CHAPTER 9: Rizals Grand Tour of Europe with Viola (1887) After the publication of the Noli, Rizal planned to visit important places in Europe. Maximo Viola agreed to be his traveling companion. Rizal had received Pacianos remittance of P 1,000 which was forwarded by Juan Luna from Paris. He immediately paid Viola the sum of P300 which the latter kindly loaned so that the Noli could be printed. They first visited Potsdam, a city near Berlin.
Figure
1: Maximo Viola
Figure
3: Dr. Adolf Meyer, director of the Dresden Museum
Figure 4:
Figure
2: Rizal's trail in Germany
German scientisttraveler, author of "Travels in the Philippines"
THE TOUR BEGINS
At dawn of May 11, 1887, Rizal and Viola left Berlin by train. Their destination was Dresden, one of the best cities in Germany. DRESDEN
Their visit coincided with the regional floral exposition. He studied the numerous plant varities of extraordinary beauty and size. They also visited Dr. Adolph B. Meyer. In the Museum of Art, which they also visited, Rizal was deeply impressed by a painting of Prometheus Bound. They met Dr. Jagor while strolling at the scene of the Floral Exposition. Teschen (now Decin, Czechoslovakia) was their next stopover after leaving Dresden. Rizal and Viola sent a wire to Blumentritt, as per suggestion of Dr. Jagor.
FIRST
MEETING WITH BLUMENTRITT
At 1:30 p.m. of May 13, 1887, the train, with Rizal and Viola on board, arrived at the railroad station of Leitmeritz, Bohemia. Professor Blumentritt, who had received the wire, was at the station carrying a pencil sketch of Rizal which the letter had previously sent him, so that he could identify his Filipino friend. Professor Blumentritt, the genial host, helped Rizal and Viola get a room at Hotel Krebs, after which he brought them to his home and introduced them to his wife and family. Figure
5: Professor Ferdinand Blumentritt
BEAUTIFUL MEMORIES OF LEITMERITZ
Rizal enjoyed the warm hospitality of the Blumentritt family. The professors wife Rosa was a good cook. His children were Dolores (called Dora or Dorita by Rizal), Conrad and Fritz Blumentritt proved to be a great tourist guide as well as a hospitable host. He showed the scenic and historical spots of Leitmeritz to his visitors. One afternoon he invited them to a beer garden where the best beer of Bohemia was served. At a near table there was a lively discussion among the drinkers about advisability of having the railroad pass through a neighboring town. One of the men in the group was the burgomaster (town mayor) of that town; Blumentritt knew the burgomaster, so that he approached the party and delightfully introduced his two Filipino friends. Rizal talked in fluent German. The Figure
6: Blumentritt's home
burgomaster asked Rizal how long it took him to learn German. And Rizal replied: Eleven months, sir. The burgomaster was further
amazed, and in great admiration, he lauded the privileged talent of Rizal. Blumentritt embraced Rizal, telling him that few Germans could speak well their own language as Rizal could. On another afternoon Rizal and Viola were invited to a meeting of the Tourists Club of Leitmeritz, of which Blumentritt was the secretary. Rizal, desiring to commemorate his happy hours at the Blumentritt home, painted a portrait of the kind professor and gave it to him. Blumentritt was pleased with the gift. It was during his visit to Leitmeritz when
Figure
7: The former Hotel Kreb.
Rizal met another renowned scientist of Europe, Dr. Carlos
Czepelak.
Blumentritt
brought
him
to
Czepelaks home. Blumentritt also introduced Rizal to Professor Robert Klutschak, an eminent naturalist. On their last night in Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola,
to
reciprocate
Blumentritts
hospitality,
tendered a banquet - a farewell dinner in his honor at their hotel. On May 16, at 9:45 A.M., Rizal and Viola left Figure
Leitmeritz by train. Blumentritt, his wife and children
8: Leitmeritz railroad station at present
were at the railroad station to see them off, and they all shed tears in parting as the train slowly departed. Rizal carried unto his grave the beautiful memories of his visit to Leitmeritz. In a letter to Blumentritt, written in Vienna on May 24, 1887, Rizal expressed his and Violas concern for the illness of Dora, the professors little daughter. PRAGUE
After Leitmeritz, Rizal and Viola visited the historic city of Prague. They carried letters of recommendation from Blumentritt to Dr. Willkomm, professor of natural history in the University of Prague. The good professor and his charming wife and daughters welcomed them and showed them the citys historic spots. Figure
9: National Museum of Prague or the Museum of Natural History
Rizal and Viola visited the tomb of Copernicus, the famous astronomer; the museum of the natural history; the bacteriological laboratories; the famous cave where San Juan Nepumoceno, the Catholic saint, was imprisoned; and the bridge from which this saint was hurled into the river. After saying good-bye to Professor Willkomm and his family the two tourists went to Brunn. According to Viola, nothing of importance happened in this city. VIENNA
On May 20, Rizal and Viola arrived in the beautiful city of Vienna, capital of Austria-Hungary. Famous in song and story, this city fascinated Rizal because of its beautiful buildings, was truly the Queen of Danube.
Rizal
and
Viola,
armed
with
the
letter
of
recommendation from Blumentritt, met Norfenfals, one of the greatest novelist in Europe during that time. This great Austrian novelist was favorably impressed by Rizal, and years later he spoke highly of Rizal, whose genius he so much admired. In Vienna, Rizal received his lost diamond stickpin. It was found by a maid in Hotel Krebs and was given to Blumentritt, who, in turn, forwarded it to Rizal in Vienna. Figure
10: Rizal's trail in Austria
Rizal
and Viola stayed at Hotel Metropole. They visited the citys interesting places. They met two good friends of Blumentritt Masner and Nordmann, Austrian scholars. DANUBIAN VOYAGE OF LINTZ
Figure 11: Hotel Metropole, 1893
On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see the beautiful sights of Danube River. As they traveled along the famous river, Rizal observed keenly the river sights-the barges loaded with products, the flower and plants growing along the river banks, the boats with families living on them, and the quaint villages on the riversides. He particularly noticed that the passengers on the river boat were using paper napkins during the meals, which was a novelty to him. His fellow passenger, Viola commented that the paper napkin were more hygienic and economical than cloth napkins. FROM Figure
12: Historic town of Linz beside Danube River
LINTZ TO RHEINFALL
The river voyage ended in Linz. They traveled overland to Salzburg, and from there to
Munich where they sojourned for a short time to savior the famous Munich beer, reputed to be the best in Germany. From Munich, they went to Nuremberg, one of the oldest cities of Germany. Among the sights which they saw in this city were the horrible torture machines used by the Inquisition. He and Viola were impressed by the manufacture of dolls which was the biggest industry of the city.
After Munich, they visited Ulm. The cathedral of this city was the largest and tallest in all Germany. Viola related that he and Rizal climbed its many hundred steps. From Ulm, they went to Struttgart, Baden, and Rheinfall (Cascade of the Rhine). At Rheinfall, they saw the waterfall, the most beautiful waterfall of Europe.
Figure
14: The old view of Cascades of the Rhine. Figure 13: Ulm Cathedral, worlds
tallest church spire at height of 161 m. with its 768 steps.
CROSSING THE FRONTIER TO SWITZERLAND
From
the
Rheinfall,
they
crossed the frontier to Schaffhausen, Switzerland. They stayed in this city from
June
2
to
3,
1887.
They
continued their tour to Basel (Bale), Bern, and Lausanne.
Figure
15: Rizal's trail in Switzerland
GENEVA
After sightseeing in Lausanne, Rizal and Viola left on a little boat, crossing the foggy Leman Lake to Geneva. This Swiss city is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, visited by world tourists every year. The people of Geneva were linguists, speaking French, German, and Italian. Rizal conversed with them in these three languages. On June 19, 1887, Rizal treated Viola to a blow-out. It was his Figure 16: Hotel Müller, located at
Bahnhofstrasse 28, where Dr. Rizal took lodging during his visit to Schaffhausen on June 2-3, 1887.
th
26 birthday. According to a Filipino custom, he celebrated his birthday with a sumptuous meal. Rizal and Viola spent fifteen delightful days in Geneva. On June 23, they parted ways Viola returned to Barcelona
while Rizal continued the tour to Italy.
Figure 17: 1887 Madrid Exposition, the
Igorots
Figure
18: Lake Geneva which also called Lac Leman in French, is the largest of the lakes near Alps
EXHIBITION OF IGOROTS IN 1887 MADRID RIZAL RESENTS EXPOSITION
While Rizal, accompanied by Dr. Viola, was happily touring Europe, and Exposition of the Philippines was held in Madrid, Spain. Upon reaching Geneva (Switzerland), he received sad news from his friends in Madrid of the deplorable conditions of the primitive Igorots who were exhibited in this exposition, some of whom died, and whose scanty clothing (G-strings) and crude weapons were objects of mockery and laughter by the Spanish people and press. Being champion of human dignity, Rizal was outraged by this degradation of his fellow countrymen, the Igorots of Northern Luzon. RIZAL IN ITALY
From Geneva, Rizal went to Italy. He visited Turin, Milan, Venice, and Florence. On June 27, 1887, he reached Rome, the Eternal City and also called the City of the Caesars. th
On June 29 , the Feast Day of St. Peter and St. Paul, Rizal visited for the first time the Vatican, the City of Popes and the capital of Christendom Every night, after sightseeing the whole day, Rizal returned to his hotel, very tired. I am tired as a dog, he wrote to Blumentritt, but I will sleep as a god.
Figure
19: Vatican Museum at present time
After a week of wonderful sojourn in Rome, he prepared to return to the Philippines. He had already written to his father that he was coming home. Reference: Jose Rizal: Life, Works and Writings of a Writer, Scientist and National Hero by G.F. Zaide and S.M. Zaide http://www.mina-gerd-kraemer.homepage.t-online.de/rht/homepage_rht.html
WRITTEN REPORT
Chapter 9
RIZALS GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE WITH VIOLA (1887)
Submitted by: Acidre, Hazel Bisonia, Jean Erika
Submitted to: Prof . J. Sanchez
