A Basic Guide to Cosmetic & Toiletry Development John Woodruff
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
1
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding From concept toproduct productbriefs formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
2
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic? Understanding product briefs From concept to product formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
3
What is a cosmetic product? European Regulations specify 6 functions for cosmetic products, namely:
to perfume
to clean
to change the appearance
to protect
to keep in good condition
to correct body odours
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
4
To perfume
Perfume
Toilet waters Mists & sprays
Aromatherapy preparations
Bath additives
Shower gels
Deodorants
Body lotions
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
These should products not penetrate the skin but perfume compounds including essential oils may do so.
5
To clean
Soap
Syndet bars Bath additives Shower gels Cleansing emulsions Scrubs Cleansing masks
These products should not penetrate the skin but they do affect the skin surface (Stratum corneum – SC), they can remove skin lipids, affect skin barrier properties, increase cell turn - over, change
Shampoos
pH & cause loss of moisture
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
6
To change the appearance
Decorative cosmetics
Foundation creams Blushers Lipsticks & eye shadows Fake tans Cover fine lines & wrinkles
These products not penetrate theshould skin.
Plump out fine lines & wrinkles* Freeze facial muscles*
*These products need
DHA tanning* Skin lightening*
to penetrate the S.C.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
7
To protect
Sun protection Barrier creams Antiseptic washes Anti-oxidants* Protect immune system*
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
These products not penetrate theshould skin.
*These products need to penetrate the S.C.
8
To keep in good condition
Moisturise NMF = Urea, cholesterol,
Occlusive film Humectants NMF*
sodium lactate, lactic acid, amino acids, phospholipids, sodium PCa, water
Anti-oxidants* Support immune system* Plump out fine lines & wrinkles*
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
*Generally these products need to penetrate the S.C.
9
To correct body odours
Deodorants Antiperspirants Cleansing*
e.g.washing
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
These products not penetrate theshould skin. *These products may affect the S.C.
10
Field of application The field of application of cosmetics is to one or more of the following: the epidermis the hair system the nails the lips the external genital organs the teeth the mucous membranes of the oral cavity john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
11
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries Field of Application – anywhere visible, with or without swimming costumes
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
12
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic? Understanding product briefs From concept to product formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
13
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Brief
A clear concise document marketing department afterproduced extensiveby the market research with intended claims clearly defined.
Or
Woolly description full of pitfalls like “Natural” & “Organic” and claims changing as new ideas occur to srcinator.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
14
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Packaging
Already identified selected as the the ideal pack form to and contain and deliver product. Or
To be decided!
Usually after 2 months stability testing on a product with a quite unsuitable rheology for the final pack choice.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
15
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Bench Mark
An exciting & innovative product with clear functional benefits & with a similar selling price to the product required.
Or
Two or three totally different products, all 3x the selling price of the product required. Does the bench mark meet the product requirements? Claims, market niche, legislation?
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
16
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
The Time Table
A program agreed time between all concerned, allowing sufficient for formulation, testing and proceeding to manufacture via pilot scale batches.
Or
Marketing has a slot promised by a major store 5 months ahead. That is plenty of time surely!
Remember formulations can fail at any stage.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
17
Tip
Read the brief and also read between the lines:
If “natural” claims then reduce non-naturals to a minimum & no animal ingredients If “organic” avoid all proscribed ingredients
E.g. Ethoxylated materials Most preservatives / colours / minerals / petroleum-based materials etc.etc.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
18
Tip
Read the brief and also read between the lines:
If one customer, obey special requirements If for sensitive areas, mucous membranes etc. avoid unsuitable colours & preservatives
Mucous membranes
in the vicinity of the eyes on the lips in the oral cavity on the external genital organs
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
19
Tip
Read the brief and also read between the lines:
Identify target consumer
Young – greasy, acne
Old – mature, dry, sensitive, lacking radiance & resilience
Cleanse, tone & leave alone
Cleanse, desquamate, moisturise, cover up
Middle – combination skin
Protect & moisturise
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
20
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic?
Understanding product briefs
From concept to product formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
21
Sources of Information
Look at the bench mark & competitors products?
Do they deliver their claims? If so how?
cosmeticsdesign-europe.com Chemidex.com Cosmeticsbusiness.com Suppliers representatives & web sites Trade press & relevant articles Conference presentations Patent literature Text books
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
22
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic? Understanding product briefs From concept to product formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
23
The Regulations Ignore at your peril
EU 76/768/EEC – The 7 th Amendment
And all subsequent amendments
The Cosmetic Products (Safety) Regulations 2004 SI 2185
Customer-specific requirements
e.g. Boots GR-10
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
24
The Regulations
EU 76/768/EEC – The 7 th Amendment It lists those materials that cosmetics must not contain Those materials subject to restrictions in field of application and/or maximum allowed % A positive list of colours A positive list of antiperspirant materials A positive list of preservatives A positive list of UV absorbers
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
25
Mucous membranes Be aware
More prone to irritant reactions Restrictions on colours Restrictions on preservatives More stringent microbial rules Only ingestible products i.e.those with A.D.I., should be applied to the lips
Tip - match pH to area of application e.g. Eyes are 7+/- 0.2 / Skin is ~5.3
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
26
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic? Understanding product briefs From concept to product formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
27
Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries for the Global Marketplace
EU / USA / Japan / Brazil etc.
Each area has own regulations
Particularly affecting
Colours Preservatives Antiperspirants Sunscreens
Also Labelling
Names of ingredients
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
28
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic? Understanding product briefs From concept to product formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation Product stability & preservation
Example formulation techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
29
Cost effective formulation of Cosmetics & Toiletries
Start with current material inventory Don’t add cost without adding value Colin Hession
Keep it simple – but effective Look at methods of production
Process plant availability Heating costs / cooling costs / mixing costs / processing time costs
Fill using current machinery
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
30
Tip
Think commercially
Use materials that are already in current stock wherever possible Use laboratory mixing equipment which represents that available in the factory Think of the likely batch sizes
Can they be made with existing equipment?
If there is a problem can the formula be revised?
Can the product be filled with existing equipment?
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
31
Tips
Use laboratory mixing equipment which represents that available in the factory
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
32
Tips Use laboratory mixing equipment which represents that available in the factory
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
33
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
What is a cosmetic? Understanding product briefs From concept to product formulation
Sources of information EU cosmetic regulations The global marketplace Cost effective formulation
Product stability & preservation
Example formulation Techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
34
Stability and preservation of Cosmetics & Toiletries
Preservative choice affected by
Regulations Type of product
pH of product
Leave-on or Wash-off? pH < 6 / pH > 7
Other ingredients
Parabens inactivated by ethoxylates Phenoxyethanol thins many emulsions
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
35
Stability and preservation of Cosmetics & Toiletries
Stability checking is essential
Minimal requirements are stability testing at 4C / RT / 40C for 3 months plus light where applicable
45C used by some companies Freeze / thaw cycles Test in final packaging A product should remain stable for minimal 36 months at RT Continuing preservative efficacy over testing period is essential PAO = Period After Opening – depends on product type and packaging
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
36
Tip
Decide which preservatives can or cannot be used Talk to marketing. Talk to microbiologist
The choice could affect your product stability
Make selection of perfume a priority
Talk to marketing and talk to the supplier
The choice could affect your product stability
If possible incorporate these two items in development samples from the outset
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
37
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries Formulation Techniques
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
38
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Cosmetic functions
to perfume to clean
to change the appearance
to protect
to keep in good condition
to correct body odours
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
39
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Functional products are those for which a claim can be made, and which meet that claim.
They consist of the vehicle and the active ingredient(s).
The two parts must be compatible and the final product must be pleasant to use.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
40
Claims substantiation
All proposed claims and methods of substantiation should so be that agreed at the start of product development a clear justification of claims can be provided from controlled laboratory trials.
User trial results (responses from 50 people) or raw material data or a combination of the above can be used.
From Boots document to own label suppliers
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
41
Functional skin care
The vehicle and the active ingredient(s).
The two parts must be compatible and the final product must be pleasant to use.
Which comes first?
Depends on many factors
Product form Packaging Claim
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
42
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
To keep in good condition
Remove dead skin cells Protect from UV radiation
Support immune system
Protect from free radical species /ROS
Replace lost lipids Moisturise
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
43
A Basic Guide to Formulating Cosmetics & Toiletries
Narrowing the choice
Cost Supporting the claim
Check that claim support data is realistic and believable Will the product support the level of use on which claims data is based?
Compatibility with vehicle Compatibility with packaging Safety assessment Patent search
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
44
To keep in good condition
Remove dead skin cells
Wash
Scrub Tape stripping! Peels including enzymes e.g. Papain
Alpha hydroxy acids – AHAs
Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid
Fruit acids
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
45
AHAs: Selecting the active
Glycolic acid / citric acid / lactic acid / malic acid / salicylic acid
Proprietary mixtures e.g. Acifructol Complex ex Gattefosse
Aqua (Water)
Citric Acid
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract
Citrus Medica Limonum Extract
Lactic Acid
Malic Acid
Propylene Glycol
Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Extract
Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
46
AHAs: Safety & legal issues
The CIR Expert Panel concluded that glycolic and lactic Acid are safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations <10%, at final formulation pH >3.5 Boots recommendations
Glycolic acid must be less than 4% in formula and pH of final product must be > 3.8. Lactic acid must be less than 2.5% in formula and pH of final product must be > 5. If total AHAs are more than 4% then wording must appearuse on products pack recommending consumers with AHAs in conjunction with sunscreen products.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
47
AHAs: Selecting the active
Possible choice
Glycolic acid Plus proprietary mixture
Combines effectiveness with natural claims
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
48
AHAs: Designing the vehicle
Parameters
pH 4– 5 Electrolytes Low oil content Penetration required Possible forms
o/w emulsion foaming mousse light scrub
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
49
AHAs: Designing the vehicle
o/w emulsion
Emulsifier fortopH 4 –hydrolysis 5 Oil or estersuitable resistant acid Penetration enhancer ?
Balance efficacy against safety
Urea or ethoxydiglycol Or soften SC with emollients
Anti-irritation ingredient e.g. Bisabolol Perfume / Preservatives / Rheology modifier
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
50
AHAs: Possible formulation
3.00% 1.00%
Glyceryl stearate PEG-100 stearate
3.00% Caprylic / capric triglyceride 1.00% Paraffinum liquidum Aqua to 100% 0.05% Disodium EDTA 2.50% Glycolic acid 3.00% Mixed fruit acids 5.00% Ethoxydiglycol 0.50% Bisabolol 0.20% Xanthan gum Fragrance Preservatives e.g. Methyl + propyl paraben pH adjusted to 3.8 – 4.3
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
51
To keep in good condition
Protect from solar radiation
Why we should do so!
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
52
To keep in good condition
Protect from solar radiation
Sunscreen Actives
Organic screens
Less expensive Well known properties & technology But possible irritation Possibly unstable Product / pack interactions
Inorganic
Safe
Broad spectrum But whitening on skin Drag on application
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
53
UV Protect: Selecting the active
Dependent on
Required SPF Is UVA protection required? Intended market – legislation? Intended vehicle & pack form
Clear gel o/w emulsion w/o emulsion Oil Spray
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
54
UV Protect: Selecting the active
Possible answer
Organic UV absorber
plus inorganic dispersion
Not suitable for oil or clear gel
e.g. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate – UVB TiO2 dispersion in oil phase to extend UV protection into UVA or ZnO dispersion for increased UVA protection
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
55
UV Protect: Designing the vehicle Design parameters
pH
ZnO approx 8
Effect of inorganic dispersion aid Solubility of active Skin penetration not wanted Water-resistant Pleasant to apply
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
56
UV Protect: Possible formulation
3.00% 2.00%
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate Ethylhexyl Palmitate
5.00% Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 1.50% Dimethicone &/or cyclopentasiloxane 0.50% Potassium Cetyl Phosphate 12.50% Titanium Dioxide dispersion in oil 3.50% Cera Alba (Beeswax) 3.50% Sorbitan Palmitate Aqua (Water) to 100% 2.00% Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate 2.00% Magnesium Aluminum Silicate + silica 3.50% Polysorbate 20 0.30% Sodium Lactate Fragrance / Preservatives
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
57
To keep in good condition
Support immune system
Abstract USP 6,843,995
The invention relates to a cosmetic preparation containing an active complex comprised of an extract from truffles (Tuberaceae) in a cosmetically acceptable gel while being stabilized. A preferred active complex is one that additionally contains a champagne product. Cosmetic preparations containing this active complex lead to an improved stimulation of the immune system, an improved regenerative effect and thus to an improved balance in the ecosystem of the skin.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
58
Support immune system
Possible formulation
Truffles Champagne
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
59
To keep in good condition
Protect against free radicals
Anti- oxidants
Vitamin E - Tocopherol Vitamin C – Ascorbic acid & ascorbyl compounds Ferulic acid Superoxide dismutase BHT / BHA / Propyl gallate / Thio compounds Numerous plant extracts e.g. Lycopene from tomatoes Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) extract Camellia sinensis (Green tea) extract
Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract Rubus idaeus (Raspberry) leaf extract Salix nigra (Willow) bark extract
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
60
To keep in good condition
Replace lost lipids
As skin ages the ceramide content of the SC decreases. Ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids are effective in restoring lost lipids and the barrier functions of the skin. Ceramides AKA Sphingosines (9 identified) Fatty acid = linoleic acid particularly effective Together with cholesterol, lamella structures are formed, which penetrate upper SC.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
61
To keep in good condition
Moisturise
There is a water- gradient from the lower levels of the skin to its surface where it evaporates as transepidermal water loss (TEWL) There is a decrease in moisture content from the base layers to the surface (70%- >10%) As skin ages it loses more moisture but all skin may be subject to increased moisture loss through environmental conditions Moisturising is the basic requirement for nearly all skin care products
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
62
Moisturise
Select the active
The choice of moisturising ingredients is very wide Petrolatum & other oils & fats form an occlusive film, virtually preventing TEWL Lanolin has moisture holding properties and can penetrate upper SC
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
63
Moisturise
Select the active
Glycerin & other hygroscopicwith humectants attract water to themselves; more moisture on the skin there is a reduction in loss through evaporation Proteins hold moisture and are substantive to skin NMF duplicates the skin moisturising system Lamellar structures penetrate SC, restoring its natural barrier properties
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
64
Moisturise Narrowing the choice
The brief Target skin type & area of application Claims The cost Petrolatum / glycerin etc are cheap Ceramides / yeast ferments etc are expensive
Botanicals have consumer appeal
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
66
Moisturise Narrowing the choice
The pack form Spray / bottle / tube / jar The vehicle Gel / lotion / cream Other actives
Multi-functional
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
67
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a gel What thickening system?
Carbomers / cellulose / mineral / alginates? pH restraints? Clarity required?
Oils & Fragrance create problems Compatibility issues?
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
68
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a gel
What thickening system? Exposed to light? Photo-degradation Thinning and/or discolouration Preservative system?
Mixing requirements? Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
69
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
Select gel form
Carbomer
pH 5.5- 7.5 No electrolytes Water- soluble actives Chelate ions Protect against UV Cold mixing possible High shear not required
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
70
Moisturising gel
Carbomer based
Chelate + UV Absorber (EDTA2Na +B4) + Neutraliser (e.g. NaOH or TEA or AMP) + Preservative system (e.g. Parabens) Humectant (e.g. Glycerin or PG or Sorbitol) Active e.g.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice Hydrolysed wheat protein
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
71
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a lotion
What emulsifying system?
Anionic / cationic / non - ionic w/o or o/w or w/Si/w pH restraints? Compatibility issues? Fragrance / polar & non - polar oils Stability Preservative system? Mixing requirements Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
72
Moisturise
Narrowing the choice
If a cream
What emulsifying system?
Anionic / cationic / non - ionic w/o or o/w or w/Si/w pH restraints? Compatibility issues? Stability Use of hydrocolloid Preservative system? Mixing requirements Heating / cooling / high shear / slow mixing
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
73
Moisturising emulsions
Aqueous Phase Oil phase Emulsifier system Rheological modifier Preservative system Active ingredients Fragrance
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
74
Moisturising emulsions
Aqueous Phase Humectant / Moisturiser – CTFA makes no difference but JW thinks humectants as hygroscopic materials used as much to keepofthe product moist as for moisturising skin. Humectants Glycerin / Sorbitol / Propylene glycol / Polyethylene glycol (PEG) & various sugars Moisturisers Innumerable – 398 from Acetamide MEA to Zymomonas Ferment Extract in CTFA Dictionary, including sea water! Actives Most actives are water-soluble Preservative system
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
75
Oil Phase: Selecting the emoll ients: Cognis
Cascading theory means select a number of emollients so that the sensorial feel is spread throughout the time of application. Cosmetics should feel good!
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
76
Oil Phase: Selecting the emollients: Degussa surface tension [mN/m]
PP = pour point, CP = cloud point
33
No.I NCIName 1 2 3 4 5
20
32 9
31 30
7
29 3
28
4
5
6
8 12
17 13
10
21 23 24
14
11
18 15
19
2
caring, rich
27 26 25
light, light, fresh fresh
24 16
23 22
25 21
22
20 1
17 2
Decyl Cocoate EthylhexylPalmitate C12-15AlkylBenzoate EthylhexylStearate Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate CetylEthylhexanoate Decyl Oleate Cetearyl Isononanoate IsocetylPalmitate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Cetyl Dimethione PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Mineral Oil Octyldodecanol Avocado Oil
<-30 <-30 8 -11(-2) 14 16 1 -6 8 0 (2) -2(5) (4) -6 9 (12) 0 -4 14 (18) (3) 0 -19 -30 (-20) < -30
21 Dimethicone PPG-11 Stearyl Ether (-1) -11 22 0 (13) 23 PPG-14 Butyl Ether < -30 24 Triisostearin < -30 25 Cetyl Dimethione -5 Size of circles: proportional to spreadability
19 18
6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20
PP(CP)[°C]
Cyclopentasiloxane Diethylhexylcarbonate Isopropyl Myristate HexylLaurate IsopropylPalmitate
10
viscosity [mPas]
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
100
Color of circles:
polar
non-polar
77
Moisturising emulsions
Oil Phase
Watch out for
Rancidity Oil phase incompatibilities e.g.
Waxes crystallising Dimethicone / Mineral oil Melt & mix oil phase together; is it clear? Does it stay homogenous when cooled?
Dragging / greasiness / odours
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
78
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Anionic
o/w More commonly associated with cleansing surfactants SLS - irritant TEA-Stearate – OK for cleansers / not leave-on Potassium cetyl phosphate – forms liquid crystals, worth attention
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
79
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Cationic w/o
More commonly associated with hair conditioning Irritancy concerns However at least one material supplier is promoting their use with the following claims:
Cationic based on renewable materialsO/W with emulsifier excellent emulsifying propertiesraw
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
80
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Cationic Excellent emulsification behaviour Light emulsions, matte finish Powdery, smooth and dry skin feel after application Low greasiness, stickiness or tack Inherent moisturisation Substantive to skin Extraordinary and unique skin feel
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
81
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Non-ionic
o/w or w/o Selection using HLB system possible Sorbitan esters / ethoxylated pair
e.g. Sorbitan stearate / Polysorbate - 20
Alkoxylated alcohols
e.g. Ceteareth - 20
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
But move against ethoxylates!
82
Moisturising emulsions
What emulsifying system?
Recent introductions of sucrose esters and understanding the benefits of liquid crystal formation is driving new formulations
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
83
Moisturising emulsions
Benefits of liquid crystal formation
Water, fatty acids, cholesterol, triglycerides and ceramides form the lamellar (layered) gellike lipid system of the horny layer.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
84
Moisturising emulsions
Non-ionic liquid crystal forming emulsifiers
Cetearyl glucoside Cetearyl olivate / Sorbitan olivate Sucrose cocoate / Sorbitan stearate Sorbitan stearate / Sorbityl laurate Cetearyl polyglucoside Polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate Cetearyl polyglucoside / polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
85
Moisturising emulsions
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
86
Moisturising emulsions
Liquid crystals are states of matter that exist in between the solid and the ordinary liquid phase. The main characteristic of the phase is the existence of partial ordering (positional and orientational) like that of the crystal phase but the phase haslike thea ability to flow liquid.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
87
Moisturising emulsions
Oil Phase
Refer to Cognis cascading theory of emollients Degussa selection chart
Cyclopentasiloxane stops soaping up
Vegetable oils are polar (& popular)
Capric/caprylic triglyceride is good stuff
Cetyl or cetearyl alcohol and/or glyceryl stearate helps stabilise LC structures
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
88
Moisturising emulsions
Rheology modifier
Xanthan gum Minerals – e.g. Bentonite / Veegum / Laponite Carbomer Acrylates copolymer Sclerotium Gum Mannan Modified starch Gum tragacanth Alginates Silica Cellulose derivatives
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
89
Moisturising emulsions •Preservative system •Affected by other ingredients •pH •Market trends •Active ingredients •Affected by marketing claims •Other ingredients •pH •Fragrance •No Fragrance / Perfume / Essential Oils •Affected by named allergens john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
90
Moisturising emulsions: possible formulation
7.00% 2.50% 5.00%
Caprylic/capric triglyceride Cetearyl alcohol Prunus amygdalus dulcis (Sweet almond) oil
1.50% Cyclopentasiloxane 0.01% Ceramide 0.10% Tocopherol Aqua (Water) to 100% 0.08% Disodium EDTA 1.50% Cetearyl polyglucoside (emulsifier) 0.20% Xanthan gum 0.50% Niacinamide 5.00% Glycerin 1.00% Sodium PCa 3.00% Aloe barbadensis leaf juice 2.00% Punica granatum (Pomegranate) extract Preservatives / Fragrance / pH adjusters
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
91
DLC Question A major brand of moisturising lotion lists its ingredients as Aqua, Cetyl Palmitate, Glycerin, Paraffinum liquidum, Petrolatum, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Hydroxystearate, Stearic Acid, Steareth 100, Dimethicone, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragrance, Potassium Hydroxide, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Red 4. john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
92
DLC Question Claims are: Softens and smoothes for radiant skin.
Light, Non - Greasy Formula. Dermatologist Tested. Non - Comedogenic (Won't Clog Pores). Moisturizes- Penetrates quickly, providing your skin with immediate surge of active moisture to soothe dryness without greasy feel. Improves- Helps your skin replenish its own essential fluids so skin is softer, smoother and more supple.
Restoresthe essential abundant young skin Works to helplike restore skin to itsfluids natural beauty in and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
93
DLC Question
Using your knowledge of ingredients briefly the function of each ingredient in describe this product, give your best guess for the % by weight of the individual ingredients and in no more than 100 words write a label description of the properties of this product aimed to sell it to a consumer.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
94
DLC Question Aqua Cetyl Palmitate
Octyldodecyl Myristate Fragrance
Glycerin Paraffinum liquidum Petrolatum Cetyl Alcohol Glyceryl Hydroxystearate
Potassium Hydroxide DMDM Hydantoin Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate Tetrasodium EDTA Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Stearic Acid Steareth 100 Dimethicone
Acrylate Crosspolymer Carbomer Red 4
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
95
DLC Question
It is your task as head of product development to reformulate this product in order to make strong moisturising claims and to avoid using materials that are no longer perceived as appealing to consumers. There are no financial restraints on the material costs. Finally, list the reformulated product ingredients in descending order of concentration, show their approximate % in the new formula and rewrite the label copy to appeal to the target consumer.
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
96
If you get it right!
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
97
And if you get it wrong!
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
98
john.woodruff@creative-developments.co.uk
99