TEACHERS CHESS WORKSHEETS Vol. 1 By Michael Crowe
SCHOLASTIC CHESS CLUB These
chess worksheets have been produced to assist teacher’s in developing the chess-playing skills of improving students. It sometimes it happens that a chess student may have exceptional ability, even more than that of the teacher. These lessons will help to correct such a state of affairs. Designed as one-page lessons, (where possible) we recommend that they be used in the following way: Firstly, teachers should familiarise themselves with the material contained in the chosen lesson, sometime before the presentation. In this way the teacher will be more comfortable with the subtleties or nuances in various positions and will therefore be more competent to deal with any questions that might arise. At the end of each lesson we suggest that previously prepared photocopies of same be given as handouts to students for further study or revision. This of course, is optional but the idea has some merit.
How To Read and Write Chess Moves All new players should learn to keep score using what is called “algebraic” notation. In the diagram that follows, you will notice that the board includes the numbers 1 - 8 along the right edge and the letters “a” - “h” along the bottom of the board. We can use the combination of one letter and one number to describe each square on the chessboard. For example, the white King begins the game on e1. The black Rooks begin the game on a8 and h8. If I begin the game by pushing the pawn in front of the King two squares, we can describe the move as e2-e4, or simply e4. Moving the Knight on g1 to f3 would be written g1-f3 or more simply Nf3. An “x” is used to show that a capture has taken place. For example, Nxe4 means that the Knight moves and captures whatever was on e4. You don’t necessarily need to include “check” in your scoresheet, but you can easily do this with “ch” or just “+”. For mate many players use “#”.
The important thing to remember is how to identify the pieces you are moving. You just need to use a single capital letter: K: King Q: Queen R: Rook B: Bishop N: Knight Note that “P” is not used. Chess players have agreed that a move without a letter - such as e4 is understood to be a pawn move. You are almost ready to start using chess notation. Just pay attention to the following symbols: X Take or capture # or ++ Checkmate O-O Castles Kingside ! Good move O-O-O Castles Queenside ? Bad move + Check ?? Blunder Let’s put into practice what we’ve just learned. We will use the famous Scholar’s Mate”.
1. e4
1...e5
2. Bc4
2...h6
Remember: It’s a good idea to record your games so that you can learn from your mistakes when you look at them later. 3. Qh5
3...Nf6??
4. Qxf7#
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WINNING TACTICAL IDEAS There are many tricks and traps that all chess improvers must be aware of. It is not enough to “see” simple captures in order to avoid loss of material. Real chess skill comes when we have developed an acute awareness of tactics. In the next few lessons we introduce to the following : the PIN, the SKEWER, the KNIGHT FORK, the DOUBLE ATTACK, TRAPPING and DISCOVERED ATTACKS. With practice these devices will become second nature to you.
A pin occurs when a piece shields another from attack in a straight line (file, rank or diagonal). We exploit a pinned piece by attacking it again, In the diagram on the right, the black Knight is pinned against the Queen. If the Knight moves the Queen is lost. White wins by playing the simple move e5.
White to move
Here’s a more complicated example. At the moment there is no obvious pin available but with the help of check Black can set one up nicely. Can you see how? Black plays 1...Ba3+ 2.Kc2 Rxe4 3. Qxe4 when 3...Bf5 pins and wins the white Queen. Remember this phrase: Pin and Win.
Black to move
Sometimes we can combine two tactical ideas effectively. Here we see Trapping and the Pin working in harmony. Black sees that the white Queen has very few safe squares to move to, and wins cleverly by playing 1...c4. This forces the reply 2. Qxc4 bringing the white Queen dangerously onto the same line as the King. Now Black plays 2...Rc7 pinning and winning the White Queen. Black to move
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FORKS (Double Attacks) A fork is one of the deadliest weapons on the chessboard. By attacking two pieces at once, you ensure that you win one of them after the other has moved.
This is a triple fork. The white Knight attacks the black King, Queen and Rook. This is made all the more effective as the Knight also gives check. This is known as a “family check” since the royal family is under fire. The Black King must move and then White will capture the Queen with a winning advantage.
This looks like a good fork - but it isn’t. White’s Queen attacks the Rook at h8 and the Knight at b6. But the Knight is defended and really only the Rook at h8 is in danger.
Not all forks win material. See the diagram ! Here White’s Bishop attacks the black Rook and Knight. But Black has no less than three ways out of the fork. Can you see them? 1. By defending ...Rb8 2. By counterattack ...Rb1+ 3. By pinning ...Rd7, and White then can’t play Bxg8 because his own King would be in check.
Setting up a fork. Forks don’t just happen. Here White creates the conditions for a double attack by means of a sacrifice. He plays 1.Rh8+! luring the King from the protection of the Bishop (Removing the guard ) and onto a square where he can be checked and forked. Black has no choice and must play 1...Kxh8 but now there follows the deadly fork 2. Nxg6+ winning a Rook and Bishop for only a Rook.
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SKEWERS, DOUBLE CHECKS, etc
In a skewer a Bishops impales two pieces together on a diagonal, or a Queen or Rook may impale two pieces together on a file. See diagram ! White wins by 1.Rxa7! Rxa7 2.Bf2+ skewering the King and Rook. Black must get the King off the dark-squared diagonal and lose the Rook at a7.
Here Black has two good Bishops. One already helps to threaten mate at c2, combining with the black Queen. White’s Queen defends the mate. What can Black do? A sacrifice does the trick. 1...Be3! The White Queen is attacked and pinned. 2. Qxe3 Qxc2#
Here the White Bishops rake the Kingside. How can they help White to force checkmate? White must clear the line of action for the Bishop on b2 to join the attack. 1.Qxh5! Nxh5 all clear 2.Nxf7# The power of the double check is devastating. More on this later.
Remember to combine various tactical ideas whenever possible. Here White has the opportunity to play a pin followed by a fork. Can you see how? 1. Bb5! Pin Qxb5 forced. 2. Nxc7+ The family fork. Black loses a Queen and pawn for only a Bishop.
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REMOVING THE GUARD
Our first position shows this idea in its simplest form. The black Knight at d5 protects the Bishop at e7 from the attack by the white Rook at e1. So....... White plays 1. Bxd5 removing the guard, and after 1...cxd5 White wins the Bishop by 2.Rxe7.
White to move
This situation requires some vision so pay close attention. Black wins a piece in the following way...... 1...Bxf3 2.Qxf3 Qxf3 removing the guard 2.gxf3 Rxd3. If instead, White plays 2.gxf3 then Black continues with 2...Qd5 and must win one of the Bishops as they are “skewered”.
Black to move
By now these tactical situations should be getting easier to understand and the various ideas becoming easier to spot. Can you see White’s winning move here? White plays 1.Nxc6+ removing the guard and after 1...Nxc6 he plays 2.Rxb5 winning a Rook and pawn (6 points) for a Knight (3 points).
White to move
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LEGALLE’S MATE This is a very common trap which occurs at beginner and improver level. It is essential therefore that newcomers are familiar with the idea. 1.e4 e5 2.Nf3 d6 3.Bc4 Bg4 4.Nc3 g6? Black’s opening moves were not the best. Firstly, the third move …Bg4 was inferior as it’s usually better to develop your kingside pieces first in order to enable castling. One inaccurate move is bad enough, but Black’s last, …g6 which neglects development leads to disaster as follows…………. 5.Nxe5! Has White gone mad? Let’s see…. . 5...Bxd1?? Black thinks that White has overlooked the fact that the Knight was pinned (shielding the Queen) and foolishly grabs the Royal Lady.
6.Bxf7+ 6...Ke7 Black has no other move. Now comes the final blow...........
7.Nd5 Checkmate! Note that if Black did not take the Queen at move 5 and captured the Knight at e5 instead, then White would play 6. Qxg4 winning a valuable pawn.
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LOOKS FAMILIAR Recognizing a pattern can be a great help, as in this example. 1.e4 d5 2.exd5 Qxd5 3.Nc3 White gains time by attacking the Queen. We call this gaining a tempo. 3...Qd8 The black Queen returns home to safety, but White has gained a move. Checking on the e-file would only lead to further time wasting as White would soon gain more tempi by attacking the Queen while developing pieces.
4.d4 Nc6 5.Nf3 Bg4 6.d5 Ne5 7.Nxe5!! White is familiar with Legalle’s idea and plays this startling move.
7...Bxd1 8.Bb5+ Exploiting the absence of Black's Bishop which is completely out of play on d1. After 8...c6 Black seems safe, but......... 9.dxc6 White threatens a deadly discovered check. Can you see it?
9...Qb6 [If instead, 9...Qc7 10.cxb7+ Kd8 11.Nxf7#; Or, 9...a6 10.c7+ axb5 11.cxd8Q+ Rxd8 12.Nxd1. 10.cxb7+ Discovered Check White will get a new Queen and Black must lose material. Check it out!
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SMOTHERED MATE Philidor’s Legacy This famous combination was handed down to us by one of the best French players of the 18th century, André Danican Philidor. A smothered mate occurs when the defender’s own men hem in the king completely, enabling a lone knight to deliver the knockout punch – Checkmate!
The white Queen has just moved to d5, giving check.
1...Kh8 If instead, 1...Kf8 2.Qf7 Mate.
2.Nf7+ 2...Kg8
3.Nh6+! DOUBLE CHECK The strongest weapon on the chessboard. The great Russian chess teacher, Aron Nimzovich once said "When faced with a double check even the laziest King must flee!"
3...Kh8 If instead 3...Kf8 4.Qf7#
4.Qg8+!! A wonderful move.
4...Rxg8 The black rook has been forced to block in his own king.
5.Nf7 Checkmate.
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DÉJÁ VÚ This position will test your knowledge of the smothered mate pattern. # 1.Qg8+ Kxg8 (if 1...Rxg8 2.Nf7+ mate) 2.Ne7+ Kf8 (if 2...Kh8 3.Nf7+ mate 3.N7g6+ (When two Knights can reach the same square the move must be qualified further, therefore the 7 is included here) hxg6 4.Nxg6 mate. Remember it doesn’t matter how much material is sacrificed once checkmate is achieved.
Heres’s another # 1.Rb8 Rxb8 2.Bc3+ Qg7 3.Qg8+ Rxg8 4.Nf7# Simple when you know how!
Although complicated, you should by now have no great difficulty with this position. # 1.Rh4 Qxh4 2.Qg8+ (This move should be almost automatic by now given your familiarity with the pattern) The King must capture...Kxg8 3.Ne7+ Kh8 4.Nf7+ Rxf7+ (forced, but now the back rank has been fatally weakened) So... 5.Rc8+ Rf8 6.Rxf8#
This one is more difficult but armed with the knowledge you have already gained you should be able to understand what is going on # 1.Ne5+ This is better than 1.Nxd6+ since it opens the e-file. The reason for this will soon become clear. 1...Kh8 2.Nf7+ Kg8 3.Nd8+ This interferes with the Queen’s communication on the back rank. 3...Kh8 4.Re8+ This draws the Rook back to the eighth rank where it also prevents the Queen taking part in the defence. 4...Rxe8+ 5.Nf7+ Kg8 6.Nh6++ Kh8 7.Qg8+ Rxg8 8.Nf7#
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DOUBLE CHECK Here’s a famous example 1.e4 c6 2.d4 d5 3.Nc3 dxe4 4.Nxe4 Nf6 5.Qd3 A most unnatural move. 5...e5? Over-reacting to White's eccentric 5.Qd3. Black plans a brilliant refutation but White's 5th move was not as bad as all that. 6.dxe5 Qa5+ 7.Bd2 Qxe5 8.0–0–0. Setting a subtle trap.
8...Nxe4? A mistake. Correct was 8...Be7.
9.Qd8+!! Luring the King to the fatal square.
9...Kxd8 10.Bg5+ Double check 10...Ke8 As the famous Russian chess teacher, Aron Nimzovich once said, “When faced with a double check, even the laziest King must flee”.
11.Rd8# The final diagram is impressive, with the black King caught in the centre.
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The Weak Spot at f7 At the start of the game Black’s most vulnerable point is the square f7. This is one of the main reasons that early castling is recommended, making the king safe. Let’s see this in action. 1.e4 d6 2.d4 g6 3.¤f3 ¥g7 4.¥c4 ¤d7?? This is a common mistake. It is usually better to develop the kingside pieces before the queenside pieces, but here it is especially bad as the King is still in the centre.
5.¥xf7+ White sacrifices the Bishop in order to bring the king out into the open.
5...¢xf7
6.¤g5+ The king is in check and must move. 6...¢f6 Note that if Black had played 6... .¢f8 then 7.¤e6+ wins the queen, and if 6...Ke8 then 7.¤e6 traps the queen.
7.£f3 Checkmate. If the King goes for a walk in the opening he catches cold and dies. It is worth noting also, that the white pieces work in harmony to checkmate the black king.
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The See - Saw
In this lesson we examine a special device connected with discovered check. In order to understand this we need to identify the three key players. These are: The threatening piece, the shielding piece and the threatened piece. In employing discovered check the shielding piece may move with impunity to any square of its
This is our starting point.
White plays 1. Bh7+
Black has no choice, so 1...Kh8
This sets up the “See-saw”.
White plays 2. Bg6+
Black must play 2...Kg8
Improving the position of the Bishop
choosing, even if that square is protected by the enemy, since the opponent is in check. is a fine example.
Here
3.Kg8
2. Qh7+ White finishes neatly
4. Qxf7 #
To summarise: The threatening piece was the Queen, the shielding piece was the Bishop and the threatened piece was the King. This is a most useful device and will win many games for you. Be on the look-out for it in future.
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What a finish! Here we follow the concluding moves of a game played between Edward Lasker and Sir George Thomas in London, 1912. This features a n attack called a king hunt. White played 1.Qxh7+ Kxh7
2.Nxf6++ (double-check) . The king must move.
2...Kh6 (If 2...Kh8 3.Ng6#) 3.Neg4+ Kg5
4.h4+ Kf4 5.g3+ Kf3
6.Be2+ Kg2 7Rh2+ Kg1
8.0-0-0 Checkmate!
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Undermining & Overloading When a piece has an important duty to perform, it can be tied to its post just as effectively as if it were pinned. In the diagram ! the black Knight guards the a7-pawn and prevents White from playing 1. Qxa7 mate. By attacking the Knight with 1.b5 White undermines this defence. 2...Na5 loses the Knight to 2.Qxa5. Any other move of the Knight allows 2.Qxa7 mate. So the Knight is lost.
When a piece has more than one defensive duty to perform it can be overloaded. In the position on the right ! the black Queen is guarding the a7-pawn against a threatened mate, and also prevents mate on d8. The Queen is overloaded and White takes advantage of this by playing 1.Rd8+ forcing 1...Qxd8 when 2.Qxa7# follows.
Here is a celebrated example played by the famous Capablanca. White’s Queen guards the back rank against 1...Rd1 mate. All seems well but Capablanca reveals the true weakness by overloading the white Queen. Black played 1...Qb2!! threatenening 2...Qxc3 and 2...Qxe2. All attempts at defence fail. 2.Qxb2 allows 2...Rd1# Or, 2.Rc2 Qb1+ 3.Qf1 Qxc2 wins the Rook. Or, 2.Qe1 Qxc3 3.Qxc3 Rd1+ 4. Qe1 Rxe1# So, Black resigned. Look at this position ! The great Paul Morphy was quick to spot the real weakness in Black’s position. The Queen is overloaded, having to guard both f8 and g6. He exploited this as follows....... 1.Rf8+ Qxf8 2.Rxf8+ Rxf8 3.Qxg6#
Here White has a dangerous attack but Black seems to have adequate defences against Qb7+ and Rxc5+. However, after White’s next move, Black is busted. 1.Bc7!! interefering with both the Queen’s defence of b7 and the Rook’s defence of c5. Black is powerless to meet both threats. If 1...Qxc7 2.Rxc5+ Qxc5 3.Qb7+ Qb6 4.Qxb6# If 1...Rxc7 2.Qb7+ Rxc7 3.Rxc5#
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Look for a better move. A former world champion, Emanuel Lasker once said “When you see a good move, don’t play it”! Strange advice indeed. But he went on to say “Look for a better move”. Let us see how this works out in practice. # Here White has several good moves, for example 1.Rd4 attacking the Queen and preparing to double rooks by 2.Rad1. However, if we look a little closer we see that the Rook at c8 is overloaded as it has to guard the King from invasion on the back rank and also must protect the Queen at c4. White can exploit this by playing 1.Rd8+ Black must play 1..Rxd8 answering the check but giving up protection of the Queen. White then plays 2.Qxc4 and emerges with a decisive material advantage. (He wins a Queen for a Rook) Consider this similar position # See if you can find the best move here. 1.Rd8+ should certainly be considered but remember the world champion’s advice. Look for a better move. 1.Qxc4 fits the bill. If Black recaptures by 1...Rxc4 2.Rd8+ is mate Black must lose the Queen or the game.
Find the best move here #
White plays 1.Rd8+. Black plays 1...Kg7 (If 1...Rxd8 2.Qxc4) White continues with 2.Rxc8 winning a Rook.
Finally, a slightly tougher problem # White plays 1.Rd8+. Black plays 1...Kg7 and now White exploits the fact that the Rook at c8 is overloaded. Can you see how? White plays 2.Qxc4 Rxc4 3.Rxa8 winning a Rook.
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Exercises & Tests It is an essential part of tactical training to try to extend the “horizon of your chess vision”. Let us suppose that at the moment in a reasonably uncomplicated position, you can see two moves ahead for each side. Your horizon we would say is two moves. Your task as an aspiring player is to extend this horizon to three, the four and so on. It’s difficult at first, but with practice it gets easier. These tests should help. A) What moves would you consider in this position? ! What about 1. Bf7+ Rxf7+ 2.Qxh7+ etc? Is this good? Try looking for other forcing moves by White.
B) This is a more complicated position. As White to move you must consider the following sequence......1.Qh7+ Kf8 2.Qh8+ Ke7 (all forced moves so far). Now 3.Rxf7+ would be mate, were it not for the Bishop at e8. This leads us to try 3.Rxf7+ Bxf7 4.Rxf7 mate. All very well, but did you forget that Black might instead play 3...Kd8? Can you see how White wins brilliantly in this case?
C) In our next position our goal is not checkmate but transition to a winning endgame. White could play 1.Nxf7 coming out a pawn ahead after 1...Kxf7 or 1...Qxe3. White has a much stronger continuation, eliminating the black Queen in the process. Can you see how?
Solutions A) After 1.Bxf7+ Kxf7 White’s attack peters out. Instead 1.Qxh7+!! forces 1...Kxh7 when 2.Bf7+ (discovered check) is checkmate. Note how the Bishop uses its move to control the square g8. B) White forces mate with 4.Qxe8+ Kxe8 5.Rf8+ Ke7 6.R1f7# C) White played 1.Qh8+!! Kxh8 2.Nxf7+ fork Kg7 3.Nxg5 emerging a Knight and a pawn ahead.
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Planning and the principle of two weaknesses When we create simple threats our opponent is able to parry them without any particular difficulty. The secret of success frequently lies in knowing how to create several threats at once. This idea is illustrated in Reti’s well known study. White is saved because he has two threats at once: Black could parry either of these threats easily, but not both at the same time.
Study by Reti (See the “Square of the pawn” page 20) 1.Kg7 h4 2.Kf6 Kb6 (or, 2...h3 3.Ke7) 3.Ke5! White is saved because he has two threats at once: stopping the enemy pawn with 4.Kf4, and supporting his own pawn with 4.Kd6. Black could parry either of these threats easily, but not both. The idea of creating two simultaneous threats will serve as a starting point for us in understanding the process of forming a plan. The plans we have in mind pursue the aim of creating threats. Not simple, tactical ones, like the ones we have examined earlier, but long term strategic threats. The principle of two weaknesses is a very useful one in creating a strategic plan in the middlegame. A long term strategic plan serves as a weakness in the wider sense of the word. For example, not only is your opponent’s pawn vulnerable, but there is also the threat of queening
Remember: One of your assets e.g a passed pawn, can be counted as one of your opponents weaknesses
The principle of two weaknesses In the endgame a curious phenomenon is often seen when you cannot win a game even though the opponent’s position shows a marked weakness. Yet if your opponent has two weaknesses then as a rule you will score the full point. For example, in this position ! White wins by sacrificing (abandoning) the pawn on a4 and moving his King to the other wing to capture the pawns there. The first weakness in the Black position is the white passed pawn on a4. The second is the vulnerability of the King’s wing. Now look at this diagram ! Here we have a similar position, but with the addition of pawns on c4 and c5. White cannot win here since the King’s wing is now impregnable - only one enemy weakness. Sequence of strategic planning Our strategy develops as follows: 1) Creating an initial weakness. This is probably the most difficult - you have to “catch” your opponent at some point. 2) Attacking the weakness - not necessarily with the aim of destroying it, but in order to tie the enemy pieces to its defence. 3) Creating another weakness in another part of the board 4) Breaching the opponent’s defence.
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The Worst placed piece Chess literature does not refer to the following principle, although leading players are frequently guided by it. In positions of a strategic nature (where time is not of decisive significance) look for your worst placed piece. Activating that piece is often the most reliable way of improving your position as a whole. See Diagram ! Look at the placement of the black pieces. The d5-Knight and b7-Bishop are working well. The c8-Rook is also well placed, while the other Rook could go in one move to an excellent square e8. The Queen is ready to go wherever necessary. We are left with the Bishop on e7, which has made almost no contribution to the game so far. How can it be included in the coming attack?
The best method is by means of ...Bf8 (after the preparatory ...Re8). This also clears the way for the Queen to come to h4 at some point. Incidentally, by choosing this plan we are also acting in accordance with something we discussed - the principle of two weaknesses. The first weakness - the d4-pawn - is already fixed., and Black is beginning to look around for new objects to attack - the white King and the f4-pawn. With the Bishop on h6 and the Queen on h4 he will be able to think about bringing the knight from d5 via f6 to g4 or e4, intensifying the attack on the king.
Here White has just played Qf5 ! What now? Using the principle of the worst placed piece, we see that Black’s king is in a vulnerable position. With the King on b8 instead, Black would be winning as he is the exchange up i.e he has won a Rook (5 points) in exchange for a Knight (3 points) earlier in the game. Black should play ...Kc8 intending to play ...Kb8 but instead chose the inferior ...Ke7 and only managed to draw the game.
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The Square of the pawn What is a passed pawn? A passed pawn is one which has no other pawn impeding or blocking its path towards the queening square. In the diagram on the right ! the pawn on b4 is “passed”, having a clear run to the square b8. Here is a neat way of determining whether or not the pawn can reach the promotion square b8, without having to go through the process of “I go here, he goes there” etc. Including the square on which the passed pawn stands, we count the number of squares to the queening square - in this case 5. Then we make a square of 5 x 5 as outlined here.
Black to move
We then use the following rule: If the enemy King can enter this square (known as the square of the pawn) then the pawn will be caught by the King.
Here we see the position after Black has played 1...Kf4 and White has responded by advancing his passed pawn to b5. Now the square has been reduced to 4 x 4, but on his next move Black will again enter the square of the pawn, ensuring that the pawn will not promote. In this way Black succeeds in drawing the game.
Note that in the original position (first diagram) if White had the move, he would have a simple win by advancing the pawn immediately since the black King could not enter the square of the pawn.
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How to Checkmate with Queen and King This is a simple win—if you know how! First we need a plan and some useful information. 1. The Queen cannot checkmate the lone King by herself— she needs the help of her own King. 2. The enemy King must be driven to the edge of the board in order to give checkmate.
Step one is to restrict the King as much as possible. (checking is not a good idea as we simply chase the King around the board aimlessly.) With this in mind we should play 1. Qd5 The arrows show how restricted the King’s movements have become. He cannot enter any of the squares covered by the arrows.
Black plays 1...Kf6
White plays 2. Kf2 (since further restriction is not possible)
White plays 3. Qc6
3...Kf7 4. Qd6
Black plays 2...Ke7
4...Ke8 5. Qc7 Now the King’s advance decides the game.
Now that the King has been driven to the edge of the board, the Queen’s job is done—for the moment. It’s time to bring up the King to lend a hand. He aims for the square g6 (or f6). Once there, it’s easy to deliver checkmate. The concluding moves could be….5..Kg8 6. Kf3 Ke8 7. Kg4 Kf8 8. Kg5 Kg8 9. Kg6 Kh8 10. Qh7 checkmate. The final position is shown on the right
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How to Checkmate with Rook and King In many ways, this procedure is similar to checkmate with the Queen and Rook. We must drive the king to the edge of the board or a corner, and of course, we need the help of our own King. In fact, we need the King more actively here, in order to drive the enemy King to the edge of the board, because the Rook cannot do it alone (unlike the Queen). This is our starting point.
The best move here is 1. Ra6! Preventing the King from crossing the sixth rank.
Black moves the King over to attack the White Rook and White starts bringing his King towards the scene of the action. We soon reach the diagram position
There is no cause for alarm. White simply moves the attacked Rook to a safe square along the sixth rank, keeping the Black King restricted, and giving White more time to approach with his own King. White plays Re6. Black has nothing better than to attack the Rook from d7 but White can protect it from d5!
White continues to restrict the Black King and aims for a position similar to that shown on the right.
BEWARE! Just as with the Queen, you must ALWAYS be careful not to take away all the squares from the King while you are hunting it down with the Rook as this could lead to STALEMATE.
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Mating Patterns Recognizing patterns is probably the simplest way of learning how to finish off your opponent. Over the next few pages we introduce you to what should become your lifetime chess friends - basic mating formations. Some of them have quaint and distinctive names which should also help the student to remember them. In our first position $ White delivers checkmate by 1.Rh7# This is called the “Arabian”.
Here we have a variation on the “Arabian” theme $ Black is in check and must play 1...Kf8 (if 1...Kh8 2.Rh7#) and White finishes neatly with 2.Rf7#
This one is called the “epaulette”. $ White mates by 1.Qe6#
Below we illustrate “Anastasia’s Mate” move by move
The starting position
1.Ne7+
1...Kh8
2.Qxh7+!!
2...Kxh7
3.Rh5#
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Mating Patterns continued
Attacking the castled position successfully is all about having more force in the area than the defender. This is well illustrated here $ White threatens 1.Qxh7 checkmate.
Black must play 1...h6. This attacks the Knight but White can ignore this as he has a greater threat.
White captures the f-pawn by 2.Bxf7+. Black plays 2...Kh8. If instead Black plays 2...Rxf7 he loses the Rook to 3.Qxf7+
Again White ignores the threat to his Knight and plays 3.Qg6. This threatens 4.Qh7 checkmate.
Black’s reply is forced. He has to play 3...hxg5 but this opens the h-file with deadly consequences. White delivers checkmate by 4.Qh5# This is known as Greco’s Mate.
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Mating Patterns continued
Damiano’s Mate Commit this position to memory.
Knowledge of the mating pattern shown above will enable the student to carry out checkmate from this position, just by using a little imagination. 1.Rh8+ Kxh8 2.Rh1+ Kg8 3.Rh8+ Kxh8 4.Qh1+ Kg8 5.Qh7#
Morphy’s Mate 1.Qxf6 (threatens 2.Qxg7 mate) gxf6 2.Rg1+ Kh8 3.Bxf6#
Pillsbury’s Mate 1.Rxg7+ Kh8 2.Rg8++ (double-check) Kxg8 3.Rg1#
Morphy’s Mate II 1.Rxg7+ Kh8 2.Rxf7+ (to eliminate a possible block on f6 later) Kg8 3.Rg7+ Kh8 4.Rg6+ Rf6 5.Bxf6#
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Mating Patterns continued Pattern recognition is extremely important when it comes to delivering checkmating positions. Getting familiar with these patterns is an essential step to success. Arabian So called because this typical position was known to the Arabs hundreds of years ago. The Rook can also be on g6—a kind of reflected Arabian pattern well worth noting. White plays 1.Rh7#
Arabian II 1...Kh8 (If instead, 1...Kf8 2.Rf7#) 2.Rh7#
Back-rank Mate No explanation needed.
Epaulette Mate So-called since the Black Rooks are mere ornaments on the shoulders of their King.
Swallow-tail Mate
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Mating Patterns continued Boden’s Mate 1...Qxc3+ 2.bxc3 Ba3# The final position is worth another diagram
Note the power of the two Bishops. The King is caught in a crossfire.
Opera Mate 1.Qb8+ Nxb8 2.Rd8# Once again, the final position is worth another diagram
Dovetail Mate It is highly recommended that you commit all these mating positions to memory , as opportunities to carry these out will arise in your own games.
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Mating Patterns continued Reti’s Mate 1.Qd8+ Kxd8 2.Bg5++ (double-check) Kc7 (If 2...Ke8 2.Rd8 is the Opera Mate)
3.Bd8# An rare and pretty picture
Bishop & Knight Mate There are two versions: Version 1 1.Nxf7++ Kg8 2.Nh6#
This version is the most common.
Version II 1.Nxg6++ Kg8 2.Ne7#
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Mating Patterns continued Blackburne’s Mate 1.Qh3 h5 2.Qxh5 gxh5 3.Bh7#
The final position is worth remembering.
Queen and g-pawn The usual primary threat in this attacking formation is mate on f7. Here Black can meet this with 1...Qf4. However, then comes 2.g7+ and the pawn promotes with check next move. Black’s only hope of defending against this attacking team is a move that guards both f7 and g7 at the same time, which is not possible here.
Rook +Knight + pawn 1.Rd8+ Kf7 (1...Kh7 2.Rh8#) 2.Rf8#
Again, a little investigation will uncover similar, and equally useful variations on many of these patterns. This position can take place anywhere on the board.
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Mating Patterns continued
Mate on g7
Mate on g7 If Black is to play, the most common defence is ...Kh8 and Rg8. There are also common dangers… 1...Kh8 2.Qh6 (Threatens mate at g7) Rg8 3.Re8! See next diagram
White will mate by 4.Qg7# (Note: the Rook at g8 is pinned)
Mate on g7/h7 1.Qh6 Rg8 (intending to play ...Nf8 to protect h7) 2.Qxh7+ Kxh7 3.Rh3#
The final position
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Mating Patterns continued Knight & Bishop (g7 related) 1.Qh6 (Threatens 2.Qxg7#) 1...gxh6 2.Ne7# (or. 2.Nxh6#)
h7 & f7 1.Rh8+ Bxh8 (If 1...Kxh8 then 2.Qh1+ etc.) 2.Qh1
2...Re8 (trying to provide an escape square for the King) 3.Qh7+ Kf8 4.Qxf7#
h-file 1.Qh6 Ne6 (guarding g7) 2.Qxh7+ Kxh7 3.Rh1+ Kg8 4.Rh8#
Final position Remember this arrangement of the pieces.
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Mating Patterns continued H-file 1.Qh4 (Threatening 2.Qh7#) 1...Rd8 (Making room for the King to run)
2.Qh8+ A well-known finish which use the tactical motif known as the xray—White’s Bishop influences h8 “through” the Black Bishop. 2...Bxh8 3.Rxh8#
Two Bishops Mate No comment needed.
Mate in the corner. 1.Qh8+ (luring the King to the corner like a magnet) 1...Kxh8 2.Nf7#
The final position
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Mating Patterns continued Corridor Mate 1.Qxf7+ 1...Rxf7 3.Rc8+ 3...Rf8 4.Rxf8#
Corridor Mate 1.Qxf7+ 1...Rxf7+ 2.Rd8+#
Corridor Mate 1.Qxf7+ Rxf7 2.Rc8+ etc—You must have the hang of it by now!
Corridor Mate Try to solve this one by yourself. Solution 1.Qxf7+ Rxf7 2.Re8# Corridor Mate 1.Qxd7+ Rxd7 2.Re8+ Rd8 3.Rxd8#
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DAMAGING YOUR OPPONENT’S PAWN STRUCTURE Sometimes the opportunity will arise to damage your opponent’s pawns by making one of them isolated, or by splitting them into separate groups called “islands”. This is usually a very good thing to do. In the position shown here ! neither side has any pawn weaknesses. However, White has the opportunity to create pawn weaknesses in Black’s position.
White plays 1.b5! And no matter how Black responds, his pawns will be weakened. Let us examine this in detail: 1.
2. 3.
If Black plays 1...cxb5, then after 2.Bxb5, Black will have three pawn islands, and an isolated pawn on d5. White will have only two pawn islands, and although the pawn on a2 is isolated, it is so difficult for Black to attack that it hardly counts as a weakness. If Black plays 1...c5, then after 2.dxc5 Bxc5, Black’s d-pawn will be isolated, and on an open file as well, which makes it even weaker. If Black ignores White’s b-pawn, then after 2.bxc6 bxc6, Black will again have three pawn islands to White’s two, and the c-pawn will be a backward pawn on an open file.
Here we have another example ! White plays 1.a6! By attacking the b7 pawn, White undermines the c-pawn’s protection. In fact, Black cannot avoid some loss of material after this move.
PAWN ISLANDS Each group of pawns separated by one or more files with no pawns of the same colour is called a “pawn island”. When pawns are connected they can protect each other, when they are not connected they cannot. Therefore, the more pawn islands you have, the weaker your pawns will be. General advice: Try to have as few pawn islands as possible
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OPPOSITION The fight between Kings to determine which one is strongest is called the opposition. Here, both Kings would like to advance but they are placed in a way that prevents their counterpart from doing so. In this type of position it is a disadvantage to have the move since you must then give up control of one of the critical “X” squares and allow the enemy King to advance. With this in mind, we can see that White to move gives Black the opposition since 1. Kd3 allows 1...Kb4, while 1. Kb3 allows 1...Kd4. In both cases, Black’s King is making inroads into White’s position.
This diagram demonstrates the same concept, but in extended form. This is called the distant opposition. The rule is: Whoever is to move when there is an odd number of squares between the Kings does not have the opposition. The reverse is: Whoever is to move when there is an even number of squares between the Kings has the opposition. If they continue to advance towards each other we will arrive at the first diagram position above.
The same rule applies to diagonals. If it is White to move then who has the opposition? The answer is that White does since there is an even number of squares between the Kings. Thus White would play 1. Kb2 which would leave Black on the move with an odd number of squares between the Kings. By now it should not be difficult to determine who has the opposition when the Kings connect on a rank, file, or diagonal. But what if they fail to connect altogether?
Luckily, we have a simple solution! In non-connecting situations the rule is: Move the King to a square or rectangle in which each corner is the same colour. Our next diagram illustrates this.
White has just played 1.Kb2. The connecting points b2, b8, f8, and f2 are all dark squares and form a rectangle. White therefore, has the opposition. Let us test this: Black plays 1...Ke8 (if 1...Kf7 2.Kb3 gives us direct diagonal opposition). 2.Kc2 Kf8 (2...Kd7 3.Kd3, or 2...Kd8 3.Kd2 gives us direct connections) 3.Kd2 Kg8 4.Ke2 Kh8 5.Kf2 Kh7 6.Kf3 Kh8 7.Kf4 and Black can no longer avoid direct connection (7...Kh7 8.Kf5; 7...Kg7 8.Kg5; 7...Kg8 8Kg4. Note that each time someone moves, a new set of connection points are formed.
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King and Pawn Endgames The Queening square is the last square on the file of your passed pawn where it can become a Queen. We call this promotion. In King & pawn endgames you will often need the help of your King. In this position the White King covers the queening square (X) and allows White to safely promote his pawn by 1.d8 = Q
The next two positions are fundamental to your understanding of promotion. In this position it is White to move The Black King has access to the queening square (X) and the White King cannot approach. White may play a check by advancing the pawn, but after the Black King moves to e8 (X) then White will have to give up the pawn or allow stalemate. Either way, it’s a draw.
In the same position it is Black to move Here White wins! What’s the difference? The Black King must move onto the queening square (X). White can then move the pawn forward without check, stopping the Black from returning to d8. The Black is forced out to f7, then White moves the King to c7, controlling the queening square, and is then able to queen the pawn.
This is a pawn sandwich This endgame with a pawn sandwiched between two Kings is drawn. Black can be forced back but as long as he retreats in a straight line along the e-file, White cannot force a win and can only reach the position in our second diagram above. It’s a good idea to practise this.
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More about King and Pawn Endgames Here is the real secret to winning with King & pawn v King. We will refer to this as our Target Position This position is winning for White, no matter whose move it is! Note that White has put his King in front of the pawn. This is the key to success. Let’s see how it works…
With Black to move he might try 1...Kf8 White plays 2.Kd7 controlling the queening square and will promote the pawn.
With White to move it’s also quite simple 1.Kd6 Black must follow with 1...Kd8 (otherwise White will play Kd7 controlling the queening square ). Now White pushes the pawn to e6 reaching a winning position with Black to move. Summary: When trying to queen a pawn with King & pawn against King, make sure you lead with your King!
TRAINING EXERCISE White to move This will show you how to use your King. If you can win this position against better players you are well on your way to being an endgame expert. Two pieces of advice: 1. 2.
Remember our Target position, that wins no matter whose move it is? Don’t allow a pawn sandwich.
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The Passed Pawn When there are no longer any opposing pawns that can block a pawn, or that control any of the squares between the pawn and the 8th rank, we say that the pawn is “passed”. This term means that the pawn has “passed” all of the opposing pawns. In the middlegame it’s hard to promote a passed pawn, but in the endgame the once humble pawn comes into its own as it marches forward towards the queening square.
Pawn Majority When a larger number of pawns faces a smaller number of pawns, we call it a pawn majority. When you have a pawn majority it is possible to make a passed pawn. In Diagram A below, each side has a pawn majority on one side of the board. White has a majority on the queenside, while Black has a majority on the kingside. However, White’s pawns are much farther advanced than Black’s, so White is much better placed to make a passed pawn. Let’s see how he does it, move by move. DIAGRAM A
White plays 2. cxb6
White plays 1. b6
Black plays 1. Rb7
Black plays 1... cxb6
White plays 1. Ke6
White wins by using his active King to drive away the Black rook and advancing the b-pawn. Black cannot defend and must lose.
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The Outside Passed Pawn The outside passed pawn is a passed pawn far removed to the kingside or the queenside. It is called “outside” because it is outside the main theatre of action, where most of the pieces are. In the endgame, the outside passed pawn can be a definite advantage. There are two reasons for this: 1. 2.
Because it is so far away, it’s harder for the defender to get over and stop it from advancing. We saw an example of this in our last lesson. Even if the defender can get over to stop the pawn, he will usually find that the pawn was acting as a decoy, in order to lure his pieces away (usually the King). We see a simple example of this below: White plays 1. a6
Position after 1.a6 Kc6
Position after 1...Kc6 2. Ke5
Because the Black king had to move over to the queenside to catch the outside passed pawn, the kingside pawns are left defenceless to the White king.
The Protected Passed Pawn A protected passed pawn is simply a passed pawn that is protected by another pawn. In this example, shown in Diagram B below, both sides have a pawn majority but only Black has a protected passed pawn. Because the pawn is protected, White can’t attack it with his king. If White’s king ever goes beyond the fourth rank, Black will play 1...b3 and make a queen, so therefore the White king can never attack Black’s queenside pawns. This severely restricts the White king and gives Black a winning advantage.
Diagram B
White plays 2. g5
Black plays 1...f5
If 2. Kc2 fxg4 3.hxg4 h5!
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King and pawn Endgames—The Exceptions As player gains more experience he will discover that a Rook pawn will often provide exceptions to the rules that we normally take for granted. Usually such a fine King position would guarantee a win for White. In this case however, Black will have no difficulty in drawing because he cannot be flushed out of the corner. For example, 1.h4 Kg8 2.h5 Kh8 3.Kg6 Kg8 4.h6 Kh8 5.h7 Stalemate.
Here’s another strange Rook pawn result. Black, who has no material at all, stalemates the stronger side. 1.h6 Kf8 2.Kh8 Kf7 3.h7 Kf8 Stalemate. It is clear that the opposition doesn’t mean much when the only remaining pawn is a Rook pawn. White must control the queening square and avoid having his King trapped in the corner if he hopes to win.
King, “Rook’s pawn,” and “Wrong-Coloured Bishop” This position is either tragic or comic, depending on your point of view. Surely Black should resign. But no: White can’t win even all his extra material! The problem is that White can’t force the King out of the corner with just the King and pawn because even if he takes the opposition, Black will be stalemated. The Bishop is of no help, because it is the “Wrong-Coloured Bishop,” that is, the Bishop doesn’t control the queening square.
This diagram shows a typical position that might arise if White tries to win. White can advance the pawn to h7, but he can’t force the King out of the corner. The best he can do is give stalemate. But don’t think that having a Bishop and a pawn always leads to a draw! These very special conditions must exist: 1. The pawn is a Rook’s pawn i.e. an a-pawn or an h-pawn 2. The Bishop does not control the queening square (corner) 3. The enemy King can occupy the corner square
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Safety of the King The King is the most valuable piece in chess, therefore you need to think about his safety as early as possible. The safest place is usually the one the King occupies after castling, where he is under the cover of his pawns and the protection of his light pieces. Locating the King in the centre is less reliable because this is where the main clashes of the game occur most often. So if you don't want your King to be exposed to needless danger, take care of him and castle early. For this purpose the light pieces must enter the game as soon as possible, and the pawns must move as little as possible, especially on that flank where you intend to castle. You can choose between two possibilities: castle short or castle long. When you make your choice, please bear in mind the following: Firstly, determine whether you want to play with one sided castling (when both partners castle on the same flank) or opposite castling (when they withdraw the kings on different flanks). If you prefer to attack and sharp play with combinations and sacrifices, castle to the side which is opposite to that of the enemy.
If you like more strategic play, you should choose positions with castling on the same side.
Secondly, it is necessary to mention that protecting the King is more compromised when castling long, for the a-pawn is not protected by the King and the c-pawn is not protected by the Rook. After castling short, however, the h-pawn turns out to be protected by the King and the f-pawn by King and Rook together.
Thus the line of defence when castling long is a bit extended. To consolidate the position, it is a good idea to waste a tempo for a move by the King (to b8 for Black, to b1 for White).
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Pawn Cover of the King The importance of castling and what can happen with the King if it is not brought into safety in time, has been discussed earlier. Here we shall consider the Pawn cover of the King after castling. The Pawn arrangement around the King is of great strategic importance. Carelessly moving the Pawns can put in doubt all your plans. Therefore it is very important to know about the pros and cons of the various configurations of the King's Pawn cover as well as about typical tactical threats and combinational tools. Kinds of Pawn cover Pawns in their initial positions are considered to cover the King best, as they protect all neighbouring squares (e3, f3, g3, h3 for White's short castling, a3, b3, c3, d3 for White's long castling), which makes it more difficult for the attacker to exchange Pawns and break open files for his Rooks.
However the arrangement of Pawns in a line also has its drawbacks, for example it is frequently necessary to take into account checkmate threats on the last (first) rank and piece sacrifices on the h2- or g2-squares.
Any advance of these Pawns usually weakens the castled position, and since the Pawns cannot move back, this weakness is irreparable and long lasting. Take a look at the following diagram:
The plus of this structure consists in the fact that the King has an empty h2-square to escape to (a so-called 'hole'). Thus he does not have to be afraid of the checkmate on the first rank (unless the h2point is controlled, that is).
Continued on next page
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Pawn Cover of the King (continued) However, the structure has some minuses as well. The h3-Pawn is a good target for tactical blows. For example, there are situations when the attacker can sacrifice a piece for two edge Pawns ('g' and 'h') thereby destroying the King's cover. And if the opponent attacks along the b8-h2-diagonal, the barrier g2-g3 with a Pawn on h3 will be less reliable than with a Pawn on h2. When you make a move with the g-Pawn, there arises a Pawn arrangement similar to a 'wedge'. Such an advance can be both voluntary (say, to develop or fianchetto a Bishop) and forced (e.g. to protect against a diagonal attack on the h2-Pawn). In both cases it results in a significant weakening of the f3- and h3-squares as well as the diagonals a8-h1 and f1-h3.
However if there is a fianchettoed Bishop on g2 protecting the weaknesses, the castling position usually is quite safe, though it must be taken into account that, in order to weaken the squares and diagonals mentioned above, the opponent often strives to exchange this piece.
The f-Pawn is pushed ahead no less often. In this case the g1-a7-diagonal and especially the e3-square are weakened. Another defect is that the Pawn on f3 occupies the square which is more suitable for the Knight.
At the same time the placement of the Pawn on f3 is a positive factor in the endgame, as it allows the King to reach the centre quicker.
There are situations when two Pawns are advanced - f3 and h3. Then the whole complex of squares near the King is weak. In these cases attacks along the a7-g1- and b8-h2-diagonals are especially dangerous.
As if that were not bad enough there is also a 'hole' on the g3-square, which frequently is a very convenient outpost for the opponent's attacking pieces.
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Pawn Cover of the King (continued) The Pawn cover of the King can include doubled Pawns, which can be both rather strong and hopelessly weak. For example, the following doubled Pawns provide a rather reliable barrier for the King:
But these barriers also have their weaknesses: in the first case it is the open hfile, in the second the open a7-g1diagonal.
Doubled isolated Pawns arising after an exchange on the squares f3 or h3 are especially unpleasant for the defensive side. Such Pawns are not only weak in themselves, but in addition expose the g-file, the a8-h1-diagonal and the f3-square as in the first diagram, and the g-file and the h3-square in the second diagram:
Finally, the King's pawns can also look like a 'chain'. Such cover is considered to be very weakened too, as the a8-h1-, a7-g1- and h3-f1-diagonals are open, and the f3-, g4- and h3squares are easily accessible for the opponent's pieces:
In both cases the advanced Pawns can be easily attacked by the opposite side. On top of that, the position in the left diagram has a weakened 2nd rank.
The configuration of the King's Pawn cover is one of the main factors you should take into account when choosing your offensive strategy, for example in view of the handling of your attacking pieces - which of them should be exchanged, which of them can be left etc.
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Ten Top Tips to Winning Chess It's time for you to take a look at these ten tips to help you learn some simple ways to win more games: 1. Look at your opponent's move. 2. Make the best possible move. 3. Have a plan. 4. Know what the pieces are worth. 5. Develop quickly and well. 6. Control the centre. 7. Keep your king safe. 8. Know when to trade pieces. 9. Think about the endgame. 10. Always be alert. Don't rush. Take your time and be sure to study the examples carefully. Then go out and practice - and have some fun! If you have trouble reading chess notation, look at "How to Read and Write Chess Notation." 1. Look at your opponent's move! Every time your opponent makes a move, you should stop and think: Why was that move chosen? Is a piece in danger? Are there any other threats I should watch out for? What sort of plan does my opponent have in mind? Only by defending against your opponent's threats will you be able to successfully carry out your own strategies. Once you figure out what your opponent is attempting to do, you can play to nip those plans in the bud. 2. Make the best possible move. When you are considering a move, ask yourself these questions: a. Will the piece I'm moving go to a better square than the one it's on now? b. Can I improve my position even more by increasing the effectiveness of a different piece? c. Does this move help to defend against my opponent's threats? d. Will the piece I move be safe on its new square? i. If it's a pawn, consider: Can I keep it protected from attack? ii. If it's another piece, consider: Can the enemy drive it away, thus making me lose valuable time? Even if your intended move has good points, it may not be the best move at that moment. Emanuel Lasker, a former world champion, said: "When you see a good move, wait---look for a better one!" Following this advice is bound to improve your chess. 3. Have a plan. If you threaten something here in one move, something over there in the next move, and so forth, your opponent will have an easy time defending. Your pieces have to work together to be effective. Just imagine each instrument in an orchestra playing a different tune! When you develop a plan, your men can work in harmony. For example, you might plan to attack your opponent's king; one piece alone probably wouldn't be able to
%$ do much, but the combined strength of several pieces makes a powerful attacking force. Another plan could be taking control of all the squares in a particular area of the board. The chess men are your "team"; to be a good "coach," you have to use all of their strengths together. 4. Know what the pieces are worth. When you are considering giving up some of your pieces for some of your opponent's, you should think about the values of the men, and not just how many each player possesses. The player whose men add up to a greater value will usually have the advantage. So a crucial step in making decisions is to add up the material, or value, of each player's men. The pawn is the least valuable piece, so it is a convenient unit of measure. It moves slowly, and can never go backward. Knights and bishops are approximately equal, worth about three pawns each. The knight is the only piece that can jump over other men. The bishops are speedier, but each one can reach only half the squares. A rook moves quickly and can reach every square; its value is five pawns. A combination of two minor pieces (knights and bishops) can often subdue a rook. A queen is worth nine pawns, almost as much as two rooks. It can move to the greatest number of squares in most positions. The king can be a valuable fighter, too, but we do not evaluate its strength because it cannot be traded. 5. Develop quickly and well. Time is a very important element of chess. The player whose men are ready for action sooner will be able to control the course of the game. If you want to be that player, you have to develop your men efficiently to powerful posts. Many inexperienced players like to move a lot of pawns at the beginning of the game to control space on the chessboard. But you can't win with pawns alone! Since knights, bishops, rooks, and queens can move farther than pawns and threaten more distant targets, it's a good idea to bring them out soon, after you've moved enough pawns to guarantee that your stronger pieces won't be chased back by your opponent's pawns. After all the other pieces are developed, it's easier to see what pawns you should move to fit in with your plans. It's tempting to bring the queen out very early, because it's the most powerful piece. But your opponent can chase your queen back by threatening it with less valuable pieces. Instead of just moving pieces out, try to determine the best square for each piece and bring it there in as few moves as possible. This may save you from wasting moves later in the game. 6. Control the centre. In many cases, the person who controls the four squares at the centre of the board will have the better game. There are simple reasons for this. First, a piece in the centre controls more of the board than one that is somewhere else. As an example, place one knight on a centre square and another in one of the corners of the board. The knight in the centre can move to eight different squares, while the "cornered" one only has two possible moves! Second, control of the centre provides an avenue for your pieces to travel from one side of the board to the other. To move a piece across the board, you will often have to take it through the centre. If your pieces can get to the other side faster than your opponent's pieces, you will often be able to mount a successful attack there before he can bring over enough pieces to defend.
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7. Keep your king safe. Everyone knows that the object of the game is to checkmate the opponent's king. But sometimes a player thinks about his own plans so much that he forgets that his opponent is also king hunting! It's generally a good idea to place your king in a safe place by castling early in the game. Once you've castled, you should be very careful about advancing the pawns near your king. They are like bodyguards; the farther away they go, the easier it is for your opponent's pieces to get close to your king. (For this reason, it's often good to try to force your opponent to move the pawns near his king.) We've learned many important objectives: advantage in material, better development, control of the centre, and now king safety. Which of these is the most important? 8. Know when to exchange pieces. The best time to trade men is when you can capture men worth more than the ones you will be giving up, which is called "winning material" (see tip 4, "Know what the men are worth"). But the opportunity to do this may not arise if your opponent is very careful. Since you will probably have many chances to exchange men on an "even" basis, it's useful to know when you should or shouldn't do this. There are several important considerations. As a general rule, if you have the initiative (your pieces are better developed, and you're controlling the game), try not to exchange men unless it increases your advantage in some clear way. The fewer men each player has, the weaker the attacking player's threats become, and the easier it is for the defending side to meet these threats. Another time not to trade pieces is when your opponent has a cramped position with little space for the pieces to maneuver. It's tough to move a lot of pieces around in a cramped position, but easier to move just a few. One sort of advantage you can often gain by trading pieces is a weakening of your opponent's pawn structure. If, for example, you can capture with a piece that your opponent can only recapture in a way that will give him "doubled pawns". it will often be to your advantage to make that trade. The player who is ahead in material will usually benefit from trades. It's sort of like basketball or soccer; five players will sometimes have trouble scoring against four opposing players, but take away three from each side and the stronger team will find it easier to score with two players against one. So, to summarize: It's usually good to trade pieces if your opponent has the initiative, if you have a cramped position, if you can weaken your opponent's pawn structure, or if you are ahead in material. There are exceptions, of course, but following these rules should bring you considerable success. 9. Think about the endgame. From the time the game begins, you should remember that every move you make may affect your chances in the endgame. For instance, in the earlier parts of the game, a knight and a bishop are about equally powerful. Toward the end of the game, though, when there are fewer men in the way, the bishop can exert its influence in all parts of the board at once, while the knight still takes a long time to get anywhere. So before you trade a bishop for a knight, think not just about the next few moves but also about the endgame.
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Pawn structure is crucial in the endgame. When you capture one of your opponent's men with a pawn, you'll often create an open file that will help your rooks and queen to reach your opponent's side of the board, but you may also get doubled pawns. Since doubled pawns cannot defend each other, they are a liability in the endgame. If your opponent survives the middlegame, you may have an uphill fight later. Concentrate on your immediate plans, as well as your opponent's---but always keep the endgame in mind! 10. Always be alert. There is a tendency for people to relax once they have reached a good position or to give up hope if their position is very bad. These attitudes are natural, but both lead to bad results. Many players---even world champions---have achieved winning positions, only to lose because they relaxed too soon. Even the best position won't win by itself; you have to give it some help! In almost any position, the "losing" player will still be able to make threats. The "winning" player has to be alert enough to prevent these positions. Advice: If you have a better position, watch out! One careless move could throw away your hard-won advantage. Even as you're carrying out your winning plans, you must watch out for your opponent's threats. Conversely, if you have a worse position, don't give up! Keep making strong moves, and try to complicate the position as much as possible. If your opponent slips, you may get the chance to make a comeback. Remember: Where there's life, there's hope.
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How to be a Better Chess Player Extract from “Chess is Easy IV” This is intended first of all for those who already are well acquainted with the rules of the game, have some practical chess experience and would now like to study the basics of chess strategy. Usually beginners and intermediate chess players are much better acquainted with tactics than with the strategy of the game. In comparison with tactics, strategy is a much more complex and consequently less investigated section of chess theory. Therefore it would be very desirable before starting to study it to know how to calculate variations, carry out simple combinations and play elementary endings. So what is chess strategy anyway? And what is the difference between strategy and tactics? The following skills are essential for success in chess: you have to be able to calculate variations exactly, find combinations quickly, correctly estimate a position and make a plan of the game. The calculating and combinational abilities belong to tactics, whereas the skill of assessing the resulting positions and making an appropriate plan is the essence of strategy. The founder of the scientific approach to chess was the first World Champion Wilhelm Steinitz. One of the main theses of his theory says that the chess player should make a plan of the game taking as a basis the objective estimation of a position. And this estimation, in turn, should be based on a number of attributes developed by the experience of many thousands of games. Some of the attributes were selected by Steinitz more than a century ago. Most of them have passed the test of time and were modified by other outstanding chess players of the past and present. Today these attributes are called the elements of chess strategy. These elements are: 1. The centre. 2. Development and arrangement of pieces. 3. Pawn structure. 4. Strong and weak squares and points. 5. Open lines and diagonals. 6. Advantage of the bishop pair. 7. Position of the King.
Opening Strategy Just as a house begins with the foundation, any game begins with the opening. The opening is the basis on which the whole chess building leans. A well-played opening is a precondition for success in the middlegame. And on the contrary, mistakes at the beginning of the game can result in a fast and unexpected defeat. What is necessary in order to avoid these mistakes? Certainly, it would be good to know all basic opening variations, which you want to play. However today their quantity is so great (and it is on the increase) that a lot of time for their study is required. The simplest way to avoid trouble from the first move of the game is to follow certain playing rules. The following strategic principles form the basis of these rules:
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Struggle for the Centre
Fast Development of Pieces
Following these principles you can get a good position even in variations you are not familiar with. Let's consider these principles separately. Struggle for the Centre The first strategic concept the beginner has to make himself familiar with is the sense and role of the centre. The centre is a part of the board consisting of four squares - e4, d4, d5, e5. The so-called "extended centre" includes 16 squares.
Why is such a great attention paid to this particular sector of the board? There are three reasons. 1. Pieces standing there control a maximum number of squares and have maximum mobility and scope (the Queen can keep under attack 27 squares as compared to 21 squares when it stands in a corner; the Bishop, correspondingly, 13 and 7; the Knight 8 and 2). 2. Pieces can be transferred easier and faster to any flank where their help is required. 3. If one side is in possession of the centre, the opponent's forces are in most cases disconnected or limited in their fighting efficiency. In chess the centre plays almost the same role as an elevation (high ground) at any sector of the front during a battle. The side that holds such a point has a strategic advantage and all preconditions for successfully completing a military operation. There are two basic strategies in the struggle for the centre. The first strategy is to seize and hold the centre from the beginning of the game. According to the second one you can consciously concede the centre, allowing the opponent to seize it, and only then begin to undermine it. There are openings, which realise the first strategy, and there are openings with the second one. Which strategy is better? That is a matter of taste. Both of them are applied in today's chess practice very actively. For more extensive coverage of this and other topics see — ”Chess is Easy IV” .
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