How to Make A Shirt - Pattern Cutting

How to Make a Shirt Pattern cutting and Sewing Part 1 By Tanya Dove Author of A Technical Foundation, Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting ISBN-13: 978-1849634717

A Technical Foundation, Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting · ISBN-10: 1849634718 · ISBN-13: 978-1849634717

Part 1 – Pattern Cutting •  •  •  • 

Using your made to measure block Creating a plan of a shirt design Making the shirt pattern Selecting fabric

Part 2 – Sewing a Shirt •  •  •  • 

Fabric Lay Chalk and cutting Sewing step by step Fitting

Abbreviations used in pattern cutting

Ease of Movement Breathing – Bust Line = 4cm Eating – Waist Line = 2cm Sitting – Hip Line = 4cm Ease of movement is added into blocks to allow you to move in the clothes you make. Ease can be a minimum of 2cm for BL and HL for very fitted styles.

Made to measure bodice block, Step 1 of 4.

WAISTLINE = Hip minus waist measurement Divide the difference by 4. HALVE this as a block is HALF the body. Then divide by 4. ¼ for Back and front dart. ¼ for Back and front side seam Side seam is curved from WL to HL. WL to BL is Straight, UP 1cm more.

NECK OPENING – small size is 7cm (14cm total) Back neck drop at 2cm stays the same for many sizes. XB = stays at 11cm down from HPS.

Dart width is 6cm for a B cup. Create CF side of bust dart first. Add dart width Close front bodice with other half of shoulder measurement and remaining XF measurement

Sleeve head curve comes from the armhole measurement of the back and front bodice.

Bodice Block

Trace your block onto card or paper to make your shirt plan.

Trace the back and front bodice. Keep the BL, WL and HL aligned across the page. Mark in essential abbreviations.

Trace sleeve block next to bodice. Or on a separate piece of paper.

Add the design panel lines in as per your design technical drawing.

Add the design panel lines in as per your design technical drawing.

Add placket position on sleeve hem. At 6cm from side seam. Pleats reduce the cuff width. Two x 1cm pleats will reduce cuff width to 19cm Draw cuff as extra to length. Optional to reduce sleeve length before cuff.

Measure BACK and FRONT neckline to make the collar.

Draw two rectangles for the collar stand and fall.

Collar fall needs to be 1cm higher than collar stand.

Raise collar fall 0.5cm at CB and taper to SP

CB – SP = back neck measurement Sp – CF = front neck measurement PLUS button stand/ placket

Raise stand 1cm at CF and taper to SP

Pattern – note down any special requirements – seams, fabric direction etc.

Comments/notes Flat Felled armhole, side and sleeve seam Topstitch all seams foot width - 0.7cm Front and back yoke cut on BIAS grain Pocket cut CROSS grain Cuff cut CROSS grain

GRAIN LINES – show direction to cut fabric. Flat felled seams = 1.5cm seam allowance

Number all pattern pieces. 1

Back Yoke

2

Centre Back

3

Side Back

4

Front Yoke

5

Centre Front

6

Side Front

7

Front Placket

8

Front Pocket

9

Front Pocket Flap

10

Collar Fall

11

Collar Stand

12

Sleeve

13

Sleeve Top Placket

14

Sleeve Under Placket

15

Sleeve Cuff

Back and collar pattern pieces 1

Back Yoke

2

Centre Back

3

Side Back

10

Collar Fall

11

Collar Stand

Front Pattern pieces

4

Front Yoke

5

Centre Front

6

Side Front

7

Front Placket

8

Front Pocket

9

Front Pocket Flap

Sleeve pattern pieces

12

Sleeve

13

Sleeve Top Placket

14

Sleeve Under Placket

15

Sleeve Cuff

1cm seam to Yoke. F and B

Back panel is cut on fold

1.5cm flat felled seam at the side and armhole

1cm panel seam

1.5cm hem

1cm neck and shoulder seam

1.5cm flat felled armhole seam

1cm neck and shoulder seam

Back yoke is CUT 2. One for inside, one for outside. 1cm seam at bottom of yoke

BIAS grain line B and F

1.5cm flat felled seam at the side and armhole

1cm panel seam

1.5cm hem

Front placket is cut 2. 1cm seam and 1.5cm hem

Pocket flap is folded in the centre. 1cm seam around all edges. Cut fusing (interfacing) to be ironed on the inside.

Pocket has 1cm seam allowance and a 2cm (1cm double turn) top edge.

Collar stand and fall are CUT 2 on the fold. And cut 1 interfacing to be ironed on the inside. 1cm seam around edges.

Sleeve has flat felled seams around sleeve head and side seams. 1.5cm allowance. Sleeve hem has 1cm to be attached to the cuff.

Top placket has 0.5cm seam down long edges and a folded top edge.

Under placket is folded 4 times finished width. Cut 2cm wide. Cuff is cut 4, 1cm seam around all edges. Cutting 2 in fusing to be ironed on the inside.

Fabric Recommendation – A type of Cotton is very suitable for shirts. Natural and easy to launder. Cotton blended with polyester is a typical high street shirt fabric.

Part 2A – Sewing a Shirt •  •  •  • 

Fabric Lay Chalk and cutting Sewing step by step Fitting

RIGHT side of fabric is always on the inside when you cut to protect it. Fold fabric in half and place against a straight edge (table edge)

Align fabric to edge of table. Smooth out all creases. Make sure the top layer sits perfectly over the under layer.

Iron out any creases before cutting

Lay ALL pattern pieces down at once, trying to cut out in the most cost effective way, using the least amount of fabric. WATCH the grain lines for placement in the correct way.

For pattern pieces cut on fold leave enough space for the other side.

Check and confirm all pattern pieces fit before chalking and cutting.

Record fabric consumption – 1m 25cm Useful if you want to make a second garment in a different fabric 

Once every pattern piece is chalked remove pattern pieces. Keep weights on top of fabric to hold it in place.

Cut out each pattern piece. Move yourself to reach all pieces, DO NOT move the fabric. Moving fabric can disturb the under layer and then it could be cut out wrong.

CUT up 3mm each notch. Be careful not to cut more. This is for 1cm seam allowance. Notches help you sew so don’t forget them!

Cut the line of the sleeve placket position.

Stripe shirt is now cut out and ready to sew. Referring to pattern pieces is not necessary as notches will show you how to sew each piece together. However for beginners keep the pattern pieces handy so you can double check which piece is sewn next to which piece. Part 2B – Sewing and fitting

A Technical Foundation, Women’s Wear Pattern Cutting · ISBN-10: 1849634718 · ISBN-13: 978-1849634717 Concept to Creation; The Design Process · ISBN-10: 1849635730 · ISBN-13: 978-1849635738 A Technical Foundation - Menswear Pattern Cutting · ISBN-10: 1784551236 · ISBN-13: 978-1784551230