Flat Pattern Making

FLATPATTERN MAKI NG

Prof.Dr.S.Kathirrvelu EiTEX, BDU, Ethiopia. 1

F la t P a tt e r n M a k in g

PATTERN MAKI NG 

Pa t t e r n ma ki ng i sa n ar t .I ti st he ar to f mani pul at i ng

and

s hapi ng a flatpi e c eo f f abr i ct oc o nf o r mt oo ne o r mo r ec ur v e so ft he


huma manfigur e. 

Pa t t e r n ma ki ng i sa br i dg ef unc t i o n be t we e n de s i g nandpr o duc t i o n.

2

PATTERN MAKI NG 

Pa t t e r n ma ki ng i sa n ar t .I ti st he ar to f mani pul at i ng

and

s hapi ng a flatpi e c eo f f abr i ct oc o nf o r mt oo ne o r mo r ec ur v e so ft he


huma manfigur e. 

Pa t t e r n ma ki ng i sa br i dg ef unc t i o n be t we e n de s i g nandpr o duc t i o n.

2

PATTERN MAKI NG  A s ke t c hc anbe t ur ne di nt oag ar me nt v i aapat t e r nwhi c h i nt e r pr e t st hede s i gn i nt hef o r mo ft he gar me ntc o mponent s ( Co okl i n) . 


No w aday ’ s s o phi s t i c a t e ds o f t war e pr o gr ams msar eus e d f o rpat t e r nmaki ng . 3

BASI CS OF PATTERN MA M AKI NG

 A pat t e r ni s flatwhi l et he bo dy i s

no t .Theb o dyha she i g ht ,wi dt ha nd de pt h. 

Dar t s ar et he bas i so fal lpat t e r n maki ng .The yc o nv e r tt hefla tp i e c eo f c l o t hi nt oat hr e edi me ns i o nalf o r m, m, whi c hfit st hebul g e so ft heb o dy .


 A pat t e r nmake rt ypi c al l y make sa

pa t t e r n f r o m a fla ts k e t c h wi t h meas ur eme ment sorat wodi mens i onal f as hi o ni l l us t r a t i o n.

4

BASI CSOFPATTERN RN MAKI KI NG 

Thebas i cpat t e r ni st hev e r y f oundat i on

upon

whi c h

pat t er n maki ng, fit and de s i gnar ebas e d. 

The bas i c pat t e r n i s t he s t ar t i ngpo i ntf o rflatpat t e r n de s i gni ng.




I ti sas i mpl epat t e r nt hatfit s t he b o dy wi t hj us te no ug h e as e f o r mo ve me nt and c omf mf or t( Shobe nandWar d) .

5

HI STORYOF PATTERN MAKI NG 

Pr i o rt ot he I ndus t r i al Re v ol ut i o n t he ar to f pat t e r nmaki ngwashi g hl yr e v e r e d.



Tai l o r s me t i c ul o us l y wo r ke d wi t ht he i rc l i e nt ' s pe r s o na lme a s ur e me nt st oc us t o mi z ep at t e r ns



Cl o t hi ng made b yt ai l o r s was e l abo r at e and r e l e gat e do nl yt ot heve r yr i c h.


6


Wi t ht heo ns e to ft heI ndus t r i alRe v o l ut i o n, s t andar di z e dpat t e r nswe r ee s s e nt i alt ot he s uc c e s sofr e ady t o we arc l o t hi ng.



I ni t i alat t e mpt st oc r e at es t andar di z e dpat t e r ns r e s ul t e di npo o r l yfit t i nggar me nt swi t hl i t t l e de t ai l .



Af t e rl e ng t hye x pe r i me nt at i o nands t andar di z e d s i z i ng ,pa t t e r nma ki ngma deat r i umpha nt t r ans f o r mat i o nf r o mc us t o mi z a t i o nt o s t andar di z at i o n.


7


Co mput er s hav e be e n us ed by appar e lc o mpani e s s i nc et hee ar l y1980' s .




Pat t e r n Des i gn Sys t ems ( PDS) hav e be c o me i nv al uabl et o o l st ot he pat t e r nmake r ,as s i s t i ng i n muc h o f t he r e pe t i t i v e t as ks as s o c i at e d wi t h pa t t e r nma ki ng .



PDS s y s t e ms ar ec apabl eo fs t o r i ng an i nc r e di bl e amo unto fdat at hatc anbequi c kl yr e t r i e v e d,t we ake d andr e fil e d.

8


9


Us i ngamo us eo rs t y l us ,pat t e r nmake r sar ea bl e t os wi f t l yadds t y l ede t ai l sa ndmakec hange s .



The r ea r ema nyb e ne fit st oPDS-s pe e d,a c c ur a c y ande a s eo fdat at r ans mi s s i o nbe i ngs o meo ft he mo s to bvi o us .




I n t o da y' sc o mpe t i t i v ee nvi r o nme nt ,s o f t war e c o mpani e s ar e z e r o i ng i n o n t he g r o wi ng de ma ndso ft hea ppa r e lma nuf a c t ur e r . 1 0


Cur r e nt r e s e ar c h f o c us e s o n g e ne r at i ng pat t e r nst hatpr o duc ebe t t e rfit t i ngg ar me nt s and 3D vi s ual i z at i o nt o o l st o he l p fine t une s t y l e .



Wi t h o n g o i ng t e c hno l o g i c al adv anc e sand


di l i g e nt r e s e ar c h, pat t e r nmaki ng s o f t war e c o mpani e sc o nt i nuet os uc c e s s f ul l yaddr e s st he ne e dso ft he i rc us t o me r s . 1 1


1 2


1 3


1 4

METHODSOFPATTERN MAKI NG



Pat t e r nma ki ngi nv o l v e st hr e eme t ho ds -

3.

1 .

Dr af t i ng

2.

Dr api ng


Fl a tpa t t e r nma ki ng

1 5



FLATPATTERN MAKI NG

Ther i g htfiti ske yt og ai ni ngc o ns ume rc o nfide nc e andl o y al t y .



Onc eabr and’ st ar g e tfithasbe e nde fine d,i tmus t F be wi e l de di nt e l l i ge nt l yt o mai nt ai n ac o mpe t i t i v e advantage.



la t P a tt e r n M a k in g

Fl atpat t e r nmaki ng,whe ndo nec o r r e c t l y ,pr o v i de s t hec o det ot hi si nt e gr alpar to fabr and’ sDNA and he l ps e ns ur e c o mpe t i t i v e ne s s i n a c hal l e ngi ng mar ke tpl ac e .

1 6

FLATPATTERN MAKI NG  A s l o pe ri s a pat t e r nt hat has no s e am

al l o wanc e so rs t y l el i ne s . 

Fr o m as l o pe ra my r i ad o fg ar me nts t y l e s c anbeg e ne r at e d.




The pat t e r nmake rc r e a t e sa ne ws t y l eb y addi ng de s i gn de t ai l ss uc h as a c o l l ar , po c ke tandpl e at s . 1 7


1 8


1 9

DESI GNI NG APPAREL THROUGH THE FLAT PATTERN 

Ther a pi do ut puto fne w fla t pat t e r nde s i gns ,f ac i l i t at e db y s l o pe r s ,i saus e f uls ki l lf o rany f as hi o nde s i gne r .



Fl atpa t t e r nc anbeus easa me anso fde v e l o pi ngo r i g i nal i de ase ffe c t i v e l yande ffic i e nt l y .



Fl atpat t e r ni sus eo ft het hr e e bas i cs l o pe r s



wai s t ,



s l e e veands ki r t



ands o mepo pul arv a r i at i o nso f t he s es uc hast heki mo nowa i s t , r ag l ans l e e v e sandpant s .


2 0

THE FLATPATTERN METHOD 

The flatpat t e r n me t ho d us e st we l v eb as i cpat t e r n s l o pe r st hatar emani pul at e db yt hepat t e r nmake rt o ac hi e v eade s i r e ds t y l eo rde s i gn.


2 1

FLATPATTERN MAKI NG 

I ti nv o l v e st hede v e l o pme nto fafit t e dbas i c pat t e r nwi t hc o mf o r te as et ofitape r s o no rbo dy f o r m.



As l o pe ri st hes t ar t i ngpo i ntf o rflatpat t e r n de s i gni ng.



I ti sas i mpl epat t e r nt hatfit st hebo dywi t hj us t e no ughe as ef o rmo v e me ntandc o mf o r t


( Pat t er nCut t i ng& Maki ngUpVol .1 Sho be nandWar d) . 2 2


2 3

FLATPATTERN MAKI NG 

Fi v ebas i cpat t e r npi e c e sar eus e df o rwo me nsc l o t hi ng .The y i nc l ude

1.

as nugfit t i ngbo di c ef r o nt

2.

bo di c ebac kwi t hdar t s

3.

abas i cne c kl i ne ,

4.

as l e e ve

5.

afit t e ds ki r tf r o ntandbac kwi t hdar t s .


Ho we v e r ,as f as hi o nc hang e sf r e q ue nt l y wo me n' ss t y l e s fluc t uat ef r e q ue nt l y . .

The s eb as i cs l o pe r sar et he nmani pul at e dt oc r e at ef as hi o ns .24

PATTERN MAKI NG PROCESS



" Pat t e r nmaki ng"i st hepr o c e s so fc r e at i ngal lt he c o r r e c t l ys i z e dpi e c e sne e de dt omakeac o mpl e t e g ar me nt .



Fo rma nys mal l e rma nuf a c t ur e r s ,pat t e r n maki ngi ss t i l ldo neo npape rbe c a us et hec o s to f c o mput e r i z e ds y s t e msr e mai nspr o hi bi t i v e .



Thep at t e r nmake rma yus eo neo ft hef o l l o wi ng t e c hni que st ode v e l o pas a mpl epat t e r n.

1.

The ymay" mani pul at e"ane w pat t e r nbyus i ng g e o me t r i cr ul e st omo di f yo ral t e re xi s t i ng pat t e r npi e c e s .


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2

3

The ymayt r ans l at ea de s i g nt ha tha sb e e n " dr aped"andpi nnedona dr e s sf o r mb yc o nv e r t i ng t hes hape so ft hedr ape d g ar me nts e c t i o ns i nt opape rpat t e r npi e c e s . The yma ypi npi e c e so f mus l i nt oagarmentbei ng c o pi e dandr ubt ai l o r ' s c hal ko ve rt hes eamsand da r t s ,ma ki nga" mus l i n r ub . "Thec ha l kma r ki ng s ar et he nus e dt oc r e at ea fla tpape rpa t t e r n.


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2 7

PATTERN MAKI NG PROCESS 

Fr o m t hi si ni t i al pat t e r n, a s ampl e gar me nt i s d e v e l o p e d .



Thes ampl epr o c e s sal l o wsade s i gne rt oc o r r e c tany


pr o bl e msi nhe r e nti nt r ans l at i ngao ne di me ns i o nal s k e t c hi nt oa t wo di me ns i o nalg ar me nt ;i te ns ur e s t hatt hede s i gne r ' sf abr i cy ar dages pe c i fic a t i o nsar e ac c ur at e ;and i t pr o v i de s an o ppo r t uni t yt os po t po t e nt i alpr o duc t i o npr o bl e msi nhe r e nti nade s i gn. 2 8

PATTERN MAKI NG PROCESS 

Onc et hes ampl ei smade,t hemanuf ac t ur er make sas mal lbat c ho fdupl i c at e sf o ri t ss al e s f o r c et ot e s tmar ke t .I ft he ys e l lwe l l ,t he Fl g ar me ntg o e si nt ol ar g e rv o l umepr o duc t i o n.

a t P a tt e r n M a k in g

 A l t ho ugh manyfir mss t i l lmakepat t e r nsby

hand,l ar g e rmanuf ac t ur e r smakepr o duc t i o n pat t er nsonac omput erus i ngCAD s of t war e. 2 9


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

Ot he rs y s t e msha v eb e e nde v e l o p e dt ha ta l l o w pat t e r nmake r st oc r e a t epat t e r nsmanual l yby us i ngal i f e s i z e d,s e ns i t i z e dt abl eandas t y l us a t t ac he dt oac o mput e r .Ast hepat t e r nma ke r i ndi c a t e spo i nt swi t ht hes t y l us ,t hepat t e r n pi e c e sar eaut o mat i c al l ye nt e r e di nt ot heCAD s y s t e m whe r et he yc a ni mme d i a t e l ybea c c e s s e d f o rgr adi ngandmar ki ng .


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BASI C TOOLSFOR APPAREL PATTERNMAKI NG





Ha vi ngt her i ghtt o o l sf o rmaki ngapat t e r ni sa s upe ri mpo r t antpl ac et os t ar t .Luc ki l y ,mo s tt o ol s ar eno te x pe ns i v eandar ee as yt og e t . He r e ’ st hequi c kl i s t . 1)Lar g es c al epape r 2 )Cl e a rGr i dde dRul e r 3)Fl e x i bl eDe s i gnRul e 4 )Hi p/ Ar m Cur v e( St y l i ngDe s i g nRul e r ) 5)Pe nc i landag o o dEr as e r 6)Lar g epi ns 7 )Co r kpane l s 8)Fl e x i bl eMe a s ur i ngTape 9)Bas i cs e wi ngbo o k


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1 . LARGE SCALE PAPER 

Suc ha sb ut c he rpa pe r ( 18 wi deo nl o ng r o l l s ) ,banne rpape r ( 18 wi der o l la nd o f t e ns o l dwi t h s c ho o l / o ffic es uppl i e s ) , pa t t e r ni ngpa pe r( 3 64 8 wi de ,s o l db y s t o r e st hats e l l pat t e r ni ngt o ol so r c at e rt ohi g he nd s e wi ngandt ai l o r i ng) . ″

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″

″

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2. CLEAR GRI DDED RULER 

The s er ul e r sar ep r e t t ye as yt o findatmo s tc r a f ts t o r e s . 

Themo s tc o mmo ns i z es ee mst o b e1 8x 2 whi c hi sagr e a ts i z et o s t ar twi t h.Thi ss t y l eo fr ul e r c o me si nma nys i z e sa nds ha pe s . Thevar i e t yc omesi nhandyand t hemo r ey o up at t e r n( a ndfig ur e outwhoy ouareasa de s i g ne r )y o uwi l lwa ntt ogr o w y ourc o l l e c t i o nb ybuyi ngr ul e r s t of ul fil lc e r t ai nne e dsandus e s . The12x1 r ul eri sext r emel y us ef ulwhenaddi ngs eam al l o wanc e st os mal lpi e c e so r s ha r pc ur v e s . ″

″

″


″

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3. FLEXI BLE DESI GN RULE ( FLEXI BLE RULER) 

Thi sr ul ec anbec ur v e di nt o s pe c i fics hape sandy o uus e t hi st ome a s ur ec ur v e d l i ne s .The yar eo f t e npl ac e d wi t hqui l t i ngno t i o nsi n f abr i cs t o r e sand,l i ke gr i dde dr ul e r s ,c anal s obe f o undwi t hgr aphi cde s i g n t o ol s .Fo rmo s tv e r s at i l e us e ,ma kes ur ey o ug e to ne t hathasabui l ti nr ul e r .


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4. HI P/ ARM CURVE 

The s ear ebe c o mi ng e as i e rt ofindi n s e wi ngs t o r e s .Thi s t o oli sde s i gne dt ogi v e y o ut heb e s ts mo o t h, c o ns i s t e nthi pand ar mc ur v e swi t hl i t t l e e ffo r t .Yo u do n’ tn hi st o o l e e dt buti tmake pat t e r ni nge as i e r !


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5.PENCI LAND A GOOD ERASER 

Wewantt ous epenc i lwhe n pat t e r ni ngs ol i ne sc anbe e r a s e da ndr e dr a wn.



Me c hani c alpe nc i l sar ea be t t e ro pt i o nbe c aus eof t he i ri nc r e di bl yc o ns i s t e nt l i newi dt h.



Ag o o de r as e ri sa n i mpe r at i v eal s o .Wewi l l wa ntag o o de r a s e rt o c l e anl yr e mo v eol dl i ne s l e a v i ngnoma r ksb e hi nd t hatc o ul dc o nf us eusl at e r o n.


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6.LARGEPI NS 

Lar gepi nsc omei n handywhenpat t er ni ng ( e s pe c i al l ywhe nus ewi t h c o r kpane l s ) .



The ya r eus e dt os e c ur e o v er l appe dl a ye r so f pape rwhe nwec he c kt o makes ur eo url i nesflo w we l laswe l last ot r ans f e r mar ksf r o mo nel a y e ro f pape rt oano t he r .



The yar egr e atwhe nwe mo v eo raddf ul l ne s s ( dar t s ,flar e s ,e t c ) .


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7 .CORK PANELS 



Mo s tl ar ges t o r e st hat s e l lo ffic e / s c ho o l s uppl i e ss e l lc o r k pane l s . The yar eme antt obe us e dasbul l e t i n b o ar dswi t ho utf r ame s buti tc anbeus ea s gr e atwo r ks ur f ac e whe nwene e dt o r o t at eo urpat t e r n pi e c e st omo v edar t s o ra ddf ul l ne s s .


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8.FLEXI BLEMEASURI NG TAPE 



Whe nmaki ngpat t e r ns whe t hert he yar ec us t om fito ry o ua r ewo r ki ng wi t hag e ne r i c bl o c k/ s l o pe r–wewi l l ne e dt ome a s ur et o de t e r mi net hep r o pe r s i z i ng,pr o pe rpr o po r t i o ns , o ri de alpl ac e me nto f c e r t ai nas pe c t sand de t ai l s . Ke e p i ngafle x i bl e me as ur i ngt apehandy wi l lbeanas s e t .


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9.PATTERNI NG BOOK ( NOT PI CTURED)





The r ear es e v e r alv e r y go o dbo o ksf o rc r e at i ng o uro wns e wi ng pat t e r nsa vai l abl ei n mar ke t . Ther ear eaf e w di ffe r e ntwa y st o appr o a c hpat t e r ni ng andwe ’ l lha v et ofig ur e o utwhi c ht e c hni q ue s ar ebe s tf o ro urbo dy t y pea ndwo r ki ngs t y l e .


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PATTERN MAKI NG I N TODAY’ S WORLD



Pat t er nmaki ngt odayhas b e c o mea ne a s yj o bwi t h t heus eo ft hec o mput e r s .



No wada ysdi ffe r e nts o f t war e sar ea v ai l abl ei nt he ma r k e tt ome e tt hene e ds o ft hemanuf ac t ur e r s .



Thedi ffe r e nts o f twar e s us e dar eGe r be r ,Le c t r a, Tukat e c h,Opt i Te xe t c .



Thes es of t war eshasmade t hej o bo ft hePat t e r n mas t e reas i e r .


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PATTERN MAKI NG I N TODAY’ S WORLD





The yhav emadet he pr o c e s so fpat t e r nmaki ng mo r ee c o no mi c a la ndl e s s t i mec o ns umi ng. Pa t t e r nma ki ngs o f twa r e s e nabl e sy o ut oi nputy o ur me as ur e ment sanddr af t o utapat t e r n.The s es o f t war e sdr af tpat t e r nst ofit yo urme as ur e me nt s s pe c i fic al l y ,e l i mi nat i ng muc hfit t i ngt r i aland e r r o ri nt hes e wi ngr o o m.


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PATTERN MAKI NG I N TODAY’ SWORLD  A pat t e r nc anbemadef r o m a3D f o r mi nj us taf e w

s t e ps b y us i ng t he s es o f t war e s . An i ndi vi dual ' s me a s ur e me nt sa r ec o l l e c t e df r o m 3 D b o dy s c a nne r . The me a s ur e me nt sa r e us e dt oc r e a t e a vi r t ua l3 D mo de lo ft hei ndi vi dual ' sbo dy . 

The 3 Dt o2 Ds o f t wa r ea l l o wst he us e rt od e fine a


g ar me nts ur f ac ei nr e l at i o nt ot he 3D bo dy mo de l . Onc et hegar me nts ur f ac ei sde fine d,t heappl i c at i o n aut o ma t i c a l l yunwr a psa ndo ut put sa2 D fla tpa t t e r n i n. dxff o r mat .

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CONCLUSI ON  A l t ho ugh pat t e r n maki ng i s be c o mi ng i nc r e as i ng l y

c o mput e r i z e d, pat t e r nmake r ss t i l l mus tl e ar nt he manualme t ho d bec aus e maki ng pat t e r ns manual l y F la t P a tt e r n M a k in g

de v e l o p sa n a dv a nc e d unde r s t a ndi ng o fg a r me nt c o ns t r uc t i o n,kno wl e dget hatc anno ty e tber e pl ac e d byac omput e r .

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READYTOWEAR 

Theflatpat t e r nmaki ngme t hodi swi del yus ed i nt her e ady t o we armar ke tbe c a us ei ti sf as t a nda c c ur a t e


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REFERENCES 

Al dr i c h,Wi ni f r e d.1997 ,Me t r i cPat t e r nCut t i ng. Bl a c kwe l lSc i e nc eLt dU. K.

 A r ms t r o ngH. J,2000,Pat t e r nMaki ngf o rFas hi o n Des i gn,Har per& r o w publ i s her s ,Ne w Yor k 

Co o kl i n,G. 1 99 4,Pa t t e r nCut t i ngf o rWo me ns Out e r we ar

Huds o n,P. B,1 98 0,Ther o l eo ffita ndFa s hi o no n Appar e lQual i t y ,Bo bbi n. 



Sho b e n,M. Ma ndJ . P.Wa r d,19 99 ,Pa t t e r nc ut t i ng andMaki ngup,CBSPubl i s he r s ,Ne w De l hi



He l e nSt anl e y ,1991 ,Fl atpat t e r nc ut t i ng& mo de l i ngf o rf as hi o n,U. K


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Flat Pattern Making

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