SKAVEN WATCHTOWER During a period in Dwarf history known as the Time of Woes, many of their great works were cast down and destroyed. Taking advantage of this catastrophe, the insidious Skaven became a growing menace to the Dwarf nations. They swarmed through the Dwarf realms, the Skaven slaughtering the Dwarfs in horrible, one-sided conflicts. Now the Children of the Horned Rat infest the remnants of these great halls, the Skaven building strange contraptions and broiling-forth from these fetid holes in times of war. This Skaven Watchtower is a perfect addition to your collection of scenery, especially if you're currently participating in a Denizens of the Deep campaign! STAGE 1: The Basic Column
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Cut out a large, circular piece of Masonite. It can be as large are you like, but I suggest that it should measure approximately 10" in diameter. Sand down the edges of the Masonite at 90-degree angles. A belt sander will make this step painless and quick, but if you don't have one on hand, a large file and some sandpaper will do the trick.
Cut three sections of 1" thick insulation foam with a sharp, retractable box cutter. These sections should measure 3" wide and approximately 15" tall. Glue all the foam sections together with a hot glue gun and set the assembled, rough column aside to dry (it should only take a minute or 2 for a strong bond to form). Sand down the rough edges of the assembled column with a belt sander (if you're lucky enough to have one) or a sanding block. Make sure that the bottom of the column is flat and at a right angle to the side of your column so that it doesn't appear lopsided when glued to the base. Sanding may take as much as 1/8" off of the 3" wide foam column.
STAGE 2: Creating the Beveled Edge
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The beveled edge on this column starts 5" up the side of the foam. Download this template and print it out. Transfer it to a piece of rigid cardboard and cut it out. Bend the cardboard template exactly in half. Scoring (a technique that uses a knife blade to slice a gentle line across a piece of cardboard without actually cutting the cardboard into two separate pieces) will make the cardboard template much easier to bend. Place the cardboard template over the corner of the assembled column with the pointed end facing the base of the column. Trace its outline onto the foam with a felt-tipped pen or a pencil. Continue the tracing of the template up the entire column and repeat the process on all four sides. STAGE 3: Cutting out the Beveled Edges
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Once all of the tracing has been finished, start cutting out the beveled edges from the column. Take the retractable box cutter again and cut out the beveled points (near the base of the column) by following the guide lines. This step will help you avoid slipping and cutting too far in Step 2. Now that the points are done, carve out the beveled edges from the top towards the pointed areas you just removed. Cut all the way down to the guide lines that you made with the cardboard template. To keep the line straight, make sure to cut inside of the guides rather than outside. Patience and a steady hand win the day! Don't cut too quickly or you may damage the foam. Once you have carved out the beveled edges, use a fine piece of sandpaper to smooth out any nicks or rough spots.
STAGE 4: Creating the Column Base
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As stated above in The Basic Column, sanding the foam will reduce the
width of the column. Take measurements and keep these in mind when you download the template and follow the steps below.
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You're going to construct the base of the column out of foamcore so it stands 2" high against the side of the column. Download this template, print it out, and transfer it to a piece of foamcore by pushing small holes through the printed template and into the foamcore beneath it with a thumbtack. Connect the punctures on the foamcore with a pen or pencil and cut the rectangles free with a sharp X-Acto knife. Take two of the four foamcore pieces and put the others aside for now. Take a pencil or pen and measure-in 5 mm on each side of both column base pieces.
Now, very carefully, use an X-Acto knife with a brand new blade to cut almost all the way through the foamcore. The best way to accomplish this step is to do the following: A. Gently cut through the paper side of the foamcore that's facing toward you. This cut will reveal the foam in the center. B. Next, cut through the foam with light passes to avoid hitting the paper on the backside. It doesn't take much pressure to cut the foam. Using too much will easily cut the paper backing. This process takes a bit of practice. Try this technique on a spare piece of foamcore before you try it for real! C. Carefully insert the knife into the previously made cut in the foamcore and pull the flat of the blade away from the mass that you want to keep. It may require you to work up the length of the foamcore to remove foam as you go.
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The final product should look something like this (see the center image above), with a large rectangle of foamcore that has a paper "lip."
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Once you have cut both of the side panels for the column base, you can assemble the base. With one side panel in hand, fill both of the cuts with wood glue and press both together. Repeat this process for the other corner of the column. Once the sides with the lips are on, glue on the other two panels. Finally, spread glue on the inside of the base and slide the foam column into the base. Clean up any extra glue that leaks out. Let the whole column base dry before moving on to the next stage. STAGE 5: The Column Base Decoration
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You will make the decoration on the base of the column out of foamcore as well. Download this template, print it out, and transfer it to a piece of foamcore by pushing small holes through the printed template and into the foamcore beneath it with a thumbtack. Connect the resulting punctures on the foamcore with a pen or pencil and cut all the shapes free with a sharp X-Acto knife. Glue these shapes to the side of the column base with wood glue as shown in the picture and repeat this process three more times to complete the column. With smooth joins (such as the foamcore-to-foamcore bond that you need here), scoring each side with an X-Acto knife allows the glue to grip both surfaces and forms a stronger bond. You can easily do this scoring by dragging the point of the blade across the smooth surface to rough it up.
STAGE 6: Detailing the Column To create the look of age, stress, and damage, the column must be broken up a bit. To accomplish this, cut up the assembled column and then reassemble it so a large portion of it lies on the Masonite base. See the steps below for instructions on wrecking things like I did.
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Starting on one side of the top of the column, measure down 4" and make a mark on this side. Now, directly opposite of this mark, make another mark, but make it 3"down instead of 4". Once both marks are on the foam, connect these lines with two more guides on the remaining sides. This line is your guide to gauge the cut you need to make to separate the topmost section from the rest of the piece. Now, measure down 8" from the top and make another guide. This guide will help you make the slightly diagonal cut where the column has broken but not separated (i.e., a simple fracture). Your cut will separate the sections, but you will glue them back together to get the look of a fracture.
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Time to start cutting! Take the retractable box cutter and cut along the topmost guide and separate this chunk of foam from the rest of the column. Follow the guides on the second mark with the box cutter and cut the column down again, though the cut should be at a slight diagonal to the guide. Now there are three sections to deal with. You can damage the "top" section as you see fit. Carve off large chunks of foam to get a jagged appearance. Also, use the point of the knife (please be careful, wear eye protection!) to pop and gouge large pieces out of the section's central mass. Put the top section aside for now – it will become part of the base later. It's a little trickier to get the remaining two sections to look like they have fractured in a natural fashion. Use the techniques above to create a shattered appearance, but each half should resemble the other enough so they look like parts of the same column. Don't stress out too much, though. The eons could have worn away the similarities a little bit. Gouge up the corners and edges where these two piece meet just like before, but DO NOT detail the flat inside areas of the foam. These areas must be left smooth so that the two sections can be reassembled.
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Apply white glue to the flat top of the shattered column. Glue both sections of the column together. However, the sections should be slightly askew so they look like they are on either side of a fracture. Once everything has dried completely, ding up the rest of the column with small cracks and gouges by using a sharp X-Acto knife (again, be careful). STAGE 7: Detailing the Scenic Base
Now is your opportunity to show the detritus that results from ages of abuse and neglect!
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Glue the base of the column to the Masonite, and you should keep in mind that you will need room for the fallen section of column. Use either wood glue or a hot glue gun to assemble the parts. Now, glue the fallen section to the base in a manner that suits you. With a bit of foam and the box cutter, create a few small dunes or rounded "hills." Glue these about the Masonite and up against the column (trim the dunes so they fit). With a chunk of extra foam in hand, cut off small chunks to create rubble and shards of stone. You can make them of varying sizes. Glue these chunks down to the base as well. If you like, you can add pieces of pine bark to resemble uncarved stone. Although this step does not actually have much to do with detailing the base, it is still a good idea fill in any gaps in the foam with quick-drying spackling at this stage. Use a scrap piece of plasticard to apply the spackling.
The Rickety Scaffolding This next group of steps will help you transform your dilapidated Dwarf column into a bit of Skaven scenery. You'll have to use your best judgment in this phase of construction – there is no template for the scaffolding, but I did include measurements when we could. However, if you feel lost, look to the color section of Warhammer Armies: Skaven (p. 63) or the images in this article for inspiration and guidance. STAGE 8: Getting Started
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(Pictured above left) With an X-Acto knife, cut 1/2"x1/2" thick strips of balsa wood into eight pieces at about 6" long each. These planks will form the horizontal beams. Put them aside for now (if these beams are not exact, don't worry – it only adds to the general broken-down look of the scenery). (Pictured above right) Now, cut four 1/2"x1/2" thick strips of balsa wood to a length of 4 3/4". These four pieces will form the vertical struts at the four corners of the scaffolding. Next, cut thinner pieces of balsa wood, thick cardboard, or plasticard (you can use one, two, or all three materials – in fact, using all three makes the overall appearance much more haphazard!) to serve as anchors for braces that will be placed inside of the scaffolding and against the column. Finally, make sure you have more 1/2"x1/2" thick strips of balsa wood on hand to create braces and thinner balsa wood or popsicle sticks to make planking for a walkway, ladders, and other assorted madness. You're going to need all of these materials. STAGE 9: Assembling the Scaffolding
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Start with the frame of the scaffolding. Create two "rings" using the eight pieces of 6" long balsa wood. On four of the eight, cut an L-shaped groove into each end. The resulting tab can now be laid on top of one of the uncut pieces of balsa wood. Test the fit for each piece. Once you are satisfied, glue all of the pieces together with wood or white glue and set the two rings aside to dry. Once everything has dried thoroughly, glue each of the eight 4 3/4" pieces at right angles to the two assembled "rings." You should put four on the bottom and four in the middle with the top ring on top, just like the steel frame on a building. Glue the entire scaffolding to the Masonite base so it encircles the column. If the legs of the scaffolding are uneven or rest on top of any foam dunes or rocks, cut the balsa wood to fit or measure and gouge out squares of foam so that the legs can sit on the base.
Finally, add all sorts of random beams and braces to the scaffolding and column (balsa wood works great for wood braces and card with rivets would make great rusted metal braces). In short, use your best judgment and imagination. Below, you'll see some examples of different types of braces and the two materials I used.
Dip string or twine into watered-down wood or white glue and wrap it around a few joints to create a bundled knot. Paint on more glue once the string has started to dry to create a rock-hard join. Create rivets by slicing up a small plastic rod (square or circular is up to you). Glue these rivets on with superglue so they look as though long metal spikes have been driven into the wood to hold it together. Add thin pieces of balsa wood or popsicle sticks to create planks and walkways for your models. Also, assemble ladders from spare balsa wood and glue them in place now.
STAGE 10: Building The Bell The body of the bell was created using the following materials: • 1 45-mm tin bell from a craft store • 1 emptied and cleaned yogurt cup • Plasticard • 1 Screaming Bell Holder bit Screaming Bell Holder 020605903
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To allow the metal bell to lie flat on the bottom of the yogurt cup, you will need to cut out a circular piece of plasticard with a diameter measuring 2" (or whatever will fit your yogurt cup). Trace out the shape on a sheet of plasticard with a pencil and then score a line along this outline with an X-Acto knife.
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Next, cut four lines going out from the edges of the circle. These cuts will allow you to breakout the circle much more easily in the next step.
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Now, bend the plasticard until the plasticard weakens along the scored lines. The circle will break free. Once the circle is free, you may need to clean up the edges with an X-Acto knife. Glue the finished circle to the bottom of the yogurt cup with superglue. Let this dry so it forms a solid bond.
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Next, glue the small metal bell to the plasticard circle on the upturned cup. Again, wait for the bond to dry completely.
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Next, glue another, smaller disk of plasticard (measuring approximately 3/4") to the top of the metal bell.
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Then, clip off the lower portion of the Skaven Screaming Bell bit (3/16" up from the bottom) and glue it to the plasticard-topped portion of the bell.
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Glue thin strips of plasticard (about 1/4" thick) around the circumference of the bell to make bands. To reinforce where the strip meets, glue a short length of plasticard over the gap.
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Plastic rod was cut into pieces and glued to the plasticard bands to simulate rivets. Mark where the rivets will be placed with pencil before you glue the rivets onto the bands. Try to keep them as evenly spaced as possible.
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Cut out a Skaven symbol from card and glue it to the side of the bell. Add spare strips of plasticard and plastic rivets to the bell for added realism. In the end, this is your Skaven Bell. You can make it as intricate as you like – it is the focus of the piece of scenery, after all. STAGE 11: Assembling the Bell Arm
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Cut two thick pieces of balsa wood into two long arms (both should measure 12" long, 5/8" high, and 5/16" deep). With an X-Acto knife, cut a U-shaped notch into each of the four arms' ends. Each of these notches should be 7/16" deep and 5/16" wide. Now, you need to make two crossbeams to fit into the notches in the arms. Again, use an X-Acto knife and cut two pieces of balsa wood to a height and width of 5/16" and 3 1/2".
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Glue both crossbeams into the U-shaped notches with white glue and allow the whole thing to dry.
Cut out a piece of balsa wood that measures 7/8" tall, 3 7/8" long, and 5/16" deep. Draw the pattern shown in the pictures above. The areas keyed in red use the following measurements: 1. 4/16" wide 2. 3/8" wide
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3. 5/8" wide 4. 7/8" wide
Cut out all the shaded areas as marked in Step 4. Keyed Area #2 is the weakest point in the balsa wood, so take care when you cut this part free. Once you have cut out both of these parts, you'll need to give each a small notch in order to hold the actual body of the bell. These notches should each measure about 1/8" wide, 2/8" tall, and 3/16" deep.
Measure in 1" on each of the long beams that form the bell arm. Make a mark at this point with a pen. These marks indicate where you will glue the two small notched arms (just past the 1" mark). Measure and cut a thin piece of 5/16"x5/16" balsa wood to a length of 3 5/16". This beam will help support the weight of the bell. Now, glue the assembled long arms; the small, notched bell support arms; and the cross beam with white glue as shown in the image above.
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Next, cut out a piece of balsa wood that measures 1 1/4" wide, 5/16" tall, and 8 7/16" long. Use a pen to divide the strip of balsa in half lengthwise. Then, with an X-Acto knife, cut along that line. With an X-Acto knife, cut out the notches as show in the middle image above. The notch on the right is 5/16" wide and 13/16" long on the top side and 10/16" on the bottom. You must make an angled cut into the center of the balsa wood. On the opposite end of the strip of balsa wood, make a notch as show on the left. Cut a 90-degree angle into the end. The top of this bevel should start in 1/8" further than the bottom.
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Mark where the long arm supports will go when everything is assembled. The pen marks should be placed 1" away from the small bell support arms as shown in the photo above.
Cut a strip of balsa wood that measures 5/8" wide by 3 6/8" long into two smaller pieces that measures 1 7/8" long. Give both a gouge 6/8" down from the top of each small brace. The depth of the gouge is up to you – it needs to be deep or shallow enough to compensate for the bell arm's width and the placement of the column. Glue both small braces to the sides of the rock column and add the wood planks with white glue. Make sure that 90-degree angles are maintained until the supports dry in place. Allow these to dry thoroughly before moving on to Step 15. Now, with the long braces attached – but not glued into position on the bell arm – glue the bottom "feet" of the long braces to the first tier with white glue. Put something on top of the bell arm to keep it balanced and in position until the glue dries.
NOTE: DO NOT glue the bell arm to the short braces attached to the rock column or to the long braces near the small bell support arms. If you do, there will be no way to get the bell in place later as the bell must be painted separately.
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Next, make a platform and a ladder for Skaven sentries to stand on while they ring the bell. Cut a 5/16"x5/16" piece of balsa wood into two 2 1/2" long strips and glue them straight out from the long braces about 2" up. Attach planks to the platform supports as you did with the rest of the scaffolding. Now, using white glue, glue ladder rungs to the inside of the long braces. Once you're finished, continue to add plastic rod bitz to the new areas of the watchtower to represent rivets and iron spikes. Also, nick-up all of the wooden beams with an X-Acto knife to make everything appear a bit more dilapidated. STAGE 12: Finishing Off the Scenic Base
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Paint the entire base with slightly thinned-down wood glue. Sprinkle large stones and sand over the glue and let it dry thoroughly. Once the glue has dried, tip the entire piece upside down over a box top or bucket and tap the underside of the base. This action will collect any extra basing material in the box top so you can use it for your next scenery project. If you're looking to add an extra level of detail, add straw nesting material around the base after the entire piece of scenery has been painted. Cut bristles from a cheap broom or brush and mix them in a container with slightly diluted white glue. Place this mixture on the base and scaffolding in thick clumps and leave it to dry overnight.
Column, Scaffolding, and Base First, hand-paint the exposed sections of foam with Chaos Black paint (this seals it to keep the foam from melting from spray paint). Then, prime the entire piece with Chaos Black Spray Primer. Rusted Metal Braces and Rivets Column, Rocks, and Patches of Debris
Drybrush areas of exposed stone with a heavy layer of Dark Flesh, followed by Codex Grey – make sure you allow the Dark Flesh to show through a bit. Lightly drybrush with Fortress Grey. Finally, drybrush the stone with a very light coat of Skull White.
Touch-up the areas that will show rusted metal with Chaos Black. Then, heavily drybrush the areas with Dark Flesh, followed by Blood Red and a light drybrushing of Fiery Orange.
Wooded Beams, Braces, and Planks Rust Marks on Stone
Apply rust marks to the stone by drybrushing straight down from the source of the rust mark. Drybrush the first layer with Dark Flesh, followed by Blood Red and a final coat of Fiery Orange.
Touch-up wooden areas with Chaos Black if needed. Heavily drybrush these areas with Scorched Brown followed by Dark Flesh, Bestial Brown, and Snakebite Leather. Lightly drybrush Kommando Khaki to finish the areas. The Bell
Rope
Retouch the rope with Chaos Black and then basecoat it with Snakebite Leather. Highlight with Bleached Bone and you're done.
Paint the bell with successive layers of metallic paint over a Chaos Black undercoat. Start with Tin Bitz, move on to Brazen Brass, and finish with Dwarf Bronze. Apply Green and Brown Inks to make the bell appear corroded.
Final Assembly Once all the paint has dried, seat the bell in the notches and allow it to swing freely (don't glue it in!). Glue the bell arm in place with white glue on both the long braces and the small ones connected to the rock column.
