BODY CARE Merupakan sediaan kosmetika yang ditujukan untuk perawatan badan. Biasanya yang dimasukkan dalam kategori ini antara lain adalah - Pembersih badan badan (body wash, wash, soap, shower shower gel, lulur, lulur, body scrub, dll - Pelembab bdan (body lotion, body cream, body gel, dll) - Pewangi Pewangi (body cologne, body body spray, spray, dll ) - Mask Masker er - Beda edak - Deodoran Deodorant/an t/antipe tiperspi rspirant rant - dll Berdasar Berdasarkan kan type type sediaann sediaannya, ya, dibagi dibagi atas - Emulsi Emulsi (body (body lotion, lotion, body cream) cream) - Gel (body (body gel, gel, cologn cologne e gel) - Larutan Larutan (body (body cologne, cologne, body wash) wash) - Powder Powder (body talk, talk, antibody odour, odour, masker - Emul Emulsi si-s -sus uspe pens nsii (Lul (Lulur ur koco kocok) k) - Aerosol Aerosol (body (body spray) spray)
BODY LOTION Merupakan sediaan kosmetik berbentuk emulsi yang ditujukan untuk perawatan kulit tubuh (lengan dan kaki). Biasanya body lotion lebih ditujukan untuk menjaga kelembaban kulit dan mencegah dari sengatan matahari (SPF). Selain itu body lotion juga harus mempunyai nilai estetika misalnya memberikan memberikan aroma yang menyenangkan. Seiring dengan kebutuhan pasar maka sekarang body lotion juga ditujukan untuk whitening
BODY LOTION Seperti halnya pelembab pada wajah, body lotion merupakan pelembab pada badan. Biasanya diaplikasikan pada tangan dan kaki. Rata-rata body lotion mempunyai viskositas yang tidak begitu tinggi, sediaan masih mengalir jika dituangkan Syarat-syarat umum -Mempunyai daya melembabkan yang bagus -Meninggalkan kesan lembut dikulit -Tidak menyebabkan iriitasi pada kulit atau aman digunakan Syarat-syarat estetika -Tidak memberikan kesan lengket -Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik -Spreading bagus saat diaplikasi Syarat formulasi -Stabil dalam penyimpanan dan saat dijual -Sebaiknya mempunyai pH sekitar 4-7
BODY LOTION Komposisi Utama:
Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier)
Tambahan:
Viscosity modifier (zat pengatur kekentalan) Pengawet Pewarna Perfume
Zat aktif
BODY LOTION Biasanya untuk body lotion mempunyai tipe emulsi O/W jadi: 1. Phase luar adalah air (jumlah terbanyak). Biasanya kedalam phase air ini ditambahkan pengental seperti turunan selulosa (carbopol, dll) dan humectant seperti gliserin atau propilen glikol. Jika menggunakan pengawet yang larut dalam air maka pengawet ini ditambahkan ke phase air 2. Phase dalam adalah minyak (biasanya menggunakan minyak nabati seperti minyak zaitun, minyak kedelai, dll). Untuk memberikan sensasi yang enak pada saat diaplikasi biasanya ditambahakan silikon seperti dimetichone atau cyclometicone. 3. Emulsifier harus dipilih yang cocok dengan tujuan penggunaan body lotion, milsalnya jika body lotion mengandung tingkat keasaman yang ditinggi maka pilihnya emulsifier yang tahan asam. Sama seperti surfactant maka emulsifier juga dibagi atas beberapa tipe
TIPE EMULSIFIER Surfactant chemical class
Typical generic example
Anionic Carboxylic acid Carboxylic acid ester S ulfate acid ester Amino acid amides
Soaps Lactylate, PEG alkyl carboxylate Alkyl sulfate, S ulfated monoglyceride Sarcosinate. Acylated peptides
Cationic Amines Quaternaries
PEG alkyl amine Tetraalkyl ammonium salts
Amphoteric Phospate Amine derivative
Phospolipid N-alkyl amino acids
Nonionic Alcohol Ether Ester Polymers
Fatty alcohol Alkoxylated fatty alcohol, PEG-phenol ethers Acyl sorbitant, PEG-derivative, Acyl glyceride PEG block polymers, PEG-silicone derivative
Emulsifier Relation between HLB range and Surfactant applications HLB Range
Use
0-3
Anti foaming
4-6
W/O emulsifying agent
7-9
Wetting agent
8-18
O/W emulsifying agent
13-15
Detergent
10-18
Solubilizing agent
Sensorial performances
Dimethicone 6
Very high MW hydr. Polydecene mineral oil
5,9 5 4,7
Medium-high MW hydr. Polydecene 2 Octyl dodecanol
4 3,7 3,5
Medium MW hydr. Polydecene IPM
3 2,5
0
10
Heaviness
Low MW hydr. Polydecene Isohexadecane
castor oil
9
sweet almond oil
5
High MW nexbase2008FG hydr. polydecene
4,4 4
olive oil
3,5
medium MW panalaneL14E hydr. polydecene
3,1 2 1,6
medium MW nexbase2006FG
hydr. polydecene
nexbase2004FGMineral oil vaseline oil Low MW nexbase2002CG
1
0
10
greasy feel
hydr. polydecene
arlamol HD isohexadecane
POLARITY BEBERAPA OIL Common oil (CTFA name)
Polarity index
Non Polar
Isoparafin (C12-C14 grade)
Common oil (CTFA name)
Polarity index
Polar
53
Isopropyl stearate
21.9
Squalene
46.2
Caprylic/Capric triglyceride
21.3
Isohexadecane
43.8
Isopropyl isostearate
21.2
Mineral Oil
43.7
Jojoba oil
20.8
Cyclomethicone
20.6
Peanut oil
20.5
Polar
Cetostearyl octanoate (Purcellin Oil)
28.6
Almond oil
20.3
Dimetichone
26.6
Sunflower seed oil
19.3
Isopropyl palmitate
25.2
Decyl oleate
18.7
Octyl dodecanol
24.8
Avocado Oil
18.3
Dioctyladipate
24.5
Olive oil
16.9
Isopropyl myristate
24.2
Castor oil
13.7
Octyl Palmitate
23.1
Calendula oil
11.1
Hexamethyl disiloxane
22.7
Wheat germ oil
8.3
CONTOH FORMULA BODY LOTION Ingredients OIL PHASE Polar/Non-polar type Fatty alcohol Fatty acids Emulsifier Oil soluble active Texture modifier Antioxidant Perfume WATER PHASE Humectant Viscosity stabiliser Water soluble active
Chemical name
Functions
Mineral oil, Isopropyl Merystate, olive oil Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid
total 10% 0.5-1 0-3
PEG-100 sterate and glycerol stearate
2-5
Emulsifier
qs 1-5 qs qs
Active anti lengket, silky feel
2-5 0.1-0.3
menjaga kelembaban
qs to 100
Active
Vitamine, vegatable extract, UV-Filter, dll Dimethicone Vitamin E atau BHT
Gliserin, PG Carbopol Vitamine, plant extract, dll
Water Preservative
%
Oil Base Viscosity modifier Viscosity modifier
SOAP Merupakan sediaan kosmetika yang digunakan untuk membersihkan badan dari pengotor. Secara umum soap dibagi atas 1.Conventional Soap (soap) 2.Soap based surfactan Hal dasar yang membedakan kedua sabun diatas adalah sumber sabunnya. Conventional soap didapatkan dari reaksi penyabunan antara NaOH atau KOH dengan fatty alcohol/fatty acid atau vegatable oil seperti coconut, palm, castor, olive,dll. Sabun yang dihasilkan dengan cara ini mempunyai keuntungan yakni derajat busanya yang banyak tapi mempunyai tingkat iritasi yang cukup tinggi. Soap based surfactant adalah sabun yang dibuat berdasarkan penggunaan surfactant sebagai base sabunnya. Sabunnya mempunyai busa yang kurang banyak dibandingkan soap base tapi tingkat iritasinya lebih rendah
Soap based surfactant Kebanyakan berbentuk cairan atau larutan kental bening atau translucence. Biasanya dikenal sebagai body shower, body wash atau sabun cair Syarat-syarat umum -Mempunyai daya bersih yang bagus -Tidak menyebabkan kulit jadi kering -Tidak menyebabkan iriitasi pada kulit atau aman digunakan Syarat-syarat estetika - Berbusa banyak -Aroma dan warna yang sesuai dan menarik -Enak saat digunakan Syarat formulasi -Stabil dalam penyimpanan dan saat dijual -Sebaiknya mempunyai pH 7 atau sedikit basa
Soap based surfactant Umunya sediaannya berbentuk larutan seperti halnya shampo
Ingredients utama 1.Surfactant 2.Viscosity modifier Ingredients tambahan 1.Pewarna 2.Pewangi 3.Pengawet 4.dll Ingredients active 1. Zat yang bersifat sebagai antiseptik 2. Deodorant 3.dll
Surfactant Chemistry of surfactants From the molecular structural point of view, they are divided into 2 groups
1. Compunds having one or more hydrophobic and hydrophilic groups with a general molecular weight several hundreds. Hydrophobic groups containg 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Typical hydrophilic groups are Anionic, Cationic, Amphoteric, Nonionic 2. Oligomers having a molecular weight of thousands to tens of thousands which are usually prepared by polymerization of several to hundreds of monomer units.
Surfactant Anionic All members or this class of surfactant carry negative charge on the hydrophilic group. As a group, anionics are not compatible with cationic amphiphiles. Carboxylate –COONa+ Sulfate -OSO3-Na+ Phosphonate -PO32-2Na+ Sulfonate -SO3-Na+ Taurate Isethionate Alkylaryl Sulfonate Olefin Sulfonate Sulfosuccinate Acylated Amino Acids and Peptides Sarcosinate • • • •
•
Surfactant Cationic Hydrophilic head carries a possitive charge. This group of surfactants includes a variety of amines since neutralization of the amino group with an acid yield a positively charge ampholyte
Amine (Alkylamine) Quaternary ammonium compund Alkoxylated amines Alkylimidazolines Pyridinium salt Sulfonium salt
• •
-CNH3+ -N+(CH3)3
• • • •
-S+(CH3)2Cl-
Surfactant Amphoteric In this group there are two charges possitive and negative in a molecule surfactant.
Amino acid -NHC2H4COOH Betaine -N(CH3)2C2H4SO3 Aminosulfate-NHC2H4OSO3 Sulfobetaine -N(CH3)2C2H4SO3
• • • •
Surfactant Nonionic Amphiphiles that possess no charges at pH normally encoutered in cosmetics. Their water solubility depends on the presence of polar head groups, primarily hydroxyl or ether. Alcohols Alkanolamides Amine Oxide Esters Glycerides Ethoxylated Glycerides Polygluceryl esters Carbohydrate esters Ethoxylated carboxylyx acids Phosphoric acid triester • • • •
Surfactant Nonionic
Ethers Ethoxylated alcohol Ethoxylated (Propoxylated) polysiloxanes Ethoxylated polypropylene oxide ether Alkyl glycoside
2. Viscosity modifier Digunakan untuk memberikan kekentalan pada sediaan sabun cair -Golongan Cellulose (Metolose, HPMC,) digunakan sekitar 0.2 – 1% -Golongan Polimer (Acrylate copolimer, Carbopol 2020) digunakan sekitar 0.2 – 1% - Golongan surfactant modified (Cocomide DEA, Comparland KDT) digunakan sekitar 1-3 % - Garam (NaCl) digunakan sekitar 0.2 – 3%
Body wash No
Ingredient name
Trade name
1 Water
Water
2 Methylcellulose
Metochel
% of usage
function
ad 100 Base 1
Thickener
3 Sodium laureth Sulphate (70%) Texapon N70
25
4 Coco betaine
5
Main Surfactant Co surfactant, foam booster
Dehyton HB
5 Cocamide DEA
Comparland KDT
4
Co surfactant, viscosity modifier
6 Na NaCl
NaCl
1
Viscosity modifier
7 Preservative
qs
8 Coloring agent
qs
9 pf
qs
BODY COLOGNE
Merupakan sediaan yang ditujukan untuk memberikan kesegaran dan keharuman pada tubuh/badan. Body cologne umumnya berbentuk cairan atau larutan jernih dan disemprotkan (body spray) atau dipercikkan (body splas splash) h) ketu ketubu buh. h. Selain mengandung perfum sebagai ingredient utama, body cologne kadang-kadang mengandung bahan aktif yang bersif rsifat at seb sebag agai ai an anttipe iperspi rspirran antt atau atau deodo odoran ant, t, pe pele lem mba bab b dll. ll.
BODY COLOGNE Syarat umum -Larutan jernih -Tidak menyebabkan iritasi pada kulit -Memberikan aroma yang enak Syarat estetika -Tidak memberikan kesan lengket - Aroma dan dan warna yang yang sesuai dan menarik menarik - Memberikan Memberikan kesan kesan segar segar pada pada kulit kulit Syarat formulasi - Stabil (tidak menjadi keruh selama penyimpanan penyimpanan dan penjualan) penjualan) - Sebai Sebaikn kny ya me memp mpun unya yaii pH pH 4-7 4-7
BODY COLOGNE TINJAUAN FORMULASI Karena body cologne merupakan larutan, maka formulasinya sangat sederhana dimana semua bahan yang dimasukkan kedalam pelarut harus terlarut sempurna. Bisa juga menambahkan solubiliser untuk meningkatkan kelarutan KOMPOSISI 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Pelarut (biasa air atau dicampur dengan alkohol) Humectan pH adjuster (asam atau basa), jika perlu Solubiliser Active Pengawet (jika diperlukan) Estetika warna, parfum
CONTOH FORMULASI BODY COLOGNE
Part A
B
Komposisi
Ingredient
%
Pelarut
Aquadem
ad 100
Humectant
PG
2
Aktive
Ekstrak anggur
1
Solubiliser
Tween 20
Pelarut
Alkohol
Fragrance
Pf
5
Pewarna
Zat Warna
qs
0.2 50
BODY SCRUB
Merupakan sediaan berbentuk cream kental yang umumnya dihasilkan dari proses saponifikasi dari fatty acid (biasanya asam stearat) dengan basa (TEA, NaOH, KOH) ditambah dengan butiranbutiran halus yang berfungsi sebagai scrub. Secara umum ada 2 fungsi yang harus dimiliki oleh body scrub 1. Daya bersih yang didapatkan dari base lulur sendiri atau dengan tambahan co-surfactant untuk meningkatkan daya bersih 2. Daya exfoliating yang didapatkan dari scrub yang digunakan. Umumnya ada 2 jenis scrub yakni alami (biji apricot, jagung, batu apung, dll) dan sintetis (PE, silica, dll). Daya exfoliating scrub ditentukan oleh ukuran scrub. Semakin kecil ukuran scrub maka semakin kurang terasa pada penggunaannya tapi semakin tinggi daya exfoliatingnya
BODY SCRUB Syarat umum - Daya bersih yang bagus - Daya exfoliating yang bagus - Tidak kasar - Tidak membuat kulit kering Syarat estetika - Spreading bagus - Pick up bagus - Aroma, warna, performance menarik
Syarat formulasi - Stabil (tidak pecah selama penyimpanan) - Sebaiknya mempunyai pH < 7
BODY SCRUB Komposisi Utama:
Phase dalam (Internal)/ Phase discontinuous/Dispersed phase Phase luar (External)/Phase Continuous Zat pengemulsi (emulsifier) atau saponifikasi system Bead (Scrub)
Tambahan:
Viscosity modifier (zat pengatur kekentalan) Pengawet Pewarna Perfume
Zat aktif
Ingredients OIL PHASE Polar/Non-polar type Fatty alcohol Fatty acids Emulsifier
Chemical name Mineral oil, Isopropyl Merystate, olive oil Cetyl alcohol Stearic acid PEG-100 sterate and glycerol stearate
%
<10% 0.5-1 5-15 2-5
WATER PHASE Humectant
Viscosity stabiliser NaOH/KOH/TEA Water Preservative PE/Natural bead
Gliserin, PG Carbopol
Functions
Oil Base Viscosity modifier Saponifikasi Base Emulsifier(if needed)
menjaga kelembaban
2-5 0.1-0.3 Sesuai fatty acid Saponifikasi base to 100 qs Qs (2-5%
Scrubbing agent
DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT
Deodorants are substances applied to the body mainly to reduce body odor which is caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration. Body odour develops when perspiration, which itself is odourless, is broken down by microorganisms. From the components of the perspiration, sebum and dead skin cells, Gram-positive organisms in particular form substances which smell unpleasant.
Gram-positive bacteria Micrococcus luteus Corynebacterium aquaticum Corynebacterium flavescens Corynebacterium callunae Corynebacterium nephredi
Antiperspirant • An antiperspirant, as defined by the Department of Health and Human Services in the final antiperspirant monograph published in 2003, reads as follows: “A drug product applied topically that reduces the production of perspiration (sweat) at that site”
• There has always been some confusion in the industry that consumers do not always relate to the basic difference between antiperspirant and deodorant products.
• Antiperspirants, because of their ability to reduce perspiration and thus diminish the medium that is a factor in the development of axillary odor, can also claim to be a deodorant.
• However, because a deodorant product only reduces the body odor and does not reduce perspiration it can only be labeled as a deodorant
Regulation antiperspirant • In the United States an antiperspirant is categorized as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug product and therefore subject to regulations by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
• In the European Common Market antiperspirants are considered to be cosmetic products and are therefore subject to the European Cosmetic Directive
• Antiperspirant products in Japan are regulated and classified as quasi-drugs. A quasi-drug is an article used only for certain purposes that are specifically designated by the MHW (Ministry of Health and Welfare)
DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT
Body odor is primarily generated in the area under the arms where there is a high concentration of sweat glands. While sweat from these glands is initially odorless, it contains natural oils, called lipids, that provide a growth medium for bacteria living on the skin. These bacteria interact with the lipids, converting them into compounds that have a characteristic sweaty odor. Isovaleric acid, for example, is one chemical compound that gives sweat its smell. Kelenjer keringat 1. Ekrin - Berukuran kecil terletak di dermis atas - Cairannya encer - Terdpat diseluruh tubuh (telapak tangan, kaki dan dahi) - Muara langsung kepermukaan kulit 2. Apokrin -Ukuran besar terletak didermis bawah -Cairan kental, mengandung air, elektrolit, asam laktat, glukosa -pH 4-6.8 -Terdapat diaksila, putting susu, daerah genital, saluran telinga luar -Didapat mikroorganisme----dekomposisi--- bau -Sekresi dipengaruhi suhu panas, stress emosional
DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT
DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT
3. Kelenjer sebasea -Terdapat diseluruh tubuh kecuali telapak tangan dan kaki -Bermuara pada folikel rambut -Mengandung trigliserida, asam lemak bebas, squalane, wax ester, kolesterol -Dipengaruhi hormon androgen -Usia pubertas ---berfungsi aktif There are two primary types of products used to control body odor. 1.Deodorants, reduce body odor by killing the odor-causing bacteria. These products do not affect the amount of perspiration the body produces. 2. Antiperspirants, inhibit the activity of sweat glands so less moisture is produced. In addition to avoiding unpleasant wetness, these products also decrease odor because there is less sweat for the bacteria to act upon.
DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT
Antiperspirant Aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, and aluminium-zirconium compounds, most notably Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly and Aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine Deodorants can be formulated with other, more persistent antimicrobials such as triclosan, or with metal chelant compounds that slow bacterial growth. Deodorants may contain perfume fragrances intended to mask the odor of perspiration. A popular alternative to modern commercial deodorants is ammonium alum, which is a common type of alum sold in crystal form Consumers want underarm products that meet their unique needs and lifestyles. 1.Form : roll-on, aerosol, pump spray, cream, gel, stick and wipes 2.Function : deodorant, antiperspirant, moisturization, non-staining, low cost and easy-to-make 3. Feel : soft and dry to rich and nourishing, non-tacky and non-irritating
DEODORANT DAN ANTIPERSPIRANT Formulation Stick
The bulk of the formulation consists of waxy or fatty materials that are gelled to form a solid stick. Common examples include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, hydrogenated castor oil, and glyceryl stearate. These waxy materials are blended with lubricating oils and emollients such as cyclomethicone, which is a volatile silicone compound. These silicones are liquids at room temperature, but they quickly evaporate and are used because they leave the skin feeling smooth and dry. In addition, talc, starches, or other powders may be added to control stick consistency and to give the product a dry feel and a smooth payoff.
Emulsion Ingredient Phase A 1. Cyclopentasiloxane & PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer 12 2. Cyclomethicone 8 3. Phenyl Trimethicone 2 4. Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone 2 5. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 1 Phase B 6. Deionized Water 36.45 7. Water and Tritucum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Extract and Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate 1 8. Camelia HS 0.3 9. Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract (and) Alcohol 1 10. Water and Aluminum Sesquichlorohydrate 30 Phase C 11. Triclosan 0.2 12. Dipropylene Glycol 5 Phase D 13. Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl p-Cresol 0.05 14. Fragrance 1 Procedure 1. In the main mixing vessel, add ingredients of phase A and mix. 2. In a separate vessel, combine phase B ingredients in order. 3. In a separate vessel, combine phase C ingredients and warm gently while stirring until clear. 4. Add phase C to phase B while mixing. 5. Begin rapid, turbulent mixing of phase A. Use a dual blade configuration. 6. Add phase B / C to phase A very slowly using a seperatory funnel while maintaining turbulent mixing of phase A. 7. After the addition is complete, mix for an additional 10 minutes.
Thickening Agents In Cosmetics
Principles involved in Thickening
• Stokes's law - is the basis of the fallingsphere viscometer , in which the fluid is stationary in a vertical glass tube. A sphere descends through the liquid. it reaches terminal velocity, which can be measured by the time it takes to pass two marks on the tube. • Thixiotropy - It is a property of certain gels which tend to flow on the account of stress applied on it.
Classification Of Thickening Agents • Lipid Thickeners- (Beeswax, Cetyl alcohol, Steryl alcohol ) • Naturally Derived thickeners- (Modified Cellulose, Guar gum, Xanthan Gum, Gelatin ) •Synthetic Thickeners- (Carbomers, Polyethylene Glycol) • Ionic Thickeners- (Salt)
Carbomer’s • A family of Cross-Linked Acid Polymers • They are essential ingredients in Cosmetics and Pharmaceuticals • They are Excellent Rheology Modifiers
Carbopol Polymers • They are High Mol.Wt Polyacrylic acids, Cross-Linked with polyalkenylether • They provide Thickening with a wide range of flow properties
Thickening Mechanism
Hair Styling Gel Formulation Ingredient
Weight %
Function
Deionized Water
61.2
Diluent
PVP
2.5
Hair Settling Resin
Aminomethyl Propanol
0.30
Neutralizing Agent
CARBOPOL
0.5
Rheology Modifier
Wheat Protein
0.5
Conditioner
Methyl Paraben
0.5
Preservative
Ethanol
34.5
Solvent
Hydroxy Ethyl Cellulose • It is derived from cellulose • It is a non-ionic water soluble Polymer • It can – 1) Thicken 2) Bind 3) Emulsify 4) Form Films 5) Retains Water
Salient Features Of H.E.C • Provides a smooth and silky feel to product • It has high ionic tolerance • It gives an extremely high clarity in gels • It offers good compatibility with surfactants • Wide range of viscosities can be achived with HEC
• A purified cellulose is treated with NaOH to form a swollen alkali cellulose • This swollen alkali cellulose is treated with ethylene oxide to get a long chains of hydroxy ethyl cellulose
Physical Properties
Problems with HEC • CLOUDINESS tends to appear in clear solution in a short span of time • It gives a sticky feeling on the hand over a period of time. • It consists of 5% of volitile matter which is not accepted worldwide.
