© Lonely Planet Publications 24 I T I N E R A R I E S • • T a i l o r e d T r i p s
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TAILORED TRIPS WAKHAN & PAMIR EXPLORER
Three to Four Weeks
This trip into the Wakhan Corridor is highly seasonal and can only be attempted between May and September. Before setting out on this mountain adventure, you’ll need to spend some time checking the current requirements for permits (p168), which change regularly. From Kabul (p79) drive north to Faizabad (p164), the capital of Badakhshan province. It’s a two-day drive needing an overnight stay in Kunduz (p160), but there are regular flights if you’re pushed for time. In Faizabad, make sure that all your paperwork is in order to allow you to head deep into the mountains, and arrange food and 4WD transport to take you past Ishkashim (p167). From Ishkashim it’s a two day drive through stunning mountain scenery to Sarhad-e Broghil (p170). You’ll overnight at Khandud (p169) in the Lower Wakhan, or Qila-e Panja (p170), where Chaqmaqtin you can camp near an old royal huntLake Khandud Qila-e ing lodge. It’s possible to trek the 90km Panja Little to Sarhad-e Broghil, which is useful for Faizabad Pamir Sarhad-e Kunduz acclimatisation. The road runs out here Ishkashim Broghil Dilisang at any case. Pass Sarhad-e Broghil is the trailhead for Kabul treks into the Little Pamir (p171). It’s possible to arrange horses or yaks here for riding or baggage. The Little Pamir is an area of wide alpine grassland 100km long. It’s perfect for trekking, and if you’re lucky you might spot Marco Polo sheep, or even a snow leopard. The nomadic Kyrgyz herd their flocks amid their yurts here. Chaqmaqtin Lake (p172) makes a good trekking destination – a ten-day round trip from the entrance to the Little Pamir. With sufficient advance preparation, it’s possible to trek into Pakistan over the Dilisang Pass (p172), a demanding 12-day trek requiring mountaineering experience.
© Lonely Planet Publications 4
On the Road
PAUL CLAMMER Coordinating Author For me, late summer is the best time to be in Afghanistan, and researching this book was no exception. I missed out on the winter buzkashi (Afghan rugby on horseback, with a dead goat) season, but there was ample compensation in the endless fruit – sweet grapes from the Shomali Plain, fat Kandahari pomegranates and melons everywhere. The country might not be the most straightforward to write a travel guide for, dealing with terrible roads and security concerns, but the rewards (like so many things unexpected in Afghanistan) were always the sweetest.
DON’T MISS! Any trip to Afghanistan should start by entering through the Khyber Pass (p185). I’ll stop in Kabul (p79) to catch up with friends before heading out of the city for the vistas of Bamiyan (p114) and the Band-e Amir lakes (p122). If I can brave the bad roads I’d bump my way to the Minaret of Jam (p126), or fly from Kabul to finish in Herat (p132), my favourite Afghan city.
PAUL’S BIO Paul grew up near Cambridge. After a false start as a molecular biologist he spent several years kicking around the Islamic world from Casablanca to Kashgar, eventually becoming a tour guide in Morocco, Turkey and Pakistan. Having watched The Man Who Would Be King at an impressionable age, the Khyber Pass was always in his sights, and in 2001 he finally made it to Afghanistan, only to find himself having dinner with two Taliban ministers a fortnight before the September 11 attacks. When the dust settled he wrote Kabul Caravan , one of the first travel websites dedicated to Afghanistan, and is now the first Lonely Planet writer to cover the country since the mid-1970s. See contributing author bios on p236.
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications 13
Contents On the Road Destination Afghanistan
4 15
Getting Started
16
Itineraries
20
History
25
The Culture
41
Food & Drink
59
Environment
64
Safety in Afghanistan
68
Bamiyan & Central 113 Afghanistan Climate Getting There & Away
114 114
BAMIYAN
114
History Orientation Information Sights Sleeping Eating Getting There & Away Around Bamiyan
114 116 117 117 120 121 121 122
THE CENTRAL ROUTE
124
Practicalities Bamiyan to Chaghcheran Chaghcheran to Herat
124 125 126
Herat & Northwestern Afghanistan Climate Getting There & Away
130 132 132
© Lonely Planet Publications 14
CONTENTS
Sights Sleeping Eating & Drinking Shopping Getting There & Away Getting Around
152 153 153 154 154 155
AROUND MAZAR-E SHARIF
155
Balkh
155
MAZAR-E SHARIF TO BADAKHSHAN
158
Tashkurgan Samangan (Aibak) Pul-e Khumri Kunduz Ai khanoum
158 158
BADAKHSHAN
163
Faizabad Lake Shewa South to the Anjoman Pass Ishkashim Wakhan & The Afghan Pamir
164 166 166 167
Life Along the Silk Road Jalalabad &
JALALABAD
182
THE SOUTH
195
Orientation Information Sights Sleeping & Eating Getting There & Around Around Jalalabad
183 183 183 184
Ghazni Lashkar Gah
196 197
NURISTAN
186
History Culture Travel in Nuristan
186 187 187
184 184
Directory
198
Transport
212
Health
221
Language
227
Glossary
233
Contributing Authors
236
Behind the Scenes
238
159
160 162
167
173
Kandahar & Southern Afghanistan
188
Climate Getting There & Away
190
KANDAHAR
190
History Orientation Information Dangers & Annoyances Sights
190 191 191
190
193 193
© Lonely Planet Publications 113
Bamiyan & Central Afghanistan
ﺰﺑﺎﻣﻴﺎن واﻓﻐﺎﻧﺴﺘﺎن ﻣﺮ The massed peaks of the Hindu Kush form a huge tangled knot in the centre of the country, aptly known as the Koh-e Baba – the Grandfather of Mountains. It’s also the Hazarajat, the home of the country’s minority Hazara population. Today it’s a remote and marginal area, but was once the crucible for some of Afghanistan’s greatest cultural achievements. Buddhism flowered in the green Bamiyan valley 1500 years ago; a centre of art and pilgrimage that reached its apogee in the creation of the giant statues of Buddha, which overlooked the town until their cruel destruction by the Taliban in 2001. Even deeper into the mountains, the fabulous Minaret of Jam still stands as a testament to the glories of later Muslim dynasties. But the scenery is the real star of central Afghanistan – an unending procession of rocky mountaintops, deep gorges and verdant river valleys. The bright light and crisp mountain air makes the landscape sing, not least the incredible blue lakes of Band-e Amir. The roads can be as bad as the views are spectacular, and visitors should prepare for bumpy travel and some chilly nights at high altitude. You’ll need to time your trip for the warmer months: many communities become cut off once the snows of winter arrive, with roads impassable until after the spring melt.
HIGHLIGHTS
Stand in awe beneath the giant empty Buddha niches of Bamiyan (p114)
Dip your toes in the sapphire-blue lakes of the Band-e Amir (p122)
Climb the ancient ruined citadel of Shahr-e Zohak (p119), guardian of the Bamiyan valley
Bump along the remote and spectacular back-roads of Afghanistan’s central route (p124)
Scale the lost Minaret of Jam (p126), hidden in the folds of the Hindu Kush
Shahr-e Zohak Band-e Amir Minaret of Jam
Central Route
Bamiyan
C E N T R A B L A A M F I G Y A H N A N & I S T A N
© Lonely Planet Publications
NORTHWESTERN AFGHANISTAN
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Herat & Northwestern Afghanistan
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ﻫﺮات وﺷﻤﺎل ﻏﺮباﻓﻐﺎﻧﺴﺘﺎن
n i q r a Q
‘Khorasan is the oyster shell of the world, and Herat is its pearl’, says an old proverb, referring to this Afghan city’s pre-eminence in a region that covered much of medieval Iran and Turkmenistan. It’s a saying that still holds much truth, for Herat still shines as the cultural centre of Afghanistan, a seat of poetry, learning and architecture. Invaders from Genghis Khan to the Russians have all taken turns at flattening it, but Herat still manages to hold its head high, offer its visitors tea and suggest they sample its attractions. And there’s much to take in, from the Citadel that towers over the Old City to its glorious Friday Mosque and many shrines. Those coming from Kabul will be equally amazed by the efficiency of its infrastructure, not least the electricity supply.
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Gaze in awe at the dazzling mosaic tiling of the Friday Mosque (p136) in Herat
Andkhoi
Contemplate poetry with the Sufis at Gazar Gah (p138), one of Afghanistan’s holiest sites Climb the battlements of Herat’s Citadel (p137) for sweeping views across the city Haggle for carpets at the bazaar in Andkhoi (p144), the northwest’s most traditional market town
Gazar Gah Herat
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From this ancient Silk Road oasis, the road crosses the Safed Koh mountains – the last outpost of the Hindu Kush – to reach the northwest. Here the land flattens out to form part of the Central Asian steppe, a semidesert that’s home to Kuchi nomads and Turkmen and Uzbek farmers. This is the main centre for the greatest of the country’s folk arts, the Afghan carpet, and the bright swatches of knotted wool contrast sharply with the dusty landscape that produces them.
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N O R T H W E S T H E E R R N A A T F & G H A N I S T A N
© Lonely Planet Publications 146 THE NORTHWEST •• Shiber ghan
There are several cheap restaurants and chaikhanas immediately to the south and east of the main square, serving kebabs, pulao and mantu.
Getting There & Away There should be a weekly flight to Kabul, provided Ariana wants to operate it – it was out of action when we asked around. The airport is 10km east of the city.
& T A R E H
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Minibuses to Mazar-e Sharif (100Afg, two hours) fill up quickly from a small terminal on the eastern edge of Shiberghan – look for the brick factories nearby. Transport to Aqcha (40Afg, 30 minutes) also leaves from here. Andkhoi transport (70Afg, one hour) leaves from west of the square, past one of Dostum’s gauche terracotta-and-lobsterpink palaces.
N A T S I N A H G F A N R E T S E W H T R O N
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
© Lonely Planet Publications 40 HISTORY •• The Road to Reconstruction
Afghanistan – The Mirage of Peace by Chris Johnson and Jolyon Leslie is the best book on the shelves to give a detailed analysis of the successes and failures of post-Taliban Afghanistan.
2005 Parliamentary elections held
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a new adventure in Iraq. The country received less than a third of the aid per head ploughed into reconstruction efforts in Bosnia, East Timor or Rwanda, and of that less than half went on long-term development programmes. A huge and expensive aid bureaucracy sprang up in parallel to the new Afghan government. Hamid Karzai’s limited writ led him to be dubbed ‘the Mayor of Kabul’. Unable to tackle the resurgent warlords, many of them were simply co-opted into government. It wasn’t all bad news. UN-led disarmament programmes had some impact on reducing the number of small and heavy weapons in the country. School enrolment numbers surged. Attempts to increase the international military footprint resulted in the formation of Provincial Reconstruction Teams (PRTs), with small military units combining security and reconstruction projects, albeit with extremely mixed success. In 2004 a new constitution was agreed upon, and presidential elections returned Karzai as leader. A year later, parliamentary elections took plac e, with reserved seats for women, although many were not only dismayed that known human rights abusers were not disbarred from standing, but that several even found their way into Karzai’s cabinet – where they lobbied for immunity from prosecution for war crimes. A fitful peace returned to most of the country, but international neglect of the south has been the worm in the bud. Pakistan has continued to play its own double-game, publicly signing up to the War on Terror while allowing safe haven to the Taliban leadership and fighters launching crossborder raids. In 2006 the growing insurgency resulted in widespread battles in Helmand and Kandahar Provinces and the bloodiest year since 2001. Suicide bombs, previously unknown in Afghanistan, have been imported from Iraq. Stuck in the death-grip of drugs and insurgency, south Afghanistan looks increasingly like a separate country. With the rest of the nation continuing along its unsteady path, Afghanistan’s immediate future is hard to predict.
2006 NATO takes responsibility for Afghan security; widespread violence across the south
62
FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words
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EAT YOUR WORDS Speaking some of the local lingo always helps and never more than when it’s time for a meal. Afghans will appreciate your efforts, even if your pronunciation is off the mark, and it might help you get beyond the default kabab/pulao (rice with meat or vegetables) dining options. For more information about pronunciation and other language phrases, see the Language chapter, p227.
Useful Phrases DARI
I’d like ... I’d like what he’s eating. I don’t eat meat. The bill please.
... mikham man az ghazayi ke un mikhore mikham. gohst nemikhoram. lotfan surat hesab biyarin.
© Lonely Planet Publications F O O D & D R I N K • • E a t Y o u r W o r d s 63
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morgh moz namak nan norinj panir peste piyaz tarbuza tokhm sabz shukar sib zaradalu
chicken banana salt bread orange cheese pistachio onion melon egg vegetable sugar apple apricot
PASHTO
I’d like ... I’d like what he’s eating. I don’t eat meat. The bill, please.
ghuarum che okherum ... da hagha khuakha zema khuakhada. ze ghuakha ne khurem. bill rawra.
Food Glossary Important food terms are presented below in Dari and Pashto, but be aware that most Afghan dishes, from kababs to mantu, are the same in both languages. DARI
aam ab ab-e mive anaar angabin anjir ash badam banjan banjan-e rumi bastani berenj chai sabz chai siaa gerdu ghawa gosht gosht-e barre gosht-e gau gosht-e gusfand gosht-e shotor holu kachaloo kharbuza khorma limu lubiyaa mast
mango water fruit juice pomegranate honey fig soup almond aubergine tomato ice cream rice green tea black tea walnut coffee meat lamb beef mutton camel meat peach potato watermelon cherry lemon beans yogurt
PASHTO
ashak bolani chai da sahar chai da gharmy dodai da makham dodai dal aw sabzi dodai dodai aw kabab dodai awe kecha ghuakh doreh/roti ghata ghuakha ghuakha hagay kecha ghuakha khuraka feroshi kouch maicha manto market mashrubat masta muraba polave polave awe sabzi qabilie qahwa khana rasturan sabzi samosa shidy shorwa ubuh wrigy
noodle soup stuffed pancake tea breakfast lunch dinner lentils and vegetables bread bread and kebab bread with mutton food beef meat eggs mutton food stall butter noodles steamed meat ravioli market beverages yogurt jam steamed rice rice pilaf and vegetables rice with dried fruits tea house restaurant vegetable triangular shaped stuffed meat pie milk soup water rice
© Lonely Planet Publications 181
Jalalabad & Eastern Afghanistan ﺑﺎد و ﺷﺮقاﻓﻐﺎﻧﺴﺘﺎن ﺟﻼل Think of the great clichés of the Afghan character and you’ll be transported to Afghanistan’s rugged east. Tales of honour, hospitality and revenge abound here, as hardy fighters defend the lonely mountain passes that lead to the Indian subcontinent. For Afghan, read Pashtun: the dominant ethnic group in the east whose tribal links spill across the border deep into Pakistan. Jalalabad is the region’s most important city. Founded by the Mughals as a winter retreat, it sits in an area with links back to when Afghanistan was a Buddhist country and a place of monasteries, pilgrims and prayer wheels. Sweltering in summer, you can quench your thirst with a mango juice before heading for the cooler climes of the Kabul Plateau, via the jaw-dropping Tangi Gharu Gorge. A stone’s throw from Jalalabad is the Khyber Pass, the age-old gateway to the Indian subcontinent. Getting your passport s tamped here as you slip between Afghanistan and Pakistan is to experience one of Asia’s most evocative border crossings. If you’ve been in Afghanistan a while, you might find the sudden Pakistani insistence on providing you with an armed guard for your onward journey a little bemusing. Sadly much of the east remains out of bounds to travellers. The failures of postconflict reconstruction have allowed an Islamist insurgency to smoulder among the peaks and valleys that dominate this part of the country. The beautiful woods and slopes of Nuristan – long a travellers’ grail – remain as distant a goal as ever and the current climate means that carefully checking security issues remains paramount before any trip to the region.
HIGHLIGHTS
Enjoy the orange blossom of the many gardens in Jalalabad (p182)
Cross the iconic Khyber Pass (p185), the gateway to Peshawar in Pakistan
Take in the shade of the Mughal gardens at Nimla (p184)
Jalalabad Nimla
Khyber Pass
E A S T E J R A N L A A L F A G B H A A D N & I S T A N
© Lonely Planet Publications 79
K A B U L
Kabul ﺎ ﺑ ﻞ When the Taliban fled Kabul in the face of the post-9/11 US bombing campaign, they left a city wrecked by years of war. Half the city consisted of rubble and no-one could remember the last time anything new had been built. It was a city on life-support. Today, Kabul seems to change on an almost daily basis. Swathes of the city have been cleared, and new buildings are quickly thrown up as if in a steroid-powered building contest. The air is thick with the sound of mobile phones. New restaurants and busy bazaars cater to the nouveau riche Afghans surfing an economic boom and the sizeable international community helping with Afghanistan’s reconstruction (or just making money out of it). While there’s a long way to go before Kabul is restored to its position as a travellers’ haunt, there’s a whiff of its old cosmopolitan self in the air. But it’s not all roses and flashy new 4WD cars. Electricity and clean water remain a distant aspiration for the majority of the population, which has doubled since the end of 2001 with returning refugees. Plenty of Kabulis still live in bombed-out buildings or worse, and beggars, war widows and street children further swell the traffic jams that clog the city. Reconstruction for the poorest has been frustratingly slow. Kabul today is a fascinating snapshot of the birth pangs of a new nation, and a city permanently on the cusp of change. As an introduction to Afghanistan it’s exciting, frustrating, inspiring and shocking in equal measure.
HIGHLIGHTS
Enjoy the green spaces and flowers of Babur’s Gardens (p87), p87), recently restored to their former glory
Ponder the surviving exhibits at the Kabul Museum (p88), p88), a frontline in Afghanistan’s struggle to keep its heritage alive
Climb above the City Walls (p90) p90) for crisp air and mountain views over the city
Visit the OMAR Landmine Museum (p93) p93) to learn more about the silent killers still plaguing the country
Haggle for carpets and lapis lazuli in Chicken Street (p102), p102), home to Afghanistan’s keenest souvenir sellers
Experience the sights and smells of old Kabul at the traditional Bird Market (p90) p90) of Ka Faroshi
AREA CODE: 020
Chicken St OMAR Landmine Museum
Bird Market Babur's Gardens
City Walls
Kabul Museum
POPULATION: 3 MILLION (ESTIMATED)
ELEVATION: 1800M
© Lonely Planet Publications
Kandahar & Southern Afghanistan ﻨﺪﻫﺎر وﺟﻨﻮ باﻓﻐﺎﻧﺴﺘﺎن &
N A T S I N A H G F A
R A H A D N N A R K E H T U O S
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Kandahar city at dusk from a roof top is Asia at its most beguiling – kites swinging in the air, pigeons tinkling back to perch, few buildings higher than two stories, mud roofs, and the desert mountains beyond – this could lull you into believing this was a peaceful, middling city, the hub of a wheel whose spokes lead to Oruzgan in the north, Helmand and Nimroz beyond to the west, Pakistan to the south and a climb to Kabul through Zabul and Ghazni in the east. But its charms remain locked securely behind high-walled compounds and few know the region for more than the draconian regime of the Taliban. The tragedy of the south is that is has so much to offer in terms of the warm Pashtun culture of welcoming strangers and feeding them the finest fare of the household, world-class fruit and vegetables, and eerie landscapes where you can see a river bed, desert mountains and the curve of the earth in a single vista, but the extreme politics and violence that have and continue to consume the area mean that very few get to see it.
HIGHLIGHTS Sunrise over Kandahar and beyond from the Forty Steps (p193)
Climb to the top of Baba Wali Shrine (p193) in Kandahar and look out over Arghandab Valley, followed by fresh juices and ice cream Explore the Towers of Victory (p196) and other remnants of the empire in Ghazni
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Mullah Omar commanded the Taliban from here, he welcomed Osama Bin Laden here and the first ever democratically elected President of Afghanistan came from here. Politically and historically the south is the most significant region in Afghanistan.
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The occasional black turban of a Talib, the white turban of the returning Haj pilgrim, the dirty boys in ragged shalwar kameez playing in the street, the fleeting pair of burqas billowing in the wind, the pick-up trucks brimming with rugged fighters, the henna-haired old man with his bird cages, the Pashtuns. Southern Afghanistan and Kandahar, its gateway city, is the crown of Pashtunwali and the Pashtun way of life – a culture that is questionably stronger than the religion many mistake it for.
KANDAHAR & SOUTHERN AFGHANISTAN
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© Lonely Planet Publications 232 P A S H T O • • N u m b e r s
NUMBERS See p228 for the script used with numbers. 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 20 21 30 39 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 101 200 1000 1001
E G A U G N A L
sefer yau dua drei tsalare penza shpag owa ata naha las yauolas shal yau wisht dirsh naha dirsh tsalwekht panzos shpeta awia atia nawi sal yau sal yau dua sawa zer yau zer yau
SHOPPING & SERVICES Where’s the nearest ...? kum ... negdy dai? bazaar bazar grocery store khuraka feroshi market market pharmacy dawa khana Where can I buy a ...? How much does this cost? It’s very expensive. Can you reduce the price? credit card money exchange travellers cheque
... cherta akhestelay shem? da pe tso dai? da deir gran dai baia kamawalay shey? credit card paisy badlawal safari chek
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TIME & DATE When? What time is it? morning afternoon evening today tonight tomorrow
kala? tso bajy dhi? sahar da gharmy na wrosta makham nan wraz nan shpa saba
Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday
pir/doshanba naha/mangle sharow/budh ziarat/jumarat juma hafta/shanba atwar/yakshanba
TRANSPORT I’d like to go to ... What time does the next bus leave? Where is the bus terminal? I want to get off at ... How much? return ticket ticket office car fill up map motorbike petrol
ze ghuaram che ... ta lar shem bal ba pe tso bajo bus rarasigi? cherta dai bus ada? ze ghuaram pe ... ke kooz shem karaya tso da? wapasi tiket tiketono dafter motor dakawal naksha motor saikel petrol
SAFE TRAVEL Is it safe/dangerous? khatar day? Are there landmines? dalta nazhde kum mayn shta? aid-worker bomb gun refugee rocket soldier war/fighting
(mayn as in English ‘mine’) mrastanduy bam topak kadwal/mahajir raket askar jang
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Mazar-e Sharif & Northeastern Afghanistan ﻣﺰارﺷﺮﻳﻒ وﺷﻤﺎل ﺷﺮقاﻓﻐﺎﻧﺴﺘﺎن Travel north of the Hindu Kush and you’ll find a quite different Afghanistan. The Central Asian steppe starts here, a wide grassy plain that stretches all the way to Russia. For much of its history, the Afghan city-states of the north looked across the Amu Darya towards Bukhara and Samarkand for their interests instead of to Kabul. Indeed, until the Salang Tunnel through the Hindu Kush was completed in the mid-1960s this was a totally isolated part of the country, accessible only by traversing the highest part of the mountains north of Kabul, or making a long desert crossing via Herat. Travellers should head first for Mazar-e Sharif, home to the shimmering blue domes of the Shrine of Hazrat Ali. Nearby lies the far more ancient town of Balkh, where Zoroastrianism was born and Alexander the Great took his wife. His footprints can also be detected near the town of Kunduz at the ruins of Ai Khanoum, the easternmost Greek city in the world. Continuing further east, the big mountains start to rise from the plains again in the province of Badakhshan. One of the remotest corners of the country, roads here become lost in the tangle of peaks where the Hindu Kush meet the Pamirs. The best way to get around is by foot, or with the yaks of the nomadic Kyrgyz who live in the thin tongue of land of the Wakhan Corridor, an area bursting with potential as a future trekking destination.
HIGHLIGHTS
Join the pilgrims at the blue Shrine of Hazrat Ali (p152) in Mazar-e Sharif
Head to Balkh (p155) to find the ruins of an ancient citadel and Afghanistan’s oldest mosque
Discover the unusual Buddhist temple and caves of Takht-e Rostam (p158) in Samangan
Look for the remains of ancient Greeks at Ai Khanoum (p162) on the Tajikistan border
Trek with yaks in the high altitude splendour of the Wakhan Corridor (p167)
Ai Khanoum Balkh Mazar-e Sharif Samangan
Wakhan Corridor
N O R T H M E A A Z S A T R E - R E N S A H F A G R H I A F N &
