Drafting the Bishop's Sleeve Divide the sleeve into four approximately equal sections draw vertical lines from the cap to the hem and cut along those lines. Do not cut through the cap - keep the sections connected just a tiny bit, if possible. (It's not really a problem if you cut them apart, it just makes it a bit more difficult to keep them in order and make them meet at the cap properly)
Spread the sections apart to create the full shape of the blouse. I spread 2" at the hem - you may find that you like more or less fullness, and it can vary depending on the fabric you're using. In addition to spreading the sections, you'll need to add a little length to the back part of the sleeve only. This creates that beautiful drape that is what the bishop's sleeve is all about. Draw a short line 3/4" below section #3 this is the section next to the center, but towards the back of the sleeve (remember, the back of the sleeve is the side that has 2 notches in the cap). Now, draw the new bottom edge. Draw a nice curve from side to side, incorporating the lower area towards the back. This might take a bit of practice, but you can do this freeform if you'd like. Your final design will look something like the one at right. 72
You'll need a cuff to gather and hold the fullness at the wrist. The measurements in the illustration are just guidelines - you may need to adjust depending on the size of your wrist and how deep you want your cuff to be. This cuff will finish at about 1 3/4"; you may opt for a more narrow cuff and let the sleeve drape take the focus, or you could go with a higher cuff with more buttons or trim. You'll also need a vent to allow the cuff to open properly. The vent is just a short line drawn in the longer area - see the illustration for size and placement. The vent can be finished with a narrow binding or a placket. The binding is probably easier, and still looks very nice.
