Shoe Lasting and Finishing

NITTTR, Chennai – 600 113.

SKILL DEVELOPMENT CURRICULUM

1.

Sector

: Leather and Leather Goods

2.

Name and Code No. of the Trade

:

3.

Level

: II

4.

Duration in hours

: 6 months/ 24 weeks/ 96 960 hours

5.

Entr Entry y Qual Qualif ific icat atio ion/ n/ Elig Eligib ibil ilit ity y for for admission

: 10th Standard Pass + ITI Pass in the trade: Fitter or Millwright Fitter

Shoe Lasting and Finishing

Age: 16+ 16+ and below below 35 years years 6.

Employment opportunities

: Wage employment as- Last Lastin ing g & Fini Finish shin ing g Oper Operat ator ors s - Supe Superv rvis isor or in in Shoe Shoe Pro Produ duct ctio ion n Unit Units s -

7.

Job/ Trade Profile

:

•

•

• •

•

•

Page 1 of 23

Perform alignment of various components on lasting machines Perform alignment of various components on bottom machines Perform manual lasting operations Perform operations on lasting machines Perform different types of shoe construction Perform various shoe finishing operations

8.

Modu Module les s of Stud tudy and Time ime allocation

:

Trade: Module No. 1. 2

Time (in Hours) Theory Practical Total

Title of the Module Tools, Materials & Accessories for Shoe Lasting and Finishing 48 Machines & Equipments for Shoe Lasting and Finishing 40

72

112

152

32

40

232

272

3

Practice on on ha hand la lasting me methods

4.

Practice on Lasting machines

5

Practice on various types of shoe construction 120

160

280

6

Practice on shoe finishing operations

56

80

7

Quality Control measures in shoe lasting and finishing 24

40

24

32

Consolidation and Evaluation Total 312

9.

24

Content details of each module

10. 10. Guide Guidelin lines es for for asses assessm sment ent and and certification

24

32

648

960

: Refer Appendices 1 to 7 : (i) Mode of Assessment (A) Trade Test (Practical (Practical Exam) Exam) Weightage 70% (B) Written Test – Weightage Weightage 15% (C) Viva (oral (oral exam) exam) – Weightage Weightage 15% (ii) In conduc conducting ting the the trade trade test test & viva viva an industrial expert should be involved. (iii) No. of Trade Tests – 3 1) Lasti Lasting ng of sho shoe e uppe upperr Weightage 30% 2) Shoe Shoe const construct ruction ion – Weight Weightage age 30% 3) Finishin Finishing g and and Qualit Quality y assura assurance nce of final shoe – Weightage 10%

Page 2 of 23

(iv) No. of Written tests – 2 (Weightage for each test – 7.5%) (v) No. of viva – 2 (Weightage for each viva – 7.5%) 11. Resource requirements

:

The following resources will be required for training a batch of 20 trainees.

Page 3 of 23

LIST OF MACHINES Sl.No

Name of machine with specification details 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20.

Toe Puff Attaching Machine Counter Moulding Machine Mulling Machine

Quantity 1 1 1

Toe lasting Machine

1

Heel seat lasting machine Moccasin Preforming machine Heat Setting Machine

1 1 1

Pounding Machine

1

Wire brush roughing Machine Hot Air Blower or Wrinkle chaser I R Sole activator

2 1 1

Sole Attaching Press

1

Sole Stitching Machine

1

Spray Booth

1

Mog iron rod

5

Brushing and Polishing Machine Insole Moulding Machine Soldering stick /Thread Burner Air Compressor (10 hp) Bench grinding machine Motor : 0.25HP

Page 4 of 23

2 1 20 1 1

TOOLS & ACCESSORIES S.No.

Item

Quantity

1.

Cuddapa Stone 1 ½’x1’x 1” thick

22 nos.

2.

Hammer

25 nos.

3.

Lasting Pincers

25nos.

4.

S.S.Scale 1’

25 nos.

5.

S.S.Scale 2’

25 nos.

6.

S.S.Scale 1/2’

25 nos.

7.

H.S.S. hacksaw blade1’x1/2”

25 nos.

8.

Knife holder ½”

25 nos.

9.

Oil stone

25 nos.

10.

Thread trimmer

25nos.

11.

Nail puller

25 No

12.

Pasting brushes

25 nos.

13.

Bone folders

25 nos.

14.

Adhesive can plastic

25 nos.

15.

Scissor 8”

25 nos.

16.

Cutting plier

5 nos.

17.

Screw driver

6 nos.

18.

Shoe sizing tape

19.

Shoe Last (Plastic) Size: 8 & 9 •

25 nos.

Slidometric hinge type

•

Solid block type

•

Scoop last

•

200 pairs -- 120 pairs for gents (3 styles and 2 sizes with 20 pairs of each) -- 80 pairs for ladies (2 Styles and 2 sizes with 20 pairs each) -- 2 pairs each

Telescopic last

•

Last with heel plate

•

Last with half plate

•

Last with full plate

FURNITURE

Page 5 of 23

S.No.

Item

Quanti t y

1.

Lasting tables with lasting jacks four in one

5 nos.

2.

Wooden tables for finishing operations

5 nos.

3.

Last storage bins

12 nos.

4.

Instructor table

3 nos.

5.

Instructor chair

3 nos.

6.

Class room white boards

2 nos.

7.

Pigeon hole cupboards for students

3 nos.

8.

Cupboards for raw material storage

5 nos.

9.

Steel racks for raw material storage

5 nos.

10.

Cupboards for finished goods storage

2 nos.

CONSUMABLES Leather & Non Leather S.No .

Item

1.

Leather Uppers Open footwear - 4 Models

200 (20 Pairs in

Close footwear - 6 Models

each model)

2.

Leather bare straps

Quantity

200 Pairs

( for basic lasting practice) 3.

Leather and synthetic vamp cut components ( for basic lasting practice)

Each 100 Pairs

4.

In soles boards (cellulose)

30 sheets

5.

Leather boards

30 sheets

6.

Foot beds

60 pairs

7.

Synthetic soles PVC, TPR,PU

50 Pairs Each

8.

Sole rubber sheets

9.

Shank

10.

Shank board

30 No 250 pairs 5 nos.

Page 6 of 23

11.

Eva Foam sheets (insock)

12 nos.

12.

Moccasin thread

5 cones

13.

Sole stitching thread

5 cones

Page 7 of 23

GRINDERIES S.No.

Item Quantit y

1.

Rubber solution – 5 litre tin

5 nos.

2.

Neoprene adhesive 5 Lit Tin

10 nos.

3.

PU Adhesive 5Lit

4.

Hot melt adhesive(poly amide & Poly ester)

5.

primers

10 lrs.

6.

Shoe creams

2 kgs

7.

Shoe polishes

2 kgs

8.

Refreshers

2 lrs

9.

Waxes

10.

hardeners

1 kg

11.

Rubber latex solution 5Lit

5No

12.

Singer oil 3/1- 5 Lit

2 nos.

13.

Crepe rubber

5 sq. ft

14.

Silver refill

20 nos.

15.

Marking chalk

5 boxes

16.

Nails assorted

5 kgs

17.

Micro tacks

10 No 3 rolls each

6 bars

10 boxes

SPACE REQUIREMENT S.No. 1.

Item Raw material storage room

2.

Training hall

3.

Finished goods storage room

Page 8 of 23

Size 500 sft 4000 sft 500 sft

BOOKS/ INSTRUCTIONAL RESOURCES

1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) ”Introduction to the Principle of leather Manufacture” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 2. S.S.Dutta, (1980) ” Physical Testing Of Leather” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 3. R.G.Miller, (1989) ”Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd. 4. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), ”Comprehensive Footwear Technology’Kolkatta.Indian Leather Technologist Association. 5. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), ”Introduction to modern footwear technology” Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS 6. J.H.Thornton, (1970), ”Text book of footwear manufacture” London. -National Trade Press Ltd. 7. NL, “Footwear Materials and process Technology”, Newzealand-Leather and Shoe research Association. 8. Gillibrand ,J.(1969) Coated fabrics and shoe industry, J of BBSI 9. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture. Publication of Indian Leather,,Chennai. 10.U.S Paul, Literature on Shoe Lasts, M/S Foot Form. 11.G.A Charistie (1973)”Simplified Lasting Systems”.J.BBSI. 12.Steve cross. (1995) “Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories” SATRA. 13.Venkatappaiah.B.(1994) “Adhesives in Shoe Manufacture”. Publication of CLRI Chennai. 14. Venkatappaiah.B.(1993)” Shoe Finishes”. Publication of CLRI Chennai. 15. Manual (1973)”Simplified lasting system-String lasting”J.BBSI. 16. Mark Southam (1994)”Force and String lasting” SATRA.U K

12. Any other information/ guidelines for implementation

: 1. Factory visits to atleast three factories manufacturing Full shoes should be arranged. 2. Focus should be on providing adequate practice for developing the skill, teaching related theory to the required extent.

Appendix I Page 9 of 23

Module - 1

1. Title of the Module

:

2. Module Competencies

: On completion of the Module the trainee will be able to:

Tools, Materials & Accessories for Shoe Lasting and Finishing

(1) Specify the function of each tool (2) Select the appropriate tool for a given job (3) Specify the function of materials and accessories required for shoe making (4) Select the appropriate materials & accessories for a given job 3. Knowledge components (Theory)

:

•

•

•

•

•

4. Practical Skills

Tools required for shoe making Materials & their physical properties - Toe puff - Counter stiffeners - In-soles - Shank - Out soles - Heels Classification of Last - Solid block - Slidometric hinge last - Scoop last - Telescopic last Different types of Adhesives - Rubber based - Solvent based - Water based Accessories required for shoe making - Tacks & Nails - Shoe Lace - Shoe finishes Wax o Cleaners and Refreshers o

: Practice in choosing appropriate (i) Last for a specific style (ii) Tools for a specific job (iii) Materials for a given purpose (iv)Accessories for a specific job

5. Instructional Hours

: Page 10 of 23



Theory

: 48 hours



Practical

: 24 hours

6. Performance criteria for assessment

: Selection of appropriate (i) Last, (ii) Tool, (iii) Material and (iv) Accessories for a given job.

7. Reference materials

: 1. S.S. Dutta, (1980) “Introduction to the Principle of leather Manufacture” Kolkatta.Indian Leather Technologist Association. 2. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), ”Introduction to modern footwear technology” Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS. 3. Gillibrand, J.(1969) Coated fabrics and shoe industry, J of BBSI. 4. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) Polymers in Footwear Manufacture. Publication of Indian Leather, Chennai.

“

Page 11 of 23

Appendix – II Module - 2


:


: On completion of the Module the trainee will be able to acquire the skills of operating the following shoe making machines:

3. Knowledge components (Theory)

4. Practical Skills

Machines & Equipments for Shoe Lasting and Finishing

-

Toe puff attaching

-

Counter moulding

-

Mulling

-

Toe lasting

-

Side and seat lasting

-

Bottom roughing

-

Sole attachment

-

Sole stitching

-

Brushing and polishing

: Working principles of the following shoe making machines - Toe puff attaching -

Counter moulding

-

Mulling

-

Toe lasting

-


-

Bottom roughing

-

Heat reactivation

-

Sole attachment

-

Sole stitching

-


: Practice on operating the following machines: - Toe puff attaching -

Counter moulding

-

Mulling

-

Toe lasting

-


-

Bottom roughing

-

Heat reactivation

-

Sole attachment

-

Sole stitching

-


Page 12 of 23

5. Instructional Hours  Theory 

Practical


: : 40 hours : 112 hours :

1. Skills of operating the machines 2. Speed of operating the machines 3. Adopting safety precautions


:

1. G.A Charistie (1973)”Simplified Systems”.J.BBSI.

Lasting

2. Steve cross. (1995) “Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories” SATRA. UK

Page 13 of 23

Appendix – III Module - 3


:


: On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to perform the following lasting operations: - Insole attachment - Barestrap lasting - Vamp lasting - Fullstrap lasting - Toe puff attachment - Counter moulding - Shoe upper lasting - Roughing operations


:

Practice on hand lasting methods

• • •

• • •

4. Practical Skills

5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical 6. Performance criteria for assessment

Insole attachment techniques Toe puff attaching methods Counter stiffener attachment & moulding Drafting principles Pulling over concepts Importance of Roughing methods

: Practice on - Insole attachment - Barestrap lasting - Vamp lasting - Fullstrap lasting - Toe puff attachment - Counter stiffener attachment & moulding - Shoe upper lasting - Roughing operations

8 hours : : 32 hours : Accuracy and Speed of performing the following operations : - toe puff attaching - counter moulding - insole attaching - hand lasting - roughing Page 14 of 23


:

1. S.S.Dutta, (1980) “Physical Testing Of Leather” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 2. R.G.Miller, (1989) “Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd. 3. Somenath Ganguly, 2005, “Comprehensive Footwear Technology” Kolkatta. - Indian Leather Technologist Association. 4. G.A Charistie (1973) Lasting Systems”.J.BBSI.

Page 15 of 23

“Simplified

Appendix – IV Module - 4


:


: On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to


:

Practice on Lasting machines

•

•

•

4. Practical Skills

:

•

•

•



Perform the insole attachments



Perform the operations in: - Toe lasting machines - Seat lasting machines - Side lasting machines - Combined lasting machines



Prepare the lasted shoe upper

Classification of insoles - Built insole - Extended insole - Insole with rib - Insole with runner Various types of lasting machines - Toe lasting - Seat lasting - Side lasting - Combined seat and side lasting Various types of lasting techniques - Cement lasting - String lasting - Force lasting Practice on attaching insoles Practice on the following lasting machines - Toe lasting machines - Seat lasting machines - Side lasting machines - Combined lasting machines Preparing the lasted shoe upper

5. Instructional Hours Theory Practical

: 40 hours : 232 hours Page 16 of 23


: 1) Accuracy and Speed of performing the following operations: - Toe lasting machines - Seat lasting machines - Side lasting machines - Combined lasting machines 2) Quality of the lasted shoe upper


:

1. R.G.Miller, (1989) “Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd. 2. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), “Comprehensive Footwear Technology” Kolkatta. - Indian Leather Technologist Association. 3. G.A Charistie (1973) Lasting Systems”.J.BBSI.

“Simplified

4. S.S.Dutta, (1980) “Physical Testing Of Leather” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 5. Manual (1973) “Simplified system-String lasting” J.BBSI.

lasting

6. Mark Southam (1994) “Force and String lasting” SATRA.U K

Page 17 of 23

Appendix – V Module - 5


:


: On completion of the Module, the trainee will be able to perform the following:

Practice on various types of shoe construction



Conditioning of Lasted upper -



Conditioning of Soles -




:

•

Shoe -

-

4. Practical Skills

constructions: Cemented Moccasin Veldtschoen Welted Moulded

Pounding Bottom roughing

Conditioning of Soles -

•

Roughening Halogenation

Conditioning of Lasted upper -

•

Pounding Bottom roughing

Roughening Halogenation

Various construction techniques - Cemented - Moccasin - Veldtschoen - Welted - Moulded

: Practice on the following operations: •

•

Conditioning of Lasted upper - Pounding - Bottom roughing Conditioning of Soles - Roughening - Halogenation

Page 18 of 23

•

Construction techniques such as: - Cemented - Moccasin - Sewn

5. Instructional Hours Theory

: 120 hours

Practical

: 160 hours


:

1) Accuracy, quality and speed in conditioning of lasted upper and soles 2) Accuracy and speed in performing the following construction techniques: - Cemented - Moccasin - Sewn


:

1. Steve cross. (1995) “Heat setting in Modern Shoe factories” SATRA.UK 2. Venkatappaiah.B. (1994) “Adhesives in Shoe Manufacture”. Publication of CLRI Chennai.

Page 19 of 23

Appendix – VI Module - 6


:


: On completion of the Module, the trainee will be able to

Practice on shoe finishing operations

1) Perform the various techniques of shoe finishing 2) Select the shoe finishes for various upper materials of shoe 3) Select the shoe finishes for various soles of shoe 3. Knowledge components (Theory)

: 1) Various unit operations in shoe upper finishing:  Cleaning  Hot air treeing  Shoe upper dressing  Attachment of accessories  Sole branding 2) Various unit operations in shoe bottom finishing:  Heel pairing  Heel Scouring  Edge pairing  Stain heels  Bottom polish  Heel burnish 3) Various types of shoe finishing materials required for different types of shoe uppers

4. Practical Skills

: Practice on the following operations: 1) Various unit operations in shoe upper finishing:  Cleaning  Hot air treeing  Shoe upper dressing  Attachment of accessories  Sole branding Page 20 of 23

2) Various unit operations in shoe bottom finishing:  Heel pairing  Heel Scouring  Edge pairing  Stain heels  Bottom polish  Heel burnish 3) Identifying the shoe finishing materials required for different types of shoe uppers 5. Instructional Hours Theory

: 24 hours

Practical

: 56 hours


: 1) Accuracy, quality and speed in shoe upper finishing operations 2) Accuracy, quality and speed in shoe bottom finishing operations 3) Quality of the finished shoe


: 1. Venkatappaiah.B.(1993) “Shoe Finishes” - Publication of CLRI Chennai. 2. Ganga Radakrishnan,(1993) “Polymers in Footwear Manufacture” - Publication of Indian Leather, Chennai..

Page 21 of 23

Appendix – VII Module - 7 Quality Control measures in shoe lasting and finishing


:


: On completion of the module, the trainee will be able to:


:

-

Understand the principles of quality management

-

Understand the acceptable quality standards for full shoe

-

Understand the process of material handling for full shoe

-

Principles of quality management Quality parameters of full shoe In-process quality control for full shoe Conveyor systems

-

4. Practical Skills

•

Linear

•

Modular

Material handling system in full shoe making Familiarization with quality standards of branded shoes

: Practice on •

•

quality parameters of full shoe - color matching - grain matching - defects - back height - side height - sole attachment - cleaning & finishing In-process quality control for full shoe operations -

Page 22 of 23

Counter moulding Toe lasting Side and seat lasting Roughing Cementing Sole attaching

5. Instructional Hours Theory

: 24 hours

Practical

: 8 hours



:

Finishing

-

Identification of quality aspects of shoe upper

-

Identification of quality aspects of lasted upper

-

Identification of quality aspects of finished shoe

: 1. R.G.Miller, (1989) “Manual of shoe making” England-Clarks ltd. 2. Somenath Ganguly, (2005), “Comprehensive Footwear Technology” Kolkatta.- Indian Leather Technologist Association. 3. B.Venkatappaiah, (1997), “Introduction to modern footwear technology” Chennai. -GOTETI GRAPHICS 4. J.H.Thornton, (1970), “Text book of footwear manufacture” London. -National Trade Press 5. NL, “Footwear Materials and process Technology” , Newzealand-Leather and Shoe research Association.

Page 23 of 23

Shoe Lasting and Finishing

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