tihx<^xy of t:he t:heolo0ical ^eminarjo
PRINCETON
•
NEW JERSEY
PURCHASED BY THE MRS. ROBERT LENOX KENNEDY CHURCH HISTORY FUND
-
BV 167 .Mil 1896 Macalister, Robert Alexander Stewart, 1870-1950. Ecclesiastical vestments
ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS
EDITED BY G.
LAURENCE GOMME,
F.S.A.,
AND T.
FAIRMAN ORDISH,
F.S.A.
Brass of Simon de Wenslagh
Yorkshire (showing the Western Church).
(circ. 1360), Wensley, the Eucharistic vestments of a priest of
:
THE CAMDEN LIBR ART
ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS ^hcir Bebclopmcitt anb 2|tstarB
BV
R.
A.
S.
MACALISTER, M.A.
Member of the Royal Society of Antiquaries of Ireland
LONDON
ELLIOT STOCK,
62,
PATERNOSTER ROW
1896
REFACE
P
WITHIN
comparatively recent years the
made
discovery has been
that
it
is
possible to treat the Bible, for critical
were an ordinary item of
purposes, as though
it
national
while
literature,
maintaining
Word
as the inspired
reverence for
it
by so doing
a flood of sidelight
is
a
fitting
and that
;
cast
upon
it
which illuminates the obscurity of some of its most dlflicult passages.
So, to possible
compare and
ecclesiastical
siology it
has
those
discard
advisable to
ecclesiastlclsm
with greater,
lesser things
(so to
term
antiquities.
it)
all
it
is
feeling of
when speaking of
The
science
of eccle-
of comparatively recent growth, and hitherto suffered much at the hands of is
who have approached
learn the plain lessons
it
it
not so
much
teaches, as to force
it
to to
declare the existence or non-existence in early or
—
Preface.
viii
mediaeval times of certain
While we should with
furniture
and observances.
rites
and
treat ancient churches
respect
—
a respect
their
which should
not be denied to the despised, though often quaint
and interesting, high pews and west as
being
galleries
instruments formed for the
edifices or
use of the worshippers of God, yet for antiquarian
purposes they should be examined and dissected in
same
exactly the
spirit as that in
which we investi-
gate the temples of ancient Greece, or the stone
weapons of prehistoric man.
In this spirit
the
author of the present book has worked. Ecclesiology, besides
sentimental connection
its
with ecclesiasticism, possesses render
the most
it
many
all-embracing science of archaeology.
with which senses
it
the
;
the
limner,
is
live
its
works of the
finest
silversmith,
scope
within
The
objects
concerned appeal strongly to the
the
broiderer, the illuminator,
within
which
features
popular branch of the great
;
reach
architect,
engraver,
the
and the musician,
they are accessible to
of an
ancient
all
church
the
emcome
who or
a
moderately good museum, and the pleasant excursions and companionships with which
its
votaries
are favoured invest its pursuit with the happiest associations.
obstacle
which
Above lies
at
all,
the
it
lacks
that
terrible
threshold of almost
every other subject of serious archaeological study
— the
necessity of attaining perfection in at least
ix
Preface.
No
one foreign language.
one can form more
than the merest dilettante acquaintance with
the
antiquities of India, Egypt, Greece, Ireland, or any-
other country, without mastering the language in
which the records of the country are written
but
;
the merest smattering of mediaeval dog-Latin
quite sufficient
is
open the door to high (not,
to
perhaps, the highest') attainments in ecclesiology.
These
manifold
have resulted in
attractions
hampering the study of ecclesiology with a serious drawback, which is wanting in nearly all the other
The
branches of archaeology.
investigation of the
marvellous antiquities of the four countries just
mentioned country
—
— can
or,
be
of
indeed,
any
almost
the certainty that if he applies himself to
many
ciently to master the
difficulties
it
which
no doubt, present themselves, he will be position to break ground as yet untouched
knowledge
will
So
him
enable
discoveries of his own. ecclesiology.
other
undertaken by a student with
But
easily
it
to is
make
suffi-
will,
a
in ;
his
original
far otherwise in
understood are the facts of
the subject (except in a few obscure points relating to the early
Church)
;
so definite are the statements
of the numberless records, when the vagaries of symbolical theorizers are sifted away from them so countless has been,
that
and
is,
the
the scope for research-work
minimum
;
hardly anything
is left
;
army of students, is
reduced to a
for the originally-
X
Preface,
minded worker but to discover the personal names of the different artists whose handiworks he sees before him, or else to
propound some
startling
and
revolutionary theory respecting the use of low-side
windows or Easter
sepulchres.
In the subdivision of ecclesiology with which this
book
concerned, originality, whether of fact
is
or treatment,
is
This work
practically impossible.
cannot claim to be more than a compilation, but can claim to
fill
a space not exactly occupied
any other book, in that
it
it
by
gives in a brief and
convenient form the principal facts connected with
vestments and their use throughout the chief subdivisions of the Christian
almost
all
Church
;
it
is
not, as are
other works on the subject, confined to
one branch only, or at most to the great Churches of the West and the East, but includes as well the smaller and
branches
more
of the
isolated communities,
Universal
and those Church which have
undergone reformation. Exception
may
possibly be taken to the
manner
which the alleged symbolism of vestments has been treated. But it is impossible to overlook the
in
facts.
If,
as
is
now
ecclesiologist, the
of evolution
from
clearly ludicrous to first
the opinion of every leading
vestments are the natural result
alleged
costume,
it
is
suppose that when they were
worn they possessed
they are
Roman
civil
the symbolical
to bear
;
meanings
the symbolism
is
as
xi
Preface.
much
an accretion as are the jewels and the of
broidery
the
obviously the
who
'
Moreover, the
middle ages.
meanings
symbolical
attached
private
em-
them
to
judgments' of the
so
are
writers
and are so irreconcilable and
describe them,
so far-fetched, that to the unbiased
mind they do
not appear worthy of serious treatment.
some recent books on
In
ecclesiological
and
antiquarian matters Greek words are transliterated
English
into
been followed
This
characters.
in the present
unsatisfactory appearance of
because of the
Greek words in Roman
dress,
and because the Greek alphabet
to
students.
all
as Russian or
English
Words of
Armenian,
are,
familiar
is
other languages, such
however, expressed
in
alphabets are not so well
letters, as their
known, and they
has not
practice
work
are not so easily set
up
in native
my
lamented
type. I
must record
my
friend the late Prof. assistance
;
on-Sea, for
indebtedness to
Middleton for useful hints and
Dr F. R. Fairbank, of St Leonard' smany notes and references which have
to
been of great value to me, and especially for the loan of several blocks
to
;
Mr W.
J.
the loan of a rubbing of the Sessay brass
Rev.
S.
Kaye ;
for
to the
Schechter for kind assistance in questions
which arose
in
the
first
chapter
;
to the Rev.
A. D. A. van Scheltema for information regarding the Church of Holland and for many helps and ;
Preface.
Xll
suggestions to
my
ledgment of the
in the preparation it.
A
list
tribution
is
father, to
interest
whom,
in
acknow-
he has throughout shown
of the book,
I
wish to dedicate
of the principal works laid under congiven in an Appendix.
R. A.
S.
M.
CONTENTS CHAPTER
I.
PAGE
THE GENESIS OF ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS
CHAPTER
H.
THE EARLY DEVELOPiMENT OF ECCLESIASTICAL MENTS IN THE WESTERN CHURCH
CHAPTER
I
VEST-
24
HI.
THE FINAL FORM OF VESTMENTS
IN
THE WESTERN
CHURCH
60
CHAPTER
IV.
THE HISTORY AND CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PROCESSIONAL
VESTMENTS
OF VESTMENTS
-
THE
;
ORNAMENTATION -
-
CHAPTER
-
"137
V.
THE VESTMENTS OF THE EASTERN CHURCHES
-
1
75
Contents,
xiv
CHAPTER
VI. PAGE
THE VESTMENTS OF THE REFORMED CHURCHES
CHAPTER
-
1
92
VII.
THE RITUAL USES OF VESTMENTS
APPENDIX
-
-
-
2 11
I.
COSTUMES OF THE RELIGIOUS ORDERS
-
MEDIAEVAL UNIVERSITY COSTUME
-
-253
-
-257
APPENDIX AN INDEX OF SYNONYMOUS TERMS
APPENDIX
-
235
II.
-
III.
A LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL AUTHORITIES REFERRED
------
TO IN THE COMPILATION OF THIS WORK
INDEX
-
258 262
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS {For full
of sources follozved
titles
see
Appendix
III)
PAGE
PIG.
BRASS OF SLMON DE WENSLAGH, WENSLEY, YORKS Fro7itispiece 1.
VESTMENTS OF THE JEWISH PRIESTHOOD. Bock)
-
-
.
-
2.
BISHOP ADxMINISTERING BAPTISM.
3.
ECCLESIASTICS
4.
RAVENNA. {Rock) EFFIGY OF A ROMAN MUSEUM, {B/oxam)
5.
6.
9.
10.
{Marriott)
IN
-
-
-
-
THE GREAT WITH {Smith and Cheetham) STAFF. SHOWING VARIETIES STOLE-ENDS, AND ORNAMENT. {ArchcBological
PASTORAL
POPE
CITIZEN -
-
-
GREGORY
ARCHBISHOP
-
-
STIGAND, (
Willemin)
-
-
IN
FORM
-
THE -
-
46 49 57
Association
-
FROM
^
37
VITALE,
S
CAERLEON
TAPESTRY. 8.
_
IN
/ourftal) 7.
-
FROM THE MOSAICS -
{After
-
73
BAYEUX -
-
DEACON IN EPISCOPAL DALMATIC. {BuHdiflg News) DEACON IN DIAGONAL DALMATIC. {Rock) SIR PETER LEGH, KNIGHT AND PRIEST. {Huines)
76 78 78
84
List of Illustrations,
xvi
PAGE
FIG.
11.
BISHOP WAYNFLETE's EPISCOPAL SANDAL.
12.
S
13.
MONUMENT OF ALBRECHT VON BRANDENBURG,
DUNSTAN (fROM A library).
15.
16. 17.
18. 19.
21. 2 2.
-
24.
-
-
-
-
-
-
A BISHOP, SALISBURY CATHEDRAL. {BloxaUl) MONUMENT OF DIETHER VON ISENBURG, MAYENCE PASTORAL STAFF AND MITRA PRETIOSA. {Bloxani) BRASS OF ARCHDEACON MAGNUS, SESSAY, YORK-
------
ROBERT BRASSIE, KING'S COLLEGE, " CAMBRIDGE CHRYSOME CHILD. {Haities) A COPE-CHEST, YORK MINsTER. {ArchcCologLCal BRASS
92
THE COTTONIAN
-
97 I
01
I05
108 II7 II 7 1
20
147
OF
-
Associatiofi Journal) 23.
{Rock)
BISHOP WAYNFLETE's EPISCOPAL STOCKING. {Rock) FIGURE OF A POPE {temp. INNOCENT III). {Rock)
SHIRE 20.
IN
{Marriott)
MAYENCE 14.
MS.
.
-
ARMENIAN PRIEST. {Fortcscue) MALABAR PRIEST. {Howard)
25-28. ILLUSTRATIONS
OF
EASTERN CHURCH.
1
72
i73
-
-
-
-
-
-177
-
-
ECCLESIASTICS {King)
^S©
-
OF -
-
1
78
THE 179-185
29.
A SYNOD MEETING OF THE REFORMED CHURCH
30.
DEACON
OF FRANCE. {Quick) IN FOLDED CHASUBLE, WELLS CATHEDRAL.
205
{Archceologia)
216
-
-
-
-
-
ECCLESIASriCAL VESTMENTS,
CHAPTER
I.
THE GENESIS OF ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS.
THE
Study of ecclesiastical history or an-
tiquities can
two
be pursued from
Standpoints.
We
either
may
take
of
into
account those essentially religious or theological elements which distinguish this subject from
all
other branches of antiquarian science, and keep
them prominently tions less
;
or
else,
before us during our investiga-
disregarding those elements more or
completely,
we may
consider the subject wholly
from the point of view of the antiquary.
As stress
who
a general rule, those investigators
on the
antiquarian
ecclesiastical
rather
on the
than
side of ecclesiology and
lay
its
various
subdivisions have been attracted to the study not so
much by
the intrinsic interest which, in I
some
Ecclesiastical Vestments. degree, every branch of archaeology possesses, as
by the wish to to
settle controversial questions relating
Church doctrine, usage, or
discipline.
especially true of the important section
This
is
of eccle-
which these pages are concerned. into which the students of
siology with
There are two schools
Church vestments may be divided
Each
and the antiquarian.
knowledge of the
subject,
— the
ritualistic
strives to attain full
and the means employed
by both schools are the same
—the evidence drawn
from a patient comparison of the works of authors and
artists
of successive periods.
But while those
of the purely antiquarian school regard the knowledge thus gained as in
itself
the chief end of their
researches, those of the other consider a stepping-stone, leading to proofs
appointment
of the
use
it
rather as
of the Divine
of vestments,
and
in-
dicating regulations to govern the usage of vest-
ments It
in the
is
modern Church.
not surprising that the results of the in-
vestigations of in view,
two
schools, having aims so diverse
should be mutually incompatible.
Accord-
members of the ritualistic school, the vestments of the Christian Church were modelled directly upon the vestments of the Jewish and as minute instructions for the priesthood
ing to the views of some
;
shapes and usage of the latter were laid the divinely-revealed
laws
down
in
of Moses, they thus
claim an at least indirect Divine appointment for
The Genesis of Ecclesiastical Vestments.
The
the Christian vestments.
on the other hand,
3
antiquarian party,
unanimous in holding that the vestments of the Christian Church were evolved, by a natural process, from the ordinary costume of a
Roman
our
citizen of the first or
second century of
era.
The first
theory,
were made
absolutely
is
favour of the second view, yet
in
the
in
does
stated,
must
theories
Neither
although the balance of probability
for,
;
enormously
this
two
consideration of these
occupy our attention.
correct is
are
not
form in which
cover
often
is
it
changes which
certain
and number
in the textures, outlines,
of the vestments while the Church was yet com-
These changes were
paratively young.
duced to
all
intro-
assimilate, as far as possible, the Jewish
and Christian systems
;
and thus
may
it
be said
that both views contain an element of truth.
The
theory of a Levitical origin
the two years
in fact,
;
the
it
only,
was the
solution
first,
is
the older ot
and for many
proposed.
We
shall
therefore at the outset devote a page or
considering
students
its
merits.
of the
absolutely.
two to Very few, even among the
ritualistic
The
school,
now
hold
it
weight of argument which can
be brought to bear against
it is
so great that
it is
almost universally abandoned as untenable.
For comparative purposes, at
this
stage
to
introduce
it
will be necessary
a
short
descriptive
Ecclesiastical Vestments, catalogue of the vestments of the Levitical priest-
Book of Exodus
hood, as prescribed in the
Josephus
xxviii).
particulars
subject,
from that source
The Drawers
I.
Antiquities,'
(*
on the
locus classicus
or
'
xxviii
tunic
was of
39).
—
the
('
Josephus
breast,
a
of
coat
fine linen,'
us
tells
that
doubled
;
this
that
it
the body, and
sleeves.
above
little
:
of Linen,
'
feet, fitting close to
was furnished with tight to
also a
are here incorporated
fine linen or flax
reached to the
is
7)
and some additional
Breeches
The Tunic of Linen
II.
Exod.
iii
(chap,
was girded
It
the
of the
level
elbows, by
The
III.
Girdle.
which, according
broad
—This
to
was a
strip
Josephus, was
broad and thirty-two cubits long. times round the body
;
over the breast and hung
tied
except
four
fingers
according to Maimonides,* three fingers
;
many
of linen
when the
priest
It
down
was engaged
to the feet,
in sacrifice or
other service, in which case he threw left
shoulder, so that
his
duty.
flowers,
it
was wound
the ends were then
it
over his
should not impede
him
in
was elaborately embroidered with worked in scarlet, purple, and blue It
threads. * Mishneh
where
Torah,
VIII,
section
de
vasts
sanctuar.,
some other particulars are to be found regarding the textures of which the Jewish vestments were
viii
19,
made,
etc.
—
'
The Genesis of Ecclesiastical Vestments,
5
Exod. xxviii This was an ordinary turban, fastened round 40). The description given by Josephus is the head. IV. The Priest's
Cap
('
bonnet,'
—
and
clear
says
*
:
He
detailed.
Upon
his
head he
wears a cap, not brought to a conic form nor encir-
whole head, but covering more than
cling the still
half of
which
it,
mesnaemphthes
make
;
such
is
is
called
and
its
that
it
seemeth to be a crown [garland], being made of thick swathes, but
^
contexture
and
it is
many Vestments of the
I.
Jewish Priesthood.
the
of linen,
doubled round
and sewed besides which,
times
together Fig.
is
;
a pieceof fine linencovers
the cap from the whole
and reaches down to the forehead and otherwise hides the seams of the swathes, which
upper
part,
would appear improperly.'* * Yirlp Se els
Tvacrav
KaXuTcii (1)5
fxlv
(rT€(/)av7/
T?]^ Kecfidkris
dvrriv,
dXX'
4>opd ttIXov aKCOvov, ov ^uKVOvp.evov ctt'
fj.€(Tvaefj4e'>]S.
oXlyov, rrj Se
SoK€lv, e^ vcfxiorfxaros,
vTrep/SelS-qKOTa ^fiecrrjs
KaraaKevy TOLodros Xiveov racvia
^(ttlv
7r€770irifM€vr]
iraxda, koI yap k-nrTva-crop^vov pdinerai TroXXaKis.
e-etra
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
These four vestments constituted the complete equipment of the ordinary Jewish priest, as prescribed in the Mosaic law.
The
added four more, which were
ever,
how-
high-priest, as follows
:
V. The Tunic of Blue ('robe of the ephod,' Exod. xxviii 31). This was a long garment
—
which, according to some authorities, reached to the
feet,
but according to others to the knees only.
was woven
It
in
one
piece,
with
an
aperture
through which the head of the wearer was passed
;
this aperture
was guarded by a binding or braid
to prevent
from tearing.
of
this
it
Round
garment were hung golden
of pomegranates, alternating
The meaning
hem
and models
one with another.
of this remarkable ornament
is
not
and several explanations have been advanced
clear,
to account for
it
worth recording
VI
the lower
bells
.
;
^
elaborate and the
rest.
The
others
is
is
however,
fanciful,
and not
here.
The Ephod
vestments,
all,
more
which was
once the most
at
most important of the Jewish fully described than
any of the
superiority of this vestment over the
due to the part which
it,
plate intimately connected with
and the breast-
it,
played in the
mysterious revelations by which the children of Israel
were guided during
cnv^uiv avioOiv T^'jv
T€
Tovcra
pa
the
period
dvTov iKirepikpyjerai SiyKOvaa T-qs
Taivtas kul to
drr'
— Translation from Whiston.
of
the
fJ-^xpt /xertoTrov,
avT/Js dirpeTrh KaXvTT-
'The Genesis
7
For us, however, it would be as it would be futile to speculate on
Theocracy. irrelevant
of Ecclesiastical Vestments.
as
the nature of the revelation, or the instrumentality
of the ephod in indicating the Divine will to the
We
priest.
ephod
as
priest,
with
an element its
the
equipment of the high-
in the
shape, and with such particulars of
we can
use as
its ritual
only with
concerned
here
are
find directly stated in the
different authorities. '
The
ephod,' says Josephus, was
*
depth of a cubit, of several colours
and
purple,
scarlet
was made with
it
enumerated
are
sleeves also
;
made from
The vestment seems
to
to the
[gold,
blue,
Exodus]
in
nor did
to be at all differently
have
woven
;
appear
it
a short coat.'*
consisted
of two
and a back, which were buttoned two onyx stones, one on each shoulder,
pieces, a front
together by set in
bezils or
'
ouches,'
names of the twelve other.
Round
was an Josephus
on one,
six
on the
the waist was passed a girdle, which
essential tells
and engraved with the
tribes, six
part
of the vestment
—
indeed,
us that the girdle and the ephod
were sewn together.
This
girdle,
which was made
of materials similar to those which constituted the
ephod, seems to have been embroidered elaborately
with coloured threads. * Y<^av^ei5 Kal
no
)(^pva-ov
€7rt
(3ddos 7r7])(yaLOV eK re \pu)fxaTix)U TravTOiwv
a-viximroLKiXixkvov ,
Travrl a-^rjixari \LT(d)V
dvai
.
.
.
xeipLcn re rjcTKrifxevos, kol
TTiTroL-qjikvos.
8
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
8
The its
of the ephod, even apart from
ritual uses
supernatural
obscure.
are
associations,
It
is
both in Exodus and by Josephus
distinctly implied
that the vestment was intended for the use of the high-priest alone
;
we
yet
find allusions scattered
books of the Old
through the early historical
Testament which clearly indicate that by others
Thus, we read
as well.
in
Doeg, commanded by Saul to
that
priests
who had
assisted
David,
score and five persons that did
Again, Samuel, priests,
'
when
wear
(i
Sam.
ii
read that King David himself,
'
.
.
four-
.
a linen ephod.'
Lord
.
i8).
Further,
.
when he
the ark from the house of Obed-Edom
was
on the
fall
slew
1
a child in the service of the
ministered before the
with a linen ephod'
*
was worn
it
Sam. xxii
i
girded with a linen ephod.'
.
girded
we
escorted
to Jerusalem,
In these three
we read of an ephod being worn by the minor priest, the acolyte, and the layman, for none The most of whom it was originally intended.
passages
probable explanation seems to be that the ephod, originally intended as a
alone,
for the high-priest
was gradually assumed, probably
minor
elaborate form, by the
or
vestment
how we cannot
say.
that the regulation
stands in
Exodus; but
recension of Ezra.
— when
This explanation assumes
was originally
stringent restrictions
in a less
priests as well
it is
may
laid
down
possible that the
not be
earlier
as
it
more
than the
The Genesis of Ecclesiastical Vestments.
We viii
et
9
from the incidents of Gideon (Judg.
learn
27) and of Micah (Judg. xvii 5 ; xviii 14 seq.) that the ephod, or, rather, copies of it,
early
became objects of superstitious veneration.
In the two latter passages quoted, as well as in Hos. V 4, the vestment is coupled with the
teraphim or penates, to the worship of which the Israelites
showed marked inclination
periods of their history.
passing oracles,'
that
Ephod, which used
is
It
a
as
may
at different
be noticed in
signifies
'giver
personal name
of
(Num.
xxxiv 23). This was VII. The Breastplate of the Ephod. a rectangular piece of cloth of the same material
—
as the ephod.
precious
doubled,
stones its
That
it
with
shape
might the which
when
it
better hold the
was
set,
it
was
so treated being that of a
perfect square, with a side of about nine inches The stones were twelve in number, and long. fixed in settings of gold, being arranged in four
rows of three each. On each stone was engraved the name of one of the twelve tribes. This breastplate was secured by two plaited or twisted chains of gold, fastened at the one end to the bezils of the shoulder-pieces of the ephod, at the other to rings of gold in the upper corners
of the breastplate, and by two blue cords secured to rings of gold in the lower corners of the breastplate and in the sides of the ephod above the
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
lo
embroidered
Josephus asserts that there
girdle.
was an aperture
ephod immediately under For this statement there is no
in the
the breastplate.
Scriptural authority
but
;
possible that
is
it
it
is
the record of a modification in the details of the
vestment naturally evolved and established
at
some
time subsequent to the institution of the vestment itself.
— This
The Mitre.
VIII.
not
did
in
differ
essence from the head-dress of the priests except
one important respect
in
plate,
set
on
inscription,
lace
a
Holy
'
to
—
the addition of a gold
of blue, and
bearing
Josephus
Jehovah.'
the
does
not mention this plate, but describes the mitre as a
kind of
triple
tiara,
shaped cup of gold, proper."^
surmounted by
a flower-
and covering the turban
This, however,
quite at variance with
is
the original laws on the subject.
In one respect these vestments are similar to those which
on the subject clearly that
'
our duty to describe in the Although there is no injunction in the Law, the Talmud states
will be
it
following pages.
he
who wears
priests outside the
*
*Y7re/)
KiXfJiiVos,
the vestments of the
temple does a thing forbidden.'
avTov Se crvveppaixix^vos 7r€pup\€Tai
KexaXK€Vjxhos.
OdXXei
aaKxdpti) (SoTavY) irap Kva/xov ^FiXXrjviov.
8k crT€(f)avo
rjjjLiv
ctt'
erepo'S
e^ vaKivOov
xpvcreo'i
avno
IttI
kolXv^,
tt^ttol-
t pi(TTOi\iav xP^'^^^"^
Xeyofxevrj a7ro/x€yui/x7^/x€vos,
vo
'^V
Se
1
T^he Genesis It
of Ecclesiastical Vestments.
admitted by almost
is
vestments during the
first six
the Christian era were of
than those of
temporary
later times.
art
other view.
is
all
1
students that the
or eight centuries of
much The
greater simpHcity
evidence of con-
overwhelmingly opposed to any
This
being admitted,
fact
we need
not be surprised by finding that until the eighth
made
or ninth century no attempt was
to trace
any connection between the elaborate vestments
which we have just described, and the vestments worn by those who ministered in the offices of Christian worship. It is true that until the
Churchmen
did
time we have mentioned
not greatly
trouble
themselves
with investigations into the history of the religion they professed or the it is
ritual
they performed.
But
also true that several authors before this date
enumerate the Jewish vestments, and enter at length into the figurative meanings which they were alleged to bear
;
but not one of these refers to any supposed
genealogical connection missible
— between
be inexplicable
if
— if
the
the expression be per-
two systems.
the Christian
actually derived from the
This would
vestments were
Jewish
;
for not only
would the resemblance between the two be obvious, but the tradition of the assumption by Christian clerics
of the vestments originally instituted for
the Jewish priesthood would
minds of the authors.
still
be fresh in the
Yet not only do
these
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
12 writers
not point out any resemblance between use of words and phrases
two they even make
the
:
which point to considerable differences between the outward appearance of Jewish and Christian vesture.
Apart from these considerations, may we not
how
ask with reason
and persecuted maintain an
sect,
the early Christians, a poor
assume and and expensive system of
could possibly
elaborate
vestments such as the Jewish?
sumption had been made secution
acts
parts of the is
it
all
first
courts in
ecclesiastical
known world from
that
all
the earliest times
record of such an important
proceeding has perished
The
the as-
possess a tolerably full series of the
and transactions of
how
if
past, surely some record of the would have been preserved till our own
We
?
And
the days of per-
were
transaction
day
after
?
hint of the idea of the
of the Christian vestments
is
Maurus, Archbishop of Mainz,
Mosaic origin
given by Rabanus in his treatise
'
De
Institutione Clericorum,'* written about the year
850.
In the
first
book of
this tract
he discusses
each Christian vestment in turn, endeavouring to find parallels to
some of them among the vestments
of the Jewish priesthood, but without
much
success.
The seed thus sown, however, rapidly bore among subsequent writers, who expanded
fruit
the
theory with great elaboration. '^'
I,
cap. xiv et
seq.
(Migne,
'
Patrologia,' vol. cvii, col. 306).
3
The
Genesis of Ecclesiastical Vestments,
Many some of
of the identifications brought forward by the late writers are very far-fetched,
To
mutually contradictory. can
1
be
attributed.
It
these but
a
is
little
that
significant fact
none of the writers who endeavour to
and
weight
find parallels
between the two systems can discover an equivalent
among the Jewish vestments for the chasuble. Now, if for each of the Christian vestments there existed a corresponding vestment among those of the
Jews,
would be singular
it
that the
most
important of the former should be unrepresented
among
the
equivalent
The
latter.
however,
(this,
maniple, is
more
too,
has
no
intelligible, since
that ornament was certainly a later introduction)
while the amice
is
;
the only vestment that even the
most ingenious can produce to represent the ephod, though the similarity between the two is of the slightest.
There
another important
is
point
which the
advocates of a Mosaic origin for Christian vest-
The
early Christians certainly
did borrow
many
details
of their worship from the
Jews who
lived
around them, and from whose
ments overlook.
religion
many of them had been converted
;
but
these details were taken not from the antiquated ritual of the
temple worship, but from the syna-
gogue worship,
Now,
to
which they had been accustomed. which we have described above
the vestments
were appointed for the tabernacle worship and the
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
14
temple worship, vestments were
appointed
its
at
any time or by any authority
for use in the
f
synagogue worship
hence the Christian vesture cannot be said to directly
We
'
no
direct successor, whereas
*
and
come
from the Jewish. theory of a Levitical
discussed the
have
making only
origin on purely a priori grounds,
the slightest allusion to the vestments themselves as
we
find
them
the second view, to which
we
it is
now
the
main
facts
time to turn,
We
adopt a different course.
shall
collect
In considering
in primitive times.
which can
shall first
be discovered
deduced respecting vestments in the earliest centuries of Christianity, from the beginning till or
the rupture of the East and the West, and then discuss in detail the vestments as
we
find
the succeeding period, which in
all
ecclesiastical
them
in
matters was a period of transition, comparing each
among the The remainder of
in turn with its hypothetical prototype civil
costume of the Romans.
the present and the whole of the succeeding chapter will be
The
devoted to this investigation. materials available for an inquiry into the
vestment usage of the early Church are twofold
:
the incidental statements of contemporary authors,
and the more * Such this
is
a
direct information obtained
vestment
worn by
all
officiating minister.
as
the talith
is
from a
not here considered, for
the worshippers alike, as well as
hj the
5
^Khe Genesis
of Ecclesiastical Vestments.
1
study of contemporary paintings and sculpture.
We
shall
now
the results which follow
discuss
from an examination of these
The
references
in
the
sources.
earliest
writers
—even
including those which have a very indirect bearing
on the and
all
subject
—
are extremely
passages which
can
few
in
number
;
possibly throw any
light on the question have been eagerly sought
out and called into evidence to support one theory or another.
statement of
The two best-known passages are the Holy worship hath one St Jerome *
:
habiit in
the ministry, another in general use
common
life
and and the yet more famous passage the liturgy of St Clement, in which a rubric
in
'
;*
directs the priest to begin the service a shining vesture.'j" /iierev^vQ
has
been
The
*
girded with
phrase Xa^Trpai^
translated
*
eaOioTa
being girded with
his " splendid " vestment,' a translation which the
Greek cannot
possibly
bear
;
and
this
passage,
coupled with the excerpt from Jerome just quoted,
have been brought forward to vestments were in use even thos;e
testify that
gorgeous
at the early times
when
documents from which they have been ex-
tracted were written. "'•'
Hieron. In Ezek., cap.
habitum habet t
Et'^a/xei/09
in ministerio
xliv.
alterum
*
Religio divina alterum
in usu vitaque
communi.'
ovv KaO^ eavrov 6 dpxt^^p^vs a/xa rots UpevaLV
Kal \afM77pav i(Tdy]Ta fierevSvs Kal crras Trpbs
T(^ dvcnacrTrjpLOi
TO TooiraLOv rod crravpov Kara tov parioTTOv tov X^tpl fl€VO
K,T.\.
Troirja-d-
6
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
1
Mr. Marriott has carefully examined and gommented on these and the other passages cited as
He
authorities.
proves that the
first
passage given
which shows that
context
used in a is Jerome, though possibly he may have had Christian usage in his mind, was thinking primarily of Jewish usage the second (which not improbably is an
above
;
interpolation) does not specify a
but a
'
Mr.
white
'
or
'
shining
'
Marriott's inference
passages
'
is
that white
in primitive times
*
splendid
'
vesture,
garment.
from these and similar
was the colour appropriated in the first four centuries]
[i.e.,
Though to the dress of the Christian ministry.' the that theory the to preferable this view is primitive vestments were of the same elaborate description as their mediaeval successors, yet
not altogether
from
commend
itself as
the authorities cited.
review these passages,
does
following naturally
It will
for, as
it
we
be necessai y to shall
endeavour
to show, they are quite consistent with the third alternative
that no distinctive vestments
:
apart for the exclusive use
during the
first
were
four centuries of the Christian era.
from Jerome. another part of the same commentary as the
The
third
he writes
we ought
' :
set
of the Christian minister
passage
From
all
not enter the
is
also
these things
we
Holy of Holies
everyday garments and in whatever will, defiled as they are
In last
learn that clad in our
clothes
by the usage of
we
common
—
77?^ Genesis life
of Ecclesiastical Vestments,
ly
but with pure conscience and in pure garments
;
we ought to hold the sacraments of the Lord.'* The fourth passage is from Jerome's letter against the Pelagians,
markable words
*
:
which occur these re-
in
You
say,
further,
geousness of apparel or ornament
God.
But,
tunic,
I
ask, suppose
wherein would
priest,
it
I
gor-
that
offensive to
is
should wear a comelier
God
offend
or if bishop,
?
deacon, and the rest of the church officers
were to come forward dressed in white
Only one other passage remains. of
account
the charge
preferred
V'\
This against
the
is
Cyril,
Bishop of Jerusalem, before the Emperor Constantius.
Hist.,
length,
It
ii
narrated
is
may
be
in
Theodoret
(Eccl.
being worth quoting
27), and, not
thus
briefly stated
at
Constantine
:
had sent to Macarius, the then bishop, a sacred
—
Uciav aroXw made of threads of gold, to be worn when administering baptism Cyril had sold this robe to a stage-dancer, who wore it during a
robe
;
*
'
Per quae discimus non quotldianis
usu vitae
communis
sancta sanctorum sed
tcnere f
munda
Domini sacramenta.'
conscientia et
— Hieron.
'Adjungis gloriam vestium
Quae sunt rogo tunicam habuero mundiorem
contraiiam.
diaconus et reliquus sacrificiorum Pelagianos,
Candida
lib,
i,
et
si
mundis vestibus
ornamentorum Deo episcopus
processerint
?'
esse
Deum
si
presbyter
et
contra
ordo ecclesiasticus in veste
debere in
in Ezek., cap. xliv.
inimicitiae ?
pro
et quibuslibet
pollutis vestibus nos ingredi
administratione
— Hieron.,
cap. 9.
2
Adv.
8
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
1
public exhibition.
It
stage-dancer had
was further
stated that the
dancing and been
fallen while
fatally injured.
As
the reader will see, these passages give but
few data for deductions
There is no indication, for from Theodoret of what
Church.
in the early
as to the vestment-usage
instance, in the passage
was
sort the sacred robe in question
:
it
may
just
have been a splendid garment originally
as well
The
from some temple or other. early
Greek
word
GToXi] to
ecclesiastical
the
fact that
do not use the
writers
denote a sacred vestment further
weakens the force of
this anecdote as an
argument.
Only Germanus, Patriarch of Constantinople
(early
seventh century), supplies another instance, where
he says AapCjv
aroXri tov lepetjQ
i]
:
.
.
.
Kara rov
no^rj^r]
and this latter passage can be explained
;
away, as
0-70X77
refers here to Jewish vesture, in
which connection
it
also
is
employed by the
Septuagint.
On
careful
a
passages,
it
and unbiased reading of these
will be
noticed that nothing
is
said
which can be construed into denoting garments of a special prescribed shape,
and that
their colour
is
only specified by such indefinite words as Xafnrpoq
and Candidas. It
the
is
also
Jerome
important to notice that although in
and third of the passages
first
a
more
special
mention
is
cited
from
made of the
9
;
The Genesis of Ecclesiastical Vestments, dress of the
meaning of applying
clergy, yet
is
it
of them
either
equally well
to
them
as
of the lay
dress
would preclude
This, of course,
worshippers.
not straining the
to regard
the
1
the
supposition that they deal with any special ritual
The
observance. translated into
second of these quotations,
if
homely nineteenth-century language,
resolves itself into a simple but strong injunction
to
all
worshippers (not the minister only) to wear
their
Sunday
stress
on the passage
its
clothes.
testimony
is
Mr
Marriott lays great
in the letter against Pelagius
one of the strongest arguments
which he can bring forward to support that
was
it
his thesis,
specially appointed, in the primitive
church, that white vestments (something like the
modern
surplice) should be
But Jerome does not
worn by
say,
*
Is
the minister.
God
displeased
because the officers of the church dressed Candida veste
but
?'
were so
'
would God be displeased if they The entire passage is hypo-
vested.^'
and nothing is more clear than Jerome was not contemplating any hard and thetical
;
that fast
rules.
We tine
may
dismiss the passage
from the Clemen-
Liturgy with very few words.
which the
ritualists translate
Greek always means
'
'
Aa^irpog^
splendid,' in classical
bright, brilliant, radiant,'*
* See Liddell and Scott, Greek Lexicon,
edit,
and
maj., sub
20 is
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
applied in
Homer to
the sun and stars.
applied, in the sense of
indeed,
we
'
It is also
white clothes
bright,' to
find in Polybius^ {flor, circa
150
;
B.C.)
this very phrase, Xajnirpa kaQiK, equivalent to the
Roman
vigorous
'
sonorous
(of
'
'munificent,'
it
should
the
(of
'
action), *
*
manifest,'
'
'
fresh,
illustrious,'
(generally,
in
health, dress, language, etc.);
we
never wears the definite meaning which expect
were
the
word intended
The
applied to a definite vesture.
of the Clementine Liturgy robe,
clean
voice),
'splendid'
joyous,'
outward appearance, but
Other meanings are *limpid'
/^^<^ Candida.
water),
(of
clusively
ecclesiastical
white linen cloth
Anglican
in
is,
no more an
but
'
kM^q
short, a bright,
article
than
nature
be
to
Xa^iTrpa
is
of an exthe
fair
'
with which the rubric of the
Communion
Service directs the altar to
be covered.
Another
passage,
somewhat
later in date,
may
be
cited as a type of a large class of passages very apt
to
mislead
credulous
too
students.
It
the
is
Gaulish description of St Berignus cited by Lipo-
manus (de 1
58
1,
vol.
Vitis vi,
p.
Ed.
Sancton, 4),
'
Surius,
Venice,
quendam hominem
Vidi
peregrinum, capite tonso, cujus habitus
differt
habitu nostro, vitaque eius nostrae dissimilis
The
context, however,
not religious, dress
is
makes
it
intended.
* Polyb., 10,
5,
I.
ab
est.'
plain that secular,
The Genesis of Ecclesiastical Vestments. 21
And when we
refer to
the few early frescoes
and mosaics which have come down to us from the primitive epoch,
we
find ecclesiastics, apostles,
and Our Lord Himself, represented as habited in the tunic and toga or pallium of Roman everyday life.
We gather, therefore, from
these scattered shreds
of evidence that, during the first centuries of the Christian church, no vestments were definitely apart
set
who
the
for
exclusive
of the
use
officiated at Divine service
:
clergy
that clergy and
people wore the same style of vesture both
in
church and out, subject only to the accidental distinctions of quality and cleanliness.
Fashion
dress
in
or
ornament
is
subject
to
constant changes which, though perhaps individually trifling, in time
tions
amount to complete revolu-
but the devotees of any religion, true or
;
by nature conservative of its doctrines Combined with the conclusions or observances. at which we have just arrived, these two universally false,
are
recognised statements yield us presumptive evidence
of the truth of the theory which views the civil
dress
as
ecclesiastical first
slowly while
true
costume.
Roman
progenitor of mediaeval
We
have seen
that
at
wore the same costume Fashion would worship and at home. change unchecked from year to year,
the
both at
the
worshippers
ecclesiastical
conservatism
would
retard
22
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
such changes so far as they concerned the dress
worn
Divine service
at
small differences
:
between
would
everyday
dress
and the dress of the worshipper, and these
differ-
spring
into
existence
ences, at first
the
as
process
hardly perceptible, would increase
went on,
two
the
till
styles
of
costume became sharply distinguished from one another.
wanting to show that
Parallel cases are not is
random
not altogether mere
this
For
theorizing.
example, the ministers of the Reformed Church of
Holland maintained,
comparatively recently, a
till
picturesque fashion of dress over a century old,
which they wore only when conducting Divine service.^
may
Perhaps, however, the objection
be urged against this view of the case, that process were such as
we have
described,
it
if
the
should
apply as weJl to the worshippers as to the minister
:
that they, as well as he, should wear service-robes. It
is
possible that this
would
actually have been
the case had the church services maintained their
most primitive form,
Paul describes
as St
First Epistle to the Corinthians
together, every one of
you hath
doctrine, hath a tongue,
an
interpretation
;
'
f
' :
When
in the
it
ye
a psalm,
come
hath a
hath a revelation, hath
that
is,
had
all
the wor-
shippers maintained an equally prominent position * See Chapter VI. t
I
Cor. xiv 26.
T^he Genesis
of Ecclesiastical Vestments. 23
number to con-
instead of selecting one of their
At
duct their services.
it
was, the outstanding
position of the minister rendered
his
equipment
especially liable to such stereotyping as
we have
imagined. In the following chapter truth of this theory to a
we
test.
shall
submit the
If the genesis
of
ecclesiastical vestments actually took place in some
such manner as find
them
this,
then the vestments
bear conspicuous points of resemblance to the
costume of the
Roman
Christian centuries. this be so.
we
as
described in the earliest writers ought to
people during the
We shall
now
first
civil
three
inquire whether
CHAPTER
II.
THE EARLY DEVELOPMENT OF ECCLESIASTICAL VESTMENTS IN THE WESTERN CHURCH.
THE
last
chapter has carried us
down
the end of the fourth century a. d.
some time back been the
showing
signs of
the
For
Roman Empire had
disintegration.
three sons of Constantine had
imperial
to
power among themselves
;
Already
divided
the
but the rule
thus severed had again been united in the person
of Constantius.
In
Theodosius died, and
395, left
to be parted between his
however, the emperor the empire of the world
two
sons,
Arcadius and
Honorius.
would be outside our scope to enter into the details of the far-reaching consequences of this It
great event.
For our present purpose
it
is
suf-
ficient to state that, with the empire in which it had been born and nurtured, the church was divided into two parts, which were thenceforth to
Early Development of Vestments,
now
develop independently, widely divergent It will
in
25
now
parallel,
in
lines.
be convenient to regard the
chapter
first
as dealing with the period
between the institution of Christianity and the partition of the Roman Empire ; and in the present chapter to discuss the interval between the latter event
We
of Charles the Great. history
into
and the accession
thereby divide
the
two epochs of approximately four
centuries each, with characteristics sufficiently well
marked
to
from
one
distinguish
Following Marriott, we
shall
name
the
the
other.
first
primitive, the second the transitional period.
the
We
have seen that there is no evidence that vestments of any definite form were prescribed for use during the former epoch we shall see in the present ;
chapter
how
vestment-usage rapidly developed in
the churches of the
West
till it
culminated
in the
gorgeous enrichment of medieval times.
Although the difi-erences between the vestments of the Western and the Eastern churches consist largely in matters of detail, they are sufficiently
conspicuous,
and
their
histories
are
sufficiently
divergent, to render their independent treatment advisable.
We
shall therefore
cussion of the latter
evolution
and
till
postpone the
we have
subsequent
dis-
investigated the
elaboration
of
the
former.
The empire
to which
Honorius succeeded con-
26
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
of
sisted
Gaul, and Britain.
Italy, Spain,
the evidence which
Although
extant does not permit us to
is
trace completely the history of vestments through-
out this period, yet from scattered documents
we
are able to see that for the most part the develop-
ment of ecclesiastical costume proceeded on the same lines throughout this vast area. Ritual
matters of dress
in
Pope
growing.
Celestine,
had rapidly been
who occupied
the
Roman
See from 423 a
till 432, found it necessary to write sharp letter to the Bishops of Vienne and Nar-
bonne
for
stitious
*
devoting themselves rather to super-
observances
heart and faith.'
in
dress than
Certain monks,
to it
purity of
appears, had
attained to episcopal rank, but had retained their ascetic costume.
Some of
very striking in
this
they
primarily
refer
cannot but think
Celestine's sentences are
connection to
that, in
;
out-door
and although costume,
we
when
the
a later age,
regulations governing the ritual uses of vestments
had been formulated, and the vestments themselves had been elaborated to their ultimate form, the force of his words
modified. says,
*
'By
dressing in a cloak [pallium'],' he
and by girding themselves with a
they think to the
would have been somewhat
fulfil
girdle,
the truth of Scripture, not in
but in the
letter. For if these precepts were given to the end that they should be obeyed
spirit,
in this wise,
why do
they not likewise that which
Early Develop?nent of Vestments.
T^he follows,
and carry burning
as well
as their pastoral staves
distinguished from the others,
all
we
shall
should be
people, or from
not by our clothing
life,
of our
if
we begin
;
by
by the by the cut of our
minds, not
For
garments.
We
?
common
hands
their
by our learning, not by our dress
our habit of purity
lights in
27
;
to introduce novelties,
trample under foot the usage which our
down
fathers have handed
to us, and give place to
vain superstitions/
The
fullest
ments during
information on the subject of vestthis period
comes from Spain,
in the
oft-quoted acts of the fourth council of Toledo,
which
sat
Seville
in
under the presidency of St Isidore of
Of
the year G^Z-
were drawn up
at this
the canons which
council that which
highest importance in this inquiry eighth, although
is
it
vestment-usage.
It
is
is
of the
the twenty-
not directly connected with
provides
the
for
cleric
who had
order,
and ordains that such a one,
case
of a
been unjustly degraded from his
innocent in a subsequent synod,
'
if
he be found
cannot be rein-
stated in his former position unless he regain his lost dignities
bishop.
before the altar, at the hands of a
If he be
a
ovarium,^ ring, and * Throughout
words
this
orariu7n, planeta
bishop, he staff;
chapter
and alba
translations 'stole,' 'chasuble,'
must
receive the
if a priest, the I
orarium
have retained the Latin
in preference
and
'alb,'
to
when
the English treating of
;
:
28
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
and planeta
if a
;
deacon, the ovarium and alba
subdeacon, the paten and chaHce, and similarly
if a
for the other orders
— they must
on
receive,
their
on their ordi-
restoration, whatever they received
nation.'*
On
the principle which
but universal, that
is all
the clergy of the higher orders added the insignia
of the lower orders to those of their own,
we
are
enabled by the help of this act to draw up a table
of the vestments recognised in Spain, which shows glance the manner in which they were dis-
at a
among
tributed
the different orders of clergy
worn by all alike. : worn by deacons, priests, and Planeta : worn by priests and bishops.
^/i?a
:
Orarium
Ring and
Some
staff : exclusively for bishops.
letters
of Gregory the Great (Bishop of
Rome 590-604)
give us particulars relating
The two
the vestments of the early church.
and
tical,
bishops.
convenient to have
it is
a short
to
are not iden-
method of
distin-
guishing one from the other.
*
*
Episcopus presbyter aut diaconus
si
a
gradu suo iniuste
delectus in secunda synodo innocens reperiatur esse
quod fuerat
manu si
episcopi
;
nisi (si
episcopus) orarium
presbyter orarium ct planetam
albam
;
si
subdiaconus patenam
;
et
si
annulum
perceperunt.'
MS., but
potest
et
baculum
;
diaconus orarium et
calicem
gradus ea in reparationem sui recipiant quae
the
non
gradus amissos recipiat coram altario de
;
sic
cum
et reliqui
ordinarentur
[The bracketed words have dropped out from their restoration
is
certain and necessary.]
The Early Development of Vestrnents.
29
three other vestments not in general use throughout the church. These are the dalmatica, the
and the pallium.
7nappula,
MS.
Lastly, an
anonymous
of uncertain date* enumerates the pallium,
manualia^
casula, as
the vestments
It
is
vestimentwm,
worn
in
the Gallican Church.
be regretted that
to
and stola
alba,
none of the British
authors of the period have preserved any record
of contemporary vestment -usage in this country; we have, however, no reason to suppose that it
from that of the Continent.
differed
now
Let us order,
able
and
upon
take each of the above vestments in whatever information is obtain-
collect
appearance and history, comparing its supposed Roman prototype.
their
each in turn with I.
The Alba.
form of the
—This
word
the
is
abbreviated
name, tunica
full
flowing
tunic
alba, by which a of white linen was denoted. It
appears
that
the
first
use
of this word
technical term for a special robe
is
in a
of Trebellius Pollio (in Claud., xiv,
MS.
is
vol. v,
p.
* This
dotorum, in
Marriott's work,
edited
86 p.
monastery of St Martin tene
the
to
Marriott
As
is
sixth
in
et seq.,
Autun, and
century,
is
which
who
Thesaurus Anecare
made from in
assigned by
it
the
Mar-
though on doubtful grounds.
probably correct in referring
the vestments
passage
xvii),
The MS. was found
204. at
Martene's
and extracts
a
as
it
to
the tenth.
describes rather resemble those of the final period than of the transitional, we reserve its dis-
cussion
till
it
the following chapter.
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
30
speaks of an alha suhserica^ mentioned in a letter sent from Valerian to Zosimio, Procurator of Syria,
In the 41st canon of the
about 260-270 A.D.
400 a.d.)* we word in an ecclesi-
fourth council of Carthage {circa
meet with the
first
use of this
connection, in one of the earliest (if not
astical
the earliest) regulations ever passed to
This ordains that the
ritual usage of vestments.
deacon
govern the
wear an alha only ^tempore ohla-
shall
tantum vel lectionis'
tionis
constant evidence of contemporary pictures
The
was
indicates that the alha
In this respect
vesture.
a long, full, and flowing differed from the
it
Mosaic
on the one hand, and the mediaeval alb on
tunic,
Both these vestments
the other.
fitted closely to
the body for reasons of convenience, for a flowing tunic would obviously in the discharge
not
it
was overlaid
Levitical priest
sacrificial duties,
and would
under the vestments with
comfortably
sit
which
of his
hamper the
in mediaeval times.
Nearly two centuries after the fourth council of Carthage
we
find the first council of
(a.d. 589) enacting that
deacon, nor yet the off his alba
till
*
neither deacon nor sub-
lector,
after
Narbonne
mass
shall is
presume to put
over.'f
To
this
* Labbe, Sacrosancta Concilia (1671), vol. ii, col. 1203. t Nee diaconus aut subdiaconus certe vel lector ante*
quam
missa
Narb.,
i,
—
consummetur alba se prassumat exuere.' Concil. vol. v, col. 1030 (misprinted 1020).
Labbe,
The Early Development of Vestments, canon, which was clearly framed to check
3
some
tendency to irregularity that had become noticeable in the celebration of mass, we are indebted for two facts first, that ritual usage in vestments was now firmly established and second, that the alba was the dress of the minor orders of clergy. This latter point is not clearly brought out in the :
;
Toletan canon already quoted.
Of the garments worn in everyday life by the Roman citizen, the innermost was the tunica talaris, or long tunic. usually of
This
wool
reached to the
;
it
feet,
to the ankles') being
article of dress was white, was passed over the head and
the epithet talaris
employed
('
reaching
to distinguish
the tunic of ceremony, from the short tunics
when freedom was required fitted tolerably closely
It
was
sufficiently
it.
The
it,
as
worn
for active exertion.'"'^
to the body,
though
it
loose to require a girdle to confine
tunics of senators and equites were dis-
tinguished by
two bands of
purple, in the former
case broad {lati clavi), in the latter
narrow {angusti which passed from the sides of the aperture the head down to the lower hem of the
clavi),
for
garment.
A
comparison of the
with the
remarkable *
It
was
ecclesiastical
tunica alba
tunica talaris will bring out some points of resemblance. Both were
civil
also possible
for this purpose.
and usual
to gird
up the tunica
talaris
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
32 worn feet
;
in the is
it
same manner, and both reached to the true that the ecclesiastical dress was
slightly fuller as
than the
civil,
but this was necessary,
room was required underneath
wearer's everyday dress. astics
the alba for the
Further,
we
find ecclesi-
represented in ancient frescoes wearing albae
which actually show ornaments disposed like the clavi of the tunica talaris. These clavi were early
employed by the Christians to distinguish, by their relative width, the representations of Our Lord from those of the Apostles, or to discriminate between the figures of ecclesiastics of different orders. It is also
important to notice that the alba
is
invariably furnished with tight sleeves reaching to
the wrist.
garment
;
The
tunic was originally a sleeveless
but with the growth of luxury, a
new
kind provided with sleeves gradually came into favour.
These two forms of
guished by different names
:
tunic were distin-
the older or sleeveless
tunic was called colobium^ a Latinization of the
Greek name /coXojSioi/ ;* and the latter or sleeved tunic was named tunica manicata or tunica dalmatica^ from the name of the province to which its invention was ascribed.
In the early days of
Rome
the use of a tunica
dalmatica stamped the wearer with the stigma of The effeminacy and utter want of self-respect. '''
Derived from the adjective ko\o/36s,
docked, curtailed, in
reference to the shortened sleeves of the garment.
Early Development of Vestments.
T^he
33
parents of Cornelius Scipio and of Fabius are said
them
to have openly disgraced as a
punishment ad
pelling
The
them to appear all
com-
public in this attire.
Elaga-
persons of good taste by coming
the people in the same costume
out before
all
the
impudently
latter
in
emperors Commodus and
despicable
balus offended
boyhood,
in their
corrigendos mores, by
another
himself
calling
:
Scipio or Fabius, in reference to the incident just
mean
This, however, cannot
related.*
that the
scandal lay in the adoption of the luxurious tunica
dalmatica in preference to the colohium (for
Rome
time of Elagabalus was too deeply steeped and vice to feel shocked at an Emperor luxury in merely preferring an under-garment with sleeves in the
to one without those appendages)
outer dress, over
In
it
rather con-
put on his 'pallium, or
sisted in his neglecting to it.
;
dalmatica
fact, the tunica
must have quite ousted its severer favour by the time of Elagabalus :
rival in
we
for
popular
find that
in 258, only thirty-six years after the death
of that
emperor, St Cyprian of Carthage wore a tunica dalmatica,
over which was
a
hyrrhus, or cloak,
when led out to martyrdom. f
It
is
absurd to
suppose that Cyprian, on such a solemn occasion, * Lampridius
in
Commodo,
cap. viii
;
in
Elagab.,
cap.
xxvi. t col.
Acta
S
Cyp., prop.
Jin.
(Migne, Patrologia,
1504).
3
vol.
iii,
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
34
would have assumed a merely luxurious garment, and equally absurd to imagine that he would have worn ecclesiastical vestments at the time, as some commentators on the passage have held. There remains only one other alternative that the tunica dalmatic a was the form of tunic which was
—
and
in regular use at the time,
seems quite
this
satisfactory hypothesis.
the most
The most important mention of dalmatica in connection with is
the
tunica
ecclesiastical
matters
Bishop of Rome,
the decree of Sylvester,
in
That
253-257.
'that deacons
prelate ordained
should use the dalmatica in the church, and that their left hands should be covered with a cloth
and
of mingled wool
supplement
this
author of the tract
De
'
Divinis
dalmaticae was instituted by
Officiis,'
that
us
anonymous
the
thus,
;
to Alcuin, tells
attributed
Various authors
linen.'*
passage
Pope
*
formerly
the use of
Sylvester, for
previously colohia had been worn.'f
Much decree.
It
regarded as an additional and in-
is
proof that
controvertible *
Ut
*
diaconi
linostimo laeva
ecclesiastical
Dalmatica uterentur
eorum
de Vit. Pontif.,
been attached to this
has
importance
tegeretur.'
§ 35 (S Sylv.)
;
in
ecclesia et pallio
— Anastasius Migne,
vestments
Bibliothecarius
Patrol., vol. cxxvii,
J514.
t tutus
'
Usus autem Dalmaticarum est:
de Div.
nam
Off., cap.
a
B. Sylvestro
antea colobiis utebantur.'
xxxix
;
Migne,
Papa
insti-
— Pseudo-Alcuin
vol. ci, 1243.
The Early Development of Vestments, were
in use
the
in
primitive
examination, however,
will
it
35
But on
church.
be found no more
to bear such a construction than St Paul's request for his f^aiKovx). The ordinance merely shows that Sylvester had a laudable desire
to improve
the
of public worship, and, with this end in view, decreed that thenceforward ecclesiastics aesthetics
should quite
all
wear the tunica dalmatica
outgrown
early
its
must be admitted
evil
— which
reputation,
had and
to have been a better-lookino-
garment than the scanty and somewhat undignicolobium.
fied
many of
not at
is
all
improbable that
the clergy wore dalmaticae even before
Sylvester's
have
It
the
edict
in
:
this
the edict
case
would
additional advantage of securing uni-
formity.
All
attempts
to
set
up the dalmatica
separate vestment in early times It
is
unknown
to
fail
the drafters of
as
a
hopelessly.
the
Toletan
canons, and no early representation of an ecclesiastic is extant having two vestments visible under the
planeta*
This would certainly be the case if the two were independent vestments. It is true that
St
Isidore
of Seville wrote,
Dalmatica vestis Dalmatia provincia Graecia texta est sacerdotalis, Candida cum clavis ex purpura
primum
'
in
;'t
(the dalmatica
is
a priestly
* This does not apply t
Etymologiae,
lib.
vestment
to the city
xix, cap. xxii
of Rome.
first
made
See
p. 54.
(Migne, Ixxxii 635).
in
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
36
Dalmatia, a province of Greece, white with purple clavi) ; but the concluding words show that he
was merely thinking of the alba under its more specific name, dalmatic a, A brief recapitulation of this somewhat lengthy
argument may not be out of
may
of tunic
sleeveless colobium
ultimately
decree of siastics
Pope
under
Roman
people
and the sleeved dalmatica. gained
the
finally
victory
assume
established
Now, when we
find
centuries
after Sylvester's
worn by
ecclesiastics
its
that,
time,
—
the
The
and the
;
commanding
Sylvester,
his authority to
of the former, church.
forms
be said to have contended one with
another for the favour of the
latter
Two
place.
all it
eccle-
in place
use in the
two or three vestment was
a
Divine service identical
in
with the tunica dalmatica in almost every respect,
even to the presence of the clavi^ which (in the secular dress) indicated the rank of the wearer, it is
only natural to regard the one as directly derived
from the other. There is one other point of importance
in the
history of this vestment in the transitional period. It
was found that such
alba
seriously
a flowing
incommoded the
garment priest
as the
on some
occasions, particularly in administering baptism by
immersion. to the
and
is
Accordingly, an alba fitting closely
body was invented
for use
represented in certain
on such occasions,
MS.
illuminations,
T^he
Early Development of Vestments,
particularly a ninth-century pontifical
Minerva Library
St
Rome.
at
portance of this point
is
The
due to the
now
in the
special
fact
i^j
im-
that this
baptismal alba was probably the immediate parent
of the mediaeval alb
;
the closer vestment being
found more convenient on other occasions as well as that of baptism, and having gradually become
Fig.
adopted
2.— a Bishop administering Baptism.
in all the other offices
of the Church as
well. II.
The 07'arium.
name by which trouble
to
it
—Both
this
vestment and the
was known have given much
scholars.
The
following
list
of the
various derivations which have been suggested for the is
word orarium (arranged
not uninteresting
:
in order
of probability)
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
38 1.
Ora, because used to wipe the
2.
Orare, because used in prayer.
3.
wpa, because
it
face.
indicated the time of the different parts
of the service. 4.
iopaL^€Lv,
5.
Ora
6.
6/)a(o,
because the deacon was beautified with
it.
because (alleged to have been) originally
(a coast),
the edging of a lost garment.
because the
or deacon
siglt
of
it
was ministering
There can be
little
indicated whether a priest (!).
doubt that the
first
is
the
more or less employed certainly fanciful and the orarium was Ambrose speaks of the face originally as a scarf of the dead Lazarus being bound with an orarium; and Augustine uses the same word to indicate a bandage employed to tie up a wounded eye. Numerous effigies of late date are extant which true etymology.
The
others are
all
;
exhibit
a
kind of
scarf,
over the
passing
left
shoulder diagonally downwards to the right side,
As
and fastened under the right arm.
Albertus
Rubenius long ago pointed out, these scarves must not be confused with the clavi which ornamented the tunics of senators and equites
;
for they are
worn over the pallium^ or outer garment, and are disposed in a manner quite different from that in which the clavi
What,
fall.
then, are these scarves
this question
is
The answer
}
to
supplied by Flavius Vopiscus in his
Life of Aurelian, who, he says,
grant oraria to the
Roman
'
was the
people, to be
first
to
worn
as
Early Development of Vestments.
'The
Now,
favours/"^
made
just
mention
quoted
the references which we have
Ambrose and Augustine
to
which
others
39
might
— not
to
well
be
equally
— show that the oraria, whatever may have
been the method in which they were worn, must have been narrow strips of some kind of cloth.
These peculiar scarves, which are certain
monuments, do not appear on any
dating before the time of Aurelian inference, therefore,
on
to be seen
effigy
the natural
;
that the scarves which
is
we
see thus represented are actually the oraria^ granted
Roman
people by that emperor
and his argument be not valid, then it is impossible to say either what these scarves really are, or what was the true appearance of the civil the
to
If this
successors.
ovarium. It
is
probable that considerable laxity existed in
the manner of wearing the ecclesiastical orarium, for
the
of
Council
fourth
Toledo
thought
it
necessary to enact a special canon to regulate the
method
The
in
which
fortieth
number of
this
act
vestment should be disposed.
of this
or aria to one,
assembly
restricts
the
and enjoins that deacons
should wear the orarium over the
left
shoulder,
leaving the right side free so as to facilitate the * 'Sciendum
Romano
.
.
.
ilium
.
,
.
primum
donasse oraria populo
quibus uteretur populus ad favorem.'
in Aur., 48.
—
Flav.
Vop.
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
40
execution of their duties in Divine
This
service.'"*
act also provides that the diaconal ovarium should
be plain, not ornamented with gold or embroidery. will
It
be
noticed
that
this
Toletan council
favoured the derivation of the word or avium from or are.
The wearing
of the ov avium was
flirther
still
regulated by two of the councils which met at
The
Braga.
decreed province
second council of Braga (563 a.d.) that since in some churches of this '
the
deacons wear
their
hidden
ovavia
under the tunic, so that they cannot be
distin-
guished from the subdeacons, for the future they
must be placed over "*
tero
'
quidem
Orariis duobus nee episcopo
uti
Unum
;
magis diacono qui
quanto
igitur
The
their shoulders. 'f
licet
fourth
nee presby-
minister eorum
orarium oportet Levitam gestare
est.
sinistro
in
huraero propter quod orat, id est, praedicat ; dextram autem partem oportet habere liberam ut expeditus ad ministerium
Caveat
sacerdotale discurrat.
sed uno tantum et puro nee
igitur
ullis
amodo gemino
uti orario
eoloribus aut auro ornato.'
Aeta Coneil. Tolet. IV, cap. xl. This rule does not seem to have been always obeyed. the Pontifical of Landulfus (ninth century) there sentation of an ecclesiastic wearing
shoulder. t
*
two
Item placuit ut quia
in
aliquantis
II,
one over each
differre a
huius provlnciae
tunicam utuntur
cap. ix
:
orariis
subdiacono videantur de cetero super-
posito scapulae (sieut decet) utantur orario.'
Braear.
In
a repre-
This, however, must be regarded as exceptional.
ecclesiis diacones {sic) absconsis infra ita ut nihil
oraria,
is
Labbe,
vol. v, col.
841.
— Acta Coneil. The
eleventh
1
The Early Development of Vestments. council
made an
A.D.)
(675
4
important decree
regulating the wearing of the orarium by priests,
The which has been since followed universally. vestment was to be passed round the neck, over each shoulder, crossed in front, and secured in this position under the girdle of the alba.^
enactment of importance is that of the council of Mayence (813 a.d.), which ordered that priests should wear their oraria 'without
The
last
intermission.'t
canon ordained
non
ornati
*
'
ut
Icctores in ecclcsia in habitu saeculari
psallant.'
antiqua ecclesiastica noverimus institutione prae-
*Cum
fixum ut omnis sacerdos
ambiatur
;
cum
ordinatur orario utroque
humero
scilicet ut qui imperturbatus praecipitur consistere
inter prospera et adversa,
virtutum semper ornamento utro-
bique circumseptus appareat
:
qua ratione tempore
sacrificii
in sacramento accepisse non dubitatur
? non assumat, quod se percepit quisque quod ut convenit omnibus Proinde modis
in consecratione,
sude
salutis
hoc
;
accedit aut pro se
Deo
corporis et sanguinis
non
aliter
et retentet in oblatione, vel
scilicet ut
accedat,
septus, sicut et
cum
perceptione
sacerdos ad sollennia missarum
sacrificium oblaturus, aut sacramentum
Domini Nostri Jesu
quam
orario
Christi sumpturus,
utroque humero circum-
tempore ordinationis suae dignoscitur consecra-
uno eodemque orario cervicem pariter et utrumque humerum premens, signum in suo pectore praeSi quis autem aliter egerit excommunication! ferat crucis. turus
ita
:
debitae
ut dc
subiacebit.'
— Concil.
Bracar. IV, cap.
iv
:
Labbe,
vol. vi, coll. 564, 565.
f
'
Presbyteri
sine
intermissione
utuntur orariis propter
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
42 The
orarium^ then, was a narrow strip of cloth,
disposed about the persons of the clergy in various
manners according to their rank. sponded
To
it
corre-
name, shape, and method of disposi-
in
common among
garment
Romans, though admittedly rather an honourable ornament than an actual article of clothing. Yet when we remember how the clavi were employed to disa
tion,
tinguish rank
may
fact
among
the
the earlier clergy, this latter
be regarded as strengthening the evidence
of identity which the correspondence features affords.
be discussed
will
in all salient
Some other theories of its origin when we have treated of the
pallium.
The Planeta.
III.
Roman
days of the
was recognised
as
was the
citizen
— In
the
earlier
and purer
people, the dress which alone
proper
the
toga.
costume for the
This was one of the most
inconvenient and cumbrous articles of dress ever
invented
—
thrown
in
a great
oblong cloth,
shoulder, folded in front,
the
We
feet.
when
that,
fifteen feet
by
ten,
manner over the left and hanging loose about
complicated
a
can hardly feel surprised at finding
the
citizens
came
to regard comfort
before appearances to such an extent as to adopt sleeved
tunics,
difFerentiam xxviii
:
a
more convenient form of
sacerdotis dignitatis.'
Labbe,
vol. vii, col.
1249.
— Concil.
Mogunt.
this
cap.
The Early Development of Vestments.
43
There were three new* garment, each of which has
outdoor costume was adopted. of this
varieties
own name
its
these were the paenula, the casula^
;
and the planeta.
The paenula was
a
garment which
in the early
days of the Republic was allotted to slaves. slave '
wearing this dress
Mostellaria
'
(IV
iii
Indeed,
of Plautus.
51)
according to Julius Pollux ('Onomasticon,' the dramatist Rhinthon,
A
introduced into the
is
who
vii
61),
lived in the fourth
century b.c, introduced a mention of this garment into his
Iphigeneia in Tauris,' a fact which would
'
seem to indicate that the dress was much older than
own
his
time,
as
otherwise
his
audience
would be unfavourably impressed by the anachron-
Numerous allusions
ism.
show
that
because
it
of
in classical
was adopted
its
warmth
travelling
dress
comparative
con-
a
as
and
Latin authors
venience ^^ but on no account was it worn within the walls of the city. Gradually, however, the use
of the garment
(222-235
spread,
A.D.), as
till
Lampridius
Alexander Severus tells us,
permitted
elders to wear the paenula within the city in cold * Or, garment.
to speak
The
more
accurately,
the lower classes, being cheap and t
Though
it
new
adaptation of an old
paenula, for instance, had long
was by no means adapted
See Cicero, pro Milone, capp.
been worn by
warm.
x, xx.
to active exertion.
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
44
though at the same time he forbade women to do so except when on a journey.* The casula was a poor and inferior variety of weather,
the paenula^ which,
when
promoted
the latter was
to be the
costume of senators and emperors, suc-
ceeded
as the
it
garb of the poorer
meaning of the name
original
a diminutive of casa
to guide us
garment which
—and
there
body
but
;
it
is
it
was early adopted
it
monks would
was made
it
The
fact that
dress of
as the distinctive
lead us to this conclusion
tions
as a dress
it
monastic habit
later,
it.
Monachorum,
whose ;
The
i
7) men-
price prevents its use as
and
expressly forbids
wear
to
;
is
Cassianus (De Habitu
a
St
Isidore,
members of
two centuries
religious orders
must therefore have
planeta
been more costly than the casula^ and, as it
lead
beyond no reason for supposing that it differed outline from the paenula. Thtplaneta first appears in the fifth century a.d.
this there
in
of the
enveloped the
probable that
of coarser and cheaper material.
'
evidence
little
is
The name would
denoted.
it
us to infer that, like the paeniila, entire
house
to the exact appearance
as
The
classes.
little
*
is
mentioned ^
*
in the sixth
Paenulis intra
permisit,
quum
aut pluviae.
urbem
frigoris causa
id vestimenti genus
Matrones tamen
in itinere permisit.'
intra
— Lamprid.
we
find
century as the dress of
in
lit
senes uterentur
semper itineranum
urbem paenulis
fuisset
uti vetuit,
Alex. Sev., cap. xxvii.
Early Development of Vestments.
T'he
nobles and of senators,
45
was probably the most
it
expensive of the three.
The general shape Roman paintings or
of the garment, effigies,
is
as
shown
that of a
in
cloak
enveloping the body, sewn in front, and put on
by being passed over the head, for which a suitable aperture was provided. And this shape is identical with the outer vestment which we see in early
The
representations of clerics.
was
early adopted, that
modification which
of making the vestment
oval in form, so as to lessen the width over the
shoulders and
so
to give
more freedom
to the
arms, was obviously regulated by convenience.
Thus we have seen that the three principal vestments, as we find them detailed in the earliest and depicted
lists
in
the earliest monuments, are
identical in shape, disposition,
Roman
civil
costume
century of the Christian
in
of
and name with the second
the
or
third
era.
Three additional vestments are found enumerated the letters of St Gregory the Great and else-
where which were not worn universally throughout the church, but were either carefully confined to the clergy of the city of the
gift,
Rome
itself or
so to speak, of the Pope.
These
were in are the
pallium^ the mappula^ and the dalmatica. I.
is
The
F allium. — In
classical
Latin this word
used either as the equivalent of toga or in the
general sense
of the English
*
robe.'
It
is
also
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
46 used in the
earlier ecclesiastical writers
of the casula^
or coarse outer garment of monks, as in the passage from Celestine quoted on p. 26. Yet another use
Fig.
3.
the Mosaics Ravenna (Sixth Century).
Ecclesiastics from
in S Vitale,
of the word pallium is found in the expression pallium linostimum, which denoted a cloth, the use
of
which was
ordained
to
deacons
by Pope
—
;
The
'Early
we
Sylvester, as
Development of Vestments,
when
shall presently see
47
discussing
the maniple.
The in
its
ment
pallimn^
when used by
ecclesiastical writers
proper and restricted sense, denotes an ornaspecially
earliest
form
is
appropriated to archbishops.
shown
Its
the Ravenna mosaics
in
that of a narrow strip of cloth, passed over the left
shoulder, looped loosely round the neck, and
then passed over the
shoulder again, so that
left
the two ends hang free, one in front, the other
This method of
behind.
seems
disposition
to
indicate an identity of origin with the ovarium
indeed,
it
is
sometimes
to
difficult
distinguish
between these vestments in early representations.
A
desire for
symmetry, probably, decided the next
step in its evolution
;
this
consisted in bringing
the free end to the middle and knotting the
lowest
point
exemplified in
of
the
loop
or tenth century.
From
The
find
ninth,
times was
in later
and the two are found contemporaneously. final form which will be more fully de-
—
scribed in the third chapter
loop with a long that
eighth,
into
this the transition to the
form which became universal easy,
we
this
:
monuments of the
it
when
tail
—
is
that of an oval
pendent from
the ornament
is
the appearance of a capital
in position
Y on
its
ends, so
it
presents
the front and on
the back.
The
early history of this
vestment
is
involved
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
48
As
in deep obscurity.
already hinted,
it
improbably a modification of the ovarium there
is
not
;
but
no evidence, further than general outward
is
resemblance, that this
actually the case
is
there any apparent reason for archbishops.
The
its
;
nor
appropriation to
question must remain open
further research either reveals
is
till
the missing links
in the chain of connection, or elicits
some more
satisfactory solution of the question.
The
idea of
pallium
Dr Rock,
viewed as
is
tion of the
Roman
'
according to which the
the true and only representa-
toga,'
He
thinks that the toga,
the
left
most unsatisfactory. which was folded over is
shoulder, under the right arm, over the
right shoulder, and again over the left shoulder, '
dwindled down to
much was
the same
a
way
;
the early pallium.
posed
mere broad band,' folded and that this broad band
The
evolution here sup-
however, most unnatural
is,
it
stitution
of Christianity
and
— much
less
Ravenna mosaics
when
ecclesiastical
ment began latter
was
date
itself
;
there
is
not
to have taken place between the in-
time for
;
the
date
of
the
between the time
vestments and
their
develop-
to receive special attention and the
the toga, as
practically
we have already seen, when Christianity
obsolete
began to make itself felt, and still further removed from the current fashion of the time at which archbishops began
to
require distinguishing in-
The Early Development of Vestments.
49
signia; and, lastly, the connecting links between
the blanket at one end and the narrow strip of cloth at the other, which Dr Rock adduces and figures, are too
few in number to be convincing,
and quite explicable on other grounds, such
as the
unskilfulness of the ancient artist
—
error
a
source of
fruitful
in
archaeological
re-
search. It
not
is
the
that
inconceivable
sought in
the
orariuyn, '
favours
people
is
the
to be
honourable
distributed as the
to
'
in
;
of
origin
honourable -pallium
Roman
which case we
must seek elsewhere
for a
prototype to the ecclesiastical
then idea,
ovarium, fall
*
We
should
back on the old
which has by no means
been disproved, that
in the
clavi of the tunica alba
is
to
be found the true original.
We
reproduce
Roman
citizen
here
4.-Effigy of a Roman in Caerleon Museum.
^'^'-
Citizen
a figure
at Caerleon,
of an efHgy of
a
near Newport, which
certainly seems to warrant this
view
;
seen a tunica, a clavus, and.'a paenula,
here all
is
to be
very sug-
4
;
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
50
and chasuble of later
gestive of the alb, stole,
Duchesne, regards
all
in
his
*
du
Origines
culte
times.
chretien,'*
the orarium-Y\^t vestments which appear
in contemporary
documents
as in reality pallia;
the ovarium proper he does not consider to have
been introduced
till
the
tenth
The
century.
ovarium which appears before this date he regards as
simply
a
napkin,
sudarium^
or
protect the alha.
He
fourth century the
civil
designed
to
further states that in the
law required
all
officials
some distinctive badge of office that the Eastern Church complied with this law throughout,
to wear
assigning the
;
kiriTpayriXiov^
respectively to bishop, priest,
and wpapiov
and deacon, while
the Western Church only complied with
to the
it
extent of assigning a pallium to the bishops.
We
argument does not appeal to us any more than the theory which regards confess that this elaborate
the stole as the orphrey of a degenerated vestment
but while professing our
own
belief in Marriott's
view, stated above (pp. 38-9), we have given these several theories, leaving it to the reader to make
own choice. From the earliest references which we can find, it is clear that his
first
regarded as a distinctive
* Quoted by the
Rev O.
J.
to
the pallium
was from the vestment to be worn it
Reichel
in
his
Liturgical Vestments in the Thirteenth Century
Hodges, 1895).
'
'
English
(London,
1
The Early Development of Vestments.
The
by archbishops only.*
5
archbishops of this
had not the right, any more than their mediaeval successors, of assuming the allium on f early period
consecration
their
;
was necessary
it
to
apply to
the Pope for a grant of the vestment, which was
only bestowed on the permission of the reigning sovereign being obtained.
The
earliest
document
unquestionably relating
to the bestowal of the of Pope Symmachus, bestowing the pallium on Theodore, Archbishop of Laureacus,
f allium
is
a letter
Pannonia,
in
514 A.D.f
Instances of the royal
assent being considered necessary are found in the letters
of Pope Vigilius,
who
delayed the grant of
the f allium to Archbishop Auxanius of Aries for two years, -pending the consent of Childebert I, King of the Franks ;J and in the letters of Pope
Gregory the Great,
who
at the request of Childe-
bert II bestowed the pallium on Virgilius, a later
Archbishop of the same province.^ In 866 Pope Nicholas I declared that no archbishop might be enthroned or might consecrate the Eucharist
till
he should receive the pallium
at the
hands of the Pope.|| * Some exceptions
to this rule will
be noticed in the next
chapter.
Symmachi Ep.
t
X Vigilii
Epp.
xii in
vi, vii in
Patrologia,' Ixii 72.
'
'
Patrologia,' Ixix 26, 27.
Gregorii Ep. v 53 ; * Patrologia,' Ixvii 783. sane interim in throno non sedentem et praeter corpus Christi non consecrantem priusquam pallium a sede §
'
II
.
.
.
.
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
52
The Mappilii.
II.
the
j//'j that
—We have seen
Rome
of
colobia
he
;
in discussing
Sylvester, in the middle of the
the
century, decreed that
third city
Pope
dalmaticae
substitute
should
charged
further
deacons of the
them
for
to wear a
It is clear gallium Unostimum on their hands. (little mappiiki that this cloth, as its proper name,
napkin), demonstrates, was designed to serve the
purpose of a handkerchief, either
utilitarian
wipe the Communion minister — probably
vessels
the
to
or the face of the
This
latter.*
cloth,
must early have become regarded a sacred vestment by its wearers, and the
as
however,
of the
clusive privilecre
Roman
ex-
wear
priests to
Attempts were made
was jealously guarded. bv the deacons of the neighbouring churches of Ravenna to assume the vestment, and St Gregory
it
found
it
necessary to
Romana
percipiar, sicuti
aliarum
regionum Papae
Nich.
I,
he did in
interfere, w^hich
Galliarum omnes
Archiepiscopi
et
Germaniae
et
comprobantur.'
agere
Responsa ad consulta Bulgar., cap.
Ixxiii,
Labbe, vol. viii, col. 542. ad fin. * The notion prevalent nowadays, that the mappula was :
exclusively intended to cleanse the sacred vessels,
bluntly negatived by
manu
St-
Ivo of Chartres
:
'
Unde
is
thus
in sinistra
ponitur quaedam mappula quae saepe fluentem oculorum
pituitam tergat et oculorum lippitridinem removeat,'
Amalarius of Metz
testifies
to the same effect
ad hoc portamus ut eo detergamus sudorem qui proprii corporis.'
:
And
'
Sudarium
fit
ex labore
The Fjarly Dei:elopment :^/>.
m-:
somewhat
recalcitant prelate,
John, the Bishop of Ravenna.
For the sake of
several letters to that
peace,
the
Gregory admitted
compromise whereby
a
deacons of Ravenna were allowed
principal
to wear the coveted
ornament
;
but the glamour
of carrying a vestment, however inconvenient,*
which was theoretically confined to the holy city itself,
proved too strong
a
temptation
privilege was
exclusive
admitted to a share in to prevent
its
for
the
Romans (whose
deacons of other places, while the
gone once Ravenna was it)
took no further steps
As
assumption.
a natural conse-
quence, the use of the vestment spread over the
whole of the Western Church, and by the time
when
the period at present engaging our attention
ended, had become universal. III.
The 'Dalmatica.
—We
at length into the history
vestment to which
it
of this word and of the
was
seem to have differed
have already entered
applied.
essentially
It
does not
from the alha
but it appears that twoj vestments were worn Rome, an all?a and a dalmatica, though it
;
at is
evident from the Toletan canons and other sources that at this
early period such was not the case
elsewhere.
In early pictures the two vestments
*
The
modifications which the discomfort of this
little
vestment necessitated will be described in the next chapter. t
Civil
dress
presented
parallel
cases
Augustus wore four tunics in cold weather.
:
the
Emperor
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
54
are rarely represented side
that the dalmatica
by
side
was so long
alba^ just as the dalmatic
as to conceal the
on mediaeval
Bishops often hides the tunicle. ever, to
probable
it is
;
seems,
It
of
effigies
how-
have been shown on the ancient picture of
Gregory the Great, described by Joannes Diaconus and we find that Gregory granted its use ;
to Bishop Aregius of
(Ep. ix the
107
:
vestments
Clearly the
Gap and
Migne, at
the
Ixxvii
to his
Archdeacon
1033), forwarding
same time
as
the letter.
Pope does not denote the alha by the
word dalmatica^ as we have seen St Isidore of for Aregius would naturally wear an
Seville do,
The vestment
alba without papal interference. in
question must, therefore, have been another,
resembling the alb in outline, but only worn either at
Rome
confer
The
or
by those on
whom
the
Pope saw
history of the spread of the dalmatica
time the third period begins we an
to
it.
independent vestment,
find
it
must
By
have been similar to that of the mappula.
as
fit
the
established
difi^ering
from
parent, the alba, in one important respect,
its
which
will be detailed in the following chapter.
Although not vestments in the strictest sense of we must not conclude this chapter without a brief notice of the two exclusively episcopal
the word,
insignia noticed in the canons of the fourth council
of Toledo, namely, the ring and
staff.
Rings have
Early Development of Vestments,
I'he
^^
been found in the tombs of bishops of the third This, however, proves nothing, as their
century.
use
among both
was universal
Nor
heathen.
can anything
definitely ecclesiastical
many
be tortured out of the
and
Christians
descriptive notices
which have come down to us of the rings in the of
possession
and
fourth,
individual fifth
of
bishops
the
Isidore
centuries.
third,
of Seville
600) lands us on firmer ground ; he dis' To the bishop at his consecration tinctly says {circa
:
is
given a staff ... a ring likewise
given him
is
to signify pontifical honour, or as a seal for secret
We
things.'"'
esoteric
the
need not, perhaps, discuss
meaning of the
gift as
here set forth
;
but
the fact clearly remains that by Isidore's time the gift
of a ring and a staff had become an essential
part of the
ceremony of
Toletan canon that time there it is
tells is
no
episcopal ordination.
The
Before
us the same thing.
clear indication of the gift
;
not mentioned in ordination services of earlier
than the sixth century, one of the oldest references to it being in the sacramentary of
date
Gregory the Great this
passage
is
{circa
rejected
590
a.d.)
and even
;
an interpolation by
as
Migne.f * Huic
dum
consecratur datur baculus
....
datur et
annulus propter signum pontificalis honoris vel signaculum secretorum. t
Ad
—
Isidorus de OfF. EccL,
annulum digito imponendam
lib. :
ii,
cap.
v.
Accipe annulum
fidei,
56
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
The Pastoral
Staff,
—
Isidore says, in the passage
already quoted, that the staff
may
given
is
*
he
that
rule or correct those set under him, or support
the weakness of the weak.'^ strange that even the pastoral staff has a
It is
prototype priesthood.
among the insignia of the heathen One of the emblems of the Roman
augurs was a lituus, or crook, resembling almost
we find them shown in the monuments of early Christian art. It was used inter alia for dividing the sky into exactly the earliest pastoral staves as
The
regions for astrological purposes.
represented
as
much
shorter than the mediaeval crozier
seems not at
all
was originally a
in
early
pastoral
monuments, was
staff,
;
and
improbable that the pastoral '
Christianization
'
it
staff
of this pagan
implement.
Other writers have argued
in
favour of the
being simply an adaptation of the
pastoral
staff
common
walking-sticks, which were certainly used
in churches as a seats.
It
support before the introduction of
has been pointed out, however, that the
pastoral staff
had become
a special
member of
the
insignia of a bishop bef3re the general abolition
these crutches
scilicet
;
and
this,
it
must be
confessed,
of is
signaculum quatenus sponsam Dei, videlicet sanctam
ecclesiam, intemerata fide ornatus illibate custodias. ''^
Ut subditam plebem
vel regat vel corrigat vel infirmi-
tatem infirmorum sustineat.
The Early Development of Vestments.
57
force against such a an argument of considerable
hypothesis.
Narof Celestine to the Bishops of on quoted bonne and Vienne, part of which we probably about the earliest available pp. 26-7, is '
The
letter
pastoral staff by memreference to the use of the This brings the bers of the episcopal order.
history of pastoral staves
the
back to the
early part of
special ornacentury, and shows that this symbols was one of the earliest of the external
fifth
ment
which the church has prescribed
for its officers.
wood
with a head either of the precious one of crutched or crooked, usually
The
staff
metals.
was a rod of
The name
sug-
gests that the symbolism
the
of
shepherd
had
entered largely into the ideas connected with it. It
was
and and,
carried
abbesses, till
by abbots
by bishops,
about the tenth
century, by
the
Pope
;
but with the rapid growth of the temporal sovereignty of the Papacy, the
emblem purely
Fig.
5.— Pope
Gregory
the
Great with Pastoral Staff.
associated
of spiritual pastorate was In the old pre-scientific days it used abandoned. to be stated that the Pope at no time carried
with the special idea
—
58 2L
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
pastoral
staff,
straight sceptre
though he did bear a ferula^ or
—the symbol of
rule ;* but this
is
at variance with the evidence of
contemporary art. must not leave the subject of the earliest
We
form of
vestments
ecclesiastical
without
briefly
noticing the ornamentation with which they were decorated.
In
ecclesiastics
represented clavi
pure
these
;
the
which we
ornamented
white,
were
of
representations
oldest
possess, their vestments
generally
with
the
though
black,
Isidore refers to purple clavi.
were
St
But other colours
appear in very early frescoes and mosaics. These, however, are apparently arbitrary, the result of the notions of the painter on the subject of the artistic
combination of colours.
to the
able
*
in
liturgical
colours
'
Nothing analogous
of
late times is trace-
the early or transitional
period of the
history of vestments.
Some ornamentation found
in
period. lies
other
than
vestments of late date
Leo
III,
the date of
the clavi
in
is
the present
whose Papal
rule
just on the border-line between the transi-
tional and the mediaeval epoch, presented to the
Church of
St Susanna a
* Romanus autem Pontifex Innoc. Ill Papa, 795).
Ideoque
De
vestment with four gamPastorali virga
Sacr. Altar.
summum
Myst.
circumscribitur at ubiquepatet. (Paris 1646), p. 102.
non
nullis
utitur
62 (Migne ccxvii,
Pontificem eiusmodi
virgam non gererc quia eius potestas
corum
i
incurvatam
locorum limitibus
—De Saussay, Panoplia
Cleri-
:
The Early Development of Vestments.
—
madia
that
is,
59
ornaments shaped like crosses
formed by four gammas placed back to back, thus -•
^
we
;
metal
hear of calliculae,
also
A
broidered ornaments, for the alba.
em-
or
singular
method of ornamentation is exemplified by numerous frescoes and mosaics, and has been a of
source
fruitful
perplexity
This consists in the use of
monograms or outer
hem of
to
ecclesiologists.
(sometimes of
letters
on the
letter-like arbitrary signs)
the garment.
No
connection can
be traced between these letters and any circumstances
known concerning
ments they decorate
the persons
whose
vest-
and wide differences be-
;
tween the times and places of individual examples of the same character preclude their explanation as the faithful copies of weavers' marks.
We
only say that their use
on such
is
inexplicable
can
practical or esoteric grounds, and that, therefore,
some simple explanation, such
as
the arbitrary
selection of a letter as an elementary ornament,
is
the only satisfactory means of accounting for their
Even now we
presence.
0-shaped ments,
circles,
without
daily
employ rows of
S-shaped curves, the
slightest
exalt
mysteries
and
it
simple is
little
as orna-
reference
sounds which those symbols denote. to
etc.,
contrivances
to
the
The tendency into
hidden
ever with us, especially in ecclesiology,
should on
all
occasions be repressed.
CHAPTER
III.
THE FINAL FORM OF VESTMENTS WESTERN CHURCH.
HITHERTO, to
IN
a great extent,
THE
we have
been groping in the dark, guided only
by the dim light yielded by obscure passages in early writers or
and shattered sculptures.
much
uncertain
tion obtained
;
by half-defaced
Much
is
frescoes
conjectural,
and often the shreds of informa-
from
different sources appear con-
tradictory, requiring patient thought
and investi-
gation to unravel the entanglement and reconcile the inconsistencies.
The
progress of Christian literature and art had
been retarded
and tumult.
by persecution, then by war This partly accounts for the comfirst
parative scantiness history of the
era
first
But with the ninth century a began, which lasted unchecked all through
eight centuries.
new
of the material extant for a
Christian antiquities of the
1
The Final Form of Vestments.
The
the Middle Ages.
6
military genius of Charles
the Great effected a general peace in the year 812;
and under
his enthusiastic
patronage a true renais-
sance took place in learning and in
art.
Archi-
tecture and manuscript illumination were carried
to a high degree of perfection, and for the
first
time active and systematic researches were made into the details of the doctrine and ritual of the
church
As
in the preceding centuries.
a natural consequence of the inquiring spirit
which thus made
and
on
tracts
itself felt,
Among
enormously.
which were and ecclesiologist,
the
ecclesiastical
number of books
matters
multiplied
the many branches of study open to the inquiry of the
are
few occupied the attention of these than the vestments
ninth-century writers more
worn by
the priests
when ministering
in
Divine
service. It
has been reserved for the antiquaries of our
own day
archaeology.
tific
which than
we
to formulate the true principles of scien-
We
smile at the childish fancies
are gravely put forward in
fifty
years old
;
small
works not more
wonder is it, then, that on vestments disap-
find these early treatises
pointing.
All
are
firmly
Levitical origin of the usage
impressed
with
the
and shape of Chris-
and the majority are occupied with vague speculations concerning the symbolic meantian vesture
;
62
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
of the
ing
items in an ecclesiastical
individual
outfit.
Mr. Marriott
assigns
for the then
reason
a
universal belief in the Levitical origin of ecclesi-
vestments which
astical
probably correct.
I
words on the subject '
did, in
cite his
:
Churchmen who had
some fail
highly ingenious, and
is
cannot do better than
travelled widely, as then
East as well as West, could hardly
to notice the remarkable fact, that at
stantinople as at
Rome,
at
Canterbury
Con-
as at Aries,
Vienna or Lyons, one general type of ministering dress
was maintained, varying only
details
a
and that
;
this dress
in
most marked contrast to what was
the
prevailing
dress of the
some minor
everywhere presented
laity.
in their time
And
as
all
knowledge of
classical antiquity had for three more been well-nigh extinct in the church, it was not less natural that they should have sought a solution of the phenomenon thus presented to them in a theory of Levitical origin, which from that time forward was generally
centuries or
accepted.'"'
Rabanus Maurus,
draw the Jewish
parallel
vestments.
we have
as
{supra^ p. 12), was the
first
already stated
who endeavoured
to
between the Christian and the
The
* Vest. Christ.,
older writers p. Ixxviii.
saw the
'The Fifial
Form of Vestments.
way of establishing Thus Walfrid Strabo
in the
difficulties
correspondence.
in chapter xxiv of his
merely says dent
'
:
*
'
De Rebus
Numero autem suo
(In their
63
a 'complete {circa 840),
Ecclesiasticis/
antiquis respon-
number they correspond
ancient vestments)
;
mass was formerly celebrated by a everyday dress.*
the
to
and he further admits that robed in
priest
But, as the desire to prove the
correspondence grew more widespread, changes and additions
were rapidly made in
the
vestments
themselves, with a view to assimilating the systems.
two
In the interval betv/een the ninth and
eleventh centuries the
number of
recognised vest-
ments was doubled by the accretions thus made to the original
As
exhibiting
drawn up the
set.
the simplest and most intelligible
lists
the extent of these changes,
I
have
the subjoined table, in which are given
of vestments
astical matters lists are
method of
known
to writers on ecclesi-
during this interval of time.
These
placed in parallel columns, and a uniform
system of nomenclature has been adopted, so that the reader can see at a glance the date of the various additions
:
* Vestes etiam sacerdotales per incrementa ad
eum
qui
nunc habetur auctae sunt ornatum. Nam primis temporibus communi indumento vestiti missas agebant, sicut et hactenus quidam Orientalium facere perhibentur. Walafrid Strabo
—
De
Reb. Eccl., cap. xxlv (Migne cxiv 952).
64 Rabanus Maurus, circa 820.
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
—
The Final Form of Vestments. ^rhe Alb.
I.
— We have traced the
vestment from till
its
history of this
use as a purely secular garment
the ninth century, and have seen
portions,
at first
vestment
fitted
65
how
pro-
its
ample, were contracted
till
the
with comparative tightness to the
body, on account of the greater convenience which the less flowing form of the vestment offered for active administration in Divine service.
The
material of which the alb was
usually linen, of
we
more or
often meet with
Silk
Albe sunt
quality
;
but
enumerate
of
albs
other
and cloth of gold are very com-
monly mentioned, and Thus we have *
fine
entries in old inventories of
church goods which material.
less
made was
viginti
de
velvet
serico
is
not unknown.
principales.'
—
West-
Inv.
minster Abbey, 1388. *
30 albes of old cloth of Baudkyn.'
1539'
One
olde aulbe of
whyte
velvyt.'
— Inv. Peterborough,
— Inv.
St
Martin Dover,
1536.
The
proper colour of the alb was white
;
but in
England coloured albs were sometimes worn, and we meet with such vestments in inventories passim.
The *
following
Red
is
a selection
:
albes for Passion w^eek, 27.
'40 Blue
albes of divers sorts.
Inv. Peterborough, 1539.
*
7 Albes called Ferial black.'
*
Alba de rubea sindone brudata.'
The ornamentation of
—
Inv. Canterbury.
the alb, in
the earlier 5
66
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
years of the third period, sometimes consisted of
round gold the
above the lower hem of
plates, just
vestment, one on either
sigillatae,
from the
*
Dr Rock
King -^thelwulf *Alba bona
quotes
:
Camisias albas
Vita Benedicti
kind
first
seal-like ap-
Albs of the second
pearance of the gold plates.
kind were named albae bullatae. the following
arranged
plates
Albs of the
round the lower edge. were called albae
Occasionally
side.
there were rows of small gold
sigillatas
III,
iii,
t.
et buUata.'
The more
holosericas.'
St Peter's,
to
p.
Rome,
— Record
in Liber
of
gift
of
Pontiiic.
in
i68, ed. Vignolio.
— Peterborough,
a.d.
1189.
usual ornamentation, however, and
that which became universal in later years, consisted in
ornamental patches of embroidery, tech-
sewn on to various parts of There were two such rectangular
nically called apparels^
the vestment.
patches just above the lower hem,"^ one in front,
one behind
two
;
the other on
similar patches, one on the back,
the breast
;
two small
patches, one
on
each cuff; a narrow strip encircling the aperture for the head,
more
than
tearing)
for use (as a binding to prevent
for
ornament
examples, two narrow * Very often
—
nental
all
round.
monuments
;
and,
a
the apparel and the hem.
is
a
earlier
— the
in
lower
narrow edging of embroidery
In some albs there
in
running down
perhaps more often than not
hem was ornamented with running
strips
as
represented on Conti-
considerable distance between
—
The Final Form of Vestme?its, and two behind,
front
67
like the clavi of the
Roman
tunic.
In the earliest representations of albs, as seen on
monuments, the vestment
sculptured
left
is
plain;
one of the earliest apparelled albs being on an
memory
the
to
effigy
Bishop
of
Giffard,
at
This, however, does not imply
Worcester, 1301.
more than that the apparels were originally painted on, and that the paint has worn off. Another difference is observable between the cuff-apparels of early effigies and of those of later
In the early albs the cuff-apparel invariably
date.
encircles the
we
find that
whole wrist it
;
but in later specimens
has shrunk to a small square patch,
sewn on the part of the sleeve which
is
toward
the back of the hand.
Dr Rock the
that
has
shown some
apparels
were occasionally hung loose
over their proper place being suspended
reason for believing
the lower
;
from the
girdle,
hem
apparels
and those on
the breast and back being fastened together by
two
cords,
and which across
gested
the
by
between which the head was passed, consequently, shoulders.
convenience
when
in
position, ran
This was obviously sug;
for
the
entry
in
the
accounts of St Peter's, Sandwich '
for
washing of an awbe and an amyce parleying to the lice and for sewing on
vestments of the garters and flour de of the parelles of the same, v^
'
68
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
we
us what
tells
should
have expected, that
had to be removed from the vest-
the apparels
ment when
it
afterwards.
It
was washed, and sewn on again was only natural that some such
plan as the loose suspension of the apparels should
followed
be
for
;
ripping off and
the constant
sewing on of the embroidery must have been not only laborious, but ultimately detrimental to the vestment.
This entry gives us an instance of another that
vestments and suits of vestments were the
after
pattern
named
which was embroidered upon
A singular collection
their apparels.
fact,
occurs in the
Peterborough inventory, including '6 albes with Peter keys. *
*
'
6 albes called the Kydds. 7 albes called Meltons.
6 albes called Doggs.'
Albs were sometimes worn
The
apparel.
Salisbury
forbids the apparelled
Friday
;
and
it
is
alb
not at
all
plain,
Missal,
without
/.^.,
for
example,
worn on Good impossible that some
to be
of the plain albs, as represented on early ments, are
really intended
for
monu-
unadorned vest-
ments.
Some
difference of opinion seems to exist
among
the authorities about the mystical signification of this
vestment.
culcate purity
Rabanus Maurus holds of
it
to in-
Amalarius of Metz, contrasting Jerome's description of the tight-fitting life.
T^he Final
Form of Vestments,
69
Jewish tunic with the flowing alb of his own day, considers that it denotes the liberty of the New
Testament dispensation as contrasted with the Pseudo-Alcuin thinks that servitude of the Old. means perseverance in good deeds, and that it therefore Joseph talaris
reaches
among all
the
is
described as wearing a tunica
his brethren.
way
body.'
For
which
a tunic
good work the ankle is the end
to the ankles
carried out to the end, for
of the
'
Ivo of Chartres
a
is
that
asserts
it
the signifies the mortification and chastisement of members. Honorius of Autun agrees more or less
with Rabanus Maurus but Innocent III regards because it is it as symbolical of newness of life, skins as unlike as possible to the garments of ;
'
which are made from dead animals, and with which Adam was clothed after his fall.'
The following dimensions are among those given by Mrs Dolby as the correct measurements of an alb for a figure of medium height and ordinary proportions
:
Length behind when made
-
-
Length before
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Depth of shoulder-band Width of same
Length of sleeve, outside of
arm
Width of sleeve at wrist folded Width of sleeve half-way up
in
4
9
-
4 o
8|
-
5
o
^i
-
-
z
\\
two
-
o
6\
-
o
9^
-
2
2o
-
o
ij
-
^
-
-
Length of neck-band Width of same
-
-
-
-
-
-
Opening down
-
-
-
front
-
^
i>
:
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
JO
The Girdle, with which the alb
II.
a narrow band, usually of
terminate in a
The
though occasionally is
is
tassel.
colour of the girdle
Though
the day.
secured,
is
the ends of which
silk,
properly white,
is
colour of
varied with the
it
of
(as stated) properly
silk, it
sometimes made of cotton. Occasionally
the
girdle
embroidered
was
in
In the Westminster inventory of 1388
colours.
we have Zone
'
serice sunt
septem
operis
diversi
diversorum
et
colorum.*
The
following
meanings mentis
discretio
;
tinentiae
The
;
to
virtutum
length of the girdle
It is therefore
even
it
known
The Amice. in the
invention.
hang over above
it
(if
not
alb
— This
earlier
unknown)
on mediaeval monuments,
is
visible,
entirely conceals the girdle
III.
custodia
was necessary to draw let
in those exceptional effigies in
whole length of the
ment
:
virtus con-
should be noticed,
it
extremely rare
for the girdle to be visible for
;
esoteric
stated at about four
is
length of the alb,
through the girdle and
it.
vestment
this
o'mnium
was so considerable that it
of the
selection
perfecta Christi caritas.
The
yards.
a
is
ascribed
by
which the
the latter vestfalling over
it.
vestment was quite un-
period
:
it
was a mediaeval
The Final Form of Vestments,
ji
amice was clearly originally intended to serve as a hood and a survival of this use remains
The
;
which the
in the ritual of vesting, in
priest first
places the vestment on his head, with the prayer
Impone Domine capiti meo galeam salutis ad expugnandum diabolicos incursus,' before adjusting '
it
round
his neck.
In several dioceses of France the amice was worn
hood upon the head from All Saints' Day till Easter, and something of the same kind may have
as a
been the practice elsewhere
thus,
we find an effigy
Towyn, Merionethshire, and another Beverley Minster, in which the amice is drawn
of a priest in
;
in
over the head hoodwise. In shape the amice was a rectangle (the dimensions are given as thirty-six inches by twenty-five inches).
were of
At
each end strings were sewn, which
sufficient length to
and encircle the body.
An
cross over the breast
apparel of embroidered
work ran along one of the long sides so that when the vestment was in position it was turned ;
down,
like a collar, over the other vestments
round
the neck, and so far open as to leave the throat of the wearer exposed.
A
small cross was marked in
the centre of the upper edge of the vestment. So much of this vestment was concealed that there appears to have been
little
variety of treatment, either in
The
Jatter
or no scope for
form or
seems alwavs to have been
material.
linen.
The
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
72
orphreys (embroidered edges), of course, are sub-
same unlimited
ject to the
variation of design as
the corresponding ornaments on other vestments
but the shape
The same uniformity able
variety of
meanings
with the alb and
purity of
tongue
is
the case
are told that
Incarnation
the subjugation
it
the
;
of the
the earthy origin and heavenly goal of the
;
the necessity of justice and mercy
;
temperance and
addition to
evil
We
Holy
the
The
vestment.
this
even greater than
is
good works;
human body in
not, however, observ-
its girdle.
{inter alia)
signifies
is
symbolism of
the
in
;
constant.
is
abstention from
and the endurance of present hardships.
;
The
IV.
Stole.
—The
has been discussed
early history of the stole
the preceding chapter, in
in
considering the orarium.
Why,
or when, the proper
ment became It is
named
*
stole,'
stola^
does
which
;
but
it
is
vest-
not appear.
stola in the later ecclesiastical
of our second period stola^
or
name of the
canons
how
not clear
denoted a under-garment of the
in its original significance
flowing tunic,
like
the
Roman
or the alha of the priests of the second
period,
came to
work.
It
plained (as as
is
signify a narrow strip of orphrey-
quite certain that
some
it
cannot be ex-
writers have attempted to do)
the orphrey of a lost vestment which has sur-
vived while the bulk of
it
has disappeared
;
for
'
The Final Form of Vestments,
73
the continuity of the stole and the orarium
matter of historic certainty, and
shown reason
for
assigning an entirely different
Such an evolution,
origin to the latter vestment.
narrow
too, as that of a
ment
strip
not natural, and
is
is
from
a
large vest-
contrary to our ob-
servation in the history of other vestments
assumes the existence of embroidered
'
;
and
it
orphreys
time far too remote for such ornamentation
at a
Fig.
a
is
we have already
6.— Stole-ends, showing Varieties
in
Form and Orna-
ment.
This hypothesis has suggested one
to be found.
of the
less
probable etymologies which have been
proposed for the word orarium.
The
stole
is
narrow
a
strip
of embroidered
work, nine or ten feet long and two or three inches wide. In
original
its
throughout
;
teenth century
form
it
was of the same width
but about the thirteenth or four-
we
find its ends terminating in a
rectangular compartment, giving each the appear-
ance of a tau cross. extra
room
for the
This was cross with
in order to secure
which every
stole
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
74
was supposed to be marked
stole
from the middle
where
point,
For the
at the end.
same purpose the modern
expands gradually also
cross
a
is
embroidered. Priests
between the alb
wear the stole
and
chasuble, crossed over the breast, and secured in
by the girdle of the
that position
when
only
officiating
mass,
at
alb
— nowadays
formerly on
occasions on which the stole was worn. generally secure
it
over the
left
all
Deacons
shoulder and under
the right arm, thereby approximating the disposi-
Roman
tion of the vestment to that of the ancient
ornament from which the vestment takes
its
Bishops wear the stole between the alb and
pendent
perpendicularly
breast
the
;
supposed
pectoral
to
on
cross
supply
the
either
side
origin.
tunicle"^'^
of
the
which they wear place
of
the
is
crossed
stole.
The embroidery and
material of the stole were
supposed to tally with that of the
The same
was worn.
it
maniple,
rule
and we commonly find
alb,
with which
applies in
to
the
inventories
that the three vestments are catalogued together.
But
if
we can
trust
the evidence of brasses and
other monuments, the vestments of different suits
were worn together in a very haphazard manner, *
The
late brass
represents the stole is
of Bishop Goodrich, in Ely Cathedral,
between the tunicle and dalmatic.
exceptional, and probably an engraver's error.
This
The Final Form of Vestments,
75
any defidoes not seem possible to extract of different vestnite rule as to the collocation patterns of ments embroidered with different
and
it
orphreys.
embroidered ends of the stole— below the terminated in a fringe cross when such existed— years for and it was not uncommon in earlier
The
;
little bells
have '
:
Una
stola
cum
Anglicano
frixio
cum pedis
albis et endicis
etcampanellis.'-Inv. Vest. Papae Bonif. VIII, '
Thus we
to be included in this fringe.
Church of our
Christ.'
century differ
Rock,
Fathers.'
stole is said to signify
The
cit. ap.
earlier
Authorities are
agreed
on
on some minor
symbolism of
its
this
details
length,
'
the easy yoke of
than point,
the
twelfth
though they
in the
disposition,
subordinate etc.
But
'inHonorius of Autun asserts that it signifies to the nocence,' and makes some vague and,
Esau's present writer, unintelligible allusions to
with a of his birthright while Innocent III, declares exegesis, faint reminiscence of the earlier Christ underwhich servitude the ;
sale
it
to
went Phil,
signify
for the salvation of ii
mankind— referring
to
5-8.
developV. The Maniple.—Tht history of the that of the ment of the maniple follows closely on stole.
With
as a very few exceptions, the maniple,
differs from represented on mediaeval monuments,
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
76 the
stole,
with
which
it
associated,
IS
in
size
alone.*
The maniple was
originally
most inconvenient, slip off,
FiG.
and the
as
it
fingers
worn over the
This arrangement was
fingers of the left hand.
was constantly
had to be held
7.— Archbishop Stigand.
(From the Bayeux
maniple carried over
liable to
in a con-
tapestry,
strained attitude throughout the service. early found
more
com^fortable
*
One
of these exceptions
priest
Colchester.
is
It
was
and convenient to
place the vestment over the left wrist
of a
showing
fingers.)
;
but no
presented by a small brass
(Thomas Westeley, 1535)
at
Wyvenhoc, near
•The
Final
Form of Vestments.
JJ
seems to have been formulated, and, the earlier custom indeed, in some parts of France the middle of the seems to have survived till When placed on the wnst it century.
definite rule
eighteenth
to form a perwas either buttoned or sewn so as slip off the manent loop, so that it should not
arm is represented on In a few effigies the maniple For this there is no hturgical the right wrist. be attributed to the authority, and it can only
sculptor.* blundering of the engraver or
In reference to
its
original utilitarian purpose,
significance Amalarius assigns to the maniple the Pseudo-Alcmn of the purification of the mind.' (in qua superto denote this present life '
holds
it
denote humores patimur). It is also said to racecourse. in the penitence, caution, and the prize same as that of the is width of the maniple
fluos
The
given at from three feet the stole— the length is to three feet eight inches. -
There
is
a
remarkable
statuette
of alabaster in
the
which originally formed Cambridge Museum of Archaeology, Cambridgeshire. Church, Whittlesford in part of I retable vestments, the Eucharistic in clad is which In this figure, seems to be supplied by a maniple is absent, and its place This may, however, right wrist. chain suspended over the emblem is a some such saint as St Leonard, whose represent
chain and manacles
:
in
which
case
it
is
just possible that
maniple to avoid the inartistic symthe sculptor omitted the
metry which would result from
its
insertion.
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
78
VI. The Dalmatic. representation
—
I
am
unable to find any
of this vestment
older
than
ninth century, showing the special features distinguished
it
mediaeval period. it
v!^
the
which
from the other vestments of the Before that date the dalmatic
The Final Form of Vestments, from
others by being
all
on either
These
side.
with fringes
slit
up
79
a short distance
were decorated
side-slits
but here an important theoretical
;
must be observed between the dalmatic bishop and that of a deacon. This was often
distinction
of a
neglected in mediaeval times, and
overlooked
frequently present
day.
bishop,
the
In
the
side-slits,
is
consequently
by ecclesiologists of the dalmatic, the
worn by
as
a
lower hems, and the
ends of the sleeves were fringed
;
in the dalmatic
of a deacon there were also fringes, hut only on the left sleeve
The
and along
the left
slit.
true reason for this distinction
is
probably
same direction as that which prompted the peculiar diaconal method of wearing convenience. The deacon, who was the ovarium
to be sought in the
—
practically the
servitor at
the altar, required to
have his right side free and unhampered as as possible
much
the heavy fringes, which might have
;
impeded him, were therefore dispensed with upon But such an explanation would by no that side.
means
satisfy the
ments, and the that
left
we
early mediaeval writers
are accordingly
side typifies this present life
which
is
on vest-
informed that
as
and the right
to come, so the fringes
on the
left
which we must pass in this world, while their absence on the right symbolizes our freedom from care in the world to indicate those cares through
come.
Why
the
bishop
was not regarded
as
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
8o
exempt from care
future world does
in the
not
appear.
at
Another singular piece of blundering meets us Here we have two St David's Cathedral.
effigies
representing
who, though they show the stole disposed
clerics,
yet
wear the dalmatic,
symmetrically, in the manner of priests.*
Either
of the dalmatic or the presbyteral must be incorrect but in our ignorance of
the presence stole
;
the identity of the persons
whom
these effigies
commemorate we cannot decide which. that
idea,
represent
figures
these
though ingenious,
is
untenable
;
Bloxam's
archdeacons,
for there
is
no
authority for assigning the dalmatic to an arch-
deacon
of priestly grade
figures of priests in various parts
known
;
and we have other
to have been archdeacons
of England, none of which show
the dalmatic.
The ornamentation of
the dalmatic before the
twelfth century consisted either of vertical bands the clavi) or else of horizontal bands, of
(like
orphrey-work.
After that date the plain white
vestment was superseded by one covered with elaborate embroidery. case
This
is
all
over
especially the
with the episcopal dalmatic, which
is
only
what we should have expected.
We
have already stated one symbolical meaning
* This description
companion volume,
is
p. 64.
given on the authority of Bloxam,
1
The Final Form of Vestments, attaching to the dalmatic and
A
few more
Christ
may
the
;
*
described by St
ments
its
be of interest
pure
religion
James
;
the
:
8
appurtenances. the Passion of
and undefiled,'
as
Old and New Testa-
the crucifixion of the world in the wearer
;
;
the wide mercy of Christ, etc.
All of the early writers are misled by the decree
of Pope Sylvester into imagining that Sylvester first
vestment
assigning
which
it
many
in
garment as a purely ecclesisome even go the length of mystical meaning to the colohium,
instituted this
astical
a
;
Even Walafrid
superseded. respects
Strabo,
who
the least mystical of the early
is
on
mediaeval writers
ecclesiastical
vestments,
is
deceived, though he wisely contents himself with stating the fact that Sylvester
had so commanded,
without attempting to assign any reason for his so doing. VII.
The Chasuble.
—The
variety of materials
of w^hich the chasuble was made
may
be gathered
from the following extracts from the Inventory of 1536 '
Imprimis
a
Lincoln
:
Chesable of rede cloth of gold w* orfreys
before and behind sett w' perles blew white and rede w^ plaits of gold enamelled.' *
Item
a
Chesuble of Rede veivett w' kateryn wheils of
a
chesuble of
gold.' *
Item
Rede
sylk
browdered w' falcons
leopardes of gold.'
6
&
;
82
Ecclesiastical Vestments. Item
*
of
chesable of whyte damaske browdered w' flowres
a
gold.'
Item
'
a
whyte tartaron browdered w*
chesable of
trey-
foyles of gold.' *
Item a chesable of purpur satten lynyd w' blew bukerham
havyng dyverse '
Item
scripturs.'
of cloth of tyshew w' orfreys of nedyll
a chesable
wark.' '
Item
a
k
chesable of sundon browdered w^ mones
sterres
lyned w' blew bukerham.'
Of the
materials here mentioned the
were velvet,
silk,
commonest
or cloth of gold.
In the latest days of the transitional and the earliest
days of the mediaeval period, there were
two kinds of chasubles
The
the processional.
was in
a
in use, the eucharistic
them
distinction between
than
utilitarian rather
ritualistic
;
hood sewn to the back of the
it
and
consisted
and
latter,
designed as a covering for the head during out-
door processions
in
inclement weather.
But the
processional chasuble early gave place to the cope
and
a
hooded chasuble does not appear to be
extant in representations of date later than the
tenth century.
The manner made seems
which the early chasubles were have been as follows A semi-
in
to
:
circular piece of the cloth of
was to
consist
was taken, and
centre, so that the
that of the figure
which the vestment a
notch cut
at
the
shape of the cloth resembled in
the annexed diagram
;
the
two and
The Final Form of Vestments,
83
straight edges corresponding to the lines
AB
CD
were then brought together and sewn
;
somewhat of extinguisher shape, with a hole in the middle for the neck, and enveloping the body all round to an equal depth The result was that when the priest each way. had to raise his hands the vestment was gathered
the result was a vestment
inconveniently on injured by
wearer by
shoulder, and probably
either
being crushed, certainly its
mounted by
a
weight.
This
hampering the
difficulty
was
The
very simple expedient.
sur-
cloth,
instead of being shaped as before, was cut into an
oval form, and an opening was
made at
the centre for
the wearer's head, the consequence being that
when
vestment hung down over the front and back to some distance, and covered the upper
in position the
part of the arms,
though not
interfere with their free action. is
that
which meets us
all
sufficiently
The
latter
so to
shape
through the mediaeval
period throughout the Western Church.
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
84
The modern Roman Church
has
another innovation which, although
made yet has
it
dis-
its
advantages, certainly reduces the inconvenience of
the vestment to a
Two
minimum.
fairly large semicircular
pieces are cut from each side
of the front of the vestment, thereby permitting the hands to be brought together
when
necessary without crushing the
vestment between the forearms,
which was
inevitable in the old
But the wasp-waisted
form.
appearance of this chasuble
is
ugly, and attempts are being
made
abolish
to
it
and to
return to the mediaeval pattern.
Yet another small tion
is
distinc-
to be found in the shape
of individual examples of the mediaeval Fio.
10.
— Sir
Peter
Legh, Knight and Priest. (From his brass Winwick. at Vested
in
chasuble
many made
as
extremities sharp.
the
of these vestments to be n-
,
•
i
so
11 that the lower Dorderis rouiided ,
^^
,
,
i
^j^-j^
.
vesica piscis^
terminate
Writers
find
Circular or elliptical, j
^^^^^^
found to be made
known
We
period.
who
in
a
so
point
cannot
be
•
^^^^^^ in the
^^^
shape
that the lower
more or content
less
with
85
The Final Form of Vestments. simple
commonplace
or
^
phenomena as this have laboured invent some esoteric signification account for guess
is
that
it.
such
of
explanations in
vain
which
to will
Perhaps the most common-sense
made by Dr Rock, who
thinks that
the period the rounded chasuble was used during Norman of rounded architecture— the Saxon and
pointed the pointed chasuble during the we which a suggestion periods of architecture accepting at once, should have no difficulty in of brasses and were it not for the fact that scores and Rectiother monuments of the Curvilinear
—and
:
linear
rounded
periods
in
chasubles;
architecture
while
exist
(among
showing
others)
the
Bathampton of Bishop John de Tour, at vestment. pointed near Bath, a.d. i 123, shows a particulars of the have no space to enter into of the vesica other suggestions— the symbolism
effigy
We
circle, etc. piscis, the perfection of the
that the simple explanation seems to be the taste and fancy difference depended merely on of the monuof the seamstress or of the engraver possible to draw up It would be perfectly ment. which the point of the a list of monuments in extreme sharpness chasuble shows every stage from
The
to extreme bluntness, and so, into a continuous curve.
by one
step further,
I'his demonstrates that
the necessarily followed in choosing that of making a shape of the chasuble, beyond
no rule was
86
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
fairly
symmetrical
down
in front
in
should hang
vestment which
and behind, and should have a hole the middle through which the priest's head
should be passed.
Nor
can
we even
affected the shape of the vestment a list as I
say that fashion ;
were such
for
have mentioned to be printed here,
it
would be seen to consist of the most haphazard and random series of dates and names of places thrown together without the
slightest regard to
chronological sequence or geographical position.
The dimensions
of a pointed chasuble (circa
fourteenth century) at Aix-la-Chapelle, which has
been accepted as a standard for modern imitation, are given as follows
:
Depth of shoulder, measuring from neck Length of side, from shoulder to point Depth from neck to point in front „
The
„
chasuble of St
Sens Cathedral, which shape,
is
behind
„
-
ft.
in.
-
2
9
-
411
-
4
-
4 ic
6
Thomas of Canterbury, is
at
of the old extinguisher In the
three feet ten inches in depth.
oldest chasubles the length of the vestment behind
was greater
There
is
a
—
often
much
greater
— than
in front.
more even balance between back and
front in later mediaeval times.
Passing
now from
the
manner of making the
chasuble to the manner of ornamenting just the
it,
we
find
same divergence, with apparently just
as
The Final Form of Vestments, little rule.
It
is
87
probable that, as the decoration
was the most costly part of the manufacture of a chasuble, the amount of it was regulated by the resources available to pay for
We
it.
propose to consider at the end of the next
chapter the classes of patterns with which vest-
ments generally were decorated ages
;
selves
at
present, therefore,
we
in
the
middle
shall confine our-
to noticing briefly the positions
which
in
these decorations were placed on the chasuble.
The groundwork of
the vestment was either
plain (invariably so in the older examples) or else
embroidered or woven with a pattern, according to taste and
means; the ornamentation proper con-
sisted of strips
as
it is
These
of embroidered or
technically called, strips
'
orphrey
'
work,
sewn on to the vestment.
were sewn either on the edge or cross-
wise on the front and back of the chasuble.
The edge orphrey
is
the more frequently met
with in the brasses of parish priests, "and
it is
rarely
so elaborately decorated as are the central orphreys. It
usually consisted
of some simple pattern of
flowers or geometrical figures recurring at regular intervals
round the edge.
Greater variety
is
seen
in
the
central orphrey, which, being the
and expensive, sented in the
is
shape of the
more elaborate
almost invariably found repre-
monuments of
other dignitaries, and
bishops, abbots,
and
in the efligies of priests
of
88
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
the richer churches.
sometimes, though rarely,
It
consisted of a simple
*
pillar
the back of the vestment
on front and on
'
usually this ornamenta-
;
was extended by the addition of branches of
tion
orphrey work given
on
off
either
side,
which
and joined the corre-
passed over the shoulder
sponding branches of the other
pillar,
the result
being that the orphrey on front and back had the appearance of the Greek
S',
When
with oblique arms.
or of a Latin cross
the bands were so dis-
on the front was called the pectoral, the pillar on the back the dorsal, and the auxiliary bands, which passed over the shoulders, the humeral orphreys. Very frequently this design was varied by omitting the part of the posed,
the
pillar
pectoral and dorsal bands above their intersection
with the humeral
which we
and churches. inverted,
;
this resulted
many
find in so
effigies in
and
some
in
it
gives {e.g,')
*
Y
cross,'
our cathedrals
In a few examples the
branches, so as to resemble It
in the
off
Y
or
M' is
auxiliary
the figure >|<.
would, however, be waste of time and space to
enter further into a discussion of what was not
regulated by any definite rule, but depended on caprice, or, at most,
More
often
than
whatever form,
and
is
In
is
on pecuniary
not
the
considerations.
central
orphrey,
combined with the edge orphrey,
usually of a different pattern from
many
of
early chasubles the front
it.
and back are
Form of Vestments,
'The Final
89
charged with an embroidered Latin cross. This is also the case with the back of the modern Roman or
slit
vestment.
When
Y
the
was
orphrey
chasuble, the space between
the back was usually
on
placed
with an elaborate
filled
the
and the neck on
it
floral
Some-
design embroidered in gold or crimson.
times (not always) this extended round the neck,
and was repeated
name of
special
The other love,
'
To
in front.
flower
ornament the
this
has been attached.
'
chasuble surmounts and safeguards
vestments
hence
;
which surmounts and
safeguards protection
the chasuble
common
is
beauty
their
thirsting,
singing,
praying,
to
;
all
the
its
prettily
clerics, so it
ought
common
all
poverty,
watching,
and
the
he holds that as
to set forth the works which are fasting,
with
Rabanus Maurus,
says
so
;
all
signifies
the other virtues, and
all
illumines
Amalarius disagrees
enough.
chasuble
the
to
:
reading,
The pseudo-
rest.
Alcuin and Ivo of Chartres agree with Rabanus,
though
ever, holds
succession
:
For
'
down from
his
beard to the
of His
III,
how-
to signify the virtue of apostolical
it
this
is
the skirt of which the
rest.'
Innocent
for difi^erent reasons.
spirit,
the vestment of Aaron, to oil
head to
skirt. first
ran his
down
;
but
it
ran
beard and from his
Forasmuch
as
the Apostles,
we
all
receive
afterwards the
Further, he goes on to say that because the
go
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
stretching out of the hands divides the chasuble
two complete and similar parts, so that vestment typifies the old and new church before and into
time of Christ.
after the
—The known — mere
well
are
citizens
across the instep by one or
and
without
roads
— an
confining his feet
secured
soles,
more thongs of
clearly designed to protect
stony
Roman
sandals of the
The Sandals,
VIII.
leather,
the wearer from
cramping or
unnecessarily
important consideration in
a hot climate.
Such a sandal must have been worn by the early clergy as
Roman
among
tinued in use It
w^as,
and
citizens,
still
is,
and probably long con-
the lower orders of clerics.
the
only foot-covering
of
monastic orders, and in some cases was
certain
retained even by
monks who had
In St Canice's Cathedral, Kilkenny,
copal rank.
which contains
a unique collection
and incised
efRgies
attained to epis-
slabs, superior in
of mediaeval
merit to
better-known specimens of mediaeval exists a
most interesting
de Ledrede,
who
died
effigy
ci'rca
art,
many there
of a former bishop,
1350.
He
sented fully vested in Eucharistic dress
is ;
repre-
but in
place of the episcopal sandals, which an ordinary
bishop would have worn, he wears the simpler
monastic sandal, which covers only the sole and
and shows the cord of St Francis hanging
instep
;
below
his alb.
1
The Final Form of Vestments.
The
9
extension of the Church into more northern
and colder regions, and the importation of foreign customs into the southern metropolis itself, probably suggested the transformation of the some-
what scanty sandal into a more appropriate and The traditions of the more comfortable shoe. old custom were, however, long maintained in a curious
way
fenestrated
:
or cut
being
result
the upper leathers of the shoe were
that
open-work
into
bare
the
patterns, the
surface
of the foot
showed through and displayed the decoration light flesh-tint against the
When
in
dark leather of the shoe.
the episcopal stocking was
added to the
equipment of the bishop, the colour became bright scarlet,
The
though the
efl^ect
remained
fenestrated sandals were
much
the same.
abandoned about
the fourteenth century in favour of shoes, in shape
much
very
resembling the modern ankle-shoe.
would have been spirit
It
inconsistent, however, with the
of the fourteenth century to have abandoned
the decorative effect produced by the open-work,
and neglected to stitute
find
was found
some
in
substitute.
lavish
This sub-
embroidery and
in
ornamentation with jewels and spangles of gold.
The
sandals, in fact,
became
as elaborate as did
the rest of the ecclesiastical vestments.
The
sandals, as above described,
were worn by
bishops only, at the Eucharistic service.
and
priests appear to have
Deacons
worn simple everyday
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
92
The
without ornamentation of any kind.
shoes,
fenestrated shoes (which were popular
of the day as well
dandies
among
consecrated
as
the to
the bishops) were expressly forbidden to them, as
were coloured shoes, or shoes of the prepos-
also
shapes occasionally in vogue
terous laity '
the
of the middle ages.
As
them
among
the sandals partly cover the feet and leave
partly bare,' says Rabanus,
Fig.
II.
'
so the teachers
Bishop Waynflete's Episcopal Sandal.
of the Gospel should reveal part of the Gospel
and should hide the rest, that the faithflil and pious may have enough knowledge thereof, and the infidel and despiser may find no matter for blasphemy. wise that
this
kind of shoe warns us like-
we should have
our bodies of
And
a care to
our
flesh
and
in matters of necessity, not in matters
lust.'
Amalarius of Metz enters into further
details,
some points of difference which obtained between the sandal of the bishop incidentally touching on
:
The Final Form of Vestments, and that of the
The
the ninth century.
of
his *
day
priest in his
— the
following
The
ofBces of the priest and
of the bishop are almost identical
not
a translation
is
difference in the sandal sets forth a differ-
ence in the minister.
there
half of
first
words
The
there
93
a distinction
is
but because
;
and honours
in their titles
we may
a distinction in their sandals, that
is
into error upon beholding them, which we
fall
might well do, owing to the similarity of their The bishop has a band (ligaturd) in his offices. It is the which the presbyter has not. length the duty of the bishop to travel throughout and breadth of his diocese {^parochid) to govern
sandals,
the inhabitants feet, his
that he
secure
The
and
lest
they should
who mingles with
who remains
sacrifice there,
his
mind
is
his
of this
is,
in
{gressus mentis).
one spot and
offers the
The
walks more securely.
office
from
the vulgar crowd must
the courses of his
priest,
fall
The moral
sandals are bound.
fast
because
;
deacon,
from that of the
different
bishop, needs not different sandals
he therefore
;
wears them bound, because it is his to go on The subdeacon, because he assists attendance. the deacon, and has almost the same
have
different sandals, that
The
deacon.
inner
sandals set forth
which
is
the
meaning
way of
office,
must
he be not thought a is
this
:
Because the
the preacher, the
sole,
underneath, warns the preacher not to
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
94
The tongue of mingle with earthly matters. " the tread "* of the under is which white leather, shows that there ought to be the same
foot,
and
separation, guiltless
guileless
;
that
may be
it
said of him, " Behold an Israelite indeed, in
there
is
no guile
;"
who
the false apostles,
The
disputation. is
him not be such
let
preached
tongue, which
in
whom were
as
malice and
rises thence,
and
separated from the leather of the sandals, sets
forth the tongue of those
who ought
good
to bear
testimony to the preacher, of whom Paul said, " He must have a good report of them that are without."
These are
some extent course. spirits
are
the lower rank, and to
in
separated
from
The upper tongue is who lead
{spiritalium),
inter-
spiritual
the tongue of the the preacher into
These search into the the work of preaching. But the sandals are past life of the preacher. leather so must white with bound round within the desire of the preacher be pure before God, out ;
and without appears the of a clean conscience black, since the life of the preacher seems despised ;
by them that afflictions
are worldly
on account of the myriad
of this present
The upper
life.
the sandal, through which the foot
together with
many
threads, that the
bands be not separated should apply
;
himself to
* So Mariott.
enters,
The
two
part ot is
sewn
leather
for at first the preacher
the
original
many
word
is
virtues
calcaneum.
and
The Final Form of Vestments.
95
sayings of the Scriptures, that his outward acts may not be at variance with those which are secret
The tongue of the and known to God only. sandals, which is over the foot, sets forth the tongue of the preacher. The line made by the of the shoemaker, stretching from the tongue of the sandal to its end, sets forth the perfection of
craft
the lines proceeding from either side, the law and the prophets, which are repeated in the Gospels ; they are repeated at the middle line, which stretches to the end. The bands denote the the Gospel
;
.' mystery of Christ's Incarnation have given this strange mixture of mysti.
.
.
We
cism and observation at length for several reasons. First, it emphasizes a curious distinction between the shoes of different orders of clergy which is not Secondly, it gives a often brought into notice.
very
full,
though somewhat obscure, description of
And thirdly, it the sandal in the author's time. an author which to exemplifies the absurd lengths can go
who endeavours
to extract
hidden meanings
Here facts. from simple and easily Amalarius endeavours to extract solemn truths even from the seams which the maker found necessary If some in joining two pieces of leather together. explicable
modern
writers on archaeological
subjects
took
timely warning from such a melancholy example, we should have fewer wild theories and more facts. It
is
sad
that most
of Amalarius' successors
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
96
of
quietly put aside his elaborately argued piece
Pseudo-Alcuin
symbolism.
is
content with the old
idea of Rabanus, that the Gospel should be kept
from what
earthy as the feet are kept from the
is
Ivo practi-
ground, but not otherwise covered.
Rabanus word
cally quotes
Innocent further
who
III,
to
beautiful are the
gospel of peace
which
bestowed upon
The
feet
quotation
the
little *
:
How
of them that preach the
!'
IX. The Pall. diction,
and even
;
usually original, has
is
beside
offer
word
for
—The
pall
worn by
is
all
is
a symbol of juris-
the Pope, and by
him
archbishops.
material of
which the
pall
is
made
is
white
Both the shape of the vestment and
wool.
its
ornamentation have undergone modifications since it
was invented, even during the mediaeval period earliest
Its
itself
known of chapter.
given a
origin,
its
The little
appearance, is
and
all
that
is
described in the preceding
folding of the pallium must have
trouble whenever
it
was put on
;
and
must before long have suggested the shape which meets us in the mediaeval pall that of a this
:
loop of cloth with two tails projecting from opposlight differsite points in its circumference.
A
ence
is
observable between palls represented early
and those represented late in the mediaeval period. In the former the branches are almost horizontal, passing round the arms between the shoulder and
The Final Form of Vestments, elbow
;
97
in the latter they pass over the shoulder.
In the former case the pall resembles a T, in the
Fig.
12.— St Dunstan. Library
latter a Y,
;
(From a manuscript
showing early forms of
pall
in
the
Cottonian
and mitre.)
whether seen from before or behind the
wearer.
In whichever form
was secured
it
in its place
appears, however, the pall
by
pins.
At
first,
when
of simple description, these pins could be run through pall and chasuble with-
the vestments were
7
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
98
much damage; afterwards, however, when enrichments were heaped upon the chasuble, out doing
these pins were not
run into that vestment
at all,
It but through loops provided for the purpose. was discovered, however, that the pall in its latest
development would stay in its place quite as well without pins as with them, and the loops were
As
therefore abandoned.
made of
the pins were generally
gold, with heads of precious stones,
was
reluctance
some
abandoning them altogether,
felt at
and accordingly they sank into the position which that of
the maniple and other vestments assumed
—
being ornaments.
The
length of the variety
siderable
extremely long
pendent
different
at
tails
shows con-
times.
They are in monu-
— often extravagantly — so
ments dating between the eleventh and fourteenth After that date they were curtailed,
centuries.
more than a foot long. There is a little button of lead sewn into the ends of the tails to make them hang properly.
and
at
The
present are not
pall
elaborate
never
displayed
that
tendency to
adornment which distinguished the other
vestments of the mediaeval age. fact that all palls
were made in fashion.
noticeable.
were made
at a time,
Some In
at
Doubtless the
Rome, and but few
prevented any great change
differences are, notwithstanding,
the
earliest
representations
of
tailed palls there is to be seen a single cross at the
The Final Form of Vestments. end of each
worked on
tail
the same cross
;
present the pall
tail
to be seen
is
and mappulae.
early oraria
mediaeval and modern times there
At
99
is
But
in
a difference.
has six crosses, one on each
and four on the oval, worked
in black.
In
we find sometimes four, sometimes many as eight, worked in purple. The history of each individual pall is curious. On the morning of St Agnes's Day (January 21) the middle ages as
in each year,
two lambs are sent
into
Rome
each in
a basket, the baskets being slung over a horse's back.
These lambs
are chosen
whiteness and goodness. the palace of the Pope,
with
special reference to
The horse is who comes to
driven to a
window
and makes the sign of the cross over the lambs, which are then conducted to the church of St
Agnes without the
Here, gaily adorned with flowers and ribbons, they are brought up to the altar, and kept there till mass is sung. After mass (formerly
at
walls.
the
Agnus Dei)
the celebrant
which are then handed over to the charge of the canons of St John Lateran, by whom they are sent back to the Pope. The Pope hands them on to the dean of his subdeacons, blesses the lambs,
who are
wool
delivers
kept is
them up to
and
fed.
a nunnery, where they
When
woven by the nuns
they are shorn, the into
palls.
On
eve of the day of St Peter and St Paul palls are
taken to St Peter's, and there
the
these blessed
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
loo
which they
after evensong, after
box to
silver-gilt
new
bestowal on a
vt^ait
till
up in a wanted for
are shut
they are
archbishop.
Each archbishop on
election
must go
to
Rome
in person to receive the pall, unless prevented by when the latter is the case it serious obstacles
—
He
solemnly sent to him by the Pope.
is
is
not
permitted to engage in any episcopal duty before receiving the pall ; afterwards the vestment is
worn only
St
Nativity,
Stephen,
Palm
Epiphany,
Holy
High Mass on
at
Saturday,
Sunday, Easter
the following days
:
Circumcision,
John,
St
Maundy Thursday, Monday and
Sunday,
Tuesday, Ascension, Pentecost, Feasts of the Virgin, Nativity of St John the Baptist, all days of Apostles, All Saints, Dedications of Churches, principal local feasts in the diocese. Consecrations
of Bishops, Ordinations of Clergy, Feast of the local Dedication, and the Anniversary of the wearer's consecration.
the *
pall at all
The
times
pall is
The Pope,
when he
however, wears
says mass.
the symbol of the archiepiscopal
authority, therefore
it
may
not be worn without
express papal permission outside the limits of the
When
jurisdiction of the archbishop.*"
the pall
We
* the
give a figure of an effigy in
memory
This
buried with him, but
is
effigy
it
is
he dies,
only placed
Mayence Cathedral to who died in 1545.
of Albrecht von Brandenburg,
is
remarkable, and probably unique, in represent-
T^he Final
Form of Vestments. buried within his
his shoulders if he be
on
province, otherwise
The
his head.*
is
own
the only vestment which
cleric to another.
not be lent by one
may
oi
folded and placed beneath
it is
pall
i
ing the archbishop as wearing two Although this is a conpalls.
venient method of informing the world of the fact that the person
commemorated held two archbishoprics (Mayence and Magdeburg), as
of course,
it is,
pall
the
solecism,
a
could
one
the
of
worn within
the
precincts of the other, and
z'ice
not
legally be
versa.
This monument
cially valuable, as
it
espe-
is
clearly dis-
tinguishes between the cross-staff
and the pastoral
staff,
which
are
See the account
often confused.
of the pastoral
staff later
on
in
the present chapter.
*
It is
astics ristic
well
known
were buried
that ecclesi-
in their
vestments, with
a
Euchachalice
and paten, the former often with wine.
Much
filled
nonsense
is
talked nowadays of the piety of the mediaeval builders and undertakers, who put their best work where no human eye
could see
it.
"Unfortunately for this theory, the chalice and
paten were usually cheap base metal (Canterbury affords one notable exception), and the vestments were often an inferior Economy was considered then, as now. or worn-out set.
I02
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
We
now come
of the
to a singular point in the history
and one which has so
pall,
ecclesiologists
to explain.
far
baffled
Although the
generally regarded as the peculiar
pall
is
emblem of arch-
bishops, and seems to have been kept for their
and peculiar use by the
especial
rites
which we
have described, yet a few favoured bishops have
from very early times been
The
vestment. privilege
are
bishoprics
those
wear
entitled to
which
of Autun,
possess
this
this
Bamberg, Dol,
Lucca, Ostia, Pavia, and Verona.
The
pall
is
represented on several
of bishops of these dioceses,
e.g.,
monuments the
slab
of
Bishop Otto
(1192) and the brass of Bishop Lambert (1399), both in Bamberg Cathedral. In illuminated manuscripts and elsewhere find figures of clerics of episcopal pall,
we
often
rank wearing the
but holding the crook-headed
staff,
commonly
supposed to be the insignia of a bishop as distinguished from
an archbishop
;
examples exist to show that the
but as numerous latter
notipn (like
the majority of popular ideas in archaeology)
is
erroneous, this combination proves nothing.
The
peculiar circumstances
distinguishing the
from the rest of the ecclesiastical vestments would lead us to expect some remarkable disquisitions on its symbolism. This expectation is not disappointed. The cross on the back and pall
front reminds the wearer to reflect piously
and
in
The Final Form of Vestments.
103
worthy manner on the Passion of the Redeemer, and holds up before the people the sign of their Redemption. Such is the old view, and it has at
a
the merit of simplicity and religious feeling.
least
But, unfortunately, Amalarius, in his dissecting manner, draws a parallel between the pall and the golden plate of the Levitical
tion of the pseudo-Alcuin
ton
Jod
signifies
and Heth
principium,' //^
*
passio
'
passionis vitae.'
the four letters
Innocent signifies
III
'
—
'
id
wherein
Vau
'iste,'
iste
est,
it),
est
'vita,'
principium
Honorius thinks, however, that typify the four arms of the cross.
and others
tell
us that
the
pall
which archbishops themselves and those set under them.
that
should rule
discipline
with
Innocent's account of the pall gives as
As
;
on the Tetragramma-
he inaccurately writes
(as
T\'\T\'^
Priest
for the extraordinary disquisi-
way
this clears the
High
full
be obtained of the vestment and ornamentation and fastenings, we give an
an account its
abstract of '
The
as can
here
it
pall
:
which the
principal
bishops wear
which archbishops should rule themselves aud those set under them. By this the golden chain* is obtained which those the
signifies
who
receive saith,
''
My
discipline
strive
with
lawfully,
of which Solomon
son, hear the instruction
of thy father
and forsake not the law of thy mother, for they *
A
not
uncommon comparison
for the loop of the pall.
I04 shall
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
be an ornament of grace unto thy head and
For the pallium
chains about thy neck."
of white wool, woven, having a the
straining
hanging down on either
circle
and two
shoulders,
side
;
is
made
above con[lineae)
tails
moreover, there are
four purple crosses, front and back, on the right
and on the
and
single
On
left.
on the
the left side
it
is
double,
After a long moraliza-
right.'*
on these facts, he goes on The three pins which are fixed in the pallium over the breast, on
tion
'
:
the shoulder and in the back, denote pity for his
neighbour, the administration of his
meting out of
justice.
.
There
.
.
office,
and the
no pin
is
fastened in the right shoulder,' because there
trouble in everlasting
rest.
'
The
needle
is
is
no
golden;
sharp below, rounded above, enclosing a precious stone,'
may
which bears
a variety of meanings.
If
we
believe the Elizabethan reformers, the pall
was an expensive item in an archbishop's insignia. Although Gregory I ordained that it should be given to the archbishop-elect freely. Jewel speaks
of the Archbishop of Canterbury giving florins
(^1,125
at 4s. 6d. the
florin) to the
5,000
Pope
for his pall, in addition to the first-fruits of his
province
;
and Bullinger speaks of the
so dear that
'
bishop often
X. The *
A
'
in gathering
money
for
it
pall '
being
the arch-
beggared his whole diocese.'
Stockings,
or
survival of the old
buskins,
seem to have
method of wearing
it.
;
The Final Form of Vestments.
105
been originally appropriated to the Pope alone, bishops being content with the somewhat scanty sandal already described.
But by the time of Ivo
of
had taken their place
Chartres
among is
the
the
caligae
the articles in an episcopal wardrobe,
first
H(
who men-
writer
In the middle
tions them.
ages they, like
all
the other
vestments of which we have been treating, forsook their primitive simplicity and be-
came enriched with elaborate ornamentation.
They
sig-
nify the need of framing the
courses of their feet aright
and
in
that they reach to
the knees, they indicate that
the wearer should strengthen the feeble
knees weakened Fig.
by heedlessness, and hasten
14.— Bishop Episcopal
flete's
Wayn" Stock-
to preach the Gospel.
— The
discussion of this
difficult
than that of any
XI. The Subcingulum. vestment will be more other
West.
among
the equipment of the clergy of the
It is all
but obsolete at the present day
;
more than one representation of it extant, and that only shows a small portion of it in an unsatisfactory manner and the there does not seem to be
;
io6
Ecclesiastical Vestments, to
references
and
far
between.
In antiquarian or any other investigations invariably the best rule,
when
a
puzzle
work backwards from
solution, to
the
few
writers are
in ecclesiastical
it
We
unknown.
will
is
it
is
set for
the
known
to
follow this
course
in
speaking of this vestment, and commence with a description of
as
it
worn
at the present day.
The modern suhcingulum exclusive use of the Pope. girdle, passed left
round the
reserved for the
is
and having on the
alb,
This seems
maniple-like appendage.
side a
to have been the
form which
had
it
published
in the
end of
Ordo Missae by Georgi,* we read
the fourteenth century, for in an Pontificalis,'
form of a
takes the
It
'
:
Primo induit (pontifex) sibi albam, deinde cinctorium cum manipulo ad sinistram partem.* In *
the century before this Durandus, in his
Divinorum Officiorum,' writes latere
left
hand
course
'f
—
side
of an
;
:
'
Rationale
Sane a sinistro
ex cingulo duplex dependet suc-
pontificis
cinctorium
'
a
doubled
'
apron
and he likens elaborate
it
'
hangs on the
to a quiver, in the
comparison between
the
episcopal vestments of his time and the spiritual
armour of the Christian.
The
succinctorium must have adopted this form
* Liturgia
Rom.
Pont., vol.
Church of Our Fathers, t
Rationale, III 4.
iii,
p.
556
;
cit,
ap.
Rock,
The Final Form of Vestments.
1
At
about the middle of the thirteenth century.
we
the beginning of that century use,
its *
and was not
Ordo Romanus
a
mere ornament.
of Cencio de
'
find that
it
had
In the
Sabellis, written
end of the twelfth century,*
at the
07
a description
is
of the new Pope's taking possession of the Church
He is there described as of St John Lateran. being girt with a belt of crimson silk, hanging '
from which
containing
a purple purse (bursa)
is
These
twelve precious stones and some musk.'
had
meaning
their symbolical
purity,
the
almsgiving,
purse
the
apostles, the
musk
good odour
a
'
all
the belt denoted
:
the
stones
in the sight of
God.'
Innocent
III,
commencement of
writing at the
the thirteenth century, describes the vestment as peculiar to
but does not refer to
bishops^
peculiar
to popes
Cencio.
The
last
restriction
one or two centuries
many
not enter into
be
neither,
;
clearly distinguishes
may
noticed,
He
as
does
have crept
Innocent.
after
in
does
it,
but he
from the zona^ or
girdle,
details it
it
it
which denotes continence,
concerning
as the subcingulum sig-
nifies abstinence.!
About
this
time a fresco was executed on the
* Printed in Mabillon, Musei
t
Were
it
not for
this,
Ital.,
we might
ii,
p.
infer
212.
from the other
passages quoted that the succintoriura was simply the ordinary girdle.
hung on
—
io8
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
wall of the Sagro Speco at Subiaco, which remains till
the present day.
Pope
represents a
It
fully
but under the folds of the chasuble on
vested,
either side
a fretted orna-
is
ment which
is
part of any
of the ordinary
any
of
vestments
There
clergy.
certainly
is
rank
as correct
ornament
of
no alterna-
but to regard
tive
not
Dr Rock
in considering this as part
of the sub-
cingulum.
This being granted, the sub-
cingulum
from
seen to be a girdle,
either
depends '
is
lappet.'
a
We
side
of
which
lozenge - shaped shall
meet with
a similar lappet in the eniyo-
of the Greek Church. Only portions of these lappets
vaTiov 15.
Figure of a
Pope.
{Temp. Inno-
Fig.
cent
are to be
seen in the
fresco
III.)
in
question,
but
enough
is
apparent to show them to be lozenge-shaped.
The being,
testimony of Cencio points to these lappets not
mere ornaments, but bags or purses and this brings us to another
hung
to the belt
stage
in
know
that through the middle ages a bag called a
gypciere
the
hung
;
evolution
of this vestment.
at the belts
of
civilians,
We
and served
Final Form
T^he
of Vestments,
109
the double purpose of purse and pocket.
It
is
but natural to suppose that the early clergy found
appendages useful even
such
Let us now go yet
further,
in
and
divine service.
see
whether con-
firmation of these theories awaits us.
Honorius of Autun
1130 writes: 'The sub-
in
cingulum, also called perizona or subcinctorium,
hung doubled about the
loins
is
this signifies zeal
;
in almsgiving,' etc.
hung Note, in this passage, the expression only refer the to lappets can This doubled.' '
'
'
being hung one on each giving,'
which Honorius
side.
And
asserts
this
the
'
alms-
vestment to
signify, suggests a purse.
Other
write to the same effect
rius,
;
and even
as the tenth century, in a manuscript w^e find a distinction
lum
'
Hono-
writers, in the century preceding
and the
'
of the mass,
drawn between the
baltheum
'
as early
'
cingu-
in the prayers said while
vesting.
In short,
lum, with
seems probable that the subcingu-
it
its
appendages,
is,
like
several
other
sacerdotal vestments, a modification into an orna-
ment of something which had been designed for When the maniple some natural requirement. became too narrow and too richly embroidered to be of the slightest use as a handkerchief,
it
cannot
be supposed that the priest did entirely without
some resource
;
some
plain piece of cloth
must surely
1 1
o
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
have been employed in its place, and some pocket must then have been required in which to place it. Again, some receptacle must have been wanted in which to place those comforting metal apples in '
'
which hot water was placed when the day was and the thumbstall or ponser, the thimble
cold
;
designed to keep the
thumb
oil
which adhered to
his
had been dipped in the chrism, from greasing any of his vestments. It seems only natural
after
to
it
suppose
that
the
subcingulum was
originally designed to supply fhese wants.
—
This ornament, obsolete XII. The Rational. now, was assumed by the bishops of the early years of the middle ages, in direct imitation of the breastplate of the
ephod worn by the Jewish High
Priest. It
consisted of a
wooden brooch,
overlaid with
enamelled metal, which was fastened high up on the breast of the chasuble, and seems to
commonly
have been worn when there was no central
orphrey on that vestment.
The shape and ornamentation of
the rational
varied altogether with the
caprice
who designed
are extremely rare in
it.
Examples
inventories of cathedral goods, at
all.
It
is
artist
indeed, they occur
probable that they were catalogued
together with the morses
of copes, with
they were practically identical
The word
if,
of the
*
Rationale
'
which
in appearance.
first
meets
us in the
1
T^he Final
Form of Vestments,
;
1 1
expression 'rationale judicii/ used in the Vulgate -passim as a translation of the ro \o^{iov
KpiaewQ,
the Septuagint expressed the breastplate
by which
In the early Church writers the
of the ephod.
word
rr]q
was dropped and 'rationale' used
'judicii'
alone, but always to denote the Jewish ornament.
When
unknown,
quite
the
century,
eleventh
utuntur'
—
if
' :
Pro
archiepiscopos
a statement
made
not have
ecclesiastical
for he says
quos
pontifices,
the
in
pseudo-Alcuin wrote,
tenth
rational
or
was
rationali
summi
dicemus,
pallio
which he would certainly
anything
less
unlike the rational
Ivo of than the pallium had been known to him. Christian the of nothing knows Chartres, too,
ornament, for although he does not say definitely that the Jewish rational corresponded to the pallium, he says that
it
corresponded to an orna-
conceded {concessum) to the chief bishops of
ment
—an
would
define the
pallium, but certainly not the rational.
Honorius
time
his
of Autun
is
expression which
the writer in
whom we
first
meet with
direct and unequivocal mention of the ornament and he begins his remarks upon it by definitely
stating
:
'
Rationale a Lege est
sumptum '—Lege,
This gives us of course, being the Levitical law. which the between very closely the limits of date some time between iioo rational was assumed
—
and
1
1
The
30. rational, if
we may
accept the testimony
112
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
of the monuments, gradually died out about the fourteenth or fifteenth century.
seems never to
It
have been universal, and an actual rational
Xlll. The Mitre.
— Like
that of the subcingu-
lum, the history of the mitre
evolution
;
a curious piece of
is
but, unlike the suhcingulum^ the mitre
can be traced through
broken chain of effigies,
one
a collector
of the rarest ecclesiological treasures can possess.
is
all
its
history in an un-
literary references,
monumental
and actual specimens.
The word
7nitra
(Gk.
/iiVoc,
ci
thread^
is
applied
in the transitional period to a female head-dress,
and even St Isidore of
word
that
in
sense.
Seville
The
makes use of the
Septuagint, however,
occasionally translates the expression for the cap
of the high priest by ^aV^a use the
word
Ac/Soptc,
;
at
other times they
which they also apply to the
cap of the second order of the Jewish priesthood.
The Vulgate
follows
the
Septuagint,
sometimes
using mitra^ sometimes cidaris^ and occasionally tiara.
The
advocates of an origin in primitive anti-
quity for Ecclesiastical Vestments
two passages which
are
make much of
certainly
obscure,
and
would seem to indicate that in apostolic times bishops wore a gold -plate upon their heads. These passages are in a letter sent by Polycrates of Ephesus to Victor, bishop of Rome, about the '
'
—
'The
year '*
200
a.d., in
1
1
which he alludes to St John as priest wearing the gold plate
up^vg to 7reTa\ov
and
;*
7re(j>of)r]fC0JQ
in the
400
writings of Epiphanius of Salamis (circa in
'
Final Form of Vestments,
having become a
iyevi]Or]
3
a.d.),
which he says of James, the brother of Our
Lord, that he was a
priest after the ancient rite,
and was permitted to wear a gold plate (jai'Ta auTOi'
Kara
Ka\ TO TreTaXov
iraXaitiv Upuxjvvi]
rrjv
hparev-
evpOjLUv
.
.
Cltmg
K£(paXr}Q £$^7^ civtm (pEpeiu^'T
eirl rfyg
.
the authority of Eusebius, Clement, and others.
These statements
are
confused that very
little
but
can be
made out of them,
has been pointed out that
it
vague and
hopelessly
so
(i)
the passages
in which they occur are largely allegorical,
(ii)
that the iriTaXov seems to refer to the gold plate of
Jewish priesthood, and that the expression priest with the iriTaXov probably was used currently in '
'
the early years of Christianity,
abbot as
'
Dr
is
at the present
Sinker says,J
John and this
by us
it
'
is
plain
much enough
mitred
that if St
them, did wear
was an ornament
it
'
In any case,
day.
St James, or either of
ornament,
as
'
special
to
themselves and ceased with them, affecting in no sense the further use of the church.' * Ap.
Eusebius,
Graec, xx 493. t Contra Haer.,
Hist.
I
Eccl.,
xxix 4
;
v
24.
;
Migne,
Migne,
Patrol.
Patrol.
Graec,
xli 396.
X
In
Smith and Cheetham's
Antiquities,' s.v.
r/!/tre.
'Dictionary
of
Christian
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
114
Other passages, supposed to refer to this or similar practices, bearing dates between the fourth and sixth have no
found on examination to
centuries, are real
on
bearing
number of extracts from
The
question.
the
writers of that time
which
have been brought forward to prove the antiquity of the mitre is considerable ; but those which can
from their contexts
at all bear consideration apart
are
all
vague, unconvincing and inconclusive
;
some,
indeed, are so obviously figurative that their pro-
duction
only an amusing illustration
is
straits to
which the
of the
believers in the elaboration of
primitive ritual are reduced.
And
Tertullian on the other side
is
the evidence of
very clear
—
denique patriarches, quis prophetes, quis
'
quis
levites,
aut sacerdos, aut archon, quis vel postea apostolus
aut
episcopus invenitur
evangelizator aut
coro-
natus.^'*
In the face of this quotation
it is
what to make of the passages elsewhere, in which a bishop
expression
*
corona
vestra,*
in is
not easy to see St
Jerome and
addressed by the
much
as
we
use the
Dr Rock argues words your lordship now. bishops, that this even so early as the fifth from century, wore a circlet or crown of gold at Divine If so, the use must have been confined service. *
'
to
Rome,
for
otherwise
* *De Corona Milids,'
the cap. ix.
Toletan or other Migne,
ii
88.
5
The Final Form of Vestments, councillors
would surely have given us
information concerning
book
1
definite
it.
St Isidore of Seville, in his treatise Ecclesiasticis,'
1
chap,
ii,
De
'
Officiis
describes
vii,
the
tonsure as indicative of the priesthood and the regal nature of the church, the shaven part of the
head representing Jewish
the hemispherical
and the
priests,
circlet
cap of the
of hair representing
the coronet of kings.
It is true that he is not speaking definitely of bishops, but the fact that he is
absolutely silent
respecting
a
kind other than the crown of hair
word
expressly uses the
corona
—
crown of any for which he
—
at
is
least
pre-
sumptive evidence that the crown of gold was not worn in his day. The prophecy of King Laoghaire's druids affords a very curious corroboration
of this; sttpost,
The
earliest
adduce of an
p.
128.
representation
ecclesiastic
Dr Rock
that
wearing this
can
circlet is a
figure in the Benedictional of St Aethelwold, an
MS. of the tenth century at Chatsworth. Here we have a figure, the brows of which are certainly encircled stones.
with
As
a
gold
band
set
with precious
Marriott points out, however, this
is
probably more of a secular than an ecclesiastical nature, and
may
indicate the royal rank to which
bishops at that time frequently laid claim.
Menard, liturgies,
after
came
a
to the
careful
study
of
ancient
conclusion that the mitre
6
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
1 1
was not
in use in the church prior
Contemporary
looo.
Probably the
to the year
art bears out this statement.
genuine representation of a
earliest
bishop wearing a head-dress to which any import-
ance can be attached from a liturgical point of
view
A
(Claud. is
MS.
an illumination of St Dunstan* in an
is
3)
the
in
Museum.
British
This
of the early years of the eleventh century.
It
shows us a simple cap, low and hemispherical
in
now
in-
shape, without the least trace of the cleft
variably associated with the episcopal headgear.
The
fashion seems to have changed with con-
siderable rapidity,
make
its
and the
appearance.
cleft
Its
very soon began to
first
beginning was a
very shallow, blunt depression between two low,
—
rounded points, one over each ear in a depression such as would naturally be made blunt,
fact,
in a
by passing the outstretched hand gently across the crown. This change was not soft
cloth cap
long in giving place to another and more important
The
modification.
mitre
was
turned
so
that the horns appeared one in front, one behind,
and they were raised a
little
higher than before,
and, instead of being rounded, were
The
triangular form.
made of
mitre in this shape
universally represented
in
is
a
that
MSS. of the twelfth
century. Little
difference *
in
See
shape
fig.
is
11, p. 97.
traceable
in
the
7
The Final Form of Vestments.
1 1
or mitres of the thirteenth, fourteenth, fifteenth hundred four During these sixteenth centuries.
but years the mitre increased considerably in size,
Fig
16
-\
^CATHEDRAL
Bishop,
Salisbury
(Jocelyn,
Twelfth
Century). it
was reserved
for
the
Fig.
17.-AN
Archbishop;
^-^^^^^.''^IZ'^ll? ther von Isenburg, 1482). seventeenth
century to
Hitherto stereotype the final modification in form. general rule the two horns of the mitre had as a
8
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
1 1
been in the shape of plain triangles, bent round so as to adapt
themselves to the outline of the head
By
the mitre was thus cylindrical in outline.
;
the
seventeenth century, however, the triangles had
been made spherical, so that the mitre assumed the
form of a pair of parentheses, or of a it still
By
possesses.*
considerable height
When
this
time
it
barrel,
which
had grown to a
—some eighteen
inches.
it was was kept in position by two ribbons, which were The end of knotted at the back of the head. these ribbons are well shown in the figure of St Dunstan. But the ribbons very early lost their usefialness and became simple ornaments, and the ubiquitous embroiderer was not long in seizing on these infulae, or lappets, and enriching them with
a plain cloth cap
the mitre
needlework to the best of her
The linen,
mitre was originally
ability.
made of
plain
white
and until about the twelfth century continued
was occasionally, though by no means
to be so
;
always,
elaborately
it
decorated
with
needlework.
Such simplicity, however, was not consistent with
we find was made of
the spirit of the age which followed, and that in the thirteenth century the mitre silk, '''
and invariably overlaid either with embroidery Traces of a slight
examples of even so early is
well developed in
p. lOI.
*
bulge
'
are
discernible
in
a
a date as the fifteenth century.
von Brandenburg's
effigy,
figured
few It
on
9
!
The Final Form of Vestments.
To
or pearls and other jewels.
1
1
such a length was
enrichment carried at last in England, that we read that Henry VIII removed from Foun-
this
tains
Abbey, among other
treasures, a silver-gilt
mitre set with pearl and stone
—weight
seventy
ounces
Although properly belonging to the seventh chapter, in which the ritual uses of the various vestments which discussed,
is
it
we have
been describing will be
necessary here to detail the three
which mitres which are vestments, other classes
into
Unlike
divided.
are
classified
accordmg to
the particular liturgical colour which predominates
embroidery, mitres are
in their
to
manner
the
in
A
mitre which
linen or silk, with a mitra
simplex
;
accordmg
which they are ornamented.
The background, when white.
classified
little
it
can be seen at
is
simply made of white
or no enrichment,
is
one ornamented richly
all,
is
called
with
embroidery, but without precious metals or stones, one in which is called a mitra aurifrigiata ; and precious metals
decoration
is
and stones
are
employed
called a mitra pretiosa.
The
in
its
different
are times at which these different kinds of mitres worn will be noted in their proper place in
Chapter VII.
The place.
be briefly described in this appears about the eleventh century
papal tiara It
first
may
as a conical cap, encircled with a single
crown
at
Fig.
iS. — Pastoral Staff and Mitra Pretiosa (the Limerick Mitre).
The Final Form of Vestments. the
brow
;
121
assumed about the time of the growth
of the earthly power of the papacy,
it
may
well be
regarded as symbolical of spiritual and temporal
The subsequent
rule.
which
it
modifications
through
passed were few in number, though con-
siderable in character
tion of a second
they consisted
:
in the addi-
crown by Boniface VIII (1300
Urban V (1362-70), and the swelling out of the body of the head-dress into a bulging form about the sixteenth century, much about the time when the mitre assumed the same A.D.),
of a third by
shape.
XIV.
'[he
Episcopal
Gloves.
— These
un-
doubtedly owe their invention to the coldness and cheerlessness of the early churches, and were in-
vented simply to keep the hands of the wearer
warm.
many
But about the ninth century they, with so similar
vestments, assumed a more
was prescribed
character, anci a prayer
them
on, as
sacred
for putting
was the case with the other and
They do
established vestments.
not appear to be
formally mentioned as vestments
Honorius of Autun, from them.
better
till
who draws
the time of
moral
lessons
Throughout the middle ages the gloves were often a large richly embroidered and jewelled stone is to be seen on the back of each hand. The gloves (cldrothecae^ or manicae) must be ;
carefully
distinguished
from
the
manicae
or
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
122
which the
brachialia^ the sleeves of coarse cloth
bishop used to draw over his arm to protect the apparels of his alb
from the water when administer-
ing baptism by immersion.
As
the hands are sometimes covered with gloves
and sometimes bare, so good deeds should be sometimes hidden to prevent self-sufficiency, and sometimes revealed
is
an edifying example to those
So says Honorius of Autun
near us. this
as
as satisfactory
perhaps
;
an exegesis as has ever been
given of the gloves or any other vestment.
XV.
The E-pis copal %jng.
— Although,
have seen, the ring was recognised special
marks of of
council
as
as
we
one of the
a bishop at the time of the fourth
Toledo,
and
was
by
regarded
St
Isidore of Seville as a special article used in the
of
investiture
a
bishop, none of the liturgical
writers of the earliest years of the mediaeval period notices
Autun
it
is
;
not
till
any mention of
reason of this
is
rest,
it
to
Honorius of
The
to be found.
not far to seek, and has been
given by Marriott.
and the
we come
Rabanus,
Amalarius,
occupied themselves more or
with the supposed connexion between the
Ivo, less
liturgical
and the Jewish vestments, and therefore, as they were not writing treatises dealing solely with Christian vestments, they omitted all mention of ornaments which had no direct bearing on the questions with which they were engaged.
Hence,
'The Final
Form of Vestments,
both the ring and pastoral
1
23
suffered, as the
staff
most ingenious torturing could not extract anything in the Levitical
rites
analogous to these im-
portant insignia.
The two
evidence of the monuments
conclusive on
is
proper
First, that the episcopal ring
points.
was only one of a large number of rings worn by the
bishop,
the
being
others
ornamental and secular
probably
second, that
;
it
purely
was worn
on the third finger of the right hand, and above the second joint of that finger, not being passed, as
down
rings are now,
to the knuckle.
usually kept in place with a plain guard
The
over
usually
was
ring was always a circlet with a precious
stone, never engraved,
pass
It
ring.
a
the
and
gloved
sapphire,
it
was large enough to The stone was
finger.
sometimes
an emerald or a
ruby.
Although the ring
is
distinguishable,
position on the right hand
circumstances, from
of
Autun
as
the wedding-ring,
(after referring to
by
its
well as by other
Honorius
the ring placed on
the finger of the Prodigal Son and the wedding ring of iron
by
*
a
with
certain wise
an
man
adamantine called
stone
forged
Prometheus
')
has
been trapped into saying that the bishop wears a ring that he
may
declare himself the bridegroom
of the church and
should necessity
may
lay
down
arise, as did Christ.
his life for
it,
124
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
XVI. The Pastoral Slaff.—Wt have
briefly
sketched the probable origin of the pastoral staff
now
preceding chapter, and come
in the
forms
the
which
it
was used during the middle
it
to discuss
and the connexions
presented
in
As
ages.
no department of the study of Ecclesias-
there
is
tical
Vestments about v/hich so much popular
misconception
exists,
will
it
be necessary to enter
into these details at considerable length.
As
utterly
concerning effigies
is
'
unfounded
as the
low-side windows
the idea
that
the
'
common
notions
and crossed-legged differences
the
in
positions
of
sculptured
monuments have any meaning whatso-
pastoral
staves
A
ever, secret or personal. a
pastoral
is
on the right
left,
represented
as
pastoral staff remains
whether
and nothing more,
staff,
side
and whether
its
of the
crook
in
is
bearer or
it
on the
turned inwards or
outwards.
Synonymous with crozier or crosier
;
'
but
pastoral staff' it
is
is
frequently ignorantly
applied to a totally different object staff
borne before an archbishop.
which we so often
see in
on ecclesiological subjects being crozier
word
the
—
The
the
cross-
statements
works professing to as to the
crook-headed and borne by
treat
pastoral staff
bishops, the
cross-headed, and borne (instead of the
pastoral staff)
/?y
archbishops, are derived from a
misunderstanding of the
evidence
of mediaeval
Form of Vestments,
'The Final
The
monuments.*
truth
is,
with which the crozier
staff,
is
that
125
the
pastoral
identical,
borne
is
by bishops and archbishops alike but archbishops are distinguished from bishops by having a staff, ;
with a cross or crucifix
them
its
head, borne hefore
many monuments,
In
addition.
in
in
it
is
true, archbishops are represented as carrying the cross-staff,
instance,
for
as,
New
bishop Cranley in
the
of Arch-
brass
College, Oxford
was obviously impossible
in
a
monument
;
but
it
of this
kind to represent a cross-bearer preceding the archbishop, and the slight inaccuracy was, thereperpetrated of
fore,
own
his
of the
thereby substantiating the evidence
cross,
the
that
fall^
making the archbishop bear person represented was of
higher rank than that of a bishop.
managed
at
Mayence, where,
Albrecht von
of
above
city
;
and
is
(1399), crozier
at
Bamberg,
wherein in
his
monument
he
left
is
is
1545, figured represented as bearing
cross-staff,
one
in the cathedral
brass to Bishop
a
was better
It
the
Brandenburg,
(p. loi), the figure
both the crozier and the
hand
in
each
in
of which
Lambert von Brunnf
represented
hand, the
holding the
cross-staff
in
his
right. * This blunder has even crept into the ninth edition of the
t
*
Encyclopaedia Britannica.'
The
bishops of
episcopal pontificalia.
Bamberg had See p. 102,
a right to afite.
wear the
archi-
126
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
of a
earliest representations
In the there
staff
knobs, crooks, and even
head
;
us.
The much
Y -shapes,
staff
was
however, the
time,
Isidore's
St
crook-head had become stereotyped of exceptional forms which
There
small.
meet
all
does the shape of an ordinary walk-
as
By
ing-stick.
is
office
shape probably depended on the shape
of the branch of the tree from which the cut,
of
a considerable variety in the shape of the
is
is
we
;
number
the
find after that date
a considerable
number of
staves
of about the eleventh century, either represented
on monuments or actually existing, of which the heads
are
tau-shaped
A
Eastern influence. bishops
remain
example
is
Saxon
these
;
few
with
or pictures of
knob-headed
a
betray
possibly
effigies
staff
pontifical at
an
;
Anglo-
to be seen in a ninth-century
Rouen.
The crook-headed
staff
however, by
is,
far the
commonest, and p only, form in which the bishop's crozier after
found.
Some
the eleventh
variety
in
Irish
discoverable
is
extent to which the staff
— notably
century the
is
crooked.
specimens
— the
is
the
in
In some
head
is
shaped like an inverted U, the form of the whole staff being that represented in the annexed diagram; but in the great majority of instances the head recurved into a
is
spiral or volute.
In the Irish form of crozier the front
shaped like an oval
shield.
This
is
is flat,
often
and
move
The Final Form of Vestments, disclosing
able,
a
hollow behind
127
which was
it,
almost certainly used as a reliquary.*
The
materials of which the pastoral staff was
made were very diverse. The stick was of wood, some precious wood, such as cedar, cypress,
usually
This wood was often
or ebony.
with
silver
or overlaid
gilt
In the twelfth century the
plates.
was shod with iron and surmounted with a knob of crystal, above which the crook proper
staff
The
was attached. was of bronze
crook-head of the Irish crozier
that of the other form generally
;
of carved ivory.
When
was
in all the other sacerdotal orna-
felt in this as
the process of elaboration
ments, the stick as well as the head was often
carved from heavily,
and
ivory, set
and
either
with precious
gilt
or
silvered
Beneath
stones.
the crook were often niches or shrines, containing
of
figures
saints.
The bronze
was decorated with the marvellous interlacing knots and bands which are Irish crozier
the special glory of early Irish Christian art. the
flat
front
the centre
and
stone,
is
of which in
On
often to be seen a plain cross, at is
a setting
for a precious
each quarter an interlacing band.
In the volute form of crozier a different style of
ornamentation was adopted *
The
Ireland
;
specimen.
;
the surface was not
ordinary form of crozier was the well-known
The
crook form was, however,
unknown
not
crozier of Cashel
is
a
earlier.
in
beautiful
—
——
128
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
ornamented, but the head was carved into solid forms
centre of the volute was usually
in the
;
represented some sacred person or scene, real or
some symbolical device or con-
legendary, or else
ventional patterns.
It
is
hard to say which of
two forms of crozier
these
the better from an
The
point of view.
aesthetic
is
graceful curve of
the volute certainly compares favourably with the
somewhat
outline of the Irish crozier
stiff
but
;
the feebleness of even the best mediaeval attempts
human
the
representing
at
the volute crozier
duced
while,
;
figure
from the
considerably detracts
when
a
miniature
in
artistic
human
figure
value of is
intro-
on the other hand, the incomparable
excellence of the Irish metal-workers transformed
the U-shaped crozier into an object of great beauty.
The
of the knots are always faultlessly exe-
lines
cuted, and the ornamentation
is
invariably in
good
taste.*
* This form of crozier
prophecy attributed
to
is
no doubt contemplated
Ireland, as cited in the law- tract
A A is,
sea,
their
'
tables in
known
as the Senckus
Mor
—
the
croinn cromcinn, a cinn tollcinn
miasa in airthiur atighe,'
Tonsured ones
staves
shall
etc.
come through
the east of their houses,' etc.
that
the
tonsured,'
are
cennaib'
'i.e.,
the stormy
crook-headed, their heads tonsured, their
apropos of what was said on coro?2a,
the
Tiucfaid Tailginn tar muir meirginn
*
that
in
druids of Laoghaire, King of
the
words
'a
p.
cinn
thus glossed in their crowns
It
is
worth noting,
115 respecting the bishop's the
tollcinn'
MS.
—
on their heads.'
'.i.
'their a
heads
coirne ina
'
The Final Form of Vestments,
The
following copy of the Lincoln Inventory
of pastoral staves (1536) points already noticed.
head and
when
staff
some of the
illustrates
It also indicates that
the
of the crozier were separable, and,
stored in the vestry, kept apart from one
another *
129
:
In primis
gylte w' one
a
hede of one busshopes
&
knop and perles
of sylver and
stafFe
other stones havyng a Image
of ow"" savyow'' of the one syde and a Image of sent John
&
Baptiste of the other syde wanting xxj stones
bose [boss] and one sokett
weyng
*Item one other hede of *
Item
a staffe
ys ornate w' stones sylver
*
Item
a stafFe
Item
j
In
staff
vv*
one
a stafFe
copo^
&
gylte.
ordend for one of the seyd hedes the vvyche
the StafFe sylver and gylte
*
perles
xviij unces.
and gylte and
wantyng
wod
of horn and
iij
circles,
a
boute
vij stones.
for the
hede of
copo'.
covered w' silver w^^out hceid.'
the corresponding inventory of Winchester
Cathedral we find entered three silver-gilt,
one pastoral
staff
of
pastoral a
*
staves
unicorn's
(presumably a narwhal's) horn and four pastoral staves of plates of silver.
Suspended to the top of the
staff
was
a streamer
or napkin, which, like the lappet of the mitre, was called the infula.
This was originally introduced
to keep the moisture of the hand from tarnishing
the metal of the a
'
banner It will
'
staff.
The
symbolists think
it
is
of some sort or other.
be convenient, before proceeding to the
discussion of the next vestment
on our
list,
9
to give
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
130
a few particulars regarding the archbishop's cross.
This
necessary owing to the confusion already-
is
noticed, which exists between the crozier and the cross
but as the cross cannot strictly be included
;
in a catalogue of ecclesiastical vestments,
make The custom of
we
shall
our notes as brief as possible.
cross
a
preceding an archbishop with
was introduced throughout the Western
Church about the beginning of the twelfth It
lains, *
century.
was carried by one of the archbishop's chap-
who
croyser,'
in this
country received the name of
or cross-bearer, for that reason.
The
was usually richly ornamented with metalwork and jewels, and often, if not always, bore a figure of Our Lord on each face, so that the eyes of the archbishop were fixed on the one, those of cross
the people on the other.
The
circumstance of highest importance con-
nected with the archbishop's cross, so far as it the prelate concerns our present purpose, is this :
never bore the cross himself, except on the one occasion of his investiture. cross into his it
on to
own
He
then received the
hands, but immediately passed
his cross-bearer.
The Pope illustrations
is
often in mediaeval
represented
as
monuments and
preceded by a cross
with three transoms of different length, the upper-
most being the shortest, the lowermost the longest. This is simply the result of a desire on the part of
1
The Final Form of Vestments. the artist to improve
upon
1
3
the patriarch's cross of
the Eastern Church, which appears to have
two
transoms, the upper transom being in point of fact
of the board on which the superon the cross was written.
a representation
scription
One more tion
—
may
staff
be worth a passing
the staff borne as an
menemblem of authority
by the ruler of the choir, who looked singing and behaviour of the boys. silver,
The
after
the
This was of
with a cross-head. false
conceptions
about the crozier have
probably arisen from an inaccurate etymological analogy with the word connects
it
The
cross.
with such words
as
true derivation
our crotchet and
crook.
The symbolism of the
shepherd's staff
is
naturally
the leading thought in the minds of the mystics. It
was probably, however, considered too obvious, cast about to find yet further secret
and they
Thus, Honorius
meanings.
commanded staff
only
'
the apostles to
signifies
much more
'
the
to the
that the point
'
is
He
idle,
out to preach,
the staff which sustains the
authority of teaching,'
same
effect.
and
Innocent III says
sharp, the middle straight, the
top curved, to indicate that the
on the
Lord
take nothing save a
when they were going
and then says that feeble
notices that the
priest
should spur
rule the weak, collect the wandering.
flirther explains
the fact that the Pope does
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
132
' not bear the pastoral staff by telling us that the blessed St Peter sent his staff to Eucharius, the
bishop of Treves,
first
whom
he had
sent, to-
gether with Valerius and Maternus, to preach the
Maternus succeeded Gospel among the Germans. him in the bishopric ; he had been raised from the
And
dead by the staff of St Peter.
this staff is
preserved with great reverence in the church of
piece
Thomas Aquinas
St
Treves.'
supplements this
of information by telling us that for this
reason the
Pope
carries the
pastoral
when
staff
pontificating in Treves."^
The
episcopal staff
following inscriptions iratus fueris ball
bottom,
alleged to have borne the
:
round the crook,
misericordiae recordaberis
below the crook, *
is
'
By
Parce.'
Homo
'
;
'
;
*
Cum
on the
on the spike
at the
these inscriptions the bishop
was warned that he was but
a
man
himself
;
that
and that he in wrath he should remember mercy should spare, even when administering discipline. ;
Whether is
these warnings were invariably effective
a matter into
XVII. The
which we
Tunicle.
will not inquire.
—This was
simply a small
variety of the dalmatic, appropriated to the use of
subdeacons and bishops.
from the dalmatic merely in being somewhat smaller. It was made of silk or of It
differed
* Sentent. IV, (1873), vol.
vii, p.
dist.
24, quaest.
913.
3, art. 3,
ad jin.
ed.
Parmae
The Final Form of Vestments, wool, and
1
33
appears about the year 820 as a
first
considerably later subdeacon's vestment ; but it is bishop's garment. than this that it appears as a appear with but In the ninth century bishops under the chasuble; the alba
one vestment the
between
—
—
ninth
dalmatic makes
its
and eleventh centuries the and it is not till appearance ;
tunicle illustrated about 1200 that we find the reference bishops. in paintings or effigies of present the of the table given in the early part
A
to
evidence points chapter will show that the literary in the
same
common
fate
of
church, and the vestments of the mediaeval
it,
The all
direction.
too,
tunicle did not escape the
became overlaid with needlework,
in a
first
subdeacon, then (as strip across the breast of the the vestments of the this would not show under
The
bishop) on the rest of the surface.
Bishop Goodrick's brass
at
tunicle
on
Ely Cathedral— one of
vestment in Engthe latest representations of this richly embroidered as the dalmatic.
land— is In
a
as
few episcopal
effigies
of the
century the dalmatic alone appears. being worn beneath the dalmatic, naturallv smaller, was hidden.
This
thirteenth
The and
tunicle
being
difficulty was,
simple prohowever, very soon surmounted by the cess of shortening the dalmatic.
Properly, tunicle
the
dalmatic
only
is
of the subdeacon seldom,
fringed; if ever,
the
shows
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
134
manner of ornamentation. But in the later episcopal effigies it is by no means uncommon.
this
XVIII. The Orale^ or, as it is now called, the Fanon^ is described by Dr Rock as an oblong '
some length,
piece of white silk gauze of across
its
striped
width with narrow bars, alternately gold,
...
blue, and red.
It
is
the Pope like a hood, and
upon the head of two ends are wrapped
cast
its
one over the right, the other over the left shoulder, and thus kept until the holy father is clad in the chasuble, when the fanon is thrown back and made to hang smoothly and gracefully above and all around the shoulders of that vestment,
like
a
tippet.'
From
the orale being supposed to represent the
ephod, as well on,
the
it
is
as
from the manner of
probable that
amice.
It
is
its
was an evolution from
it
mentioned by
not
being put
liturgical
writers before Innocent III, and does not appear in
paintings or
monuments of much
older date
;
it
therefore seems to have been assumed about the
twelfth or thirteenth century.
XIX. The mention
to
As
an
late
Pectoral Cross.
ornament
introduction
of Innocent
important
this
official
III
;
it
episcopal is
ornament.
of comparatively
appears
and Durandus,
references which these it
first
it
— We must not omit in
and
liturgiologists
was evidently regarded by them
the pages
from
make
the to
it,
as exclusively
The Final Form of Vestments.
1
35
Thus, Innocent says confined to the Pope's use. cingu'Romanus autem pontifex post albam et :
orale,
lum assumit
super
replicat
reasons
'
;
pro lamina
quod
circa
humeros'
caput involvit et
et quia signo crucis auri
quam
pontifex
in fronte, pontifex
iste
ille
symbohc
certain
for
lamina
cessit
[Judaeus] gerebat
crucem
gerit in pectore.'
trace of has been unable to find any on the breast of an the pectoral cross appearing sixteenth century. ordinary bishop before the this time Even by the Popes it appears before Probably chasuble. to have been covered by the
Dr Rock
the cross was originally a reliquary.
On
p.
date in
which
of uncertain 29 we referred to a MS. at Autun, the monastery of St Martin
church in gives a
(probably) the
in the Galilean
tenth century.
This
from the lists displays of the Western Church, and
somewhat
different catalogue
of the rest some Eastern influence.
and
worn
details the vestments
The
pallium, casula, alba,
they appear idenstola are described so that
elsewhere with the corresponding vestments under the name vestithe maniple also appears, addition the mentum parvolum ; and we have in any manicae, which do not appear in ;
tical
mamalia
or
other Western to
have
lists
;
they are
been regularly worn
said in the
'like
the arms of
and to have covered This points to vestments priests.'
'
MS.
bracelets,'
kings
and
after the style
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
136 of the
of the Greeks, which will be
tTTijiiaviKia
noticed in their proper place in Chapter V.
We
have
now
described the vestments
worn by
the priests of the Western Church at the Eucharistic service,
and
are thus in a position to give a satis-
factory answer to the question,
*
Were
they adap-
tations of the Jewish, or natural evolutions of the
Roman
We
costume?'
have seen that the jeweller,
the goldsmith, and the embroiderer conspired to
make
the vestments of the middle ages as gorgeous
as possible,
and that therein, and
in
but as ages
we go back
some few other
Mosaic costume
particulars, they resembled the
first
drops
off,
of Christianity
all
the
glitter
vestment after vestment disappears, the
three
plain
till
we
white vestments of the
century, from which
nary costume of a
it
is
Roman
reach
fourth
but a step to the ordicitizen
of good position
during the second or third century of our
We
have also seen that
all
era.
attempts at drawing
hidden
meanings from the vestments
results,
when not
and unconvincing.
;
nearer and nearer to the
far-fetched,
are
fail
;
the
contradictory
CHAPTER
IV.
HISTORY AND CHARACTERISTICS OF THE PROCESSIONAL VESTMENTS THE ORNAMENTATION OF VESTMENTS.
THE
;
addition to the garments already described,
IN which
are
more properly appropriated to the
Eucharistic service, there are a few which
assumed on other occasions by the clergy of
are
the Western Church.
The
occasions
these particular vestments are
upon which
worn belong properly
to the province of Chapter VII.
We
accordingly
postpone the discussion of them until that chapter is
reached,
concerning ourselves
development, shape,
and
here with
the
ornamentation of the
vestments themselves.
The this
vestments which we have to describe in
chapter are
the
cassock,
surplice
(with
its
modifications, the rochet and cotta), almuce, and cope.
These
constitute the so-called processional
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
138 vestments
;
a
misnomer, because they are not ex-
clusively appropriated to processions. besides, certain others of a
There
more general
are,
character,
not strictly falling under the head of either Eucharistic
or Processional vesture, and they will be more
conveniently described in this chapter also.
These
mozetta, the
Roman
are
the
cope, the
canon's
and the various types of sacerdotal head-
collar,
dress.
The
I.
outer
and
Cassock,
— The
cassock was the
gown which was worn by
lay,
everyone, clerical
male and female, during the eleventh,
When
twelfth, and succeeding centuries.
abandoned short
coat,
matters, astical
to
for
the very
that
conservatism
vestments
as the
ecclesi-
due, prevented the clergy from
distinctive
laity,
and
left the
outer garment of the
clergy on ordinary occasions, as
The
was
ecclesiastical
in
which the very existence of is
it
much more convenient
following the example of the cassock
long
it
remains.
still
dignity attaching to a long garment was also
probably a factor in causing
its
ecclesiastical
re-
tention.
The
Eucharistic vestments were placed over the
cassock, as the cassock was placed over the under-
garments of the wearer.
But
concealed by the long alb that
was so
it it
entirely
could scarcely
be regarded as an essential part of the vestments for the Eucharistic
office.
The
case
was
different.
'
History of the Processional Vestments. however, when the sional
for
attire,
was vested
priest
the
lower
and
its
discuss this
the
was consequently
complete the processional
surplice,
'
to
essential
We
outfit.
vestment under the head
rather than under the head
proces-
in
end of the cassock
appeared very prominently under presence
139
therefore
Processional
Eucharistic/
*
Cassocks were originally invented for purposes
of warmth, and hence were lined with
furs.
This
custom was retained when the cassock became exclusively a clerical dress, and
monuments of
we
ecclesiastics indications at the wrist
The
that the cassock was so lined.
the vestment was invariably black ecclesiastics,
scarlet
and
high occasions for acolytes
for the
The
The
Pope, white.
some other precious kind
digni-
for
;
cassock as we find
it
represented on mediaeval
monuments was probably open do not to the
to the breast
recollect having observed
modern
neck to hem
cassock, with a
boiler with a close
In some parts of France and in
kept in place by a sash
;
;
I
any counterpart
row of buttons from
(humorously compared
Grimthorpe to a is
and on
prelates,
but ordinary priests were strictly forbidden wear anything more costly than sheepskin.
taries
to
ordinary
for
cassock was lined was
fur with which the or
;
colour of
of divinity and
for doctors
cardinals, purple for bishops
ermine
often find in
by
row of
Rome
this also
Lord
rivets!).
the cassock
is
a
modern
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
140
innovation probably suggested by the custom of
members of The
II.
the monastic orders. Surplice.
— From
its
fur
the
lining,
cassock was called in mediaeval Latin the pellicea the
name
the vestment which was
—
a
name which
modifications into
;
was accordingly given to
superpellicea
worn immediately over
it
has passed by natural phonetic *
surplice.'
remembered that the alba of the second or transitional epoch was a very much more ample vestment than its successor in mediaeval be
will
It
times.
times
The all
three) had to be put
possibility if It
chasuble, tunicle, or dalmatic (some-
on over
had maintained
it
its
it
—an im-
original size.
accordingly was contracted in size in order to
adapt
doing
itself to the
the
new requirements
;
but in so
needleworkers went to the other ex-
treme, and produced a vestment which threatened to
become
made
was
intractable every time the attempt
to put
it
on over the cassock when the
latter
article
of dress was thick and lined with
These
difficulties
fur.
resulted in the invention of a
new garment, which
retained the amplitude of the
old alba^ and was worn only
when no vestment of
importance (except the cope, which was adaptable)
was put on over alb
it.
was retained
for
This was the surplice.
the Eucharistic service,
the upper vestments would veniently.
The
lie
over
it
as
more con-
History of the Processional Vestments.
The
surplice
was
a sleeved
141
vestment of white
linen, plain, except at the neck, where there was occasionally a little embroidery in coloured threads.
and hung down to a considerable length when the hands were conThe joined, as they generally are in monuments.
The
sleeves were very
full,
was put on by being passed over the head, the modern surplice, open in exactly like the alb front, and secured at the neck with a button, was
surplice
;
invented within the
last
two hundred
years,
and
was designed to make the assumption of the vestment possible without disarranging the enormous wigs which were worn during the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. III.
the alb.
The %ochet
The
is
a
still
further modification of
sleeves are reduced to a
or totally absent.
It
minimum
appears to have been worn,
though not always, by choristers, and there is also evidence that it was the form of surplice favoured
by bishops.
Thus we
read
:
'
Item
8 surplices for the quere.
*
Item
3 rochets/i?r children'
— Inventory of
St
Mary
Hill,
London. 'Bis adiit [Richardus de Bury]
summum
pontificem Jo-
hannem et recepit ab eo rochetam in loco bullae pro proximo episcopatu vacante ex post in Anglia.'— Will, de Chambre, 'Continuatio p.
Hist.
127.
IV. The Cotta.
Dunelmensis,'
—This
is
Surtees
Society,
1839,
a surplice, considerably
modified, which has the advantage of being cheap,
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
142 and
is
accordingly worn as a substitute for the
longer surplice in poor parishes.
vestment, of crochet
It is a sleeveless
or crimped linen, which
work
reaches to the middle of the back.
It
has not an
effective appearance.
V. 'The the
Amys,
Almuce^''''
from
never very
also variously styled
is
or Amess,t was a hood lined with fur, cassock,
and, like the priest
which
protect
to
the
In winter-time the churches
cold.
warm
designed
— would
have been uninhabitable
before the invention of heating stoves,
had
it
not
been for comforting articles of apparel such as these.
was shaped so that
It
as a
hood, and
could
it
shoulders as a tippet, or be
lie
over the
drawn over the head
must have been very necessary
it
during the protracted services of the middle ages.
The vestment was was the cassock
almost always of black cloth, as
and the fur with which
;
lined varied in quality
and colour with the degree
wore an almuce lined with gray * This word
The word Arabic
fur,
the former
The muce is the TeuGerman Miitze). connected with this. The al is the
a curious hybrid.
is
hood
moxetta
article,
was
Doctors of divinity and canons
of the wearer.
tonic for a cap or
it
is
{cf.
Scottish mutch,
probably attached
to
it
at
some time
in Spain.
Both objectionable terms, as they lead to confusion with the amice, the sound of all these words being practically f
indistinguishable.
'
History of the Processional Vestments.
143
being further distinguished from the latter by the scarlet colour of the outside cloth ; all others wore ordinary dark brown
ment
fur.
A
singular embellish-
of this vestment consisted in the addition of
of the animals from which the fur lining was taken sewn round the border of the vest-
the
tails
ment. about the year 1300 the almuce, as a hood, was superseded by a cap, which will be described
At
in its proper place.
It
was therefore thrown back,
and suffered to fall behind, somewhat after the fashion of the hood worn in our modern univerIn order to prevent it from slipping off sities.
was sewn in front, so that an aperture was made through which the head of During the fourthe wearer had to be passed.
when
in this position,
teenth century
it
it
gradually almost entirely lost
its
hood shape, and became more and more like a being the tippet, the only relic of its original form which hung in front somewhat like the ends of a stole, and which were doubtless the remains of the strings with which the original hood was fastened. The row of cattes tayles them) was (as the Elizabethan reformers called
two long
tails
'
also retained.
the almuce was in position on the head, Obviously, the fur was inside, the cloth outside. over the back thrown the vestment was
When
when
shoulder,
the
fur
would be
outside,
the
cloth
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
144
This
inside.
Mrs
transformation.
speaks of
it
and
a perfectly natural
is
in a
Dolby,
intelligible
noticing
in
most misleading manner.
describing the various changes which
it,
After under-
it
went from hood to tippet, she says, By this time, too, what was originally the outside of the garment had become the lining, and the fur the only material rendered visible,' as though some eccle'
siastical
ordinance or the freak of some
had brought about
tailor
And Dr Rock
says
' :
Not
the least remarkable
amys"
thing in these changes of the "furred
he
calls
it] is,
been
if
that
it
became, as
The remarkable
inside out.'
anything
else
clerical
transformation.
this
it
[as
were, turned
thing would have
had happened.
At Wells Cathedral is the monument of Dean Huse [ob, 1305, but the tomb is a century and half later), on which are sculptured, besides the principal efBgy, a series of small figures of canons
The almuces of
holding books.
show
a unique
peculiarity
:
the
tails
these figures are fastened
the breast by a cord which passes and hangs down with tasselled ends. them through Mr St John Hope, in a paper in Archaeo-
together on
*
logia,'
vol.
liv,
p.
81, has traced the history
of
the appearance of the almuce during the thirteenth
and fourteenth centuries by reference to sculptured From this paper effigies and brasses in England. I
extract the following illustrative examples
:
History of the Processional Vestments.
An
I.
effigy in
shows the almuce
Hereford Cathedral, '
like a short cape
145
circa 131
down
1,
to the
elbows, with long and broad pendants in front,
and turned back round the neck standing ever,
collar.
The
chief point to notice,
that the vestment
is
like a loose, high-
and not joined on the
how-
quite open in front
is
showing that
breast,
it
was
put on like a woman's shawl.' 2.
1320,
Another shows
in the
effigy
a
same
cathedral, circa
arrangement
similar
with
the
addition of a large morse to fasten the almuce. 3.
In the fifteenth century,
when
the pendent
became common, we find two Cobham, Kent, one showing the almuce
tails
brasses
the breast by a brooch, the other showing all
down 4.
In
a
is
drawing
at
almuces laced up the
5.
An
fifteenth
in
*
century
in
almuce
these facts
two
who
front.
Oxford,
stand near him wear
This drawing liii,
is
re-
plate 14.
from the very end of the
effigy dating
illustrates the
To
College,
Warden of Winchester
Archaeologia,' vol.
was joined completely rule the
New
represented in a furred almuce not open
in front, but the Fellows
produced
open
it
the front under the cope.
executed about 1446, the College
at
clasped on
St as
it
Martin's,
Birmingham,
appeared when the cape
across the breast.
we may add
that as a general
front tails in the earlier representa-
tions of almuces have plain ends
;
in those of later
10
146
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
representations (from circa 1450) the tails have a small ornamental tassel, or tuft, attached to their ends.
VI. The Cope.
—The
cope
may
date back, as a
vestment, to the ninth century, but in that form certainly not older.
more or
less
Before that time
it
it is
was nothing
than an overcoat, which the clergy
kept on in their cold and draughty churches or in open-air processions.
Saxon
It is
represented in an Anglo-
of circa 900 as a plain cloth vestment, fastened at the neck by a brooch or morse the shape is similar to that which we find in later pontifical
;
times.
The
shape of the cope was very
of half the chasuble.
It
was secured
much
that
neck
at the
by a brooch, and suffered to drape on the person.
The
material, at least in mediaeval times,
was
silk,
cloth of gold, velvet, or other precious stuffs.
It
was magnificently embroidered, jewelled, and enriched with precious metals, the embroideries consisting
either of strips along the straight edges,
which hung down
in front, or else
of these
strips
—
History of the Processional Vestments.
combined with
147
patterns running over the entire
surface of the vestment, or confined to the lower
border.
It
hard to say whether the cope or
is
the chasuble was the richer vestment in the four-
teenth and fifteenth centuries.
The
cope, being originally a costume for out-
door processions, was furnished with a hood at the back but when the almuce took its place, it ;
many other
degenerated, like so
vestments, or parts of vestments, into a mere ornamental append-
age
hood form (which
lost its
it
;
would somewhat have with
the
interfered
of
appearance
the
almuce) and became a triangular with
embroidered
flap,
usually
some
scene in sacred or legend-
ary
In
many copes
hoods were
absent, while
history.
these
others
to
were
there
several
hoods,
so
that
subjects
priate
to
the
day
hooked
on.
,,
,
be
This triangular
flap
...
,
gradually
assumed
sides,
ultimately the
till
disappeared rr flap
became
The was
*
appro-
could
Fig.
19.
of
Brass
curvilmear archdmacon Magnus,
altogether o
angle ?55T[s'hoJnT''pres:
and the
^'''"
r^'TT^' eluding hooded cope). •'^i°"^^
semicircular.
morse,' or brooch, with which the cope
fastened,
was the counterpart of the
rational.
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
148
was made of gold or of silver, or else of wood It was often overlaid with one of these metals. enamelled and jewelled, and was of a great variety It
of shapes.
The Canons
VII.
Cope,
or ordinary cope.
It
at ordinary services,
was
—This
vestment must
from the cafpa
be carefully distinguished
serica,
a simple choir robe,
worn
of black cloth, permanently
sewn at the neck, though open from the breast downwards, so that it had to be passed over the It was not ornamented in any way, and head. probably for this reason was not popular as an object for treatment
or
monument
among manuscript
illuminators
and engravers.
sculptors
A
hood
was appended, which usually hung on the back. This is a cape worn over VIII. The Mozetta.
—
the cope by the Pope, cardinals, and bishops in the
Roman
Church.
It
is
of white fur or coloured
Pope wears a red mozetta bordered with ermine when holding
silk,
according to the season
receptions
;
;
the
canons in choir wear a black, bishops
and (on penitential seasons) cardinals a violet on ordinary occasions cardinals wear a mozetta The vestment is probably a mozetta of red. descendant of the almuce, and kin to the chimere. ;
IX. The Roman modern vestment, It
is
Collar. is
—This being an
entirely
properly outside our range.
an embroidered imitation of the turndown
shirt-collar of ordinary dress.
History of the Processional Vestments, In priest
monuments
mediaeval
orders.
Con-
the adoption
clergy.
It
of a
should be
perfectly
and
lawn,'
along
its
*
.
Mrs. Dolby,
says
of fine linen or
piece
bordered on the turnover side and
Opened
.
wide
coJlar
of a cardinal
the
;
hem of
it is two turndown
one and a half inch
than
The Roman
violet, that
when made,
out,
inches
should be not more .
made/
straight
and three-quarter
deep.
'
short ends by a neatly-stitched
half an inch.
is
religious
of comfort and appearance have led of this collar for the ordinary-
siderations
*
of the
throat
exposed, as are also those of present-day
is
members of the older to
the
149
worn by
a bishop
is scarlet.'
X. Ecclesiastical Head-dress.
— Pseudo-Alcuin
expressly contrasts the Churches of the East and
—
West
in this
at the
mass bareheaded, which was not the practice
that the Western clergy officiated
This gives us
of those of the Eastern Church.
information as to the usage of the Western Church at
about the tenth or twelfth century.
following century a cap
is
noticed
*
as
In
the
one of the
marks by which a Churchman might be known ;* and it appears in inventories, classed along with '
mitres.
The
use of a cap at Divine service was a matter
of special
papal
permission
:
thus,
Innocent
issued an indult in 1245 ^^ ^^^ Prior and * Rock.
IV
Convent
>
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
150
of St Andrew's, Rochester, permitting them to wear caps [pileis uti) in the choir, provided that
due reverence be observed at the gospel and the Two forms of cap are to be seen elevation.
monuments
mediaeval
in
one a
hirettum
called
shaped skull-cap,
:
dome-
simple the
;
other
a
circular cap, with a point in the centre, of this
shape
'
—
^
,
which was
peculiar to university-
dignitaries.
The
latter
is
pro-
bably the ancestor of the modern biretta
;
and, indeed, in a brass
of Robert Brassie
in King's
Col-
lege Chapel, Cambridge (1558),
appears a head-dress which
is
a
connecting link between the two.
The
was
head-dress
always
except for cardinals
black,
a few bishops and others to privileges of
the
wore
King's
College,
Cambridge (showing
almuce
and
These
have reserved for the conof this chapter a more
elusion ,
had
scarlet.
We 20.— Bkass of Robert Brassie,
FiG.
whom
cardinals
been especially granted.
and
.,
,
^
,
detailed account of the subjects
with which, and the manner in
biretta-like cap).
which these various sacred apparel were decorated.
articles
of
Vestments, as represented in mediaeval sculptures or illuminations, the
testimony of which
is
con-
History of the Processional Vestments,
151
firmed by the examples which actually exist, are not as a general rule ornamented in a haphazard
manner over the whole tion
The ornamenta-
surface.
usually concentrated into patches of
is
broidery or jewel-work, which
em-
sewn on to
are
certain definite places in the vestment.
In
describing
already
noticed
the
vestments singly
the
positions
which
in
patches of embroidery were placed. convenient, however, to bring
all
we have
It
these
be
will
these particulars
together and briefly remind the reader of them.
The
alb was decorated with a rectangular patch
on the breast
;
another on the back
two more
;
above the lower hem, one in front, one behind small patch
on
;
a
each cufF (entirely encircling the
and a narrow binding round the neck. The patches on the hem were sometimes suspended loose from the belt, and the wrist in older examples)
;
patches on the breast and back fastened together
and suspended loose over the shoulders.
The
amice
was
decorated
with
a
band of
which was practically the only part of the vestment visible when it was
embroidery along one
side,
in position.
The their
and maniple were embroidered along whole length they usually ended in a stole
rectangular or
embroidered
;
trapezium-shaped piece of cloth,
with
a
different
that which ornamented the rest
pattern
from
of the vestment
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
152 (usually
some form of
cross),
and fringed along
its
lower border.
The
dalmatic^ besides the peculiar arrangement
of fringes already described, was ornamented with a series of horizontal bands of embroidered work,
running right across the body of the vestment.
The
bishop's dalmatic
was usually embroidered
all
over.
was almost invariably adorned with an edging of embroidered work, and when the body of the vestment was adorned it was
The
chasuble
some of
usually with
the
4^
or
The over,
Y
the
many
modifications of
cross.
were sometimes ornamented
sandals
sometimes decorated with a
^
all
the
cross,
of the cross being turned towards
upper part the toe.
The fall properly had no ornamentation
except
its crosses.
The
were either not embroidered
stockings
at all
or richly embroidered over the whole surface.
The
was decorated with enamel, gold-
rational
smith's or jewelled
The no
work.
mitra simplex was decorated with
adornment
embroidered
;
work
the all
mitra over
it
little
aurifrigiata ;
or
with
the mitra pretiosa
with embroidery combined with jewels and goldsmith's work.
The
gloves
do not appear
to have been con-*
History of the Processional Vestments. spicuously ornamented.
They
often bore a large
jewel set against the back of the hand. The tunicle was generally quite simple
bishop
153
;
the
differed from tunicle, however, in no wise
the dalmatic.
Of given
the orale a ;
full
description has already been
we need not again
refer to
it.
vestments, Passing to the Processional and other to mention any but the it will be unnecessary a little trifling for, with the exception of cope ;
the embroidered work in coloured threads round vestments other neck of the surplice, none of the The cope was ornaany ornamentation.
showed straight mented with embroidered work down the bottom edge edges in front, and often round the and the
neck
as
well;
often
also
vestment was elaborately embroidered The hood, too, must not be forgotten.
the all
whole over.
distinction
is
For some inscrutable reason a ornaments drawn in name between the embroidered the remainder of of the alb and amice and those of the
ecclesiastical
dress.
The
former are
called
apparels, the latter orphreys.
which these vestments are attention for a embroidered must next engage our broad These fall naturally into three s^hort time. subjects with
The
gi
pups \ Conventional and meaningless devices. of Divine or beatified 2. Symbols or figures :
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
154 persons,
or
of
passages
Scripture
and
other
religious inscriptions. 3.
Personal devices.
The number of conventional patterns which meet us embroidered on ecclesiastical vestments is endless, and to attempt to catalogue even the most striking would be an undertaking the magnitude of which would only be equalled by its uselessness.
A
small
collection
of rubbings of monumental
brasses will convince the reader of this.
devices are the most
common,
scrolls or in repetitions
pattern
;
and
these
Floral
either in continuous
and variations of the same found combined with
are
patterns of the other two groups to fill up the gaps and spandrels between different figures or
But grotesque and real animals, wild men, and various other objects of natural history, all have their place though, if the evidence of the letters.
;
monuments be England
reliable, these
were not so common
which yielded Western Church. It is, of course, possible that some of these figures may have been intended as emblems of saints,* and in
allegiance
others
as in the other countries
to
the
may have
been heraldic
* For example, the lamb (besides cance)
may
but
;
its
it
is
probable
more sacred
signifi-
possibly be taken as symbolical of St Agnes, the
dragon of St George or St Margaret, the lion of St Jerome, the lily, sun, moon, stars, or rose of St Mary the Virgin, md so on indefinitely.
History of the Processional Vestments.
155
them were simply ornaments intention beyond filHng up space
that the majority of
with no other effectively.
The symbols of Divine of more
These
interest.
or beatified persons are
on the
are usually found
centre orphreys of the chasuble, on the edges and
hood of the cope, on
mitres, and on rationais or
morses, the orphreys of the other vestments being usually
conventional,
The hood
floral,
or
animal
devices.
of the cope almost invariably bore some
emblematic or sacred device, or sacred or "traditional history
;
some scene
else
in
the edge of the cope
and the centre of the chasuble often bore figures of saints
in
niches,
one above another, or
connected scenes from the the rationais
of a saint
life
;
else
while
and morses, which were under the
province of the enamellers (and were consequently
more
easily
decorated than the embroidered vest-
ments), usually
displayed
some more
elaborate
design in miniature.
Of the
greatest importance, however, are devices
of the third order initials,
— those which display the name,
rebus, or coat-of-arms of the wearer or
the donor of the vestment.
In
monuments
designs invariably are connected with the
and family of the wearer, while the ^devices recorded
in
inventories are
lected with the donor. tjhat
the
vestments
The
reason
catalogued
in
these
name
personal
usually conis,
probably,
inventories
156
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
originally were
thereof
made
for,
and worn
donors
by, the
during their lifetime the devices showed
;
forth the wearers'
names
names of the testators which were supposed
;
after their death, the
while
:
as
monuments,
the
nearly
possible
as
to
commemorated as they appeared while they lived, would naturally pourrepresent
the
persons
tray
the vestments which they wore, or might have worn, when celebrating mass or conducting
the other offices of church service.
Mediaeval priests and embroiderers seem to have shrunk from placing these personal devices on the chasuble, though such ornamentation
gether
unknown even
is
most reverenced of
in that
Thus, at Arundel, Sussex,
vestments.
not alto-
is
a brass
representing a priest in ecclesiastic vestments, in
which the
initials
chasuble.
The
initials
of the wearer occur on the cope,
or other designs'^
however,
shows
often
which serve
to identify
* Examples of an entire name occurring on copes are extremely rare. I only know of one the brass of Thomas
—
Patesley (1418), at Great Shelford, Cambridgeshire.
are
common
in
almost every county
common, though we have the famous with M's)
on
in the
his brass at
;
;z?^/>/^-leaves
;
so
(alternating
cope of a priest called Mapleton, Broadwater, Sussex
Initials
rebuses not quite
as
shown
while heraldic devices
are fairly frequent, either as complete shields or selections
from the charges borne by the of
priest's family.
The
brasses
Wm.
de Fulbourne, at Fulbourne, Cambridgeshire, and of Thos. Aileward, at Havant, Hampshire, give us examples of
both these methods of ornamentation.
'
History of the Processional Vestments,
The same
the wearer.
have been
felt
i^j
chariness does not seem to
with regard to the other Eucharistic
vestments, possibly because they were not so exclusively appropriated to the Eucharistic service.
Thus, effigy
at
Beverley Minster there
of a priest whose entire stole
is is
a sculptured
covered with
a series of coats-of-arms.
As
I
patterns
have already is
said,
this
group of orphrey
of considerably greater importance than
the other two, which cannot be regarded as other
than
mere
artistic
curiosities.
It
is
generally
possible to identify the personality of the priest
monument, even if the inor defaced, when these convenient
commemorated by scription be lost
a
symbols enter into the composition of the orphreys on his vesture. This helps us in assigning the
monument and every monument of which we know the date exactly adds something date of the
;
to our stock of knowledge respecting the chron-
ology of mediaeval art. As giving an idea of the number and variety of the designs employed by the embroiderers and enamellers to decorate the vestments of the church, it has been thought that the following table will not
found uninteresting. It is a classified catalogue of the designs enumerated in a single inventory of
^be
a single collection of vestments, the inventory of
the commissioners of
Henry
VIII, drawn up in
1536, of the property of Lincoln Cathedral.
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
158 It
has not been considered necessary to preserve
the uncouth spelling of the original, especially as
some words
are scarcely spelt the
in the course
same way twice
Nor
of the document.
has
been
it
thought worth while to swell the bulk of the
list
by giving details as to the parts of the vestments on which the various objects are represented, or the frequency with which those occurring more than once
purpose of the
found, the
are
simply to show
list
being
faintly the variety of designs at
the disposal of the embroiderer or enameller.
should be premised that this
complete little
list
;
in
many
is
It
by no means a
cases the inventory gives
or no information concerning the decoration
Most probably, how-
of the vestment catalogued.
ornaments of
ever, all
here included
interest or
:
Group Flowers
importance are
I
:
Fleurs-de-Iys (possibly heraldic). .
J
Biriis
and
'[-possibly
emblematic of St
Mary
the Virgin,
beasts, or parts thereof:
Leopards. Harts.
Falcons.
Falcons bearing crowns of gold in their mouths; (probably heraldic).
Swans. Ostriches.
:
History of the Processional Vestments.
159
Ostrich feathers. Popinjays. Lions.
Owls. Black eagles. Peacocks.
Gryphons. Dragons. Phoenix. Miscellaneous
:
Knots. Clouds.
Crowns. (Also
a
Group
few
others,
Group Divine Persons
properly
II
life
of
Our
St
Ditto, ditto, the Father above.
Ascension.
Our Lord
sitting
on the rainbow.
The root of Jesse. The vernacle. The Holy Lamb. Crosses,
Mary
the Virgin.
Lord^ and His emblems
Our Lord with the Cross. The Passion, in scenes. The Crucifixion. Ditto, with SS Mary and John on
The
under
:
The Holy Trinity, Our Lord. The Majesty. The Holy Ghost, Crucifix, and Incidents in the
included
II.)
either side.
i6o
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
Members of the Holy Host of Heaven : [Archangels, angels, and images, passim.]
Two Two An
angels singing. angels incensing.
angel bearing a crown.
Two
angels bearing St
John
Baptist's
head (properly
heraldic).
An
angel with a harp.
Scenes in the Hfe of St
Mary
the Virgin
and her embkfns
:
Salutation.
St
Mary on ;
the left side three kings, on the right two
shepherds, and an angel with St
Mary with
Ditto, and St
'
Gloria in excelsis.'
Holy Child. Mary Magdalene. the
Burial.
Assumption. Coronation. *
Our
Wm.
lady of pity.'
Marshall (donor of vestment) kneeling to the
Virgin.
Suns, Moons, Stars.
Roses,
lilies.
Other Saints and
their
(See
Group
emblems
I.)
:
'History of Apostles and Martyrs.' St Peter.
St Catherine. St Catherine (the
tomb springing
oil).
John Baptist. St Bartholomew. St
History of St John Baptist, ^ Probably in different History of St Thomas,
scenes. / Wheels (St Catherine), Keys (St Peter). The Majesty, SS Mary the Virgin, Peter, Paul, the four evangelists, and a man kneeling to them.
:
History of the Processional Vestments. Various Scenes in Sacred History
Eve eating of the
The The
:
tree.
massacre of the innocents. last
judgment.
Uncertain and Miscellaneous Subjects
A A
i6i
:
bishop (probably some saint). king (perhaps
King David).
Kings and prophets.
Two Inscriptions
kings crowned.
:
The hye wey
ys best.
'Divers verses.'
Da
gloriam deo.
Gracia dei sum,
etc.
Vox domini super Cena
aquas.
dni.
Also the following, which form a connectinglink between the second and third groups, being requests for prayers for the donors of vestments Orate pro anima Magistri Willelmi Skelton.
„
J,
Willelmi Spenser capellani.
„
„
Magistri Ricardi Smyth vycar de
Worseworth, Roberti Dercy.
„ „ Memoriale Willelmi Marshall olim
virgarii
hujus
ecclesiae.
Group Heraldic
III
:
Leopards powdered with black
trefoils (?
leopards
ermine).
'White harts crowned with chains on full
their necks
of these letters S.S.'
II
1
62
Ecclesiastical Vestments. Orphreys with diverse arms. Mullets. 'All
may God amend' (Rudyng
motto), together
with Rudyng arms and badges.
*A shield paled.' Arms of Lord Chadworth. Names,
Initials ,
and Dedicatory
Inscriptions
:
Ricus de Gravesend. T.S., I.e., O.L., P.D. (on different vestments).
Ex dono Johannis Reed
Capellani Cantar'
quondam
cantarie Ricardi Whitwell.
Southam ex dono Johannis Southam.
Ex dono In
many
early
date,
M"
Willelmi Smyth archidiaconi Lincoln.
vestments, especially
embroidery
the
is
among of
those of distinctly
a
Oriental character, which, if not actually Byzantine,
is
were
on Byzantine models.
founded
throughout
popularized
Mohammedan
These by
Europe
the
weavers and their successors of the
royal establishment
in
Sicily.
Often vestments
are found bearing Arabic or other Oriental inscriptions
;
these are
patterns
formed
sometimes meaningless, with Arabic
letters
like the
on many
Eastern shawls and cloths of modern times, but occasionally they give important information as to
the date and origin of the vestment which they
The coronation vestments of the German Emperors, now at Vienna, are of entirely Eastern
decorate.
character,
and the cope bears inscriptions
characters, telling us that
it
was made
at
in Cufic
Palermo
!
History of the Processional Vestments, in
1
Occasionally
133.
and
ornaments
Eastern
the
163
for
mediaeval
morality!), in order to counterfeit the
workmanSome-
inscriptions
are forged (alas,
ship of the highly popular Eastern looms.
we
times
find
clumsy imitations of Arabic words
treated ignorantly by the forger as ornaments, the
word being written
correctly,
though
in an obvi-
ously amateurish manner, from right to replica
reversed
balance
it
No
set
opposite to
left,
order to
in
it,
and a
symmetrically
country excelled England
embroidered
in
work in the middle ages. Matthew Paris's story of Pope Innocent IV's admiration of some English vestments
some
well
is
known.
His
holiness,
*
seeing
desirable orphreys in the copes and infulae of
certain English ecclesiastics, asked
where they had
" In
England," was the answer. been made. " Truly is England our garden of delights," said he
*' ;
much
truly is,
is
it
a well inexhaustible
thence can
upon the Pope,
much
allured
;
and where
be extorted."
by the
lust
sent his sealed letters to nearly
all
Where-
of the eyes, the abbots of
the Cistercian order in England (to whose prayers
he
had just
been
committing
himself
in
the
chapter-house of the Cistercian order) that they
should not delay to send those orphreys to himself
—
getting
them
for
nothing,
if possible
decorate his chasubles and choral copes.'
—
to
Matthew
Paris concludes his narrative by telling us that the
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
164
London merchants were gratified enough, but that many were highly offended at the open avarice of
Head of the Church.* This leads us to another point to be noticed
the
with regard to mediaeval vestments articles
of merchandise.
In the
Exchequer/ 24, 25 Henry
— *
their value as
of the
Issues
III (a.d.
i
241-1242),
there are several entries of expenses involved in
Thus we
purchasing vestments.
Adam
to
by our feast
de Basinges
command and
*
find 4I. 19s. paid
purchased
for a gold cope
placed in our chapel at the
of the Nativity of our Lord in the 25 th year
of our reign
:
same
also to the
24I.
6d. for a
is.
cope of red silk given to the Bishop of Hereford
by our
command
in the
same year and day
* Eisdemque diebus dominus papa videns
Anglicorum ornamentis
in
also
:
aliquorum
ecclesiasticis, utpote in capis chorali-
bus et infulis aurifrisia concuplscibilia, interrogavit ubinam facta puissent.
Cui responsum
est
hortus noster deliciarum est Anglia est
;
et
;
ipse, \'^ere
vere puteus inexhaustus
ubi multa abundant de multis multa possunt extorqueri.
Unde idem dominus papa
concupiscentia illectus oculorum
literas suas bullatas sacras misit
ordinis abbates in Anglia se
At
In Anglia.
ad omnes fere Cisterciensis
commorantes quorum orationibus
nuper in capitulo Cisterciensi commendaverat
aurifrisia ac
si
different pracelecta ad planetas et capas suas chorales
andas.
Quod
manifestum avaritiam Romanae Paris,
ipsi
adom-
mercennariis Londoniae qui ea venalia habe-
bant non displicuit, ad placitum vendentibus
M.
ut
pro nihilo ipsa possent adquirere mittere non
ecclesiae
'Chronica Majora' (Rolls
:
unde multi
detestabantur.
Series), vol. iv, p. 546.
:
History of the Processional Vestments. to the same 17I. i8s. lod. for
165
two diapered and
one precious cloth of gold, for a tunic and dalmatican entirely ornamented with gold fringe purchased by our
command and
the same year and day
:
placed in our chapel
also to the
same
47s. lod.
for a chesable of silk cloth without gold purchased
by our command and placed in our chapel also to the same 7s. 2d. for an albe embroidered with gold fringe purchased by our command and placed in our chapel: also to the same 17I. i mark for two embroidered chesables purchased by our command and placed in our chapel.'* The same year the enormous sum of ^82 was given by the King :
for a mitre.
has been calculated that the present value of
It
money
is fifteen
times greater than
it
was
in the
Applying this principle, we obtain the following results, which give a clearer idea of the value of the vestments purchased by
thirteenth century.
the
A X74
King cope costing
4I.
19s.
would be worth,
at present rates,
5s.
A rates,
cope costing ;f36i
24I.
is.
6d.
would be worth,
at
present
2s. 6d.
Tunic and dalmatic
costing 17I. i8s. lod. would be worth,
at present rates, ^^269 2S. 6d.
A
chasuble costing
rates, £t,^
2I. 7s.
lod.
would be worth,
at
present
17s. 6d.
* 'Issues of the Exchequer'
(ed. Dover), p. 16.
1
66 An
Ecclesiastical Vestments, alb costing
2d.
7s.
would be worth,
at present rates,
7s. 6d.
£S
Two
chasubles costing 17I.
would be worth,
13s. 4d.
at
present rates, £26^.
A
mitre costing 82I. would be worth, at present
rates,
^1,230.
Even
we
if
allow that these vestments, being
royal gifts, or royal furniture, were of larger price
than usual,
remains evident that a set of
still
it
And when
vestments was an expensive luxury.
we
consider the enormous number of vestments which were existing in the different cathedral establishments, we can hardly wonder at the
of Henry
cupidity
being
VIII
aroused.
Mr
John Hope has calculated that in Lincoln (of which we possess perhaps the fullest set of in-
St
ventories)
red
125
9 black,
4 for
copes,
choristers
yellow and
94
tunicles,
property frontals, It is,
7
in
i
purple,
found
1536
20 green,
1^6
blue,
2 yellow, 2 various, and perhaps
— 265
green,
6
of
commissioners
60 white,
purple,
3 I
the
in
11
various
all
;
blue,
— 52
red chasubles,
16 5
black,
in all
;
2
9
white,
dalmatics,
and 131 albs, not to mention other embroidered work, such as altar
or in precious metal, such
as
chalices.
of course, impossible to assign an estimate of
the value of this vestry, but even if
—
we reckoned
the copes at ^^^50 of our money a low estimate in the majority of cases these vestments alone would
—
167
History of the Processional Vestments,
be worth ^13,250 together. But this is pure guesswork and of no practical value ; of more importance is such an entry as the following, from the
Durham
old
'
Surtees Society)
Book of
'
(printed
by the
:
^
Wkitsondaie
Thursdaie,
Prossession of Hallozve
*
Rites
Sonday, by the Prior and the Monnckes.
—The
Trinitie
next morninge,
being Hallow Thursdaie, they had also a generall Prossession, with two crosses borne before theme, the one of the crosses, the staff and .
with
of gould, the other of sylver and parcell gilt the riche Copes that was in the Church, every
all,
all
one, and the Prior had a marvellous riche cope on, of clothe of ffyne pure gould, the which he was not able to goe upright with it, for the weightines thereof, but as men
Monnke had
did staye
He
it
and holde
went with
and duble
gilt,
his
with
it
up of every
side
when
he had
it
on.
crutch in his hand, which was of sylver
myter on
a rich
his head.'
In the private account-book of the last prior but one of Worcester* is given the following interesting bill for a mitre
:
John Cranckes gold smyth of london for al maner of stuff belongyng of the new mytur, with the makyng of the same as hit apereth by parcelles foloyng
*Item
to
:
In primis for v grete stones
Item
for
j^]
&
vj
-
-
-
Ivijs iiijd.
the frontes
Item
for xxj
xvis viijd.
stones prece viijd apeece to
stones sett in golde,
weyng
di. '
xiijs
vnces
Item
for xl
medyll
* Quoted
stones,
prece vjd a stone xxs.
in the Builder, 7
July 1894..
iiij^i-
1
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
68
" &
Item for
-----
xv smale stones prece
stone, to garncsshc
Item at
for iij
li.
Item for
vnccs
iij
&
iiijd a
the vnce
xij
iij*
vnces of medull peerll,
vj
Item the selver warke weys, w^hich
is
a day, besydes
Item payd with
Item
for
&
&
wokes
all
-
dryncke
lynnen cloth
to
-
(? zvekes)
j
vnce
&
Item for Rybande of
-
Reband of
Item
for
Rovvnde
Item
for red selke to
&
steche
di
-
-
-
-
xvd.
-
-
-
-
jd.
-
viijd.
brcde
brede
A
ij
yeards
yearde
-
ijd.
-
jd. ob.
----------
ijd ob.
ijd
about the bordure
selk
sow hytt with
all,
di.
quarter the vnce for past
a quarter of sarcenett to lyne hytt
for a case to the
Summa
xxxvjs.
-
iiijd
for
Item
xvjs.
vijd.
for yalovv thred
(Item) for
li
covvech ytt on
peril
Item
Item
xxiiij
xijd
-
for sylke to thred the seid peril
the peerll
Item
mete
li.
in all ," xiij vnces,
with the fassheon
to the broderar vj
xvs.
li
at xs the
vnce
Item
xxvs.
a quarter of fyne peerll,
mytur of Icthur
xlixli. xvs. the costc
-
-
iiijd.
xiiijd. iiijs.
of the mytur.'
Before parting with the ancient vestments of the Western Church,
let
us spend a few
moments
on another, and to the antiquary a melancholy, subject, namely, the fate which has befallen them. The number of actual vestments which survive Notwithto our own day is comparatively small. standing the scrupulous care with which they were * Sic, should be
viiij
or
ix.
169
History of the Processional Vestments,
and probably of moths
kept, the action of time
could not but destroy the perishable material of
which they were made
and
;
as so sacred
were
they regarded that when a vestment was worn out it
was burnt, and the ashes thrown into and washed
down it
the drain of the piscina, or font
so, at least,
;
was ordered by the ninth canon of the Synod
of Dublin,
11 86.*
however, far
England,
In France and in
the greatest havoc was wrought
in
the religious and political troubles of the eighteenth
century in the former preceding in the
The
of the two centuries
case,
latter.
destruction of churches and church pro-
perty in France at the hands of the atheistical
mobs of
Monu-
the Revolution was incalculable.
ments, glass and fabrics were broken and ruined, if not utterly destroyed, and the vestments and Processional crosses were torn
heaped up in the
from the
streets to be
treasuries
burnt
in
and
bonfires.
England the damage was perhaps even more
In
considerable, though
it
was executed in a quieter
and more deliberate manner. the revival of the
Roman
faith
In the reaction after
under Queen Mary,
were sent to the churchwardens of the different parishes requesting returns from them as orders
to the relics of popery, if any, which remained in
the churches under "
their
care,
and the manner
Worn-out vestments were also found useful ment of ecclesiastics, as we have seen, supra p.
for the inter-
loi.
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
170 in
which such superstitious objects had been dis-
posed very
of,
of
Lincolnshire,
these
returns
exists
for
and they have been edited by
Mr
series
Edward Peacock, volume
A
whenever they had been removed.
perfect
entitled
F.S.A., in a highly-interesting
English Church Furniture and
'
Decorations,' published in 1866.
In each return
is
what was done with the vestments
a note describing
and other pre-Reformation furniture of the church to
which the return
the following entries,
mens of the varied
From them we extract which may serve as speci-
relates.
fate
of vestments, not only in
the county of Lincoln, but throughout the country Jllford.
Itm one cope whearof
is
made
:
a clothe for the
colon table [a frequent entry].
Itm one vestment [chasuble] sold and dcfacid
[a
frequent
entry].
Ashbie iuxa Sleford.
Itm vestmetes copes
crosses
phanelles crosse clothes banner clothes and
ymplements
—
stolle
Ashbie iuxa
— geven
aulbes
such lyke
out of or churche in quene maries tyme.
Spillisbie.
to the
all
poore
Itm one vestmt with crose clothes
Ao
iij°
Regine Elizabth
[a
frequent
entry]. Itfn
an alb
—whearof wee have made
a surples [a
frequent
entry].
iAswardbie. Itni
daie and sold to
haue put them
to
two vestmentes were cut
Thomas
prophane
like
— brent
iiij
yester-
vse.
Bomnbie. Itm a vestm* and ye rest
such
in peces
waite and george holmes and the'
as fanells, stooles
and
yeare ago pte of the same and the rest
hath made quishwines of John Michill and James Totter then
churchwarden.
—
History of the Processional VestmeJits.
171
Braceby an alb made a covering At Castlebytham we find one cope one vestment and one albe were sold to Thomas
So we
find at
for the font.
'
'
'
Vpon
Inma' for the some of Vs.
sondaie was a
sevenighte wch he haith defaced and cutt in
Elsewhere, a vestment was others into
*
clorvtes
for
made
peces.'
into a 'dublett,'
children,'
or
hangings
'
for a bedd.'
Some churches had
ments
Edwardian Reformation, and conse-
in the
quently,
Mary's
lost their vest-
when they were required again
reign, substitutes
possessors
;
in
a
Queen
had to be borrowed from
These were
private owners.
in
*
restored
'
to their
few cases the churchwardens
thoughtfully cut them in pieces before doing
There
is
one other
series
deserves a passing notice
so.
of vestments which
— the vestments
the newly-baptized were clothed.
in
which
In the sixth or
seventh century these consisted of the alha^ the
The
sabanum, the chrismale, and the garland.
the alba was probably similar to the clerical alba form of the sabanum {aa^avov) is uncertain, but it was possibly not more than its name implies simply a towel. The chrismale was a piece of ;
white linen tied on the head, intended to keep the chrism in its place during the week in which these vestments were worn.
The
garland was a
chaplet of flowers with which the baptized were
crowned There
after baptism. is
a
rite
in
the
Armenian Church
in
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
172 which the
two threads, one white and them up under the cross, and then lays them on the person to be baptized. The white and red is obviously symbolical of the mingled blood and water which flowed from our one red,
priest twists
lifts
Lord's side, but there are obscure traces in early writers which seem to indicate that this observance was ot more general acceptance, and that the
present rite
Off.,'
vi,
a
is
corruption of something quite
Durandus,
different. c.
havin
82, it
the
in
'
Rationale
Div.
speaks of the alba of baptism a red
band
elsewhere
we
like a
'
corona,' and
find a combination of
red and white mentioned in connection
with
the
of
robes
the
neophytes.
These
vestments
throughout the week
were
worn
after baptism,
and put off on the Sunday following,
hence called Dominica in albis
depositis.
They were
either
re-
tained after baptism as a memorial
of the sacrament
— and
as shrouds after death
often used
— or
else pre-
sented to the church by the baptized.
In Fig. 21.
reduced to cloth, in
the
mediaeval
comparatively
church
elaborate
suit
this
was
one cloth, the chrysome, or chrism
which the body of a newly-baptized infant
History of the Processional Vestments.
173
was swathed. This cloth was kept upon the child for a month, and if it died within the month the child
was buried
mental
brasses
in
it
are
as a shroud.
Several
monu-
extant in which children are
we reprorepresented in their baptismal robes duce an example in Chesham Bois Church, ;
In the
Buckinghamshire. the white cloth
now
is
modern Roman Church
merely placed on the head
;
it is
too small to cover the body.
Fig.
22.— a Cope Chest, York Minster.
child chrism cloth was taken off if the and returned survived till the end of the month,
The
to
the
church, in
whose custody
it^
was kept. of vest-
These cloths were used for the reparation sacred textile ments and altar hangings, and other Thus in the fabrics connected with the church. read (1470-71) Treasurer's Rolls for Ripon we the following entries
:
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
174 '
Est de
cc'^^Ixvj
tot pueris
baptizatis
crismalibus de reman,
veslibus
Et de
compoti praedicti.
ultimi
vestibus crismalibus rec. de
c'^^iij
Summa
hoc anno.
ccciiij-'^'^ix.*
De
quibus. *
In
sepultura
mentorum, ordinatis
xiiij.
pro
puerorum
expensis
calicibus involvendis et
Summa
vj.
* There
xxxvij.
is
Et
viij.
in
reparacione vesti-
Et liberantur pro manutcrgiis inde ecclesiae, aliis
Et
ix.
necessariis
Et reman.
fiendis,
liberantur
pro
ejusdem ecclesiae,
ccc"^^lij vestes crismales.'f
an error of twenty somewhere in
this calcula-
tion.
t
'
Memorials of Ripon,'
vol.
iii,
p.
219 (Surtees Society).
CHAPTER
V.
THE VESTMENTS OF THE EASTERN CHURCHES.
THE
proverbial
changing
conservatism of the un-
East,
which
is
in
felt
all
ecclesiastical as well as in social matters,
make our The lighter.
task in the present chapter
will
action of evolution,
much
which makes
the history of the Western vestments so complex, is
or,
hardly
in the East.
felt
rather,
primaevalism,
The which
mediaevalism, shuts
out
in-
strumental aid from the musical portions of the Eastern service acts upon vestments in minimizing the profusion of ornamentation which plays
such an important part in the externals of Western ritual.
One
of our
earliest authorities
Eastern vesture (circa
715
he enters
is
a.d.).
St
on the subject of
Germanus of Constantinople
In his treatise Mvcttikyj Qewpia
at considerable length
into a discussion
of Ecclesiastical Vestments and also of Monastic
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
176
Costume, giving little
bolic
details,
which are curious, but of
sym-
or no value, concerning the alleged
meanings which they bear.
In the present chapter
we have
to discuss the
vestments of the principal Eastern Churches
—the
Orthodox Greek Church, so called, the Armenian Church, and the remote body of Christians on the The general appearance and coast of Malabar. '
'
style
of the vestments of these churches
there are, however,
minor
we proceed. The vestments and
is
similar
which
differences,
;
will
appear as
personal ornaments of the
Orthodox Greek Church
are as follows
:
The (Troiy6.pLov. The eTTiiiavLKLa. III. The e7rtT/3ax>yAioi/. IV. The (hpdpLov. V. The ^a>vrj. VI. The cfyaLvoXtou. VII. The eTTtyovaTtcv. VIII. The (j!)/xo(f>6piov. IX. The fxdvSvas. X. The x^H-"-^^^XVXI. The €^(x})(^aiJ.aXav)(7j, XII. The Traripeorcra. XIII. The lyKoATTtov. XIV. The craKKos. I.
II.
The Armenian vestments I.
II.
III.
are as follows
The Vakass. The Shapich. The Poor-ourar.
:
The Vestments of the Eastern Churches, 177 IV.
V.
VI. VII.
Fig.
The The The The
Kodi. Pasbans.
Shoochar. Sagavard.
23.— Armenian Priest.
The Malabar vestments I.
are
—
178
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
I. The GToiyapiov was, and is, Roman alba. The word is of
identical
with the
uncertain etymo-
logy, and none of the guesses which have been
made
are at all satisfactory.
originally a
Like the alba,
garment of secular use
Fig. 24.
Malabar
;
this
we
it
was
infer
Priest.
from the Apologia contra Arianos,^ where we read that one charge (among others) which was brought against Athanasius was that he had required the Egyptians to furnish linen (sroiyapm. says of the vestment,
'
Germanus
being white, the aroiyapiov
* 'Patrol. Graec./ xxv, 358.
—
Fig. 25.
Deacon
in
uipapioi',
AND
eTTifxauLKia.
i8o
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
glory of the Godhead and the bright
signifies the
The
citizenship of priests.
of the aroiyapiov
stripes
on the sleeve signify the bonds of Christ the which run across signify the blood which ;
stripes
flowed from Christ's side on the aside the symbolism,
the time of
in
with
stripes,
we
Setting
cross.'
learn that the vestment
Germanus was white, ornamented
probably red, upon the sleeves and
At
across the body.
present, while the vestment
white on ordinary occasions, on certain days
is still
coloured aroiyapia are worn, as will be shown in
stripes, are
In
on Ritual
chapter
the
Russia,
now
The
Use.
Xiopla,
or
confined to the aroiyapia of bishops.
and elsewhere to some extent, the
GToiyapia are often
made of
silk or velvet,
linen remains the proper material
;
here
though
we
see a
notable correspondence with Western usage.
The
shapich of the Armenians and the cuihino
of the Malabar Christians correspond to this vest-
ment and do not differ from it. It goes by other names in other parts of the Eastern Church these ;
are set forth in the appendix.
of
minor
the
Deacons, members
and choristers wear the
orders,
shapich ungirded. II.
The
tTTi/j-aviKia.
These correspond to the
Western maniple, but several
notable respects.
for each
arm
they
differ
First,
from
one
instead of for the left
is
it
in
provided
arm
only.
Secondly, they are not worn pendant on the arm,
—
Fig. 26.
Priest in
cttolxo-Plov , e-mTpaxv^i-ou, (paLVo\LOV, idovrj, CTTi/iaj't/cta.
AND
1
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
82
but are drawn round, so that they rather resemble cufFs
than napkins suspended on the wrist.
In
some early mosaics they are shown not so much as Something similar cufFs, as large false sleeves. seems to have been worn in the Gallican Church,
we may accept the testimony of the MS. already referred to on p. 135. This vestment for the two pieces may be said was for a long technically to form one vestment if
—
—
time restricted to bishops only, but priests and, since
wear
1600, even deacons have had the right to
Bishops only, however, are allowed to
it.
have the kirmaviKia embroidered with the ukwv of Christ.
The
kiTiixaviKia
are alleged to signify the
bands
with which Christ was bound.
The
Armenian
pasban
corresponds
to
the
Malabar Christians. Both pasban and zando are worn one on each wrist but whereas the Armenian vestment is more like the Western maniple, the zando is a false sleeve, fitting the arm tightly and extending some way above the elbow. ETni^iavLKiov
;
so does the
zando of the
;
III.
The
imTpayriXiov
is
in
essence
identical
with the stole of the Western Church, but in form it
differs
widely.
strip passed
Instead of being a long narrow
behind the neck,
band with an aperture the wearer's head
is
at
it
is
a short broad
one end, through which
passed, so that instead of
two
—
Fig. 27.
Archimandrite
in ^aLv6\Lov, i-myovdrLov, iyKdXTnoi', etc.
1
'Ecclesiastical Vestments.
84
ends pendant, one at each
side, there is
hanging down in the middle.
Eastern vestments
richest of all the silk
and
or brocade,
and
mented with jewels seam a
more
orna-
is
A
metals.
down
two
dividing the band into
ment
precious
conspicuously
runs
made of
it is
;
large churches
in
but one,
probably the
It is
middle,
the
this gives the vest-
;
stole-like appearance than
it
would
otherwise possess.
The Armenian foor-ourar and orro
are
resemble
the
The
tjpdpiov is the
the ewiTpayrjXiov. stole,
and,
Both
appearance.
evidently corruptions of the
IV.
It
is
that
like
Greek
many
taken for what
between
the
ornamentation perfectly
it
wpapiov.
identical with the Latin
shoulder.
left
it
resembles a pair of wings
;
the
unrestricted
embroidered upon
it
The
worth.
is
St
typifies the ministry
other similar statements,
wpdpiou
are
vestment when worn by
is carried on the Germanus informs us that it
of angels, in that
names
Diaconal substitute for
deacons,
this, like
Malabar
of this vestment, and
equivalents in
it
the
and
the
latter
is
may
;
be
sole difference
stole
lies
in
ornamented
its
in
a
manner, the former bears
the rpiadyiovy
Anoc Anoc Anoc, and
the
Armenian
Church
as
a
dispenses even with this inscription.
general
rule
—
Fig. 28.
Bishop in
(patuoXiou, iTn-yovaTiov, d}/xo
etc.
1
86
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
The
V.
simply a girdle which keeps the
Z^vt) is
and
cToiyapiov
To
place.
in
kiTiTpayJiXiov
it
answers the Armenian kodi and the Malabar zunro.
The Armenians suspend
the kodi on the left-hand side, which
wipe the hands or the
napkin to
large white
a
vessels
used to
is
when
necessary
during the service, and thus takes the place of the old Western maniple.
The
VI.
(^iaivoXiov
Western chasuble to see
in
;
answers in
and
it
all
appellation the old
its
The Malabar
respects to the
evident that
is
we
are
name paenula.
Christians have a vestment
called
the phaino^ which in appearance corresponds to the
cope
but
;
its
use assimilates
it
to the (^aivoKiov^ as
we should expect from the identity of name. The phaino is made of more or less costly materials,
it
ansv/er the
may
is
square (not semicircular) in shape
rounded
with
be
A
corners.
and
purpose of the Western morse.
here
material of the
stated
that
loop It
embroidery and
the
zando usually corresponds with
that of the phaino with which priests
button
it
is
worn.
The
of the Armenian Church also wear a cope-
Small bells are sometimes hung round the lower edge. The <^aivo\iov of bishops was formerly distinguished from that of priests by
shaped chasuble.
being covered with crosses
;
hence called
(jiaiuoXiov
TToXvaravpiov,
VII.
The
iTTiyovaTioif
is
a lozenge-shaped orna-
a
The Vestments of the Eastern Churches, 187 ment, made of brocade, and suspended by one corner on the right side of the eirirpay^riXia of bishops. It is
surface,
and
tassels attached to the three free corners.
It
ornamented with embroidery on
with
its
was originally a handkerchief, and it remained in in fact, it this form for some considerable time ;
remains a handkerchief in the Armenian Church.
Although properly
other ecclesiastics wear
The
VIII.
to
peculiar it
certain
bishops,
as a special privilege.
the
to
equivalent
is
dj/Liocpopiov
Western pall (though it is worn by all prelates, not by archbishops only), and similar to it in it is, however, rather wider, and is worn shape ;
round the neck the
lost
in a knot.
sheep
It is said
— presumably
to symbolize
from
its
being
carried on the shoulder.
IX.
The
indv^vaQ
cope, worn on
is
a
vestment similar to the
certain occasions
by Archimandrites
and the higher orders of the Hierarchy. The between it and the Western cope difference consists in its being rather fuller, and fastened at the lower ends in front as well as at
Small bells are hung round jLiaif^vag
its
of an archimandrite is
called
irw^ara,
Ka\
* The assonance cannot be translation.
Perhaps
lower edge.
'rivers
approximation our language
rivers
'
wavy
affords.
lavers
*
—
preserved is
the
;
stripes
and cups'*
satisfactorily
and
The
not ornamented
decorated with
that of a prelate TTOTafjia
is
the top.
in
nearest
1
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
88
method of expressing
fanciful
the
rivers of grace
*
which flow from him.'*
X, XI. The yai^LoXavyy] is \avyj) a hood worn over it. of a Metropolitan
is
a cap, the k^tiyyafxa-
The
k^uyafjiaXavyji
white, signed in front with a
black cross, that of other prelates black.
The
XII. staff,
but
naTtpecraa corresponds to the pastoral
shorter and
is
it
which
walking-stick,
The
particular.
is
resembles
it
handle
used as an ordinary
every
in
usually an ornamental
is
The
modification of the crutched or tau cross.
bishops of the Eastern Church wear no ring.
The
XIII.
eyKoXiriov
is
the East, and similar in
worn
in the
a pectoral cross,
worn
in
respects to the cross
all
West.
XIV. The aa/c/coc is the equivalent of the Western it is now worn by all metropolitans. dalmatic The Armenian vestments which have not been :
described
sagavard^
in
the
or
above conspectus are
priest's
cap
;
(ii)
the
(i)
the
vakass^
a
vestment which corresponds to the Western amice,
and
nowhere
is
from
else
in the East.
It
differs
in the collar standing upright instead
it
being turned down.
high dignitaries
and stones, apostles.
Jewish
worn
*
is
a breastplate
bearing
This
is
of
Attached to the vakass of the
of precious metals
names of the
as obviously
twelve
borrowed from the
breastplate of the Ephod,' as the vakass * Neale.
'The Vestments
of the Eastern Churches.
189
borrowed from the Western amice but the Armenians deny any Western influence in the itself is
;
dress, asserting the entire
origin
the shoochar, which answers in every
(iii)
;
respect to the cope are
vestment to be of Jewish
worn during
;
and
(iv) the sandals,
and may not be used on other Vartabeds the
work
(/.^.,
of
ignorant in
which
service, are kept in the church,
occasions.
priests especially entrusted with
preaching
and
instructing
the
the principles of the religion)
and
bishops substitute a mitre for the sagavard, and
wear a pectoral cross hanging by a gold chain round the neck. The copes of bishops are
by two
ornamented
embroidered with survivals
of the
strips
of brocade, of
figures
saints;
infulae of the
mitre,
attached to the shoulder of the cope. are
distinguished
consists of a cross
by
a staff of
if
the
priests consists
with a broad (at
the
Persia and
are
but
are
Vartabeds
which the head it.
permits clergy to remain
marriage hath taken place before ordinary dress of unmarried
The
ordination.
and
these
with two serpents turned round
The Armenian Church married
usually
of a black or dark purple cassock over which is worn a gown,
belt,
recital
of the
offices)
Armenia they wear
border called the kulpas.
a
Married
a cope.
In
cap with fur priests
wear a
blue cassock, a black gown, and a blue turban.
The
vestments of the
Nestorian
Church are
^ecclesiastical Vestments.
190
vogue
non-reformed
various
the
in
of the forms of dress in
simplest
perhaps the
Churches.
number, and are respectively called the frazona^ peena^ zunndra^ hurrdra^ estla or These correspond reshorshippa^ and msdne.
They
are six in
breeches,
to
spectively
from
degree
calico,
the
girdle and
analogous
the
They
elsewhere.
or
surplice,
and shoes, but they
stole, chasuble,
are
all
which
use
linen or in
the
the convenient
use
(to
some
vestments in
made of white employed being
only colour stole,
girdle,
alb,
differ in
and
heraldic terms) are
cheeky
blue, bearing crosses
of the same colours counter-
The
changed.
chasuble, too,
The
worked on the back. vestment, being
in squares white
simply
a
has a Latin cross latter
square
a
clumsy
cloth,
thrown
is
over the shoulders and held in position with the finger
and
below the girdle.
The
thumb.
waist,
It is
and
is
stole
kept in
its
does
not
reach
place under the
remarkable that the vestments of the
different orders
of clergy
differ
only in the quality
of the material, and not in elaboration or form
and
that they are,
as a
general rule, only
;
worn
Holy Eucharist or of Baptism. At other services
during the celebration of the the administration
the priests usually wear their ordinary costume,
which
The
differs
only slightly from that of laymen.
following
list
will
show the
parallelism
existing between the vestments of the East
and of
)
1
:
The Vestments of the Ka stern Churches. the
West
it is
;
detail,
and not
9
useful as showing that the differ-
them
ences between
1
consist entirely in matters
of
in essentials
= amice. — alb. = maniple.
[vakass]
(noi\a.piov €-n-LfiavcKia
(jOpdpLOV
J
= girdle. = chasuble.
^
(jiaLVoXtov
may
cTTtyovariov
compared
be
with
appendages
of
subcingulum. (x)ixo(f)6piov
=pall.
}j.dvBva^
=cope, approximately.
U
Xai^aXaixv^
mitre
€^u)xaixa\av)(rj
= pastoral staff. = pectoral cross. = dalmatic
TraTepecrcra
iyKoX-Tiov (TOLKKOi
Thus, the
eTriyovariov,
fiavcvac;,
'y^a/.iaXavyj]
and
have no exact equivalent in the on the other hand, the amice is onlyin one provincial church, and the
s^txy-^^afxaXav^v
West
;
while,
represented tunicle,
sandals,
dalmatic,
gloves,
ring,
stockings
and
have no Eastern vestments to correspond
with them.
This
is
just
for these vestments are
all,
what we might expect, comparatively speaking,
of mediaeval invention or Eastern Church, as
commencement of
said in other
and the
words
at
the
many of condition much
this chapter, preserves
and usages by time than does
the primitive rites less altered
we
application,
in a its
Western
sister.
CHAPTER
VI.
THE VESTMENTS OF THE REFORMED CHURCHES.
ONE
of the
main
differences
church
unreformed and
formed
lies
in this
:
a
between church
a re-
that in the former
the externals of public worship are magnified in
importance even to the minutest
detail,
while in
the latter the weight attached to such matters
is
diminished in a greater or less degree. Considerable variety
is
apparent in the import-
ance attached by different reformed churches to these
matters,
variety
is
and, in consequence, considerable
apparent in the extent to which they are
elaborated.
Those churches which
at
the
Re-
formation retained the episcopate, retained with in a
usages
;
it,
modified form, many of the old while those churches which abolished the
more or
less
and restored the democratic system of church government, for the most part abolished the customs of their pre-reformation predecessors. hierarchical
"The Vestments
of the Reformed Churches.
193
Perhaps among no bodies of Christians are the externals of worship so little heeded as among the English dissenting sects
;
composed of
these, being
seceders from a reformed church,
may
be said to
have undergone a double reformation, which has
had the
of expunging the
effect
from
ritual
their
In
services.
traces
last
the
of
consequent
neglect of order, the wearing of robes of office
has
become
entirely
optional,
not
only
with
the different sects, but even with the individual ministers
and where a gown
;
gown
definite shape of
robe remains optional.
is
is
worn, as
no
prescribed, the choice of
Hence, these bodies need
not concern us further, as the discussion of their
vestments would be merely an uninteresting and
morotonous account of the practice of isolated modern congregations. The four churches whose usage must occupy our attention in
the
present
chapter
are
the
Lutheran churches of Germany and Scandinavia, the Episcopal churches of England and of Spain,
and the Presbyterian churches, with ence to the church of Scotland. §
Of
all
I.
especial refer-
The Lutheran Churches.
reformations, the least thoroug'h, as far
outward observance was concerned, was the reformation in which Martin Luther pl-ayed the as
leading
part.
In
Liibeck
is
the
brass of the
13
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
194
Lutheran Bishop Tydeman,
who
died in
1561,
representing him
in full Eucharistic vestments, in
no wise
from the vestments of
differing
reformed predecessors.
At
his
predominance of the Evangelical church
many
(as distinguished
with the
Geneva gown and
attendants,
testants
;
in
Ger-
from the Lutheran) has
abolished vestments, its
non-
the present day the
exception of the
among
the Pro-
but in Sweden and Denmark, where the
Protestant Episcopal
is
the old vestments, with
still
the national church,
some modifications and
omissions, are retained.
The Lutheran
minister of the present day in
Sweden and Denmark is described ample cassock, or black gown, and ruff,
or collar, both in
his
morning and evening prayer.
as
a white frilled
outdoor
At
wearing an
the
life
and
at
Communion
Service he assumes an alb, or, rather, surplice
a white, ungirded garment,
over which
is
open down the front
placed a chasuble with a large cross
on the back.
The Swedish Kyrko-Handbog vestments sjorta
:
the chorkappa^
— answering
recognises there
messhake and
messe-
to the cope, chasuble, and sur-
plice, respectively.
\ II.
The Anglican Church.
The history of vestments and their usage in England subsequent to the reformation is not
The Vestments of the Reformed Churches,
195
lacking in complexity, and
is rendered harder to unravel by the heated discussions carried on, and
the
contradictory assertions brought forward, at
the present day by the various parties within the
English church.
no part of our duty here
It is
to give an account of the different recensions of
the liturgy published and approved in the years the
after
reformation
cerned with
the
we
;
rubrical
here only con-
are
which they
directions
contain to regulate the use of vestments permitted in the English church.
The
English
first
Prayer-Book, published
1549, contained the following injunction *
Upon
in
:
the day and at the time appointed for the ministra-
tion of the
Holy Communion, the Priest that shall execute him the vesture appointed
the holy ministry shall put upon for that ministration, that
is
to
white alb plain with
say, a
And where there be many Priests many shall be ready to help the Priest
vestment or cope.
Deacons there
so
the ministrations as shall be requisite
them is
and
in
have upon
shall
likewise the vestures appointed for their ministry, that
to say, albes
with
tunicles.'
It is quite clear,
evidence
which
merely intended
even without the documentary
is
as
forthcoming,
temporary,
the whole 1549 Prayer-Book.
Fagius
burg
;
a
or
and
Bucer
addressed
this
was
indeed,
was
that as,
In a letter which to
their
friends, describing their reception
bishop Cranmer, there
is
Strass-
by Arch-
given a short account
:
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
196
of the ceremonies then this letter, they
say,
*
In the course of
in use.
We
hear
some con-
that
cessions have been made both to a respect for
antiquity and to the infirmity of the present age, such, for
instance,
commonly
the vestments
as
used in the Sacrament of the Eucharist.'
An
show
inspection of the rubric will
was ingeniously designed to
The word
*
of
vestment,'
chasuble, the vestment
par
please
it
parties.
means
course,
excellence^
all
that
the
and therefore
often spoken of in that apparently general way.
The
'
alb
and vestment
necessarily exclude
all
being specified did not
'
the other vestments which
Hence those clergy were worn between these two. who preferred the old rites and ceremonies might read the rubric into permitting, or even enjoining, the maintenance of the old vestments,* while those
who
subscribed to the principles of the reforming
party might set at defiance
all
old usages by wear-
ing the cope while celebrating the
Another rubric the
first
Communion.
relating to vestments appears in
This
Prayer-Book.
is
printed after the order for the
the
first
rubric
Communion, and
runs thus *
Upon Wednesdays
be said or sung to
and Fridays the English Litany
in all places
communicate with the
.
.
.
Priest, yet
* With one modification only. ordered
to be
worn
plain.
shall
and though there be none these days (after the
The
albs are expressly
The Vestments of the Reformed Churches, Priest shall put
Litany ended) the or surplice, with
a
cope, and
say
upon him all
a plain
things at the
197 albc altar
Supper) (appointed to be said at the celebration of the Lord's until after the offertory.
following
this
in
Finally,
.
.
.'
Prayer-Book
occurs the
also
:
or singing of Mattins and Evensong, the minister in parish churches and burying, baptizing and
'In
the
saying
And in surplice. chapels annexed to the same shall use a archdeacons, deans, the colleges and churches cathedral all provosts, masters, prebendaries,
may
and fellows, being graduates,
hood as the whensoever And
such use in the quire, besides their surplices,
appertaineth to their several degrees.
in the church, or bishop shall celebrate the Holy Communion shall have upon execute any other public ministration, he and a cope or albe, him, beside his rochet, a surplice or or else borne hand, his in vestment, and also his pastoral stafF
or holden by his chaplain.'
The
revised
Prayer-Book of 1552
is
much more
It vestment-use. strino-ent in its reformation of in a condescends to mention vestments but once,
prohibitory rubric, in the
And
vestment-use
reduces
English Church to an almost Presbyterian
simplicity. *
which
here
This rubric it
is
is
as follows
:
at the time to be noted that the minister ministration, his in all other times
of the communion, and at cope shall use neither albe, vestment, nor
:
but being arch-
a rochet: and being bishop or bishop, he shall have and wear a surplice only. wear and have a priest or deacon, he shall
is to be In the Prayer-Book of 1559 a rubric vestments found requiring the restoration of the
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
igS
and ornaments of the
first
Prayer-Book, thereby-
setting aside the order of the second Prayer-Book.
At we
the consecration of Archbishop Parker in 1559,
morning prayer
are told that at
elect
wore
the archbishop-
After the sermon,
his academical robes.
the archbishop-elect and the four attendant bishops
proceeded to the vestry, and returned prepared for
communion
the
surplice, the
the Bishops of surplices,
service, the archbishop in a linen
Bishop of Chichester
Hereford and Bedford
linen
in
but the Bishop of Exeter (Miles Cover-
dale) in a woollen cassock only.
of the
in a silk cope,
who
archbishop,
assisted
communion
Chichester at the
Two
chaplains
the Bishop
of
service, also
wore
service they again
pro-
silk copes.
After the
communion
ceeded to the vestry and returned, the archbishop in
'
episcopal alb,' surplice, chimere of black silk,
and
a
neck in
;
collar
of
precious
sable-fur
the Bishops of Chichester and
episcopalia,
namely,
surplice
round
his
Hereford
and chimere.
Coverdale and the Bishop of Bedford wore cassocks only.
This passage shows us that the right of private judgment was exercised, even at such an important
ceremony 1559
as
as the consecration
now.
The
dale were given full
of an archbishop, in
Puritan principles of Cover-
sway even when acting
operation with his less austere brethren.
in co-
The Vestments of the Keformed Churches,
is
found
subject
the
in
it
of vestments.
the
its
origin and the exact
introduction are uncertain.
its
The
chimere
sleeves
but in
;
Since
has continued ever since as a dress
peculiar to bishops, but
date of
vestment, the
one of the greatest puzzles to be
chimere, which
Reformation,
new
us to a
also introduces
It
199
is
a short coat, properly without
England the
tailors of the Stuart
period transferred the sleeves of the rochet to the
Hence
chimere.
the
sleeveless rochets
cisms.
The
modern English
bishops wear
and sleeved chimeres
English
chimere
is
— both
black,
sole-
though
from the reign of Edward VI to that of Elizabeth but the form current on the Contiit was scarlet ;
nent, a large cape called the mantelletmn,
Roman
is
scarlet,
and the chimere worn England is purple. It is not unlikely, from the appearance of the by the
is
a
modification of the cope
possibly
a
combination of the two
vestment, that or almuce
—
prelates in
it
vestments.
1560 Thos Sampson writes complaining to Peter Martyr that three of our lately-appointed In
'
bishops are to officiate at the table of the Lord,
one
as
priest,
another as deacon, and a third as
subdeacon, before the image of the
crucifix, or at
with candles, and habited in This seems the golden vestments of the papacy.' to indicate that at Court (where this was to take least
not
far
from
it,
200
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
From
place) the old vestments were kept up.
a
of Miles Coverdale's written in 1566, we learn that the square cap, bands, and tippet were enjoined to be worn out of doors (* Zurich
letter
Letters,' vol.
6^, vol.
p.
i,
p.
ii,
121
Parker
;
Society).
In
the subsequent Prayer-Books, the
all
ments Rubric,'
as
it is
with
information
called, is the source
respect
of our
vestments
the
to
Orna-
'
famous rubric runs thus
Book of 1662) *
And
here
it
is
re-
This
quired to be worn in the English Church.
given in the Prayer-
(as
:
to
be noted, that such ornaments of the
church and of the ministers thereof,
at
all
times of their
were in
ministration, shall be retained and be in use, as
Church of England, by
this
the authority of Parliament, in the
second year of the reign of King Edward the Sixth.'
The
indefiniteness observed in the
rubrics, to '
which
Ornaments Rubric
and
this
is
Edwardian
this injunction refers, invests the '
with a
certain
vagueness
;
responsible for the long and violent
strife that
has waged around
condition
of modern Anglican
it,
and
for the chaotic
both
order,
in
vestments and other observances.
Recent attempts have been made on the part of individual clergymen to introduce certain details of the services
ritual
of the Western
Church
of the Church of England.
innovations
are,
however,
regarded
into the
All as
such
illegal,
The
Vest?nents
of the Reformed Churches. 201
and clergymen attempting to introduce them themselves open the
in
case
case
to
as
such
rulings
Folkestone
the
(Elphinstone v. Purchas)
reference in
The
prosecution.
known
is
ritual
the standard of
Among many
matters.
other
was
the use of the following vestments
details,
lay
declared absolutely contrary to the Ecclesiastical
Law
The biretta, chasuble, alb, and Holy Communion the cope at Holy Communion except on high feast days in of England
tunicle
at
cathedrals
:
the
;
and collegiate
On
churches.
occasions a decent and comely surplice
other
is
to be
used by every minister saying the public prayers or administering the sacrament or other
rites
of
the Church.*
This tendency to elaboration and to revival of mediaeval practices
modern growth.
is
In Wells Cathedral
who
of Bishop Creighton, cassock, amice, alb,
jewelled border. flaps, still,
over which
not, however, altogether of
and cope, the
On is
his
the effigy
head
is
latter
with a
a cap with side-
^imitrapretiosa.
considering that
is
died in 1672, clad in
More singular
the person commemorated
was an ardent reformer, is the brass of Bishop Goodrick at Ely Cathedral, who died in 1554. * For
a
complete analysis of the
'
Ornaments Rubric with '
elaborate historical and legal disquisitions, reference should be
made
to the published report of the Folkestone case
Paul, 1878).
(Kegan
202
He
Ecclesiastical Vestments, is
represented in full Eucharistic vestments of
Both these apparent
the pre-Reformation period.
anomalies are probably to be accounted for by the
Romanizing tendency of the reigning monarchs under whom both these persons lived.
The
vestments of the clergy did not escape the
of the
lash
of Queen Elizabeth's reign.
satirists
About 1565,
for instance,
a tract
was published
A pleasant Dialogue between a Soldier of Berwick and an English chaplain wherein are
entitled
'
:
largely handled and laid open such reasons as are
brought
for
maintenance of Popish Traditions in
The
our English Church.' Bernard, the priest tell
me
' :
soldier speaks thus to
But, Bernard,
I
pray thee,
of thine honesty what was the cause that
many changes of apparel now black, now white, now in silk and now at length in this swouping
thou hast been
in
so
this forenoon,
and gold,
black gown, and this sarcenet
This describes Bernard cassock or clerical dress
morning prayer and, lastly,
in
The
is
passage
;
as ;
flaunting tippet.'
first
in his ordinary
then in his surplice for
then in the cope for communion the
preaching
interesting, as
it
gown and
;
tippet.
brings the practice
of wearing a black gown at the sermon, once universal in the English Church, but
now
fast
dying
out, back almost to the reformation.
One more be noticed
English church vestment remains to
—the scarf
This
is
a broad black
band
The Vestments of the Rejormed Churches. of
which
silk,
is
worn
like a stole, passed
203 round
the back of the neck and allowed to depend on either side.
It
and by the
but
in the stole,
Its origin is possibly
more probably
it is
divinity
of collegiate and to be found
a modification
of University costume.
article
During
authorities
clerical
cathedral bodies.
of an
worn by doctors of
is
Scotland in
the
Episcopacv
of
imposition
the
period
Stuart
upon
the dress of the
clergy was of a form designed by no less a person
than his Sacred Majesty King James
At
that monarch's
own
I
himself
request the Parliament of
1609 passed an Act authorizing him to do
so,
assigning in
its
be
had been found by daily experience
'
that
it
preface the reasons for this step to
that the greatness
of his Majesty's empire, the
magnificence of his Court, the fame of his wisdom, the civility of his subjects, were alluring princes
and strangers from every part of the world, and that
it
was
that
fitting
bishops and
ministers,
judges and magistrates, should appear before those in
becoming apparel
his Majesty's serene
;
it
was therefore referred to
wisdom
garments and robes of
to devise appropriate
office
for these
different
functionaries.'
The
result of this
was an order
'
that ministers
should wear black clothes and in the pulpit black
gowns
bishops and doctors of divinity " " black cassikins syde to their knee should wear ;
that
204
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
[equivalent to the " bishop's apron " of the
modern
English prelate and the short Presbyterian cassock],
gowns above, and
black
The
their necks.
a black craip [scarf]
gowns with lumhard
their
about
bishops were ordained to have
according to the
sleeves,
form of England, with tippets and craips about their craigs [necks]/
In
1
63
worn.
Charles
1
In
like that of late
clerical
objected to
whom
chaplains
He
surplices.
when he
1633,
and
bishops
directed the surplice to be
I
visited
officiated
Scotland, the
before
him
in
induced Parliament to pass an Act
1609, giving him the power to regu-
costume
but
;
this
much
was so
by the clergy themselves (some of
expressed a fear that his Majesty would
order them to
wear
'
hoods and
bells
'),
that in
1634 they petitioned the King not to interfere the arrangements of his predecessor and
with
;
their request
§
The Reformed Churches AND Portugal.
III.
The
seems to have been granted.
of Spain
practices of both these churches are
mendably simple
:
a white tunic, or surplice,
a white stole, are the only vestments or at
any time to be worn, except
funerals,
when
a
Deacons wear their
com-
black
in
and
ornaments
sermons or at
gown may be assumed.
stoles in the ancient diaconal
The Vestments of the Reformed Churches, 205 fashion, right
i.e.,
arm
;
over the
left
shoulder and under the
presbyters wear theirs round the neck
and hanging straight down. §
IV.
The Presbyterian Church.
We
have already shown that in Apostolic times, and the first few years of the post-Apostolic
Fig.
29.-A Synod Meeting of the Reformed Church of France.
period,
robes
officiating
until
the
of
were not worn by the Vestments do not meet us
office
minister.
moderatorship
of
the
Ecclesiastical
Assemblies had crystallized into the Episcopate. The oldest Christian organization now existing
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
2o6
which the diordinal system of government has been restored is undoubtedly the Waldensian
in
Although
church.
church
this
not
has
been
proved to be older than the thirteenth century, it cannot be asserted that its foundation is not anterior
to
date
that
an impenetrable mist
;
rendered more obscure,
must be admitted, by
it
the doubtful authenticity of
documents it
— shrouds
its
many
of the church
early years. Unfortunately
cannot be discovered whether
its
clergy
wore
any distinctive robes when conducting its services. The chroniclers have not thought it worth their while to tell us, but it is improbable that anything very elaborate was worn, as a church which made a change so drastic as the abolition of the Episcopate would be unlikely to maintain the elaborate accessories of the
At
non-reformed church.
the simple black
gown
worn, as
is
in
present
all
other
branches of the Presbyterian church throughout the world.
The
task
of compiling details regarding the
vestments of the Presbyterian church
rendered
is
easy by the small account which that church, in but the all its sections, takes of ritual matters ;
same
cause also increases
direction.
appear,
it
Paradoxical
becomes
its
as
intelligible
difficulty in
this
another
statement
when we
may
reflect that
but few Presbyterian assemblies would consider
it
consistent with their dignity to take any notice of
The Vestments of the Reformed Churches, matters of dress, personal or
official
;
207
while on the
other hand few Presbyterian writers have thought
such matters worthy of their notice.
The
writer
has referred to liturgies in the English, French,
German, Roumanian, and other languages, representing the chief reformed Churches of Europe holding the Presbyterian system, but has failed to find any rubrical direction or reference containing
The
any information.
collecting of material
is
thus simplified by the small amount of material actually
available,
but rendered
difficult
by the
baldness of the records in which the materials have to be sought.
The
vestments worn by clergy of the Presby-
terian Churches are not so
or
professional
They
gown.
academical,
are
at
of the wearer's degree
The it
is
ecclesiastical as
the
like
most four
cassock, scarf, bands, and
black
much
barrister's
number the gown, to which the hood in
:
added.
is a somewhat ugly garment of which resembles an ordinary short coat
cassock
silk,
;
rarely reaches as far as the knees.
no doubt that
it
is
There can be
a modification, for conveni-
ence' sake, of the long cassock
worn by
clergy of
the Episcopal Churches, which was the inner gar-
ment, university and
The
scarf
is
clerical,
of the middle
a long strip of black
cloth,
ages.
wound
sash-wise round the waist and knotted in front.
The bands
are
two short pendant
tails
of white
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
2o8
now
lawn, hanging in front,
neck by an
fastened round the These survive in the
cord.
elastic
universities as well as in the Presbyterian Church.
The name was ruff, in
bethan type of
to the Eliza-
applied
originally
which must be sought the protobands
the ecclesiastical
;
and the use of a
box to keep the ruff in has caused the survival of the old meaning of the word in bandThe stiff starched of propped band passed box.' cylindrical
*
at the
commencement of
the seventeenth century
modern
into xhQ falling band (not unlike a lace collar),
of which the ecclesiastical
*
child's
bands
'
is
the diminution.
The gown Geneva gown
of the
is
—
a
known as the gown with ample
pattern
black
silk
sleeves and faced with velvet. It should be here remarked that there
siderable laxity in individual usage.
The
is
con-
cassock
and scarf are almost universally discarded, and, in fact, they were probably never very generally worn.
For the Geneva gown
gown proper
is
often
substituted
the
to the university degree of the wearer.
Very few regulations
affecting robes
have been
passed by any of the assemblies of the churches in the Presbyterian Alliance.
of the Church of Scotland
The General Assembly
1575 passed an important injunction, which, however, refers rather to personal than to
curious document,
we
in
official
give
it
attire.
here in
As full
:
it
is
a
;
of the Reformed Churches. 209
"The Vestments 'For
muche
as
in
requisite
functioun in the kirk,
all
all
vaine cutting out, steeking [stitching] with
of costlie sewing on pasments steeking with silkes
hewes
sarkes
in
;
kirk
silver, gold, or
;
wearing of
all
other mettall
of cloath in making of hose
by readers or
;
all
;
all
which declare
rings, bracelets,
kinds of super-
using of plaids in the
ministers, namelie, in the time of their
and using
ministrie
large
kinde of costlie sewing or variant
minde
the lightnesse of the
fluiteis
of
kinde
silkes, all
sumptuous and
clothing, as reid, blew, yellow, and suche like,
buttons of
stripes]
superfluous and
kinde of light and variant hewes in
all
;
all
[laces], or
is
beare
as
kinde of browdering
begaires [coloured
all
gowne, hose, or coat, and
in
velvet,
;
and suche
ministers,
we thinke
first,
unseemlie
[broidering]
and decent apparrell
comelie
a
as
namelie,
all,
their
office
;
all
kinde of gownning,
cutting, doubletting, or breekes of velvet, satine, taffatie or
suche
like
suche like
and
;
;
costlie giltings
all silk hatts,
of whingers and knives, and
and hatts of diverse and
light colours
but that their whole habite be of grave colour, sad
russett, lett,
grogram,
Word
sad
gray,
lylis,
browne
worset, or
;
as blacke,
or searges, worsett,
suche like; that
cham-
the
good
oi God, by them and their immoderatenesse, be not
slandered."*'
There
is
one
affecting
tion,
rule, or rather
the wearing of vestments in the
Presbyterian Church, at
The
;
is
the British Islands.
the minister of a recognised congrega-
hence,
when an ordained minister of
Presbyterian Church "^
least, in
bands are regarded as an indication that their
wearer tion
unwritten conven-
who
the
does not hoJd such an
Calderwood, 'Historic of the Kirk of Scotland (Wodrow
Society), vol.
'
iii,
p.
354.
14
2IO office
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
happens to be conducting a service, he does
not wear bands.
The Geneva gown Church of Holland,
worn
has not always been
Thus
the Presbyterian Churches abroad. till
recently, the official
in
in the
costume
of a minister was a picturesque uniform, consisting
of the old three-cornered
hat,
and a coat resem-
bling the ordinary evening-dress
long pleated
strip called the
*
coat,
mantle
having a
hooked on
'
the neck, obviously a survival from an earlier and
more ample gown of some kind, knee-breeches, buckled
the knees, and buckled shoes.
This costume was worn only when the minister was at
officiating at service.
It
has nov/, however, been
universally abandoned for the
The gown and cassock and Service
;
bands, are
scarf,
Geneva gown.
with
or
without the
now worn only
at
Divine
but in the early part of the seventeenth
century (in Britain as on the Continent) they were
worn by
ministers sitting in assembly as well, in
accordance with the decree of the Synod of Fife,
which
in
i6it
ordained
that
ministers
should
attend meetings in the exercise of Synodal assembly
gowns and other abul^iements* the Act of Parliament.
in black in
The
elders never
never have done
wear any insignia of
so.
^ Habiliments.
prescribed
office,
and
CHAPTER
VII.
THE RITUAL USES OF VESTMENTS.
WE
have
now
described
the form and
ornamentation of the different vestments worn by the clergy of the
principal sections
of Christendom
;
but
we have
only Incidentally touched upon another and equally
important matter, namely, when and
how
these
vestments were worn, and the liturgical practices
A
connected with them.
more extended account
of these matters will be the subject of the present chapter.
The
non -reformed Western and Eastern Churches alone need occupy our attention. The vestment uses of the various reformed churches are practically nil^
and
all
available details concern-
ing these Churches have already been given in the
preceding chapter.
Vestments were obtained by cathedral in
many
ways.
a
church
They were
often
or
a
em-
broidered for presentation to the church by ladles,
:
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
212
who found in the work of embroidery an easy and or else by the pleasant way of passing the time work. Some religious a as nunneries of inmates ;
were presented as expiatory offerings by consciencelaymen ; others bequeathed as a perpetual
stricken
Others, memorial by incumbents or prelates. again, were purchased with money mulcted as
compensation for
The
first
sins.
sacred function in which any vestment
took part was
own
its
This was
benediction.
always spoken by a bishop, and was in form of prayers
over
said
of a
vestments
the
all
suit
together, and the individual vestments separately.
The
may
following
be taken as specimens of these
dedicatory prayers
;
space in giving
as
in
all,
it
unnecessary to occupy
is
complete
sets
can be found
any Pontifical Benedictio
07?iniu7?i
vestit?ientorum simul.
Moisen famulum tuum
qui per
— Omnlpotens
Deus
pontificalia et sacerdotalia ac
ad explendum ministerium eorum in condecorem tui nominis, per nostra humilitatis
levitica vestimenta
spectu tuo, et ad
J* benedicere f* consccrare
servitutem pontificare
f<
ut
divinis
existant
;
cultibus
hiisque
levite tui induti
sacris
et
digneris
misteriis apta et benedicta
sacris
vestibus
pontifices,
sacerdotes
seu
ab omnibus impulsionibus seu temptacionibus
malignorum spirituum
muniti
et
defensi
mereantur,
esse
tuisque ministeriis apte et condigne servire et inherere, atque in hiis placide tibi et
tum.
devote perseverare
Per Chris-
tribue.
Oremus.
Deus
invicte virtutis auctor, et
sanctificator,
omnium rerum
intende propicius ad preces nostras,
et
creator ac
hec indu-
The Ritual Uses of Vestments. menta
levitice et sacerdotalis glorie ministris tuis
ore proprio benedicere i^ nerls omnesque eis utentes,
sanctificare tuis
J^
et
2
1
3
sumenda tuo
consecrare dig-
misteriis aptos, et tibi in eis
devote et amicabiliter servientes grates
effici
concedas.
Per
Christum Dominum.
—
Oremus. Benedic Domine quesume amictum istum levitici seu sacerdotalis concede propicius ut quicumque eum capiti suo imbenedictionem tuam accipiat sitque in fide solidus Amicti.
Bejiedictio
omnipotens Deus officii et
posuerit
;
et sanctitatis
Per Christum.
gravedine fundatus.
The vestment
Etc.
thus dedicated was sprinkled with
holy water after each prayer.
The
ritual
may
of vestments
uses
be
con-
two parts discussing in the first the persons by whom they were worn, and, in the second, the occasions upon which, and veniently
the
described
manner
in
;
in w^hich, they were worn.
The vestments
were
distributed
different orders of clergy in a
that in
among
manner
the
similar to
which the early vestments of the second p. 28), but on a more
period were allotted (see
complex system,
Some
tion.
as befitted their greater elabora-
hints of this system have already been
given in the preceding pages
it
;
will be convenient
here to amplify this information.
The seven
orders of the Western Church are minor orders [ostiarius^ lector^ acolytus)^ and the four major orders (subdeacons, deacons, the three
priests,
three
and bishops
;
we may
subdivisions, ^bishops
divide the last into
proper,
archbishops,
214
'Ecclesiastical Vestments.
and the Pope).
All ranks wore the
the major orders the
maniple.
.
alb^
All those
the rank of subdeacon wore amice and
stole^
and
all
above
and
all
above the rank of deacon the chasuble. Subdeacons were distinguished by the tunicle^ deacons by the dalmatic
both vestments were added to the outfit
;
of bishops, the latter with a remarkable distinction already described (p. 79).
Tho. stockings^ sandals^
suhcingulum (originally), mitre, gloves, ring, and staff WQvt peculiar to bishops
whom
to
these pontificalia
granted by the Pope.^
and to certain abbots had been
Archbishops added the
pall to this lengthy catalogue, and the
with
dispensed
and
orale,
the
expressly
pastoral
staff)
Pope (who
reserved
in later times the suhcingulum,
the
for his
exclusive use.
We sions
now
turn to the consideration of the occa-
upon which, and the manner
in
which, these
vestments were worn.
The
vestments worn at the mass by the cele-
brant and his assistants were those which described under the heading of
'
we have
Eucharistic Vest-
ments,' and of these one, the chasuble,
was worn
exclusively at this service and at no other.
In
Advent,
and
Easter, the deacons * prior
was
When had
between Septuagesima and and subdeacons were directed
the abbot of a monastery was also a bishop, the
also the right to
absent.
wear
pontifcalia
when
his superior
'The Ritual Uses
chasubles
substitute
to
of Vestments, for
215
dalmatics
their
or
and these chasubles were ordered to be worn, not in the usual manner, but folded, and
tunicles
;
passed across the breast like the diaconal
That
to say,
is
been of a as
narrow
chasuble, which must have
the
flexible''''
stole.
material,
as possible,
was folded
into a strip
and secured over the shoulder
and under the girdle of the alb. These were not to be worn during the whole service, however ;
the subdeacon had to remove his folded chasuble at the Epistle
;
Gospel the deacon had to
at the
cross his over the left arm, and so keep
it till
after
the post-communion.
There vested
is
but one representation of a deacon so
known
of sculptured
series
England.
to exist in
of
effigies
It is
one of a
ecclesiastics
These
north-west tower of Wells Cathedral.
have been described by '
Archasologia,' vol.
Mr
We
liv.
to which special reference
is
meant
alb,
and girdle
for the Gospels,
;
is
John
Hope
in
give here the figure
at present
Besides the chasuble, the effigy
amice,
St
on the
is
being made.
vested in cassock,
and a book, probably represented as carried in
the hand. It
should be observed that
* The it
difficulty oi folding the
at
the mass of a
chasuble without injuring
has led to the substitution of a broad purple stole-like vest-
ment, worn exactly the
St ohm.
like the folded chasuble.
This
is
called
—
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
2l6
feast falling within the limits
of time prescribed,
the ordinary dalmatic and tunicle were worn in
the ordinary way.
Fig. 30.
Deacon
in
Folded Chasuble, Wells Cathedral.
This peculiar custom was Franciscans.
The
unknown
to
the
deacons of this order put o.T
217
The Ritual Uses of Vestments,
fast-days, and did not the dalmatic entirely upon for it ; a similar substitute any other vestment tunicle, was observed practice, with respect to the deacons wore alh by the subdeacons, so that the alb and maniple. and stole only, the subdeacons not observed at the Vigils of
This practice was Saints,
and on
or of the Nativity,
a few other
occasions.
When
at
opposed to celebrated)
'ministered (as
rank
a cleric of sacerdotal
the mass, his dress was
and the cope. The the amice, the alb, the stole, at the mass same vestments are worn by the priest Friday. of the pre-sanctified* on Good on for the mass put Before the vestments are and prepare the the priest must wash his hands, purificator or napkin chalice, placing over it the
Above vessels. used for wiping the sacred unbroken an with purificator he places the paten, small linen cloth, over host, and covers it with a the
which he puts the burse. the vestments one by one amice, takes
it
the middle of
it
by
its
This done, he takes he
;
first
receives^ the
ends and strings, and kisses
where there
is
a cross.
A
prelate,
a surplice should be noticed, always puts on The amice being put in its place, before vesting. assumed, then the the alb and girdle are then Each vestment is kissed maniple and chasuble.
it
*
The Sacrament when
service
is
used on a day
not gone through in
its
when
enurety.
the Eucharist
8
21
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
before being put on, and a prayer said with the
assumption of each
from those
style
the Eastern
these prayers differ
;
ceremony
said in the similar
Church, and
little in
in
has therefore been
it
thought unnecessary to give them here. In an inventory of, the Vestry of Westminster Abbey,* the following directions are given in a late fifteenth-century hand :
The Revestpg of the abbot of Westnf
att evensong.
—
fFyrst
the westerer shall lay the abbots cope lowest opon the awter vv'^
the sayd westre, nex opon hys gray
in
surples, after that hys
Hys Myter &
Ames, then hys
Rochett and uppermost his Kerchure.
crose beyng
Redy w^ hys
glovys and ponty-
fycalls.
The Revesting of the sayd abbot
att syngyng hy
Masse.
—
Fyrst the westerer shall lay lowest the chesebell. a bove that
the dalmatyke and the dalmatyk w' y^ longest slevys upper-
most
&
and hys
the
other nethermost then hys stole
gyrdyll,
opon
that his albe
&
hys fanane
theropon his gray
bove that hys Rochett and uppermost hys kerchur w'
Ames
a
a vestry
gyrdyll to tukk up his cole.
Hys Miter Sc crose beyng Redy w"^ hys glovys and pontyAnd a fore all thys you muste se that hys sabatyns & syndalls be Redy at hys first cuyng whan he settyth hym downe in the travys. fycalls
This direction is important in one respect. It shows us the order in which the vestments were put on, it is true that, however, one would naturally infer from the order in which they are ;
* Edited by Dr Wickham Legg p. 195.
in
'
Archaeologia,' vol.
lii.,
9
Ritual Uses of Vestments,
"The
seen in the
wore
a canon
mass habit should
monuments. at
tells
it
1
us also that
canonical habit underneath his
his
high mass, but so arranged that it out of sight ; hence
be, as far as possible,
the direction to have his
But
2
At
cowl.'
'
up Norwich
a vestry girdle to tuck
Wells, Hereford,
and
Cathedrals are to be seen figures of canons, the almuce or amess appearing at the neck, although
they are vested in eucharistic habit.
The
duty of
the
minister,
as
as
far
the
vestments of the celebrant are concerned, consists in seeing that the vestments are laid out in their proper order on a table in the vestry, there be no vestry, on
(never on the altar
or,
should
a side-table near the altar
itself)
the vestments for the
;
assistant should be on the right-hand side of those for the celebrant, the
subdeacon on the each
is
be
He
left.
should also see that
properly put on, especially that the alb
drawn through the to
vestments for the deacon and
girdle so as
about a
raised
finger's
ground, and that the chasuble
is
to overhang
it
breadth from straight.
is
and the
He must
be careful that the assistant does not his cope before the priest puts on his
especially
put on chasuble.
During the
that the chasuble
and to
raise the
freedom to the host.
is
After
not disarranged by genuflexions,
chasuble so as to give complete
priest's
the
celebration he has to see
arms
at the elevation
celebration
the
of the
vestments
are
220
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
taken off with similar ceremonies in the reverse order.
On Ember
days, Rogations, in processions, and Sunday or Saint's day mass is said in the chapter house, on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, and Palm Sunday, albs and amices only are to be worn by the ministers.
when
the
The etc.)
dress at the ordinary offices (mattins, lauds,
is
amice,
Horsham the
alb,
stole,
and cope
which the
showing
of
merit"
stole
at
brass at
manner in This com-
exact
the
should be crossed.
bination of vestments was also tions,
a
;
represents a priest so vested, and has
worn
at benedic-
mass for the dead,
absolution after a
and, as just remarked, by the assistant at if
a
priest,
and by the celebrant
of the pre-sanctified. us,
'
is
the
mass mass
cope,' the rubric tells
not strictly a sacerdotal vestment, but
worn by the
The
'The
at
it
is
rulers of the choir and others.'
clergy in choir wear black (choral) copes,
except on principal doubles,* and on the doubles falling
on Sunday, when
of the day are worn.
silk
On
copes of the colour
the vigil of Easter, and
^ Feasts were divided into Doubles, Simples, and Sundays.
Doubles were so-called from the anthems being doubled, said
throughout
breviary
The
office,
principal
at
i.e.,
the beginning and end of the Psalms in the
instead of the
first
words only being
said.
doubles were Christmas, Epiphany, Easter,
Ascension, Whitsunday, Assumption, the Local Anniversary,
and the Dedication of the Church,
'The
Ritual Uses of Vestments,
221
through and on the octave, they wore surplices only, as also on doubles occurring from Easter to
Michaelmas.
and
If a bishop celebrate,
if
it
Maunday
be
Thursday, or Whitsunday, he has seven deacons, seven subdeacons, and
doubles only least
;
three acolytes
On
five.
The
on Good Friday only one.
the choir were those
—on
other
with Rulers, two
feasts
whose duty
it
at
rulers of
was to chant
the office and Kyrie at mass, and to superintend the
On
choristers.
doubles these were four
number, on simples two.
in
Rulers wore silk copes
of the colour of the day over a surplice, and had silver staves as
The Roman
emblems of office. Pontifical lays down
succinct rules
for the vesting of a bishop for the different duties
These
of his position. Confirmation.
— White
are as follows
cope and
stole,
:
amice, rochet, mitra
aurifrigiata.
Ordinations.
—As
for
high mass
day. Consecration of a Bishop.
the
colour according to
:
colour according to the
— The consecrator day
;
each
as for
of the
high mass
two
:
assistant-
bishops in rochet, cope, amice, stole, and mitra simplex. Profession of a
Nun.
— As
for
Coronation of a Sovereign.
according
to
day
;
high mass.
— As
for
high
amice, white stole and cope, mitra simplex. the bishops used to
mass
each of the assistant-bishops
wear
:
colour
in
rochet,
In England
all
full pontificalia.
Laying the Foundation of a Church.
— Rochet, amice, white
stole and cope, mitra simplex, pastoral
staff.
222
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
— The same Church. — The same. Church.
Consecration of a
the mass, then
till
full pontificalia (white).
Reconciliation of a
Maun day
Oil on
Holy
Consecration of the
Thursday.
— Full
(white) pontificalia, mitra pretiosa.
— Rochet, amice, red
Synod held in a Cathedral Church.
j4t a
stole, red cope, mitra pretiosa.
—Alb, amice, purple —Alb, amice, of Corpus
Procession of Palms.
purple cope,
stole,
mitra simplex.
Christi.
Procession
stole, tunic, dal-
matic, white cope; a mitra pretiosa borne behind. In England
and
in
France red was the colour.
Rogation
— Alb,
Days.
amice, purple
stole,
purple cope,
mitra simplex.
In
occasional
surplice
and
stoles are used, first
are
one of
violet,
This
which
baptism,
a
baptisms two is
worn
at the
and the other of white,
substituted for the
is
ofiice.
as
At
worn.
part of the service,
which the
such
services,
stole
first
observance
in the course
has
a
of
symbolical
meaning violet being the colour which typifies and penitence, and white being associated with ideas of purity, the change in the stole is ;
sin
emblematic of the regenerating change which the rite of baptism is supposed to work. A reversible stole, violet is
on one side and white on the other,
sometimes used for this service.
sions and benedictions at the altar
of wax, images,
etc.)
the
cope
In proces-
(/.^.,
blessings
must be worn.
In other benedictions stole and surplice are sufficient.
Ritual Uses of Vestments.
T^he
The after a
223
cope must also be worn at an absolution
mass for the dead
for such a service
their dalmatics,
;
the colour of the cope
black, the ministers lay aside
is
and when the celebrant assumes
the cope he must lay aside his
maniple.
If for
any reason a cope be not obtainable, these rites (benedictions, absolutions, etc.) must be performed in
alb
and crossed
stole only,
without chasuble or
maniple.
Should
be found necessary to celebrate high
it
mass without the the Epistle
is
aid of a
deacon or subdeacon,
ordered to be sung by a lector vested
in a surplice.
We
must now approach an important branch of the varieties in the colour of this complex subject the vestments depending on the character of the
—
day, in other words, the liturgical colours of the
vestments. It
does not appear that the definite assigning of
particular colours to particular days
date than Innocent Ill's time
and even
as far
the church,
we
back
as the
;
is
of older
but before him,
time of the fathers of
find that the early Christians
had
symbolical associations with colours, which have
formed the foundation on which the elaborate structure of later times was built. It is a
matter of
common knowledge
are associations of sentiment practically
indissoluble.
that there
and colour which
Black
are
and sorrowful,
224
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
white (or
bright)
and joyful,
are
synonymous
terms, and similar expressions are universal.
White^ in the typified purity
Lord white.
ten centuries of Christianity,
first
and
are for that reason
As we
represented clothed in
have seen, the
were probably white
;
and Our
Saints, angels,
truth.
vestments
earliest
the newly-baptized
wore
white during the week after baptism, and the dead
were shrouded probably more
latter,
however,
for convenience than for
any sym-
in
white
;
the
bolic reason.
%ed, the colour of flame, was associated with Our Lord is someideas of warm, burning love. times represented in red
when performing works
of mercy. Green^ the colour of plants, was regarded as typifying
life,
and sacred or beatified persons are
sometimes depicted
as clothed
reference to their everlasting Violet^
which
is
and black, was love and
life.
colour in
this
Lastly,
formed by a mixture of red symbolize the union of
said to
pain in
in
'
repentance.'
It
also
sorrow, without any reference to sin as
thus the Mater Dolorosa
is
its
typifies
cause
;
occasionally represented
in a violet robe.*
Further than
this
have said too much. *
we cannot It is
These explanations of colours
Cheetham's
*
go, and perhaps
we
quite possible that these are taken from Smith and
Dictionary of Christian Antiquities.'
225
The Ritual Uses of Vestments. theories
may have been put forward
phenomena which depended painters.
and whim of the
to account for
entirely on the taste It is
well
known
that
Christianity ideas of colour in the early ages of and yellow and green, dark blue and
were vague,
were black, light blue and violet,
all
regarded as
Previous to the tenth quite true that coloured vestments
being the same colour. century,
it
are to be
is
seen in mosaics
and fresco-paintings
;
colours are such as to but the combinations of were simply adopted by leave no doubt that they aids to distinguishing the painter as convenient the surrounding backthe various vestments from ground and from each other.
Coming now
to Innocent III,
we
find that he
colours, white, red, black prescribes four liturgical principal or primary and green. These were the secondary colours ; but there are others, liturgical
modifications in tmt of the to these, which were of Thus, properly, red is the colour primaries. virgins ; but there is martyrs, white the colour of the saffron, for confessors, and a secondary colour, are considered intersecondaries, rose and lily, changeable with red and white.
the practices throughand we will not attempt out the Western Church, outline of the general to give more than a brief those who desire fuller informa-
Hopelessly
principles
at variance are
For
tion reference
is
made
to a paper
by Dr Wickham 15
226
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
Legg
the St Paul's less
volume of the Transactions of Ecclesiological Society, in which no
in the first
than sixty-three different
'
uses
'
are analyzed
and tabulated, or compared. The rules to which we have just referred
are
almost the only regulations respecting which uni-
form use is
For obvious
prevails.
appropriated to feasts of St
other virgin saints office
of the dead
martyrs.
Usually
As
is
white
Mary and
of the
appropriated to the
and red to the
;
white
and Easter, and red Apostles.
black
;
reasons,
for
is
feasts
used for
of
Christmas
Whitsuntide and Feasts of
a general rule, however, the
same
sentimental associations are to be seen with colours in the
middle ages as
earlier times its
:
violet
may
possibly be traced in
being essentially penitential in
character, red being indicative of
fire,
blood or
love, white of purity and joy, black of mourning, Tind green
of
Hence
violet
is
Advent and Lent, red for apostles and evangelists, and
in
life.
for
Passion-tide and feasts
Easter
;
the usual colour
feasts
of martyrs,
some uses
for
white for Christmas,
of virgins, Easter, and sometimes Michael-
mas and All
Saints
;
black for
Good
Friday and
of the dead green from the Octave of Epiphany to Candlemas, and from Trinity to
offices
Advent.
;
The
very arbitrary
;
use of the last colour it
is,
however,
only occurs at one or two seasons
The Ritual Uses of Vestments. in
227
each diocese, and these are very
the year in
diverse.
The
following
of
Roman sequence of colours may be taken as an example
the
is
and
for the year,
it
all:
Advent
Christmas Eve
to
Christmas Eve,
Day
Christmas St Stephen St
if a
rose.
red.
:
Holy Innocents Circumcision
Epiphany
:
white.
:
John the Evangelist violet
:
white.
:
;
red
if a
Sunday.
white.
:
white.
:
Candlemas
black or violet.
:
Sunday
violet for the procession of candles before
:
mass, then white.
Maunday Thursday
Septuagesima to
Good Friday Easter
:
:
black.
white.
Ascension
white.
:
Rogation Days Pentecost
violet.
:
red.
:
Trinity Sunday
Corpus Christ!
:
white. white.
:
Trinity to Advent
:
Feasts of the Virgin
green.
Mary
John Baptist white. white. St Michael St
:
:
white.
All Saints
:
Martyrs
:
red.
Apostles
:
red.
Evangelists
Confessors
:
:
red.
white.
:
white.
:
violet.
228
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
Virgins
white.
:
Transfiguration
Holy Cross
:
Confirmation
white.
:
Dedication of
a
Church: white.
Harvest Festivals
Requiem
One
or
:
white.
red.
:
:
white.
black.
two miscellaneous points may be worth
a passing notice before
we
bring our account of
the vestments of the Western Church to a close.
During Lent images
in
velum
quadrigesimale.
York,
for instance,
(Anno '
pro
was the practice to cover up the the church with a curtain called the it
1
518,
1
5 19)
In
the
we read
the
Fabric
Rolls
of
following entry
:
Pro coloribus ad pingendum caminos dc novo factos et c fauthoms cordarum pro suspensione pannorum quadri-
gesimalium ante novum crucifixum
ivs.
Pro pictione unius panni pendentis coram novo crucifixo in tempore quadrigesimali, et pro les curtayn ringes et pro les *
laic ac
A
pro suicione alterius panni
xiis.'
point respecting the ring
is worth mention. Doctors of Divinity and bishops only may wear a
ring in the Western Church, and the former
take
it
off
Besides the Episcopal there
made:
is
must
when celebrating mass.
a third kind, to
the Imperial
and Diaconal dalmatic^ which allusion must be
dalmatic, which from time
immemorial has been placed on the sovereigns of Europe at their coronation.
:
Ritual Uses of Vestments,
T^he
The
Rome
Peter's at *
It
is
laid
upon
different subjects
hibiting
Dalmatic
Imperial
thus described
is
deep blue
who
different actions
body of our Lord.
many
The whole
a
rainbow
It
by
tears of gold,
numerous
centre,
The
field
display
of the
and
crosses of gold a
running
floriated
emerald green,
Crosses of silver cantonned
and of gold cantonned with
alternately, are inserted in
Other
the
tigers of gold, are of
turquoise blue, and flame colour.
rule,
glorifica-
has also a representation of paradise, wherein
the flowers, carried
with
in
gracefulness of design.
is
pattern.
— the
has been carefully
and the
powdered with flowers and having the bottom enriched with
vestment silver,
on
silk,
having four in front, ex-
surrounding our Redeemer,
fifty-four)
as
enthroned
sits
simplicity and
silk,
on the shoulders behind and
wrought with gold tambour and figures (as
the treasury of St
in
a foundation of
—although taken from
tion of the
229
tears of silver
the flowing foliage at the edge.
same
crosses within circles are also placed after the
when of gold
in medallions of silver,
and when of
silver
in the reverse order. *
This vestment
is
been conjectured that
assigned to the 12th century.
It
has
was formerly used by the
this dalmatic
German emperors when they were consecrated and crowned, and when they assisted the pope at the ofiice of mass. On such occasions the emperor discharged the functions of sub-
deacon or deacon, and, clothed with Epistle and Gospel
;
a dalmatic,
in illustration of this
chanted the
custom
it
may
be
remarked that several of the German Emperors took part in the service, even so late as Charles V, who sung the Gospel at Boulogne as
it
in 1529.
continues
habit,
and
kingdoms
it
at
The
dalmatic was, in
fact, in
those times,
the present day, both a regal and ecclesiastical
has constantly been the custom of European
for the sovereigns to
wear
* Rev. C. H. Hartshorne
it
at their
coronation.'*
in Arch. Journal.
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
230
But the Ecclesiastical nature of the regal costume of the middle ages does not end with the dalmatic. Thus, the
effigy
of Richard
I.
at
Fontevraud wears
a cope-like mantle, a dalmatic, and a white subtunic,
answering to
the
distinctive
costumes of
bishop or priest, deacon and sub-deacon respectively.
When
body of Edward I was exhumed at in 1774, he was found to wear among other garments a dalmatic and a stole^ the
Westminster
The
crossed on the breast in the priestly manner.
body of John,
in
Worcester, was found
in
1797 to
be habited in costume similar to that represented
on
his effigy,
with the addition of a monk's cowl,
no doubt adopted
in order to safeguard his prospects
of future happiness, as death
in the
monastic habit
was regarded as ensuring a passport to heaven.
The
vestments of the Eastern Church are
simpler, and the rites connected with
much
them have
nothing like the complexity associated with those
of the Western
They have but two
Church.
colours, for instance
—
violet for fast-days (including
Lent),* and white for the rest of the year ridicule the elaboration to
which
liturgical colours
have been brought in the Western Church. fact
might be indicated,
if
— and This
any disproof of the
existence of a primitive system of liturgical colours
were needed. * Violet or purple (noi\6.pia are worn throughout Lent, except on Annunciation Day, Palm Sunday, and Easter Eve.
231
Ritual Uses of Vestments.
T^he
following are the rubrical directions and
The
prayers used at vesting for the Eucharistic servict
Greek Church
in the
:
the procession up the
Being then come within the altar [after
and deacon] make
church^ they [the priest
and
holy table,
and
the holy gospel
kiss
three bows before the
the holy table
:
then each^
taking his (rroL\dpiov in his hand, makes three bows and s ait h softly to himself:
O
God, purify me,
a sinner,
The Deacon comes dypdptov in his saith
right
to
and have mercy upon me.
the priest, holds his ajoiyo-piov and
hand,
and bowing down
his
head
to
him,
:
Bless,
The
sir,
the a-roixd.piov
and the
Blessed be our
priest.
even unto ages of
God
his (noi\a.piov, saying
:
He
:
He
bridegroom hath
as a
me
hand, he saith
Thy
me
with the garment of put a crown on my head
like a bride.
Then, kiising the cjpdptov, he puts
Then he puts
hath put on
me
the robe of salvation, and clothed
and decked
for ever,
of the altar ana puts on
side
soul shall rejoice in the Lord, for
gladness
now and
ages.
The deacon then goes apart on one
My
(LpdpLov.
always,
on his kTTip.
:
it
upon
his
left
putting on that on
shoulder. his
right
:
O Lord, is glorified in strength ; Thy Lord, hath destroyed the enemies, and in the
right hand,
right hand,
O
greatness of
Thy
glory hast
Thou
Then, putting the other on his
Thy
left
put
down
hand
the adversaries.
:
me and fashioned me. O may learn Thy commandments.
hands have made
understanding that
I
give
me
[He
then prepares the sacred vessels.]
The
priest puts on his sacred vestments in the following manner.
First, taking up his o-rotxa/otoi/ in his left hand,
bows
towards the east,
he signs
it zvith the
and making three
sign of the cross, saying:
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
232
God
Blessed be our
And
then he puts
always, etc.
My
on, saying.
it
soul shall rejoice, etc., as
the deacon said above.
Next
he takes up the CTrcTpaxyj^i-ov, and, blessing
God who poureth
Blessed be
it,
he saith
out His grace on His
:
priests,
ointment upon the head that ran down unto
like the precious
the beard, even unto Aaron's beard, and went
down
to the
skirts of his clothing.
He
then takes the ^wvr;,
God who
Blessed be
hath put feet,
me
hath girded
in the right
and hath
He
and girding himself therewith,
set
me
way, making
me up on
saith
:
with strength, and
my
feet like harts'
high.
next puts on his eVt/xai^iKta, saying as zvas said above by
the deacon.
After which he takes up his k-Kiyov6.riov, if he be of
such dignity as
to
wear
and
one,
and
blessing it
kissing
Gird thee with thy sword upon thy thigh,
O
mighty, according to thy worship and renown.
it,
saith
:
thou most
Good
luck
have thou with thine honour, ride on because of the word of truth, of meekness,
and righteousness, and thy
shall teach thee terrible things
even unto ages of
ages.
and
let
priests,
O
always,
and
and
blesses
thy saints sing with joyfulness
kisses
it,
saying
:
:
always,
now and
for
Amen."^
the vestments are put off after the
munion, the
hand
for ever,
Lord, be clothed with righteousness,
ever, even unto ages of ages.
When
right
now and
Amen.
71;en he takes his
Let thy
:
Nunc
priest says
com-
Dimittis, rpiaayiov,
and Paler Nosier. It
good to be
does not appear that any complex rules hold
Greek Church respecting the vestments worn on certain days in the Church's year.
in the
* Translation from King's
Greek Church
in Russia.'
*
Rites and Ceremonies of the
The Ritual Uses of Vestments.
The
233
following synopsis of the vestment uses in
show most
the ordination service will
clearly the
nature and distribution of Ecclesiastical vestments in the
Eastern Church.
Ordination of a Reader
on by the bishop, which the sub-deacons
:
is
A
short (^awokiov put
presently removed by
the aroiyapiov
;
then blessed and
is
put on by the bishop. Ordination
Sub-deacon
of a
comes dressed
The
:
in the aroiy^apiov
hand the wpdpiov to the bishop, who the cross the
;
the
bishop's
new sub-deacon
candidate
the subdeacons
;
signs
it
kisses the cross
hand, and girds himself with
on and the
(jjpapiov.
Ordination of a Deacon before the altar
The
:
candidate kneels
the bishop, at the beginning of
;
the service, puts the end of the
him.
o)/uo(popiov
upon
After the service the bishop takes the topapiov
and puts
it
on the new deacon's
saying aSioc, which
is
left
shoulder,
repeated thrice by the choir
;
then the bishop gives him the kmiiaviKia, and a^ioc is
repeated as before.
from the table)
is
The
fan (for blowing
presented after
this,
flies
with the
same words. Ordination of a Priest
:
At
commencement
the
the candidate kneels at the altar, and the bishop
puts the (Jpdpiov
(oiuo(i>opLov
is
on
At
his head.
taken from him, and the
received by the bishop,
who
kisses
the end the
kirirpayjikiov is it
;
the newly-
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
234
ordained priest kisses the vestment and the bishop's
hand
;
the bishop puts
a&oc, which
deacon. in
is
The
on the
it
priest,
saying
repeated as at the ordination of a
and
t^vr)
then conferred
<^aivo\iov is
a similar manner.
Ordination of a Bishop
The new
:
bishop comes
At
to the service in all his sacred vestments.
end the
when
is
widO(j>6piov
put upon the
elect,
the
except
the consecration takes place in the see of the
bishop, in which case
the
ceremonial
is
baptism are the
(paivoXiov
are three orders
monasteries.
and the other
The same
first.
repeated as at the other ordinations.
The vestments worn There
da/c/cot
garments are given
episcopal
The
at the administration
and
of
e-mfxaviKia.
of devotees
probationers
in the
wear
a
Greek black
cassock or vest called shaesa^ and a hood (Russian
kamelauch^ yafxaXavyri).
The
proficients wear,
addition, an upper cloak [fxdvlvaq). are
distinguished
by
their
hood or
in
The
perfect
vail,
which
perpetually conceals their faces from sight.
APPENDIX
I.
ORDERS. COSTUMES OF THE RELIGIOUS not profess to furnish following appendix does the extensive subject of niore than an outline details, as well as further for with which it deals; the orders of members of each of
THE
for illustrations
reference must be
A
made
to the great
work of Bonann>,
cited
us rather Bonanni names the different ha but followed, has been
p ndix III. nomenclature in the main his ; system. uniform brought to a more
loosely
Monks. The
dress of
monks
r.Hs, turnc o. usually consists of the
narrow,
a .cpuhr, roughly speakmg, porttons recback and the front chasuble like dress, with one or more open throughout and of uniform width
closed
gown;
the
;
;:
gowns it""'"-
-
'"fP")-'
^"^
*\-^«7- "'1°"^, ^^^--^"^^
capable of bemg astened at the back and be taken 'Discalced- is not always to head. simply than more Jnificance, or as signifying orders individual by worn fferent vestments are from their self-evident be will the nature of these both vestis and pallium,
m
D
,.
little
ALEXiANS.-Black below the knee caputium. :
us fu lies san or
ho
al
ses
,
names. reaching a
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
236
—Dark-coloured gown with cappa and Antonius, St {Armenia). — Ample black and caputium. mantellum, Antonius, St {Canons — Black gown signed with Ambrose, St.
2.
Discalced.
scapular.
tunic, girded,
3.
cuculla,
4.
a
of).
blue
T
T.
Others,
;
girded white collar, black mantle, also signed with
dress, but
who
tawny
are devoted to
manual
The T
in colour.
is
labour,
wear
a similar
a representation of a
crutch, the symbol of sustaining and power. 5.
Antonius, St {Egypt).
round caputium. 6.
— Black — Long
tunic and scapular, with
Discalced.
Antonius, St {Syria).
black
round caputium, black leather girdle
;
gown with
over
all,
short
long black
mantle, 7.
Apostoli.
— Tawny tunic with girdle of Cappa, and
with caputium attached.
leather, scapular
winter short and
in
narrow mantellum. 8.
St {Canons
Aubert,
cassock, and cap or biretta 9.
Augustine, St.
hood.
regular
— Black
White may be worn
10. Avellanans.
— White
Cambrai).
of;
—Violet
white surplice.
:
tunic girded, black cape
and
indoors. tunic, scapular, azure
pallium,
square biretta in place of mantellum. 11.
— Tunic and caputium {Germany). — Tunic, long
St {Armenia).
Basil,
scapular black.
St
12. Basil,
scapular,
broad cappa, caputium on shoulder, and outline resembling the 13.
Basil,
white,
*
Tarn
St {Greece).
o'
Shanter
a biretta '
— Black woollen
long
on head in
cap.
tunic, over
which
another with sleeves about three palms wide, open in front,
with woollen
fringes or
loops of another (but
still
which can be fastened with small buttons. always covered with a cap, which conceals the ears. colour,
tium with
vittae or
dark)
Head Capu-
streamers attached, which hang over the
shoulders, and are said to typify the cross.
Costumes of the Religious Orders. Basil,
14.
Greek
St
—
Till 1443 resembling the Spain). After that date, tunic, leather girdle,
{Italy or
(No.
dress
13).
—
scapular, cuculla, caputium^ Basil,
15.
237
St {Russia).
black.
all
— Like
Greece (No.
with the
13),
addition of a small cuculla.
Benedict, St {St Justina of Padua).
16.
which
tunic to
a
caputium
is
— Black
Scapular
sewn.
;
woollen
cuculla from
shoulder to feet with very wide sleeves.
Benedict, St {Clugniacs).
17.
— Black
cappa clausa with
rude sleeves or hood.
Benedict, St {India).
18.
— Black
tunic
somewhat
short,
white scapular, mantle, and caputium.
Bethlehemites.
19.
girdle
— Black
cappa, on left side of
;
sentation of the
manger
at
woollen
which
tunic
a pannula
Bethlehem.
with leather
with
a
repre-
Black
Discalced.
cap on head. 20. BiRGiTTA,
caputium having
a
St.
— Gray
tunic and cuculla, to
— White, black caputium and Camaldulenses {Hermits). — White woollen
scapular.
round
scapular
and
service.
Black shoes.
23.
Camaldulenses
and the scapular
wide
a
white roundle or plate at the centre.
21. Caelestines. 22.
which
sewn, gray mantellum, signed with red cross,
is
sleeves,
is
;
(M^///^j).
;
(also
—As Benedictines, but
girded round the loins.
tunic,
white)
in
white,
Tunic with very
caputium, etc.
24. Capuchins.
coarse rope
caputium
cuculla
— Rough black
hood and cape.
woollen tunic girded with
Discalced.
—
Tunic, girdle, scapular, caputium, 25. Carmelites. brown cappa or mantle white. Hat on head black, except in Mantua, where it is white. Cappa shorter than 26. Carmelites a Monte Sacro. that of the other Carmelites, and no cap on head at any ;
—
time.
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
238
27. Carthusians.
white gown
— Black
which
over
woollen pallium,
passed over the head, and scapular with side
loops.
Cistercians.
28.
Cistercian colour interpretation black
To
— Benedict
;
of this decree
were included
remedy
black
XII decreed brown
but there was an uncertainty
in the
*
brown,' wore those colours.
IV
decreed black or white
caputium and scapular girded round {Fogliantino).
— Like
30. Cistercians [La Trappe). sleeves, girded ; caputium.
—White
32.
Choors vestis,
in
— Lion-coloured
Italy.
cuculla with ample
with
tunic,
cuculla and caputium.
woollen
:
black
the Benedictines
Black wooden sandals worn in
Chariton, St.
;
Formerly discalced everywhere, now
shape, white in colour.
only in France.
loins
In choir white.
cuculla added out of doors.
31.
some, alleging that gray or
;
term
this confusion, Sixtus
29. Cistercians
the
as
as to the
{Canons
regular
Almuce, worn over the arms
Bordeaux).
of;
white linen scapular
linen
;
— White
cotta in choir.
summer, round
in
black
the neck in
winter. 33.
CoLORiTi {Calabria).
— Long
tunic, with
round capu-
tium and mantellum from rough black natural wool girdle.
34.
CoLUMBA, St {Avellana).
— White
caputium, over which a scapular
;
a
35. Cross,
St {Canons
and almuce
;
woollen tunic or
regular of;
36. Crucifers {Italy).
white
Crucifers {Belgium). ;
cross.
— Cassock,
— Blue tunic (formerly ash-coloured,
borne in the hand. 37.
Coimbra).
the ordinary canonical dress.
or uncertain), scapular, and hood.
caputium
woollen
narrow pallium added
out of doors.
surplice,
;
Silver cross constantly
— White
tunic,
scapular,
and
black mozetta, signed in front with a red and
Costumes of the 38. Crucifers [Lusitania).
A
mozetta and hood.
—Blue
tunic, over
239
which gown,
pallium added out of doors.
39. Crucifers (Syria). 4.0.
'Religious Orders,
— Black.
—
St (Canons regular of; Rheims). Long over which (in winter) a cappa clausa without arm-
DiONYSius,
surplice,
Almuce worn over arm.
Biretta.
holes.
—
Tunic, scapular, and broad round 41. Dominic, St. Black cappa, shorter than the wool. white of caputium tunic,
added out of doors.
42. FoNTis
Ebraldi
{Fontevraud).
— Black
tunic
girded,
scapular, caputium.
43. Francis, St.
—Ash-coloured
divided by three knots
;
44. Francis, St (de
with cord
;
cape, hood
tunic girded with a cord
round caputium and mozetta. Woollen tunic girded observantia).
—
;
colour formed by mixture of two
parts of black wool to one of white.
Discalced, in
or leathern sandals. 45.
wooden
—
Rough and Franciscans {of St Peter of Alcantara). Feet tunic girded with cord ; cape and hood.
patched
entirely unprotected.
—Woollen
46. Francis de Paul, St (Fratres minimi).
tunic,
dark tawny colour with round caputium, whose ends hang
below the free
loins before
end of which
and behind, both girded by knotted with
five
Pallium reaching a
three knots only).
worn
is
in winter both indoors
and
with sandals of various materials
little
below the knees,
Formerly discalced,
out. ;
a rope, the
knots (novices knot
afterwards, however, this
practice was dispensed with.
—
White vestis and 47. Genovefa, St (Canons regular of). In winter a rochet, black biretta, fur almuce over left arm. long black pallium
is
added
to the vestis
and rochet, and
black caputium or hood.
George in Alga, St (Canons over which a blue gown. 48.
49. Gilbert,
St (Canons regular
regular of).
of).
— Black
a
—Cassock,
cassock and
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
240 hood,
and surplice lined with lamb's wool.
added
at service.
Gramontans.
50.
formed
'
dress
—Any
The
very rough.
dress,
*
re-
rough w^hite linen tunic, over which
a
is
Linen cappa
another, thinner, of black
scapular and caputium.
;
— Tawny
tunic, black pallium.
51.
Hermits {Egypt).
52.
HippoLYTus, St {Brothers of Mercy
of).
— Brownish
tunic, scapular, hood. 53.
HuMiLiATi.
—White
tunic, scapular, mantle, cape, and
cap. 54. James, vestis
St {Canons regular of; Spada).
and rochet.
—White woollen
—
White woollen tunic, St {Hermits of). all caputium, cappa open in front
55. Jerome,
scapular with round
:
black wool.
—
St {Hermits of; foundation of Lupo Olmedo). White tunic girt with black leather girdle round loins; small round caputium and tawny cuculla. Black biretta worn at 56. Jerome,
home.
—
57. Jerome,
Tawny
St {Hermits of ; foundation of Peter Gambacortd). tawny crimped
tunic girded with leather girdle,
cappa, round and narrow caputium, square black biretta. 58.
St
Jerome,
{Fiesole).
crimped cappa open
wooden
in
sandals, afterwards
59. Jesuati. (after 1367).
—White A
as the
60. JoHANNis
scapular
woollen
Leather
girdle.
vestis
with
Discalced
;
abandoned.
tunic, square caputium, gray cappa
white appendage, like a sleeve, worn instead
of caputium, changed by
same colour
— Tawny
front.
mantle.
Dei,
reaching
to
St.
Urban VIII
— Dark
knees
-,*
for a
caputium of the
ash -coloured tunic with
round, pointless
caputium.
Black cap added out of doors.
* So Bonanni's text
;
it
reaches to
x.h.Q
feet in his plate.
Costumes of the Religious Orders, 61. John, St {Canons regular of; Chartres). and rochet ; almuce over left shoulder. 62. John, St [Hermits
of,
de Poenitentia),
heavy wooden
cross
vestis
— Rough woollen
suspended in front from neck.
John Baptist, St {Canons brown vestis, scapular, cappa
63.
with a black 64.
—White
and cappa with hood, feet entirely unprotected,
cloth, tunic
or
241
regular of; England^. clausa,
and mantle,
— Black
all
signed
cross.
—
Klosterneuburg {Canons regular of; Austria). White and black cappa, for which latter an almuce is sub-
surplice
stituted on festival days. 65.
LiRiNENSEs {Lerina Island, Tuscany).
girded with
caputium
:
6^. Lo,
scarf, all
black.
St {Canons regular
violet mozetta or cape,
and
;
Mark, St
—Violet
{Canons regular
vestis, rochet, pallium, for
in choir
and
a
— Violet
cappa,
white cassock
;
tunic, black scapular,
cap on head covering hair, forehead, temples,
ears.
68.
left
Rouen).
of;
and hood in winter
and rochet. 67. Macharius, St {Egypt). small cuculla
— Tunic and mantle
over this sleeved cappa aperta with small
which
of;
Mantua).
latter a
white biretta added.
—White woollen
mozetta
is
substituted
Sheepskin almuce on
arm.
69.
Martin, St
{Esparnai
Vestis talaris of white, above ligium,
which
is
a
species
\_Aspreniacum,
which
Campanid\).
—
a sarrocium or scor-
of rochet, described
by Mau-
burnus.*
*
Quidam enim ap, Bonanni, vol. iv. No. xvii integrum cum manicis integris habent, quidam autem deferunt hanc lineam vestem in formam longi et lati scapularis sine manicis in lateribus apertam quidam circa tibia ad latitudinem palmae Carthusiensium more consutam, alii scapulare latum cum rugis habent aliis est forma parvi scapularis ctbrevis cum rugis et plicis e collo pendentis quod Scorligium Cit.
:
subtile
16
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
242 70.
St
Mary,
Captivorum).
Mercede Redemptionis
{de
A
White tunic, scapula, short caputium, and cappa.
—
small
shield bearing party per fess in chief gules a cross pattee argevt of the in base three pallets (the base charge is the arms
Kingdom of Arragon), is worn in front. 71. Mary, St {de Mercede Redemptionis Captivorum^ dress).
— In
the caputium
this
discalced.
72.
Mary, Sr
and hood 73.
:
all
{Servants of).
prolonged and
— Coarse
Maurice, St {Canons regular
Monte Luca
optional
;
all
tawny
Monte
— Cassock,
— Tunic,
and hood and cap or
Some
colour.
76.
Senario {Hermits
Monte Vergine and cucuUa
stituted for cuculla.
;
{in
the latter
hat,
of).
— Black
Avellina
;
?nonks
with
tunic, scapular,
of).
— Tunic,
out of doors pallium and cap sub-
All white.
—White with wide crispatum on shoulder. — White woollen and Pachomius, signed with Pamplona {Canons — Cassock, ash-coloured mozetta. — White woollen Paul, St 77. Olivetans.
sleeves,
vestis
tunic
St.
78.
rochet,
short chasuble-
pallium extending below knees, caputium.
scapular,
cappa
are discalced, others
shoes or sandals. 75.
of).
feet
biretta.
{Hermits of).
like scapular, mantle
another
the
tunic, scapular,
black.
purple cape or mozetta, 74.
is
caputium
cuculla, the
a violet cross.
latter
regular of).
79.
alb, sleeveless
rochet,
{Hermits).
80.
short,
vestis,
with short mantellum over,
and
short
rather
caputium
;
discalced. 81. Paul,
St {Monks).
—White
tunic sleeved, caputium.
dicunt quibusdam ex latere linea hasta linea.
aliis
area collum pecia
Costumes of the Religious Orders. and
round shoulders.
collar
Out of
243
doors, black cap
and
cloak (white in Hungary). 82. Peter,
St {Canons regular
gray cassock and 1
52
rochet, and
of;
Monte Corbulo).
—At
almuce or caputium
first
after
;
black cassock, white-sleeved rochet, and black cloak.
1
Poland (Canons regular ^).— White tunic and linen
83.
reaching
surplice
to
about
the
knees, fur
almuce about
shoulders, dark-coloured skull-cap of wool edged with fur.
Portugal {Canons regular
84.
tunic,
— White
rochet
and
in
biretta,
—
White tunic and scapular, sewn white sleeveless cappa without girdle, white almuce, white shoes. (The white is all natural^ not
Premonstratensians.
85.
up
of).
tawny almuce, and pallium. front,
dyed.)
Rouen {Canons
86.
—White
regular of the Priory of the
RuFus, St {Canons regular of;
87.
France).
buttoned up in front, white girdle, black Sabba, St.
88.
Two
Lovers).
tunic or alb and rochet, almuce.
— Tawny tunic
— White cassock
biretta.
girded, with black scapular.
Discalced.
and
White of; Laterans). Out of doors black pallium
biretta.
90.
with
Saviour, St {Canons regular of; Lorraine).
little
side, five
linen rochet hanging
down from
full
— Black tunic
the neck to the left
inches broad, like a girdle, over which in choir a cotta,
and gray almuce carried on the arm a
—
St {Canons regular
89. Saviour,
buttoned cassock, linen rochet.
sleeveless
in
summer
;
in
winter
rochet with cappa reaching to the ankles
of black linen, whose front edges are decorated with red cloth about a foot wide.
Caputium, whose front edge sur-
rounds the face like an almuce, with fur about two inches wide. 91. Saviour,
White woollen
St {Canons regular of; Syha Lacus
Selva).
—
tunic, rochet and scapular, black cappa.
92. Sepulchre,
the Holy {Canons
regular of).
— White
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
244
rochet, black cappa
cappa 93.
Greek cross cantoned by
a
Holy
Sepulchre, the
Poland, Russia).
telletum
—
a
At the
and caputium.
— Black
vestis
waistcoat or
—on
the
left
Bohemia^
{Canons regular of;
rochet-like
side
of the
side
and rochet, over which vestment,
but rather long, open in front, and reaching the knees
left
crosslets in red.
man-
a
sleeveless,
above
to a little
of which a double-transomed
cross.
94. Sylvester, St. blue. 95.
—Tunic, caputium,
scapular, cuculla of
worn on sacred occasions. Trinitatis, SS {Redemptionis Captivorum). Biretta
— White
tunic, scapular, and cappa, with red and blue cross flory on the scapular and left side of the cappa. 96. Trinitatis, SS {Redemptionis Captivorum; Spain).
—
Cappa brown, otherwise as above described. By others in Spain a tawny cappa is worn, and the feet are discalced. Round black caputium added. 97. Trinitatis, SS {Redemptionis Captivorum ; France).
—
All
white,
the cross plain
;
feet discalced
white. 98.
UsETz {Canons regular
of).
caputium
;
also
—White buttoned tunic and
surplice, extinguisher-shaped, like the ancient chasuble.
99.
Valle
de
Choux
Autun, Canons regular of).
{Burgundy,
—White,
ietween
with black girdle. 100.
Valle Ronceaux {Canons
Dijon
regular of).
— Black,
white scapular, very small, and resembling archiepiscopal
Black cappa added in service. 1
01.
Valle
di
Scholari
woollen tunic and scapular
;
{Canons
regular
Valley of Jehoshaphat {Canons (;?-f^r
pall.
—White
— Full — regular
regular of).
red cuculla and caputium. 103. Vallis Viridis
of).
with
black cappa lined with lamb's
wool, biretta. 102.
and
black scapular, girded
Brussels; Canons
Black tunic and cassock, white rochet, black caputium.
of).
' ;
Costumes of the Religious Orders, 104. Vallumbrosans.
—
245
Identical with the Sylvestrines, but
grayish-black instead of blue. 105. Victor, of; Paris).
Without the Walls
St,
— White
(Canons regular
tunic and wide-sleeved surplice, almuce,
biretta.
106.
ViNDESHEiM (Canons regular
of).
—White
tunic and
rochet, biretta, fur almuce added on shoulders in winter.
William, St (Hermits
107.
At
tected.
white,
first
of).
— Tunic,
over
which
Scapular, feet entirely unpro-
another sleeveless, girded. but
black
after
union
with
the
Augustinians.
Nuns.
The
dress o^ nuns, as a general rule, consists of a vestis
(gown or
tunic), girt at the waist,
add
various orders the following cloth
is
Asa
list.
and
a scapular.
pallia, mantella^ etc., as will
To
these
appear from
general rule, a white^r^^Tz/Wor breast-
fastened over the head and round the throat and breast
over this two loose vela or cloths are placed on the head, the
The
inner white, the outer black.
feet,
even of *discalced
nuns, are protected at least by wooden, bark, or leathern sandals 1.
;
very rarely are the feet entirely unprotected.
AcEMETAE
VigHants).
(or
— Uncertain;
according
to
some authorities, green vestis, signed with a red cross, above which a mantellum or cape. Black velum on head. 2. Agnes, St (Dordrecht), White vestis and scapular, black velum on head, ruff round neck.
—
3.
4.
— White, velum on —White and of ring on with any Antonius, St — No Ambrose, St.
on breast, 5.
able to monastic
head.
black
Angelica, St (Milan). finger,
(Syria).
vestis
cross in place
definite rule,
scapular, cross a jewel.
dress suit-
life.
—
Black; Gregory IX 6. AvGVSTi'tiE^^T (Solitaries of 1256). gave licence to wear white, with black scapular and velum on head.
246
Ecclesiastical Vestments. Augustine, St
7.
{ancient habit).
— Black
tunic,
white linen
rochet,
on head a cloth, ornamented with semee
crosses,
reaching
down
Augustine, St (discalced ; Spain).
8.
of red
the back like a cloak or cope.
— Similar
to the corre-
sponding monks, but with the usual vela on the head. 9.
Augustine, St
which
a black vestis
—White
(discalced ; Lusitania).
added on
is
feast days)
leather girdle, white scapular, black
vestis (to
girded with black
mantellum
on the head
;
a rough white linen cloth hanging before the face to the eyes,
On
but behind to the waist.
about
Augustine, St {Penitents
10.
reaching to knees black
this
white cloth another, black,
palms in breadth.
five
of).
— Black
scapular white
;
vestis
and cappa,
face covered with
;
a
veil.
—White black — Natural (undyed)
11.
Augustine, St {Venice).
12.
Basil,
black sleeves
St {Eastern).
mafors
(narrow
scapular-like
face.
black dress;
pallium)
covering the arms and hands
on
veil
;
;
gloves
or
far as the fingers
as
;
black velum covering the whole head. 13.
Basil,
St {Western).
—As
that date, black vestis, scapular to
knees
;
black gremial or breast-cloth.
ample sleeves added for church 14.
in the East
Begga,
St {Antwerp).
from head downwards,
till
After
1560.
and velum reaching from head
A
cassock
with
services.
— Black
a cap (biretta),
vestis,
black
pallium
resembling in outline
an inverted saucer, on head white velum round head and across breast. 15.
Benedict, St.
—As monks, but with velum
in place of
caputium. 16.
Benedict, St {de Monte Cahario).
scapular, with black 17. BiRGiTTA, St.
—
sleeves reaching to tip of
the head a
*
—
White tunic and velum on head. Discalced. White camisia, gray tunic, cuculla with
garland
'
middle
finger,
gray mantellum.
or 'wreath* concealing the
and cheeks, and secured
at
On
forehead
the back of the head by a pin
Costumes of the 'Religious Orders.
On
this
is
placed a black velum fastened by three pins, one on
Above
the forehead and one over each ear.
white cloth consisting of a
from forehead by
of
this
is
a
corona of
head
cross passing over the
ear, the ends joined
At each of the arms with each other and with the
round the temples.
a circle that passes
is
Greek
back and from ear to
to
intersections of the cross circle
247
fastened a small piece {gutta) of red cloth
five doubtless typical
— the
total
of the Five Wounds.
velum on girded —White with red Calatiavans. — White; white scapular on head. white and black Camaldulenses. —White scapular confined with white on head. —White Canonesses regular {Belgium, Caesarius, St.
18.
head.
vestis,
;
black
signed
19.
vela
cross flory, usual 20.
;
girdle
;
usual vela
Lorraine, ^ic).
21.
tunic girt at waist, mantle over
rochet
worn
is
in
;
black velum on head
;
a
some houses.
22. Canonesses regular [Rouen).
— Originally white
;
now
black tunic, black mantellum lined and edged with white
mouse-fur
;
black and white vela disposed
23. Canonesses (Mons).
— Black
black velum on head reaching
vestis
as usual
on head.
with white sleeves
down back
half-way
;
pallium
;
or mantle on shoulder hanging to ground, black lined with
In church service the dress consists of white linen
white.
surplice or cassock reaching to feet, braided with a cord
upon
it
arranged in ornamental knots and
head-dress,
from the point of which hangs
streamer.
Pallium or mantle of black
fur,
white with black
24. Capuchins.
Carmelites
a long
sewn
peaked
;
pendant
lined with mouse-
spots.
— Rough
woollen
tellum, white gremial cloth, black 25.
silk,
scrolls
(ancient).
vestis,
and white
— Tawny —
scapular,
tunic,
short
pallium or mantle, white velum encircling head. Tawny tunic and 26. Carmelites (modern).
white pallium reaching to
feet,
man-
vela on head.
usual vela on head.
white
scapular,
;
248
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
27. Carmelites (^France).
— Brown
habit, white
mantellum
lined with fur, white gremial cloth covering head and breast,
black velum above
this.
28. Carmelites
(discaiced).
— Like
ordinary
but with somewhat long cappa of coarse cloth
on head
vela
shod with woollen
feet
;
Carmelites,
two black
;
and
cloth
bark
sandals. 29. Carthusians.
neck and
Cassian.
30.
— White
breast, usual
tunic and scapular; cloth on
velamina on head.
—White
tunic and linen rochet, with black
velum on head. 31. Cistercians. lar,
girded
;
— White
in choir a
— Black girded ample Columbanus, — White and velum on head. Cross, St —White
32. Clugniacs.
black
gray (sometimes black) scapu-
;
white cuculla added.
;
33.
cloth, 34.
tunic,
;
scapular, also
usual vela on head. St.
tunic,
{Penitents
cuculla,
gremial
over which White gremial
tunic,
of).
another, black, girded with leather girdle.
cloth and velum. 35. Dominic, St.
—White
and white vela on head. cappa is added.
vestis,
girded; scapular; black
In choir or
at
the Sacrament a
—
36. Dominic, St {Penitents of). White tunic and scapular white gremial cloth and velum, over which a flowing black pallium is placed which hangs down to the feet. 37. Eligius, St.
— Black tunic, white mantle, white gremial
cloth on head and breast, over
— Black
38.
FoNTEVRAUD.
39.
FoNTEVRAUD {reformed).
which black velum.
tunic, white gremial and velum.
— Black
pallium added
to
previous dress. 40. Francis of Assisi, St.
scapular and mantellum feet in
wooden
;
— Rough
tunic girt with a rope,
white gremial
cloth.
Discaiced
;
sandals.
41. Fructuosus,
St.
— Cuculla,
pallium, and
tunic,
all
Costumes of the Religious Orders. gray in
;
Discalced (sandals worn
girdle securing tunic black.
summer,
shoes in winter).
42. Genovefa, '
plice, black fur at se'rvice over
White gremial
St
./).—White tunic and surornamented with white spots, worn
[Canonesses
almutia,'
arm (something like and black velum over
left
cloth,
Black tunic, 43. Gilbert, St.— lined with lamb's wool. 44. Hilary,
tawny pallium forehead
;
249
a long maniple).
it on head. hood, the and mantle,
tunic, not long, over
St.— Gray
last
which a short band round
black velum on head, with white
;
upward. shoes with pointed toes turned of St John of Jerusalem.
45. Hospitalers
— Tawny
sewn on breast. White velum on head. tunic with of Jerusalem {France).— 46. Hospitalers of St John white cross
Black
vestis signed
with white cross fourchee ; pallium head. on shoulder ; white and black vela
with
similar cross on left
a
into eight parts, Fastened to the pallium a rosary divided symbolical of the instruments of the Passion.
P^nV).—White vestis, linen 47. Hospitalers (C^;/.;/m./,usual vela on head. rochet, pallium from shoulders to feet, (5^;r.;.j).— Black Ghost 48. Hospitalers of the Holy in white on the fourchee cross vestis,
with double-transomed Usual vela on head. of breast. tunic girded (M/^;^).-White HuMiLiATi
left side
49.
white velum. ; Infant Jesus, Virgins of.— Woollen
;
loose white
scapular 50.
On
tawny colour. ing nearly to
feet.
51. Isidore, St.
cappa with hood. 52. James, flory fichee
ing to 53.
feet.
certain days black
— Uncertain
;
velum on head
reach-
probably gray tunic
Spatha.— Black
on the right on the breast. Usual vela on head.
pallium, black
of dark
and
Discalced.
St, de
Jerome,
vestis
St.
— White
velum on head.
tunic,
vestis
with red cross
White cappa reachgray
scapular,
black
250
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
54. Jesuatae.
—White
and brown scapular
tunic
of the same colour added at service. 55.
rochet
Lateran ;
Canonesses
white gremial
A
which black velum.
Regular.
—White
over head and
cloth
cappa
;
Usual vela on head.
wide-sleeved
tunic
and
breast,
over
added
surplice
for
service.
—
56. Laurence, St {Venice). Black vestis with white velum on head, not altogether covering the hair. A long flowing
cassock added for a service-robe, and a long black
velum
placed over the white velum. 57.
Macharius, St.
sheepskin over
— Tawny
vestis
with black cappa, or a
it.
—
Malta, Knights of. Black tunic and scapular, black and supported over the arms to keep it from the ground ; white Maltese cross on left shoulder of 58.
pallium, very long
Black and white
pallium.
supporting 59.
silk
wooden images of
Maria,
St, in Capitolio {Canonesses of).
above which a white rochet.
velum reaching round the neck 60.
Maria
chain hanging from neck
the instruments of the Passion.
to ground. ;
this
—
Silk vestis,
Head covered with long
At
first a
black
crimped, rufF-like collar
was afterwards abandoned.
Fuliensis, St.
— Rough
white vestis
;
white
gremial cloth on head and breast, loosely covered with black velum. Discalced. 61.
Mary the
Virgin, St, Annunciation
of.
— Gray
tunic,
white chlamys or cloak, red cross-shaped scapular, usual head coverings. 62.
Mary the
—White
vestis,
Virgin, St, Annunciation of {another order).
black girdle, white scapular, blue gown, white
gremial on head and breast, black velum.
—
63. Mary the Virgin, St, Assumption of. Blue, secured with white girdle, white scapular, white gremial cloth, white velum (very long) on head. In choir a pallium of mixed silk
and blue wool
64.
Mary the
is
added.
Virgin, St {Canonesses regular
of).
— Black
Costumes of the Religious Orders. which
tunic, over
long black cappa
a
251
girded in choir
is
usual gremial cloth and vela. 65.
Mary the
Virgin, St, Daughters of {Cremona).
Resembling the habit of the
Black.
Jesus, but u^ith black
velum
in
White
Maria, Sta
and scapular
vestis
An
extra
added out of doors.
is
Mercede Redemptionis Captivorum).
{de
;
—
priests of the Society of
place of biretta.
black velum and an extra black mantle 66.
;
—
In centre of
usual vela on head.
a cross
breast a shield bearing party per fess in chief gules pattee argent, in base three pallets.
6j.
Mary the
sponding
Germany
Virgin, St, Servants of.
monks,
velum
with
— Same
corre-
as
caputium.
of
instead
In
order wear a white velum with a
certain of this
blue star on the forehead. 68.
Mary the
woollen
vestis
Virgin,
and
girdle,
St,
Seven Sorrows
of.
— Black
head and breast with white linen
covering, long black head-covering put on out of doors. 69. vestis,
Mary the
like ordinary
70.
Virgin, St, Purification
white collar and
mourning
Mary the
cuffs,
of.
— Simple black — much
black velum on head
dress.
— Black
vestis,
and monogram of
Christ.
Virgin, St, Visitation of.
pectoral cross of silver with figure
Usual vela on head. 71.
Mary
of the Rosary, St.
ception, surrounded
by
— Black
image of the Con-
;
a rosary embellished
the instruments of the Passion, on breast
velum on head. Olivetans. White cuculla and
cloth and white 72.
—
with figures of
white gremial
;
tunic
;
usual vela
on
head. 73.
Pachomius, St.
small white 74.
Greek
— Black tunic and gray hood
Philippines of Rome.
sleeveless surplice
with
— Black
a
row of
woollen tunic, white
black cross in centre.
head. 75.
;
crosses along every edge.
Premonstratensians.
—White
vestis
Usual vela on
and pallium, white
252
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
On
scapular girded.
the forehead a cross signed on the white
velum. 76. Peter of Alcantaria,
girded with a rope
St
(Solitaries of),
scapular, mantle,
;
— Rough No
and velum.
vestis
cover-
ing on head.
Adoration of the Most Holy.
yj. Sacrament, vestis,
—Black
black velamen over head and shoulders, golden figure
of the Host on breast. 78.
Mary the
Virgin,
Presentation
St,
of.
— Black,
white scapular, usual vela on head signed with cross in the centre of the forehead. 79. Sepulchre,
Canonesses of the Holy.
—Black
tunic,
over which a white sleeveless surplice reaching to knees.
Usual vela on head.
which are
is
a
Mantellum, on the
two ropes sewn, knotted together by Wounds,
left
To
double transomed cross in red.
five
shoulder of the left side
knots to typify
the Five
80. Stephen, St.
— White woollen
red cross fourchee on breast. a
white cuculla
is
added with
81. Sylvester, St.
and scapular with
vestis
Usual vela on head. full sleeves
— Similar
to
of red
In choir
silk.
monks, but with usual vela
on head. 82.
Trinitatis,
SS {Redemptionis Captivorum),
— White
and scapular, black pallium. On pallium and scapular red and blue Greek cross fourchee. Usual vela.
vestis
a
—
83. Trinity, Most Holy. White tunic and scapular, tawny cappa signed with Greek cross fourchee in red and blue. Similar cross on scapular. Black sandals.
84. Urbanists.
—Blackish
vestis
and scapular, tawny man-
tellum at service, white gremial cloth, white and black vela
on head. 85.
Ursula,
St.
— Black
with cord, white
vestis girded
gremial cloth, long black 86.
and
velum on head. Ursula, St {Rome). Woollen vestis
violet,
—
with
black tunic
fastened
of mingled black
by black
leather
Costumes of the Religious Orders,
253
Usual vela on head, the black one reaching
girdle.
to the
knees.
Ursula, St {Parma).
87.
hem
violet pallium, the
girt
— Black up
vestis,
very long dark
in the girdle,
and that part
over the head concealing the eyes,
—As monks, but with MiNisTRANTES Infirmis — Black white velum over head and MiNisTRANTEs Infirmis {Libumi). — Blue Vallumbrosanae.
88.
black cuculla
usual vela on head.
[Belgium).
89.
scapular 90.
dress
and
shoulders.
;
dress with
long and wide sleeves, white velaraen over head and breast,
another white velamen loose on head girded with rope round waist.
—
Poor Virgins of the Holy. Woollen White velamen on head.
91. Sacrament,
tawny tunic
girt
with rope.
Mediaeval University Costume.
The
given
here
details
respecting
mediaeval
university
costume are abridged from a long and exhaustive paper by
50 of the Archaeological Journal. no doubt that the university dress of the middle
Prof. E. C. Clark in vol.
There ages
is
The
an adaptation of monastic costume.
is
original
which the universities were developed were of character, and their members wore clerical dress.
schools from a clerical
The
dress of the
unlike
mediaeval universities was international,
costume
the
worn
to-day
;
hence
the
following
account, while primarily concerned with the English universities, will serve as a description
of Continental university
dress as well.
The
system of degrees was developed in France by the
end of the thirteenth century. first,
the
ordinary
determinant
;
or
There were
The
and argued on
four grades
undergraduate
thirdly the licentiate
professor or doctor. lectures,
scholar
;
;
then
:
the
and fourthly the master,
undergraduate resided, attended questions
in
the
schools
;
the
Ecclesiastical Vestments.
254
determinant 'determined' or decided on questions upon which
he had previously merely argued chancellor's
the
*
licence
'
;
the licentiate received
incept
to
take
{i.e.y
the
steps
necessary for obtaining the master's degrees), to lecture, and dispute
to
in
it
The
exercises.
school
highest grade, and
who was engaged
who had
in teaching, and the non-regent,
From
mastership w^as the
included the regent,
ceased to teach.
the second grade probably sprung the baccalaureat
bachelor was at
first
a kind of
were probably recognised only within
lectures
the
;
supernumerary teacher, whose
own
his
university.
The
robes are thus described
Toga
1.
or roba
talaris,
:
simplest and most general
the
form of university dress, probably originally derived from the
Benedictine habit.
front,
It
was
full
and flowing, open
whole length.
Subsequent modifications curtailed the sleeves
for undergraduates (retaining the fuller
and
in
with wide sleeves through which the arms passed their
(in
form
for mourning),
England) introduced distinctive marks
The modern Bachelor and Master
colleges.
for the various
of Arts
gown
derived from this dress combined with other garments. certain
colleges in
Oxford
it
from the wearer's middle to
was directed the ground.
to be
is
In
sewn up
In Clare Hall,
Gona Cambridge, fellows were permitted to line it with fur. and Epitogium, which we meet with in certain mediaeval probably synonyms of
statutes, are 2.
Hood.
The hood
{^caputium)
this.
was
originally
the
head-
was afterwards dropped on the A shoulders, and then assumed the form of a small cape. large tippet is sometimes seen beneath this cape in representacovering in bad weather
;
it
tions of academical costume.
The
hood was black, not lined, and to the back
;
with a short liripipe. by differences of lining
;
was sewn
at
it
Undergraduate's or Scholar^s a longliripipe or streamer
the
Graduate's was furred or lined,
The
various degrees were indicated
bachelors wore badger's fur or lamb's
Mediaeval University Costume. wool
and regents wore minever or some more
licentiates
;
expensive fur
non-regents wore
;
255
When
silk.
the under-
graduates abandoned hoods (before sixteenth century
became
date uncertain) they
ment of
exact
;
mark of the
a distinctive
attain-
a degree.
The liripipe was also called tipetum or cornetum. The latter may be the origin of the French cornette, a silk band formerly worn by French doctors of law, and a possible origin for the
modern English
denote pendant
to
The word
scarf.
false
This, however,
pointed shoes.
In
everyday costume.
and
sleeves,
cornetum used to denote an
of a hood, but
3.
Mantellum.
alike uncertain.
its
origin and
use o^
'
typets,' was prohibited Magdalen College, Oxford, by
From
injirmitatis causa.
(also
mantella
called
:
or
*
this
to
fellows
we may
mantellut?i)
word are commonly
and scholars of
a statute dated
sine cappis et mantellis.^
these passages
mantellum
clearly not the
is
uncertain.
meaning of
certain riotous clerks had to
procession
addition
this
is
or
1479, except
infer that the mantellus
was something akin
to
In another notice (1239) they are coupled with
the liripipe. cappae
This
typet
toga talaris
mantelli ov liripipia^
called
of long-
find
alternative for the
exact significance
The The
tails
we
Oxford,
allowed to Bachelors of Civil Law. tail
the
rather in the region of
lies
at
1507,
used
liripipe is also
also
and from other sources not a hood, but
'is
to,
march
is
in
a
penitential
Prof. Clark infers
worn
from
the academical
that
either instead
of,
or in
the hood, with the cope, or else instead of the
cope or long tabard.' 4.
This was
Cassock,
universities
doctors
of
under laws,
at
their
English universities, on
5.
gowns.
cardinals,
Certain days at present
scarlet.
one time worn by
are
and called
which doctors
Scarlet
^
A
dress
divinity,
Days
scarlet. '
in
in all faculties
This may be a survival of the ancient
Surplice.
of
wore
canons *
members of
all
Doctors
of ministration,
the
wear
scarlet cassock.
used
in
college
Ecclesiastical Vest?nents.
256 chapels
more
by non-ministrants,
as
matter
a
of college
discipline than as academical costume.'
Almuce.
6.
of masters and doctors,
Distinctive
distinct
Another possible origin of the English hood. There were two kinds of cope in use at the
from the hood. Cope.
7.
English
universities
— the
cappa manicata
sleeved cope
or
and an uncomfortable contrivance called the cappa
;
clausa,
which was sewn all the way up, passed over the head when put on, and was not provided with sleeves or other openings the arms
for
save a
short longitudinal
Archbishop of Canterbury prescribed for Archdeacons,
in
arts,
laws,
Deans and Prebendaries
cappa clausa ox pallium only.
worn 8.
The
The
gown proper were statutes
in
a
cappa manicata was probably
dress
tabard or colcbium was a sleeveless
discontinued.
Regents
1222.
it
;
very
contemporary representations.
but ultimately
;
decent garb
to lecture
and dignified
generally, as being a sober
rarely occurs in
in front
in
and theology were permitted
The
in front
slit
this as a
it
was
transferred to
slit it,
gown
closed
sleeves of the
up, the
and the use of the
latter
All not yet bachelors were required
of Trinity
by the wear long
Hall, Cambridge (1352), to
tabards, while Clare Hall, the adjoining foundation, required
Master (Head), masters, and Bachelor Fellows
its
and other robes, in 1359. every scholar to wear a rcba
to
wear
Kings' Hall (13S0) required
this
and
talaris,
bachelor a
ever}'
robe with tabard suited to his degree. 9.
A
University Head-dress.
ecclesiastics
to protect the
and, except the
recognised
skull-cap
was early allowed to
tonsured head in cold weather,
ordinary hood,
this
by the early university
is
the only head-dress
statutes.
however, soon assumed a pointed shape, thus this
form was recognised
doctorate
;
monuments. the
modern
doctors only
The tassel.
as
are
part of the
This ^
,
n
pileus,
and in
insignia of the
represented wearing
it
upon
central point developed afterwards into
Bachelors wore no
official
head-dress.
Index of Sy?ionymous Terms.
APPENDIX AN INDEX Alba
OF
II.
SYNONYMOUS TERMS. Ephod
(Lat.), alb.
A.vaSoXdbLov (Gk.), amice.
Anabolagium
257
(Lat.), amice.
(Lat.,
from
Heb.),
amice. k-LjiavLKa (Gk.), maniples.
XvafSoXalov (Gk.), amice.
€77Lfj.avLKLa
Anagolaium
i-LTpax'i]Xiov (Gk.), stole.
(Lat.), amice.
(Gk.), maniples.
Aurifrigium (Lat.), orphrey.
Faino (Syr.), chasuble.
Baltheus (Lat.), girdle.
Fanon
[a), (Lat.),
Bitarshil (Copt.), stole.
Fanon
[b), (Lat.), orale.
maniple.
Caligae (Lat.), stockings.
Ferula (Lat.), pastoral
Cambo
Fourevre
(Lat.), pastoral
staff.
Cambutta (Celto-Lat.), head of pastoral
staff.
staff.
(Fr.), mozetta.
Humerale (Lat.), amice. Hure (O.-Eng.), ecclesiastical
Campagi (Lat.), stockings. Cappa (Lat.), cope.
Jabat (Copt.), alb.
Capuita (Lat.), pastoral
Kerchure (O.-Eng.), amice.
staff.
Cassacca (Lat.), cassock. ')(^afiaX.av\Lov
(Gk.)
=
X^H-^'
Xavxi^ Chrysoclave
(O.-Eng.,
from
Lat.), orphrey.
Cingulum
(Syr.), alb.
Manicae
(Lat.), gloves.
(Lat.), girdle.
(O.-Eng.),
pastoral
Orarium Oururo
Pedum
staff.
(Lat.), maniple.
(Lat.), stole.
(Syr.), stole.
(Lat.), pastoral
staff.
TrepLTpdxrjXi (Gk,), stole.
7repLrpaxi)XL0v (Gk.), stole.
staff.
Cleystaff (O.-Eng.), pastoral
(^aiXovLOv (Gk.), chasuble. (^aivoXi (Gk.), chasuble.
staff.
Cruche (O.-Eng.),
Mantile (Lat.), maniple.
Mappula
ujpdpLov (Gk.), stole.
Cleykstaff (O.-Eng.), pastoral
staff.
Koutino
fxavLKia (Gk.), maniples.
Chirothecae (Lat.), gloves.
Clappe
skull-cap.
pastoral
(^aivoXiov (Gk.), chasuble. (^aKeuiXiov (Gk.), stole.
17
258
Ecclesiastical Vestments,
Phrygium (Lat), orphrey.
Superhumerale
Pluviale (Lat.), cope.
Tibialia (Lat.), stockings.
Poderis (Lat.), alb.
Tilsan (Copt.), chasuble.
Poruche (Rus.), maniple.
Toga = university gown. Toumat (Copt.), alb. Triregnum (Lat.), tiara.
Regnum
(Lat.), tiara.
Roba (Lat.), university gown. Roc (A.-S.), tunicle or dalSabatyns
(O.-Eng.), stock-
"1
Sabbatoncsj
Sambuca
Tunica alba Tunica
matic.
also university
staff.
'
Virga
(Lat.),
sub-
cingulum.
Sudarium
;
= vakass.
Vestment(0.-Eng.), chasuble.
Subtile (Lat.), tunicle.
Succinctorium
cassock
gown.
vTTOjiavLKLa (Gk.), maniples.
Varkass ^
(Lat.), alb.
talaris (Lat.),
Tunicella (Lat.), tunicle.
ings.
(Lat.), pastoral
(TTOlXapLOVJ
(Lat.), alb.
(Lat.), maniple.
pastoralis
(Lat.),
pas-
toral staff.
Zendo (Syr.), maniple. Zona (Lat.), girdle.
APPENDIX
III.
A LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL AUTHORITIES REFERRED
TO IN THE COMPILATION OF THIS WORK. *^* As
is intended as a guide to the student rather of the labour involved in writing this volume, it has been reduced by the omission of classical and other texts from which casual quotations have been made, and of many books which the author consulted without obtaining any information of value.
than
this list
as a criterion
Badger (G.
P.),
The
Nestorians and their Ritual.
2
vols.
London, 1852.
Bloxam (M. H.), Companion
to
Ecclesiastical Architecture.
Bock
(F.),
alters.
the Principles of
Gothic
London, 1882.
Geschichte der liturgischen Gewander des Mittel3 vols.
Bonn, 1859.
259
List of Principal Authorities, Bona
y.)'
Rerum
liturgicarum
duo.
libri
3
Turin,
vols.
1747-
Bonanni, Catalogo degli ordini Rome, 1722. 5 vols.
8 vols.
(D.), Historie of the Kirk of Scotland.
Calderwood
Wodrow Carter
religiosi della chiesa militante.
(J.),
Society, Edinburgh, 1842-49. Specimens of English Ecclesiastical Costume.
London, 18 17. the Law relating to Cripps (H. W.), A Practical Treatise on London, 1886. edition. 6th Clergy. and the Church Origin, Use, their Vestments Church Dolby (Anastasia), :
London, 1868.
and Ornament. Fabric Rolls of
Surtees Society,
Durham,
publications (Also several other volumes of the
1859.
of
York Minster.
this Society.)
Church, founded Fortescue (E. F. K.), The Armenian 1872. London, Gregory the Illuminator. Haines (H.),
A
Manual of Monumental
Brasses.
by St
Oxford,
1861.
Harrison (B.),
An
historical
Enquiry Into the true Interpre-
Book of tation of the Rubrics in the
Common
Prayer.
London, 1845. Hart
Records of England, Ireland, and till the Reformation. Scotland from the Fifth Century (R.), Ecclesiastical
Cambridge, 1846. Embroidery. ArchaeoHartshorne (C. H.), English Mediaeval 3i8-335» vol. ii, pp. 285-301. logical Journal, vol. I, pp. 1845-47.
Archaologie Beitrage zur Kirchengeschlchte, 1864. Tubingen, 2 vols. Liturglk.
Hefele (C.
und
Howard
J.),
The
(G. B.),
Liturgies.
tssaverdens
(J.),
Christians of St
Oxford, 1864. Armenia and
the
Thomas and
Armenians.
Venice, 1874. Josephus,
Works
of, ed.
RIchter.
Leipsig, 1826.
2
their
vols.
'Ecclesiastical Vestments,
26o King
The
G.),
(J.
and Ceremonies of the Greek
Rites
Church in Russia. London, 1772. Labbe (P.), and G. Cossart, Sacrosancta 18
editionem exacta.
Lanigan
An
(J.),
Paris,
vols.
concilia ad regiam
1671-72.
4
Ecclesiastical History of Ireland.
vols.
Dublin, 1822.
London, 1868.
Marriott (W. B.), Vestiarium Christianum.
Martene (E.) and U. torum. Maskell,
5 vols.
Monumenta
Durand, Thesaurus novus anecdoParis, 17 17.
ritualia ecclesiae anglicanae.
Oxford,
1882.
Migne, Patrologia (almost all quotations from the early Paris, church writers are taken from this edition). 849-64.
1
Moleon
Sieur de), Voyages liturgiques de France.
(le
Paris,
1718.
Neale
(J.
4
M.),
A
History of the
Holy Eastern Church.
London, 1850.
vols.
Papal Letters (Calendar of Entries in
the Papal
relating to Great Britain and Ireland, ed.
London, 1893. Paris (M.), Chronica majora.
Ed. Luard.
Registers
W. H. 7 vols.
Bliss).
Rolls
London, 1872-1883.
Series.
Glossary of Ecclesiastical Ornament and London, 1868. Quick (J.), Synodicon in Gallia Reformata ; or the Acts, Decisions, Decrees, and Canons of those Famous National Councils of the Reformed Churches in France. London, 1692. 2 vols.
Pugin (A. W.), Costume.
Reichel (O.
J.),
English Liturgical Vestments in the Thir-
teenth Century.
Renaudot
(E.),
London, 1895.
Liturgiarum
orientalium
collectio.
Paris,
1716.
Rock
(D.), 52.
Church of our
Fathers.
3 vols.
London, 1849-
1
List of Principal Authorities. (D.), Textile Fabrics
Rock
Collection of
Row
:
26
a Descriptive Catalogue of the
Church Vestments,
South Kensing-
[etc. in
London, 1870. ton Museum]. History of the Kirk of Scotland from the The (J.)> Wodrow Society, Edinto August, 1637. Year 1538
burgh, 1892.
Rubenius
(A.),
De
re vestiaria
veterum, praecipue de
In the Thesaurus Antiquitatum
clavo.
vol. vi, col.
lato
Romanorum of
J.
Leyden, 1697.
913.
G. Graevius, Paris, 1649. libri xv. Saussay (A. de), Panoplia clericalis the Middle Ages. of Decorations and Dresses Shaw (H.), 2 vols.
London, 1853. Cheetham, S.
Smith (W.) and
Stothard (C. A.), 2 vols.
Webb,
Wey
Dictionary of Christian
London, 1875.
Antiquities. •
A
Monumental
London, 18
Effigies
of Great
17.
Sketches of Continental Ecclesiology.
(F.),
Rome.
Willemin (N.
Britain.
London, 1848.
London, 1872.
X.),
Monumens
fran9ais
inedits.
2
vols.
Paris, 1839.
Reference has
also
Church Times, the archaeological periodicals and
been made
to the
Builder, and the principal publications of archaeological societies.
INDEX Absolution, vestments worn
at,
223 Acolytes, cassock of, 139 insignia of, 213, 214 Aethelwold, benedictional of, 115 Aix-la-Chapelle, chasuble at, 86 Alb. See also Alba, 64 noaterial and colour of, 65 ornamentation of, 66, 151 plain, when worn, 67
symbolism of, 68, 69 dimensions of, 69 modifications
of, 140,
Talaris
by
whom
28,
and when worn,
origin of, 29, 31 description of, 30
canons respecting, 30 ornamentation of, 32, 59 baptismal, 36, 37 of newly baptized, 171 sigillata, bullata, dd in Gallican church, 135 Eastern equivalent of, 178 Alcuin (pseudo-) quoted, 34, 64, 69, 77.89, 96, 103, III, 149 Almuce, description of, 142 distinctions of ecclesiastical in,
in the universities, 256 Amalarius of Metz quoted, 52,
68,
T], 89, 92-95, 103, 122
Ambrose
cited,
38
Amess. See Almuce Amice, 64 origin of, 71
description of, 71
141
30
rank
ments, 219
how, by whom, and when worn, 71, 214
contrary to English Church law, 201 by whom worn, 214 Alba. See also Alb, Dalmatica,
Roba
Almuce, evolution of, 143-146 worn under Eucharistic vest-
142
derivation of name, 142
symbolism of, 72 ornamentation of, 151 vakass borrowed from, 188
Amys. See Almuce Anastasius Bibliothecarius quoted, 34 Anglican church, vestments 194 et seqq.
in,
Apparels, 153 Aquinas, St Thomas, cited, 132 Archdeacons, supposed, in St David's Cathedral, 80 Aregius, Bishop, receives dalmatica, 54 Armenian church, baptismal rite in,
171
Augustine
vestments cited, 38
of,
176 etseqq,
Aurelian, his grant of oraria to the Romans, 38 Autun, MS. at, on vestments of the Gallican church, 29, 135
1
Index, Autun, Honorius of. See Honorius Bishops of, their privileges, 102 Auxanius,
circumstances
of
263
Cap, Malabar, 177 university, 256 Cappa, monastic, 235
his
serica, 148 manicata, 256
receipt of the pallium, 51
256
clausa,
Bamberg, Bishops
their privi-
of,
leges, 102 Bands, origin and development of, 208 when worn in Presbyterian church, 209 Baptismal vestments of administrator, 36, 122, 222 ; of baptized,
See also
Carthage, Council of. Cashel, crozier of, 127 Cassianus quoted, 44 Cassikin, 204 Cassock, description
171
distinction
alba, 36
222 and pomegranates, 6
stole,
Bells
Benedict III, life of, quoted, 66 Benediction of vestments, 212 Biretta, birettum, 150, 201 Bishops, insignia of, 27, 28, 213 stole,
Cope
Caputium, 235, 254 Cardinals wear scarlet cassock, 139
how worn
Bonnet of Levitical
See Stockings Caligae. Calliculae, 59 Canons. See Council
Canon's cope, 148, 220 Cap, Levitical, 5 ecclesiastical, 149
138
ecclesiastical
in Presbyterian church,
207
in universities, 255 Casula in Gallican church,
29,
135 secular, 43, 44 See also Chasuble
Celebrant, vestments
of,
214
on vestment ritual, 26, 46, 57 Cencio de Sabellis quoted, 107, 108 Chain, golden, 103 Xa/iaXai;x'7. 1 76, 1 88, 234 Celestine,
Chambre, Charles
Pope,
his
letter
Will, de, quoted, 14 ordinance respect-
I, his
ing vestments, 204 Charles the Great, 60
Chasuble
{see also
materials
priest, 5
Brachialia, 122 Braga, Councils of. See Council Breastplate of the ephod, 9 Breeches, 4 Bucer quoted, 195 Bullinger quoted, 104 Buskins. See Stockings Byrrhus, 33
of,
Council
rank in, 139 modern, 139
by, 74
dalmatic of, 79 wearing archiepiscopal insignia, 102 subcingulum once worn by, 107 vestments worn by, on different occasions, 221. See also under the names of different vestments Bloxam quoted, 80 Bonanni quoted, Appendix i Boniface VIII adds crown to tiara, 121
of
6"^^
of,
eucharistic
Planeta), 64 81
and processional,
82 description and varieties of,
83,84 dimensions of, 86 ornamentation of, 86, 152 symbolism of, 89 forbidden in English church, 201 folded, when worn, 215 Childebert consents to bestowal of pallium, 51
Chimere, 148, 199 Chirothecae. See Gloves Choir, vestments of, 148, 220
Chorkappa, 194
264
Index
Chrismale, 171
Dalmatic
{see also Dalmatica), 64 derived from alba, 78 episcopal and diaconal, 79,
Chrysome, 172 Cicero quoted, 43 Cidaris, 112 Clark, Professor E.
214
C, quoted,
253, ^/ seqq. Clavi, 31, 32, 42, 49, 58, 80 Clement, liturg>' of, 15, 19 Coat of fine linen, 4 Collar,
Roman, 148
Colobium, 32-36 in the universities, 256 Colours, liturgical, unknown Early church, 58 in Western church, 223 in Eastern church, 230
Commodus,
in
t,t,
Consecration of Archbishop Parker, 198 Constantius, 17 Cope, origin of, 146 description and material of,
146
hood of, 147 morse of, 147 canon's, 148, 220
ornamentation of, 153 for most part forbidden in English church, 201 worn by minister, 217 university, 256 Corinthians, First Epistle to, quoted, 22 Cornette, Cornetum, 255 Coronation robes, 162. See Dalmatic, imperial Cotta, 141 Council, second of Braga, 40 fourth of Braga, 40, 41 fourth of Carthage, 30 of Mayence, 41 first of Narbonne, 30 fourth of Toledo, 27, 31, 35, 39» 53. 55. 64, 114, 122 See also Synod
Coverdale, vestments worn by, 198 cited,
200
Cross-staff, 125,
Crozier.
ornamentation of, 80, 152 symbolism of, 79, 81 by whom worn, 214 imperial, 229 Dalmatica, a vestment in Rome, 29. 45. 53 secular, 32 Sylvester's ing. 34
decree
concern-
Isidore on, 35
David wears ephod, 8 Deacon, insignia of, 28, 34, 214 when to wear alba, 30
52,
Sylvester's decree respecting
vestments
34, 52 by, 74 dalmatic of, 79 folded chasuble, when worn stole,
of,
how worn
by, 215 Degrees, Mediaeval university, 253
how
distinguished by dress,
254 De Saussay quoted, 58 Destruction of vestments, 168
Development of vestments, chaps. i-iii passim Doctors of Divinity wear
scarlet
cassocks, 139
wear gray almuces, 142
Doeg, 8 Dol, Bishops of, their privileges, 102 Dolby, Mrs, quoted, 69, 144, 149 Dominica in albis depositis, 172 Dorsal orphrey, 88 Doubles, 220 Drawers, 4 Dublin, Synod of. See Synod Duchesne quoted, 50 Dunstan, St, figure of, 97, 116, 118 Durandus quoted, io5, 134, 172 Durham Rites quoted, 167
130
See Pastoral staff
Cuthino, 177, 180 Cyprian, St, of Carthage, 33 C3'ril, Bishop of Jerusalem, 17
Eastern Churches, vestments chap. V 'EyKoXTTtoi/, 176, 188, 191
Elagabalus, 33
of,
Index. Embroidery.
See
Apparels,
Orphreys Oriental, 162 England, excellence of embroidery in,
163 destruction of vestments in,
169 vestments of church
Ephod, description
194
of,
by whom worn, 8 worshipped, 8, 9 proper name, 9 breastplate of, 9 Latin name for amice, 257 'ETTiyovariov, I08, 176, 186, 191
176,
136,
180,
191,
233 Epiphanius quoted, 113 Epitogium, 254 'ETTtrpax'/X'oi',
50,
monastic, 235 See Toga See also Geneva gown Gregory the Great quoted, 28, 45, 51, 52, 104 picture of, 54 university.
of,
55
176, 1S2, 191,
Headdress, ecclesiastical, 149 university, 256 High Priest, vestments of, 6 et seq. Holland, church of, vestments in, 22, 210 Homer cited, 20 Honorius of Autun quoted, 64, 69, 75, 103, 109, in, 121, 122,123,
Eucharistic vestments, chap, iii chasuble, 82 'E^wXa^aXavxih 1 76, 1 88, 191 of,
symbolism of, 122 ornamentation of, 152 by whom worn, 214
sacramentary Gypciere, loS
Estla, 190
Exodus, book
Girdle, contrasted with subcingulum, 107, 109 Gloves, 64 when recognised as vestments, 121
Gold plate, apostolic, 112 Golden chain (loop of pall), 103 Gona, 254 Gown, black preaching, 202, 204
of, 6, 7
girdle of, 7
'ETTiiJiaviKia,
265
quoted, 4-8
Fabius, 33 Fagius quoted, 195 Ferula, 58 Fife, Synod of. See Synod Final period of vestments, chap, Flower of chasuble, 89
131
Hood
of chasuble, 82 of cope, 147, 153
iii
university,
254
Hope, Mr St John, quoted, 144,
Folkestone ritual case, 201 Fountains Abbey mitre, 119 Gallican church, vestments
monastic, 235
166
of, 29,
Hosea quoted, 8 Humeral orphrey, 88 Hurrara, 190
135
Gammadia, 58 Garland, baptismal, 171 Genesis of vestments, chap,
Infulae, 118, 129
Innocent
i
Georgi quoted, 106 Germanus quoted, 18, 175, 184 Germany, vestments in, 193 Gideon, 8 Girdle, Levitical, 4 of ephod, 7 ecclesiastical,
also ^wj'j;
HI
quoted, 58, 64, 69,
75, 89, 96, 103, 107, 131,
Geneva gown, 208
64,
70.
178,
225 Innocent
IV
covets
134,
English
orphreys, 163 Institution of bishops, 55 Inventory of Boniface VIII, 75
See
Canterbury, 65 Dover, 65 Lincoln, 81, 129, 158, 166 London, St Mary Hill, 141
—
266
Index.
Inventory of
Peterborough,
65,
66,68
Macarius, 17 Mafors, 246
Maimonides quoted, 4 Malabar vestments, 177
Westminster, 65, 70, 218 Winchester, 65, 129
ei seqq,
Irish crozier, 126, et seqq.
'^lavlbaq, 176, 187, 191,
234
Isidore of Seville, 27, 35, 54, 55, 56, 58, 112, 115, 122, 126 Issues of the Exchequer quoted,
Manicae, 121, 135 Maniple, 64, 180.
See
164 Ivo of Chartres quoted, 52, 64, 69, 89, 96, 105, III, 122
description
of,
symbolism
of,
also
Mappula 75 77
ornamentation of, 151 whom worn, 214 Mantelletum, 199 Mantellum, 245, 255 Mantle, 210 Manualia, 29, 135 Mappula, a Roman vestment, 29,
by
James
I
prescribes vestments
for
Scotland, 203
Jerome, 15-18, 114 Jewel, Bishop, cited, 104 Jewish vestments, 2-14, 18, 136 Joannes Diaconus, his portrait of
Gregory I, 54 John, Bishop of Ravenna, 53 Josephus quoted, /\- 10 pas sij?i Judges, Book of, 8, 9
Kamelauch, 234 Ki^apig, 112
Kodi, 177, 186 KoXojSiov. See Colobium Kulpas, 189
Lampridius quoted, 33, 43, 44 Aa/i7rp6e,
meaning
of,
19
Landulphus, pontifical of, 40 Laoghaire, druids of King, their prophecy, 115, 128 Lector, 213 Leo III, 58 Letters on vestments, 59 Levitical vestments. See Jewish Limerick mitre, 120 Lincolnshire, destruction of vest-
ments in, 170 Lineae = tails of pall, 104 Linen breeches, 4 tunic,
4
^^5 •
r
•
origm
of, 52 spread of, 53, 54 Marriott quoted, 15, 16, 19, 25, 29, 50. 62, 94, 115, 122 Martene, 29 Mayence, Council of. See Council Menard, 115
Mesnaemphthes,
5
Messesjorta, 194
Messhake, 194 Micah, 8 Minerva Library, pontifical in, 37 Minister, dress and duties of, at mass, 217, 219, 220 Mitre, Levitical, 10 ecclesiastical,
origin
of, 1
early,
1
64
12
14
development
of, 1
16
infulae of, ii8
118 119 by whom worn, 214 Monastic dress, appendix i Eastern, 234
ornamentation
various kinds
Monuments,
of,
of,
etc., cited
Liripipe, 254 Liturgical colours. See Colours Liturgy of Clement. 6ee Clement Lituus, 56
Arundel, 156
Aiopia, 180
Birmingham, 145
Lucca, Bishops of, their privileges, 102 Luther, reformation of, 193
Broadwater, 156 Caerleon, 49 Cambridge, 150
Bamberg, 102, 125 Bathampton, 85 Beverley, 71, 157
267
Index, Monuments, etc., cited— continued
Chesham Bois, Cobham, 145
172, 173
Ely, 74, 133, 202
Fontevraud, 230 Fulbourne, 156 Havant, 156 Hereford, 145, 219
Paenula, 43, 44, 49i 186 See also Pallium Pall, 64, 187.
Horsham, 220 Kilkenny, 90
material and development
Liibeck, 193 Mayence, 100, 117, 118, 125 Milton, 77
Norwich, 219 Oxford, 125, 145
Randworth, 78 Ravenna, 46 St David's, 80 Salisbury',
1 17 Sessay, 147 Shelford, Great, 156
Towyn, Wells,
71 144,
201,
215,
216,
219
Winwick, 83 Worcester, 67 Wyvenhoe, 76 Morse, no, 147
Pope, 51 Numbers, Book of, quoted, 9 I,
'Qlio(p6piov, 50, 176, 187, 191,
Orarium, 27, 28, 47i 73-
-^^'^
^^^^
Stole derivation of name, 38
49
canons respecting, 39, 40, 41 origin of, 38, 49, 50 Oriental embroidery, 162 Origin of vestments, chap, i Ornamentation of vestments, 58, 66, S7, \Soet seqq. rubric,
whom
speci-
^
carried,
200
origin of, 56 description and
28,
57,
development
126 et seqq. erroneous views concerning,
of, 57,
124 Irish form of, infula of, 129
symbolism
233
Orale, 64, 134, I53 'Qpapiov, 50, 176, 184, 191, 233
Ornaments
of individual
135 linostimum, 34, 40, 52 Paris, Matthew, quoted, 163 Parker, consecration of Arch-
by
68 Narbonne, bishop of, rebuked, 26 See Council council of. Nestorian vestments, 189
secular, 38,
history
mens, 99 by whom and when worn, 96, 100, 102 symbolism of, 102 cost of, 104 not ornamented, 98, 152 Pallium, monastic cloak, 26, 46, ^35' 245 vestment = pall, 29, 47-5 1>
214
of vestments,
Nicholas
of,
96
"bishop, 198 Pasbans, 177, 182 Pastoral staff, 27, 64
Mozetta, 142, 148 Msane, 190
Names
Orphreys, 72, 73, 87, 88, 153 Orro, 177, 184 Ostia, Bishops of, their privileges, 102 Ostiarius, 213 Ouches, 7
1
26
et seqq.
of, 129, 1
31
IlarEpecro-a, 176, 188, 191
Paul, St, quoted, 22, 35 Pavia, Bishops of, their privileges, 102 Peacock, Mr E., quoted, 170 Pectoral cross, 134, 188, 189, 191
orphrey, 88 Pelagians, Jerome's letter against the, 17, 19 Pellicea, 140 Periods of history of vestments,
25 Perizona, 109 ntraXov, 112, 113
268
Index,
^aCKovT], 35 Phaino, 177, 186 ^aivoKiov^ 176, 186, 191, 233, 234 Pileus, 151, 256. See also Cap
Ritual uses of vestments, chap, vii
Pins of
Rock, Dr, quoted, 48, 49, 66, 67,
98 symbolism of, 104 Planeta, 28 secular, 44 Plate, gold on mitre, Levitical, 10 apostolic, 112 Plautus quoted, 43 Pollux, Julius, quoted, 43 Polybius cited, 20 Polycrates quoted, 113 pall, 97,
Poor-ourar, 176, 184 Pope, grant of pall by, 51, 99, 214 his bearing the pastoral staff, 57, 131
insignia of,
106,
105,
130, 134, 135, 139,
119,
214
Prayer-Book of 1549, 195 1552, 197 ^1559. 197
Prazona, 190 Pre-sanctified,
Mass
of,
217, 220
Presbyterians, vestments of, 205 Priests, insignia of, 27, 41, 74,
Roba Robe
of the ephod, 6 Rochet, 141, 199 75, 85,
Roman chap,
12, 62,
68, 89, 92, 96, 122 Rational, 64, 110-112,
152 Ravenna, mosaics at, 4648 John, Bishop of, 53 Reformed churches, vestments
of,
chap, vi Reichel, Rev. O.
J., 50 Requiem, vestments worn at, 223 Rhinthon cited, 43 Ring, 54, 64 by whom worn, 27, 54, 214, 228 description and symbolism of,
123
Ripon Treasurer's Rolls quoted, 174
costume, 14 passim
civil ii
et seqq.^
Rubenius, Albertus, quoted, 38 Rulers of the choir, their insignia, 131, 221
Sabanum, 171 Cencio de, 107, 108 Sacramentary of Gregory Sabellis,
the
Great, 55
Sagavard, 177, 188, 189 2rtK:/cog, 176, 188, 191, 234 Salisbury missal quoted, 68 Sampson, Thomas, quoted, 199 Samuel, Book of, quoted, 8 wears ephod, 8 Sandals, 64 development and description of,
90» 91, 95
by whom worn, 91, 214 symbolism of, 92 et seqq.^ 96
5
Primitive period of vestments, chap, i, 25 Processional vestments, chap, iv chasuble, 82 Pseudo-AIcuin. See Alcuin
Rabanus Maurus quoted,
106, 108, 114, 115, 134,
135. 144
214 Priest's cap, Levitical,
Talaris, 254
ornamentation of, 91, 152 Armenian, 189 Saul, 8
Scapular, 235, 245 Scarf of honour, 1^ of English church, 203 of Presbyterian church, 207 Scarlet days, 255 Scipio, 33 Scotland, vestments in, 203
Act of Assembly of church 209 Senchus Mor cited, 128 of,
Septuagint cited, 18 Severus, edict concerning paenula,
43 Shaesha, 234 Shapich, 176, 180 Shoes, Malabar. 177 Shoochar, 177, 189 Shorshippa, 190 Simples, 220
269
Index. Simplicity
of
early
vestments,
Tabard, 256 Talith, 14
Sinker, Dr., quoted, 113 Spain, vestments in, 204 See Pastoral Staff Staff. Stockings, 64 by whom worn, 105, 214 symbolism of, 105 ornamentation of, 152 Srotxapiov, 176, 178, 191, 233 Stola in Gallican church, 29, 135 See also Orarium, Stole Stole, 64, 182 origin of, 72 description of, "Jl, 75
how
Tertullian quoted, 114
Theodore, Archbishop of Laureacus, 51
Theodoret quoted,
17, 18 of Canterbury, St, his chasuble, 86 Tiara, 112 papal, 119, 121 Tippet, 254, 255
Thomas
Toga, 42, 45, 48
Treves,
Pope bears
pastoral staff
132 Tunic of linen, 4, 30 of blue, 6 monastic, 235 Tunica Alba. See Alba Dalmatica. See Dalmatica Manicata, 32 Tunicle, 64 description of, 132 by whom worn, 132, 214 ornamentation of, 133, 153 illegal in English church, 201 in,
2roXj7, 18
Stolone, 215
Subcingulum,
64,
of,
214
106
et seqq.
Subdeacons, insignia 214 Subiaco, fresco Succinctorium. Sudarium, 50
of,
28,
132,
108
at,
See Subcingulum
See also SurSuperpellicea, 140. plice Surplice, origin of, 140 development and description of,
Teraphim, 9
university, 254 Toledo, Council of. See Council Transitional period of vestments, chap, ii Trebellius Pollio quoted, 29
worn, 74, 214 symbolism of, 75 ornamentation of, 1 51 Spanish, 204 worn by kings, 230 baptismal, 222
history
Talmud quoted, 10 Temple worship, 13
141
University costume, 253 Urban V. adds crown to tiara,
varieties of, 141
in England, 201 in Scotland,
204
when worn,
140, 217,
Sweden, vestments
in,
255
194
Sylvester, Pope, decree respecting dress, 34-36, 47, 52, 81
Symbolism,
56, 57, 68, 69, 70, 72, 75. 77^ 79. 81, 85, 89, 92-96, 102-105, 121, 123, 129, 131, 176, 180, 184, 187 Symmachus grants a pallium,
51
Synagogue models
followed Early Christians, 13 Synod of Dublin, 169 Fife, 210
by
Vakass, 176, 188 Valerian quoted, 30 Value of vestments, 164 Vartabeds, insignia of, 1S9
Velum, 245 quadrigesimale, 228 Verona, Bishops of, their privileges, 102 Vestimentum parvolum in Gallican
church, 29, 135 Vesting, order of, 217, 231
Vienne, 26
Bishop
of,
rebuked,
Index,
270
Vigilius, grant of a pallium by,
Waldenses, vestments among, 206
51 Virgilius,
Archbishop
of
Aries,
Zosimio,
Vopiscus, Flavius, quoted, 38
Walafrid 81
Zando, 177, 182 Zwj/j;, 176, 186, 191,
51
Strabo
quoted,
62.
Procurator
30 Zunnara, 190 Zunro, 177, 186
THE END.
Elliot Stock. Paternoster
R 01V.
London.
234 of
Syria,
ERRATA. Page 47, line 2, for maniple read mappula. Page 61, line 2, for Walfrid read Walafrid. Page 74, line i of footnote, yijr Goodrich r^a^ Goodrick. Page ^T, line 3 of footnote, /(jrWhittlesford read Milton. Page 106, last line, y^r succinctorium read subcingulum succinctorium
Page
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