Cblm_Install Built-In and or Pre-fabricated Cabinets

COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Sector:

CONSTRUCTION

Qualification Title:

CARPENTRY NC III

Unit of Competency: Module Title:

INSTALL BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS

Technical Education and Skills Development Authority Jacobo Z. Gonzales Memorial School of Arts and Trades San Antonio, Biñan City

Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM

Install Built-In/PreFabricated Cabinets

Date Developed: October 22, 2010 Developed by: Glenn F. Salandanan

Document No. Issued by:

Page 1 of 123 Revision # ____

HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL Welcome to the module in Developing Competency-Based Learning Materials. This module contains training materials and activities for you to complete. You are required to go through a series of learning activities in order to complete each learning outcome of the module. In each learning outcome are Information Sheets, Self-Checks, Operation Sheets and Job Sheets. Follow these activities on your own. If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask your facilitator for assistance. The goal of this course is the development of practical skills. To gain these skills, you must leam basic concepts and terminology. For the most part, you'll get this information from the Information Sheets and TESDA Website, www.tesda.gov.ph This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency, in "Developing Competency-Based Learning Materials". This will be the source of information for you to acquire knowledge and skills in this particular competency independently and at your own pace, with minimum supervision or help from your instructor. Remember to: Work through all the information and complete the activities in each section. Read information sheets and complete the self-check. Suggested references are included to supplement the materials provided in this module. Most probably your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager. He/she is there to support you and show you the correct way to do things. You will be given plenty of opportunity to ask questions and practice on the job. Make sure you practice your new skills during regular work shifts. This way you will improve both your speed and memory and also your confidence. Use the Self-checks, Operation Sheets or Job Sheets at the end of each section to test your own progress. When you feel confident that you have had sufficient practice, ask your Trainer to evaluate you. The results of your assessment will be recorded in your Progress Chart and Accomplishment Chart. You need to complete this module before developing the CBLM of the Learning Outcomes assigned to you. Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





MODULE CONTENT UNIT OF COMPETENCY

:INSTALL BUILT-IN/PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS

MODULE TITLE

:INSTALLING BUILT-IN/PREFABRICATED CABINETS

MODULE DESCRIPTOR :

This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitude in preparing materials, tools and equipment for installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated cabinets, fabricating/assembling built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet, assembling and installing built-in and prefabricate cabinet components.

NOMINAL DURATION

:

40 hrs.

CERTIFICATE LEVEL

:

NC III

PREREQUISITE

:

LEARNING OUTCOMES: Upon completion of this module, the trainee/student must be able to: Prepare materials, tools and equipment for installing built-in and/or prefabricated cabinets; Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet ; and, Assemble and install built-in and pre-fabricate cabinet components.






ASSESSMENT CRITERIA: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted according to job requirements Materials, tools and equipment are identified and prepared consistent with job requirements Materials are re-checked for correct specifications to ensure that they are free from defects; otherwise defects are reported to immediate supervisor for appropriate action Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules and regulations Appropriate PPE is selected according to safety standards and regulations Cabinet location is identified from working drawings and specifications Cabinet components are fabricated and/or pre-fabricated cabinets are prepared/assembled according to working drawings and specifications Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and regulations Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety regulations Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are set-out in accordance with working drawings and specifications Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are installed in accordance with working drawings and specifications Finishing hardwares are installed as per working drawings Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and regulations Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety regulations






LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 1

Prepare materials, tools and equipment for installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated cabinets

CONTENTS: • • • •

Millwork Drawing Materials and specification Different types of wood defects Classification of hand tools & equipment and their uses

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA 1. Plans and details are correctly identified and interpreted according to job requirements 2. Materials, tools and equipment are identified and prepared consistent with job requirements 3. Materials are re-checked for correct specifications to ensure that they are free from defects; otherwise defects are reported to immediate supervisor for appropriate action 4. Unexpected situations are dealt with according to company rules and regulations 5. Appropriate PPE is selected according to safety standards and regulations CONDITIONS: You must be provided with the following: • WORKPLACE LOCATION • Hand Saw • TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • • • • • •

•

Hammer Marking Tools Measuring Tools Nylon String Steel Square Try-square

• • • • • •

Chalk Line Water Hose Level Plumb Bob Hand Saw PPE Circular Saw

TRAINING MATERIALS • • • • •

Leaning Packages Bond paper Ball pens Manuals Related References

ASSESSMENT METHOD •

Portfolio






Learning Experience PREPARE MATERIALS, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT FOR INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS Learning Activities 1. Read Information Sheet No. 4.1-1 on Millwork 2. Answer Self-Check No. 4.1-1 3. Read Information Sheet No. 4.1-2 on Materials and Specifications 4. Answer Self-Check No. 4.1-2 5. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.1-2 on Rechecking Material for correct specifications 6. Read Information Sheet No. 4.1-3 on Different Types of Wood Defects 7. Answer Self-Check No. 4.1-3 8. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.1-3 on Types of Defects

Special Instructions Compare your answer to the answer key

Compare your answer to the answer key Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities

Compare your answer to the answer key Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities

9. Read Information Sheet No. 4.1-4 on Classification of Hand Tools & Equipment and their Uses 10. Answer Self-Check Compare your answer to the answer key No. 4.1-4






INFORMATION SHEET 4.1-1 MILLWORK DRAWINGS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to IDENTIFY PLANS AND WORKING DRAWINGS The term millwork refers to custom; shop-built, wood components designed for interior finish construction. It is typical to both residential and commercial work. The project interior designer or architect designs and then produces the drawings for such items. They are included in the set of construction drawings for the job. Each item designed for a project is detailed. A plan view, a front elevation (view), rear elevation, side elevations, sections and enlarged details explain the design. Dimensions and notes are added to describe construction and finishes.

Figure 1. Millwork drawing

Some project only requires a few fixtures. The detailing of these will often be incorporated into other pages of the construction drawings. Trim is shown on interior wall elevations with the desired profile provided. A floor fixture might be detailed on the same page as the plan or on another drawing.






Projects, which involve many items, will require several pages to cover them all. These drawings pages are usually grouped together and included at the end of the architectural set of drawings. Drawing notes and finish schedules provide specify the type, solid or plywood veneer, maple, pine, oak, etc. and the finish. The following is an example of a millwork drawing. The drawing has been reduced to fit on this page. It is only to provide an overview, not to shown any specific information.

Figure 2. Millwork drawing with finish schedule

Some typical notes on a millwork drawing are: 1. 3/ 4” thick plywood gable with p. lam. finish (symbol) applied to all surfaces and edges 2. 3/4” thick melamine (symbol) adjustable shelves with matching finish applied to all edges 3. metal pilaster strips c/w metal shelf clips (4) per shelf 3/4” thick plywood door with p. lam. finish (symbol) c/w concealed hinges and 3” satin chrome ‘D’ pull 4. 3/4” thick oak veneer plywood end gable (symbol) Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





5. Shop drawings must be provided for approval by the designer prior to manufacturing The symbol shown in the notes above represents where a finish symbol is placed. These finish symbols such, as “PL-1” in a rectangle is a reference. A specification is listed for each in a Finish Schedule. The specification is by manufacturer, model number, color, size, etc, or as required to describe the item.






SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-1 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ IDENTIFICATION. Study the drawing of a built-in cabinet illustrated below. Identify what is being ask from the drawing by writing your answer on the space provided.

1. Maximum height of the countertop in millimeter 2. Height of utility outlet from center line 3. Width of adjustable countertop from back of knee space in millimeter 4. Material used in frame (typical section) 5. Backsplash height in milimeter






ANSWER KEY NO. 4.1-1 Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. Maximum height of the countertop in millimeter

940 mm

2. Height of utility outlet from center line

4 inches

3. Width of adjustable countertop from back of knee space in millimeter

555 mm

4. Material used in frame (typical section)

Steel tubular frame

5. Backsplash height in milimeter

175 mm






INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2 MATERIALS AND SPECIFICATION Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to IDENTIFY MATERIALS CONSISTENT TO JOB REQUIREMENTS. INTRODUCTION In cabinetmaking, those characteristics of wood with which we are concerned differ somewhat from those characteristics of wood with which we are concerned when we are dealing with frame construction. For example, in cabinetmaking, beauty and finishing qualities are the determining factors rather than strength. Many beautiful hardwoods are strong. Being strong and naturally beautiful, they are favored for cabinetwork. In this section you will learn the types of wood used in cabinetwork and the characteristics of each type. After studying these characteristics, you should be able to identify and select the proper wood for a particular job. The most desirable woods for cabinetwork should: • Have the ability to keep their shape without shrinking, warping, or swelling. • Be easily workable with tools and machinery without causing rough surfaces • Be strong, with suitable grain characteristics that are pleasing to the eye CLASSIFICATION OF LUMBER Softwoods Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking. Among these, white pine is one of the most useful of all. It is also easy to work, because it has a uniform grain and holds its shape well. White pine is soft, light, and of medium strength. It splits easily but holds nails fairly well. It also takes glue well. The grain is not prominent; therefore, it has no particular beauty. For this reason, coupled with its ability to hold paint, it is most often painted. Hardwoods Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets. Their strength, plus beauty and ability to take clear finishes (varnish and lacquer), makes them ideal for the finest products of the cabinetmaker. Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





There are many types of hardwoods; however, we will cover only the principal ones. Walnut is one of the finest of cabinet woods, because the grain is porous and varies from straight to irregular. Walnut works well with tools, finishes smoothly, and holds glue and stain well. It is a hard, strong wood and is easily identified by its dark heartwood. It is used extensively for plywood, veneers, furniture, and millwork. Mahogany is not a native wood; therefore, all species are imported. Most varieties come from Central America, Africa, and India. It is a hard, strong wood; however, the hardness can vary with the species. Color can vary in shade, but generally speaking, it is reddish brown. Mahogany has a close, varying grain, causing a pleasing reflection of light. It is used chiefly for fine furniture, plywood panels, veneers, and interior finishes. Oak is a very hard, strong wood with two main species: white and red. Unless it is carefully seasoned, it will warp and check; however, once it is worked to a finish it is without rival for strength and beauty. Oak bends excellently, holds nails well, finishes smoothly, and holds glue satisfactorily. The grain is coarse and porous; and when quartersawed, the medullary rays are broad and numerous, making pleasing patterns. It takes stain very well, making beautiful grain contrasts, and is used for interior finishes, flooring, plywood panels, veneers, and furniture. Oak sometimes is used in boatbuilding where strength is required. Plywood Today plywood is used for thousands of products, and the average person comes into contact with it every day. It, too, is used extensively in cabinetwork. Modern plywood consists of veneers that are fabricated with glues. In simple terms, it consists of three or more layers of thin wood firmly glued together, with the grain direction of the middle layer at right angles to the outer layers. By this means of fabrication, swelling and shrinking is reduced and stability and strength are added, qualities which would not be found in the original material. Figure 3. Grain Direction in a sheet of plywood






Two Basic Types of Plywood 1. Exterior Plywood - Exterior plywood is bonded with waterproof glues. It can be used for siding, concrete forms, and other constructions where it will be exposed to the weather or excessive moisture. 2. Interior plywood is bonded with glues that are not waterproof. It is used for cabinets and other inside construction where the moisture content of the panels will not exceed 20 percent. Finishing plywood presents no unusual problems; it can be sanded or texture coated with a permanent finish or left to weather naturally. Plywood is made in thicknesses of 1/8 inch to more than 1 inch, with the common sizes being 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, and 3/4 inch. A standard panel size is 4-feet wide by 8-feet long. Smaller size panels are available in the hardwoods. There is probably no other building material as versatile as plywood. It is used for concrete forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams, soffits, stressed-skin panels, paneling, shelving, doors, furniture, cabinets, crates, signs, and many other items. Wood used in cabinetwork consists of a variety of hardwoods, softwoods, and plywood. When selecting materials for cabinets, you should select the type best suited for the job you are doing. That is, don't use the highest grade of lumber or the best grade of plywood to construct a cabinet that is to be used for storage. Table 1. Classification of Softwood Plywood Rates Species for Strength and Stiffness






Bill of Materials and Cutting List Before beginning the work of laying out, a complete list must be made of all the different pieces of lumber needed for a job. Such a list is called “bill of material” or a “finished-stock list.” It is made out directly from the drawing, which shows the dimensions of each piece and the method of construction. A bill of material specifies the wood to be used, lists the number of pieces needed, gives the exact dimensions for each piece, and names the part of the construction for which it is to used, such as sides, legs, or top. For cabinet works the dimensions are given in inches and in the following order: thickness, width, length. Usually the length is the greatest dimension, but there are cases that the width is greater the length. A rough-stock list or a cutting list usually is made from the finishedstock list by adding 1/8 in. to the thickness, ¼ in. to the width, and ½ in. to the length. This is to allow for planing and squaring. No allowance is made for plywood. Lumber for building purposes is sawed and planed to various standard dimensions. Planed lumber is slightly less in thickness and width than rough-sawed lumber. From 1/16 to 1/8 in. is allowed for each planed surface. Therefore, a planed 1 in. board is only 7/8 or 13/16 in. thick. The symbol S2S, used by lumber dealers, means surfaces or dressed on two sides. Lumber for cabinet is sold in odd widths and short lengths and at a lower price than is charged for standard width and lengths.

Figure 4. Pictorial Drawing of Built-in Book Shelves






Table 2. Bill of materials FINISH LIST No. of Thicknes Piece s s 12 3/4 3/4 6 6 6 6 3

CUTTING (ROUGH) LIST

Width Length 2 6

68 ½ 22

3/4

3

22

3/4

5½

22

3/4

20 ½

45 ½

3/4

20 ½

16 ½

Kind of Name Material of Part cherry cherry cherry cherry Cherry plywood Cherry Plywood

Thickness

Widt h

Lengt h

7/8

2¼

69

7/8

6¼

22 ½

7/8

3¼

22 ½

7/8

5¼

22 ½

¼

20 ½

45 ½

20 ½

16 ½

sides bottom Rails Middle rails Top rails Panels panels

¼

Table 3. Cutting List of Built-it Book Shelves






SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-2 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ TRUE OR FALSE. Read the statement carefully. Write TRUE if the statement is true and FALSE if the statement is false. Write your answer on the space provided before the number. 1. Many softwoods are used in cabinetmaking. 2. Hardwoods are used extensively for fine furniture and cabinets. 3. Mahogany has a close, varying grain, causing it to split easily. 4. Plywood is used extensively in cabinetwork. It is used also for concrete forms, wall and roof sheathing, flooring, box beams, soffits, stressed-skin panels, paneling, shelving, doors, furniture, cabinets, crates, signs, and many other items. 5. Finishing plywood cannot be sanded nor texture coated with a permanent finish.






ANSWER KEY NO. 4.1-2 Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. TRUE 2. TRUE 3. FALSE 4. TRUE 5. FALSE






OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2 Title: Performance Objective: Supplies and Materials:

Re-Checking Material for Correct Specifications Given the necessary materials, you should be able to re-check materials for correct specifications Working Drawing/ Plan Sample Materials (Lumber)

Equipment: Steps/Procedure: 1. Study carefully the working drawing/plan provided to you. 2. Look for the overall dimensions and detailed dimensions of the project according to the drawing. 3. Get the actual measurement of the materials/stock assigned to you and get the number of pieces needed using the form provided to you. 4. Accomplish Form 01a Materials Inspection List. Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment Performance Criteria Checklist FORM 01a. MATERIAL INSPECTION LIST

SPECIFICATION REQUIREMENTS UNIT NAME

NO. OF PIECES

1 2 3 4

2 4 4 1

Remarks:

DIMENSION (INCHES) THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

2 1½ 2½ ¾

2 2 2¼ 24

6½ 4 1/4 5 16

ACTUAL MEASUREMENT THICKNESS

WIDTH

LENGTH

__________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________

Inspected by: _______________________


ACTUAL NO. OF PIECE S


Date Inspected: ________________




PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1-2 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

NO

1. Can I identify material specification from parts lists from the actual/physical materials? 2. Are all required materials checked and re-checked according to job requirement, such as: 1. Dimensions; 2. No. of required pieces; and, 3. Type of materials? 3. Is the required form for inspection properly accomplished and completed?






INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.1-3 WOOD DEFECTS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to IDENTIFY WOOD DEFECTS. No matter what species of timber you use, you will undoubtedly come across some pieces that contain defects come across some pieces that contain defects. Defects may be naturally occurring or can be man-made. Natural defects can be due to many reasons such as environmental factors, growth patterns, soil composition, etc. Man-made defects can occur at many points ... from the felling of the tree, transport, storage, sawing, drying, etc. Although you can work around some defects such as knots, or cut off defects such as splits, boards that are heavily twisted, bowed, cupped, or crooked usually are not usable. Bow

A curve along the face of a board that usually runs from end to end.

Checking

A crack in the wood structure of a piece, usually running lengthwise. Checks are usually restricted to the end of a board and do not penetrate as far as the opposite side of a piece of sawn timber. Warping along the edge from one end to the other. This is most common in wood that was cut from the centre of the tree near the pith Warping along the face of a board across the width of the board. This defect is most common of plain sawn lumber.

Crook

Cupping






Split

A longitudinal separation of the fibres which extends to the opposite face of a piece of sawn timber.

Twist

Warping in lumber where the ends twist in opposite directions

Wane

The presence of bark or absence of wood on comers of a piece of lumber

Blue Stain

A discoloration that penetrates the wood fibre. It can be any colour other than the natural colour of the piece in which it is found. It is classed as light, medium or heavy and is generally blue or brown A darkening of the wood due to overheating by the machine knives or rolls when pieces are stopped in a machine. An accumulation of resinous material on the surface or in pockets below the surface of wood. Also called gum or sap. A knot that cannot be relied upon to remain in place in the piece. Caused by a dead branch that was not fully integrated into the tree before it was cut down A knot fixed by growth or position in the wood structure so that it firmly retains its place in the surrounding wood Small holes in the wood caused by insects and beetles

Machine Burn Pitch

Loose Knot

Tight Knot Worm holes






SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-3 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ IDENTIFICATION. Read the statement carefully. Identify the type of wood defects from the given statements. Write your answer on space provided. 1

2 3 4 5

A discoloration that penetrates the wood fibre. It can be any colour other than the natural colour of the piece in which it is found. It is classed as light, medium or heavy and is generally blue or brown Small holes in the wood caused by insects and beetles Warping along the face of a board across the width of the board. This defect is most common of plain sawn lumber. A longitudinal separation of the fibres which extends to the opposite face of a piece of sawn timber. A curve along the face of a board that usually runs from end to end.

6

7

8

9

10






ANSWER KEY NO. 4.1-3 Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Blue stain Worm holes Crook Cupping Bow Cracking Split Twist Wane Loose Knot







Identify Wood Defects Given the necessary materials, you should be able to identify wood defects from the given materials/stocks Lumber (with visible wood defects)

Equipment: Steps/Procedure: • • •

Check thoroughly the physical appearance of the wood/lumber provided to you in your station. Examine the appearance of the stocks. Accomplish Form 02 Wood Defects Inspection List for visible defects of wood.

Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment Performance Criteria Checklist FORM 01b WOOD DEFECTS INSPECTION LIST

PART NO. 1 Type of Wood: ______________________________________ Remarks:

__________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________

PART NO. 2 Type of Wood: ______________________________________ Remarks:

__________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________

PART NO. 2 Type of Wood: ______________________________________ __________________________________________________________ __________________________________________________________ Others:

__________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________

Inspected by: _______________________



Date Inspected: ________________




PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1.3 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•

Can I identify different defects of wood?

•

Are materials like lumber checked to correct specification to ensure that they are free from defects?

•

Are defected wood/stock identified and properly reported using corresponding form?




NO



INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.1-4 CLASSIFICATION OF HAND TOOLS & EQUIPMENT AND THEIR USES Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to IDENTIFY THE CLASSIFICATION OF HAND TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT AND THEIR USES The whole range of tools for carpentry is quite extensive and includes power and battery-operated (cordless) tools in the essential list. The following details, therefore, do not cover all the tools that you could have, rather all the tools that you should have. MARKING AND MEASURING Pencils For more accurate marking and a longer-lasting point, they can easily be sharpened to a chisel-point. Figure 5. Pencils

Tape Rule This is essential for fast, efficient measuring on site work. For this type of carrying-rule, sizes vary between 2 m and 10 m. Models with lockable, powerreturn blades and belt clips, one of 3.5 m and one of 8 m length are recommended.

Figure 6. Tape Rule

Chalk Line Reel This tool is very useful for marking straight lines by holding the line taut between two extremes, lifting at any mid point with finger and thumb and flicking onto the surface to leave a straight chalk line. Figure 7. Chalk Line Reel

Marking Gauges Gauges are used for cutting parallel lines at a given distance from the edge Figure 8. Marking Gauge Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





Spirit Level This is an essential tool for plumbing and leveling operations. When checking or setting up a level or plumb position, be sure that the bubble is equally settled between the lines on the vial for accurate readings.

Figure 9. Spirit Level

Plumb Bob There is still a use, however limited, for these traditional plumbing devices. They should, as illustrated, always be suspended away from the surface being checked and measured for equal readings at top and bottom. The point is very useful for plumbing to a mark on the floor.

Figure 10. Plumb Bob

Combination Mitre Square This tool can be used for testing or marking narrow rebated edges, as shown, or for testing or marking angles of 90°, 45°, and 135°; the blade can be adjusted from the stock to a set measurement and, with the aid of a pencil, used as a pencil gauge. Figure 11. Combination Miter Square

Sliding Bevel This is an essential tool for angular work, especially roofing if using the Roofing Ready Reckoner method. Figure 12. Sliding Bevel






CUTTING TOOLS Handsaws • Crosscut Saw -This is for cutting timber across the grain. When crosscutting, the saw should be at an approximate angle of 45° to the timber. Figure 13. Crosscut Saw •

Tenon Saw - This saw is sometimes referred to as a back saw. Technically thought of as a general purpose bench saw for fine cutting, it is however widely used on site for certain second-fixing operations involving fine crosscutting of small sections.

Figure 14. Tenon Saw

•

Rip Saw - Used for cutting along or with the grain. When ripping (cutting along or with the grain), the saw should be used at a steep angle of about 60–70° to the timber. Figure 15. Rip Saw

•

General Saw and Fine Saw - The first model is general carpentry saw is recommended for cutting worktops and laminates without chipping. The second model is called a fine cut saw and has a half-length back or full-length back support and is said to surpass conventional tenon saws. Figure 16. General Saw and Fine Saw

•

Coping Saw - This is mainly used for scribing (cutting the profile shape) of molded skirting boards where they meet in the corners of a room, but occasionally comes in useful for other curved cuts in wood or plastic.




Figure 17. Coping Saw Document No. Issued by:


CHISELS Firmer chisels are generally for heavy work, chopping and cutting timber in a variety of operations where a certain amount of mallet/hammer work and levering might be necessary to remove the chopped surface. Bevelled-edge chisels are generally for more accurate finishing tasks.

Figure 18. (a) Firmer Chisel; (b) Bevelled-edge Chisel

HAND PLANES The two planes to be recommended as most useful for site work are the No. 4 1-2 smoothing plane with a cutter width of 60 mm and a base length of 260mm and the No. 5 1-2 jack plane, also with a cutter width of 60mm, but a base length of 381mm.

Figure 19. Metal Jack Plane

DRIVING TOOLS HAMMERS • Claw Hammer - Although this tool is basically for nailing and extracting nails, it has also been widely used over the years by using the side of the head as an alternative to the wooden mallet. The claw is also used for a limited amount of leverage work, such as separating nailed boards, etc.

Figure 20. Claw Hammer

•

Mallet - The conventional wedge-shaped pattern is rather bulky and not generally favoured for site work, even though the tapered shaft – retaining the head from flying off – can be removed for easier carriage. A recommended alternative is a round-headed mallet, such as a Tinman’s mallet – used traditionally by sheet-metal workers – which has a boxwood or lignum-vitae head of about 70 mm diameter. Finally, wooden mallets should only strike on their end grain, not on their sides. Figure 21. Mallet






SCREWDRIVERS • Ratchet Screwdriver - The ratchet screwdriver is available with flared slotted tip in four blade-lengths of 75mm, 100mm, 150mm and 200mm. They are also available with a No 2 Supadriv/Pozidriv tip and a No 2 Phillips’ tip in bladelengths of 100 mm only.

Figure 22. (a) Rachet screwdriver; (b) Spiral pump Screwdriver; (c) Plastic-handled screwdriver

•

Spiral Pump Screwdriver - can be used as a ratchet. The use of drill bits in this compact-size pump is an attractive alternative for making speedy pilot holes. Interchangeable bits are supplied with the whole range of this type of screwdriver in different sizes.

•

Plastic-Handled Screwdrivers - has a well-shaped polypropylene handle integrated with thermo-plastic elastomeric inserts to provide improved grip and comfort in use.

RATCHET BRACE Used for making large holes, it has wooden head and handle which is fitted in bearings to turn easily. At the bottom it is provided with a chuck to hold the bit. The ratchet positioned above the chuck helps to rotate the bit in one direction only Figure 23. Rachet Brace

BITS • Twist bits and flat bits - Also referred to as auger bits used for drilling shallow or deep (maximum 150 mm) holes of 6–32 mm diameter. Figure 24. Twist bits/ Auger bits and flat bits

•

Countersink bits - These are for screw-head recessing in soft metal and timber. Carpentry NC III

JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





•

Combined countersink and counterbore bits - Used for drilling a pilot hole, shank hole and countersink for woodscrews in one operation.

Figure 25. Countersink bits

Figure 26. Combined countersink and counterbore bit

PORTABLE POWERED AND CORDLESS CIRCULAR SAWS These saws are widely used nowadays to save time and energy spent on hand sawing operations. They can also be used for bevel cuts, sawn grooves and rebates.

Figure 27. Portable powered circular saw

POWERED AND CORDLESS DRILLS AND SCREWDRIVERS There is nowadays a wide range of dual- and triple-purpose drills to choose from, starting with the basic rotary-only drill and ending with the advanced electro pneumatic hammer drill. the drill/screwdriver, drill/impact (percussion) drill/screwdriver, drill/rotary hammer drill/screwdriver, and combinations of battery-powered models such as the cordless screwdriver, drill/screwdriver, drill/impact drill/screwdriver, and the drill/rotary hammer drill/screwdriver. Figure 28. Powered and cordless drills and screwdrivers Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





POWERED AND CORDLESS PLANERS Powered planers are often used nowadays in conjunction with traditional planes such as the jack and the smoothing plane. They are sometimes preferred on such jobs as door-hanging, to lessen the strenuous task of ‘shooting-in’ the door by planing its edges.

(a)

(b)

Figure 29. (a) Powered plane; (b) Cordless plane

POWERED AND CORDLESS JIGSAWS The essential purpose for a jigsaw is to enable pierced work to be carried out. This self-explanatory term means to enter the body of a material, without leading in from an outside edge. By so doing, small, irregular shapes can be cut.

Figure 30. (a) Powered jigsaw; (b) Cordless jigsaw

POWERED (PORTABLE) ROUTERS These include cutting recessed housings for door hinges; apertures for letter plates (often referred to as letter boxes); mortises for door locks and latches; joints in laminate kitchen-worktops with post-formed edges; end-shaping of laminate worktops; cutting ‘dog-bone’ or ‘T-shaped’ recesses for inserting panel bolt connectors; and cutting segmental slots in the joint-edges of worktops for the insertion of so-called ‘biscuits’. Figure 31. Powered router






NAILING GUNS Nail guns are being used on sites nowadays – especially on newbuild projects. The reason for this is that these tools eliminate the effort involved in repetitive nailing and speed up the job.

Figure 28 (a) Pneumatic Framing Nailer; (b) cordless gas/battery Framing Nailer; (c) cordless battery-only Finish Nailer






SELF-CHECK NO. 4.1-4 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kind and classification tools and equipment. Write your answer on the space provided. CLASSIFICATION NAME OF (DRIVING, BORING, TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT CUTTING, MARKING, TOOL MEASURING)

1

2

3

4

5






ANSWER KEY 4.1-4 Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

CLASSIFICATION

NAME OF TOOL

1

DRIVING TOOL

SCREWDRIVER

2

CUTTING TOOL

WOOD CHISEL

3

BORING TOOL

RACHET BRACE

4

CUTTING TOOL

HAND PLANE

5

BORING TOOL

BITS







Fabricate/assemble built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet

CONTENTS: 1. Woodworking process 2. Classification of wood joints and their uses 3. Description of manufactured cabinets 4. Procedure in laying-out and assembling on the location of cabinets

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA 1. Cabinet location is identified from working drawings and specifications 2. Cabinet components are fabricated and/or pre-fabricated cabinets are prepared/assembled according to working drawings and specifications 3. Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and regulations 4. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations 5. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety regulations CONDITIONS: You must be provided with the following: • WORKPLACE LOCATION • Hand Saw • TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • • • • • •

•

Hammer Marking Tools Measuring Tools Nylon String Steel Square Try-square

• • • • • •




ASSESSMENT METHOD • Portfolio






Learning Experience FABRICATE/ASSEMBLE BUILT-IN CABINET COMPONENTS AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINET Learning Activities 1. Read Information Sheet No. 4.2-1 on Wood working process 2. Perform Operation Sheet no. 4.2-1 on Planing and Squaring Stock to Dimension 3. Read Information Sheet No. 4.2-2 on Classification of Wood Joints and their Uses 4. Answer Self-Check No. 4.2-2 5. Read Information Sheet No. 4.2-3 on Description of Manufactured Cabinets 6. Answer Self-Check No. 4.2-3 7. Read Information Sheet No. 4.2-4 on Laying-out Manufacture Kitchen Cabinet 8. Read Information Sheet No. 4.2-5 on Installing Manufactured Kitchen Cabinet 9. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-5a on Laying-out the Wall

10. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-5b on Installing Wall Units

Special Instructions

Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities

Compare your answer to the answer key

Compare your answer to the answer key

Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for






11. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-5c on Installing Base Cabinet

12. Read Information Sheet No. 4.2-6 on Installing Manufactured Countertops 13. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-6a on Installing Manufactured Countertops 14. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-6b on Installing the Cabinet Ends 15. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-6c on Making the Face Frame

16. Read Information Sheet No. 4.2-7 on Drawer Construction 17. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-7a on Overlay Drawer

18. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-7b on Making Lipped Drawer

evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities

Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities

Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation






19. Perform Operation Sheet No. 4.2-7c on Making Flush Drawer

Keep a copy of your work for the next activities Evaluate your own work using the Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities






INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-1 WOODWORKING PROCESS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to KNOW the different WOODWORKING PROCESSES Preliminaries to any sound construction are (1) a full cutting list of all the pieces required; (2)good timber free from natural defects, accurately sawn and planed up flat, square and out of twist;(3) careful planning of the work ahead, including the choosing of appropriate jointing methods, the order in which they are to be cut and the order and method in which the various pieces and parts are to be assembled in the completed carcass. This last is important and must be accurately visualized if there are to be no last-minute hitches, with carefully cut joints glued ready for assembly unable to be driven home because the direction of entry conflicts with other parts already in position. A. SETTING/LAYING OUT The wood must first be cut to approximate length, and it is always better to square off from either a sawn edge or a pencil-line along the length if the planks are waney. If an incorrect line is drawn—and all measurements should always be checked and double checked—then it should be cancelled out and a broad arrow drawn against the corrected measurement. The ends of the plank should be carefully examined for hidden splits and the first few inches of any plank which has been stored for any length of time may have to be sacrificed. Due allowance for working must be made, with 1/4 in (6 mm) on width and 1/2 in (12 mm) on the length for the first rough sawing to dimension unless the cuts are machine-made and accurate. Customary allowance for planing (surfacing) sawn thicknesses is usually 3/32 in (2.5 mm) for each finished face. The following is an outline of procedure using predominantly hand tools. Although many of these operations would normally be undertaken with the aid of machinery in professional shops, at some time or other, particularly on one-off, prototype or site work, every one of these hand processes might be used. Also, there is no better way of understanding the materials we work with than through a basic training in hand skills and techniques. B. MARKING/LAYING OUT Face-marks and edge-marks must be bold and should be done with a thick soft pencil. For the first approximate dimensioning of lengths, etc. Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





a B or HB pencil can be used, but for accurate dimensions at later stages a 2H or 4H is necessary, while shoulder-lines should always be marked with a knife.

Figure 29. Marking a new line (A) and marking the trued edge

C. SAWING OUT The rip-saw is used for long-grain sawing, the large crosscut or crosscut panel-saw for cutting across the grain, and the temptation to use the finer tenon- and dovetail-saws for rough work should be strenuously resisted, for more often than not the plank will be gritty. A usual tendency on the part of the beginner is to saw too fast, and in comparison the skilled worker's pace is almost leisurely, but he will cut more wood in the end and it will be accurate. Every effort should be made to saw not only on the line but also truly vertical, as this will save not only material but a great deal of unnecessary work at later stages. D. PLANING (SURFACING) Either the fore- or jack-plane is used for the first rough levelling, the try-plane for true leveling and the finely set smoothing-plane for final surfacing. In planing wide boards the best or face surface should first be levelled off along, across or diagonally, according to how the grain works (interlocked grain is best planed diagonally to prevent tearing out), When the board is out of wind then the try-plane should be capable of taking fine shavings the full length of the board over the entire area, to be followed up by the finely set smoothing-plane to ease out any ridges and roughened patches. When the surface is planed perfectly true and out of wind it should be marked with a 'face' mark (128B) which should never be omitted from any piece of prepared wood.






E. SQUARING EDGES Immediately after the face surface is true, the leading or best edge should be trued straight in its length and at right angles to the face, checking carefully with the try-square all along the length; it is then known as the 'trued' or face edge and is marked accordingly. This is, perhaps, the most difficult of all planing operations, for while it is comparatively easy to plane a straight edge with a long try-plane, always remembering that pressure is applied at the front of the plane at the start of the stroke and gradually transferred to the back as the plane moves forward, it is much more difficult to keep the edge truly square to the face.

Figure 30.

F. SQUARING ENDS The shooting-board is used for squaring ends, but if the wood is too wide or too heavy to be held on the board then the ends will have to be shot in the vice and checked against a long trysquare. The practice of nicking off the far corner to prevent the grain splintering out is not to be recommended, and it is advisable to learn how to use the try-plane in both directions, leading with the left hand, reversing the plane and leading with the right. An alternative method is to cramp/clamp a block at the far corner to support the grain, and a similar scrap piece is sometimes necessary when squaring ends on the shooting-board.







Plane and Square Stock to Dimension Given the necessary materials, you should be able to plane and square stock to dimension Lumber/ stock

Tools and Equipment:

• • • •

Hammer Marking Tools Measuring Tools Hand Planer

• • •

Try-square Hand Saw PPE

1. Plane one broad

surface smooth and straight. Test it crosswise, lengthwise, and from corner to corner. Mark the work X Work on face 2. Plane one edge smooth

straight and square to the work face test it from work face. Mark the work edge X

Work on edge 3. Plane one end smooth

and square. Test it from the work face and work edge. Mark the work end X

Work on end






4. Measure

length and scribe around the stock. A line square to the work edge and work face. Saw off excess stock near the line and plane smooth to the scribed line. Test the second end from both the work face and the work edge.

5. From the work edge

gauge a line for width on both faces plane smooth, straight, square and to the gauge line. Test the second edge from the work face Work on second edge 6. From

the work face gauge a line for thickness around the stock. Plane the stock to the gauge line test the second face as the work face is tested. Work on second face

Assessment Method: Observation Performance Criteria Checklist






INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-2 CLASSIFICATION OF WOOD JOINTS AND THEIR USES Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to KNOW and APPLY the different classification of WOOD JOINTS and their USES Jointing methods are designed to hold or lock pieces together, either in the same plane or in opposing planes, so method of attachment is permanent and strong against loading thrusts, sudden impact, the wear and tear of daily use and the movement of the wood fibers.

of wood that the stresses, constant

Methods of joining wood together can be classified under four broad headings: • • • •

Butted joints, either edge to edge, side to side and with or without additional reinforcement Interlocking joints where one piece of wood is cut or shaped to fit a corresponding socket in the other piece Mechanical joints which permit controlled movement Knock-down metal or plastic fittings which secure the various wood sections together to form rigid structures

Figure 31. Basic joint cuts






A. Types of Carpentry Joints 1. Halving joint •

used in construction of frames

Figure 32. Halving Joints

•

after marking and cutting, the two parts are glued together with final external surfaces level

Figure 33a. Corner Halving Joint joint

Figure 33b. T- halving

2. Mortise and tenon joint •

strong joint used in construction of doors, windows and frames

•

the tenon (tongue) fits into a mortise(mouth)

•

the open mortise and tenon joint is called briddle joint and is usually made in square sections

Figure 44. Mortise & tenon joint Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





Figure 35. Briddle joint

3. Mitre joint •

formed by cutting the ends at an angle

•

the two ends are joined by nails or screws

•

this joint is used in photo frames

Figure 36. Miter joint

4. Dowel joint •

used as substitute for mortise and tenon joint, and securing loose parts to a product






Figure 37. Dowel joint

5. Butt & rubbed joint 1. used to produce wide boards like drawing boards, table tops 2. to make the joint the edges are planed with trying plane and joined together with glue Figure 38.

Butt or rubbed joint

6. Screw & slot joint •

used for thick wooden pieces which do not glue readily

•

on piece carries the screw while the other has a hole for head of the screw and a slot for shank Figure 39.




Screw & slotted joint



7. Tongue & grooved joint • • • •

widening joint used for flanks and boards this is prepared by cutting a groove on one edge and a matching tongue on the other tongue is fitted into groove sometimes, grooves are made on both the edges and a separate tongue is inserted in it --such joints are called inserted tongue and groove joint

Figure 40. Tongue & grooved joint

8. Dovetail • the best method of jointing two pieces of wood together in their width and at right angles to each other

Figure 41(1-2). Hand Dovetail

Figure 41(3-4). Machine Dovetail

Figure 42. Box Dovetail Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





SELF-CHECK NO. 4.2-2 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ IDENTIFICATION. Look at the illustration carefully. Identify the kinds of wood joints. Write your answer on the space provided.

1. _____________________________

2. ______________________________

3. _____________________________

4. _____________________________

5. _____________________________






ANSWER KEY 4.2-2 Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect.

1. Miter Joint 2. Halving Joint 3. Mortise and Tenon 4. Dado 5. dovetail joint






INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-3 DESCRIPTION OF MANUFACTURED CABINETS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to be familiar with the various kinds, sizes, uses, and construction of the cabinets and to know how to and install them. For commercial buildings, many kinds of specialty cabinets are manufactured. They are designed for specific uses in offices, hospitals, laboratories, schools, libraries, and other buildings. Most cabinets used in residential construction are manufactured for the kitchen or bathroom. All cabinets, whether for commercial or residential use/ consist of a case which is fitted with shelves, doors, and/or drawers. Cabinets are manufactured and installed in essentially the same way. Designs vary considerably with the manufacturer, but sizes are close to the same.

Kinds and Sizes One method of cabinet construction utilizes a face frame. This frame provides openings for doors and drawers. Another method, called European or frameless, eliminates the face frame. Face-framed cabinets usually give a traditional look. Frameless cabinets are used when a contemporary appearance is desired.

Figure 43. Two basic methods of cabinet construction are with a face frame or frameless






The two basic kinds of kitchen cabinets are the wall unit and the base unit. The surface of the countertop is usually about 36 inches from the floor. Wall units are installed about 18 inches above the countertop. This distance is enough to accommodate such articles as coffee makers, toasters, blenders, and mixers. Yet it keeps the top shelf within reach, not over 6 feet from the floor. The usual overall height of a kitchen cabinet installation is 7'-0" .

Figure 44. Parts of manufactured kitchen cabinet

1. Wall Cabinets. Standard wall cabinets are 12 inches deep. They normally come in heights of 42, 30, 24, 18, 15, and 12 inches. The standard height is 30 inches. Shorter cabinets are used above sinks, refrigerators, and ranges. The 42-inch cabinets are for use in kitchens without soffits where more storage space is desired. A standard height wall unit usually contains two adjustable shelves. Usual wall cabinet widths range from 9 to 48 inches in 3-inch increments. They come with single or double doors depending on their width. Single-door cabinets can be hung so doors can swing in either direction.






Wall corner cabinets make access into corners easier. Double-faced cabinets have doors on both sides for use above island and peninsular bases. Some wall cabinets are made 24 inches deep for installation above refrigerators. A microwave oven case/ with a 30-inch wide shelf, is available.

Figure 45. Common cabinet heights and dimensions

2. Base Cabinets. Most base cabinets are manufactured 34 1/2 inches high and 24 inches deep. By adding the usual countertop thickness of 1 ½ inches, the work surface is at the standard height of 36 inches from the floor. Base cabinets come in widths to match wall cabinets. Singledoor cabinets are manufactured in widths from 9 to 24 inches. Doubledoor cabinets come in widths from 27 to 48 inches. A recess called a toe space is provided at the bottom of the cabinet. The standard base cabinet contains one drawer, one door, and an adjustable shelf. Some base units have no drawers; others contain all drawers. Double-faced cabinets provide access from both sides. Corner units/ with round revolving shelves, make corner storage easily accessible






Figure 46. Base cabinets

3. Tall Cabinets. Tall cabinets are usually manufactured 24 inches deep, the same depth as base cabinets. Some utility cabinets are 12 inches deep. They are made 66 inches high and in widths of 27.30, and 33 inches for use as oven cabinets- Single-door utility cabinets are made 18 and 24 inches wide. Doubledoor pantry cabinets are made 36 inches wide (Fig. 87-6). Wall cabinets with a 24-inch depth are usually installed above tall cabinets.

Figure 47. Tall cabinets are manufactured as oven, utility, and pantry units Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





4. Vanity Cabinets. Most vanity base cabinets are made 311/2 inches high and 21 inches deep. Some are made in depths of 16 and 18 inches. Usual widths range from 24 to 36 inches in increments of 3 inches, then 42,48, and 60 inches. They are available with several combinations of doors and drawers, depending on their width- Various sizes and styles of vanity wall cabinets are also manufactured.

Figure 48. Vanity cabinets are made similar to kitchen cabinets, but differ in size

5. Accessories. Accessories are essential to or enhance a

cabinet installation. Filler pieces fill small gaps in width between wall and base units when no combination of sizes can fill the existing space. They are cut to necessary widths on the job. Other accessories include cabinet end panels, face panels for dishwashers and refrigerators, open shelves for cabinet ends, and spice racks.






SELF-CHECK NO. 4.2-3 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ MATCHING TYPE. Choose from the letters under Column B the answers in Column A. Write your answer on the space provided.

COLUMN A

COLUMN B

____1. Manufactured at standard height of 36 inches from the floor and 24 inches deep.

a. wall cabinet

____2. Most of these cabinets are made 31 1/2 inches high and 21 inches deep.

b. base cabinet

____3. Standard cabinet height is 30 inches, usually contains two adjustable shelves.

c. tall cabinet

____4. The standard cabinet contains one drawer, one door, and an adjustable shelf, a recess called a toe space is provided at the bottom of the cabinet.

d. vanity cabinet

____5. They are made 66 inches high and in widths of 27.30.






ANSWER KEY 4.2-3 Check your answer with the answer key below. If you fail to get it right, refer back to corresponding resources until you make it perfect. 1. b 2. d 3. a 4. b 5. c






INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-4 LAYING OUT MANUFACTURED KITCHEN CABINETS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to KNOW how to layout manufactured kitchen cabinets The blueprints for a building contain plans, elevations, and details that show the cabinet layout. Architects may draw the layout. But they may not specify the size or the manufacturer's identification for each individual unit of the installation. In residential construction, particularly in remodeling, no plans are usually available to show the cabinet arrangement. In addition to installation/ it becomes the responsibility of the carpentry contractor to plan, lay out, and order the cabinets, in accordance with the customer's specifications. 1. The first step is to measure carefully and accurately the length of the walls on which the cabinets are to be installed. A plan is then drawn to scale. It must show the location of all appliances, sinks, windows, and other necessary items. 2. Next, draw elevations of the base cabinets, referring to the manufacturer's catalog for sizes. Always use the largest size cabinets available instead of two or three smaller ones- This reduces the cost and makes installation easier. 3. Match up the wall cabinets with the base cabinets, where feasible. If filler strips are necessary, place them between a wall and a cabinet or between cabinets in the corner. Identify each unit on the elevations with the manufacturer's identification. Make a list of the units in the layout. Order from the distributor.






Figure 49. Typical plan of a kitchen cabinet layout showing location of walls, windows and appliances

Figure 50. Sink Wall Elevation






Figure 51. Elevations of the installation are drawn and the cabinets identified.

Computer Layouts Computer programs are available to help in laying out manufactured kitchen cabinets. When the required information is fed into the computer, a number of different layouts can be quickly made. When a acceptable layout is made, it can be printed with each of the cabinets in the layout identified and priced. Most large kitchen cabinet distributors will supply computerized layouts on request.






INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5 INSTALLING MANUFACTURED CABINETS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to Install manufactures cabinets. Cabinets must be installed level and plumb even though floors are not always level and walls not always plumb. Level lines are first drawn on the wall for base and wall cabinets. In order to level base cabinets that set on an unlevel floor, either shim the cabinets from the high point of the floor or scribe and fit the cabinets to the floor from lowest point on the floor. Shimming the base cabinets leaves a space that must be later covered by a molding. Scribing and fitting the cabinets to the floor eliminate the need for a molding. The method used depends on the various conditions of the job. If shimming base cabinets, layout the level lines on the wall from the highest point of the floors where cabinets are to be installed. If fitting cabinets to the floor, measure up from the lowest point. The fabrication and installation of manufactured cabinets will be discussed in detail on the following operation sheets.






OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5a Title: Performance Objective: Supplies and Materials:

Laying-out the Wall Given the necessary materials, you should be able to lay-out the wall where the cabinet will be installed Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •

Hammer Marking Tools Measuring Tools Nylon String Steel Square Try-square Hand Saw

• • • • • •


Steps/Procedure: 1. Measure 34 ½ inches up the wall. Draw a level line to indicate the tops of the base cabinets. Another level line must be made on the wall 54 inches from the floor. The bottoms of the wall units are installed to this line. Note: It is more accurate to measure 19 1/2 inches up from the first level line and snap lines parallel to it than to level another line. 2. The next step is to mark the stud locations in a framed wall. (Cabinet mounting screws will be driven into the studs.) Lightly tap on and across a short distance of the wall with a hammer. Drive a finish nail in at the point where a solid sound is heard. Drive the nail where holes are later covered by a cabinet- If a stud is found, mark the location with a pencil. If no stud is found try a little over to one side or the other. 3. Measure at 16-inch intervals in both directions from the first stud to locate other studs. Drive a finish nail to test for solid wood. Mark each stud location. If studs are not found at 16-inch centers, try 24-inch, centers- At each stud location, draw plumb lines on the wall. Mark the outlines of all cabinets on the wall to visualize and check the cabinet locations against the layout. See illustration on the following page.






The wall is laid out with outlines of the cabinets

Assessment Method: Direct Observation Performance Criteria Checklist






PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5a Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•

Did my measurements corresponds to the measurements on the drawing?

•

After laying-out the tops of the base cabinets and the bottom of the wall units, is the measurement from the first and second line equal to 19 ½ inches?

•

Did I located the studs on the framed wall and draw plumb lines on the wall?

•

Did I marked the outlines of all cabinets on the wall to visualize and check the cabinet locations against the layout?




NO



OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5b Title: Performance Objective: Supplies and Materials:

Installing Wall Units Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install wall units Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •


• • • • • •


Steps/ Procedures: 1. Remove all doors and adjustable shelves. This makes the cabinets lighter and easier to clamp together. •

If possible, screw a 1 X3 strip of lumber so its top edge is on the level line for the bottom of the wall cabinets. This is used to support the wall units while they are being fastened.

•

If it is not possible to screw to the wall, build a stand on which to support the unit near the line of installation (as shown below).






2a. Start the installation of wall cabinets in a corner. •

On the wall, measure from the line representing the outside of the cabinet to the stud centers

•

Transfer the measurements to the cabinets

•

Drill shank holes for mounting screws through mounting rails usually installed at the top and bottom of the cabinet

•

Place the cabinet on the supporting strip or stand so its bottom is on the level layout line

•

Fasten the cabinet in place with mounting screws of sufficient length to hold the cabinet securely

•

Do not fully tighten the screws

2b. On masonry walls, first drill holes through the mounting strips. Place the cabinet in position, and mark the location of the drilled holes on the wall. Remove the cabinet. Drill holes into the masonry wall for lead inserts. Replace the cabinet, and screw in place. 3. The next cabinet is installed in the same manner. •

Align the adjoining stiles so their faces are flush with each other

•

Clamp them together with C-clamps

•

Screw the stiles tightly together

•

Continue this procedure around the room Carpentry NC III

JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





•

Tighten all mounting screws

4. If a filler needs to be used, it is better to add it next to a blind corner cabinet or at the end of a run. It may be necessary to scribe the filler to the wall as shown on the illustration below.

Assessment Method:

Direct Observation Performance Criteria Checklist






PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5b Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•

Are all doors and adjustable shelves removed before installing the cabinet?

•

Did I installed wall cabinets in a corner first?

•

Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces were flushed with each other?




NO



OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-5c Title: Performance Objective: Supplies and Materials:

Installing Base Cabinets Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install base cabinets Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •


• • • • • •


Steps/ Procedures: 1. Start • • •

the installation of base cabinets in a comer. Shim the bottom until the cabinet top is on the layout line Then level and shim the cabinet from back to front If cabinets are to be fitted to the floor, shim until their tops are level across width and depth. This will bring the tops above the layout line that was measured from the low point of the floor • Adjust the pencil dividers so the distance between the points is equal to the amount the top of the unit is above the layout line • Scribe this amount on the bottom end of the cabinets by running the dividers along the floor 2. Cut both ends and toeboard to the scribed lines. There is no need to cut the cabinet backs because they do not/ ordinarily, extend to the floor. 3. Place the cabinet in position. •

The top ends should be on the layout line.

4. Fasten it loosely to the wall. Note: The remaining base cabinets are installed in the same manner. Align and clamp the stiles of adjoining cabinets. Fasten them together. 5. Finally, fasten all units securely to the wall Assessment Method:

Portfolio Assessment Performance Criteria Checklist






PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.1.5c Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•

Did I started installing the base cabinets in the corners first?

•

Did I cut both ends and toe board to the scribed lines?

•

Are the cabinets placed in its prescribed positions?

•

Are all adjoining stiles aligned so their faces were flushed with each other?

•

Are all cabinets fastened to the walls securely?




NO



INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6 INSTALLING MANUFACTURED COUNTERTOPS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to be familiar with countertops, where it is made from, and LEARN the procedure in installing manufactured countertops. Countertops are manufactured in various standard lengths. They can be cut to fit any installation against walls. They are also available with one end precut at a 45 degree angle for joining with a similar one at comers. Special hardware is used to join the sections. The countertops are covered with a thin, tough high-pressure plastic laminate. This is generally known as mica. It is available in many colors and patterns. The countertops are called postformed countertops. This term comes from the method of forming the mica to the rounded edges and corners of the countertop. Postforming is bending the mica with heat to a radius of 3/4 inch or less. This can only be done with special equipment. Steps in Installing Manufactured Countertops 1. After the base units are fastened in position, the countertop is cut to length. It is fastened on top of the base units and against the wall. The backsplash can be scribed, limited by the thickness of its scribing strip/ to an irregular wall surface. Use pencil dividers to scribe a line on the top edge of the backsplash. Then plane or belt sand to the scribed line. 2. Fasten the countertop to the base cabinets with screws up through triangular blocks usually installed in the top corners of base units. Use a stop on the drill bit. This prevents drilling through the countertop. Use screws of sufficient length, but not so long that they penetrate the countertop. 3. Exposed cut ends of postformed countertops are covered by specially shaped pieces of plastic laminate. 4. Sink cutouts are made by carefully outlining the cutout and cutting with a saber saw. The cutout pattern usually comes with the sink. Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





Use a fine tooth blade to prevent chipping out the face of the mica beyond the sink. Some duct tape applied to the base of the saber saw will prevent scratching of the countertop when making the cutout.







Install Manufactured Countertop Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install manufactured countertop Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• Hammer

• • • • • •

Marking Tools Measuring Tools Nylon String Steel Square Try-square Hand Saw

• • • • • •


Steps/Procedure: Use pieces 3/4- or 5/8-inch with width of 24 ½ inches panel material for the countertop. 1.

Place the countertop on the base of the cabinets, against the wall. Its outside edge should overhang the face frame the same amount the entire length. Open the pencil divider or scribers to the amount of overhang. 2.

3.

Scribe the back edge of the countertop to the wall.

4.

Cut the countertop to the scribed line.

Place it back on top of the base cabinets. The ends should be flush with the end of the base cabinets. The front edge should be flush with the face of the face frame (as shown below). 5.






Scribing the countertop to fit the wall with its outside edge flush with the face of the cabinet

Install a 1x2 on the front edge and at the ends, if an end overhang is desired. Keep the top edge flush with the top side of the countertop. 6.

If a backsplash is used, rip a 4-inch wide length of ¾ inch stock the same length as the countertop. 7.

Fasten the backsplash on top of and flush with the back edge of the countertop. Use driving screws up through the countertop and into the bottom edge of the backsplash. In corners, fasten the ends of the backsplash together with screws. 8.








YES

•

Is the outside edge of the countertop overhang the face frame the same amount the entire length?

•

Are the ends flushed with the end of the base cabinet?




NO




Installing the Cabinet Ends Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install the cabinet ends Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •


• • • • • •


Steps/Procedure: 1. Cut the cabinet ends to a rough length and width with square ends. The length should be about 36 inches and the width about 23- 1 / 2 inches. 2. Place one end in position. Plumb the outside edge. Use shims between it and the wall and floor, if necessary, to hold it steady. 3. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the top end projects above the top cleat. Scribe this amount on the bottom. 4. Cut the bottom end to the scribed line to fit to the floor. 5. Place the end back in position. Its bottom end should fit the floor. Top end should be flush and level with the top edge of the top cleat, and its outside edge plumb. 6. Adjust the pencil dividers to the same distance the outside edge projects beyond the cabinet bottom. Scribe this amount on the edge against the wall. 7. Cut to the scribed line. 8. Before fastening the end in position, mark and cut a circular arc out of the bottom outside corner for the toespace. The top of the cut is started 1 1/2 inches below the cabinet bottom. The cut is flush with the face of the toeboard at the floor line. Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





9. Smooth the cut edge. 10. Fasten the cabinet end in position. Nail into the end of the cabinet bottom and into the ends of the wall cleats (as shown below). 11. Cut and install the other end in the same manner.

Method of fitting the base cabinet end panels. Assessment Method: Observation Performance Criteria Checklist







YES

NO

1. Did I fastened the cabinet ends in position?

•

Is the flushed cabinet end fits the wall?

• Is the front end of flushed cabinet end plumb? • Is the bottom end fits the floor? • Are the edges of the cabinet ends smooth? • Is the top edge of the cabinet end flushed with the top edge of the countertop cleat?







Making the Face Frame Given the necessary materials, and after installing the cabinet ends, you should be able to make the cabinet face frame. Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •


• • • • • •


Steps/Procedure: 1. Install stiles on each cabinet end. 2. Install the bottom rail between the stiles. Keep the top

edge flush with the top side of the cabinet bottom. 3. Cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same length as the bottom rail. 4. Fastened the top rails by clamping and gluing them

to short blocks of 1X2 stock installed in back of the joint (as shown below).

Construction of the base cabinet face frame






5. Sand all joints flush. 6. Ease all sharp exposed comers.







PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-6c Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•

Is the top edge flushed with the top side of the cabinet bottom?

•

Did I cut the top rail and drawer rail to the same length as the bottom rail?

•

Did I installed a short blocks of 1x2 stock in the back joint of the top rails?

•

Are all flushed joints and sharp exposed corners sanded?




NO



INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7 DRAWER CONSTRUCTION Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to be familiar with the VARIOUS KINDS of JOINTS USED DRAWER CONSTRUCTION. Drawers are classified as overlay, lipped, and flush in the same way as doors. In a cabinet installation, the drawer type should match the door type. Drawer Construction Drawer fronts are generally made from the same material as the cabinet doors. Drawer sides and backs are generally 1/2 inch thick. They may be made of solid lumber/ plywood, or particleboard. Medium-density fiberboard with a printed wood grain is also manufactured for use as drawer sides and backs. The drawer bottom is usually made of 1/4-inch plywood or hardboard. Small drawers may have 1/8-inch hardboard bottoms. Drawer Joints Typical joints between the front and sides of drawers are the dovetail, lock, and rabbet joints. The dovetail joint is used in higher-quality drawer construction. It takes a longer time to make, but is the strongest. Dovetail drawer joints may be made using a router and a dovetail template. The lock joint is simpler. It can be easily made using a table saw. The rabbet joint is the easiest to make. However, it must be strengthened with fasteners in addition to glue.

Figure 52. Typical joints between drawer front and side






Joints normally used between the sides and back are the dovetail, dado and rabbet, dado, and butt joints. With the exception of the dovetail joint, the drawer back is usually set in at least 1/2 inch from the back ends of the sides to provide added strength. This helps prevents the drawer back from being pulled off if the contents get stuck while opening the drawer.

Drawer Bottom Joints The drawer bottom is fitted into a groove on all four sides of the drawer. In some cases, the drawer back is made narrower, the four sides assembled, the bottom slipped in the groove, and its back edge fastened to the bottom edge of the drawer back.

Figure 53. Typical joints between drawer back and side






Figure 54.

Drawer bottom fitted in groove at drawer back.

Figure 55. Drawer bottom fastened to bottom edge of drawer back.







Overlay Drawer Given the necessary materials, you should be able to lay-out the wall where the cabinet will be installed Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •


• • • • • •


Steps/Procedure: 1. Cut the drawer sides to height and length. The height should be about 1/8 inch less than the height of the drawer opening. If metal drawer guides are used, the height of the drawer sides depends on the type and manufacturer of the drawer guide. Care must be taken not to make the drawer sides too long. They are usually made 22 inches long for a standard base cabinet. 2. Dado the sides for the back and front of the drawer, 1/4 inch deep as shown below. The dadoes are cut to the same depth so the front and back can be cut to the same length.

Overlay drawer sides are dadoed on the front and back ends Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





3. Cut the false fronts and backs to width and length. The width is the same as the drawer sides. The length determines the overall width of the drawer. The length should be such to allow the proper clearance between the drawer sides and the opening. This depends on t he type of drawer guides used. A clearance of 1/2 inch on each side is required for most metal side guides- If the drawers are to slide on wood guides, generally about 1/8 inch clearance is required on each side. 4. Rabbet both ends of the false front to fit into the dado in the drawer sides. Round off and smooth the top edges of all sides, fronts, and back. 5. Make a groove on all parts for the drawer bottom. The width of the groove should be such that the drawer bottom will slide easily into it without being forced. The depth of the groove should be about 1/4 inch, if 1/2-inch drawer sides are used. If the groove is too deep, it will weaken the sides. If the groove is too shallow, the bottom may fall out after assembly. The distance from the bottom edge should be about 3/8 inch to the bottom of the groove (as shown below).

Location of the groove for the drawer bottom.

6. Glue and fasten the sides to the back. Slip in the bottom. Do not apply glue to the bottom- Fasten the false front to the sides. 7. Cut and fasten the overlay front to the drawer with screws driven from the inside. Care must be taken to position the drawer front correctly.






Plan view of the overlay drawer. Assessment Method: Observation Performance Criteria Checklist







YES

•

Did I cut the drawer sides to height and length?

•

Did I dadoed the sides for the front and back of the drawer at ¼ inch deep?

•

Is the false fronts and backs cut to its width and length?

•

Did I rabbet the false front of the drawer fit to the dado in the drawer sides?

•

Are the grooves on the drawer sides fit the bottom part of the drawer at ¼ inch deep?

•

Did I allow 3/8 inch distance from the bottom edge to the drawer to the bottom of the groove?

•

Did I glued and fastened the sides of the drawer to the back securely?

•

Is the overlay front cut and fastened to the drawer correctly with screws driven from the side?




NO




Make a Lipped Drawer Given the necessary materials, you should be able to lay-out the wall where the cabinet will be installed Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •


• • • • • •


Steps/Procedure: 1. Cut the front 5/8 inch over the opening size on both the

width and length. 2. Rabbet the top and bottom edges 3/8”x3/8”. 3. On each end, make rabbets 3/8”X7/8” to allow for the

overlap, the thickness of the drawer sides, and clearance. The depth of the rabbet may be greater if more clearance is needed (depending on the type of drawer guide used). 4. Shape the edges and ends of the drawer front as required. 5. Assemble the drawer in a manner similar to that used for

the overlay drawer. 6. The sides are fastened to the rabbeted ends of the drawer

front.






Plan view of the lipped drawer








YES

NO

1. Did I rabbeted the top and bottom edges to 3/8”X 3/8”? 2. Did I rabbeted each end to 3/8”X7/8” allowing for the overlap? 3. Did I assembled the drawer as required?







Make a Flush Drawer Given the necessary materials, you should be able to make a flush drawer Working Drawing/ Plan Lumber, plywood, fasteners


• • • • • • •


• • • • • •


Steps/Procedure: 1. Cut out the drawer front to the overall height and width of the drawer opening. 2. Rabbet the two ends of the drawer front to receive the drawer sides plus an allowance for side clearance. The amount of clearance depends on the type of drawer guide used. 3. Cut out the other drawer parts. 4. Assemble in a manner similar to that used for other type drawers (as shown below). 5. After the drawer is assembled, try it in the opening. Fit the drawer front to the opening by hand planing/ if necessary.






Plan view of the flush drawer







PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.2-7c Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•

Did I cut the drawer front to the overall height and width of the drawer opening?

•

Did I rabbeted the two ends of the drawer front?

•

Is the drawer fitted to the drawer opening?




NO




Assemble and install built-in and prefabricate cabinet components

CONTENTS: 1. Classification of cabinet hardwares and their uses 2. Wood Filling 3. Installing built-in and/or pre-fabricated cabinets components

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA 1. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are set-out in accordance with working drawings and specifications 2. Built-in cabinet components and/or pre-fabricated cabinet assembly are installed in accordance with working drawings and specifications 3. Finishing hardwares are installed as per working drawings 4. Unexpected situation are dealt with in accordance with company rules and regulations 5. Housekeeping is performed according to safety regulations 6. Appropriate PPE is used according to job requirements and safety regulations CONDITIONS: You must be provided with the following: • WORKPLACE LOCATION • Hand Saw • TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT • • • • • •

•

Hammer Marking Tools Measuring Tools Screwdriver Steel Square Try-square

• • • • • •




ASSESSMENT METHOD Portfolio Demonstration






Learning Experience ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL BUILT-IN AND PRE-FABRICATE CABINET COMPONENTS Learning Activities Special Instructions 1. Read Information Sheet No. 4.3-1 on Classification of cabinet hardwares and their uses 2. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the 4.3-1a on Installing Pulls and Performance Criteria Knobs on Doors Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities 3. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the 4.3-1b on Installing Pulls and Performance Criteria Knobs on Doors Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities 4. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the 4.3-1c on Install Magnetic Performance Criteria and/or Friction Catches Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities 5. Read Information Sheet No. 4.3-2 on Wood Filling 6. Perform Operation Sheet No. Evaluate your own work using the 4.3-2 on Apply Wood Filler Performance Criteria Present your work to your trainer for evaluation Keep a copy of your work for the next activities 7. Read Information Sheet No. 4.3-3 on Installing built-in

and/or pre-fabricated cabinets components 8. Perform Operation Sheet No.

Evaluate your own work using the 4.3-3 on Installing Metal Drawer Performance Criteria Guides Present your work to your trainer for evaluation; Keep a copy of your work for the next activities Carpentry NC III

JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1

CLASSIFICATION OF CABINET HARDWARE AND THEIR USES Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to KNOW the different Classification of Cabinet Hardwares and their Uses. 1. Hinges All hinges are used to make a movable joint between two pieces of material. A hinge consists primarily of a pin and two plates. There are three most commonly used hinges: full-mortise, half-surface, and full-surface. Figure 56. Common door hinge

a. Full-Mortise. The full-mortise hinge is cut or mortised (gained) into both the door jamb and the door. The leaves of a full-mortise hinge are completely hidden, leaving only the barrel exposed when the door is closed. Figure 57. Full-mortise hinge

b. Full-Surface. The full-surface hinge is fastened directly to the door and jamb, and no mortise is required. Note that the edges of the full-mortise are beveled. The surface of the frame and door must be flush when full-surface hinges are used.

Figure 58. Full-surface hinge






c. Half-Surface. The half-surface butt-type hinge is like the other hinges, except that one leaf is fastened on the surface of the door and the other leaf fits into a grain in the frame. Figure 59. Half-surface hinge

d. Cabinet Hinges. Hinges come in many styles and finishes for every type of cabinet. Either full-mortise, full-surface, or half-surface hinges are used for cabinet work. A few of the designs of cabinet hinges are shown in Figure 5.

Figure 60. Cabinet hinges

e. Special Hinges. Many other types of hinges are available. Several are shown in below.

Figure 61. Special hinges






2. Hinge Hasps Hinge hasps are like hinges, except for the leaves. One leaf has screw holes for fastening the hasp in place. The other leaf is longer with a slot cut near the outer end. A metal loop, riveted to a square metal base, is used with the hinge hasp. The base of the loop is fastened in place with four screws. The slot in the long leaf of the hasp fits over the loop. A hinge hasp is used with a padlock as a locking device. The long leaf of the safety hasp covers the heads of all screws when it is in the locked position.

Figure 62. Hinge hasps

3. Locks and Striker Plates a. Tubular Locks. Tubular locks have all the advantages of mortise locks, but are much easier to install because they only need bored holes. They are used mainly for interior doors for bedrooms, bathrooms, passages, and closets. They are available with a key tumbler lock in the knob on the outside of the door or with a turn button or push button on the inside.

Figure 63. Tubular lock






b. Cylindrical Locks. Cylindrical locks are basically the same as the tubular type. The cylindrical lock is a sturdy, heavy-duty, and stronger lock, which is used on exterior doors for maximum security.

Figure 64. Cylindrical lock

c. Mortise Locks. Mortise locks are used mainly on front or outside doors for high security. The present trend is away from using mortise locks because of the difficulty and time required to install them.

Figure 65. Mortise lock

d. Dead Bolts. Dead Bolts are used where added security is needed. They are constructed of very hard steel.

Figure 66. Dead bolt locks






e. Rim Locks. Rim locks are easier to install because they are normally installed on the inside surface of exterior doors. One bored hole is usually all that is required.

Figure 67. Rim lock

f. Striker Plate. A striker plate is usually mortised into the frame of the opening for a lock. It prevents the wood from wearing or splitting and cannot be pried loose easily.

Figure 68. Striker plate

4. Pulls and Knobs Cabinet pulls or knobs are used on cabinet doors and drawers. They come in many styles and designs. They are made of metal, plastic, wood, porcelain, or other material.






Figure 69. A few of the many styles of pulls and knobs used on cabinet doors and drawers.

5. Door Catches Doors without self-closing hinges need catches to hold them closed. Catches should be placed where they are not in the way, such as on the bottom of shelves, instead of the top.

Kinds of Catches •

•

Magnetic catches. These are widely used, available in single or double magnets of varying holding power. An adjustable magnet is attached to the inside of the case and a metal plate is attached to the door. Friction catches. Installed in similar manner to that used for magnetic catches. Carpentry NC III

JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





•

•

Elbow catches. These are used to hold one door of a double set. They are released by reaching to the back side of the door. These catches arc usually used when one of the doors is locked against the other. Bullet catches. These are spring loaded. They fit into the edge of the door. When the door is closed, the catch fits into a recessed plate mounted on the frame.

Figure 70. Kinds of catches







Install Pulls and Knobs on Doors Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install pulls and knobs Pulls and knobs


1. Hammer 2. Marking Tools 3. Measuring Tools 4. Try-square

5. Screwdriver 6. Electric drill with drill bits 7. PPE

Steps/Procedure: 1. Drill holes through the door. 2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside. 3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws. 4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that fits over the door. The template can be made so that holes can be drilled for doors that swing in either direction (as shown below).






Using a template when drilling holes for cabinet door pulls Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment Performance Criteria Checklist







YES

•

Did I installed the finishing hardwares as per working drawings?

•

Are all unexpected situation dealt with in accordance with company rules and regulations?

•

Did I performed housekeeping according to safety regulations?




NO



OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1b Title: Performance Objective: Supplies and Materials: Tools and Equipment:

Install Pulls and Knobs on Drawers Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install pulls and knobs Pulls and knobs 1. Hammer 2. Marking Tools 3. Measuring Tools 4. Try-square

5. Screwdriver 6. Electric drill with drill bits 7. PPE

Steps/Procedure: 1. Drill holes through the drawer. 2. Fasten them with machine screws from the inside. 3. When two screws are used to fasten a pull, drill holes slightly oversize in case they are a little off center. This allows the pulls to be fastened easily without cross-threading the screws. Usually 3/16-inch diameter holes are drilled for 1 / 8 inch machine screws. 4. To drill holes quickly and accurately, make a template from scrap wood that fits over the drawer. 5. Align the template center with the center of the drawer. By using the template, all that is required to locate holes is to find the center of any width drawer. The template can be made for use in drawers of different heights (as shown below).






Making template for quick and accurate installation of drawer full Assessment Method: Portfolio Assessment Performance Criteria Checklist







YES

•


•


•





NO



OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1c Title: Performance Objective: Supplies and Materials: Tools and Equipment:

Install Magnetic and/or Friction Catches Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install catches. Magnetic and/or Friction Catches 1.Hammer 5.Screwdriver 2.Marking Tools 6.Electric drill with 3.Measuring Tools drill bits 4.Try-square 7.PPE

Steps/Procedure: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

First attach the magnet. Then place the plate on the magnet. Close the door and tap it opposite the plate. Mark the location of plate projection on the door. Attach the plate to the door where marked. Try the door. Adjust the magnet, if necessary.


PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-1c Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•


•


NO

• Did I performed housekeeping according to safety regulations?

INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.3-2 Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





WOOD FILLERS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to be familiar with the various TYPES OF WOOD FILLERS. Wood fillers fix mistakes, fill holes and cover imperfections in a piece of wood or woodworking project. Certain wood fillers work better in a given situation than others and appear different on separate species of wood. Some wood filler may also act as a glue or adhesive so that joints appear seamless within a woodworking project. Types of Wood Fillers

Epoxy 9. a very hard, durable wood filler that can be used to fill any sized

hole from large and gaping to tiny and minuscule 10. commonly used to fill large spaces since it doesn’t react to heat and

cold by expanding and contracting like other wood fillers 11. generally comes in two parts, in a resin and an adhesive, that mix

together to form a paste. 12. epoxy molds, shapes and stretches easily when wet, making it ideal

to build up, repair or replace extremely damaged or missing areas of wood or woodworking projects 13. because of its durability and strength, mistakes in patching with

epoxy are not easily resolved 14. epoxy may dry clear, white or in a wood tone depending on the

brand and specific type used.

Putty • comes in different colors and shades to match the species of wood or stain used






•

colors may not match perfectly, but closely resemble the wood or stain so that no extra stain or coloring is required to cover the patch

•

if a premixed color doesn’t match the damaged wood, mixing two or more colors together may achieve the desired match

•

wood putty performs best on small- to medium-sized holes

•

should not be used to repair larger holes as it is not as durable as other types of wood filler

•

oil-based wood putty is available for filling small holes such as nail holes and joints for a finished look, and remains flexible after drying.

Glue •

for small holes or imperfections in a woodworking project, a quick wood filler is a clear drying wood glue mixed with some fine sawdust

•

this method creates a patch that closely or completely resembles the original wood.

•

glue and sawdust should only be used to patch very small holes or damages, as it will not hold up structurally or look as good on larger holes

•

sawdust should be made from the existing wood if possible

Sanding Sealers •

as their name implies, these are used to seal the wood and are made for sanding

•

sanding sealers are made with zinc stearate ( a soap-like material ) which is added so that the sandpaper will not gum up while sanding

•

use after staining and prior to finish clear coat

•

sanding sealers are quick drying, allowing for multiple coats in a short period of time and a quick finishing system

•

because of the stearates in them will repel some clear coat finishes Carpentry NC III

JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





•

latex and polyurethanes in particular will not adhere well to these intermediate clear coats

•

it is important that you use a "system" of stain, sealer and clear coat that is compatible

Shellac •

preferred for sanding sealer

•

although shellac will gum up a little when sanding, it is very quick drying

•

will not lift an oil based stain

•

will not re-soften when varnished over

•

shellac (unless "de-waxed") must be overcoated with an oil varnish

•

other finishes will not adhere to shellac because of the naturally occurring wax contained in it

Pre-Stain Sealers •

used on soft woods like pine to allow a more uniform and less freckled stained finish

•

be careful with these, you can overseal the bare wood so that it will not take any stain.






OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-2 Title:

Steps in Using Wood Filler

Performance Objective:

Given the necessary materials, you should be able to install catches. 1. Wood Filler 2. Paint Thinner 3. Primer

Supplies and Materials:

4. Large cloth


1. Standard screwdriver

3. Sandpaper (low and high grain)

2. Scissors or Stanley knife

4. Paintbrush

Steps/Procedure: 1. Sand Holes • A nail or screw hole has to be tidied before filler can be applied •

Rotate a flat head screwdriver in the hole to be filled as this will clean it of any immediate debris

•

Use a small piece of sandpaper to gently rub away at the edges of the hole

•

Be sure to cut away any loose wood fibers with a Stanley knife or small pair of scissors

•

Ignore this step and a paint layer will have visible edges on the surface after painting

2. 2. Apply Filler 1. Get a paste-base wood filler and apply it in the neatened hole 2. Spread enough filler into the hole so a small excess will be left above the surface 3. Sand down excess to leave a perfectly level surface to paint on 4. Do this for all the holes that need filling. 5. Do not use a liquid-based filler, as this is only required for refined grained wood patterns 3 3. Sand Filler 1. Allow the filler to dry before any attempts are made to sand 2. Use a medium or high grain sandpaper and apply even pressure to the areas where you have used the wood filler 3. Sand the filler as even to the surface Carpentry NC III JZGMSAT QA SYSTEM





4. If you do not refine the wood filler with sandpaper, the filled areas will stick out once paint dries over them. 4. 4. Clean 1. Use a large cloth and some hot water to gently wipe over the surface you have been working on 2. Alternatively, use a small amount of paint thinner on the cloth to strip away any flaky areas of paint and woodwork 3. Allow the water or thinner to dry and check that the debris has been cleared 5. Check 1. Run your hand over the top of the surface that will be painted; it should feel smooth and even over the entire area 2. Sand away any lumps you come across 3. Carefully check the surface for any small holes you may have missed and apply extra wood filler accordingly. 4. Apply a layer of primer with a large paintbrush and you are ready to paint once it has dried.







PERFORMANCE CRITERIA CHECKLIST OPERATION SHEET NO. 4.3-2 Name of Trainee:_________________________________ Date: __________________ CRITERIA

YES

•

Did I filled all holes and covered wood imperfections using wood filler?

•

Are all top of surfaces covered with wood filler sanded smooth?

•


•

Did I used appropriate PPE according to job requirements and safety regulations?




NO



INFORMATION SHEET NO. 4.3-3 INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PRE-FABRICATED CABINETS COMPONENTS Learning Objective: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to be familiar INSTALLING BUILT-IN AND/OR PREFABRICATED CABINETS COMPONENTS Drawer Guides There are many ways of guiding drawers. The type of drawer guide selected affects the size of the drawer. The drawer must be supported level and guided sideways. It must also be kept from tilting down when opened.

Figure 71. Wood drawer guides are installed in several ways.






Wood Guides Probably the simplest wood guide is the center strip. It is installed in the bottom center of the opening from front to back. The strip projects above the bottom of the opening about 1/4 inch. The bottom edge of the drawer back is notched to ride in the guide. A kicker is installed. It is centered above the drawer to keep it from tilting downward when opened.

Figure 72. Simple center wood drawer guide. The back of the drawer is notched to run on the guide

Another type of wood guide is the grooved center strip. The strip is placed in the center of the opening from front to back. A matching strip is fastened to the drawer bottom. In addition to guiding the drawer, this system keeps it from tilting when opened, eliminating the need for drawer kickers.

Figure 73. the grooved center wood drawer guide eliminates the need of a kicker.






Another type of wood guide is a rabbeted strip. Strips are used on each side of the drawer opening. The drawer sides fit into and slide along the rabbeted pieces. Sometimes these guides are made up of two pieces instead of rabbeting one piece. A kicker above the drawer is necessary with this type guide.

Figure 74. Rabbeted wood guides are installed on each side of the drawer.

Metal Drawer Guides There are many different types of metal drawer guides. Some have a single track mounted on the bottom center of the opening- Others may be centered above or on each side of the drawer. Nylon rollers mounted on the drawer ride in the track of the guide.






Figure 75. Installing metal drawer guides

Instructions for installation differ with each type and manufacturer. When using commercially made drawer guides, read the instructions first before making the drawer so proper allowances for the drawer guide can be made.






Cblm_Install Built-In and or Pre-fabricated Cabinets

Recommend Documents