Yy My Dear Bomb en - Press

YY My Dear Bomb EN_Layout 1 1 1/10/10 12:21 Page 1


MY DE DEAR AR BOMB YOHJI YAMAMOTO

T e xT xT

b y Y ohji

du i T d u T r a du

YAMAMoTo & Aï MiTSUDA

j a po po n ai ai s p ar ar ????


MY DE DEAR AR BOMB YOHJI YAMAMOTO

T e xT xT

b y Y ohji

du i T d u T r a du

YAMAMoTo & Aï MiTSUDA

j a po po n ai ai s p ar ar ????


TabLe Tab Le of conTenTs inTroducTion

7–9

chapTer one: a man A W oMAn, 3 A. M . i. PArenTS D AYAT CAMP ii. T he FA Ce Ce o F A G obY iii. T he n AkeD h erMiT CrAb iV. D eAT eATh h AnD A zAleAS V. n e xT xT T o M Y h eArT, C l oS oS e T o M Y S ToMACh Vi. T he C A Fé Fé i n T he he M orninG Vii. chapTer Two: an arTisT T he P erSiMMon’ S F rUiT i. T he T heA heATer Ter oF l iFe ii. A r AnDoM A nDoM S T r in in G o F b eADS iii. PAriS iV. T he b lACk S TAr V. G olDFiSh S CooPi CooPinG nG AnD Vi. The j oUrneY o ver S AnD D UneS eDiCATeD TeD To A ll M en , A D iTTY, D eDiCA Vii. A ll W oMen U rbAn noMAD Viii. S eTTlin eTTlinG G The S Core ix. T he C oDe x. S TAl TAllionS lionS AnD C reATiviTY xi.

11–48 15–18 19–21 23–32 33–38 39–41 43–46 47–48

51–141 53–58 61–65 66–69 71–81 82–89 91–97 99–109 110–117 118–127 128–133 134–141

biography

142–167

essay  s mtk,

169–189

The Legend of Traces crediTs & coLophon

190–191

5


Berlin, 24 May 2010 Dear Yohji. I write you today after having read in the press about the financial troubles your companies have encountered in the global economic crisis. I was very troubled to hear that you lost ownership of your firm, and that you have had to close some of the stores. I sincerely hope that you can overcome these difficulties, that you are in good health, and that you are with your family. I hope, too, that you can continue doing your amazing work! I went through the same thing a while ago myself, losing the rights to all the films I have produced to date, including “Notebook on Cities and Clothes”, that adventure we shared. Anyway, that’s life, I guess. Please let Donata and me know that you are well! We really love you very much and you are always close to our hearts. With all my best! Your friend,

Ton ami, Wim Wenders

7


Tokyo, 28 May 2010 Dear Wim and Donata, Thank you for your wonderful, heart-felt letter! As you mentioned, we hit financial problems last year, and in October 2009 our company filed in court under the Civil Rehabilitation Law. 1 Those are the facts. At the same time, though, a very high level investor appeared to fully back me and by December we had already created the New Yohji Yamamoto Company. Around May to June of last year I was considering retirement. But, as my new partner was not thinking

in

terms

of

mergers

and

acquisitions,

we

ended up producing a twenty-year business plan and I signed the contract. I did lose ownership, but on the other hand, I feel like I’ve been relieved of a heavy burden. There

won’t

be

any

family

battles

over

money

issues involving the inheritance or the stock. Physically, too, I feel ten times better than I did last year. I consider this turning point the beginning of my final chapter. My one regret is that I’ll not be able to realize the joint venture with Road Movies, which has long been my dream. I’m O.K. Wim ! Let’s make a film together in the near future. With all my best, your elder brother, Yohji

nt 1 : L  l t  lt.

9


chapTer one

A MAN

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etll, t   k  t t     tl tt ll  t t t tt t k   . wt  tllt ,   ll   t t tt t  k t, t l   t v   l l   lt  t ,  ll  t      t     tt t k  v t tt  . a  t  t t  ll   t  t t t    lt  t t  l. i t,   t t t tt  . h lv l l, t  t  t   lv  t t tt      l t t  lt  tt t  . s t, v,    t t t  l vt, t  t    ll  t lt  l  t   t . Tt  , t t l  t  tt  vt  t t tl tt  t t tt t  t  l. w ll ll  v l  lv t t tl vllt l t t t k  . w   tk -   tll  l,   l l    t t    ,  t   l  t. o, lttvl,   l   t l    , t “   k lk  ”   t      ,   lv t  l    . wt ll  t t    tt i v lv. ***

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i. a w oman, 3 a . m .

T ll   . a t t lk t  t 3 .., t   t. m , l  ,  l  t l ll. f  t t, lk  tt   l   k,     t t ,  t   t tl k  t tl . i t   t  t t tt tt  t  lk   . “w  ?” i k. “h   k  tt? y t t    lttl l .” “nv  tt. gt v .” T ll . i   v  t     t . h,  ,  l t  t t . “y’ t,”  . “i t tt  t  ll,” i t. “nt ll, t .” “b, ? i k   l.” s tk  tt  t  t t,  t t   l,   t   l l. wtt  ’    tll -

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 t . “it’ tt t  .” “T  ’t , ll t?” “i’  tt. Lt  v  l  t.” T,  i k t, ’ ttl   t tt,    t l.

ot t  t  l, k,  l  ll  t , t t  l v tt. o t  ll v tl  t l   t t k,   l.

“y    t   lttl l . it’   t k      . c     ’ll v   t t .” T ’ v  t  t t.

“hv  v lv ?”  k.

“gt v ,  t    lt  ,” i . “f.” wt tt,  l kl t   – t lt  tt . “y’ t,   tt t  . y t   t,”   . “wll, t’ t   lt  ,  i t ’t  t . T ’t  t   lt  ll l.” “rl lt? Tt’ t t l l ’ lv,  k. bt t lt  l t  t t    ll.” s ll t kkl   lt  v  t     t t     lt t  ll. “s, ll  k t  tv k?” i   tt  t t t   lt . “i’ t .”

“i’v lv .” “h. i     t’ l  . T’ l   i’v v lv.” i tk     tt. “Lv, ? wll, i’v v ll  l  lv t   tt i l v  t ll   k. Tt k   v lt l .” “a    ’v v        t  .” “n, v’t v   tt t.” “T k  t i    lv  t  tt  t  vlt. i t l k t’ k  lk  t l l tt l t . T l tt l,  t  t t t. i  t tk tt   lk tt  ttl t   , t t t     ll , “o, y, ’  t.” T t   t lk  tl l  t. y  , t , t     tk ’v      lk tt. sl t’ll  t lk ‘i’ t  t,  k,’  ‘i’v t   ll t lv   l.’”

“a  t’ .”

16

17


T  l t t l   l   t. “y’v v  vlv t   , v ?” “y ’t k t ’ tlk t.” “i . n t  l  t lk tt. s l t l ’v lt  t  . T t v    tt   ,    lv   lv , t  t  l t  .” “y, i t .” “bt tt t  l  tl, i’ .” T  tl l  lt   t  vl, ll k      t v,  t l  t t l t t . “b t ,   ll   l tt,  k.” T  lk t . “s  t lt   l  k tt k  t.” “bt i’v v tt    ttl. nt v . y’ t tll  t ’ t t.” “Tt’ t    tt i’ .”

ii. parenTs d ayaT c amp

all , tll, l t  . wtt t t t t k   t l t  lv t t t,   t t ,   t . T l t  t tt , v, tt t   t t  tt . a   t t l ll  v t   t,  ll  t   l. nt  tt ll t t t vlt    t. T   v    lv,  ll t  ltl  t   ll t   t t ll. T qt, t,  “w    l t t?“ it  l  t v  t l  t   t t l, v  t  t t  t   l . T t tlv t tl tt,   tt  t l  t l  ll  l . a l      l, tl t  tt tt  t l  t t  l  l tt     ’ t. i  , t l l t  t lv t  t  t t t     l  ll  t t t k t t lv t l     t   . i  t lv  l  t t l,  i v l tt tt i l   l t  t  ,  tt l  t. i t  t lv t t t. L, v, t  t t tt  l v v t.

18

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w i   t   t t    t l    l t  l ll  t   tl    t t v  l. “i ,” i . s t . “i  t t v  l. i’  ’ll  v ll  l,  tt’ t  t . bt, i t t v  l,   t t  tl, t  ll,  v  l k .” wt t   t, i ,  t t t t l t   l   . i     t,  i t vll t   v t  i     ll l t tt. T t  t t , i , t l  t    l   t. T ll l ,   lt  . i t t t t tl   t, t t t tt,  v l l. a  t lt  v  l.

i ’t k t    t  t  . h  t   l,  i t   t  vt  t t   tl t t vl  t   . i     l tt i   t. i  ,  tll  , t t  tt i     v . at tt tt i lt l,    t, l    t t  t. T   t   l   l tt t  t t l  t   t l tt t ll  t t tt t lv. i  t t k  l ; i t t  t t    l v  t  “w    ?” i  vl  t   t t  t, tlll  t  t t l t  t  t. T t l   v  , t  t   t . T      i     l.

o,  t   , i  vt t  vt  t t  tt l. it  l   t t  n t t  t l tl tt   t       . hv  t ’ l, t  l   t v t l l. at t vt  t t    v  l. i lt   t  i     t t t   l. h  t t . i tt  l t  t  t    , t  t   t t t l, v t lk k t  .

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iii. T he fa ce

ofa

g oby

“T’v       i  i’ll    t  t t,”  t    l. it  lt    l nv t tt     t mk stt. w v   . i k     t t t tt.“ s  t    t   t t . T  t t t tt t t   . T t tk l t  t’   o, ik t ,  i’   t t lv . i  t t     l. m t  t-t tt  t ,  tv    k; t  t lt   vl  tll ll vl t. T t     l     t t t   t t   ll   t , t t t t   t  t-t, i   , v l. T  tll -   o t tt t,  i l t  t l  t . b g l  tt     t l l tl      t t , t  l  t . Lttl g’ v l  t. “d’t   l, t’ .” s l i  t tll   t  l , t   t  Tk t   i  tt l,   lt t t t lk t. T    t i ll. w   t   t,   v l  l  t  lt    t   lt  t t. h

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 l  l , v    ot 3, 1943,  t  t  t  t t. wt  l  t v  t? ct t   t, t  t l v  t tl  t   t  . h  tt-  l t t t,     lt  l. i  tt t  t t i t lt l, i tk,  t l  l   t  t  t t tt       t t . mt  l l t  tt  l   , t    t l     l  t ltv  . d  t l  t   t  t t  t  b, pl  t tt  t. h  v t t  . at t l, l tt i , i tk  tl t  t t t t         tl t  t . m t  t t      l. m t k    k,    t  t l i k . “w ’t i v  t?” h   t t tt tll  ,  i lv i k t qt tll t tt  t. i  l l tvt  t ll t tt   t. i   l, k     i   t. i  lt,  t,  tk t l k, t i  t tll   t. i tll lt ,  t t t  t tt  Tk  ll t ll tt ll  t l.

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b  t t  sk,  t t-t l tt  Tk,  l  t l t lk  t lt  t   tvl  v t st l tl. o,   l, i  t l t t  t t ll. a t ll t  , lv  lt k  t l lk t. a  lt     ll  t . o t  i  t    . i   t  v      ll t. i t  t   - gi l     . i  t tk  t tl i  , t tt tt    lk  . i  tk tt t a l  t k t. T k t  lv      t k   tl t   k   t  Kk   sk. h  t,  t, t     i    l. s   tt    t   lt l t   l. i t t  i t  t l lt l i   tt t  vt l ll t gō gk,  t l  t ’ t. T l t v l t t yk s. Tt     l  t l tk   t  tlv l  sk t t t  K hll,  i t   t  ll  t  t t t t l  t t k t. i v  tt  v  t   t yk l t t l  ll t j lt     v t t

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t. m ttt t   t   tt  t   i t t vl t  yk. T    tt  t vl, t l tt  t  t  i lk – t t, l,  t i  l, v lvl, t tt t. it , t ll, t t i tk t l t  t i  tll . i  t t t. i lk t l,  t v  kl tt  t   t. rv t tl  i  tt  t l   t  t   l  tt  t v t t t t  t t. T  t   t,  t q t   ll t   v t lk lk tll. T t l  q l k    k t  lk t l    t   lk. w u.s.     t  t, t k t,  t t t t  t t tt  . utl   t  t t t   l    t,    l t. h  v t  tt. d  t l  t   t  t t  t  b, pl  t tt  t. i t  k i ll l t tk, “h  i t t t tt l t  t? h  i l   l t  t?” i  t t  t  t. “wtv l   ,   t t  T at  svv  t w d.” s v   l lk  , “w  t l l   t lk tt?”

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The best time catch them is after the autumn equinox So it is a little too early, but… I was invited to fish for g oby. Tokyo Bay was perfectly calm and the weather clear The glare was intense, and the heat unbearable. “Cook this guy up as tempura and you’ll find him rather tasty. But take a go od, long loo k. The goby’s face Looks a bit l ike a human’s, doesn’t it?” The lively laughter of my buddy Namekata! “It’s the same with the face of any fish. They are, after all, the distant ancestors of man…” Even I though t my response was r ather trite , so I started it, Only to wrap the second half of it in spit and swallow it down. It was high no on on the d ay Japan los t the war, And his mother had been li stening to t he emperor’s radio broadcast. She went into labor in the middle of it, And he came int o the world. For some reason The story was one he told often, and was proud of. Namekata’s grandmother, her roots in the old downtown district Of Kakigarachō in Tokyo, was a spirited soul. “Goby caught after the equinox work best for palsy.” This old saying was one familiar to me.

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“The very year I married, you know, we had the Great Kanto Earthquake, and I remember it well. And the exte nded air ra ids on the Anniv ersary of Victory in the Russo-Japanese War? We scrambled and somehow managed to come out alive. Both disaste rs left tens o f thousand s in the Sumid a River, Dying of burn s or drowning in its waters. Those goby in the Tokyo bay? What is it, do you think, they’ve been eatin g to make them so big? There are people who refused to eat goby their whole lives. 2

i  t i t t   t. Tk t  l  t k t t , t, vt      tt t t   t ttt. evtll, t l  t, i t t t   t t vt tt t   tt. nt l, t  t  t, t lt ll     i  l t. i t     t e, tvl v t s l. T  tk , vtll, t t t  r. wt i  t vvl  t t tt t t   . a l    ll l    v   t  t,  t t t t,   t   t t t. it  t l t l  l tk  t t. T t t  tl  t  ,  t   k t  t. h , t   l, v  t  t  t; t l t  t k   t k t  k. i t   k t   t t    ttt t ttt ttt. m tt tt   i l t tt  r, v,    t t . p  t   t t t  vtl , i lt tt  t  ll lt  vlt k l t  l  tv  t  lt  l  ll -   , ll l tt lt,  ll t t  . o, t tk t  t t, t  t t t  l   t k  t t l  t   t t. T t  t t t t v,  ll l  ttt t t  t  t    t t

nt 2 : A Short Tale of Tokyo Bay , l  ht a,   cū yk. il  y yt’ l Well, I Gotta Go [Saa, ikanakya] , emi m j, 1991. 28

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. i lt t k t t t  tt t,  t t  t l l   Vanity Fair l  i  t tt  t t . w i  t k lt  l tt  t v   t  tt   ’ lt. i t  j  ,   tt  , t,  lt,  i l t tt t. at t vt   l tt t i ll t t  t tt i l  t t . s  . T t  l tl    t  t lv t vt  tt tl t   t   . s lt , t tt  i   t t k i l t lt l  t t lt. i ll   vtl l  k , tl  ll    q t kll   t v t  t, i t    t l     l  t q t   t  ttt        . i lt t    k t  t’ k . elt  l  t t  t  l, k  t k t t tt t  t. hl  t  t, t i ltl tk t t  i l ltl t l t t lt   t  lk. i t t. it    t t tt t    t Kk   sk,  l vl t     t ttllt l t. T        l,  i  t t t t ll t v t t t, ll-lk  tt    .

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sl t  . “hll.”  t v  t l. “y?” “y ’t  t k t.” “T ’t t  tl tt  t  ,  i  t t.” “w tt t? a, i’v  tk t  lv  tt tl. a  t l?” “i .” “wll, tt’  t .” “a…” “a t t  ? i’t t tt  lttl l? m  l t t t, t l .” w  t l l  ll  t l  t ? o , t   t. Lv  l, m, l ? a t lt    t, k? m,    v, lv  l. i’v l vv t  l    . bt, m, T   t i t t , k? pl, tv  , t ’t lv  . d’t lv  ll l. i  t  t. “wll, t, i  i’ll  ,”     ll   l-l tk. “h, t  t! y  ’  t t lv   lk t?”

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“wt l  i ? i’v t t t t k.” i k, i k, i k. a,  t  t t  t alt lt    t. a t  t t v   t t  t l.

iV. T he n aKed h ermiT c rab

“h, m,  t   t   k t ?” “a k t ? h. wll, i’v v  . ht  v  t ll  t l   t ’t lv  t  ll   l.” “bt t  t ll k ? wt  t?” “i tt  t t v t t l’ ll.” T  ll    tt . o t    l  t   t t k, t t,     l. y  t  l. Tt’ t  t . T l   t t  ’  t l. y k, i’v tt t  lk lk t . a  tt i tk t t, t     tt . w t  t  l  v ,   t t  t t . w tt  ,  tt t t  l ’v  lv, ’ll k l t t t gt 38,  . Tt  t  . T t  t  tt  tll  l  t t t   t l. r ? w  v, t t t tt ’ll       tt. nt ’ll lk    . i t    t tt tk  , i’ll k t   lt s    v  . Tt   l v      lv .

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a, . a  ,  t   k. w l v  tlv. o t. et l  . w ’t   t. w  t  t t  . T  t  lt   l   l  t tt. Tt l k t t.

I’ll set off on a journe y, I’ve got the money

Tt’ t   tlk t t,      lttl tt t   kt, ’t ? T   t ll  t  l l   t l  t t,  i’ l  ll t   t  t t  .

I’ve run a nd run, forever.

i t t  t , v  t       t k  , t  t l  t ,  tk   l. a ,    l t, i     t . T   l   t t l tt  v. T lt   tl  t   tl  t  ,   t k    t t .

I’ll buy wha t I dream of, I’ve go t the money I can buy a life for her, too. But why, why, do I feel a chill?

I’ve run to the finish, a lways. There has been nothing to make me sad. I do, though , feel the cold . I was too seri ous a sort to li ve for the da y I was unabl e to live for t he day Well, I gotta go, it’s time. The scenery outside the window is familiar But it has bee n a long time s ince I’ve se en it like th is Beyond the g lass, staine d and dusty like me The greenery that I love looks nothing but black

T   t  t  tl   t  . stll, t  lk t t     l  tl. it  lk, t, t t  tt    t    t .

It sends fo rth new buds, b right with ye llow and green It seems I’ve been perhap s too lazy It seems I’ve worried perha ps too much

i t t  t   k t  t t  t  t t   i k   . yt i k tl ll tt  l  i t t,  ll ll v .

Do not complai n, you’ll be l aughed at Stand firm To live for the day means One can’t live for the day Well, I gotta go, it’s time.

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I’ve run an d run, forever. I’ve run to the finish, a lways. There has been nothing to make me sad. I do, thoug h, feel the co ld. I was too ser ious a sort t o live for th e day I was unable to life for t he day Well, I gotta go, it’s time.

3

T  t tt    t t  lt        t,  t ll   k    l    t t t pl tt tll t . a t, , t  . a  i ’t v t ltt tt   tt    t tt v  t t v t     l  l. y’ t . a i lv . it’  l  tt. i   l  t    t l t t . it lt   ll   . T ’   tl  t      v . s tlk t . h l  l tk  t ? i t    l  l  tll   k lk  t t. T, t  t, ll   t    t   t lk  v  t. Lv t     l  t i   . T   t . w  t  qt ll t    ll ,   , t . w t  tt t k    t k t l t  tt  . T   ll t  t l     lv   l  t k  a    ll  t    lt. “wt ‘lt’?” T  qt  . a  t . y  t .

nt 3 : Well, I Gotta Go , l  s,   s. il  y yt’ l Well, I Gotta Go [Saa, ikanakya] , emi m j, 1991. 36


“T ll t  t l  k,   t t tl, t   t  v ll,   t t     lt. Tt l  t l.” “rll? Tt l  lk  l   l l.” a, t  qt . s l? it l  t    tt. it l   lk   t . i’v l  t  k,  i’ lk t t   l i’ l t l   l   k. wll, i’v t t  . i’v t k t . i’  t k, t ’ll t tt  . i t   k   i’v t t t . s, . T t t v   t t t’  l t i tt, “nt   ll  .”

V. d eaTh and a zaLeas

T l,  i t, l,  t  m. s tl  tt    t  t t vt  t,  t  tk  t  t . i  t  t ,   tk  . T t    t llt t   t. T t  t  t  t  t l l  t l  vl t l  t v. at t t  ,  t l lt  t  tt - t j l (  t l lt t?),  v   l,  t l  l . jt tk t t t   ,   tl . w v t t tl t  tt t ltv  tt t  . m ’ t  l t t t t  v t t  t    t   l  tl  lt  tl . h    t, l ll, t    l   t t t t tt       l. i  v t   t  lt t tl l. ot  t tt t l  t , l vtl, t l   lk     l. T  t  t, t l l  t  lt l  k. ill t  t t lt  t t tl , t l  v  tl. T    t    t t tl    tt t   l l t.

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Yellow sweatshirt sleeping on the bench Khaki trousers folded back On a young forehead deep wrinkles sleep The morning is cold in a park left behind Between the b uildings, a t imid striped sky Nestled deep ly in his arms The thin bridge of a nose and a gaping mouth, Both child-l ike Soon the detested azaleas will bloom Does someone as young as you think th is means the e nd? With a heart full of ambition, and indifference, and with tattered shoes Clearing his throat self-consciously An old man and dog slowly p ass by A disgruntled taxi slams on its brakes Spring, come too late and too slowly Spring comes again, will you survive? Soon the azaleas I detest will bloom Soon the spring I detest will arrive Soon the azaleas I detest will bloom 4

nt 4 : Azaleas, a Dog, and a Yellow Sweatshirt , l  y yt,   y yt. il  y yt’ l Hem: Handful, Empty Mood , at c, 1997. 40

T l   t t t. T t l    t t lt  l’   t tl ; t t   l,   tl lll t t  t;  l- l   t t t t t l  l  t t. m ,     t i   t, l t   t t. h t,  v,  tt  l . T t t   l’ v t t t    , t t. b    l   l  ,  v t t  t    tt  l l  . a k lt  t--l lt t l, v t t. it  v   l tt. i v k   t. wl i  tll  t   t  v,     v t t . b   v  t L  tt   . wll t    t    t  ll? wll t      t  , i t  t t ll t  t t t,  i  l t t   ,  i t ll  t t tt i ? wll t    ,  tt tt , i  t t   tt lt ? wll t     i  t   t    l,  t  tt?

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Vi. n e xT T o m y h earT, c L os e T o

m y s Tomach

i t t   l,  l,  tt  tt t  . m t t t  t l    tt    t tt . it  t t   l,   t  l t  l, t  lk  t , t    v t t. it l   t t  tt t   t    t  v  t  i  t. i  t   . it l ll    t . i t , t . a  tt v , i  . i  t   . Missing somebody

i  t t tt     v tt, v  t lt t  tt. i  ltl, l t k, l  t i   t  tt,  lt t,   i lv,   l. w  t  t    l t  “ t.” i  ’t  v  . it  l t t i  t  t , l   i   t. i ,  t,     t tl   tt; i  l t ttl   v  tl. a  t t l t t  t  t t  t. T  t l  t tt t l qt   t   t   t l. T tt t  . a t  ’ l t,  t t tt l  t tk, “i k t’ t t, , t i    ! w  t v t t t t ?” it  t k tlt. T  t  t, t

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t, v k  k. a t k ll v  t tt t,  k. nt,    , t  t t  lv tl   t  t  t tk   t ll . f   t  t lktl ot, t t   t tt   l vll l lv t ll  t tt t tv t t  t   l l t tt t t ll  t t. “wt l   t   l      l  ,” t , “it  ll tl ll, ’t t?” at t t, v, t  t l  t l,   t tt l t tl. T lttv l,  , t    l , t  t  ,  t . T l  ,   t , t    l   t t,  t  t  t    bt t. it  qt  t. L, t,  t ,   l tt t k  t t .

Time has passed. Yes, time has passed. For now, that’s it. I can find no other way to s ay it. In a corner o f my heart, clo se to my ches t The reason for that sadness remains. Back then, when they called us young, I liked mysel f a little bet ter, Perhaps becau se I was searchin g madly for s omething When I looked in the mirror and tried to smile I saw the reflect ion of a shel l of a man If the body alone was alwa ys healthy, It would be, I imagine, unbe arable If my hair was al ways soft and flowing

h  lt l   t t l tt ? wll i   i v    t t’ ? wv i lk i  t   i   ,  i ll tk t  t  t tk,  tll t t t t  t v. T, ll kl tt t  t  t ll , i ll l lv. n, t    ,  t     t. a t tt .

I don’t think I could sta nd it. Powerless, like a boy Somehow lonely, somehow funny Grown old, like a boy, Somehow sad, somehow appealing Next to my hear t, close to my s tomach There is still a reason to weep.

a  lt , l,   ,   .

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Perhaps it is b ecause I fee l some remorse towa rds

Vii. T he c a fé

i n T he

m orning

Thing around me which I’ve sullied in life And those who m I’ve hurt. Will having lived doing my best Somehow make it all alright? Or will having exhausted myself in selfish pursuits Leave me the la ughing stoc k of all? I realize these things only just now, Having trav elled all the se miles.

i t k  l t . w t t   i tk  kt t t  , t  t lk . T   l   t   t. m tl  t t, t ,  t,  l vt – t t  l t . ev i     lt   lt. a t t t t  tl  t  . T  lt ,   t l  tl. al t  l    t lk t . a l l tl ,  tlt t          tll .

Powerless, lik e a boy Somehow lonely, somehow funny Grown old, like a boy, Somehow sad, somehow appealing 5

“st?” k t ll tl v  l. i l. a, t tt t t t k  t !

***

nt 5 : Next to my Heart, Close to my Stomach , l  y yt,   y yt. il  y yt’ l Well, I Gotta Go [Saa, ikanakya] , emi m j, 1991. 46

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i  i lv t  v . T  v   t   t,  , t      v  , t   . i  t  t  c . it   t  . T   t  t v tl,   lttl lt,   t t ll  t t  l t t. T   l  t tt   t t  t tl. w  t   ;  k  t . sl t  k. “h,    t  tt b dl  t  , tt    t t  ?” T  v      . bt   t l  , i l    l. T, t  tk, i    vt, t   l .

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biography

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i  ,   t,  t 1940,  t sk tt  Tk. a t t i  – t t l l   t  t   t t   l i’   l l l   tl. T l  t   l    ,   ’ v   tt   t t t  t . a  t t lt t t  , t     t  t t t. i’  ll t,  tt’   l .

1966 gt  Kō uvt, Tk 1969 gt  t bk f cll, Tk T lt ,     i k  t i v v         i   t i v v        k,…  t  llt  t t.

1981 T t y yt llt  p.

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1989 T as f Notebook on Cit ies and Clothes , a fm dctd y Wm Wds i    t   t Tk  t w w  p   lt. b   tt  t  t k  t  ,   tt tt      t t  .

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1993 Cstum dsg f t Wag opa Tristan and Isolde  t bayut Fsta T  i t t  t t l  h müll. o   t ,  i   tt  vt  v. i t t t   t    tt qtl t l tl. ml  el,   t k. “m   h müll  i’  lt. i’v tl   t   w . i’  tl  i   l.” “wll…” “i t t  t w tt.” “s t? i tt ,   t  .” Tt v   lv  1999,   l l  a tt i qt  t . w t tl k  i  tk tt t   t t t t . i k i l’t t t . o t v t   t    t  t t t. s t lt t w   tt      l vt. T  v t t,    . “w t  l t t  t t  t  w .” wt? h i  t tt?

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müll  ll tt t tt  . m t  tt w w  vlv  t v , tll müll t  t . h müll. b  et g,  t     l t t l l ttl The Hamlet Machine. h         t b t. h  l ttl t   , vv tk. s t w   tlv   l vt i ’t    i l l t  t  t. i’   ,     t  ,    i’   p cllt, i’   t bt. T  l  t t  ltt, tt   h müll v  k t  t . ov vk    l t  tl t t v    k t l t tt t    t. i’ t  t p cllt , tl ,    l   bt  t tk . “w  t l  i  t?” Tt  tl,  t    k      t bl llt   t ll t ttl t  e. s tt t v  t – i  t t k       t  . Tt’ t i tl l  i  k  t t p   b t,   t t   

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   tl i ll v t t v  t . bt mkl  r gv   tt,    l lt  t l t. T vt . T t  l l t l     t,   t  v  t  ll t l. i ’t ll  t  t  t   t, t i   t    t  v. “w’t tt lvl!” “h…” f t t  t k- t t   t , v lt t   lt t . i k  t  t ,  t  t 3 ll . “s t  t ‘lt’  ll t,” i tt. “h t v   t  ll  t?” i’ k, ll. T    t tv,  i k i   t v t  t t. it   tl tt.

m t t vt t t w tt,    tt  tll tt   lt tt  t 5 ll  t t w st! i  t  t t t l  t ’  t.

i t  t tt  t, t tl k  w  t ll   vt   vt  ttt, l    t “t”  t  ll  t  t . i  t t – tt  v.

h müll. wtv  lk i  v , tt t k t     t l. mt    t    l t  i’ v  .

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1998 Caat  t cats f t 25t Asay f t Pa bausc Cmpay, Tatat Wuppta o    v. “c t wtl   t   25t v.” it   p b. i’  l   p   l tt i’ tt, t i    t i l . T,  i k t, t lt  t    tt. T tt  t ll  t  t v . ft, i    v    l t t t t t  . T  ll   t , l t . o  tt t t tt tl, t  t t t t. i t t   t  t l, v t i’ l  , tll  t,   , ll    t tt lt  v . i’  t  t tt ’t t t,  t    lt . T , t,    t . Tt  t   tt i  tt v. o t t tl   k t  kt  ttt t l t   kt v k  Heian Nidan . T  l t  t t,     t  t.

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a i’   qt  p. “i’ll   t  , p,” i , “a i’ lk  t   t, v    t l   v t .” p l ,   v ltl,  t l   l  t    . T l vt  p’  l l  v t kk    t     t t kll t t t  l tk. p  l t , l   t k, t  tt lk   ,     vt. a t vlv t   t t  t t t kt vt,  t  t t l. at    t t  l, l  k t  , v t  t  vl lt  t t tq vlv. “ok. n tk   t … ttk!”

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T     t vtl    t l,  t t t    t  t l t. i t, t, t  t   tlv . f t l i tk t t l,  t kt tt Heian Nidan ,   t  tl   t l . i t t t t. it  ll  v. p, i tl  t.

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1999 Cstum dsg f t fm Brother , y dct Tas kta 2002 Cstum dsg f t fm Dolls, y t dct Tas kta at w   t  t Wings of Desire,  ttt v    t k t l Until the End of the World . T t tt t t    t,   l k  l . w t   t t   t  t   t v w l  -v, i tk   v  nhK , j’ tl t tt. w v, t t  , t l’t t tll. w       t tt   t     t t lk lk  t l  t. “ n, , tt’ t   t’ !” i  . f t  lk  tt  tt  t t tl t tt  l  t tt   t… t lt tt’  i  t. o t  , t   v t t  l  t lvt , w lt t,”h, y,   v t lk t –  k  k ’t    t tt  t v t  t t t ?” i  l   . T, t   tll t tt , i , “i  v t lk tt.” st  t tt t lt, lk  l,  tk   l  t .

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o Tk Kt , “i hll v t v   t  t t  t  t.” h  l l  t t   t  t  t  l t . i tk Brother t t tt t Dolls  t  t lt t t  t  t l. ev t i’v  t, i v  t  t t    t t  l. it  ll v lt t  t lt     l  t t. Tt’ t k t   l  ll k. T t   l v t  t t t v  t   t t. T t v lk t t t t. i’v kt t    t  t,   t k i’v  t Tk, Zatoichi (T bl s)  tll  t t l. f tt t    lt  l t  ,  t i   t t t i lt t t t . i t ’t l ll, t t   l  v t . s,   , t l  l   tt t v   t l   t. T j l t yō o tt v t  t   tt tv. u  ttv  l  l   t, lv t v tk. h’ t tk  tt lt lv tt   j’ l tlt, tt l t l t   t   t   t. o’ t v  vlt tt k t t l l.

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Tk Kt, t, i tk  l t ak K. K   ,     l, t. h l t  , k t v   t   l  t t t lvl. T Tk l i lk t     i ’t  t t, lk Sonatine  Hana-Bi (fk). i t ll    q   ma, t t   t  . i t l   t   t t ,  ttll  t t tt . i l lk t t   “t  vl” . nt     t   l, t    , i   lttl t  t .

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s p?

1994 a f cvl  L’o  at t  Ltt 2004 a j gvt’ ml t pl r (s) 2005 a f ntl o  mt, o 2006 a bt rl st  at’ h rl d  it 2008 a  h dtl d  t uvt  t at, L

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c rediTs p1

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ct o Kt i.

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y yt i.

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dt w

c oLophon a uThors Y ohji YAMAMoTo & A ï MiTSUDA c onTribuTors S eiGoW MATSUokA & i rène SilvAGni T ransLaTion j AMeS DorSeY g raphic d esign PAUl boUDenS p hoTograVure STeUrS, a nTwe rp p rinTing ProoST, T urnhouT

ct © 2010 T t  t tt ct © 2010 L  y yt . ct © 2010 y yt  c t © 2010 nk Kt t ct © 2010 b ht t ct © 2010 dt w t ct © 2010 ytk yt t  www.ud.

i  tq  t    t t  l   y yt’ Theory of Fashion Evolution [Yohji Yamamoto no fashion shinkaron ],    tl l  t  High Fashion  1986  1987.

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