F
R O
M
SaiNT HiLDeGaRD’S KITCHEN
F o o d s O F H e a l t h F o o d s O F J o y J A N Y F O U R N I E R - R O S S E T Translated by Victoria Hébert and Denis Sabourin
Liguori, Missouri
Published by Liguori Publications Liguori, Missouri 63057-9999 To order, call 800-325-9521 www.liguori.org Important Notice: This book is intended as an informational reference, not as a medical guide. Any plant, whether used as food or medicine, can cause an allergic reaction in some people. Do not take any unknown substances during pregnancy without consulting a physician. This guide is not intended as a substitute for medical treatment. The author and the publisher expressly disclaim any responsibility or liability in connection with the use of this book. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Fournier-Rosset, Jany. [Recettes de la joie avec Sainte Hildegard. English] From Saint Hildegard’s kitchen : foods of health, foods of joy / Jany FournierRosset ; translated by Victoria Hébert and Denis Sabourin. — 1st U.S. ed. p. cm. Includes index. ISBN 978-0-7648-1951-3 1. Nutrition. 2. Natural foods. 3. Health. 4. Hildegard, Saint, 1098–1179. I. Title. RA784.F65213 1999 641.5.’63—dc21 99–23315 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means—electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or any other—except for brief quotations in printed reviews, without the prior permission of the publisher. English translation copyright © 1999, 2010 by Liguori Publications Printed in the United States of America First published in France as Les recettes de la joie avec sainte Hildegarde by Éditions Téqui, Paris, France. 13 12 11 10 4 3 2 1 Second U.S. Edition
CONTENTS
Introduction * 7 Basic Ingredients * 15 Foods That Bring Joy 17
Herbs, Spices, and Condiments * 25 Herbs That Bring Joy 27 Spices That Bring Joy 34 Other Foods, Herbs, and Spices in Hildegard’s Kitchen and Apothecary 37
Beverages * 47 Elixirs and Tonics 49 Wines 56 Coffee and Herbal Teas 62
Saint Hildegard’s Own Special Recipes * 63 Breakfast * 69 Salads * 75 Soups * 83 Cereals and Cereal Grains * 97 Bread-Making With Spelt 101
Pasta * 105 Meat and Poultry * 109 Fish * 123 Eggs and Egg Dishes * 131 Vegetables * 135 Sauces, Dips, Vinaigrettes, and Roux * 155 Spice Mixtures * 161 Desserts * 165 Syrups and Liqueurs * 191 Jams and Jellies * 199 Table Graces From Saint Benedict and Others * 207 Glossary and Measurements * 211 Tips 211 Cooking Terms Used 211 Conversions and Equivalents 214
Sources for Ingredients * 217 Index * 219
I N T R O D U C T I O N ow wonderful it is to discover the secret of joy in the enlightened revelations of a twelfth-century Benedictine Abbess! Nine hundred years ago, in the Middle Ages, Hildegard of Bingen was granted, by means of heavenly visions, precious knowledge about human nutrition: while the “foods of sadness” sap our health and vitality, the “foods of joy” revitalize us and help preserve good health in every sphere: physical, spiritual, and psychological. How can a simple dietary regimen succeed in preventing illness and producing radiant health? It does so by eliminating the foods that result in the “black bile” of sadness, as Saint Hildegard calls it, and eating those that prevent its accumulation. On the other hand, foods of joy chase sadness away and bring happiness and balm to our hearts. The author, Jany Fournier-Rosset, is a lay oblate of Saint Benedict, married, a mother, and well known for her talents as an accomplished chef. She offers us an original selection of healthy and flavorful recipes, based upon the writings and teachings of Saint Hildegard.
H
S AINT H ILDEGARD : A S HORT B IOGRAPHY Born in 1098 in Bockelheim, Germany, of noble parents, Hildegard was the youngest of ten children. As custom dictated, she was dedicated to God at the age of eight. Her training and education
7
Introduction
Be VeR aGeS
Beverages in Saint Hildegard’s monastery were probably limited to water, milk (from cows, goats, and sheep), wine, and beer. Drinks, as well as foods, were thought to have both medicinal and culinary uses, as do the elixirs, tonics, and soothers given in this section. Wines and wine vinegars were other essentials in Saint Hildegard’s array of curative potions. Sometimes the wine was infused with ashes, cooked with herbs, spiced, used to temper unhealthful aspects of plants, or infused with honey and herbs. This section also contains some of Hildegard’s wine-based remedies. Recommendations for herbal teas and a coffee substitute are also included here.
St. Hildegard of Bingen believed that all should drink with health in mind. She considered beer, spelt, coffee, fruit juice thinned with mountain spring water, fennel, rose hip or sage teas, wine, and goat milk, all acceptable drinks.
Elixirs and Tonics LAVENDER ELIXIR 2/3 cup fresh lavender flowers 3 quarts white or red wine 1 2/3 cups honey
When the lavender is freshly harvested, crush the flowers and pass through a sieve. Cook the wine with the honey at medium temperature; add to this the crushed lavender until the taste of the lavender permeates the mixture. Strain the mixture. Then, every three days (not daily), drink this lukewarm liquid. It may help alleviate pain in the liver and in the lungs. According to Hildegard, lavender wine will provide a person with pure knowledge and a clear understanding. Elixirs are healing remedies; they address situ ations of imbalance and symptoms of illness.
ELIXIR FOR THE STOMACH 1 part fresh or powdered ginger 1/2 part thyme leaf 2 parts fresh or powdered galingale wine
Make a mixture using the proportions given above. Take 2 to 4 pinches of this mixture and add it to 1/2 glass of wine, sweetened or unsweetened. Take this elixir before going to bed for a period of 2 to 4 months.
49
Beverages
SouPS
Without a doubt, soups or potages were a dietary mainstay during Saint Hildegard’s time. Here are soups featuring the traditional vegetables and seasonings. A special feature of this section is the addition of cereal grains, such as pearl barley or rice, to soups. They cook quickly and give the soup a rich consistency and better presentation. By adding cereal grains, you will also have a more nourishing dish which is easily digested. It is also possible to incorporate either spelt or oat flakes, depending upon your personal taste or preference. Cereal flakes are the product of grain preparation by which the grain is passed through metal rollers to flatten it after which it is cut into smaller flakes. Flaked cereal grains are also sometimes called rolled.
“The soul is a breath of living spirit, that with excellent sensitivity, permeates the entire body to give it life. Just so, the breath of the air makes the earth fruitful. Thus the air is the soul of the earth, moistening it, greening it.”
St. Hildegard of Bingen
HERBED CROUTONS 8 slices French or hearty whole-grain bread 2 tbsps vegetable oil 1 tbsp garlic salt, or more to taste 1/4 tsp pepper 1 tbsp dried parsley 1 tsp dried oregano 1 tsp dried basil pinch ground thyme 1/4 tsp paprika 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated
Brush each side of the bread with vegetable oil, and cut the slices into cubes. Spread the cubes in a single layer on a baking sheet lightly coated with vegetable oil. Sprinkle with the garlic salt and pepper. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes in a 350° F oven until toasted. In the meantime, combine basil, parsley, oregano, thyme, paprika, and Parmesan in a small bowl. Sprinkle on the toasted croutons and return to oven for 2 or 3 minutes. Cool on a rack or on paper towels.
CREAMY ZUCCHINI SOUP 2 lbs zucchini, unpeeled and thickly sliced 3 tbsps oil 4 cups water 1 tbsp heavy cream mint leaves for garnish galingale, salt, pepper to taste
Sauté the zucchini slices in the oil. Season with the galingale, salt, and pepper. Add the water and cook for about 15 minutes. Purée the mixture in a blender or food processor. Return to pot and heat gently. When ready to serve, add the cream and garnish with the mint leaves.
85
Soups
I N D E X
A gar, about 143
almonds about 20 recipes with 119, 129, 172–173, 187 anise recipes with 90, 163, 176 angelica about 37 angelica ice cream 181 crystallized 37 apples about 38 recipes with apple cake 178–179 baked 189 Indian-style apples 188 oat or spelt muesli 71 artichoke cups with green peas 143
Bain-marie
211
basil about 38 recipes with 107 beans recipes with 89, 91, 96, 142, 147, beef with cream sauce, filet of 111 blanching 211 bouquet garni 211 Benedict, Saint 12
Bernard of Clairvaux, Saint 9 berries blackberry 202 elderberry 206 gooseberry 203 juniper 42 laurel 43 beverages 47–63 bread, spelt 103 breakfast 69–73 butter, garlic nut 73
Cakes
apple cake 178–179 cinnamon coffee 73 herb cake 144 jelly roll 180 maursois nut cake 176 nut cake 176 pear cake 177 raisin rum cake 169 spelt cakes with coriander 133 spice loaf 168 thousand vegetable cake 146 zucchini cake 178 caramelize 212 carrots recipes with braised 138 mixed vegetables 138
219
Saint Hildegard’s cousinat soup 86 spelt etouffée 100 spelt soup 89 terrine 152 celery 38 cereal grains 17, 69, 83, 97 cereals cream of spelt 71 granola 72 muesli 71 chamomile, German about 27 recipe with 55 chervil 39 chestnuts about 20, 88 recipes with braised 137 chestnut crêpes 167 chestnut flan 175 chestnut ice cream 181 chestnut jam 201 chestnut pudding, chilled 174 chestnut purée 167 chestnut soufflé 183 chestnut soup 88 chocolate chestnut balls 173 olive chestnut loaf 137 chicken recipes with almond chicken 119
chicken breast strips with rosemary 113 chicken brochettes 112 chicken in wine 113 coconut chicken soup 103 crêpes stuffed with chicken 114 rosemary chicken 120 salad 78 scallops of chicken 115 stewed chicken 121 chickpeas about 39 recipes with 100, 149 cinnamon 34 clary sage about 33 elixer 50 cloves 35 cooking vessels, metal, use of 14 coffee, substitute 62 coffee cake spelt cinnamon 73 cookies almond cookies 172 almond crunchies 172 anti-nausea 67 cookies that bring joy 65 ginger 66 laxative 66 lavender-almond sweetmeats 173 no-bake chocolate chestnut balls 173 three-ginger 171 court-bouillon about 212 recipe for 125 Cornish game hens, roasted 117 cream cheese, homemade 175 crème pâtissière 169 crêpes batter 187 crêpes stuffed with chicken 114
220
Index
crêpes stuffed with swiss chard 151 croutons, herbed 85 cumin about 34 recipes with 67, 78, 89, 90-92, 100, 107, 114, 116, 127, 133, 137, 140-142, 145, 146, 149, 151, 154 curry seasoning recipes for 145, 163–164 recipes with 95, 105, 154
plum pudding 187 pumpkin marmalade 184 quince pie 189 raisin rum cake 169 spice loaf 168 stewed medlar fruit 169 stewed figs in wine 174 three-ginger cookies 171 zucchini cake 178 dill 27 dips 157 dittany 39
Dandelions
Eating with wisdom
about 39 recipes with 77, 206 decoction 212 desserts 165–190 almond crunchies 172 almond cookies 172 almond meringues 187 angelica ice cream 181 apple cake 178–179 baked apples 189 caramel semolina 182 chestnut crêpes 167 chestnut ice cream 181 chestnut flan 175 chestnut pudding, chilled 174 chestnut purée 167 chestnut soufflé 183 cream cheese, homemade 175 crème pâtissière 169 crêpes 187 eggs in a cloud with caramel sauce 185 English cream 182 fig pie 168 jelly roll 180 lavender-almond sweetmeats 173 maursois nut cake 176 no-bake chocolate chestnut balls 173 nut cake 176 pear cake 177 pears stewed in wine 188
of the body 23–24 egg dishes 131–134 eggs in a cloud with caramel sauce 185 English cream 82 French piperade 148 herb cake 144 nettle cake 144 nettle omelette 134 poached eggs 133 spelt cake with coriander 133 electuary, galingale 68 elixirs 49 clary 50 hart’s-tongue 51 lavender 58 revitalizing 53 stomach 56-58, 60 elixirs, tonics 59–65 English cream 182 etouffée 212
Fats and oils,
use of 19 fennel about 18 recipes with Arnaud’s fennel au gratin 145 fennel in coconut milk 141 fennel in white wine 142
fennel soufflé 153 fennel soup 90 fennel terrine 81 thousand vegetable cake 147 ferns fiddleheads 79 hart’s-tongue 33, 62 figs in jam 203 in pie 168 stewed in wine 174 fines herbes 212 fish about 21 recipes with 127–139 filet of perch with blue cheese 127 monkfish, American style 128 perch with bay leaves 126 trout amandine 129 trout in papillote 130 trout in white wine 129 flan chestnut 175 nettle 143 flaxseed syrup 198 flowers 38-46 recipes with dandelions 77 hellebore (Christmas rose) 56 herb and flower salad 77 lavender 49, 173 violets 52 food choices and diet 10, 12, 13, 22 foods that bring joy 17 fruits about 14 apples 38 peaches 44 pears 45 recipes with 56, 59, 71, 72, 78, 168, 178, 189, 203–205
Galingale
about 35 recipes with 49, 52–53, 57, 68, 79, 82, 85, 86, 89, 92, 93, 94, 157-159, 188 garlic 41 gentian 41 recipe with 57 gilding 212 glaze 212 gnocchi, Italian 108 granola 72
Hart’s-tongue ferns 51
hazel 41 hellebore 42 herbs dried, use of 211 about anise 39 bay leaves (laurel) 58 chamomile, German 27 dill 27 dittany 39 gentian 41 hyssop 28, 42 lavender 43 lungwort 43 mint 29–30 mouse-ear 44,, 63 parsley 30 plaintain 45 psyllium 31 sage 32 savory 45 Hildegard ideas on health and healing 7-14 17–47, 69, 75, 156 life and spirituality 7–14 Hippocrates 10, 28 humors, four 10–11 hypocras 194 hyssop about 28, 42 recipes with 114, 118, 120, 138, 149
Ice cream 181 Jams and jellies
200-206
about 199 recipes for blackberry jelly 202 chestnut jam 201 dandelion jelly 206 elderberry jelly 206 fig jam 203 gooseberry jelly 203 milk jam 201 onion jam 204 quince jelly 205 rose hip jam 202 walnut jam 204 juniper 42
Lamb
loin of 112 spring stew with 118 laurel about 43 recipes with 58 lavender about 43 recipes with 49, 54, 58 lemon balm soother 53 lemons 56 licorice about 32 recipes with 52, 66, 167, 174, 175, 177-178, 188-189 liqueurs 191–197 liqueur of love 193 nut liqueur 196 peach-leaf liqueur 197 quince liqueur 195 sage liqueur 197 Saint Clement’s cordial 193 lungwort (pulmonaria) about 43 recipes with 60
Index
221
Marinade, marinate 213 Mary, Blessed Virgin 12 mayonnaise 158 measurements and equivalents 214-216 meats about 21 recipes with 111–122, 126, 128, 132 mints about 29–30 recipes with 50, 54-55, 58-59 types of field mint 29 pouliot mint 30 water mint 30 mouse-ear 53 muesli, oat or spelt 71 muffins, spelt 104 mugwort 54
Nettle, stinging
about 19 recipes with 134, 143, 144 noodles with vegetables 107 nuts about 20 almonds 20 chestnuts 21 hazelnuts 41 recipes with 71-72, 100, 196
Oats
17 omelette French piperade 148 nettle 134 onions recipes with onion jam 204 onion soup, creamy 100 oregano 53, 44, 68, 85 orgeat syrup 186
222
Index
Parsley
about 30 recipes with 60 pasta 117–118 pastry cream 170 peach leaves 59 peaches 44 pears about 45 recipes with pear cake 177 pears stewed in wine 188 pepper 36 Physica, Hildegard’s 13 pie fig 168 quince 189 plantain about 45 recipes with 93 poultice 18 poultry recipes with 122–125, 127, 129–131 puddings 174, 187 pumpkin recipes with 95, 151, 184
Q uiche
pumpkin 151 spinach 150
R atatouille
152
roux about 213 recipe for 159
Sage
32 recipes with 61 salads 75–80 cauliflower terrine 79 dandelion salad 77 dandelions in vinegar 77 fiddlehead fern salad 79
herb and flower salad 77 salad niçoise with spelt 80 spelt salad with chickpeas and green beans 100 sauces 159-160 béchamel 160 for cucumbers 159 green sauces for fish 161 mayonnaise 158 roux 159 sour cream 158 vinaigrette 159 savory 45 scallops chicken 115 veal 116 Scivias, Hildegard’s 8 seeds aniseeds 38 fenugreek 40 psyllium 31 soothers lemon balm 53 soufflés chestnut 183 Chinese squash 154 fennel 153 soups bean soup 91 chestnut soup 88 cream of celeriac 87 cream of tomato 86 creamy harvest soup 94 herb soup, simple 95 Hildegard’s cousinat soup 86 peasant soup, country-style 92 pumpkin 95 spelt soup with carrots, turnips, & Swiss chard 89 zucchini 85 sour cream 158 sources for ingredients 217–218 spaghetti with basil 110
spelt about 98-99 cooking of spelt grains 99 recipes with 62, 65, 66, 67, 71-73, 80, 89-92, 94, 97, 99, 100-103, 113, 118, 121-122, 128-129, 133, 137, 140-142, 144, 146 spices cinnamon 34 cloves 35 cumin 34 fenugreek 40 galingale 35 juniper 42 licorice 32 nutmeg 36 pepper 36 spinach quiche 150 squash soufflé 154 Swiss chard crêpes with 141 loaf 147 syrup, flaxseed 198
Table graces 207-209
teas herbal 62 mint tisane 55 sedative 55 temperature conversions 214-216 terrines carrot 152 cauliflower 79 fennel 81 poultry liver 82 tisane 55 tonics booster 54 warming 54
tortillas 104 turnips about 56 with mixed vegetables 138
Veal
recipes with 116, 119 vegetables 135–154 about chestnuts 2, 20, 88 fennel 18 nettles 19 recipes with 135–154 artichoke cups with green peas 143 carrot terrine 152 cauliflower terrine 79 celeriac soup 87 chestnut soup 88 Chinese squash soufflé 154 chickpeas with vegetables 149 crêpes stuffed with Swiss chard 141 fennel in coconut milk 141 fennel in white wine 142 fennel soufflé 153 fennel soup 90 fennel terrine 81 French piperade 148 green peas and beans 147 herb cake 144 nettle cake 144 onion soup 90 pumpkin quiche 151 ratatouille, Tunisian 152
sautéed vegetables 150 spelt soup 89 spinach quiche 150 spring beans 142 Swiss chard loaf 147 thousand vegetable cake 146 tomato soup 86 zucchini soup 85 venison, sautéed 122 vinaigrettes, for salad 159 violets about 46 recipes with 52 viriditas 11–12 Von Spannheim, Mother Jutta 8–9
Watercress
46 wine, in beverages 49-53, 56-61, 194-195, 197 winter restorative 54
Y east, homemade 101 Zest, of citrus fruit
21
zucchini cake 178 grilled 139 soup 85, 94 with spelt 140
Index
223
