frequently cite hydrochloric acid as the acid to use. The fact is, the acid is only a catalyst, it does not matter what acid is used, as long as it is a strong acid. Only inorganic acids fit this criteria. Since the original literature uses sulfuric acid, this lab uses sulfuric. You may use whichever acid is the most economical, or available. Acetone, hydrogen peroxide, and sulfuric acid, the chemicals used in this lab, are all available over the counter. That is the real reason this explosive is so popular, it is unfortunate that this explosive is so dangerous. Since 30% hydrogen peroxide is hard to obtain, substituting 10 times the volume of commercially available 3% peroxide is acceptable, although this will lower the yield a bit. It is also advisable to multiply the volume of acid by a corresponding value.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetone
500-mL beaker
ethyl ether
eye dropper
hydrogen peroxide
graduated cylinder
sulfuric acid
separatory funnel
distilled water
stirring rod/stirrer
thermometer
To a 500-mL beaker add 50 mL of acetone, then stir in 30 mL of 30% hydrogen peroxide. Place the beaker in a salt-ice bath and cool it to 5° C. After cooling, slowly add 3 mL of 75% sulfuric acid drop by drop with an eye dropper. Stir the mixture continuously while adding the acid, keep the temperature between 5° C to 10° C, stop adding acid if the temperature gets to high. It is very important that you moderate the reaction, high temperatures will lower your yield and cause the formation of the less useful dicyclo isomer. After adding all the acid, continue stirring for 5 minutes. Keep the mixture in the bath for 1 to 3 hours, or even up to 24 hours. After sitting, a white precipitate should have formed. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals, then wash them with 300-500 mL of water. Allow the crystals to dry before using, keep them damp if storing. For increased purity, add the precipitate to ethyl ether and let it dissolve. Place the ethyl ether solution in a separatory funnel and wash by shaking with three portions of cold water. Add the ethyl ether solution to a beaker and heat it on a steam bath to evaporate the ethyl ether. It should take about 3 hours to dry. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
I would suggest making this explosive shortly before it is desired to use it as it is never wise to keep unstable primary explosives around too long. It can be stored rather safely under water for some time. If allowed to stand in the open it will vaporize after some weeks. If stored in a sealed container it may crystallize into the crevaces of the cap which could detonate from the friction of opening. Mixing with RDX, PETN, or picric acid will improve the stability of this explosive.
7.2 Nitrogen Triiodide(touch explosives):
Nitrogen triiodide, also called ammonium triiodide, is a very unstable explosive that's not really practical due to its tremendous instability and cost. When wet it is stable but when dry the touch of a feather can cause it to detonate. Wet nitrogen triiodide should be spread out as much as possible or numerous small piles made. When dry the nitrogen triiodide will not explode from its own weight if spread out, a single large pile will.
The high cost of iodine, anywhere from $60 to $100 for a 500 g bottle, and its rarity, make it impractical from an economic standpoint. Those useless anarchist texts say iodine can be purchased in drug stores, it is sold in very tiny amounts heavily diluted with alcohol. The drug dealers have made iodine a restricted chemical, very few drug stores even carry it now, there are safer alternatives. The simplicity in which this explosive can be made gives wanna be punks an excuse to try. THIS EXPLOSIVE IS ONLY A CURIOSITY AND SHOULD NEVER BE MADE EXCEPT FOR A CONTROLLED DEMONSTRATION AS ABOVE! Stories abound about the dangers and ease of making nitrogen triiodide. There was a senior undergraduate student (no not me) given full access to a lab who made some, it exploded in a beaker showering him with glass. He was not wearing safety goggles. By some miracle the glass embedded in his face did not rip his eyes to shreds. Then there were the teenage hoodlums that stole some iodine from their high school chem lab, made the nitrogen triiodide at home, and brought it back to school. With a pop and puff of purple gas the teacher knew what it was. A word of advise to them for next time: Leaving the instructions on top of your desk in full view of teach will save you a lot of time scrubbing iodine stains during your next suspension. It is best to leave it dry where you want to detonate it ASAP.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ammonium hydroxide
beaker
iodine
stirring rod
water
graduated cylinder
Nitrogen triiodide is formed when iodine atoms displace the hydrogen atoms in ammonia NH3 + I = NI3. This reaction occurs when iodine crystals, I2 are soaked in excess ammonium hydroxide. To begin, select a small beaker or even a disposable cup about 50-mL in capacity. This process may permanently stain any container so I suggest the cup. Add 2 g of iodine crystals to the beaker, crush them as much as possible with a stirring rod. Add 40 mL ammonium hydroxide to the beaker. After 2 hours the reaction should be complete. Pour the solution over a filter to collect the crystals, any excess can be rinsed out of the beaker with water. Put the crystals where you want them immediately because there only
semblance of stability is when wet. Drying will take about 1 hour. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
7.3 FLASH POWDER:
Flash powder is a mixture of powdered zirconium metal and various oxidizers. It is extremely sensitive to heat or sparks, and should be treated with more care than black powder, with which it should NEVER be mixed. It is sold in small containers which must be mixed and shaken before use. It is very finely powdered, and is available in three speeds: fast, medium, and slow. The fast flash powder is the best for using in explosives or detonators. It burns very rapidly, regardless of confinement or packing, with a hot white "flash", hence its name. It is fairly expensive, costing about $11.00. It is sold in magic shops and theatre supply stores. Click here for info. on some of the dangers flash powder.
* For other flash powders, check out section-10.9 flash charges
7.4 BLACK POWDER:
First made by the Chinese for use in fireworks, black powder was first used in weapons and explosives in the 12th century. It is very simple to make, but it is not very powerful or safe. Only about 50% of black powder is converted to hot gasses when it is burned; the other half is mostly very fine burned particles. Black powder has one major problem: it can be ignited by static electricity. This is very bad, and it means that the material must be made with wooden or clay tools. Anyway, a misguided individual could manufacture black powder at home with the following procedure:
MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
_________
_________
potassium
clay grinding bowl
nitrate (75 g)
or
sodium nitrate (75 g)
sulfur (10 g)
and clay grinder
or
wooden salad bowl and wooden spoon
plastic bags (3)
charcoal (15 g)
300-500 ml beaker (1)
distilled water
coffee pot or heat source
1) Place a small amount of the potassium or sodium nitrate in the grinding bowl and grind it to a very fine powder. Do this to all of the potassium or sodium nitrate, and store the ground powder in one of the plastic bags.
2) Do the same thing to the sulfur and charcoal, storing each chemical in a separate plastic bag.
3) Place all of the finely ground potassium or sodium nitrate in the beaker, and add just enough boiling water to the chemical to get it all wet.
4) Add the contents of the other plastic bags to the wet potassium or sodium nitrate, and mix them well for several minutes. Do this until there is no more visible sulfur or charcoal, or until the mixture is universally black.
5) On a warm sunny day, put the beaker outside in the direct sunlight. Sunlight is really the best way to dry black powder, since it is never too hot, but it is hot enough to evaporate the water.
6) Scrape the black powder out of the beaker, and store it in a safe container. Plastic is really the safest container, followed by paper. Never store black powder in a plastic bag, since plastic bags are prone to generate static electricity.
7.5 Yellow powder:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, post by The Silent Observer
Preparation: The compounds are sometimes molten together, which appears to be a very dangerous operation.
Potassium nitrate................................3 Potassium carbonate...............................2 Sulfur............................................1
7.6 NITROCELLULOSE:
Nitrocellulose is usually called "gunpowder" or "guncotton". It is more stable than black powder, and it produces a much greater volume of hot gas. It also burns much faster than black powder when it is in a confined space. Finally, nitrocellulose is fairly easy to make, as outlined by the following procedure:
MATERIALS
EQUIPMENT
_________
_________
cotton (cellulose)
two (2) 200-300 ml beakers
concentrated
funnel and filter paper
nitric acid blue litmus paper concentrated sulfuric acid
distilled water
1) Pour 10 cc of concentrated sulfuric acid into the beaker. Add to acid.
this 10 cc of concentrated nitric
2) Immediately add 0.5 gm of cotton, and allow it to soak for exactly 3 minutes.
3) Remove the nitrocellulose and prepare water to wash it in.
4) Allow the material to dry, and then re-wash it.
5) After the cotton is neutral when tested with litmus paper, it is ready to be dried and stored.
7.7 FUEL-OXODIZER MIXTURES:
There are nearly an infinite number of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be produced by a misguided individual in his own home. Some are very effective and dangerous, while others are safer and less effective. A list of working fuel-oxodizer mixtures will be presented, but the exact measurements of each compound are debatable for maximum effectiveness. A rough estimate will be given of the percentages of each fuel and oxodizer:
Oxodizer, % by weight
Fuel, % by weight Speed #
Notes
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium chlorate 67%
sulfur 33%
5
friction/
impact sensitive rather unstable ________________________________________________________________________________ potassium chlorate 50%
sugar 35%
charcoal 15%
5
fairly slow
burning; unstable
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium chlorate 50%
sulfur 25%
magnesium or
8
extremely
unstable!
aluminum dust 25% ________________________________________________________________________________ potassium chlorate 67%
magnesium or
8
unstable
aluminum dust 33% ________________________________________________________________________________ sodium nitrate 65%
magnesium dust 30% sulfur 5%
?
unpredictable
burn rate
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium permanganate 60%
glycerine 40%
4 delay before
ignition depends WARNING: IGNITES SPONTANEOUSLY WITH GLYCERINE!!!
upon grain size
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium permanganate 67%
sulfur 33%
5 unstable
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium permangenate 60%
sulfur 20%
5 unstable
magnesium or aluminum dust 20% ________________________________________________________________________________ potassium permanganate 50%
sugar 50%
3 ?
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium nitrate 75%
charcoal 15%
sulfur 10%
7 this is
black powder!
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium nitrate 60%
powdered iron or
1 burns very hot
(thermite)
magnesium 40% ________________________________________________________________________________ potassium chlorate 75%
phosphorus
sesquisulfide 25%
8 used to make
strike-anywhere matches
________________________________________________________________________________ ammonium perchlorate 70% aluminum dust 30% + small amount of
6 solid fuel for
space shuttle
iron oxide ________________________________________________________________________________ potassium perchlorate 67% (sodium perchlorate)
magnesium or
10 flash powder
aluminum dust 33%
________________________________________________________________________________
potassium perchlorate 60% (sodium perchlorate)
magnesium or
8 alternate
aluminum dust 20%
flash powder
sulfur 20% ________________________________________________________________________________ barium nitrate 30%
aluminum dust 30%
9 alternate
potassium perchlorate 30%
flash powder
________________________________________________________________________________ barium peroxide 90%
magnesium dust 5%
aluminum dust 5%
10 alternate
flash powder
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium perchlorate 50%
sulfur 25%
magnesium or
8 slightly
unstable
aluminum dust 25% ________________________________________________________________________________ potassium chlorate 67%
red phosphorus 27%
calcium carbonate 3%
sulfur 3%
7 very unstable!
impact sensitive ________________________________________________________________________________
potassium permanganate 50% powdered sugar 25% aluminum or
7 unstable;
ignites if
magnesium dust 25%
it gets wet!
________________________________________________________________________________ potassium chlorate 75%
charcoal dust 15%
sulfur 10%
6 unstable
________________________________________________________________________________
NOTE:
Mixtures that uses substitutions of sodium perchlorate for potassium perchlorate become moistureabsorbent and less stable.
The higher the speed number, the faster the fuel-oxodizer mixture burns AFTER ignition. Also, as a rule, the finer the powder, the faster the rate of burning.
As one can easily see, there is a wide variety of fuel-oxodizer mixtures that can be made at home. By altering the amounts of fuel and oxodizer(s), different burn rates can be achieved, but this also can change the sensitivity of the mixture.
7.8 PERCHLORATES:
As a rule, any oxidizable material that is treated with perchloric acid will become a low order explosive. Metals, however, such as potassium or sodium, become excellent bases for flash-type powders. Some materials that can be perchlorated are cotton, paper, and sawdust. To produce potassium or sodium perchlorate, simply acquire the hydroxide of that metal, e.g. sodium or potassium hydroxide. It is a good idea to test the material to be perchlorated with a very small amount of acid, since some of the materials tend to react explosively when contacted by the acid. Solutions of sodium or potassium hydroxide are ideal. See other percholates section in the chemicals chapter.
8.0 High-order explosives:
Many of the explosives in this chapter are not mentioned in the classification chart(section 3.1). These high-order explosives are extremely powerful and are not to be under estimated. Almost any of these explosives can be used to level a building, and can turn a car into thousands of small pieces. And needless to say, if explosion happens next to you, you’ll most likely die. If you want to make HE's(high explosives), I STRONGLY suggest you get firmly grounded in the use of LE's first, and read as much as you can (The Explosives & Weapons Forum is a good place to look) first. Primary explosives can be VERY dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced/foolish person, and their manufacture and use is not to be taken lightly. Secondary explosives are in most ways safer, but with potentially more dangerous synthesis procedures (runaway reactions, NO2 gas etc).
8.1 Simple Plastique Explosives:
Potassium chlorate is an extremely volatile explosive compound, and has been used in the past as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and mortar rounds by such countries as France and Germany. (*see section 6.21 for the procedure on making potassium chlorate)
Materials:
Apparatus:
-Potassium Chlorate -Petroliom Jelly(Vaseline) -Wax -White Gasoline
-plasic bowl
melt five parts Vaseline with five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gasoline (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlorate into a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all gasoline to evaporate.
Finally, place this explosive into a cool, dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sulfides, and phosphorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax until water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity. Also, a blasting cap of at least a 3 grade must be used.
The presence of the afore mentioned compounds (sulfur, sulfides, etc.) results in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and will possibly decompose explosively while in storage. You should never store homemade explosives, and you must use EXTREME caution at all times while performing the processes in this article.
8.2 Lead Azide:
Lead azide is a common primary explosive used as a standard to compare sensitivity among other primary explosives. Making lead azide is not a simple task, this laboratory uses advanced techniques and equipment. Getting the chemicals will be another task. Sodium azide is an unstable, therefore regulated, material nearly impossible to get, it will need to be synthesized. Lead azide is sensitive to heat, shock and friction. The addition of dextrin to this lab prevents the formation of large crystals which can be very dangerous.
CHEMICALS dextrin lead nitrate sodium azide
APPARATUS 250-mL beaker Buchner funnel graduated cylinder
sodium hydroxide water
pipet/buret
separatory funnel stirring rod thermometer
Dissolve 2.33 g of sodium azide and 0.058 g of sodium hydroxide in 70 mL of water by shaking in a separatory funnel. This is solution A. Dissolve 6.9 g of lead nitrate and 0.35 g of dextrin in 90 mL water in a 250-mL beaker, add 1 or 2 drops of 10% sodium hydroxide to bring the pH to about 5. This is solution B. Heat solution B to 60-65° on a water bath and agitate it with a plastic or hardwood stirring rod. The stirring should be as efficient as possible to prevent the formation of large crystals. Stirring, while vigorous, should not produce any spattering of the mixture and the stirring should not rub against the walls of the beaker. The friction might cause some crystals to explode. Add solution A dropwise to solution B while stirring. The addition should take about 10 minutes. Remove the beaker from the water bath and continue stirring the mixture in the beaker while cooling to room temperature, this will take about 1 hour. Allow the precipitate of lead azide to settle and pour the solution over a filter to collect the crystals. Use suction filtration with a Buchner funnel if possible. Add 150 mL of water to the crystals to wash them, add the water in 50 mL increments. Dry the sample for 8-15 hours or longer, but no more than 24, at 65 °C. The lead azide should form small spherical crystals that are opaque in color. The yield should be around 5 g. Store the lead azide moist in a rubber stoppered plastic bottle if you must. If you do not have a separatory funnel for solution A, use a beaker to prepare the solution and a pipet or buret to to add it to solution B. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.3 Lead Styphnate:
Lead styphnate, also called lead trinitroresorcinate, is an unstable primary explosive that resists shock but will detonate readily from heat or static. It is usually mixed with lead azide to improve its ability to detonate from flame or electric ignition. The preparation of lead styphnate is easy, but the chemicals
used in its manufacture are of the kind only a lab would use. Lead acetate and nitric acid can be obtained but magnesium styphnate will be nearly impossible. Magnesium styphnate is derived from styphnic acid, or 2,4,6-trinitroresorcinol. Trinitro anything usually raises some danger flags, and dangerous chemicals are forbidden. Until I locate the method of preparation for styphnic acid, you will have to find some yourself.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
lead acetate
small beaker
magnesium styphnate
graduated cylinder
nitric acid
stirring rod
water
thermometer
Lead styphnate is prepared by adding a magnesium styphnate solution to lead acetate solution in a small beaker while stirring, and keeping the temperature at 70 °C. A precipitate will form, keep stirring for 15 minutes. After this time is up, add dilute nitric acid while stirring and cooling to 30 °C with a saltice bath, keep stirring until this temperature is reached. Collect the crystals on filter paper, wash with water, and allow them to dry in the open. The crystals should be reddish brown or orange in color.
Notice the lack of quantities of chemicals. The source I obtained this information from is reliable but sketchy. I suggest using 10 g of lead acetate in 30 mL of water, and the same for magnesium styphnate, to make the solutions. Add 10 mL of concentrated nitric acid to 70 mL of water for the dilute acid. Keep in mind the danger these crystals may pose, keep the dried crystals away from heat, friction, and shock. Store the crystals under water if they are not going to be used immediately. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.4 Mercury Fulminate:
Mercury fulminate is an unstable primary explosive compound. It was first prepared in the late seventeenth century by Johann Kunckel von Löwenstern by a procedure very similar to the modern method presented here. Löwenstern detailed mercury fulminate synthesis in his posthumously written Laboratorium Chymicum, he used aqua fortis, spiritum vini, and in fimum equinum. That last one is horse manure if you wanted to know. Mercury fulminate was first patented by Alfred Nobel in 1867 for blasting caps. It is not used today for that purpose because of more stable explosives from modern chemistry. Its manufacture is not complicated nor the chemicals in its makeup rare. Mercury can be extracted from a variety of products but it is very expensive. Only a chemical supply company could provide mercury in useful quantities. This lab produces nitrogen dioxide gas as a byproduct, this is a heavy red colored gas that is extremely toxic. The gas will turn moisture in your lungs to nitric acid and may cause fabric to ignite! This lab should be done outside or in a fume hood if possible.
CHEMICALS acetic acid
APPARATUS 500-mL beaker
ammonium hydroxide ethyl alcohol mercury
desiccator
100mL Erlenmeyer flask graduated cylinder
nitric acid water
In a 100mL Erlenmeyer flask, measure out 35 mL of 70% nitric acid, then add 5 g of mercury metal. This mixture should be left alone without shaking or stirring until all the mercury dissolves. Toxic gas will be produced. Keep the flask in a well ventilated area, or stopper the flask and lead a length of rubber tubing into water to safely dissolve the fumes. In a 500-mL beaker, place 50 mL of 90% ethyl alcohol, then add the acid-mercury mix in a well ventilated area. The temperature of the mixture will rise, a vigorous reaction will commence, white fumes will be released, and crystals of mercury fulminate should begin to precipitate. Red fumes of nitrogen dioxide will appear as the precipitation becomes more rapid, then white fumes again as the reaction moderates. After about 20 minutes the reaction should be over. Add water to the beaker and carefully decant off most of the water without losing any crystals. Add water and decant several times until the wash water is no longer acid to litmus. Finally, pour the neutral solution over a filter to collect the grayish-yellow crystals of mercury fulminate. The product may be purified by dissolving in strong ammonium hydroxide, filtering, and re-precipitating by the addition of 30% acetic acid. The pure fulminate is filtered off, washed with cold water, and stored in
a container filled with water. Dry in a desiccator immediately before use. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
8.5 Tetracene:
1-guanyl-4-nitrosoaminoguanyltetrazene, more conveniently called tetracene, was first prepared back in 1910 by two scientists named Hoffmann and Roth. It is a colorless pale yellow, fluffy material with slight hygroscopic properties. It is stable at normal temperatures when wet or dry, but decomposes in boiling water. Tetracene is sensitive to friction, shock, and flame. Its brisiance is greatest when it has not been compacted, so this compound can easily become dead-pressed. Tetracene is not suited for blasting caps or alone as an explosive since it does not detonate itself very efficiently. It is best suited for booster charges or in blasting caps mixed with other explosives. It can only achieve is full explosive potential if detonated by another explosive charge. The only problem I have noted with this lab is the aminoguanidine bicarbonate used as the main ingredient. I have found no literature whatsoever to suggest that this substance exists although it is probably a rare analog of aminoguanidine reacted with a bicarbonate substance, and given a non IUPAC name.
CHEMICALS acetic acid
APPARATUS 3-liter Florence flask
aminoguanidine bicarbonate graduated cylinder sodium nitrite
thermometer
water
Prepare a solution of 34 g of aminoguanidine bicarbonate and 12.5 mL of glacial acetic acid with 2500 mL of water in a 3-liter Florence flask. Gently warm the flask on a steam bath and shake periodically until everything is completely dissolved into solution. The solution should be filtered to remove any
impurities that may have not dissolved, then cooled to 30º C by running cold water from the faucet over the flask. It is necessary to filter the solution if there are impurities present. Add 27.6 g of sodium nitrite to the solution while swirling to dissolve it. Set the flask aside at room temperature for 3 or 4 hours then shake it vigorously to start precipitation of the product. Let the flask stand for another 20 hours. After standing, decant as much of the solution off as possible and drown the remaining crystals with water. Decant and drown with water several more times to wash the crystals. Filter the washed crystals to collect them and thoroughly wash again with water. Dry the product at room temperature and store in a sealed glass container to keep out the moisture. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.6 AMATOL:
Materials:
-ammonium nitrate -TNT
Description:
Amatol is a high explosive, white to buff in color. It is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and TNT, with a relative effectiveness slightly higher than that of TNT alone. Common compositions vary from 80% ammonium nitrate and 20% TNT, to 40% ammonium nitrate and 60% TNT. Amatol is used as the main bursting charge in artillery shells and bombs. Amatol absorbs moisture and can form dangerous compounds with copper and brass. Therefore, it should not be housed in containers of such metals.
8.7 PETN:
PETN is an acronym for pentaerythritol tetranitrate, other names include 1,3-propanediol; 2,2-[bis(nitroxy)methyl]-dinitrate; 2,2-bis[(nitrooxy)methyl]-1,3-propanediol (ester); 2,2-bishydroxymethyl-1,3propanediol tetranitrate; nitropentaerythritol; niperyt; Lentrat; Hasethrol; Peritrate; Mycardol; Nitropenton; Pentral 80; Dilcoran-80; Terpate; Perityl; Pentritol; Pentanitrine; Prevangor; Subicard; Pentryate; Vasodiatol; Neo-Corovas; Pentafin; Quintrate; Pergitral; Metranil; Cardiacap; Angitet; dinitrate penta; niperyth; penthrit; penthrite; pentrit; nitropenta; NP; and TEN. While PETN can not be detonated by flame or fuse, it only burns in the open air, it is very easily detonated by shock. A blow from a hammer, dropping it on the floor, and using even a weak detonator will cause detonation. PETN was first prepared in 1894 by the German company Rneinisch Westfalalische Sprengstoff AG. PETN is used as the active ingredient in detonating cord, detonating cord is like a fuse that burns as fast as electricity flows (as fast as sound anyway, but that is only an analogy). The cord can slice a small tree in half from the heat, it was wrapped around prisoners of war when no shackles were handy. Anybody gets out of line... Ouch. PETN has also found uses in blasting caps, grenade filler, as a sometime replacement for RDX, mixed with plastics as a booster charge for insensitive explosives, and in medicine as a vasodilator. Another nifty use for it is in sheet explosive, like bed sheets, it can be used to harden and shape metals, wrap around objects and all sorts of wonderful things. PETN is a rather common and stable high explosive that is not very difficult to prepare. This lab will require white nitric acid which you can make and pentaerythritol, also called tetramethylol methane and 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol. Pentaerythritol may have its uses in the paint industry but no use in the hands of the public. I have a method of synthesizing it, but it is vague. I will look for a better procedure.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetone
600-mL beaker
nitric acid
graduated cylinder
pentaerythritol stirrer/stirring rod sodium carbonate thermometer water
In a 600-mL beaker, add 400 mL of white nitric acid and cool to below 5°C in a salt-ice bath. White nitric acid is made by adding a small amount of urea to fuming nitric acid then blowing dry air into the acid until it is colorless. 100 g of finely ground pentaerythritol is slowly added to the acid while stirring,
keeping the temperature below 5°C. After all of the pentaerythritol has been added, the stirring and cooling are continued for 15 minutes. The mixture is then dumped in about 3 L of ice water. The crude product that should have formed is filtered to collect it, washed with water, and submerged in 1 L of hot 0.5% sodium carbonate solution for 1 hour. The crystals are again collected on a filter, washed with water, and allowed to dry. These washings are important to remove all traces of acid. To obtain a pure product, dissolve the crystals in hot acetone, allow to cool, then add an equal volume of water as you have of acetone. Filter to collect the crystals, wash with water, and allow 24 hours to dry. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.8 RDX:
RDX, or cyclonite, is a very insensitive high explosive compound. The actual chemical name is cyclotrimethylenetrinitramine, although the chemical names hexahydro-1,3,5-trinitro-1,3,5-triazine; Hexogen; trimethylenetrinitramine; sym-trimethylenetrinitramine ;Hexolite; 1,3,5-trinitrohexahydro-ptriazine; 1,3,5-trinitrohexahydro-s-triazine; cyclotrimrthylene-trinitramine; 1,3,5-triaza-1,3,5trinitrocyclohexane; trinitrohexahydrotriazine; and T4 are also used. RDX itself stands for Royal Demolition Explosive and comes from Great Britain, cyclonite is the American usage, Hexogen is for Germans, and T4 is Italian. RDX is a very powerful military explosive that can be stored for long periods of time and handled safely. RDX is usually mixed with other explosives and plasticizers to make a variety of useful compositions for military and civilian use, C-4 and Semtex are two such compounds. It seems so much RDX is made that most scientific books give industrial schematics for thousands of pounds instead of lab preparations. The laboratory methods here are not as efficient as in industry, but are fine. The first method uses methenamine, or hexamethylenetetramine, which can be purchased as heating tablets or synthesized in the lab. The second makes use of acetic anhydride, forbidden by the DEA, but it can be synthesized as well.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetic anhydride 500-mL beaker acetone
1000-mL beaker
ammonium nitrate graduated cylinder methenamine nitric acid
stirrer/stirring rod
thermometer
paraformaldehyde sodium bicarbonate water
Put 335 mL of 100% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker, cool the acid to below 30 °C by setting the beaker in a salt-ice bath. The nitric acid must be as concentrated as possible, it must also be free of nitrogen oxides. Slowly add 75 g of methenamine in small portions to the acid while stirring. The temperature must be kept between 20 °C to 30 °C during the addition. Once all of the methenamine has dissolved, slowly heat it to 55 °C while stirring, hold it to between 50-55 °C for 5 minutes, keep stirring. Now cool the mix to 20 °C then let it sit for 15 minutes. After standing, it is gradually diluted with three or four times its volume of cool water, this should precipitate the RDX from solution. Depending on how the gods of chemistry feel about your reaction it may take from minutes to hours to fully precipitate all of the RDX. Decant most of the liquid then add 1 L of 5% sodium bicarbonate solution to neutralize the remaining acid. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals of RDX that should have formed. Wash them with cold water, then with hot 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, and again with water. The RDX can be dried at room temperature or in an oven. Further purification can be accomplished by recrystallizing from acetone. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
The second procedure is as follows: Place 260 mL acetic anhydride in a 1000-mL beaker and add 105 g powdered ammonium nitrate while stirring. Heat the beaker to 90 °C and remove the source of heat. Very slowly add 38 g of paraformaldehyde to the beaker, this addition will release toxic and flammable fumes, use a fume hood or go to an open area. After the addition, add the contents of the beaker to twice its volume of cold water to precipitate crystals of RDX. Filter the solution to collect the crystals and wash them with cold water then boiling water. The RDX can be purified by dissolving in the minimum amount of acetone then diluting with cold water. Filter the crystals to collect them and allow to dry in the open air.
8.9 COMPOSITION C-1:
This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the 'C' explosive of choice for home manufacture due to its ease of manufacture and the more easily obtained compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks. The explosive was standardized and adopted in the following composition:
R. D. X.
88.3 %
Heavy Mineral Oil Lecithin
11.1 %
0.6 %
In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power. It is relatively non - toxic except if ingested and is plastic from 0-40 deg. C.. Above 40 deg., the explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 deg. C., it becomes brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Weighing all pros and cons, this is the explosive of choice for the kitchen explosives factory due to the simple manufacture of the plastique compound. Manufacturing this explosive can be done in two ways. The first is to dissolve the 11.1 % plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R. D. X. and then allowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of all gasoline. All percentages are by weight. The second method is the fairly simple kneading of the plasticizing compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive should be stored in a cool dry place. If properly made, the plastique should be very stable in storage, even if stored at elevated temperatures for long periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive as compared to other millitary explosives. With this explosive, as mentioned earlier, a booster will be a good choice, especially if used below 0 deg. C.. The detonation velocity of this explosive should be around 7900 M/sec..
8.10 COMPOSITION C-2:
Composition C-2 was developed due to the undesirable aspects of composition 'C'. lt was formerly used by the United States armed forces, but has been replaced by C-3 and C-4. lt's composition is much the same as C-3 and it's manufacture is thc safe also.
I won't go into much detail on this explosive because of its highly undesirable traits. lt is harder to make than C-4 and is toxic to handle. lt also is unstable in storage and is a poor choice for home explosives manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either C-4 or C-3. But for those of you that are interested, I will give the composition of this explosive anyway. It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in incorporation of C-3. Its composition is as follows:
R.D.X.
80 %
(Equal parts of thc following:)
Mononitrotolulene Dinitrotolulene T.N.T. guncotton Dimethylformide
20 %
8.11 COMPOSITION C-3:
This explosive was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of C-2. It was standardized and adopted by the military as the following composition:
R. D. X.
77 %
Mononitrotolulene Dinitrotolulene Tetryl
16 % 5%
1%
Nitrocellose (guncotton) 1 %
C-3 is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 deg. C. and the stirrer is activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plasticizing agent and the stirring is continued until a uniform mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room temperature. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T.. Storage at 65 deg. C. for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair its explosive properties. C-3 is 133% as good as an explosive as is T.N.T.. The major drawback of C-3 is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of it's weight although the explosive's detonation properties are not affected. Water does not affect the explosive's performance. It therefore is very good for U.D.T. uses and would be a good choice for these applications. When stored at 77 deg. C., considerable extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 deg. C. and is hard to detonate at this temperature. While this explosive is not unduly toxic, it should be handled with utmost care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin. It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and was and still is available is standard demolition blocks. It's detonation velocity is approximately 7700 M / sec..
8.12 COMPOSITION C-4:
C-4 was developed because of the hardening and toxicity that made C-3 unreliable and dangerous due to the dinitrotolulene plastisizer. The following composition is the standardized plastique explosive as adopted by the armed forces:
R.D.X.
91.0 %
Polyisobutylene Motor Oil
2.1 % 1.6 %
Di-(2-ethylhexy)sebecate
5.3 %
The last three ingredients are dissolved in unleaded gasoline. The R.D.X. explosive base is then added to the gasoline-plasticizer and the resultant mass in allowed to evaporate until the gasoline is completely gone (this can be done quickly and efficiently under a vacuum). The final product should be dirty white to light brown in color. It should have no odor and have a density of 1.59 gm/cc. It does not harden at -57 deg. C. and does not undergo extrudation at 77 deg. C.. It can be reliably detonated with a #6 blasting cap. The bristance of this explosive (ability to do work or fragment ordinance) is 120% greater than T.N.T.. C-4 is the best plastique explosive available in the world and probably will remain so for quite some time. This is the #1 demolition explosive in the world and if you've never seen this stuff used it is absolutely amazing. The detonation velocity of C-4 is 8100 M/sec..
8.13 Ammonium Picrate:
Ammonium picrate, also called 2,4,6-trinitrophenol ammonium salt, ammonium trinitrophenolate, Dunnite, or Explosive D, is prepared in much the same way as nitrogen triiodide. Ammonium picrate was first prepared in 1841 by a scientist named Marchand. It was not used until 1869 when it was mixed with potassium nitrate as a propellent for rifles. Alfred Nobel patented it in 1888 for Dynamites. The US Army picked it up in 1901, and the Navy floated it in 1907. It saw peak production during WWII but has since fallen victim to progress in chemistry. This explosive is relatively stable, therefore safer to prepare and handle. The only real problem is getting ahold of picric acid which is a regulated explosive chemical. Very few laboratories still use life threatening carcinogens like benzene or explosives like picric acid. That means even if you have the authorization to purchase chemicals you will have a hard time getting any. Not to worry, I have included the preparation of picric acid. Benzene is another matter unfortunately.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ammonium hydroxide picric acid
250-mL beaker
graduated cylinder hotplate
2,4,6-Trinitrophenol ammonium salt is formed when the ammonium ion, NH4+, attaches itself to the phenol group, OH, of picric acid. I suppose the H from OH is stripped away making O- that balances the positive ammonium ion. To make, dissolve picric acid in excess ammonium hydroxide. Add 1 g of picric acid to a 250-mL beaker then add 100 mL of hot concentrated ammonium hydroxide. Once the picric acid has dissolved, some will precipitate out of solution upon cooling. The liquid must be evaporated to fully precipitate the crystals. Evaporation can be accelerated by heating the solution on a hotplate or in a heated pan of water. More ammonium picrate can be prepared at once by using the same 1:100 ratio of grams picric acid to milliliters ammonium hydroxide. You will need a graduated cylinder to measure the liquid.
The pure substance occurs in two forms, a stable form which is bright yellow and a less stable form which is bright red. The crystals which separate here are the red form. The yellow form can be procured by recrystallizing the red several times from water. The red form will eventually change into the yellow form if stored as a concentrated solution. Keep this material as dry as possible.
8.14 HMX:
HMX is a very powerful military explosive with similar properties to RDX, the other great military explosive with which it is often mixed. HMX is technically called octahydro-1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7tetrazocine, other names include 1,3,5,7-tetranitro-1,3,5,7-tetrazacyclooctane; cyclotetramethylene tetranitramine; and octogen. HMX is itself an acronym for either High velocity Military eXplosive, or Her Majesties eXplosive depending on what country you are in. HMX is very stable, it requires a powerful detonator or booster charge to detonate. It was first developed during WWII in the never ending search for more powerful bombs.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetic acid
500/1000-mL beaker
acetic anhydride 500-mL Florence flask ammonium nitrate graduated cylinder methenamine nitric acid
stirrer/stirring rod
thermometer
paraformaldehyde water
Prepare a solution of 748 mL of glacial acetic acid, 12 mL of acetic anhydride, and 17 g of paraformaldehyde, keep this solution at 44 °C while mixing. Prepare a second solution of 217.6 g of ammonium nitrate and 154.6 mL of 99% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker. Prepare a third solution of 101 g of methenamine, 157 mL of glacial acetic acid, and 296 mL of acetic anhydride in a 1000-mL beaker. Combine the third solution with 112.5 mL of the second solution. Add this combined solution to the first solution over a 15 minute period while stirring rapidly. After the addition, continue stirring for an additional 15 minutes. Next, carefully add 296 mL of acetic anhydride, then carefully add the remainder of the second solution, then add another 148 mL of acetic anhydride, all while stirring. Continue the stirring for 1 hour more. After stirring, add 350 mL of hot water and reflux the whole works for 30
minutes. After this time, cool the liquid down to 20 °C by adding ice. Decant off as much of the liquid from the precipitate as possible and drown the remaining crystals with cold water. Filter to collect the crystals of HMX and wash them with three portions of cold water, allow to dry. The yield is about 95%. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
Owing to the large volume of reactants in this lab, in excess of 2.5 L, it is necessary to use a 5-L flask, unfortunately this is beyond most laboratories, and especially the home chemist. This reaction can be carried out in a glass gallon jug or similar large capacity glass container. The refluxing step can be done in portions using a round-bottomed 500-mL Florence flask.
8.15 Nitrated Petroleum:
This explosive procedure intrigues me because what chemical can be more readably available than gasoline, or for that matter motor oil, kerosine, and diesel. The nitration of petroleum generally produces either brown non-crystalline solids or liquid products that are explosive. The first attempts to nitrate petroleum were made in Russia at the end of the 19th century by one Dr. Konovaloff. Dilute nitric acid under pressure was used to nitrate the product, obtaining very low yields. In 1902 a nitration method patented by Edeleanu and Filti used mixed nitric-sulfuric acids, unfortunately for them no practical application of their patent was found. Others tried using different kinds of petroleum like A.S. Flexer, Freund, and Kharichkov to name a few. Not that it matters who they are, but I like to know. You may experiment yourself on everything from crude oil to that stuff you get at the hardware store for oil lamps. Things are screwed up nowadays, all of the good chemical additives that make petroleum nitrateable seem to be getting legislated by the government (only the democrat oppressors). This lab may have worked for scientists a hundred years ago, but it may not work for you today.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
gasoline
beaker
nitric acid
graduated cylinder
sulfuric acid water
thermometer
Standard gasoline, get the cheap stuff and not gasahol (gas/ethyl alcohol mix) if you can avoid it, is added gradually to a mixture of 15 parts 100% sulfuric acid and 3 parts 100% nitric acid in a large beaker. Add 1 part of gasoline per 18 parts of mixed acid. The reaction temperature should be somewhat cool, never let the temperature rise above 80 °C. A temperature below 20 °C should do, you can regulate this with a salt-ice bath. When the nitration is completed, the mixture is diluted with a large quantity of cold water to precipitate the product. The un-nitrated oil will float to the top of the acid-water solution. Collect the precipitate on a filter and wash with water, yield will be 30% to 90% depending on the crude oil used to manufacture the gasoline. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.16 Nitrogen Trichloride:
Nitrogen trichloride, also called nitrogen chloride, agene, chlorine nitride, trichloramine, trichlorine nitride, chloride of azode, or Stickstofftrichlorid, is an unstable primary explosive compound. Its preparation is not complicated and the chemicals used are simple, cheap, and readily obtainable. You could pump the stuff out by the liter if it was not so sensitive. Nitrogen trichloride will explode if heated, exposed to sunlight, or mixed with organic compounds. It does not like to be friendly around many other chemicals, shock, sparks, and it will explode if frozen and thawed. The explosive properties were first reported in the 18th century by Sir H. Davy, he had this to say: "The fulminating oil which you mentioned roused my curiosity and nearly deprived me of an eye. After some months of confinement I am again well." Ouch, that must have hurt.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ammonium nitrate bubbler chlorine
200-mL Erlenmeyer flask
water
graduated cylinder medicine dropper
Dissolve 30 g of ammonium nitrate in 70 mL water in a 200-mL Erlenmeyer flask. Prepare a chlorine generator as described in the synthesis section. Place a tube connected to the generator at the bottom of the flask so the chlorine gas can bubble into the liquid, a bubbler will help a lot with the reaction. Gently heat the flask to start the reaction while adding chlorine gas. An oily yellow liquid will begin to appear on the bottom of the flask, that is the nitrogen trichloride. Stop heating the flask when the drops appear. After 20 to 30 minutes the reaction should be complete. Use a medicine dropper to extract the nitrogen trichloride from the flask, transfer it to a small test tube and remove any water accidently sucked up with it. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids. This explosive will decompose within 24 hours of its preparation.
8.17 Tetryl:
Tetryl has a variety of names including nitramine; N-methyl-N,2,4,6-tetranitrobenzenamine; Nmethyl-N,2,4,6-tetranitroaniline; picrylmethylnitramine; picrylnitromethylamine; 2,4,6trinitrophenylmethylnitramine; tetralite; and pyronite. Tetryl is a stable explosive capable of being handled reasonably safe, yet it is still sensitive enough to be used in blasting caps or booster charges. It was first developed in 1889 by the scientists Michler and Meyer and studied in some detail thereafter. It can be heated either in the open or in solvents causing mere decomposition, usually to picric acid. Tetryl is more powerful then even TNT, although the lesser stability compared to TNT makes it less attractive to the military. You must keep tetryl in the dark and away from the skin, it will stain skin and hair yellow as well as cause itching or worse.
CHEMICALS benzene
APPARATUS 500-mL beaker
N,N-dimethylaniline ethyl alcohol nitric acid
500-mL Erlenmeyer flask
graduated cylinder magnetic stirrer
sulfuric acid water
separatory funnel thermometer
Prepare a solution of 20 mL of N,N-dimethylaniline and 130 mL of 99-100% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker placed in a salt-ice bath. Keep the temperature below 25 °C while mixing this solution. Pour the solution into a separatory funnel and slowly add it, drop by drop, to a 500-mL Erlenmeyer flask containing 160 mL of 80% nitric acid that has been previously heated to 55-60 °C. During the addition, stir continually with a magnetic stirrer, and maintain the temperature between 65-70 °C. The addition should require about 1 hour. After the addition, continue stirring and maintain the temperature at 65-70 °C for an additional hour. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature and the crystals of tetryl to precipitate. Decant as much of the acid as possible and drown the remaining crystals with water. Filter to collect the crystals and wash thoroughly with water to remove traces of acid. Add the washed crystals to a beaker of 240 mL of water and boil for 1 hour, continually add water to replace any that boils away, maintaining a constant volume. Again filter to collect the tetryl, add the crystals to a beaker and add enough water to cover the surface, grind these crystals to as fine a paste as possible. Add water equal to twelve times the weight of the crystals and boil for 12 hours. Repeat this with a fresh batch of water and boil for another 4 hours. Filter to collect the crystals and allow them to dry. After drying, add just enough benzene to dissolve the crystals then filter to remove any undissolved impurities. Allow the benzene to evaporate then recrystallize the tetryl residue from ethyl alcohol. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.18 Trinitrobenzene(TNB):
1,3,5-trinitrobenzene, also known as sym-trinitrobenzene; s-trinitrobenzene; trinitrobenzeen; trinitrobenzene; trinitrobenzol; benzite; Rcra waste number U234; or just TNB, is a stable high explosive compound with slightly greater explosive force than TNT. There are two other isomers of trinitrobenzene, namely 1,2,4- and 1,2,3- , but they are less stable and harder to form. Trinitrobenzene is very poisonous, causing severe skin irritation, so it is best to use every precaution when handling it. The good qualities of trinitrobenzene are its high stability, great explosive power, and low sensitivity to friction and impact. On the down side, this procedure is not exactly an economical choice since it uses perfectly good TNT as the main ingredient.
This procedure is a variant of the original that dates back to 1893 when the German scientists Tiemann, Claus, and Becker observed that trinitrotoluene can be oxidized with nitric acid to trinitrobenzoic acid, and the latter being readily decarboxylated to form sym-trinitrobenzene:
This lab substitutes sulfuric acid and a chromium compound for nitric acid, the reaction is the same either way. There are other methods of forming TNB but this procedure is the easiest and has the highest yield.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
sodium dichromate 500-mL beaker sulfuric acid
small beaker
trinitrotoluene graduated cylinder water
stirrer/stirring rod thermometer
Prepare a mixture of 30 g of purified trinitrotoluene and 300 mL of 95-100% sulfuric acid in a tall 500mL beaker. Slowly add, with stirring, powdered sodium dichromate in small portions, do not allow any lumps to form or powder to rise to the surface. When the temperature of the mixture reaches 40 °C, place the baker into a cold water bath. Continue adding dichromate, while stirring, until a total of 45 g has been added, maintain the temperature between 40-50 °C at all times. After the addition, continue stirring and maintaining the temperature between 40-50 °C for 2 hours. After this time, allow the mixture to cool undisturbed to room temperature over a 12 hour period. Crystals of trinitrobenzoic acid should have formed. Decant off as much of the acidic liquid as possible, then drown the crystals in water. Filter the crystals to collect them, wash with cold water, then transfer them to a small beaker. Add just enough 50 °C water to dissolve the crystals. Filter this solution hot to remove any undissolved impurities, then boil it until no more crystals precipitate. Allow the solution to cool, filter to collect the crystals, then wash them with water. These should be colorless to greenish yellow crystals of trinitrobenzene. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.19 Trinitrotoluene(TNT):
2,4,6-trinitrotoluene, or just TNT, is the oft used military and industrial explosive that may be the among the best recognized explosive around. Other names for TNT include: trinitrotoluol; sym-trinitrotoluene; a-trinitrotoluol; 2-methyl-1,3,5-trinitrobenzene; entsufon; 1-methyl-2,4,6-trinitrobenzene; methyltrinitrobenzene; tolite; trilit; s-trinitrotoluene; s-trinitrotoluol; trotyl; sym-trinitrotoluol; alphatrinitrotoluol; tolite; triton; tritol; trilite; tri; tutol; trinol; füllpulver 1902; Fp02; tritolo; trillit; tolita; tol; and trotil. TNT was first synthesized in 1863 by a scientist named Wilbrand who treated toluene with sulfuric and nitric acid at near boiling temperatures. Although there are several isomers of trinitrotoluene, only the 2,4,6- isomer is of importance. Pure TNT is in the form of small columns or needles and is insoluble in water. It is quite stable, being meltable ,or able to act like a plastic at around 50 °C. TNT can even be boiled although the experiments did this under reduced pressure (50mm Hg) to lower the boiling point to around 245 °C. The normal detonation temperature is 333 °C, the calculated boiling point at normal atmospheric pressure is 345 °C, so don't do it. Some experiments have determined that the presence of foreign material like 1.9% of Fe2O3 will lower the amount of time it takes for TNT to explode once it reaches its critical temperature, or 295 °C, the temperature at which decomposition begins. Also, mixing pure sulfur with TNT will lower the initiation temperature and increase the explosive power. For example, pure TNT explodes at 333 °C, 5% sulfur explodes at 304 °C, 10% sulfur at 294 °C, 20% sulfur at 284 °C, and 30% sulfur at 275 °C. The increase in explosive power is gained through the addition of 510% sulfur. Because the stability of TNT is so great, it is harder to detonate it, the sensitivity increases somewhat above 80º C, but is still rather low even when molten. A powerful blasting cap, or booster charge, will be needed to detonate TNT. This lab is carried out in three separate operations, forming mononitrotoluene, then dinitrotoluene, and finally trinitrotoluene.
CHEMICALS ethyl alcohol nitric acid
APPARATUS 100/500/600-mL beaker Buchner funnel
sodium bisulfite graduated cylinder sulfuric acid toluene
pipet/buret separatory funnel
water
stirrer/stirring rod thermometer
Prepare a nitrating solution of 160 mL of 95% sulfuric acid and 105 mL of 75% nitric acid in a 500-mL beaker set in a salt-ice bath. Mix the acids very slowly to avoid the generation of too much heat. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. The acid mixture is slowly added dropwise, with a pipet or buret, to 115 mL of toluene in a 600-mL beaker while stirring rapidly. Maintain the temperature of the beaker during the addition at 30-40 °C by using either a cold water or salt-ice bath. The addition should require 60-90 minutes. After the addition, continue stirring for 30 minutes without any cooling, then let the mixture stand for 8-12 hours in a separatory funnel. The lower layer will be spent acid and the upper layer should be mononitrotoluene, drain the lower layer and keep the upper layer.
Dissolve one-half of the previously prepared mononitrotoluene and 60 mL of 95% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker set in a cold water bath. Prepare a nitrating solution of 30 mL of 95% sulfuric acid and 36.5 mL of 95% nitric acid in a 100-mL beaker. Preheat the beaker of mononitrotoluene to 50 &Deg;C. Very slowly add the nitrating acid to the beaker of mononitrotoluene, with a pipet or buret, drop by drop while stirring rapidly. Regulate the rate of addition to keep the temperature of the reaction between 90-100 °C. The addition will require about 1 hour. After the addition, continue stirring and maintaining the temperature at 90-100 °C for 2 hours. If the beaker is allowed to stand, a layer of dinitrotoluene will separate, it is not necessary to separate the dinitrotoluene from the acid in this step.
While stirring the beaker of dinitrotoluene, heated to 90 °C, slowly add 80 mL of 100% fuming sulfuric acid, containing about 15% SO3, by pouring from a beaker. Prepare a nitrating solution of 40 mL of 100% sulfuric acid, with 15% SO3, and 50 mL of 99% nitric acid. Very slowly add the nitrating acid to the beaker of dinitrotoluene, with a pipet or buret, drop by drop while stirring rapidly. Regulate the rate of addition to keep the temperature of the reaction between 100-115 °C. It may become necessary to heat the beaker after three-quarters of the acid has been added in order to sustain the 100-115 °C temperature. The addition will require about 90-120 minutes. Maintain the stirring and temperature at 100-115 °C for 2 hours after the addition is complete. Allow the beaker to sit undisturbed for 8-12 hours, it should form a solid mass of trinitrotoluene crystals. Pour the contents of the beaker over a Buchner funnel without any filter paper to collect the bulk of the crystals, save the acidic filtrate as well. Break up the collected crystals and wash them with water to remove any excess acid. Add the collected acid and wash filtrates to a large volume of water, this will cause any remaining trinitrotoluene to precipitate. Decant off as much of the water as possible and combine these crystals with the previous ones on the funnel. Drown the crystals in a large volume of water, filter to collect them, and wash several times with
water. Wash the crystals by adding them to a beaker of water, heat the water enough to melt the crystals while stirring rapidly. Repeat the melting and stirring with a fresh batch of water three or four times to wash thoroughly. After the last washing, the trinitrotoluene is granulated by allowing it to cool slowly under hot water while the stirring is continued. Filter to collect the crystals and allow to dry. The TNT can be further purified by recrystallizing from ethyl alcohol, dissolve the crystals in 60 °C and allow the solution to cool slowly. A second method of purification is to digest the TNT in 5 times its weight of 5% sodium bisulfite solution heated to 90 °C while stirring rapidly for 30 minutes. Wash the crystals with hot water until the washings are colorless, then allow the crystals to granulate as before. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.20 Silver Fulminate:
Silver fulminate is a very sensitive primary explosive compound. It is most often found in "bang snaps" and other novelty pyrotechnic objects. Only very tiny amounts of silver fulminate should be prepared at once, the weight of the crystals can cause them to self detonate. Silver fulminate was first prepared in 1800 by Edward Howard in his research project to prepare a large variety of fulminates. For 200 years it has been only useful as a curiosity explosive in toys and tricks.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
ethyl alcohol nitric acid silver
100/500-mL beaker graduated cylinder
thermometer
water
Heat 8 mL of 70% nitric acid in a 100-mL beaker to 35-38 °C. Add 1 g of silver metal to the acid. While the silver is dissolving it will produce toxic nitrogen dioxide fumes, use a fume hood or get to a well
ventilated area. Some heating may be required to get all of the silver to dissolve. Put 15 mL of 95% ethyl alcohol in a 500-mL beaker set into a salt-ice bath. After the silver has dissolved, slowly add the solution to the alcohol while keeping the temperature below 18 °C. More toxic nitrogen dioxide will be released. The reaction should require about 25-30 minutes to complete, after which 200 mL of cold water is added to precipitate the silver fulminate. Decant off as much of the liquid as possible then drown the crystals with water. Filter to collect the crystals and wash them with 30 mL of ethyl alcohol. Flour or starch can be added to the crystals before filtering to add some degree of stability. Store the silver fulminate away from sunlight as it can decompose. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.21 ANFO:
ANFO is an acronym for Ammonium Nitrate - Fuel Oil Solution. An ANFO solves the only other major problem with ammonium nitrate: its tendency to pick up water vapor from the air. This results in the explosive failing to detonate when such an attempt is made. This is rectified by mixing 94% (by weight) ammonium nitrate with 6% fuel oil, kerosene, or diesel. The kerosene keeps the ammonium nitrate from absorbing moisture from the air. An ANFO also requires a large shockwave to set it off.
*it's pretty difficult to make it go off. if you know alot about electrics and you can get the temperature up to 500C then it's not a problem. 25 KG (50lbs) ammonium nitrate costs around $14. and diesel costs about $1 dollar per litre (2 pounds). so it's VERY cheap. and VERY powerful. as long as you can make it go off.
*ANFO have to be stored in dry, indoor stores by temperature from minus 35°C to 35°C up to 3 months from the date of manufacturing.
8.22 DNPA:
DNPA is the acronym for 4,4-dinitropimelic acid, another name is 4,4-dinitro-1,7-heptanedioic acid. This explosive is fairly stable to heat and shock as well as being storable at room temperature. While it is an explosive itself, it is usually used to manufacture polynitroaliphatic explosives and propellents. It may be more useful to polymerize this compound into the polyester polymer 4,4-dinitropimelyl chloride and 2,2-dinitro-1,3-propanediol.
CHEMICALS charcoal ethyl ether
APPARATUS beaker graduated cylinder
hydrochloric acid
pipet/buret
methyl alcohol
stirrer/stirring rod
methyl acrylate potassium dinitroethanol water
Preparation is by two steps, the first forms the dimethyl ester of DNPA, and the second hydrolyzes it. In the first step, 1200 mL of methyl acrylate is added dropwise, with a pipet or buret, while stirring with a magnetic stirrer or stirring rod, to an aqueous solution of 2.5 moles of potassium dinitroethanol at room temperature inside a large beaker. The addition is completed in 3 hours with 8 more hours of stirring required to complete the reaction. After completion of the stirring , the ester that should have formed is extracted several times with ethyl ether, decolorized with charcoal, and the ethyl ether is removed under vacuum. The impure ester is then recrystallized from methyl alcohol. The second step hydrolyzes 39 g of the ester by refluxing it with 350 mL of 18% hydrochloric acid for several hours. After cooling, the 4,4-dinitropimelic acid is crystallized by adding water. The total yield based on potassium dinitroethanol is 55-56%. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
8.23 Nitroguanidine:
Nitroguanidine, sometimes written as nitroguanadine, is a stable primary explosive compound. The explosive power and insensitivity of this chemical make it comparable to high explosives like TNT and a good choice for preparation if your safety skills are not fully established. Unfortunately, the preparation of guanidine nitrate, the main precursor for nitroguanidine, can be hampered as its precursors are difficult to obtain. This of course leads to the synthesis of nitroguanidine being hampered as well. With that aside, nitroguanidine is very simple to synthesize, requiring only sulfuric acid to react with. There are two crystalline forms of nitroguanidine, an alpha and a beta. Although there is little difference between the two forms, the alpha is the simpler to synthesize, the beta will quickly convert to the alpha anyway.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
guanidine nitrate 1000-mL beaker sulfuric acid water
graduated cylinder stirrer/stirring rod
thermometer
In a 1000-mL beaker add 500 mL of 98% or greater sulfuric acid, then cool the flask in a salt-ice bath to 10°C or below. Slowly add 400 g of dry guanidine nitrate to the acid while stirring, keeping the temperature of the mixture below 10 °C. The mixture should have a milky appearance, allow it to stand at room temperature, while occasionally stirring, until it is homogeneous and free from crystals. This may require anywhere from 15 to 20 hours. After the wait, pour the mixture into a large beaker of ice and water, this will cause nitroguanidine to precipitate out of solution. After one hour of standing, with cooling in the salt-ice bath, all the crystals should have precipitated. Filter the mixture to collect the crystals, rinse them with water to remove any acid that may be behind, then dissolve them in 4 liters of boiling water. Allow the water to cool for 12 to 24 hours and the crystals should precipitate. Pour the water over a filter to collect the crystals, and then allow them to dry. The nitroguanidine formed can be stored safely and will not decompose. The yield is about 90%. You will need a graduated cylinder for
measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.24 Astrolite:
Astrolite is not a chemical compound but rather a two component high explosive mixture. Its claim to fame is it has the highest explosive velocity of all chemical explosives, a distant second only to a nuclear blast, a claim that is entirely false. Only that anarchist crap still thinks that Astrolite is super powerful. The truth is, its low density makes it unlikely to achieve a detonation comparable to more common explosives Astrolite G is a mixture of ammonium nitrate and hydrazine, Astrolite A adds aluminum powder to the mix for extra power. Hydrazine is a very toxic, corrosive, and dangerous chemical that you will never be able to get. The fumes can kill you in seconds if breathed in a confined area. I have devoted a section to hydrazine and its safety in the chemical synthesis section.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
aluminum powder beaker ammonium nitrate graduated cylinder hydrazine
stirring rod
To make Astrolite G, add 200 g of ammonium nitrate to a large beaker and stir in 100 mL of hydrazine, mix well. For Astrolite A add 40 g of aluminum powder to the Astrolite G mixture. It is best to make the mixture immediately before use because the ammonium nitrate becomes sensitive to detonation once hydrazine is added. Professional blasters make their mixtures in the field at the blast site for greater safety. Each component is measured out in separate containers, transported to the site, mixed, allowed to sit for 20 minutes, and detonated. As separate components they are very safe (well as
safe as hydrazine can get) and the mixing is easy. Astrolite can be detonated even when it has been poured out on the ground and left for 4 days. More Astrolite can be prepared by observing a 2:1 ratio of ammonium nitrate to hydrazine by weight and 1:5 of aluminum powder to ammonium nitrate by weight. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids and a stirring rod for mixing.
8.25 Dinitrochlorobenzene:
During the early chemical industry days of World War I there was a lot of spare chlorine floating about and there was a big demand for benzene which made it cheap and available. Put em together and you get chlorobenzene and dichlorobenzene,of which p-dichlorobenzene is a type of mothball still used today. The nitration of chlorobenzene was started around 1862 by A. Riche. Dinitrodichlorobenzene was first manufactured as an explosive called parazol. It was mixed with with TNT in shells but did not detonate completely. Instead, the unexploded portion was atomized in the air and was a vigorous itchproducer and lachrymator (causes tears like mace), it also yielded some phosgene gas which was a dreadful chemical weapon used back then. Dinitrochlorobenzene finds more use as an ingredient in the manufacture of other explosives than as an actual explosive itself, although it has been mixed with picric acid for use in shells. Avoid contact with the solid and vapors of this chemical, it causes severe itching, as well as weakness, low blood count, digestive organ damage, and heart failure. The proper name of this compound is 1-chloro-2,4-dinitrobenzene for the most abundant isomer, and 2-chloro-1,3dinitrobenzene for the other isomer. Other names include 2,4-dinitro-1-chlorobenzene; 2,4dinitrochlorobenzene; 1,3-dinitro-4-chlorobenzene; chlorodinitrobenzene; DNCB; and 4-chloro-1,3dinitrobenzene.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
chlorobenzene 1000-mL beaker nitric acid
graduated cylinder
sulfuric acid pipet/buret
water
stirrer/stirring rod thermometer
90 mL of chlorobenzene is added dropwise with a dropper pipet or buret to a previously prepared, and cooled to room temperature, mixture of 110 mL of 99% nitric acid and 185 mL of 99% sulfuric acid, in a 1000-mL beaker, while the mixture is stirred mechanically with a magnetic stirrer. A stirrer is essential for the length of time required, you may try this by hand with a stirring rod at your own risk. The temperature will rise because of the heat of the reaction, but should not be allowed to go above 5055 °C. After all the chlorobenzene has been added, the temperature is slowly raised to 95 °C and is kept there for 2 hours longer while the stirring is continued. An upper layer of light yellow liquid solidifies when cold. The layer is removed, broken up under water, and rinsed. The spent acid, on dilution with water, will precipitate an additional quantity of dinitrochlorobenzene. All the product is brought together, washed with cold water, then several times with hot water while it is melted, and once more with cold water under which it is crushed. Finally, it is drained and allowed to dry at room temperature. The product, melting at about 50 °C, consists largely of 2,4-dinitrochlorobenzene, along with a small quantity of the 2,6-dinitro compound, m.p. 87-88 °C. The two substances are equally suitable for manufacture of other explosives or alone as an explosive. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.26 HMTD:
HMTD, or hexamethylenetriperoxidediamine, is a somewhat unstable primary explosive compound. Its extreme sensitivity to heat, shock, and friction make HMTD a poor choice for the lesser skilled home chemist. This lab uses hydrogen peroxide at 30% concentration, it is possible to use the more common 3% concentration by adding ten times as much. The hexamethylenetetramine used here, also called hexamine, methenamine, or urintropine, can be purchased as "heating tablets." As to what heating tablets are... They are used in camping and in the military for heating meals, or hand warmers. It is very
unlikely that you will find this anymore, so synthesize your own as described in the chemical synthesis section. HMTD has been used as a detonator, it is safer and more powerful than mercury fulminate or acetone peroxide. It is stable when compared to other primary explosives, and it is one of the safest explosive peroxides. HMTD should be kept cool and dry as it may evaporate or decompose, it should also be kept away from metals as it will corrode them. HMTD will detonate if struck, but will only burn if heated.
CHEMICALS citric acid
APPARATUS 200-mL beaker
methenamine hydrogen peroxide
graduated cylinder stirrer/stirring rod
methyl/ethyl alcohol thermometer water
Dissolve 14 g of methenamine in 50 mL of 30% hydrogen peroxide in a 200-mL beaker while stirring vigorously with a magnetic stirrer or with a stirring rod. You must also cool this solution by placing the beaker in a salt-ice bath. While stirring, slowly add 21 g of powdered citric acid in small portions to the beaker making sure the temperature stays at or below 0 °C at all times. After adding the citric acid, keep stirring for 3 hours and continue to hold the temperature at 0 °C. Next, remove the beaker from the cooling bath and let it stand at room temperature for 2 hours, discontinue stirring as well. Finally, pour the solution over a filter to collect the crystals of HMTD, wash them thoroughly with water, and rinse with methyl or ethyl alcohol so they can dry faster at room temperature. Dry by setting in a cool place. HMTD does not store well, so deal with it immediately. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.27 HNIW:
HNIW is an acronym for hexanitrohexaazaisowurtzitane, other names include CL-20; octahydro1,3,4,7,8,10-hexanitro-5,2,6-(iminomethenimino)-1H-imidazo[4,5-b]pyrazine; 2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro2,4,6,8,10,12-hexaazatetracyclo[5.5.0.05,9.03,11]dodecane; and 2,4,6,8,10,12-hexanitro-2,4,6,8,10,12hexaazaisowurtzitane. HNIW is a new kid on the block, it was first prepared by A.T. Nielsen in 1987, and has since been proposed as a propellent for bullets and as a blasting explosive. There are actually 6 crystalline isomers of HNIW, this lab will prepare the beta form, although some of the alpha form will probably be made. The other isomers are made by heating the crystals to its decomposition point, the alpha and beta forms are the most stable. This explosive will most likely be the standard workhorse of the 21st century, it is currently still in testing for useful applications. HNIW is a symmetric polyazacyclic nitramine, itself a type of caged polynitramine, a promising new series of compounds. HNIW is similar to RDX and HMX in structure and explosive properties. This is a two part lab, the first synthesizing a derivative called tetraacetyldibenzylhexaazaisowurtzitane (TADB), then from that, HNIW.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetic anhydride
500-mL Florence flask
bromobenzene
graduated cylinder
chloroform
stirrer/stirring rod
N,N-dimethylformamide ethyl acetate ethyl alcohol HBIW hydrogen nitrogen nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate Pearlman's catalyst sulfolane water
thermometer
Prepare a solution of 129 mL of N,N-dimethylformamide and 65 mL of acetic anhydride in a roundbottomed 500-mL Florence flask. Add to the flask, with stirring, 43.2 g of HBIW, 0.8 mL of bromobenzene, and 4.7 g of Pearlman's catalyst. Purge the flask by bubbling hydrogen gas in the liquid ,this will displace the air. Continue to bubble hydrogen gas into the flask and stir. If possible, maintain a pressure of 50 psi. Over a short period of time, the temperature may rise to about 50 °C, at this temperature begin cooling the flask with a cold water or salt-ice bath to keep it under 50 °C. The total reaction time needed is 24 hours. Since it is undesirable to bubble hydrogen gas through the flask for this length of time, as much would be wasted, a pressure is maintained. During the reaction, stop cooling if the temperature drops below 35 °C, always keep it between 35-50 °C. Stir the contents of the flask for the entire 24 hours. Purge the flask by bubbling nitrogen gas into it to displace any remaining hydrogen. Filter the contents of the flask to collect the solid material and the catalyst. Wash with 130 mL of denatured ethyl alcohol, this should leave behind a gray solid of Pearlman's catalyst and TADB. The TADB can be separated from the catalyst by dissolving the solid in boiling chloroform, and filtering to remove the remaining solid catalyst. Boil the chloroform down to recrystallize the TADB. The yield is about 85%.
Prepare a solution of 15.5 g of the above prepared TADB, 1.1 mL of water, and 300 mL of sulfolane in a round bottomed 500-mL Florence flask on a salt-ice bath. Add 10.5 g of nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate to the flask over a period of 30 minutes, keeping the temperature below 25 °C. After the addition, stir the mixture for 1 hour at 25 °C, then for 1 hour at 55-60 °C. Allow the solution, which should be a yelloworange color, to cool to 25 °C. After cooling, rapidly add 47.8 g of nitrosyl tetrafluoroborate, keeping the temperature below 25 °C. Stir the mixture at 25 °C for 2 hours, then at 55-60 °C for 2 hours. Cool the mixture to below 10 °C with a salt-ice bath, then dump the contents, solid precipitate and all, into a large bucket. Slowly add 4.5 L of water to the mixture in the bucket, keeping the temperature below 25 °C, the color of the solution should change from green to yellow, some brown fumes may be evolved. Maintain the temperature at 25 °C with continuous stirring for 18 hours, a white precipitate should form. Filter to collect this crude HNIW, and wash several times with water to yield about 12 g of hydrated product. To purify the HNIW, dissolve it in 40 mL of ethyl acetate, chromatographically filter the solution through a short column of silica get, and wash with ethyl acetate. Pour the filtered solution into 500 mL of chloroform to precipitate the HNIW in its anhydrous beta form. The chromatographic filtration can be skipped. If pale yellow crystals are obtained as the crude product, it is the wrong stuff. Heat these crystals in 15 mL of water per 1 g of product at 95 °C with stirring for 10 minutes, then cool to 0 °C. After standing for 6 hours, filter and wash the crude product as above, it should be HNIW now. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.28 HNO:
HNO stands for 2,4,6,2',4',6'-hexanitro-oxanilide. This material uses the explosive TNO as its precursor. HNO was first prepared by A.G. Perkins in 1892 when he did nitrations of TNO and from oxanilide. HNO is a stable compound that resists mechanical shock, friction, and heat. Compared to TNO this compound is fairly similar, it has, perhaps, slightly greater stability and explosive power. HNO is used as a component in ignitors and pyrotechnics.
CHEMICALS acetone ethyl alcohol nitric acid sulfuric acid
APPARATUS beaker Buchner funnel 1000-mL Florence flask graduated cylinder
tetranitro-oxanilide litmus paper water
stirrer/stirring rod
thermometer
Prepare an acid mixture by pouring 125 mL of 90% nitric acid into a round bottomed 1000-mL Florence flask. Slowly add 55 mL of concentrated sulfuric acid. Set the flask into a salt-ice bath and cool it to 10 °C. You will need a magnetic stirrer if using a flask, otherwise stir by hand with a stirring rod in a beaker with extreme caution. Slowly add 29.2 of tetranitro-oxanilide (TNO) to the mixed acid with rapid agitation while keeping the temperature between 8-10 °C, this should require about 25 minutes. After adding the TNO, transfer the flask to a water bath and heat it to 85 °C over a 2 hour period, then hold
the temperature between 85-90 ° for 1 hour more. The HNO slurry is filtered on a Buchner funnel and washed with water until it is almost acid free. The filter cake is placed in a beaker and sufficient water added to form a slurry. Steam is run into the slurry under agitation for 10 minutes. The slurry is filtered and the residue washed. The latter treatment of the slurry is repeated until the wash water is found to be neutral to litmus paper. The HNO is washed with ethyl alcohol, then acetone, dried in the air, and finally dried at 100-110 °C. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.29 IPN:
IPN is an acronym for isopropyl nitrate, its proper scientific name is 2-propyl nitrate. IPN is a white liquid with an ether like smell. IPN is a volatile liquid with anesthetic properties at lower concentrations as well as causing headaches if inhaled or spilled on the skin. Ingesting or constant inhalation of quantities exceeding 4% for two or more hours is lethal. Quantities as low as 0.2% show no ill effects. This substance has found uses as rocket propellents and jet starter fuel when it is not being used as a propellent or explosive. The liquid is stable for the most part although it is flammable.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
isopropyl alcohol Florence flask nitric acid urea
To prepare IPN, isopropyl alcohol is nitrated continuously by adding a mixture of 61% nitric acid with 95% isopropyl alcohol, saturated with urea, into a Florence flask set up for distillation containing boiling 50% nitric acid. The IPN and water formed are continuously distilled off at about 98 °C from the reaction mixture. The volume of the reaction mixture is held constant by drainage of nitric acid and unstable byproducts from it as the reactants are added. Unless you have a special flask with a stopcock on the bottom, you will have to periodically disconnect the flask from the condenser and dump out some of the
used nitric acid. You will also have to momentarily disconnect the flask to add more acid/alcohol mix if you do not have an addition funnel. Be very careful doing this as you will subject yourself to a blast of acid fumes. A curtain of air, nitrogen, or carbon dioxide is blown through the reaction mixture to improve mixing and to facilitate the elimination of the volatile products. However, a flow of inert gas in excess of 50 L/hr decreases the IPN yield. The optimum ratio of nitric acid to isopropyl alcohol is about 2:1. The IPN yield is 78%.
8.30 MEDINA:
MEDINA stands for methylene dinitramine, and is also called methylenedinitramine and N,Ndinitromethanediamine. This compound was first prepared around 1949 at the University of Bristol by the hydrolysis of hexamine. This compound is not cruelty free (heh heh), it has been sprayed into rabbit eyes and injected under guinea pigs skins. The compound has been found to be non-toxic. This lab does not exactly fit in well with normal laboratory procedures as this information is the industrial laboratory method. Since this is the industrial method and it is still made in the lab I conclude this substance is either not used much or is to dangerous, I am leaning towards not used much. This is surprising as this explosive is quite powerful for such a small and simple molecule. Its real fault lies in the fact that it does not keep well, so use it soon after preparing.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetic anhydride 50 & 250-mL beaker acetone
buret
charcoal
2-L Florence flask
ethyl acetate
graduated cylinder
ethyl alcohol
stirrer/stirring rod
ethyl chloride
thermometer
formamide
formic acid isopropyl alcohol methenamine nitric acid 2-nitropropane paraffin sodium hydroxide sodium sulfate water xylene
This is a three step process for the manufacture of MEDINA: In a round bottom 2-L Florence flask, mix 476 mL of formamide and 70 g of methenamine. The flask is set up for refluxing, and heated at 140 °C for 5 hours. It is then chilled in ice, the solid is filtered, and washed on a filter with 90 g of formamide. The crude product of methylenediformamide may be used in the next step or purified by dissolving in ethyl alcohol, decolorizing with charcoal, and chilling.
19 mL of 100% nitric acid is added dropwise with a buret while stirring to a suspension of 5 g of crude methylenediformamide in 19 mL of acetic anhydride cooled to 10-15 °C in a 50-mL beaker. The solution is then held at 0 °C for 2 hours, and poured with stirring into a 250-mL beaker filled with 150 mL of ice water. The precipitate is filtered, washed twice by mixing with ice water, pressed dry on the filter, and dissolved in 30 mL of ethyl acetate. The solution is seperated from water, dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate, concentrated in vacuum, 10 mL of isopropyl alcohol is added, and the product is collected. The product is methylene di(nitroformamide), which can be purified by recrystallization from either acetone, isopropyl alcohol, or from boiling ethyl chloride.
The crude methylene di(nitroformamide) is pressed dry on the filter, stirred into 105 mL of formic acid, and the paste is allowed to stand overnight. The next day the solution is filtered through an acid filter, the formic acid and water is removed by distilling with xylene, and the crude MEDINA, which seperates as a sand, is filtered and dried over paraffin and sodium hydroxide in vacuum. The crude
MEDINA is recrystallized from 2-nitropropane or a 9:1 solution of ethyl chloride/isopropyl alcohol. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.31 MMAN:
MMAN is an acronym for monomethylamine nitrate, it is also called methylamine nitrate. It is a powerful and stable primary explosive compound. Its stability makes it a better choice for a primary explosive and as a test of the independent chemist's skill. When used as a blasting cap it will probably require some other more sensitive material to help it along, but when it explodes it will detonate even insensitive explosives. The only problem with it is that it is a hygroscopic compound, so keep it very tightly sealed in storage. Another snag is the methylamine solution used, it is not a supermarket item now that drug dealers have made it a DEA watched chemical, it is easy to make though. A note on nitric acid: You can use any concentration of acid from 20% and up, it is the volume of acid that is required. I have given the volume for pure acid, adjust as needed for lesser solutions.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
methylamine 1000-mL beaker nitric acid desiccator graduated cylinder stirrer/stirring rod
Place 250 mL of 33% methylamine solution in a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly add, with stirring, 385 mL of 100% nitric acid. It will be helpful to divide the acid into four equal portions of 96 mL each and use a saltice bath. The acid addition will generate substantial heat and may boil, wait until the solution cools a little before adding the next portion. It is not necessary to add concentrated nitric acid, a concentration
as low as 20% will suffice. You must still add the equivalent of 385 mL of pure acid. Remember there is 1 mL of pure acid per 1% of solution in 100 mL. A 20% solution would require 1925 mL. After adding the acid, test the solution with pH paper, or litmus paper. The result must be near pH 7 if using the pH paper and be neutral if using litmus paper. If the solution is acidic add methylamine until pH 7 is reached. If the solution is basic add nitric acid until pH 7 is reached. Evaporate the liquid to precipitate the crystals of MMAN by heating until a slurry is reached, then use vacuum drying to remove the rest of the water. Because the MMAN is hygroscopic, it will be impossible to drive off all the water unless heated under vacuum or placed in a desiccator. Extreme care must be taken when heating an explosive IT CAN EXPLODE. MMAN is safe enough that it only burns when strongly heated. Use either a hotplate, steam bath, or oil bath to heat the explosive. If you have access to vacuum equipment use the vacuum drying method. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, and a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing.
8.32 NPN:
NPN is an acronym for n-propyl nitrate, it also has the names propyl nitrate; monopropyl nitrate; 1propyl nitrate; and propyl ester of nitric acid. This substance is a watery white liquid that is extremely toxic if inhaled. It is very stable, it can be knocked around for a good bit before detonating, but increasing the temperature will increase the sensitivity. This substance can be detonated while vaporized making it a good fuel-air explosive, The maximum detonation velocity that can be achieved is 1,900 m/s at 21% concentration in air. Anything more or less will have a lower velocity and is thus less powerful. NPN has found many uses in industry, the list includes: rocket propellent, jet motor starting fuel, turbine motor fuel, a degreasing solvent for iron and aluminum, and a diesel fuel additive just to name a few.
CHEMICALS ethyl acetate
APPARATUS stirrer/stirring rod
isopropyl alcohol thermometer nitric acid
n-propyl alcohol sodium carbonate sulfuric acid
NPN can be prepared by reacting n-propyl alcohol with 70% nitric acid dissolved in ethyl acetate. During the reaction the temperature must be kept at 20 °C, the product can then be extracted by distillation.
NPN can also be prepared by reacting a continuous stream of propyl alcohol below the surface of a stirred mixed acid composed of 20% nitric acid, 68% sulfuric acid, and 12% by weight of water in an open stainless steel vessel cooled to 0-5 °C. Additional mixed acid is also simultaneously introduced at about a third of the depth of the liquid. An overflow pipe maintains a constant reactant level and the effluent product is separated, washed with aqueous 10% sodium carbonate solution, and dried by passage through a Filtrol packed tower with 50% isopropyl alcohol as the solvent at 0 °C. Yield is about 66.5%. Sorry, I have no volumes to give you. You will need a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.33 PVN:
PVN stands for polyvinyl nitrate, which means that this explosive is a continually linked chain of vinyl nitrate over and over again. The material appears to be a white powder if the polymer has fewer links in the molecule and as tough white strands if there are many links in the molecule. PVN was first prepared in Germany in 1929 by G. Frank and H. Kruger by nitrating polyvinyl alcohol. This laboratory procedure comes from, I believe, two French scientists named Chédin and Tribot who experimented on method of PVN preparation after WWII. The densities of PVN can vary depending on the density of the starting polyvinyl alcohol and range from a low 0.3 g/mL to 1.5 g/mL and corresponding detonation velocities of 2030 m/s to 6560 m/s. Obviously it is better to have a higher density product. This product has found a niche in military applications mainly in propellents, but not so much in industrial applications.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
acetic anhydride 250-mL beaker ethyl alcohol nitric acid
graduated cylinder stirrer/stirring rod
polyvinyl alcohol thermometer sodium bicarbonate vacuum desiccator water
Over a period of 1 hour, very slowly add 5 g of finely pulverized polyvinyl alcohol (containing 10% moisture) to 100 mL of 99-100 nitric acid in a 250-mL beaker. The beaker should be in a salt-ice bath to provide cooling during the addition. Maintain constant stirring and a temperature of -8 °C throughout the addition, and for an additional 2 hours after the addition. The resulting slurry is slowly drowned in an equal volume of ice water while vigorously stirring. Filter this to collect the white powder that should have formed, wash the powder with water until neutral to litmus, then put it in clean water for 12 hours. Repeat the washing and standing process using 95% ethyl alcohol, and again repeat the process with 12% sodium bicarbonate solution. Finally, the powder is washed with water until neutral to litmus, dried in the open air, then in a vacuum desiccator. The yield is about 96%. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
It may be possible to increase the nitration yield by adding the polyvinyl alcohol to acetic anhydride first and using more nitric acid, the procedure is followed as above.
Here are the formulas for WC846 and M9 propellants: 82% PVN
57.75% PVN
10.2% nitroglycerin 40.0% nitroglycerin 0.7% dinitrotoluene 1.50% potassium nitrate 6.1% dibutylphthalate 0.75% ethyl centralite
1.0% diphenylamine 0.50% ethyl alcohol
And, yes, M9 does add up to 100.5%, the alcohol is supposed to be just trace amounts, but is listed as 0.5% for some reason.
8.34 TeNN:
TeNN is an acronym for tetranitronaphthalene. There are actually several isomers of TeNN, we are primarily concerned with 1,3,6,8-tetranitronaphthalene as it forms in abundance over the 1,2,4,6-; 1,2,5,8-; 1,2,6,8-; 1,3,5,7-; 1,3,5,8-; and 1,4,5,8-tetranitronaphthalenes. A mixture of isomers is bound to occur, though. TeNN is a very powerful and quite stable high explosive compound. It is actually slightly more powerful that TNT and just as stable. This explosive is superb because of its primary ingredient naphthalene. Naphthalene is the chemical name for moth balls, it is cheap, easy to get, not to hazardous, and sold in a store near you. I keep waiting for the government to ban it, or some environMeNtaList whacko to launch a save the moths campaign to ban it. The only drawback to TeNN is the possibility of side reactions reducing the yield during synthesis. Rapid heating of TeNN will cause it to explode, but slow heating will only cause decomposition. This lab uses concentrated sulfuric and nitric acids which are not so common, but still obtainable. Making TeNN is a multi step synthesis, first making mononitro then 1,8-dinitronaphthalene.
CHEMICALS acetone ethyl alcohol naphthalene nitric acid
APPARATUS 1000-mL beaker 2000-mL beaker graduated cylinder stirrer/stirring rod
potassium nitrate thermometer sulfuric acid water
Prepare a mixture of 64 g of powdered naphthalene with 105 mL of water in a 1000-mL beaker. Slowly add 160 mL of 95% sulfuric acid to the beaker then add 81 mL of 70% nitric acid. Stir this mixture occasionally and allow it to cool to room temperature. During a 3 hour period, slowly add with stirring 150 g of powdered naphthalene to the acid mixture. The temperature will rise, regulate the addition of the naphthalene to get the temperature at 50 °C by the end of the addition time. After all of the naphthalene has been added, continue stirring and heat the beaker to 55 °C for several minutes then stop stirring and allow the mix to cool. Some mononitronaphthalene should crystallize on the surface of the beaker.
Prepare a second nitrating mixture by putting 300 mL of 53% sulfuric acid in a 1000-mL beaker. Cool the acid to 25 °C by placing in a salt-ice bath. Add 152 g of potassium nitrate to the acid while stirring rapidly. Remove the mononitronaphthalene from the previous reaction and crush it up, add it in small bits while stirring to the mixture, maintain the temperature between 38 °C and 45 °C. The addition should require about 1 hour, do not allow the temperature to go over 45 °C at any time during the addition. After the addition, continue stirring and heat the beaker to 55 °C until the formation of dinitronaphthalene crystals begin. Filter the contents of the beaker on an acid filter to collect the crystals of dinitronaphthalene that should have formed. Wash the crystals with six portions of cold water and allow them to dry. Dissolve the dry crystals in boiling acetone. Filter this solution while hot to remove any undissolved impurities, collect the filtrate and allow it to cool by placing in a salt-ice bath. Filter to collect the pure crystals of dinitronaphthalene. Collect the acetone filtrate from this filtering, boil it to reduce the volume by half, and cool in a salt-ice bath. Again filter to collect a second crop of dinitronaphthalene, add these crystals to the previous and allow them to dry.
Prepare the final nitrating acid mixture by slowly adding 750 mL of 100% sulfuric acid to 750 mL of 100% fuming nitric acid in a 2000-mL beaker. Cool the acid mix to below 20 °C with a salt-ice bath. Once below this temperature, slowly add with stirring the dry dinitronaphthalene from the previous reaction while maintaining the temperature at 20 °C during the addition. After the addition, slowly heat the mixture to 80 °C over a 1 hour period (1 degree higher every minute) then hold the temperature at 8090 °C for 3 hours more. Allow the mixture to cool then filter on an acid filter to collect the crystals of TeNN that should have formed. Collect the filtrate and drown it in ice water to precipitate additional crystals of TeNN. Filter to collect these crystals and combine them with the other crystals. Wash the
crystals with several portions of water then add them to 95% ethyl alcohol. Allow the crystals to dissolve, then cool in a salt-ice bath to recrystallize the now pure TeNN. The pure crystals can be filtered to collect them and dried by heating on a steam bath.
You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature for these procedures.
8.35 TNPEN:
TNPEN is an acronym for ß-(2,4,6-trinitrophenoxy) ethanol nitrate, also called 2,4,6trinitrophenoxyethyl nitrate; or glycoltrinitrophenylether nitrate. TNPEN was first prepared by H.A. Lewis back in 1925, others have since revised the method, with this particular preparation developed by R.C. Elderfield in 1943. TNPEN will ignite when heated in the open and will detonate if struck as if by a hammer, so its stability is not that low, compared to TNT it is as stable and has 122% the explosive power. There is some conflicting data that indicates the stability may be lower. The recommended uses of this explosive are in detonators or boosters, and as an ingredient in propellents. The detonation velocity ranges from 5500 m/s to 6600 m/s depending on the density which can range from 1.15 g/mL to 1.6 g/mL
CHEMICALS acetone
APPARATUS beaker
ß-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol 250-mL Florence flask ethyl alcohol nitric acid sulfuric acid water
graduated cylinder glass filter paper stirrer/stirring rod thermometer
Prepare a solution of 10 g of ß-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol in 55 mL of 94% sulfuric acid in a small beaker. Prepare a second solution of 21.5 mL of sulfuric acid, 13.2 mL of nitric acid, and 15.7 mL of water in a round bottomed 250-mL Florence flask, chill this solution to between 0-10 °C with a salt-ice bath. It does not matter what concentration of acids are mixed so long as the total water content comes out to 15.7 mL. While stirring, slowly add the ß-(2,4-dinitrophenoxy) ethanol solution to the cold acid mix. When the addition is complete, the temperature is raised in 30 minute intervals to 20 °C, 30 °C, 40 °C, 60 °C, and in a 15 minute interval to 70 °C. After chilling, the cream-colored crystals are filtered using glass filter paper, washed free of acid, and recrystallized by dissolving in acetone and adding ethyl alcohol. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.36 TNPht:
TNPht is also known as ethyl picrate; aethyl-[2,4,6-trinitrophenyl]-ather; pikrinsaureaethylather, or aethylpikrat in German; keineyaku, or keyneyaku in Japanese. The proper scientific name for this substance is 2,4,6-trinitrophenetole. This explosive is almost as powerful as TNT but its sensitivity is not all that great. This explosive would be classified as a booster, it needs a detonator to set it off and then it would set off a high explosive. This material was tested in France during WWI in shells as a bursting charge. The Japanese used it during WWII as a substitute for TNT because they had a shortage of toluene. This lab was developed by L. Desvergnes around 1922.
CHEMICALS
APPARATUS
2,4-dinitrophenetole 500-mL beaker nitric acid sulfuric acid
graduated cylinder stirrer/stirring rod
water
thermometer
Dissolve 53 g of 2,4-dinitrophenetole in 95 mL of 95-98% sulfuric acid in a 500-mL beaker while stirring. Add 62% nitric acid so that the temperature rises rapidly to 30 °C. Continue the addition, while maintaining the temperature between 30-40 °C by cooling with a salt-ice bath, until a total of 30 mL of nitric acid has been added. Pour the resulting yellow slurry into about 1500 mL of cold water, filter to collect the crystals, wash the crystals with cold water, and dry. There should be about 61.8 g of product, or 96% of the theoretical yield. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids, a stirring rod or magnetic stirrer for mixing, and a thermometer to monitor the temperature.
8.37 Tetranitromethane:
Tetranitromethane, also called TeNMe, is a colorless to pale yellow liquid that was first prepared by the action of nitric acid on trinitromethane back in 1861. The Germans used it back in WWII for an intermediate in making other explosives and as a substitute for nitric acid in the V-2 rocket. A pilot plant in New Jersey used to make tetranitromethane blew up in 1953. This compound is rather toxic, irritating the skin, mucous membranes and the respiratory tract. Prolonged exposure to vapors causes damage to the liver, kidneys, and other organs. A concentration of 0.1 ppm in the air is fatal. Mixtures of tetranitromethane with organic liquids tend to form more powerful explosives, but the sensitivity is worse. A list of mixtures has been provided. Tetranitromethane has been proposed as a chemical warfare agent.
CHEMICALS acetic anhydride nitric acid sodium hydroxide
APPARATUS addition funnel beaker Clasien adapter
sodium sulfate water
desiccator 250-ml Florence flask
graduated cylinder thermometer
This reaction will produce toxic fumes, so take the necessary precautions. Measure out 21 mL of 100% nitric acid into a round-bottomed 250-ml Florence flask. It is important to only use anhydrous acid and no more than the amount proscribed, any deviation will drastically lower the yield of this reaction. Place a Clasien adapter on the flask and attach a thermometer on the straight arm, almost touching the bottom of the flask, and an addition funnel on the side arm. In this instance do not use a thermometer adapter to connect the thermometer, there must be a gap to allow reaction gasses to escape. Cool the contents of the flask to 10 °C in an ice water bath. Slowly add 47.2 mL of acetic anhydride in portions of 0.5 mL at a time from the buret. Do not let the temperature of the mixture rise above 10 °C during the addition, failure to maintain the temp may result in a dangerous runaway reaction. After the first 5 mL of acid has been added the reaction should have calmed down enough where you can begin to add larger portions of 1 to 5 mL at a time with constant shaking. After all the acetic anhydride has been added, everything is removed from the flask. The neck of the flask is wiped clean with a towel, the flask is then covered with an inverted beaker, and it is now allowed to come up to room temperature in the ice bath. It is important to keep the flask in the ice bath because the reaction can still become dangerous if it is allowed to warm up too rapidly. The flask should be left alone for 1 week (yes, 7 days) at room temperature. After sitting for a week the contents are mixed with 300 mL of water in a 500-mL Florence flask. The tetranitromethane is removed by steam distillation, the tetranitromethane passes over with the first 20 mL of the distillate. The lower layer of the distillate is separated, washed with dilute sodium hydroxide, and then water, and finally dried over anhydrous sodium sulfate in a desiccator. Yield is 14–16 g, or about 57-65%. Do not distill tetranitromethane by ordinary distillation means, it may explode. The residues of distillation are especially dangerous. Use only steam distillation, and even then be careful. You will need a graduated cylinder for measuring liquids.
Explosive mixtures with organic compounds Tetranitromethane can be mixed with several compounds including benzene, ethylene glycol, gasoline, naphthalene, and toluene, but the resulting explosive may be rather sensitive to detonation. Here are some mixing ratios:
-87:13 mixture of benzene and TeNMe
-1:1 mixture of ethylene glycol and TeNMe
-varying amounts of gasoline or diesel mixed with TeNMe are powerful but very sensitive, I suspect that the more TeNMe there is the more sensitive it will be
-1 mole naphthalene to 2 moles TeNMe
-4 moles of nitromethane to 1 mole TeNMe
-mixing 10-40% paraffins and 60-90% TeNMe will make powerful explosives that are resistant to mechanical shock but detonate by explosive shock
-mixing with toluene creates a very powerful explosive (>8000 m/s) that is more unstable than nitroglycerine
8.38 CH-6
CH-6 is a mixture of 97.5% RDX, 1.5% calcium stearate, 0.5% polyisobutylene, and 0.5% graphite. It is a finely divided gray powder that is less toxic and more available than tetryl.
8.39 Composition A-5
Composition A-5 is a mixture of 98.5% RDX and 1.5% stearic acid.
8.40 COMPOSITION A-3.-
Composition A-3 is a wax-coated, granular explosive, consisting of 91% RDX and 9% desensitizing wax.
8.41 COMPOSITION B.-
Composition B is a mixture of 59% RDX, 40% TNT, and 1% wax. The TNT reduces the sensitivity of the RDX to a safe degree and, because of its melting point, allows the material to be cast-loaded.
8.42 PBXN-5
PBXN-5 is referred to as a plastic-bonded explosive because it is an explosive coated with plastic material. The composition is made of 95% HMX and 5% fluoroelastomers.
8.43 Methyl Ethyl Ketone Peroxide(MEKP):
PREPARATION AND PROPERTIES OF METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE
The three most common forms of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide are:
MONOMERIC: C4H10(O)4
DIMERIC: C8H18(O)6
ANHYDROUS DIMERIC: C8H16(O)4
The anhydrous dimeric form is the preferable form to create; it is more powerful and less sensitive to shock. Bot hforms are very sensitive to heat. Anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide takes many times as sharp of a blow from a hammer to initiate detonation than with trimeric acetone peroxide. This is due to several factors:
(1) It is an oily liquid, not a solid, A solid will not shift shape to fit its container, as will a liquid. Thus, when trimeric acetone peroxide is struck with a hammer, the crystals shatter, causing decomposition; when anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is struck with a hammer, it will shift shape significantly, often avoiding decomposition.
(2) The C-O-O-C group is better shielded in anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide. Thus, random energy surges will be less likely to affect the C-O-O-C group enough to break all of the bonds in the group, which would result in exothermic decomposition, likely starting a chain reaction; this would be perceived as detonation. (3) There is less stress on the peroxide groups in anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide than in trimeric acetone peroxide (bond stress is mostly responsible for monomeric acetone peroxide's incredible instability, and anhydrous dimeric acetone peroxide's relative instability when compared to trimeric acetone peroxide). (4) The decomposition to an exothermic stage of decomposition of a single molecule of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide requires more energy than with a single molecule of trimeric acetone peroxide. (5) Less energy is liberated from the decomposition of a single anhydrous methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecule, causing it to be less likely that detonation will occur from the decomposition of just a handful of anhydrous methyl ethyl ketone peroxide molecules.
Perhaps the most valuable property of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is the fact that it can be stored for a long period of time. Chemical decomposition does not proceed beyond the monomeric form, with the obvious exception of deflagration and detonation. Autonomous chemical decomposition is very slow when not in the presence of hydrogen peroxide (which causes the anhydrous dimeric form to begin to decompose slowly into the monomeric form). Because of this, it is wise to prepare anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in an excess of methyl ethyl ketone (this fact has been factored into the below instruction on preparation of methyl ethyl ketone peroxide). Anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is a thick, oily liquid. The anhydrous dimeric form, when pure, possesses a sharp, sour, acidic "burning" odor. The procedure for preparation that will soon be discussed will produce mostly the anhydrous dimeric form.
PREPARATION OF ANHYDROUS DIMERIC METHYL ETHYL KETONE PEROXIDE:
CHEMICALS NEEDED:
-40mL 27.5% H2O2 solution (other concentrations may be used; the volume of hydrogen peroxide solution will need to be adjusted accordingly; the quantity of sulfuric acid used will also need to be adjusted) -25mL Methyl Ethyl Ketone CH3COCH2CH3 (sold as a solvent at hardware stores; keep in mind that it will dissolve most plastics) -5mL 98% sulfuric acid (other concentrations may be used, the volume of sulfuric acid will need to be adjusted accordingly) -200mL NaHCO3 solution
procedure:
1) Place 25mL of methyl ethyl ketone in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in an ice bath at temperatures ranging preferrably from -10 to 5 degrees Celcius; the lower end of the described recommended temperature range is preferrable.
2) Place 40mL of 27.5% H2O2 solution in a 100mL beaker. Place this beaker in an ice bath at temperatures ranging preferrably from -10 to 5 degrees Celcius; the lower end of the described recommended temperature range is preferrable.
3) Wait fro the temperature of both the methyl ethyl ketone and the temperature of the 27.5% H2O2 solution to fall into the recommended temperature range. Then, pour the beaker of methyl ethyl ketone into the beaker of hydrogen peroxide solution. Stir this solution for thirty seconds.
4) Add 5mL of 98% sulfuric acid slowly, drop by drop, taking care to keep temperatures within the recommended temperature range, into the beaker containing the monomeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. If the temperature rises above 5 degrees Celcius, stop adding the sulfuric acid immediately.
5) After all of the sulfuric acid is added, wait 24 hours. It is highly recommended to attempt to keep the temperatures within the recommended temperature range during the entirety of every step of the prepataion (this is a very common mistake made when attempting to make trimeric acetone peroxide; most will not bother to keep the temperatures around zero degrees Celcius while waiting 24 hours or so for the reaction to complete; the result of that is far less stable acetone peroxide due to lower yields of the trimeric form and higher yields of the dimeric form).
6) The beaker should now have two layers; a thick oily layer on the top, and a translucent white, relatively thin liquid on the bottom. The thick oily layer on top is the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide. All traces of acid must now be removed. Pour this beaker into a 300mL beaker. Then slowly add 200mL of NaHCO3 solution. Stir vigorously for five minutes; try to keep the size of the pockets of the oily liquid (the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide) as small as possible when stirring.
7) Most of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide will now begin to sink to the bottom of the beaker. Extract it with a syringe. Some will also remain on the surface; extract this also with a syringe (it is possible to isolate the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide by decantation, but this process can be very time consuming, frusturating, and will not be able to harvest nearly as much of the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide as the syringe extraction method).
If you wish to further deacidify the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, place it in an airtight aluminum container, in an ice bath (extremely important!). Leave the methyl ethyl ketone peroxide in the airtight aluminum container until bubbles no longer form. A safer alternative to this process is to add noon-crumpled pieces of aluminum foil to the anhdrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide (also in an ice bath); however this will often make it difficult to recollect all of the anhdrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide, due to it sticking to the pieces of aluminum foil; it can be very difficult to remove from that surface.
9) Now pour the deacidified anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide into an open glass, or plastic (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!). Let it stay in the open at temperatures around 15 degrees Celcius to allow most of the water to evaporate off.
10) Now that the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide is dehydrated, it is ready for use.
STORAGE: Pour the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide into a sealed plastic container (not made of a polyhydrocarbon plastic!) for storage. The reason for sealing it is to prevent loss of anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide due to evaporation. The lower the temperatures are during storage, the better, with the exception of temperatures so low that it freezes the anhydrous dimeric methyl ethyl ketone peroxide.
Density of MEKP = 1.0g/cm3 Freezing point = approximately -5 to -10 degrees Celcius Dimeric 2-peroxybutane explodes upon contact with concentrated sulfuric acid.
It seems that dimeric 2-peroxybutane (MEKP) is more stable than previously thought. It does not explode unless severely shocked. I have tried to explode as much as 4mL using only fuse, and that resulted in nothing but a tall pillar of flame. It does explode with a sharp crack when hit *hard* with a hammer. I suggest using aqueous ammonia instead of sodium hydrogen carbonate for neutralizing acid.
A dimeric 2-peroxybutane / ammonium nitrate dynamite: 11mL (or grams) of dimeric 2-peroxybutane mixed with 100g of ammonium nitrate.
8.44 Nitrourea:
This is a simple ketonitramine which is very easy to make. Its main (only?) drawback is the fact that it is easily decomposed in the presence of moisture, and therefore must be kept absolutely anhydrous for increased storage stability. This is a two stage synthesis, first forming Urea Nitrate, which is also an explosive. I can't find density values for either of them at the moment, but Urea Nitrate has a max. VoD of around 4500 m/s and Nitrourea can get up to about 7000 m/s. I have not found the zinc salt of Nitrourea to be very useful, so I will not include it unless people actually want me to.
Step #1: The production of Urea Nitrate.
Materials:
30g of urea (cheaper lawn fertilisers, such as Wilkinson's own brand, are pure urea.), 35mL of 70% nitric acid, Distilled water, Acetone, Three 150mL beakers, A thermometer, A filter funnel, A fridge, Filter papers.
Procedure:
1) Put the urea in a 150mL beaker, and add 40mL of distilled water. Stir it with the thermometer until it has dissolved - it gets quite cold, so you'll need to warm it, or have a bit of patience. 2) Measure out the nitric acid into the other 150mL beaker. 3) Cool the nitric acid, and the urea solution, to 5*C in the fridge, or in an ice bath. 4) Slowly, while stirring with the thermometer, mix the two liquids, while keeping the temperature below 20*C. 5) Filter out the precipitate, and discard the solution. 6) Add the precipitate to 100mL of acetone in the third 150mL beaker, and stir it around with the thermometer.
7) Filter the Urea Nitrate out, and let it dry in a warm place.
Step #2: The production of Nitrourea.
You will need:
60g of Urea Nitrate, 90mL of conc. sulphuric acid, Distilled water, Alcohol, Ice, A salt/ice bath, A hot water bath, A thermometer, A filter funnel, Filter papers, Two 250mL beakers, A 500mL beaker.
1) Measure the sulphuric acid into a 250mL beaker, and cool it to -5*C in the salt/ice bath. 2) Slowly, while stirring and keeping the temperature below 0*C, add the Urea Nitrate. 3) 5 minutes after all the Urea Nitrate has been added, dump the mixture into 300mL of ice/water in the 500mL beaker. 4) Filter out the precipitate, and put it into the second 250mL beaker, containing 50mL of alcohol. 5) Heat this to the boiling point of the alcohol using the hot water bath, and while stirring add more alcohol, slowly, until all the Nitrourea has dissolved.
6) Chill this solution to 0*C in the salt/ice bath, filter out the precipitate and rinse it with cold alcohol. 7) Dry it in warm, dry air to prevent condensation of water on the precipitate. 8) The Nitrourea will now be pure, and can be stored for years in hard glass bottles if kept dry. 9) It's a good idea to keep it SLIGHTLY acidic, since alkalis accelerate it's decomposition when moist.
Step #1: The production of Urea Nitrate:
Yield, based on the amount of urea used:
Amount of urea used: 30.0 grams. Theoretical yield: 61.5 grams. Experimental yield: 55.5 grams. Percentage yield: 90.2%
Step #2: The conversion of Urea Nitrate to Nitrourea:
Yield, based on the amount of Urea Nitrate used:
Amount of Urea Nitrate used: 60.0 grams. Theoretical Yield: 51.2 grams. Experimental Yield: 30.4 grams. Percentage yield: 59.4%
Possible improvements:
Not much really. As with Hexamethylenetetramine Dinitrate, the liquid left after making one batch of Urea Nitrate can be used to dissolve the urea for the next batch, so that less Urea Nitrate is lost in the solution
8.45 Tetranitronapthalene:
This was once considered as a high explosive for use in artillery shells; as far as I know, the only reasons why it was not used are the facts that it was more expensive than Trinitrotoluene, and it didn't have the advantage of being safely castable. It is as stable as Trinitrotoluene and has the same oxygen balance. VoD is 7013 m/s at 1.60 g/cm3, therefore its relative briscancy under these conditions is 0.96.
Materials:
105g of napthalene, 320mL of 98% sulphuric acid, 140mL of 70% nitric acid, 60mL of 95% nitric acid,
5% sodium bicarbonate solution, Ethanol, A 250mL beaker, A 1.5L beaker, A 3L container, A hot water bath, An ice bath, A thermometer, A filter funnel, Filter papers.
Procedures:
Step #1: The production of mononitronapthalene.
1) Add 30g of powdered napthalene to 50mL of water in a 250mL beaker. Stir it around, and mix it together as good as you can (water and napthalene do not like mixing!) 2) Slowly add 80mL of the sulphuric acid, while stirring with the thermometer, and then add 60mL of the 70% nitric acid. Do not let the temperature rise above 30*C during either of the additions. 3) Slowly stir in a further 75g of napthalene, keeping the temperature at around 50*C using the ice bath and hot water bath. Hold it at this temperature, while stirring, for half an hour. 4) Heat the mixture to 60*C for 3 minutes, then let it cool to room temperature. 5) Remove the solidified mononitronapthalene from the surface of the liquid. This can be used in the next steps to make Tetranitronapthalene, or purified by stirring it around under 75*C 5% sodium bicarbonate solution, then several washes under hot water, if it is going to be used to make Cheddites.
Step #2: The production of 1,8-Dinitronapthalene.
1) In a 1.5L beaker surrounded by an ice bath, cool 160mL of sulphuric acid to around 15*C. 2) Slowly stir in 80mL of 70% nitric acid, keeping the temperature below 30*C. 3) Crush the mononitronapthalene from the previous step as finely as you can, and slowly stir it into the sulphuric acid/nitric acid mixture, keeping the temperature below 40*C. 4) After all the mononitronapthalene has been added, stir it occaisionally for half an hour, keeping the temperature at 20*C - 30*C. 5) After this time, slowly warm the mixture to 70*C, while stirring vigorously. This warming should last about half an hour. 6) Hold the temparature between 65*C and 75*C for half an hour, while stirring. 7) Let the mixture cool to room temperature, and dump it into 1L of cold water in a 3L container. Let the product settle. 8) Decant off most of the liquid from the product, and slowly add 2L of distilled water at about 40*C, while stirring. Let the product settle and repeat the washing.. 9) Filter the product out of the liquid, and let it dry. 10) Dissolve as much of the product as possible in near-boiling acetone, and filter the solution while hot. Cooling the filtrate in the freezer will precipitate 1,8-Dinitronapthalene (and unreacted Mononitronapthalene, if any) for the next step. The undissolved solid will be 1,5-Dinitronapthalene, which can be used in mixtures with Ammonium Nitrate or Chlorates.
Step #3: The production of 1,3,6,8-Tetranitronapthalene.
1) Chill 60mL of 95% nitric acid in a 500mL beaker, using a salt/icbath. 2) Once the acid is below 0*C, begin the addition of 80mL of 98% sulphuric acid, while stirring, keeping the temperature below 30*C. 3) After the acids have been mixed, add 20g of the powdered 1,8-Dinitronapthalene, as obtained above. Add it slowly, with rapid stirring, keeping the temperature between 25*C and 30*C.
4) After the addition, leave the mixture at room temperature for one hour, with occaisional stirring.] 5) After this time, slowly heat the mixture, while stirring rapidly, to 70*C to 80*C. This heating should be done over the period of about one hour, and the final temperature should be maintained, with stirring, for at least one further hour. 6) Cool the mixture and dump it into roughly three times its volume of cold distilled water. 7) Filter out the solids, wash them a few times with distilled water, and dry them. 8) Recrystalise them from ethanol.
9.0 Bombs
The info in this chapter are the experiences and procedures that other people have used. There are no guarantees about making these bombs.
9.1 C02 bomb:
C02 bombs(crater makers) are pretty much little hand grenades. They are also called crater makers because if you shove one in the ground and light it, there will be a small crater after it goes off. These little bastards are very useful and can be used for many other explosive devises.
Materials:
-Empty C02 cartridge -any fast burning gunpowder or flash powder -long cannon fuse(6+ inches)
-J-B Weld -screw driver -really small funnel
Instructions:
Take an empty C02 cartridge and widen the hole in the top with the screw driver as much as you can. Fill the C02 cartridge up with powder using the funnel. When it fills up with powder, tap the C02 cartridge on something hard so the powder packs down. Then put some more powder in, then tap it some more. Put the long cannon fuse in when you can’t get anymore powder in. Now make a batch of J-B Weld and put some on the top of the C.M. so the fuse and powder won’t come out. Let it dry. Pick a big open field, where no one with call the cops. Shove the C.M. in the ground and light it. Now RUN!…You don’t want to be by that shit when it goes off!
Tips:
-You can also use a rocket igniter and a power source as a fuse for better control and safety. Just make sure the wire running from the C.M. to the power source in REALLY long. -Put some modeling clay on the outside of the C.M. then press some BB’s or ball bearing into it; if you really want to fuck shit up!….I might warn you, if you get hit by the BB’s or whatever when it goes off, you’ll probley DIE. -Tape the C.M. to a can of starter fluid or a can of butane, for an added explosion.
9.2 Cherry Bomb:
These things kick ass! They can be pretty loud and don’t throw shrapnel, unless you bury it in rocks.
Materials:
-ping-pong ball -flash powder or other fast burning powder -long cannon fuse -J-B Weld -red nail polish(optional) -screw driver
Instructions:
Punch a hole in the ping-pong ball with the screw driver, and fill it with flash powder. Shove the fuse in the hole and fill in the hole around the fuse with J-B Weld. Let it dry. Now paint the C.B. with the nail polish, I’ve heard the nail polish gives it an extra bang.
*Note: As with a C.M., you can use a rocket igniter setup instead of a fuse.
9.3 Dry Ice Bomb:
MATERIALS
-Dry Ice -PLASTIC Bottle(s)
-Water
*You can get dry ice from an ice cream manufacturer or something.
INSTRUCTIONS
-Fill PLASTIC Bottle 2/3 With Water -Place Several Chunks Of Dry Ice Inside -Cap Tightly & Quickly
*NOTE
-Bigger The PLASTIC Bottle The Bigger The Boom -Large Mouthed Bottles Dont Explode -Submerse 1/2 Way In Pool, To Rattle Your Neighbors House
*Water Is Not Required, It Only Accelerates The Process The Less Water Used, The More Dry Ice Is Needed. *BE CAREFUL, these things will mess you up if they go of in your hand or near you!
9.4 Sparkler Bomb:
Materials:
-#7 sparlers(3 or 4 bricks worth) -elctrical tape
Instructions:
Settle in with a coke or something and start unboxing the sparklers. The number of sparklers per bundle determine the loudness of the explosion.... so keep this in mind when you make them. I have found that 12 per bundle make for a nice level of percussion... altho 48 sparklers per bundle can literally " ROCK THE HOUSE"!! The best bang for your bucks is about 32 per bundle. After 60, there is no increase in percussion and you are basically wasting sparklers ( the outer ones get destroyed before they ignite ). Unbox the number of sparklers you have decided upon, and bundle them up into a circular form. Locate the most center sparkler and pull it out of the bundle by about 2 - 2.5 inches ( if you run slow make it 3.5" ) this becomes the fuse. Once you have the bundle set, begin wrapping the bundle with electrical tape starting at the top of the bundle ( not at the fuse tip, but where the fuse enters the bundle) wrap the tape tightly around the bundle going towards the bottom of the bundle stopping at the wires. Continue wrapping the bundle back up towards the top and then back to the bottom again. This should result in 3 layers of black tape. Take a few extra inches of black tape and lightly cover the top of the bundle ( this helps in keeping the sparks from falling on the top of the bundle as you are lighting the fuse and causing a premature explosion). Once you have the black tape on the bundle, its time to wrap the unit with the strapping tape. This is done pretty much the same way as the black tape but you use 4 layers of this tape. ( this tape increases the explosion force). Once you have taped the assembly, take one of the wires extending from the bottom of the bundle and wrap it around the existing wire handles ( this helps in reducing the wire shrapnel that WILL occur if you dont wrap) next... take another wire handle and wrap it around the existing wires about 1/2 way between the bundle and end of the wires. To be really "safe" wrap a few turns of black tape around the base of the bundle where you wrapped the first wire. Most sparklers are difficult to light with a Bic lighter or such, a propane torch works very well... its faster, easier and quicker. When you plan to "use" the finished product, keep in mind that they are quite capable of extreme forces. The wires are the most prominent threat. To reduce the chance of getting "nailed", force the
handle section of the unit into the ground. DO NOT place these things inside of pipes, glass containers, or items that can shatter ( I think the word is hand grenade). Also DO NOT place near containers holding materials that can burn, explode, or cause a problem. Remember, the local authorities don’t understand people who enjoy percussive articles :) .
WARNING… These things can be REALLY loud! They are strong. And they will remove the grass from the area of detonation. A 32 bundle will clear the grass down to the mud with about a 15" diameter spot. If you are within several feet of the unit when it goes off, there is a good chance of perminent hearing loss ( aka blown eardrums) and several serious wounds. sooooo... best advice be at least 20-30ft(minimum) away from it. If it is true that the old style CherryBombs, Silver Salutes , M-80's etc. are equal to a 1/4 stick of dynamite...then these things are equal to a 3/4 stick. DO NOT HOLD THESE THINGS IN YOUR HAND!!!!!!! you will LOOSE whatever is in contact with the eplosion.
WHAT to Expect...
The fuse takes about 3-5 seconds to reach the top of the bundle, once it hits the top, a yellowish flame spurts out for about 1/2 a second. When you see this flame spurt out, the time has come :) There is a bright white flash and a fair amount of smoke produced when it ignites. After effects are neighbors saying "What the hell was that ? " , you standing there saying " HOLY sheeet !!!" The remains of the unit, if firmly planted in the ground, will be many wires spread outward along the ground and the fuse wire standing up, the local area devoid of vegitation.
9.5 Tennis ball bomb:
Ingredients:
·
Strike anywhere matches or FFFFg BP
·
A tennis ball
·
A nice sharp knife
·
Duct tape
Break a ton of matchheads off. Then cut a SMALL hole in the tennis ball. Stuff all of the matchheads into the ball, until you can't fit any more in. Then tape over it with duct tape. Make sure it is real nice and tight! Then, when you see a geek walking down the street, give it a good throw. He will have a blast!!
9.6 Mail Box Bomb:
-Two liter bottle of chlorine (must contain sodium hypochlorate) -Small amount of sugar -Small amount of water
Mix all three of these in equal amounts to fill about 1/10 of the bottle. Screw on the lid and place in a mailbox. It's hard to believe that such a small explosion will literally rip the mailbox in half and send it 20 feet into the air! Be careful doing this, though, because if you are caught, it is not up to the person whose mailbox you blew up to press charges. It is up to the city.
9.7 Cheap Smoke Bomb:
By far, the most common smoke formula is the Potassium Nitrate/Sugar formula. It produces a white-gray smoke and is both easy, inexpensive & fun to make.
The percentage of Potassium Nitrate and Sugar in this composition vary somewhat depending on who you ask, but the 60/40 mix listed below is pretty common.
A lump of this stuff the size of your thumb produced the smoke cloud on the right in under 2 seconds.
Potassium Nitrate 60 %
Sugar 40 %
Although the two ingredients can just be finely powdered and mixed together, in recent side-by-side tests, we found that melting the two together does in fact make a superior Smoke Bomb. To melt the mixture together, you'll need small metal saucepan or other heat resistant container, and an electric hot plate. An electric hot plate is preferred to an open flame heat source because it's a tad safer, and easier to prevent overheating of the mixture. The mixture must be heated SLOWLY, and over a LOW heat until it just starts to melt. Heating it too quickly, or at too high a temperature will cause it to turn black, burn & ignite making a giant mess, not to mention a fire hazard. In any case, this should all be done outside just in case you overheat it does happen to ignite. As the mixture begins to melt, it will turn brown and look exactly like Carmel Candy (see image above)... after all, you are melting Sugar ( and no, you can't eat it ).
A step-by-step procedure is outlined below....
Procedure:
Start by making a small size batch (50 grams total). Measure out 30 grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar into a small cup. For those of you who cut math class, 30 grams of Potassium Nitrate and 20 grams of Sugar is still a 60% / 40% mixture. If you make a batch larger than 50 grams, it will be very difficult to mix and heat evenly. You can always make more, so don't mix up a giant batch.
Snap a lid on the container and shake to mix the two chemicals together. Pour the mixture into a heat resistant container and set it on your hot plate.
Set the hot plate temperature to medium-high, and about every 30 seconds or so, stir the mixture well, being sure to scrape the material that may start sticking to the bottom.
Over the next several minutes, the mixture will begin to darken and clump. It will soon begin to look like brown sugar, and when it finally mixes smoothly and looks like peanut butter, it is done. If you mixture is turning BLACK, you're heating it a too high of a temperature.
Remove the container from the heat, and scoop out a lump of the sticky mass. You can either just plop some on the concrete, or if you're picky about the way your smoke bombs look, you can make small cardboard molds and press the gooey mass into them. Personally, we just lay it on the concrete.
Before the little blob cools, insert a small piece of Visco Safety Fuse.
Do this to the remainder of the material and allow them to cool and harden.
In about 5 minutes, the material will be cool and become rock hard ( beware that it will stick to the surface while cooling, but is easily removed with a little knock from a hammer. ) Set your Smoke Bomb away from any flammable materials, light the fuse and stand back.
*see the pyrotechnics section of this book for the other better smoke formulas.
9.8 Calcium Carbide Bomb:
This is EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. Exercise extreme caution.... Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces of this stuff (it looks like gravel) and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate, which is similar to the gas used in cutting torches. Eventually the glass with explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball!
9.9 Firebombs (Molotov cocktail):
Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.
9.10 Generic Bomb:
-Acquire a glass container. -Put in a few drops of gasoline. -Cap the top. -Now turn the container around to coat the inner surfaces and then evaporates. -Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (Get this stuff from a snake bite kit) -The bomb is detonated by throwing against a solid object.
After throwing this thing, run like hell. This thing packs about « stick of dynamite.
9.11 Picallo bomb(bottle salute):
These can be really cool, depending on how you make them. They don’t usually do much damage like other bombs, but they’re pretty easy to make; but I would not be near it when it goes off.
Materials:
-plastic soda bottle with a screw-on cap (the bigger bottle, the louder the boom!)
-box of Picallo Peat fireworks -nail -knive or razor blade
Instructions:
Open up a picallo peat using a razor blade, save the fuse. Pour the powder in the soda bottle, make sure the bottle is dry! Poke a hole in the cap with the nail and shove the fuse in the cap a little less than half way. Screw the cap on the bottle real tight. Stand the bottle up somewhere. Light the fuse and back up.
*Note: The more powder and the bigger the bottle you use, the bigger the boom. Other powder can be used instead of the insides of picallo peats; any fast burning powder will work.
9.12 THERMITE BOMB:
Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold. The mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week. DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN ! The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite. Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion. The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag around. Use this carefully !-Thermite Burns at over 5000 deg. F.
9.13 soda bottle bomb:
Take a 2 liter plastic soda bottle and fill about a quarter of it with Muramic Acid (pool acid). After this you have to work fast! Drop some aluminum foil strips into the bottle and put the cap on. Shake it up a bit and throw it. It will create a gas and explode. The fumes are very hazardous, so make sure you wont harm anyone unless you intend to.
10.0 pyrotechnics:
Why buy all those wussy fireworks on the 4th, and waste money when you can make your own that are way better?! Before making any pyrotechnic devise, refer to the safety section of this book...and read the following:
[*Warning detail taken from http://www.unitednuclear.com/.]
PAY ATTENTION... OR DIE!
First of all... EVERYTHING IS DANGEROUS!
Even if you're just boiling some water, sure as hell, some spaz out there is going to bump into the pot and pour the boiling hot water all over themselves, get third degree burns, and die. (and of course blame it on the person who told them to boil the water) Now add some high energy chemicals, like Oxidizers and Metal Powders, not to mention some Radioactive material, and you've got a real recipe
for disaster. Any chemistry experiment, no matter how simple it may seem, has the potential of being dangerous... even if you follow directions exactly as stated. The firework formulas always require special attention, for if any pyrotechnic formula ignites unexpectedly, it generally can't be extinguished fast enough. Pyrotechnic (firework) compositions have their own oxygen supply, so they can't be smothered once ignited. Although large quantities of water will extinguish most slower burning compositions, there are even some where the addition of water makes them burn even faster. Some formulas like Flash Powder burn so fast, it's almost instantaneous. If a quantity of it ignites while you're mixing it, before you can blink your eye, move your hand, or turn your face, the skin will have already been burnt off your body. Pyrotechnic mixtures are sensitive to shock... don't bang on them. They are sensitive to friction... don't grind them... and of course if a spark or flame touches them, they'll ignite or explode too. USE COMMON SENSE! Anything that burns has the potential of exploding, so never put a pyrotechnic composition in a glass or metal container. To do so is asking for death. If you're going to mix any of these formulas, make sure you know what you're doing and have a large bucket of water nearby.
- Avoid using large quantities - Only ignite the mixture outdoors -Follow any special warnings given Only ignite pyrotechnic mixtures or completed fireworks with a fuse, never just throw a match in the mix or on the firework.
10.1 Pyrotechnic compositions and formulas:
10.1-1 Smoke formulas:
Most homemade smoke bombs usually employ some type of base powder, such as black powder or pyrodex, to support combustion. The base material will burn well, and provide heat to cause the other materials in the device to burn, but not completely or cleanly. Table sugar, mixed with sulfur and a base material, produces large amounts of smoke. Sawdust, especially if it has a small amount of oil in it, and a base powder works well also. Other excellent smoke ingredients are small pieces of rubber, finely ground plastics, and many chemical mixtures. The material in road flares can be mixed with sugar and sulfur and a base powder produces much smoke. Most of the fuel oxidizer mixtures, if the ratio is not
correct, produce much smoke when added to a base powder. The list of possibilities goes on and on. The trick to a successful smoke bomb also lies in the container used. A plastic cylinder works well, and contributes to the smoke produced. The hole in the smoke bomb where the fuse enters must be large enough to allow the material to burn without causing an explosion. This is another plus for plastic containers, since they will melt and burn when the smoke material ignites, producing an opening large enough to prevent an explosion.
White smoke:
Comments: Preparation: Potassium nitrate.................................4 Charcoal..........................................5 Sulfur............................................10 Wood dust.........................................3
-or-
comments: This is the easiest smoke formula to make. Preparation: Melt the two chemicals together on LOW heat and stir it till it turns brown and smooth. sugar..............................................2 potassium nitrate..................................3
Red smoke:
Comments:
Preparation: Potassium chlorate................................15 para-nitroaniline red.............................65 Lactose...........................................20
Green smoke:
Comments: Preparation: Synthetic indigo..................................26 Auramine (yellow).................................15 Potassium chlorate................................35 Lactose...........................................26
Smoke composition #1:
Comments: Different sources mention differnt compositions. The most often mentioned one is given here. Preparation: The mixture is most succesfull when prepared by melting the sugar and potassium nitrate together on low heat, but this requires good stirring, and there is a risk of accidential ignition. The molten mixture can be poured in cardboard containers and a fuse insterted while the mixture solidifies. Potassium nitrate.................................50 Sugar.............................................50
Smoke composition #2:
Comments: The mixture is difficult to ignite. Hexachloroethane is poisonous, and can be replaced by 72 parts PVC. This, however, makes the mixture yet harder to ignite. The zinc oxide can be replaced by titanium dioxide (2 parts ZnO replaced by 1 part TiO2). The smoke is slightly irritating and not suitable for indoor use. Preparation: Zinc oxide........................................45 Hexachloroethane..................................45 Aluminum..........................................10
Smoke composition #3:
Comments: Preparation: Zinc powder.......................................35 CCl4..............................................41 Zinc oxide........................................20 Diatomeous earth..................................5
Smoke composition #4:
Comments: Preparation: Zinc powder.......................................25 CCl4..............................................50 Zinc oxide........................................20 Diatomeous earth..................................5
Smoke composition #5:
Comments: Heat of reaction: 2.579 kJ/g, Gas volume: 62 cm3/g, ignition temperature: 475°C, impact sensitivity test: 15% of TNT Preparation: Zinc..............................................69 Potassium perchlorate.............................19 Hexachlorobenzene.................................12
10.1-2 Colored Flame formaulas and torches:
Colored flames can often be used as a signaling device for soldiers. by putting a ball of colored flame material in a rocket; the rocket, when the ejection charge fires, will send out a burning colored ball. The materials that produce the different colors of flames appear below.
COLOR _____
MATERIAL ________
USED IN _______
_______________________________________________________________________________ red
strontium salts
road flares, red sparklers
(strontium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________
green
barium salts
green sparklers
(barium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ yellow
sodium salts
gold sparklers
(sodium nitrate) _______________________________________________________________________________ blue
powdered copper
blue sparklers,
old pennies _______________________________________________________________________________ white
powdered magnesium or aluminum
firestarters,
aluminum foil
_______________________________________________________________________________ purple
potassium permanganate
purple fountains,
treating sewage _______________________________________________________________________________
Fire dust:
Comments: The composition spreads a large amount of long lived orange fire dust particles. The lifetime of those particles depends mainly on the consistency and type of charcoal. Preparation: The components must be intimately mixed. This can be done by dissolving the potassium nitrate in a minimum amount of boiling water, adding the charcoal and sulfur and precipitating the potassium nitrate in the form of fine particles by adding a large amount of isopropyl alcohol and cooling the solution as fast as possible to 0°C, followed by filtering and drying.
Potassium nitrate.................................58 Charcoal..........................................35
Sulfur............................................7
Blue fire composition #2:
Comments: Preparation:
Copper ammonium chloride..........................5 Potassium perchlorate.............................24 Stearin...........................................2 Asphaltum.........................................1
Red fire composition #1:
Comments: Burns at a moderate rate with a nice deep red color. Preparation:
Strontium nitrate.................................66 Potassium chlorate................................25 Powdered shellac..................................9
Red fire composition #2:
Comments: Preparation:
Strontium carbonate...............................16 Potassium chlorate................................72 Powdered shellac..................................12
Green fire composition #1:
Comments: Dangerous mixture, since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate. Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................7 Potassium chlorate................................3 Sulfur............................................2
Green fire composition #3:
Comments: Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................9 Orange shellac powder.............................1
White fire composition #1:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................24 Sulfur............................................7 Charcoal..........................................1
White fire composition #2:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................7 Sulfur............................................2 Powdered antimony.................................1
Yellow fire composition #1: Comments: Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................4 Sulfur............................................1 Charcoal..........................................2 Sodium chloride...................................3
Yellow fire composition #2: Comments: Dangerous mixture, since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate. Preparation:
Potassium chlorate................................8 Sulfur............................................2 Sodium carbonate..................................3
Purple fire composition:
Comments: Dangerous mixture, since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate. Preparation:
Copper sulfate....................................1 Potassium chlorate................................1 Sulfur............................................1
Magnesium flare: Comments: Heat of reaction: 6.134 kJ/g, Gas volume: 74 cm3/g, ignition temperature: 640°C, impact sensitivity test: 19% of TNT Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................38
Magnesium.........................................50 Laminac...........................................5
Green torch #1:
Comments: Note that calomel is a very toxic compound. Preparation:
Barium chlorate...................................5 Barium nitrate....................................4 Shellac...........................................1 Calomel...........................................2
Green torch #2:
Comments: Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................5 potassium perchlorate.............................6 K.D. Gum..........................................2 Sulfur............................................3
Blue torch #1:
Comments: Note that calomel and Paris green are both very toxic compounds. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................5 Copper acetoarsenite (Paris Green)................2 Dextrin...........................................1 Calomel...........................................1
Blue torch #2:
Comments: This mixture is incompatible with nitrates and chlorates due to the presence of a copperammonium compound. Preparation: 'Sugar of milk' is lactose.
Potassium perchlorate.............................24 Copper ammonium sulfate...........................6 Sugar of milk.....................................2 Sulfur............................................9
Purple torch #1:
Comments: Note that calomel is very toxic. Preparation:
Strontium nitrate.................................7 Potassium perchlorate.............................9
Copper(II)oxide...................................6 Calomel...........................................3 Sulfur............................................5
Aluminum torch:
Comments: Preparation:
potassium perchlorate.............................13 Fine aluminum powder..............................6 Flake Aluminum....................................5 Dextrin or lycopodium.............................1
Red and aluminum torch:
Comments: The composition is a modification of the 'Aluminum torch'. Suggested dimensions for the torch are 2.22cm diameter and 45cm length. Preparation: Before ramming, this formula should be moistened with a solution of 1 part shellac in 16 parts alcohol and 1 part of this solution used to every 36 parts of composition. As this mixture is somewhat difficult to ignite it is necessary to scoop out a little from the top of the torch and replace it with a starting fire composition. Meal powder can be used for that purpose.
Strontium nitrate.................................13 Sulfur............................................3 Mixed Aluminum....................................3
Extra bright torch:
Comments: According to the original text: "An aluminum torch of heretofore unheard of brilliance and giving an illumination, in the 2.54cm size, of what is said to be 100000 candlepower". Testing with paint grade aluminum revealed that it burns very bright indeed at a steady slow burnrate and with little residue. It is easily pressed in tubes. Preparation: Rub the Vaseline into the barium nitrate. Mix the sulfur and the aluminum separately. Then mix it with the barium nitrate/vaseline mixture. A starting fire mixture is required for ignition. The 'starting fire #1' composition can be used for that purpose.
Barium nitrate....................................38 Mixed Aluminum....................................9 Sulfur............................................2 Vaseline..........................................1
10.1-3 USEFUL PYROCHEMISTRY:
In general, it is possible to make many chemicals from just a few basic ones. A list of useful chemical reactions is presented. It assumes knowledge of general chemistry; any individual who does not understand the following reactions would merely have to read the first five chapters of a high school chemistry book.
1. potassium perchlorate from perchloric acid and potassium hydroxide K(OH)
+ 4
HClO 4
----> 2
KClO
+ HO
2. potassium nitrate from nitric acid and potassium hydroxide "
+
HNO 3
---->
KNO
+
"
3
3. ammonium perchlorate from perchloric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH 3
+
HClO
4
---->
NH ClO
+
"
3 4
4. ammonium nitrate from nitric acid and ammonium hydroxide NH OH 3
+ 3
HNO
---->
NH NO
+
"
3 3
5. powdered aluminum from acids, aluminum foil, and magnesium
A.
aluminum foil + 6HCl ----> 2AlCl + 3H 3
B.
2
2AlCl (aq) + 3Mg ----> 3MgCl (aq) + 2Al 3
2
The Al will be a very fine silvery powder at the bottom of the container which must be filtered and dried. This same method works with nitric and sulfuric acids, but these acids are too valuable in the production of high explosives to use for such a purpose, unless they are available in great excess.
10.1-4 Rocket propellants:
Rocket propellant #1 ('Candy Propellant'):
Comments: This propellant is often refferred to as "candy propellant" or “white propellant” Preparation: It is best prepared by melting the potassium nitrate and sugar together, but this is a dangerous operation and could result in accidential ignition during preperation. Dry mixing is possible and much safer but produces lower quality propellant.
Potassium nitrate.................................74.5 Sugar.............................................25.5
Rocket propellant #2:
Comments: The propellant has a burn rate of 0.0385 inch/sec at 100psi and a burn rate of 0.04 inch/sec at 300psi. Burn temperature is approx. 1800K. and ISP=180. Preparation:
Ammonium nitrate..................................85-90% Elastomeric binder (HTPB or other urethane plastic).....?
Rocket propellant #3:
Comments: Stinks like ammonia when mixed, and hardens faster than normal epoxy curing time. Suggestions for rocket dimensions: 1" rocket tube, 3" fuel length, Durhanm’s water putty nozzle 3/8" thick, and 5/16" diameter. Core in center of fuel about 3/8" diameter through the length. Preparation:
Ammonium perchlorate, 200 micron..................80 Resin (Epon 815 epoxy & curing agent U)...........20 Copper chromite...................................+1%
Rocket propellant #4:
Comments: Mixture is somewhat hygroscopic. Low impulse propellant. Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................63 Sugar.............................................27 Sulfur............................................10
Rocket propellant #6 (KNO3 propellant):
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Chris Beauregard
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................72 Carbon............................................24
Sulfur............................................4
Rocket propellant #7 (NaNO3 propellant):
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Chris Beauregard
Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................69 Carbon............................................27 Sulfur............................................4
Rocket propellant #7 (Zinc/Sulfur):
Source: rec.pyrotechnics Comments: Burns very fast, producing lots of smoke. It is not a very effective propellant due to its low energy density. Preparation: Zinc..............................................67.1% Sulfur............................................32.9%
Space Shuttle Boosters propellant:
Source: NASA homepage
Comments:
Preparation:
Aluminum powder...................................16 Ammonium perchlorate..............................69.9 Fe2O3 catalyst....................................0.07 Rubber based binder of polybutadiëne acrylic acidacrylonitrile.....12.04 Epoxy curing agent................................1.96
ESTES C-class rocket engine propellant:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, Composition from 1994 US Dept. of Labour Material Safety Data Sheet. Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................71.79 Sulfur............................................13.45 Charcoal..........................................13.81 Dextrin...........................................0.95
Blue strobe rocket propellant:
Source: Greg Gallacci
Ammonium perchlorate..............................63 Silicone II.......................................22 Copper(II)oxide...................................10 PVC...............................................5
10.1-5 colored star compositions:
Red star #1:
Comments: The perchlorate can be substituted by chlorate without changing the color. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................66 Red gum...........................................13 Lampblack.........................................2 Strontium carbonate...............................12 Polyvinyl chloride................................2 Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch.....................5
Red star #2:
Comments: Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, add the other ingredients and proceed as usual. The stars take unexpectedly long to dry. They can be dried in the sun or in a vacuum. Smaller stars dry faster.
Potassium chlorate................................20 Strontium nitrate.................................60 Shellac...........................................20
Red star #3:
Comments: Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol, and add the other ingredients.
Potassium chlorate................................65 Strontium carbonate...............................15 Shellac...........................................20
Green star #1:
Comments: Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................28.3 Potassium Perchlorate.............................47.2
Parlon............................................4.7 Red Gum...........................................14.2 Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch.....................5.6
Green star #2:
Comments: A simple but nice (somewhat yellowish) green. Preparation: Dissolve shellac in boiling ethanol.
barium nitrate....................................7 potassium chlorate................................7 shellac...........................................2
Blue star #1:
Comments: LNiksch :"These stars burn much faster and more blue than any mix containing copper carbonate I have tried" Preparation: Dampen with alcohol/water 70/30 to make cut or pumped stars.
Potassium perchlorate.............................66.5 Red gum...........................................9.9 Cupric oxide......................................13.4 Parlon............................................5.4 Soluble Glutinous Rice Starch or Dextrin .........5.6 or 4.8
Blue star #2:
Comments: Preparation: Add 25 volume parts of water to dextrin and mix in the other ingredients. Use more water if necessary.
Ammonium perchlorate..............................60 Sulfur............................................17 Copper(II)oxide...................................20 Dextrin (binder)..................................3 Red gum or Shellac................................6
Purple star #1:
Comments: Dangerous mixture since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate. Preparation: Bind with dextrin in water. The ingredients must be very pure.
Potassium chlorate................................36 Strontium sulfate.................................10 Copper sulfate....................................5 Lead chloride.....................................2 Charcoal..........................................2 Sulfur............................................12
Purple star #2:
Comments: Dangerous mixture since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate.
Preparation: Bind with dextrin in water. The ingredients must be very pure.
Potassium chlorate................................38 Strontium carbonate...............................18 Copper chloride...................................4 Lead chloride.....................................2 Sulfur............................................14
Yellow star #1:
Comments: Preparation: Mix dextrin with 4 volume parts of water and mix in the other ingredients.
Potassium chlorate................................6 Sodium hydrogen carbonate.........................2 Dextrin...........................................2
Yellow star #2:
Comments: Preparation: Bind with shellac in ethanol or dextrin in water.
Potassium chlorate................................8 Sodium oxalate....................................3 Lampblack.........................................2
Orange star #1:
Comments: Dangerous mixture since it contains both sulfur and a chlorate. Preparation: Bind with alcohol.
Strontium nitrate.................................36 Sodium oxalate....................................8 Potassium chlorate................................5 Shellac powder....................................5 Sulfur............................................3
Orange/Red star:
Comments: Sculpy is a PVC based modelling clay - "FIMO" will also work, but is more difficult to mix. Preparation:
Strontium nitrate.................................35 Potassium perchlorate.............................40 "Sculpy"..........................................22 Fe2O3.............................................2
Salmon color star:
Comments: Sculpy is a PVC based modelling clay. The result is a salmon-berry (reddish-orange) color. Preparation: Warm the sculpy slightly, to make it more mixable and mix it with the ammonium perchlorate without using solvents. Screen it several times and make pressed stars. The stars can be baked in an oven at 135°C for 20 minutes, which will result in much harder, more ignitable, more intensely colored stars. Heating the stars is not recommended though, since it could cause the stars to ignite.
Ammonium perchlorate..............................75 "Super Sculpy"....................................25
White star #1:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium Nitrate.................................58 Aluminum..........................................40 Dextrin...........................................2
White star #2:
Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium Perchlorate.............................40 Magnesium.........................................32 Sulfur............................................16 Charcoal..........................................12
White star #3:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium Perchlorate.............................2 Aluminum..........................................1
Brilliant white star:
Comments: Bind with dextrin in water Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................4 Aluminum dust.....................................4 Dextrin...........................................1
Veline's green star:
This set of compositions was invented by Robert Veline and is used in Kosankie's 'Chemistry of Fireworks (Chemistry of color) class'. Comments: These compositions are part of a matched set invented by Robert Veline. The compositions mix compatibly to produce a wide range of other colors. Examples are given below. The wood meal in the prime (see miscellaneous compositions) makes the stars a little 'fuzzy', making the stars much more easy to ignite. Without the wood meal prime the stars are often blown blind. Preparation: Summary of Robert Veline's own comments: "Potassium perchlorate is a fine powder. Parlon is Hercules brand or Superchlon brand from Ishihara co. ltd. Red gum is a fine powder. Copper(II)oxide may be substituted by copper carbonate without much change in performance. Calcium carbonate is 200 mesh, 'Whiting'. More pure forms slow the burn rate and degrade the color." Potassium perchlorate.............................30 Barium nitrate....................................24 Barium carbonate..................................15 Parlon............................................15 Red gum...........................................5 Magnalium (50/50), 200 mesh.......................11 Dextrin...........................................+4
Veline's blue star:
Comments: These compositions are part of a matched set invented by Robert Veline. The compositions mix compatibly to produce a wide range of other colors. Examples are given below. The wood meal in the prime (see miscellaneous compositions) makes the stars a little 'fuzzy', making the stars much more easy to ignite. Without the wood meal prime the stars are often blown blind.
Preparation: Summary of Robert Veline's own comments: "Potassium perchlorate is a fine powder. Parlon is Hercules brand or Superchlon brand from Ishihara co. ltd. Red gum is a fine powder.
Copper(II)oxide may be substituted by copper carbonate without much change in performance. Calcium carbonate is 200 mesh, 'Whiting'. More pure forms slow the burn rate and degrade the color." Potassium perchlorate.............................55 Copper(II)oxide...................................15 Parlon............................................15 Red gum...........................................9 Magnalium (50/50), 200 mesh.......................6 Dextrin...........................................+4
Veline's mixed colors:
Comments: These are a few examples of the colors that can be obtained by mixing a few of Robert Veline's set of star compositions.
Preparation:
Yellow............................................55 green, 45 orange Chartreuse........................................80 green, 20 orange Aqua..............................................80 green,20 blue Turquoise.........................................55 green, 45 blue Magenta...........................................50 red, 50 blue Maroon............................................85 red, 15 blue Peach.............................................60 orange, 25 red, 15 blue Purple............................................5 orange, 15 red, 80 blue
Electric star #4:
Source: "The Pyroguide" (a document found on internet) Comments: Preparation: Bind with shellac in alcohol. Potassium perchlorate.............................4 Aluminum, medium..................................2 Dextrin...........................................1
Firefly #1:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive. Posted by Eric Eisack. Comments:
Preparation: Aluminum is large flake. It was sieved through a windowscreen. This gives about 30 mesh powder.
Potassium nitrate.................................50 Charcoal,air float................................29 Charcoal, 80 mesh.................................10.5 Sulfur............................................6 Aluminum (large flake)............................4.5 Dextrin or CMC....................................+5 or +1
Firefly #2:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive. Posted by Dan Bucciano. Comments: Can also be used as rocket propellant: Mix the chemicals, dampen, and granulate through a 20 mesh screen and dry. Use +3% by weight as a tail effect. Once you have passed the top core of the rocket by 1/2 inch, you may ram 100% firefly formula the rest of the way. You will end up with a beautiful long trailing tail of firefly.
Preparation:
Potassium Nitrate.................................47 Air Float Charcoal................................33 Antimony tri-sulfide..............................5.8 Aluminum (400 mesh,12 micron, spherical)..........4.2 Sulfur............................................4.7 Dextrin...........................................5.2
Firefly #3:
Source: PML Digest 391, post by L.Niksch
Preparation: Ball mill potassium nitrate, Air Float charcoal, sulfur and Dextrin together for 1 hour. Then add the 36 mesh Charcoal and firefly aluminum and mix with a spoon. Add water to make a dough mix and cut with a knife into 3/8" cut stars. Separate stars and dry for 3-4 days. The effect is a long tiger tail going up and firefly sparkles coming down. Larger stars take longer to dry, and a damp star produces very little firefly effect.
Potassium nitrate.................................49 Charcoal, air float...............................29
Charcoal, 36 Mesh.................................11 Sulfur............................................9 Dextrin...........................................10 Aluminum, firefly.................................5
Glitter star:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics archive, post by Tommy Hakomaki
Preparation: Wet with ethanol/water (70/30)
Potassium nitrate.................................55 Aluminum 200-400 mesh.............................5 Dextrin...........................................4 Antimony(III)sulfide..............................16 Sulfur............................................10 Lampblack.........................................10
White comet #1:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics Comments: Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................96 Fine charcoal.....................................44 Sulfur............................................15 Dextrin...........................................10
White comet #2:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics Comments: Preparation: Potassium nitrate.................................40 Fine charcoal.....................................24 Sulfur............................................8 Dextrin...........................................9
Matrix comet composition #1:
Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke Stanbridge
Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low amounts, has a very slow drying
profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to dry properly depending on the circumstances.
Potasium chlorate, passing 200 mesh...............50 Barium benzoate, passing 100 mesh.................23 Barium carbonate, passing 200 mesh................10 Exfoliated mica, pass 80 mesh, hold 120 mesh......10 Bentonite clay - wyoming, passing 200 mesh........6 Guar gum fine WW250F, passing 200 mesh............1
Matrix comet composition #2:
Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke Stanbridge
Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low amounts, has a very slow drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to dry properly depending on the circumstances.
Potasium perchlorate, passing 100 mesh............50 Zirconium silicate, passing 325 mesh..............30 Polykarbenite-3 - Armex, passing 200 mesh.........10
Barium carbonate, passing 200 mesh................9 Guar gum fine WW250F, passing 200 mesh............1
'Dragon eggs' star (Crackling star):
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Composition from "The best of AFN III"[12], page 121 Comments: Sometimes, Bi2O3 is used instead of Pb3O4. The composition is extremely sensitive, both to friction and impact. It is also quite poisonous and explosive. Gloves and an air mask must be worn at all times when handling this mixture since the mixture contains the very toxic Pb3O4.
Preparation: Add lacquer untill the thickness is like wood putty. Pass the mix through a screen and dry it to make 1mm squares. These will explode with a sharp crack shortly after lighting and can be used as star cores. Pb3O4.............................................81.8
Magnalium (50/50, 100-200 Mesh)...................9.1 Copper(II)oxide...................................9.1 Nitrocellulose lacquer binder.....................10% by volume
Blue star with charcoal tail:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by sweden
Preparation: Add isopropyl alcohol for binding. Cut, round and pumped stars can be made with this composition, but a typical KClO4/Red gum/Charcoal/dextrin prime will be necessary. A final layer of
sodium nitrate/sulfur/Charcoal (85/5/10), moistened with NC/acetone lacker (w. about 3% NC) can be added. This adds yellowish sparks. Mealpowder can be used instead if the yellow sparks are not desired.
Ammonium perchlorate..............................70 Basic copper carbonate............................10 Red Gum...........................................10 Charcoal..........................................10 Dextrin...........................................+5
Electric purple star:
Source: Quoted in an AFN Yearbook from David Bleser on "Protecting Electric Puple Decomposition" Comments: When very fine powdered ammonium perchlorate was used in a an attempt to try to increase the burning rate of stars an ammoniacal smell and an increase in temperature was noticed. The batch of stars was safely disposed of. By adding 5% potassium dichromate and 1% boric acid the reactions were prevented.
Preparation:
Ammonium perchlorate..............................68 Copper benzoate...................................8 Strontium carbonate...............................12 Magnalium (200-400 Mesh)..........................5 Hexamine..........................................7 Dextrin...........................................+5
Brilliant core:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 219. Comments: This composition can be used for the cores of round stars. It gives a strong flash of light. The cores burn quickly and are self propelled when they are unevenly ignited. To prevent that, these cores should be coated with 'Brilliant core prime' (see miscellaneous compositions) untill they are round.
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................66 Aluminum, fine flake..............................27 Boric acid........................................1 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................6
Silver star core:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 220. Comments: This composition can be used for the cores of round stars. It burns less quickly than the ‘brilliant core’, and produces a silver flame.
Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................56 Rosin (BL combustion agent).......................5 Aluminum (fine flake).............................32 Lampblack.........................................2 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................5
Silver wave:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 220. Comments: This composition produces a silver fire dust. A large silver fire dust flame of short duration is obtained. When the ratio perchlorate to aluminum is changed to 35/65 a small flame with yellowish fire dust of long duration is obtained.
Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................50 Aluminum (somewhat coarse flake)..................50 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+5%
Golden wave #1:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221 Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................37 Aluminum (somewhat coarse flake)..................47 Antimony trisulfide...............................9 Boric acid........................................1 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................6
Golden wave #2:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221. Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................37 Aluminum (somewhat coarse flake)..................47 Sulfur............................................9 Boric acid........................................1 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................6
Matrix comet composition #1:
Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke Stanbridge
Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low amounts, has a very slow drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to dry properly depending on the circumstances.
Potasium chlorate, passing 200 mesh...............50 Barium benzoate, passing 100 mesh.................23 Barium carbonate, passing 200 mesh................10 Exfoliated mica, pass 80 mesh, hold 120 mesh......10 Bentonite clay - wyoming, passing 200 mesh........6 Guar gum fine WW250F, passing 200 mesh............1
Matrix comet composition #2:
Source: PML 8 oct 96, post by Myke Stanbridge
Preparation: Exfoliated mica is also called Vermiculite. It is usually obtained from 'mineral products' suppliers in graded sizes from around 5 to 10 millimetres. It requires comminution in a coffee mill, followed by screening. The guar binder, although very effective in low amounts, has a very slow drying profile and a tendency to produce a 'skin' that prevents 'radiant heat source' drying. To dry the comets uniformly requires a fan circulated 'dry air' drier. Large 3" comets might take two months to dry properly depending on the circumstances.
Potasium perchlorate, passing 100 mesh............50 Zirconium silicate, passing 325 mesh..............30 Polykarbenite-3 - Armex, passing 200 mesh.........10 Barium carbonate, passing 200 mesh................9 Guar gum fine WW250F, passing 200 mesh............1
10.1-6 smoke star compositions:
Red smoke star:
Source: Shimizu[1], page 226. Listed as "Smoke dye compositions for stars, red" Comments:
Preparation: Wheat flour can be substituted for milk sugar. Produce as 10mm cut stars, and prime with meal powder.
Potassium chlorate................................28 Milk sugar........................................20 Rhodamine B conc..................................30 Oil orange........................................22 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+3%
Yellow smoke star #1:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 229. Listed as "Yellow dragon" Comments: The smoke is more dense than that of dye smoke, but it looks dark yellow against the light of the sun. The smoke is poisonous.
Preparation: Make pressed stars.
Potassium nitrate.................................25 Sulfur............................................16 Realgar...........................................59
Yellow smoke star #2:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 228. Listed as "White willow" Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................48.5 Sulfur............................................48.5 Realgar...........................................3 Charcoal (or hemp coal)...........................+2% Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+6%
Green smoke star:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 226. Listed as "Smoke dye compositions for stars, green" Comments:
Preparation: Wheat flour can be substituted for milk sugar. Produce as 10mm cut stars, and prime with meal powder.
Potassium chlorate................................33 Milk sugar........................................27 Oil yellow (Butter yellow)........................20 Phthalocyanine blue...............................20 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+3%
Blue smoke star:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 226. Listed as "Smoke dye compositions for stars, blue" Comments:
Preparation: Wheat flour can be substituted for milk sugar. Produce as 10mm cut stars, and prime with meal powder.
Potassium chlorate................................33 Milk sugar........................................27 Phthalocyanine blue...............................40 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+3%
Violet smoke star:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 226. Listed as "Smoke dye compositions for stars, Violet" Comments:
Preparation: Wheat flour can be substituted for milk sugar. Produce as 10mm cut stars, and prime with meal powder.
Potassium chlorate................................29 Milk sugar........................................25 Rhodamine B conc..................................13 Oil orange........................................16 Phthalocyanine blue...............................17 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+3%
White smoke star #1:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 228. Listed as "White chrysanthemum I" Comments:
Preparation: Potassium nitrate.................................53 Sulfur............................................7 Charcoal (or hemp coal)...........................32 Lampblack.........................................8 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................+6%
White smoke star #2:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 228. Listed as "White chrysanthemum II" Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................66 Realgar...........................................13 Charcoal (or hemp coal)...........................5 Lampblack.........................................5 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................11
10.1-7 flash charges:
Flash #1:
Comments: The sulfur can be replaced by antimony trisulfide and the sound of a salute made with this composition will change very little. Preparation:
potassium perchlorate.............................50 Aluminum..........................................23 sulfur............................................27
Flash #2:
Comments: Preparation:
potassium perchlorate.............................70 Aluminum (dark pyro)..............................30
Flash #3:
Comments: Larger percentage of aluminum results in a stronger flash. This composition is slightly less sensitive than the usual perchlorate mixtures which also contain sulfur. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................65...70% Aluminum powder...................................rest (up to 100%)
Flash #4:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................3 Aluminum, 400 mesh................................3 Sulfur............................................1
Flash #5:
Comments: This is a relatively safe flash composition. Burns with a brilliant white light in an open tube, or when unconfined. When well confined, it produces a loud, low pitched report and a short but intense flash. Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................50 Sulfur............................................30 Aluminum..........................................20
Flash #6:
Comments: Can be ignited by a fairly low temperature flame, and produces a greenish flash when magnesium is used. Burns very fast, and produces a loud report even in an open container. Preparation:
Magnesium or Aluminum.............................1 Barium sulfate....................................1
Flash #7:
Comments: Relatively insensitive. Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................4 Alumium (fine mesh)...............................2 sulfur............................................1
Smokeless flash powder:
Comments: Preparation:
Zirconium.........................................28 Zirconium hydride.................................7 Magnesium.........................................7 Barium nitrate....................................30 Barium oxyde......................................25 Rice starch.......................................5
Photoflash:
Comments: Heat of reaction: 8.989 kJ/g, Gas volume: 15 cm3/g, ignition temperature: 700°C, impact sensitivity test: 26% of TNT. half a pound of this flash delivers 120 million candlepowder. It is used in the M120A1 and M112A1 flare cartdriges. Preparation:
Aluminum (20 micron; atomized)....................40 Potassium perchlorate (24 micron).................30 Barium nitrate (150 micron).......................30
Purple Flash:
Comments: Preparation:
Magnesium.........................................10 Potassium perchlorate.............................10 Cupric oxide......................................3 Strontium nitrate.................................3 PVC...............................................1
Yellow flash:
Comments: Preparation:
Magnesium.........................................1 Sodium nitrate....................................6
Green flash:
Comments: Preparation:
potassium perchlorate.............................6 barium nitrate....................................3 Aluminum powder...................................5
10.1-8 burst charges:
H3 Bursting charge:
Comments: This energetic burst charge is used for small diameter shells (2...3 inch), since it makes a large and symmetrical burst possible. Besides the composition below, a ratio of chlorate to hemp coal of 10:3 is also popular. The sensitivity of this mixture to shock and friction is unexpectedly low, as long as the composition does not come into contact with sulfur or sulfur compounds. Preparation:
Potassium chlorate................................75 Hemp coal (or Paulownia coal).....................25 Glutinous rice starch.............................+2%
Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1:
Comments: This energetic burst charge can be used for small shells, but is unsuitable for the smallest diameters (2...3 inch). It is much safer to handle than the H3 bursting charge since it contains no chlorates. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................70 Hemp coal (or Paulownia coal).....................18 Sulfur............................................12 Glutinous rice starch.............................+2%
Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #2:
Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as ‘burst charge No. 5’. This compositions sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of the ‘Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1’. This burst charge is often used in shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch). Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................70 Hemp coal (or Paulownia coal).....................30 Glutinous rice starch.............................+2%
Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #3:
Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as ‘burst charge No. 44’. The potassium bichromate catalyses the decomposition of the potassium perchlorate. This composition’s sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black powder. The explosive force of this composition is lower than that of the ‘Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1’. This burst charge is often used in shells of middle and large diameter (6...10 inch). Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................70
Hemp coal (or Paulownia coal).....................30 Potassium bichromate..............................5 Glutinous rice starch.............................+2%
Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #4:
Comments: Shimizu lists this composition as ‘burst charge No. 46’. The potassium bichromate catalyses the decomposition of the potassium perchlorate. This composition’s sensitivity is quite low, although higher than that of black powder. The explosive force of this composition is higher than that of the ‘Potassium perchlorate bursting charge #1’, especially when the particle size of the carbon is small. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................70 Hemp coal (or Paulownia coal).....................30 Lampblack.........................................25 Potassium bichromate..............................+5% Glutinous rice starch.............................+2%
10.1-9 whistle mixtures:
Whistle mix #1:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................72.5 Sodium salicylate.................................27.5
Whistle mix #2:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................30 Potassium dinotrophenate..........................70
Whistle mix #3:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................70 Sodium benzoate...................................30
Whistle mix #4:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium chlorate................................40 Sodium chlorate...................................10 Potassium nitrate.................................30 Sodium salicylate.................................10 Paraffin oil......................................10 Ferric oxide......................................+0.2
Whistle mix #5:
Comments: This mixture is quite sensitive to friction and shock. Preparation:
Potassium chlorate................................75 Gallic acid.......................................25
10.1-10 priming compositions:
Priming composition #1:
Comments:
Preparation:
Barium nitrate....................................4 Potassium nitrate.................................3 Sulfur............................................1 Shellac...........................................1
Priming composition #2:
Comments: Preparation:
Potassium permanganate............................54 Powdered iron.....................................47
Priming composition #3:
Comments: Suitable for priming most stars. Chlorate stars or stars containing ammonium compounds should never be primed with this composition. It can be stored in small plastic containers. Preparation:
Potassium nitrate, fine, sieved...................75 Sulfur, fine (preferably flour)...................10 Charcoal, fine, sieved............................15
Priming composition #4:
Comments: Suitable for priming stars. Aluminum and manganese dioxide aid in ignition, but are not necessary. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................80 Charcoal, fine....................................15 Red gum...........................................4 Manganese dioxide (optional) .....................9 Aluminum, (fine flake or pyro grade; optional)....4 Dextrin...........................................2
Priming composition #5:
Comments: This type of prime helps reduce the friction and impact sensitivity of chlorate stars which is especially important when shells fire from the mortar and experience set-back or "kick" from lift acceleration. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................68 Charcoal, air float...............................20 Silicon or Aluminum...............................9 Dextrin...........................................3
Priming composition #6:
Comments: This prime is safe to use with chlorate stars and gives a much better color than a black powder prime. The difference is most noticable on red stars which tend to a dark salmon color when primed with black powder. Preparation: Dissolve the potassium nitrate in hot water and mix with the charcoal.
Potassium chlorate................................52 Potassium nitrate.................................8 Charcoal..........................................30 Lampblack.........................................10 Binder............................................+5%
Priming composition #7:
Comments: A standard black powder priming cannot be used with stars that contain ammonium perchlorate, since a double decomposition reaction forms the highly hygroscopic ammonium nitrate. This makes the stars unignitable. Replacing the potassium nitrate prime by this priming composition solves that problem. Preparation:
Sodium nitrate....................................80 Paulownia coal....................................15 Sulfur............................................5
Priming composition #8:
Comments: Used for strobe stars of ammonium perchlorate base to prevent nitrates from the outer priming to react with the ammonium perchlorate. The layer should be at least 1-2mm thick. Preparation:
Potassium perchlorate.............................74 Rosin (BL combustion agent) or Red gum............12 Hemp coal (or paulownia coal).....................6 Aluminum (fine flake).............................3 Potassium bichromate..............................5
10.1-11 Other compositions:
Golden rain #1: Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6], page 224 Comments: Burns with a yellow color, and emits yellow sparks that are formed by the slowly burning lampblack. Preparation: Potassium nitrate.................................18 Sulfur............................................8 Lampblack.........................................5
Golden rain #2: Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6], page 224
Comments: Burns with a yellow color, and emits yellow sparks that are formed by the slowly burning lampblack and the iron filings. Preparation: Potassium nitrate.................................10 Sulfur............................................2 Lampblack.........................................2 Fine iron filings.................................7
Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), sulfur based:
Source: Shimizu[1], page 70 Comments: For more details on what the effect looks like and how devices can be constructed, look at §10.4, "The phenomenon of Senko-Hanabi" in Shimizu's book (on page 68). Realgar may be used instead of sulfur, see 'Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), realgar based' for a realgar based formula. The realgar based formula produces larger en more beautiful sparks.
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................60 Charcoal or soot..................................10-20 Sulfur............................................20-30
Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), realgar based:
Source: Shimizu[1], page 70
Comments: For more details on what the effect looks like and how devices can be constructed, look at §10.4, "The phenomenon of Senko-Hanabi" in Shimizu's book (on page 68). Sulfur may be used instead of realgar, see 'Senko Hanabi (Japanese sparklers), sulfur based' for a sulfur based formula. This realgar based formula produces larger en more beautiful sparks than the sulfur based formula.
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................35 Charcoal or soot..................................20 Realgar...........................................45
"Pharaoh Snakes":
Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6], page 223 Comments: When lighted, this composition produces very voluminous snake-shaped ash. Mercury compounds are very poisonous, and extreme caution should be excercised during preparing and handling this composition. Wear gloves at all times, and use a fume hood.
Preparation: Instructions for making mercuric thiocyanate: 1) Dissolve 64 parts of mercuric nitrate in water, and separately dissolve 36 parts potassium thiocyanate in water. 2) Mix both solutions, and filtrate to collect the precipitate that forms upon mixing. 3) Rinse the collected precipitate 3 times with distilled water, and place it in a warm (not hot) place to dry.
Mercuric thiocyanate..............................100 Dragant...........................................5 arabic gum binder.................................qs
Charcoal fire dust #1:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221. Listed under the name "Chrysanthemum 6". The 6 in that name comes from the ratio of charcoal to potassium nitrate, which is 6:10. Comments: A reddish fire dust is obtained, which is relatively shortlived. When willow charcoal is used instead of pine, long lived fire dust is obtained.
Preparation: To obtain the fire dust, the potassium nitrate must be soaked into the charcoal. Hence a wet proces must be used for mixing.
Potassium nitrate.................................55 Sulfur............................................7 Pine charcoal.....................................33 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................5
Charcoal fire dust #2:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221. Listed under the name "Chrysanthemum 8". The 8 in that name comes from the ratio of charcoal to potassium nitrate, which is 8:10. Comments: A reddish fire dust is obtained, which is relatively shortlived. When willow charcoal is used instead of pine, long lived fire dust is obtained.
Preparation: To obtain the fire dust, the potassium nitrate must be soaked into the charcoal. Hence a wet proces must be used for mixing. Preparation:
Potassium nitrate....................49 Sulfur............................................6 Pine charcoal.....................................40
Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................5
Charcoal fire dust #3:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221. Listed under the name "Chrysanthemum of mystery". Comments: A weak fire dust is obtained since the composition contains no sulfur. It creates a different and lonely effect.
Preparation: To obtain the fire dust, the potassium nitrate must be soaked into the charcoal. Hence a wet proces must be used for mixing.
Potassium nitrate.................................45 Pine charcoal.....................................50 Soluble glutinous rice starch.....................5
Metal fire dust No.32:
Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221. Listed under the name "Winokur’s compositions". They originated from "The pyrotechnic phenomenon of glitter" by R. M. Winokur from Pyrotechnica No 2, february 1978 Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................38 Sulfur............................................13
Charcoal..........................................10 Barium nitrate....................................14 Aluminum, Atomized................................12 Red Iron Oxide, Fe2O3.............................8 Dextrin...........................................5
Metal fire dust No.33: Source: Composition from Shimizu[1], page 221. Listed under the name "Winokur’s compositions". They originated from "The pyrotechnic phenomenon of glitter" by R. M. Winokur from Pyrotechnica No 2, february 1978 Comments:
Preparation:
Potassium nitrate.................................43 Sulfur............................................10 Charcoal..........................................10 Barium nitrate....................................13 Aluminum, Atomized................................13 Red Iron Oxide, Fe2O3.............................7 Dextrin...........................................4
10.1-12 Sparkler compositions:
Sparkler #1:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics Comments: Preparation: Potassium perchlorate.............................40 Mixed titanium fines..............................40 Dextrin...........................................18 Propyl guar.......................................2
Sparkler #2:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics Comments: Preparation: Potassium nitrate.................................14 Sulfur............................................3 Charcoal..........................................3 Aluminum..........................................2
Binder............................................qs
Sparkler #3:
Source: Chemical abstracts[14] 122, 59596 Comments: Better visual effect, better spark lifting altitude. lower combustion rate, and better safety. Preparation: Charcoal..........................................5-20 Nitroguanidine....................................10-20 Ti or Mg/Al alloy powder (as spark forming component).....10-20 Fe-powder (spark forming)........................10-30 Potassium nitrate.................................balance
Sparkler #4:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by Footleg
Sparkler #5:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by Footleg
Sparkler #6:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by Footleg
Sparkler #7:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by Footleg
Preparation: Strontium nitrate.................................5 Shellac...........................................1
Sparkler #8:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by Footleg
Sparkler #9:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics, posted by Footleg
Sparkler #10:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Original by Bruce Snowden, post by Sweden
potassium perchlorate.............................47 Titanium..........................................47 Dextrin...........................................6
Sparkler #11:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Inventor of this composition is Bruce Snowden. posted by Sweden
Potassium nitrate.................................14 Sulfur............................................3
Charcoal..........................................3 Aluminum..........................................2 Binder............................................qs
Sparkler #12:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Original is by Bruce Snowden. Posted by Sweden
Potassium perchlorate.............................40 Mixed titanium fines..............................40 Dextrin...........................................18 Propyl guar.......................................2
Sparkler #13:
Source: "Mengen en Roeren"[6], page 224. Comments: Preparation: Mix the composition with a 10% dextrin solution in water, and dip iron wire or wood in the moist compositon. Adding 500 parts strontium nitrate will produce a red color, adding 60 parts barium nitrate will produce a green color. Potassium chlorate................................300 Aluminum granules.................................60
Charcoal..........................................2
Sparkler #14:
Source: rec.pyrotechnics. Posted by Tom137
Potassium perchlorate.............................10 Aluminum, finely powdered.........................7 Dextrin...........................................3 Water.............................................20
10.2 FIRECRACKERS:
A simple firecracker can be made from cardboard tubing and epoxy. The instructions are below:
1) Cut a small piece of cardboard tubing from the tube you are using.
"Small" means anything less than 4 times the diameter of the tube.
2) Set the section of tubing down on a piece of wax paper, and fill it with epoxy and the drying agent to a height of 3/4 the diameter of the tubing. Allow the epoxy to dry to maximum hardness, as specified on the package.
3) When it is dry, put a small hole in the middle of the tube, and insert a desired length of fuse.
4) Fill the tube with any type of flame-sensitive explosive. Flash powder, pyrodex, black powder, potassium picrate, lead azide, nitrocellulose, or any of the fast burning fuel-oxodizer mixtures will do nicely. Fill the tube almost to the top.
5) Pack the explosive tightly in the tube with a wad of tissue paper and a pencil or other suitable ramrod. Be sure to leave enough space for more epoxy.
6) Fill the remainder of the tube with the epoxy and hardener, and allow it to dry.
7) For those who wish to make spectacular firecrackers, always use flash powder, mixed with a small amount of other material for colors. By crushing the material on a sparkler, and adding it
to the flash powder, the explosion will be the same color as
the
sparkler. By adding small chunks of sparkler material, the device will throw out colored burning sparks, of the same color as the sparkler. By adding powdered iron, orange sparks will be produced. White sparks can be produced from magnesium shavings, or from small, LIGHTLY crumpled balls of aluminum foil.
Example: Suppose I wish to make a firecracker that will explode with a red flash, and throw out white sparks. First, I would take a road flare, and finely powder the material inside it. Or, I could take a red sparkler, and finely powder it. Then, I would mix a small amount of this material with the flash powder. (NOTE: FLASH POWDER MAY REACT WITH SOME MATERIALS THAT IT IS MIXED WITH, AND EXPLODE SPONTANEOUSLY!) I would mix it in a ratio of 9 parts flash powder to 1 part of flare or sparkler material, and add about 15 small balls of aluminum foil I would store the material in a plastic bag overnight outside of the house, to make sure that the stuff doesn't react. Then, in the morning, I would test a small amount of it, and if it was satisfactory, I would put it in the firecracker.
8) If this type of firecracker is mounted on a rocket engine, professional to semi-professional displays can be produced.
10.2-1 salutes:
Salute is just the high tech name for anything that its primary purpose is to just blow up with a sound. Examples of a salute are firecrackers, M-80's (which are too powerful to be classified as firecrackers), and aerial salutes (an aerial shell with a flash powder charge). Salutes are very basic and easy to make. M-80s, M-160s, Ash cans, Silver salutes, or any other large salutes are illegal & have been since 1966. Due to The Child Protection Act. (I think Cherry bombs were even banned before that in 1965) The use or manufacture of these will result in serious punishment by law. These Devices are VERY dangerous, & can easily take fingers or a hand. I do not reccomend trying to make them! They have been known to just go off any damned time they please. Traditional salutes had 2-3 grams of a 70/30 mix of Potassium Perchlorate(KClO4)/Aluminum powder. (400-600 mesh) The larger salutes like the "Quarter Stick" have about 15 grams of powder in them. (No relation to dynamite or any other high explosive at all) The M-160s have about 10.
Materials:
-carboard tube -kraft paper -elmer’s glue -visco fuse -fast buring gun powder(or other fast burning powder)
Procedure:
I make my own tubes alot of the time. I take a piece of kraft paper I buy from Walmart. About the same thickness of a grocery bag. 1 & 1/2 inches wide, & about 18 inches long. Roll it tightly around a 1/2 inch dowel, with Elmers School Glue on one side of it, spread somewhat thinly. I then pull it off let it dry, while its drying, I cut 2, 1/4 in. pieces of the 1/2" dowel. Then I round off one end to go into tube better. I put a bead of Elmer's glue around the piece of dowel & stick it in. When the tube is dry, drill the hole in (WITH NO EXPLOSIVE IN THE TUBE) the tube, the same size of your fuse so it fits snugly, & a little of you'll never guess what.., Elmer's School Glue around the fuse (around 3 in, or more) to seal it better. Then put your explosive in about 3/4 of the way up the tube. Do not fill the tube all the way, & glue the other piece of dowel in.
If you have commercial tubes, put one plug in, I push mine in with a dowel, they go in hard. Drill the fuse hole out, glue fuse in again. Fill 3/4 the way with explosive, & carefully push the last plug in with the dowel of the same size of the inside of the plug. If you just ram it in, it may pack the powder, decreasing performance. If that happens your just screwed. It may even go off it you ram it too hard!
10.2-2 Bum Style salute:
Materials:
Casing Powder Fuse Tape
Matches (optional) Magnesium (optional)
Procedure: 1. Put fuse in. It could be in a hole already in the casing, or make one of an appropriate size. 2. Pour in powder and anything else (match heads, magnesium ect.) 3. Tape well. Wrap the whole thing in a lot of tape to make it strong. Tape every area equally and especially make sure the ends are strong.
10.2-3 Making tubes and end plugs:
Paper tubes:
Almost any pyrotechnic device is made using paper tubes. Rockets, lances, shells, fountains, mortars, etc. etc. Tubes can be found or bought, but sometimes it is better to roll your own tubes.
1. Select a strong, reasonably heavy type of paper. 70lb kraft paper works well and is sold in artists paint stores.
2. Select a glue. Wallpaper glue may be used, but I've had little success with it. If you do use it, use far less water than the package tells you to use. I personally prefer white glue. It makes strong casings and dries quickly.
3. Place a sheet of paper on a hard, flat surface. Cut it into strips as wide as long as you want the casings to be. The length of a strip will determine the wall thickness of the casings (if necessary, more strips can be used to obtain casings with thicker walls). Place one strip in front of you, and tape the far end to the working surface.
4. Place a dowel of the required diameter on the strip of paper, perpendicular to the strip, as indicated in figure 1.
5. To start, apply glue to the first edge of paper and roll it tightly around the dowel. Pay extra attention to the edges of the paper when applying glue. Press the dowel against the table and pull it towards you to prevent the paper from wrinkling.
6. Now, apply glue to the whole strip of paper. Again, make sure all the edges are well covered. Spread the glue evenly over the paper.
7. Start rolling. Pull the dowel towards you to prevent wrinkling.
8. You will most likely find that the dowel was not perfectly aligned with the paper and starts moving sideways as you roll. This can be corrected for to a certain extend by pulling more on one side of the dowel. However, it is better to avoid this as it will make the casings slightly less tight and strong. It takes some practice to master the technique well.
9 When the end of the paper is reached, cut the paper parallel to the tape with a sharp knife, and apply glue to the edges. Roll the last stretch of paper onto the dowel.
10.Trim the ends of the tube with a sharp knife and lay the tube aside to dry.
Paper Endplugs:
Materials:
A tube for the endplugs (size can vary) Glue A piece of dowelling that is about 1mm smaller ( as shown on the right) than the inside diameter of the tube you are using. It helps if you taper the top of the dowelling a little. (as shown on the top right) 8 pieces of Kraft paper (I used grocery bags)
Step1: Place a blob of glue on each piece of kraft paper and push them all together. Now you have a 4 layer thick piece of kraft paper. NOTE: I should have used smaller paper squares, when I took these photos, because a lot of the paper went to waste.
Step2: Place the piece of Kraft paper ontop of the piece of dowelling, and press it over it, untill you form it to the dowelling.
Step3: Slowly press the whole thing into the tube (it helps if you squeeze the paper tighter to the dowelling, so it will push in easier. REPEAT STEPS 1,2 and 3, for the second endplug.
Step4: Push in the other endplug and let it stand for 5 minutes.
Step5: After your 5 minutes are up, remove the endplugs and let them dry overnight.
Step6: Once dry, cut off the exess paper off of both of the plugs and you are done!
StepX: Whenever using paper, wood, or epoxy endplugs, it is ALLWAYS a good idea to score the inside of the tube, so the glue will hold the endplug in better.
10.2-4 Impact Salute:
A more involved (but better) method is described here. (Link to United Nuclear) Another type of Torpedo/Impact Salute is made using silver nitrate. Click here. (Link to a Skylighter bulletin)
Here is a picture showing the construction of torpedoes following United Nuclearís procedure, but using BBís instead of gravel.
These are some of the most fun, but most dangerous, fireworks you can make. If you do make them, extreme care must be taken. When you throw one of these against a hard surface they explode with a report and spray of match heads. You can use many different casings, but I prefer the hotel size shampoo bottles for these. They are a nice size and fit marbles well.
Warning! Blackpowder contains sulfur, and strike-anywhere matches contain potassium chlorate (KClO3). From Chem Info: "Potassium chlorate, or any chlorate for that matter, should never be used in combination with sulfur and sulfides. Mixtures containing both are very sensitive and may spontaneously ignite." If you do decide to make these, be very careful and use them as soon as possible to minimize the risk! The KClO3 is mixed with a binder on the match so not much will be exposed to the sulfur, but better safe than sorry. Be very careful if you make these!
Procedure:
1. Fill the casing with strike anywhere (SA) matches. Tap it down to fit as much as you can. 2. Fill the empty space with powder by putting some in and tapping it down. Fill it pretty full, but not too full, because you need some room for the matches to rub together. 3. Screw the cap on (Carefully!). When you shake the device, there should not be anything moving around inside it.
4. Tape it up very well. Make sure it is equally strong at all points.
To be extra sure it will go off, you can put in marbles. Put one in the end before filling, and one on the top. When thrown, they will smash together and set off the charge. I don't think the marbles are a big hazard because once I did one of these and found a marble only about 10 feet from where the device went off. Still you don't want them going off near you and you should always have eye protection.
Note: The matches will obviously be on fire and shoot in all directions. Do not use these were they can start a fire, such as around dry grass and stuff like that. I have started small fires with these, be careful!
10.3 Rockets:
Model Rocketry is probley one of the most popular forms of pyrotechnics. Rockets can be used to propelle explosives, burst charges with pyrotechnic compositions, flares, or smoke screens. This section with disscuse rocket basics, propellants, construction, and other facts.
10.3-1 Making Rockets:
1.) Introduction
Composite propellants are solid rocket fuels that are composed of separate fuels and oxidizers mixed together in one homogenous mass. This propellant is then either molded into a grain to be inserted in an engine or cast in an engine casing and left to harden. The fuels and oxidizers taken separately are generally unreactive. Composite propellants are used in a number of engines. There are engines that use water for fuel and an oxidizer, air for an oxidizer like a ramjet, and a liquid/solid engine that can be throttled. The rocket motors discussed here a best built by the amateur with propellant weights below 2 lbs. and preferably under 1 lb. This is still powerful enough to shoot a sizable rocket to well over 4 miles altitude. Before I get into propellant mixtures a few terms to learn are:
Specific Impulse - Defined as the impulse (force * time) delivered by burning a unit weight of propellant in a rocket engine.
Volume Specific Impulse - The product of specific impulse and density. This is expressed in pound-seconds per cubic inch. If the propellant's weight is kept constant, a propellant with a lower Isp but a higher density may outperform one with a greater Isp but a lower density.
Specific Force - This is a measurement of the ability for a gas to perform work. Specific force (F) is expressed in foot-pound per
pound.
3.) OXIDIZERS
Composite propellants contain both an oxidizer and a fuel. The oxidizer may be a monopropellant and as such contributes power to the propellant mix. The ideal oxidizer should decompose into totally gaseous exhaust.
Oxidizers used in composite propellants : Potassium perchlorate (KClO4). Potassium pechlorate was one of the first used oxidizers. One of it's drawbacks is the product of decomposition ( potasium chloride ) is not a gas at regular temperatures and does not contribute as a working gas. The KCl appears as a dense smoke in the rockets exhaust. Burning rates of propellants made with KClO4 are usually high at 0.8 - 0.9 in/sec at 1000 PSI. Densities of fuels made with KClO4 also tend to high at 1.8 - 2.0 gm/cc. Specific impulses are usually below 200 lb-sec/lb. Potassium perchlorate is hardly ever used im modern propellants. Ammonium Perchlorate NH4ClO4. This is the oxidizer of choice when possible. The products of diassociation of NH4ClO4 are 100% gas. The specific impulse of propellants using this oxidizer reaches 250 lb-sec/lb. Depending on the percentage of NH4ClO4 the burning rate may reach or exceed 0.5 in/sec. The products of exhaust are N2, CO, CO2, H2, H2O, and HCl. The HCl may pose some problem if the engine is used in high humidity as the HCl vapor may form visible hydrochloric acid fumes.
Ammonium Nitrate NH4NO3. This oxidizer is useful as it is usually available in bulk weight. The products of disassociation of NH4NO3 are 100% gas. However the temperatures produced by the propellant are low. For this reason,the specific impulse of NH4NO3 propellants are usually no greater than 180 lb-sec /lb and low percentage propellants have an Isp of 75 lb-sec/lb. The products of exhaust of NH4NO3 propellants are N2, CO, CO2, H2, H2O. These gases cause no special problems. The burning rate of NH4NO3 Propellants are low, ranging from 0.05 in/sec to 0.27 in/sec. The higher burning rates are possible if catalysts are used in the propellant. Prussian blue, chromium compounds (ammonium dichromate), or cobalt compounds are catalysts that are used. Ammonium nitrate is hygroscopic and undergoes a phase change if the temperature goes above 90 deg./F. Because of this phase change, some grains may crack if the temperature cycles about this temperature. The burning temperature of NH4NO3 propellants are lower than any other propellants especially at low percentages of oxidizer. Lithium Perchorate LiClO4. Some work has been done using lithium perchlorate as an oxidizer. The lithium chloride formed in the exhaust is a gas at high temperatures. Lithium salts are hygroscopic and must be protected from high humidity. Burning rates of LiClO4 propellants are similar to KClO4 mixtures.
4.) FUELS
Fuels Used in Composite Propellants : Since most rubbers and polymers are not available to the general public, some adjustments have to be made. A good source of plastics is an auto supply store. There you can find epoxy resin
which can be used as a fuel. You will also find fiberglass resin. This is a liquid made from polystyrene and polyester resin. It is catalyzed with a few drops of hardener. PVC plastic can be dissolved in tetrahydofuran to make a thick paste. This can be mixed with an oxidizer and allowed to dry for an extended time to form a propellant grain. Asphalt was used in some JATO units about 30 years ago but it was found lacking when used at high temperatures. Some fuels used in commercial engines are polyurethane rubber, polysulfide rubber, and butadiene-acrylic acid. Non ferrous metals are added to propellants to increase the temperature of combustion and consequently the Isp. The metals most used are aluminum, magnesium, and copper. The metals are usually added in amounts of 5% - 25%. In engines designed to breath water as an oxidizer, metal amounts to about 50% to 80% of the weight of the propellant. The other components are usually ammonium perchlorate and a polymer.
Propellant Grain Geometry : If the grain is ignited from end on, like a candle burns, the thrust will be steady or neutral. If the grain has a hole in it extending end to end and the combustion takes place from the inside out then the thrust will rise to a peak or be progressive. This is because the surface area of the grain becomes greater as it burns whereas in a neutral grain the surface area remains the same. A cruciform shaped grain produces a large amount of thrust first then tapers off because the surface area becomes smaller. If the grain is tubular and the combustion takes place from both the inside out and the outside in, then the thrust will be neutral but fast burning. Wherever you wish the grain not to burn, it must be coated with a retardent.
Epoxy works well as a retardent as does Elmers white glue. At least two coats of retardent should be used. An epoxy retardent can be used to retain a grain in a rocket engine. When tubular grains are used, the igniter is usually put towards the nose of the rocket and fires backwards towards the nozzle. This insures the grain is ignited completely. Inspect the propellant grain for any cracks or imperfections. A crack can cause the surface area of the propellant to increase astronomically. This can cause an explosion because of the increased pressure.
5.) PROPELLANT MIXTURES
The ratios of oxidizers and fuels depends on the type of engine desired. The amount of oxidizer can be as high as 90% as in some ammonium nitrate mixes to as little as 20% ammonium perchlorate as in some water breathing engines. Go to the rocket propellants section for more formulas.
A fast burning mixture: Potassium Perchlorate 20% Isp=200
Ammonium Perchlorate 55% Epoxy Resin/Hardener 17% Powdered Aluminum
8%
This is very fast burning but the exhaust makes a fairly heavy smoke.
A slow burning propellant. Great for sustainer engines. Isp=165
Ammonium Nitrate
70%
Ammonium Perchlorate 10% Polyester Resin
18%
Powdered Charcoal
2%
Not very powerful but useful. The charcoal helps keep the combustion steady.
A very powerful mixture: Ammonium Perchlorate 75% Isp=250
Powdered Aluminum 10% PVC in THF
15%
All the ingredients should be dampened with THF (tetrahydrofuran) before mixing. Do this in an area with very good ventilation and wear rubber gloves to keep from contacting the THF with bare skin. This mixture is best used in a perforated grain to help the solvent evaporate.
An ammonium nitrate based propellant: Ammonium Nitrate 70% Isp=160
Powdered Aluminum 5% Polyester Resin 18% Ammonium Bichromate 5% Powdered Charcoal 2%
A good mix when perchlorates are not available.
Do not under any circumstances use chlorates for rocket propellants. You will not make a rocket, just a pipe bomb with fins.
6.) COMPOUNDING PROPELLANTS
One thing to keep in mind when making a propellant, the volume of fuel/binder to volume of oxidizer and additives must not be too low. If it is then the mixture will be too dry to mix well. It will also hurt the strength of the grain. You may have to cut down on the amount of oxidizer depending on the fuel you are using. For rockets weighing 1 pound and less the easiest way to make the propellant is to obtain a suitable container for mixing and put in the bottom of it the correct amount of fuel/binder. The other ingredients are added one at a time to the fuel and mixed in. One thing that really determines the success of a propellant is the particle size of the oxidizer. It should be as finely powdered as possible. Continue mixing the propellant until it is a homogeneous mixture. Now pour it or stuff it into the engine casing taking care to eliminate all air bubbles. Any mandrels needed to form the grain to shape shpould already be lubricated for release and in place. After waiting a suitable time for the binder to harden, remove the mandrels and place the engine in a warm place to finish curing. Inspect the grain for any cracks or imperfections. Some large propellant grains are constructed by cementing smaller grains together. Disks of propellant can be glued and stacked to form a long grain. The disks can be drilled with a number of holes to make a progressive or regressive burning grain. The holes are lined up when the disks are stacked. If you construct a press with a number of guide rods to match the drilled holes, so much the better. The cement can be a very thin layer of the polymer used to make the grain. If you are using a PVC based grain, then dampen both
mating surfaces with THF and press them together for a minute before adding the next disk. You can also load a cardboard casing with the propellant. After the propellant is cured, this cartridge is loaded into the engine. When drilling these propellants or using any power tool for shaping them, use the lowest speed while checking to make sure no heat is building up on the cutting surface. If care is used, machining propellants is safe.
7.) ENGINE CONSTRUCTION
The typical engine is designed to operate at 1000 psi. The casing of the engine should be able to withstand at least 3000 psi as a safety factor. A low carbon seamless steel tube with 1/16" walls can withstand that sort of pressure. If the tubing has a welded seam, test fire a few engines to see if the tubes can take the pressure. One drawback to using steel as an engine casing is if the engine explodes you have some very lethal shrapnel flying around. If you use a high strength/high heat plastic you can eliminate some of this danger. Epoxy can be used to wet down a mat of fiberglass then the fiberglass is rolled around a large dowel to form a casing. The dowel has to be coated with a lubricant to keep the epoxy from gluing the casing and dowel together. Or you can obtain a heavy cardboard tube with the correct ID and coat it with epoxy then wrap epoxy/fiberglass around it. If the tubes are constructed properly they can take quite a bit of pressure before splitting apart. An rocket engine is equipped with a nozzle to accelerate the exhaust out of
the rocket at a high velocity. A nozzle has a convergent section that does this. A divergent section of nozzle is used to lower the exhaust pressure so the exhaust gases accelerate out of the engine at high speeds. The nozzle of the engine can be machined out of metal or made of a fireproof ceramic. If the nozzle and the casing are metal, they can be brazed together before the engine is loaded. The nozzle can also be screwed into place by using 4 - 6 screws going through the side of the casing into the nozzle. Care must be used to see that the screws don't break through the inside of the nozzle. On smaller rockets, you may be able to get away with plaster of paris nozzles or for more powerful motors try pressing a mixture of 90% kaolin and 10% aluminum oxide into a nozzle shape in the casing. Dampen the mix with a little water before pressing. You can make a nozzle die by turning 2 pieces of hardwood into divergent/convergent sections. This die should be fitted with a dowel guide pin at the mating points to help keep the die straight. A nozzle can be made from just a divervent section. This can be easily made by drilling the required hole in a section of nozzle. Then by drilling out the first hole with larger drills without completely breaking through, a diverging nozzle is formed. Smooth out the ID of the nozzle after drilling the holes. This type of nozzle is pretty good on smaller engines with a 1" ID or less. By using some ingenuity, you should have no problem in making a servicable nozzle. A rule of thumb to use for the ID of the nozzle is to use a hole that has an area (repeat-area,not diameter) 1/3 the area of the ID of the rocket engine casing. Most propellants burn unsteadily at low pressures. Solid rocket engines are equipped with a blast plug that allows the pressure to build up in the engine
before being blown out like a cork in a bottle. Sometimes the ignitor is combined with the blast plug in a single unit. A stiff plastic disk makes for a good plug. It should have a thickness of about 1/16". The engine is sealed with a plug in the fore section. Depending on the construction of the engine this plug may be made of wood, plastic, or metal. It is held in place with either screws or epoxy. This plug must make the casing gas tight. Remember most rockets develop 1000 PSI. The ignitor is simply an electric match. It can be made with nichrome wire or a small light bulb. The match is used to ignite a small charge of black powder that in turn ignites the propellant. The ignitors leads should be shunted together to eliminate premature ignition. A fuse can be used instead of electric ignition. If you go this route, be sure of the burning time of the fuse and allow yourself enough time to retreat to safety after igniting the fuse. I cannot recommend using a fuse because you cannot stop a fuse from burning if someone walks into your launch area. With electric ignition, everything is under your control until the time of launching.
8.) Engine Design
It would be nice to be able to give you the complete info on designing rocket engines. However, the required math would be a file about 300K in length. Also this file is mainly about propellants. The other info is gravy. The best I can offer is to check out your local library for design and engineering books. If you want to build a rocket to simply shoot off to stroke your pyro perversions, build a small engine containing no more than
4 oz. of fuel. Use a paper casing to keep the danger down and chances are very good that if your construction is sound you'll get the thrill of seeing your rocket go out of sight. If you plan to hoist a payload into suborbital projectory however, learn about thermodynamics, interior ballistics, and propellant chemistry. I recommend trying to get the book Amateur Rocketry Handbook. This book is out of print but it was put together by the Fort Sill Artillery School and contains a lot of valuable info.
9.) Testing and Firing
You should construct a few engines exactly the same and test fire a number of them to find out what to expect when you finally do launch a rocket . The engines can be buried nozzle end up in the ground and fired. Time the burning of the engine to figure out the rate of combustion of the propellant. Inspect the casing to see how it stood up. If everything seems okay you can construct a static testing fixture to measure the thrust. Keep in mind that even a small engine can put out a few hundred pounds thrust for a split second. When you do launch a rocket, keep people away from the launch site and under cover. Check out the skies for airplanes or other traffic. Don't *Launch rockets under conditions of low visibility or heavy winds.
10.3-2 SKYROCKETS:
An impressive home made skyrocket can easily be made in the home from model rocket engines. Estes engines are recommended.
1) Buy an Estes Model Rocket Engine of the desired size, remembering that the power doubles with each letter. (See sect. 6.1 for details)
2) Either buy a section of body tube for model rockets that exactly fits the engine, or make a tube from several thicknesses of paper and glue.
3) Scrape out the clay backing on the back of the engine, so that the powder is exposed. Glue the tube to the engine, so that the tube covers at least half the engine. Pour a small charge of flash powder in the tube, about 1/2 an inch.
4) By adding materials as detailed in the section on firecrackers, various types of effects can be produced.
5) By putting Jumping Jacks or bottle rockets without the stick in the tube, spectacular displays with moving fireballs or M.R.V.'s can be produced.
6) Finally, by mounting many home made firecrackers on the tube with the fuses in the tube, multiple colored bursts can be made.
10.3-3 Estes Skyrocket:
These rockets use commercial Estes engines.
Procedure taken from http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/projectsdevicesdir/estesskyrocket.html.
Materials:
-Estes rocket engine (C or D size) -Fused salute/other payload -Glue -Tape -Guidance stick
Procedure:
Scrape out the clay from the top of the engine. I have used D's with Class C shells and C's with cobs so far. Be sure you check the delay on the engine. A C6-7 for example has a 7-sec delay, meaning the rocket will probably be on its way back to the ground when it goes off. You DO NOT want this to happen! Use C6-3's if possible, if you only have 7's you must scrape out some of the delay mixture (gray/silver powder between main propellant and ejection charge) so it will go sooner. Now put the salute so the fuse touches the ejection charge. If using a cob in a C, it fits almost perfectly. Glue the payload to the engine and let it dry. Make sure it's on straight or your rocket will not fly properly (which could be very dangerous!). Once that is dry, tape the whole thing to your guidance stick (I used skinny dowels). You can glue the engine to the stick to be extra sure it will hold. Tape seems to work fine for C's, but for D size I'd definitely glue it along with taping.
C6-3 with cob, not yet wrapped in tape:
10.4 ROMAN CANDLES:
Roman candles are impressive to watch. They are relatively difficult to make, compared to the other types of home-made fireworks, but they are well worth the trouble.
1) Buy a 1/2 inch thick model rocket body tube, and reinforce it with several layers of paper and/or masking tape. This must be done to prevent the tube from exploding. Cut the tube into about 10 inch lengths.
2) Put the tube on a sheet of wax paper, and seal one end with epoxy and the drying agent. About 1/2 of an inch is sufficient.
3) Put a hole in the tube just above the bottom layer of epoxy, and insert a desired length of water proof fuse. Make sure that the fuse fits tightly.
4) Pour about 1 inch of pyrodex or gunpowder down the open end of the tube.
5) Make a ball by powdering about two 6 inch sparklers of the desired color. Mix this powder with a small amount of flash powder and a small amount of pyrodex, to have a final ratio (by volume) of 60% sparkler material / 20% flash powder / 20% pyrodex. After mixing the powders well, add water, one drop at a time, and mixing continuously, until a damp paste is formed. This paste should be moldable by hand, and should retain its shape when left alone. Make a ball out of the paste that just fits into the tube. Allow the ball to dry.
6) When it is dry, drop the ball down the tube. It should slide down fairly easily. Put a small wad of tissue paper in the tube, and pack it gently against the ball with a pencil.
7) When ready to use, put the candle in a hole in the ground, pointed in a safe direction, light the fuse, and run. If the device works, a colored fireball should shoot out of the tube to a height of about 30 feet. This height can be increased by adding a slightly larger powder charge in step 4, or by using a slightly longer tube.
8) If the ball does not ignite, add slightly more pyrodex in step 5.
9) The balls made for roman candles also function very well in rockets, producing an effect of falling colored fireballs.
10.5 22 cal. noisemakers:
These are really stupid, but if you are really bored it will give you something to do. One good thing about them is if you make them right and use green fuse, they will go off underwater. Just make sure to tape them to a rock or something because they float. Just get an empty .22 shell, fill it with powder, stick a fuse in it, and crimp it over with needle nose pliers. They aren't any louder than a firecracker, but the "homemade factor" makes them more fun. The only near-difficult thing is getting it bent over right. If it isn't bent well, it wont be very good. This picture shows what they should look like.
.22 Magnum (they are longer than normal .22's are the only ones that work. regular .22's are too short. You can also use larger cases like .223, .44 or any other long casing.
.22's properly bent
10.6 Class C Aerial Salute:
I'm certainly not the first person to think of making a Class C shell into a salute, but I'd never heard of anyone actually trying it, so I decided to give it a shot. The construction is very simple, just get a normal Class C shell (preferably one with a boring effect so you don't take apart a good one), make a small hole to empty the contents, put in some flash powder ,and seal it up again.
-Step one is to cut a hole in the shell with a knife. The hole should be as small as possible, while being large enough to shake out all the stars, powder, etc in the shell. The cut should be made on the top so you don't make it any larger in diameter sealing it up because it might not fit properly in the tube.
-Once empty, pour in your flash powder. I used 15g in this shell, you could probably fit at least 20g if you tried.
-Once the flash has been added, I stuffed in some tissue paper to hold it in and glued it in place.
-I didn't do a very good job in this one, but next tape over the hole to make it a bit stronger. Again, try to keep the shell the same diameter so it will fit in the tube.
-The shell can be launched just like any other, just take extra care in where the tube is pointing, these can be much more dangerous than ordinary shells. Also, be sure to label any modified shells so they donít get mixed up with normal ones.
10.7 Go Getters:
Go Getters are essentially rocket propelled stars. They are used in an aerial shell or in the head of a rocket and when ignited, they burn with a brilliant color (brilliant because the formulas all contain Magnesium powder) and shoot across the sky. Lit on the ground or in the air, they will fly off in a random direction with their bright tail fire. The Magnesium in these formulas will not degrade because of the unique solvent used.
RED
GREEN
YELLOW
ORANGE
Strontium Nitrate 50 %
-
-
37 %
Barium Nitrate
-
50 %
44 %
-
Potassium Perchlorate 5%
5%
4%
12 %
Magnesium Powder 13 %
13 %
11 %
12 %
Parlon 17 %
17 %
15 %
17 %
Hexamine 9%
9%
8%
8%
Cryolite -
-
12 %
8%
Red Gum 3%
3%
3%
3%
Boric Acid 3%
3%
3%
3%
Comments:
The chemicals are first finely powered (if they are lumpy or coarse crystals) then mixed well together. For the next step, you'll need a small squeeze bottle, similar to those plastic squeeze ketchup bottles you find in a restaurant. Take the mixed formula and slowly add Acetone (while mixing) until it has the consistency of pancake batter. The Acetone will melt the Parlon in the mixture making it plastic & gooey. Be sure to test the squeeze bottle you are going to use first by putting some Acetone in it. Acetone will also melt many plastics, so make sure your squeeze bottle isn't going to melt too. The melted Parlon in the mixtures will also coat the Magnesium Powder and prevent it from degrading. The Parlon here not only binds the mixture together, but it boosts the color of the flame by providing Chlorine to the burning mixture. Next, stand some M-80 tubes up end on a sheet of Aluminum Foil. Pump the mixture into them until they are about 80% full. If they are to be used in shells or rocket heads, insert a piece of Black Match (that's Quickmatch with the outside paper removed) all the way to the bottom, leaving about 1" sticking out the top. You can also insert a piece of Visco Safety Fuse, but the ignition delay will be longer. Let them dry for 3 to 4 days. When lit, they will burn with a brilliant colored flame and shoot off in a random direction. Be very careful if you light one on the ground. It can launch in an unpredictable direction... and with its burning hot Magnesium flame, ignite whatever it lands on.
10.8 Yogart Mine:
Note: "Mine" in pyrotechnics means "star mine", not "land mine". These are NOT made to explode when you step on them, they are made to shoot stars into the air when the fuse is lit.
*procedure taken from http://krimzonpyro.com/ep/projectsdevicesdir/yogurtmine.html.
The traditional way to make mines is to use sturdy cardboard tubes, but here is another way they can be made.
Materials:
-Yogurt cup with lid (this is where the name comes from!) -Lift powder (blackpowder or similar) -Stars (made or taken from other fireworks) -Anything else you want to add (crackling balls, firecrackers, fuses)
Procedure:
1. Get your yogurt cup (without the lid on) and wrap it in duct tape. There isn't an exact number of wraps or anything, but give it a minimum of 5 layers (preferably more). 2. Drill a fuse hole (you can make your hole before wrapping, but this way you can control the size of the hole better and don't have to work around the fuse while taping). 3. Pour in lift powder, stars, and anything else. 4. Put lid on and tape. I use two "X" patterns of tape to seal the whole thing. 5. Light it! Make sure it is in an open area and you are a safe distance away in case it explodes!
Fused:
Filled with powder:
Added crackling balls for extra fun!:
Lid taped on:
Pics from a few mines I've made:
10.9 Mine Bag:
We begin by taking a 2" cardboard gun/tube and stand it on end.
We then take 2 pieces of tissue paper (the extremely light stuff) about 11 inch squares. Center the two pieces of paper over the tube and with something just smaller than the ID of the tube lightly push the two pieces of paper down the tube.
Use your other hand to lift the tissue and allow it to be pushed down. Key thing here, DO NOT penetrate or tear the tissue, if you do .....start over! Stop when there is about 3 inches of the tissue still outside of the tube.
Now pull out the rammer and fold the remaining 3 inches of tissue down around the outside of the tube.
Now fill her up ma ma mia and keep the change! No, really, in a small tupperware type bowltoss in your effect stars/components, in this case I am using 1/2" gold comet stars.
Then add 1/3 cup of meal coated hulls (and I mean Meal, ie: BP)
Then simply add two cap fulls of Goex 4F (FFFF) to the mix. *NOTE if you are using home made BP USE MORE!
Ok so now go ahead and put the lid on the bowl and give it a little shake or two.
Now just take and pour the contents onto a piece of paper, being careful not to have little runaway stars!
Now take a piece of quickmatch, remove the paper from about 3/4" off the end, and then bend the bare match to form a letter "L" and lower the leader into the empty mine bag.
Now take the piece of paper with all the effects on it and use it as a trough to pour all of the effects into the mine bag. Then carefully fold up the 3 inches of tissue around the outside of the tube, and sinch and twist it tight around the quickmatch. Then use a 3 inch long piece of wire to twist and crimp around the tissue and quickmatch sealing the device.
Your rolling now.......Immediately mark or label the device to its effect.
As with any single device like a shell, mine, candle etc. use a piece of visco at the end of your leader for a safer shooting environment.
Wow you are done, (the device we just made is to be shot from a 2 inch mortar about 8 inches high)
10.10 Making Cut Stars:
Stars, the pieces of composition that burn to make colors or other effects, are an essential part of pyrotechincs. There are three types of stars, cut, round, and pressed/pumped. Cut stars are the easiest to make and make a great project for a beginning pyro as well as making great fireworks!
Basically, cut stars are made by wetting the composition, flattening it into a patty and cutting it into cubes that are then dried. Everyone has their own personal technique, this is how I do it and you may find a better way or some variation that you find works better.
Materials:
Star composition Priming composition (depending on star comp) Ziplock or other sealable plastic bags Plastic spoons Wax paper Rolling pin
Cutting tool Newspaper
The first step is to mix your star composition ("comp" for short). In the example here I'm making "Silver Shower #3" from the Composition Database. It's the same procedure for any composition except for variations in the liquid used to bind the star (sometimes just water, sometimes water and alcohol, sometimes just alcohol, etc.) and the safety precautions needed (mask, gloves, etc.) depending on the chemicals involved. It's a good idea to lay down newspaper over your work area to help with the cleanup.
Chemicals to make the star comp:
Weighing out the chemicals:
When each chemical is weighed out, it is poured into one of your bags. The bag should be labled to help you remember what's in it and so you can resuse the bag.
Chemicals in the bag:
The composition is then thouroughly mixed by shaking it in the bag, pressing out any lumps you may feel. It must be well mixed to work properly.
Mixing in the bag:
Depending on the composition used, you may need to prime your stars. Priming is used for compositions that do not light easily, so they must be coated in a comp that does light more easily to transfer fire to it. There are many different primes that can be used but the simplest is just fine blackpowder. Once you have your stars cut, a 50/50 mixture of blackpowder and star comp is used to coat the stars and then an outer coat of blackpowder to aid ignition. The 50/50 mix does not have to be measured perfectly, just add one scoop of star comp to one scoop of BP in a bag and shake to mix it together. Once this is done, set it aside for later.
50/50 star prime:
The rest of your star comp is now ready to be moistened. I use a seperate small bag from the one the comp was mixed in. As mentioned earlier, the liquid used to bind the stars depends on what composition you are using, a common one is 75/25 water and isopropyl alcohol, but you should check to see if you need a specific one for your comp. The liquid is added slowly with and eye dropper to the comp in the bag, which is kneaded to mix the liquid into the comp. The ammount of liquid needed will depend on your comp, so add slowly and mix often so you don't find you used too much.
Comp and liquid:
The comp will form a thick paste, it should be wet enough to stick together well but should not be dripping. Once enough liquid has been added and kneaded into the comp, it can be dumped onto wax paper.
It should look something like this:
Now your blob of comp needs to be flattened, this is done with a rolling pin, I put another sheet of wax paper down on top of the comp to keep the rolling pin a little cleaner, but you should definetly have a dedicated rolling pin, not the same one you use for cooking!
Rolling the comp flat:
The thickness of the comp depends on how large you want your stars to be. Once it's the desired thickness you can put away your rolling pin and get your cutting tool.
Flattened comp:
Your cutting tool can be a regular old knife, a plastic tool, or just about anything else that will make a cut. With your cutting tool cut the comp into strips, the width again depends on how large you want your stars to be.
The first cuts:
Next cut the other direction to make cubes out of the strips of comp. When cutting you'll know if you had too much water because it will be gooey and difficult to cut or dry and crumbly if you added too little water.
Cutting into cubes:
Now everything should be cut into cubes like the picture below.
Finished cutting:
If it applies to your comp, this is where you added the priming mix set aside earlier. The stars will still be wet so dust them with your priming mix then lift the corners of the paper they are on like you are diaper mixing flash powder to coat the stars evenly in priming mix. This can be done in several layers, including an outer layer of pure prime on top of the 50/50 mix that ignites the straigth star comp. This same method can be used to make color changing stars by coating them in a different composition. If the stars are drying out and you still need to add prime you can drip on more liquid to get the prime to stick.
Adding prime to stars:
Once coated, the stars are set aside to dry before they can be used.
Finished stars:
These are now ready to be used in shells, mines or many other pyrotechnic devices. They should first be tested by lighting a couple on the ground to observe burn characteristics like color/effect and burn time. Next they can be tested in a star gun to see how they do in the air, because performance can sometimes be very different once they are moving at high speed. A star gun is basically just a one-shot roman candle for testing stars, and it doesn't have to be anything fancy. Just get a tube that a single star can fit in, add some BP, stick in a fuse, and light. If the star lights and burns as planned then everything is good. If it doesn't light you need more prime, and if it doesn't burn as planned, you may need to do more experimenting with your formulas. Make sure your stars burn a safe time, you don't want stars to burn so long they fall back to the ground!
10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls:
(actually, coating anything with Black Powder)
Meal Coated Corn Cob (or Rice Hulls) is the explosive that is used to break open aerial shells, and at the same time ignite the Stars inside... without shattering them into dust. "Meal Powder" is nothing more than very finely powdered Black Powder (Gunpowder). Rice Hulls, for those who don't know what they are, are simply the shells of ordinary white rice. They look very much like grass seed... and if you really wanted to, you could use grass seed in place of Rice Hulls, but it's a very expensive alternative and there are much better (and less expensive) substitutes. There is nothing special about Rice Hulls, and in fact, you can use several other materials that are less expensive and work better, such as Corn Cob. The idea here is to have an explosive that is easily ignited, strong enough to break the shell and throw the stars a great distance, but not be so powerful that the explosion shatters the stars and renders them useless. If a small granular type material is coated with Black Powder, it burns much faster than just the Black Powder would alone. Coating the Corn Cob (or whatever you're going to use) not only increases the burning speed of the Black Powder, but the mixture is also far more bulky than Black Powder is alone. Because it takes up more space, it fills the empty gaps in the shell and holds the stars against the wall of the shell. The procedure outlined below is the method that we have used for the past 14 years to make Meal Coated Corn Cob.
Rice Hulls have historically been chosen because they are essentially free, and are considered to be a waste material. I'm told that in some states the local authorities pour Rice Hulls on the road for added traction in the winter time when it is slippery. Although they may be very easy to get in some places, they are nearly impossible to get a hold of in others. A nice substitute that we've found works even better is Corn Cob. Corn Cob is just what the name implies. It is dried & granulated Corn Cobs. Both Rice hulls and Corn Cob are available on our Chemicals & Metals page. In short, whichever material you choose, the procedure outlined below will work well for either.
*Note the difference in appearance between Rice Hulls (left) and Corn Cob (right). Either one can be used in this process, although Corn Cob does work a bit better in aerial shells.
Step #1: Making the Drying Bag
The first thing you'll need to make is a drying bag, which is just a large "pocket" with a fold-over flap. We make one out of some old window screen, fold the edges over and staple with an ordinary staple gun. Make sure it is large enough to hold about a cup full of Corn Cob or Rice Hulls. Set this aside for now, we'll be using it later.
Step #2: Preparing the BP Mix
Now, weigh out 375 grams of Black Powder and place it in a large container. Make sure that this container has a lid that snaps on and will not leak.
Weigh 75 grams of Dextrin and place it on a piece of paper.
Take the Dextrin that you've just weighed and run it through a strainer into the measured amount of Black Powder. This breaks up any clumps of Dextrin so that it will evenly mix with the Black Powder when you shake it.
Snap on the lid to the container and shake the Dextrin & Black Powder mixture until it's evenly mixed. Set this mixture aside.
Step #3: Wetting the Corn Cob (or Rice Hulls)
Measure out about a full cup of Rice Hulls (or Corn Cob), place them in a large plastic container and add about 2 cups of warm water.
Tamp down the dry Rice Hulls with your hands until they are all under water and wet.
Let the Corn Cob or Rice Hulls soak for 20 minutes, occasionally stirring them and tamping down any that may become dry on top.
Step #4: Drying
What we're going to do now may seem a bit strange, but it works just great. The hulls need to be just damp at this point... not wet and not too dry. You can either spread them out and allow them to dry to dampness (which takes several hours), or do it in 20 seconds flat using your washing machine. We use the washing machine as a large centrifuge by utilizing the "spin" cycle. Beware that your wife may kill you if she sees you doing this, so choose an appropriate time to dry your material.
After they have soaked for 20 minutes, open your drying bag over the washing machine, and pour in the soaking wet Cob / Hulls and water. The water will pour right through the screen bag and drain into the washer.
Fold over the top of the drying bag as shown to prevent any of the material from escaping during the spin.
Washers have a safety mechanism that disables the unit if the lid is opened. Although you don't need to bypass this feature, you can if you want to watch what's going on. To do this, look for the small tab or
slot that the lid pushes in to tell the washer that it's closed. Generally, all you have to do is to stick a screwdriver in the slot and the washer will operate as if the lid was closed. This really doesn't need to be done, but we've done it to show the washer operating. Before you actually spin the Rice Hulls, make sure that you can select a "spin only" position on the washer control. You might have to play with the control a bit to find the exact place that will make the unit spin, but not to spray in water and rinse.
Once you are confident that you can make it spin without spraying water, go ahead and set the wet bag of Cob / Hulls in there and turn on the spin cycle. Allow the bag to spin for only 20 seconds. Any longer will make the material too dry to use.
Remove the bag and have a look inside. They should be dark & damp, but not wet. Pour the damp Cob or Hulls into a large plastic container that you've got a lid for. Make sure that the lid fits well and doesn't leak. The container should be large enough to hold both the Cob / Hulls and the Black Powder with plenty of room to spare.
Step #5: Coating
Pour the Black Powder / Dextrin mixture that you made earlier in with the damp Cob or Hulls.
Snap on the lid, and shake well.
Lay out several sheets of newspaper (2 layers thick) and empty the coated material onto them. Break up any lumps that may have formed and spread the coated chunks out as thinly as possible. The coated
material will become dry to the touch when left overnight, but will not be completely dry for a couple of days.
Be warned that you now have an explosive spread out on the floor. It is very flammable and it is vital that there are no sources of ignition anywhere in the area while the Hulls are drying. Do not attempt to speed the drying up by heating the Hulls in any way. When dry, you can test the material by igniting a small pile of it (obviously far, far away from your large quantity of coated drying material). You'll notice that they burn very, very fast. Much faster than Black Powder does alone. This is because the fire can propagate faster around the outside of the Cob / Hulls and flash through the airspaces in between each piece. The coated Rice Hulls (or coated Corn Cob) can be stored until you're ready to use them in an aerial shell.
10.12 Strobe Pots:
Strobe Pots are small containers that contain a Strobe Mixture that flashes on & off when lit The Bright White Strobe Mix is an easy to make and very entertaining formula. It will strobe brightly even when made into small pea-sized pieces.
BRIGHT WHITE STROBE
Barium Nitrate 51 %
Potassium Nitrate 7%
Sulfur 19 % Magnalium 60 to 100 mesh 18 % Dextrin 5%
Comments:
Grind the Barium Nitrate and Potassium Nitrate into a fine powder that resembles Talcum powder. Mix the Nitrates with the other chemicals and pass the mixture through a fine screen to break up any lumps. Put the mixture in a zip-loc plastic baggie and shake well. Add just a small amount of water to the mix... a little at a time until it will just begin to stick together when squeezed between your fingers. Be very careful not to add too much water and shake & knead the mixture in the baggie each time you add a bit of water to make sure it is all absorbed. Once it is damp enough to hold together, you can test some by squeezing a pea-sized piece between your fingers. You can take the small piece outside and light it and it will flash brightly. Strobe Mix will light even if it is a little damp. It is sometimes difficult to light (especially when damp). If you have one, the best way to light a tiny test sample of it is with a propane torch. The damp composition can be pressed into small thimble-sized paper cups made by rolling up a sheet of paper, After you press in the composition, insert a 2" length of Visco Safety Fuse and press the composition around it. When the mixture dries (usually in a couple of days), it will become rack hard and
light easily with a fuse. The Magnalium in the formula is a special Magnesium & Aluminum alloy that makes the mixture flash so brightly.
10.13 Aerial Shells:
The following is the procedure that we've used to assemble Aerial Shells for the past 15 years. Aerial Shells are launched from a Mortar (a specialized cardboard or HDPE plastic pipe) sending the shell high into the air with its time delay fuse lit. When the shell reaches its maximum altitude, it explodes, igniting the colored stars inside and throwing them a great distance. Like all fireworks, these are by no means safe to manufacture and doing so is illegal in the United States unless you are licensed by the BATF. An assembled Aerial Shell "going off" on the ground in front of you (instead of hundreds of feet in the air) will most likely kill you or leave you disfigured for life. These directions will work for 4" through 8" shells, the sizes most commonly used by shell makers. We show the assembly of a 6" shell because it's a little easier to work with & to photograph. Shells smaller than 4" generally can be assembled in a simpler fashion (we'll cover that procedure in another section) and shells larger then 8" get a lot more complicated which we're not going to cover at all.
To save time & trouble, most people pretty much stick with using plastic shell casings (as opposed to paper). Although these directions will apply to any size, the most common are 4",6" and 8". One thing to do before assembling a plastic shell is to make sure the 2 halves fit together without effort. This may sound strange, but we've run into several bad casings that just don't fit together (and it can be quite aggravating to find this out after you've spent time loading your shell). Everyone seems to have their own way they put shells together... this is they way we've chosen. We've literally made thousands of shells over the past 15 years and we have yet to have a failure. It may sound like an exaggeration, but it is in fact quite true.
Part One, Fusing
roll.jpg (18124 bytes) end.jpg (11930 bytes)
The time-delay fuse used in aerial shell is known as 1/4" Time Fuse or Oriental Time Fuse. It is available in coils of different lengths and has a nominal outer diameter of 1/4" (although occasionally you will see other diameters for sale, stick with the 1/4") . All 4", 6" & 8" shells use the same length of fuse, 1.25" (11/4").
blade.jpg (18084 bytes) It is important that time fuse is cut with a blade and not a scissor-type device. The powder core is somewhat fragile and if cut with a scissors or similar device the end is crushed (to varying degrees) and the powder loosened from its packed state, increasing its burn rate.
crush.jpg (13236 bytes)Notice the difference in the scissors cut and blade cut end.
fuse1.jpg (8582 bytes)Insert the 1.25" long fuse into the bottom half of the shell, leaving about half the length sticking out the bottom of the shell.
glue1.jpg (10287 bytes)Using a Hot Melt Glue Gun, lay an even bead of glue around the base of the fuse sealing it to the casing. When cool, do the same on the inside of the shell. It is important that there be no gaps in the glue which could allow fire to enter the shell during launch.
fit.jpg (13430 bytes) gstraw.jpg (11027 bytes)Slip a Plastic Drinking Straw over the fuse end on the inside of the shell and glue into place. There are some straws that are just either too small or too large to fit over time fuse. Unfortunately, these are the "free" ones you'll find at your favorite fast food restaurant. What will fit are the "Flexi-Straws" found in just about every supermarket. They come in boxes of 100 and are very inexpensive.
cut.jpg (12420 bytes)Cut the straw off so it's just under the rim of the shell.
fill.jpg (12597 bytes)Fill the straw to within 1/4" of the top with granulated Black Powder. Commercial 3FG black powder or similar may be used.
plug.jpg (9070 bytes) Roll up a small ball of Tissue and push it into the end of the straw with a nail or pencil. It shouldn't be too tight, just tight enough to hold the powder in and not fall out when the shell is turned over.
check.jpg (13591 bytes)The completed, fused shell. Lay a ruler across the rim to make sure that the fuse tube does not protrude over the edge. If it does, just clip it short.
Part Two, Loading
Now that your shell is properly fused, it is ready to load with stars and a break charge.
begin.jpg (9698 bytes)For ease of assembly (and to protect the fuse protruding from bottom half), sit the two hemispheres on cardboard tubes or cups.
layer.jpg (15374 bytes)Starting with the top half (the one without the fuse), begin loading stars into the shell. Spread them one layer deep all around the inside of the hemisphere.
fullshl.jpg (16941 bytes)Continue loading until both halves of the shell have a layer of stars along the inside. Do not load the stars all the way up to the rim. There is a small lip on shell halves that must fit together, so leave a space of about 1/4" from the rim on both halves.
shlpaper.jpg (14076 bytes)Next, you will need some tissue paper, the kind that you wrap fragile items in or pack you Christmas presents with. You can certainly use other types of thin paper, even a 1 ply paper towel, but tissue paper is both thin and strong and easily obtainable.
The next thing you'll need are some Meal Coated Rice Hulls, info on making them can be found in the 10.11 Meal Coated Corn Cob & Rice Hulls section.
sshand.jpg (12101 bytes)Cut a piece of tissue paper about 12" square, form it into a little cup and dump a heaping handful of Coated Rice Hulls into it.
sball.jpg (13009 bytes)sspread.jpg (13128 bytes)Hold the package of Hulls by the top and drop it into the shell, quickly spreading the Hulls up against the wall of stars. The Rice Hulls pressing on the stars will prevent them from falling in. The tissue paper merely prevents the stars from migrating into the center of the shell during transport or launch.
strim.jpg (16488 bytes) smeas.jpg (15871 bytes)Trim the tissue paper so that it's under the lip of the shell casing. Add or remove some Rice Hulls until the shell is full to about 1/8" from the top. Check with a straight edge and be careful not to overfill, it would make it difficult to assemble the shell. Set this half of the shell aside when complete.
Loading the fused side of the shell with Hulls is a tad more difficult...
shole.jpg (11796 bytes)sholcup.jpg (13329 bytes)Cut another 12" square of tissue paper and tear a small 1/2" diameter hole in the center. Form it into a little cup with the hole at the bottom.
sslip.jpg (10932 bytes)Now gently, slide the paper cup over the straw and let it rest in the shell. If you bump the shell, your stars will go tumbling to the bottom, so be careful.
sspread.jpg (13128 bytes)Get a cupful of Coated Rice Hulls and all at once, dump the entire cupful into the shell. Do not do this slowly, the stars will fall in. If you just dump it in all at once, the Hulls will hold the stars in place before they've got a chance to fall. Spread the hulls around evenly.
strim.jpg (16488 bytes)Trim the tissue paper all around the shell and make sure that it doesn't extend above the rim.
smeas.jpg (15871 bytes)Do the same as you did on the other shell half, adding or removing Hulls until the shell is full to just about an 1/8" under the rim.
Part Three, Finishing & Closing
sflash.jpg (15932 bytes)Dump half a tablespoon of Whistle Mix in each shell hemisphere. The Formula for Whistle Mix and can be found in the 10.1-9 whistle mixtures section. Some pros like to use Flash Powder (as shown in the images), but stick with Whistle Mix. Flash Powder frequently breaks the shell too hard smashing the stars into dust, or shoots them out so fast that they blow out. You'll find that Whistle Mix works perfectly almost all the time.
sfm.jpg (15289 bytes)Spread the Whistle Mix around a bit and work it down into the Rice Hulls. This will help the shell break more evenly.
The shell is now ready to be closed. There are two ways to do this. You can simply snap the two halves together (as we do) or you can hold a piece of thin cardboard over one half. We'll show you both ways:
slip.jpg (15333 bytes)saim.jpg (14894 bytes)The quick way is to line up the two shell halves. One has a lip that fits inside the other. Rest the opposing shell on the lip and tilt them a little toward each other.
sclose.jpg (12038 bytes)sround.jpg (12398 bytes)With one fast move, snap the shell together. I know, it looks like everything will go flying, but every person who we've taught to do it, does it with ease. If you feel you lack the coordination to accomplish this daring maneuver, try the alternate method...
salt.jpg (11128 bytes) sready.jpg (9059 bytes)Place a thin piece of cardboard (like the kind you find on the back of note pads) on one half of the shell. Holding it in place, flip the shell over and lay it on the bottom half. Align the two halves, and slowly pull out the cardboard, snapping the two hemispheres together.
seye.jpg (12363 bytes)
sdrip.jpg (11728 bytes)
The shell is now ready to be sealed (you'll need a glass or metal container to catch the excess solvent that will drip off). Pull the shell just a hair apart (not too much, just a hair) and using either Xylol or Methylene Chloride in an eye dropper (squirt bottle, or similar), run the solvent around the seam of the shell. Rotate the shell so there are no dry gaps. Capillary attraction will draw the solvent into the seam and melt the plastic shell lips together.
shands.jpg (11216 bytes)
Before the solvent dries, push the shell halves firmly together making sure that the shell is perfectly sealed.
sup.jpg (6757 bytes)Support the shell and orient it so the time fuse is pointing up. The next steps will be the final fusing of the shell and attachment of the lift charge.
Part 4, Final Fusing & Lift Charge
sblade.jpg (9578 bytes)
Using a razor blade, slice the Time Fuse in half to a depth of about 1/4"
You'll need some Black Match, also known as "Crossmatch" (Black Powder coated cotton string) for the next step. You can see how that is made in the 12.1-2 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE section.
scross.jpg (9668 bytes)sxin.jpg (7500 bytes)Rock the blade back & forth to open up the time fuse and insert a 3" long piece of Crossmatch. Push the Crossmatch in so it's level with the top of the Time Fuse.
stie.jpg (8175 bytes)Using some good quality thread (or better yet, dental floss), wrap a few turns around the Time Fuse & Crossmatch securing them together. Tape the loose ends of the thread to the shell casing.
sring.jpg (8342 bytes)Flip the shell over, dip the fuse ring (that came with your shell casing) in some solvent and insert it in the top hole. The fuse ring will support the shell as it is loaded into the Mortar.
squick.jpg (10016 bytes)Lay the shell on its side and run a 4 foot length (approximately) of Quickmatch through the Fuse Ring, around the shell ending at the Time Fuse. The Quickmatch doesn't have to actually touch the Crossmatched Time Fuse. They will both be inside a pouch of Lift Powder (granulated Black Powder) and will ignite simultaneously. Tape the Quickmatch to the shell casing every few inches so it is secure. The Quickmatch needs to be about 18" longer than the Mortar you will be using to fire your shells out of.
The final step is to add a pouch filled with Lift Powder (coarse granulated Black Powder). We use homemade Lift Powder although commercial FFG or FFFG Black Powder can be used. If commercial Black Powder is used, the amount of lift charge is cut just about in half due to its faster burning speed. Directions for making Lift Powder can be found in the Basic Components section. Lift charges are as follows:
Lift Charges ( in grams )
4" Shell 6" shell 8" shell Homemade Lift Powder 60 100 200 Commercial Black Powder 35 60 100
These lift charge amounts should only be taken as a "ballpark" figure. There are many factors which come into play in determining the amount of lift charge to use; relative "strength" of the Black Powder, particle size, etc. One additional parameter is the length of the Mortars. Just as a point of reference, our 4" Mortars are 24" long and our 6" Mortars are 36" long.
ssolo.jpg (11693 bytes)A small pouch must be attached to the bottom of the shell to hold the lift charge. For the smaller 4" shells "Solo" cone shaped paper cups can be used. They're cheap and easily obtainable. Regular paper cups cannot be used because they're coated with wax making it difficult to attach them to the shell.
spouch.jpg (10783 bytes)Larger shells require that you fashion a pouch out of paper. A single sheet triangular folded with the ends trimmed and taped makes an excellent pouch. Of course any design can be used just as long as it can be attached to the shell and it doesn't leak out the Lift Powder inside.
smate.jpg (11205 bytes)stape.jpg (10523 bytes)The pouch is filled with the appropriate amount of Lift Powder and then securely taped to the bottom of the shell.
sdone.jpg (12158 bytes)Completed Aerial Shells showing a size comparison between a 6" shell, 4" shell and 36D breasts.
Always remember to tear off 12 to 18 inches of paper off the end of the Quickmatch fuse for delay before launching.
As stated before, Aerial Shells are complex and dangerous fireworks. Although this description of the assembly procedure is complete, many of the potential problems and warnings have not been addressed. Never attempt the construction of these devices unless you are licensed and have been properly trained to do so.
11.0 Fun with fire:
11.1-0 Napalm:
Napalm, is a mixture of fuel and gelling solution that are combined to produce a thickened mixture. The fuel gel mixture is stringy and sticky, and readily adheres to most surfaces.
Napalm is less flammable than gasoline and therefore less hazardous. The more polystyrene in the mixture, the harder it is to ignite. Napalm is harder to ignite than might be expected. Thermite is typically used to ignite napalm. A match or even a road flare will not ignite napalm. Some forms of modern napalm cannot be ignited by a hand grenade.
Napalm was developed at Harvard University in 1942-43 by a team of chemists led by chemistry professor Louis F. Fieser, who was best known for his research at Harvard University in organic chemistry which led to the synthesis of the hormone cortisone. Napalm was formulated for use in bombs and flame throwers by mixing a powdered aluminium soap of naphthalene with palmitate (a 16carbon saturated fatty acid) -- hence napalm [another story suggests that the term napalm derives from a recipe of Naptha and palm oil]. The aluminum soap of naphtenic and palmitic acids turns gasoline into a sticky syrup that carries further from projectors and burns more slowly but at a higher temperature.
11.1-1 military napalm:
It is typically a mixture of benzene (21%), gasoline (33%), and polystyrene (46%). Benzene is a normal component of gasoline (about 2%), while the gasoline used in napalm is the same leaded or unleaded gas that is used in automobiles.
11.1-2 “Jolly Roger's” napalm(yawn…):
ingredients:
-metal bowl
-gasoline
-styrofoam
Procedure:
Fill the bowl up about halfway with gas, then put some chunks of styrofoam in it. After the styrofoam melts, put more in. When you have a desired amount of gel. Give it a stir and doump out the eccess gas, and store the gel in an old(clean) coffee can.
11.1-3 napalm II:
About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat
gasoline is to fill a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.
11.2 Flame Throwers:
Flame throwers were used a lot in WWI and WWII. The military flame throwers are kinds hard to make and can be costly. These are the ones that I have made…
Aim-n-flame:
(most of you have made this…) Just take an aerosol can containing flammable liquid, spray, and light the mist. I have found that the best thing to use is starter fluid; it sprays kinda’ far and is very flammable.
Improvised aim-n-flame:
Get one of those plastic spray can handles from an auto parts store. Clamp the handle to a can of starter fluid. Mount an ignition source(small modified jet torches work best) in the handle and make it so when you pull the trigger on the handle, the flame is lit on the igniter (tricky). With nozzle of the torch pointing at the spray path of the starter fluid, the trigger is pulled, the torch is lit, and the can sprays causing a big flame. Basically just find a way to make a trigger activated ignition on the plastic handle that is clamped on to the spray can. NOTE: You can use any aerosol can that will produce a flame. Also, don’t let the flame go up into the nozzle or it may explode.
Super soakers:
Fill a super soaker with gas. Pump it up. Pull the trigger and light the stream of gas with a lighter. This is cool but after a while can be very dangerous! The gas will eat away at the plastic that the parts, tank, and gun are made of; if you use it for too long the tank can burst from the presser and blow up. I would suggest trying to modify the gun and if possible, replace the plastic parts with metal parts; and try to find a different tank that won’t get eaten by the gas.
11.3 Thermite:
Thermit is a fuel-oxodizer mixture that is used to generate tremendous amounts of heat. It was not presented in section 3.23 because it does not react nearly as readily. It is a mixture of iron oxide and aluminum, both finely powdered. When it is ignited, the aluminum burns, and extracts the oxygen from the iron oxide. This is really two very exothermic reactions that produce a combined temperature of about 2200 degrees C. This is half the heat produced by an atomic weapon. It is difficult to ignite, however, but when it is ignited, it is one of the most effective firestarters around.
MATERIALS _________
powdered aluminum (10 g)
powdered iron oxide (10 g)
1) There is no special procedure or equipment required to make thermit. Simply mix the two powders together, and try to make the mixture as homogenous as possible. The ratio of iron oxide to aluminum is 50% / 50% by weight, and be made in greater or lesser amounts.
2) Ignition of thermite can be accomplished by adding a small amount of potassium chlorate to the thermit, and pouring a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. This method and others will be discussed later in section 4.33. The other method of igniting thermit is with a magnesium strip. Finally, by using common sparkler-type fireworks placed in the thermit, the mixture can be ignited.
Red thermit:
Comments: This mixture is sometimes used for priming. Preparation: Pb3O4.............................................80 Ferro-silicon.....................................20
Other thermite mixes:
A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is :
Potassium Nitrate 5 parts Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts Sulfur 2 parts
Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse and burns intensely.
One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the thermite useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite must be heated to melt the sulfur. Iron Oxide 70% Aluminum 23% Sulfur 7%
Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325 degrees F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the diasite to hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix. When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting efforts. Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite powder.
EXOTIC THERMITES:
Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal flourides-magnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound in the mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into flames by mere contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium. A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any smoke from the burning mixture. If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of low energy metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead flouride and 10% aluminum.
Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately equal to cyanide compounds. Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When this burns,it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air. Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as whitelockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have to be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent of magnesium works well.
Devises:
THERMITE BOMB:
Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite formula and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix. Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and assemble mold. The mold will have to have a hole in it for
the fuse to stick out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week. DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN ! The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite. Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion. The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag around. Use this carefully !
THERMITE WELL:
To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferrothermite and insert a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the crucible. This should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well over your target and ignite the first fire. The well works this way. The thermite burns, making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet. This produces a small delay which gives the iron and slag more time to separate fully. The molten iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target. A 2 lb. thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with different configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a flower pot coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it. This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.
THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION:
This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself if you really truly want to make it before you do any work on it. It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights of charges because of the availability of parts changes from one person to the next. However here is a general description of this device affectionately known as a HELLHOUND. Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz. Drill a small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor through the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement. Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of the end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe. This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that
when the thermite is electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other finally setting of the flash powder charge. Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to keep the device away from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires out through the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy. Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline works great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is done.
The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the container is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When the thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix. The result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel. For the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may dissolve the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long. But ask yourself, do you really want to make this?
CAST THERMITE:
This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens into a solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite, but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts Iron Oxide 3 parts
Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that separates out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours. Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.
Fighting thermite fires:
Two ways to fight thermite fires are either smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it does help contain it and block some of the heat. The other way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water and release hydrogen gas. Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby flammable substances can catch fire even though no sparks or flame touch them.
11.4 Breathing Fire:
This is a cool thing to impress people with at parties and something I do when I am bored. This can be pretty dangerous, so on the second fire breathing method, make sure you read the precautions and safety tips.
Smaller flames:
Most people know about holding a lighter in your mouth while the button is held, then pushing the gas out your mouth and lighting it. I took this a step further. Take a butane refill canister, breath in deeply, put the nozzle of the butane can in your mouth and push down on the bottom of the nozzle with your finger. When your cheeks start to bulge, pull the can away, hold a lighter in front of your face, push the gas out of your mouth quickly, and light the gas. If you can’t do it well, try tipping you head back, before lighting the gas. DO NOT INHALE the gas! You could possibly blow your lungs up while breathing fire.
BIG flames:
*I got this info from this guy’s web site. So I’m crediting him.
Its dangerous. I have seen a couple of people burnt and I no longer do it. A better way to set yourself on fire could once be found here (unfortunately, that link is no longer with us and Limey is not responding to my e-mail - he must have done it once too often). After a long period when the Web was devoid of such valuable information, another site devoted to setting yourself on fire has finally appeared here (it doesn't give step by step instructions, but I'm sure you can improvise).
1. Practice with water
Practice with water to get a fine spray created by putting a small quantity of water in the bottom of your mouth and blowing air out of a small opening in you lips as fast as possible. Practice in order to get the spray as fine as possible and avoid dribbling the water down your chin as much as possible. If you are silly enough to move on to highly flammable liquids you will notice that (probably due to the much lower surface tension) you will inevitably get the lower portion of your face covered with the liquid. You don't want it all over your chest as well. 2. Get medical insurance
Get the top notch coverage. Imagine being stuck in a public hospital ward surrounded by other ghastly burns victims - not exactly a barrel of laughs, is it. You want your own room with a nice view and no mirror. 3. Don't do it alone
You will need a friend or two, who don't care about you too much, with the following equipment. 4. Fire Extinguisher
When your face catches on fire you will want it extinguished as soon as possible. In your state of panic you won't be too fussy, but its preferable to have something which works with flammable liquids, won't cause chemical burns to your skin and eyes and won't cause you to inhale nasty chemicals. A damp cloth or blanket might be best. 5. Car
Make sure your friends know how to get you to the nearest hospital. Better still, practice just outside the entrance to the casualty section. 6. First Aid Kit (optional)
If you only suffer very minor burns (for example, the chemical burns you get from the liquid) then you don't really need a first aid kit. For anything more serious you will want to jump in the car straight away. The advantage of taking a first aid kit is that in years to come, when people ask you that question ("what happened to your face") you will be able to explain, smugly, that at least you had the foresight to take a first aid kit. Unfortunately they will probably think you are stupid as you are ugly since you realised the danger and still went ahead with it. 7. Milk (optional)
If you are an optimist its a good idea to have a glass of milk before you start, to line your stomach. Its inevitable that you swallow some of the liquid. On the other hand, if they have to perform surgery its preferable to have an empty stomach. I'll leave it up to your good judgment. 8. Flammable liquid
I'm not sure what the best liquid is. I have tried mentholated spirits (alcohol) which does disgusting things to the inside of your mouth and shellite (like petrol without the additives). Kerosene is probably safer, though it probably tastes even worse than shellite. I believe paraffin is better. There are also some products specially designed for fire breathing, though some have been withdrawn because they cause cancer. Unfortunately there are no delicious healthy low calorie drinks which are also highly flammable. Having said that (and having it on my web page for quite some time), I received the following e-mail from someone who seemed to know what he was talking about:
dude please stop using ANY fuel that burns with out a wick or in liquid form. This will only cause you great pain, the reason for paraffin or a professional liquid medium like 'XXXXX' (name deleted - see below) is that it will not burn on your face if the flame gets too close and will not ignite liquid on chin etc. I find the fact that you even mention using alcohol or other highly flammable liquids on your site and dangerous thing as it gives people the idea of using the wrong fuel when they otherwise might not have thought about it or taking yours as a definitive answer to the question 'what to use'. 9. Brand
You need something to hold a flame away from your hand. I have used a stick with a bit of cloth soaked in the flammable liquid. You light it, hold it away from your body, take a swig of the liquid and spray it a bit above the flame. The atomised liquid should catch fire and burn very quickly (like this). If you are not careful it will burn back towards your face (like this) and set fire to the liquid on your face. Short, very fast breaths with liquids which are not too explosive are safest. Make sure you don't set fire to your hand or your friends either - the fireball can move quite a distance (like this).
11.5 Fire Balls:
They are cheap and easy to make and can be very impressive. A little warning, check the wind direction before you set it off. On occasions, fireballs have had the tendency to turn on their creator (the creator being me or you). *Look in the extras section, then go into misc. then into pics; there are some cool pics of what a nice could look like.
11.5-1 special effects fire ball:
Materials:
-Gasoline
-zip-lock bags -thick metal tube(about three feet long) -cherry bomb -squib -wire(300ft or longer) -ignition source
procedure:
Find a BIG gravel pit. Dig a hole in the ground that is as big a round as the metal tube and is about a foot and a half deep. Shove the metal tube in the hole and fill dirt in around the space in the hole around the tube. Make sure the tube is in the ground really tight. Now hook your squib to the wire. Pull the fuse out of the cherry bomb, and shove the squib in the cherry bomb and glue up the hole. Put the cherry bomb in the tube so it goes to the bottom. Now take a plastic bag and fill it with gas and zip it up. Put the bag down the tube. Step away from the tube with wires in hand till you get to the end of the wires. Plug your ignition source into the wires. Get down. And push the button. The ignition source with ignite the squib, which will set off the cherry bomb, the gas will get ignited and blown out of the tube. You should see a pretty big fire ball if you do it right. If you want a bigger fire ball, then put in another bag of gas, and so on. Make sure not to use too big of an explosive, or the tube may blow up; and make sure you are a good distance away from it when it goes off.
11.5-2 Petrol Fireball:
To make a huge fireball you will need the following:
-Empty can (empty beans can or something like that)
-Petrol -Plastic bag -Black Powder -Fuse -Drill bit and Drill(for fuse hole)
(example)
Ok, start by drilling a hole 1 cm from the bottom of the can. Then place a 5 inch long piece of fuse in the hole so it goes half way through the can. Then place a 2 cm layer of Black Powder in the can so it cover the fuse. Now take the plastc bag and pour some petrol in it and hold one of the top corners so all the petrol will move to one edge of the plastic bag. Now gently swist and tie the bag just above where the top of the petrol is in the bag.(confused yet???). Now put the little pouch of petrol into the can so it is directly above the layer of Black Powder and strech the very top part of the plastic bag over the top of the can and cellotape it tight so it will remain hanging over the Black Powder. Then put an improvised lid on the can (circle of cardboard with a bit of cellotape holding it so the tin. When complete, place on a flat surface and light the fuse then run like hell and watch as it exploded with a huge fireball, and don't forget to take some pictures of your pyrotechnic devices and send them in for me to put on the website.
11.5-3 Fireball from Hydrogen:
Although these are not the most impressive fireballs, they have an advantage of being able to float in the air unlike others therefore some interesting effects can be created. These are quite simple to make as the chemicals are easy to get hold of. To create, fill a balloon with Hydrogen and tie it up.
11.5-4 Fireball from Butane:
Butane can be bought as lighter gas and as gas for some gas fires which makes it an easy option for fireballs as it is easy to obtain. Filling the balloon can be difficult so I use an old pencil torch lighter case. I have taken the valve off the top and then when I want to use it, I just stick the top into the balloon and fill from the other end as if I was filling the torch. Once it is filled, I just tie it and start having fun.
11.5-5 Fireball from Propane:
Fireballs created from Propane seem to be the most impressive. Propane can be obtained from gas cylinders used for most large fires. It is also the easiest to fill the balloon as all that is needed is for the balloon to be put over the valve and for it to be turned on. Also, there is greater pressure therefore lots can be made very quickly. The only trouble is that it smells pretty bad. In case you haven't figured it out, all you do is put the balloon over the nozzle and turn on the gas. Once its filled, tie the balloon and get ready to use. Watch out for these ones. A friend did this and the fire ball engulfed him. Although fun, (I also have been engulfed in fire a few times and not just by gas filled balloons) it kinda singes you hair.
(propane balloon explosion)
11.5-6 Naphthalene Charges:
Naphthalene charges, or, more commonly nicknamed "Nap Bombs," are used in the movie industry to simulate fiery explosions that look somewhat like a plume of burning gasoline. They do have quite an impressive effect, and surprisingly this effect is somewhat easy to duplicate, provided that one has access to the proper materials.
NOTE: The term "nap bomb" is used only because it is the common Hollywood nickname for naphthalene charges, and it is in no way meant to depict "KeWl BoMZ" or any other similar destructive devices, nor does this site advocate or depict methods for making "KeWl BoMZ" or similar devices. Anyone considering to use and/or actually using naphthalene charges as destructive devices deserves to be emasculated with a pair of laboratory forceps, impaled upon a large rotissery apparatus, and slowly nitrated in the usual mixed acids.
The first material that must be procured is Naphthalene, which is a white volatile solid, formula C10H8. It is available in the form of mothballs or moth flakes. Be careful when purchasing the mothballs though, as most mothballs nowadays are made of Paradichlorobenzene, which will not burn and therefore not work. Check the package; usually it will say either "Guarantee: 99% Paradichlorobenzene," or "Guarantee: 99% Naphthalene." Buy the "99% Naphthalene" type. The next nessesary material is Black Powder or Pyrodex (NOTE: Smokeless Powder will NOT work for this). Black Powder works a bit better than Pyrodex, but Pyrodex still produces satisfactory results.
First, take a parallel wound kraft paper tube (the exact dimensions are not nessesary), ram an epoxy/sawdust endplug into one end of the tube, and allow the endplug mixture to harden and cure. When the endplug has completely solidified, drill a small (~1/8") hole just above the inner end of the endplug, perhaps about 1/8" beyond the inner end. Then insert a length of Visco fuse into the hole, and seal around it with hot-melt glue. Then, fill 1/4th of the remaining space in the tube with Black Powder or Pyrodex, making sure it does not get packed or tamped. Next, mix 30% by weight of BP/Pyrodex with 70% by weight of Naphthalene by the diaper method, and fill about 3/8ths (one and a half 4ths)of the tube space with it. Next, fill the remaining 5/8ths of the cardboard tube with powdered Naphthalene (powder it in a mortar and pestle, or by coffee milling it). Now bury it in the ground until only 1" or so of the tube is sticking out of the ground. You're done! If any of this has confused you, see the below diagram.
(EXAMPLE)
11.5-7 CREMORA FIREBALLS:
Materials:
-empty soup can -drill -black/ or smokeless powder -Cremoraä coffee creamer -visco cannon fuse
procedure:
You can make these as large as you want, but start with a small #10 can to experiment and scale up from there.
Drill a fuse or electric match sized hole through the side of a #10 can, right down next to the bottom, as far down as you can go, and still be IN the can. Then sprinkle some black powder or smokeless powder into the can, so that the bottom is just barely covered with it. Then cover the black powder with a layer of tissue paper. Then fill the can with Cremora (brand powdered coffee creamer—not all creamers will work), or calf's milk substitute (from yer local feed and seed or ag supply store). The higher the fat content, the better the fireball. Next, (and avoid having any part of yourself that you care about over the top of the can) insert the fuse or electric match into the hole you drilled. Be sure and be at least 50 feet away, if not further, when igniting it. A 5-gallon bucket makes a HUGE fireball and is basically done the same way. You can whiten the flame, by adding some bright aluminum powder to the Cremora.
11.6 Greek Fire:
Greek fire was like the first napalm. It was used in war back in the roman days, like on the movie “Gladiator”. This stuff is a bit unheard of these days. Greek fire is made as follows: take sulfur, tartar, sarcocolla, pitch, melted saltpeter, petroleum oil, and oil of gum, boil all these together, impregnate tow with the mixture, and the material is ready to be set on fire. This fire cannot be extinguished by urine, or by vinegar, or by sand.
11.7 Other Incendiaries:
Chlorate-Sugar mix:
This mixture can be either an incendiary or an explosive. Sugar is the common granulated household type. Either potassium chlorate (KClO3) or sodium chlorate (NaClO3) can be used; but potassium is potassium is preferred. Proportions can be by equal parts or by volume, or 3 parts chlorate to 2 parts sugar preferred. Mix in or on a non-sparking surface. Unconfined, the mixture is an incendiary. Confined in a tightly capped length of pipe, it will explode when a spark is introduced. Such a pipe will produce lovely casualties, but is not very good for breaching of cutting up. Concentrated sulfuric acid will ignite this very fast burning incendiary mixture. Placing the acid in a gelatin capsule, balloon, or other suitable container will provide a delay, (length of which depends on how long it takes for the acid to eat through the container).
Potassium Permanganate And Sugar:
Another fast burning, first fire mix is obtained by mixing potassium permanganate, 9 parts, to one part sugar. It is some what hotter than the chlorate sugar mix, and can be ignited by the addition of a few drops of glycerine.
Molded Bricks That Burn:
Proportions are 3 parts aluminum powder, 4 parts water and 5 parts plaster of paris. Mix the aluminum and plaster thoroughly together, then add the water and stir vigorously. Pour the resulting mix into a mold, let harden, and then dry for 2 to 3 weeks. These blocks are hard to ignite, and take a long time to make, but when ignited on mild steal, they have a tendency to melt it.
The Fire Bottle:
Fill a good Jack Daniel's bottle about one-fifth to one-fourth full with sulfuric acid. Fill the remainder with gasoline, kerosine, or a good combination of the two and mix thoroughly. Add water to Potassium Chlorate and sugar mix, and soak rags in the mix. Wrap the rags around the bottle, tie in place, and allow to dry. When thrown at a T-62 or other target, the bottle will break, the acid will ignite the chlorate-sugar mix on the rags, which will ignite the fuel.
11.8 “Negetive-X”
*Start a Fire with a drop of Water!
We used to call it "Negative-X" (I have no idea why), but I'm sure it's known by other names. Mix the powders together, pour it in a small pile and put a drop of water on it. In about a second, it will bubble and smoke and instantly burst into a blue-green flame.
"NEGATIVE-X"
Ammonium Nitrate
28 %
Ammonium Chloride
3%
Zinc Dust
69 %
Comments:
Grind the Ammonium Nitrate and the Ammonium Chloride together in a mortar & pestle until they are a fine powder. Add the proper amount of Zinc Dust and mix well.
[*Note that as soon as this is mixed, it becomes very water sensitive!]
Even a tiny amount of water will ignite the mixture. You must use this composition immediately after it is made - DO NOT STORE IT for any length of time, and do not mix it with other chemicals. It's a good idea to mix this formula & conduct this experiment outside.
Take about a teaspoon full of the mixture and make a small pile of it on the ground. Add a drop of water and quickly stand back. In a second it will bubble, hiss and smoke, and instantly burst into a blue-green flame. If you're really bored, you can make a few piles of Negative-X on the ground and try and hit them with a water pistol from a distance away.
WARNING:
Don't store this stuff, use all that you make each time. Eventually, (depending on how humid it is where you are) it will absorb enough moisture from the air (or whatever else it is touching) and ignite itself without warning! This is NOT something you want to mix on a rainy day.
11.9 How to make alcohol:
First you must obtain (steal) a holding tank. I recommend those 6 gallon Alhambra water jugs which are often left on porches and in driveways for refills. Just take it off the porch at 3:00 AM and run it home. Now, put it where you are going to put your still. They need to be kept together. Hide your still even if you don't have parents that will shit when they see it. This is illegal by federal law, and you could get busted pretty well. Make your still so it is collapsible and you can fit it all into a small box. Hide the box in your room. When you are going to use the still, take it out and hide it behind some bushes where a passing state trooper, snoopy neighbor, or phed busting you for pirated games won't see it. Keep the Alhambra jug where the still is going to be, cause they are way too big to hide anywhere. Also, keep your still somewhere with a good breeze or away from people who will smell it. When you are fermenting the shit, it will smell like puke or even worse. When you are distilling it, your heater might put off smoke. The alcohol will smell like alcohol, and heated mash smells worse than shit. Now go buy a shitload of fresh or frozen whatever (check the list below). Frozen corn will be easiest to deal with because it is already cut off the cob and is very forgiving with beginners. Besides, it's all part of a
great American tradition: Moonshine!
+--------------------------+------------------------+ | Ingredient
| Product
|
|--------------------------|------------------------| | Rye or Potatoes
| Vodka
|
| Molasses or Sugar Cane | Rum | Corn | Wheat or Rye | Barley or Rice | Grapes | Apple Juice | Rice
|
| Moonshine
|
| Whiskey
|
| Beer
|
| Wine
|
| Hard Cider | Sake
| |
+--------------------------+------------------------+
Put about 10 bags of corn in each jug and no more, because the carbon dioxide being released sometime pushes it up and out and you could get the shit all over the ground. What a waste. Besides, it will start to rot in the ground and smell even worse. Anyway, add just enough lukewarm water to cover the surface and leave the stuff exposed to air for about 2 weeks at room temperature. After a few days it will bubble and look and smell like puke, but that's no problem. It should do that. Just be sure you've got adequate ventilation. Installing a small fan in your Alhambra jug is no problem. Drilling holes in the sides of plastic with a sharp drill bit is easy. Drill two holes
near the top, where there won't be any corn (fans do tend to heat up and short circuit when exposed to water) and insert two tubes. Make the fan blowing air into your jug, and not out. The mist from the mash will wear it down after a while. Now, for the still. This is complicated, so bear with us. First, take a big beaker or something like it and put a big tube going out the top. You should glue around this tube, so none of the gas will escape. Now, run a smaller tube into the side of the bigger tube, and connect a valve to it. Now, connect the other side of the valve to your huge thing of fermented whatever, but make sure the tube connects at the bottom and goes straight across so the pressure of the water will push it along the pipe (pumps get too messy). I mount my Alhambra jug on bricks, so now the whole thing looks like this:
|
| |
Fermented | __ __ | | Shit |_____|______| | ___________/----|_|-----, | |
|
Valve |--|
|------|
/ \
|Bricks|
/ \
|------|
/Beaker\
|______|
(________)
Now, bend the big pipe around, so it is pointing down at a 45 degree
angle. Connect a bigger pipe to it. This will be the condenser. Connect a small pipe leading out of the condenser to a big cup or something that you will catch your 200 proof alcohol in. Also, make a rack to put the beaker on, so you can put a can of sterno or a bunsen burner under it. I would recommend putting a thermometer inside the beaker, so you can leave the temperature just above the boiling point of alcohol. If you don't, you won't get very strong alcohol. ________ |
/ ____ \
Fermented | __ __ / / \ \/\ Shit |_____|______| |
\ \
___________/----|_|-----, | |
|
Valve |--|
|------|
/ \
\ enser> \ /
|Bricks|
/ \
|------|
/Beaker\
|
|
|------| |
|
|------| |______|
\ /
(________) / /\ \ | \/
/cond-\
\ \_____________ \-------------,| ^ Pipe ^ ||
|
| __||__ | | |Sterno| |
|___________| | Alcohol | \_________/
Everything should be a little farther apart than depicted in the picture, but I only wanted to use 60 columns (80 columns with 1 inch margins). However, the longer the tube leading away from the beaker to the condenser,
the longer the distillation process will take, so keep that quite close. If you get the alcohol too close to the flame, it might evaporate. Keep that at the end of a long pipe. Now, there is only one last step. Take a very long length of surgical tubing (the stuff they make water weenies out of) and wrap it around the condenser, leaving almost no space in between coils. I usually wrap some duct tape around the tubing so it keeps it in place and insulates it a bit. Now, run one end of the tubing to mom's flower garden and the other end to a valve. Connect the other end of the valve to a hose or some other cold water source. Don't do anything stupid like use liquid nitrogen instead of water cause it won't speed up the distilling process. This is what the finished still should look like: ________ |
/ ____ \ ______
Fermented | __ __ / / \ \/,----- -=> Heated Shit |_____|______| |
\ / \ __ __ Water
___________/----|_|-----, | |
|
|------|
Valve |--| / \
\/ / / >--|_|- <=- Cold \/ / / Valve
|Bricks|
/ \
|------|
/Beaker\
|
|
|------| |
|
|------|
/ / / \____|__
Water
\/ /
(________) / /\ \ | \/ | | __||__ |
\ \_____________ \-------------,| ^ Pipe ^ || |___________| | Alcohol |
|______|
| |Sterno| |
\_________/
A friend of mine was going to be doing a lot of distilling cause he made a HUGE still. He was going first- class. He lived near a creek that stayed pretty cool, so he was going to figure out how to use that unlimited supply of water. The creek grew plenty of bushes, so he hid his still in them. He even painted the valves green and stuck them out of the bushes and glued leaves on to them so nobody could tell it was a still. But he still didn't have any water. He couldn't have a small electric pump, cause he didn't have any electricity. As it turns out, he now has 4 lengths of surgical tubing going down to the water, around his (superhuge) condenser. He made a rock and concrete dam about 3.5 feet high, to get a fast stream of suction. He then ran the tubes down to below the dam, and sucked on them. He siphons the water up and out of the creek, through the condenser, and back into the creek. His still is awesome! That thing can run as much as he wants it too, cause he isn't wasting any water, and it won't show up on any water bill. If you are going to be distilling a lot of stuff, you better make a tube going out of the bottom of the beaker so you can dump out the water and garbage and every now and then. Of course, connect it to a valve, so you won't loose any precious alcohol that's trying to turn into steam in the beaker. Make sure any tubes (like this one) aren't made out of glass and can melt. It's bad when tubes melt, cause that means you have to rebuild the still almost from scratch. Now that you've got it all set up and the corn (or whatever) is fermented
and hooked up to the beaker, turn the valve on a bit to drip some puke of your Alhambra jug into your beaker. Turn on the sterno or bunsen burner to a high flame so it will heat up the beaker. Turn on the cold-water valve so you have cold water flowing around the condenser at a trickle. If the water coming out of the condenser is cold, turn the valve so even less water is coming out, because you don't want to use too much water. But, if it's warm, it's not doing its job. Keep the water coming out about lukewarm. As this thing's just starting up, keep a good eye on your thermometer. You want to keep the temperature just above the boiling point of alcohol (which is less than the boiling point of water: 212 degrees). This is so you can separate the water from the alcohol by turning only the alcohol into steam, and you can get better stuff. If you're not sure of the boiling point of alcohol, ask your science teacher, or look it up, cause I don't know either. Now, watch it, and adjust the valves so the fermented stuff coming out of the Alhambra jug just equals the steam going up the pipe, and it won't fill up or boil dry. Adjust the cold water valve so the water coming out of the surgical tubing is slightly warm. Now, wait. Read a book or download another Six Feet Under production, but always keep an eye on the still. When the Alhambra jug is empty and the beaker is dry, you are done. Don't expect this to go very quick, however. If you like almost pure alcohol, distill it again. If you do it right, you could have no water at all inside your liquid high. However, even I haven't been able to get a batch that good. All it takes is practice and getting to know your still. They all have different personalities.
You now have around 198 proof ethyl alcohol in that collecting cup. Pour the alcohol through activated charcoal to remove that nasty shit that makes you retarded and blind. The stuff is now safe to drink, but don't. One swig of 200 proof alcohol will probably kill you. 150 proof is only for experienced drinkers (derelicts). The highest proof I've ever had is 138, and it must have been the worst experience of my life. Now, mix it in with about 3 parts alcohol and 5 parts Kool-Aid or distilled water or something. The more Kool-Aid or water, the less the proofage. To give you an idea, beer is around 6 proof, wine coolers are around 12, and wine is around 20. I wouldn't recommend more than 100 proof at all. If this is your first time, make sure you have a little bit alcohol and a shitload of Kool-Aid. You probably won't notice the taste or overdose that way. If it goes wrong, keep trying. Usually the first time, the stuff will taste like shit and be almost all water. It just takes some practice. Also, proof is roughly percentage times 2. 50% alcohol is 100 proof alcohol. 100% is way too high to drink. Never go above 75 percent alcohol (3 parts alcohol, 1 part something else), which is 150 proof. That shit could kill you.
11.10 Plaster incendiary:
It is made by mixing 6 parts by weight of anhydrous calcium sulphate (Plaster of Paris) and 4 parts by weight of "paint-grade" aluminium powder - this is about 300 mesh, and spherical. Mix the two as thoroughly as you can (screen it to remove lumps), then add enough water to form a thin paste, that can be poured into moulds. Pour it into the mould of your choice, I chose paper tubes, and let the plaster
set. Then carefully remove the block from your mould, and place it on a baking sheet. Bake it in the oven at gas mark 1 for a few hours, until nearly all the water has been driven out (ie, until the block is nearly equal in weight to the starting weight of your plaster and aluminium), then increase the temperature to gas mark 2 or even 3 until all the water has gone. Don't get it too hot too soon, the charge might crack.
11.11 Flash Paper:
Flash Paper is made using the same process as touch paper but the key difference is as the name suggests, it goes off with a flash rather than smoldering. It is easily prepared at home using a strong oxidizer such as chlorates. The method described will work with any oxidizer unless it is insoluble in water (which is unlikely as I cant think of any non-polar oxidizers). I use either Sodium Chlorate or Potassium Chlorate as both are strong oxidizers and easily obtained. Although Potassium Chlorate is preferred as it isn't hydroscopic, Sodium Chlorate can be used and still work even when damp if the Flash Paper is prepared well. The materials required will be boiling water, kitchen towels (although anything can be used, just make sure its absorbent), strong oxidizer (chlorate as it is easily obtained) and two containers.
To start, put the kettle to boil. The amount of water required varies depending on the amount of Flash Paper you intend to make. Mean while, take your paper and fold it in half two or three times. Continue until you have a desired quantity.
Now take the boiling water and pour it into one of the containers. Now begin to add your oxidizer and stir it until no more will dissolve. This is called a super saturated solution. Take a sheet of kitchen towel and hold it over the container and begin to pour the super saturated solution over it until it is all soaked. Now put it to the side and repeat with another bit of kitchen towel. Once it has all been poured through, pour everything in the collection container back into the pouring one and repeat. Continue this process until no more solution is left. You now need to dry your Flash Paper and it will then be ready to be used.
Flash Paper burns very fast (faster than black powder if made well) even unconfined. You must hold it with something such as pliers and not hold it in your hand. It is more dangerous than the Flash Paper that can be bought I think and I would not be surprised either to find that it is. Also, due to how light it is, it also has the tendency to propel itself if lit and not held with something. Lower quality Flash Paper could be used as a fuse however you should familiarize yourself with its burning properties before you consider using it as a fuse.
12.0 Fuses, delays, and timers:
You will most likely need to make something to ingnite your devise or composition. Here is everything you will need to know to do that.
12.1 FUSE IGNITION:
12.1-1 Visco cannon fuse:
(roll of Visco)
(piece of Visco)
Materials Needed: -Hobby Syringe (syringe without needle) I had a bit of a hard time finding these. I eventually found them at my local pharmacy, who sold them for the application of topical intra-oral medication. They usually cost about 25 cents, although the lady behind the counter gave me four of them for free. Also, I have heard that a farmer's supply store is a great place to look (the farmers use them for veterinary purposes). -Hollow-cored Cotton String I buy hollow-cored string from a local art store, which sells it because it makes an excellent wick for oil lamps or homemade candles. It usually comes with another, somewhat thinner string threaded through the core to prevent stretching. This should be removed. -Meal Powder The meal powder that I had used was the homemade ball-milled variety. However, commercial meal powder from the local firearms shop works just as well. -Dextrin I had used homemade dextrin in my Visco, but dextrin from health food stores or Skylighter works just as well. -25% Nitrocellulose Lacquer (optionally dyed green or red)
The nitrocellulose lacquer can be either homemade or bought from Skylighter. I used homemade. Also, adding a bit of camphor to the NC lacquer will plasticize the nitrocellulose after the solvent has evapourated, allowing for a more flexible fuse (the commercial plastic "Celluloid" is nitrocellulose plasticized with camphor).
Procedure:
1: Make Black Powder (BP) paste: Take 10 parts by weight of meal powder and thoroughly mix with 1 part by weight of dextrin (ie, mill it in a ball mill for half an hour). Boil some water and add it slowly to the BP/dextrin mix, while stirring, until the mixture has twice the consistency of white glue. 2: Remove the plunger from the syringe and plug the hole at the bottom with a thumb. Pour the BP paste into the syringe, filling it almost to the top. Reinsert the plunger and turn the syringe upside down, and depress the plunger until all excess air in the syringe has been removed. 3: Insert the nozzle of the hobby syringe into one end of the hollow core string and slowly depress the plunger so as to allow maximum consistency of BP paste in the center of the Visco, allowing for a more consistent burn rate. The string should ideally be 1 meter in length. Refill the syringe using the method outlined in step 2 whenever necessary. Continue injecting the BP paste until it is visibly exuding from the end opposite of injection. This means that the core is as full as it is going to get. 4: Remove the string from the syringe's nozzle and lay it down on a flat surface. Gently roll the string between the heel of one's hands and the flat surface to further even out BP paste distribution and increase burn rate consistency. Allow the string to dry outside in the sun for a period of 24 hours, turning the string over every hour or so to prevent the BP paste filler from becoming uneven. 5: After the filler has dried, apply a thin coating of 25% Nitrocellulose lacquer to the entire external surface of the string and allow it to dry in the sun. This will waterproof the fuse and allow it to be used in potentially wet situations. 6: Let the fuse sit in the sun for 24 hours after all the wet fuse components have dried to ensure minimum moisture content, which interferes with the burning of the fuse. Check the burn rate, and label each length of fuse with a sticker that indicates the exact burn rate of the particular fuse. This is not necessary but highly recommended as each fuse's burn rate may be different from the next one's. 7: The imitation Visco is now ready for use. It can be used wherever commercial Visco is used.
Comments: When I was injecting the BP paste into the string, I occasionally noticed it 'squirming' out of the weave of the string. This tells you that you are injecting the BP paste too fast. If you notice that this happens, slow down your injection speed. Also, wrapping the external surface of the string temporarily in masking
tape seems to efficiently hold in the paste during injection. This means that using a faster injection rate than would normally be usedis possible. The fuse I made using the above outline instructions burns a bit faster than commercial Visco does. In the course of experimenting, I have found that binder-fuelled fuse comps burn slower than do BP or other comps, whilst still providing plenty of heat. Therefore, substituting a KNO3/Red gum composition in (m)ethanol (acetone dissolves the syringes) for the BP paste stated above would provide a slower burning, though just as reliable, fuse. Also, using less sulphur and more charcoal in the BP used for the BP paste will slow the burn rate. But, as the old adage goes, "to each, his own."
12.1-2 HOW TO MAKE BLACKMATCH FUSE:
Black Match is the most used type of Fuse in pyrotechnics. This fuse can be made even by a novice pyrotechnic enthusiast. As I have learned to make good black match it requires a lot of practice to create a good Black Match fuse.
Ingredients:
-FFFFg Black Powder (Goex or Elephant Only) -Cornstarch or Dextrin -Cotton String (Non-waxed)
Tools Need: Coffee can or Pan Hobby Knife Plastic Mixing Spoon Paper Towels Latex or Plastic Gloves
Procedure:
Make sure to do this outside, you don't want this to ignite inside when drying. It normally takes about a day to dry.
Mixing the ingredients:
In your coffee pot or whatever you are using to mix the ingredients mix, 1/4 teaspoon of dextrin, 3 tablespoons of FFFFg Black Powder, and 30ml of hot water. You want to make sure that you mix the ingredients very well. The consistency should be that of oatmeal.
Improvement: (This step is not necessary but will greatly improve upon the reliability of the fuse.)
With only one string the fuse will still work however, what if you added more strings to the fuse. There are multiple ways to do this.
1. Have 2 coffee can with the mixture in it and a string in each, after the string is dipped in the black powder solution twist the string together. When the strings dry they will be stuck to each other.
2. The other way to improve the string is to braid 3 pieces to string together. This will create area for the black powder to stick to the string.
Add the String:
To prevent the Black Powder Mix from getting under your skin I recommend putting on some either plastic or latex gloves. With how sensitive things are now, you don't want to get question repeatedly why you have Black Powder on you hands. I find it easy to soak some string in the mixture you want to rub in the paste to make sure that the Black powder really gets absorbed.
Letting the String Dry:
Lay it out on a piece of sheet metal, lean, plexiglass, or other non-absorbent material (definitely not wood) to dry. Your fuse will stick to the board and when you pull off the string some of the powder will be left on the board and this will ruin your fuse. Keep on soaking the string in the mixture until there is no more left in the container. This should create about 40 feet of black match. Let this dry outside for at least a day. After the string has dried wind it up on something and try not to handle much, bits of Black Powder will flake off and the fuse won't work as well.
12.1-3 HOW TO MAKE AN ELECTRIC FUZE:
Take a flashlight bulb and place it glass tip down on a file. Grind it down on the file until there is a hole in the end. Solder one wire to the case of the bulb and another to the center conductor at the end. Fill the bulb with black powder or powdered match head. One or two flashlight batteries will heat the filament in the bulb causing the powder to ignite.
12.1-4 ANOTHER ELECTRIC FUZE:
Take a medium grade of steel wool and pull a strand out of it. Attach it to the ends of two pieces of copper wire by wrapping it around a few turns and then pinch on a small piece of solder to bind the strand to the wire. You want about « inch of steel strand between the wires. Number 18 or 20 is a good size wire to use.
Cut a « by 1 inch piece of cardboard of the type used in match covers. Place a small pile of powdered match head in the center and press it flat. Place the wires so the steel strand is on top of and in contact with the powder. Sprinkle on more powder to cover the strand.
The strand should be surrounded with powder and not touching anything else except the wires at its ends. Place a piece of blackmatch in contact with the powder. Now put a piece of masking tape on top of the lot, and fold it under on the two ends. Press it down so it sticks all around the powder. The wires are sticking out on one side and the blackmatch on the other. A single flashlight battery will set this off.
12.1-5 Quickmatch fuse:
Quick Match is a slightly modified piece of Black Match that has been enclosed by a 1/4" paper tube. This helps force the smoke and sparks forward when the Black Match is lit inside. This is great for setting off Multiple fireworks within a short amount of time. This is what professional pyrotechnicians use.
Items you need:
Ingredients: -Black Match from previous -Kraft Paper
Tools Need: -Cool Glue gun -Glue Sticks
-Hobby Knife or Scissors -5/16 wooden dowel at least 24"
Before you begin this project you should all ready of made some Black Match.
Procedure:
(This you can work on inside.)
Making the pipes:
You want to create enough pipes to cover all of your string. Cut the Kraft paper into 1 1/2" strips going from one side of the roll to the other. After you get a couple of strips cut, you want to take the wooden dowel and bend all of the strips around the dowel this will help make the paper easier to hold and glue. Now only take one of the strips and completely bend it around the dowel. Take the cool glue gun and put a small stream of glue along where the end will overlap the Kraft paper. You want to do this the entire length of the pipe to make sure that no gases can escape from it. After you make of few of these move on to the next step.
Connecting the Pipes:
You are going to take the Black Match that you created and use it to thread the Kraft tubes that you created onto the fuse. To connect the pipes you are going to put a 1" slit in the end of one of the pipes that you want to connect. Put a bead of glue around that end an push it into the other tube. Use the glue gun to smear glue around where the tubes are connected. You are now done with that section of fuse.
12.1-6 The Nichrome/Fuse Igniter:
The Nichrome/Fuse igniter is easy to make from available materials, and has the extra safety advantage of a short delay produced by the fuse. This is the best igniter to use for smaller Black Powder type ( Estes or homemade) rocket motors.
The materials needed for the Nichrome Wire/Fuse Igniter. A short length of Visco Safety Fuse, about 1.5" of Nichrome wire, and some insulated wire. You can use just about just about any type of insulated wire ( speaker wire, alarm hook-up wire, etc... all available at Radio Shack or your local hardware store ). Stranded wire is generally easier to work with, and much more flexible than solid wire. It's best to use wire no thinner than 20 gauge. If you plan on running the wires a long distance like 20 or 50 feet for launching model rockets, etc., then 16 gauge or 14 gauge wire would be better. The lower the wire gauge number is, the thicker the wire... and the less power it will take to fire the igniter. If you need some Nichrome wire, it is sold in 10 foot rolls, and is available at the Shells, Tubes & Fuse page.
Strip about 1" of insulation off the ends of each wire.
Using a sewing needle and a pliers, push the needle through the end of the fuse to make a small hole.
Twist the Nichrome wire tightly around one of the wires and fold over so it is secure.
Insert the other end of the Nichrome into the small hole in the fuse and connect to the remaining wire by twisting and bending over as you did before. Make sure the two ends of the wire are not touching each other, or the igniter will not work.
Finally, fold a piece of tape over the connections so it protects them and prevents them from touching each other. When power is applied to the opposite ends of the wire, the small piece of Nichrome will heat up, glow red hot, and ignite the fuse. Depending on how long your wires are, and how thick the wire you used is... as little as 3 volts ( 2 flashlight batteries ) will be sufficient to make the igniter work. Long lengths of wire may require as much as 12 volts, and very long runs may require even more.
12.1-7 HOW TO MAKE SULFURED WICK:
Use heavy cotton string about 1/8th inch in diameter. You can find some at a garden supply for tying up your tomatoes. Be sure it's cotton. You can test it by lighting one end. It should continue to burn after the match is removed and when blown out will have a smoldering coal on the end. Put some sulfur in a small container like a small pie pan and melt it in the oven at 250ø.
It will melt into a transparent yellow liquid. If it starts turning brown, it is too hot. Coil about a one foot length of string into it. The melted sulfur will soak in quickly. When saturated, pull it out and tie it up to cool and harden.
It can be cut to desired lengths with scissors. 2 inches is about right. These wicks will burn slowly with a blue flame and do not blow out easily in a moderate wind. They will not burn through a hole in a metal pipe, but are great for extending your other fuse. They will not throw off sparks. Blackmatch generates sparks which can ignite it along its length causing unpredictable burning times.
12.1-8 Connecting fuses together:
Connecting Visco to Visco The image on the left side shows the placement of the fuses, and the image on the right shows what it would look like after electrical tape (shown in gray so it won't be confused with the black match) has been applied.
Overlap the two fuses that are to be connected by at at least 1 inch, and tape them tightly together with electrical tape. Make sure the tape covers the very ends of both fuses. Visco becomes very hot and molten while burning, and easily ignites another fuse that is touching it. The electrical tape also holds in the heat, insuring ignition.
Connecting Visco to Black Match
Overlap the two fuses by about an inch and a half, then tape them in the middle. DO NOT tape them over the entire overlap section. Black match doesn't burn well (or at all) when taped. This just holds the black match close enough to the Visco so that it can be lit.
Connecting Visco to Quick Match
Cut a little bit of paper pipe off of the quick match so the black match inside sticks out. Insert a piece of Visco at least 1 inch into the pipe. Crunch the paper down around the Visco and black match, and cover it in electrical tape. When the burning end of the Visco enters the pipe, it will immediately ignite the black match and send fire racing own the tube.
Connecting Black Match to Visco
This type of connection is kind of tricky due to how difficult Visco is to ignite. First off, cut the Visco at an angle to expose more of the powder core inside. Bend the black match back on itself about an inch, making sure it touches the powder core in the Visco. Tape it, but not too tightly.
Connecting Black Match to Black Match
Overlap the two fuses by at least an inch and a half. Then just tape the two together like you would two pieces of Visco, but don't do it quite as tightly, and don't tape over the ends of each fuse. Black match doesn't really like to burn while wrapped completely in tape, so this allows a little extra room for it to burn to be sure the fire transfer takes place within the tape.
Connecting Black Match to Quick Match
Pretty much the same as connecting Visco to quick match. Stick the black match about 1 inch into the quick match paper pipe, then crunch down the paper around the fuses and tape it. Don't tape it very tightly, just enough to make it stay in. If there's too much pressure, the black match may just fizzle out once it gets to the taped point.
Connecting Quick Match to Visco
Basically the same thing as connecting visco to quick match, only reverse. In fact, I just used the same picture, but flipped it in order to look like I drew a whole new one! The only difference is that you
should make a small vent hole at the end to prevent the hot gases from just blasting the visco out of the end like a projectile without igniting it.
Connecting Quick Match to Black Match
Once again, just the same as connecting black match to quick match. Once again, don't tape it too tightly or it will choke off the flame and extiguish it.
Connecting Quick Match to Quick Match
Strip about 1/2"-1" of paper off of either end of the pieces of quickmatch. Crease down one side so that you're able to slide it into the other pipe (as shown at right), and attach with tape or a small amount of glue.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Visco
Cut a angled slit in the fuse to expose the core. Overlap the lead wires of the ignitor over the fuse, then bend it back around so that the match composition touches the powder core of the fuse. Tape this tightly, so that the hot gases produced by the ematch are trapped inside and ignite the visco.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Black Match
Same as above, but try to wrap the end of the black match around the ematch head to insure ignition, then tape as shown. A much more reliable method would be to connect the ematch to a short length of quick match, then connect the quick match to the bare black match.
Connecting Electrical Igniter to Quick Match
Cut about an inch of the paper pipe off of the quickmatch, and bend the exposed fuse back on itself and push it inside. Stick the ematch in at least and inch, and tape the end tightly. It's nearly impossible for this type of connection to fail.
12.2 IMPACT IGNITION:
Impact ignition is an excellent method of ignition for spontaneous war activities. The problem with an impact-detonating device is that it must be kept in a very safe container so that it will not explode while being transported to the place where it is to be used. This can be done by having a removable impact initiator.
12.2-1 Blasting Cap Impact Igniter:
One of the best and most reliable impact initiator is one that uses factory made initiators or primers. A No. 11 cap for black powder firearms is one such primer. They usually come in boxes of 100, and cost about $2«0. To use such a cap, however, one needs a nipple that it will fit on. Black powder nipples are also available in gun stores. All that a person has to do is ask for a package of nipples and the caps that fit them. Nipples have a hole that goes all the way through them, and they have a threaded end, and an end to put the cap on. A cutaway of a nipple is shown below:
________________ |
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_
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|/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\|
____| |^^^^^^^^^| |
__________|
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No. 11
|_______|
percussion _______ cap
|
here |
------- Threads for screwing
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|__________
|____
nipple onto bomb
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| |^^^^^^^^^| |_|
|/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\| |
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|________________|
When making using this type of initiator, a hole must be drilled into whatever container is used to make the bomb out of. The nipple is then screwed into the hole so that it fits tightly. Then, the cap can be carried and placed on the bomb when it is to be thrown. The cap should be bent a small amount before it is placed on the nipple, to make sure that it stays in place. The only other problem involved with an impact detonating bomb is that it must strike a hard surface on the nipple to set it off. By attaching fins or a small parachute on the end of the bomb opposite the primer, the bomb, when thrown, should strike the ground on the primer, and explode. Of course, a bomb with mercury fulminate in each end will go off on impact regardless of which end it strikes on, but mercury fulminate is also likely to go off if the person carrying the bomb is bumped hard.
12.2-2 MAGICUBE IGNITOR:
A VERY SENSITIVE and reliable impact initiator can be produced from the common MAGICUBE ($2.40 for 12) type flashbulbs. Simply crack the plastic cover off, remove the reflector, and you will see 4 bulbs, each of which has a small metal rod holding it in place.
CAREFULLY grasp this rod with a pair of needle-nose pliers, and pry gently upwards, making sure that NO FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE GLASS BULB.
Each bulb is coated with plastic, which must be removed for them to be effective in our application. This coating can be removed by soaking the bulbs in a small glass of acetone for 30-45 minutes, at which point the plastic can be easily peeled away.
The best method to use these is to dissolve some nitrocellulose based smokeless powder in acetone and/or ether, forming a thick glue-like paste. Coat the end of the fuse with this paste, then stick the bulb (with the metal rod facing out) into the paste. About half the bulb should be completely covered, and if a VERY THIN layer of nitrocellulose is coated over the remainder then ignition should be very reliable.
To insure that the device lands with the bulb down, a small streamer can be attached to the opposite side, so when it is tossed high into the air the appropriate end will hit the ground first.
12.3 ELECTRICAL IGNITION:
Electrical ignition systems for detonation are usually the safest and most reliable form of ignition. Electrical systems are ideal for demolition work, if one doesn't have to worry so much about being caught. With two spools of 500 ft of wire and a car battery, one can detonate explosives from a "safe", comfortable distance, and be sure that there is nobody around that could get hurt. With an electrical system, one can control exactly what time a device will explode, within fractions of a second.
Detonation can be aborted in less than a second's warning, if a person suddenly walks by the detonation sight, or if a police car chooses to roll by at the time. The two best electrical igniters are military squibs and model rocketry igniters. Blasting caps for construction also work well. Model rocketry igniters are sold in packages of six, and cost about $1.00 per pack. All that need be done to use them is connect it to two wires and run a current through them. Military squibs are difficult to get, but they are a little bit better, since they explode when a current is run through them, whereas rocketry igniters only burst into flame. Most squibs will NOT detonate KClO3/petroleum jelly or RDX. This requires a blasting cap type detonation in most cases. There are, however, military explosive squibs which will do the job.
Igniters can be used to set off black powder, mercury fulminate, or guncotton, which in turn, can set of a high order explosive.
12.3-1 ELECTRO-MECHANICAL IGNITION:
Electro-mechanical ignition systems are systems that use some type of mechanical switch to set off an explosive charge electrically. This type of switch is typically used in booby traps or other devices in which the person who places the bomb does not wish to be anywhere near the device when it explodes. Several types of electro-mechanical detonators will be discussed
12.3-2 Mercury Switches:
Mercury switches are a switch that uses the fact that mercury metal conducts electricity, as do all metals, but mercury metal is a liquid at room temperatures. A typical mercury switch is a sealed glass tube with two electrodes and a bead of mercury metal. It is sealed because of mercury's nasty habit of giving off brain-damaging vapors. The diagram below may help to explain a mercury switch. ______________ A /
\ B
_____wire +______/_________
\
\ ( Hg )| / \ _(_Hg___)|___/ | | wire - | | |
When the drop of mercury ("Hg" is mercury's atomic symbol) touches both contacts, current flows through the switch. If this particular switch was in its present position, A---B, current would be flowing, since the mercury can touch both contacts in the horizontal position.
If, however, it was in the | position, the drop of mercury would only touch the + contact on the A side. Current, then couldn't flow, since mercury does not reach both contacts when the switch is in the vertical position. This type of switch is ideal to place by a door. If it were placed in the path of a swinging door in the vertical position, the motion of the door would knock the switch down, if it was held to the ground by a piece if tape. This would tilt the switch into the vertical position, causing the mercury to touch both contacts, allowing current to flow through the mercury, and to the igniter or squib in an explosive device.
12.3-3 Radio Control Detonators:
In the movies, every terrorist or criminal uses a radio controlled detonator to set off explosives. With a good radio detonator, one can be several miles away from the device, and still control exactly when it explodes, in much the same way as an electrical switch. The problem with radio detonators is that they are rather costly. However, there could possibly be a reason that a terrorist would wish to spend the amounts of money involved with a RC (radio control) system and use it as a detonator. If such an individual wanted to devise an RC detonator, all he would need to do is visit the local hobby store or toy store, and buy a radio controlled toy. Taking it back to his/her abode, all that he/she would have to do is
detach the solenoid/motor that controls the motion of the front wheels of a RC car, or detach the solenoid/motor of the elevators/rudder of a RC plane, or the rudder of a RC boat, and re-connect the squib or rocket engine igniter to the contacts for the solenoid/motor. The device should be tested several times with squibs or igniters, and fully charged batteries should be in both he controller and the receiver (the part that used to move parts before the device became a detonator).
12.4 Detonators and Boosters:
Detonators (also called blasting caps) contain small amounts of primary high explosive used to detonate a less sensitive secondary explosive. Here are a few defintions useful to the beginner from www.wmdnm.org/:
Term: Primer Explosive Catagory: Conventional Explosives Definition: Classification of explosives that are used as the first step (detonation) in an explosive chain. PRIMARY explosives are initiated by shock, impact, heat, or heat-producing friction. Common examples include lead azide, lead styphnate, and mercury fulminate used in blasting caps.
Term: Secondary Explosive Catagory: Conventional Explosives Definition: Classification of explosives that are used as a booster and/or main charge after the first step in an explosive chain. Secondary explosives are relatively insensitive to shock, friction, flame, or heat compared to PRIMARY explosives. They may be initiated or detonated by a strong explosive wave.
Common examples include (1) boosters: pentolite, TNT, RDX, PENT, tetrytol, and tetryl; (2) main charges: dynamites and ammonium nitrate; and (3) blasting agents: nitro-carbo-nitrate.
Term: Blasting cap Catagory: Conventional Explosives Definition: A device used to initiate an explosive train. Commonly referred to as detoners, they contain PRIMARY explosives. May be either electrically or nonelectrically fired. Blasting caps are extremely sensitive and will explode unless handled carefully.
Term: Booster Catagory: Conventional Explosives Definition: High explosive boosters, also called primer explosives, or simply primers, are explosives that provide the detonation link in the explosive train between the very sensitive PRIMARY explosives and the comparatively insensitive main charge high explosives. It amplifies the detonation wave of the primary explosive.
The design of a basic detonator is very simple. It is just a container, usually a cylinder, filled with a primary explosive and having either a fuse or electrical ignition. You could use just about anything for the container, I like to use a section of a plastic pen. Commercial detonators are metal, which works well, but be aware of explosives that can react with metal, especially HMTD. For the pen design, I stuck a fuse in one end and glued it in place. Next, the primary is added and the other end is plugged. With sensitive explosives you must be very careful filling, pressing, and sealing.
Pressing your primary will improve the VOD and make it better at detonating the main charge. It is also however, one of the most dangerous parts of dealing with high explosives. Ideally you would have some kind of mechanical means to press caps where you are not near it and do not perform the pressing directly, but with something like a lever that will push down (slowly, gently, and smoothly) a rod slightly smaller in diameter than the inside of the cap. This is all done behind a shield so you will be safe from and accidental detonation.
Boosters are very simple as well. Commercially they are generally PETN or PETN based, and most often used to set off ANFO, which is too insensitive to detonate with just a blasting cap. Any HE can be used for a booster that will detonate from a cap: TNP, HDN, etc. You could even use primary like an AP cap with and AN/AP booster to detonate ANFO. Keep in mind of course that this will be more dangerous than a "normal" booster as the purpose of a booster is to minimize the use of sensitive primary explosives. You can make a booster simply by putting your explosive in a suitable container and either making a hole in it to insert the detonator or simply attaching the detonator to the side of the booster by taping it. This is then placed in the main charge to detonate it.
Warning! NEVER keep a detonator in a charge until use. If the detonator accidentally goes off on its own damage will hopefully be minimal, but if it goes off while in the main charge your problems will be a lot bigger.
(Pen detonators:)
(Diagram of a commercial detonator: )
(Commercial booster:)
12.5 Firing systems:
*This is how the military does it…
HOW TO PREPARE FIRING SYSTEMS
Information on the preparation and placement of demolition charges is in FM 5-25 and in GTA 5-10-27. This appendix covers the preparation of firing systems that are basic to all demolition work. There are two types of firing systems -- NONELECTRIC SYSTEM and ELECTRIC SYSTEM.
NONELECTRIC SYSTEM To prepare a nonelectric firing system, take these steps:
STEP 1. Clear the cap well of a block of TNT or push a hole about the size of a blasting cap (3 cm [1 1/3 in] deep and .65 cm [1/4 in] in diameter) in a block of C4 explosive.
STEP 2. To help prevent a misfire, cut and discard 15-cm (6-in) length of fuse from the free end of the time blasting fuse. That part of the fuse may have absorbed some moisture from the air through the exposed powder in the end of the fuse. STEP 3. Determine what length of fuse is needed. To do this, first compute the burning time of a 91.4-cm (3-ft) section of fuse. Divide this burning time by 3 to find the burning time of 30.5 cm (1 ft) of fuse. Next, determine the time it takes to reach a safe distance from the explosion. Now divide the time required to reach that distance by the burn time of 30.5 cm (1 ft) of fuse. This will give the number of centimeters (ft) of fuse needed. STEP 4. Inspect the nonelectric blasting cap to make sure it is clear of foreign matter. STEP 5. Gently slip the blasting cap over the fuse so that the flash charge in the cap is in contact with the end of the time fuse. DO NOT FORCE THE FUSE INTO THE CAP. STEP 6. After seating the cap, crimp it 3.2 mm (1/8 in) from the open end of the cap. Hold it out and away from your body when crimping. STEP 7. When using TNT, insert the blasting cap into the cap well. When using C4, place the cap into the hole made in the C4 and mold the C4 around the cap. DO NOT FORCE THE CAP INTO-THE HOLE. STEP 8. Insert the free end of the fuse into an M60 fuse igniter and secure it in place by screwing on the fuse holder cap. STEP 9. To fire the fuse igniter, remove the safety pin, hold the barrel in one hand. Take up the slack, before making the final strong pull. If the fuse igniter misfires, reset it by pushing the plunger all the way in. Then try to fire it as before. If it still misfires, replace it. STEP 10. If a fuse igniter is not available, split the end of the fuse and place the head of an unlighted match in the split. Make sure the match head is touching the powder train. STEP 11. Then light the inserted match head with a burning match or strike the inserted match head on a matchbox.
If the fuse burns but the explosive charge does not go off, there is a misfire. Wait 30 minutes before trying to clear it. If the misfire charge was not tamped (nothing packed around it), lay another charge of at least one block of C4 or TNT beside it. If it was tamped, place at the least two blocks of C4 or TNT beside it. Do not move the misfire charge. The detonation of the new charge should detonate the misfire charge.
ELECTRIC SYSTEM To prepare an electric firing system, take these steps:
STEP 1. After finding a safe firing position and a place for the charge, lay out the firing wire from the charge position to the firing position. Before leaving the charge position, anchor the firing wire to something. Always keep the firing device with you. Do not leave it at the firing position. STEP 2. Check the firing wire with the galvanometers or circuit taster to make sure it does not have a short circuit or a break. This is best done with one man at each end of the firing wire. To check for a short, separate the two strands (the bare ends) of the firing wire at the firing position. Have the other soldier do the same thing with the other end of the wire at the charge position. At the firing position, touch the bare ends of the two strands to the galvanometer/circuit tester posts. The needle on the galvanometers should not move, nor should the light on the circuit tester come on. If the needle does not move or if the light does not come on, the wire has a break--replace it. If the wire has no short when tested, test it for a break. Have the soldier at the charge position twist the bare ends of the strands together. Then touch the two strands at the firing position to the galvanometers/circuit tester posts. That should cause a wide deflection of the galvanometer needle or cause the circuit tester light to come on. If the galvanometers needle does not move or if the light does not come on, the wire has a break--replace it. STEP 3. At the firing position, check the blasting cap with a galvanometers or circuit tester to make sure it does not have a short. Remove the short circuit shunt and touch one cap lead wire using the galvanometers, the needle should make a wide deflection. If it does, the cap is good.
If the needle fails to move or only makes a slight deflection, replace the cap. When using the circuit tester, the light should come on when the handle is squeezed. If it does not replace the cap. STEP 4. Move to the charge position and, if the charge is a block of TNT, clear its cap well if the charge is a block of C4 plastic explosive, push a hole in it about the size of a blasting cap. STEP 5. Position the charge. Then splice the lead wires of the cap to the, firing wire (pigtail knot). STEP 6. Insert the cap into the cap well of the TNT and secure it with the priming adapter, or insert the cap into the hole made in the C4 and mold the explosive around the cap. STEP 7. Move back to the firing position and check the wire circuit with the galvanometers or circuit tester (same technique as described earlier).
If the circuit checked out and the blasting machine does not set off the charge, there is a misfire.
If an untamped charge misfires, investigate at once. If the charge is tamped, wait 30 minutes before investigating, then take these steps:
STEP 1. Check the firing wire connection to the blasting machine to be sure that the contacts are good. STEP 2. Make two or three more attempts to fire the charge. STEP 3. Try to fire it again using another blasting machine. STEP 4. Disconnect the firing wire from the blasting machine and shunt (twist together) the ends of the wire. STEP 5. Move to the charge position to investigate. Take the blasting machine with you. STEP 6. Check the entire circuit, including the firing wire, for breaks and short circuits. STEP 7. Make no attempt to remove the primer or the charge. STEP 8. If the fault has not been found, place a new primed charge beside the misfire charge. STEP 9. Disconnect the old blasting cap wires from the firing wire and shunt the ends of the blasting cap wires. STEP 10. Attach the new blasting cap wires to the firing wire and fire the new charge. This should also detonate the misfire charge.
12.6 DELAYS:
A delay is a device which causes time to pass from when a device is set up to the time that it explodes. A regular fuse is a delay, but it would cost quite a bit to have a 24 hour delay with a fuse. This section deals with the different types of delays that can be employed by a terrorist who wishes to be sure that his bomb will go off, but wants to be out of the country when it does.
12.6-1 Cigarette Delays:
It is extremely simple to delay explosive devices that employ fuses for ignition. Perhaps the simplest way to do so is with a cigarette. An average cigarette burns for between 8-11 minutes. The higher the "tar" and nicotine rating, the slower the cigarette burns. Low "tar" and nicotine cigarettes burn quicker than the higher "tar" and nicotine cigarettes, but they are also less likely to go out if left unattended, i.e. not smoked. Depending on the wind or draft in a given place, a high "tar" cigarette is better for delaying the ignition of a fuse, but there must be enough wind or draft to give the cigarette enough oxygen to burn. People who use cigarettes for the purpose of delaying fuses will often test the cigarettes that they plan to use in advance to make sure they stay lit and to see how long it will burn. Once a cigarettes burn rate is determined, it is a simple matter of carefully putting a hole all the way through a cigarette with a toothpick at the point desired, and pushing the fuse for a device in the hole formed.
|=| |=| ---------- filter |=| || || |o| ---------- hole for fuse cigarette ------------
||
|| || || || || || || || |_| ---------- light this end
12.6-2 TIMER DELAYS:
Timer delays, or "time bombs" are usually employed by an individual who wishes to threaten a place with a bomb and demand money to reveal its location and means to disarm it. Such a device could be placed in any populated place if it were concealed properly. There are several ways to build a timer delay. By simply using a screw as one contact at the time that detonation is desired, and using the hour hand of a clock as the other contact, a simple timer can be made. The minute hand of a clock should be removed, unless a delay of less than an hour is desired.
The main disadvantage with this type of timer is that it can only be set for a maximum time of 12 hours. If an electronic timer is used, such as that in an electronic clock, then delays of up to 24 hours are possible. By removing the speaker from an electronic clock, and attaching the wires of a squib or igniter to them, a timer with a delay of up to 24 hours can be made. All that one has to do is set the alarm time of the clock to the desired time, connect the leads, and go away. This could also be done with an electronic watch, if a larger battery were used, and the current to the speaker of the watch was stepped up via a transformer. This would be good, since such a timer could be extremely small.
The timer in a VCR (Video Cassette Recorder) would be ideal. VCR's can usually be set for times of up to a week. The leads from the timer to the recording equipment would be the ones that an igniter or squib would be connected to. Also, one can buy timers from electronics stores that would be work well. Finally, one could employ a digital watch, and use a relay, or electro-magnetic switch to fire the igniter, and the current of the watch would not have to be stepped up.
12.6-3 CHEMICAL DELAYS:
Chemical delays are uncommon, but they can be extremely effective in some cases. These were often used in the bombs the Germans dropped on England. The delay would ensure that a bomb would detonate hours or even days after the initial bombing raid, thereby increasing the terrifying effect on the British citizenry.
If a glass container is filled with concentrated sulfuric acid, and capped with several thicknesses of aluminum foil, or a cap that it will eat through, then it can be used as a delay. Sulfuric acid will react with aluminum foil to produce aluminum sulfate and hydrogen gas, and so the container must be open to the air on one end so that the pressure of the hydrogen gas that is forming does not break the container.
_
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| |_____________| | ||
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| | sulfuric | | || | | acid ||
|| || | |---------- aluminum foil
| |_____________| |
(several thicknesses)
|_________________|
The aluminum foil is placed over the bottom of the container and secured there with tape. When the acid eats through the aluminum foil, it can be used to ignite an explosive device in several ways.
Sulfuric acid is a good conductor of electricity. If the acid that eats through the foil is collected in a glass container placed underneath the foil, and two wires are placed in the glass container, a current will be able to flow through the acid when both of the wires are immersed in the acid. Sulfuric acid reacts very violently with potassium chlorate. If the acid drips down into a container containing potassium chlorate, the potassium chlorate will burst into flame. This flame can be used to
ignite a fuse, or the potassium chlorate can be the igniter for a thermite bomb, if some potassium chlorate is mixed in a 50/50 ratio with the thermite, and this mixture is used as an igniter for the rest of the thermite. Sulfuric acid reacts with potassium permanganate in a similar way.
13.0 Projectiles:
13.1 Polish cannon:
Part 1: The Polish Cannon Concept
The polish cannon was invented for all of you who would love to have a gun-type weopon or just something fun that shoots things. With about $1.50 worth of lighter fluid and materials around the home, you can make your very own cannon.
Part 2: Building the Cannon
Materials:
1: 2 or 3 empty Cambells Chunky Soup cans with BOTH ends cut out (or a can of the same exact size)
2: An empty coke can (or similar aluminum can)
3: Duct Tape
4: Tennis Balls
5: a Can Opener (like the ones used to open Hawaiian Punch or Hi-C cans) Ok. Take your empty soup cans and make sure both ends are cut out of all of them. 3 cans is best but 2 will do. To make sure you have the right size cans, put a tennis ball in one and make sure it fits snugly but not too tight. Place the cans end to end and tape them together making sure the ends of the cans are exactly aligned. After taping, slide the tennis ball through to make sure there are no spots where it gets caught.
Now take the empty coke can in your hand. Do not cut the top out of this. Instead, take the can opener and make 3 holes. There should now be the drinking hole and the 3 additional holes you made. Fit the front end of the can into one end of the soup can tube. The top of the can should fit inside. Now tape this on. Make a hole in the side of the coke can. Make the hole about half the size of a penny (not too small though).
You have now made your cannon.
Part 3: Firing the cannon
Set the cannon up with the open soup-can end pointed out in to a field or at the target. Then put a tennis ball in the end and push it all the way down. It should stop at the coke can top. Now take your
lighter fluid and sqirt about 1/8 inch of liquid in to the coke can through the hole you made. Place your thumb over the hole and shake the fluid. This will make a flammable gas. After a good shaking, quickly move your thumb away and light the hole with a lighter or match. Whoosh! The ball should launch.
Part 4: Problems and warnings
About 30% of my cannon shots fail. Here are some reasons: 1: not enough shaking 2: too little OR too MUCH lighter fluid 3: hole in side of can is too big 4: tennis ball is too tight 5: gas never lit because of a small hole
Warnings: 1: do not hold the cannon when firing (duh....) it has a lot of kick 2: be careful when lighting. On most failed attempts, instead of the rush of heat and flames shooting the ball, it shoots out the firing hole. 3: Make sure the cannon is supported well in the back when firing.
13.2 BASIC PIPE CANNON:
A simple cannon can be made from a thick pipe by almost anyone. The only difficult part is finding a pipe that is extremely smooth on its interior. This is absolutely necessary; otherwise, the projectile may jam. Copper or aluminum piping is usually smooth enough, but it must also be extremely thick to withstand the pressure developed by the expanding hot gasses in a cannon. If one uses a projectile such
as a CO2 cartridge, since such a projectile can be made to explode, a pipe that is about 1.5 - 2 feet long is ideal. Such a pipe MUST have walls that are at least 1/3 to 1/2 an inch thick, and be very smooth on the interior. If possible, screw an endplug into the pipe. Otherwise, the pipe must be crimped and folded closed, without cracking or tearing the pipe. A small hole is drilled in the back of the pipe near the crimp or endplug. Then, all that need be done is fill the pipe with about two teaspoons of grade blackpowder or pyrodex, insert a fuse, pack it lightly by ramming a wad of tissue paper down the barrel, and drop in a CO2 cartridge. Brace the cannon securely against a strong structure, light the fuse, and run. If the person is lucky, he will not have overcharged the cannon, and he will not be hit by pieces of exploding barrel. Such a cannon would look like this:
__________________ fuse hole | | V _________ _____________________________________________________ | |_______||_____________________________________________________| |endplug|powder|t.p.| CO2 cartridge | _____|______|____|____________________________________________ |_|______________________________________________________________|
An exploding projectile can be made for this type of cannon with a CO2 cartridge. It is relatively simple to do. Just make a crater maker, and construct it such that the fuse projects about an inch from the end of the cartridge. Then, wrap the fuse with duct tape, covering it entirely, except for a small amount at the end. Put this in the pipe cannon without using a tissue paper packing wad. When the cannon is fired, it will ignite the end of the fuse, and shoot the CO2 cartridge. The explosive-filled cartridge will explode in about three seconds, if all goes well. Such a projectile would look like this:
___ /
\
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| ------crater maker
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\
/
| | | | ------tape |_|_| | | --------fuse
13.3 Rocket launcher:
A rocket firing cannon can be made exactly like a normal cannon; the only difference is the ammunition. A rocket fired from a cannon will fly further than a rocket alone, since the action of shooting it overcomes the initial inertia. A rocket that is launched when it is moving will go further than one that is launched when it is stationary. Such a rocket would resemble a normal rocket bomb, except it would have no fins. It would look like this:
__ / \ |
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|C | |M | |
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\ _ /| || | |E | |N | |G | |I | |N | |E | |____ |
the fuse on such a device would, obviously, be short, but it would not be ignited until the rocket's ejection charge exploded. Thus, the delay before the ejection charge, in effect, becomes the delay before the bomb explodes. Note that no fuse need be put in the rocket; the burning powder in the cannon will ignite it, and simultaneously push the rocket out of the cannon at a high velocity.
13.4 potato guns:
CAUTION: Potato guns can BLOW UP! If they blow up near you, it is VERY bad! Do not use a potato gun that is damaged or weak. PVC pipe can only take so much stress. Using too much fuel can cause the expansion chamber to BLOW UP. Use your head. Don’t be stupid. DON’T shoot people or animals, because if you do…whatever you shoot will probley die! BE CAREFUL!!!
Basic Potato Gun:
Introduction
All combustion potato guns are based on this design. I have began to experiment with combustions guns.
I like combustion guns because they are easily to transport and they make a loud bang (like a cannon) when they are fired.
Materials:
* 1 10 foot piece of 1 1/2 inch diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe
* 1 10 foot piece of 3 inch diameter schedule 40 PVC
* 1 3 inch threaded female coupling (also called a cleanout trap)
* 1 3 inch threaded end cap (also called a cleanout cap)
* 1 3 inch to 1 1/2 inch reducing bushing
* 1 BBQ igniter.
* 1 PVC primer can.
* 1 PVC glue can.
If you don’t already own a hacksaw or a drill you need to purchase each one to make a potato gun.
Directions:
1. Cut a 13 inch piece from the 10 foot piece of 3 inch in diameter pipe (This piece will become the combustion chamber). Sit the rest of the 10 foot piece aside.
2. Grab the 3 inch to 1 1/2 inch reducing brushing and glue it to one side of the 13 inch pipe. 3. Glue the 3 inch threaded (only on one side) coupling to the other side of the 13 inch pipe. 4. Cut a 36 inch piece from the 10 foot piece of 1 1/2 inch pipe (This piece will be used as the barrel). Sit the rest of the pipe aside. 5. Glue the 36 inch piece to the other side of the reducing brushing. You should now have a completed gun, except you need to mount the sparker. 6. Drill a hole in the end cap that is the correct size for the sparker. Put some glue around the hole and on the inner edges. Shove the sparker in the hole till the little plastic things click. Put some more glue around the edges of the sparker to make it air tight. 7. Wait overnight until the glue has dried! Remember safety! 8. Make a ramrod from an old broom stick. Put the stick in the barrel and stop when it get close to the bottom, then mark a line at the top of the stick. So now when you load a potato in there, you know when to stop.
Shooting:
1. Put the potato in the end of the barrel 2. Unscrew the end cap and spray some Right Guard deodorant (or any other fuel) down chamber for about 2 seconds. 3. Quickly screw on the end cap. 4. Shove the potato all the way to the end of the barrel 5. Brace yourself for the kick of the gun. 6. Then quickly push the igniter. 7. It should go boom!
the
Fuels to use:
Fuel Type: Description Rating * - **** Hairspray The most basic and commonly used fuel for potato guns (although hair spray doesn’t work very well...). Just open the chamber, spray for a few seconds, screw on the cap, and hit the igniter. ** Carburetor Cleaner Burns fast, which is very good. Works just like hairspray. Just open, spray, close, and ignite. Leaves a terrible stench, though. **** Propane Good fuel! It's just hard to get the right amount. The best mixture is 5% to air. Also propane is heavier than air. *** Alcohol Denatured alcohol appears to work well as a propellant. Use a regular hair spray bottle. There must be a fine mist in order to ignite it. A liquid will not cooperate. *** Butane Butane is a little less common, and appears to be more powerful than propane. I've seen it in the sporting good section. Difficult to get "just the right amount." You can easily put in too much, or too little, and end up not being able to ignite it. *** Aqua Net plus a little something extra!
Take Aqua Net hairspray and spray it into the chamber. Then drop some rubbing alcohol into the chamber. Then roll the chamber around 5 for 6 times. Lastly shoot. *** Aerosol Right Guard Works better than hairspray, WD-40 and Carburetor Cleaner. Just costs a few dollars a can. Leave a nice smell. The best feature of this fuel is it doesn't leave any residue in your gun. ****
Different kinds ammo:
Ammo Description Rating * - **** Potatoes Just cut a thick slice of a potato and push it against the barrel, it will cut it perfectly. Also makes a nice wadding for shooting other things! *** Smoke Bombs Put the smoke bomb in the back of a potato. Take the fuse and put gasoline on it. Then push the potato down into the gun. It a good idea to shorten the fuse so the smoke starts quick.
*** Model Rocket Engines Take the fuse and soak it in gasoline. If you can get it to work this has to be the coolest thing your can shoot out of a potato gun. **** Glow Sticks Looks like military tracer rounds! Try cutting off the end and shooting. Gently drop them in the barrel after your potato with the cut end off. Fire it at night and watch the glowing cloud! *** Spudrok's A Spudrok's is a plastic kinetic rocket usually shot out of a potato gun or similar device using a reusable Plastic Pressure Piston (wad). It's designed to have a "glow stick" attached to the nose and is best shot at night. Both the Spudrok's and the WAD are reusable and will last many repeated uses. For more info check out Spudrok's Homepage. **** Water Put in a spud and pour some water down the barrel. Makes a huge cloud of water *
Tips from other people:
- Have you ever seen those laser pointers? They shoot a red laser beam across rooms up to 300 yards. Well, I happen to have one, so after I built my potato cannon I took the laser pointer and taped it to the barrel. Now I have a laser sight to aim with! Of course, it isn't always accurate (on my cannon the potato
usually hits within a foot of the laser from 40 feet away. It might be more accurate if I had steadier hands, but I don't), but it is fun.
- One important thing to consider when you're making your potato cannon is the barrel length. When I made my first cannon, it's barrel was 5' long (the gun was 2"x4"). When I shot the gun, the potato kinda fell out of the end and rolled 10 feet. I was in shock! I'd seen these things shoot over 200 yards before! So I decided cut off some of the barrel, thinking I could at least shoot it a few more feet. So, after cutting the barrel down to 3 feet, I gave it another shot. The potato rocketed out of the barrel and exploded on my backyard fence. I took it out to a big grass field and it shot about 200 yards. Compared to 10 feet of earlier! So if your potato cannon isn't performing as well as you think it should, try cutting off some of the barrel. It worked for me.
- After a couple of weeks of working with hairspray I have decided that it sucks. I'm going back to butane or carb fluid. Hairspray is really annoying for a couple reasons: it gets the cannon really sticky, it's not as powerful, and when using it there are a lot more misfires where the potato goes about 20 feet. This is because the hairspray either floods the ignitor or because not enough gets in the chamber. What I did to fix this is run a plastic tube from the propellent (hairspray, butane, etc) nozzle to the end of the cannon. I put a valve on the end so that I can open the valve, spray the hairspray, close the valve, and fire. It works well and is much easier than having to unscrew the cap.
- When I made my first potato gun it only went around 20 yards. Trying over and over I found out that if you put the potato in at the top, put the propelent in, then push the potato down with a broom. It compreses and adds more air in with the propelent ,and it gives more of an blast. Instead of 20 yards it flew over 200 yards.
- I have your basic spudgun but have found that there is an optimum barrel length that differs per barrel size, projectile, and fuel used. Since the potato is being forced out by the gases and pressure of the explosion in the chamber, these gases must overcome a certain amount of friction against the potato as its forced out the barrel. The optimum length barrel would theoretically be one that utilizes all the enegy from the blast. Meaning that there is a certain point when the energy is not enough to continue acceleration through the entire barrel and the potato (or projectile) starts to slow down. So you fellow spud blasters may want to experiment with this to maximize the power of your spudzookas also.
- Here is how to make to sparks in your firing chamber: Connect the ground wire to one screw as usual, but connect two screws to the hot wire. This will give you two sparks [see illustration 1].--
Other ammo that people have used:
Here is a list of projectile that I have tried or that visitors have proposed:
Spuds (of course). Basically, the spud is the ultimate projectile because it is heavy and full of water which makes them slide better in the barrel. Cylindrical form ice cubes. It is hard (even impossible) to get perfectly hermetic ice cylinders but an "almost hermetic" ice cube will fly well because of it's weight and shape. I think it must REALLY hurt if you where to be hit. Wet toilet paper. This will not fly as well as spuds but can be used for desperate shooters who don't have any potatoes. Water. This is fun (and refreshing) when shot in the air. Shooting water will cause an impressive back shot for some reason. Limes. These are pretty good because they are aerodynamic and heavy enough to go very far. Use apples, melons and a large fry from McDonalds be sure to leave it in the carton. Proposed by
[email protected] Try shooting corn on the cobb! It's impressive. Proposed by
[email protected]
Use a walnut with the hull ,we shot 1 at least 950 to 1000 yds with a little bit of aquanet these are exelent. Proposed by
[email protected] Walnuts,golf balls,lit m-80s,tennis balls. Proposed by
[email protected] Tape the end of a 12 gram CO2 carterage so that it fits good. stand far away from target. (let the target be hard) it will blow up! make sure you hide behind something. I knocked down a 100ft tree with it using a gas potato gun . Proposed by
[email protected] Use a 2' 1/2" piece of wood dowel with a backer or wadding to fit your barrel. With my pnumatic spud gun i put one through a 3/4" thick sheet of plywood at 50 feet and it keept going. Proposed by
[email protected] A great form of ammo is first a potato, then just trash and anything you can find, it blows it everywhere, also, an arrow through your spud, then it will stick into stuff and you can hunt with it! Proposed by
[email protected] Use eggs because, they are aerodynamic, have weight, and make a large messe. Proposed by
[email protected] Try puting some snow in after the potato.looks really cool. Proposed by
[email protected] I have found that instant mashed pototoes work very well just mix them thick and they are fun for the whole family add some food coloring and you can make some new wave art on a bed sheet. Proposed by
[email protected] Try eggs soaked in vinegar, they will swell up, and fit the barrel very snugly, and will stink up whatever you are shooting at! Proposed by
[email protected] Try using water ballon full of paint put some oil on it and a rag be hind it. It makes a big mess. From
[email protected] Try using kiwis. Proposed by
[email protected] Shove a cloth down the barrel and then a lit smoke bomb. Proposed by
[email protected] Use pomegranates because when they hit a wall they stain. Proposed by
[email protected] I like to stick a bottle of shaving creme in the barrel (only use air power). It explodes and makes a big mess! Proposed by
[email protected] A bottle of mustard works good because when it hits it blows up and makes a total mess !!!!!!!!!! Proposed by
[email protected] In a 2" barrel use a miniture vortex football. It is accurate and flies really good!!! Proposed by
[email protected]
Get as many two piece plasitc easter eggs as possible. Open them and fill both halfs with paint. Put some paper or plastic bags behind as a wad to push it out. It will go like heck and puts a mark on the target the size of a watermelon. by c. williams A good idea is to cut a bit off the end of your barel. You can use this to shape stuff, save getting your gun dirty etc. Also use it to freeze ice. Kicks ass. Proposed by
[email protected] If you put a thin slice of spud in the gun and follow it with about 2-3 cups of flour with a paper towel wadding, it makes cool special effects. (Try shooting it into fire). Proposed by
[email protected] Make a wad to shove down the barrel, then drop a lot of paintballs down the barrel. Proposed by
[email protected] Try glow-sticks, they look like tracer bullets.you can also retrieve them. Proposed by
[email protected] What I found was a good projectile was a Noni plant. It is a green fruit that looks sorta like a potato. On impact, it makes a huge mess and smells worse than rotten eggs soaked in vinegar. Unfortunatly, I think you can only get this fruit in Hawaii. Proposed by
[email protected] The small plastic "sunny delight" bottles (full or course) fit perfectly into the 2"barrel. Proposed by
[email protected] I find using frozen butter to work really well in air powered guns. It also leaves a nice mark on whatever it hits. It hits hard, and flies straight. Proposed by
[email protected] Use a film cannester and fill full of paint. Close the lid and drop it in the gun. Proposed by
[email protected] What I've found to work really good is them small cans of tomato paste. You can also use cans of corn or stewed tomatoes or any other caned vegetable that will fit in the barrel of your gun. Proposed by
[email protected] You can get hackie sacks at the dollar store and in a 2" barrel they fly really good. Proposed by
[email protected] I find that neon light bulbs work well (the long skinny kind they have in schools) the explode with a loud boom on inpact. They fit nicely in a 1 inch pipe. Proposed by
[email protected] Stick sparklers in the end of a spud and watch them fly at night. Proposed by
[email protected] Spudrok's rockets. Check out his web site for more details. It's worth it! Try using an onion, and make the end of your barrel like a knife so it shaves it while it goes down, makes it air tight, which results in more compression longer distance. Proposed by Pete
Take BB’s, ball bearings, screws, nails, bolts, rocks, or any other small hard things and push a bunch of them in the end of a potato before loading it. The only thing is, that sharp metal things may do bad things to the barrel.
13.5 MODEL ROCKETS:
Rockets were first developed by the Chinese several hundred years before Christ. They were used for entertainment, in the form of fireworks. They were not usually used for military purposes because they were inaccurate, expensive, and unpredictable. In modern times, however, rockets are used constantly by the military, since they are cheap, reliable, and have no recoil. Perpetrators of violence, fortunately, cannot obtain military rockets, but they can make or buy rocket engines. Model rocketry is a popular hobby of the space age, and to launch a rocket, an engine is required. Estes, a subsidiary of Damon, is the leading manufacturer of model rockets and rocket engines. Their most powerful engine, the "D" engine, can develop almost 12 lbs. of thrust; enough to send a relatively large explosive charge a significant distance. Other companies, such as Centuri, produce even larger rocket engines, which develop up to 30 lbs. of thrust. These model rocket engines are quite reliable, and are designed to be fired electrically. Most model rocket engines have three basic sections. The diagram below will help explain them.
_________________________________________________________ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard \ clay | - - - - - - - - - -| * * * *| . . . . . |c|
casing
\_______| - - - - - - - - - | * * * *| . . . . .|l| _______ - - - thrust - - - | smoke | eject
|a|
/ clay | - - - - - - - - - -| * * * *| . . . . . |y| /________|____________________|________|_________________ |_________________________________________________________| -- cardboard
casing
The clay nozzle is where the igniter is inserted. When the area labeled "thrust" is ignited, the "thrust" material, usually a large single grain of a propellant such as black powder or pyrodex, burns, forcing large volumes of hot, rapidly expanding gasses out the narrow nozzle, pushing the rocket forward. After the material has been consumed, the smoke section of the engine is ignited. It is usually a slow-burning material, similar to black powder that has had various compounds added to it to produce visible smoke, usually black, white, or yellow in color. This section exists so that the rocket will be seen when it reaches its maximum altitude, or apogee. When it is burned up, it ignites the ejection charge, labeled "eject". The ejection charge is finelypowdered black powder. It burns very rapidly, exploding, in effect. The explosion of the ejection charge pushes out the parachute of the model rocket. It could also be used to ignite the fuse of a bomb...
Rocket engines have their own peculiar labeling system. Typical engine labels are: 1/4A-2T, 1/2A-3T, A8-3, B6-4, C6-7, and D12-5. The letter is an indicator of the power of an engine. "B" engines are twice as powerful as "A" engines, and "C" engines are twice as powerful as "B" engines, and so on. The number following the letter is the approximate thrust of the engine, in pounds. The final number and letter is the time delay, from the time that the thrust period of engine burn ends until the ejection charge fires; "3T" indicates a 3 second delay.
NOTE: an extremely effective rocket propellant can be made by mixing aluminum dust with ammonium perchlorate and a very small amount of iron oxide. The mixture is bound together by an epoxy.
13.6 Home-brew blast cannon:
Materials needed:
·
1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 « inches in diameter.
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1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter.
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1 large lighter, with fluid refills (this gobbles it up!)
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1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the small pipe.
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5 feet of bellwire.
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1 SPST rocker switch.
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16v polaroid pot-a-pulse battery.
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15v relay (get this at Radio Shack).
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Electrical Tape.
·
One free afternoon.
Procedure:
·
Cut the bell wire into three equal pieces, and strip the ends.
· Cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the small pipe. Thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should screw together easily.
·
Take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then attach it to the level on the lighter:
/------------------------gas switch is here V /-----!lighter!!<---metal lever!!
· Now, every time you pull the 'trigger' gas should flow freely from the lighter. You may need to enlarge the 'gas port' on your lighter, if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
·
Connect two wires to the two posts on the switch.
· Cut two holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on the bottom, and one for the metal piece on the top. Then, mount the switch in the bottom, running the wires up and out of the top.
· Mount the lighter/trigger in the top. Now the switch should rock easily, and the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the smaller tube into the larger one, hold down the trigger a bit, let it go, and throw a match in there. If all goes well, you should hear a nice big 'THUD!'
·
Get a hold of the relay, and take off the top.
1--------------v/ 2--------------/<--the center object is the metal finger inside the relay 3 cc-------------/ oo----------------4 ii ll----------------5
· Connect (1) to one of the wires coming from the switch. Connect (2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery. Connect the remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery. Now you should be able to get the relay to make a little 'buzzing' sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little sparks.
· Now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe, towards the back. Screw on the smaller pipe, tape the battery to the side of the cannon barrel (yes, but looks aren't everything!)
·
You should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and set it off by flipping the switch.
· Put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You are now ready for the first trialrun!
To Test:
Put something very, very large into the barrel, just so that it fits 'just right'. Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you on your ass if you aren't careful!). Put on a shoulderpad, earmuffs, and possibly some other protective clothing. Hold the trigger down for 30 seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through a piece of plywood at 25 feet.
14.0 The End:
I would like to credit and thank the many web sites and sources of the information in this application: “Roguesci.org”, “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, “Modern Pyrotechnics” and all the other people and publications that I did not mention; as many scientific, pyrotechnic, and other websites were my sources. Go to some of the link in this text, or go to the ‘extras’ file in this folder, for more information on chemicals and explosives.
