Burda's Instruction a-D

project instructions

102-

Preparation

Construction

082014-US

Trace pieces 1-7 from pattern sheet. Note different grainlines for main fabric and lining on pieces 1 and 2. Trace pocket from piece 1 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Cut the pocket pieces of main fabric and lining on straight grain (see cutting layouts).

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Cutting

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Long jacket  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 32 Finished back length: 37 1 ⁄ 2" (95 cm)

Materials Crushed linen, 54" (137 cm) wide, cut on bias: size 36: 33 ⁄ 4 yds (3.4 m); size 38: 37 ⁄ 8 yds ( 3.5 m); size 40: 4 yds (3.6 m); size 42: 41 ⁄ 8 yds (3.7 m); size 44: 41 ⁄ 4 yds (3.80 m) Stretch lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: 13 ⁄ 4 yds (1.6 m) for all sizes Interfacing Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Black pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 1 to 7 Size 36 3333 Size 38 44 4444 44 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 77 77

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown in cutting layouts and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Linen: 1 front with integrated yoke, cut 2 1 pocket piece, cut 2 2 back, cut 2 3 upper sleeve, cut 2 4 under sleeve, cut 2 5 collar, cut 2 as a bias piece (see layout) 6 front facing, cut 2 7 back facing, cut 1 on fold a) 2 belt carriers, a total of 8" (20 cm) long, and 1 5 ⁄ 8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances b) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 71" (180 cm); size 38: 72 3 ⁄ 4" (185 cm); sizes 40, 42: 75" (190 cm); size 44: 76 3 ⁄ 4" (195 cm) long, and 3 1 ⁄ 4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 1 front, cut 2 to lining line 1 pocket, cut 2 2 back, cut 2 to lining line 3 upper sleeve, cut 2 4 under sleeve, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on pattern layout. Fuse interfacing to undercollar piece. Also interface hem allowances.

Stitch center back seam. Press seam allowances open. Stitch back darts and press toward center. Stitch front darts, beginning exactly at marked neck edge. Cut darts open to within 1 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) from the point. Press darts open, pressing dart points flat. Stitch integrated back yokes of front pieces to back. Press seam allowances toward yokes. Stitch darts in front facings. Stitch shoulder seams of facing. Press seam allowances open. Notched collar and front edges: With right sides together, pin facing to jacket, easing in a little extra fullness at lapel corners. Stitch facing to front and lapel edges, as far as seam mark. Leave facing lying on jacket, right sides together, for time being. Stitch collar pieces together along outer edges, easing a little extra fullness onto top collar and beginning and ending stitching exactly at attachment edge seamline. Turn collar right-side out. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket. Stitch upper collar piece to facing. Press collar attachment seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Pin collar attachment seams together exactly. Turn Turn back facing up and stitch seam allowances together, close to collar attachment seam. Turn facing down again. 

Inseam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket piece s to seam together, allowances of pocket opening edges– pocket lining in front and linen pocket in back. Stitch linen pockets in place, along marked seamline. Stitch pocket lining pieces to seam allowances 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces forward, trim evenly and stitch together. 

Stitch side seams. Press seam allowances open. 

Cutting layouts Crushed linen, 54" (137 cm) wide Selvedges

At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place, leaving facing edges free. 

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide Fold

d l o F

Selvedges

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.

FALL 2014

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Stitch sleeve seams. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. 

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Set in sleeves, easing sleeve caps.

With right sides together together,, fold belt carrier strip lengthwise. Stitch 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) from folded edge. Turn strip right-side out and cut into 2 equal length pieces. Turn ends of belt carriers under to a finished length of 2 3 ⁄ 4" (7 cm). Stitch belt carriers to jacket as marked. 

Sew lining: On lining backs, stitch center back seam allowances together. Stitch darts and seams. Set in sleeve linings. 

Line jacket; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge, matching yoke attachment seams to seam marks on back facing. With wrong sides together, lay lining in jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press. 

Green pattern line, sheets A1-A2 Pattern pieces 21 to 29 Size 36 Size 38 == === = Size 40 CC CCC C Size 42 67 67 Size 44 A A A A A

E E E E E

With right sides together, fold tie belt lengthwise. Trim each end at an angle. Stitch edges together, leaving an opening for turning. Turn belt right-side out. Sew seam opening closed. 

Cutting layout Tweed, 60" (152.5 cm) wide

103-

Fold

082014-US Jacket 

Construction Stitch side pieces to fronts and back, easing fronts from • to •. Press seam allowances open. 

PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 50 Finished back length: 19" (48 cm) Sleeves: 6" (15 cm) shorter than normal

Materials Tweed, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 13 ⁄ 4 yds (1.6 m) for all sizes Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 36: 1 1 ⁄ 8 yd (1 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 1 1 ⁄ 4 yds I1.1 m) Interfacing Notions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons

23 back, cut 1 on a fold 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2 26 under sleeve, cut 2 27 collar, cut 2 on fold 28 front facing, cut 2 29 back facing, cut 1 on fold a) 2 front hem bands: size 36: 11 1 ⁄ 4" (29 cm); size 38: 12" (30.5 cm); size 40: 121 ⁄ 2" (31.5 cm); size 42: 13" (33 cm); size 44: 131 ⁄ 2" (34 cm) long; 1 back hem band, size 36: 191 ⁄ 2" (49.5 cm); size 38: 20 1 ⁄ 2" (52 cm); size 40: 21 1 ⁄ 4" (54 cm); size 42: 223 ⁄ 8" (56.5 cm); size 44: 23 1 ⁄ 8" (58.5 cm) long, each 3 1 ⁄ 4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) 2 sleeve bands: size 36: 13" (33 cm); size 38: 131 ⁄ 2" (34 cm); size 40: 13 5 ⁄ 8" (34.5 cm); size 42: 13 3 ⁄ 4" (35 cm); size 44: 141 ⁄ 4" (36 cm) long, and 3 1 ⁄ 4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 21 front, cut 2 to lining line 22 side, cut 2 23 back, cut 1 with 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining line 25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2 minus neck facing 26 under sleeve, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Interface outer half of waistband and outer half of each sleeve band.

Selvedges

Cut from a double layer of fabric, right sides together together..

Stitch under sleeves to front and back sleeve (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch center seam on back yoke. Press seam allowances open. 

Stitch front yokes to fronts from neck edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, from front corner to back corner (seam number 5), matching seam marks 6. Clip seam allowance of back yoke into corners. Stitch back yoke to back from corner to corner. Press seam allowances toward yokes and toward sleeves above 

Buttonholes and button markings on piece 21 are for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark top buttonhole same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom buttonhole is same for all sizes. Center other buttonhole exactly between. Mark new button positions accordingly accordingly..
















together, fold and press sleeve bands in half. Stitch sleeve band edges together to lower sleeve edges, matching sleeve band seams to lower sleeve seams. Press seam allowances up. On hem band, stitch side seams. Stitch hem band to lower jacket edge. Press seam allowances open. 

On lining back, baste ease pleat. Press pleat to one side and baste to upper and lower edges. Stitch lining seams. Gather lower edge of sleeve lining. With right sides together, stitch lining to inside jacket facing edge. Press seam allowances toward lining.

Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left front, stitch top buttonhole for inside button. Stitch a buttonhole in each end of hem band, for inside button on the left. Lay jacket closed, matching center fronts. Sew buttons in place, to match buttonholes and as marked. 

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With right sides together together,, pin facing and lining to jacket. Fold hem band half to outside and stitch inside hem band edges to lower facing edges (not to lining), right sides together. Clip seam allowance of waistband 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) from inside facing edge. Press seam allowances open toward front edge. Stitch along front waistband ends, front edges, and neck edges, up to seam mark. Leave facing and lining lying on jacket, right sides together, for the time being. 

With right sides together, stitch collar pieces along outer edges, beginning and ending exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar right-side out and press. Lay collar between jacket and facing. Stitch undercollar to neck edge of jacket and stitch top collar to facing. Press seam allowances of collar attachment seams open. Turn facing and lining to inside and turn hem band right side out. Pin collar attachment seams together together.. Reach between outer fabric and lining to grasp collar attachment seam allowances and pull them out. Stitch seam allowances together close to seams. Push collar attachment seams in place again. Lay inside hem band edge flat over attachment seam. Stitch from right side along attachment seam, catching inner edge. 

Pull sleeve linings into jacket sleeves. At each sleeve seam, turn lining edge under and pin to sleeve band attachment seam with a single straight pin. Reach between outer fabric and lining to first pull out lower edges of one sleeve. Remove pin but hang on to edges. With right sides together, stitch lower edges of sleeve and 

103.1082014-US Coat  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT AT:: http://bit.ly/1k9sLFD

10 front band with self-facing, cut 2 11 back facing, cut 1 on fold a) 2 pocket pieces, 63 ⁄ 8" × 63 ⁄ 8"(16 × 16 cm) Lining: 1 front yoke with sleeve, cut 2 to lining line 3, 4 upper and lower front, cut 2 to lining line 5 back yoke with sleeve, cut 2 minus neck facing 6 back, cut 2 3 a) 2 pocket pieces, 63 ⁄ 8" × 6 ⁄ 8" (16 × 16 cm) Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Also interface hem allowances.

Construction With right sides together together,, pin each pocket lining piece to pocket opening edge of lower front piece. Stitch to seam allowance, 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces up and understitch close to attachment seams. With right sides together, lay each bouclé pocket piece on upper fronts between markings. Stitch to seam allowances 3 ⁄ 16" (5 mm) from seamline. Press pocket pieces down. 

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 61 Finished back length: 38" (97 cm)

Materials 3 4 Bouclé, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 2 ⁄ 7 yds (2.5 m); sizes 38, 40: 2 ⁄ 8 yds (2.6 m); sizes 42, 44: 3 yds (2.65 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5 2 yds (1.8 m); sizes 42, 44: 2 ⁄ 8 yds (2.4 m) Interfacing Notions: 6 large sew-on snap fasteners

Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1, 3, 4-6, 10, and a nd 11 from pattern sheet. Trace front yoke with integrated sleeve up to band attachment line. Cut out all paper pieces. Snap fasteners marked on piece 10 are for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark top snap same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom snap is same for all sizes. Space other snaps evenly between. Front lining piece: Lay pieces 3 and 4 together; this creates a small space at side edge which will become a small pleat. See pattern layout.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following

Stitch upper fronts to lower fronts, leaving pocket openings free. Press seam allowances open and press pocket pieces down. Trim pocket pieces evenly and st itch edges together together.. 

Stitch center seams on back and back yoke. Press seam allowances open. 

Yokes with integrated sleeves: Stitch each front yoke with sleeve to front piece, from seam number 6 to corner. Clip seam allowances of front yokes into corners. Stitch sleeve fronts to front armhole edges. Stitch back yoke with sleeves to back, from corner to corner. Clip seam allowance of yoke into corners. Stitch sleeve backs to back armhole edges. Press seam allowances of yoke attachment seams open. Press seam allowances of sleeve attachment seams toward sleeves. 

Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances open. 

Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. 
















corners. At neck edge, turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside and press edges. Fold small pleat in each front lining piece and baste. Stitch lining seams. 

Sew in lining; hem: With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside coat, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Turn lining edge under along hem edge and press fold lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra lining length down and press lightly. On each sleeve, turn lining edge under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length down and press. 

Stitch front coat edges along lines of band attachment seams. 

Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew top halves of snaps to right front facing as marked, not exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay coat closed, matching center fronts. Mark placement of bottom halves of snaps on left front band. Sew bottom halves of snaps in place. Close pocket openings with one snap each. 


Preparation Trace pieces 21-23 from pattern sheet. Lengthen piece 21 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces. Stitching line at zipper opening is marked for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark stitching line same distance from center front as for size 36, noting length of opening.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Jacquard: 21 front trouser, trouser, cut 2 21 pocket, cut 4 22 back trouser, cut 2 23 waistband, cut 4 a) left underlap: sizes 36, 38, 40: 5" (12.5 cm); sizes 42, 44: 6" (14.5 cm) long, and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.

Construction Stitch back darts and press toward center. Stitch forward side seams, leaving center. pocket openings free. Press seams open. 

103B082014-US Trousers  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1nwQ0bG

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 42 Finished side length including waistband: 413 ⁄ 4" (106 cm) Waistband sits 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) below natural waistline Leg hem circumference: 24 1 ⁄ 2" (62 cm)

Materials Jacquard, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36:

In-seam pockets: With right sides together, pin pocket pieces to seam together, allowances on inside of pocket opening edges. Stitch in place directly along marked seamlines. Above pocket openings, stitch pocket pieces close to seam. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch edges together. Baste upper pocket edges in place. At each end of each pocket opening, make a few stitches horizontally horizontally.. 

Stitch inside leg seams. Stitch center front seam from opening mark to inside leg seam. 

Insert zipper: Press self-facings on opening edges to inside. On the right, stitch along center front and on left, stitch 3 ⁄ 16 16 " (5 mm) before center front. Topstitch close to right opening edge. Stitch zipper under left opening edge 

lengthwise and stitch across bottom. Turn right-side out. Lay underlap under left opening edge and pin to facing. Stitch facing to underlap, close to zipper attachment seam. Lay opening closed again and topstitch to end, catching underlap. Waistband and center back seam: Stitch outer waistband pieces to upper trouser edge. Leave right waistband end extending from center front. Stitch left waistband to underlap and leave remainder extending. Press seam allowances of attachment seams toward waistband pieces. With right sides together, lay inside waistband pieces on attached waistband pieces and stitch upper edges together. Turn inside waistband wai stband pieces up and understitch close to sea m. Trim extending right waistband end 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) before center front. Attach trouser hook to inside waistband piece 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) from right waistband end. Stitch center back seam on trousers and waistband. Press seam allowances open from upper edge to beginning of crotch curve. Do not press seam allowances flat along curve. At front waistband ends, lay inside waistband on outside waistband and turn seam allowance on inside waistband edge up. Stitch across waistband ends. Turn waistband right-side out. Tu Turn rn in underlap edges and sew s ew together. Turn inside waistband edge under for 1 5 ⁄ 8" (4 cm) long, and baste, then lay remaining edge flat over attachment seam. From trouser right side, stitch along attachment seam, catching inside waistband edge. Attach fastener bar to waistband, to match hook location. Stitch buttonhole in left waistband end for inside button. 

Press hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. 

104082014-US Coat  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT AT:: http://bit.ly/1lHaVGz
















sizes 42, 44: 33 ⁄ 8 yds (3 m) Lining, 54" (137cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 21 ⁄ 4 yds (2.05 m); size 40: 2 1 ⁄ 2 yds (2.2 m); sizes 42, 44: 25 ⁄ 8 yds (2.25 m) Interfacing Notions: 8 buttons; 2 flat inside buttons Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-29 from patter n sheet. Lengthen pieces 21, 23, and 28 as indicated. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all pattern pieces. Buttonholes and button markings on piece 21 are for size 36. For sizes 38 – 44, mark top buttonhole the same distance from neck edge as for size 36. Bottom buttonhole buttonhole is at the same location for all sizes. Mark remaining buttonholes between. Mark new button positions accordingly.

Inseam pockets: With right sides together, together, pin pocket pieces to seam allowances of pocket opening edges, pinning pocket lining pieces to fronts and tweed pocket pieces to side pieces. Stitch pocket pieces in place, directly along marked seamlines. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch edges together. 

Stitch sides to back. Press seam allowances open. 

Stitch under sleeves to front and back sleeves (seam numbers 3 and 4). Stitch center back yoke seam. Press seam allowances open. 

Stitch front yokes to fronts, from neck edge to corner. Clip yoke seam allowances into corners. Stitch sleeves to armhole edges, from front corner to back corner (seam number 5), matching seam marks. Clip back yoke seam allowance into corners. Stitch back yoke to back, from corner to corner. Press seam allowances toward yokes and toward sleeves above underarm curve. 

Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Stitch facing shoulder seams. Press seam allowances open. 

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Tweed: 21 front, cut 2 21 pocket, cut 2 22 side, cut 2 23 back, cut 1 on fold 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2 26 under sleeve, cut 2 27 collar collar,, cut 2 on fold 28 front facing, cut 2 29 back facing, cut 1 on fold Lining: 21 front, cut 2 to lining line 21 pocket, cut 2 22 side, cut 2 23 back, cut 1 with 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 24 sleeve front with yoke, cut 2 to lining line 25 sleeve back with yoke, cut 2 minus neck facing 26 under sleeve, cut 2 Interfacing:

Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. 

With right sides together together,, pin facing to coat. Stitch along front and neck edges, up to seam mark. Leave facing lying on coat, right sides together, for time being. 

With right sides together together,, stitch outer collar edges, beginning and ending exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar right-side out and press. Lay collar between coat and facing. Stitch undercollar to coat neck edge and stitch top collar to facing. Press seam allowances open. Turn facing to inside. Press front edges. Pin collar attachment seams together.. In back, turn facing up again and together understitch close to collar attachment seam. Turn facing down. 

At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem allowance to inside, then turn down again. 

On lining back, stitch ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5 cm) long, and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams. 

lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and lightly. pin to coat hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Turn Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowances. Lay extra length of sleeve linings down and press. Stitch buttonholes in right front. On left front, stitch top and bottom buttonholes for inside buttons. Sew buttons in place, to match buttonholes as marked. 

104B082014-US Dress  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT AT:: http://bit.ly/1tqUSCR

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 43 Finished length from waist: 25 3 ⁄ 4" (65 cm)

Materials Washed crêpe satin, 54" (137 cm): sizes 36, 38, 40: 3 yds (2.7 m); sizes 42, 44: 31 ⁄ 8 yds (2.75 m) Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper, 24" (60 cm) long Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-5 from patter n sheet. Tape pieces 1 and 1a together as marked and lengthen as indicated. Lengthen piece 2 as indicated. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Washed crêpe satin: 1 front with sleeves, cut 1 2 back with sleeve, cut 2 3 side, cut 2 4 lower sleeve, cut 2 5 back neck facing, cut 2
















between front/back and sleeves. Also fuse strips 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) wide to wrong side of zipper opening edges.

Construction On front, lay pleat in direction of arrow and baste. Press pleat fold. Topstitch as marked. Remove basting.

Materials Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 13 ⁄ 8 yds (1.2 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper zipper,, 9" (22 cm) long

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Side pieces and lower sleeve pieces: Stitch side pieces to front piece, from corner (seam number 1) and to back pieces, from corners (seam number 2). Clip seam allowances of front and back into corners. Stitch lower sleeve pieces to integrated sleeves of front and back (seam numbers 3 and 4). Press seams open. Stitch lower sleeve pieces to armhole edges of side pieces, from corner to corner, matching seam marks. 

With right sides together together,, stitch back neck facings to neck edges of back pieces. Trim seam allowances. Turn facings up and understitch close to seams. Turn facings to inside. Press edges. Baste facing ends in place. 

Sew invisible zipper to center back opening edges (see instructions on page 66). Begin at neck edge and leave ends of zipper tapes extending at the top. Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper.. Turn upper ends of zipper tapes zipper ta pes under and sew to neck edge, together with seam allowances. 

Turn the dress wrong side out. On front self facing, finish inside edge. With right sides together, pin back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Lay self-facing of front over the back and pin side facing ends to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances forward. Turn dress right-side out. Turn front facing to inside. 

Press hem allowances on dress and sleeves to inside and hand-stitch in place. 


Preparation Trace pieces 1-5 from pattern sheet. Trace the facing from pieces 1 and 2 as separate pattern pieces. Cut out all paper pieces.

082014-US Skirt 

2

2

4444

6

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch jersey: 1 right front skirt, cut 1 1 right side front facing, cut 1 2 left front skirt, cut 1 2 left side front facing, cut 1 3 back skirt, cut 2 4 front facing, cut 1 on fold 5 back facing, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Cutting layout Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Selvedge

Construction Stitch front and back darts. Press darts toward centers. 

With right sides together together,, pin side front facings to corresponding front skirt panels. Beginning at side seam edge, stitch along marked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facings over seam allowances and understitch close to seams. Turn facings to inside and press edges. Baste facings to side seam edges. 

With wrong side facing right side and matching center fronts, lay right skirt front over left skirt front. Baste together along upper and side edges. 

Sew invisible zipper at center back opening (see instructions on page 66). Stitch center back seam from lower edge to zipper. Press seam allowances open. 

105A-

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 1 to 5 Size 34 2 2 Size 36 3333 Size 38 Size 40 55 Size 42 666 Size 44 77 77



Stitch side seams on skirt and facing.

Upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. together, 

Selvedge

Cut from a single layer of fabric, right side up. up. Lay the the asymmetri asymmetricc front skirt piecess on the piece the right right side of of the fabric, fabric, with printed pattern side up. Lay the side facings facings on on the right side side of the fabric with their printed side down. Cut right and left pieces as opposites.

opening edges to inside. Turn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside, and hand-


















106-

to zipper. Press seam allowances open.

082014-US

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Stitch side seams, leaving godet free at left side seam. Stitch side seams of facing. Press seam allowances open.

Skirt  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON

Upper skirt edge: With right sides together, pin facing to upper skirt edge. At together, zipper opening, turn facing ends back 3 ⁄ 16 16" (5 mm) before opening edge, and pin to upper edge. Turn seam allowances on skirt opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over facing. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances at opening edges to inside. Tu Turn rn facing up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn facing to inside, and handstitch to zipper tapes and seams. 

INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 52 Finished length: 23 3 ⁄ 4" (60 cm)

Materials

Red pattern line, sheets B1-B2 Pattern pieces 1 to 6 Size 34 2 2 Size 36 3333 Size 38 Size 40 55 Size 42 666 Size 44 77 77 2

Silk satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 1 ⁄ 8 yds (1.4 m) for all sizes Interfacing Notions: 1 invisible zipper zipper,, 9" (22 cm) long 5

2

4444

6

At hem edge, unfold facing. Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. At godet attachment seam, turn edge under and sew in place. Turn facing to inside again and sew in place over hem. Topstitch 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from faced edge. 


Preparation Trace pieces 1-6 from pattern sheet. Trace the facing from piece 2 as a separate pattern piece. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Silk satin: 1 right front skirt, cut 1 2 left front skirt, cut 1 2 left side front facing, cut 1 3 back skirt, cut 2 4 front facing, cut 1 on fold 5 back facing, cut 2 6 godet, cut 1 on fold Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Cutting layout Silk satin, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Selvedge

108082014-US

Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 57 Finished back length: 33 1 ⁄ 2" (85 cm) Sleeves: 11 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) longer than normal

Materials Fine stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide,


















Cutting

Red pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 21 to 23 and 25 Size 36 AAAAA Size 38 == === = Size 40 CC CCC C Size 42 Size 44 67

67

EEEEE

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Fine stretch jersey: 21 center front, cut 1 on fold 22 center back, cut 1 on fold 23 side piece with sleeve, cut 2 25 collar collar,, cut 1 on fold Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to back shoulder seam edges.

Construction Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin machine needle to keep them flexible. Front and back section seams: With right sides together, lay side pieces with sleeve onto center front. Pin front section seam from seam number 1 to hem edge. Stitch seams. Pin remaining edges of side and sleeve pieces to side edges of center back (seam number 2). Stitch seams. Neaten edges together and press toward centers.

front on center back, folding sleeves lengthwise. Stitch shoulder and sleeve as continuous seam – beginning at marked sleeve hem line, angle stitching to outer edge. Neaten seam allowances together and press toward back. Stitch center back seam on collar. Press seam allowances open. With wrong sides together,, fold collar on foldline. Stitch together attachment edges of collar together to neck edge. Trim seam allowances to 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm), neaten edges together together,, and press toward collar colla r. 

Turn hem allowances on top and sleeves to wrong side. From right side, use twin machine needle to stitch hems 1 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) from lower edges. 



Shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams: With right sides together, lay center 

Cutting layouts

109082014-US Bustier  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 56 Finished length from waist: 4 3 ⁄ 4" (12 cm)

Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide with pattern repeat Selvedge

Extra pattern, shaded pink


















Cutting layouts Gabardine, 60" (152.5 cm) wide, Sizes 34 – 44 Fold

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137 cm) cm wide, Sizes 34, 36 Fold

Cutting

Cutting

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Stretch gabardine: 1 center front, cut 2 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back cut 2 4 side back, cut 2 5 front peplum, cut 2 6 back peplum, cut 2 Lining and interfacing: Cut same as for gabardine. Fuse interfacing to corresponding gabardine pieces.

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Top: 21 front, cut 1 on fold 22 back, cut 1 on fold a) back neck edge facing strip, size 34: 34: 83 ⁄ 8" (21 cm); sizes 36, 38: 83 ⁄ 4" (22 cm); sizes 40, 42: 91 ⁄ 8" (23 cm) long, and 1 5 ⁄ 8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances Shrug: 23 back with integrated sleeve, cut 2 Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of armhole edges and back neck edge of top, and to wrong side of neck and lower edges of shrug.

Construction See detailed instructions for style 109082014-US on Sew This! on page 106 of the magazine.

Selvedges

Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide, Sizes 38 – 44 Selvedges

111-

Top

Top





DOWNLOAD AT AT:: http://bit.ly/1jbAOfZ

Fold

Note: Stitch seams on stretch fabrics with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger. Stitch hems with a twin sewing machine needle to keep them flexible.

082014-US PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A

d l o F

Construction

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 30 Finished back length of top: 28 3 ⁄ 4" (73 cm) Shrug sleeves: 3" (7 cm) longer than normal

With wrong sides together, fold and press facing strip for back neck edge lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to back neck edge so that folded edge lies on garment piece 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along neck edge seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. Topstitch 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from neck edge. With right sides together, baste back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Turn Tu rn self-facing of front over back on foldline, and pin to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams. Pull back out of front. Lay facing on front. Press shoulder seams, but 

Materials Selvedge Selv edgess Selve Selvedges dges

Materials

Fine jersey for top and shrug (made in one fabric), 60" (152.5 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 21 ⁄ 8 yds (1.9 cm); sizes 40, 42: 21 ⁄ 4 yds (2 m) Fine jersey for the top, 60" (152.5 cm)


















Press seam allowances on neck and lower edges to inside and turn edges under.. From right side, use twin needle to under stitch 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from each edge. 



Stitch sleeve seams (seam number 3).

Press sleeve hem allowances to inside, turn in, and stitch in place using twin needle. 

long, and 1 5 ⁄ 8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances d) tie belt, a total of: size 34/36: 61" (155 cm); size 38/40: 65" (165 cm); size 42/44: 69" (175 cm) long, and 3 1 ⁄ 2" (9 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on pattern layout. Interface outer band pieces. Fuse bias stay tape to wrong side of front shoulder edges.

111.1-

Construction

082014-US Jacket 



PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/1gUV2R6

Burda sizes 34/36, 38/40, 42/44 on page 49 Finished back length: 35" (88 cm)

Materials Sweater knit, 54" (137 cm) wide: size 34/36: 31 ⁄ 8 yds (2.8 m); sizes 38/40 and 42/44: 31 ⁄ 4 yds (2.9 m) Interfacing Notions: Fusible bias stay tape Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 21-27 from pattern sheet. Cut out all paper pieces.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following

Stitch shoulder seams on jacket, on interfaced band, and on un-interfaced band. Press seams open. Stitch sleeve band pieces to sleeves (seam number 4). Neaten seam allowances together and press toward bands. Stitch sleeve bands to armhole edges. Press seam allowances toward bands. 

Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances toward back. 

Wrong sides together, fold band in half lengthwise and press. Stitch hem band edges together to lower edge of fronts and back, stretching slightly to match. Press seam allowances up. 

Stitch interfaced outer band to hem band, fronts, and back. Match seam mark on band to hem band attachment seam. Press allowances of hem band toward band. Above hem band, press seam allowances open, tapering allowance of front as you press. With right sides together, lay inside band on attached band. Stitch along front and neck edges. Stitch across bottom band ends. Trim seam allowances. Turn band right-side out. Lay inside band edge flat over attachment seam and baste in place. 

⁄ 8"

(1 cm) from folded edge. Turn rightside out. Cut into 2 equal lengths. Pin belt carriers to jacket as marked, turn in ends, and sew in place. 3

Fold tie belt lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch edges together, leaving an together. opening for turning. Turn right-side out. Sew opening closed. 

112082014-US Dress  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT AT:: http://bit.ly/1tqTfoG

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 53 Finished length from waist: 32 3 ⁄ 4" (83 cm)

Materials Rayon challis, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 21 ⁄ 2 yds (2.2 m); sizes 38, 40, 42, 44: 23 ⁄ 4 yds (2.5 m) Interfacing Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; elastic, 3 ⁄ 4" (1 cm) wide: size 36: 36: 1 ⁄ 2 yd (.4 m); sizes 38, 5 40 ,42, 44: ⁄ 8 yd (.5 m); 3 small buttons Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.

Preparation Trace pieces 1-8 from pattern sheet. Tape pieces 1 and 1A together as marked. Cut out all paper pieces.


















5 flounce, cut 2 6 sleeve, cut 2 7 front facing, cut 1 on fold 8 back facing, cut 1 on fold a) bias strip for 3 loops: 6" (15 cm) long, and 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) wide, including seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout.

Construction Stitch center seams on upper and lower back pieces. Press seam allowances open. 

On front and upper back pieces, cut along center of upper darts to 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) before point. Gather lower dart edges between asterisks. Stitch darts. Trim dart seam allowances to 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press up. 

Stitch shoulder seams on dress bodice and facing. Press seams open. 

With right sides together, fold bias strip for loops lengthwise. Stitch 1 ⁄ 8" (3 mm) from folded edge. Turn right-side out. Do not press fabric tube flat. Cut fabric tube into 3 equal lengths and form loops. 

Front slit and neck edge: With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge over marked center front slit. From wrong side, stitch closely around marked slit, on right side of slit leaving seam open between neck edge and seam mark. Stitch across bottom of slit, then continue stitching along marked neck edge. Slash slit between stitching lines and clip diagonally into bottom corners. On neck edge, trim seam allowances, trimming diagonally across corners. On right slit edge, lay loop between front and facing. Slide ends of loop through opening and pin to slit edge; loop size must match

Gather lower edge of front and upper back between asterisks. Stitch horizontal section seam on each side stitching from center back toward the front, then continue stitching to stitch small darts in front. Press seam allowances down and stitch as marked to form elastic casings. Cut elastic into 2 equal pieces. Insert elastic into casings and stitch ends in place, for a finished length of: size 36: 7 1 ⁄ 8" (18 cm); size 38: 7 1 ⁄ 2" (19 cm); size 40: 8" (20 cm); size 42: 8 3 ⁄ 8" (21 cm); size 44: 8 3 ⁄ 4" (22 cm). 

Finish hem edge: Press hem allowance to wrong side. From fabric right side, stitch along folded edge with a short, closely spaced zigzag. On inside, carefully trim hem allowance close to stitching. 

Blue pattern line, sheets D1-D2 Pattern pieces 1 and 2 Size 36 3333 Size 38 44 4444 44 Size 40 55 Size 42 6666 Size 44 77 77

Sleeve with sleeve vents: Baste loops to front sleeve vent edges as marked. Turn sleeve hem allowances to outside and stitch to vent edges, exactly to marked end of vent. Turn hem allowance upper edge back and pin. Stitch sleeve seam from upper edge to slit mark. Turn hem allowance to inside, press, and hand-stitch in place. 



Set in sleeves, gathering sleeve caps.



113082014-US

Top 

Cutting layout Knit lace, 60" (152.5 cm) wide Fold


Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 48 Finished back length: 24" (60 cm) Sleeves: 15 ⁄ 8" (4 cm) longer than normal

Selvedge




















Construction Note: On stretch fabrics, stitch seams with a special stretch stitch, narrow zigzag or with a serger.. Stitch hem allowances with a serger twin machine needle to keep them flexible.  Stitch sleeves to front and back (seam number 1). Trim seam allowances to 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press toward sleeves. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press seam allowances toward back. 

Neck edge: Stitch bias strips together to form one long strip. With wrong sides together,, fold and press bias strip together lengthwise. Unfold bias strip again. Stitch ends together to a circumference of: size 36: 233 ⁄ 4" (60 cm); size 38: 24" (61 cm); size 40: 241 ⁄ 2" (62 cm); size 42: 24 3 ⁄ 4" (63 cm); size 44: 25 1 ⁄ 4" (64 cm). Fold strip again. Pin folded bias strip to neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch along marked seamline. Trim seam allowances. Turn bias strip to inside. Topstitch 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from neck edge. 

Press hem allowances on top and sleeves to inside. From right side, use twin needle to stitch 1 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) from lower 

Buttonholes on piece 1 are marked for size 34/36. For sizes 38/40 and 42/44, mark top buttonhole same distance from neck edge as for size 34/36. Bottom buttonhole is same for all sizes. Space other buttonholes evenly between.

Seam and hem allowances Seams and edges: 5 ⁄ 8" (1.5 cm); sleeve vent edges: 11 ⁄ 4" (3 cm); hem: 5 ⁄ 8" (1.5 cm); no seam allowance on vertical edge of front self-facing

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Challis: 1 front, cut 2 2 back, cut 1 on fold 3 yoke, cut 2 4 sleeve front, cut 2 5 sleeve back, cut 2 6 collar, cut 2 on fold 7 collar stand, cut 2 on fold a) 2 cuffs: size 34/36: 11" (27.5 cm); size 38/40, 42/44: 11 1 ⁄ 4" (29.5 cm) long, and 43 ⁄ 4" (12 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing:

ending in front, exactly at seamline on attachment edge. Turn collar stand rightside out. Stitch outer collar stand piece to blouse neck edge. Press seam allowances toward collar stand. Turn in inside colla r stand piece and baste to attachment seam. Topstitch collar stand clos e to all edges. e dges. Sleeves: Stitch back sleeve seams above slit mark. Press seam and vent allowances toward sleeve fronts. At back vent underlap edges, press seam allowances to inside. At front vent edges and back underlap edges, turn seam allowance edges under to 5 ⁄ 8" (1.5 cm) wide and stitch. Stitch across top of vent, catching underlap. Fold pleat in lower edge of each sleeve and baste. 

Stitch sleeves to armhole edges. Neaten edges together and press toward sleeves. 

Stitch side seams and lower sleeve seams as continuous seams. Trim seam allowances, neaten e dges together, and press toward back. 

Cuffs: Stitch each cuff to lower sleeve edge. Press seam allowances of attachment seam and of other long cuff edge toward cuff. With right sides together,, fold cuff lengthwise. Stitch across together ends. Turn right-side out. Baste inside edge 




















Blue pattern line, sheets A1-A2 Pattern pieces 21 and 22 Size 34 Size 36 == === = Size 38 CC CCC C Size 40 67 67 Size 42 A A A A A

E E E E E

Cutting

116-

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Rayon challis: 21 front, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout) 22 back, cut as 1 bias piece (see layout) a) 2 bias-cut straps: size 34: 14 1 ⁄ 2" (37 cm); size 36: 15" (38 cm); size 38: 15 1 ⁄ 2" (39 cm); size 40: 15 3 ⁄ 4" (40 cm); size 42: 161 ⁄ 4" (41 cm) long, and 1 5 ⁄ 8" (4 cm) wide, including seam allowances b) bias strip for neck edge: size 34: 37 3 ⁄ 4" (96 cm); size 36: 39 1 ⁄ 2" (100 cm); size 38: 403 ⁄ 4" (103 cm); size 40: 41 3 ⁄ 4" (106 cm); size 42: 431 ⁄ 2" (110 cm) long, and 1 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances

082014-US Coat 

Construction On front piece, cut along each dart center to 1 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) before point. Lay pleats in direction of arrows and baste to dart edges. Stitch darts. Trim dart allowances to 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) wide, neaten edges together, and press toward center center.. 

Stitch side seams as French seams: Lay fabric pieces wrong sides together together.. Stitch seam allowances together 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from edge. Press seam allowances open. Lay pieces right sides together with the seam 


Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 28 Finished back length: 41 1 ⁄ 2" (105 cm) Sleeves: 4" (10 cm) shorter than normal

Materials Brushed wool fabric, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38, 40, 42: 3 3 ⁄ 8 yds (3 m); size 44: 35 ⁄ 8 yds (3.3 m) Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 36, 38: 21 ⁄ 8 yds (1.9 cm); sizes 40, 42: 2 1 ⁄ 4 yds (2.05 m); size 44: 23 ⁄ 8 yds (2.1 m) Interfacing Notions: 2 large sew-on snap fasteners Read Burda Instructions (on page 64) for general sewing guidelines and introductory information.




















With right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together,, lay lining in coat, pulling linings together into sleeves. Turn edges of sleeve linings under and hand-stitch to hem allowance. Lay extra length of lining down and press. Sew facings over coat hem. 

Cutting layouts Brushed wool, 54" (137 cm) wide Sizes 36 – 42 Fold

Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew upper snap halves to right front facing as marked, taking even stitches and exiting needle on right fabric side. Lay coat closed, matching center fronts. Mark positions of lower snap halves on left front. Sew lower snap halves in place as marked. 

Selvedges

Nap

Fold fabric as shown in the cutting layout— right sides together on a double layer; right side up up on a single layer layer.. Cut right and left fronts as opposites. Note direction of nap.

Size 44 Fold

Selvedges

Nap

116A082014-US Jacket  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT AT:: http://bit.ly/1phDONj

Preparation Trace pieces 21-24 from pattern sheet. Trace pocket piece from piece 21 as a

ending exactly at sleeve and side seamlines.

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44




















Snap fasteners marked on piece 1 (front facing) are for size 36. For the other sizes, move markings according to size lines.

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Matelassé: 1 front, cut 2 1 front facing, cut 2 1 pocket, cut 2 2 back, cut 1 on fold 3 sleeve, cut 2 4 neck band, cut 4 5 back facing, cut 1 on fold a) tie belt, a total of: size 36: 63" (160 cm); size 38: 65" (165 cm); size 40: 67" (170 cm); size 42: 69" (175 cm); size 44: 71" (180 cm) long, and 3" (7 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 1 front, cut 2, minus width of facing 1 pocket, cut 2 2 back, cut 1, minus width of facing and with 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) center back ease pleat 3 sleeve, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.

to armhole edges, from cor ner to corner. Press seam allowances open. Stitch side seams and sleeve seams as continuous seams, leaving pocket openings free. Along curves, clip seam allowances several times. Press seam allowances open. 

In-seam pockets: With right sides together, pin pockets to pocket opening together, seam allowance edges – pocket lining in front and matelassé pockets in back. Stitch pockets in place, directly along marked seamlines. Press pockets forward and stitch edges together together.. 

At hem edge, unfold facings. Press hem allowance to inside and then turn down again. Press sleeve hem allowances to inside and hand-stitch in place. 

On back lining, baste ease pleat at top and bottom, each 2" (5 cm) long, and baste between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch lining seams. 

Sew lining in place; hem jacket: Right sides together, stitch lining to inside facing edge. With wrong sides together, lay lining inside jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Turn lining edge under along hem edge. Press folded edge lightly, push up in a shallow curve, and pin to hem allowance. Hand-stitch facings and lining in place. Lay 

117082014-US Jacket  PATTERN AVAILABLE ON INSERT SHEET

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 26 Finished back length: 20 1 ⁄ 2" (52 cm) Sleeves: 31 ⁄ 2" (9 cm) longer than normal

Materials Note: Both sides of the ponte knit show. Ponte knit, 60" (152.5 cm): 13 ⁄ 8 yds (1.2 m) for all sizes Stretch nappa leather for sleeves and bands. To make the jacket, you will need 2 leather skins with a total of 8 sq. ft. (1 sq. ft. = 30 × 30 cm). Alternative: Stretch imitation leather, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1 yd (.9 m) for all sizes Stretch lining, 54" (137 cm) wide, for the sleeves: 7 ⁄ 8 yd (.8 m) for all sizes Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; pre-folded satin bias tape, 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) wide: size 34: 1 yd (.9 m); sizes 36, 38: 1 1 ⁄ 8 yd (1 m); sizes 40, 42: 11 ⁄ 4 yds (1.1 m); 1 two-way separating zipper, sizes 34, 36, 38, 40: 20" (50 cm), size 44: 22" (55 cm) long; 2 large




















Blue pattern line, sheets C1-C2 Pattern pieces 1 to 10 Size 34 3333 Size 36 44 4444 44 Size 38 55 Size 40 6666 Size 42 77 77

Ponte knit: 1 center front with collar, cut 2 2 side front, cut 2 3 center back, cut 1 on fold 4 side back, cut 2 5 center front peplum, cut 4 6 side front peplum, cut 4 7 center back peplum, cut 2 on fold 8 side back peplum, cut 4 Stretch nappa leather: 9 upper sleeve, cut 2 10 under sleeve, cut 2 a) 4 front bands: size 34: 26 3 ⁄ 4" (68 cm); size 36: 27" (68.5 cm); size 38: 27 1 ⁄ 2" (69.5 cm); size 40: 27 3 ⁄ 4" (70 cm); size 42: 28" (71 cm) long, and 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) wide b) 2 collar bands: size 34: 32" (81 cm); size 36: 32 5 ⁄ 8" (82.5 cm); size 38: 33" (84 cm); size 40: 33 1 ⁄ 2" (85 cm); size 42: 34 1 ⁄ 8" (86.5 cm) long, and 3 ⁄ 4" (2 cm) wide c) collar attachment band: size 34: 12 1 ⁄ 4" (31 cm); sizes 36, 38: 12 3 ⁄ 4" (32 cm); size 40: 13" (33 cm); size 42: 13 1 ⁄ 2" (34 cm) long, and 5 ⁄ 8" (1.5 cm) wide Stretch lining: 9 upper sleeve, cut 2 10 under sleeve, cut 2 Fusible bias stay tape: Fuse to wrong side of back neck edge,

seam allowance and baste. From garment right side, stitch 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) from seam. Stitch collar to back neck edge. Lay leather band over collar attachment seam allowances, leaving ends of band extending evenly. Stitch leather band to seam allowances only, close to the seam. Trim seam allowances under band. Lay leather band and seam allowances down. Stitch band ends in place, along lines of shoulder seams, and trim extending ends. Stitch lower band edge in place. 

On inside peplum, stitch section seams and side seams. With right sides together, pin inside peplum to attached peplum. Stitch lower edges together, beginning and ending seam at marked front edge. Trim seam allowances. Turn inside peplum down and understitch close to seam. Turn inside peplum to inside and press edge. Lay inside edge flat over attachment seam. From jacket right right side, stitch along along attachment attachment seam, interrupting stitching at zipper on left section seam. Clip seam allowance of left front next to seam allowance edge and directly at front section seam, close to horizontal seam. Bind seam allowances of horizontal seam together, with bias tape. 

On front edges of peplum and fronts, trim away seam allowances, then continue 
























Set in sleeves.

On left front band, sew lower snap halves in place, placing one snap level with peplum attachment seam and one snap 103 ⁄ 4" (27 cm) above. Close zipper. Sew upper snap halves to inside of peplum attachment seam and to seam allowance of section seam. 

118082014-US Skirt  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT:

Matelassé: 1 front skirt, cut 1 on fold 2 back skirt, cut 2 a) waistband: size 34: 261 ⁄ 2" (67 cm); size 36: 28" (71 cm); size 38: 29 3 ⁄ 4" (75 cm); size 40: 311 ⁄ 4" (79 cm); size 42: 323 ⁄ 4" (83 cm); size 44: 341 ⁄ 4" (87 cm) long, and 2 1 ⁄ 2" (6 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Lining: 1 front skirt, cut 1 on fold 2 back skirt, cut 2 Interfacing: Cut from shaded area on cutting layout.

Construction Stitch front and back darts. Press darts toward centers. 

119082014-US Fur collar  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT AT:: http://bit.ly/1ni95CD

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42 on page 27

Materials Fake fur with long pile, 54" (137 cm) wide: 1 ⁄ 2 yd (.35 m) Ponte knit, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: 1 ⁄ 2 yd (.35 m). Fine jersey, 60" (152 cm) wide, for lining: 1 ⁄ yd (.35 m)




















119A-

Construction

082014-US



Top  PATTERN AVAILABLE AS A DOWNLOAD AT: http://bit.ly/Rfv12g

Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 42 Finished length from waist: 10" (25 cm) Sleeves: 21 ⁄ 2" (6 cm) longer than normal

Materials Stretch jersey, 60" (152.5 cm) wide: size 36: 17 ⁄ 8 yds (1.7 m); sizes 38, 40: 2 yds (1.8 cm); sizes 42, 44: 21 ⁄ 8 yds (1.9 m) Notions: Elastic, 3 ⁄ ⁄ " " (1 cm) wide: sizes 36,

Lay pleats in upper front in direction of arrows and baste. With wrong sides together, fold and press facing strip for back neck edge lengthwise. Pin folded facing strip to back neck edge so that folded edge of strip lies on garment piece, 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) past seamline. Stitch facing strip in place. Trim seam allowances. Turn facing strip to inside and press edge. Topstitch 1 ⁄ 4" (6mm) from neck edge. 

With right sides together together,, baste back shoulder edges to front shoulder edges. Turn front self-facing onto back at foldline, and pin to shoulder edges. Stitch shoulder seams. Pull back out of front. Lay facing on front. Press shoulder seams, but do not press 

Red pattern line, sheets D1-D2 Pattern pieces 21, 22 and 24 Size 34 Size 36 == === = Size 38 CC CCC C Size 40 67 67 Size 42 A A A A A




















120.1-

Cutting layout

082014-US Skirt 

Silk organza, 45" (114.5 cm) wide Selvedges


Fold

Selvedges

d l o F

Selvedges

Fold the fabric as shown in the cutting layout, right sides together.

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 57 Finished length: 15 3 ⁄ 4" (40 cm) Upper skirt edge sits at natural waistline.

Materials Sequin fabric, 54" (137) wide: 1 yd (.85 m) for all sizes 5 8 yd (.5 m) for Lining, 54" (137 cm) wide: ⁄ all sizes Notions: Fusible bias stay tape; 1 invisible




















Stitch lining seams, leaving walking slits 43 ⁄ 4"(12 cm) long in side seams and leaving slit for zipper opening in back. 

Face upper skirt edge: With right sides together,, pull lining over skirt and pin to together upper skirt edge. At zipper opening, turn lining edge under 3 ⁄ 16" (5 mm) before opening edge and pin to upper edge. Turn skirt seam allowances at opening edges to outside and pin to upper skirt edge, over lining. Stitch along upper skirt edge. Turn seam allowances on opening edges to inside. Turn lining up and understitch as far as possible close to seam. Turn lining to inside and sew to zipper tapes. 

Green pattern line, sheet C1 Pattern pieces 1 to 4 Size 34 2 2 Size 36 3333 Size 38 Size 40 55 Size 42 666 Size 44 77 77 2

2

4444

6

Press hem allowance to inside and hand-stitch in place. Hem lining 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) shorter than skirt. Narrowly turn under 

Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Crêpe: 21 front trouser, cut 2 22 back trouser, cut 2 23 back yoke, cut 2 24 pocket, cut 4 a) right waistband, size 72: 18 1 ⁄ 2" (47 cm); size 76: 191 ⁄ 2" (49.5 cm); size 80: 20 1 ⁄ 2" (52 cm); size 84: 21 1 ⁄ 4" (54 cm); size 88: 223 ⁄ 8" (56.5 cm) long; left waistband, size 72: 191 ⁄ 4" (49 cm); size 76: 20 3 ⁄ 8" (51.5 cm); size 80: 21 1 ⁄ 4" (54 cm); size 84: 221 ⁄ 4" (56 cm); size 88: 23 1 ⁄ 8" (58.5 cm) long, and each 3 1 ⁄ 4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances




















together along upper edge. Fold right front on foldline, wrong side in. Baste both fabric layers together on upper edge. Waistband: Stitch waistband ends together.. Stitch waistband to upper trouser together edge, matching seam to center back. Press seam allowances of attachment seam and other long waistband edge toward waistband. With right sides together, fold waistband lengthwise. Stitch across ends. Turn waistband right-side out. Baste inside edge in place. From right side of trousers, stitch along waistband attachment seam, catching inner edge. Cover snap fastener halves with lining fabric (see instructions on page 97). Sew one upper snap half to inside of right waistband end. Sew bottom snap half to left waistband end. Space each 5 ⁄ 8" 

Poplin: 21 front, cut 1 22 back, cut 1 on fold 23 sleeve front, cut 2 24 sleeve back, cut 2 25 standing collar, cut 2 on fold a) tie belt: size 34/36: 60" (150 cm); size 38/40: 64" (160 cm); size 42/44: 68" (170 cm), and 11 ⁄ 2" (4 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances b) 2 cuffs: size 34/36: 9 1 ⁄ 8" (23 cm); size 38/40: 91 ⁄ 2" (24 cm); size 42/44: 10" (25 cm), including 1 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) for underlap, and 1 3 ⁄ 4" (8 cm) wide, excluding seam allowances Interfacing: Cut from shaded areas on cutting layout. Fuse interfacing to wrong side of outer

edge to slit mark. Press seam allowances open. Neaten seam allowance edges from upper edges to end of seams. Press slit allowances on back and remaining allowances on front pieces to inside, as far as top of slit, turn edges under to a width of 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm), and edgestitch in place. Stitch horizontally across top of slit. Lower sleeve seams: With right sides together, lay sleeve front pieces on sleeve back pieces. Stitch lower sleeve seams (seam number 2). Press seam allowances open and neaten edges. 

Set in sleeves. Trim seam allowances to ⁄ 4" (6 mm), neaten edges together together,, and press toward sleeve, from upper edge to beginning of underarm curve.  1






















Shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams, slit: With right sides together, lay front on back, folding sleeves lengthwise. Stitch shoulder seams and upper sleeve seams as continuous seams, up to slit mark. Press seam allowances open. 

122A-

Materials

082014-US Dress 

Stretch satin, 54" (137 cm) wide: sizes 34, 36, 38: 1 1 ⁄ 8 yd (1 m); sizes 40, 42: 1 1 ⁄ 2 yds (1.25 m) Lining for bodice, 54" (137 cm) wide, cut on bias: 5 ⁄ yd (.5 m) for all sizes





















Construction

123A-

Stitch side fronts to center front. Stitch side backs to center back. Press seams open.

082014-US Dress 

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Stitch center back skirt seam, leaving


for the waist edge and hem line (R1). Cut out all paper pieces.




















Cutting Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown and pin in place. Cut the following numbered pieces: Chiffon: 21 upper front, cut 2

With right sides together, fold tie bands lengthwise. Stitch each along long edge and across one end. Trim seam allowances. Turn tie bands right-side out and press. Baste tie bands to side seam edges of back pieces, below seam marks. 

edge to zipper opening. Turn top ends of zipper tapes under and sew to neck edge. Finish dress and lining hem edges separately with closely spaced zigzag: Press hem allowance to wrong side. From right side, stitch along folded edge with closely 




















9 cuff, cut 4 a) 2 sleeve vent bias binding strips: 8" (20 cm) long, and 1 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm) wide, including seam allowances Lining: 1 front, cut 1 on fold

to 1 ⁄ 4" (6 mm) wide, turn edge under and sew to attachment seam. On inside top of vent, stitch diagonally across binding. On each front vent edge, turn binding to inside and baste to lower sleeve edge. 

Lay sleeve pleats in direction of arrows




















Burda sizes 36, 38, 40, 42, 44 on page 60 Finished length from waist: 26 3 ⁄ 4" (68 cm) Sleeves: 3" (7 cm) longer than normal

Seam and hem allowances

Materials

Lay out pattern pieces on fabric as shown

Seams and edges: ⁄ 8" (1.5 cm); hem: 1 ⁄ 4" (3 cm); sleeve hems: 2" (5 cm) 5

1

Cutting

edges. Lay shoulder pleats in direction of arrows and baste, then baste seam allowance on back neck edge to inside. Topstitch 3 ⁄ 8" (1 cm) from neck edge with twin needle catching pleats. In front, stitch yoke to upper front, from each seam



















































































































































































































































Burda's Instruction a-D

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