Menswear Pattern Cutting First Edition
Tanya Dove -Designer, Creator, Author, Educator
Acknowledgements I would like to thank: My male friends who became my fitting models, and with their help trying on my samples A Technical Foundation was created. Edward, Stuart, Peter, Dominique, Tom and Scott. My teacher Graham at London College of Fashion for teaching me Bespoke Tailoring Techniques. And to all the teachers and students who have crossed my path, I thank you.
A Technical Foundation Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting
Concept to Creation The Design Process
ISBN 9781849634717
ISBN 9781849635738
Contents Chapter 1
Information
Page No. 4
2
Trousers
16
3
Pleats and Fullness
68
4
Body blocks
76
5
Front openings
92
6
Sleeves and Cuffs
106
7
Collars
130
8
Necklines
158
9
Hoods
164
10
Pockets
170
11
Shirt details
182
12
Jersey Tops
192
13
Jersey Trousers
202
14
Boiler Suits
214
15
Casual Jackets
228
16
Casual Coats
238
17
Tailored Jackets
246
18
Tailored Coats
278
19
Ties
298
20
Loungewear
304
21
Grading
322
22
Specification Templates
328
23
Costing Garments
332
24
Fabrics
338
Introduction Menswear Designing Men are now far more conscious of their body and the clothes they wear, with a greater confidence in maintaining a well-groomed appearance now defines what it is to be ‘a man’ in today’s society. The loose fitting shirts and loose tailored trousers of the 1980’s have been replaced from the catwalks to the high street with body conscious styles, interesting fabrics, and clever cutting methods. Men are now much more aware of their own body and image, and how clothes fit them. Menswear designers and catwalk shows have always taken back stage to women’s fashion shows and publicity, but things are now changing for men. More and more menswear designers are pushing the boundaries of what is classified as conventional clothing for men. There were more skirts for men seen on the Summer 14 catwalks than seen before. The idea of men in skirts blurs the visual distinctions between the sexes. It contradicts how men are expected to look and, more fundamentally, challenges ideal attributes of male behavior. Their adoption by the general male populace will ultimately depend on the re-evaluation of traditional gender conventions. Through the work of contemporary designers, the idea of ‘men in skirts’ is constantly given new impetus. The new ‘metro-sexual’ man is a young man with a healthy disposable income, living or working near a city. He is perhaps the most promising consumer market of the decade. The acceptance and changing shapes and styles in menswear is becoming as important as women’s wear.
A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting The aim of this book is to provide a clear flexible guide to pattern cutting for menswear. It provides detailed construction information for garment blocks and components that are used to produce well cut designs for men. The measurements contained within this book have evolved from an analysis of young men, from high street retailer sizing to individual body shapes. There is no definitive universal sizing chart, many retailers adjusting their sizing to suit the age group of their consumers. The style of pattern construction throughout the book provides a 40” chest, 100cm male model measurements. The measurement guide is derived for the user to write his or her own chosen measurements, which can replace the standard size. The pattern block construction throughout this book is for the modern man, using up to date methodology of creation for a young slim figure. The book includes three different shapes of body blocks that are used to create men’s top body garments. From the fitted young style of shirt, to the formal office shirt and casual weekend style. These foundation body blocks are used throughout the book and adapted into jersey blocks, casual jacket and tailored jacket blocks.
To create collections, whether model size for catwalk shows and photo shoots, or an individual’s size, garment blocks are always used in industry and adapted into the chosen design. A Technical Foundation takes you through the creation of these blocks, which can then be used and adapted repeatedly. It is a foundation of pattern cutting as it shows you how to create the blocks, not individual garment designs. A Technical Foundation shows you the creation of blocks through to plans and patterns for making specific designs, where seam allowance is only added onto pattern examples, blocks and plans being net of allowances. The book is written for students and fashion designers to explore their own creativity in their approach to men’s garment creation. It shows clear detailed illustrations and technical construction information, showing adaption of blocks in colour for easy use. Each garment block section covers a range of different shaped garment blocks, which makes adapting into individual designs that much easier. The chapters have been designed in an order of simplicity at the beginning, and the technical aspect of pattern cutting getting more complex throughout the book. Ranging from trouser and body blocks through to tailoring and jersey wear blocks. With each garment and component in different chapters A Technical Foundation has been designed in a way for the designers to evolve through the book reaching a level of understanding and practice, to then have the technical skills to design their own collections. There are also technically illustrated sample designs to show the type of garments that the different blocks can create. A Technical Foundation also shows detailed technical specification templates to enable the designers to draw their designs in detail. It contains a chapter for costing garments and producing specification sheets which are used in industry to work with pattern cutters and factories. The grading chapter shows a grading size chart of how to change garment sizes, with detailed illustrations and information on pivot grading. The final chapter, Fabrics, gives information on how to cut out fabric and the different fabric qualities. There are many choices of fabrics available to use within fashion design, from natural fibres like cotton, wool, silk and linen to man made and mixed fibre fabrics. The fibres chart gives a description of some different types of natural and manufactured fabrics available.
Tanya Dove
1. Information
1. INFORMATION Measurement Size Chart The measurement size chart is a guide of body measurements for size 100cm (40”) chest, based on a male model physique 6 foot tall. The measurements have been compiled by an analysis of top high street retailers in the UK, and a selection of male models with the same chest measurement. There is no definitive size chart across the UK, or indeed across the globe for garment sizes. Many stores choose to adapt their size towards their customer profile. The main difference between sizes is the chest and waist measurement where a 5cm grade (size difference) is used. This still remains relatively standard across the industry. This measurement guide chart has been used as the standard throughout A Technical Foundation. There is a column for you to add in your own size chart, whether it is your own measurements or your idealistic customers body size. Refer to Chapter 21, Grading for larger and smaller body sizes.
Measurement Cross shoulder One Shoulder Back Neck Drop Front Neck Drop Back Neck Width Neck Size XB - 14cm down from HPS XF - 14cm down from HPS CB neck to chest (armhole depth) Chest Waist - (natural WL - not used) Waistline ( 4cm below natural WL) Body length to natural waistline Waistline to Seat line Seat Crutch Line (body rise) from WL Inside Leg Outside Leg from WL Thigh Knee Ankle Sleeve Length Bicep Elbow Wrist
40"/100cm
46 15 1.5 9 16 42 42 40 26 100 86 89 53 20 104 28 85 108 59 40 25 62 32 28 18
Your Size
1. Information
Body Measurements
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1. Information
Abbreviations Index Abbreviations on patterns are used all across industry to save time and space in writing the full wording. They are written on blocks, plans and patterns. Below is a chart of some key abbreviations. Depending on design, would depend on what ones you would use within your pattern construction. CH, WL and SL are always written on all pattern construction.
CB CF SB SF SS CH WL SL CL CBL HPS XF XB S AD NL
Centre Back Centre Front Side Back Side Front Side Seam Chest Line Waist Line Seat Line (hipline) Crutch Line Centre Back Length High Point Shoulder Cross Front Cross Back Shoulder Armhole Depth Neckline
Pattern Making Tools 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Fine liner pencil – 0.5 lead size Ruler – A pattern master ruler has straight and curved edges and a right angle. It is the only ruler required for pattern making. Tape measure Paper scissors Notchers – notchers make a small hole in patterns, to aid with sewing garments together.
2
4
3 5 1 8
1. Information
Ease Ease = ease of movement. When a garment block is made with measurements you need to add an allowance to allow you to move and feel comfortable in the clothes. EASE is added into the chest, waist and seatline as a standard. It is also added into shoulder lines, XB and XF for additional movement. CH - Chest Line ease = 4cm (to help you breathe) WL - Waist Line ease = 2cm-4cm (to allow for eating) SL - Seat Line ease = 4cm (so you can sit down) The ease above is the standard industry amount. For some very fitted styles less ease can be added to achieve the finished look, a minimum of 2cm anywhere on the body. For top body garments a minimum of 4cm waist ease has been added as men do not wear their clothes as tight around the waist as women can. 2cm has been added at the waistline for trousers, otherwise they could be too big when fitted.
Seams Seam allowances must be added onto all pattern pieces to allow you to sew them together. The industry standard for seams is 1cm. Larger seams are used by more expensive retailers, and predominantly on tailoring – 1.5cm or 2cm seam. The most commonly used seams are:-
Straight Seam a 1cm seam allowance when the seam is stitched together and over locked. Over locking together and pressing to one side, or overlocking separately and pressing the seam open.
Flat Felled Seam This seam is used traditionally for casual clothing, jeans, casual trousers and jackets which do not have lining. It is also used on men’s tailored shirts. It finished the seam neatly on both the inside and outside. 1.5cm seam allowance is used. Sewn together at 1.5cm, one side is then cut to 0.5cm. The larger side is folded over at 0.5cm and stitched in place to finish at 1cm finish. Straight Seam
Flat Felled Seam
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1. Information
Hems A hem is the term used for an open edge – the bottom of a garment and sleeves. The most common hems are:A 2cm hem allowance is used when you double turn 1cm the hem and topstitch in place. A 3-4cm hem allowance is used when you hand sew a hem. This is used for wool fabrics and tailored garments. It is a more expensive way of finishing a garment. The top edge of the hem can either be overlocked or have binding attached to finish the top raw fabric edge.
Notches A notch is a small indentation made on pattern pieces and a 3mm cut is made in the same place on the fabric when the garment is cut out. They are to help sewing the garment together. They are used at CL, WL, SL, Knee line, and in specific places like the end of a zipper opening, armholes to help sewing curves etc. Notches help so always use as many as required, especially on long seams. When making a garment with panels, back to back panels have two notches, front to front panels have one notch. Back to front has just one notch. 1cm seam allowance is never notched, but bigger seam allowances do have notches. The hemline is also notched.
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1. Information
Darts Men’s blocks can have waist darts to bring excess from chest line to waistline. This is to take the 2D pattern pieces and create 3D garments to fit the Human Form. They are used to create shaping to fit the body where our bodies contour in and out. Some men’s shirts have darts at the back to create more fitted styles. On tailored jackets there is a small dart in the front panel to curve the garment from chest to waist. Very rarely are darts seen on the front of mens shirts and top body garments. Men’s trousers have dart shaping at the back only due to men having small “hip” or seat measurement in comparison to their waist measurement. The front of men’s trousers are always flat down from the waistline, unless they have pleats.
Drill Holes A drill hole is a mark that is made on a plan and pattern and transferred onto the fabric when cutting. They are used for pockets and details that are inside a pattern piece I.E. not on an edge where you can use a notch. The position is marked accurately on the plan and pattern however on the fabric it is best marked 3mm down and 3mm across from the actual position to prevent any fabric damage.
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1. Information
Grain Lines Grain lines are always drawn on all blocks, plans and pattern pieces. These show the direction in which the fabric is to be cut out. The grain line is drawn to represent the selvedge of the fabric (the natural edge). The grain line is drawn as a straight line with information written down the length. The purpose of this is for the cutter to know how to cut the fabric from the pattern. It is important to ensure grain lines are perfectly straight otherwise the fabric could be cut out wrong. This would be “off grain”. Fabric is very sensitive when cut and if it is cut off grain it could cause the seams to not be smooth and the fabric to not hang down the body correctly. This is called roping.
Grain Lines Diagram
Straight Grain - the selvedge is the natural edge of the fabric. The grain line of garments follow this line down the length of the fabric (not the edge which has been cut when the fabric was purchased). This is the most common grain line used for menswear.
Cross Grain - is when you cut at a right angle to the grain line. This would be cutting along the edge, which has been cut when purchased (across the fabric width). Only some fabrics can be cut out cross grain – these tend to be stable fabrics like cottons, which do not have much natural stretch. Cross grain cutting is also used for design detailing if the fabric is for example a stripe or check.
Bias Grain – this is when pattern pieces are cut at a 45-degree angle. This is where the fabric has the most amount of natural stretch. Bias cut garments cling more to the body, depending on the fabric they can completely hug the body. Traditionally the back yoke of mens shirts is cut on the bias grain.
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1. Information
Folded Edges When a pattern piece is made with a folded edge the grain line is drawn in a different way, to show the person cutting out the garment that the piece is on the fold. There are two different ways to draw this.
Zipper Openings An opening on trousers finishes 18cm below the waistline to enable you to fit the garment over the seat. Zips do not need to come any lower than 18cm below the waistline (even if you lower the waistline). A notch mark is used to show where the zipper needs to end. This is applicable for side seam and front and back openings. When a zipper is used at the side seam it is ALWAYS sewn on the LEFT side of the body which makes it easy for right handed people to open easily. When choosing a zipper for your garment it is advisable to select one that is a suitable thickness and weight for the fabric you are going to use. If the zipper is too thin and light it will not be strong enough for repeated use. If the zipper is too heavy it might make the fabric drag down with the weight of the zip.
Regular Zipper This is the zipper where you can see the zip, the “teeth”. Used in trousers for the centre front fly opening. There are now many styles of regular zippers with different coloured teeth, metal, plastic etc. It opens one end only with the zipper pulley (also there are many types of zipper pulleys available). This zipper is best used when you want to see the zip, or where the zip is covered by a stand, like on mens trousers.
Open Ended Zipper This zip opens both ends and is used in jackets, coats and garments where you need (or want) to open the garment up completely. The same as a regular zipper, there are many choices of open-ended zippers available. These tend to be heavy zips, and are best used in casual wear and outerwear. Also available are double ended open ended zippers, where the garment can be partially opened down from the top and also up from the bottom at the same time.
Invisible Zipper This zipper has the teeth on the inside so there is no visible zipper on the outside. Mainly used in women’s dresses and skirts, sewn on the left side seam so it cannot be seen at all. It works well for fine fabrics, as the zipper is more delicate than a regular zip.
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1. Information
Interfacing Interfacing is a type of fabric that is used on the inside, generally ironed onto the fabric, to create a firmer stiff finish. It is used to hold the shape – collars, waistline, armholes, necklines (with facings). It is cut 3mm smaller around all sides of the pattern piece. There are different weights of interfacing, to be used based on the weight of the fabric. Available is iron on and non iron on interfacing. Both work in the same way, the iron on variety will make the fabric itself stiffer. If you are trying to create a ‘stiff’ form, i.e. a stand up stiff coat collar then use a very heavy interfacing (even if the fabric is lighter). Alternatively you can hand baste canvas around the fabric to give it extra weight without stiffness. This hand basting method is used in tailoring and gives a perfect finish to front facings and collars where you need to make the garment more firm in these areas but without being stiff.
Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern BLOCKS - these are basic styles made from measurements. They are used in industry as a base to create new designs. Blocks do not have seam or hem allowances. Blocks are made in the basic garment categories:- Body blocks, trousers, jacket and coat blocks. Also different blocks are made for woven and jersey fabrics (stretch fabrics). Blocks are the foundation of designs. Many designers will have a multitude of blocks that they can choose from when designing a new garment. From a fitted shirt block, to a loose casual style of shirt block. To design you select the block which best represents the silhouette of your new design, fitted, loose etc. Trace around the block to create your plan. PLANS - a plan is made by tracing round your block and adding your new design details. A plan is a map of your new style. Always keep the waistline or hipline aligned on the plan to ensure the length of the front and back are the same. Some new design lines could overlap on the plan, using coloured highlighter pens can make it easier for creating the pattern from the plan if the design is complex. Plan’s are never cut up. They are used for reference in case there is any design or fitting issues once the garment is made. Plan’s do not have seam or hem allowances. The BACK is always placed to the left of the page, the front panel to the right. This enables the side seams to be next to each other for length any design detailing. Written content on a plan consists of abbreviations and the grain lines and notch marks.
PATTERNS - to make a pattern you trace off each individual garment piece adding on the seam allowances and hem allowance. Grain lines and notches are drawn on each pattern piece. Information and notches on pattern pieces are very important for when you sew the garment together. Also adding on the abreviations onto each pattern piece.
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1. Information
Pattern making steps = Block to Plan to Pattern EXAMPLE Start any new design by choosing the most suitable block for your new design. PLAN your design by tracing over the block, and marking all the new design details onto the plan. PATTERN pieces are then taken from the plan individually and seam allowance added to each piece to enable the design to be sewn together.
Example shows the front leg of a pair of jeans. The pattern for the front leg is made up of 8 pieces. Once your design is made, you can refer back to the plan to make additional pairs of jeans, changing the design details, pocket placement etc. This is the advantage of keeping plans, it means you do not have to start again if a design works. On the other side, if there is a fitting issue, or a design detail that does not work, you can refer back to the plan and make the changes, again the plan prevents you from going back to the beginning.
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2. Trousers
2. TROUSERS Introduction Men’s trousers come in two predominant shapes. The Jeans style and the Tailored Trousers style. The construction of the back seam and crutch line is different for both designs. Traditionally the tailored trouser style would be worn by men in offices who sit down a lot. The crutch line is longer which not only makes more room at the back for sitting, but also more room for the thigh (also for sitting down a lot). Tailored trousers always used to be made of wool and lined to the knee. Wool is a more delicate fabric than denim cottons, which jeans are made of, and therefore enough movement needs to be added for comfort when worn. The jeans construction adds extra into the back seat line instead of the crutch line. This creates shaping around the bottom allowing for sitting also. This method keeps the leg slimmer and the trousers tighter around the thigh. Traditionally jeans would have been work wear and therefore more standing than sitting. Denim fabric, predominantly used for jeans, is also a tough strong fabric which would stretch slightly after many times of wear. Construction of the trouser blocks shows 3 steps – Step 1 the basic construction, Step 2 is jeans, Step 3 is the tailored trousers. The basic step 1 would not be used to make trousers and would always be adapted into the jeans or tailored style as it does not have enough movement in it. Modern trouser designs can use either the tailored or jeans construction method, and also adapt the plan suit the design/customer.
Trousers Lengths Men’s trouser lengths are measured from the inside leg in inches.
Very short shorts Short (swimming shorts length) Above the Knee (tailored shorts length On the knee High Mid calf (cargo pants style) Ankle
4” – 10cm 8” – 20cm 15” – 37.5cm 17” – 42.5cm 24” – 60cm 34” – 85cm
2. Trousers
Trousers Lengths
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2. Trousers
Trouser Block A trouser block is the basic foundation of making trousers. It needs to have an opening, normally centre front fly for menswear. Trousers also need to have a waist finish, either a waistband or a facing on the inside. Mens trousers also tend to have belt loops sewn onto the waistline for a belt to be passed through. Pockets are also common on mens trousers, from patch pockets to pockets in side seams. The top of the basic block reaches the waistline on men (not the natural waistline which is never used).
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2. Trousers
Trouser Block Construction
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2. Trousers
Trouser Block Construction The trouser block construction INCLUDES the waistband in the block. This needs to be drawn on the plan when creating your own designs. Begin with mapping out the essential lines of construction for the back and front leg. The Map.
MAP 1–2 1–3 3–4 4 1 6 6 8
– – – -
5 6 7 8 9
9 - 10
WL to Seat Line WL – Crutch Line Crutch Line – Knee Line Half inside leg measurement Knee Line to hemline Measurement is longer than crutch line WL to Seat Line WL – Crutch Line Crutch Line – Knee Line Half inside leg measurement Knee Line to hemline
20cm 28cm 42.5cm 42.5cm 60cm 20cm 28cm 42.5cm 42.5cm
BACK 6 – 22 22 – 23 23 – 24
24 – 25 25 – 26
8 - 27 9 – 28 10 – 29
28 – 30 27 – 31 30 – 31
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Centre Back crutch line Raise waistline by 1cm Join 23 to 7 with a straight line Quarter waistline plus dart, Waistline = 89cm +2cm ease = 91cm ¼ = 22.75 + dart width = 1.5cm Half way along waistline Dart length Draw in dart line. 0.75cm to the left and right of the central position of the dart. Join to point 26. One fifth of thigh measurement (59cm = 11.8cm) Two thirds on back crutch Inside leg seam (back from line) Inside leg seam Join 28 to 29 with a straight line ** optional to reduce the hem width further for a fitted ankle. Up to 8cm One third inside leg measurement – crutch line to knee line Drop crutch line by 1cm Draw inside leg seam with a smooth curve Measurement must be the same as the front leg, measure 21 to 17 and make the back leg the same (this is why the back crutch position is dropped by 1cm (27-31)
4cm 1cm 24.25cm
12.1cm 8cm
7.8cm 4cm 4cm
14.1cm 1cm
7 – 32
8 – 33 9 – 34 10 – 35
Draw centre back seam with a smooth curve. Keep curve 4cm out from point 8 Quarter seat line Seat Line 104cm +4cm ease Join 24 to 32 with a smooth line Crutch line Same as 7 – 32 Knee width Same as 7 – 32 Same as 7 – 32 Draw in outside leg seam, join 32 to 33, down to 34 and 35 on the hemline
2. Trousers
31 – 7
27cm
27cm 27cm 27cm
FRONT 1 – 11 11 – 12 2 – 13
3 – 14 4 – 14 5 – 16
3 – 17
2 – 17 4 – 18 18 – 19
18 – 20
Front seam line point Join 11 – 2 on the seat line Quarter waist (Waist 89cm + 2cm ease = 91cm) 22.75cm Quarter seat (Seat 104cm + 4cm ease = 108cm) Join waistline to seat line with a smooth curve (joining 12 to 13) Crutch line, same measurement as 2-13 Knee line - Same measurement as 2-13 Hemline - Same measurement as 2-13 Draw in straight side seam by joining 13 to 14,14 and 16 One fifth of thigh measurement (60cm = 12cm) One third on front crutch (Two thirds on back crutch) Join front seam line with a smooth curve Inside leg seam position in from line Inside leg position Join 18 to 19 with a straight line ** optional to reduce the hem width further for a fitted ankle. Up to 8cm Half inside leg measurement from Crutch line to Knee line Join 17 to 20 with a smooth curved line
1cm 22.75cm 27cm
27cm 27cm 27cm
4cm
4cm 4cm
21.25cm
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2. Trousers
Jeans The jeans block has a more fitted trouser leg, which requires additional fabric placed into the centre back seam to enable you to sit down comfortably. The average amount added into the back seam is 3cm, but this depends on the size of the wearer’s bottom. There needs to be enough fabric so when you sit down the top edge of the jeans does not drop down too far. Jeans are traditionally full of details - pockets, yokes, belt loops, and topstitching details. A jeans style can however be made in any fabric, including wool which is classified as being a tailoring fabric. Generally they are seen made of casual cotton fabrics, denim, corduory, brushed cotton etc.
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2. Trousers
Jeans Block Construction
23
2. Trousers
Jeans
Construction
1–2
Raise the back seat line, raising the top of the trouser block (see diagram) This allows extra around the bottom for sitting down, without making the crutch any bigger. Smooth the centre back seam Smooth the side seam at seat line Reduce waistline by 1cm
Plan 1 2
3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
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Draw a line for the waistband. 4cm down from WL, front and back leg. Move the small back dart to the side seam (measure at the waistband edge and remove this amount from the side seam, then do not use the dart in the leg. Draw in back yoke – 7cm at CB seam and 2cm at side seam Design back pocket, top edge is 2cm lower than yoke seam. Draw in front pocket position, 8cm down the side seam under the waistband. Top position is half way along the waistline. Draw in the inner front pocket (right side only) Part of the pocket is visible and part is hidden inside the pocket. Draw in front fly – 3.5cm wide and finishes 2cm above the SL. Curve at the bottom edge. Extend CF edge to draw the fly back, 3.5cm wide and the same length as the fly front. Extend front waistband the width of the fly back. Draw in belt loop positions – centre of front, on the front side panel, centre of back panel and CB seam. 7 loops in total.
3cm
2. Trousers
Jeans Plan
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2. Trousers
Pattern 1
2
3 4
5
6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13
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Back waistband – close the back dart when tracing off the waistband by joining both sides of the dart together. CB seam is cut on fold so no seam allowance is added. 1cm seam around all other edges. Cut 2 on fold, one for outside and one for the inside. Back yoke – add 1cm seam allowance around the top and side edge. CB and body seam has 1.5cm seam allowance and is sewn as a flat felled seam. Cut 2. Back yokes sometimes have lining on the inside for a nice finish. Back pocket – 1cm seam allowance and a 2cm double turn top edge opening. Cut 2 Belt Loop is 4cm wide, folded in half then folded again and stitched. It has a 2cm seam at the top and hem edges to fold over the waistband and sit larger than the finished waistband to allow for a belt to go through. Belt loops are sometimes topstitched onto the body and not caught into the waist/body seam. Often seen with a buttonhole zig zag stitch. Cut 7 belt loops for the waistband. Back leg cut 2. This is now without the yoke or waistband. Mark drill holes for back pocket position. Inside leg is 1.5cm seam allowance and is a flat felled seam, the same as the CB seam and top edge which is attached to the yoke. The outside leg seam is 1cm seam allowance. Add 2cm hem allowance for a double turn finish Front waistband – right front has the extension of 3.5cm which will connect to the fly back. 1cm seam allowance around all edges. Cut 2 Left front waistband is cut 2 at the CF line. Add 1cm seam allowance around all edges. Back front pocket – mark on drill holes for the inside pocket position. 1cm seam around all edges, cut 2 Front pocket lining – normally made of cotton, add 1cm seam allowance around all edges. Cut 2. Front inside pocket – add 1cm seam allowance and a 2cm double turn top edge opening. Cut 1 and sew to the right side pocket back. Fly front – add 1cm seam allowance around all edges. This is sewn into the left front leg on the inside, cut 1 Fly back is cut 1 on the fold. 1cm seam allowance around all edges Front leg is cut 2. Add 1cm seam allowance on the outside leg, pocket edge, top edge and CF. Add 1.5cm seam allowance for the inside leg which is flat felled seam. 2cm hem which is 1cm double turn finish.
2. Trousers
Jeans Pattern
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2. Trousers
Tailored Trousers Tailored trouser blocks have an increased centre back crutch seam by lowering the crutchline and extending the thigh measurement. An additional amount is added to the centre back waistline at the top of the seam. This style of trousers is traditional for mens suits, where the leg and back crutch seam are looser. Compared to jeans which are more fitted style of trousers. Tailored trousers are generally made in wool and lined to the kneeline. Pockets are normally seen in the side seam, with one or two back tailored jet pockets. The detailing on tailored trousers is minimal compared to jeans style of trousers. This looser leg suits wool fabrics as there is more movement than cottons which are used in the casual jeans style of fitting.
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