Make a Carbon Arc Torch for Your 220 Volt Stick We

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Make a carbon arc torch for your 220 volt stick welder by Phil B on August 20, 2008

Table of Contents

Make a carbon arc torch for your 220 volt stick welder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1

Intro: Make a carbon carbon arc torch for your 220 volt stick welder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 1: 1: Make the wooden wooden handles handles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2

Step 2: Prepare the handles for the hinge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Step 3: Prepare the handles handles for the spring and nylon tie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

3

Step 4: Drill the ends of the handles for the steel rods rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4

Step 5: Weld the nipples to the rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Step 6: Add tabs for electrical connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

5

Step 7: Secure the wire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

6

Step 8: Insert the carbon rods and align their tips . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Step 9: Using the torch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

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http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-a-carbon-arc-torch-for-your-220-volt-stick-we/

Author:Phil B I miss the days when magazines like Popular Mechanics had all sorts of DIY projects for making and repairing just about everything. I am enjoying posting things I have learned and done since I got my first tools. I enjoy studying the Bible and recently retired after 40 years as a Lutheran pastor. I like to dabble with some electronics projects. I have a lathe, a radial arm saw, a router, and both a 220 volt stick welder and a flux core wire feed welder. I appreciate Instructables from others that are practical and address real problems with useful solutions. These are the type of Instructables I try to write and publish.

Intro: Make a carbon arc torch for your 220 volt stick welder MIG welders can do many things, but they cannot heat metal for bending or brazing. Your stick welder can do those things with a carbon arc torch added to it. I am using a torch already fully constructed, so you will not see the parts aside from their place in the final unit. Materials needed: 2 pieces of 1 x 2 f irring strip 6 inches long ( each) 2 pieces of 1/4 inch steel rod 7 inches long (each) 2 1/4 inch water pipe nipples 2 1/2 inches long (each) 2 #8-32 thumb screws about 1/2 inch long each 2 #8-32 nuts 2 1/4 inch flat washers 2 pieces of steel 1/8 inch thick and 3/8 inch x 3/4 inch 2 crimp-on connectors for #10 stranded wire 2 #8 terminal screws from an old electrical outlet 1 compression spring about 1/2 inch in diameter and 2 inches long 1 nylon cable tie about 6 inches or more long 8 #8 round head wood or flat head sheet metal screws 20 feet of #10 stranded plastic or rubber covered copper wire 2 pieces of scrap steel or aluminum 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick and 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 inches (each) 1/4 inch carbon rods (Get at a welding supply house.) Tools needed: Wood saw Hack saw Drill press and bit assortment #8-32 tap Crimping tool for electrical terminals Soldering iron (150 watt) or gas torch and solder Arc welder Begin by cutting the wooden handles from the firring strip--6 inches long each.

Step 1: Make the wooden handles Cut two pieces of 1 x 2 inch pine, like a fir ring strip. Make them 6 inches long each.


Step 2: Prepare the handles for the hinge The handles are hinged at the rear end of the torch. The side with the single screw is free t o move. The 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 pieces of aluminum or steel are fastened with two screws to the other handle. The side out of view to the camera i s a mirror image of what is shown here. Leave the single screw a tiny bit loose so the hinge action moves freely. (The hole you see in the aluminum is left over from a previous life.)

Step 3: Prepare the handles for the spring and nylon tie Using the torch will involve squeezing it with one hand. You want the spring to gently push the handles open when the pressure from your hand is released. But, you do not want them to open without limitation. So, a nylon cable t ie goes through the center of the spring and around the bottom of the handles to restrict how far the handles can open. Close the handles and drill a hole about 3/16 of an inch through both. The nylon tie will go through t hese holes later, but not right away. Open the handles wide and drill a 1/2 inch countersink hole on the inside face of each handle. These holes are for the ends of the spring. Wait to install the spring and nylon tie until after the next step.


Step 4: Drill the ends of the handles for the steel rods The holes for the steel rods should be straight and parallel to each other so the tips of the carbon rods will touch when the handles are squeezed together during use of the torch. A drill press or similar assistance for drilling holes parallel to the outer surfaces of the handles is a big help, although it may be possible to get pretty close with a hand-held drill. These holes should be about 1 1/2 inch deep into the ends of the handles. Weld a flat washer on each steel rod. Insert the rods into the handles. Drill for a locking screw on each handle. This screw fixes the rods so they cannot shift or r otate from your setting of their angle. Now place the spring into the countersink holes on the inner surfaces of the handles. Hold the handles together lightly and insert the nylon tie so it goes through t he spring. Slip the end of t he nylon tie through its own ret aining hole and adjust the tension on the nylon tie for the amount of space you want between the handles when they are not being squeezed. Trim the nylon t ie so the extra is r emoved. You may want to heat the cut end of the nylon tie wit h a match so it loses i ts sharp edge. Sometimes those can scratch and cut. (See the previous panel for the photo there.)


Step 5: Weld the nipples to the rods If you can get black iron nipples, so much the better for welding. If you can get only galvinized, grind away the zinc coating wherever you will be welding and do not breathe any fumes. Do your best to align the nipples to the steel r ods before welding so the center of both nipples is on the same plane as much as possible. This will be important for making the tips of the carbon rods meet when the handles are squeezed together during use of the torch. Some discrepancies can be overcome by bending the 1/4 inch steel rods a little. Nipples are a little larger than their nominal sizes. You may want to run a 5/16 inch drill bit through the nipples. This would allow using 5/16 inch carbon rods for a bit more heat, although I have always been able to do anything I need to do with 1/4 inch carbon rods. Besides, it is not always easy to find 5/16 inch carbon r ods. Drill a 3/16 inch hole i n the side of the nipples near the lower end (as when the t orch is in use). Place a #8-32 nut over the hole and weld it in place. The nut's threads will likely distort a little during welding. Chase the threads with a #8-32 thread tap. Screw the thumbscrews into the nuts. A 1/4 inch carbon rod is shown in the nipple ready for use in the photo.

Step 6: Add tabs for electrical connections Weld steel tabs 3/8 x 3/4 inch to the 1/4 inch steel rods for the electrical connections. Be careful to check their position before welding so t he tabs will not touch and short out the torch when the handles are squeezed. Drill each tab and thread for #8-32 screws. Brass screws from old electrical outlets work very well, although you may need to chase the ends of their t hreads with the thead chaser on your crimping t ool. Cut the 20 foot piece of #10 stranded wire in two halves. Cri mp the connectors on each 10 foot piece of #10 stranded copper wire and attach the wire to the tabs.


Step 7: Secure the wire Another smaller nylon tie can be very helpful for securing the wires as t hey pass under the handle as you see in this photo. Use electrical tape every foot or so to keep the two wires together. Strip the other ends of t he wires back about an inch and tin each with solder to keep them from fraying. When you are using the torch, either wire will be held by the welder's ground clamp and the other will be held by the electrode holder (stinger). There is no polarity to be of concern. Keep the electrode holder and the ground clamp separated from one another so there will be no unwanted sparks.

Step 8: Insert the carbon rods and align their tips You need about two inches of carbon rod extending from each nipple at the very minimum. This keeps the actual torch from becoming too hot. With the welder's power off, adjust the carbon rods so t hey meet each other when the handles are squeezed together. Bend the 1/4 inch steel rods slightly as necessary to insure the tips meet. During use you will need periodically to stop and readjust the position of one or the other of the carbon rods because one invariably burns faster than the other. I find I can do this easily while wearing welder's gloves.

Step 9: Using the torch This is how your finished torch should appear. Put on your welding helmet and gloves. Set your 220 volt welder between about 70 and 90 amps for 1/4 inch carbon rods, depending on how much heat you need for your job. (115 volt welders do not have the power or duty cycle needed to operate a carbon arc torch.) Be careful that the torch does not touch anything conductive once the welder's power is on. When you need to put the torch down, you can leave t he welder running, but turn the torch upside down and set i t onto a piece of plywood or a clean, non-metalic workbench surface. Flip your helmet down with the snap of your neck. Squeeze the handles together until the tips of the carbon rods touch. Hold them together for a couple of seconds so they can heat up. Then gently relax your grip just a little so the tips have a gap between them, and a brilliant blue arc will form between the tips of the carbon rods. It will be very, very hot. You will soon get a sense of how much to spread the tips. Keep the arc moving over the steel you want to heat. If held in one place too long, litt le pools of molten metal will form and you could even burn or blow through your work. I find it works best to heat a small area on a piece I want to bend and then pull part of the bend I want to make. Then I heat the area next to what I bent until it is ready to pull. If something does not go quite right, heat it again and bend to correct. If you are brazing something, heat the metal until it is hot enough to melt the brazing rod. A carbon arc torch does not use gas fl owing under pressure, like an oxy-acetylene torch. You do not need to worry much about small parts being blown out of position. A carbon arc torch greatly expands the versatility of your 220 volt stick welder. Some people use the flame of a carbon arc torch the way one might use the flame of an oxy-acetylene torch to make metal form a pool. Then they add welding rod to weld as they would with a gas welder. I have read that it is possible to use only one carbon rod. The ground clamp goes on the work and the single carbon rod acts like a spot welder. I tried t his once, but the pieces of metal were not clamped tightly enough to


make it work.

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Comments 50 comments Add Comment

difflock says:

view all 68 comments Dec 8, 2011. 9:04 AM REPLY

A carbon arc torch is something I've wanted for my AC stick welder...... I did have an idea though..... a couple of cheap stick electrode holders fixed t ogether with a hinge and a spring.... . you then have a slightly more refi ned carbon arc torch! :)

Phil B says:

Dec 8, 2011. 9:11 AM REPLY

Your version will be more expensive to make and will be heavier for your hand to hold and control.

difflock says:

Dec 9, 2011. 9:10 AM REPLY

I know it would be a bit more expensive to make (the cheap electrode holders ar e less than £10 each).... http://www.thewelderswarehouse.com/Welding/200amp_Crocodile_Type_Electrode_Holder2.html I dont know if they are more expensive in the US though...... but apart from a hinge and a spring of some form, its all that would be needed....... as for the weight, I'm not sure it would be heavy...... the budget electrode holders arent heavy as most of the material is plastic...... I'm definitely going to make a carbon ar c torch though..... I'd eventually like to use it f or welding aluminium plus brazing of various metals.. . is it possible to simply use aluminium TIG welding rods for filler material? aluminium welding is the one thing I always seem to need, but I currently havent got the tools to do so (I cant afford a TIG capable of aluminium


welding, and my MIG is configured for steel.....)

raven.sirius says:

Feb 1, 2015. 6:30 PM REPLY I know this is three years late, but, did you find t hat the cheap holders didn't have the staying capacity? And I would have thought they might not have the strentgh for 1/4 Carbon to be held firmly enough?

astral_mage says:

Nov 27, 2013. 11:31 PM REPLY

check out harbor frieght tools .com . not the best quality gear but if yr on a budget go thier.

Phil B says:

Dec 9, 2011. 10:58 AM REPLY In the US I have seen electrode holders for about $15. As I r emember the Pound is around $2 plus, so maybe ar ound seven Pounds. I have no experience with welding aluminum or with using a TIG. I have read about both and watched some videos on YouTube, but that is about all. I am not much help to you. I would be interested in seeing a photo when you get your carbon arc torch r eady to use and to hear a r eport on how it works for you.

difflock says:

Dec 9, 2011. 12:58 PM REPLY

I think I'll make up a basic one from scraps (similar to yours) to see how I get on with it.... if it works out, I'll make a nicer one (which will also allow me to correct any errors/problems) I've never welded aluminium due to not having the right setup, and I've never used a TIG welder due to costs..... although, I am planning an alternator welder, which will become a DC TIG welder....... but once I've built a carbon arc torch, and had a go with it, I will indeed post an update of how I got on with it.......

astral_mage says:

Aug 27, 2013. 2:21 PM REPLY

hey to the gentle who looking a microwave transformer np im sitting on to of them i can send u 1 np

astral_mage says:

Nov 27, 2013. 11:28 PM REPLY

still have 1 atm out of the unit an another still ing the unit.

tfmach says:

May 21, 2013. 5:18 AM REPLY G'day Phil, many thanks for your excellent t utorial. I'v long wondered about a cheap heating solution to allow me to harden custom cutting tools; adapting the little stick welder for the job is of course perfect. Just finished mine, haven't experimented with it too much just yet, but seems to work great. I'm running 8mm rods on a 150amp welder. I find at this early stage that the arc has to be extremely small which is a little tricky--I dare say that perhaps a gutsier welder would allow a wider arc/greater heating area. Or maybe, 6mm electrodes and rebuilding another one with thinner diameter rod? Not sure, just a bit of conjecture.

Phil B says:

May 21, 2013. 8:37 AM REPLY I thought I left a reply to your comment, but it does not appear, even after refreshing the page. Thank you for making a carbon arc torch. It looks really good. I have been able to heat and bend steel rod up to around 13mm (1/2 inch) using 6mm carbon rods (1/4 inch) at around 90 amps on my big 230 volt welder. I generally get an arc at least the diameter of a finger. I have some 8mm (3/8 inch) carbon rod, but the metal tubes on my torch are too small for them. I could weld larger tubes parallel to the existing tubes. Try clamping some 6mm carbon rod inside your existing torch tubes and see how that works. Thank you, again.

tfmach says: A picture


May 21, 2013. 5:23 AM REPLY

Markaw says:

Mar 12, 2009. 6:31 AM REPLY Is it possible to make a fairly precise cutting tool wit hout having to crank the up welder and blow through welding rods on this type of welder? I'm looking for some fairly clean edges and not molten globs. The only option I can see is a gas setup to do the cutting. On this inst...I li ke the ability to heat and bend that will make some projects I have in mind a lot easier to complete!

Ilan Voyager says:

Apr 19, 2009. 7:33 AM REPLY The only precise methods for cutting metal: - waterjet (expensive tooling) - special saw (band or circular like the Evolution saws) for straight cuts The melting or combustion tools like plasma cutti ng or arc leave always molten globs to finish.

brandon_a_boyer says:

Aug 24, 2011. 2:27 PM REPLY

Not if the process is set up correctly. I use a oxy-propadine torce on a regular basis and it leaves a very clean edge.

brandon_a_boyer says:

Aug 21, 2011. 1:55 PM REPLY What you are referring to is carbon-arc cutting. Essentially you use a stream of compressed air to blow through the puddle. It produces a lot of sparks and is a very messy cut. You would be far better off using a plasma torch or a gas cutti ng torch.

omnibot says:

Sep 7, 2010. 1:24 AM REPLY Oxy-fuel welding and cutting is one option. If you can heat the metal anough and then apply a stream of pure oxygen to it iron and most ferric alloys wil l burn fairly straight through. Wear heavy clothing though, it sparkles like crazy but the cuts are fairly straight. It's normally used for really heavy sheet-iron and steel at wharfs and constructionsites.

co2wms7whcc says:

Jul 26, 2010. 11:15 PM REPLY

Look up thermite cutting on youtube. It leaves a bunch of slag but its still crazy!

Phil B says:

Mar 12, 2009. 6:59 AM REPLY In regard to heating and bending steel, my wife hates my welder because my metalwork produces grit on the garage floor. Some of the grit is from slag and some is from grinding metal. I mentioned MIG welders with inert gas instead of flux. She is ready to buy one for me. But, I want to be able to heat and bend steel when I need to do so. I am not r eady to give up my stick welder. On the cutting you want to do, how thick is the steel and how much cutting will you do? I use an abrasive cutting wheel a lot for cutting. If it is relatively fine work, I use a small disc on a Dremel tool. See my Instructable http://www.instructables.com/id/Sawsmith_Radial_Arm_Saw_Enlarge_Arbor_Hole_on_a/ If it is just cut off work, see my Instructable http://www.instructables.com/id/Cut_Off_Saw_from_an_Angle_Head_Grinder/ If you need to do a lot of cutting with curves, a plasma cutter might be what you need, but those cost some money. I do not have a plasma cutter. A friend does, and he found the cheap ones are not worth the bother.

Badgermilker says:

Apr 16, 2011. 3:21 PM REPLY Thank you, for the design, I think i was in to the one I built was about $11.00 U.S. I can use it either on a 110v or 220v welder depending on the thickness of what you are trying to heat. With the 220v you can heat horse shoes fairly quick to the point of being able t o twist them. Once again thank you f or sharing your design. Older tech but a good tool to have in your shop.

Phil B says:

Jun 3, 2011. 6:03 PM REPLY I am sorry I missed your comment when you posted it. Your t orch looks very good. I am glad you are enjoying it and it works well for you. I see you used a commercial door hinge. You set your thumbscrews for holding the rods in place f airly high on the pipe nipples. The first edition of my carbon arc torch had the thumbscrews higher, but then I discovered I could not use carbon rods once they were only a certain length. I cut the nipples off and welded on nipples slightly larger in diameter for larger size carbon rods. At the same time I put the thumbscrews quite low so I could use the carbon rods until they came to be quite short. Thank you for looking and for commenting. It is always nice to have been helpful to someone.


ta-manie says:

Mar 27, 2010. 8:41 AM REPLY

Hi Ive just been to an agricultural show in a rural town in South Africa. Saw a demo of a carbon arc torch. Coudnt believe my eyes (with welders helmet on). The simplicity. It was the answer to my prayers. The catch: The demo guy yapping about having sole copy righ of some kindt. (It didnt sound right). The next killer: the price ZAR650. (almost $90). Got home, googled "carbon arc torch" and more prayers anwered. Cant wait to get home and start making my very own torch. I own a 220v inverter sti ck/arc welder and assume it should work well. Regards, will post progress shortly. Hold thumbs for me, guys. Ta-Manie. Cape Town. South Africa.

Phil B says:

Mar 27, 2010. 10:02 AM REPLY Thank you very much for your comment. I am very happy that this will be useful to you and save you a good deal of money. I do not have any experience with an inverter welder, but did view a demonstration video of one on YouTube. The key consideration will be the welder's duty cycle. If the duty cycle on your welder is too short, it may overheat and cut out before you are able to get the heat you need out of your carbon arc torch. it is an interesting world when a guy in the northwest of the United States can provide something useful to someone in South Africa, and both of them have never met one another. Best wishes.

rimar2000 says:

Feb 19, 2010. 1:00 PM REPLY This question is addressed to several authors of welding related instructables. Some time ago I was excited with the possibility of constructing a spot welder, but here in my city there is no way to get an used microwave transformer: nobody throws away something as that. Then I tried with my 220-volt electric welder, but I could hardly weak solder some iron wires of 2 mm, even though I was a good time trying. Today I decided to uncover my welding machine, and found that in the secondary winding there is no place to put even a loop of thin wire. But in the primary, yes! I think I can easily add several turns of thick wire, by way of a "bis" secondary winding. Now come the doubts, and related questions: whether the primary winding has 248 turns (more or less, it is what I could count), and get 220 volts, it is assumed that each round of "my" coil will produce 220 / 248 = 0,887 volts. What for me? Put only one or two turns, or try to reach five or six? A more laps, more volts but less amps. I suppose that losses play an important role in the case of small voltages, and who knows what is best. Maybe you has an answer and save me the work of trial and error, which can become very tedious. Thanks in advance!

Phil B says:

Feb 19, 2010. 8:58 PM REPLY

Osvaldo, There are a number of pages in English on transformer design with all sorts of formulae. I do not know what is available in Spanish. A friend had a spot welder and its transformer quit working. We think there was an internal short in one of the windings. I do know the secondary was not made of wire or cable, but a continuous flat sheet of copper wound with an insulation layer around itself. They used copper sheet in order to carry the high amperage load.

rimar2000 says:

Feb 20, 2010. 6:31 AM REPLY

Oh, that is a good notice f or me! I could use a flattened copper pipe, wrapped with a plastic hose. Today I went figuring out, and i n my small town there are not many alternatives to choose cables. There was one of section 25 mm and another 16 mm (5 mm copper diameter). I chose the latter, I'll do the test and if it is too scarce, I will buy the other. I can read and understand fairly well English, when I encounter a word I do not know or do not remember, I go to Google translator. But I think my experiment don't deserve to study the fundamentals of transformers, it is a simple test. Thanks for your response, I will let know to you the results.

Phil B says:

Feb 20, 2010. 8:48 AM REPLY Some transformers use sheet aluminum in place of copper. We have rolls of aluminum sheet about 10 inches wide and perhaps 25 feet long that is sold for flashing when putting shingles on a roof. It is used to seal around chimneys and where two sections of roof meet.

rimar2000 says:

Feb 20, 2010. 5:09 PM REPLY The flat sheet of metal (copper or aluminum) also was suggested to me for my brother. I'll keep it in mind if the 16mm section wire fails. The sheet can be multi-sheet, for better handling. Thanks for your kindness. An interesting warning that my brother gave me was that the construction of the clamps must be very strong, because usually there is a tendency to deviate when squeezed hard.......

Phil B says:

Feb 21, 2010. 5:45 AM REPLY I remember the clamp arms from the spot welder my friend had. They were a copper alloy tube about 25 mm in diameter, maybe bronze. They were strong. I think you could use steel. If you are worried about extra electrical resistance from the steel, you could run a copper cable parallel to the steel. The steel would provide the strength and the cable would provide the electrical pathway. Also, the hinge system was very precise and sturdy. Normally I would say ordinary door hinges would not work, but look at what I did with two hinges set apart from one another in this Instructable. Setting two ordinary hinges apart makes a more precise hinge system.


rimar2000 says:

Feb 21, 2010. 12:03 PM REPLY I am thinking to make an welded isosceles triangle of iron tin t ube (the pipe that is used for electrical wiring) approx 5/8 or 3/4 inches diameter, and use the basis side (approx 5 inches) as hinge. Higth approx 12 inches, with an horizontal hole at top, where the mobile electrode will be screwed, reversible to switch between sheet and wire solder. The fixed electrode will be flat in both cases. The axis for the triangle may be a rod of hard wood. Very clever your Cut Off Saw from an Angle Head Grinder. I have one alike buyed cheap, it is not so strong, but is very useful to make repetitive cuttings.

dg2clarke says:

Feb 20, 2010. 4:02 PM REPLY Can something like this be used to fuse-weld material which would otherwise be too thin for a given arc welder? For example the manual for my welder recommends no thinner than 1.5mm mild. Could I use something like this to weld/braze thinner material like 1.2mm without blowing holes in it?

Phil B says:

Feb 21, 2010. 5:56 AM REPLY In theory the answer to your question is, "Yes." A book on welding describes using a carbon arc to heat the metal in the same way you would use an oxy-acetylene torch to weld. When the puddle forms, you use a steel filler rod to add material as if you were gas welding. In practice, I see a lot of reddish residue after using my carbon arc torch. I have concerns about it contaminating the weld. The carbon arc is also not as precise and as easy to control as a good gas torch. The book I mentioned also speaks of using a carbon rod to spot weld. I would say the two pieces have to be clamped together very, very tightly. Then the current and the duration of the current flow has to be within narrow parameters. I have successfully used a stick welder for material even thinner than 1.5 mm. I held a piece of aluminum stock behind the weld to absorb extra heat and to provide a backstop so molten steel could not blow away. I also maintained the arc only a second or two. Then I let the weld cool a bit before striking another arc on the material. You have to dial the current down quite a lot, and that can make starting the arc difficult. Seeanother Instructable I did on using a carbon rod to start the arc where you want it.

foxtail says:

Mar 2, 2009. 11:06 AM REPLY This is a fantastic instructable...here's a picture of the TCAW setup I made out of some scraps pf purple heart (wood) I had laying around ( that's the real color) a marine hinge, and some 3/4" hollow shaft:

vapoking says:

Jul 15, 2009. 9:41 AM REPLY I can't believe you used that much purple heart for a welder. Remember it gets darker and darker in the sun until its almost black

omnibot says:

Jan 10, 2010. 9:27 AM REPLY

But it's such a beautiful looking welder ; )

Phil B says:

Mar 4, 2009. 6:30 AM REPLY The carbon rods will become quite hot in use. The purpose of mounting the r ods on the ends of steel rods is to protect the wooden handles from excess heat. How do your wooden handles stand up to the heat in the carbon rods wit h the carbon rods basically mounted at the end of the wooden handles?

foxtail says:

Apr 23, 2009. 5:15 PM REPLY you know, I haven't used it for longer than 5-10 minutes at a clip before. Purple Heart is extremely dense, and it has shown I tiny bit of charring, but not enough that it affects how t ightly the pieces are clamped onto the wood. If I'd used pine or any other softwood though, they would have been toast by now, I'm sure. As it is, my current set up works fine for me.

Phil B says: Sounds good. I hope you get a lot of benefit from using your carbon arc torch and really enjoy it.


Apr 25, 2009. 7:20 PM REPLY

Ilan Voyager says:

Mar 31, 2009. 12:48 PM REPLY Many thanks. Very precise and detailed. Long long time ago, in a galaxy far f ar away, I've used a twin carbon t orch and I've loved it for brazing aluminum. I'm going to make one as I have an old AC 130A stick welder covered of dust in a corner. The addition of a resistor would be interesting to save the welder.

Phil B says:

Apr 1, 2009. 6:09 AM REPLY Thanks for your comments. I was not aware it is possible to braze aluminum. What do you use for a rod? Are there any special preparations to follow? Enjoy Instructables. I see you joined just yesterday. (I clicked on your screen name to view your public profile.) When I find an Instructable I like, I often check the author's profile to see what other Instructables he or she might have done and check out some of those, too.

Ilan Voyager says:

Apr 1, 2009. 6:33 PM REPLY Since long time , Aluminum has been weld or brazed with an oxy-acetylene torch, propane torch or a twin carbon torch. Mi g and Tig are electric industrial processes faster than torchs, but ask for an heavy investment (from 700 to 2000 USD in DIY, and far more in true industrial), a bit expensive for the common DIYer . All the brazing rods for alu and white metal are zinc alloy based. The oldest one is the Aladdin 3 in 1 brazing rod ( http://www.aladdin3in1.com/index.htm) they have very good infos and booklets. There are a lot of other brands, some with extravagant claims and outrageous prices.(alumiweld, durafix, etc). After you have true welding with aluminum wire and a flux ( http://www.tinmantech.com/html/aluminum_wire_flux.php ). These technics ask for a good training and can be very disappointing for the "brutal" guy. That need some brain juice and light precise hand. Preheating and cleaning are essential. Make a search by Goggle, you'll find useful links. A good twin carbon torch can be very useful as it doesn't contaminate the brazing or welding, and doesn't need expensive tanks. But it asks for a lot of precautions: good gloves, fully clothed, and at least a 13 shade full face mask (t he electronics masks for TIG and MIG are perfect).

Phil B says:

Apr 2, 2009. 5:56 AM REPLY Thank you for the response. I think I did something like that a couple of years ago. I got some special rods at Home Depot. I used a MAPP gas torch. You were to heat the aluminum and clean it quickly with a wire brush. Then you melted the rod into the joint. It seemed to work pretty well. My wife has a fondness for sundials. I designed and made one for her with aluminum rod and some aluminum flat stock bent i nto a circle. I had also found a web site that gives you the proper angles for the radians at your latitude.

Ilan Voyager says:

Apr 19, 2009. 7:28 AM REPLY I'm a bit late, very interesting things the gnomons (solar clocks) There is an excellent freeware (versions in french, english and other languages) for conceiving and drawing a sundial that works (mine is precise at the minute)... http://pagesperso-orange.fr/blateyron/sundials/shadowspro/fr/index.html And do not forget the classic Roman citati on on the sundial: Vulnerant omnes, última necat (All (hours) wound, the last kills). Maybe a bit harsh in times of frivolity... For those interested by engineering and Roman civilisation, make a search about "roman concrete" and you'll be very amazed...

n8997j says:

Jan 23, 2009. 11:12 AM REPLY Yes, I did notice the power dropping off and that's what concerned me (along with the buzzing noise). I'll stick t o AC and a larger fl ame as you suggest. I thought any sizable gap would provide enough resistance to keep the welder from overheating (like any welding rod at 50 amps). Apparently carbon gouging rods are more conductive across the gap. Thanks!

Phil B says:

Jan 23, 2009. 12:34 PM REPLY As you are probably very much aware, when t he duty cycle of a welder comes to be exceeded, the power at the arc t akes a big nose dive. So far, that has been a good indicator to me that I need to let the welder rest and cool, or that something I am doing is causing it to overheat.

n8997j says:

Jan 21, 2009. 2:51 PM REPLY Great Instructable! Using gouging carbon rods (the only kinds available), I began playing around with f lame size -- very soft. My concern was the sound my DC welder made. Smaller arcs made my welder buzz like a closed circuit, similar to a stuck welding rod. Larger arcs made less buzz, but it was harder to maintain the flame. Am I burning up my welder by what seems to be creating a closed circuit using a more stable smaller arc? It sounds very much like a sustained stuck rod. Thanks for any advice.

Phil B says:

Jan 21, 2009. 3:23 PM REPLY I have used AC current only with my carbon arc torch. I do not try for a small flame and have no trouble maintaining a flame, as long as the tips of the carbon rods are properly aligned and burning evenly. I would prefer my welder does not sound like an electrode is stuck. I would t hink the welder would overheat if running with a shorted condition like that. Previous experience with an AC welder indicated the welder's output drops off when i t overheats, and that is a big signal to let it cool with some rest time. Perhaps someone else can give you better advice.

rimar2000 says:

Jan 10, 2009. 6:01 PM REPLY Great job, Phil B. I bought a electric welder t wo weeks ago, and I am learning t o use it. This is a very good "bonus track". Thanks!


Phil B says:

Jan 10, 2009. 7:22 PM REPLY Rimar, Let me know how the carbon arc torch works for you. It is good to know interest in things like this are the same in Argentina as in the USA. My first experiences with welding were with an oxy-acetylene torch that belonged to a fr iend. He showed me how to start a puddle and add a little of the rod as needed. Then he said it is like learning to ride a bicycle. You just keep practicing until it does what you want it to do. When I got my electric welder I read a couple of "how to" books about welding. I also read a lot of posts on welding forums. You might like to look at my Instructable on how to start an arc exactly where you want it. It is simple and effective, especially for someone just starting with arc welding. I hope your automatic translators can bring this over into Spanish in a way that makes sense for you. Thanks.

rimar2000 says:

Jan 15, 2009. 2:34 PM REPLY Alleluia, alleluia, I got two carbon electrodes! I bought two Eveready heavy duty batteries (approx. 0.74 U$S each), and disassembled them. Each of them had a carbon rod of 8 mm diameter by 5.8 cm in length. As bonus, I got t wo little zinc bowls, which I will use to galvanize some small pieces using the battery charger. Now I can sleep in peace and enjoy the holidays ...

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