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porch or patio
candle lanterns
Discover a clever method for cutting half-lap joints safely and accurately with this fun and practical project. You can mix and match three heights to suit your style. DP-00266
©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003
Page 1 of 7
Note: Buy glass before you make the lanterns so you can size the base rabbet. (We used ¤" cord glass.) To build the three different size lanterns, have your glass dealer cut four 3¨"-wide pieces each to 3‡", 4‡", and 5‡" long.
Make a jig first, then the stiles and rails 1 Make the half-lap jig shown on
fi"
fi" ›"
#8 x 1fi" brass F.H. wood screw
Base
fi" dado ¤" deep
¤"
fi" dado ‹" deep
Drawing 1 to cut the ends of the stiles (A) and rails (B). 2 Resaw and plane stock to ‹" thick for the stiles and rails. The stock thickness must equal the depth of the center dado in the halflap jig for accurate joints. Rip the stock into fi"-wide strips. (You’ll need about 21 feet of ‹×fi" stock for the three lanterns shown.) 3 Crosscut the stiles (A) and rails (B) to the lengths listed in the Materials List.
¸" hole, countersunk
8fi"
3" ‡" MDF or plywood
7⁄64"
holes ‡" deep
8fi"
1
fi" rabbet ¤" deep
Handle
2"
HALF-LAP JIG
A
AME:148Lanterns1.eps 1-03 J. Keep the end of the stile or rail pressed against the saw fence when you cut the half laps. Page 2 of 7
4 Install a fi" dado blade in your
A STILES
saw, and add an auxiliary fence. Locate the fence next to the dado set. Now, lay a stile (A) into the dado in the half-lap jig. Place the jig facedown on the saw table with the rabbeted edge against the auxiliary fence, trapping the stile against the table. Push the stile against the fence. Cut a half lap on one end of each stile, and both ends of each rail, where shown on Drawing 2 and as shown in Photo A. Reset the fence, rotate the jig, and cut the half laps on the lower end of each stile.
Assemble the sides 1 Referring to Drawing 3, glue
and assemble the four sides for each lantern, keeping each side square. 2 Cut a ¤" groove ¤" deep in each side assembly, where shown on Drawing 3. 3 Bevel both edges of each side to 45°. (We beveled the edges with a router table and 45° chamfer bit.)
B RAILS
‹"
fi"
4‹"
Large 6›"
fi"
Medium 5›" fi" laps ¤" deep
2
Small 4›"
STILES AND RAILS ›" ‹"
B
Make the bases 1 Cut the bases (C) to size. Cut
the rabbets, where shown on Drawings 3 and 3a. Make the width of the rabbets ‰" plus the thickness of the glass. 2 Drill four ‹" drainage holes in each base, where shown on Drawing 3a.
Glue up the lanterns, and make the trim 1 Lay four assembled lantern
sides side-by-side on the workbench with the grooved and mitered faces down. Put strips of masking tape across them at the top and the bottom. Carefully flip NAME:148Lanterns2.eps the taped assemblies over. 2 Apply glue to the sides’ bev1-03 eled edges. Place the tongue of J. the base (C) into the groove in one side (don’t glue) and wrap the other sides around the base, as shown in Photo B. Similarly assemble the other two lanterns.
Wrap the sides around the base (C) and secure with strips of masking tape. Glue the miters, but don’t glue the base into the grooves.
Page 3 of 7
D
‹" round-over
D
45° miters
D Cord glass
5¤" D
3¨"
24-gauge copper iris silhouette
3‡" for small lantern 4‡" for medium lantern 5‡" for large lantern
45° miters
¤" groove ¤" deep
B A
ˇ" rabbet ‹" deep
fi" A
B
fi" ›"
3
nterns3.eps
EXPLODED VIEW
¤"
C
4‹"
4"
4"
3a
4"
BASE DETAIL
C
ˇ" rabbet ‹" deep
fi"
‹" drain holes
4"
fl"
fl"
ˇ" Page 4 of 7
3 Cut three fi×1×24" pieces of
stock for the top trim (D). Rout a ‹" round-over on one edge of each piece, as shown in Step 1 of Drawing 4. 4 Rabbet the stock with your tablesaw, as shown in Step 2. 5 Miter-cut the trim pieces (D) to length. Install the glass in the lantern, and dry-fit the trim pieces. The trim’s ¤" lip fits inside the glass. Glue and clamp the top trim frame together. 6 Cut out the copper iris motifs, using the patterns on page 7 , and the instructions on pages 6 and 7.
Finish the parts, and install the glass 1 Sand all the parts. Apply a clear, exterior finish. 2 Slide the glass into the base grooves, smooth side out. Epoxy a top trim assembly in place. 3 Apply a dab of quick-set epoxy to the back of each iris cutout. Now, position the iris cutouts on opposite corners of the lantern. 4 Set a votive candle at the base’s center. A long fireplace match or a butane fire lighter makes lighting the wick easy. ¿ Produced by Marlen Kemmet Project design: Kevin Boyle Graphic Design: C. L. Gatzke Illustrations: Mike Mittermeier; Lorna Johnson Photographs: Marty Baldwin ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003
The purchase of these plans does not transfer any copyright or other ownership interest in the plans, the design, or the finished project to the buyer. Buyer may neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer for sale any copies of the finished project.
4
TOP TRIM
STEP 1 Fence 1"
D
fi" ¤"
‹" round-over bit
STEP 2 ¤"
›"
Fence
D
Tablesaw
‹" dado blade
Materials List FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty. 1 1 A small lantern stiles ⁄ 4" ⁄2" 43⁄8" M 8 1 3 A* medium lantern stiles ⁄4" ⁄2" 5 ⁄8" M 8 1 1 A* large lantern stiles ⁄ 4" ⁄2" 63⁄8" M 8 1 1 B* rails ⁄ 4" ⁄2" 41⁄4" M 24 3 C bases ⁄ 8" 4" 4" M 3 1 D* top trim ⁄ 2" 1" 51⁄8" M 12 *Parts initially cut oversize. See instructions. Material key: M–mahogany. Supplies: #8×1fi" brass flathead wood screws; cord glass, four pieces each 3¨×3‡", 3¨×4‡", 3¨×5‡"; quick-set epoxy; 24-gauge×4×10" copper. Bits and blades: Stack dado set, ‹" round-over and 45° chamfer router bits.
Page 5 of 7
Create copper motifs Here’s an easy way to “metal” with a woodworking project and add to its styling.
T
ake a minute to see how the iris accents at right greatly enhance the appeal of the candle lantern. As you’ll soon discover, there’s no mystery to making them. For materials, you will need 24-gauge sheet copper, available at home centers, or hardware, crafts, and hobby stores. You’ll also need a paper pattern (to be found on page 7), spray adhesive, ¤" hardboard scrap, and the simple three-step process described below.
Cut the pattern Rough-cut three pieces of ¤" hardboard and two pieces of sheet copper to slightly larger than the paper pattern you wish to duplicate in copper. Using spray adhesive, make a sandwich blank, bonding together the five pieces, placing the copper where shown in the photo. Adhere the pattern to the sandwich top. Now, drill any needed blade start holes through the pattern for inside cuts, and scrollsaw the pattern to shape using a no. 2 blade (20 teeth per inch) at high speed. Note: If you need only one motif, go with two pieces of hardboard and one piece of copper. For quality control, avoid scrollsawing more than two pieces of copper in this manner at the same time.
1
Sand the burrs
pry apart the scrollsawn sandwich, wipe off 2andCarefully the adhesive from the copper motif with paint thinner, rinse with water. Next, place the motif on a flat surface, and, with a sanding block and 220-grit sandpaper, sand the copper surface, removing any burrs along the edges of the piece.
Page 6 of 7
Apply the heat
a piece of scrap copper 3torchPlace on scrapwood. Using a propane on a low setting, apply heat
to the copper, keeping the nozzle about three inches from the surface. Move the flame back and forth to avoid scorching. What you want is a pinkish orange coloration like that in the motifs at the top of page 6. Once you feel confident with the process, try flaming your motif, as seen left.¿
FULL-SIZE IRIS PATTERNS
SMALL LANTERN
MEDIUM LANTERN
LARGE LANTERN
FULL-SIZE PATTERNS FOR THREE DIFFERENT SIZE LANTERNS
Page 7 of 7
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