knitting

ELINE OFTEDAL • JO ALLPORT • ERIKA KNIGHT

28KNITS FABULOUS

THE NEW FAIRISLE TODAY’S TAKE ON A TIME-HONOURED TRADITION

DYP296 using DY Choice Cotton Fresh DK. For details of local stockists please visit www.designeryarns.uk.com or call 01535 664222

Knitting is published 13 times a year by GMC Publications Ltd, 86 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XN T: 01273 402838 ISSN 1740 6943 EDITOR Christine Boggis T: 01273 402824 [email protected]

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Editor’s letter The tiny population of a tiny island – just half a mile across and three miles long – has created a knitting technique and tradition that has spread across the world and been interpreted and reinterpreted millions of times over the past century. In this issue we’re looking at the history and heritage of Fair Isle in the Shetland islands far north of Scotland – and bringing it right up to date with 26 fantastic and fashionable colourwork knits. We’ve We ’ve got got all sorts of of Fairisle knits, knits, from Sandra Sandra Manson’s Manson’s traditional-style Winter Yoke Gansey to Maisie Smith’s trendy Mhairi tunic dress, and from the stunni stunning ng sheep sheep and croft motif Uradale Shawls to Jo Allport’s delicate Anisa Fairisle and lace wrap. Our interiors theme this month is a Scandi Home Special – so if you love all things Nordic, look no further. Our homewares include cushions – among them brill iant young designer Georgia Positive/Negative ve – a rug, Farrell’s super-soft super-soft and beginner-friendly Positive/Negati a tea cosy, and even Eline Of tedal’s ingenious Norwegian Chair Socks. Plus there’s an interview with Eline in which we ask what inspires her knitting and about her other life working in Norway’s space industry. Our baby knits this issue are particularly cute – I can’t wait to cast on Jean Adel’s Sheep Blankie, and toddlers can step out in style in Drops Design’s Princess Dream and Bergère de France’s Aviator’s Hat . If you’ve got more little ones to knit for, then look out for our Hip Baby Knits supplement, free with this issue. As if that weren’t enough, enough, we’ve got got a Fairisle Masterclass with Erika Knight, news, views, your questions answered, and lots of reader offers – including yarn discounts and tickets to the autumn’ss hottest knitting fa irs. autumn’

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Contents... ISSUE 158 SEPTEMBER 2016 56

61

52

68

REGULARS 1 5 10 34 48 91 96

Editor’s letter News Spotlight on Style file Ask Jeanette Coming next month Purl about town

REVIEWS 16 Books and pieces 19 Yarn review

NEVER MISS AN ISSUE! Find your nearest shop that stocks s tocks Knitting GALLERIES with this handy postcode finder and never miss an issue again! seymour.magzene.com 23 This month’s knits

Joinin Knitting on. Jo on.. 2


FEATURES Guest column: Carol Christiansen knitter’s ’s 12 Feature: A knitter report from Fair Isle 14 Profile: Eline Oftedal 11

HOW TO 49 Erika Knight’s Fairisle Masterclass information on 89 Essential informati

81

77 80

80 67 PATTERNS

CHILDREN’S

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76

Mhairi 54 Drama Queen 56 Géometrique 58 Agate 61 Anisa Fairisle and lace wrap 65 Winter Yoke Gansey 84 Uradale shawls

78 80 81 83

Sheep blankie Princess Dreams Clayoquot toque Alpaca moo hat and mittens Aviator’s hat

HOME Oran floor cushion 69 Positive/Negative 70 Norwegian chair socks 72 Scandi Rose bedside rug 73 Elk cushion 75 Hearts Fairisle tea cosy 68

ACCESSORIES 64 67 80

Scandi socks Jeanie snood X-factor X-fa ctor mitts

MEN’S 77 80

Neville Clayoquot toque

84

NEWS

Sho�t rows. rows...

We W e catch up on on the latest latest yarns er r Off Reade

CAPITAL CAPIT AL CRAF TERS The Great London Yarn Crawl is set to take place on September 10, and features tours of some of the most exciting yarn retailers in the capital, including Loop, I Knit London and Nest. Last year’s event attracted 120 yarn crawlers and raised more than £1,300 for charity Refuge, which supports supports abused abused women women and children. Find out more and get tickets from yarninthecity yarninthecity.com .com.

KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW 2016 The autumn Knitting & Stitching Show Show – perhaps the biggest event in the British knitting calendar – takes place in L ondon and Harrogate i n October and November November,, and we have five pairs of tickets to each show to give away. The events, at London’s Alexandra Palace on October 5 -9 and H arrogate’ arrogate’ss International Centre on November 24-27, will host hundreds of specialist suppliers selling a vast range of knitting, sewing and textile craft supp supplies. lies. There will be exhibitions from contemporary textile artists and graduates including Anthea Walsh, Debbie Lyddon, Bethany Walker and Ruth Si nger nger.. Experts from the UK Hand Knitting

Association wi ll be on hand to teach basic skills, introduce new projects and offer advice at drop-in knitting and crochet sessions. Tickets cost £14.50 or £13 for concessions and are available from theknittingandstitchingshow.com/London or theknittingandstitchingshow/Harrogate or by calling 0844 581 1302. To claim your free tickets to the event, visit our Gi veaways page at craftsinstitute. com/knitting and quote K158, closing date August 31. If you’re not lucky enough to win one of our sets of free tickets, Knitting readers readers can get £2.50 £2.50 off ful l price tickets and £1 off concessions. To To clai m your money off, quote the code K MAG1 MAG16 6 when buying tickets.

to subscribe visit c raf t sins titu te.com

GET MORE ZING KnitPro has added bigger sizes to its popular Zing range of lightweight aluminium needles which come in a range of bright metallic colours. The needles now go up to 12mm for all you super chunky knitting fans.

READER OFFER We’ve We ’ve got got five copies copies of of Martin Storey’s Storey’s Aran & Nordic Nordic Knits Knits for Kids, worth £14.9 £1 4.99, 9, to give away away.. There are 25 designs for little girls and boys, featuring aranstyle textures and cables and Nordicinspired colourwork. So if our Fairisle special has given you a taste for multicoloured knits, visit our Giveaways page at craftsinstitute.com/knitting and quote K158. Closing date: August 31.

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NEWS

WHAT’S W HAT’S THE GOSSIP? Erika Knight has added a cotton yarn to her collection, called Gossypium. The yarn is named after the plant genus from which cotton comes, and is made specially for Erika in India. Erika says: “Cotton is a soft, fluffy staple fibre that grows in a protective casing around the seeds of cotton plants of the genus gossypium. Cotton fibre is sustaina ble to grow, grow, naturally soft, breathable and hypoallergenic, making it ultimately comfortable to wear. “Gossypium cotton is a bespoke yarn, which we are proud to have made in India in the Hisar District in the state of Haryana by an eco-friendly manufacturer who is very much at the heart of the local community, promoting fair labour practices and the welfare and development of its employees.” The new yarn is a soft, matt, 100% cotton which comes in eight pastel shades taken from the British Blue Wool palette. It knits up at 20-22 stitches and 28 -31 rows rows to 10cm on 3.75-4mm 3.75-4mm need les, and has around 100m per 50g bal l. Erika has released a collection of six knitting and crochet designs for babies to go with the new yarn, including cardigans, sweaters, accessories and blankets. The designs are available as individual leaflets.

MOROCCAN INSPIRA INSPIR ATION Stylecraft’s new Batik DK is inspired by the rich and opulent colours of Morocco. The 80% premium acrylic and 20% wool blend has a soft twist and a painted, semisolid effect. It comes in a palette of 16 colours ranging from neutrals through a spectrum of bright and deep colours to darker shades. Stylecraft has released nine knitting and three crochet leaflets for the new yarn, featuri ng simple shapes, shapes, cables and interesting stitch details. There will also be an exclusive Batik Crochet-Along with Sue Pinner in September September..

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t o s u b s c r i b e v i s i t c r a f t s i n s t i t u t e . c om

Sho�t rows. rows... W hat’s on AUGUST AUG UST

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YARNDALE YARNDALE Share your passion with more than 180 exhibitors.

5- 6

BRITISH WOOL SHOW 2016 Held this year in the York Auction Mart, Murton, promoting British wool from fleece to finished products, plus wonderful items hand crafted by exhibitors.

yarndale.co.uk 24-OCTOBER 2

SHETLAND WOOL WEEK 2016 Celebrate Shetland’s native sheep, textile industries and rural farming communities.

britishwool.net

BREXIT HITS ARTESANO Artesano has gone gone into receivers receivership hip leaving some of of its orders orders unfulfilled. Owners Tom and Jenny Coomber said suppliers had refused to deliver stock in the wake of the UK’s decision to leave the European Union. The pair apologised to their customers and said the receivers would contact them individually. Artesano had recently launched a monthly yarn club, pictured here.

shetlandwoolweek.com 20

THE POP-UP WOOL SHOW High quality suppliers and showcases in Cheshire.

26-OCTOBER 2

LOCH NESS KNIT FEST A four-day festival for the international crafting community, held for the very first time this year in the heart of the Highlands.

popupwoolshow.co.uk

SEPTEMBER

lochnessknitfest.com 2-4

GREAT NORTHERN NEEDLECRAFT & QUILT SHOW Quilt displays and trade stands covering patchwork, quilting and needlecraft in Harrogate. grosvenorshows.co.uk 8-10

NEW WEIGHT FOR DMC’S NATURA DMC has released Natura Medium, a n aran-weight pure cotton designed to sit in between its Natura and Natura XL weights. The yarn knits and crochets up at around 24 stitches to 10cm on 4-5mm knitting needles or crochet hooks, and comes in 32 vibrant shades. DMC will also be exhibiting at Kirstie Allsopp’s Handmade Fair on September 16-18. 16-18.

WORLD’S FIRST “POMPOMMED” CAR This Fiat 500 car is the world’s first to be “pompommed” according to toy producer Character Options, which organised the event to promote new kids’ pompom-making kit Pom Pom Wow. Wo w. Members of the public and press were invited invited to take part in covering the car in pompoms, which took more than eight hours.

STITCHING, SEWING & HOBBYCRAFTS SHOW A day full of demonstra demonstrations, tions, creative workshops and catwalk displays in Manchester. stitchandhobby.co.uk 10

ing & tt n i n n K ow he h Sh w T g h n n i h h c Stit

THE GREAT LONDON YARN CRAWL A one-da y tour of L ondon’s finest yarn and haberdashery shops. yarnint hecity. hecity.com com 16-18

THE HANDMADE FAIR Join Kirstie A llsopp for all things hand made at The Green, Hampton Court Palace. thehandmadefair.com

OCTOBER 5-9

THE KNITTING & STITCHING SHOW Enjoy a great day out with stitching workshops and craft shows at Alexandra Palace, London. theknittingandstitching show.com 8

22-25

STITCHING, SEWING & HOBBYCRAFTS SHOW A day full of demonstrations, creative workshops and catwalk displays in Exeter. stitchandhobby.co.uk


WEST WALES WOOL SHOW Packed with live demonstrations de monstrations throughout the day and interactive workshops. westwaleswoolshow. weebly.com weebly .com

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NEWS

3OF THE BEST

ECO-CHIC KNITTING STUFF

new knitting reads

A new online retailer is cutti ng carbon footprints with its collection of eco-friendly and gorgeous knitting notions. Fay Dashper-Hughes Dashper-Hughes has spent 15 15 years working in waste management, and has set up knitit-hookit-craftit.com knitit-hookit -craftit.com to combine her love of knitting and crochet with her experience in resource management, sourcing policies and environmental standards. Products include gift and stash tags made from recycled card, place ma rkers, and a crafting pina fore with pockets for wool, scissors, needles and other notions called Miss Mini Pi nny. The pinafore is made from Belgian linen, woven in Scotland and sewn in Cheshire, where Fay is ba sed, with ribbon ties made in Cheshire and metal components from France. Fay says: “I have absolute enthusiasm for trying to understand where my items have come from. Wherever possible I like to sell stock I can source directly from the manufacturer to help cut out transport miles and reduce the fi nal product price.” More products are in the pipeline – including blocking pins, ribbons and needle gauges, and tension square gauges made in Lancashire. Find out more at knitit-hookit-craftit.com .

1. The Book of Haps by Kate Davies and Jen Arnall-Culliford The long-awaited new book by Scottish designer Kate Davies is out at last – and it’s all about shawls. Hap is a Scottish dialect word for a simple shawl or wrap, and this book features 13 beautiful patterns by designers including Carol Feller, Tom of Holland and Lucy Hague as well as Kate her self. There is also al so plenty of information about the history of shawls and their particular association with the Shetland islands. The book costs £19.99 and is available f rom Ravelry. 2. Wilder by by Kim Hargreaves Kim’s latest book of 21 designs is per fect for the in-between weather of late summer and early autumn, with a collection of short and long-sleeved jumpers and cardigans, plus accessories, all in Rowan yarns; £17 £17.95 from kimhargreaves.co.uk. kimhargreaves.co.uk. 3. Noro Silk Garden – The 20th Anniversary Collection Celebrating 20 years of Noro’ Noro’ss popular Silk Garden line of yarns, this is a beautifully presented collection of 30 designs for accessories and homewares, including shawls, gloves, hats, blankets, pillows and more; £17.99 from thegmcgroup.com.

A new knitting knitting festival festival is conference on tourism in cold-weather set to take place in Loch islands, and thought it made a great fit Ness, and we have five with Scotland’s woolly heritage heritage and the pairs of tickets to give burgeoning popularity of knitting and away – plus one pair of other crafts today. He got in touch with tickets to yarn retailer and Seyfarth, and the pair worked together to knitting teacher Catherine launch the Loch Ness Knit Fest. Sclater’s workshop on Tickets cost from £4-£20 for access to the festival, plus £10-£20 £10-£20 for presentations, Fairisle techniques techniques.. £40 for cruises and £50-£90 for workshops. workshops. Loch Ness Knit Fest For your chance to win one of five pairs takes place from September 29 to October of tickets to the festival, plus tickets to one 2, and features 36 workshops, six knitting cruises a nd 16 presentations, presentations, as well a s a host of Catherine Sclater’s Fairi sle workshops of knitting and crafting stalls. visit our Giveaways page on craftsinstitute. Fibre artist Chrissie Day, “prince of knitting” com/knitting and quote code K158. Vithard Villumsen Villumsen,, artist and knitter knitter Alice Alice Closing date: August 31. Starmore and “queen of brioche” Nancy Marchant are among the star line-up leading workshop work shopss at the the festival. festival. The event was inspired by the successful Danish Strikkefestival, organised by textile artist and designer Christel Seyfarth. Seyfarth organised Strikkefestival on the island of Fanø, off the coast of Denmark, and the event became a huge tourist attraction. Loch Ness businessman Willie Cameron heard about the event’s success at a

READER OFFER

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KNITTING HEADS NORTH OF THE BORDER

ABOVE: Loch Ness businessman Willie Cameron

teamed up with Christel Seyfar th to launch the event RIGHT: Catherine Sclater will share Fairisle tips


Knitt ting Kni ting’’s most w�nted

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KNITTING This Th is mon month’ th’ss must-have must-have yarns, ya rns, accessories and more

Narwhal Dance project bag £26, kettleyarnco.co.uk

Grass basket £19, oliverbonas.co.uk

Pet bed kits From US$144 plus plus postage loopymango.com

Cable knit mug with deer spoon £14, marquisanddawe.co.uk

Owl doorstop £10.95, rigbyandmac.com

Tea cosy pattern £2.52, etsy.com/rosalindaymes

Buttonbag baby hat gift kit £20, buttonbag.co.uk

Vintage stork s tork scissors sciss ors £4.95, dotcomgiftshop.com

Personalised Personal ised knitting stamp £29.50, notonthehighstreet.co.uk


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SPOTLIGHT SPOTLI GHT ON. ON...

BOLD PATTERNS Whether it’s jumpers, cardigans, dresses, tops or accessories, bold patterns are shouting loudly and proudly on the catwalks this season. From Temperley London’s London’s retro florals to Mary Katrantzou’s geometric designs and House of Holland’s rainbow line-up of prints and photos, bright colours are crashing into each other to create a stunning effect. Traditional Fairisle remains firmly in fashion, with Pringle and Oilily featuring colourful knits in their shows and lookbooks.

U O Z T N A R T A K Y R A Y M E L R E P M E T

Y L I L I O

H C R A M D N I H A Y N A

D N A L L O H F O E S U Y O L I H L I O

Y L I L I O

D N U A O L Z T T O N C S A F R T O A E K L Y G R N A I R M P Y R R E B L U M

I Z Z A G E R B N O T N R O H T Y B N E E R P

k he Loo h Get t

merk m Aal Uradale th m i h m on & S s e i m m a J ght wei h w per p m m u u j y l p 2

h Shilasd yarns

Dress £55 Debenhams • Trousers £49 Phase Eight • Top £27 Very Jacket £149 £149 House of Fraser • Belt £29 La Redoute

air mieson m Ja h h mit S & m

GUEST COLUMN

A time time-honour ured ed tradi traditi tio on Dr Carol Christiansen outlines the history of knitting in Shetland and looks at the craft’s role today

1930s wool and rayon Fairisle jumper from the Textile Collection

A multi-tasking knitter

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hetlanders have been knitting for 500 years. In that time they have used the proceeds to feed children, pay rents, and buy flour, sugar, and tea, as well a s tobacco and alcohol (does anythi ng change?). Knitting has allowed them to do business with German merchants, Dutch fishermen, Arctic wha lers and Antarct ic explorers, armed forces personnel, members of the British and Norwegian royal families, famous actresses, and haute couture designers. Knitting has opened Shetland to the world, a nd brought the world to Shetland. Being the curator in charge of the Textiles Collection at Shetland Museum and Archives means I work with some aspect of kn itting every day. My main job is to care for and develop the collection. I negotiate donations, conduct my own research and help other authors with theirs, and make the textiles accessible through exhibitions, publications and conferences. I work with Shetland’s rural museums and serve on the Shetland Wool Week Committee. Committee. More importantly, my role is as a general aide de camp: advising, assisting and promoting interest in Shetland textiles. I am pleased to report that in 2013 our Textiles Collection was awarded the status of Recognised Collection of National Significance in Scotland. Shetland today is very different from what it was just 50 years ago. Then industry was limited, people people lived rural ly and raised their

own food. Few women drove and most worked locally. worked locally. Knitting was was a time-hono time-honoured ured profession that could be done anytime, anywhere, and lent itself to crofting and childrearing. Although the exploitative Truck system of non-cash payments had ended, proceeds from knitting were meagre. The faster and better you could knit, the more money you made. But the industry remained true to many traditional methods and much of the knitting and all finishing were still done by hand. The need to focus on production did not deter knitters from indulging in design. The industry has always responded to customer demand, whether the eager buyer was a North Sea fisherman or the Queen. Our collection contains many garments that did not leave Shetland, but were made by knitters for themselves and their families. They reflect the knitters’ passion for experimentation in colour, pattern and style. Shetland knitters were designers first, since they did not work to prescribed patterns. Design was inspired by the interplay of natural wool colours, the complexity of knitted lace patterns, or the need to create garments that were comfortable but warm. Some unique designs entered the ma rket and i nfluenced fashion beyond Shetland’s shores, but the knitting that remained in Shetland was often more experimental than anything seen on the high street. The hand-making aspect of Shetland knitting remains its essence. Grazing sheep in common, using locally-produced wool and knitting with a belt are old methods still used.


Shetland Wool Week, now in its seventh year, celebrates this traditional, holistic approach to textile making, where visitors can indulge and learn. For centuries, toddlers were taught to knit by family members. With the oil industry coming to Shetland in the 1970s, knitting instruction became part of the primary curriculum but ended in 2010 due to budget cuts. Today there is renewed effort by families to teach knitting through organisations like PeerieMakkers ( see page 13 ). The social importance of knitti ng has also returned. Evening get-togethers, once called Cairdins because carding wool was the main pastime, have been renewed as Makkin’ & Yakkin’ groups. Tea, homebakes and gossip remain part of this time-honoured gathering. In the past 10 years I have seen a nurturing textile community develop across Shetland. Perhaps this is in response to the ever-present awareness that Shetland’s knitting tradition is fragile but still very precious. Dr Carol Christiansen is curator in charge of the Textiles Textiles Collection at the Shetland Museum and Archives and an avid knitter. Find out more about the collection at shetlandmuseumandarchives.org.uk.

Shetland Wool Week knitters

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FEATURE

Fair weather ahead Fair Isle textile expert Kathy Coull tells tells Knitting about the island’s island’s knitting history – and its future

K

athy Coull has lived in Fair Isle for 22 years after growing up in the Scottish Borders. She has been hand-spinning, knitting and working with wool for many years, and her designs range from traditional to contemporary, with some designed from memory and others using computer software. As well as hand-spinning and knitting she knits using hand-frames and even computerised machines in Shetland Mainland. She has a range of homegrown wools and products made from Fair Isle’s Isle’s sheep, and holds workshops in textile skills as well as hosting visitors to the island. What is so special about Fair Isle and its knitting tradition? It is a highly skilled indigenous craft using local resources. Knitting from Fair Isle had a global market as far back as the 1600s through barter with passing ships due to its location on a ma in trading sea route route.. Shetland Mainland kn itters adopted adopted and adapted the patterns when the demand for hand-knitted lace declined in the early 20th century. Fashion quickly adopted and further adapted the patterned knitting, which wa s made popu lar for men as sportswear in the 1920s, partly thanks to

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Sir Henry Lander’s famous 1921 painting a living heritage, at source in its environment, of Edward, the then Pri nce of Wales, and and embedded in its produce, with also for the “new emancipated women”, continuing innovation an essential ingredient. portrayed in Stanley Cursiter’s 1923 painting With such a small population, is it a The Fair Isle Jumper. challenge to keep the tradition going? Fair Isle has remained a key element in fashion ever since. The remarkable physical The Fair Isle population is small mainly because it is a very properties of warmth small island, three and durability of real miles long by a mile Fair Isle knitting were KATHY’S TOP TIP FOR and a half across, highlighted even FAIRISLE KNITTERS earlier last century, “Knitting a swatch first can save trouble in a very remote when more than 100 later on. Remember that Rome was not location. The hand hand-knitted sweaters built in a day – if something has not gone knitting and hand were ordered from frame traditions quite the way you expected there are the isle for William continue in the isle many variables to check. Join up with Bruce’s Antarctic using local wools other knitters if you can and share your expedition. Today the and reflect, as ever, unique creative journey – you can learn a traditional patterns are the individuality of lot and make friends along the way. The each Fair Isle knitter. emulated relentlessly only right thing is to enjoy what you are The challenges far beyond our shores, creating, it leaves an intangible longare to keep all the and draw those lasting value embedded in every stitch.” traditional textile who are interested in its heritage to skills alive in a the isle to experience the environment, sustainable manner in the contemporary nature, maritime and social history, its world. Fair Isle seems the obvious place to produce, hospitality, hospitality, community and the aim to do this. The island is owned by the traditional textile techniques that predate National Trust for Scotland, and its textile industrialisation and continue to this day. It is heritage continues for the nation to enjoy


FEATURE

PRESERVING TRADITIONS PRESERVING FOR THE FUTURE

through the endeavours of the islanders. It is inevitably time-consuming in comparison to mass production, as every hand knitter can appreciate. It is worth it because the results are unique, high end, authentic garments which although expensive, cost the planet less in cumulative “textile miles” than some less conscientious production methods used to satisfy the mass market. If it is truly made in Fair Isle, purchasers know they have helped to support the skills, the heritage and the economy of our island.

Is there anything knitters can do to help? Keep knitting, and if you can, come and visit the inspiri ng environment at the source of some of the world’s most aesthetically pleasing and functional textiles. Find out more about about Kathy’s accommodation and workshops workshops at kathycoull.com kathycoull.co m or follow @coullkat @coullkat on Twitter. Find out more about Fair Isle, including information on other makers and tourism, at fairisle.org.uk. fairisle.org.uk.

What is being done to meet this challenge? It is important that our island is fit for future generations. This requires investment in housing, connectivity including transport and tourism, and sustainable practices as far as possible in all that we do. The isle has a comprehensive development development plan in progress to try and “future-proof” the community and heritage. Our knitting, crafts and other produce enjoy global interest. The majority of our textiles are sold to visitors to the isle, who ca n have a guarantee of the provenance of the items and often an opportunity to meet the makers. A limited number of products are available to buy online.


As some of Shetland’s more remote remote islands face dwindling and ageing populations, the challenge of preserving its textile traditions has been enthusiastically taken up by volunteers. In 2010 Shetland stopped teaching children knitting in primary schools because of local council funding cuts. In response a gr oup of volunteers, under the auspices of charity the Brough Lodge Trust, launched the ShetlandPeerieMakkers project. Peerie makkers means “small “small knitters” in Shetland dialect, and a pilot project was set up in which skilled skilled volunteers volunteers would teach teach youngsters youngsters for for one year in five parts of Shetland. Wool Wool was supplied by Jamiesons of Shetland, but other supplies were still needed, such as the knitting belts used in traditional Shetland knitting, notebooks, pencils and expenses for the tutors. So the organisers embarked on a crowdfunding initiative which saw it raise its target of £4,500 in a week, with donations flooding in from as far afield as the US, Canada, Norway and France. Based on this success, the project raised cash for two more years through crowdfunding, and hopes to continue even longer. To To find out more and support the project, visit broughlodge. org/hand-knitting. Another current initiative is the Fair Isle Fisherman’s Kep group on Facebook, Faceboo k, which has more than 500 members all helping to promote the Fair Isle Fisherman’s Kep knitting pattern by Anne Sinclair in aid of Fair Fair Isle’s Isle’s museum museum and heritage centre, which houses a collection of Fair Isle textiles and is hoping to build an extension. Kathy Coull says: “Projects like these continue to ensure that the authenticity and integrity of the Fair Isle traditions are kept alive and well. Island knitters also host workshops in the isle and in other locations beyond.” There is also an exhibition called Fair Isle Makes Its Mark at the Shetland Textile Museum in Lerwick, and there will be workshops on Fairisle knitting during Shetland Wool Week from September 24 to October 2 (shetlandwoolweek.com) (sh etlandwoolweek.com) and at the Loch Ness Knitting Festival from September 29 to October 2 (lochnessknitfest.com).

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PROFILE

15 minutes with...

Elline Oft E Ofteeda dal l N

orwegian designer Eline Oftedal trained as a geographer and says she got into knitting “by chance”. When she is not knitting, she is director general of the Norwegian space industry association, and she has also worked in international politics. She is inspired by her country’s knitting traditions, and her 2013 book Knit Nordic incorporated some of those traditions into a collection of 20 modern designs.

How did you get into designing knitwear? Knitting i s something I have done alongside a lot of interesting jobs. I got into kn itwear

designing by chance – I opened an Etsy store to sell off all the things I had knitted. I have always made my own thi ngs, but up to then there were no patterns. One day I wa s asked to submit a design for a neckwarmer I sold on Etsy to a book i n the US. I had never written up a pattern before, but I gave it a tr y. In the end the publishe publisherr didn’t want my design, but I now knew how to write patterns. Soon after I submitted my first purpose-written pattern to Vogue Knitting and was published. That was i n 2010, and since then the journey in needles and yarn has been great fun.

“I have a lifelong love affair with Fairisle patterns” 14


PROFILE

Knit Eline’s Norwegian Chair Socks (page 70) and her Scandi Rose bedside rug (page 72)

Who taught you to knit? I grew up surrounded by yarn and creative siblings and parents. I g uess I picked it up from my mum and sisters. I must have been about five or six. What inspires you? Norway’s craft traditions are very inspiring to me. I also find a lot of inspiration when I travel and by watching people. Inspiration is something that is everywhere. What or who has had the biggest influence on your work? I juggle designing and knitting with a fulltime job, and my biggest in fluence is time. When I have ti me on my ha nds I be come more creative and develop my ideas f urther than I do in everyday situations. What are you working on at the moment, and what will you do next? I have three books outlined and ready to act on. (Note to self: I have to get one moving). I have a thing about chunky yarn at the moment and am maki ng sweaters that eat leftover leftover yarn. It’s great for tidying the yarn shelves too. What do you do when you’re not knitting? I work in the space industry as a daytime job. When I don’t knit I cook, relax in the garden, run and hike, and come home and watch movies (and knit). What are you most excited about in knitting at the moment? Chunky yarn and two or three strands of DK weightt held togeth weigh together. er. It It is fast and fun! I also have a lifelong love affair with Fairisle patterns. Are there any young designers out there you would pick as ones to watch? There are so many talented young designers it is hard to mention names. I think we might see

more of designers from Russia and Japan in the future. Young designers from these countries bring something a bit different to the knitting scene of the English-speaking world. What sort of needles do you use and why? I always use circular needles. It is probably because most traditional knitting in Norway is worked in the round. There is no need for straight needles as circular ones function as straight needles too. I use double-pointed needles when there are too few stitches to go around a circular needle. I am not fussed about what the needles are made of. I would love to come across a set of antique whale bone dpns though! If you were something knitted, what would you be and why? I would be a satellite launcher mayb e? Or a space suit? One can knit those I think. It would merge my job in the space industry industry with my knitwear designing.


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REVIEWS We W e take a look at at what’s what’s hot right right now now..

By Christine Christine Boggis, Sarah Sarah Farley Farley and Lauren Lauren Goodchild Goodchild

NATURA L KNITS FOR BABIES & TODDLERS: 12 CUTE PROJECTS TO MAKE Tina Barrett If you’re a first-time mum or grandmotherto-be, this book is the one for you. Not only are these 12 natural knits irresistibly cute, they are made using organic yarns such as pure cotton, alpaca, silk and bamboo, which are perfectly gentle for your baby’s skin. My favourite projects include a cosy cocoon, lace pyjamas and comfort blankies, but the book also features all-important essentials for mums – nursing pads and a changing bag and bottle tote. Each pattern comes with easy-to-follow instructions, and with handy tips, basic techniques and finishing touches explained in detail, even novice knitters will find something to try their hand at. LG £5.99, thegmcgroup.com

KIDS’ KNITTING COURSES

LOOPY MANGO DIY KNIT KIT: MONTAUK THROW Knitting this beautiful throw is as close as I have ever come to knitting a n actual sheep. The super-thick merino wool is only lightly twisted and there’s a slight smell of sheep to it – in a good way. The yarn ball is huge – 70cm in circumference, and it comes in a cotton project bag with enormous 35mm birch circular needles, which look like they could double up as vampire-slaying vampire-s laying weapons. weapons. I love love chunky yarns, but but knitting on this scale is a quite quite different experience. On the one hand it is really quick – the simple garter stitch blanket is estimated to take just two to three hours, so you can really see the results as they happen, but on the other hand even though the circular needle takes the weight off your wrists, the blanket does get heavy as it g rows, and towards the end I had to take regular breaks. One unexpected benefit was how good this supersized supersized knitting is for for teaching beginners beginners – because everything is so big it is really ea sy to see exactly what is going on, and even my three-year-old three-year-old daughter was able to have a go at a couple of stitches. The wool is 100% US merino, and weighs in at 115m per 1.1kg ball. I used all this to make my Montauk throw, which ended up 80cm wide and 120cm long, pretty close to the pattern target of 76x127cm, and about 4cm thick. The size is perfect for a sofa snuggle blanket but not big enough for a bed cover, but the throw felt as if it would probably stretch over time. At US$254 (£171) plus postage, this kit isn’t cheap, but the yarn and needles are of the highest quality and the final result is absolutely absolutely gorgeous. Having said that, it’s not for the process knitter – this kit produces stunning results very quickly, even for absolute beginners. Dry cleaning is recommended. CB US$254 US$2 54 plus posta ge, loopyma ngo.com

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These two books offer beginner kn itters and crocheters clear, simple pictorial instructions and lots of easy projects to get them started. Targeted at young girls to teens, both start with a n introduction to the tools and yarns involved involved,, along with a note note to parents parents and teachers teachers on how to help youngsters learn to craft. As well as photo photo instructions there are plenty of online videos to go with the books, for that extr a bit of help. Projects start with small flowers and work up up through things like coasters coasters and washcloths to bigger patterns such as hats, scarves and legwarmers, via pet toys, key rings and cushion covers. CB £9.99 each, Leisure Arts

REVIEWS

THE BOOK OF HAPS Kate Davies and Jen Arnall-Culliford This much-anticipated volume explores the hap – a simple shawl or wrap in Scottish dialect – and its role in the culture and textile history of the Shetlands. In 13 hap patterns by some of today’s top designers, it brings the traditional garment firmly into the 21st century. There are haps of all shapes and sizes, from Lucy Hague’s beautifully textured asymmetrical grey lace Uncia to Hazell Tindall’s deceptively simple simple Hamegaet with beautif ul colourwork details on the shoulders and Kate’s own square Moder Dy, which means “mother wave” and was inspired by ancient Shetland Shetland maritime navigation. My favourites include Tom To m of Holland’s cosy Hexa, the beautiful stripes of Gudrun Johnston Johnston’s ’s Lang Ayre and Donna Smith’s Smith’s tree-motif triangle shawl Houlland. CB £19.99, Kate Davies Designs

PRACTICAL SEW & MEND: ESSENTIAL MENDING KNOW-HOW Joan Gordon Concerns about the environment and unethical manufacturing practices have encouraged many of us over the past few years to think carefully about the clothes we buy and take better care of the ones we own. Despite the best efforts of our mothers and grandmothers, however, sewing on a button or mending a hem can still seem fiddly and time-consuming. With Joan Gordon’s clear instructions in front of you, however, mending suddenly looks so much easier. She lays out the kit you’ll need and some basic stitches, then takes you through the practical steps to fix your clothes, from sewing methods for different buttons to stitching up a gap in stretchy fabric. She does also live in the real world though, and has some excellent tips on emergency mends with double-sided sticky tape and the time-honoured office stapler method. With this book by your side, however, you have no excuse to leave the staples in that hem. SF £9.99, thegmcgroup.com

MINI MAKERS: CRAFTY MAKES TO CREATE WITH YOUR KIDS Laura Minter & Tia Williams Get little ones making things with help from this bright, fun book, which is packed with ideas. Two crafty mums who r un a successful blog, Little Button (littlebuttondiaries.com),, have brought together a g reat collection Diaries (littlebuttondiaries.com) of crafts for smaller children that pretty much guarantees there will never be another empty afternoon. The book is divided into sections that include Painting and Drawing, Cooking and Baking, and Cutting and Sticking; within these you’ll find great games such as Magnetic Family Faces, instruments for an entire jazz band made from recycled plastic tubs, and edible star-shaped magic wands. There are safety tips as well a s useful sources and suggestions how a project or game can be adapted for a baby sibling. A really useful resource for anyone who wants to introduce children to the joy of making things. SF £14.99, thegmcgroup.com

NORO SILK GARDEN: THE 20TH ANNIV ERSARY NORO COLLECTION Edited by Pamela Wynne Butler Ah Noro, how do we love thee ? The colou rs! The compo sition! The COLOURS! Is there any other yarn that combines so many breathtaking shades in one ball? This anniversar y collection of patterns is introduced by Eisaku Noro, who lyrically descri bes his childhood surrounded by silk. As you m ight expe ct, the col lection m ajors on shawls, wr aps and c owls, and there is plenty to interest the lover lover of texture and d rama, including an astonishing Autumn Leaf shawl. Silk Garden’s siblings Solo, Lite and Sock are all i nvolved in this celebration, so there are variations in weight as well as colour. This book is an essential for Si lk Garden lovers and has plenty for those who are interested in being won over. over. SF £17.99, Sixth & Spring


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REVIEWS

YA Y ARN RE REVIEW Jeanette Sloan is on the rocks with this month’s selection of colourful late summer yarns to subscribe visit craftsinstitute.com

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SIRDAR AMALFI AMALFI Taking its inspiration from the Italian coast, Sirdar Sirdar has has created Amalfi by Amalfi by combining 75% cotton and 25% viscose. Solid-coloured combed cotton fibres are gently twisted with a fine, randomly dyed viscose, creating bright accents of colour along the length of the yarn. When knitted this translates into a buttery soft, supple fabric with tweedy flashes throughout that knits to a standard DK tension. There’s a selection of eight new ladies’ designs on offer, featuring simple summer twinsets, lacy sweaters and cardigans, all of which are simply styled with an Amalfi coastal vibe. There are eight shades, including the intensely blue shade 757 Capri, flecked with yellow, turquoise, blue and green, and shade 753 Cetara, a beige base flecked with orange, hot pink, wine and pale pink, shown here. Machine washable at 40ºC on a wool cycle but do not iron or tumble dry. May also be dry cleaned with care. Composition: 75% cotton, Composition: 75% 25% viscose Weight: 50g Weight: 50g Length: 110m Length: 110m Rec needle size: 4mm size: 4mm RRP: £3.40 RRP: £3.40 Contact: Sirdar Contact: Sirdar E: [email protected] E: [email protected] W: sirdar.co.uk W: sirdar.co.uk

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BERGERE DE FRANCE HALO

WENDY SUPREME SUPREME DK

Bergère de France Halo is Halo is a blend of 48% acrylic, 31% wool and 21% polyester that cleverly contrasts matt and shiny effects. A fine filament of synthetic fibre is twisted in with the wool, giving the finished fabric a gentle all-over lustre that adds a touch of drama and sophistication. Both yarns are almost the same shade, making the effect more tonal than contrasting. This is a good value, versatile yarn with a great metreage which knits to a standard DK tension, producing a lightweight fabric with neat, well-defined stitches. There are eight shades including bold 39 Noir (black) and 52 Sang (red) as well as more feminine tones like 32 Metal and 21 Fleur, shown here. Ladies’ and children’s designs can be found in booklets. Machine washable at 30ºC on a gentle setting, dry flat but do not iron. May also be dry cleaned with care.

Wendy Supreme DK is is a strong, high quality 100% cotton yarn. It offers great value for m oney and is reassuringly smooth to knit or crochet, producing a cool fabric that’s ideal for heavier weight summer projects. It has a rich, crisp finish thanks to its mercerised coating, so whether you’re using it for lace, cables or plain stitches, every detail is clearly defined. Its 22 shades range from basic black and w hite to linen (1950), sprout green (1965) and bright fuchsia (1958), shown here. Pattern support is in a selection of booklets ( priced around £7.39) and leaflets (£2.99) featuring men’s, women’s and children’s garments, plus fashion and home accessories. If you’re knitting with an eye on budget you’ll be pleased to know that the cost to knit for a ladies’ mesh and cable sweater starts at around £26 for the smallest size. Machine washable at 30°C on a gentle setting, do not tumble dry and do not bleach. Dry flat.

Composition: 48% acrylic, Composition: 48% 31% wool, 21% polyester Weight: 50g Weight: 50g Length: 145m Length: 145m Rec needle size: 3.5mm size: 3.5mm RRP: £4.95 RRP: £4.95 Contact: Bergère Contact: Bergère de France T: 01606 T: 01606 883149 E: [email protected] E: W: bergeredefrance bergeredefrance.com .com

Composition: 100% cotton Composition: 100% Weight: 100g Weight: 100g Length: 201m Length: 201m Rec needle size: 3.25-4mm size: 3.25-4mm RRP: £4.35 RRP: £4.35 Contact: Thomas Contact: Thomas Ramsden Group T: 01943 T: 01943 872264 E: sales@tbramsden. [email protected] co.uk W: wendywools.co. wendywools.co.uk uk

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DMC NATURA DMC NATURA JUST COTTON COTTON DMC Natura Just Cotton is a 100% cotton yarn which consists of multiple ends gently twisted together. This creates an extremely strong, supple yarn which slips along smoothly as you work, producing a cool, lightweight fabric with a soft, fluid handle. With excellent stitch definition and a wonderful cool touch, it’s ideal for both the full heat of summer and the slightly chillier evenings. It has a standard tension of 27 sts and 34 rows on a 2.5-3.25mm needle, so it knits as a 4 ply. The yarn is brilliantly suited to crochet, where the recommended hook size is slightly smaller at 3mm. There’s a palette of 60 shades, including Prune, shown here. Pattern support for crochet can be found in a selection of loose leaflets featuring kids’ and babies’ designs, but at the time of writing there were no knitting patterns. Machine washable at 30ºC, may also be dry cleaned but do not tumble dr y. Composition: 100% cotton Composition: 100% Weight: 50g Weight: 50g Length: 155m Length: 155m Rec needle size: 2.5-3.5mm size: 2.5-3.5mm RRP: £3.50 Contact: DMC Contact: DMC T: 0116 T: 0116 275 4000 E: [email protected] W: dmccreative.co.uk W: dmccreative.co.uk

WENDY GUERNSEY GUERNSEY FIVE PL PLY Y

THE LITTLE GREY SHEEP GOTLAND LACE

MA NOS DEL URUGUAY MARINA

RICO ESSENTIALS RICO ESSENTIALS MERINO PLUS DK

As its name suggests, Wendy Guernsey Five Ply is Ply is made from five ends of 100% pure new wool which are plied and twisted together. This produces a durable, rounded yarn with just the right a mount of give to produce flat, even stitches when used for s tocking stitch, and crisply defined cables and textures when used for traditional aran patterns. Rather than having a smooth appearance, the yarn has a very subtle sheen and a slightly hairy texture, which translates into a warm, firm fabric when knitted. There’s a choice of four shades including Navy, shown here, and you’ll love this yarn if you’re looking for a traditional, nononsense yarn that offers great value. There are six patterns for cardigans and sweaters for all the family, with the cost to knit ranging from around £33-£67. Hand wash only, iron on a warm setting.

Sourced from Well Manor Farm’s flock of pedigree Gotland sheep in the Hampshire borders, Gotland is a plied and twisted yarn Lace is Lace made from 100% wool. The sheep are shorn in December to ensure the fleece is at its bes t, then housed until the weather warms up. It is hand dyed a t the farm, and because this breed is naturally grey in colour, the dyeing process creates a range of semi-solid colours, adding lots of tonal interest to the yarn both in hank and knitted form. This lustrous wool has a hairy character, similar to mohair, but while this adds a halo to the lightweight fabric when knitted, it’s not distract ing – so if you’re an avid shawl or stole knitter it’s perfect for showing every lace detail. Check online for the latest colours – including Boyfriend Jeans, shown here. Hand wash only.

Manos del Uruguay Marina is Marina is an ultrafine single ply yarn made from 100% merino wool. It has a standard tension of 32 sts on a 2.75mm needle, so if you’re after quick results this is not the yarn for you. That said, if you prefer a slower pace you will love working with this beautifully soft yarn as you can really enjoy watching how the various tones and colours are revealed while knitting. The result is a wonderfully lightweight fabric with even stitches and excellent drape. Because it’s hand dyed every hank is different, so while the generous metreage of 800m means there’s enough for lots of one-hank projects, I’d ad vise alternating hanks in larger projects. There’s a palette of 12 colours including N7338 Denim, shown here. Interestingly for a yarn of this weight, Marina has been superwash treated, so it can be machine washed with care at 40ºC.

Rico Essentials Merino Plus DK is a plied and twisted blend of 50% virgin wool and 50% acr ylic. It’s extremely high quality, and though it doesn’t have quite the same bounce as a pure wool yarn, the synthetic content adds durability – so if you’re knitting for kids or generally avoid pure wool, this is a good alternative. It’s a lovely, no-nonsense yarn to work with as it knits up smoothly with no splitting or snagging, producing a soft, even, durable fabric. The colour palette is made up of 14 classic shades including 009 Turquoise, shown here. Children’s and ladies’ designs can be found in the Knitting Idea Compact booklets 458, 460 and 483. This yarn also benefits from a superwash treatment, making it easy to care for so it can be machine washed at 30ºC on a gentle setting. Do not tumble dry. May also be dry cleaned with care.

Composition: 100% superwash Composition: 100% merino wool Weight: 100g Weight: 100g Length: 800m Length: 800m Rec needle size: 2.75mm size: 2.75mm £15.99 RRP: £15.99 RRP: Rooster Yarns Contact: Rooster Contact: 01829 740903 T: 01829 T: [email protected] ryarns.com E: sales@rooste roosteryarns.com W: roosteryarns.com W:

Composition: 50% virgin wool, Composition: 50% 50% acrylic Weight: 50g Weight: 50g Length: 125m Length: 125m Rec needle size: 4mm size: 4mm £3.75 RRP: £3.75 RRP: The Black Sheep Contact: The Contact: 01925 764231 T: 01925 T: W: blacksheepwools.co.uk W: or rico-design.co.uk

Composition: 100% wool Composition: 100% 100g Weight: 100g Weight: Length: 224m Length: 224m Rec needle size: 2.25-3mm size: 2.25-3mm RRP: £5.65 RRP: £5.65 Thomas Ramsden Contact: Thomas Contact: Group 01943 872264 T: 01943 T: [email protected] .uk E: [email protected] wendywools.co.uk uk W: wendywools.co.

Composition: 100% Gotland Composition: 100% wool 100g Weight: 100g Weight: Length: 440m Length: 440m Rec needle size: 2-3.5mm size: 2-3.5mm RRP: £18.50 RRP: £18.50 Well Manor Farm Contact: Well Contact: 07771 741346 T: 07771 T: emma@thelittlegreysheep. heep. E: emma@thelittlegreys co.uk W: thelittlegreysheep.co.uk W:


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Rowan, Sublime, WYS, Rico, Debbie Bliss, Sirdar and more. Hundreds of knitting patterns, books and accessories. Friendly,, weekly knitting club at Marple and Friendly Cheadle; expert advice; knitting up service. DMC Select Partner. Cross-stitch/Tapestry/Embroidery/Haberdashery. All major credit cards cards accepted, postal service a pleasure.

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KnittingMagazine

MHAIRI Maisie Smith Yarn Debbie Bliss Rialto DK Intermediate Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 52

This stylish tunic d ress with a fairly simple-to-knit zigzag yoke pattern taps into the trend for knitted dresses on the catwalks for the autumn winter season.

THE NEW FAIRISLE Inspired by the ancient traditions of beautiful Fair Isle in the Shetlands, Knitting's designers have adopted colourwork colourwork motifs in i n trendy tops, shawls and accessories. From simple patterns for Fairisle newbies to fiendishly difficult designs knitted in the round with the isle's traditional steek, there is something here for ever y knitter kn itter..

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F�shi F �shion on g�ll g� llery ery DRAMA QUEEN

Pat Menchini Yarn Rico Creative Melange DK Yarn Rico and Rico Essentials Merino Plus DK Skill level Intermediate Intermediate Pattern page 54 page 54 A pretty leaf pat tern in black contrasts with the bold self-striping colours of Rico's new Creative Melange DK in this flattering short-sleeved cardigan.

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o U p t o z e s i z U K s 30 GEOMETRIQUE

Pat Menchini Yarn King Cole Panache DK Skill level Intermediate Intermediate Pattern page 56

A regularly repeated geometric pattern creates flattering stripes on this comfortable slipover, just perfect for the in-between season weather.

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READER OFFER

Get 10% off kits to knit the Uradale shawls from trollenwol.nl by quoting K158 when placing your order. Closing date August 24 2016 2016

URADALE SHAWLS

Anne de Haan, Marja de Haan and Hilly van der Sluis Yarn Uradale Yarn Uradale Aalmerk Skill level Very Very advanced Pattern page 84 page 84 Pattern reproduced with thanks to Trollenwol These shawls were created when the owners of Dutch knitting shop Trollenwol came across Shetland's organic Uradale Farm and fell in love with its wools. I nspired by Shetland's heritage, nature, colours and sheep, they designed these beautiful cosy wraps, knitted in the round with Fair Isle's traditional steek, and definitely not for the faint-hearted.

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F�shi F �shion on g�ll g� llery ery AGATE FAIRISLE AGATE JUMPER

Jo Allport Yarn Yarn Stories Fine Yarn Yarn Merino DK and Debbie Bliss Angel Skill level Advanced Advanced Pattern page 58 page 58 Debbie Bliss's Angel blend of superkid mohair and silk adds soft textural interest to the smooth merino of this Fairisle sweater in bold, trendy colours.

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F�shi F �shion on g�ll g� llery ery ANISA

Jo Allport Yarn MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino Skill level Advanced Advanced Pattern page 61

Wrap yourself yourself in colour and texture with this beautifully soft merino shawl, which combines Fairisle, lace and cable details in a real knitter's delight.

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F�shi F �shion on g�ll g� llery ery SCANDI SOCKS

Erika Knight Yarn Erika Knight British Blue Wool Skill level Advanced Advanced Pattern page 64

These slouchy, Nordic-inspired Fairisle socks are knitted with five double-pointed needles using the stranding technique. They look great in t wo colours but could work work well in t hree or even more for a really personal effect. risle ka’s Fai See Eri erclass ng Mast strandi 49 on page

F�shi F �shion on g�ll g� llery ery WINTER YOKE GANSEY

Sandra Manson Yarn Jamieson & Smith 2 ply Jumper Weight Weight Intermediate Skill level Intermediate Pattern page 66

A beautiful snowflake and pine tree motif yoke and sweet button detail on the neck make this traditional-style gansey really stand out.

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JEANIE

Alison Robson Robson Yarn Sirdar Sublime Baby Cashmerino Silk DK Skill level Intermediate Intermediate Pattern page 67

Alison's snood was inspired by the culture of Fair Isle and is named after her Aunt Jeanie, who lived in the Scottish Borders.

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FASHION

ST Y LE FIL FILE E MHAIRI IN DEBBIE BLISS RIALTO DK

CAMEL, CHOCOLATE AND BASIL

MULBERRY, MAROON AND OYSTER

GREY, DUCK EGG AND LAVENDER

ANISA FAIRISLE FAI RISLE AND A ND LACE WR AP IN MILLAMI A NATURALLY SOFT MERINO MERINO

DENIM, TE AL AND MIST

MOSS, GR GR AS ASS AND FAWN

PE TAL, LI LIL AC AC BLOSSOM, SNOW

GEOMETRIQUE IN KING COLE PANACHE

BISCUIT AND DUSKY PINK

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OATME AL AND RUSSET T

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DUSK AND PASTURE

FASHION

Lauren Goodchild Goodchild suggests suggests alterna alternative tive colourways and styling st yling ideas for three knits from this month’s gallery gallery What better way to bridge the gap between between summer and autumn than by adding a spot of of Fairisle to your your wardrobe? By combining your your knits with hues of plum plum and teal, you’ll you’ll be sure to start start the new season off stylishly. stylishly. Pair Maisie Smith’s Smith’s Mhairi with a simple pair of leggings (or go bare-legged if you’re feeling brave) brave) and your favourite boots to stay stylish as the autumn cool arrives. Jo Allport’s Anisa is a great way to add a sophisticated pop of colour to any outfit this season. If you’re looking for something more casual, Pat Menchini’s Géometrique slipover gives the perfect dressed-down look when worn over a detailed shirt and denim jeans.

BEANIE £17,, Accessorize £17 Acc essorize

BACKPACK £179, Jig saw £179,

LEGGINGS £20, M&Co

BOOTS £45, George at ASDA

DRESS £99, La Redoute

SHOES £75, Dune

NECKLACE £99 0, London Road Jewellery

CLUTCH £150, Jaeger

SHOPPER £59, Monsoon

BLOUSE £32, Very

JEANS £45, Marks and Spencer

ANKLE BOOTS £35, Debenhams


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Homee g�ll Hom g� llery ery

SCANDI HOME SPECIAL Elegant, chic and minimalist, Scandinavian style continues Elegant, continues to be a driving trend in interior design, which is perfect for knitters who can stitch up beautiful Nordic-inspired homewares in bold colours to match their white walls and plain accessories.

ORAN

Jo Allport Yarn Stylecraft Swift Knit Super Chunky Skill level Beginner Beginner Plus Pattern page 68

Looking for a Fairisle project to get you started? This comfy and colourful floor cushion could be just the job.

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Homee g�llery Hom g�l lery

POSITIVE/NEGATIVE

Georgia Farrell Yarn Rowan Brushed Fleece Skill level Beginner Beginner Plus Pattern page 69

Look at both sides of the story with this super-soft super-soft cushion in trendy monochrome, perfect for colourwork beginners.

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NORWEGIAN CHAIR SOCKS

Eline Oftedal Yarn Blacker Yarns Pure Shetland DK Skill level Beginner Beginner Plus Pattern page 70 Stop your chairs scratching your trendy Scandi hardwood floors with these ingenious and attractive chair socks.

GET THE LOOK

Extra Tall Scandi Heart Lamp, £39.95, livelaughlove.co.uk

Daybed, £875, loaf.com

Scandi Occasional Armchair, £88, harleyandlola.co.uk

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Homee g�llery Hom g�l lery SCANDI ROSE BEDSIDE RUG

Eline Oftedal Yarn Alafoss Lopi Bulky Skill level Beginner Beginner Plus Pattern page 72 Keep your toes toasty when you get out of bed with this beautifully chunky rug – a great first intarsia project for fans of chunky yarns.

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ELK CUSHION

MillaMia Yarn MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino Skill level Advanced Advanced Pattern page 73 Pattern reproduced with thanks to LoveKnitting This intricate design, with handholding couples, hearts and elks dancing across it, is what Scandistyle knitting is all about.

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HEARTS FAIRISLE TEA COSY

Sian Brown Yarn Drops Alaska Aran and Drops Nepal Aran Skill level Advanced Advanced Pattern page 75 This aran-weight tea cosy is a great way to use up oddments of yarn as well as keeping your favourite beverage warm and stylish.

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Gifts Gi fts g�l g �llery lery

NEVILLE

Drops Design Yarn Drops Karisma Skill level Advanced Advanced Pattern page 77 Keep the man in your life warm this month w ith this trendy monochrome yoke sweater. sweater.

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Giftsts g�llery Gif g�l lery

CLAYOQUOT CLAY OQUOT TOQUE

Tin Can Knits Yarn Sweet Fiber Merino Twist DK Skill level Intermediate Intermediate Pattern page 80 Test out your Fairisle skills with this cute hat, inspired by the wild Clayoquot Sound in Canada’s far west. If you love the pattern, you can find a matching cardigan in Tin Can Knits’ book, Road Trip.

Gifts Gi fts g�l g �llery lery

PRINCESS DREAMS

Drops Design Yarn Drops Baby Merino Skill level Intermediate Intermediate Pattern page 78 This pretty pinafore in soft merino will be enough to put a smile on the face of any little princess.

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Giftsts g�llery Gif g�l lery

SHEEP BLANKIE

Jean Adel Adel Yarn Any DK and bulky yarn Skill level Beginner Beginner Plus Pattern page 76

Help wakeful babies to count sheep with this super-cute super-cute blanket.

Gifts Gi fts g�l g �llery lery S t a s h e r b u s t e

X-FACT X-F ACTOR OR MITTS

Christine Boggis Yarn MillaMia Naturally Soft Yarn MillaMia Merino Skill level Intermediate Intermediate Pattern page 80 page 80 Use up some of your 4 ply oddments and get the x-factor with these cosy mitts patterned with Fairisle crosses.

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Giftsts g�llery Gif g�l lery AVIATOR’S HAT

Bergère de France Yarn Bergère de France Ideal and Bergère de France Teddy Skill level Advanced Advanced Pattern page 82 Bergère de France’s fluff y Teddy adds the softest texture to this stylish hat adorned with a fun Fairisle pattern.

MOO HAT AND MITTENS

Tina Barrett Yarn Artesano Alpac a Inca Cloud Skill level Intermediate Intermediate Pattern page 81 Try out your intarsia technique in this super-soft alpaca hat and mitten set.

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YOUR VIEWS

ASK JEANETTE STAR ST AR LETTER LETT ER PRIZE

AS A SK JEA JEA NET NETTE TE

month’s ’s star Lesley Brown asked this month question. Lesley wins wins a copy of Milla Mia’s book Country Country Escape and 16 balls of MillaMia Naturally Soft Merino in a colour of her choice to make the Charlie Cardigan, courtesy of LoveKnitting.

Your Y our queries queries answered by by Jeanette Jeanette Sloan Sloan R S T A E R T L E T

BAFFLING BOYFRIEND SWEATER

I’m an avid knitter and love your magazine. I was delighted to get the July issue and find boyfriend sweaters, which I would have the time to knit before the autumn. However, the Honeycomb sweater by Bruce Weinstein requires Louet Gems yarn, which is apparently available only from the firm in North America, or from Pavi Yarns in t he UK, who do stock Louet but do not have the Gems yarn. What’s to be done? The apple green colour featured for the woman’s sweater is exactly what I want, but buying from the US at $15.50 a skein plus postage will make the project too expensive. I have looked for a yarn substitute, but there is no exact match, and as the pattern states that stitch definition is important to t he design, I do not want to spend out on something which isn’t exactly what I want. Can you help? Lesley Brown, by email Bruce Weinstein’ Weinstein’ss Honeycomb Sweater is knitted in Louet Gems Worsted, which, although it is available through the louet.com website, which does ship to the UK, would incur extra costs that could be prohibitive. Louet Gems Worsted is a machine washable aran weight yarn with a metreage of 160m per 100g hank that carries a recommended

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needle size of 3.75-4.5mm 3.75-4.5mm needles, but specifically for this pattern is knitted on 4mm needles. I know you were particularly taken by the apple green version of the jumper a nd so have found a couple of alternatives that are more easily available in the UK – although as always you should swatch before getting stuck into a project. In no particular order, the first is Patons Merino Extrafine A ran, which is made from If you have a question for Jeanette, 100% wool and has a metreage of 85m per email jeanettes@thegmcgrou [email protected] p.com 50g. It’s a multi-plied and twisted pure wool or write to A sk Jeanette, Knitting , yarn with a spri ngy text ure which means it GMC Publications, 86 High Street, will work well with the quilted honeycomb Lewes, East Sussex BN7 1XN. texture, and comes in a slightly stronger colour (Apple Green shade 273) than the Note: Jeanette regrets that she original. Priced at £4.29 per ball, it’s available cannot enter into any personal online from deramores.com. correspondence corresponden ce with readers and can The second yarn is Rooster Almerino Aran, only answer letters that are chosen which is a more luxurious blend of 50% wool for publication in Knitting . and 50% alpaca. The alpaca content gives the yarn a softer, buttery ha ndle, and because it’s less crispy than wool you may find it a CHUNKY CONUNDRUM bit leaner than a pure wool yarn of the same I love knitting with chunky yarns, but my weight. It has a metreage of 94m per 50g bal l interchangeable set only goes up to 6mm and and is priced at £5.75 £5.75 – have a look onl ine for my local yarn shop only stocks cheap plastic shade 306 Gooseberry at laughinghens.com. needles in big sizes, which I don’t really Last but not least, Rico Essentials Soft like knitting with. Can you recommend any Merino Aran is made from 100% superwash circular needles for super chunky knitting? merino wool and has a metreage of 100m Lara Smedley, Crawley, West West Sussex per 50g. It’s a lovely soft yarn that will work well with the text ure of the pattern, plus If you knit with big yarns on a regular basis, it’s easy to care for and comes in the pretty it’s worth investing in a good pair or set of Pistachio shade 050. Priced at £4.75 per ball, needles, and these can sometimes be tricky it’s available from blacksheepwools.co blacksheepwools.com. m. to find. KnitPro makes a chunky set of If, however you’ve really fallen for the interchangeables (available in both metal original Gems Worsted yarn and you fancy and wood) which come in three larger sizes splashing out, there is good news. I did – 9mm, 10mm and 12mm – along with three manage to get in contact with Skein Shop different cable sizes and end stops, from (skeinshop.com), a US online retailer that around £22. If you’re looking for bigger sizes stocks Louet yarns. In order to reduce the cost than that, then have a look at Knitter’s Pride’s to the customer they’re happy to share the Basix Birch range, which offers beautifully shipping costs, but you will need to pay any crafted fixed circular needles in sizes ranging import duty liable on the yarn when it ar rives from 4mm to 25mm, with lengths from 24” here in the UK. If you’ve tried to order through (61cm) to 47” (119cm). Because they’re made their website you’ll notice that it doesn’t accept of birch the needles are warm to the touch orders from the UK, but if you contact them and lightweight, which is ideal with a chunky, by email on [email protected] they will heavy yarn. Visit Handsome Fibers on Etsy to arrange to invoice you directly. directly. find out more.

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ERIKA KNIGHT MASTERCLASS

stranding F

air Isling or Fairisle is a general term used for multi-coloured stocking stitch patterns. Authentic Fairisles are very colourful with small motifs, often personal to the k nitter nitter,, repeated across a

row, using only two colours – one always carried at the back of the fabric, thus creating a double-thick fabric perfect for the cold northern European climate where these were first created.

There are two methods used when working Fair Isle patterns – stranding the unused yarn all across the wrong side of the knitting, and weaving the the two yarns togethe togetherr on the the wrong wrong side to avoid long loops of yarn.

Try out this technique by knitting Erika’ Er ika’ss Scandi socks on page 64


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STRANDING ONE-HANDED Stranding with one hand involves dropping one yarn after use, then picking up another and carrying it across the back of the work. It is important not to twist the yarns in the changeover between colours. 1

2

On a right side (k nit) row: Using the first colour, knit three stitches. Drop the yarn a nd pick up the second colour, carrying it over the dropped yarn, and k nit three stitches. Drop the second colour. 3

Pick up the first colour from underneath the second and bring it across the back of the last three knitted stitches. Knit the next three stitches, being careful not to pull the yarn too tight. 4

On a wrong side (purl) row: Using the first colour, purl three stitches. Drop the yarn and pick up the second colour, carry ing it across the last three stitches over the top of the dropped colour. Purl three stitches. Drop the second colour.

Pick up the first colour from underneath t he second, bring it across, and purl three stitches. Keep the stitches spread spread out along the right needle to avoid puckering.

STRANDING TWO-HANDED Using the stranding technique with two hands is faster than using just one, since the yarns do not need to be dropped between colour changes. Hold one colour over the forefinger of the left hand a s for the continental kn itting method, and the other according to the st yle in which you knit in the right hand. 1

2

On a right side (k nit) row: * Using the first colour, which is held in the right hand, knit three stitches.

50

Using your left hand, bring t he second colour across the back of the work, over the the top of the first yarn and knit the next three stitches in the continental style. Repeat from * to end.

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3

4

On a wrong side (purl) row: Hold row: Hold the first colour over the lef t forefinger and the second yarn in your right hand. Purl three stitches in the second colour, carrying it over the last three stitches.

Using the first yarn and the continental method, purl the next three stitches.

WEAVING If a colour needs to be carried across the back of the work over more than three stitches, it will need to be caught or woven in. It is best to do this every second or third stitch, since weaving on every stitch can distort the shape of the knitted stitch and weaving too infrequently creates loops. As with stranding, weaving can be done using either the one-handed or two-handed method. 1

2

On a right side (k nit) row: Work row: Work to the point where the second colour needs to be caught in. Bri ng the second colour up from under the one in use and over the right needle and your left forefinger from right to left. 3

Using the right needle, kn it the stitch, dropping the stitch and the carried yarn from the left needle as you do so. Hold the carried yarn in place at the back of the work, using your left forefinger, forefinger, and continue to knit using the fir st colour. 4

On a wrong side (purl) row: Work row: Work to the point where the second colour needs to be caught in. Br ing the second colour up from under the one in use and around the right needle from right to left, anchoring it in place with your left thumb at the f ront of the work.

Using the right needle, purl the next stitch, taking care not to take the carried colour through the stitch. Continue to purl following the pattern.


Extract from Simple Colour Knitting , by Erika Knight, published by Quadrille, £16.99, available now now.. PHOTOGRAPHS © YUKI SUGIURA

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c m

i n

1

Instructions

2

MHAIRI BY MAISIE SMITH

1

3

1 pair each 3.75mm and 4mm needles 1 each circular 3.25mm and 4mm needles Stitch holders Stitch markers Row counter Note: Yarn Note: Yarn amounts given are based on average requirements and are approximate.

4

5

2

6

TENSION 22 sts and 3 0 rows to 10cm over st st using 4mm needles. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

7

3

8

ABBREVIATIONS SEE PAGE 89

9

PATTERN NOTES On Chart 1 read odd (RS) rows from right to left and even (WS) rows from left to right. Read all rounds on Chart 2 from right to left. When working in patt, strand yarn not in use loosely across wrong side of work.

1 0 4

1 1

BACK AND FRONT (both alike) With 3.75mm needles and A cast on 103[11 103 [111:1 1:119:127: 19:127:135] 135] sts sts.. Knit 5 rows. Change to 4mm needles. Beg with a k row, work 6 rows in st st. Work in patt from Chart 1. Row 1: Patt 1: Patt 4[2:6:4:2] sts before patt rep, work across 12 st patt rep of Chart 1 8[9:9:10:11] 8[9:9:10:1 1] times, pa tt 3[1 3 [1:5:3:1 :5:3:1]] sts after patt rep. Row 2: Patt 2: Patt 3[1:5:3:1] sts before patt rep, work across 12 st patt rep of Chart 1 8[9:9:10:11] times, patt 4[2:6:4:2] sts after patt rep. These 2 rows set patt. Cont as set to end of Chart Row 21. Beg with a p row, using A cont in st st until Back measures 56cm/22in from c ast-on edge, ending with a p row.

Shape raglan Cast off 4[6:8:10:12] sts at beg of next 2 rows.

1 2

1 3

5

1 4

1 5 6

1 6

1 7

1 8

7

1 9

2 0 8

2 1

SIZES

A: Teal

Chart 2

B: Heather C: Ecru D:Grey

To fit: UK fit: UK size 8[10:12:14:16] 81[86:91:97:102]cm (32[34:36:38:40]in) Actual measurement: 92[99 92[99:106: :106:11 113:1 3:120]cm 20]cm (36¼[39:41¾:44½:47¼]in) Length to shoulder: 76[77:78:79:80]cm shoulder: 76[77:78:79:80]cm (30[30½:31:31¼:31½]in) Sleeve length: 33cm length: 33cm (13in) Figures in square brackets refer to larger sizes: where there is only one set of figures this applies to all sizes.

E: Mulberry k2tog skpo no stitch

YOU WILL NEED NEED Debbie Bliss Rialto DK 100% 100% merino wool (approx 105m per 50g) 9[10:11:12:13] x 50g balls 20 Teal (A) 1 x 50g ball 77 Heather (B) 1 x 50g ball 02 Ecru (C) 1 x 50g ball 04 Grey (D) 1 x 50g ball 62 Mulberry (E)

Chart 1

2 2

Chart 1 only Read odd (RS) rows from R to L Read even (WS) rows from L to R

2 9 3

2 4

2 5 1 0

2 6

2 7

2 8 1 1

2 9

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