Con ontt en entt s & Cr edi t s
PAINTING GUIDE CREDITS
CONTENTS
Editor Richard Neale
Contributing Authors Adrian Walters, Walters, Brian Lasiewski, Richard Neale, Neale, Matthew Sprange, Ian Barstow
Figure Painting & Photography Adrian Walters Walters & Viktor Medora Medora
Introduction
2
Painting Your Mobile Infantry
3
Painting Your Warrior Bugs
5
Modelling Starship Troopers Terrain
7
Mobile Infantry Standard Bearer
14
Assembling your M8 Marauder
16
Painting your M8 Marauder
18
Assembling your Tanker Bug
21
Painting your Tanker Bug
22
The Plasma Bug
24
The XM-550 CHAS Unit
25
The Hopper Bug
26
The Reliant Weapons Platform
27
Proofreader
The Brain Bug
28
Ted Chang
WASP Troopers
29
Catalogue
30
Terrain Sculptors Jesse Chen, Earl Hollembaek, Dean Hollembaek, Jason Smyrloglou, Adam Redman, Troy Troy Arbogast, Colin Cambell, Jason Davis, Jamie Leutz, Sam Dean, Rich Gentile, Matt Liddic, William Zhu, Robert E Dundency, Mike Eichner, Nick Barry, Nick Payne, Micheal Salzman, Kevin Sanchez, Daniel Wakabayashi, Geremy Bambakakis, Ted Hallock, Doug Graves, Russ Wakelin, Doug Brecher, Lenny Caira, Jonathan Reinhart, Rob Burke, Burke, Brian Lasiewski.
Miniatures Manager Ian Barstow
Production Director Alexander Fennell
Special Thanks Jan Bakston, Richard Ford, Ford, Dick Swansong Swansong
Pictures Inc. All Rights Reserved. Starship Troopers: The Miniatures Game TM & (C) 2005 TriStar Pictures Mongoose Publishing Publishing Ltd. Authorised User. User. Reproduction of any part of this work by any means without the written permission of the publisher is expressly forbidden. Printed in China. - 1 -
Con ontt en entt s & Cr edi t s
PAINTING GUIDE CREDITS
CONTENTS
Editor Richard Neale
Contributing Authors Adrian Walters, Walters, Brian Lasiewski, Richard Neale, Neale, Matthew Sprange, Ian Barstow
Figure Painting & Photography Adrian Walters Walters & Viktor Medora Medora
Introduction
2
Painting Your Mobile Infantry
3
Painting Your Warrior Bugs
5
Modelling Starship Troopers Terrain
7
Mobile Infantry Standard Bearer
14
Assembling your M8 Marauder
16
Painting your M8 Marauder
18
Assembling your Tanker Bug
21
Painting your Tanker Bug
22
The Plasma Bug
24
The XM-550 CHAS Unit
25
The Hopper Bug
26
The Reliant Weapons Platform
27
Proofreader
The Brain Bug
28
Ted Chang
WASP Troopers
29
Catalogue
30
Terrain Sculptors Jesse Chen, Earl Hollembaek, Dean Hollembaek, Jason Smyrloglou, Adam Redman, Troy Troy Arbogast, Colin Cambell, Jason Davis, Jamie Leutz, Sam Dean, Rich Gentile, Matt Liddic, William Zhu, Robert E Dundency, Mike Eichner, Nick Barry, Nick Payne, Micheal Salzman, Kevin Sanchez, Daniel Wakabayashi, Geremy Bambakakis, Ted Hallock, Doug Graves, Russ Wakelin, Doug Brecher, Lenny Caira, Jonathan Reinhart, Rob Burke, Burke, Brian Lasiewski.
Miniatures Manager Ian Barstow
Production Director Alexander Fennell
Special Thanks Jan Bakston, Richard Ford, Ford, Dick Swansong Swansong
Pictures Inc. All Rights Reserved. Starship Troopers: The Miniatures Game TM & (C) 2005 TriStar Pictures Mongoose Publishing Publishing Ltd. Authorised User. User. Reproduction of any part of this work by any means without the written permission of the publisher is expressly forbidden. Printed in China. - 1 -
I nt r oduc t i on
INTRODUCTION
W
elcome to the Starship Troopers Miniatures Game Painting and Modelling Modelling Guide. Within the pages pages of this book you will find loads of handy hints and guides on how to make and paint our exciting range of Starship Troopers miniatures along with tips on constructing scenery to make your games really look like they are taking place on another planet. Mongoose brush maestro Adrian Walters takes you through building and painting an M8 Ape Marauder suit and the hulking tanker bug, as well as looking at the more familiar Mobile Infantry Cap Trooper and Arachnid warrior bug. bug. If you ever wanted to know know how one of the very top professionals goes about his business now is your chance! with colour pictures showing you how to get the very best out of your gaming. From now on you will find yourself hoarding old boxes, polystyrene and a hundred other osbcure items, knowing that together they will make up a great new piece of terrain. You You can also get fantastic ideas by logging on to the forums at www.mongoosepublishing.com where other gamers share their experiences and tips. It’s It’s always worth a visit!
NCO rank stripes by Adrian Walters, Walters, showing what a steady hand can achieve!
Marketing manager Brian Lasiewski takes an in-depth look at what it took to put together the stunning display terrain that the Mongoose Infantry teams take to gaming conventions, and shows just how easy it is to replicate the magic. Brian also also has advice on starting your own Terrain Club and what you can achieve with the help of a few friends. Matthew Sprange also has a new Heroic Trait rule for Mobile Infantry standard bearers and Adrian shows how easy it is to convert one if you don’t have one of our cracking limited edition miniatures. mi niatures. With full page photo features on models like the brain bug and Reliant Gun Platforms, this guide is packed - 2 -
Mobile Infantry conversion conversion and paint job by Piers Brand Brand
Pai nt i ng your Mobi l e I nf ant r y
PAINTING YOUR MOBILE INFANTRY 1
2
1. It is always best to remove all the moulding lines from your models, the finished results will look much better. The lines are best removed using a hobby knife by gently scraping them away. The model is then primed with a black acrylic spray undercoat. You’re now ready to paint.
3
What You Will Need:
2. Paint the face completely in Orc Flesh. Try to be as neat as possible, do not worry if you make a mistake; acrylic paint dries quickly and can easily be painted over to cover any slips of the brush.
4
3. On all the raised areas like the nose, top lip and cheeks use the lighter Ghoul Flesh. At this stage should you want to you can add some eyes. Paint the eye area Dragon Black first, put a line of Dragon White across the eyeball, then a spot of Dragon Black to simulate the pupil.
4. Paint all the areas you want in Angel Green. In this example all of the armour plates and helmet have been painted Angel Green but the undersuit has been left black. Don’t worry too much at this stage if you get paint over bits that you wanted to be left black.
Top Tip: Thinning Your Paints Nearly all acrylic paints are too thick straight from the pot or tube.
Water should be added so the paint
flows from the brush avoiding a lumpy finish, however by adding too much it will make the paint too watery. Experiment with the amount of water you add to get the right consistency. Two or three thin coats of paint always look better than one thick one.
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Paint brush, preferably a size 0 or ‘fine detail’ brush. Hobby knife. Acrylic hobby paint (all from the excellent Testors range: Dragon Black, Dragon White, Orc Flesh, Ghoul Flesh, Angel Green, Slime Green, Carrion Green, Djinni Grey, Gunmetal, Shiny Gold). Cynoacrylate (superglue). You may also use plastic cement. Kitchen towel. Construction
Choose the right arm that you want and superglue it onto the model’s weapon of choice. In most cases, this is the Morita rifle. Next, match up the gun/arm assembly to the torso. The left arm comes next – offer it up to the torso and the weapon. Make sure it’s in the right position and then add glue. Pose the helmet and fix in place. Then add the backpack (nozzles pointing downwards) and finally the shoulder pads. The entire top half of the model is now done (except the faceplate). Pose the top half assembly on the legs (assembling them if they are the kneeling pose legs) and fix in place. The thigh plates locate to the two lugs moulded onto the torso and rest on the thighs. The crotch plate similarly locates to the recess in the middle of the torso bottom edge. The backside plate should locate at the rear of the torso moulding. With all these elements attached, all it takes to complete the M.I. Cap Trooper model is to paint it and attach the faceplate.
Pai nt i ng your Mobi l e I nf ant r y
5
5. Now paint the parts already Angel Green with Slime Green. However all the creases, seams and gaps in the armour should be left Angel Green. Being very very neat at this point will give the best results, the darker green left in the cracks and creases will give the illusion of shading to the model enhancing the details.
6
7
6. You can add a further layer of Carrion Green now should you wish. This is known as highlighting. Add these to edges and to areas that logically would catch the light, adding a further illusion of depth and picking out the details even more.
7. With Dragon Black pick out all the parts you wish to be black. This will help to neaten the edges of the green as well.
10
9
8
8. Now highlight the black bits with a Djinni Grey.
9. Paint the gun and small details in Gunmetal.
10. Paint the visor/peak in Shiny Gold.
Top Tip: Painting Metallic Surfaces Metallic paints always look better if the area is painted black first.
Once the surface
has been painted, thin either some Dragon Black for silvery surfaces, or Burnt Brown for golden surfaces to a watery consistency and paint it over the metallic surface.
The watery
paint will run into the details giving the illusion of shading.
11
11. CAREFULLY glue the clear yellow visor in place, this is best done by applying TINY specks of glue to each pointed edge.
12
12
12. Basing. To finish off your model glue some sand to the base using PVA glue. This can then be painted in the colours of your choice. We have gone for a brown ‘desert’ style. First the sand was painted in brown, then when the brown was completely dry a lighter brown was very lightly brushed over to give a highlight using the sand itself to bring out the texture. Job done! - 4 -
Pai nt i ng your War r i or Bugs
PAINTING YOUR WARRIOR BUGS 1
What You Will Need :
1. Heavily drybrush the whole model with Hobgoblin Grey.
Paint brush, preferably a size 0 or ‘fine detail’ brush. Hobby knife. Acrylic hobby paint (all from the excellent Testors range: Dragon Black, Hobgoblin Grey, Dinosaur Grey, Djinni Grey, Lizard Brown, Bear Brown, Sol Yellow, Dragon Red, Bloode Red). Cynoacrylate (superglue). You may also use plastic cement. Kitchen towel. Construction
First, carefully remove all of the moulding lines from the model parts – the finished results will look much better this way. The lines are best gently scraped away with a sharp hobby knife.
2
Assemble the model by first gluing the legs to the bottom of the torso, ensuring the legs are suitably positioned, then glue on the top half of the torso. Next glue the top and bottom jaws to the head section and attach it to the leg assembly. The palpus (the small claws that attach to the head) can be added now or later. 2. Using Dinosaur Grey drybrush again, but this time not so heavily, leave some of the Hobgoblin Grey showing, concentrate on the joint areas.
The entire model is now sprayed with an Acrylic Black undercoat.
Top Tip: Drybrushing The first three stages of painting require a technique called ‘Drybrushing’, don’t be alarmed, it’s very simple: Using a Flat brush or Drybrush, load it with paint (thick paint, straight from the pot is best) then wipe most of it off onto a kitchen towel.
By passing the brush over the model, any raised areas will be picked out.
The heavier you press with the brush the more paint will be applied.
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Pai nt i ng your War r i or Bugs
3
4
3. Now use the lightest grey; Djinni Grey. Again drybrush even lighter. Concentrate just on the edges and upper parts of things. You now know how to drybrush!
4. Using Lizard Brown paint on patches simulating the yellow patterns.
5
6
5. Using Bear Brown paint the raised areas that are Lizard Brown. Be careful to leave Lizard Brown in the deeper recesses this gives the illusion of depth.
6. Highlight the highest of the raised areas (which are now Bear Brown…) with Sol Yellow.
7
8
7. Add the bugs red markings now (the colour scheme used in the Starship Troopers film has been used here). Paint these in Dragon Red.
8. Now paint the edges and raised areas of the Dragon Red in Bloode Red.
- 6 -
Model l i ng Ter r ai n
MODELLING STARSHIP TROOPERS TERRAIN Modelling
terrain
for your miniatures
games can bring new levels of enjoyment to the hobby and enhance your overall gaming experience. In August of 2005, volunteers of the Mongoose Infantry, including several members of the Terrain Club at Danger Planet Games and Hobbies (a Mongoose Infantry retail demo team store) designed and built several amazing tables and terrain features to serve as the backdrop for our Starship Troopers tournament at that year’s Gen Con gaming convention in Indianapolis. Since unveiling, this terrain has appeared in several reviews, articles and forums across the Internet and we have received countless requests for information asking how it was constructed. As promised, we now present you with some of the method behind our madness. In the following pages you will discover not only the process by which this terrain was constructed but also the inspiration and considerations that carried it to completion.
A WHOLE GALAXY TO CHOOSE FROM The Milky Way galaxy consists of about 200 billion stars, many with systems of planets orbiting around them. This provides a staggering array of terrain modelling possibilities for your games of Starship Troopers. With numerous established references to draw ideas from including the novel, movies and television series, settings such as the frigid wastes of Pluto, the aquatic expanse of Hydora or the
hostile deserts of Klendathu are by now familiar to many Starship Troopers fans as staples of the ever-expanding Starship Troopers universe. We sought to continue this expansion by basing the development of our Gen Con tables on settings defined in Book One of the Blaze of Glory graphic novel series by Mongoose Publishing. Six new tables were designed for this project and Blaze of Glory presented us with a wealth of material from which to draw inspiration. The tables would be thematically linked to each other by the inclusion of prominent key terrain features, such as the Alamar Bay defensive perimeter wall, the wreckage of the Normandy Beach starship, and others suggested by the graphic novel. Recurring secondary terrain elements, such as hills and rock formations, would further reinforce the overall presentation of these tables. To get us started, we needed to identify and decide what our prominent and secondary terrain features would be. After some brainstorming, we settled on the final themes for each individual table. The first would prominently feature the Alamar Bay Research Station defensive wall. The second and third tables would be themed around a debris field created by the wreckage of the Normandy Beach. The fourth table would depict a battle scene. The fifth table would feature prominent peaks and valleys, while the sixth and final table would serve as a generic desert.
Ultimately we decided to build our tables in two-foot by four-foot (60cm x 120cm) sections that could be laid side by side.
Each table is coated with textured wall paint to produce a sandy, ground-like appearance. - 7 -
Model l i ng Ter r ai n Regardless of what the key terrain elements would be on a particular table, thanks to the hills and rock formations, each table would appear to be part of the same planet. The rocks themselves were constructed of wo od bark chips typically used in landscaping or gardening. One-eighth of an inch (0.5cm) marker board was cut, shaped and used as the bases for the rocks. Terrain Club members had a great deal of fun coming up with various arrangements for the rocks. Whether standing on edge, lying flat or stacked into arches, each member of the club contributed their own unique style to the overall assembly process. From the very beginning it was decided that the terrain features on each of the tables would not be static. By designing the terrain to be mobile a much wider variety of battlefield conditions could be configured for future games. Therefore, none of the hills or rock formations were permanently connected to the table surface.
REMEMBER THE ALAMO These unusual rocks formations were constructed using bark chips typically used in landscaping or gardening.
FROM THE GROUND UP Before designing any terrain, the first thing to consider is the table surface itself. Realising that we had to transport six tables, we needed to make them reasonably portable. A single four-foot by six-foot (120cm x 180cm) board would be difficult to manage, let alone six of them. Ultimately we decided to build our tables in two-foot by four-foot (60cm x 120cm) sections that could be laid side by side. These sections were made of three-quarter inch (1.5cm) MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard) and ultimately coated with textured wall paint to produce a sandy ground-like terrain.
The Alamar Bay research station was renamed ‘Alamo Bay’ by the Mobile Infantry troopers stationed there after being surrounded by an advancing Arachnid horde with no avenue of retreat. Being that the bulk of the installation was built into a mountainside we opted to focus our efforts on the defensive perimeter wall. The scale of the model was determined following careful measurements of the structure as seen in the graphic novel when compared in reference to featured Mobile Infantry troopers. Once the scale was determined a floor plan was drafted to serve as a construction blueprint. Despite adding complexity to the design, it was decided that the wall would be constructed in modular four-inch (1.2cm) sections. Structure points could be assigned to each module, allowing for breaches in the wall to be created during game play.
Once the playing surface was underway, we began construction of the secondary elements of terrain while the key elements were being planned. These secondary elements included hills and rock formations. Hills were constructed out of ‘pink foam’ (extruded polyethylene, originally used as rigid insulation in construction) of various thicknesses. A serrated steak knife was used to chisel the edges to make them look more like rock. Texture paint was applied to the tops to make them appear consistent with the main table surface. The rock formations were intended to be a design element that would visually unify all of the tables in the tournament. - 8 -
The visually arresting front gate of the Alamar Bay research station.
Model l i ng Ter r ai n
The completed perimeter wall.
Additionally, the modular nature of the wall allows it to be employed in a variety of configurations and still be easy to store.
The Terrain Club’s tables groan under the weight of the contributed parts for our new terrain, meanwhile Jason Davis and Earl Hollembaek inspect the parts seeking inspiration for the wreck of the Normandy Beach starship.
Each module of the wall was based on a frame constructed of one-eighth of an inch (0.5cm) marker board. Polystyrene (a.k.a. ‘plasti-card’) sheets were cut, shaped, and used to create the wall textures, including each rivet which were individually punched and placed. This can seriously try anyone’s patience but looks really great in the end. Polystyrene sheets can be found at hobby shops and are available in a wide variety of thicknesses and textures. Sheets moulded with a diamond tread-plate pattern, for example, were used to create the walkway along the wall’s top edge. The most visually arresting component of the defensive perimeter wall is the front gate. The gate module was designed as a single piece measuring approximately twelve inches (30cm) in length. Wall pieces were borrowed from a RoboTech Factory kit to become the gate doors themselves. Never underestimate the potential contributions that your old toys and models can make to your modelling efforts!
It did not take long before our ideas took shape and the wreckage started taking on a life of its own, with club members adding their own personal touches every time they visited the workshop.
THE NORMANDY BEACH In Blaze of Glory , The Normandy Beach starship becomes seriously damaged before falling from orbit onto t he surface of the planet below. Although it had been agreed upon in the earliest days of the project that the wreckage from the Normandy Beach would serve as the key terrain element on at least one of the tables, the challenge remained to visualise the model. No one in the club had a good feeling of what our models would look like. The thinking was that because the ship was so large, the wreckage from its crash would not be contained within - 9 -
Model l i ng Ter r ai n the confines of a single table. Furthermore, the sum of the debris would not comprise the complete ship. This would imply that the ship, when whole, was truly massive and that there would be even more wreckage to be found elsewhere off-table. An additional challenge was that the wreckage needed to be designed in such a way so as to be playable. If the surface of the ship were built too irregularly models would not be able to stand upon it. If pieces of the wreckage were constructed in too large a scale then they could severely limit line of sight across the table top and unbalance the game.
The Terrain Club’s Jesse Chen begins the labourious task of painting the completed cargo pod, another piece of wreckage terrain from the Normandy Beach starship.
As Gen Con loomed ever closer, the workshop became a hive of activity as everyone did their part to make sure we had our terrain finished in time. The wreckage of the Normandy Beach is already starting to look magnificent. even in this unfinished state.
Members of the creative team scoured their attics, basements, and boxes of random toys and model parts to find possible components of the wreckage. We were looking for anything that would ignite the creative spark that would give us the look and feel of our ship. While on a trip to an area toy store the ultimate solution was discovered in two toys which had been marked down for clearance. We had found our ‘spark’, and at a discount to boot! The first toy to contribute to our visualisation was the Justice League Watchtower play set by Mattel. The creative team decided that the components of this play set would form the main structural elements of the wreckage. To provide for added flexibility the Terrain Club purchased two of these toys. Creative direction was offered by several members of the club over the duration of the project. For days, pieces were strewn out over one of the group’s work tables and assembled intermittently by several members of the team in a relatively freely evolving process. It seemed that each day we would arrive to work on the ship to find that another club member had added something new since our last visit. The second main component to the wreckage was three Voice Vault toys by Off Limits. This toy was intended to serve as a secure storage device for kids to keep their stuff, not unlike a safe. The Voice Vault comes standard with a rolling door consistent with the look and feel of a sci-fi cargo bay door. We were taken with this aspect immediately. Play-wise, this terrain would allow for units to be deployed in secret prior to the start of a scenario to serve as surprise reserves. Finding new ways to present players with unexpected challenges and surprise game elements has become a signature of the Terrain Club’s handiwork. According to its original design, the Voice Vault door is voice activated (hence its name). The club considered incorporating this functionality into its plans by having the terrain respond to thematic exclamations such as ‘C’mon you Apes!’, or something equally in the spirit of the game.
- 10 -
Model l i ng Ter r ai n
We arrive at Gen Con ‘05 and set up our gaming tables. Here are some close ups of the completed Normady Beach wreckage at that show. (from the top left – the severed cargo pod (closed), the severed cargo pod could reveal a nasty surpise when its doors are opened, one of the Normandy Beach’s engines, the cargo pod assembly makes an impressive centrepiece to the table, the cargo pod assembly’s doors still work, despite a catastrophic atmospheric re-entry and finally, the complete Normandy Beach table.
- 11 -
Model l i ng Ter r ai n In consideration of the eventual painting process, which would involve multiple washes and spray paint effects, it was judged that the chances of the electronics surviving the process intact were unreliable. As a result, the original latch mechanism was removed and replaced with a small magnet allowing for manual control over the doors. The parts from the original locking mechanisms were saved and access to the battery compartment was maintained on two of the three vaults. One of these days we will get around to testing the electronics and finding out if they still work. With our art direction settled, pieces and arrangements of wreckage of varying scales were designed. After the structural framework of these pieces was created, affixing extra parts, texture and details from our spare parts boxes embellished them. Thus, the wreckage of the Normandy Beach incorporates such notable elements as pieces of a Matrix Sentinel, an Apollo lunar module and capsule, and other toys and parts donated by members of the team and local gaming community. Once completed, each piece of the wreckage terrain was mounted to a marker board base and ground texture was applied.
SETTING THE SCENE One of the most effective ways to keep your terrain firmly grounded in the setting of the game is to incorporate models, or pieces of models, from the game itself in your terrain designs. Recalling a particularly exciting multi-player game resulting in heaps of casualties, we decided that one of the tables for Gen Con absolutely had to feature the remains of a large-scale battle. Starship Troopers excels at demonstrating the effectiveness of combined arms of all scales in its engagements, from the basic side arm all the way up to strategic nuclear weapons. During the game mentioned above, the effectiveness of
The completed blast crater.
the M-997 Firestorm bomb was demonstrated with such brutal clarity that the club constructed four bomb craters to depict the scale of the destruction that these weapons can deliver. By littering the table with other remnants of a past or ongoing engagement, the feel of a Starship Troopers battle can be conveyed before any of your models are even set up on it. Based on marker board, the sides of the bomb craters were built up into shape with pink foam. Arachnid warrior model pieces (including lots of extra legs) were placed into the bottom of the craters as casualties. They were coated with a thin layer of PVA glue and sand to give them a rough texture that would suggest charring when we painted them later. Finally, a mixture of PVA glue, sand and water was applied to the craters themselves to provide ground texture and make the casualties appear partially buried. The bugs are not the only ones to suffer losses during engagements. Mobile Infantry who are not ‘on the bounce’ typically end up buying a farm in a hurry. With this in mind, the Terrain Club assembled over a dozen depictions of SICON casualties. Lost weapon teams, brain bug victims and even a destroyed Chickenhawk and its crew were among the fallen the club constructed.
PAINTING
The blast crater takes shape.
Our terrain was painted using a desert-themed palette of browns, reds and oranges. The goal was to create a desert look for our tables that had some colour to it and would contrast, but not overpower, any of the models placed upon them. Although the palette selected may at first glance seem limited, it actually possesses a subtle depth. For example, there were four shades of brown used to paint the table surfaces and hills, each applied in successively lighter
- 12 -
Model l i ng Ter r ai n
As Gen Con ‘05 got under way, all of our hard work had come to fruition, with hundreds of people enjoying their games of Starship Troopers on the tables we had created. Their job done, the Terrain Club were able to sit back and enjoy a few games and soak up the praise of the many people who saw their work and think ahead to what they could create for next year’s show!
blends. Not all paint schemes need be this complicated. Select your paints and have fun with them! For the club, after going through all of that work to blend each shade of brown it would be a shame if the table surface were to become nicked or chipped during play. To give the paint some added protection we applied a sealing coat of varnish after the coats of paint had dried. Varnish is great for lending additional backbone but it also has the unfortunate added side effect of giving the table a glossy appearance. When the varnish was dry the club applied a clear matt spray to the tables to remove this unwanted sheen.
START YOUR OWN TERRAIN CLUB There are a number of valuable resources readily available to support you as your Starship Troopers hobby expands to include terrain building. For starters, look out of your
window. There is terrain everywhere! Pick several aspects of what you see that you find most interesting and try building it. Suggestions regarding how to start and manage your project can be found in many hobby magazines and reference books such as this one. The internet is also a fantastic tool for finding inspiration and direction. Some of the best resources of all are your fellow hobbyists. They can be reached online or closer to home in your local games and hobbies store. Founding your own terrain club can start with a single forum post or handshake. It’s easy! The club that brought you the terrain documented in this article started with three people meeting once a week. Over time, the list of club members and other contributors to this project has grown to include over 25 others.
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Mobi l e I nf ant r y St andar d Bear er
MOBILE INFANTRY STANDARD BEARER NEW HEROIC TRAIT Standard Bearer ( +25 points) Highly trained NCOs (often called Colour Sergeants) or veteran troopers are sometimes accorded the honour of carrying the platoon’s or company’s banner into battle, dedicating themselves to keeping it out of the hands of the enemy. On the battlefield, a standard serves as a rallying point, letting troopers know where to retreat to when things go wrong. The standard bearer functions as a mobile Retrieval Point (see page 69 of the main rulebook, page 79 of the hardback), allowing out of command models to take Move actions towards it.
Permission Granted To Photocopy For Personal Use.
- 14 -
Mobi l e I nf ant r y St andar d Bear er
PATHFINDERS !
LEADING THE WAY TO VICTORY! - 15 -
As s embl i ng Your M8 Mar auder
ASSEMBLING YOUR M8 MARAUDER What You Will Need:
Hobby knife or scalpel, modelling files or fine sandpaper and Cynoacrylate or superglue (you may prefer to use plastic cement). While not essential, you may also need a small quantity of model filler to fill any minor gaps in the kit’s construction.
5. Take the two halves of the lower arms (an outer and an inner) for both arms, six ‘fingers’ (three for each hand) and the two pre-assembled shoulders. Glue the fingers into the holes, attach the lower inner arm and glue the shoulders into the arms.
1. I have removed all the parts from the sprue and cleaned off all the mould lines using a Hobby knife and a file. I opted to remove all the parts at this stage; you can leave the parts on the sprue until they are required, then you won’t lose any of the small bits. 3. Take the two shoulder pieces, two connectors and two pins. Assemble the joints as in Step 2. Do not use glue on the pin or joint.
2. Take the hip, two ‘connectors’ and two pins. Assemble by putting together and pushing the pins in to secure. Do not use glue on the pin or joint.
4. Take the two outer leg pieces, two inner leg pieces and two feet. Glue the two halves of each leg together and glue on the foot. Note that the feet will only attach to their respective legs. - 16 -
6. Glue the pilot into the rear of the body. He attaches to the peg inside that protrudes from the back. Note. You may wish to leave the driver out at this stage to facilitate easier painting later.
As s embl i ng Your M8 Mar auder
7. Take the front and back body sections and the completed hip assembly. Sandwich the hip section between the two halves of the body and glue.
8. Glue the Y-rack and minigun to the completed body section. Note that the clear plastic screen and the safety cage have been left off for easier painting.
9. The arms are clipped onto the body section’s ball joints which allow for full movement; you may want to leave them off at this stage though to make painting easier. The legs can now be simply glued to the hip joints before the completed model is glued to the base. When you are happy with the pose, glue the joints together. If you want the model to remain poseable apply small amounts of glue to the ends of the securing pins to fix them in the joint, being very careful not to get glue in the joint itself. - 17 -
Pai nt i ng Your M8 Mar auder
PAINTING YOUR M8 MARAUDER Fig. 2
What You Will Need:
Large Drybrush, Paint brush, preferably a size 0 or ‘fine detail’ brush, PVA glue, Sand or flock, Acrylic hobby paint (all from the excellent Testors range: Dragon Black, Angel Green, Slime Green, Carrion Green, Hobgoblin Grey, Gunmetal, Flesh), Kitchen towel.
Fig. 1
2. Paint all of the Marauder’s exposed motive parts using Gunmetal, these include the model’s hip and shoulder joints, the knees and the Marauder’s ankle assemblies (see Fig. 2 and Fig. 2a).
Fig. 2a 1. Undercoat the entire model in Dragon Black. To ensure the best results, it is always best to undercoat or prime the assembled Marauder using black acrylic spray paint, touching up any areas that have been missed by hand (see Fig. 1). A solid black undercoat provides the best surface on which to lay the other colours we will be using for this model. You may find that you have to touch up the undercoat by hand using Dragon Black as the coverage given by spray cans is not always complete.
Top Tip: Paint With Care Neatness is the key word in painting your models.
Take your time and the
results will speak for themselves.
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Pai nt i ng Your M8 Mar auder Fig. 3
Fig. 4
3. With the exposed machinery painted, make a mixture of Dragon Black and water. Add the water to the mixture slowly. What you are looking for is a thin mixture with the paint fluid enough to run into the gaps of the model but not so thick that it alters the base colour too much. Paint this mixture over the exposed motive parts (see Fig. 3).
4. Once the thinned paint has dried, paint all of the Marauder’s armoured panels using Angel Green (see Fig. 4).
Fig. 6
Fig. 5
5. Make a 50/50 mix of Dragon Black and Angel Green. Thin this mixture in a similar fashion to the wash used above. Now CAREFULLY paint the mixture into all the panel lines and corners. This technique is similar to using a wash but is much more controlled and direct (see Fig. 5).
6. Ensuring that the paint is dry, drybrush the Angel Green armoured plates of the M8 in Slime Green. Note in the photograph how more paint has been deposited on the upward facing surfaces simply by drawing the brush across the model in only one direction (see Fig. 6).
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Pai nt i ng Your M8 Mar auder Fig. 7
Fig. 8
7. Concentrating on the edges of the armour plates, drybrush the model in Carrion Green (see Fig. 7).
8. The driver was painted exactly the same way as detailed on page 3. The fingers and the guns were painted in Gunmetal and given a wash, just as in Step 3. The extremities of the model are painted last so that the paint will not be rubbed off while handling the model. Personalised markings can also be added at this time (see Fig. 8).
Fig. 10
Fig. 9
9. Battle damage is an easy but very effective final touch to add to your models. Using Dinosaur Grey, paint on random patches where the paint has been chipped away. Place these logically; on the model’s edges, corners and the extremities.
10. Using Gunmetal, fill in the patches of Dinosaur Grey, being careful to leave some grey showing at the edges to simulate the flaking and chipping of the primer coat. As you can see, the finished result is very bold and effective (see Fig. 10). Use PVA to glue sand to the base and paint to your preference.
- 20 -
As s embl i ng your Tamker Bug
ASSEMBLING YOUR TANKER BUG What You Will Need:
Hobby knife or scalpel, modelling files or fine sandpaper and Cynoacrylate or superglue (you may prefer to use plastic cement). While not essential, you may also need a small quantity of model filler to fill any minor gaps in the kit’s construction.
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
1. Remove all the parts from the sprue and remove all the moulding lines. This is best done by either filing with a modelling file or scraping off with a hobby knife (see Fig 1).
2. Glue the two parts of the upper carapace together, making sure that both ends line up (see Fig. 2). Do this first so the glue is fully set before getting to Step 5.
3. Glue the head parts together (see Fig 3).
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
Fig. 6
4. Take the two parts of the thorax and assemble on their location pins but do not glue yet. The two parts of the thorax are now joined but will allow you to push the head assembly and the upper parts of the legs into place (see Fig. 4). Apply glue to the thorax and head joins only DO NOT GLUE THE LEGS AT THE MOMENT.
5. Take the bottom half of the abdomen and glue the small legs to it – note that the legs get smaller as they near the back of the bug (see Fig. 5). Next, take the bottom assembly with the eight legs and the upper carapace (from step 1) and sandwich the thorax ball joint in it. Glue the abdomen parts together but avoid getting glue in the ball joint. - 21 -
6. Using the small dumb-bell shaped pieces attach the feet to the lower legs, DO NOT GLUE THE FEET AT THE MOMENT. The legs and abdomen can now be posed as you wish – it is best to glue the abdomen into place first. Then position the legs and glue all joints in place, not forgetting the leg to thorax joint (see Fig. 6).
Pai nt i ng your Tanker Bug
PAINTING YOUR TANKER BUG Fig. 3
What You Will Need:
Large Drybrush, Paint brush, preferably a size 0 (‘fine detail’or 1 (‘detail’) brush, Acrylic hobby paint (all from the excellent Testors range: Dragon Black, Phthalo Blue, Royal Blue, Falcon Turquoise, Hobgoblin Grey, Dinosaur Grey, Djinni Grey, Marine Blue, Troll Green, Bloode Red), Kitchen towel.
Fig. 1 3. Using Royal Blue drybrush the upper carapace again, but less heavily this time. Concentrate on the area around the more bulbous parts of the abdomen’s legs (see Fig. 3).
Fig. 4
1. Undercoat the entire model in Dragon Black. To ensure the best results, it is always best to undercoat or prime the assembled tanker bug using black acrylic spray paint, touching up any areas that have been missed by hand (see Fig. 1). A solid black undercoat provides the best surface on which to lay the other colours we will be using for this model. You may find that you have to touch up the undercoat by hand using Dragon Black as the coverage given by spray cans is not always complete.
Fig. 2
4. Make a 50/50 mix of Royal Blue and Falcon Turquoise. Again lightly drybrush the tanker’s upper carapace, thorax, head and the upper legs (see Fig. 4).
Fig. 5
2. Using Phthalo Blue heavily drybrush the upper carapace, thorax, head and the upper legs (see Fig. 2).
5. Using just Falcon Turquoise, very lightly apply one last layer of drybrushing to the tanker’s upper carapace, thorax, head and the upper legs (see Fig. 5).
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Pai nt i ng your Tanker Bug Fig. 6
Fig. 7
6. Paint the edges of the carapace and any areas, such as the tops of the abdominal legs, where the drybrushing has gone astray, in Dragon Black (see Fig. 6).
7. Drybrush all the parts of the model now left black using Hobgoblin Grey, this includes the lower legs and the feet (see Fig. 7). Be more accurate and careful than you may have been in the previous steps, to avoid the previously painted areas.
Fig. 8
Fig. 9
8. Again drybrush the black areas of the tanker, this time using Dinosaur Grey (see Fig. 8).
9. This time drybrush the tanker’s black areas using Djinni Grey (see Fig. 9).
Fig. 10
Fig. 10a
10. Paint the tanker’s face in Marine Blue, the eyes in Troll Green and the mandibles in Bloode Red. At this point I also painted all the claws and horns in Dragon Black (see Fig. 10 and Fig. 10a). As you can see drybrushing is a very handy technique for painting your bugs, three or four stages is all you need to give a striking look on the battlefield. Remember; just use three or four colours ascending in lightness and you can use it anywhere… experiment and enjoy. - 23 -
The Pl as ma Bug
THE PLASMA BUG
Top Tip: The Plasma Bug The abdomen of the plasma bug has been painted to simulate the glowing plasma charge inside. To achieve this effect the windows at the most bulbous part of the abdomen have been painted lighter than the rest.
Plasma bugs are the Arachnid version of a planetary defence system, a role they fulfil admirably. Plasma bugs are ponderously large, almost unable to move on the ground and incapable of burrowing. How the Arachnids handle moving plasma bugs from underground hives to their ‘stations’ on the surface for attack is yet another mystery surrounding these incredibly powerful creatures.
- 24 -
The xm- 550 CHAS uNI T
THE XM-550 CHAS UNIT
Top Tip: XM-550 CHAS Unit To break up the flat surfaces small Hazard Warning signs have been painted on the CHAS. Pictures of military aircraft are a good source of reference for this type of warning sign. Small coloured rectangles and triangles work well. Place them near engines or hydraulic systems.
A recent development by SICON, the CHAS robot is a heavily armed combat machine with the firepower of a squad of normal troopers and enough armour to shrug off blows that would tear though even Mobile Infantry power suits. - 25 -
The Hopper Bug
THE HOPPER BUG
Hopper bugs are a deadly part of the Arachnid army, both for their sheer speed and mobility and the lethal nature of their sudden attacks. While there are ways to detect hopper bugs in flight, it is very difficult and most units are not equipped with the instruments to do so. The best most squads can do when passing through hopper bug territory is to remain alert and be ready to dive for cover. Top Tip: The Hopper Bug The
hopper
iridescent
bugs
quality
in
the
to
their
film
have
bodies,
an this
gives them a multihued, almost metallic look.
A
paint
additive
commonly
called
‘Pearl Medium’ is available from art stores, this can be added to acrylic paint to give it such an iridescent quality.
- 26 -
The Rel i ant Weapons Pl at f or m
THE RELIANT WEAPONS PLATFORM
- 27 -
The Br ai n Bug
THE BRAIN BUG
Brain bugs are at the visible top of the Arachnid hierarchy, though it is theorised that there may be one level above them that has never been seen by humans. Any trooper who assumes these massive and bizarrely shaped creatures are defenceless may not live to realise his error. Brain bugs act as communication and tactical centres for Arachnid hives, connected to every creature in the colony through their impressive but utterly alien telepathic mind. Top Tip: The Brain Bug The Brain Bug requires a degree of modelling experience
to
assemble.
Sometimes
the
metal distorts slightly due to the heat in the casting p rocess – on a multipart model this means gaps. A two-part epoxy putty is best for filling these gaps. Using the base of the brain bug as a jig, assemble the two sides and the ‘face’ first, then add the top section.
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The WASP Tr ooper
WASP TROOPERS
- 29 -
Cat al ogue
CATALOGUE
The Mobile Infantry are the backbone of humanity. They are the armed force that serve the planets of the United Citizens’ Federation, well armed and ready to take on any menace to mankind’s dominant position among the stars.
A recent development by SICON, the CHAS robotic unit is a heavily armed combat machine with the firepower of an entire squad of normal troopers and enough armour to shrug off blows that would tear through a standard M-1A4 power suit.
Code: MGP910006
Price: $14.95/£8.50
This box set contains a complete Mobile Infantry Trooper squad of eight men, plus a variety of weapon and equipment options, making these the best equipped soldiers in the galaxy!
Code: MGP910001
Price: $19.9 5/£12.00
In the brutal universe of the future, humanity needs every soldier it can muster and women fight alongside men with just as much ferocity.
Code: MGP910011
Price: $24.95/£15.00 The Flamberge is a heavy ground attack missile fired from large gunships miles from the combat zone. The Sarissa Space Combat Missile, launched from ships in orbit to deliver pin point strikes on Arachnid swarms, is capable of defeating even the heaviest of Plasma Bug anti-aircraft fire.
More famous than even the power suits worn by most Mobile Infantry, the M8 ‘Ape’ Marauder suit enables a single trooper to take on whole bug swarms by himself - though it is usually best not to!
Code: MGP910007
Price: $19.95/£12.0 0
Code: MGP910030
Price: $19.95/£12.0 0
The Heroes of the Mobile Infantry stand ready to do their part for Earth, Mankind and the Federation! Having joined the Mobile Infantry, they have decided to place the importance of the body politic above their own personal safety.
A more specialised Marauder variant than the Ape, the M9 ‘Chickenhawk’ is designed as a mobile gun platform, capable of bringing huge amounts of firepower to any portion of the battlefield.
Code: MGP910008
Price: $19.95/£12.0 0
Code: MGP910003
- 30 -
Price: $19.95/£12.0 0
Cat al ogue The WASP flight packs seem bulky and unwieldy devices but they can grant an entire squad of Cap Troopers an unprecedented degree of battlefield mobility. Designed so the MI’s normal weaponry can be used while in flight, the WASP pack is a valuable upgrade that can far extend the jump distance of a squad.
Deployable within minutes of an engagement, the Reliant Gun Platform is the standard defensive emplacement of the Mobile Infantry.
Code: MGP910015
Price: $24.9 5/£15.00
Code: MGP910016
Price: $24.9 5/£15.00
The highest ranking Arachnid yet discovered by the Mobile Infantry, this is certainly one big, fat, smart bug! The brain bug is capable of monitoring the actions of dozens of lesser Arachnids, guiding them towards the enemy while using its mighty psychic powers to crush the puny humans.
Insectoid in origin and possessing phenomenal strength, Arachnids (or Bugs as they are referred to by most Cap Troopers) appear to be hostile to all forms of life not their own. Code: MGP910010
Price: $29.95/£17.00
Completely unafraid in the face of battle, fast moving, resistant to incoming fire and capable of ripping apart even heavily armoured vehicles, the warrior bugs are the mainstay of the Arachnid army and a huge swarm of them is terrifying to behold.
Code: MGP910002
Price: $19.95/£12.00
Blister and blaster bugs provide additional ranged firepower for the Arachnid host, and are treated as utilitarian and expendable by the brain bugs they serve.
Code: MGP910019
Price: $24.95/£15.00
Supremely fast and agile, hopper bugs gather in swarms to sweep across the battlefield. Moving at full speed, they are capable of decapitating the most heavily-armoured trooper before sweeping out of sight.
The firefry is a lightweight species that can leap enormous distances and then deliver a stream of volatile chemicals that ignite with oxygen.
Code: MGP910005
Price: $24.95/£15.00
Code: MGP910009
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Price: $24.95/£15.00
