Nancy Zieman's Sewing A-Z

NANCY

Z I E M A N’S

Sewing Ato Z YOUR SOURCE for SEWING and QUILTING TIPS and TECHNIQUES

FEATURING

80+ TECHNIQUES

contents

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Techniques A to Z . . . 12 A . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Anchor Cloth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Appliqué . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Satin Stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Inner Detail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Freezer Paper Technique . . . . . 22 B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Basting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Belt Loops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Bias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Binding (single-fold) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Binding (double-fold) . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Blanket Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Blind Hem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Bobbin Work . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Buttonholes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Buttons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Casings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Chain Stitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Circles: Cutting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 Circles: Sewing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Clipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Collars & Cuffs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Cutting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Darts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Decorative Stitches—Machine . . . . 49 Double Needle Stitching . . . . . . . . . 50 E . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Easing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Edgestitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Elastic—Types and Techniques . . . 54 F . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Fabric Tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Facings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58



NANCY ZIEMAN’S

Fusible Web . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 G . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Gathering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Grading . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Grainline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 H . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Half-Square Triangles . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Hemming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Hooks and Eyes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 I . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 Interfacing—Types and Uses . . . . . 68 J . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Jackets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 K . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Knits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 L . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Layout . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Layering/Quilt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 M . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Marking . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Mitering Corners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Nap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Needles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Nips and Notches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 O . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Organizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 P . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Pintucks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Piping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Pivoting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Pleats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89 Pocket Flaps—Moving Seam . . . . . 90 Patch Pockets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Q . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Quarter Mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Quarter-Square Triangles . . . . . . . . . 95 Quilting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Tying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 Stitch in the Ditch . . . . . . . . . . . 97 Stencils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Free Motion/Stippling . . . . . . . 99 R . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Ribbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Ripping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Rod Pocket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103

Sewing A to Z by Nancy Zieman

S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Seam Finishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Seam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Serging . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Overlock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Flatlock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107 Rolled Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Chain Stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Cover Stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Shoulder Pads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Sleeves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Snaps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Squaring a Quilt Block . . . . . . . . . . 115 Stabilizer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Staystitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Stratas—Quilt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Stripes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 T . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Tension—Balancing . . . . . . . . . . . . 124 Threads—Types and Use . . . . . . . 126 Topstitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 U . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Underlining . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 Understitching . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129 V . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Velcro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 Vinyl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 W . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Waistbands . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 Wrapped Corners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 Y . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Yo-Yos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Z . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Zigzag Stitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Zippers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Single Lap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Double Lap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Mock Fly Front . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Exposed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 Invisible . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 Shortening . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139

Sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 Books of Interest . . . . . . . . . . 144

Darts Darts have you in a dither? Stitch a straight dimple-free dart in seconds using your thread as a stitching guide.

Figure 1

1

Mark the dart. • Make short ¼" clips at the cut edges of the dart. • Use a washable marking pencil or chalk to mark the point of the dart (Figure 1).

Figure 3

4

Lay the thread on top of the fabric to mark the stitching line between the nips and the dart point.

5

Set the machine to straight stitch and sew the dart, following the thread guide (Figure 3).

D Figure 5

8

Attach the “tail” to the dart. Sew two or three stitches; then cut the threads (Figure 5).

Figure 2

2 3

Fold dart, right sides together, meeting the ¼" nips (Figure 2). Before lowering the presser foot, pull the top thread slightly longer than the dart length. Place the fabric under the presser foot, lower the presser foot, and stitch one stitch.

Figure 4

6

At the end of the dart, turn the machine’s wheel by hand, just barely catching two or three stitches along the dart fold.

7

Tie the thread by chain stitching, sewing off the fabric and allowing the threads to lock together (Figure 4).



Your Go-To Guide from A to Z! Whether you’re a novice sewer or a skilled seamstress, who better to go to for sewing answers than expert Nancy Zieman! Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z will quickly become every reader’s go-to guide for all of their sewing questions.

features > Readers will love the wire-o binding, allowing the book to lay flat for ease of reference while working.

> Over 80 topics, ranging from buttonholes to quilting, provide

readers with tips and techniques for sewing projects of all kinds.

> Each topic is fully illustrated, showing the reader precisely how to achieve their desired result.

Readers will love Nancy’s easy-to-read, simple and straightforward instructions. Having Nancy Zieman’s Sewing A to Z on the worktable will make readers feel like Nancy is working right alongside of them!

Making a fabric tube.

About the Author Nancy Zieman is the producer and host of the popular show Sewing With Nancy, which appears exclusively on public television stations across the United States and Canada. Broadcast since September 1982, the program is the longest-airing sewing series on television. She has written numerous books including the popular “Confidence” series and the forthcoming Nancy’s 101 Favorite Notions. Nancy also designs patterns for the New York-based McCall Pattern Company. Her distinctive patterns are found under the Sewing With Nancy collection. She founded Nancy’s Notions, now a division of Tacony Corporation.

ISBN 13 . . . . . . . . . . 978-1-4402-1429-5 ISBN 10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1-4402-1429-8 UPC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0 74962 01278 4 EAN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 781440 214295 SRN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Y0005

Category . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Sewing Price . . . . . . . . . US $29.99, CAN $33.99 Trim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.25"w x10.875"h Page count . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144 Binding . . . Case/plc w/ concealed wire-o

Publication month . . . . . . . . . July 2011 Word count . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30,000 # of color illustrations . . . . . . . . . . . 300 # of b/w illustrations . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Interior color . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4c

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NANCY ZIEMAN’S

Sewing A to Z by Nancy Zieman

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