s s e r p e v a e w r e t n i
from the publishers of Interweave Knits ®
simple-stylish-spirited
2 1 ESSENTIAL Knitting Projects sweaters • hats • vests
Master Gauge for any project
two cool sisters
6 CHIC PATTERNS
cozy &
SIMPLE page 12
�re� spirit Peek Inside
K N I T S
2 2 0 5 1 k r a l C & s t a o C 5 1 0 2 ©
Multi-Textured Cowl
LW4733
This and other free patterns available at redheart.com
2 2 0 5 1 k r a l C & s t a o C 5 1 0 2 ©
Multi-Textured Cowl
LW4733
This and other free patterns available at redheart.com
contents knitscene Winter
2015
projects 12 DESIGNER Queen Street Sweater
12
Kiyomi Burgin
Bay-and-Gable Bay-and-G able Tunic
13
Sachiko Burgin
Deep Woods Toque
14
Kiyomi Burgin
Casa Loma Jacket
15
Sachiko Burgin
Yorkville Wrap
16
Sachiko Burgin
Little Norway Pullover
17
Kiyomi Burgin
24 OUTERWEA R Red Loop Pullover
24
Meghan Babin
Kaolin Tunic
25
Moon Eldridge
Field Notes Cardigan
26
Jenn Emerson
Hipsemantic Sweater
27
Julia Farwell-Clay
Trapunto Vest
28
Katya Frankel
Chamei Pullover
28
Bristol Ivy
Snowfall Sweater
29
Jesie Ostermiller
Fire Isle Sweater
30
Amy Gunderson
32 ACC ESSORI ESSORIES ES Buffalo Checks Scarf
32
Allyson Dykhuizen
Vänskap Mittens
33
Hannah Baker
Northern Hat
34
features 12 Designer Pro�le: Kiyomi Burgin and Sachiko Burgin Teresa Gregorio
Teresa Gregorio
Morphing Cowl
34
Talitha Kuomi
Quetzal Cowl
36
Jen Lucas
Finial Hat
37
Brenda Patipa
Hotpoint Socks
18 Our New Favorite Pocket Technique: Slit Pockets Kiyomi Burgin
departments 02 Editor’s Note 06 Materials A Closer Look Pattern Reading Book Talk
96 Blogspotting: Hands Occupied
Above: Bay-and-Gable Tunic, page 13 Above: Bay-and-Gable Cover: Queen Cover: Queen Street Sweater, page 12
37
Lara Smoot
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Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. We’ve made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. However, human errors do occur. If you have questions regarding a pattern in this issue, please visit us online at knittingdaily.com/errata.
Enjoy our other fine fiber magazines Interweave Knits, Interweave Crochet, knit.purl, PieceWork, Handwoven, Spin.Off, Knitting Traditions Visit us on the Web • knittingdaily.com • fwcommunity.com
>>>>>>>>> glossary
beginner: basic stitches easy: moving past scarves intermediate: pretty confident advanced: challenge myself
knitting gauge To check gauge, cast on thirty to forty stitches using recommended needle size. Work in pattern stitch until piece measures at least 4" (10 cm) from cast-on edge. Remove swatch from needles or bind off loosely and lay swatch on �at surface. Place a ruler over swatch and count number of stitches across and number of rows down (including fractions of stitches and rows) in 4" (10 cm). Repeat two or three times on different areas of swatch to con�rm measurements. If you have more stitches and rows than called for in instructions, use larger needles; if you have fewer, use smaller needles. Repeat until gauge is correct.
reading charts Unless otherwise indicated, read charts from the bottom up. On right-side rows, read charts from right to left. On wrong-side rows, read charts from left to right. When knitting in the round, read charts from right to left for all rounds.
beg BO CO dec g inc k k1f&b kwise m mm p p1f&b pm psso p2sso pwise
2
beginning; begin; begins bind off cast on decrease(s); decreasing gram(s) increase(s); increasing knit knit into front and back knitwise marker(s) millimeter(s) purl purl into front and back place marker pass slipped stitch over pass two slipped stitches over purlwise
rem rep rev St st rnd(s) RS sl st(s) St st tbl tog WS yo *
Need More Help? Visit knittingdaily.com/Glossary for a complete glossary of stitches.
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remain(s); remaining repeat(s); repeating reverse stockinette stitch round(s) right side slip stitch(es) stockinette stitch through back loop together wrong side yarnover repeat starting point (i.e., repeat from *) alternate measurements and/or instructions instructions that are to be worked as a group a speci�ed number of times
The original
Scarfie.
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L50139 Checkerboard Rib Scarf
>>>>>>>>> editorial
The
Connect with the Knitscene team and our other knitting titles at knittingdaily.com and on Twitter (@AmyPalmerKnits).
idea of “essential” is both �uid and not. There are technically only three essentials in life—food and water, shelter, and clothing—yet we all have things that we feel we just can’t live without. Pulli ng together a collection of “essential winter knitwear” is likewise hard to pin down. The obvious: outerwear and accessories. But the particulars —that’s where life and knitting both get interesting. I asked designers to send in their own ideas of essential wi nter knitwear and received some outstanding submi ssions. The collection in these pages represents my ideal of Knitscene’s winter essentials. From close-�tting layers to more �owing tops in the outerwear story (pages 24–30) to both classic and experimental takes on accessories (pages 32–37), these pieces bridge traditional ideas of knitwear (see Meghan Babin’s Red Loop Pul lover or Jesie Ostermil ler’s Snowfall Sweater) with more contemporary ideas of fashion and form (such as Bristol Iv y’s Chamei Pullover or Jen Lucas’s Qeutzal Cowl) into twenty-one knitting patterns t hat are both modern and timeless. Twin sisters Sachiko and Kiyomi Burgi n, frequently featured in t he pages of Knitscene and knit.purl , caught my attention because they inherently marr y these ideas of classic and contemporary in a ll of their patterns. Their six-piece designer collection (pages 12–17) is no exception: for example, Kiyomi updates the familiar stranded-colorwork hat with t he Deep Woods Toque, while Sachiko combines comfortable texture with clever, modern details in her Bay-and-Gable Tunic. This intersection of classic and contemporary is where I feel most at home as a knitter, and I suspect a lot of you at least feel comfortable there, too. As long as knitting remains an essential part of our l ives, the traditional forms wil l never go away, but I for one am excited to see how they continue to inform new ideas and new movements in our little corner of the world. G o
o d
F o l k
Happy knitting,
P
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p h
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�hare your
projects
#knitscene follow us @interweavecraft
B
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N
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A W L
Our Beacon Shawl Kit from Knitscene Accessories 2015
4
I started this sweater last night! It’s the Pennant Cardi by @mariknits from the new #knitscene. I’m using #bijoubasinranch sport weight for the MC and then I’ll be using handspun for the yoke. Super stoked about this project!
Have you picked up the new summer issue of Knitscene yet? If so, you might see a familiar face in the Blogspotting section......#knitscene
stefaniegrrr
knittedblissjc
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get the
KIT
was so popular we quickly sold out ut of the original colors! The kit is back, in brand-new colors for cooler weather. Get your new Beacon Shawl kit today at bit.ly/ Beacon-Shawl-Aquatic, and visit Shop.Knittingdaily.com to see all the products and kits in this issue: shop.knittingdaily.com/knit ting/browse-by/inside-knitscene
>>>> materials
Get up close and personal with the Trapunto Vest. See pattern on page 68.
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m o c . s a c a p l a y k s e u l b
Harrisville Designs TM
s a c a p l A y k S
Yarns & Patterns harrisville.com 1.800.338.9415
Harrisville, NH 03450
e u l B 5 1 0 2 ©
The Linde Shift Sport Weight Baby Alpaca | 5 0 5 ta u p e
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>>>> materials
Kate Atherley
P
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E va n s
In this issue, designer and tech editor Kate Atherley explains exactly how to master the essential part of any successful knitting project: achieving gauge.
Every pattern will always list the needle sizes required.
Here’s a secret: The listed needle size is a recommendation.
The designer used that size for the sample. That’s all. If you
Jesie Ostermiller
knit tighter, you’ll need larger needles; if you knit looser, you’ll
page 29
need smaller needles.
This is what gauge is about: making sure that you use the right needle size for you. You need to match gauge so that the Cascade Yarns Cascade 220
finished piece comes out the right size. Sometimes gauge isn’t that important—a scarf can end up wider or narrower and still function as a scarf—but gauge matters very much
Sizes 35¼ (3 9¼, 43¼, 47¼, 51¼, 55¼)" bust circumference;
for a sweater. Plus if you don’t match gauge, your yarn usage
off, or a sweater that’s too small to wear. Swatching also gives
shown in size 3 5¼", modeled with 3¼ " of positive ease Yarn Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g): • #8393 navy (MC), 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5) skeins • #8010 natural (CC), 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins Gauge 20 sts and 26 rnds = 4" in St st
you a sense of how the yarn looks and feels and how it will
Tools
behave with washing.
• Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 32" circular (cir) needles
changes, and you risk running out! Make a swatch. It’s better to spend an hour swatching than spend hours and hours making a hat that’s so big it falls
The gauge information in the pattern will list a number of stitches (and rows) over four inches in a stitch pattern. Using the needle specified in the gauge information, cast on one-and-ahalf to two times the stitch count (e.g., for a gauge of 20 stitches,
• Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.
cast on 30 to 40), and work in stockinette for about five inches. If the pattern calls for gauge measured in a pattern stitch, such as seed stitch or a lace pattern, you’ll need to work your swatch in that pattern. Bind off, then wash the swatch the way you’ll wash the finished piece. The washing is critical: many fabrics and fibers change with washing, often stretching out. You need the item to fit after it’s washed, not before.
Once your swatch is dry, measure the gauge. Count the number of stitches in four inches. If the post-washing gauge matches the pattern, you’re good to go w ith those needles. If you’re getting too few stitches—for example, 19 instead of 20—try again with needles one size smaller. If you’re getting too many stitches—21 instead of 20—try again with needles one size larger. If you’re off by more than 15% on stitch gauge (three or four stitches, practically speaking), consider a different yarn: you
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can’t change the gauge that much without changing the fabric. You must match stitch gauge, but matching row gauge exactly can be difficult. If you match stitch gauge, and your row gauge is close—off by no more than a couple of rows— then you’re good to go for most patterns! Patterns that depend on set numbers of rows, such as heavily cabled projects or those with all-over lace, may require some adjustments. Ann Budd’s Knitters Handy Book of Patterns is essential to understanding knitting patterns using different gauges.
bit.ly/Handy-Bookof-Sweaters
GET THIS
BOOK
the Bento Box sits creativity awaits waves become beauty Go ahead, make someone’s day. jimmybeanswool.com/BerrocoBentoBox
>>>>>>> materials
k c o c n a H e o J
Snow Bowl Sweater
San Juans Sweater
Free Spirit Knits by Anne Podlesak It’s a well-known fact that colder weather is knitting season. Knitters knit year-round, true, but there’s something about spending winter with a lap full of yarn that is incredibly satisfying. Anne Podlesak’s new book, Free Spirit Knits, channels the A merican Southwest and beautiful war m weather, but is full of things perfect to knit all winter long. The Snow Bowl Hoodie draws its name from the Arizona Snow Bowl, which has an elevation over 10,000 feet and boasts lots of great skii ng. (I honestly did not know there was skii ng in Arizona!) The yarn used is beautiful wool from Green Mountain Spinnery in Vermont, another ski-�lled area, and the hoodie features dynamic cables on its back and sleeves. With a generous
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hood and solid zipper, you’ll be stylishly set for chillier chi llier weather. If you’re you’re looking to t o make something for a gentleman, there are several awesome options here. Check out the San Juans Sweater, which which is actually a unisex cardigan, but it’s styled on a man in the book, and I think it looks quite handsome. Named for the mountains that divide Colorado and New Mexico, the delicate colors of this cardigan call to mind “glints of snow [covering] [covering] dark gray rocks.” It’s a pattern of simple stitches used creatively and a stunner of a �nished �n ished sweater. When winter weather comes knocking, it’s sometimes necessary to escape into thoughts of warmer climes, and what better way to do so than through a beautiful, colorful,
and inspiring collection of knitwear? There’s something here for everyone, and the photography and patterns are guaranteed to make you think warm and cozy thoughts as you knit up something to keep you warm and cozy on the outside as well.
get this
BOOK bit.ly/ FreeSpiritEbook
Queen Street Sweater Kiyomi Burgin Don’t let the simple silhouette fool you—the design of this sweater is the ultimate combination of clever construction and easy knitting. Knit in pieces and seamed, this pullover features slit pockets jus t above the front hips. See Kiyomi’s tutorial on page 18 for more information on how to work this unique pocket technique. Yarn Noro Yarn Noro Silk Garden Solo, distributed by Knitting Fever Pattern page 41
Canadian COMFORT Two Toro oronto-base nto-basedd sis sisters, ters, onee incredibl on incrediblee design col co llect lection ion Teresa Gregorio
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Sachiko y
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Bay-and-Gable Tunic Sachiko Burgin The details on this hip-length tunic make it shine. From the small slit at the back hem to the slightly textured stitch on the front, all the way to the deep ribbing at the neck, this seamless sweater is an instant classic to add to your wardrobe. Yarn Plymouth Yarn Homestead Pattern page 43
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Sachiko and Kiyomi Burgin learned to knit as many of us do—their grandmother taught them the knit stitch one hot summer day when they were about twelve years old. Both girls had expressed talent in a variety of creative pursuits, but along the way the twin sisters took their common creative interests and diversi�ed their skill sets. Sachiko crochets, sews, plays the guitar, and has a degree in silversmithing and jewelry design. Kiyomi paints, sews, weaves, and has a bachelor’s degree in art and design. Their abilities to take elements of their individual craft pursuits and reimagine them in knitwear has brought them to the attention of the knitting community, not only as individual designers but additionally as Knitscene ’s �rst-ever featured designer double act.
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Y A N R Plymouth Yarn Homestead is a light and lofty aran-weight yarn. The 100% wool �ber is sure to become a classic workhorse yarn, perfect for garments and accessories alike.
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Deep Woods Toque Kiyomi incorporated a pop of bright color to elevate a traditional stranded-colorwork
hat to new levels of chic style. An unexpected color for the cast-on edge and pom-pom create a bold look; choose more muted colors for a classic look. Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light and Madelinetosh Unicorn Tails Pattern page 40
Both sisters work in the famous Toronto knitting shop Romni Wools. This es tablishment, having operated for more than forty years, is legendary in the knitt ing community for its jampacked, multilevel, �oor-to-ceiling, stock in yarn. Yarns f rom all over bit.ly/Deep-Woods-Kit
the world, in a multiplicity of colors, �bers, and text ures, enter the shop. This enriching environment nurtured both Sachiko and Kiyomi’s aesthetics. They each claim that working at Romni was integral t o their decisions to become designers, encouraged by the wealth of hands-on learning the space provided. Despite this, both sisters st ill say designing feels new to them. Each designer has about two years of experience under her belt, not only designing for yarn companies and magazines but also publishing independent patterns. Sachiko’s knitwear design demonstrates a focus on delicate twists on simple elements such as shaping, ruf�es, hemlines, and openwork. Kiyomi’s love of color and extensive study of studio art play a par t in her designs, with garment shape, drape, and structure coming to l ight in her sketches. For this i ssue, the sisters combined their individual aest hetics to create a collection of six patterns that re�ect their collective style and speak to t he importance and inspiration of their home in Canada. Beginning with a solid understanding of each other’s styles and each unafraid to crit ique the other, the sist ers sketched, swatched, and brainstormed individually, bringing their ideas together and problemsolving with great thoughtfulness and attention to detail. Where one designer thought a piece was m issing something, the other suggested a new twist or design element that helped to create a cohesive pattern and uni�ed whole.
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Their jumping-off point for t his collection was a grouping of key ideas surrounding their vision of Canadian identity: natural spaces, a sense of home, and comfort. Both Kiyomi and Sachiko have traveled across Canada. The vast tracts of countryside and stunning natural beauty helped to form their ideas of home and inspire their focus on layers of cozy, woolly warmth, perfect for a winter knitwear collection. Canada certainly has a reputation for its winters, but there’s a distinct comfort and wearability in the Burgins’ designs t hat showcases Canadian character wit hout being a stereotype. These designs cloak the knitter in layers of heat-trapping yarn that enable a stylish comfort in the colder months. They also give the knitter the experience of a clever knitting process and a �ni shed item that delivers a warmth beyond the physical kind; an enjoyment of the knitting itself. Thick, woolly textures, comfy shapes, and styli sh, yet neutral, colors call t o mind t hose nights where you just want to cuddle up to the �re, warm and happy. All t hree of Sachiko’s pieces in th is collection demonstrate her drive to come up with new and different forms in her design work. As a self-described process knitter, she pays particular attention to the behavior of s titch patterns. A great example of this is the soft upward sweep of the f ront hemline on the Bay-and-Gable Tunic, where the trellis panel itself draws the sweater into a soft hi-lo shape without having to work any shaping into the stitches. Kiyomi draws her ins piration from what she can envision herself wearing. She calls herself a product knitter and looks to incorporate special details into basic shapes that anyone would want to knit. Her designs can be bes t described as modern, refreshed clas-
Casa Loma Jacket Thoughtful construction makes this layering vest a standout example of how knitwear can be in�nitely cool and wearable. Knit in one piece to the underarms, Sachiko devised a plan to join the front and back pieces in a way that simultaneously creates cap sleeves. Simple moss stitch, pockets, and classic toggles add understated functionality. Yarn Quince & Co. Puf�n Pattern page 45
sics, familiar silhouettes combined
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with comfortable, wearable details. You can see this in her Queen Street Sweater, where well-placed pockets seamlessly �ow f rom the front of the sweater into a perfectly picked spot where your hands would naturally, comfortably lay. Sachiko and Kiyomi have a dedication to and enthusiasm for knitting. They have both struck a chord of attractive style and substance that resonates with many knitters. Each, in her own way, infuses great thoughtfulness into her design work. Even though they both say their design journey still feels new, they demonstrate a great knowledge base, and they express the excitement that many of us knitters feel about the unending scope to learn more about knitting. Thi s energy is felt t hrough their designs. You can �nd more about them online on Ravelry and Instagram; Sachiko is sachikobee, and Kiyomi is kiyomibee.
Teresa Gregorio is another Canadian knitwear designer, who has published designs independently and for publications such as Knitscene and Holla Knits . See more of Teresa’s adventures at www .canaryknits.com. Yorkville Wrap Take everything you know
about V-shaped shawls, make it bigger and bold er, but keep the knitting interesting with a simple lace repeat—and you have Sachiko’s oversized wrap pattern. The wings are knit separately and then joined modularly for a seamless knitting experience. Yarn Rowan Felted Tweed Aran, distributed by Westminster Fibers Pattern page 46
Photo by Joe Hancoc k
want
MORE? Find more patterns from Kiyomi & Sachiko at bit.ly/Burgin-Patterns 16
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Little Norway Pullover Kiyomi Burgin This seamless sweater, knit from the bottom up, features an eye-catching and easy chevron colorwork pattern, drawing the eye toward the wearer’s face. A small pocket on the front mirrors the chevron pattern and adds a surprising,
functional detail. Yarn Istex Léttlopi, distributed by Westminster Fibers Pattern page 38
out t hi s
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Lopi yarns have become quite popular in the last few years, predominantly featured in classic yoke sweaters such as the Little Norway Pu llover. Istex Léttlopi is one of the most versatile of these yarns. Spun from the �eece of Icelandic sheep, this worsted-weight yar n is both incredibly lightweight and unbelievably warm, making it perfect for outerwear l ayers.
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>>>>> tutorial uto a
Queen Street Sweater Pattern page 41
A N D G A I N I N G T H E C O N F I D E N C E TO F I N I S H A N Y T H I N G Kiyomi Burgin
This might sound familiar: You’ve spent hours, possibly weeks, or even months, inching through complicated colorwork charts, meticulously counting stitches over rows of intricate lace or diligently stitching up miles of stockinette stitch. And it’s �nally done. Except for one �nal step—FINISHING! The number of times I’ve heard of knitters abandoning their beautiful hard work at the �nishing stage makes me sad. How can it be they would rather give up than face the �nal seam s, pick up a neckline, set in a sleeve, or complete a pocket?! Don’t give it up—instead, arm yourself with the right resources, tools, and mindset, and you will discover �nishing is not dif�cult or painful. When the metamorphosis of your time, energy, and gorgeous yarn results in beautiful form, well, it’s nothing short of wondrous. The Queen Street Sweater is a very simple design, so do not be intimidated by the pockets. The goal of this tutorial 18
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is to provide the techniques t o complete the slit pockets so they will fold effortlessly into the garment, givi ng your pullover a clean �nish, and make all that stockinette stitch worthwhile. These techniques can be used for other knit projects as well. Before you get started, block the front piece of your project so that everything is �at and is easy t o see (Figure 1). Although this is optional, I highly recommend it. Find a well-lit, �at work s urface, and let’s get started!
1
2
STEP 1: PICK UP THE STITCHES
2a
For this step, you will � rst be picking up stitches along the cast-on edge of the upper pocket �ap. This area will be visible if the pocket is open or gapes a bit while wear ing, so you want to create the illusion that it is a continuous piece of knitting and that there is no cast-on edge. With right side facing, insert the needle tip i nto the "V" of each stitch just below the cast-on edge and pull yarn through (Figure 2 and 2a). Repeat this in every stitch along cast-on edge until you reach the corner gap. Now you will be picking up stitches along the side (selvedge edge) of the lower pocket �ap. Skip over the corner gap (don’t worry, it will close once you start knitting) and pick up stitches in the spaces between the purl bars one stitch from the edge. I recommend picking up three stitches for every four rows. Once all stitches have been picked up, knit your pocket �ap to its requi red depth.
NOTE: All instructions are for the left pocket. I have used a plain yarn for some steps here to clearly show techniques.
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>>>>> tutorial
3
4
STEP 2: CLOSE THAT BOTTOM After you’ve knitted enough rows for the depth of your pocket, turn your work to the wrong side as carefully as you can (since you still have live stitches on your needles; you don’t want to lose any at this step). Now it’s time to do a t hree-needle bind-off. Arrange your stitches so there is an even number at each end of your circular needle. If you �nd s traight or double-pointed needles easier to manage, you can change needles. Now you’re ready to work the three-needle bind-off (Figure 3). See how it’s done at knittingdaily.com/Glossary. If a three-needle bind-off isn’t appealing, skip the previous step, and bind off all stitches as usual, then whipstitch the bottom closed. A lternatively, graft the live stitches using Kitchener stitch to close the bottom. Do t his with the right side of the work facing.
STEP 3: SEW UP THE SIDE OPENING Thread a long piece of yarn onto a tapestry needle and, with the right side facing and starting at the pocket �ap bottom, sew the remaining side of pocket closed using mattress stitch. Mattress stitch is my favorite! It creates a beautiful invisible seam and isn’t hard to do. See more detailed instructions at knitting daily.com/Glossary. At �rst you will be sewing row to row, then it will change to bound-off stitches to rows. For the latter, insert needle behind “V” of stitch just below bound-off edge. On the other side, alternate between picking up one or two ba rs (Figure 4). Don’t pull too tight! When using single-ply yarns such as Noro Silk Garden Solo, you might want to add extra twist to the yarn by rolling the threaded tapestry needle in your hands in the direction that the yarn is spun. This will give the yarn a bit more strength for seaming. 20
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Halcyon Yarn halcyonyarn.com 800. 341.0282 12 School St. Bath, Maine •
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>>>>>>>>> tutorial
6
5
STEP 4: ONE LAST STEP Tuck pocket to the wrong side of work, weave in any ends, and let out a big sigh with relief because your � rst slit pocket is done (Figures 5 a nd 6)! Congratulate yourself and k now that you are a superstar kn itter. Your knitting and non-knitting friends alike are sure to be impressed by those pockets. And if your �nishing job isn’t quite as perfect as imagined, no worries. As much as I’m a stickler for �nishing, I stil l believe that slight imperfections are what make handmade garments special and unique. Washing and blocking your sweater again will help even out stitches. Also, textural yarns such as Noro Silk Garden Solo are very forgiving since they camou�age any little mishaps. Kiyomi Burgin lives in Toronto, Canada, where she helps knitters find yarns and figure out techniques at Romni Wools. Keep up with Kiyomi and all her artistic pursuits at www.kiyomiburgin.com.
WANT MORE? Go online to �nd thousands of patterns as well as instructional videos!
knittingdaily.com 22
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Expecting a little mischie?
w w w
.
br ow ns hee p c o m .
But you’re not worried. You have them wrapped in Lamb’s Pride Superwash , the 100% wool yarn that can stand up to kids AND the wash! Those little mishaps are no problem with this specially coated fiber that won’t quiver at the sight o a washing machine. Beauty and durability collide in Lamb’s Pride Superwash with a choice o 57 colors in 3 weights. Discover inspiration with Lamb’s Pride Superwash!
Brown Sheep Company, Inc. MITCHELL, NEBRASKA
Winter15 Knitscene
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Red Loop Pullover Meghan Babin Every winter essentials collection needs a man’s cabled sweater, and Meghan Babin delivers this
issue’s version with style. Knit �at and seamed, this pullover features timeless staghorn and rope cables combined with a cabled center panel. The shawl collar is worked in �nishing and grafted for a seamless neckline. Yarn Imperial Stock Ranch Erin Pattern page 50
OUTE 24
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Kaolin Tunic Moon Eldridge This swingy, �attering tunic is worked with simple two-color linen stitch at the hem, cuffs, and folded c ollar. Knit in the round from the top dow n, this pullover features delicate fan-shaped
increases along the raglan lines. Yarn Valley Yarns Colrain, distributed by WEBS Pattern page 54
WEAR Winter15 Knitscene
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Field Notes Cardigan Jenn Emerson The essential winter cardigan is updated with deep ribbing and slight asymmetry for a modern edge. Worked in one piece from the top down, this long layering piece features seamless sleeve construction and a cozy rolle d collar. Miss Babs Yowza! Yarn Miss Yarn Whatta Skein! Pattern page 56
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Hipsemantic Sweater Julia Farwell-Clay Garter ridges, rib columns, and set-in sleeves, oh my! This incredible pullover keeps the knitting interesting by simultaneously combining simple textural elements with waist shaping for a clever look in a familiar sweater construction. Yarn Sincere Yarn Sincere Sheep Luminous Pattern page 62
OUTERWEAR Winter15 Knitscene
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Trapunto Vest Katya Frankel Inspired by quilted down puffer vests, Kat ya created this eye-catching layer with wide sweeping cables—but reversed the wrong side to the right side to achieve the quilted look. Worked in one piece from the bottom up and closed with a zipper, this vest is sure to become a winter wardrobe staple. Yarn Rowan Pure Wool Worsted, distributed by Westminster Fibers Pattern page 68
out t h hi s
b a
Y A N R
We love this vest in the Rust color of Rowan Pure Wool Worsted, but this superwash wool yarn comes in so many colors, it’s hard to choose our favorite! This great yarn is a lso available in DK and �ngering-weight �ngering-weight versions.
Chamei Pullover Bristol Ivy A bias panel of twisted moss-stitch patterning travels across the front of this pullover before carrying around the neck to form the funnel-neck collar. The clever construction makes for a one-of-a-kind sweater to show off all winter long. Yarn Pigeonroof Studios American Twist Worsted Pattern page 74
OUTERWEAR 28
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Snowfall Sweater Jesie Ostermiller A classic snowfall colorwork pattern graces the front and back yokes of this knitted pullover. Saddle shoulders join the three-quarter-length sleeves to the body, creating a timeless sw eater to wear for years to come. Yarn Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 Pattern page 78
out t hi s
b a
Y A N R Just as we focused on essential pieces for this issue, we looked to essential workhorse yarns for most of the projects, and Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 is no exception. As an affordable and durable wool yarn, this classic worsted weight is hard to beat—the fact that it comes in a mill ion colors means you have limitless options for your knitting projects.
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Fire Isle Sweater Amy Gunderson This show-stopping sweater marries pronounced texture and stunning colorwork in side-to-side construction. The stranded colorwork is only worked on the front—the back carries the textured slipped rib pattern the whole way—and is topped by a loose tur tleneck. Yarn Fibra Natura Llamalini, distributed by Universal Yarn Pattern page 71
OUTERWEAR 30
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Shawl Pattern Included!
t t ing w i t i n h
K
Ombré & Gradient Yarns • Tips & Tricks for the Best Results • with Tina Whitmore
Coming this fall! Shop.KnittingDaily.com
Buffalo Checks Scarf Allyson Dykhuizen Broad swaths of color, worked in blocks, mimic the buffalo checks pattern of classic plaid fabric. Knit in a lofty worsted-weight yarn, this long scarf can be wrapped around the neck for extra insulation. Yarn Brooklyn Tweed Shelter Pattern page 83
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Vänskap Mittens Hannah Baker A pair of mittens is essential to most winter outings. This pair, with broad stripes and a hem that can be tucked in for extra warmth, is easy to knit and quick, too. Yarn Halcyon Yarn Botanica Pattern page 82
sories Winter15 Knitscene
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Northern Hat Teresa Gregorio Two colors of chevrons adorn the top of this hat, while the deep ribbing means it will stay snug on your head and keep your ears warm! Knit �at to accommodate the intarsia charts, this hat works up quickly in worsted-weight yarn. Yarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Worsted Pattern page 84
Morphing Cowl Talitha Kuomi Combining subtle texture with slightly variegated yarn, this long looping cowl is a great accessory to snuggle into those times you have to venture outside in chilly winter winds. This cowl is k nit �at and grafted in pattern at the end. Yarn Malabrigo Rios Pattern page 85
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Accessories Winter 15 Knitscene
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Quetzal Cowl Jen Lucas A lace and cable pattern is worked �at into a scarf-like shape before one side edge is whipstitched for a few inches to form this light, airy cowl. A yarn made with a warm �ber, such as the baby alpaca in this blend, will keep you toasty whether you wear this cowl hanging down or looped around your neck. Yarn The Fibre Company Canopy Fingering, distributed by Kelbourne Woolens Pattern page 88
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Finial Hat Brenda Patipa A cushy hat is key to winter m onths survival—this offering, worked in the round, pairs wide cable-and-garterstitch panels with a slightly heathered alpaca-blend yarn. Knit yours while cozying up to a cup of coffe e before braving the elements to attend knit night. Yarn Berroco Ultra Alpaca Pattern page 90
Hotpoint Socks Lara Smoot Vertical zigzags travel down the leg of these top-down socks, with the heels and toes worked in the contrast color. Slip on these comfy sock s to wear around the house to ward off a chill. Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock Pattern page 92
Winter15 Knitscene
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arm. The sleeves are worked separately in the round, then the sleeves and body are joined to work the yoke. Short-row shaping is used to create a more comfortable fit in the back after the yoke is joined in the round.
D e s i g n e r
The chart is worked using the stranded method. Always pick up the first color
over the second and pick up the second color from under the first; this wi ll prevent
tangli ng. Keep floats loose. For floats lon-
ger than 5 stitches, twist yarns together on wrong side of work. When working the yoke shaping, change to shorter circular needle when necessary. Stitches
S2kp2: Sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, pass 2
sl sts ove r—2 sts dec’d.
With MC and smaller, longer cir needle,
Kiyomi Burgin p a g e 1 7
CO 158 (168, 180, 192, 200, 210) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib u ntil piece measures 1½" from CO. Change to larger cir needle and St st. Work even until piece mea sure s 14 (14, 14½, 15, 15½, 16)" from CO, end ing 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) sts before end of rnd on last rnd. Do not break yarn. Set aside.
Istex Léttlopi
Sizes 35 (37¼ , 40, 42¾, 4 4½, 46¾ )" b ust circumference; shown in size 35", modeled with zero ease Yarn Istex Léttlopi (100% wool; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g): • #9426 golden heather (MC), 8 (9, 9, 10, 11, 12) skeins • #9420 navy blue (CC1), 1 skein • #0054 light ash heather (CC2), 1 skein Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers Gauge 18 sts and 26 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needle
Cuff: With CC1 and smaller 16" cir needle, CO 41 (41, 43, 45, 45, 47) sts. Do not join. Purl 1 row. Change to MC. Knit 1 row. Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p3, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p4. Row 2 (RS; buttonhole row) Sl 1 kwise wyb, k1, yo, k2tog, *p1, k1; rep from * to last
5 sts, p1, k4. Row 3 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p3, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p4. Row 4 Sl 1 kw ise wyb, k3, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k4.
Row 5 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p3, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p4.
Row 6 Sl 1 kw ise wyb, k3, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k4. Rep last 6 rows 2 more times, then work Row 1 once more. Change to larger dpn and St st. Joining rnd (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, hold last 4 sts of rnd behind first 4 sts of rnd, [k2tog (1 st from beg of rnd and 1 st from end of r nd)] 4 times— 37 (37, 39, 41, 41, 43) sts rem. Next rnd K25 (25, 26, 28, 28, 29), pm for beg of rnd. Next rnd Knit, inc 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 0) st—37 (38, 40, 42, 42, 43) sts. Shape sleeve: Work 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8) rnds even. Inc rnd K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts i nc’d. Rep I nc rnd every 8 (7, 7, 7, 6, 6)th rnd 9 (10, 10, 10, 11, 12) more times—57 (60, 62, 64, 6 6, 69) sts. Work even unti l piece mea sure s 17 (17½, 17½, 18, 18, 18½)" from CO, end ing 4 (5, 5 , 5, 6, 6) st s before end of rnd on last rnd. Place next 8 (9, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts on holder for underarm—49 (51, 52, 53, 55, 57) sts rem. Break yarn, leaving an 18" tail for graf ting. Place sts on holder.
Cuff: With CC1 and smaller 16" cir
needle, CO 41 (41, 43, 45, 45, 47) sts. Do not join. Purl 1 row. Change to MC. Knit 1 row. Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p3, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p4. Row 2 (RS; buttonhole row) Sl 1 kwise wyb, k3, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, ssk, yo, k2. Row 3 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p3, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p4. Row 4 Sl 1 kw ise wyb, k3, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k4. Row 5 Sl 1 pwise wyf, p3, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p4. Row 6 Sl 1 kw ise wyb, k3, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k4.
Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" and 24–40" circular (cir) needles, depending on size you are making, and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 24–40" circular (cir) needles, depending on size you are making • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • Six 5 ⁄ 8 " buttons
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
The body of this pullover is worked in the
round from the lower edge to the under-
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17¾ (1 8¾, 19½ , 20½ , 21¼, 22¼ )"
" ) ¼ 0 1 , ¾ 9 , ¼ 9 , 9 , ¾ 8 ( ¼ 8
17 ( 17 ½ , 17 ½ , 1 8 , 1 8 , 1 8 ½ ) "
" ) 6 1 , ½ 5 1 , 5 1 , ½ 4 1 , 4 1 ( 4 1
8¼ (8½ , 9, 9¼, 9¼, 9½ )"
body
12¾ (13¼, 13 ¾, 14¼, 14¾ , 15 ¼)"
35 (37¼ , 40, 4 2¾ , 44½ , 46¾ )"
Rep last 6 rows 2 more times, then work Row 1 once more. Change to larger dpn and St st. Joining rnd (RS) Knit to last 4 sts, hold last 4 sts of rnd in front of first 4 sts of rnd, [k2tog (1 st from end of rnd and 1 st from beg of rnd)] 4 times—37 (37, 39, 41, 41, 43) sts rem. Next rnd K8 (8, 9, 9, 9, 10), pm for beg of rnd. Next rnd Knit, inc 0 (1, 1, 1, 1, 0) st—37 (38, 40, 42, 42, 43) sts. Shape sleeve: Work as for left sleeve.
89, 93) back sts—240 (252, 264, 276, 28 8, 300) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Shape back using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) K6, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to 6 sts past side m, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 3 Knit to 2 sts past beg-of-rnd m, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Purl to 2 sts past side m, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 5 Knit to 2 s ts before beg-of-rnd m,
Joining rnd With MC attached to body and larger cir needle, place next 8 (9, 10, 11, 11, 12) body sts on holder, k49 (51, 52, 53, 55, 57) left sleeve sts, k71 (75, 80, 85, 89, 93) front sts, pl ace next 8 (9, 10, 11, 11, 12) body sts on holder, k49 (51, 52, 53, 55, 57) right sleeve sts, pm for side, k71 (75, 80, 85,
wrap next st, turn. Short-row 6 Purl to 2 sts before side m, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 7 Knit to 8 s ts before beg-of-rnd m,
wrap next st, turn. Short-row 8 Purl to 8 sts before side m, wrap next st, turn. Next rnd Knit to end, working wraps tog
with wrapped sts. Knit 1 rnd, working rem wraps. Work even until piec e measu res 2½ (3, 3¼ , 3½ , 4, 4½)" from unde rar m at f ront, removing side m. Work Rows 1–29 of Chevron chart, working Rows 9, 19, and 25 as foll: Knit to last st, sl 1 pwise, remove m, return sl st to left needle, pm for new beg of rnd—80 (84, 88, 92, 9 6, 100) sts rem. Break CC1. Cont with MC on ly. Neckband: Next rnd Knit, dec 8 (10, 12, 14, 16, 20) sts evenly spaced—72 (74, 76, 78, 80, 80) sts rem. Change to smaller 16" cir needle. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1". Loosely BO all sts in patt.
Finishing
Pocket: With MC and larger needle,
CO 19 sts. Do not join. Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) K1, M1R, k7, s2kp2 (see Stitches), k7, M1L, k1. Rep last 2 rows 5
MC
CC1
CC2
k2tog with MC
no stitch
pattern repeat
Chevron 29 27 25 * 23 21 19 * 17 15 13 11 9 * 7 5 3 1 12 st to 4 st repeat * Work as given in directions
Winter15 Knitscene
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r e n g i s e D
D e s i g n e r
more times. Change to CC1. Rep last 2 rows 2 more times. Next row (WS) Knit. Next row (RS) K1, M1R, k7, s2kp2, k7, M1L, k1. With WS facing, BO all sts kwise. Sew pocket about 2" above bottom rib and 2" in from left side. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, graft u nderarm sts using Kitchener st. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew 3 buttons to each cuff opposite buttonholes.
See kn ittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This hat is worked in the round from the
bottom up. The chart is worked using the stranded method. Always pick up the first color
over the second and pick up the second color from under the first; this wi ll prevent
tangli ng. Keep floats loose. For floats lon-
ger than 5 stitches, twist yarns together on wrong side of work.
Hat
With smaller cir needle and CC2, CO 144 sts. Place marker and join in the
Kiyomi Burgin
p a g e 1 4
Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light
Size 18" head circumference and 12" tall with brim unfolded Yarn Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light (100% superwash merino wool; 420 yd [384 m]): • whiskey barrel (MC), 1 skein Madelinetosh Unicorn Tails (100% superwash merino wool; 52 yd [48 m]): • big sur (CC1), 2 skeins • neon peach (CC2), 1 skein Gauge 33 sts and 34 rnds = 4" in charted patt on larger needles
Tools • Size 3 (3.25 mm): 16" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 2 (2.75 mm): 16" cir needle • Marker (m) • Tapestry needle
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rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 1 rnd. Break CC2. Join MC. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 5¼" from CO. Cha nge to la rger cir needle. Work Rnds 1–58 of Tree chart, changing to dpn when necessary—24 sts rem. Break CC1. With MC, knit 1 rnd. Next rnd [K1, k2tog] 8 times—16 sts rem. Break yarn and draw ta il through rem sts. Pull tight to gather sts and fasten off on WS.
Finishing
Block to measurements. Weave in ends. Fold rib brim in half to RS. With CC2, make 1 pom-pom about 2" in diameter and sew to top of hat.
MC
With larger straight needles, CO 81 (90, 99, 108, 117) sts. Rib: Next row (WS) P2, *k2, p1; rep from * to last st, p1. Next row (RS) K3, *p1, k2; rep from * to end. Rep last 2 rows until rib measures 3" from CO, ending with a WS row. Work in St st until piece measures 22½ (2 3, 23½ , 24, 24½)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders and neck: Next row (RS) BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts, k17 (20, 23, 25, 28) (including st rem on right needle after BO) and place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO 29 (30, 31, 32, 33) sts, knit to end—26 (30, 34, 38, 42) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: At be g of WS rows, BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts 2 times, then BO 8 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts once—no sts rem. Right shoulder: Return 17 (20, 23, 25, 28) right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Purl 1 WS row. At beg of RS rows, BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts once, t hen BO 8 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts once—no sts rem.
CC1 sl 2 sts as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso— 2 sts dec’d no stitch pattern repeat
Tree 57 55 53 51
49 47
Queen Street
45
43
Kiyomi Burgin
p a g e 1 2
41 39 37 35 33 31 29 27 25 23
Noro Silk Garden Solo
Sizes 40½ (4 5, 49½, 54, 58½ )" bust circumference; shown in size 40½", modeled with 9" of positive ease Yarn Noro Silk Garden Solo (45% silk, 45% mohair, 10% wool; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g): • #5 caramel, 9 (10, 11, 12, 13) skeins Yarn distributed by Knitting Fever Gauge 16 sts and 22 rows = 4" in St st on larger needles
Tools 21 19 17 15 13
• Size 8 (5 mm): straight and 16" circular (cir) needle • Size 7 (4.5 mm): straight needles • Markers (m) • Removable m • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle
11 9
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.
7 5
12 st to 2 st repeat
Back
Notes
This pullover is worked back and forth in
3
separate pieces and seamed. The pockets
1
are formed by working a triangular flap on each side of the diagonal p ocket opening, then picking up stitches along one
edge of each triangle for the inner pocket.
See the article on page 18 for a step-bystep tutorial for working the slit pockets.
Work as for back until rib measures 2", ending with a WS row. Work in St st until piece measures 5 (5½ , 6, 6½ , 7)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Divide for pockets: Next row (RS) K13 (15, 17, 19, 21) and place these sts on holder for left front, k55 (60, 65, 70, 75), place rem 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) sts on holder for right front—55 (60, 65, 70, 75) center sts rem. Center section: Work even for 21 (23, 25, 27, 29) more rows, ending with a WS row. Shape sides of first pair o f tria ngles as fol l: BO 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts at beg of next 2 rows—23 (26, 29, 32, 35) sts rem for center front. Break yarn and place sts on holder. Left pocket (2nd triangle): Return 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) left front sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Purl 1 row. Knit 1 row. Next row (WS) Using t he cable method, CO 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts for 2nd triangle, purl to end—29 (32, 35, 38, 41) sts. Work even until side of triangle measures same length as center section, ending with a RS row. Break yarn and place sts on holder. Right pocket (2nd triangle): Return 13 (15, 17, 19, 21) right front sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Knit 1 row. Purl 1 row. Next row (RS) CO 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts for 2nd triangle, knit to end—29 (32, 35, 38, 41) sts. Work even until side of triangle measures same length as center sect ion, ending with a RS row. Joining row (WS) P29 (32, 35, 38, 41) right front sts, return 23 (26, 29, 32, 35) center front sts and 29 (32, 35, 38, 41) left front sts to needle with WS facing and purl to end—81 (90, 99, 108, 117) sts. Work even until piece measures 18¾ (19¼ , 19¾, 20¼, 20 ¾)" from CO, ending
Winter 15 Knitscene
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r e n g i s e D
6½ (7½, 8½, 9½ , 10½)"
7¼ (7½, 7¾, 8, 8¼)"
1"
D e s i g n e r
3¾"
front & back 21½ (2 2, 2 2½ , 23 , 23½ )
1"
20¼ (22½ , 24¾, 27, 2 9¼ )"
14½ (16, 17, 17½ , 18½ )"
14 (14½ , 15, 15½ , 16)"
sleeve
12½ (14 , 14¾, 15½ , 16¼)"
with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K35 (39, 43, 47, 51) and place these sts on holder for left shoulder, BO 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts, knit to end—35 (39, 43, 47, 51) sts rem for right shoulder. Right shoulder: Purl 1 WS row. At beg of RS rows, BO 3 sts once, then BO 2 sts 3 times—26 (30, 34, 38, 42) sts rem. Work 6 rows even, ending with a RS row. Shape shoulder: At beg of WS rows, BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts 2 t imes, then BO 8 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts once—no sts rem. Left shoulder: Retur n 35 (39, 4 3, 47, 51) left shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. At beg of WS rows, BO 3 sts once, then BO 2 sts 3 times—26 (30, 34, 38, 42) sts rem each shoulder. Work 6 rows even, ending with a WS row. Shape shoulder: At beg of RS rows, BO 9 (10, 11, 13, 14) sts 2 times, then BO 8 (10, 12, 12, 14) sts once—no sts rem.
Block the front so that both triangle flaps on each pocket lay flat (Figure 1 on p. 18). With RS facing and cir needle, pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts evenly a long CO edge of 2nd tr iangle, then 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts (about 3 sts for every 4 rows) along side edge of first triangle—32 (34, 36, 38, 40) sts. Do not join. Beg with a purl row, work 16 rows in St st, ending with a RS row. Divide sts in half and with RS tog, join sts using t hree-need le BO. Sew rem opening of pocket closed.
With RS facing and cir needle, pick up and knit 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts evenly along side edge of first triangle, then 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) sts along CO edge of 2nd triangle—32 (34, 36, 38, 40) sts. Complete as for left pocket.
With larger straight needles, CO 50 (56, 59, 62, 65) sts. Work in St st for 4", ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) K2, M1R, knit to last 2 sts, M1L, k2—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 12th row 3 more times—58 (64, 67, 70, 73) sts. Work even until piece measures 11 (11½, 12, 12½, 13)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Rib: Next row (RS) *K2, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Next row (WS) P1, *k2, p1; rep from * to end. Rep last 2 rows until rib measures 3", ending with a WS row. BO all sts in patt.
Finishing
Block pieces to measurements. Sew shoulder seams. Place removable m on each side seam 7¼ (8, 8½, 8¾, 9¼)" below each shoulder seam. Sew top of sleeves between m. Sew side seams, beg just above bottom ribbing to create side slits. Sew sleeve seams. Neckband: With RS facing and cir needle,
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beg at left shoulder seam, pick up and knit 18 (18, 17, 19, 18) sts evenly along left front neck edge, 11 (12, 13, 14, 15) sts along front BO sts, 18 (18, 17, 19, 18) sts along right front neck edge, and 28 (30, 31, 32, 33) sts along back neck—75 (78, 78, 84, 84) sts. Place marker and join in the rnd. Next rnd *K2, p1; rep from * to end. Next rnd *K1, p2; rep from * to end. Rep last 2 rnds until neck band measu res 1½". BO all sts loosely in patt. Weave in ends.
Notes
The body and sleeves of this pullover are worked from the bottom up. The lower
With longer cir needle, CO 133 (149, 165, 181, 197) sts. Do not join.
ribbing is worked back and fort h in rows, then the piece is joined and the body is
Row 1 (WS) P2,*k1, p1; rep from * to last st,
worked in the round to the underarms.
The sleeves are worked separately in the round, then the sleeves and body are joined to work the yoke. Only the front has the patterned panel. When working the three consecutive slipped stitches, make sure to carry the
yarn f loat on the right side of the work at a loose enough tension to avoid puckering the fabric.
1¾ (1¾, 2¼, 1¾, 2¼)"
p1. Row 2 (RS) K2 , M1R, *p1, k1; rep from * to l ast 3 sts, p1, M1L, k2 —2 sts i nc’d. Row 3 P3, *k1, p1; rep from * to la st 2 sts, p2. Row 4 K2, M1RP, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k 1, M1LP, k2—2 s ts inc’d. Rep Rows 1–4 four more times, then work Row 1 once more —153 (169, 185, 201, 217) sts. Joining row (RS) K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 8 sts, sl rem 8 sts onto dpn and hold in back of first 8 sts on left needle,
24 ( 25, 27 ¾, 27 ¾, 30¾ )" 17 ( 1 7 , 17 ½ , 1 7 ½ , 18 ) "
6¾ (7½ , 7¾, 8½ , 9)"
12½ (14, 15 ½, 16½ , 18)"
23 ½ (2 3½ , 23½ , 25 ½, 25½ )"
" ) 3 1 , 2 1 , 1 1 , 0 1 ( 9
body
Tunic
Sachiko Burgin
4¼ (4¼ , 4¼, 4½ , 4½)"
35 (39, 42¾ , 46¾ , 50 ¾)"
p a g e 1 3
Plymouth Yarn Homestead
Sizes 35 (39, 42¾, 46 ¾, 50 ¾)" bu st circumference; shown in size 35", modeled with 3" of positive ease Yarn Plymouth Yarn Homestead (100% wool; 191 yd [175 m]/10 0 g): • #2 taupe heather, 6 (6, 7, 8, 9) skeins Gauge 16 sts and 22 rnds = 4" in St st; 18½ sts and 28 rnds = 4" in Trellis patt
Tools • Size 8 (5 mm): 16" and 32" circular (cir) needles and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know.
Winter 15 Knitscene
43
r e n g i s e D
knit
Trellis
D e s i g n e r
purl 11
sl 1 pwise wyf 9
insert point of right
7
needle from front to 5
back under 2 sl st �oats below, then knit next st
3
on left needle, lifting 2 strands over st and
1
off needle 6 st repeat
pattern repeat
[k2tog (1 st from left needle and 1 st from dpn)] 8 times, k32 (36, 40, 44, 48), place marker (pm) for beg-of-rnd—145 (161, 177, 193, 209) sts rem: 73 (81, 89, 97, 105) sts for front and 72 (80, 88, 96, 104) sts for back. Next rnd K20 (24, 25, 29, 30), work Trellis chart over 33 (33, 39, 39, 45) sts, k20 (24, 25, 29, 30), pm for right side, knit to end. Cont in patt as established until Rnds 1–12 of chart have been worked a total of 9 (9, 9, 10, 10) times. Set aside. Do not break yarn.
With dpn, CO 36 (40, 44, 48, 52) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib until piece measures 3" from CO. Beg working in St st. Knit 5 rnds. Inc rnd K2, M1L, knit to last 2 sts, M1R, k2—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 6th rnd 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) more times—50 (56, 62, 66, 72) sts. Work even unti l sleeve meas ures 17 (17, 17½, 17½, 18)" from CO, ending 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts before end of rnd on last rnd. Place 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) sts on holder for underarm, removing m—42 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts rem. Place sts on separate holder.
Joining rnd With yarn a nd cir needle from body, k4 (4, 5, 5, 6) body sts and place last 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) sts worked on holder for left underarm, removing rnd m, work in patt as established to 4 (4, 5, 5, 6) sts before side m, place next 8 (8, 10, 10, 12) sts on holder for right underarm, removing m, pm, k42 (48, 52, 56, 60) sleeve sts, pm, k64 (72, 78, 86, 92) back sts, pm, k42 (48, 52, 56, 60) sleeve sts, pm for beg-of-rnd—213 (241, 261, 285, 305) sts. Work in patt as esta blished for 7 (5, 5, 3, 3) rnds. Dec rnd *Ssk, work to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, k1, ssk, work to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m; rep from * once more—8 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd ever y other r nd 13 (16, 17, 20, 21) more times, changing to shorter cir needle when necessary—101 (105, 117, 117, 129) sts rem. Work 1 rnd even. BO all sts.
Finishing
Collar: With RS facing and shorter cir
needle, pick up and kn it 98 (102, 114, 114, 126) sts evenly around neck edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib until colla r mea sures 6½" from pick-up row. BO all sts in patt. Fold collar to inside and sew BO sts to picked-up sts. Graft underarm sts using Kitchener st. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
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9 (10¼ , 11, 12 ¼, 13 )"
l d f o
collar
f o l d
r e n g i s e D
7 (7½ , 8, 8½ , 9)"
body 19"
36 ¾ (41, 4 4¾ , 49 , 52 ¾)"
Jacket Sachiko Burgin
p a g e 1 5
Quince & Co. Puffi n
Sizes 36¾ (41, 44¾, 49, 52¾)" bust circumferenc e; shown in size 36¾", modeled with 1¾" of positive e ase Yarn Quince & Co. Puffin (100% American wool; 112 yd [102 m]/ 100 g): • Iceland, 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) skeins Gauge 11 sts and 17 rows = 4" in Moss st on larger needle
Tools • Size 10½ (6.5 mm): 32– 40" circular (cir) needle, depending on size you are making, and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 13 (9 mm): 32–40" cir needle, depending on size you are making • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • 3 toggle buttons and closures See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
The body of this vest is worked back and
forth in one piece from the lower edge to the underarm, then the upper fronts and back are worked separately. Slip stitches knitwise with yarn in back on right-side rows and purlwise with yarn i n
front on wrong-side rows.
Winter 15 Knitscene
45
A circular needle is used to accommodate
the large number of stitches.
D e s i g n e r
Stitches
Moss Stitch: (odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS) K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS) P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Row 3 Rep Row 2. Row 4 Rep Row 1. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.
With larger needle, CO 13 sts. Do not join. Work in St st until piece measures 5", ending with a WS row. Place sts on holder.
With smaller cir needle, CO 101 (113, 123, 135, 145) sts. Do not join. Next row (WS) Sl 1 (see Not es), p1, k1, p1 (4-st front edg ing), place marker (pm), k1, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 4 sts, pm, p1, k1, p2 (4-st front edging). Next row (RS) Sl 1, k1, p1, k1, sl m, kn it to m, sl m, k1, p1, k2. Cont in patt as established until piece measures 3" from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to larger cir needle. Next row (RS) Work 4-st front edging, sl m, work in Moss st (see Stitches)
to m, sl m, work 4-st f ront edging. Keeping 4 sts each side in edging patt as established, and sts between m in Mo ss st, work until piece measu res 8" from CO, ending with a WS row. Pocket opening: Next row (RS) Work in patt to 5 (6, 7, 9, 10) sts past m, BO 13 sts, work in patt to 18 (19, 20, 22, 23)sts before next m, BO 13 sts, work in patt t o end. Joining row (WS) *Work in patt to BO sts, then with WS of pocket lining facing, work Moss st as established over 13 pocket lining st s; rep from * once more, work in patt to end. Work even until piece measures 19" from CO, ending with a WS row. Divide for fronts and back: Next row (RS) Work 75 (85, 93, 101, 109) sts in patt, place rem 26 (28, 30, 34, 36) sts on holder for left front. Next row (WS) Work 49 (57, 63, 67, 73) sts in patt, place rem 26 (28, 30, 34, 36) sts on holder for right front—49 (57, 63, 67, 73) sts rem for back.
Back
Work even until a rmhole meas ures 7 (7½ , 8, 8½, 9)", ending with a RS row. Collar: Work in ga rter st for 9 (10¼, 11, 12¼ , 13)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.
Return 26 (28, 30, 34, 36) held left front sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin yarn. Work even until armhole mea sures 7 (7 ½, 8, 8½, 9)", endi ng with a WS row. BO all sts.
Return 26 (28, 30, 34, 36) held right front sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Work even until armhole mea sures 7 (7 ½, 8, 8½, 9)", endi ng with a WS row. BO all sts.
Finishing
With WS facing, fold corners of collar along fold lines as indicated on schematic so that side edges of collar meet BO edges of f ronts. Sew these edges tog. Armhole edging: With dpn and RS facing, pick up and knit 48 (52, 56, 60, 64) sts around armhole edge. Pm and join in the r nd. Next rnd *K1, p1; rep from * to end. Next rnd Knit. Rep last 2 rnds once more. BO all sts in patt. Sew pocket lining to WS of each front. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew on buttons, beg 2½" down from colla r and spac ed 4" apart.
Wrap
Sachiko Burgin
p a g e 1 6
Rowan Felted Tweed Aran
Size 18½" wide, 32" front length, and 26 ¾" back length Yarn Rowan Felted Tweed Aran (50% wool, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose; 95 yd
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Shop your LYS or Ravelry Devlin Inca Alpaca from Emerald Isle 1508.
Vintage Necklace Kit
Perfect for beginning knitters, this necklace can be created in several hours. Garter stitch only!
Various colors available. Pattern can also be expanded to create a unique scarf. $25 plus $5 shipping. 716.487.2070 www.lynharrisdesigns.com Winter15 Knitscene
47
D e s i g n e r
[87 m]/50 g): • #740 garden, 10 balls Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers Gauge 14 sts and 19 rows = 4" in St st
Tools • Size 10 (6 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle • Removable marker (m) • Stitch holder • Tapestry needle
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
place 65 sts from first half onto left needle, with RS facing, then k2tog, p2sso, place a removable marker (pm) in single rem st, k nit to end—127 sts. Next row (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2. Dec row (RS) Knit to 1 st before marked st, sk2p, remove m and replace it in single st, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2
rows 60 more times—5 st s rem. Next row (WS) K2, p1, k2. Next row (RS) K1, sk2p, k1—3 sts rem. Next row (WS) K3. Next row (RS) Sk2p—1 st rem. Fasten off last st.
Finishing
Weave in ends and block.
k on RS; p on WS
k2tog
sk2p (see Stitches)
k on WS
ssk
pattern repeat
yo
This shawl is worked back and forth in two
Chart B
separate pieces, which are then joined and worked as one piece. A circular needle
10
is used to accommodate the large number 8
of stitches.
6
Stitches 4
Sk2p: Sl 1 kwise, k2tog, psso—2 sts dec’d.
2 1 (WS) 12 st repeat
CO 65 sts. Do not join. Work Rows 1–14 of Chart A 5 times. Work Rows 1–10 of Chart B once. Next row (WS) K2, purl to last 2 sts, k2. Next row (RS) Knit. Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 32" from CO, ending with a WS row. Break yarn and place sts on holder.
Chart A 14 12 10 8
6
Work as for first half, but do not break yarn. Joining row (RS) Knit to last 2 st s, sl last 2 sts kw ise, one at a time, to r ight needle,
4 2 1 (WS) 12 st repeat
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Six-Point Tee
K C O C N A H E O J : S T I D E R C O T O H P
needles, CO 92 (100, 108, 116, 124) sts. Next row (WS) P1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 3 sts, k2, p1. Next row (RS) K1, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 sts, p2, k1. Rep last 2 rows until piece measu res 1½" from CO, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) K1, work 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) sts in rib patt, place marker (pm), p2, k2, M1, p1, pm, *p1, M1, [k2, p2] 3 ti mes, k2 , M1, p1, pm, p1, M1, k2 , M1, p1, pm; rep from * o nce more, p1, M1, [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, M1, p1, pm, p1, M1, k2, p2 , pm, work 12 (16, 20, 24, 28) sts in rib patt, k1—104 (112, 120, 128, 136) sts. Change to larger needles. Set-up row (WS) P1, knit to m, sl m, *k1, p4, k1, sl m, k1, p16, k1, sl m; rep from * 2 more times, k1, p4, k1, sl m, knit to last st, p1. Next row (RS) K1, purl to
Meghan Babin
page 24
I m p e r i a l S t o c k R a n c h E r i n
Sizes 37 (40½, 44, 47½ , 51½)" chest circumference; shown in size 44", modeled with 6" of positive ease Yarn Imperial Stock Ranch Erin (100% wool; 225 yd [206 m]/113 g): • quail, 6 (6 , 7, 8, 9) skeins Gauge 17 sts and 24 rows = 4" in rev St st on larger needles
Tools • Size 6 (4 mm) needles • Size 8 (5 mm) needles • Markers (m) • Removable m • Cable needle (cn) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • One 1" button
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This pullover is worked back and forth in pieces from the bottom up. After blocki ng,
each side of the shawl collar i s picked up and worked to the center back neck, then the collar pieces are graf ted together at the center back neck.
Back Using the long-tail method and smaller
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m, sl m, work Left Rope chart to m, sl m, work Staghorn Cable chart to m, sl m, work Left Rope chart to m, sl m, work Center Cable chart to m, sl m, work Right Rope chart to m, sl m, work Staghorn Cable chart to m, sl m, work Right Rope chart to m, sl m, purl to last st, k1. Cont in patt as established, working side panels in rev St st and selvedge sts in St st, until piece meas ures 14 (14¼, 15, 15¼, 16)" f rom CO, ending with a WS row. Shape armholes: BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows—96 (104, 112, 120, 128) sts rem. Work even until armhole me asure s 9 (9½, 9½ , 10, 10½)", ending with a WS row. Shape shoulders and neck using short-rows as foll: Next short-row (RS) Work 26 (30, 32, 36, 40) sts
k on RS; p on WS
Center Cable
Right Rope
p on RS; k on WS
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn
3
47
1
45
6 sts
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, k2 from cn
43 41
Left Rope
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, p2 from cn
39 3
37
1
35
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, p2, k2 from cn
6 sts
Staghorn Cable
33 31
Sleeve
29
3 3
27
1 1 18 sts
25
4 sts 23 21 19
K
= Knitwise
P
= Purlwise
FN
BN
= Back Needle
17
= p attern repeat
15 13
= Front Needle
11
Grafting P
K
9
P
K
K
P
P
K
P
K
7
BN
5
K
P
K
P
P
K
K
P
K
P
FN
3 1
18 x
2x 18 sts
7¾ (7¾, 8½ , 8½ , 8½ )" 4½ ( 5¼ , 6, 6 ¾, 7 ¾)"
17½ (18, 18, 19¼ , 20) "
1¼"
4¼ (4¼ , 4¾, 4 ¾, 4¾)"
9 (9½ , 9½ , 10 , 10 ½ )"
3"
sleeve
front & back
18 (18¼ , 18½ , 19, 19½ )"
14 (14¼ , 15 , 15¼ , 16 )"
9½ (9½ , 9½ , 11¼, 11¼)"
18½ ( 20¼, 22 , 23 ¾, 25 ¾)"
Winter15 Knitscene
51
in patt and place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO 44 (44, 48, 48, 48) sts, work in patt to last 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, wrap next st, turn—26 (30, 32, 36, 40) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: Short-row 1 (WS) Work to end. Short-row 2 Ssk, work to 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn— 1 st dec’d. Rep Short-rows 1 and 2 once more, then work Short-row 1 once—24 (28, 30, 34, 38) sts rem. Next row (RS) Work to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder. Right shoulder: Return 26 (30, 32, 36, 40) held right shoulder sts to needle, ready to work a WS row, and rejoin yarn. Short-row 1 (WS) Work to la st 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 Work to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Short-row 3 Work to 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Rep Short-rows 2 and 3 once more—24 (28, 30, 34, 38) sts rem. Short-row 4 Work to end. Next row (WS) Work to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.
Work as for back until armhole measures 3
(3½, 3, 3 ½, 4)", endi ng with a WS row. Divide for placket: Next row (RS) Work 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts in patt and place these sts on holder for left front, BO 16 sts in patt, work in patt to end—40 (44, 48, 52, 56) sts rem for right front. Right front: Work even unti l ar mhole measu res 6 (6½ , 6, 6½, 7)", ending wit h a WS row. Shape neck: At beg of RS rows, BO 4 sts once, then BO 2 sts 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times—32 (36, 38, 42, 46) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. Dec row (RS) Ssk, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 5 more times—26 (30, 32, 36, 40) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. Shape shoulder and neck using short rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) Ssk, work to last 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, wrap next st, tur n—25 (29, 31, 35, 39) sts rem. Short-rows 2 and 4 Work to end. Short-row 3 Ssk, work to 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn—24 (28, 30, 34, 38) sts rem. Short-row 5 Work in patt to 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 6 Work to end. Next row (RS) Work to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder. Left front: Return 40 (44, 48, 52, 5 6) held left front sts to needle, ready to work a WS row, and rejoin yarn. Work even until
armhole measures 6 (6½, 6, 6½ , 7)", ending with a RS row. Shape neck: At beg of WS rows, BO 4 sts once, then BO 2 sts 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) times—32 (36, 38, 42, 46) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Work to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 5 more times—26 (30, 32, 36, 40) sts rem. Shape shoulder and neck using short rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) Work to la st 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 Work to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Short-row 3 Work to 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) sts before wrapped st, wrap next st, turn. Short-rows 4 and 5 Rep Short-rows 2 and 3—24 (28, 30, 34, 38) sts rem. Short-row 6 Work to end. Next row (WS) Work to end, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Place sts on holder.
With smaller needles and using the long-tail method, CO 40 (40, 40, 44, 44) sts. Next row (WS) P1 (1, 1, 3, 3), [k2, p2] 9 times, k 2, p1 (1, 1, 3, 3). Next row (RS) K1 (1, 1, 3, 3), [p2, k2] 9 times, p2 , k1 (1, 1, 3, 3). Rep last 2 rows unti l piece meas ures 1½" from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to larger needles. Sizes 37 (40½, 44)" only: Inc row (RS) K1, [p6, M1, k2, M1] 4 times, p6, k1—48 sts. Sizes 47½ (51½)" only: Inc row (RS) K1, M1, k2, M1, [p6, M1, k2, M1] 4 times, p6, M1, k2, M1, k1—56 sts. All sizes: Set-up row (WS) P1 (1, 1, 5, 5), k6, *p4 , k6; rep from * t o last 1 (1, 1, 5, 5) st(s), p1 (1, 1, 5, 5). Next row (RS) K1, [work Sleeve chart over 4 sts] 0 (0, 0, 1, 1) time, p6, *work Sleeve chart over 4 sts, p6; rep from * to last 1 (1, 1, 5, 5) st(s), [work Sleeve chart over 4 sts] 0 (0, 0, 1, 1) time, k1. Cont in patt as established until piece measures 3" from CO, ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) K1, M1 (or M1P to keep in patt), work in patt to last st, M1 (or M1P to keep in patt), k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 4th row 19 (20, 20, 19, 21) more times, working new sts into patt—88 (90, 90, 96, 100) sts. Work even until piece measure s 18 (18¼, 18½, 19, 19½ )" from CO, ending w ith a WS row. BO all sts in patt.
Finishing
Block pieces to measurements. Join shoulders using three-needle BO. Sew in sleeves as foll: Sew BO edge of sleeve to vertical edge of armhole, matching center of sleeve to shoulder seam, then sew about ¾" of each side of sleeve to BO st s at each underarm. Sew side and sleeve seams. Right collar: Place removable m at beg of
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right neck BO and at right shoulder seam. With smaller needles and RS facing, pick up and knit 15 sts along center front BO sts, pm, pick up and knit 1 st from side edge of placket—16 sts. Work collar and join to neck edge simult aneously a s foll: Row 1 (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, [p1, k1] 6 times, p3. Row 2 (RS) Sl 3 pwise wyb, [p1, k1] 5 times, p1, ssk, pick up and knit 1 st from side edge of placket 1 or 2 rows above where previous st was picked up—16 sts. Row 3 Rep Row 1. Rows 4–11 Rep Rows 2 and 3 four times. Row 12 (Buttonhole row) Sl 3 pwise wyb, p1, k1, p1, work 5-st one-row buttonhole, work in rib to last 2 sts, ssk, pick up and knit 1 st from side edge of placket 1 or 2 rows above where previous st was picked up. Rows 13–22 Rep Rows 1 and 2 five more times, or until you reach removable m at neck BO. Row 23 Rep Row 1.
Shape collar:
Row 24 (RS) Sl 3 pwise wyb, work in rib to end, pick up and knit 1 st from neck edge, 1 st further or 1 or 2 rows above where
previous st was picked up—1 st inc’d. Row 25 Sl 1 pwise wyf, work in rib to last 3 st s (working new st into patt), p3. Rows 26–71 Rep Rows 24 a nd 25 twenty-three more times, endi ng at m at right shoulder seam—40 sts. Join to back neck: Place removable m at center back neck. Next row (RS) Sl 3 pwise wyb, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p1, ssk, pick up and knit 1 st from back neck edge, 1 or 2 rows along or 1 st further from where previous st was picked up. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, *p1, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3. Rep last 2 rows 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) more times, or until you reach removable m at center back neck. Break yarn, leaving a 24" tail for graft ing, and place sts on holder. Left collar: Place removable m at beg of left neck BO and at left shoulder seam. With smaller needles and WS facing, pick up and purl 15 sts along center front BO sts, pick up and purl 1 st from side edge of placket—16 sts. Work collar and join to neck edge simultaneously as foll: Row 1 (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyb, [k1, p1] 6 times, k3. Row 2 (WS) Sl 3 pwise wyf, [k1, p1] 5 times, k1, p2tog, pick up and purl 1 st from side edge of placket 1 or 2 rows above where previous st was picked up—16 sts. Rows 3–22 Rep Rows 1 and 2 ten times, or until you reach removable m at neck BO. Row 23 Rep Row 1. Shape collar:
Row 24 (WS) Sl 3 pwise wyf, work in rib to
1 st further or 1 or 2 rows above where
previous st was picked up—1 st inc’d. Row 25 Sl 1 pwise wyb, work in rib to last 3 sts (working new st into patt), k3. Rows 26–71 Rep Rows 24 a nd 25 twenty-three times, ending at m at left shoulder seam—40 sts. Join to back neck: Next row (WS) Sl 3 pwise wyf, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, p2tog, pick up and purl 1 st from back neck edge, 1 or 2 rows along or 1 st fu rther from where previous st was picked up. Next row (RS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, *k1, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3. Rep last 2 rows 15 (15, 16, 16, 16) more times, or u ntil you reach right collar at center back neck. Break yarn. Return 40 held right collar st s to other needle and, holding needles parallel with left collar sts in back, WS tog, and with grafting tail t hreaded onto a tapestry needle, graft sts in patt, using either grafting chart (p. 51) or written instructions. Grafting instructions: Set-up Steps
Step 1 FN: Pwise, leave. Step 2 BN: Kwise, leave.
Repeated Sequence A
Step 3 FN: Kwise, remove; pwise, leave. Step 4 BN: Pwise, remove; kwise, leave. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 once more. Repeated Sequence B
Step 5 FN: Kwise, remove; kwise, leave. Step 6 BN: Pwise, remove; pwise, leave. Step 7 FN: Pwise, remove; pwise, leave. Step 8 BN: Kwise, remove; kwise, leave. Rep Steps 5–8 until 2 sts rem on each needle. Ending Steps
Step 9 FN: Kwise, remove; pwise, leave. Step 10 BN: Pwise, remove; kwise, leave. Step 11 FN: Kwise, remove. Step 12 BN: Pwise, remove. Weave in ends. Sew button to left collar, opposite buttonhole. Block collar as desired.
Meghan Babin is the new editor of Interweave Knits .
She recently relocated from the NYC area to beautiful Fort Collins, Colorado, where she plans to hike the Rockies, knit, and drink craft beer.
end, pick up and purl 1 st f rom neck edge,
Winter 15 Knitscene 53
The back ex tends ab out 2½" below the front at the underarm. This raises the back neck
and shifts the raglan l ines forward. Stitches
Linen Stitch: (odd number of sts) Rnd 1 With CC, *k1, sl 1 pwise wyf; rep from * to last st, k1. Rnd 2 With CC, *sl 1 pwise wyf, k1; rep from * to last st, sl 1 pwise wy f. Rnd 3 With MC, *k1, sl 1 pwise wyf; rep from * to last st, k1. Rnd 4 With MC, *sl 1 pwise wyf, k1; rep from * to last st, sl 1 pwise wy f. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.
Collar: With MC and smaller 16" cir needle, CO 145 (157, 169, 181, 193) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd. Change to larger needle. Work Rnds 1–4 of Linen st (see Stitches) 21 times. Break CC. Change to MC and smaller needle. Next rnd Knit, inc 0 (12, 12, 12, 12) sts e venly spac ed—145 (169, 181, 193, 205) sts. Set-up rnd K25 (31, 34, 37, 40) Moon Eldridge for back, pm, k1, pm, k21 for sleeve, pm, k1, page 25 pm, k49 (61, 67, 73, 79) for front, pm, k 1, pm, k21 for sleeve, pm, k1, pm, k25 (31, 34, 37, 40) for back. Yoke: Inc rnd *Knit to m, sl m, Valley Yarns Colrain M1R, knit to m, M1L, sl m; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end—8 sts inc’d. Sizes 42½ (47½ , 52¼, 57, 61¾)" bust Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 5 more times—13 sts between m. Shift rnd *Knit to circumference; shown in size 42½", m, remove m, k6, pm, k1, pm, knit to m, modeled with 11" of positive ease Yarn Valley Yarns Colrain (50% merino remove m; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end—1 st between m. Rep last 12 rnds (beg wool, 50% tencel; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g): with Inc rnd) 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) more times—337 • ocean blue (MC), 11 (13, 16, 18, 22) balls (361, 373, 433, 445) sts: 97 (109, 115, 133, • natural (CC), 2 (2, 3, 3, 3) balls 139) sts for front, 49 (55, 58, 67, 70) sts for Yarn distributed by WEBS Gauge 20 sts and 24 rnds = 4" in St st on smaller needle; 26 sts and 45 rnds = 4" in Linen st on larger needle
Tunic
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This pul lover is worked in the round from the top down with raglan shaping. The sleeves are worked in the round from the top
down. Rather than being worked in a straight line, the raglan, body, and sleeve increases a re
worked in fan shapes.
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Next rnd Sl 1 kwise w yb, k48 (54, 60, 66, 72), sl m (be g-of-rnd m), k49 (55, 6 1, 67, 73), using the backward-loop method, CO 4 sts, pm, CO 1 st, pm, CO 4 sts, k97 (109, 121, 133, 145) front sts, CO 4 sts, pm, CO 1 st, pm, CO 4 sts, knit to end—213 (237, 261, 285, 309) sts. Knit 5 rnds. Inc rnd *Knit to m, sl m, M1R, knit to m, M1L, sl m; rep from * once more, knit to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 4th rnd 3 more times—9 sts between m. Shift rnd *Knit to m, remove m, k4, pm, k1, pm, knit to m, remove m; rep from * once more, knit to end—1 st
22¼ (24¼, 26 , 27 ¾, 29 ¾)"
Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" and 24" circular (cir) needles • Size 8 (5 mm): 16" and 24" cir needles • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle
each half of back, 69 (69, 69, 81, 81) sts for each sleeve, 4 raglan sts. Sizes 52¼ (61¾)" only : Rep Inc rnd on next rnd, then every other rnd 2 more times—397 (469) sts: 121 (145) sts for front, 61 (73) sts for each half of back, 75 (87) sts for each sleeve, 4 raglan sts. Shift rnd *Knit to m, remove m, k3, pm, k1, pm, knit to m, remove m; rep from * 3 more times, knit to end—1 st between m. All sizes: Divide for body and sleeves: Next row Knit to m, remove m, place next 71 (71, 77, 83, 89) sts on holder for right sleeve, remove m, turn. Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p48 (54, 60, 66, 72), sl m, p49 (55, 61, 67, 73), remove m, place next 71 (71, 77, 83, 89) sts on holder for left sleeve, remove m, turn—98 (110, 122, 134, 146) sts for back, 97 (109, 121, 133, 145) sts for front. Back extension: Next row (RS) Sl 1 kwise wyb, k48 (54, 60, 66, 72), sl m, k49 (55, 61, 67, 73). Next row (WS) Sl 1 pwise wyf, p48 (54, 60, 66, 72), sl m, p49 (55, 61, 67, 73). Rep last 2 rows 5 more times.
8¼ ( 10, 10, 10 ¾, 12 ¾)"
7½" " ) ½ 2 1 , ½ 1 1 , ½ 0 1 , ½ 9 ( ½ 9
19½ (20¼, 21½, 23½ , 25½ )" " ) ½ 9 1 , ¾ 7 1 , ¾ 6 1 , 5 1 (
18½ (18 ½, 19 ¾, 21, 22¼)"
body
42½ (47½ , 52 ¼, 57, 61¾)"
¼ 4 1
55½ (61¾, 68¼ , 74½ , 81)"
between m. Work 2 rnds even. Rep last 16 rnds (beg with Inc rnd) 3 (3, 4, 4, 5) more times—277 (301, 341, 365, 4 05) sts. Sizes 47½ (57)" only: Rep Inc rnd on next rnd, then every 4th rnd once more—309 (373) sts. All sizes: Next rnd Knit, inc 22 (24, 28, 32, 36) sts evenly spaced and removing m—299 (333, 369, 405, 4 41) sts. Change to larger needle. Work Rnds 1–4 of Linen st 6 times. With MC, knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd. BO all sts kwise.
With MC, smaller 16" cir needle, and RS facing, pick up and knit 9 sts along underarm CO sts, pm, 13 sts along back selvedge edge, k71 (71, 77, 83, 89) sleeve sts—93 (93, 99, 105, 111) sts total. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 2 rnds. Dec rnd Ssk, knit to 2 sts before m, k2to g, sl m, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd
every other rnd 2 more times— 87 (87, 93, 99, 105) sts rem. Next rnd Knit. Dec rnd K3tog, sl m, knit to end—85 (85, 91, 97, 103) sts rem. Knit 3 rnds. Inc rnd M1R, knit to m, M1L, sl m, knit to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 4th r nd 3 more times—9 sts between m. Shift rnd Remove beg-of-rnd m, k4, pm for new beg of rnd, k1, pm, knit to m, remove m, knit to end—1 st between m. Work 2 rnds even. Rep last 16 rnds (beg with Inc rnd) 0 (1, 1, 1, 2) more t ime(s)—93 (101, 107, 113, 127) sts. Sizes 42½ (57)" only: Rep Inc rnd on next r nd, then every 4th rnd once more—97 (117) sts. All sizes: Next rnd Knit, inc 10 (12, 14, 16, 18) sts evenly spaced and removing m—107 (113, 121, 133, 145) sts. Change to larger needle. Work Rnds 1–4 of Linen st 6 t imes. With MC, knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd. BO all sts kwise.
With MC, smaller 16" cir needle, and RS facing, pick up and knit 13 sts along back selvedge edge, pm for beg of rnd, 9 sts along underarm CO sts, pm, k71 (71, 77, 83, 89) sleeve sts, k13 picked-up sts—93 (93, 99, 105, 111) sts total. Work as for right sleeve.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Block. Originally from Inner Mongolia, China, Moon Eldridge came to the U.S. five years ago. She obtained her Master’s Degree in Music Composition from the Central Conservatory of Music in Beijing. She applies her creative side to her knitting and crochet design, which is now her passion. See more at her blog, www.mooneldridge .blogspot.com.
Winter 15 Knitscene
55
7 ( 7¼ , 7½, 7 ¾, 8 ½, 9¼)"
3 ( 3¼ , 3¼, 3½, 3½, 3 ½)"
12¼ (13 , 13¼, 13 ¾, 14 ¾, 15¼)"
¼" " ) ¼ 0 1 , ¾ 9 , ¼ 9 , ¼ 9 , ¾ 8 ( ¼ 8
2 0 "
" ) ¼ 9 1 , ¼ 9 1 , ¾ 8 1 , ¼ 8 1 , 9 1 ( ¼ 8 1
Cardigan Jenn Emerson
page 26
M i s s B a b s Y o w z a! W h a t t a S k e i n !
Sizes 36½ (39½, 42½ , 45, 48 , 51)" bust circumference, buttoned; shown in size 36½", modeled with 5" of positive ease Yarn Miss Babs Yowza! Whatta Skein! (100% superwash merino wool; 560 yd [512 m]/227 g): • field mouse, 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5) skeins Gauge 21 sts and 31 rows = 4" in St st on larger needle
Tools • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle
and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" cir needle and set of dpn • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • Nine 1" buttons See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This cardigan is worked back and forth in one piece from the top down. The sleeves
are worked in the round from the top down. Short-rows are used throughout the pattern for shaping. The sample used German short-rows, though another method may be substituted.
56
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6 ¼ ( 6 ¾ ,
body
1 7 ¼ ( 1 8 ¾ , 2 0 7 ¼ ¼ , , 8 , 2 1 8 ¾ ½ , , 9 ½ 2 3 ) " ,
11 (12, 13, 13½ , 14¼ , 15)"
2 4 ½ ) "
14¼ (15½ , 17¼, 18 ¾, 20½ , 22) " 16½ (18¼ , 19½ , 21¼, 22¾, 24¼ )"
" ) ¾ 0 1 , 0 1 , 0 1 , ¼ 9 , ¼ 9 ( ¼ 9
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A circular needle is used to accommodate
the large number of stitches.
Next row Purl to end, working double st as
With larger cir needle, CO 16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19) sts. Do not join. Beg with a WS row, work 3 rows in St st. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) K10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13), turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Make double st (see Notes), purl to end. Next row Knit to end, working double st as single st. Work 1 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3) more row(s) in St st. Place sts on holder.
single st. Work 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) more rows in St st. Joining row (RS) K16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19) left back shoulder sts, using the cable method, CO 37 (38, 40, 41, 45, 49) sts, k16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19) held right back shoulder sts—69 (72, 74, 77, 81, 87) sts total. Work in St st u ntil ar mhole measu res 6¼ (6¼ , 6, 5½, 5¼ , 5½ )", ending wit h a WS row. Shape armholes: Inc row (RS) K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 7 (9, 12, 14, 16, 17) more times—85 (92, 100, 107, 115, 123) sts. Purl 1 WS row. Place sts on holder.
With larger cir needle, CO 16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19) sts. Do not join. Beg with a WS row, work 2 rows in St st. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) P10 (11, 11, 12, 12, 13), turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Make double st, knit to end.
With larger cir needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19) sts along CO edge of right back shoulder. Do not join. Purl 1 WS row. Shape neck: Inc row (RS) Knit to last st, M1R, k1—1 st inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 22 (22, 21, 19, 19, 20)
more times—39 (40, 39, 38, 38, 40) sts. Work 1 WS row. Shape armhole and neck: Inc row (RS) K1, M1L, knit to last st, M1R, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 7 (9, 12, 14, 16, 17) more times—55 (60, 65, 68, 72, 76) sts. Work 1 WS row. Place sts on holder.
With larger cir needle and RS facing, pick up and knit 16 (17, 17, 18, 18, 19) sts along CO edge of left back shoulder. Do not join. Beg wit h a WS row, work 3 (7, 11, 1, 3, 5) row(s) in St st. Shape neck and armhole: Note: Armhole shaping beg before neck shaping ends; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Neck inc row (RS) K1, M1L, kn it to end—1 st i nc’d. Rep Neck inc row every 10 (12, 12, 12, 8, 6)th row 5 (4, 4, 5, 7, 9) more times. At the same time, when armhole mea sure s 6¼ (6¼, 6, 5½, 5¼ , 5½ )", ending wit h a WS row, shape armhole as foll: Armhole inc row (RS) Work to last st, M1R, k1—1 st inc’d. Rep Armhole inc row ever y RS row 7 (9, 12, 14, 16, 17) more times—30 (32, 35, 39, 43, 47) sts when all neck and armhole shaping is complete. Work 1 W S row. Joining row (RS) K30 (32, 35, 39, 43, 47) left front sts, CO 3 sts, place marker (pm), CO 3 sts, k85 (92, 100, 107, 115, 123) held back sts, CO 3 sts, pm, CO 3 sts, k55 (60, 65, 68, 72, 76) held right front sts—182 (196, 212, 226, 242, 258) sts total.
Next row (WS) *Purl to 3 sts before m, k2, p1, sl m, p1, k2; rep from * once more, pu rl to end. Next row (RS) *Knit to 3 sts before m, p2, k1, sl m, k1, p2; rep from * once more, knit to end. Rep last 2 rows until piece me asure s 2½ (2 ½, 2½ , 2½, 3, 3)" f rom underarm, ending with a WS row. Shape waist: Dec row (RS) *Knit to 6 sts before m, ssk, work to m, sl m, work 4 sts, k2tog; rep from * once more, work to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 6th row 7 (7, 7, 6, 6, 6) more ti mes—150 (164, 180, 198, 214, 230) sts rem. Work even for 2", ending with a WS row. Inc row (RS) *Knit to 4 sts before m, M1R, work to m, sl m, work 4 sts, M1L; rep from * once more, knit to end—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 6 (6, 6, 8, 8, 8)th row 5 (6, 5, 5, 5, 5) more t imes—174 (192, 204, 222, 238, 254) sts. Work 1 WS row. Set-up row (RS) Work to m, sl m, inc 2 (2, 0, 3, 3, 3) sts evenly spaced before m, sl m, work to end—176 (194, 204, 225, 241, 257) sts. Change to smaller needle. Next row (WS) P2 (2, 2, 1, 1, 1), *k2, p2; rep from * to last 6 (4, 6, 4, 4, 4) sts, k2, p4 (2, 4, 2, 2, 2). Cont in rib until rib measures 4". Loosely BO all sts in patt.
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New Knotes | Crotes
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Winter15 Knitscene
59
With larger dpn and RS facing, beg at center of underarm, pick up and knit 32 (34, 35, 3 6, 39, 40) sts to shoulder, pm, 32 (34, 35, 36, 39, 40) sts to underarm—6 4 (68, 70, 72, 78, 80) sts total. Pm a nd join in the rnd. Shape sleeve cap using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) Knit to m, sl m, k11 (11, 12, 12, 13, 13), turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Make double st, purl to m, sl m, p11 (11, 12, 12 , 13, 13), turn. Short-row 3 Make double st, knit to double st,
work double st as single st, k1, turn. Short-row 4 Make double st, purl t o double st, work double st as single st, p1, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 17 (19, 19, 20, 22, 23) more times—3 unworked sts at each end of row. Next rnd Knit to end, working double st as single st. Working double st as single st on first rnd, work even until piece measures 1¾ (1¾, 2, 1¾, 1½, 1½)" from underarm. Dec rnd K1, k2tog, knit to last 3 sts, ssk, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 10 (8, 7, 8, 6, 7)th rnd 7 (9, 10, 9, 12, 11) more times—48 (48, 48, 52, 52, 56) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 14" from underarm. Change to smal ler dpn. Work in k2, p2 rib for 6". Loosely BO all sts in patt.
Finishing
Collar and button bands: With
smaller cir needle and RS facing, beg at right front lower edge, pick up and knit 154 (161, 160, 163, 169, 171) sts (about 3 sts for every 4 rows) along right front edge to shoulder, 38 (40, 42, 44, 48, 52) sts across back neck, and 154 (161, 160, 163, 169, 171) sts along left front to lower edge—346 (362, 362, 370, 386, 394) sts total. Do not join. Next row (WS) P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Cont in rib for 1", ending with a WS row. Buttonhole row (RS) *K2, p2, k2, p1, work 4-st one-row buttonhole, p1; rep from * 8 more times, work in rib to end. Work in rib until front bands measure 2" from pick-up row, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) Work to 2" below left shoulder seam on left front, pm, work to 2" below right shoulder seam on right front, pm, work to end. Shape collar using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) Work to 1 st before 2nd m, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Make double st, work to 1 st before m, turn. Short-row 3 Make double st, work to double st,
work double st as single st, work 1 st, turn. Short-row 4 Make double st, work to double st,
work double st as single st, work 1 st, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 21 more times. Next short-row (RS) Make double st, work to double st, work double st as single st, work 2 sts, turn. Next short-row (WS) Make double st, work to double st, work double st as single st, work 2 sts, turn. Rep last
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2 short-rows 3 more times. Next row (RS) Work to end, working double st as single st. Work 1 WS row, working double st as single st. Loosely BO all sts in patt. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew buttons to left front band opposite buttonholes.
See kn ittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
The body of this pullover is worked in the round to the underarm, then the front and back are worked separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round, with
Jenn Emerson is a knitwear designer living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Her designs focus on classic silhouettes with a modern twist. She can be found on Ravelry as JennEmerson.
the sleeve cap worked flat. When working the body and sleeves, the shaping and patterning are worked simul-
taneously. When a decrease or increase round falls on a pattern round, work purl decreases or increases if necessary to keep in patt.
Stitches
Garter Stripe Pattern:
[Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd] 3 times, knit 1 rnd.
With smaller cir needle, CO 196 (216, 232, 252, 276, 300, 324) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Next rnd P98 (108, 116, 126, 138, 150, 162), pm for side, purl t o end. [Knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd] 5 times. Change to larger cir needle. Work in St st until piece
Julia Farwell-Clay
page 27
Sincere Sheep Luminous
Sizes 32 (35¼, 3 8, 41¼, 4 5¼, 4 9¼, 5 3¼)" bust circumference; shown in size 38", modeled with 2" of positive ease. Yarn Sincere Sheep Luminous (85% polwarth wool, 15% tussah silk; 330 yd [301 m]/113 g): • St. Bart’s, 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7) skeins Gauge 24 sts and 32 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needles
Tools • Size 4 (3.5 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 32" cir needle and set of dpn • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle
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meas ures 1¾" from CO. Shape waist: Note: Waist shaping and patterning occur simultaneously; read the foll section a ll the way through before proceeding. Dec rnd *Work 2 sts, ssk (or ssp to keep in patt; see Notes), work in patt to 4 sts before m, k2tog (or p2tog to keep in patt), work 2 sts, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd ever y 7 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8)th rnd 6 more times—168 (188, 204, 224, 248, 272, 296) sts rem: 84 (94, 102, 112, 124, 136, 148) sts each for front and back. Work 14 rnds even. Inc rnd *Work 3 sts, M1L (or MILP t o keep in patt), work in patt to 3 sts before m, M1R (or MIRP to keep in patt), work 3 sts, sl m; rep from * once more— 4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 8th rnd 5 more times—192 (212, 228, 248, 272, 296, 320) sts: 96 (106, 114, 124, 136, 148, 160) sts each for front and back. At the same time, work patt as foll: after first Dec rnd, work 5 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) rnds in St st, then work 7 rnds of Gar ter Stripe patt (see Stitches)—188 (208, 224, 244, 268, 292, 316) sts: 94 (104, 112, 122, 134, 146, 158) sts each for front and back. Next rnd K35 (40, 44, 4 9, 55, 61, 67), pm, [p2, k2] 3 times, p2, knit to side
WK-YB-2019 in Rowan Felted Tweed
YARN BARN of Kansas
www.yarnbarn-ks.com 800-468-0035 resource guide Natural Fibers Spun in Vermont
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Winter15 Knitscene
63
m, sl m, k10, pm, [p2, k2] 5 times, p2, k37 (42, 46, 51, 57, 63, 69), pm, [p2, k2] 3 times, p2, knit to end. Cont in patt as e stablished for 14 more rnds, removing 3 extra m on last rnd (leave side and rnd m in place). Work 7 rnds of Garter Stripe patt. Work 34 (34, 36, 36, 38, 38, 38) rnds in St st. Work 7 rnds of Garter Stripe patt—180 (200, 216, 236, 260, 284, 308) sts: 90 (100, 108, 118, 130, 142, 154) sts each for front and back. Next rnd K21 (26, 30, 35, 41, 47, 53), pm, [p2, k2] 3 times, p2, knit to side m, sl m, k39 (44, 48, 53, 59, 65, 71), pm, [p2, k2] 7 times, p2, knit to end. Cont in patt as e stablished for 14 more rnds, removing 2 extra m on last rnd (leave side and rnd m in place). Work 7 rnds of Garter Stripe patt. Work in St st unti l piece meas ures 16 (16, 16½, 16½, 17, 17, 18)" from CO, ending 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts before end of rnd on last rnd. Divide for front and back: Next rnd *BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts, removi ng m,* work to 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts before side m, rep from * to * once, work to end. Place 86 (96, 102, 112, 122, 132, 142) sts just worked on holder for front, leaving yarn attached—86 (96, 102, 112, 122, 132, 142) sts rem for back. Beg working back and forth.
Size 35¼" only: Dec row (WS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d. Knit 1 row. Rep last 2 rows once more—88 sts rem. Dec row (WS) P2tog, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 5 sts, k 2, p1, ssp—8 6 sts rem. Next row (RS) K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Work 13 more rows in rib patt, ending with a WS row. Size 38" only: Dec row (WS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d. Knit 1 row. Rep last 2 rows once more—94 sts rem. Dec row (WS) P2tog, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, ssp—92 st s rem. Next row (RS) K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1. Dec row (WS) P2tog, work in rib patt to last 2 sts, ssp—90 sts rem. Work 12 more rows in rib patt, ending with a WS row. Size 41¼" on ly: Dec row (WS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—100 st s rem. Knit 1 row. Dec row (WS) P2tog, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 5 sts, k2, p1, ssp—98 sts rem. Next row (RS) K2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end. Dec row (WS) P2tog, work in rib patt to last 2 sts, ssp—2 sts dec’d. Next row (RS) Work in rib
Back
2¾ ( 2¾ , 3, 3¼ , 3¾, 4, 4) "
With WS facing, join new yarn to back sts. Shape armholes: Working in garter st (knit every row), BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts at beg of next 2 rows, BO 0 (0, 0, 2, 2, 2 , 3) sts at beg of foll 0 (0, 0, 2, 2, 2, 2) rows, BO 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2) sts at beg of foll 0 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 2) rows—82 (92, 98, 102, 112, 120, 124) sts rem. Size 32"only: Dec row (WS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—80 sts rem. Knit 3 rows. Next row (WS) K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1. Work 14 more rows in rib patt, ending with a WS row.
" ) ¾ 6 , ½ 6 , ½ 6 , ½ 6 , 6 , ¾ 5 ( ¼ 5
" ) ½ 8 1 , 8 1 , 8 1 , 7 1 , 7 1 , ½ 6 1 (
sleeve
" ) 8 1 , 7 1 , ¾ 5 1 , ¼ 4 1 , 3 1 , ¼ 2 1 ( 2 1
½ 6 1
7¾ (8 , 8¼ , 8¾, 9¼ , 9 ¾, 10 )"
7¼ (7¾, 8¼, 8 ¾, 9 ¾, 10 , 10 ¾)" 3 ( 3¼ , 3¼, 3½ , 3½ , 3 ¾, 4 )"
¾"
½"
2¼ (2½ , 2½ , 2½ , 2 ¾, 2 ¾, 2 ¾)"
7¼ (7½ , 8, 8¼, 8 ¾, 9¼, 9½ )"
32 (3 5¼ , 3 8, 41¼, 45¼ , 4 9¼ , 5 3¼ )"
body 16 (16 , 16½ , 16½ , 17, 17, 18)" 28 (31¼, 3 4, 37¼, 41¼ , 4 5¼ , 4 9¼ )"
32¾ (36 , 38¾ , 42, 46, 50, 5 4)"
64
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patt as established. Rep last 2 rows once more—94 sts rem. Work 9 more rows in rib patt, ending with a WS row. Sizes 45¼ (49¼)" only: Dec row (WS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—110 (118) sts rem. Knit 1 row. Dec row (WS) P2tog, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, ssp—108 (116) sts rem. Next row (RS) K1, p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to last st, k1. Dec row (WS) P2tog, work in rib patt to last 2 sts, ssp—2 sts dec’d. Next row (RS) Work in rib patt as established. Rep last 2 rows 3 (4) more times—100 (106) sts rem. Work 5 (3) more rows in rib patt, ending with a WS row. Size 53¼" only: Dec row (WS) P2tog, p1, *k2, p2; rep from * to last 5 sts, k2, p1, ssp—122 sts rem. Next row (RS) P2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end. Dec row (WS) P2tog, work in rib patt to last 2 sts, ssp—2 sts dec’d. Next row (RS) Work in rib patt as established. Rep last 2 rows 4 more times—112 sts rem. Work 3 more rows in rib patt, ending with a WS row. All sizes: Work 6 rows in garter st, ending with a WS row. Work in St st until armhole measures 7 (7¼, 7¾, 8, 8½ , 9, 9 ¼)", ending wit h a W S row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K19 (21, 21, 22, 22, 24, 25) and place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO 42 (44, 48, 50, 56, 58, 62) sts, knit to end—19 (21, 21, 22, 22, 24, 25) sts rem for left shoulder. Purl 1 WS row. Shape left shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) Ssk, k9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 10, 11), wrap next st, t urn—18 (20, 20, 21, 21, 23, 24) sts rem. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to end. Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wrap tog with wrapped st. Place sts on holder. Right shoulder: Return 19 (21, 21, 22, 22, 24, 25) right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Shape right shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) P2 tog, p9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 10, 11), wrap next st, turn—18 (20, 20, 21, 21, 23, 24) sts rem. Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to end. Next row (WS) Purl to end, working wrap tog with wrapped st. Place sts on holder.
Return 86 (96, 102, 112, 122, 132, 142) front sts to needle and resume with attached yarn. Work as for back until ar mhole measures 5½ (5½, 6, 6 ¼, 6½ , 7, 7¼)", ending with a WS row—80 (86, 90, 94, 100, 106, 112) sts rem. Shape neck: Next row (RS) K29 (31, 31, 32, 33, 35, 36) and place these sts on holder for left front, BO 22 (24, 28, 30, 34, 3 6, 40) sts, knit t o end—29 (31, 31, 32, 33, 35, 36) st s rem for right front. Right front: Purl 1 WS row. At beg of RS rows,
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BO 4 sts once, BO 3 st s once, then BO 2 sts once—20 (22, 22 , 23, 24, 26, 27) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. Dec row (RS) Ssk, kn it to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more time(s)—18 (20, 20, 21, 21, 23, 24) sts rem. Work even unti l armho le measu res 7¼ (7½, 8, 8¼ , 8¾, 9¼, 9½)", ending w ith a WS row. Shape shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (RS) K9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 10, 11), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) Purl to end. Next row (RS) Knit to end, working wrap tog with wrapped st . Place sts on holder. Left front: Return 2 9 (31, 31, 32, 33, 35,
36) left front sts to needle a nd, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. At beg of WS rows, BO 4 sts once, BO 3 st s once, then BO 2 sts once—20 (22, 22 , 23, 24, 26, 27) sts rem. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 2 s ts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more time(s)—18 (20, 20, 21, 21, 23, 24) sts rem. Work even until ar mhole measures 7 ¼ (7 ½, 8, 8¼, 8¾ , 9¼ , 9½)", endi ng wit h a R S row. Shap e shoulder using short-rows as foll: Short-row 1 (WS) P9 (9, 9, 9, 9, 10, 11), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Knit to end. Next row (WS) Purl to end, working wrap tog with wrapped st . Place sts on holder.
With smaller dpn, CO 46 (48, 50, 52, 56, 58, 60) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 4 times. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger dpn. Work in St st until piece measures 2" from CO. Note: Sleeve shaping and patterning occur simultaneously; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Inc rnd Work 1 st, M1L (or M1LP to keep in patt), work to last st, M1R (or M1RP to keep in patt), work 1 st—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 8 (8, 8, 6, 6, 5, 5)t h rnd 12 (12, 13, 16, 18, 21, 23) more times, working new sts into patt—72 (74, 78, 86, 94, 102, 108) sts. At the same time, work patt as foll: Work in St st until piece measures 11" from CO. Work 7 rnds of Garter Stripe patt—66 (68, 70, 80, 84, 90, 92) sts. Next rnd K1, p1 (2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2), k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to last 2 (3, 2, 3, 3, 2, 3) sts, p1 (2, 1, 2, 2, 1, 2), k1. Work 14 more rnds in rib patt as established. Work 7 rnds of Garter Stripe patt. Work in St st until piece measures 16½ (16½, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18½)" from CO, ending 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) sts before end of rnd on last rnd. Shape cap: Next rnd BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts, removing m, knit to end—62 (64, 66, 74, 80, 86, 90) sts rem. Beg working back and forth in rows. BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts at beg of next 2 rows—58 (60, 62, 68, 74, 78, 82) sts rem. Size 53¼" on ly: BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows—78 sts rem. All sizes: Purl 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) Ssk, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8) more times, then every 4th row 1 (2, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2) time(s), then every RS row 8 (8, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9) times—26 (26, 28, 30, 36, 38, 38) sts rem. BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—16 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 24) sts rem. BO all sts.
With smaller dpn, CO 46 (48, 50, 52, 56, 58, 60) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 4 times. Purl 1 rnd. Change to larger dpn. Work in St st until piece measures 2" from CO. Note: Sleeve shaping and patterning occur simultaneously; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Inc rnd Work 1 st, M1L (or M1LP to keep in patt), work to last st, M1R (or M1RP to keep in patt), work 1 st—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 8 (8, 8, 6, 6, 5, 5)th rnd 12 (12, 13, 16, 18, 21, 23) more ti mes, working new sts into patt—72 (74, 78, 86, 94, 102, 108) sts. At the same time, work patt as foll: Work in St st until piece meas ures 5½" from CO. Work 7 r nds of Garter Stripe patt—56 (58, 60, 64, 68, 72, 74) sts. Next rnd K1, p2 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1), k2,
66
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*p2, k2; rep from * to last 3 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 2) sts, p2 (1, 2, 2 , 2, 2, 1), k1. Work 14 more rnds in rib patt as established. Work 7 rnds of Garter Str ipe patt. Work in St st until piec e mea sures 16½ (16½, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18½)" from CO, ending 5 (5, 6, 6, 7, 8, 9) st s before end of rnd on last rnd. Shape cap: Next rnd BO 10 (10, 12, 12, 14, 16, 18) sts, removing m, knit to end—62 (64, 66, 74, 80, 86, 90) sts rem. Beg working back and forth in rows. Working in garter st, BO 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts at beg of next 2 rows—58 (60, 62, 68, 74, 78, 82) sts rem. Size 53¼" only: Working in garter st, BO 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows—78 sts rem. All sizes: Note: Cap shaping and patterning occur simultaneously; read the foll section all the way through before proceeding. Knit 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 0) more time—54 (56, 58, 64, 70, 74, 76) sts rem. Next row (WS) P2 (1, 2, 1, 2, 2, 1), *k2, p2; rep from * to last 0 (3, 0, 3, 0, 0, 3) sts, k0 (2, 0, 2, 0, 0, 2), p0 (1, 0, 1, 0, 0, 1). Dec row (RS) Ssk, work in patt to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Work in rib patt as established for 13 more rows, then in garter st for 6 rows, then rest of sleeve cap in St st, at the same time , rep Dec row every RS row 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7) more times, then every 4th row 1 (2, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2) time(s), then every RS row 8 (8, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9) times—26 (26, 28, 30, 36, 38, 38) sts rem. BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) sts at beg of foll 2 rows—16 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 24) sts rem. BO all sts.
Finishing
Join shoulders using three-needle BO. Block pieces to measurements. Neckband: With smaller dpn and RS facing, beg at right shoulder seam, pick up and knit 4 sts along side of back neck, 41 (43, 47, 49, 55, 57, 61) sts evenly along BO edge of back, 4 sts a long side of back neck, 6 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) sts along side of front neck, 37 (39, 43, 45, 49, 51, 55) sts evenly along BO edge of front, and 6 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) sts along side of front neck—98 (104, 112, 116, 130, 134, 142) sts. [Purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd] 6 times. Purl 1 rnd. BO all sts. Sew sleeves into armholes, taking care to line up ri b panels on front and back with that of right sleeve cap. Weave in ends.
Julia Farwell-Clay can be found at www.juliafarwellclay.com and on Ravelry as juliafc.
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Gauge 24 sts and 28 rows = 4" in charted patt on larger needle
Tools • Size 6 (4 mm): 40" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 8 (5 mm): 40" cir needle • Cable needle (cn) • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle • 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 22)" separating zipper • Sewing needle and matching thread See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This vest is worked back and forth in one
A circular needle is used to accommodate
the large number of stitches. The Cable chart uses what is normally considered the wrong side of the cable as the right side. When shaping armholes in chart pattern, if Frankel you do not have enough stitches to com page 28 plete a cable, work the affected stitches in knit or purl as established. Keep one stitch at each edge in stockiRowan Pure Wool Worsted nette stitch throughout for selvedge.
Vest Katya
piece to the underarms, then divided for working the fronts and back separately.
Sizes 33½ (36½ , 39½ , 42½ , 45½ , 48½ )"
Stitches
bust circumference, zipped; shown in size 36½", mode led wi th ½" of po sitive ease Yarn Rowan Pure Wool Worsted (100% superwash wool; 219 yd [200 m]/100 g): • #106 rust, 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins Yarn distributed by Westminster Fibers
Hem Rib: (multiple of 16 sts + 2)
Row 1 (RS) *K2, p2, k2, p6, k2, p2; rep from * to last 2 sts, k2.
Row 2 (WS) *P2, k2, p2, k 6, p2, k2; rep from * to last 2 sts, p2. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
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7 ( 7¼ , 7 ¾, 8 , 8 ¼, 8 ¾)"
With smaller cir needle, CO 178 (194, 210, 226, 242, 258) sts. Do not join. Work Hem Rib (see Stitches) until piece measures 2 (2, 2¼, 2¼ , 2½ , 2½ )" from CO, ending wit h a WS row. Inc row (RS) K1, *k5, M1L, p6, M1R, k5; rep from * to last st, k1—200 (218, 236, 254, 272, 290) sts. Change to larger cir needle. Next row (WS) P7, *k6, p12; rep from * to last 13 sts, k6, p7. Next row (RS) K1, work Cable chart to last st, k1. Next row (WS) P1, work chart to last st, p1. Cont in patt as est ablished until piece measures 14½ (15, 15, 15, 15½, 15½)" from CO, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) Work 50 (55, 59, 64, 68, 73) left front sts in patt, place marker ( pm), work 100 (108, 118, 126, 136, 144) back sts in patt, pm, work 50 (55, 59, 64, 68, 73) right front sts in patt. Divide for fronts and back: Next row (RS) *Work in patt to 6 (7, 8, 9, 11, 12) sts b efore m, BO 12 (14, 16, 18, 22, 24) sts in patt, removing m; rep from * once more, work in patt to end—44 (48, 51, 55, 57, 61) sts rem for each front and 88 (94, 102, 108, 114, 120) sts rem for back. Place right and left front sts on holders, leaving yarn attached to left front.
Back With WS facing, join new yarn to 88 (94, 102, 108, 114, 120) back sts. Next row (WS) P1, work in patt to last st, p1. Shape armholes: BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts at beg of next 2 rows—82 (88, 94, 100, 104, 108) sts
¾" 2¾ (3, 3¼ , 3½ , 3¾, 3¾)"
4¾ (5, 5¼ , 5½ , 5 ¾, 5 ¾)"
7 ( 7½ , 7 ¾, 8¼, 8 ¾, 9¼)"
body
33¼ ( 36 ¼, 3 9¼ , 42¼ , 4 5¼ , 4 8¼ )"
rem. Dec row (RS) Ssk, work in patt to last 2 sts, k2tog—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) more times—76 (80, 84, 90, 94, 98) sts rem. Work even until armhole measures 6¼ (6¾ , 7, 7½, 8, 8½)", ending with a WS row. Shape neck: Next row (RS) Work 23 (24, 25, 27, 28, 29) sts in patt and place these sts on holder for right shoulder, BO 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) sts in patt for neck, work in patt to end—23 (24, 25, 27, 28, 29) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: Next row (WS) Work in patt to end. At beg of RS rows, BO 3 sts 2 times—17 (18, 19, 21, 22, 23) sts rem. Place sts on holder. Right shoulder:
Cable k on RS; p on WS 31 29
p on RS; k on WS
27
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, p3, k1 from cn
25 23 21
sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1, p3 from cn
19 17 15
pattern repeat
13 11 9 7 5 3 1 18 st repeat
70
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14½ (15, 15, 15 , 15½ , 15½ )"
Return 23 (24, 25, 27, 28, 29) held right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. At beg of WS rows, BO 3 sts 2 times —17 (18, 19, 21, 22, 23) sts rem. Work 1 RS row in patt. Place sts on holder.
Return 44 (48, 51, 55, 57, 61) held left front sts to needle with WS facing. Next row (WS) P1, work in patt to last st, p1. Shape armhole: Next row (RS) BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts, work in patt to end—41 (45, 47, 51, 52, 55) sts. Work 1 WS row even. Dec row (RS) Ssk, work in patt to last st, k1—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) more times—38 (41, 42, 46, 47, 50) sts rem. Work even until armhole mea sures 2¼ (2½ , 2½, 2¾ , 3, 3½)", ending with a RS row. Shape neck: At beg of WS rows, BO 11 (12, 12, 13, 13, 14) sts once, BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts once, then BO 2 st s once—20 (21, 22, 24, 25, 26) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K1, work in patt to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 more t imes—17 (18, 19, 21, 22, 23) s ts rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½, 7 ¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼)". Place sts on holder.
Return 44 (48, 51, 55, 57, 61) held right front sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Shape armhole: Next row (WS) BO 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 6) sts, work in patt to end—41 (45, 47, 51, 52, 55) st s. Dec row (RS) Work in patt to last 2 sts, k2tog—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 4, 4, 4, 4) more times—38 (41, 42, 46, 47, 50) sts rem. Work even until a rmhole meas ures 2¼ (2½ , 2½ , 2¾ , 3, 3½)", ending wit h a W S row. Shape neck: At beg of RS rows, BO 11 (12, 12, 13, 13, 14) sts once, BO 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8) sts once, then BO 2 sts once—20 (21, 22, 24, 25, 26) sts rem. Work 1 WS row even. Dec
row (RS) Ssk, work in patt to last st,
Turning row (RS) Purl. Next row (WS) Knit.
k1—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 more ti mes—17 (18, 19, 21, 22, 23) st s rem. Work even until armhole measures 7 (7½, 7¾, 8¼, 8¾, 9¼)". Place sts on holder.
Cont in gar ter st unt il coll ar measu res 1¼ (1¼, 1½, 1½, 1¾, 1¾ )" f rom tu rn ing row, ending with a RS row. Inc row (WS) K4 (9, 8, 10, 9, 9), [M1L, k5] 19 (19, 20, 21, 22 , 23) time s, M1L, k5 (10, 9, 11, 10, 10)—124 (134, 138, 148, 152, 158) sts. BO all sts. Zipper: Note: Trim zip length at top if necessary to fit front opening from CO edge to turning row, and sew new stops with needle and thread. With sewing needle and thread, sew each side of zipper to center front edges, ending just before turning row. Fold collar to WS at turning row and sew BO edge to pick-up row, catching top of zipper between layers. With sewing needle and thread, sew side of collar facing to zip tape on WS. Weave in ends.
Finishing
Join shoulders using three-needle BO. Block to measurements. Armhole edgings: With dpn and RS facing, beg at center of underarm and pick up and knit 84 (92, 100, 108, 120, 124) sts around armhole edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k2, p2 rib for 4 rnds. BO all sts in patt. Collar: With smaller cir needle and RS facing, beg at right front neck edge and pick up and knit 39 (43, 44, 48, 49, 51) sts along right front neck, 46 (48, 50, 52, 54, 56) sts along back neck, and 39 (43, 44, 48, 49, 51) sts along left front neck—124 (134, 138, 148, 152, 158) sts. Do not join. Dec row (WS) K4 (9, 8, 10, 9, 9), [k2tog, k4] 19 (19, 20, 21, 22, 23) times, k2to g, k4 (9, 8, 10, 9, 9)—104 (114, 117, 126, 129, 134) sts rem. Work in garter st unt il collar mea sures 1½ (1½, 1¾, 1¾, 2, 2)" from pick-up row, ending w ith a WS row.
Katya Frankel is a freelance knitwear designer living in England. She predominately designs knitwear for women and children and is known for her inventive, yet classic, wardrobe staples. Visit www .katyafrankel.com for more of Katya’s work.
F ire Isle
Amy Gunderson
page 30
Fibra Natura Llamalini
Sizes 38½ (4 2, 45½, 50, 53½ , 57)" bust circumference; shown in size 38½", modeled w ith 3½" of po sitive ease Yarn Fibra Natura Llamalini (40% royal llama, 35% silk bourette, 25% linen; 109 yd [100 m]/50 g): • #112 Caspian (blue; MC), 10 (11, 12, 13, 15, 16) skeins • #101 birchbark (CC), 1 skein Yarn distributed by Universal Yarn Gauge 21 sts and 26 rows = 4" in Slipped Rib patt; 21 sts and 28 rows = 4" in Twisted Lattice patt; 21 sts and 20 rows = 4" in Chevron patt
Tools • Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" and 32" circular (cir) needles • Marker (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle See kn ittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This pul lover is worked flat from side to side in one piece beginning at the cuff of the left sleeve and finishing at the cuff of the right sleeve. Stitches are divided at the beginning of the neck and joined at the
Winter15 Knitscene
71
6½ (7½ , 8, 9¼, 9 ¾, 10½ )"
end of the neck. The cowl neck is worked
separately and sewn to the neck edge
5¾ (5 ¾, 6¼, 6¼, 6¾, 6¾)" (Back)
after the body is seamed.
6¾ (6¾, 7¼, 7¼, 7¾, 7¾)" (Front)
16½"
A circular needle is used to accommodate
the large number of stitches. Stitches
7¼ ( 7½ , 8, 8¼, 8¾, 9)"
Slipped Rib in rows: (odd number of sts) Row 1 (RS)
K1, p1, *sl 1 pwise wyb, p1; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 2 (WS) P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
body 13 (12½ , 13¾ , 13¼ , 14½ , 14)" Note: Body length measurement does not include rib.
Slipped Rib in rnds: (even number of sts) Rnd 1 *K1,
p1; rep from * to end. Rnd 2 *Sl 1 pwis e wyb, p1; rep from * to end. Rep Rnds 1 and 2 for patt.
With MC and longer cir needle, CO 43 (43, 43, 45, 47, 47) sts. Do not join. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row. Work Row 2 of Slipped Rib patt (see Stitches), then work Rows 1 and 2 two times. Inc row (RS) K1, p1, M1P, work in patt to last 2 sts, M1P, p1, k1—2 sts i nc’d. Rep Inc row every 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 2nd) row 4 (7, 13, 16, 19, 1) more time(s), then every 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 4)th row 11 (10, 6, 4, 2, 22) times, alternating M1 and M1P incs to maintain rib patt—75 (79, 83, 87, 91, 95) sts. Work even in patt until piece measures 16½" from CO, ending w ith a WS row.
Using the backward-loop method, CO 68 (66, 72, 70, 76, 74) sts at end of next 2 rows—211 (211, 227, 227, 243, 2 43) sts. Beg with Row 1 (7, 1, 5, 11, 5) of chart, work Twisted Lattice chart until piece measures ab out 6½ (7½, 8, 9 ¼, 9¾, 10½)" from CO, ending with Row 10 (10, 8, 8, 6, 6) of chart. Divide for back and front: Next row (RS) Work Row 11 (11, 9, 9, 7, 7) of chart over 99 (99, 107, 107, 115, 115) sts and place these sts on holder for back, join 2nd ball of MC, BO 21 st s for neck, work Row 11 (11, 9, 9, 7, 7) of chart over 91 (91, 99, 99, 107, 107) sts for front.
Cont in patt for 2 (2, 4, 4, 6, 6) more rows, ending with Row 1 of chart. Work Rows 1–29 of Chevron chart. With MC, knit 1 RS row. Break yarns; slide sts to other end of needle; rejoin MC. Beg with Row 1, work 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7) rows of Twisted Lattice chart. Place sts on holder. Do not break yarn.
Back Beg with Row 12 (12, 10, 10, 8, 8) of Twisted Lattice chart, cont in patt until piece measures ab out 5¾ (5¾, 6¼, 6¼ , 6¾ , 6¾)"
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" ) 9 , 9 , ½ 8 , ¼ 8 , ¼ 8 ( ¼ 8
18¾ (20½ , 22¼, 24½ , 26 ¼, 28)" (Back) 19¾ (21½ , 23 ¼, 25½, 27 ¼, 29)" (Fron t)
Chevron
from neck BO, ending with Row 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7) of chart. Break yarn.
with MC, k on RS; p on WS
with CC, k on RS; p on WS
Joining row (WS) Work next row of Twisted Lattice chart over 91 (91, 99, 99, 107, 107) front sts, CO 21 sts for neck, work in patt over 99 (99, 107, 107, 115, 115) back sts—211 (211, 227, 227, 243, 243) sts. Cont in patt unti l piece mea sure s about 6½ (7½ , 8, 9¼, 9¾ , 10½)" from neck CO, endi ng wit h Row 1 (7, 1, 9, 3, 9) of chart.
Next row (WS) BO 68 (66, 72, 70, 76, 74) sts, work in patt to end—143 (145, 155, 157, 167, 169) sts rem. Next row (RS) BO 68 (66, 72, 70, 76, 74) sts, work Row 1 of Slipped Rib patt to end—75 (79, 83, 87, 91, 95) sts rem. Cont in Slipped Rib patt until piece measu res 2¾ (1¾ , 1¾ , 1¾, 1¾ , 1½)" from BO, ending with a WS row. Dec row (RS) K1, ssp, work in patt to last 3 sts, p2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 4)th row 11 (10, 6, 4, 2, 22) more times, then every 4th (4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 2nd) row 4 (7, 13, 16, 19, 1) time(s)—43 (43, 43, 4 5, 47, 47) sts rem. Work even until piece measures 16¼" from BO, ending w ith a WS row. Knit 1 row, purl 1 row. BO all sts.
26 24
sl 1 pwise wyf on WS
22
pattern repeat 20
k2tog but do not drop sts from left needle, k1, drop both sts from left needle
18
knit 2nd st on left needle tbl, k1, drop both sts from left needle
14
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k1, transfer 1 st from cn to left needle and k1, k1 from cn
10
16
12
8 6
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k1, transfer 1 st from cn to left needle and k1, k1 from cn
4 2 1 (WS) 8 st repeat
Twisted Lattice 11 9 7
Finishing
Back rib: With MC and RS facing, pick up and k nit 91 (99, 109, 117, 127, 135) sts evenly spaced along lower edge of back. Beg with Row 2, work in Slipped Rib patt for 13 rows. Kn it 1 row, purl 1 row. BO all sts. Front rib: With MC and RS facing, pick up and knit 32 (36, 41, 45, 50, 54) sts along right lower front edge, 25 sts along chevron panel, and 32 (36, 41, 45, 50, 54) sts along left lower front edge—89 (97, 107, 115, 125, 133) sts total. Beg with Row 2, work in Slipped Rib patt for 13 rows. Knit 1 row, purl 1 row. BO all sts. Cowl: With MC and 16" cir needle, CO 100 (100, 106, 106, 112, 112) sts. Place marker and join in the rnd. Work in Slipped Rib patt (see Stitches) unt il piece measures 9½" from CO, ending with Rnd 1. Knit 2 rnds. BO all sts. Weave in ends. Block to measurements. Sew sleeve and side seams. Sew CO edge of cowl to neck edge so that RS of cowl is visible when cowl is folded down.
28
5 3 1 8 st repeat
Amy Gunderson lives in North Carolina with her husband and their yellow lab, Suzy. When she’s not working at her day job at Universal Yarn, she’s dog-wrangling, motorcycle riding, or watching TV and knitting.
Winter 15 Knitscene
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for the right shoulder are cast on at the end of the cowl, and the right front is worked down. The sleeves are worked in the round to the underarm, with the cap worked flat. The shoulders are seamed, the right front piece is seamed to the rest
of the front, the bound-off edge of the cowl
is seamed to the slanted side edge of the front/cowl to form a tube, and then the sleeves are sewn in. While worki ng the collar short-rows, if working a wrap together with a wrapped stitch on a twisted s titch, work the wrap togeth-
er with the wrapped stitch through the back loop. Stitches Twisted Moss Stitch in rnds: (even
Bristol Iv y
number of sts) Rnd 1 *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to end. Rnds 2 and 3 *P1, k1tbl; rep from * to end. Rnd 4 Rep Rnd 1. Rep Rnds 1–4 for patt.
Twisted Moss Stitch in rows: (even
page 28
Pigeonroof Studios American Twist Worsted
Sizes 32 (35 ¾, 40¼, 44, 4 8½ , 52)" bu st circumference; shown in size 40¼", modeled wit h 4¼" of positive ease Yarn Pigeonroof Studios American Twist Worsted (100% American merino; 175 yd [160 m]/115 g): • sagebrush, 6 (7, 8, 8, 9, 10) skeins Gauge 17½ sts and 25 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needle
Tools • Size 6 (4 mm): 32" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 8 (5 mm): 32" cir needle and set of dpn • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
The body of this pullover is worked in the round to the underarms, then divided for working the fronts and back separately. The twisted moss stitch pattern shifts across the front using increases and decreases, and continues after the shoulders are bound off to create the cowl, which is shaped with short rows. Stitches
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number of sts) Row 1 (RS) *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS) *P1tbl, k1; rep from * to end. Row 3 *P1, k1tbl; rep from * to end. Row 4 *K1, p1tbl; rep from * to end. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt.
Twisted Moss Stitch in rows: (odd
number of sts) Row 1 (RS) *K1tbl, p1; rep from * to last st, k1tbl. Row 2 (WS) *K1, p1tbl; rep from * to last st, k1. Row 3 *P1, k1tbl; rep from * to last st, p1. Row 4 *P1tbl, k1; rep from * to last st, p1tbl. Rep Rows 1–4 for patt. Twisted Rib: (continued
from Twisted
Moss Stitch) Set-up row (WS) Knit the twisted purl sts and purl tbl the knit sts, as they appear. Row 1 (RS) Knit tbl the twisted kn it sts and purl the purl sts, as they appear. Row 2 (WS) Purl tbl the twisted purl sts and knit the knit sts, as they appear. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
With smaller cir needle, CO 140 (156, 176, 192, 212, 228) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 2". Change to larger cir needle. Next rnd K70 (78, 88, 96, 106, 114), pm for side, knit to end. Next rnd Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, pm, M1, sl m, knit to end. Next rnd Knit. Shift rnd Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, k1tbl, M1P, sl m, k nit to end. Next rnd Knit to m, sl m, p1, k1tbl, sl m, knit to end. Shift
rnd Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m,
k1tbl, p1, M1, sl m, k nit to e nd. Next rnd Knit to m, sl m, p1, k1tbl, p1, sl m, knit to end. Shift rnd Knit to 2 sts before m, k2tog, sl m, work Twisted Moss st in rnds (see Stitches) as established to m, M1 (or M1P to keep in patt), sl m, knit to end. Next rnd Knit to m, sl m, work in patt to m, sl m, knit to end. Rep last 2 rnds 36 (40, 44, 45, 46, 49) more times, working new sts between m into Twisted Moss st, and ending 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts before end of rnd on last rnd—30 (34, 40, 47, 56, 61) sts in St st between rnd m and patt m and 40 (44, 48, 49, 50, 53) sts in patt between patt m and side m; piece mea sures about 15 (16¼ , 17½ , 17¾ , 18¼, 19)" from CO. Divide for front and back: Next rnd BO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts, removing rnd m, knit to 2 sts before patt m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts before side m, M1, place 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts just worked on holder for front, BO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts, removing side m, knit to end—64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) sts rem for back.
6¾ (6 ¾, 7¼ , 7, 7, 7)" 8 (8¾ , 9, 9¼ , 9, 9½ )" 14"
1½ (1½ , 1¾, 1¾, 2 ¾, 2 ¾)"
¾" 7¼ ( 7¾ , 8½ , 9, 9¼ , 10 )" 11½ (12¼ , 12 ¾, 13¼ , 12 , 12¼)"
15 (16¼ , 17½ , 17 ¾, 18 ¼, 19 )"
body
32 ( 35¾ , 40 ¼, 4 4, 4 8½ , 52 )"
3¼ (3¼ , 3 ¾, 3 ¾, 4, 4½ )"
5½ (6¼ , 6½ , 7¼, 7¼, 7½ )"
Back Next row (WS) Purl. Shape armholes:
Sizes 35¾ (40¼, 44, 48½ , 52)" only: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Dec row (WS) P1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 0 (1, 1, 2, 3) more time(s)—68 (72, 80, 84, 88) sts rem. Sizes 44 (48 ½, 52)" only: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 4) more times—74 (76, 78) sts rem. All sizes: Work even unti l armhole measu res 7¼ (7¾ , 8½, 9, 9¼, 10)", ending wit h a W S row. Shape neck and shoulders: Next row (RS) BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts, k4 (4, 5, 5, 7, 7) (including last st from BO), k2tog, k1, place last 6 (6, 7, 7, 9, 9) st s worked on holder for right shoulder, BO 46 (50, 52, 54, 48, 50) sts, k1, ssk, knit to end—8 (8, 9, 9, 13, 13) sts rem for left shoulder. Left shoulder: Next row (WS) BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts, purl to end—6 (6, 7, 7, 9, 9) sts rem. Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to end—5 (5, 6, 6, 8, 8) sts rem. Next row (WS) BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts, purl to end—3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts rem. Knit 1 RS row. BO all sts. Right shoulder: Return 6 (6, 7, 7, 9, 9) held right shoulder sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn. Purl 1 WS row. Dec row (RS) BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. BO all sts.
sleeve 19 (19, 19, 19¼ , 19¼, 19½ )"
body
" ) ¾ 7 1 , 6 1 , ¾ 4 1 , ¾ 3 1 , ¾ 2 1 ( 2 1
(assembled)
9½ (9½ , 9½ , 9½ , 10½ , 10½ )"
Winter15 Knitscene
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Return 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104) held front sts to needle and, with WS facing, rejoin yarn—26 (30, 35, 42, 50, 55) sts in St st before m and 38 (42, 45, 46, 46, 49) sts in patt after m. Next row (WS) Work Twisted Moss st in rows (see Stitches) to m (working Row 2 or 4 to keep in patt), sl m, purl to end. Shape armholes: Sizes 35¾ (40¼, 44, 48½, 52)" only: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to 2 sts before patt m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to last 3 sts, M1 (or M1P to keep in patt), k2tog, k1—2 sts de c’d. Dec row (WS) P1, p2tog, work in patt to last 3 sts, ssp, p1—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 0 (1, 1, 2, 3) more time(s)—68 (72, 80, 84, 88) sts rem: 27 (29, 36, 41, 43) sts in St st before m and 41 (43, 44, 43, 45) sts in patt af ter m. Sizes 44 (48½, 52)" only: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to 2 sts before patt m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to end—2 sts dec’d (1 st at left armhole and 1 st at m). Rep Dec row every RS row 2 (3, 4) more times—74 (76, 78) sts rem: 30 (33, 33) sts in St st before m and 44 (43, 45) sts in patt after m. Work 1 WS row even. All sizes: Dec row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before patt m, k2tog, sl m, work in patt to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 18 (19, 20, 21, 20, 20) more times—45 (48, 51, 52, 55, 57) sts rem: 7 (7, 8, 8, 12, 12) sts in St st before m and 38 (41, 43, 44, 43, 45) sts in patt after m. Work even in patt until armhole meas ures 7¼ (7¾, 8½, 9, 9¼, 10)", ending with a WS row. Shape left shoulder: At beg of RS rows, BO 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts once, then BO 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts once, then BO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts once—38 (41, 43, 44, 43, 45) sts rem. Cowl: Work 9 rows even in patt, ending with a RS row. Shape collar using short-rows as foll: Note: Short-rows 1–6 are worked in Twisted Rib (see Stitches) and Rows 8–15 are worked in Twisted Moss st. Short-row 1 (WS) Work Set-up row of Twisted Rib over 14 sts, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Work in patt to end. Short-row 3 Work 28 sts in patt, working wrap tog with wrapped st (see Notes), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 Rep Short-row 2. Short-row 5 Work 14 sts in patt, wrap next st, turn. Short-row 6 Rep Short-row 2. Row 7 Knit the twisted purl sts and purl tbl the knit sts, as they appear, working wraps tog with wrapped sts. Row 8 Knit tbl the twisted knit sts and purl the purl sts, as they appear. Rows 9–14 Rep Rows 7 and 8 three times.
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Rep Short-rows/ Rows 1–14 eight more times. Shape right front shoulder: Next row (WS) Work in patt to end, pm, turn, then using the cable method, CO 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts—41 (44, 46, 47, 47, 49) sts. Next row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work in patt to end. Next row (WS) Work in patt to m, sl m, purl to end, turn, then CO 2 (2, 3, 3, 4, 4) sts—43 (46, 49, 50, 51, 53) sts. Next row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work in patt to end. Next row (WS) Work in patt to m, sl m, purl to end, turn, then CO 2 (2, 2, 2, 4, 4) sts— 45 (48, 51, 52, 55, 57) sts. Sizes 44 (48 ½, 52)" only: Inc row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, M1L, k2, sl m, work in patt to end—1 st inc’d. Inc row (WS) Work in patt to m, sl m, p2, M1P, purl to end—1 st inc’d. Rep last 2 rows once more—56 (59, 61) sts. All sizes: Inc row (RS) Knit to 2 sts before m, M1L, k2, sl m, work in patt to end—1 st inc’d. Rep Inc row every RS row 7 (7, 8, 6, 6, 6) more times—53 (56, 60, 63, 66, 68) sts. Next row (WS) BO 38 (41, 43, 44, 43, 45) sts pwise, pu rl to end—15 (15, 17, 19, 23, 23) st s rem. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 12 (12, 14, 10, 6, 6) more times—2 (2, 2, 8, 16, 16) sts rem. Sizes 44 (48 ½, 52)" only: Dec row (WS) P1, p2tog, purl to end—1 st dec’d. Dec row (RS) Knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—1 st dec’d. Rep la st 2 rows 2 (6, 6) more times—2 sts rem. All sizes: Work 2 (2, 0, 0, 0, 0) rows even. BO all sts.
With smaller dpn, CO 42 (42, 42, 42, 46, 46) sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 2". Change to larger dpn and work in St st unti l piece measures 5¾ (4¾ , 4, 3¾, 3½, 3)" from C O. Inc rnd K1, M1, knit to las t st, M1, k1—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc r nd every 20 (14, 12, 10, 10, 8)th rnd 1 (4, 2, 4, 1, 2) more time(s), then every 18 (12, 10, 8, 8, 6)th rnd 3 (2, 6, 6, 10, 13) times— 52 (56, 60, 64, 70, 78) st s. Work even until piece measure s 19 (19, 19, 19¼ , 19¼ , 19½ )" f rom CO, e nding 3 (3, 4, 4, 5, 5) sts before end of rnd on last rnd. Next rnd BO 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) sts, removing m, knit to end—46 (50, 52, 56, 60, 68) sts rem. Purl 1 WS row. Shape cap: Siz es 35¾ (40¼, 44, 48½ , 52)" only: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Dec row (WS) P1, p2tog, purl to last 3 sts, ssp, p1—2 sts dec’d. Rep last 2 rows 0 (1, 1, 2, 3) more time(s)—46 (44, 48, 48, 52) sts rem.
Size 40¼" only: Work 2 rows even. All sizes: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 4 (3, 0, 2, 3, 4) more times, then every 4th row 5 (6, 7, 6, 2, 3) times, then every 6th row 0 (0, 0, 1, 3, 2) time(s)—26 (26, 28, 28, 30, 32) sts rem. BO 3 sts at beg of next 4 rows—14 (14, 16, 16, 18, 20) sts rem. BO all sts.
Finishing
Sew left shoulder seam. Sew CO shoulder sts of right front shoulder piece to BO sts of back right shoulder. Beg at end of armhole shaping
[about ¼ (¾ , 1, 2, 2½, 3¼)" up from armhole BO] seam diagonal edge of St st insert to slanted side edge of front, then seam BO edge of collar to slanted side edge of front/collar, such that BO edge of collar shows on RS, and leaving about a 22" circumference open at top of collar for neck. Sew in sleeves. Seam collar to back neck, stretching slightly to fit. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
Bristol Ivy is a knitting designer and teacher from Portland, Maine. Her work focuses on the intersection of classic tailoring and innovative technique. You can find out more about her and her work at www.bristolivy.com.
Winter 15 Knitscene
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13½ (14½ , 14 ¾, 15 ½, 15½, 16 )"
" ) ¾ 2 5 , ¾ 8 4 , ¾ 4 4 , ¾ 0 4 , ¾ 6 3 (
5½ ( 6, 6½ , 6¾, 7½ , 8)"
body
15 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16)"
1½"
¾ 2 3
35¼ (39¼ , 4 3¼ , 47¼ , 51¼ , 55¼ )"
1¾"
3¼"
2¾ (3 , 3½ , 3¾, 3¾, 4)"
Jesie Ostermiller
2¼" 5½"
5 ( 5¾, 6¼, 6 ½, 7, 7½ )"
11½ (12 , 13½, 15½, 17¼, 18 )"
14 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)"
right sleeve
page 29
Cascade Yarns Cascade 220
10 (10½ , 10¾, 11½ , 12½ , 12¾ )"
Sizes 35¼ (39¼ , 43¼ , 47¼ , 51¼ , 55¼ )" bust circumfere nce; shown in size 35¼", modeled wit h 3¼" of positi ve ease Yarn Cascade Yarns Cascade 220 (100% Peruvian highland wool; 220 yd [201 m]/100 g): • #8393 navy (MC), 3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 5) skeins • #8010 natural (CC), 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4) skeins Gauge 20 sts and 26 rnds = 4" in St st
Tools • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" and 32" circular (cir) needles • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This pul lover is worked in the round from the lower edge to the underarm, then the f ront and back are worked separately back and forth. The sleeves are worked back and forth and seamed before setting into the armholes and seaming the saddle.
With MC and longer cir needle, CO 176 (196, 216, 236, 256, 276) sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in garter st
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(knit 1 rnd, purl 1 rnd) until piece measures 2" from CO. Change to St st. Shape shirttail using short-rows as foll: Note: Work wraps tog with wrapped sts as you come to them. Short-row 1 (RS) K29 (34, 39, 44, 49, 54), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 2 (WS) P58 (68, 78, 88, 98, 108), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 3 K63 (73, 83, 93, 103, 113), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 4 P68 (78, 88, 98, 108, 118), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 5 K73 (83, 93, 103, 113, 123), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 6 P78 (88, 98, 108, 118, 128), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 7 K83 (93, 103, 113, 123, 133), wrap next st, turn. Short-row 8 P88 (98, 108, 118, 128, 138), wrap next st, turn. Next row (RS) K44 (49, 54, 59, 64, 69), remove m, k44 (49, 54, 59, 64, 69), pm for new beg of rnd. Next rnd K88 (98, 108, 118, 128, 138), pm for side, knit to end. Work 5 (7, 7, 7, 7, 7) rnds even. Shape waist: Dec rnd *K2, ssk, knit to 4 sts before m, k2tog, k2; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every 8th rnd 0 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) more time(s), then every 6th rnd 2 (1, 1, 0, 0, 0)
time(s)—164 (184, 204, 224, 244, 264) sts rem. Work even for 4". Inc rnd *K2, LLI, knit to 2 sts before m, RLI, k2; rep from * once more—4 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every 14th rnd 1 (2, 2, 1, 1, 1) more time(s), then every 12th r nd 1 (0, 0, 1, 1, 1) time—176 (196, 216, 236, 256, 276) sts. Work even until piece measures 15 (16, 16, 16, 16, 16)" from CO at front. Divide for front and back: Sizes 35¼ (39¼ )" only: Next rnd BO 4 (5) sts, k7 (9), pm, beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Snowfall chart over 66 (70) sts, pm, knit to m, place next 88 (98) sts on holder for back—84 (93) sts rem for front. Sizes 43¼ (47¼, 51¼, 55¼)" on ly: Next rnd BO 6 (7, 8, 10) sts, knit to m, place next 108 (118, 128, 138) sts on holder for back—102 (111, 120, 128) s ts rem for front.
Work back and forth in rows. Next row (WS) BO 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts, work to end—80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 118) sts rem. BO 3 sts at beg of next 2 (2, 2, 4, 6, 6) rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 4, 4, 4, 4) rows—70 (78, 82, 84, 86, 92) sts rem. Sizes 43¼ (47¼, 51¼, 55¼)" on ly: Dec row (RS) K2tog, k3 (2, 3, 5), pm, beg and ending as indicated for your size, work
NOT YOUR GRANDMA'S KNITTING GUIDE The popular Mollie Makes team brings together their top designers to share tips, stories, and (most importantly!) the awesome knitted projects you covet. Designed to be a go-to resource for anyone just beginning to knit, you will learn the best ways to hold your needles,
KNITTING
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cast on, and make your first stitches. Whether you go for a fun pair of socks, or a more daring pompom headband or even a loopy poncho, Mollie Makes Knitting is your guide!
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MC
CC pattern repeat
Snowfall 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 6 st repeat end 39¼" 47¼" 51¼"
end 35¼" 43¼" 55¼"
beg 35¼" 43¼" 55¼"
beg 39¼" 47¼" 51¼"
Snowfall chart over 72 (76, 76, 78) sts, pm, knit to last 2 sts, ssk—80 (82, 84, 90) sts rem. Work 1 WS row. All sizes: Dec row (RS) K2tog, work in patt to last 2 sts, ssk—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 0 (2, 2, 1, 2, 4) more time(s)—68 (72, 74, 78, 78, 80) sts rem. Work even through Row 24 of chart. Break MC. With CC, work even until armhole mea sure s 5½ (6, 6½, 6¾, 7½ , 8)", ending with a WS row. BO all sts.
Back
Return 88 (98, 108, 118, 128, 138) back sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin MC. Sizes 35 ¼ (39¼)" only: Next row (RS) BO 4 (5) sts, k7 (9), pm, beg and ending as indicated for your size, work Snowfall chart over 66 (70) sts, pm, knit to end—84 (93) sts rem. Sizes 43¼ (47¼, 51¼, 55¼)" on ly: Next row (RS) BO 6 (7, 8, 10) sts, knit to end—102 (111, 120, 128) sts rem. All sizes: Work as for front.
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With CC, CO 50 (52, 54, 58, 62, 64) sts. Do not join. Work in garter st until piece measures 1½" from CO, ending with a WS row. Change to St st. Work even until piece measures 3 (3¼, 2, 2, 2, 2)" from CO, ending w ith a WS row. Inc row (RS) K3, M1, knit to last 3 sts, M1, k3—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc row every 18 (20, 12, 8, 8, 6)th row 3 (2, 3, 8, 2 , 12) more times, then every 0 (18, 10, 6, 6, 0)th row 0 (1, 3, 1, 9, 0) time(s)—58 (60, 68, 78, 86, 90) sts. Work even until piece measures 14 (15, 15, 15, 15, 15)" from CO, ending with a WS row. Shape cap: BO 4 (5, 6, 7, 8, 10) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then BO 3 sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 2, 4, 6, 6) rows, then BO 2 sts at beg of foll 2 (2, 4, 4, 4, 4) rows—40 (40, 42, 44, 44, 44) sts rem. Work 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 2) rows even, ending w ith a WS row. Dec row (RS) K2, k2tog, knit to last 4 sts, ssk, k2—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every 6th row 1 (3, 2, 0, 0, 3) more t ime(s), then every 4th row 4 (2, 4, 7, 7, 4) times—28 st s rem. Saddle: Work even for 2¾ (3, 3½, 3¾, 3¾, 4)", ending with a WS row. Right sleeve only: Next row (RS) K9 and place these sts on holder for front saddle, BO 8 sts, knit to end—11 sts rem for back saddle. Next row (WS) Purl. Dec row (RS) K2tog, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Next row (WS) Purl. Rep Dec row once more—9 sts rem. Work even until piece measures 3¼" from BO. Brea k yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Place sts on holder. Return 9 held front saddle sts to needle and, with RS facing, rejoin CC. Next row (RS) Knit. Next row (WS) BO 2 sts pwise, purl to end—7 sts rem. Next row (RS) Knit. Dec row (WS) P2tog, purl to end—1 st
dec’d. Rep Dec row every WS row 4 more times—2 sts rem. Next row (RS) Knit. BO all sts pwise. Left sleeve only: Next row (RS) K11 and place these sts on holder for back saddle, BO 8 sts, knit to end—9 sts rem for f ront saddle. Next row (WS) Purl. Next row (RS) BO 2 sts, knit to end—7 sts rem. Next row (WS) Purl. Dec row (RS) K2tog, knit to end—1 st dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 4 more times—2 st s rem. Next row (WS) Purl. BO all sts. Return 11 held sts to needle a nd, with RS facing, rejoin CC. Next row (RS) Knit. Dec row (WS) P2tog, purl to end—1 st dec’d. Next row (RS) Knit. Rep Dec row once more—9 sts rem. Work even unt il piece measure s 3¼" from BO. Place sts on holder.
Finishing
Block pieces to measurements. Sew sleeve seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew front saddles to body. If necessary, add or subtract rows to back saddles so that they meet at center back. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, graft back saddle sts using Kitchener st. Sew back saddle to body. Neck edging: With CC, shorter cir needle, and RS facing, beg at center back neck, pick up and knit 94 sts evenly spaced around neck edge. Pm and join in the rnd. Knit 1 rnd. Loosely BO all sts. Jesie Ostermiller is a designer who lives in
Logan, Utah, with her husband, two sons, and a very sizeable yarn stash. She can be found on Ravelry as knittyjo.
CLEVER WALL HOOK
TRAY & COASTERS
BAY LAUREL MIRROR
VIDEO
Work in St st for 2". Change to A. Work in St st for 1". Thumb gusset: Set-up rnd K15, pm, k2, pm, knit to end. Inc rnd knit to m, sl m, M1R, knit to m, M1L, sl m, knit to end—2 sts inc’d. Rep Inc rnd every other rnd 2 more times—38 sts. Knit 1 rnd. Change to B. Next rnd Knit to m, remove m and place 8 thumb sts on holder, remove m, knit to end—30 hand sts rem. Work in St st until B stripe measures 2". Break B and cont with A only. Work in S t st for 1". Shape tip: Set-up rnd K15, pm, knit to end. Dec rnd *K1, ssk, knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m; rep from * once more—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd 3 more times—14 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Next rnd [K2tog] 7 times—7 sts rem. Break yarn and draw tail through rem sts. Pull tightly to gather sts and fasten off on WS. Thumb: Return 8 thumb sts to larger needles. With
Vänskap Mittens Hannah Baker
page 33
Halcyon Yarn Botanica
Size 7½" hand circumference and 10¼" long Yarn Halcyon Yarn Botanica (100% wool; 160 yd [146 m] /113 g): • #032 (teal; A), 1 skein • #002 (gray; B), 1 skein Gauge 16 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in St st on larger needles
Tools • Size 4 (3.5 mm): set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 6 (4 mm): set of dpn • Markers (m) • Stitch holders • Tapestry needle
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
These mittens are worked in the round from the bottom up. Do not break yarn at each color change; carry unused color along inside of work and
bring new color up under color just use d.
Mittens
With A and smaller needles, CO 32 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 2 rnds. Work in St st until piece measures 2" from CO. Purl 1 rnd. Change to B (see Notes) and larger needles.
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B and RS facing, pick up and knit 4 sts at base of thumb, knit to end—12 sts. Pm and join in the rnd. Work in St st u ntil thumb meas ures 1½" from pick-up rnd. Next rnd [K2tog] 6 times—6 sts rem. Knit 1 rnd. Break yarn and draw tail through rem sts. Pull tightly to gather sts and fasten off on WS.
Finishing
Weave in ends and block.
Hannah Baker is the assistant editor of Interweave Knits .
Along with knitting, she enjoys reading, singing, all things pizza, friendship, and time spent with her Black Lab named Girlfriend.
Allyson Dykhuizen page 32
Brooklyn Tweed Shelter
Size 8" wide and 88" long, excluding fringe Yarn Brooklyn Tweed Shelter (100% American wool; 140 yd [128 m]/50 g): • meteorite (brown; A), 2 skeins • woodsmoke (ecru; B), 2 skeins • button jar (green; C), 2 skeins Gauge 19 sts and 22 rows = 4" in garter st
Tools • Size 9 (5.5 mm) needles • I/9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook • Tapestry needle
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This scarf is worked back and forth using the intarsia method. Use a separate ball of
yarn for each color area. At each color change, twist yarns to avoid a hole by
Rows 61–80 With A, k10; with B, k18; with A,
Rows 101–120 With C, k10; with A, k18; with
With A, CO 38 sts. Purl 1 WS row. Rows 1–20 With A, k14; with B, k10; with A, k14. Rows 21–40 With B, k10; with C, k18; with B, k10. Rows 41–60 With C, k14; with A, k10; with C, k14.
C, k10. Rep Rows 1–120 three more times. Next row (RS) With A, knit. BO all sts kw ise on WS.
Finishing
Allyson Dykhuizen can be found online at
Break yarns af ter every 20-row section.
k10.
Fringe: Cut twenty 10" strands of each
color. Holding 1 strand of each color tog, fold strands in half. With RS facing, insert crochet hook through a bottom corner of scarf, pull fold through edge of scarf, then pull ends of strands t hrough fold to secure. Place 9 more fringes evenly spaced across short edge of scar f. Rep for opposite end.
laying the old color over the new color.
Rows 81–100 With B, k14; with C, k10; with B, k14.
Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
www.thesweatshopoflove.com.
Winter 15 Knitscene
83
Stitches
Twisted Rib: (odd number of sts)
Row 1 (RS) K1, *k1tbl, p1; rep from * to last 2 sts, k1tbl, k1.
Row 2 (WS) P1, *p1tbl, k1; rep from * to last 2 sts, p1tbl, p1. Rep Rows 1 and 2 for patt.
Hat Back
Hat
Teresa Gregorio
With MC, CO 45 (49, 55) sts. Work in Twisted R ib (see St itches) until piece measure s 3½" from CO, ending w ith a RS row. Next row (WS) P8, place marker (pm), work Row 1 of Back chart over 13 sts, pm, purl to end. Next row (RS) Knit to m, sl m, work chart to m, sl m, k nit to end. Cont in patt as established th rough Row 37 of chart, ending with a WS row. Shape crown: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, work in patt to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec row every RS row 3 more times—37 (41, 47) sts rem. Work 1 row even. Dec row (RS) K1, sssk, work to last 4 sts, k3tog, k1—33 (37, 43) sts
page 34
Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Worsted
Sizes 19 (21, 23)" head circumference and 10½" tall; sh own in size 19" Yarn Brown Sheep Company Nature Spun Worsted (100% wool; 245 yd [224 m]/ 100 g): • #740W snow (MC), 1 skein • #103W deep sea (CC1), 1 skein • #124W butterscotch (CC2), 1 skein Gauge 19 sts and 26 rows = 4" in St st
Tools • Size 6 (4 mm) needles • Markers (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This hat is worked back and forth in two
pieces from the bottom up and seamed. The Front chart is worked using the intarsia method. Use a separate ball of yarn for
each contrast color (CC) area and a 2nd ball of main color (MC) for the area to the left of the chart. At each color change,
twist yarns to avoid a hole by laying the old color over the new color.
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rem. Next row (WS) Purl to m, remove m, work Row 47 of chart, remove m, purl to end. Dec row (RS) K1, sssk, knit to last 4 sts, k3tog, k1—29 (33, 39) sts rem. BO all sts a s foll: P1, p3tog, pass first st on right needle over 2nd st, *p1, pass first st over; rep from * until 4 sts rem on left needle, p3tog, pass first st over, p1, pass first st over. Fasten off last st.
With MC, CO 45 (49, 55) sts. Work in Twisted Rib until piece measures 3½" from CO, ending with a RS row. Next row (WS) P24 (28, 34), pm, work Row 1 of Front chart over 13 sts (see Notes), pm, purl to end. Complete as for back.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Block and sew side seams.
Teresa Gregorio can be found online at www.canaryknits.com and on Ravelry as canarysanctuary.
with MC, k on RS; p on WS
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, with CC1, k1; with MC, k1 from cn
with MC, k1tbl on RS; p1tbl on WS
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, with MC, k1; with CC1, k1 from cn
with MC, sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, k1, k1 from cn
with CC2, k on RS; p on WS
with MC, sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, k1, k1 from cn
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, with MC, k1; with CC2, k1 from cn
with CC1, k on RS; p on WS
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, with CC2, k1; with MC, k1 from cn
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, with MC, k1; with CC1, k1 from cn
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in back, with CC2, k1; with MC, k1 from cn
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, with CC1, k1; with MC, k1 from cn
sl 1 st onto cn, hold in front, with MC, k1; with CC2, k1 from cn
Front
Back
46
46
44
44
42
42
40
40
38
38
36
36
34
34
32
32
30
30
28
28
Tools
26
26
24
24
22
22
• Size 8 (5 mm) needles • Size H/8 (5 mm) crochet hook • Waste yarn • Tapestry needle
20
20
18
18
16
16
14
14
12
12
10
10
8
8
6
6
4
4
Talitha Kuomi
page 34
2 1 (WS)
2 1 (WS)
13 sts
13 sts
Malabrigo Rios
Size 12" wide and 62" circumference
Yarn Malabrigo Rios (100% superwash merino; 210 yd [192 m]/100 g): • #43 plomo, 3 skeins Gauge 19½ sts and 26 rows = 4" in Extended Ridge patt
See kn ittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This cowl is worked back and forth in rows, then the ends are grafted together in
pattern.
Using the crochet chain provisional method, CO 59 sts, leaving a 6" tail. Work Rows 3–6 of Extended Ridge chart ( page 86), then rep Rows 1–6 until piece measures about 62" from CO, ending with Row 6. Place sts on waste yarn holder. Break working yarn, leaving a 45" tail for grafting.
Finishing
Block to measurements. Remove waste
Winter 15 Knitscene
85
yarn from provisional CO and place 59 sts on needle, then create an extra st on same needle as foll: with CO tail threaded on a tapestry needle, wrap tail clockwise around needle and then through an edge st to WS of work—60 sts. Return 59 held sts to 2nd needle. Hold needles parallel with WS tog and 60 CO sts in back, making sure cowl isn’t twisted and both needle points face to the right. Thread grafting yarn onto a tapestry needle and graft st s in patt foll chart or written d irections. Note: In the written instructions, the sequences appear first, followed by the order in which the sequences are worked. Sequence A (knit st on FN, knit st on BN)
Step 1 Pwise through st on FN, leave. Step 2 Pwise through st on BN, remove. Step 3 Kwise through next st on BN, leave. Step 4 Kwise through st on FN, remove. Sequence B (purl st on FN, purl st on BN)
Step 1 Kwise through st on FN, leave. Step 2 Kwise through st on BN, remove. Step 3 Pwise through next st on BN, leave. Step 4 Pwise through st on FN, remove. Graft in patt:
*Work Sequence A 9 times, work Sequence B once; rep from * until 9 sts rem on front needle and 10 sts rem on back needle, then work Sequence A 9 times, removing st from back needle on Step 3 of last rep. Weave in ends. Talitha Kuomi talks, knits, and posts pics and
other daily bits at ww w.talithakuomi.com.
Extended Ridge
k on RS; p on WS
5
p on RS; k on WS 3
pattern repeat
1 10 st repeat
Grafting Key K
= Knitwise
P
= Purlwise
FN
= Front Needle
BN
= Back Needle = pattern repeat
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Grafting
Sequence A K
K
P
P
Sequence B
BN
FN
P
P
K
K
K
P
P
K
K
P
K
P
P
K
K
P
BN
BN
FN
9x
9x
FN
Try something NEW! knit
•
sew
•
b e a d
•
crochet
•
stitch
p.13
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k on RS, p on WS
sl 1, k2tog, psso—2 sts dec'd
p on RS, k on WS
sl 3 sts onto cn and hold in back, k3, k3 from cn
k2tog
sl 3 sts onto cn and hold in front, k3, k3 from cn
ssk
yo pattern repeat sl 1, k2tog, psso—2 sts dec'd
Cable and Lace 9
7
5
Quetzal
Jen Lucas
3
1
17 st repeat
page 36 The Fibre Company Canopy Fingering
Size 9" wide and 42¾" neck circumference after seaming Yarn The Fibre Company Canopy Fingering (50% baby alpaca, 30% merino, 20% viscose bamboo; 200 yd [183 m]/50 g): • #116 quetzal, 3 skeins Yarn distributed by Kelbourne Woolens Gauge 25 sts and 30 rows = 4" in charted patt (after blocking)
Tools • Size 3 (3.25 mm) needles • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
This cowl is worked back and forth in rows to form a long rectangle. The rectangle is then folded in half widthwise a nd one side
edge is seamed for 5". Block cowl to the size specified in the finishing instructions to fully open the pat-
tern stitch. After the cowl is completely dry, it will relax to the finished measurements above.
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CO 55 sts. Knit 3 rows, ending with a WS row. Work Rows 1–10 of Cable a nd Lace chart 38 times, then work Rows 1–7 of chart once more. Knit 3 rows. BO all sts.
Finishing
Weave in ends and block cowl to 10" wide and about 54" long (see Notes). When dry, fold cowl in half widthwise with WS tog so that CO and BO ends meet. Lay cowl on a table so that the CO and BO edges are at
the right, with the BO edge on top of the CO edge. Starting at CO/BO edges, whipstitch left side edges of cowl tog for 5". Weave in rem ends.
Jen Lucas has been designing just about as long as she’s been knitting. She is the author of the popular Sock-Yarn Shawls books (Martingale, 2013, 2015). Visit her website at www.jenlucasdesigns.com.
TAKE YOUR favorite issues
WITH YOU
knit
ssk
yo
purl
k2tog
sl 2 as if to k2tog, k1, p2sso—2 sts dec’d
p1tbl
p2tog
no stitch
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2 from cn sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2, sl last st from cn to left needle and purl it, k2 from cn sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, sl last st from cn to left needle and purl it, k2 from cn sl 3 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, [k1, ssk] from cn—1 st dec’d
Brenda Patipa
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, k2tog, k2 from cn—1 st dec’d pattern repeat
5
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in back, k2, k2tog from cn—1 st dec’d
Brim
Finial Hat
sl 2 sts onto cn, hold in front, [k2tog, k1] from left needle, k2 from cn—1 st dec’d
3
page 37
1
24 st repeat
Body 47
Berroco Ultra Alpaca
45
43
Size 18" brim circumference and 8½" tall Yarn Berroco Ultra Alpaca (50% alpaca,
41
50% wool; 215 yd [198 m]/100 g): • #6268 candied yam mix, 1 skein Gauge 22 sts and 28 rnds = 4" in Body patt on larger needle
39
37
35
Tools
33
• Size 7 (4.5 mm): 16" circular (cir) needle and set of double-pointed needles (dpn) • Size 5 (3.75 mm): 16" cir needle • Marker (m) • Cable needle (cn) • Tapestry needle
31
29
27
25
23
See knittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms 21
you don’t know.
19
Notes 17
This hat is worked in the round from the
bottom up.
15
13
Hat
11
With smaller cir needle, CO 96 sts. Place marker and join in the rnd. Next rnd *P1,
9
k2; rep from * to end. Work Rnds 1–5 of
7
Brim chart 2 times. Change to larger cir needle. Work Rnds 1–48 of Body chart,
5
changing to dpn when necessary—8 sts
3
rem. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail. With tail 1
threaded on a tapestry needle, draw tail 24 to 2 st repeat
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A fresh, modern take
on classic lace knitting!
Available Now InterweaveStore.com
Hotpoint
through rem sts and pull tightly to gather. Secure tail to WS.
MC
Finishing
3
pattern repeat
You can find more of Brenda Patipa’s work on Ravelry as beeeepatipaknits.
Lara Smoot
page 37
from back of heel to tip of toe; foot length is adjustable Yarn Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock (80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon; 430 yd [393 m]/100 g): • #1783 natural (MC), 1 skein • #6439 Naperville (blue; CC), 1 skein Gauge 34 sts and 46 rnds = 4" in St st
Tools • Size 1½ (2.5 mm) nee dles • Markers (m) • Stitch holder • Tapestry needle
See k nittingdaily.com/Glossary for terms you don’t know. Notes
These socks are worked in the round from the cuff down.
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Size 7½" foot circumference and 9" lo ng
1 21 st repeat
Cuff: With MC, CO 64 sts. Place marker (pm) and join in the rnd. Work in k1, p1 rib for 5 rnds. Next rnd *With MC, k1, with CC, p1; rep from * to end. Next rnd *With CC, k1, with MC, p1; rep from * t o end. Next rnd *With MC, k1, with CC, p1; rep from * t o end. With MC, work in k1, p1 rib for 5 rnds. Leg: Next rnd With MC, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog—63 sts rem. Work Rows 1–8 of Hotpoint chart 6 times, inc 1 st at end of rnd on last rnd—64 sts. Break MC. Place last 32 sts of rnd on holder. Heel flap: Note: Heel flap is worked back and forth over first 32 sts of rnd; last 32 sts of rnd will be worked later for instep. Row 1 (RS) With CC, *sl 1, k1; rep from * to end. Row 2 (WS) Sl 1, purl to end. Rep last 2 rows 14 more times, then work Row 1 once more. Turn heel: Short-row 1 (WS) Sl 1, p16, p2to g, p1, turn. Short-row 2 (RS) Sl 1, k3, ssk, k1, turn. Short-row 3 Sl 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn. Short-row 4 Sl 1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, turn. Rep last 2 short-rows 5 more times—18 sts
Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Sock
5
CC
Block to measurements. Weave in ends.
7
rem. Break CC. Shape gusset: Join MC. With RS facing, pick up and knit 16 sts along edge of heel flap, pm, k32 instep st s, pm, pick up and knit 16 sts along edge of heel flap, k9 heel sts—82 sts tota l. Pm and join in the rnd. Dec rnd Knit to 3 st s before m, k2tog, k1, sl m, knit to m, sl m, k1, ssk, knit to end—2 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every other rnd 8 more times—64 sts rem: 32 sts each for instep and sole. Foot: Work even until foot measu res 7¼" from back of heel, or 1¾" less tha n desired fi nished leng th. Break MC. Join CC. Toe: Dec rnd *Knit to 3 sts before m, k2tog, k1, sl m, k1, ssk; rep from * once more, knit to end—4 sts dec’d. Rep Dec rnd every other r nd 7 more times, then rep Dec rnd every rnd 4 times—16 sts rem. Knit to m; break yarn, leaving a 12" tai l.
Finishing
With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, graft sts using Kitchener st. Weave in ends. Block to measurements.
Lara Smoot can be found on Ravelry as SpinningLara and on her blog, www .sockknittinglara.blogspot.com.
Shop Often—Shop Your Local Retailer! Alaska
District of Columbia
Massachusetts
Knitty Stash the Alaskan Yarn Company—Homer
Looped Yarn Works —Washington, D.C.
Stitch House—Dorchester
www.Knittystash.com www.squareup.com/market/com muknitty-stash We carry yarns for knitting and crochet, roving for spinning and notions. Also the only commercially available 100% Alaskan Grown wool in the state and hand painted yarns. 3581 B Main St. (physical address) (907) 299-0601
www.loopedyarnworks.com A friendly, comfortable, and warm shop with a selection of beautiful yarns and notions. Great classes, workshops, knit-alongs, and knit nights. 1732 Connecticut Ave. NW #200 (202) 714-5667
The Rookery—Kodiak www.therookeryfibershop .blogspot.com Kindle your fiber fascination. We carry quality yarns, fabrics, threads, buttons and other fiber art supplies for the fiber enthusiast. 104 Center Ave., Suite 100B (907) 486-0052
Arizona Purl in the Pines, LLC—Flagstaff www.purlinthepines.com We are a full-service yarn shop catering to the fiber enthusiast. Knitters, crocheters, weavers and spinners – Fiber, Fun, Friends, and Food! 2544 N. 4th St. (928) 774-9334
California A Yarn Less Raveled—Danville www.ayarnlessraveled.com Everything you need for your knit/crochet projects– beautiful yarns, patterns, needles, notions, and support to make your project a success. Classes of all levels! 730 Camino Ramon, Suite 186 (925) 263-2661
Uncommon Threads—Los Altos www.uncommonthreadsyarn.com Beautiful yarns from around the world. 293 State St. (650) 941-1815
Once Around—Mill Valley www.oncearound.com The felting, stamping, embroidery, fabricpainting, wreath-making, embossing, scrapbooking, decoupage, candlecrafting, bookbinding, glitter, sewing, knitting and, more . . . ARTS and CRAFTS STORE. 352 Miller Ave. (415) 389-1667
Idaho Knit-n-Crochet—Coeur d’ Alene www.knit-n-crochet.com Friendly service and inviting atmosphere. Come in and see, or shop online, our large selection of yarn, needles, and accessories. 600 W. Kathleen Ave. #30 (208) 676-YARN (9276)
Alpaca Direct—Hayden www.AlpacaDirect.com Huge selection of luxury yarn, roving, and knitting supplies. Classes and support. 1016 W. Hayden Ave. (208) 209-7079 (888) 306-0111
Indiana Knitting Off Broadway —Fort Wayne www.knittingoffbroadway.com Located in a restored 1890’s building, this full-service yarn store specializes in unique and hard-to-find fibers. 1309 Broadway (260) 422-YARN
www.stitchhousedorchester.com Very cool place to buy yarn, learn to knit, sew, crochet, or have a party. 846 Dorchester Ave. (617) 265-8013
Hub Mills Yarn Store —North Billerica www.hubmillsstore.com An outlet for discontinued Classic Elite Yarns and a full-service yarn shop carrying many fine yarns. 16 Esquire Rd. Unit 2 (978) 408-2176
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Michigan Ewe-nique Knits—Royal Oak www.ewe-niqueknits.com Ewe-nique Knits, where unique knits are created. We cater to fiber lovers of all kinds offering a vast array of yarn & supplies. 515 S. Lafayette (248) 584-3001
New Hampshire Harrisville Designs Knitting and Weaving Center—Harrisville www.harrisville.com Yarns, Looms and Friendly Loom Products made by Harrisville Designs. Come visit our shop. We have our full product line on display, plus spinning equipment, fibers, yarns, books. Classes. 4 Mill Alley (603) 827-3996
New Jersey Lion Brand Yarn Outlet—Carlstadt
Maryland Knitters Nest—Eldersburg www.knittersnestyarnshop.com We are a locally owned shop with a wide selection of fine yarns & supplies. We offer knitting and crochet classes, and would love for you to drop in and join us. 1431 Liberty Road (410) 549-0709
www.LionBrand.com/outlet.html 50% off first quality discontinued colors and weekly surprise specials up to 75% off. 140 Kero Rd. (201) 939-0611
Patricia’s Yarns—Hoboken www.patriciasyarns.com Beautiful natural fiber yarn shop located a stone’s throw from Manhattan in the quaint Hudson River–front city of Hoboken. 107 4th St. (201) 217-YARN
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Shop Often—Shop Your Local Retailer! s g n i t s i L
Woolbearers—Mount Holly www.woolbearers.com Full-service knitting, spinning, weaving, and dyeing shop specializing in handpainted fiber and yarns, spinning, and weaving equipment. 90 High St. (609) 914-0003
p FiberArts Café—Millville o www.fiberartscafe.com FiberArts Café, yarns, tools, publica h tions, classes & workshops. Group S gather Wed 1-7 p.m. Open Tuesday– n r a Y
Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday noon to 6 p.m. 501 N. High Street, Suite L (856) 669-1131
Knotty Lady Yarns LLC —Roseburg
Texas
www.KnottyLadyYarns.com The premier location for your fiber needs in Western Oregon. The best stocked, fairest prices & most comprehensive teaching facility. 642 S.E. Jackson Street (541) 673-2199
WC Mercantile—Navasota
Pennsylvania
Utah
Gosh Yarn It!—Kingston
Wasatch and Wool Yarns —Park City
www.goshyarnitshop.com A beautiful yarn boutique in Northeastern PA. Visit us for fine yarn, patterns, notions, and knitting & crochet classes. 303 Market St. (570) 287-9999
New Mexico Natural Stitches—Pittsburgh The Yarn Store at Nob Hill —Albuquerque www.theyarnstoreatnobhill.com Join us for Open Knitting anytime during store hours! Quality yarns, tools, books, accessories, and unique local items. 120 Amherst Dr. NE (505) 717-1535
www.naturalstitches.com Best selection of natural fibers in Pittsburgh. Knowledgeable staff. Open 7 days. Evenings, too! 6401 Penn Ave. (412) 441-4410
Tennessee
New York
Smoky Mountain Spinnery —Gatlinburg
Yarn Culture—Fairport
www.smokymountainspinnery.com Come shop in our comfortable surroundings. Everything for spinning, weaving, knitting, crocheting, and needlefelting. Antiques and gifts, too. 466 Brookside Village Wy., Ste. 8 (865) 436-9080
www.yarnculture.com Artisan yarn from around the world including Rosy Green Wool, The Uncommon Thread, Eden Cottage Yarns, Woolfolk and more. 1387 Fairport Road, Suite 885 (585) 678-4894
www.wcmercantile.com “The BEST little Wool shop in Texas!” Featuring natural fibers for knitting and spinning. Lots of local Texas yarns, too! 201 E. Washington Ave. (936) 825-3378
www.wasatchandwool.com An intimate, boutique experience for locals and visitors who are knitting and fiber enthusiasts. We specialize in high quality yarns from around the world. 1635 West Redstone Center Dr. G130 (435) 575-0999
Vermont Northeast Fiber Arts Center —Williston www.northeastfiberarts.com The candy store for knitters, felters and spinners. Featuring natural fibers, handpainted & Vermont raised yarns! Plus we stock gobs of felting fibers, needle felting kits, looms, wheels & offer oodles of inspiration. 7531 Williston Road (802) 288-8081
Lion Brand Yarn Studio—New York www.lionbrandyarnstudio.com Wide selection of Lion Brand yarns, free knit and crochet demo nstrations, classes, and special events. 34 W. 15th St. (212) 243-9070
Oregon Knot Another Hat—Hood River www.knotanotherhat.com Your source for everything hip and knit–worthy! Find fine yarns, needles, accessories, gifts, and more! 16 Oak St., Ste. 202 (541) 308-0002
Knotty Lady Yarns, located in beautiful downtown Roseburg, is a good example. ”We have had a lot of new customers stop by and mention that they saw the listing in one of the Interweave knitting or crochet magazines. You should give it a try!” —(Kelley, Knotty Lady Yarns shop owner, www.knottyladyyarns.com)
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Shop Often—Shop Your Local Retailer! Virginia
Debbie Macomber’s A Good Yarn Shop—Port Orchard
fibre space —Alexandria
www.agoodyarnshop.com We carry a wide range of yarn, books, notions, and offer classes for all levels of knitting and crochet. 1140 Bethel Ave., Suite 101 (360) 876-0377
TM
www.fibrespace.com Visit our retro styled shop in historic Alexandria, VA. 1219 King St. (703) 664-0344
The Web Connection Online Store Abundant Yarn Online www.abundant-yarn.com (866) 873-0580 100 luscious yarn lines User friendly website and service. Try us!
Yarn Cloud—Occoquan “where nature meets imagination” www.yarncloud.com Yarn Cloud specializes in yummy knitting, crochet & tatting yarns, notions and classes. NEW LOCATION! 204 Washington St. (703) 763-3285
Paradise Fibers—Spokane
The Yarn Club, Inc. —Virginia Beach
Wisconsin
www.yarnclubknits.com An extravagant selection of hand dyed yarns and fibers for your knitting, crochet, and spinning delights. 240 Mustang Trail, Suite 8 (757) 486-5648 (KNIT)
The Dragonfly Yarn Shop —Janesville
www.paradisefibers.net Terrific selection of wool yarn, knitting needles, wheels, and looms. Order online or stop in. Same-day shipping! 225 W. Indiana Ave. (509) 536-7746
Shops/Mail Order Woobee KnitShop www.woobeeknitshop.net (307) 760-2092 Products include Brown Sheep, Waverly, Jean Greenhowe, Addi, and Skacel.
Washington
www.stonebarnfibers.com (815) 968-1735
[email protected] An ever changing kaleidoscope of unique colors.
NW Handspun Yarns—Bellingham
Classifieds
Lanaknits Designs Hemp for Knitting
S h o p L si t in g s
Yarns
www.dragonflyyarnshop.com Wool and luxury fibers. Addi and Crystal Palace needles. Lessons by the hour. Home of the Pirouette! 1327 N. Wright Rd., Ste. 5A (608) 757-9228
www.NWHandspunYarns.com Quality yarns, books, equipment, supplies for the knitter, spinner, and weaver. Classes and gifts. Open Tuesday–Sunday. 1401 Commercial St. (360) 738-0167
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Gypsy Girl Creations
Yarns
WWW.WOOL2DYE4.COM Exclusive line of undyed yarns for hand-dyers. Make your work stand out! Wholesale inquiries welcome.
[email protected].
www.hempforknitting.com (888) 301-0011 Providing luxury hemp and hemp blend yarns & lots of designer patterns.
Wool2Dye4 www.Wool2Dye4.com
[email protected] Exclusive line of undyed yarns for hand-dye artists.
advertisers’ index Blue Sky Alp acas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Interweave
Oomingmak, Musk Ox Producers . . 67
Brown Sheep Company . . . . . . . . . . 23
31, 49, 57, 61, 63, 65, 67, 69, 79, 81,
Pigeonroof Studios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Cascade Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5 , 11
87, 89, 91, C3
Plymouth Yarn Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Classic Elite Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Jimmy Beans Wool . . . . . . . . .9, Inser t
Skacel Collection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Coats & Clark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C2
Kelbourne Woolens (The Fibre Co) . 21
Strauch Fiber Equipment Co . . . . . . 67
Della Q . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Knitters Pride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Tunney Wool Company/O-Woo l . . . 63
Denise Interchangeable
Lion Brand Yarn Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Westing Bridge LLC/ChiaoGoo . . . . 59
Knitting & Crochet . . . . . . . . . . . 21
LoveKnitting.com. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C4
Wool 2 Dye 4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Green Mountain Spinnery . . . . . . . . 63
Lyn Harris Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Yarn Barn of Kansas. . . . . . . . . . . . . 63
Halcyon Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21
Mango Moon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
Yarn Valet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Harrisville Designs Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Miss Babs: Hand Dyed Fiber Goods 67
YarnBox . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59
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>>>> blogspotting
Photos by Heidi Gustad
crafts in general, but in the past two years as I’ve begun designing more and more, Hands Occupied has evolved into a blog that focuses primarily on knitting, crochet, and yarn crafts.
my background in informal learning is why I love “giving it away for free,” so to speak. I think it’s rad when I get feedback from readers who say they started knitting after watching my Knewbies video tutorial series. Sometimes when readers have questions they take to the Ravelry group or a post’s comment section to share tips a nd ideas for success with different projects.
Q
Q
Q
How long have you been blogging?
A Five years. At �rst I blogged about
What inspired you to start a blog?
A Because I’m obviously ins ane,
Heidi Gustad is blogging up a storm on her website, Hands Occupied. From posting great tutorials and knitting patterns to cohosting the new knitting YouTube show, YarnTalk, Heidi’s constantly contributing to the knitting world. Read on for more from Heidi and visit her website at www.handsoccupied.com. 96
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I started blogging during one of the busiest times in my li fe. I was twentythree. I had a ful l-time job, was working on my library degree full time, and I was planning my wedding. I think I started Hands Occupied for a few reasons: I really wanted to learn photography and Web design, but I also wanted something to motivate me to keep actively creating with my hands, despite the busy schedule. When you’re knitting, even if it’s from the hollow your butt has created in the sofa, you’re off the computer and connecting with something real.
Q
What types of projects do you like to knit and bl og?
A From day one as a blogger, I’ve been a tutorial gal. Step-by-step tutorials and videos are where it’s at. By day I'm a librarian, and I work with teens. I think
Which post has been your favorite to write so far?
A I love a good knit-along. So I guess my favorite posts (plural) are the knitalongs I’ve done. They’re a chance to dig deeper in a series of tutorials, more so than I’d be able to in a one-off tutorial or free pattern post.
Q
Name one blog you love to read and share why you love it.
A I'm going to have to go with Fla x & Twine (www.�axandtwine.com). Anne is a knitter who blogs about general crafts as well. She has incredible photography and a super-strong aesthetic that comes across so beautifully in every post she publishes. I love Anne’s work! Connect with Heidi online @handsoccupied on Twitter, Ravelry, and Instagram.
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CLASSIC TECHNIQUE ���� ������ is one of the simplest and most versatile knitting techniques, but it’s often overlooked. Te Art of Slip-Stitch Knitting is a modern and thorough take on this technique that delivers beautiful colorwork and gorgeous textures—with minimal effort. Sixteen original projects for cardigans, pullovers, hats, bags, scarves, and more showcase the versatility of slip stitch by using it as an allover pattern or accent. Whether you’re new to this exciting stitch or looking to go beyond the basics, Te Art of SlipStitch Knitting is your new essential guide. AVAILABLE NOW AT INTERWEAVESTORE.COM
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