Love Of Knitting Fall 2012

11 S I M P L E F A L L PAT T E R N S

Love of

Fall 2012

Projects, tips & techniques for every knitter

26

STYLISH

PROJECTS! HOW-TO ENTRELAC: IT’S EASY!

Must-Make HATS & SCARVES

9

NEW SWEATERS for Fall

loveof knitting.com US $6.99, DISPLAY UNTIL 9/24/12

+Right-On RIBBING 2

Love of

Fall 2012 60 66

Projects, tips & techniques for every knitter

18 54 63

76

Projects for every knitter

Techniques and more

15

73

Stitch dictionary More than just an edging—practical and versatile ribbed stitches

22

Learn to knit — Changing seasons hat and scarf A simple pattern beautifully embellished with soft self-striping yarn Meet the designer Spend a little time with one of our favorite designers Lorna Miser A beginner's guide to Entrelac Explore the variety and beauty of this fascinating technique

26 34 40 46 50 56

79

Herringbone skirt A simple A-line shape magnificently enhanced by a classic texture Ribbed and ruffled A fun, flirty, and amusing vest

Classic cabled vest Handsome in and out of the office Meet me for coffee A classic texture, a fun cape Weekend swoncho Trendy and versatile—the perfect fall garment Early frost Sumptuous yarn and floral lace inspire an elegant wrap Emerald Isle sweater Tweed yarn delightfully enhances creative cables

Kids projects

Pine needle shrug Rich color and soft yarn keep your shoulders warm and fashionable Twisted stitch pullover Creative stitches compose a masculine sweater

82 85 88

Trimmed in trinity Interesting texture forms a fabulous finish for this cardigan Moon shadows cardigan Exquisite color and a hint of sparkle enhance a simple raglan sweater Fireside sparkle A bewitching sweater twinkles and shines

Play in the leaves A casual and cozy pullover and hat that are perfect for play School spirit vest Dress to impress this fall Swan princess dress A full tutu skirt perfect for twirling and dancing

Accessories and fun stuff

8

Evening stroll The deep vibrant color of this shawl is accented with beautiful beads

+ WEB

Bonus! 98

4

Love of Knitting | Fall 2012

46

60

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32 70

Raspberry treat Warm and sweet, a delicious cowl to keep you cozy Equestrian elegance Charming cables embellish stylish accessories

Home dec

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Contents

Dragonscale throw Add a colorful accessory to accent every room

In every issue

6 30 49 92 97

Editor’s letter The knitting shop Books for knitters Basic knitting instructions Resources

Web bonus

98

Autumn harvest A basic black sweater beautifully embellished with brightly colored Fair Isle patterns

76

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Copyright© 2012 Creative Crafts Group. All rights reserved. Love of Knitting (ISSN 2165-848X) Issue #16, is published 4 times a year in Spring, Summer, Fall, and Winter, by Creative Crafts Group, LLC, 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. Periodicals postage paid at Golden, CO 80401 and additional mailing offices. Subscription rates for the United States and possessions: $24.99 for one year (4 issues). Subscribers in Canada, add $6.00 per year to your subscription cost (includes postage GST), International add $12.00 per year to your subscription cost. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Love of Knitting, PO Box 433054, Palm Coast, FL 32143-3054. Prepaid payment in US funds only. Major credit cards accepted. Allow 6 weeks for delivery. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to Bluechip International, PO Box 25542, London ON N6C6B2.


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we are fortunate to witness all four seasons (sometimes in one day), and fall is a particular favorite for me. The chill in the air encourages me to knit sweater after sweater, and I have selected several from this issue I cannot wait to cast on. If you have been intrigued by sweaters but haven’t yet taken the garment plunge, we have a selection of sweaters that will make an ideal beginner project. The Moon Shadows Cardigan, page 50, featuring raglan shaping, and simple lace, will teach the basics of sweater construction with the ease of a no-sew finish. Or if you are looking for a fabulous and trendy take on the poncho, try our Weekend Swoncho, page 73. With comfortable sleeves and two fantastic finishing options, you will want to knit several for your fall wardrobe. Sweaters with interesting construction always intrigue me, and our Emerald Isle Sweater, page 79, with twisting cables and knit from side to side, rather than from the top down, also has me eager to cast on. If you would prefer to knit for the guy in your life, our Classic Cabled Vest, page 60, will keep him warm and cozy this season. Or if you are ready for a fun and challenging project, our Twisted Stitch Sweater, page 40, will keep your needles moving. The design is deceptively simple and masculine, perfect for him, but every stitch in this sweater is moving or twisting. It is a project that will keep you on your toes from beginning to end. I love learning new techniques and adding new skills to my knitting bag of tricks, and I am fascinated by entrelac. This interesting knitting method combines several simple skills (short rows, increasing, decreasing, and picking up stitches) to create a finished fabric that is unlike any other. Once you learn the basics in our Beginners Guide to Entrelac, page 63, perfect your new technique with our Dragonscale Throw, page 12. With so many inspiring projects, I know that I am going to be busy knitting this fall, and first up will be Early Frost, page 76. From the elegant cabled lace pattern to the exquisite color, we couldn’t resist making this wrap our next knit-along project. The yarn has been selected, and we hope you join us on our blog at www.loveofknitting.com when we begin on August 13th. Happy knitting!

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Love of

Here at the Love of Knitting offices,

Editor-in-Chief: Jennifer Burt Art Directors: Kathy Locke & Brenda Gallagher Technical Editor: Amy Polcyn Copy Editor: Teri Coffman Graphic Design: Marla Stefanelli Photography: J.C. Leacock, Mellisa Karlin Mahoney, Brenda Gallagher CREATIVE CRAFTS GROUP, LLC President and CEO: Stephen J. Kent VP/Group Publisher: Tina Battock Chief Financial Officer: Mark F. Arnett Controller: Jordan Bohrer VP/Publishing Director: Joel P. Toner VP/Production & Technology: Derek W. Corson VP/Consumer Marketing and Group Marketing Director: Nicole McGuire OPERATIONS Publisher: Lisa O’Bryan New Business Manager: Lance Covert Renewal & Billing Manager: Nekeya Dancy Newsstand Consultant: T.J. Montilli Ecommerce Senior Marketing Manager: MaKenzie Dykstra Online Subscription Manager: Jodi Lee Director of IT: Tom Judd Production Manager: Dominic Taormina Ad Production Coordinator: Erin Sendelbach Advertising Coordinator: Madalene Becker Administrative Assistant: Jane Flynn Retail Sales: LaRita Godfrey, 801-816-8410 ADVERTISING INQUIRIES Megan Smith, 303-215-5653 Online Advertising Operations: Andrea Abrahamson, 303-215-5686 For Love of Knitting customer service: Domestic toll free (866) 436-2465 International (386) 246-0419 To subscribe or to change the address of your current subscription: Subscriber Services, Love of Knitting, P.O. Box 433054, Palm Coast, FL 32143-3054 Phone: 866-436-2465, International: 386-597-4387 E-mail: [email protected] Editorial Offices: Love of Knitting, 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401 or call 303-2155600; e-mail: [email protected] Entire contents copyright ©2012 by Creative Crafts Group, LLC, 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. The contents of this magazine may not be used in any form or reproduced in any media without written consent of the publisher. Projects made with patterns from Love of Knitting may not be sold or used for commercial purposes without permission from the project designer. Important Reader Information: Please send all editorial material, advertising material, photos and correspondence to Love of Knitting, 741 Corporate Circle, Suite A, Golden, CO 80401. E-mail: [email protected] or visit www.loveofknitting.com. Submissions: We welcome the submission of designs and photos of projects, but we cannot assume responsibility for material or return it without a self-addressed, stamped envelope. We reserve the right to publish all project photos received by us, in all media. All letters written to the editor either by mail or e-mail become the property of Love of Knitting magazine and are subject to publication. Letters may be edited for space or clarity. Dealer Inquiries Welcome: Love of Knitting is available to retail shops at a discount. Call 800-815-3538 for details. For Additional Copies, call 1-800-610-1464 or 303215-5600 and ask for Newsstand Specials, or write to P.O. Box 4101, Golden, CO 80401-0101. Some back orders of this magazine are available. To place an order online, visit www.loveofknitting.com. Printed in the USA.

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Love of Knitting

Spring 2012

7

´´ Evening stroll Beautiful rich jewel tones are enhanced with alluring glass or wooden beads. Stay warm on cool evenings with this interesting shawl that uses short rows to establish its shape. Yarn: Simply Soft Paints by Caron International

Designed by Diane Moyer Skill level: Intermediate Size: One size Finished measurements: 44½" wide x 15" long, after blocking Yarn weight:

4

Materials • 2 skeins Simply Soft Paints by Caron International, 100% acrylic, (200 yds/113g) in color 0007 Harlequin • U.S. size 10 (6mm) 32" circular needle, or size required for gauge • U.S. size J-10 (6mm) crochet hook • Stitch markers • Assorted beads of various sizes, with holes to accommodate yarn • Twisted beading needle or dental floss threader

Row 2: Sl 1, k3, *p4, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

is; pm after the turn, repositioning as work continues.

Row 3: Sl 1, k1, *p2, k4; rep from * to last 4 sts, p2, k2.

Short row 1 (RS): K82, turn.

Row 4: Rep row 2.

Short row 3: Sl 1, k6, ssk, k3, turn.

Rep rows 1–4 for pat.

Short row 4: Sl 1, p9, p2tog, p3, turn.

Shawl

• Yarn needle

Short row 2: Sl 1, p7, turn.

Gauge

Loosely cast on 186 sts.

Short row 5: Work to 1 st before gap, ssk (1 st on either side of gap), k3, turn.

14 sts and 20 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st, after blocking

Next row (WS): K4, *p4, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Work in lace pat for 32 rows. Work row 1 once more.

Short row 6: Work to 1 st before gap, p2tog (1 st on either side of gap), p3, turn.

Next (dec) row (WS): Sl 1, k3, *p1, p2tog, p1, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2; 156 sts.

Rep rows 5 and 6 until there are 6 sts unworked on each side.

12 sts and 20 rows = 4" (10cm) in lace pat, after blocking

Stitch pattern

Short row shaping

Lace

Note: Scarf is shaped using short rows. You will not wrap sts before turning. Because of the lace pat, it may be difficult to see where the gap

Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, k1, *p2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo; rep from * to last 4 sts, p2, k2.

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Short row 7: Work to 1 st before gap, ssk (1 st on either side of gap), k2, turn. Short row 8: Work to 1 st before gap, p2tog (1 st on either side of gap), p2, turn. Bind off firmly.


9

´

Finishing Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Fringe Cut 60 strands 25" long. Holding 2 strands together, fold fringe in half. Using crochet hook, *insert hook from WS to RS into one point on cast-on edge, pull through fold of strands (loop), insert ends into loop and pull tight against edge; rep from *, working along entire cast-on edge. Place an additional fringe at each end of cast-on edge. Beads Using bead needle or floss threader, thread desired number of beads onto 2 of the 4 strands in each fringe, placing beads at different heights. For the last bead in each set, select a bead with a smaller hole and tie an overhand knot close to where the beads rest. Trim as desired. ;

Everything for the hand knitter

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Cannot be combined with any other offers. Online and phone orders only.

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Lola’s Scarf LW2884

Knit Lafayette Shawl LW2874

Smoky Swirls Scarf LW2920

yarn collection

The Fashion Scarf These other free patterns available at www.redheart.com 11 & Love of Knitting Spring 2012

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12-0045 © 2012 Coats & Clark

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Dragonscale throw Vibrant purple creates a vivid splash of color when surrounded with gorgeous greens and blues. The wonderful woven texture off the entrelac technique creates the perfect backdrop to accent the beauty of the vivid colors. Yarn: Rios by Malabrigo Yarn

Designed by Marly Bird

Blanket

Skill level: Intermediate

Cast on 180 sts.

Sizes: One size Finished measurements: 65” long x 66” wide

Base triangles Note: This tier leans to the left. Row 1 (RS): K2, turn.

Tier 1

Row 2: P2, turn.

Note: This tier leans to the right.

Row 3: K3, turn.

Beginning edge triangle

Row 4: P3, turn.

Materials

Row 1 (WS): P2, turn.

Row 5: K4, turn.

Row 2: K1, kfb, turn; 3 sts on needle.

• 4 skeins Rios by Malabrigo Yarn, 100% superwash merino, (210 yds/100g) in each of colors 37 Lettuce (A) and 809 Solis (B), and 2 skeins in color 30 Purple Mystery (C)

Row 6: P4, turn.

Row 3: P2, p2tog, turn.

Row 7: K5, turn.


Row 8: P5, turn.


Row 9: K6, turn.


Row 10: P6, turn.


Row 11: K7, turn.


Row 12: P7, turn.


Row 13: K8, turn. Row 14: P8, turn.


Row 15: K9, turn.


Row 16: P9, turn.


Yarn weight:

4

• U.S. size 9 (5.5mm) 40" circular needle, or size required for gauge • Yarn needle

Gauge One rectangle = 2" x 2¾"

Note Alternate rows of blocks in A and B, adding in a block in C at random.

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Row 17: K10. One triangle complete. Rep from row 1 for next triangle, using next 2 sts on needle. Cont across for a total of 18 triangles.

Row 13: P7, p2tog, turn. Row 14: K7, kfb, turn; 9 sts on needle.


13

z

z


Tier 2

Row 5: P8, turn.


Note: This tier leans to the left.

Row 6: Ssk, k5, ssk, turn.

Rectangles

Row 7: P7, turn.

With RS facing, pick up and knit 9 sts along the side of the first rectangle of tier 1, turn and work as follows:


Row 17: P9, p2tog, do not turn. Rectangles With WS facing, pick up and purl 10 sts along the side of the first base triangle, turn and work as follows: Row 1 (RS): K10, turn. Row 2: P9, p2tog (1 st from the first rectangle and 1 st from last base triangle), turn. Rep rows 1 and 2 to last base triangle; 10 sts on needle.

Row 1 (WS): P10, turn. Row 2: K9, ssk, turn. Rep rows 1 and 2 until all sts of first rectangle are worked, do not turn on last row 2. With RS facing, pick up and knit 10 sts along block below the needle tip. Rep rows 1 and 2 as for first rectangle. Work remaining rectangles along the row in this manner.

Ending edge triangle

Rep tiers 1 and 2 until desired length, ending with tier 1.

With WS still facing, pick up and purl 10 sts along edge of last base triangle.

Top triangles

Row 1 (RS): K10, turn.

Row 9: P6, turn. Row 10: Ssk, k3, ssk, turn. Row 11: P5, turn. Row 12: Ssk, k2, ssk, turn. Row 13: P4, turn. Row 14: Ssk, k1, ssk, turn. Row 15: P3, turn. Row 16: Ssk, ssk, turn. Row 17: P2, turn. Row 18: Sl 1 kwise with yarn in back, ssk, pass slipped st over st rem from ssk, do not turn; first top triangle completed; 1 st rem on right needle. *With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle, pick up and knit 9 sts down the side of the next block. Turn so WS is facing. Work rows 1–18 as for first top triangle. Rep from * across; 1 st rem. Break yarn and fasten off last st.


With RS still facing and 1 st on right needle, pick up and knit 9 sts down the side of the triangle just completed; 10 sts on right needle. Turn so WS is facing.

Row 5: K8, turn.

Row 1 (WS): P10, turn.



Finishing

Row 7: K7, turn.

Row 3: P9, turn.

Weave in ends.



Row 2: P8, p2tog, turn. Row 3: K9, turn.

;

Row 9: K6, turn. Row 10: P4, p2tog, turn. Row 11: K5, turn. Row 12: P3, p2tog, turn. Row 13: K4, turn. Row 14: P2, p2tog, turn. Row 15: K3, turn. Row 16: P1, p2tog, turn. Row 17: K2, turn. Row 18: P2tog, turn so RS is facing, slip 1 st from left needle to right needle-edge triangle completed.

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Texture Part 1: Ribbing

STITCH

Dictionary By Amy Polcyn Ribbing is generally thought of as a simple way to finish edges or make cuffs that fit snugly, but it can be so much more. In addition to the endless variety you can achieve by changing the number of knit and purl stitches in the repeat (k1, p1; k2, p2; and so on), the stitches themselves can be worked to produce decorative (and practical) effects. The stitches presented here were selected for their pronounced texture and bold appearance.

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Before we dive into our stitch sampler, let’s review a

Beyond the basic knit/purl ribbings, fancy ribbings behave

few ribbing basics. In general, the fewer stitches in each

in their own way, with some more elastic than others. In

repeat, the more the ribbing will contract (k1, p1 rib

the swatches below, all are worked with the same yarn,

will pull in more than k4, p4 rib, for example), with one

the same size needles, and 27 or 28 stitches wide, yet

caveat—k2, p2 ribbing contracts the most of all, approxi-

the finished swatches are very different in width, and as a

mately 40% narrower than stockinette.

result, are best suited for different types of projects.

Fisherman’s rib

Slip-stitch rib

Rickrack rib

The first swatch (above) is worked in fisherman’s rib, a pattern that has a tendency to not contract well at all (gauge of 4½ stitches to the inch on size 8 needles), but has a lush, squishy look and is equally attractive on both sides as well as warm and cozy. It also will not curl, even a little, making it an excellent choice for projects worked exclusively in ribbing that do not require a close fit. The trick here is “knitting in the stitch below,” a technique that involves inserting the needle into the center of the “V” one row below the stitches on the needle, then slipping the new stitch and the stitch on the needle off at the same time. Fisherman’s rib is perfect for blankets, cowls, and slouchy hats.

The narrowest ribbing, slip-stitch rib (above) pulls in the most, making it perfect for projects where a snug fit is desired such as cuffs, socks, and hat brims. The slipped stitches create a more pronounced “bump” in the knit sections, adding dimension and texture. These same slipped stitches cause the fabric to contract more dramatically, resulting a swatch that gives a gauge of 6¾ stitches to the inch on size 8 needles.

Rickrack rib (above) uses stitches knit and purled out of order to create a twisting, zig-zag look. The highly textured appearance causes the stitches to pull in moderately, giving a gauge of 5½ stitches to the inch on size 8 needles. The fabric is attractive on both sides, though the appearance is somewhat different on the wrong side. Rickrack rib works well in projects where strong elasticity is not required and a bit of flair is called for, such as scarves, wraps, and looserfitting hems.

(Multiple of 5 + 2 sts) Row 1 (WS): K2, *p3, k2; rep from * across. Row 2: P2, *k1, sl 1 pwise, k1, p2; rep from * across. Rep rows 1 and 2 for pat.

(Multiple of 2 sts)

(Multiple of 3 + 1 sts) Row 1 (RS): P1, *with right needle, skip first st on left needle, k1tbl, then knit into the front of the first st, slip both sts off needle, p1; rep from * across.

Row 2: *P1, knit 1 in the row below; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2.

Row 2: K1, *with right needle, skip first st on left needle, p1, then purl the first st, slip both sts off needle, k1; rep from * across.

Rep row 2 for pat.

Rep rows 1 and 2 for pat.

Row 1: Purl.

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STITCH

Dictionary

PROJECT IDEAS Ribbed throw

Cowl

Skill level: Easy

Skill level: Easy

Sizes: One size

Sizes: One size

Finished measurements: Approx 40" x 60"

Finished measurements: Approx 24" x 8"

Yarn weight:

4

Yarn weight:

4

Materials

Materials

• Approx 1500 yds worsted weight yarn

• Approx 300 yds worsted weight yarn

• U.S. size 8 (5mm) straight needles, or size required for gauge

• U.S. size 8 (5mm) straight needles, or size required for gauge

• Yarn needle

• Yarn needle

Gauge

Gauge

Varies depending on stitch pattern:

Varies depending on stitch pattern:

18 sts = 4" (10cm) in fisherman’s rib

18 sts = 4" (10cm) in fisherman’s rib

27 sts = 4" (10cm) in slip-stitch rib

27 sts = 4" (10cm) in slip-stitch rib

22 sts = 4" (10cm) in rickrack rib

22 sts = 4" (10cm) in rickrack rib

Throw

Cowl

Multiply stitch gauge for chosen pattern [4½ (6¾, 5½) sts per inch] times 40 to get cast-on number, then adjust as needed to be the correct multiple of sts [2 (5+2, 3+1) sts]. Work in chosen stitch pattern until piece measures 60" or desired length. Bind off.

Multiply stitch gauge for chosen pattern [4½ (6¾, 5½) sts per inch] times 24 to get cast-on number, then adjust as needed to be the correct multiple of sts [2 (5+2, 3+1) sts]. Work in chosen stitch pattern until piece measures 8" or desired length. Bind off.

Finishing

Finishing

Weave in ends. Block lightly.

Sew side edges tog. Weave in ends. Block lightly.

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17

LEARN

toKnit

Changing seasons hat and scarf Ready to move beyond scarves with garter and stockinette stitches? This simple repetitive pattern is easy to memorize. It moves one stitch every other row to create a lovely diagonal design that is enhanced by the subtle striping tones of the yarn. Once your initial hat and scarf set are complete, move to the next challenge with the women's slouchy hat. With the pattern worked on every row, this hat requires a bit more concentration, but it is the perfect next step as you continue on your knitting journey. Yarn: Eco Duo by Cascade Yarns

Designed by Jennifer Burt Size: One size Finished measurements: Hat: 20" circumference x 8" tall Scarf: 7" x 75" Yarn weight:

4

Materials for scarf and men's hat • 3 skeins Eco Duo by Cascade Yarns, 70% undyed baby alpaca, 30% undyed merino wool, (197 yds/100g) in color 1709 • U.S. size 8 (5mm) straight, 16" circular, and set of 5 DPNs, or size required for gauge • Stitch marker • Yarn needle

Row 7 and all odd rows: Knit. Row 8: K5, *p2, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k4. Row 10: K4, *p2, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, k5. Row 12: K3, *p2, k3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k6. Row 14: K3, p1, *k3, p2; rep from * to last 7 sts, k3, p1, k3. Rep rows 6–15 until scarf is 75" or desired length. Work in garter st for 5 rows. Bind off. Rnd 5: *P3, k2; rep from * around.

Gauge 18 sts and 24 rows = 4" (10cm) in pat

Scarf Skill level: Beginner

Finishing Weave in ends. Block.

Row 6 (WS): K6, p2, (k3, p2) 4 times, k3.

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Rnd 7: P2, *k2, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Rnd 9: P1, *k2, p3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.

Men’s hat

Rnd 11: *K2, p3; rep from * around.

Skill level: Easy

Rnd 13: K1, *p3, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, p3, k1.

Cast on 31 sts. Rows 1–5: Knit.

Rnd 6 and all even rnds: Knit.

Cast on 90 sts. Pm and join, being careful not to twist the sts. Rnds 1–4: *K3, p2; rep from * around.

Rep rnds 5–14 until piece measures approx 6" from beg, ending with rnd 14.


19

LEARN

toKnit Women's hat Cast on 90 sts. Pm and join, being careful not to twist the sts. Rnds 1–4: K3, p2. Shape crown

Women’s slouchy hat

Note: Change to DPNs when needed.

Rnd 5: *P3, k2; rep from * around. Rnd 6: P2, *k2, p3; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1.

Rnd 1: *P2, p2tog, k1; rep from * around; 72 sts.

Skill level: Easy


Size: One size

Rnd 3: P2, k1, *p3, k1; rep from * around to last st p1.

Finished measurements:

Rnd 5: P1, *k1, p1, p2tog; rep from * around to last 3 sts, k1, p2tog; 54 sts.

Yarn weight:

Rnd 7: P1, *k2, p3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2. Rnd 8: *K2, p3; rep from * around.

Hat: 20" circumference x 10" tall 4

Rnd 9: K1, *p3, k2; rep from * to last 4 sts, p3, k1. Rep rnds 5–9 until hat measures approx 8" from beg, ending with rnd 9.

Rnd 7: *K1, p2; rep from * around. Rnd 9: *K2tog, k1; rep from * around; 36 sts. Rnd 11: Knit. Rnd 13: *K2tog; rep from * around; 18 sts. Rnd 15: Knit. Rnd 17: *K2tog; rep from * around; 9 sts.

Finishing Draw yarn through rem sts, pull tight and secure. Weave in ends. Block lightly.

20


Materials

Shape crown

• 1 skein Eco Duo by Cascade Yarns, 70% undyed baby alpaca, 30% undyed merino wool, (197 yds/100g) in color 1711

Note: Change to DPNs when needed.

• U.S. size 8 (5mm) 16" circular needle and set of 5 DPNs or size required for gauge

Rnd 2 and all even rnds: Purl.

Rnd 1: *P2tog,* p14, (p2tog) twice; rep from * around to last 2 sts p2tog; 80 sts.

• Yarn needle

Rnd 3: P2tog, *p12, (p2tog) twice; rep from * around to last 2 sts, p2tog; 70 sts.

Gauge


18 sts and 24 rows = 4" (10cm) in pat


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Rnd 9: P2tog, *p6, (p2tog) twice; rep from * around to last 2 sts, p2tog; 40 sts. Rnd 11: P2tog, *p4, (p2tog) twice; rep from * around to last 2 sts, p2tog; 30 sts. Rnd 13: P2tog, *p2, (p2tog) twice; rep from * around to last 2 sts, p2tog; 20 sts. Rnd 14: P2tog around; 10 sts.

Finishing Draw yarn through rem sts, pull tight and secure. Weave in ends. Block lightly. ;

Natural Fiber Yarns from Our Hands to Yours

a worker-owned cooperative

in your Local Yarn Shop or www.spinnery.com 800-321-9665

PO Box 568 ~ Putney, Vermont

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21

/ Herringbone skirt An elegant herringbone pattern marvelously compliments the flattering A-line shape of this chic skirt. The texture of the stitch pattern creates a decorative feminine scalloped hem that looks more difficult than it is. Yarn: Rimu 4-ply Fingering Weight by Zealana

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/ / Designed by Shirley MacNulty Skill level: Intermediate Sizes: Women’s Extra Small (Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large) Finished measurements: Waist: 26¼ (28¼, 32¼, 36½, 40¼)", before elastic

of the st below the next st on the left needle and knit it, then knit the st on the left needle.

from * to last st, k1; 123 (133, 143, 163, 173) sts.

Skirt front and back (make 2) Cast on 135 (146, 157, 179, 190) sts. Starting with a WS row, work in seed st for 2 rows. Purl 1 row.

Part 2

Length: 25 (26, 26, 26, 26)" Hem circumference: 41 (44¼, 47¾, 54½, 57¾)" Yarn weight:

2

Herringbone pat

• 6 (7, 8, 10, 11) skeins Rimu 4-ply Fingering Weight by Zealana, 60% New Zealand merino, 40% possum, (167 yds/40g) in color R13 Toto Red

Row 1 (RS): K1, *k2tog, k3, HI, k4; rep from * to last 2 st, k2. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, *k4, HI, k3, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Part 1

Row 4: Purl.

Row 1 (RS): K1, *k2tog, k4, HI, k4; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

Rep rows 1–4 until piece measures 12 (13, 14, 15, 15)”, ending after row 2.

Row 2: Purl.

Materials

Next row: Purl.

Row 3: K2, *k4, HI, k4, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Second dec row: K2, *k8, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1; 111 (120, 129, 147, 156) sts.

Row 4: Purl. Rep rows 1–4 until piece measures 7 (8, 9, 10, 10)”, ending after row 2. First dec row: K2, *k9, k2tog; rep

Part 3 Row 1 (RS): K1, *k2tog, k3, HI, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.

• U.S. size 4 (3.5mm) 24" circular needle, or size required for gauge • Yarn needle • ¾"-wide elastic, cut 1" longer than waist measurement • 2 safety pins • Sewing needle and thread

Gauge 26 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10cm) in pat

Special abbreviation Herringbone increase (HI): Insert tip of right needle into the purl bump

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/ Sizes extra small and small Row 1 (RS): K1, *k2tog, k2, HI, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, *k2, HI, k2, k2 tog; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 4: Purl. Rep rows 1–4 until piece measures 25 (26)”, ending with a RS row. Size medium Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2tog, k2, HI, k2] 4 times, [k2tog, k2, HI, k3] 6 times, [k2tog, k2, HI, k2] 4 times, k2. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, [k2, HI, k2, k2tog] 4 times, [k3, HI, k2, k2tog] 6 times, [k2, HI, k2, k2tog] 4 times, k1. Row 4: Purl. Rep rows 1–4 until piece measures 26”, ending with a RS row. Size large

Fourth dec row:


Sizes extra small and small: K2, *k6, k2tog, rep from * until last st, k1; 87 (94) sts. Purl next row.

Third dec row: K2, *k7, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1; 99 (107, 115, 131, 139) sts.

Size medium: K2, [k6, k2tog] 4 times, [k3, HI, k2, k2tog] 6 times, [k6, k2tog] 4 times, k1; 107 sts. Purl next row.

Part 4 Row 1 (RS): K1, *k2tog, k2, HI, k3; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, *k3, HI, k2, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.

Size large: K2, [k6, k2tog] 5 times, [k3, HI, k2, k2tog] 6 times, [k6, k2tog] 5 times, k1; 121 sts. Purl next row. Size extra large: K2, [k6, k2tog] 3 times, [k3, HI, k2, k2tog] 11 times, [k6, k2tog] 3 times, k1; 133 sts. Purl next row.

Row 2: Purl.

26¼ (28¼, 32¼, 36½, 40¼)˝

)˝

Row 4: Purl.

Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2tog, k2, HI, k2] 5 times, [k2tog, k2, HI, k3] 6 times, [k2tog, k2, HI, k2] 5 times, k2.

6, 26, 26

Row 3: K2, *k3, HI, k3, k2tog; rep from * to last st, k1.


Front & back

25 (26, 2

Row 2: Purl.

Row 4: Purl. Herringbone skirt

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// Row 3: K2, [k2, HI, k2, k2tog] 5 times, [k3, HI, k2, k2tog] 6 times, [k2, HI, k2, k2tog] 5 times, k1. Row 4: Purl. Rep rows 1–4 until piece measures 26”, ending with a RS row. Size extra large Row 1 (RS): K1, [k2tog, k2, HI, k2] 3 times, [k2tog, k2, HI, k3] 11 times, [k2tog, k2, HI, k2] 3 times, k2. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K2, [k2, HI, k2, k2tog] 3 times, [k3, HI, k2, k2tog] 11 times, [k2, HI, k2, k2tog] 3 times, k1.

All sizes Next (turning) row (WS): Knit. Work in St st for 8 rows. Bind off loosely knitwise on RS, leaving at least a 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)” tail.

Finishing Block. Sew side seams, leaving one seam open from turning row to bind off. Fold waistband to WS along turning row, sew in place. Using safety pin, thread elastic through casing. Overlap ends by 1¼”. Sew ends tog. Sew opening closed. Weave in ends. ;

Row 4: Purl. Rep rows 1–4 until piece measures 26”, ending with a RS row.

52 of

W E E K S

yarn

Having a hard time deciding which yarns to use for that knit project? Our online feature 52 Weeks of Yarn is here to help!

Each week we review a different yarn and offer tips, hints, and ideas to turn that yarn into your next delightful knit! Go to www.loveofknitting.com and click on Yarn.

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Ribbed and ruffled Ruffles add fun to every outfit, and these ruffles are easy to add with simple decreases. Once the ruffles are complete, the body of the vest is knit in one piece with a basic rib pattern that creates slimming vertical stripes. Yarn: 2nd Time Cotton by Knit One Crochet Too

Designed by Kennita Tully Skill level: Easy Sizes: Women’s Extra Small (Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X, 3X) Finished measurements: Bust: 32½ (36¼, 40, 43¾, 48, 52, 56¼)" Length: 18 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23½, 25)” Yarn weight:

4

i

Materials

Gauge

• 3 (4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10) skeins 2nd Time Cotton by Knit One Crochet Too, 75% recycled cotton, 25% acrylic, (180 yds/100g) in color 642 Deep Aqua

21½ sts and 25 rows= 4" (10cm) in rib pat

• U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) 47–60" circular needle, or size required for gauge

Edging

• U.S size C-2 (2.5mm) crochet hook • Yarn needle

Stitch patterns Row 1: (RS) *P3, k9; rep from *, end p3. Row 2: *K3, p9; rep from *, end k3.

• Stitch markers

Row 3: *P3, ssk, k5, k2tog; rep from *, end p3.

• 5/8" buttons, 3 total

Row 4: *K3, p7; rep from *, end k3. Row 5: *P3, ssk, k3, k2tog; rep from *, end p3. Row 6: *K3, p5; rep from *, end k3. Row 7: *P3, ssk, k1, k2tog; rep from *, end p3. Row 8: *K3, p3; rep from *, end k3. Row 9: *P3, sl 1, k2tog, psso; rep from *, end p3. Row 10: *K3, p1; rep from *, end k3. Rib Row 1 (RS): *P3, k1; rep from *, end p3. Row 2: *K3, p1; rep from *, end k3. Rep rows 1 and 2 for pat.

Body Cast on 519 (579, 639, 699, 771, 831, 903) sts and work edging pat

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27

i once; 175 (195, 215, 235, 259, 279, 303) sts rem. Beg rib pat and work even until piece measures approx 10 (10½, 11, 11½, 12, 12½, 13)". Divide for armholes

Shape neck

Shape shoulders At shoulder edges bind off 6 (6, 7, 8, 8, 8, 9) sts 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 2, 2) times and 5 (7, 6, 7, 0, 9, 10) sts 1 time; 27 (29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 41) sts rem along back neck. Bind off back neck sts on next row.

neck shaping and approx 2" apart below thereafter. Work crochet trim as for armholes around front edges, working ch 3, skip 2 sts for button loops. Weave in ends. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes. ;

5 (5½, 5¾, 6, 6¾, 7¼, 7½)˝

Front & back

Finishing Weave in ends. Sew shoulder seams. Work 1 rnd of single crochet, then 1 rnd of rev single crochet around armholes. Mark buttonhole placement, starting just below beg of

28


1˝

Dec 1 st at each neck edge every row 2 times, then every RS row 11 (12, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20) times; 17 (19, 20, 23, 24, 25, 28) sts rem. Work even until armholes measure 7 (7½, 8, 8½, 9, 10, 11)", ending with a WS row.

10 (10½, 11, 7 (7½, 8, 11½, 12, 8½, 9, 12½, 13)˝ 10, 11)˝

Work in pat across first 36 (39, 44, 48, 52, 55, 60) sts, join 2nd ball of yarn and bind off next 15 (19, 21, 23, 27, 31, 33) sts, work in pat across next 73 (79, 85, 93, 101, 107, 117) sts, join new ball of yarn, bind off 15 (19, 21, 23, 27, 31, 33) sts and work across rem 36 (39, 44, 48, 52, 55, 60) sts. Working each section at once, dec 1 st at each armhole edge every RS row 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) times, then every other RS row 2 times; 30 (33, 37, 41, 44, 46, 50) front sts rem on each side, 61 (67, 71, 79, 85, 89, 97) back sts rem. At the same time, when armholes measure approx 3", shape neck on front sections.

32½ (36¼, 40, 43¾, 48, 52, 56¼)˝ Ribbed and ruffled

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the knittingshop Knitting Chart Keeper by Knit Picks Effortlessly keep track of your place when knitting from a chart with this clever chart keeper. Strong magnetic strips securely hold your pattern in place to ensure you will always know which line of the chart you are working. The different magnet lengths make it easy to find a length that works perfectly with your current project. Two clever designs make this case special. One is the interior pockets that store your chart when not in use. And the other is that when the case is inverted, it becomes an easel, making your chart even easier to read. Retail: $14.99 Closed size: 9½" x 6¼" www.knitpicks.com

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4” Interchangeable Needle Set by Hiya Hiya Different projects require different needles, and this interchangeable set has sizes for every project. With tips ranging in size from US 2 to US 8 (2.75mm to 5mm) and four included cable lengths 16", 24", 32", and 40", you can easily create a circular needle perfect for your current project. Choose from bamboo tips, sharp steel tips, or standard steel tips to construct your ideal needle. Using a keyless screw on the connections and swivel cables, it is easy to lock the needle tip into place using the included set of needle grips. Every set comes in a beautiful and portable brocade case, complete with small pockets to hold each set of tips, a small zippered pouch to store the needle grips and other notions, and a large exterior pocket to hold the connecting cables when not in use. Carry this case and you will always have needles for your next project close at hand. Retail: $79.90 www.hiyahiyanorthamerica.com

peek-a-bootz by Viewz We spend hours selecting the perfect color of yarn to beautifully compliment the pattern in every pair of hand knit socks, not to mention the actual hours of knitting time required to finish each pair. It is a pity that socks are hidden in shoes. Hide your socks no longer with these brilliant clear boots. Because they are extremely comfortable, they will quickly become your go-to shoe choice when the weather is cool and wet. You’ll be the envy of your friends with these fabulous boots! Retail: $59.99 Women’s sizes: 7, 8, and 9 www.viewzstore.com

Correction: Made by Hand By Mary Ellen’s Featured in our Summer 2012 issue, we regret that we included an incorrect retail price in our product review. The correct retail price is: $7.95, for more information please see www.maryellenproducts.com

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Raspberry treat Wrap yourself in heavenly soft yarn and a delicious color. The easy pattern and simple shape will have this cowl quickly off your needles and around your neck. Yarn: DeAire by Plymouth Yarn

c c

Designed by Melissa Leapman Skill level: Easy Size: One size Finished measurements: 12" x 45" Yarn weight:

6

Materials

Cowl

• 2 hanks DeAire by Plymouth Yarn, 100% merino wool, (109 yds/100g) in color 713

With waste yarn, cast on 27 sts using a provisional method. With project yarn, work in mistake rib until piece measures approx 45", ending with a WS row. Do not bind off.

• U.S. size 15 (10mm) needles, or size required for gauge • Waste yarn • Yarn needle

Finishing

Gauge

Block to measurements. Join cast on and bind off rows using Kitchener st. Weave in ends.

9 sts and 12 rows = 4" (10cm) in mistake rib

Stitch pattern Mistake rib Row 1 (RS): *K2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Rep row 1 for pat.

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Optional beginner's cowl version In place of the provisional cast on, use your favorite method to cast on 27 sts. Work in mistake rib until piece measures approx 45" and bind off. Sew cast-on and bound-off edges together. ;


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{ Pine needle shrug The rich gem-tone color of the yarn and the love of bobbles and nupps inspired the design of this fanciful shrug. Two neckline and hemline finishes provide you with different wearing options. Wear it as the ideal finishing accessory to your outfit or as a wrap on cool fall evenings. Yarns: Bulky and Llama Sparkle by Red Barn Yarn Stitch patterns Designed by Catherine Pettiti

Row 1 (RS): [P1, k7] twice, p1.


Row 2: K1, p6, k1, p1, k1, p6, k1.

Size: One size Finished measurements: 38" at widest point Yarn weight:

5

and

Double herringbone (DH)

4

Materials • 4 skeins Bulky by Red Barn Yarn, 85% wool,15% mohair (125 yds/4oz) in color Pine Forest • 2 skeins Llama Sparkle by Red Barn Yarn, 95% bably llama, 5% stellina (273 yds/125g ) in color Pine Forest

Row 3: P1, k5, [p1, k1] twice, p1, k5, p1.

Row 10: K2, p13, k2. Row 11: P1, k15, p1. Row 12: K1, p15, k1. Rep rows 1–12 for pat.

Row 4: K1, p4, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, p4, k1.

Triangle motif (TM)

Row 5: P1, k3, [p1, k1] twice, k1, [k1, p1] twice, k3, p1.

Row 2: [P3, k2] twice, p3.

Row 6: K1, p2, [k1, p1] twice, p3, [p1, k1] twice, p2, k1.

Row 4: P1, k4, p3, k4, p1.

Row 1 (RS): K4, p1, k3, p1, k4. Row 3: K2, p3, k3, p3, k2.

Row 7: [P1, k1] 3 times, k5, [k1, p1] 3 times.

Row 5: P5, k3, p5.

Row 8: K2, p1, k1, p9, k1, p1, k2.

Row 7: K2, p3, k3, p3, k2.

Row 9: [P1, k1] twice, k9, [k1, p1] twice.

Row 8: [P3, k2] twice, p3.

Row 6: P1, k4, p3, k4, p1.


• U.S. size 11 (8mm) needles, or size required for gauge • Yarn needle

Gauge 8½ sts and 12 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st with both yarns held tog

Special abbreviations MN (make nupp): See sidebar on page 38.

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35

Row 19: K1, kfb, k2, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, kfb, k1; 73 sts. Row 21: K1, kfb, k4, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, kfb, k1; 75 sts. Row 23: K1, kfb, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, kfb, k1; 77 sts. Row 25: K1, kfb, K2, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, kfb, k1; 79 sts. Row 27: K1, kfb, purl to last 2 sts, kfb, k1; 81 sts. Row 28: Knit. Row 29: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1; 83 sts. Row 31: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, kfb, k1; 85 sts. Row 33: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1; 83 sts. Row 35: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1; 81 sts. Row 37: K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1; 79 sts. Row 39–46: Rep rows 37 and 38; 71 sts. Rows 47 and 48: Knit. Row 49: K1, k2tog, k9, pm, row 1 DH, pm, row 1 TM, pm, row 1 DH, pm, k9, ssk, k1; 69 sts. Row 50: P11, row 2 DH, row 2 TM, row 2 DH, p11.

Shrug Cast on 55 sts. Work in St st, inc 1 st each end of row (use kfb) every RS row for 11 rows, ending with a RS row. Row 12 (WS): Knit. Row 13: K1, kfb, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to last 3 sts, kfb, k1; 67 sts. Row 14: Knit. Rows 15 and 16: Work in St st, inc 1 st each end of row; 69 sts. Row 17: K1, kfb, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 6 sts, k4, kfb, k1; 71 sts. Row 18 and all WS rows except row 28 through row 46: Purl.

36

Love of Knitting | FFall 2012

Row 51: K1, k2tog, k8, row 3 DH, row 3 TM, row 3 DH, k8, ssk, k1; 67 sts. Row 52: P10, row 4 DH, row 4 TM, row 4 DH, p10. Row 53: K1, k2tog, k7, row 5 DH, row 5 TM, row 5 DH, k7, ssk, k1; 65 sts. Row 54: P9, row 6 DH, row 6 TM, row 6 DH, p9. Row 55: K1, k2tog, k6, row 7 DH, row 7 TM, row 7 DH, k6, ssk, k1; 63 sts. Row 56: P8, row 8 DH, row 8 TM, row 8 DH, p8. Row 57: K1, k2tog, k5, row 9 DH, row 1 TM, row 9 DH, k5, ssk, k1; 61 sts.

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{ Row 58: P7, row 10 DH, row 2 TM, row 10 DH, p7.

Row 76: P16, row 4 DH, row 4 TM, row 4 DH, p16.

Row 59: K1, kfb, k5, row 11 DH, row 3 TM, row 11 DH, k5, kfb, k1; 63 sts.




Row 97: K1, k2tog, k1, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, ssk, k1; 65 sts.



Row 99: K1, k2tog, k1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, ssk, k1; 63 sts.



Row 100: P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1.


Row 81: K1, k2tog, k15, row 9 DH, row 1 TM, row 9 DH, k15, ssk, k1; 81 sts.

Row 101–106: Rep rows 99 and 100.


Row 95: K1, k2tog, k1, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 5 sts, MN, k1, ssk, k1; 67 sts.

Row 107: Rep row 99. Bind off.


Finishing


Row 83: K1, k2tog, k14, row 11 DH, row 3 TM, row 11 DH, k14, ssk, k1; 79 sts.

Fold in half lengthwise. Sew seams to arm opening. Rib edge can be worn as the collar or the hem as desired. ;




Row 85: K1, k2tog, k29, p1, row 5 TM, p1, k29, ssk, k1; 77 sts.


Row 86: P31, k1, row 6 TM, k1, p31.



Row 87: K1, k2tog, k28, p1, row 7 TM, p1, k28, ssk, k1; 75 sts. Row 88: P30, k1, row 8 TM, k1, p30.

Row 71: K1, kfb, k11, row 11 DH, row 7 TM, row 11 DH, k11, kfb, k1 (75 sts)

Row 89: K1, k2tog, k1, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, ssk, k1; 73 sts.


Rows 90, 92, 94, 96, 98: Purl.

Row 73: K1, kfb, k12, row 1 DH, row 1 TM, row 1 DH, k12, kfb, k1; 77 sts. Row 74: P15, row 2 DH, row 2 TM, row 2 DH, p15. Row 75: K1, kfb, k13, row 3 DH, row 3 TM, row 3 DH, k13, kfb, k1; 79 sts.

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Row 91: K1, k2tog, k1, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, ssk, k1; 71 sts. Row 93: K1, k2tog, k1, *MN, k5; rep from * to last 7 sts, MN, k1, ssk, k1; 69 sts.


37

How to KNIT A NUPP

A

B

In the next stitch on the left needle, knit one (photo A); without removing the stitch from the left needle, knit into the back of the stitch (photo B). Again without removing the stitch from the left needle, knit one into the front of the stitch (photo C) and back of the C stitch (photo D), creating 4 stitches on right needle. Remove the stitch from the left needle.

E

D

F

G

H

One by one, pass the stitch furthest to the right over the other stitches (photos, E, F, G, and H) until only one stitch remains, completing the nupp (photo I).

I

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loveofknitting.com

A

A

A

A

Twisted stitch pullover From stitches that travel, twist, or are knit through the back loop, every stitch in this sweater is a knitting lesson. You will learn how different textures are created when you twist your stitches. Make a masculine sweater he’ll enjoy wearing almost as much as you'll enjoy knitting it. Yarn: 2-ply worsted weight by Beaverslide Dry Goods Designed by Jack Johnson, A Thinking Man Knits Skill level: Advanced Sizes: Men’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large)

Gauge 15½ sts and 23 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st 18 sts and 21 rows = 4" (10cm) in pat

Finished measurements: Chest: 40 (43, 49, 52)" Length: 30" Yarn weight:

4

Special abbreviations LT (left twist): Skip 1 st, knit through back loop of next st, do not drop st from needle, knit skipped st, drop both sts from needle.

MCT (mock cable twist): Skip 1 st, knit through back loop of next st, do not drop st from needle, knit through back loop of skipped st, drop both sts from needle.

Stitch patterns See charts.

Special technique Braided cast on Holding MC and CC yarns together, tie a temporary knot and place it on top of 24" needle with MC on far side of needle and CC on near side. This does not count as the first stitch. Hold yarns in left hand as for long-tail cast on. Using the long-tail cast on method, cast-on first stitch with MC. Before making next stitch, switch the yarns clockwise by placing the yarn that was on the thumb onto the forefinger and the one that

Materials • 7 (8, 9, 10) skeins 2-ply worsted weight by Beaverslide Dry Goods, 90% merino, 10% kid mohair, (241 yds/113g) in color Autumn Haze (MC) • 1 skein Shelter by Brooklyn Tweed, 100% Targhee-Columbia wool, worsted weight, (140 yds/50g), in color Pumpernickel (CC) • U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) 16" and 24" circular and set of 5 DPNs, or size required for gauge • Stitch holder • Locking and regular stitch markers • Yarn needle

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41

A had been on the forefinger onto the thumb. Cast on next stitch using CC. Continue in this way, switching yarns after every cast-on stitch until desired number of stitches have been cast on to create the braided effect. Allow temporary knot to drop off needle. For a detailed tutorial on the braided cast-on, please visit us online at www.loveofknitting.com.

Body Note: Chevron pat must be knit on a multiple of 6 sts minus 1 st for first

10 rnds and a multiple of 6 sts plus 2 sts on last 9 rnds. Except for rnd 11 pat is (sl 3 wyif, k3). Slip beg marker without changing its position and slip or knit past it as pat calls for. On rnd 11, sl 1, M1 [2 times], k1, sl 3. Ignore “M1s” when you return to chart and revert to (sl 3 wyif, k3). “M1s” are necessary so slipped sts can reverse back to create chevron pat. With 24" needle and MC and CC, cast on 161 (173, 185, 197) sts using braided cast on (see Special technique). Join, being careful not to twist the sts. Break CC.

Work rnds 1–10 of chart A. Work rnd 11 of chart A; 163 (175, 187, 199) sts. Work rnds 12–20 of chart A. Set up for pat Next rnd: Pm for beg of rnd, *work chart B, work chart C, work chart B, work chart C, work chart B*, p2tog, work 1 (3, 5, 7) repeat(s) of chart E, rep between * and *, p1, work 1 (3, 5, 7) repeats of chart E; 162 (174, 186, 198) sts. Pm on each side of 2 knit sts of first (2nd, 3rd, 4th) MCT worked in chart E. Note: Mark or otherwise note 2nd working of chart B as center front and 5th as center back. Work 71 (71, 35, 35) rnds. Sizes small and medium: Beg gusset shaping on page 43. Sizes large and extra large: Beg side shaping below. Side shaping Note: When there are 4 purl sts on each side of each marked MCT, work 2 middle sts of each set of 4 as a MCT on following rnd. Next rnd: *Knit to marked MCT, M1p, knit MCT, M1p*, rep between * and * from asterisk, knit to end; (190, 202) sts. Work 5 rnds. Rep last 6 rnds [2 times]; (198, 210) sts. Work 24 rnds. Next rnd: Beg gusset shaping on page 43.

Sleeves Note: A left twist panel (chart B) flanked by 1 purl st is worked from welt to neck and forms saddle. Change from DPNs to 16” circular needle when able. With DPNs and MC and CC, cast on 41 (41, 47, 47) using braided cast

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19

5

17

3

15

1 15

13

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Chart B 11

on. Join, being careful not to twist the sts. Break CC.

9

Work rnds 1–10 of chart A. Work rnd 11 of chart A; 43 (43, 49, 49) sts. Work rnds 12–20 of chart A.

7

5

5

3

3

1 15

Set up for pat Next rnd: Pm for beg of rnd, work chart B, p1, work 9 (9, 11, 11) repeats of chart E. Pm on each side of 2 knit sts of 5th (5th, 6th, 6th) MCT worked in chart E. Note: When there are 4 purl sts on each side of marked MCT, work 2 middle sts as a new MCT on following rnd.

1 5

3

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Chart C

1

Chart A 5

Key

M1p

K

Sl st wyf

P

MCT

M1

LT

3 1 3 2 1

Chart E

Work 4 rnds.

33

Next rnd: Knit to marked MCT, M1p, knit MCT, M1p, knit to end; 45 (45, 51, 51) sts. Work 5 rnds.

Large / extra large

31 29

Sizes small and medium: Rep last 6 rnds [9 times]; 63 (63) sts. Work 11 rnds, beg gusset shaping.

27

Sizes large and extra large: Rep last 6 rnds [11 times]; 73 (73) sts, beg gusset shaping.

23

25

21 19

Gusset

17

Note: Design is a mock cable twist (MCT) on a field of reverse St st. One half of each gusset is formed at top of sleeve and other half at top of side section of body. A portion of gusset sts will be placed on a holder and, once yoke and collar are worked, those sts will be grafted tog in pat.

Small / medium

15 13 11 9 7

Body gussets

5

Next rnd: *Knit to 1 st before marked MCT, work chart D for size*, rep between * and *, knit to end. Work chart D to end; 182 (194, 222, 234) sts.

3 1 29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

Chart D Twisted stitch pullover

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Sleeve gussets Next rnd: Knit to 1 st before marked MCT, work chart D for size, knit to end. Work chart D to end; 73 (73, 85, 85) sts. Place center 12 (12, 14, 14) gusset sts of sleeve and body gussets on a holder; 158 (170, 194, 206) body sts, 61 (61, 71, 71) sleeve sts.

Yoke Note: Place locking markers in first and last sts (not beside) of both front and back. Marked sts will form line of saddle-shoulder shaping. You will first dec into body sts, then turn and dec into sleeve sts, then turn again to dec body sts, and turn again to shape back of neck. Marked sts are part of body count, not sleeve or saddle count. Work any partial repeats as fully as possible in pat, then knit remainder for left-twist pat and purl remainder for mock-cabletwist pat.

Assemble body and sleeves

Switch direction of line

Shape saddles

Next rnd: Knit across front, knit across first sleeve, knit across back, knit across 2nd sleeve; 280 (292, 336, 348) sts. Work 5 rnds.

Next rnd: Knit to first marked st, ssk, knit to 1 st before 2nd marked st, k2tog, knit to 3rd marked st, ssk, knit to 1 st before 4th marked st, k2tog; 260 (272, 300, 304) sts.

Note: Working an odd-numbered rnd, knit across front and work each saddle, one at a time, back and forth, decreasing body sts. Slip all first sts purlwise.

Shape shoulders

Rep last rnd 22 (22, 26, 26) times more; 172 (184, 196, 200) sts.

Next rnd: Knit across front to 1 st before first marked st, k2tog, knit to 2nd marked st, ssk; 130 (142, 154, 158) sts. Turn; work only on right saddle.

Establish saddle-shoulder line: Next rnd: Knit to 1 st before first marked st, k2tog, knit to 2nd marked st, ssk, knit to 1 st before 3rd marked st, k2tog, knit to 4th marked st, ssk; 276 (288, 332, 344) sts. Rep last rnd 3 (3, 7, 9) times more; 264 (276, 304, 308) sts.

Switch direction of line Next rnd: Knit across front to 1 st before first marked st, k2tog, knit to 2nd marked st, ssk, knit to 1 st before 3rd marked st, k2tog, knit to 4th marked st, ssk; 168 (180, 192, 196) sts. Rep last rnd [9 times]; 132 (144, 156, 160) sts.

Next row (WS): Purl to first marked st, p2tog; 129 (141, 153, 157) sts. Next row: Knit to 2nd marked st, ssk; 128 (140, 152, 156) sts. Rep last 2 rows 6 (8, 8, 9) times more; 116 (124, 136, 138) sts. Cont across back to 1 st before 3rd marked st, k2tog, knit to 4th st, ssk; 114 (122, 134, 136) sts. Turn; work only on left saddle.

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A A Next row: Knit to 4th marked st, ssk; 112 (120, 132, 134) sts.

Collar Resume working in the rnd on 89 (95, 101, 101) sts. Work rnds 1–10 of chart A.

Rep last 2 rows 6 (8, 8, 9) times more; 100 (104, 116, 116) sts.

Work rnd 11 of chart A; 91 (97, 103, 103) sts.

Turn, purl to 3rd marked st, p2tog; 99 (103, 115, 115) sts.

Work rnds 12–20 of chart A.

Shape back of neck saddle Note: Raise back of neck by treating those sts as a broad shallow saddle that will dec into shoulder saddles. Slip all first sts purlwise. From 3rd marked st, purl across back to 2nd marked st, p2tog; 98 (102, 114, 114) sts. Turn, knit across back to 3rd marked st, ssk; 97 (101, 113, 113) sts. Rep last 2 rows 4 (3, 6, 6) times more; 89 (95, 101, 101) sts.

Collar facing

3½ (3½, 4½, 5)˝

7 (8, 9, 9)˝

3½ (3½, 4½, 5)˝

14 (15, 18, 18½)˝

Next (turning) rnd: Purl. Next rnd: With CC, work in St st for 10 rnds. Do not bind off; fold facing to WS and sew live sts in place.

20 (21½, 24½, 26)˝ 28”

Next row (WS): Purl to 3rd marked st, p2tog; 113 (121, 133, 135) sts.

Front & back

Finishing Graft underarm sts using Kitchener st. Weave in ends. Block. ;

2˝ 31 (33, 36, 38)˝

Sleeve

16 (16, 17, 17)˝

17 (17, 18, 18)˝

2˝ 8˝ Twisted stitch pullover

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Trimmed in trinity The superb trinity stitch adds dds a striking edging to this graceful cardigan. Increasing and decreasing three stitches in each row forms the exceptional popcorn texture. Work the trim in the same colored l red yarn and let the texture shine, or use a contrasting color for a stunning finish. finish. Yarn: Custom Spun Light Worsted Weight by Glenfiddich Yarn Designed by Barbara Condon and Kathleen England of Glenfiddich Wool Skill level: Easy Sizes: Women’s Extra Small (Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large) Finished measurements: Bust: Approx 34 (36, 39, 41, 43)" Length: 18 (18, 19, 20, 20)" Yarn weight:

3

Materials

Back

• 3 skeins custom spun light worsted weight by Glenfiddich Yarn in colors Silver Lining (A) and 1 skein in Dusk (B) (for pink version, 3 skeins in color Light Pink Rose)

With larger needles and A, cast on 78 (83, 88, 93, 98) sts. Work in St st until piece measures 18 (18, 19, 20, 20)". Bind off.

• U.S. size 8 (5mm) needles, or size required for gauge • U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) 24" circular needle • Button

Right front With larger needles and A, cast on 36 (39, 41, 43, 45) sts. Work in St st until piece measures 9½ (9½, 10½, 11½, 11½)", ending with a WS row.

• Yarn needle Shape neck

Gauge 18 sts and 23 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st using larger needles

Row 1 (RS): Bind off 14 (14, 16, 17, 17) sts at neck edge, knit to end. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: Knit.

Stitch pattern

Row 4: Purl.

Trinity

Row 5: K1, k2tog, knit to end. Cont in St st dec 1 st at neck edge every 4 rows 3 times more; 18 (21, 21, 22, 24) sts. Work even until piece measures same as back. Bind off.

Row 1 (WS): K1, *(k1, p1, k1) into next st, p3tog; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 2: Purl. Row 3: K1, *p3tog, (k1, p1, k1) into next st; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 4: Purl. Rep rows 1–4 for pat.

Left front Work as for right front, reversing all shaping. Sew shoulder seams.

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> >> Work in trinity st for 5 rows. Row 6 (buttonhole): P3, bind off 2 sts, purl to end of row. Row 7: Work in trinity st, casting on 2 sts over gap to close buttonhole. Row 8: Purl. Rows 9–14: Work in trinity st. Left front

Sleeves Measure 9 (9, 9½, 9½, 10)" down the front and the back on each side of the shoulder seam for sleeves and mark. With larger needles and A, pick up and knit 62 (62, 64, 64, 66) sts between markers for sleeve. Work in St st for 15 rows. Next (dec) row (RS): K1, k2tog, k2tog, knit to last 5 sts, k2tog, k2tog, k1; 4 sts dec.

Row 15: Purl.

Work as for right front.

Row 16: Knit. Row 17: Purl. Bind off loosely.

Collar With smaller needle and B, beg at top of right front lapel, pick up and knit 48 (48, 52, 56, 56) sts to the shoulder seam. Then pick up and knit 34 (34, 38, 42, 42) sts across back neck, and 48 (48, 52, 56, 56) sts to the top of the left front lapel.

With smaller needle and B, knit sts from right front holder. On the same row, pick up and knit 8 sts from right edge of collar. Work in St st for 3 rows. Bind off loosely. Rep on left edge of collar. Weave in ends. Block. Sew button opposite buttonhole. ;

Work in St st for 3 rows. Next (dec) row (RS): K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1; 2 sts dec. Rep last 4 rows to a total of 60 (60, 64, 66, 66) rows. Bind off.

9 (9, 9½, 9½, 10)˝

Sleeve Set in sleeves, sew side and sleeve seams.

Lapels and collar Right front Beg at lower edge just above the rolled edge, with smaller needle and B, pick up and knit 34 (34, 38, 42, 42) sts. Work in trinity st for 14 rows. Purl next row, place sts on holder.

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12 (12, 13, 13½, 13½)˝

17 (18, 19½, 20½, 21½)˝ Front & back 9½ (9½, 10½, 11½, 11½)˝

18 (18, 19, 20, 20)˝

Finishing

Trimmed in trinity

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booksfor knitters by Ruth Moline

Knitting Circles Around Mittens and More

Knitting Scandinavian Slippers and Socks

by Antje Gillingham

by Laura Farson

Fingerless, five-fingered. Convertible, daytime, evening, sporty. In the area of warm handwear, this book has something for everyone. If you have ever had thrummed mittens you know how warm, dry, and toasty they keep your hands. Basic fingerless mittens patterns features an excellent photographic tutorial on making them two-at-a-time, thus avoiding that “second syndrome” some may experience with fingerwear (or footwear!). Two hats, one scarf, and an abundance of warm handwear make this book a real treat for a knitter’s hands.

Colorwork enthusiasts will love this book. It gives you a grand start to twisted knitting with charts and patterns, comprehensive instructions, and clearly drawn illustrations. The first slipper tutorial smartly uses different background colors to show off the different sections of slipper construction and includes many photographs that clearly show what needs to be done. For beautifully shod feet, the charted patterns range from the simplicity of squares to the gorgeous snowflakes.

94 pages, softcover, $24.99, Martingale & Company, 2012, www.martingale-pub.com

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80 pages, softcover, $24.99, Martingale & Company, 2012, www.martingale-pub.com

Entrée to Entrelac by Gwen Bortner, Elaine Romley, and Alexis Xenakis Each entrelac block is created using short rows, which requires turning the work frequently to knit the rectangular shape. Included with the helpful basic instructions for entrelac is a detailed tutorial on knitting backward, or knitting from left to right, eliminating the need to turn the work at the end of the row. This informative how-to will not only be beneficial for knitting entrelac, but can be used for any knitting project. Following the detailed steps you will be eager to try this new knitting technique on one of the 35 fabulous patterns, or use the clever designing with entrelac section to create your own brilliant design. 160 pages, softcover, $19.95, XRX Books, 2010, www.knitting universe.com


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Moon shadows cardigan

g

You will love the simplicity of this delicious cardigan that is knit from the top down using uncomplicated raglan shaping. The basic design is wonderfully complimented by an equally effortless lace border on the sleeves and hem. Yarn: Boutique Midnight by Red Heart Designed by Jodi Snyder for Red Heart Skill level: Intermediate Sizes: Women’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X) Finished measurements: Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" Length: 20 (20½, 21, 21½, 22½)" Yarn weight:

4

Stitch patterns Lace border (worked in rows) Rows 1 (RS), 2, 3, 5 and 6: Knit. Row 4: P1, *p2tog, yo; rep from *, end p1. Row 7: K3, *yo, ssk, k6; rep from * to last 5 sts, yo, ssk, k3.

Row 15: Rep row 7. Rows 16 and 17: Knit. Row 18: Rep row 4. Rows 19 and 20: Knit. Rep rows 1–20 for pat. Lace border (worked in rnds) Rnds 1, 3 and 5: Knit. Rnds 2 and 6: Purl. Rnd 4: K1, *k2tog, yo; rep from *, end k1. Rnd 7: K3, *yo, ssk, k6; rep from * to last 5 sts, yo, ssk, k3. Rnds 8, 10, 12 and 14: Knit. Rnd 9: K2, *[yo, ssk] 2 times, k4; rep from * to last 6 sts, [yo, ssk] 2 times, k2. Rnd 11: K1, *[yo, ssk] 3 times, k2; rep from *, end last rep k1. Rnd 13: Rep rnd 9. Rnd 15: Rep rnd 7. Rnd 16: Purl. Rnds 17 and 19: Knit. Rnd 18: Rep rnd 4.

Rows 8, 10, 12 and 14: Purl.

Rnd 20: Purl.

Row 9: K2, *[yo, ssk] 2 times, k4; rep from * to last 6 sts, [yo, ssk] 2 times, k2.

Rep rnds 1–20 for pat.

Row 11: K1, *[yo, ssk] 3 times, k2; rep from *, end last rep k1.

Yoke

Row 13: Rep row 9.

With 29” needle, cast on 46 (48, 54, 56, 58) sts. Beg St st.

Materials • 5 (5, 6, 7, 7) skeins Boutique Midnight by Red Heart, 65% acrylic, 23% wool, 6% metallic polyester, 6% nylon, (153 yds/70g) in color 1933 Aura • U.S. size 10 (6mm) 16" and 29" circular needles, or size required for gauge • Stitch markers • Stitch holders • Yarn needle

Gauge 16 sts and 22 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st

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Set-up row (WS): P1, pm, p1 (seam st), pm, p8 (8, 10, 10, 10), pm, p1 (seam st), pm, p24 (26, 28, 30, 32), pm, p1 (seam st), pm, p8 (8, 10, 10, 10), pm, p1 (seam st), pm, p1. Note: Neck and raglan shaping take place at the same time, so read this section all the way through before proceeding. You may find it useful to keep track of which rows both neck and raglan shaping occur (10-st inc) and on which rows only raglan shaping occurs (8-st inc). Neck inc are made on RS rows as follows: K1, M1R, knit until 1 st rem, M1L, k1; 2 sts inc. Raglan inc are made at each marked seam st as follows: Knit to marked seam st, yo, slip marker, k1, slip marker, yo; 8-st inc. Establish neck and raglan shaping (RS): K1, M1R, yo, slip marker, k1, slip marker, yo, [knit to marker, yo, slip marker, k1, slip marker, yo] 3 times, M1L, k1; 10 sts inc, 1 at each neck edge and 2 at each raglan seam; 56 (58, 64, 66, 68) sts. Next row: Purl.

Sleeve

Back

Right front

Continue as established working inc in the following sequence: 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 11)˝

6 (6½, 7, 7½, 8)˝

13 (15, 17, 18½, 20)˝

10˝

10˝

Left front 11½˝

Knitting direction

36 (40, 44, 48, 52)˝

Neck inc: Work every 4 rows 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) more times. Raglan inc: Work every RS row 10 (14, 15, 19, 23) more times, then every 4 rows 6 (5, 5, 4, 3) times; 204 (232, 248, 276, 304) sts. Work even until piece measures 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 11)”, end with a WS row. Dividing row (RS): Removing markers as you come to them, k30 ( 34, 36, 40, 44) sts for left front, slip 42 (48, 52, 58, 64) sts to holder for left sleeve, using the backward loop method, cast on 12 (12, 16, 16, 16) sts for left underarm, k60 (68, 72, 80, 88) sts for back, slip 42 (48, 52, 58, 64) sts to holder for right sleeve, using the backward loop method, cast on 12 (12, 16, 16, 16) sts for right underarm, k30 ( 34, 36, 40, 44) sts for right front; 144 (160, 176, 192, 208) body sts.

Moon shadows

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g g

Body and sleeves Work even until body measures 6" from underarm, end with a WS row. Beg lace border pat. Work rows 1–20 of lace border pat. Beg St st. Work even until piece measures 10” from underarm, ending with a WS row. Establish rib (RS): K3, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Next row: P3, k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 11½" from underarm, ending with a WS row. Bind off in pat.

sts from sleeve holder, pick up and knit 6 (6, 8, 8, 8) sts from cast on underarm sts; 54 (60, 68, 74, 80) sts. Pm and join. Knit 1 rnd. Dec rnd: K2tog, knit to 2 sts before marker, ssk; 2 sts dec. Rep dec rnd every 2 rnds 6 (9, 10, 7, 4) more times, then every rnd 0 (0, 3, 9, 15) times; 40 sts. Beg lace border pat in the rnd for 20 rnds. Knit 6 rnds. Sleeve measures approximately 8½" from underarm. Establish rib: *K2, p2; rep from * around. Work even in rib until sleeve measures 10” from underarm. Bind off.

Sleeves With 16” needle and RS facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 6 (6, 8, 8, 8) sts from cast on underarm sts, k42 (48, 52, 58, 64)

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up and knit 54 sts along right front edge from lower edge to beg of neck shaping, pick up and knit 33 (34, 35, 36, 39) sts along neck edge, pick up and knit 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts across top of right sleeve, pick up and knit 28 (30, 32, 34, 36) sts along back neck, pick up and knit 8 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts across top of left sleeve, pick up and knit 33 (34, 35, 36, 39) sts down left neck edge to end of neck shaping and pick up and knit 54 sts along left front edge; 218 (222, 230, 234, 242) sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, *k2, p2; rep from * across. Row 2: K2, *p2, k2; rep from * across.

Finishing

Rep these 2 rows for 1½", ending with a WS row. Bind off in pat.

Front and neckbands

Weave in ends.

;

With 29" needle and RS facing, pick


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Meet the designer

Lorna Miser LoK: As the founder of Lorna’s Laces, what inspired you, and what was your favorite part of your business?

pany any more, I still admire from a distance what Beth Casey has done with it. Lorna’s Laces is still my child that I love to see succeed.

LM: I always loved the creative aspects of the business, designing new colors and new projects, and finding ways to market them.

LoK: You are also an amazing designer. What inspires you?

LoK: We know that you are no longer with Lorna’s Laces was it hard to let go? LM: I started the business when my kids were just babies. In a way, Lorna’s Laces was one of my children. Like them, it matured and it was time for it to move on. I was ready to do other things. Although I’m not associated with the com-

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LM: Thank you. I like to look at what people wear and look for elements to apply to knit designs. I like to knit and design garments that are “normal” clothing, things that even a non-knitter would wear. LoK: Do you have a favorite fiber?

babies and kids garments. In fact, I like superwash wool for a lot of things! I’m much more tempted by color than fiber. I will always love variegated yarns and the magic that they are. LoK: Do you have the inspiration for the design first? Or do you find the fiber or color inspires the design? LM: Usually I think of a design that I want to do and then choose a yarn that would suit it. I knit a lot of swatches solely for the purpose of seeing how a yarn drapes and what stitch patterns will work with it.

LM: It depends on what I’m designing. I really like superwash wool for

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LoK: What other creative things do you do? LM: I dabble (poorly) but enthusiastically in acrylic paints. Probably the most creative thing I create are some very artistic, collage-type tote bags and purses. I collect trims and buttons and textiles and use them on these one-of-a-kind bags. LoK: Are you a monogamous knitter? How many projects do you generally have going at one time? LM: Because most of my knitting is work related, I do have to stay on task to meet deadlines. That’s not to say I don’t have some ancient UFO’s haunting me and, at any given moment, a dozen design ideas floating through my head. LoK: Do you have a favorite thing to knit or design? LM: I have always loved knitting and designing for babies. They’re small projects that are quick and oh-so-cute. I especially like making adult-looking garments miniaturized for little ones. Tiny sweaters use little yarn and are a great way to experiment with a technique or design that may translate to an adult-sized project. I started knitting baby sweaters when my oldest child Dan was born, and he’ll soon be 29 years old. Now I knit for his three children!

a break from work deadlines, the last thing I feel like doing is imposing a deadline on myself. LoK: Tell us about your daughter who’s in the Navy? LM: My daughter Grace is my middle child, and she enlisted almost 2 years ago. As I write this, I am on my way to see her ship come in from a 7-month deployment to the Persian Gulf. I am so excited and proud of her. During the first few months of her deployment, Grace did a lot of knitting for her fellow sailors and friends. LoK: Besides being an amazing designer, what else keeps you busy? LM: I live in Folsom, California, where we have some of the best bicycle trails in the country. I love to ride my bike to clear my mind and get the blood flowing.

LoK: Do you ever knit for yourself?

LoK: What else is new or that we should know about you?

LM: I rarely knit for myself. I always promise myself that I’ll make something to wear, but when I finally get

LM: I’m looking forward to the release of my third book in late summer 2012. It’s a baby/children’s book

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that gives knitters the opportunity to customize their own design. Like I said, I really love knitting for kids! I will soon be releasing some of my own designs via my Ravelry store. There are times when I want to design something completely my own. To learn more about Lorna and her designs, visit her website: www. lornamiserdesigns.com. ;


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Fireside sparkle The alluring and bright gold and reds beautifully enhance the clever design creating a bright splash of color complimented by the contrasting black. A bit of sparkle in the yarn creates a luxurious sheen, making this sweater ideal for day or night. Yarn: Wool Crepe by Great Adirondack Yarns

;; ;

Designed by Brigitte Reydams

Mitered squares (make 32)

Back


With A, cast on 30 (36, 42) sts, pm in center of row.

With A, pick up and knit 72 (80, 84) sts along upper edge of back. Work in garter st for 1 row, then work in St st for 1".

Sizes: Women’s Small (Medium, Large) Finished measurements: Bust: 40 (44, 48)" Length: 27 (27, 27)" Yarn weight:

4

Row 1 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before marker, ssk, slip marker, k2tog, knit to end. Row 2: Knit.

Shape armholes

Rep rows 1 and 2 until 18 sts rem, ending with a WS rows. Change to B. Rep rows 1 and 2 until 2 sts rem. K2tog. Fasten off.

Next row (RS): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.

Assemble miters as shown in diagram.

Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows until 68 (76, 80) sts rem, work even until armholes measure 8”, ending with a WS row.

Materials • 4 (5, 5) skeins Wool Crepe by Great Adirondack Yarns, 85% wool, 15% metallic, (200 yds/100g) in color Poppy (A) • 4 skeins Merino VI by Trendsetter Yarn, 100% merino wool, (135 yds/50g) in color 11 Black (B) • U.S. size 9 (5.5mm) needles, or size required for gauge • U.S. size G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook • Buttons, 5 total • Yarn needle

Gauge 16 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10cm) in garter st using A

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Shape shoulders

Right front

Shape neck

Bind off 7 (8, 8) sts at beg of next 6 rows. Bind off rem 26 (28, 32) sts.

With A, pick up and knit 36 (40, 44) sts along upper edge of right front. Work as for back to start of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.

Bind off 3 (4, 8) sts at neck edge once, then bind off 2 sts at neck edge every other row 5 times; 21 (24, 24) sts, end with a RS row. Work even until armhole measures same as back.

Side gussets With RS facing, pick up and knit 76 (84, 88) sts along sides of back, from armhole bind off to hem. Work in garter st for 2". Bind off.

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Love of Knittin Knitting | Fall 2012

Shape armhole Next row (RS): Knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.

Shape shoulders

Next row: Purl.

Bind off 7 (8, 8) sts at beg of next 3 WS rows.

Rep last 2 rows until 34 (38, 42) sts rem, work even until armholes measure 5", ending with a WS row.

Left front Work as for right front, reversin reversing all shaping.

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Sleeves Mitered square (make 2) With A, cast on 32 sts, pm in center of row. Work as for body mitered squares. Assemble miters as shown in diagram. With A, pick up and knit 32 sts. Work in garter st for 1 row. Change to B and work in St st, inc 1 st each end of row every 6 rows until there are 60 sts. Work even until piece measures 16” from pick up row. Cap shaping Next row (RS): K2, ssk, knit to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows until 56 sts rem. Bind off 1 st at beg of each row until 8 sts rem. Bind off.

Finishing With crochet hook and B held double, work 1 rnd single crochet around front, neck, and lower edges, then work 1 rnd reverse single crochet. Fasten off. Weave in ends. Sew buttons in place (insert buttons between crochet sts). ;

Right front

Back

Stockinette MC

Stockinette MC

Stockinette MC

8

7 27˝

6

5

6

5

4

3

4

3

2

1

2

1

Fireside sparkle

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8˝

15˝ Sleeve

1˝

16

15

14

13

12

11

10

9

8

7

6

5

4

3

2

1

Gusset: Garter stitch MC

7

Gusset: Garter stitch MC

8

Left front

Stockinette CC

18˝

2 Key

20˝

1 8”

MC: Great Adirondack CC wool crepe; poppy CC: Trendsetter Merino VI; black

MC

20 (22, 24)"


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Classic cabled vest Traditional cables form an engaging focal point in the center of this handsome vest. The cable effortlessly splits at the V-neck to keenly adorn the collar. Yarn: Classic Wool by Patons

Design by Andra Knight-Bowman Skill level: Intermediate

Materials

Special abbreviations

• 4 (4, 5, 5, 5) skeins Classic Wool by Patons, 100% pure new wool, (210 yds/100g) in color 00229 Natural Mix

C6B: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold to back, k3, k3 from cable needle.

Sizes: Men’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X)

• U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) needles, or size required for gauge

Finished measurements:

• U.S. size 5 (3.75mm) needles

Chest: 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)"

• Cable needle

Length: 26 (26½, 27, 27½, 28)"

• Stitch markers

Yarn weight:

4

• Stitch holders • Yarn needle


C6F: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle.

Stitch patterns Rib Rows 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 19, 20, and 21: Knit. Rows 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, and 17: *P2, k2; rep from * across, end p2. Double cable Rows 1, 3 and 7: Knit. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: K2, p6, k4, p6, k2. Row 5: K2, C6B, k4, C6F, k2. Rep rows 1–8 for pat.

Back With smaller needles, cast on 86 (94, 102, 110, 122) sts. Work rows 1–21 of rib pat inc 0 (0, 2, 2, 0) sts on last row; 86 (94, 104, 112, 122) sts. Change to larger needles and work in St st until piece measures 16½ (16½, 16½, 16½, 17)", ending with a WS row. Shape armholes Bind off 8 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Dec 1 st each end of row every other row 7 times; 56 (64, 74, 82, 92) sts. Work even until armhole measures 9 (9½, 10, 10½, 10½)", ending with a RS row.

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Next row (WS): P16 (18, 20, 22, 24), k24 (28, 34, 38, 44), p16 (18, 20, 22, 24). Knit 1 row. Next row (WS): P16 (18, 20, 22, 24) sts, bind off center 24 (28, 34, 38, 44) sts, p16 (18, 20, 22, 24) sts. Place sts on holders.

Front Work rib pat as for back. Change to larger needles, work in St st over 33 (37, 41, 45, 51), M1, pm, work in double cable pat over next 20 sts, pm, M1, work in St st to end; 2 sts inc. Cont in pat until piece measures 16½ (16½, 16½, 16½, 17)", ending with a WS row. Shape armholes and neck Shape armholes as for back, and, at the same time, when armholes measure 2½ (3, 3, 3, 3)" shape neck as follows: Next row (RS): Work to 3 sts before first marker, k2tog, k1, work to center of double cable pat, join a new ball of yarn, work to next marker, k1, ssk, work to end; 1 st dec each side. Next row: Work even in pat. Rep last 2 rows until 16 (18, 20, 22, 24) st rem each side. Work even until armhole measures 9½ (10, 10½, 11, 11)", ending with a WS row.

Finishing Join shoulders using 3-needle bind off.

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Armhole trim With smaller needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 102 (106, 110, 114, 114) sts. Do not join in a rnd. Work rows 1–21 of rib pat, omitting rows 11, 13, 15 and 17, end knit 3 rows. Bind off loosely. Sew side seams. Weave in ends. Block. ;

Key K on RS; p on WS P on RS; k on WS C6b C6f

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3

1

1

a a a


12½ (14¼, 16½, 18¼, 20½)˝

Back

7 (7, 7½, 8, 8)˝

19 17 15 13 11 9

9½ (10, 10½, 11, 11)˝

3

14½ (14½, 14½, 14½, 15)˝

5

3½ (4, 4½, 5, 5½)˝

26 (26½, 27, 27½, 28)˝

5½ (6¼, 7½, 8¼, 9½)˝

7

Front

2˝ 38 (42, 46, 50, 54)˝

38 (42, 46, 50, 54)˝

19 (21, 23, 25, 27)˝

19 (21, 23, 25, 27)˝

Classic cabled vest

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HOW TO A Beginner’s Guide

Entertaining Entrelac Weave simple techniques into a knitted masterpiece. From textured stitches to cables and lace, knitting has numerous techniques that add interest and texture to your finished fabric. And even when knitting on the bias, these techniques are traditionally worked with your knitted stitches moving in one direction. Entrelac is a brilliant technique that is not bound by the single-direction knitting rule. Named for the French word entrelacer or interlaced, Entrelac produces a finished fabric that appears to be comprised of woven rectangles created by knitting in two different directions. The foundation row of every entrelac project is formed by a series of triangles created by short rows that are worked back and forth over an increasing number of stitches. Once the row of base triangles is complete, picking up stitches along the triangle sides forms the rectangles. These rectangles will lean either to the left or the right depending on the direction of the previous row. The knitted blocks may be worked in simple stockinette or garter stitch, letting the beauty of the woven fabric shine. Or each rectangle can feature a second knitting technique, such as a lace or cable pattern, to add an additional element of interest to your finished project.

loveofknitting.com llov lo ovveeo o eof offkkn o kni niittti n ttttiing ing ng. n g..ccom g co om o m

While entrelac has set rules for the basics, there are variations in technique. When knitting short rows, it is not necessary to “wrap and turn” your stitches. However, some knitters find that they have small holes in their knitting where the short rows are created, and for this reason they prefer to wrap the stitch before they turn. Additionally, the end stitch of each row may be slipped, and depending on how your stitches are then picked up on the next row, these slipped stitches can create an additional level of interest by forming a finished braid along the edge. Just as there is a preference for wrapping stitches, some knitters find that knitting the end stitch results in a firmer fabric and feel that a slipped stitch at the end does not provide enough support for the next row that will be picked up along the edge stitches. With so much versatility within the technique, and the uniqueness of the finished fabric, it’s no wonder that we are seeing so many projects featuring this fascinating technique.


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Base Triangles Beginning with the basics, using whatever method you prefer, cast on on 40 stitches. Knit the first 2 stitches, turn your work, leaving the remaining 38 cast-on stitches unworked. Purl these 2 stitches, and then turn your work again. Knit 3 stitches, increasing the stitch count by including a stitch from the original cast-on row to your work. Turn again and purl all 3 stitches. To complete this first triangle, continue working in this pattern, adding 1 stitch from the initial cast-on row before turning to purl back, until you have worked 10 stitches from the cast-on row (photo A). Repeating the steps from the first triangle and, working into the next 2 cast-on stitches in the row, create a second 10-stitch triangle. Repeat this process across the entire cast-on row until you have 4 triangles. With the foundation row complete, we can now begin adding rectangular blocks to add length to the knitted fabric. Each row of rectangles is called a tier, and they will either lean to the left or the right depending on the direction of the previous row. Tier 1 begins and ends with an edge triangle. With the wrong side facing and working into the stitches from the previous triangle, purl the first 2 stitches. Turn your work and knit the first stitch, knit into the front and back of the next stitch, increasing the stitch count to 3. Turn the work again and purl the first 2 stitches, next purl the third stitch together with the next stitch from the base triangle, securing this end triangle to the base triangle. Turn the work again and knit the first 2 stitches, then knit into the front and back of the next stitch, increasing the stitch count to 4. Turn the work again, and purl the first 3 stitches. Repeating the process from the previous purl row, purl the last stitch together with the next stitch in the base triangle (photo B). Continue repeating these 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on the knit side and purling the last stitch

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A

B

C

together with the next stitch on the base triangle until all 10 base triangle stitches have been worked together with a stitch for the end triangle from tier 1. Next, begin adding rectangular sections along the side of each base triangle. All of the rectangles on tier 1 will lean to the right. With the wrong side facing, pick up and purl 10 stitches along the side of the first base triangle. Turn your work and knit the 10 stitches just picked up. Turn the work again and purl 9

stitches. Purl the last stitch together with the next stitch from the foundation triangle. Continue working these 2 rows until all 10 base triangle stitches have been worked (photo C). Tier 1 ends with a second edge triangle. With the wrong side facing, pick up and purl 10 stitches along the edge of the last base triangle. Turn the work and knit 10 stitches. Turn the work again, purl the first 8 stitches, purl the last 2 stitches together, decreasing 1 stitch. Turn the work and

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knit 9 stitches. Turn the work again, purl the first 7 stitches, then purl the last 2 stitches together, again decreasing 1 stitch. Continue working this end triangle, knitting all stitches on the right side, and purling the last 2 stitches together on the wrong side, until there is only 1 stitch.

D

HOW TO A Beginner’s Guide

Tier 2 is comprised of rectangles picked up along the sides of the rectangles in tier 1. The rectangles on this tier will lean to the left. With the right side facing, pick up and knit 9 stitches along the side of the first rectangle of tier 1. Turn the work and purl 10 stitches. Turn the work again, knit the first 9 stitches, slip the last stitch from the new rectangle in tier 2, and slip the first stitch from the last rectangle in tier 1, and then knit these 2 stitches together. Turn the work again and purl all 10 stitches. Continue repeating these 2 rows, purling all stitches on the wrong side and slipping and knitting the last stitch in tier 2 with the first stitch in tier 1, until all 10 stitches from the rectangle in tier 1 have been consumed. Repeat this rectangle across the row (photo D). Repeat tiers 1 and 2 to create the entrelac pattern. Once your fabric is the desired length, a row of triangles is knit to end the work. These triangles fill in the gaps between the rectangles and create a straight finished edge. The top triangles are created after ending a tier 1. With the right side facing and 1 stitch on right needle, pick up and knit 9 stitches down the side of the triangle just completed; 10 stitches will be on right the needle. Turn the work so the wrong side is facing. Purl 10 stitches; turn the knitting and work a slip, slip, knit decrease; knit across the next 7 stitches; slip the next stitch from this top triangle and slip the first stitch from the last rectangle in tier 1; and then knit these 2 stitches together. This top triangle has been decreased by 1 stitch. Turn the work and purl the remaining 9 stitches. Turn the work and slip,

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slip, knit the first 2 stitches together, again decreasing 1 stitch. Knit across the next 6 stitches and again slip the last stitch of the top triangle and the first stitch from the rectangle in tier 1 and then knit these 2 stitches together. Continue decreasing the first stitch of the triangle and slipping and knitting the last stitch of the triangle together with the first stitch of the rectangle from tier 1 until 1 stitch

remains. Repeat this process to make all triangles in tier 2, finishing off at the end of the row. Now that you have the basics, use your new skills to create our Dragonscale Throw featured on page 12. Once you have mastered the basics, try different patterns within the building blocks to set your imagination free. What will you create with this fascinating technique? ;


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||||| Meet me for coffee Knit and purl stitches create a classic chevron pattern with a marvelous diagonal texture. You will stay warm and toasty in this stylish cloak, and the clever arm slits mean you will not displace the cloak if you need to reach or hold something. Yarn: Sheep(ish) by Stitch.Rock.Love. from Caron International

Designed by Marlaine DesChamps Skill level: Intermediate Sizes: Women’s Small/Medium (Large/Extra Large, 2X) Finished measurements:

Materials

Stitch patterns

• 9 (9, 10) skeins Sheep(ish) by Stitch.Rock.Love. by Caron International, 70% acrylic, 30% wool, (167 yds/85g) in color 0019 Olive(ish)

Chevron

• U.S. size 8 (5mm) 36" circular needle, or size required for gauge

Lower edge, buttoned: 72 (75, 79)"

• U.S. size 6 (4mm) 36" circular needle

Length: 23½"

• 1¼" buttons, 5 total

Yarn weight:

4

• Yarn needle

Gauge 18 sts and 30 rows = 4" (10cm) in chevron pat using larger needle

Row 1 (RS): *K1, p1, k1, p5; rep from * to end. Row 2 and all WS rows: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Row 3: K1, p1, *k5, p1, k1, p1; rep from * to last 6 sts, k5, p1. Row 5: K1, *p5, k1, p1, k1; rep from * to last 7 sts, p5, k1, p1. Row 7: *K5, p1, k1, p1; rep from * to end. Row 9: P4, *k1, p1, k1, p5; rep from * last 4 sts, [k1, p1] twice. Row 11: K3, *p1, k1, p1, k5; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p1, k2. Row 13: P2, *k1, p1, k1, p5; rep from * last 6 sts, k1, p1, k1, p3. Row 15: K1, *p1, k1, p1, k5; rep from * last 7 sts, p1, k1, p1, k4. Row 16: Rep row 2. Rep rows 1–16 for pat. Rib Row 1 (WS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Row 2: Knit the knit sts and purl the purl sts. Rep row 2 for pat.

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Back With larger needle, cast on 160 (168, 176) sts. Knit 2 rows. Work in chevron pat until piece measures 6" from beg, ending with a WS row. Shape lower sides Next row (RS): Cont in pat, dec 1 st each edge every 3rd row 14 times; 132 (140,148) sts. Work even until piece measures 14" from beg, ending with a WS row. Shape upper sides Next row (RS): Cont in pat, dec 1 st each edge every other row 26 times; 80 (88, 96) sts. Work even for 1 row. Shape shoulders Next row (RS): Bind off 4 (4, 5) sts at beg of next 6 rows, then 4 (5, 5) sts at beg of next 6 rows; 32 (34, 36) sts. Bind off.

Left front With larger needle, cast on 76 (80, 84) sts. Knit 2 rows. Work in chevron pat until piece measures 6" from beg, ending with a WS row. Note: For sizes small/medium and 2X, you will not have enough sts at end of row 1 of pat to work a complete final repeat; simply cont in pat to last st. Shape side and arm slit Next row (RS): Note: Side and arm slit shaping are worked at the same time; please read entire section through before beginning. Cont in pat, shape side as for back and, at the same time, when piece measures 6½" from beg, ending with a WS row, shape arm slit as follows.

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||| Shape slit Next row (RS): Cont to work side shaping, work to last 26 (28, 30) sts, join another ball of yarn and work to end. Working both sides at the same time, work even for 34 rows. Join split Next row (RS): Cont to work side shaping, work across all sts, breaking second ball of yarn. Cont to work side shaping as for back there are 40 (45, 50) sts, ending with a WS row. Pm at neck edge. Shape neck Next row (RS): Cont with side and shoulder shaping as for back, dec 1 st at neck edge every other row 11 (12, 13) times. Fasten off rem st.

Right front Work as for left front, reversing all shaping.

sts to neck marker, pm, 100 sts along left front. Work in rib pat for 3 rows. Shape collar Row 1 (RS): Work in pat to 2 sts past 3rd marker (left shoulder), turn. Row 2: Sl 1, work to 2 sts past next marker (right shoulder), turn. Row 3: Sl 1, work to 2 sts past gap, turn. Row 4: Sl 1, work to 2 sts past gap, turn. Rep rows 3 and 4 to first and 4th markers, ending with a WS row. Work to end. Working across all sts, work even until front bands measure 1¼" from pick-up row, ending with a WS row. Buttonhole row (RS): Work 7 sts, [bind off next 3 sts, work 17 sts (including st on right needle from bind off)] 4 times, work to end. Work even until band measures 2½" from pick-up row, casting on 3 sts over gaps to close buttonholes on next row. Bind off in pat. Weave in ends. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes. ;

Finishing

7 (7½, 8)˝

Block pieces to measurements. Sew side seams.

3 (3¼, 3½)˝ Arm slit plackets

23½˝

Front & back

4½˝

With RS facing, using smaller needle, pick up and knit 27 sts along edge of slit closer to side edge of cape. Work in rib pat for 1½". Bind off in pat. Sew side edges of placket to RS of front.

With RS facing, using smaller needle, pick up and knit 277 (279, 281) sts around neck opening as follows: 100 sts along right front to neck marker, pm, 22 sts to beg of back neck, pm, 33 (35, 37) sts across back neck, 22

6˝

Front bands and shawl collar

17 (17¾, 18¾)˝ 36 (37 1/2, 39 1/2)˝ Meet me for coffee

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Equestrian elegance Couple staggered cables and leather buttons to create rugged but practical accessories with an edge. You don’t have to be in the country to wear this fabulous set, just hip! Yarn: Shelter by Brooklyn Tweed

Designed by Lisa Ellis Skill level: Intermediate

Special abbreviation C6B: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k3, k3 from cable needle.

Size: One size fits all Finished measurements:

Special techniques

Scarf: 6” x 52½"

One row buttonhole

Boot wraps: 13" long x 8" in circumference

Knit to button placement, wyf, sl 1 purl wise, wyb, *sl next st purlwise, bind off st (by passing first slipped st over 2nd slipped st) and rep from *, 3 times total (bind off 3 sts). This prevents the buttonhole from growing. Place last bind off st on right needle back onto left needle. Turn work to WS and wyb, cast on 4 sts (or 1 extra

Yarn weight:

2

Materials • 4 skeins Shelter by Brooklyn Tweed, 100% Targhee-Columbia wool, (140 yds/50g) in color 17 Pumpernickel

$ $ $

st added to the bind off sts) using the cable cast-on method. Turn work to RS and wyb, slip 1 purl wise, pass the last cast-on st over the slipped st. Continue in ribbed pattern.

Stitch pattern Staggering cables Rows 1, 3, 7, 9, 11, 17, 19, 21 (RS): *P1, k6; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 2 and all WS rows: *K1, p6, rep from * to last st, k1. Rows 5 and 13: P1, k6, *p1, C6B, p1, k6; rep from *, ending p1, C6B, p1.

• U.S. size 8 (5mm) needles, or size required for gauge • Cable needle • Stitch markers • Locking stitch markers • ¾" buttons, 12 total • Yarn needle

Gauge 22 and 28 rows = 4" (10cm) in cable pat

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Scarf Cast on 34 sts. Work in k2, p2 rib for 5 rows.

Rows 15 and 23: P1, C6B, *p1, k6, p1 p1, C6 C6B; rep from *, ending p1, k6, p1. Row 24: *K1, p6, rep from * to last st, k1.

Next row (RS): P1, k1, p1, knit and inc 6 sts evenly to last 3 sts, p1, k1, p1; 40 sts. Set up row: K1, p1, k1, pm, *p6, k1; rep from * to last 9 sts, p6, pm, k1, p1, k1.


Row 1 (RS): P1, k1, p1, slip marker, work cable pat between markers, slip marker, p1, k1, p1.

Notes

Row 2: K1, p1, k1, slip marker, work cable pat between markers, slip marker, k1, p1, k1.

Be sure to check gauge for the boot wraps. If gauge is too large, boot wraps will slip down. For loose knitters, it is suggested to go down a needle size if necessary to ensure proper fit.

Cont in pat until scarf measures 45", ending with a WS row. Next row (RS): Knit, evenly dec 6 sts; 34 sts. Next row: Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 rows. Row 3: Place locking stitch markers across ribbing for desired buttonhole placement. Work buttonholes as directed above at each marker. Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 more rows. Bind off.

Finishing Weave in ends. Block. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes. ;

23 21 19

Boot wrap (make 2)

17

Cast on 71 sts. Work cable pat rows 1–24 until piece measures 8", ending with a WS row. Bind off.

15 13 11 9 7

Finishing

5

Button band Pick up and knit 32 sts along right edge. Work in k2, p2 rib for 5 rows. Bind off.

3 1 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9

Pick up and knit approx 32 sts along left side. Work in k2, p2 rib for 2 rows. Work a 1-row buttonhole as directed above. Work 2 more rows in k2, p2 rib. Bind off. Weave in ends. Block. Sew buttons opposite buttonholes.

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7

6

5

4

3

2

1

Repeat

Key Buttonhole band

8

K on RS; p on WS P on RS; k on WS C6b *Only the RS rows are shown on chart; see written instructions for WS rows. Equestrian elegance

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Weekend swoncho Ponchos are a wonderful addition to your fall wardrobe, and the inclusion of sleeves is a brilliant addition to this simple design. Create the boat-neck version for a casual cover-up or knit the collared version for a more sophisticated look. Yarn: Custom Spun by Glenfiddich Yarn

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e Designed by Kathleen England and Barbara Condon of Glenfiddich Wool


Skill level: Easy Size: One size Finished measurements: Width: Approx 48", cuff to cuff Length: 25" at widest part Yarn weight:

3

Materials • 5 skeins custom spun light worsted weight by Glenfiddich Yarn, 100% wool, (200 yds/113g) in color Dusk • U.S. size 9 (5.5mm) needles, or size required for gauge • U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) 16" circular needle • Waste yarn

Back With larger needles, cast on 53 sts. Row 1 and all WS rows: Purl. Row 2 and all RS rows: K1, M1, knit to end. Work in pat until there are 56 sts. Thread waste yarn through each st, leaving all sts on needle (marks cuff). Work even in pat until there are 88 sts. Work even until piece measures approx 27" from beg, ending with a WS row. Next row (RS): K1, k2tog, knit to end. Next row: Purl. Rep last 2 rows until there are 56 sts. Thread waste yarn as before. Cont in pat until there are 53 sts. Bind off.

• Yarn needle

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Front Work as for back.

Finishing With WS tog, sew front and back tog at shoulders as shown on diagram.

Cuffs Starting at shoulder seam, using smaller needle and working on the WS along the row marked with waste yarn, pick up and knit 26 sts along the front. Using the other end of the needle and starting at the shoulder seam, pick up and knit 26 sts along the back in the same manner (leave rem marked sts unworked). Join yarn and work in St st for 8 rows. Change to k2, p2 rib and work even until cuff measures approx 3". Bind off in pat. Rep on opposite side. Seam cuffs and sides. Weave in ends. Block.

15˝

Alternate Finishing Collar Beginning three inches from left shoulder seam, pick up 106 sts evenly spaced around neck opening. Working back and forth in rows (not in the round), k2, p2 for 9"–12". The longer the collar, the more elegant the finish. You may also work the collar in garter stitch (knit every row) for a very different look. ;

12˝

15˝

Contrast color

Contrast color

3˝

25˝

Front & back 3˝

12˝ Weekend swoncho

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Combine a cable twist with traditional lace yarnovers to create a unique and elegant floral pattern. Enjoy the beauty of the unusual design in this spectacular oversized wrap. Yarn: Sock Art Forest by Green Mountain Spinnery

Designed by Tabetha Hedrick Skill level: Intermediate Size: One size Finished measurements: 27" x 67" Yarn weight:

1

ZZZ

Early frost

Materials

Special stitches

• 3 skeins Sock Art Forest by Green Mountain Spinnery, 70% fine wool, 30% Tencel, (400 yds/100g) in color Water

C3/2f: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold to front, k2, k3 from cable needle.

• U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) needles, or size required for gauge • Cable needle • Yarn needle

C3/2b: Slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold to back, k3, k2 from cable needle. C6f: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold to front, k3, k3 from cable needle.

Gauge 22 sts and 18 rows = 4" (10cm) in Early Frost pat (see chart), stretched

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ZZZ Stitch pattern Early frost See chart.

Shawl Cast on 148 sts. Work in rows 1–16 of early frost pat a total of 19 times. Bind off loosely.

Finishing Block shawl to finished measurements. Weave in ends. ;

Key

Ssk on RS; ssp on WS

K on RS; p on WS

ZZZ

C3/2f

P on RS; k on WS

C3/2b

Yarn over

C6f

K2tog on RS; p2tog on WS 16 15 14 13 13 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 43

41

39

37

35

33

Early frost

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31

29

27

25

23

21

19

17

15

13

11

9

7

5

3

1

26-st repeat

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& Emerald Isle sweater A fetching design of intertwining cables is superbly embellished by a delightful tweed texture. The unusual sideways construction creates a sweater that will wrap you in comfort. Yarn: Europa Tweed by Plymouth Yarn

&

Designed by Vanessa Ewing Skill level: Intermediate Sizes: Women’s Small (Medium, Large, Extra Large, 2X) Finished measurements: Bust: 36 (40, 44, 48, 52)" Length: 26¼ (26¾, 27¼, 27¾, 28¼)" Yarn weight:

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& & Materials

Cardigan

Body

• 10 (11, 12, 13, 15) balls Europa Tweed by Plymouth Yarn, 70% wool, 20% acrylic and 10% rayon, (87 yds/50g) in color 6 Forest

Cable panel (worked side to side)

On opposite end of panel, RS facing, pick up and knit 108 (120, 132, 144, 156) sts. Purl next row. Work in St st throughout.

• U.S. size 10 (6mm) needles, or size required for gauge • Cable needle

Cast on 60 sts. Row 1 (RS): P3, *work next 12 sts in cable pat, p2 sts; rep from * 2 times more, work next 12 sts in cable pat, p3.

Gauge

Row 2: K3, *work next 12 sts in cable pat, k2; rep from * 2 times more, work next 12 sts in cable pat, k3. Cont as set, working sts outside of cable pat in rev St st until piece measures 35½ (39½, 43½, 47½, 51½)" from beg, ending with row 24. Bind off.

12 sts and 21 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st

Bottom ribbing

• Stitch holders • Locking stitch markers • Yarn needle

12 sts = 2½” in cable pat

Special abbreviations C6B: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k3, k3 from cable needle. C6F: Slip 3 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k3, k3 from cable needle.

Stitch pattern

Divide for back K24 (27, 30, 33, 36) sts and place those sts on a holder (right front), k60 (66, 72, 78, 84) sts (back), and place the last 24 (27, 30, 33, 36) sts of the row on a holder (left front). Turn. Cast on for sleeves

With RS facing, pick up and knit 108 (120, 132, 144, 156) sts evenly along side edge of cable panel. Row 1 (WS): P3, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 2: k3, *p2, k2; rep from * to last st, k1. Rep these 2 rows twice more. Bind off in pat.

Working on back sts only, cast on 2 sts at beg of next 6 (6, 2, 2, 0) rows, then 3 sts at beg of next 8 (8, 12, 12, 14) rows; 96 (102, 112, 118, 126) sts. Place a locking marker on both sides of the last row. Work in St st until piece measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" from markers. Shape shoulders Bind off 9 (10, 11, 11, 12) sts at beg of next 8 (4, 4, 8, 4) rows, then 0 (9, 10, 0, 11) sts at beg of next 0 (4, 4, 0, 4) rows; 24 (26, 28, 30, 34) sts. Bind off.

Cable (panel of 12 sts) Row 1 (RS): K12. Row 2: P12. Row 3: C6B, C6F. Row 4: P12. Rows 5–8: Rep rows 1 and 2. Rows 9 and 10: Rep rows 3 and 4. Rows 11–14: Rep rows 1 and 2. Row 15: C6F, C6B. Row 16: P12. Rows 17–20: Rep rows 1 and 2. Rows 21 and 22: Rep rows 15 and 16. Row 23 and 24: Rep rows 1 and 2. Rep rows 1–24 for pat.

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& Right front Note: Read all instructions before proceeding. With WS facing, join yarn to 24 (27, 30, 33, 36) right front sts. Cast on for sleeves Cast on 2 sts at beg of next and following 3 (3, 1, 1, 0) WS rows, then 3 sts at beg of next 4 (4, 6, 6, 7) WS rows. At the same time, dec 1 st at the front edge (beg of RS rows, end of WS rows) every 9 (8, 7, 7, 6) rows 6 (7, 8, 9, 11) times. Place a locking marker at beg of last WS row. Work in St st until piece measures 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½)" from marker, ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder Bind off 9 (10, 11, 11, 12) sts at beg of next and following 4 (2, 2, 4, 2) WS rows, then 0 (9, 10, 0, 11) sts at beg of next 0 (2, 2, 0, 2) WS rows. No sts rem.

Left front Work same as right front, reversing all shaping.

Cabled front edge Cast on 19 sts. Row 1 (RS): P5, work next 12 sts in cable pat, p2. Row 2: K2, work next 12 sts in cable pat, k5. Cont as set, working the sts outside of the cable pat in rev St st until piece measures 60½ (62, 63½, 65½, 67¾)" from beg, ending with row 24. Bind off.

Finishing Block pieces to measurements. Working along both front edges and back collar, sew cabled front edge in place. Sleeve trim With RS facing, pick up and knit 46 (50, 54, 58) sts along side edge of sleeve from marker to marker. Work in k2, p2 rib for 5 rows. Bind off in pat. Sew side and sleeve seams. Weave in ends.

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81

Play in the leaves Casual and comfortable, this fun set will encourage hours of play. Knit with a brilliant fiber made from recycled denim, you will enjoy making this delightful set. Yarn: Riveting Worsted by Kollage Yarns

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Designed by Lorna Miser Skill level: Easy Sizes: Child’s 2/4 (6/8, 10/12) years Finished measurements: Chest: 24 (27, 30)" Length: 15 (17, 19)", after washing Hat: 15½ (17½)" circumference Yarn weight:

4

Back

Shape neck

With straight needles and MC, cast on 53 (59, 67) sts. Work in k1, p1 rib, ending with k1, for 2½". Inc 1 st on last row; 54 (60, 68) sts. Change to St st and work even for 4 (5¾ 7½)", ending with a RS row. Knit 1 row. Change to CC. Work in St st for 2 rows. Follow chart for 24 rows. Work in St st for 2 rows. Change to MC, knit 2 rows. Work in St st until piece measures 17½ (19¾, 22)". Place sts on holder for shoulders and back neck.

Next row (RS): K22 (25, 29), join a second ball of yarn, knit center 10 sts and place on holder, knit to end. Working both sides separately at the same time, bind off 2 sts at each neck edge 3 times; 16 (19, 23) sts. Work even until piece measures same as back.

Materials

Front

• 3 (4, 5) hanks Riveting Worsted by Kollage Yarns, 100% recycled yarn made from recycled blue jeans, (163 yds/100g) in color 8103 Night Denim (MC) and 1 hank in color Cloud Denim (CC)

Work same as for back until piece measures 14 (16¼, 18½)", ending with a WS row.

• U.S. size 7 (4.5mm) straight and 16" circular needles, or size required for gauge

Join shoulders using 3-needle bind off.

Sleeves With straight needles and MC, pick up and knit 50 (54, 58) sts along side edge above CC section. Working in St st, dec 1 st each end of row every 6 (8, 10) rows 11 times; 28 (32, 36) sts. Work even until piece measures 11½ (15¼, 18¾)". Dec 1 st on last row; 27 (31, 35) sts. Work in k1, p1 rib, ending with k1, for 2½". Bind off.

• Stitch markers • Stitch holders • Yarn needle

Gauge 18 sts and 26 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st, before washing and drying 18 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st, after washing and drying

Stitch pattern See chart.

Notes Row gauge changes (shrinks) considerably after washing and drying. For this reason, the garment must be knit longer than actual size desired. There are two length measurements on the schematic, one knit measurement and one washed/dried measurement.

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c Finishing

Play in the leaves

Neck edging Using circular needle and MC, knit across 22 back neck sts, pick up and knit 15 sts along neck edge, knit across 10 front neck sts, pick up and knit 15 sts along neck edge; 62 sts. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1½". Bind off loosely.

8

Sew side and sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Machine wash cold and dry in machine to shrink.

3

7 6 5 4

2 1

Key

K on RS, P on WS

First repeat Large

P on RS, K on WS

Front & back 9½ (11, 12½)˝ 11 (12¾, 14½)˝

Rnd 3: *K7, k2tog; rep from * around; 56 (64) sts.

Sleeve

Rnd 5: *K6, k2tog; rep from * around; 49 (56) sts. Cont as set, working 1 less st before dec until 14 (16) sts rem. Break yarn, draw through rem sts and secure.

10 (13, 16)˝ 11½ (15¼, 18¾)˝

Rnd 1: *K8, k2tog; rep from * around; 63 (72) sts.

11 (12, 13)˝ 5½ (6, 6½)˝ 6½ (7, 7½)˝

Shape crown

3½˝

5˝ 3˝


First repeat Small

10-st repeat for sweater Full repeat for hat

First repeat Medium

Last repeat Medium

Last repeat Small

With circular needle and MC, cast on 70 (80) sts. Pm and join, being careful not to twist. Work in k1, p1 rib for 2½". Change to St st and work even until piece measures 3½ (5½)". Purl 1 rnd. Change to CC. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Follow chart for 8 rnds. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd. Change to MC. Knit 1 rnd. Purl 1 rnd.

Last repeat Large

Hat

6 (7, 8)˝ 12 (13½, 15)˝

Finishing Weave in ends.

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;


Play in the leaves *Measurements in red are pre-washed

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{ School spirit vest Two colors are perfectly balanced and blend together with smart stripes. Begin with one color and create gradually narrower stripes that seamlessly flow into the contrasting color. Use your favorite colors for a vest as adorable as your little man. Yarn: Vintage DK by Berroco

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{ { Designed by Jae Koscierzynski Skill level: Easy Sizes: Child’s 2 (4, 6, 8, 10, 12) years Finished measurements: Chest: 25½ (26½, 28, 29½, 31½, 33½)" Length: 12¾ (14½, 15½, 17½, 19½, 21¼)" Yarn weight:

3

Materials • 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2) hanks Vintage DK by Berroco, 50% acrylic, 40% wool, 10% nylon (288 yds/100g) in color 2107 Cracked Pepper (MC) and 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1) hank in color 5181 Black Cherry (CC) • U.S. size 6 (4mm) 24" circular needle, 12" circular needle, or size required for gauge

8 rnds. With MC, work 1 rnd. With CC, work 5 rnds. With MC, work 1 rnd. With CC, work 3 rnds. With MC, work 2 rnds. With CC, work 2 rnds. With MC, work 3 rnds. With CC, work 1 rnd. Cut CC, leaving a long enough tail to weave in. With MC, continue working in St st until piece measures 6¼ (7½, 8½, 9¾, 11¼, 12¾)" from beg, ending last rnd 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts before marker.

(44, 48, 48, 52, 56) sts. Work even until armholes measure 6 (6¼, 6½, 7¼, 7¾, 8)”, ending with a WS row.

Divide for front and back

Left shoulder

Bind off 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14) sts, removing marker as you come to it, k60 (62, 66, 70, 72, 78), place these sts on a holder for front, bind off 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 14), knit to end for back; 60 (62, 66, 70, 72, 78) sts.

Bind off 4 (5, 6, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of WS row and at the same time, dec 1 st at neck edge; 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts. Bind off rem sts on next WS row.

Shape shoulders Next row (RS): K9 (11, 13, 12, 14, 14), join a second ball of yarn, bind off 22 (22, 22, 24, 24, 28) sts, knit to end; 18 (22, 26, 24, 28, 28) sts. Place sts for right shoulder on holder.

Right shoulder

Back Continue working back and forth in St st on 60 (62, 66, 70, 72, 78) back sts only. Dec 2 sts at beg and end of every RS row 10 (9, 9, 11, 10, 11) times; 40

Transfer sts from holder to needle. Dec 1 st at beg of WS row, purl to end; 8 (10, 12, 11, 13, 13) sts. Bind off 4 (5, 6, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next RS row; 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts rem. Purl. Bind off rem sts on next RS row.

• Stitch markers • Stitch holders • Yarn needle

Gauge 22 sts and 28 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st

Body With CC and longer circular needle, cast on 140 (144, 156, 164, 172, 184) sts. Pm and join, being careful not to twist the sts. Work in k2, p2 rib until piece measures 1 (1, 1, 1½, 1½, 1½)" from beg. Work in St st for

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{ Left front Transfer 30 (31, 33, 35, 36, 39) sts from holder to needle. With RS facing, join yarn. Dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 10 (9, 9, 11, 10, 11) times. At the same time, dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 15) times; 8 (10, 12, 11, 13, 13) sts. Work even until armhole measures 6 (6¼, 6½, 7¼, 7¾, 8)", ending with a WS row. Bind off 4 (5, 6, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of next RS row; 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts. Purl. Bind off rem sts on next RS row.

Right front

Sew shoulder seams. Armhole trim With CC and shorter circular needle, pick up and knit 76 (80, 84, 92, 100, 104) sts around armhole. Pm and join. Work in k2, p2 rib for 1". Bind off in pat.

With CC and shorter circular needle, starting at left shoulder, pick up and knit 37 (39, 39, 43, 45, 47) sts along left side of neck, pm, pick up and knit 37 (39, 39, 43, 45, 47) sts along right side of neck, pick up and knit 30 (30, 30, 34, 34, 38) sts along back neck; 104 (108, 108, 120, 124, 132) sts. Pm and join.

3¾ (3¾, 3¾, 4, 4, 4¾)˝ ½˝ 6 (6¼, 6½, 7¼, 7¾, 8)˝

Finishing

Neck trim

Front & back

Rnd 1: Work in k2, p2 rib to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, ssk, work in rib to end. Rnd 2: Work even in pat. Repeat rnds 1 and 2 for 1". Bind off in pat. Weave in ends. Block.

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25½ (26½, 28, 29½, 31½, 33½)˝

6¼ (7½, 8½, 9¾, 11¼, 12¾)˝

Transfer rem 30 (31, 33, 35, 36, 39) sts from holder to needle. With RS facing, join yarn. Dec 1 st at neck edge every RS row 12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 15) times. At the same time, dec 1 st at armhole edge every RS row 10 (9, 9, 11, 10, 11) times; 8 (10, 12, 11, 13, 13) sts. Work even until armhole measures 6 (6¼, 6½, 7¼, 7¾, 8)", ending with a RS row. Bind off 4 (5, 6, 5, 6, 6) sts at beg of WS row; 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7) sts. Bind off rem sts on next WS row.

School spirit vest


87

3 Swan princess dress Let your favorite little girl feel like the princess she is with this adorable dress. The voluminous skirt is perfect for twirling and dancing and enjoying a day of dress-up. The matching legwarmers and headband will encourage her to entertain you with her own production of Swan Lake. Yarns: Grace by Patons and Fun Fur by Lion Brand

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3

3

3

Next row (WS): K2tog across; 72 (78, 84, 90, 96) sts. Change to smaller needles and MC; knit 4 rows. Work in St st until piece measures 14 (15, 16, 17, 18)", ending with a RS row. Knit 3 rows. Bind off loosely. Straps (make 2)

Design by Andra KnightBowman

• 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) skeins Fun Fur by Lion Brand, 100% polyester, (64 yds/50g) in color 101 Soft Pink (CC) • U.S. size 6 (4mm) needles, or size required for gauge

Skill level: Easy Sizes: Child’s 2 (4, 6, 8, 10) years Finished measurements:

• U.S. size 10 (6mm) needles • Yarn needle

Chest: 24 (26, 28, 30, 32)" Length: 18½ (20, 21½ , 23, 24½ )", including straps

Gauge

With smaller needles and MC, cast on 10 sts. Work in garter st for 9 (10, 11, 12, 13)". Bind off loosely. Flower (make 2) With smaller needles and MC, cast on 16 sts. Row 1 (RS): Knit. Rows 2, 4 and 6: Purl. Row 3: K1f&b in each st across; 32 sts.

24 sts and 32 rows = 4" (10cm) in St st using smaller needles and MC

Row 5: Rep row 3; 64 sts. Bind off loosely. Roll flower into a spiral with purl side to the outside, and tack at base.

Dress Materials

Finishing

Front and back (make 2)

• 2 (2, 3, 3, 4) skeins Grace by Patons, 100% mercerized cotton, (136 yds/50g) in color 62416 Blush (MC)

With larger needles and CC, cast on 144 (156, 168, 180, 192) sts. Work in garter st for 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½)".

Weave in ends. Block. Sew side seams. Sew straps to front and back 2 (2, 2½, 2½, 3)" in from each side seam. Sew a flower to top center of dress as shown.

Yarn weights:

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5

3


89

3 Leg warmers (make 2)

Headband

With smaller needles and MC, cast on 45 (48, 54, 60, 66) sts. Knit 3 rows. Beg and end with a RS row, work in St st for 8½ (9½, 10½, 11½, 12½ )". Knit 3 rows. Bind off loosely. Sew sides tog to form a tube.

With smaller needles and MC, cast on 10 sts. Work in garter st for 15 (16, 17, 18, 19)", slightly stretched. Bind off loosely. Sew cast-on edge to bound-off edge. Sew a flower to headband.

Finishing Weave in ends.

4½ (5, 5½, 6, 6½)˝

5½ (6, 6½, 7, 7½)˝

3

90


8½ (9, 9½, 10,10½)˝

3

Front & back

18½ (20, 21½, 23, 24½)˝

3

;

32 (34½, 37½, 40, 40½)˝ Swan princess dress

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Love of Knitting

Summer 2011

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Basic knitting instructions Standard yarn weight system

Standards and guidelines for crochet and knitting: categories of yarn, gauge ranges, and recommend needle and hook sizes Yarn weight symbol and category names Type of yarns in category

Knit gauge range* in stockinette stitch to 4 inches Recommended needle in metric size range Recommented needle in U.S. size range Crochet gauge* ranges in single crochet to 4 inch Recommended hook in metric size range Recommended hook in U.S. size range

0

1

2

4

5

6

Lace Fingering 10 count crochet thread 33–40** sts

Super Fine Sock, Fingering, Baby

Fine Sport, Baby

Light DK, Light Worsted

Medium Worsted, Afghan, Aran

Bulky Chunky, Craft, Rug

Super Bulky Bulky Roving

27–32 sts

23–26 sts

21–24 sts

16–20 sts

12–15 sts

6–11 sts

1.5–2.25 mm

2.25–3.25 mm

3.25–3.75 mm

3.75–4.5 mm

4.5–5.5 mm

5.5–8 mm

000 to 1

1 to 3

3 to 5

5 to 7

7 to 9

9 to 11

8 mm and larger 11 and larger

32–42 double crochets** Steel*** 1.6—1.4mm regular hook 2.25 mm Steel*** 6, 7, 8 regular hook B–1

21–32 sts

16–20 sts

12–17 sts

11–14 sts

8–11 sts

5–9 sts

2.25–3.5 mm

3.5–4.5 mm

4.5–5.5 mm

5.5–6.5 mm

6.5–9 mm

9mm and larger

B–1 to E–4

E–4 to 7

7 to I–9

I–9 to K–101/2

K–101/2 to M–13

M–13 and larger

Skill levels for knitting Beginner Projects for first-time knitters using basic knit and purl stitches. Minimal shaping.

92

3

* These are guidelines only: They reflect the most commonly used gauges and needle or hook sizes for specific yarn categories.

Easy Projects using basic stitches, repetitive stitch patterns, simple color changes, and simple shaping and finishing.

** Lace weight yarns are usually knitted or crocheted on larger needles and hooks to create lacy, openwork patterns. Accordingly, a gauge range is difficult to determine. Always follow the gauge stated in your pattern.

Intermediate Projects with a variety of stitches, such as basic cables and lace, simple intarsia, doublepointed needles and knitting-in-the-round needle techniques, mid-level shaping and finishing.

*** Steel crochet hooks are sized differently from regular hooks—the higher the number, the smaller the hook, which is the reverse of regular hook sizing.

Experienced Projects using advanced techniques and stitches, such as short rows, fair isle, more intricate intarsia, cables, lace patterns, and numerous color changes.

A Standard & Guidelines booklet from the Craft Yarn Council of America is available at www.craftyarncouncil. com/standards.html. Click on the “Downloadable Guidelines PDF” link on the left side of the page.


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Standard knitting abbreviations

k3tog

knit 3 stitches together

sl 1p

slip 1 purlwise

kwise

knitwise

sl 2

slip 2 together

LC

left cross

LH

left hand

*

repeat starting point (repeat from *)

m(s)

marker(s)

sl 2-k1-psso/sl 2tog-k1-p2sso slip 2 together, knit 1, pass 2 slipped sts over — 2 stitch decrease

MC

main color

sl st

repeat all instructions between asterisks

mm

millimeter(s)

slip stitch (sl 1 st pwise unless otherwise indicated)

ssk

slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 kwise, k2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

SSK-P

ssk, slip st back to LH needle, pass second st on LH needle over last st, slip st back to RH needle

ssp

slip 1 kwise, slip 1 kwise, p2 sl sts tog tbl (decrease)

st(s)

stitch(es)

** ()

alternate measurements and/or work instructions in parentheses in place directed

M1/M1L make 1 left. An increase. From the front, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into back of loop.

[]

work instructions in brackets a specified number of times

approx

approximately

beg

beginning; begin, begins

bet

between

M1p/M1pL (make 1 purl left): Pick up bar between needles with left needle from front to back. Purl throught back loop.

BO

bind off

M1PR

BOR

beginning of row or round

C2B

slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back, k1, k1 from cable needle

C2F

M1R

(make 1 purl right): Pick up bar between needles with left needle from back to front. Purl. make 1 right. An increase. From the back, lift loop between stitches with left needle, knit into front of loop.

St st

stockinette stitch

T2B

Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in back, k1, p1 from cable needle

T2F

Slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front, p1, k1 from cable needle

slip 1 st to cable needle and hold in front, k1, k1 from cable needle

oz

ounce(s)

tbl

through back loop

C4B

slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back, k2, k2 from cable needle

p

purl

tog

together

p1f&b

purl into front and back of same stitch

WS

wrong side

wyb

with yarn in back

C4F

slip 2 sts to cable needle and hold in front, k2, k2 from cable needle

p2tog

purl 2 stitches together

pat(s)

pattern(s)

pm

place marker

psso

pass slipped stitch over

p2sso

pass two slipped stitches over

PU

pick up and knit stitches with RS facing

CC

contrasting color

cdd

centered double decrease. sl 2 tog, k1, pass the slipped stiches over (together)

cm

centimeter(s)

cn

cable needle

pwise

purlwise

CO

cast on

RC

right cross

cont

continue(s); continuing

rem

remain(s); remaining

decrease(s); decreasing

rep

repeat; repeating

DPN

double-pointed needles

rev St st reverse stockinette stitch

EOR

every other row

RH

right hand

foll

following; follows

rib

ribbing

g

gram(s)

rnd(s)

inc

increase(s); increasing

k

knit

dec(s)

kfb/k1f&b knit into front and back of same stitch k1 tbl

knit 1 though the back loop

k2tog

knit two stitches together

k2tog tbl knit 2 stitches together through the back loops

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wyf

with yarn in front

yd(s)

yard(s)

yo

yarn over

yo2

yarn over twice

Standard crochet abbreviations ch

chain stitch

dc

double crochet

dc2tog

double crochet 2 stitches together

round(s)

dtr

double treble crochet

RS

right side

hdc

half double crochet

sk

skip

rev sc

reverse single crochet

skp

slip, knit, pass stitch over (decrease)

rnd (s)

round(s)

sk2p/sl1-k2tog-psso slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slip stitch over the knit 2 together—2 stitch decrease

sc

single crochet

sc2tog

single crochet 2 stitches together

sl

slip

sl st

slip stitch

sl 1k

slip 1 knitwise

t-ch

turning chain

tr

treble crochet


93

Basic knitting instructions continued Twisted loop cast on The twisted loop cast on is an easy method that will produce a soft, elastic edge. It is a great choice for adding on stitches or when knitting lace.

1 Make a slip knot with a tail long enough to cast on required number of stitches (about ½˝ per stitch); place slip knot on needle. Holding needle and yarn tail from ball in right hand, wrap yarn from back to front around left A thumb; hold tail with your fingers (photo A).

from bottom to top through loop of yarn on thumb (photo B).

4 Repeat Steps 2 and 3 to cast on required number of stitches.

B

The knitted cast on method produces a loose, soft edge. This would not be a good choice for a garment with a ribbed edge, as it will look sloppy.

1

1

2

Make a slip knot, leaving a short tail (at least 4˝); place slip knot on left needle.

2

Insert tip of right needle from left to right through the loop. Tip of right needle will be behind left needle (photo A).

A

B

3

Wrap yarn from back to front over right needle, then down between the two needles (photo B). Bring tip of right needle forward through stitch on left needle, keeping wrapped yarn on right needle. Wrapped yarn forms a new stitch on right needle (photo C).


Insert left needle from left to right into front of first stitch on right needle. Lift first stitch over second stitch and over end of right needle (photo B).

A

B

Slip left needle out of stitch and let it drop (photo C). (One stitch remains on right needle.)

C

4

C

Knit next stitch from left needle and repeat the last two steps. Continue across row until there are no stitches on left needle and one stitch remains on right needle (photo D).

D

D

5

Cut yarn, leaving at least a 4” tail. Pull end of yarn through loop of last stitch (photo E).

Insert left needle from right to left through loop on right needle (photo D). E

C

Knit first two stitches from left needle (photo A).

3

5

Knit smart™ If your cast on stitches are too tight, use a needle one or two sizes larger than the pattern calls for. Switch back to correct needle size before you begin to knit.

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Binding off

4

2 Bring needle

3 Slide loop off thumb and pull on yarn tail to tighten loop on needle (photo C).

Knitted cast on

6

Remove right needle from loop and gently tighten stitch on left needle (photo E).

E

6

Pull on yarn tail to tighten the loop (photo F).

F

7

Repeat steps 2–6 to cast on required number of stitches.

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Knit stitch

Purl stitch

1

1

Hold needle with stitches in left hand; hold empty needle in right hand. Insert tip of right needle from left to right into front of stitch on left needle. Tip of right needle will be behind left needle (photo A).

A

2

B

Wrap yarn from back to front over right needle, then down between the two needles (photo B).

4

Hold needle with stitches in left hand; hold empty needle in right hand. Insert tip of right needle from right to left into front of stitch on left needle. Yarn and right needle will be in front of left needle (photo A).

A

2

B

Wrap yarn from right to left around right needle (photo B).

1

C

D

Slide right needle to the right, slipping stitch off left needle. Continue in same manner to the end of the row (photo D).

Bring tip of right needle backward through stitch on left needle, keeping wrapped yarn on right needle. Wrapped yarn forms a new stitch on right needle (photo C).

At point of increase, knit stitch, but do not remove stitch from left needle (photo A).

A

2

Insert tip of right needle from right to left through back of same loop on left needle. Tip of right needle will be behind left needle (photo B).

B

3

3

3

Bring tip of right needle forward through stitch on left needle, keeping wrapped yarn on right needle. Wrapped yarn forms a new stitch on right needle (photo C).

Increase : Knit in the front and back (k1 f&b and kfb)

C

D

4

Slide right needle to the right, slipping stitch off left needle. Continue in same manner to the end of the row (photo D).

Wrap yarn from back to front around right needle; bring right needle forward through stitch on left needle, keeping wrapped yarn on right needle. There are now two stitches on right needle (photo C).

C

D

4

Slide right needle to the right, slipping stitch off left needle. You have increased one stitch (photo D).

Check your gauge For best results, always take time to check your gauge. Using the same needles and yarn you will use for your project, knit a swatch that is about 5˝ (12.5 cm) square. Count the number of stitches and rows in 4˝. If you have more rows or stitches than indicated in your pattern, try larger needles and knit another swatch. If you have fewer rows or stitches than indicated, make another swatch using smaller needles. Continue this process until your swatch matches the numbers given in your pattern. Although this seems tedious, it is worth the time to increase the accuracy of the finished size of your project. A gauge tool, such as the one shown, can aid in counting stitches and rows.

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Basic knitting instructions continued Decrease: knit 2 together (k2tog) 1 At point of decrease, insert right needle from left to right through two stitches (photo A).

1

1 Arrange two pieces of knitting with same number of stitches on each needle and wrong sides facing. Thread A the tail from the back piece through yarn needle. Insert yarn needle as if to purl in first stitch on front needle. Leave stitch on needle B (photo A). 2 Insert yarn needle through first stitch on back needle as if to knit. Leave stitch on needle (photo B). C 3 Bring yarn needle through first stitch on front needle as if to knit and slip stitch off needle. Bring yarn needle through next D front stitch as if to purl and leave stitch on needle (photo C). 4 Bring yarn needle through first stitch on back needle as if to purl and E slip stitch off needle. Bring yarn needle through next back stitch as if to knit and leave stitch on needle (photo D). 5 Repeat steps 3 and 4 until no stitches remain on needles. Adjust tension of the stitches as you go to make them match the knitted stitches (photo E). Note: We used a contrasting yarn in our sample to show the stitches better. Use matching yarn when grafting two pieces together.

At point of decrease, slip two stitches knitwise, one at a time, onto right needle. Insert left needle from left to right through front of the two slipped stitches on right needle (photo A).

A

Wrap yarn from back to front around right needle; bring right needle forward through both stitches on left needle. Wrapped yarn forms stitch on right needle (photo B).

B

C

3 B

3 Slide right needle to the right, slipping C stitches off left needle. You have decreased one stitch (photo C). 4 Decrease will slant toward the right (photo D).

D

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Grafting or Kitchener stitch

2

A

2 Wrap yarn from back to front around right needle; bring right needle forward through both stitches on left needle. Wrapped yarn forms stitch on right needle (photo B).

Decrease: slip, slip, knit (ssk)


Slide right needle to the right, slipping stitches off left needle. You have decreased one stitch (photo C).

4

Decrease will slant toward the left (photo D).

D

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Resources

Love the yarns in this issue? Ask your local yarn shop or check here for resources. Projects for every knitter Autumn harvest Naturally Caron: www. naturallycaron.com Classic cable vest Patons: www.patons yarns.com Early frost Green Mountain Spinnery: www.spinnery. com Emerald Isle sweater Plymouth Yarn: www. plymouthyarn.com Fireside sparkle Great Adirondack Yarn Co.: www.dknitting. com, www.yarnrep. com Herringbone skirt Zealana: www.theyarn sisters.com Meet me for coffee Caron International: www.caron.com Moon shadows cardigan Red Heart: www. redheart.com

Pine needle shrug Red Heart: www. redheart.com

Accessories and fun stuff

Ribbed and ruffled Knit One Crochet Too: www.knitonecrochettoo.com

Changing seasons hat and scarf Cascade Yarns: www. cascadeyarns.com

Trimmed in trinity Glenfiddich Wool: www.glenfiddichwool. com

Equestrian elegance Brooklyn Tweed: www. brooklyntweed.net

Twisted stitch pullover www.beaverslide.com Weekend swoncho Glenfiddich Wool: www.glenfiddichwool. com

Kids projects Play in the leaves Kollage Yarns: www. kollageyarns.com

Evening stroll Caron International: www.caron.com Raspberry treat Plymouth Yarn: www. plymouthyarn.com

Home dec Dragonscale throw Malabrigo Yarn: www. malabrigoyarn.com

School spirit vest Berroco: www.berroco. com

Love of Crochet ON SALE NOW! From the editors of your favorite knitting magazine,

Love of Crochet! Fantastic projects, great articles and inspiring how-tos to take your crochet projects to the next level. Look for the current edition on sale now at your local shop, newsstand or loveofknitting.com/sip/ love_of_crocheting and start your crochet projects today!

Swan princess dress Patons: www.patons yarns.com Lion Brand: www. lionbrand.com

2

Love of Knitting would like to thank the Book Arts League and the City of Lafayette for allowing us to shoot at the historic Ewing Farm, a Colorado Centennial Farm.

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97

+ WEB

Autumn harvest

Bonus!

For the complete pattern, please visit us online at www.loveofknitting.com.

98


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SQUARE NEEDLES ®

Supporting the American Dream,

from invention to manufacturing. We are bringing it back to the USA where it all started

SQUARE® NEEDLES Easier on your hands and more uniform stitches.

www.kollageyarns.com

Love Of Knitting Fall 2012

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