Vogue's Book of Sewing - 1934

PRICE

25CtNTS

Pinyourfaithto

VOGUE...

yourclothtoa

VOGUEPATTERN

Whenpricesofmaterialsmountandclothes are

costlier,VoguePatternsstepmorefirmlyto thefore

inanyfashionpicture.

Itisso importantthatqualityfabricsbecut onchic

andperfectpatterns.Itis alsoimportantthatprecious

hoursshouldbeprofitablyspentin turningoutwell-

styled,finely-fittingclothes.

VoguePatternscostalittle more,buttheyarea lot

moreeconomical.Theyareyourunfailingstyleinsur-

ance.Todaythatinsuranceismorevital thanever.

 Thewisewomanpinsher faithtoVogue—hercloth

toaVoguePattern.

Pinyourfaithto

VOGUE...

yourclothtoa

VOGUEPATTERN

Whenpricesofmaterialsmountandclothes are

costlier,VoguePatternsstepmorefirmlyto thefore

inanyfashionpicture.

Itisso importantthatqualityfabricsbecut onchic

andperfectpatterns.Itis alsoimportantthatprecious

hoursshouldbeprofitablyspentin turningoutwell-

styled,finely-fittingclothes.

VoguePatternscostalittle more,buttheyarea lot

moreeconomical.Theyareyourunfailingstyleinsur-

ance.Todaythatinsuranceismorevital thanever.

 Thewisewomanpinsher faithtoVogue—hercloth

toaVoguePattern.

13E1

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 THEYCOSTNOMORE!

 Theymerelylookexpensiveandmakeyourfrocks

andgownslookthatway —becausetheyare

styledinbettertasteand smarterfashion.Most

qualitystoresknowthisandproudly showthem.

Ifyourdealeris theexception,sendushisname.

AlsoDUMARIStarchlessPrintedOrgandies—Fair/spun

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OF

 THEPATTERNYOUBUY

ISTHEFROCKYOUWEAR

 Youwantlovelyclothes... arepar-

ticularabouttheirfinish,theirfit, their

smallbutimportantdetails... that'swhy

youownthisbookaboutdressmaking.

Butineverydressyoumake,the first

andmostimportantstepisthe selection

ofapattern.Thisis yourfashionguide,

yourguaranteeofasmartlystyled,prop-

erlydesignedgarment.

Finefabric,finesewing,increasethe

beautyofafrock,butits greatesthelpor

harmcomesfromthepatternbywhichit

ismade.Andsoweurge you...besure

thateverypatternyoubuyis:

accurateinsizeandcut

easytouse

createdbyskilleddesigners

backedbyworld-widefashionauthority

Measureeverypatternbythesefour

standardsandyouwillhavereal satis-

factioninyourdressmakingventures.

VoguePatternsaremadeforthe

womenwhodemandandgetthesefour

essentials...forwomenwhobuywith

wisdomanddresswithdistinction.They

arehardtoplease,critical. ..andthey

areVoguePatterns'bestcustomers.

ENTIRECONTENTSCOPYR IGHT,1934,BYCONDfiNASTPUBLICATION S,INC.

WHYLEARNTOSEW7-WHYNOT?

PICKUPYOURNEEDLEIFYOU

AREINTERESTEDINECONOMY

 THEproblemoflookinglikea milliondollars

onpracticallynothingatall distressesalmost

everyoneofusthesedays.The bestwayto

managethisdeception,andthemostunbeatable,

istowield acleverneedleyourselfina smart

fabriccutbya Voguepattern.

Ifyoucansew—thatis, sewwithprofessional

skill—,youholdinyourhand thesesameof 

chic.Youdon'thaveto beoneofthedozens

wearingdressesturnedoutbythe gross,inall

coloursandinall sizes.Youcanbean individu-

alist;youcanplayup toyourtype,choosing

thecoloursandthelines thatsuityouandbring

outyourbestpoints.Youcan havethatcustom-

madelook—likeamanwhoseclothesaretai-

loredandnotready-made.

It'salittle obvioustogointothe highermath-

ematicsofthefinancialbenefitsofa sewing

talent.Anyonewitha practicalturnofmind

canfigurethatoutfor herself—andwillknow

howshecanwhittle downexpendituresandin-

creasethesizeofa wardrobe.

Everywardrobe,tobeagood,workableone,

shouldhavegarmentsthatmaybefittedtogether

likethejigsawpiecesof apuzzle.Thewardrobe

shouldbeflexible,itsseparatepartsinterchange-

able.Eachitemshouldfitinto differentsartorial

schemes,playadoublerole,and,sometimes,

evenatriplerole.

Usually,itisimpossibleto managethischameleon

qualitywhenyouaccumulateawardrobein the

shops.Thedressyouwantcan't behadinthe

colourorsizeyou want.Theskirtofyourchoice

isoff-tone.But,inthe fabricdepartments,youcan

workthistrickof interchangeabilitywithgreat

skill—youcanhavedressesthatcollaboratewith

yourcoat,jacketsthatringchangeson allyour

frocks,skirtsthatwillincrease theusefulness

ofyourcoats.Thus,withlengths ofmaterial,you

canplananextensiveandverybeautifulward-

robethatwillround outyourlifeperfectly.

Sewingisnodeep,dark mystery."Allwelland

good,"someofyouwillsay,"but sewing—pro-

fessionallyperfectsewing—isoneofthosefairy

godmothergifts—likeatalentformusicor art,

bestowedatbirth.Youeitherhaveit, oryou

haven't."Allofwhichis sheernonsense.Were-

peat:there'snodeep,darkmysterytosewing.

Itisn'tan unsolvableriddle.Ifyouhaveintel-

ligence,onebrain,twoeyes,andtwo hands,you

canbecomeanexpert.Therearerules tofollow,

ofcourse,justasin anyprofession,andthat's

whythissmallbookis published.Andrulesare

madetobefollowedreligiously.Shortcuts and

makeshiftsarewhatgivetoso manyhome-made

dressestheirhome-madelook.

Inthefollowingpages,manyof thesketches

aregreatlymagnified,soyoucansee ataglance

exactlytheangleofa stitchorjustwhat thread

goesoveranother.Makeapracticeof usingthe

finestneedlesandthefinestcotton andsilkthat

yourfabricwillallow. Andkeeprunning-stitches

andhemming-stitchesveryfine—thatisatouch

ofParisthatyoucan getathome.

Beforeyouplungeintoanysewing—youmust

havetherightmentalattitude.Don'tbe tooam-

AVOGUEPATTERNISA FASHIONGUIDE

 YOUNEEDONLYFOL-

LOWINSTRUCTIONS

Layoutthepatternexact-

lyasthedirections advise

ItIsaverygod oideato

keeptheworkona table

Patterninstructionsoften

callforamachinefinish

SUCCESSindressmakingdependsonfollowinginstructions.

v^Readeveryword,studyeverypicture,andthencarryout

theletterofthe law.WhenyougetyourVoguepattern,you

knowthatitis absolutelyright,ifyoucarryout yourpartin

doingwhatVoguerecommends.Eachpatternisa perfectdesign

initself,balancedasto lineanddetail,sothat nochangesshould

bemade—theyspoiltheharmonyofVoguepatterns.First

ofallcomesthepattern envelope,whichhascompletein-

structionsfortheamountofmaterialyou shouldpurchasefor

yoursize,inanyparticular width.Besureto chooseoneofthe

fabricsrecommendedontheenvelopeandtobuythe exact

amountstated.Voguepatternsarelaidouteconomically.Notto

buyenoughmeansfailureanddisappointment.

Studythecuttingchartswith attention.Allthepiecesofthe

patternareillustrated,witheachnotch andperforationcare-

fullymarked.Ifthepatternoffersa choiceofdetails,discardany

piecesthatyouwon'trequire.The straightofthegoodsis indi-

cated,andyouwillfind thatallthenecessarymarksof identi-

ficationareclearlydesignatedoneachpiece ofthepattern.

Next,fitthepiecesof thepatterntoyou,pinningthemcarefully

togetherandtryingthemonto besurethatyoucan avoidalter-

ationsinthematerial.If youhavetoadjustthepattern,follow

thedirectionsthataregiven.A detailedstoryofalterationswill

befoundonpages54 to61,whichwill provehelpfultothe

womanwhodoesnothaveexactlyaverageproportions.

Now,youarereadytocut outyourmaterial.Onthechart, you

willseesketchesofthe waythepatternshouldbelaid onthe

materialyouareusing.Eachsize isshown,eachwidthof suit-

ablefabric,sothepossibilityof erringisleftentirelyto you.We

willhavenothingtodo withmistakes!

Pinoneachpieceof patternexactlyasitshouldbe, takingcare

thatthefabricis perfectlystraightandsmooth,withnowrinkles

orbulges.Markonthe fabricallthenotchesand perforations,

carefully,accordingtothepatternandinstructions.Whenyou

havecutouteachpiece andhavecheckedtobesure thatyou

haveeachone,youarereadyto sew.Besureto readthevarious

stepsindressmaking,whichareaugmentedbydiagrams.It is

notenoughjusttolook atthediagramorjust toreadthede-

scription.Itisthe twotogetherthatcompletethestory,'andboth

shouldbefollowedfromthefirst bastingtothelast pressing.

 Thenyouwillknowthat yourfrockismadeand finishedinthe

bestpossibleway,thatit containsexactlythelines,thedetails,

andthefinishthatare foundintheverysmartestof frocks.

ASEWINGMACHINEISA VERSATILEAID

 TOALLWHOSEW

Doyouknowallyour machinecando?

 Toooften,theattachmentsareneverthoroughlyunderstood,muchlesstried.

 Toooften,eventheimportantpointsofadjustingthe tension,selectingthe

propersizeofneedle,andregulatingthe lengthofthestitch areneverac-

quired.Didyoueverbasteon amachine?Setthegaugefor longstitchesand

allowplentyofthreadat theendofa seam.Notonlyisit aquickermethod

thanhand-basting,butitismore accurate,especiallyifyouusetheattach-

mentcalledtheclothguide tokeepanabsolutelyevenseamallowance.Do

yourealizethepossibilitiesofthe hemmingandtuckingattachmentsfor

fineandaccurategauging?Thetrick istorun theworkthroughwithan

unthreadedneedle.Thehemwillbeevenlyturned,and,in somefabrics,the

needlemarkswillshowfor aguide.Explorethatboxof attachments.

Revisitthedemonstrationroom

 Youwillfindit profitabletorevisitthedemonstrationroomsofyourpar-

ticularmakeofmachine.Ifit isanewmachine,it probablyhasthesew-

lightattached,but,ifnot,this isafixtureworth yourseeing.Itthrowsthe

lightonthework andpreventseye-strain.Yourmachinemaybeanelectric

model;ifnot,itis worthwhiletoinvest inoneofthenewest ones.Theregu-

larattachmentsthatcomewithyour machinemaybeaugmentedbyothers.

Ashirringplatemakesit practicabletoinsertawide pieceofmaterial.

It'sfuntoexperimenton themachine

Oneofthebest attachmentstouseisthebinder, whichusuallycomeswith

themachine.Itfoldsandstitches thebindinginoneoperation,andyou can

learntouseit fromthebookofinstructions.Thatis abookthatwill bearre-

reading.Didyouevertrydecorativecordingon themachine?Windthe

bobbinwithropesilk,loosenthe tensionoftheupperthread,and workwith

thefabricfacedown.Parallelrows maybecarriedacrosspleating.

•Youcandoamazingthings

withyourmachine,onceyoulearn

how.Youcanshirr innotimeat

all;youcanbindand tuckand

makerowsofdecorativestitch-

ing.It'snotonly agreattime-

saver,butapleasantindoorsport

•Ifyouhavea smalldaughter,

youshouldlearntoshirr byma-

chine,ifyoudon'tknow howal-

ready.Rowsofshirringforma

basisforthesmockingthatis so

popularwithwell-dressedlittle

girlsorgivea smock-likeeffect

EQUIPMENTFORHOMESEWING

GOODTOOLSARENECESSARY

A*Jamateurmayeasilybefrightenedby the

lengthofthelist oftoolsandappliances,

butshemaybeassuredthat successfulthings

havebeenmadewiththeequipmentreducedto

theverylowestterms:scissorsthat willcutclean

lines;anadequatecuttingsurface;aVogue

patternofsimpledesign;theiron;and thecon-

tentsofanordinarysewing basket.

Asshegainsin confidence,shecollectsother

helps.Sheassemblesthetoolsthatcertain fab-

ricscallfor,such asaneedle-boardforpile

fabrics.Sheselectsadress-formwhenshe de-

cidesonaVogue designthatcallsfordrapery

orcirculartreatment.Shegetsbuttonholescis-

sors(thatmaybeset withascrew toensure

uniformity)whensheessaysafrockwith a

numberofbuttonholes.Shewilleventually,per-

haps,attaintheidealsewingroom,with alltools.

Inthisroom,therewill bethemachineand

theelectriciron,their oningstand,andthe

sleeve-board,andafull-lengthmirror.There

willbeshearsfor cuttingandscissorsfor snip-

pingthreads(athreadshouldnever bebroken,

alwayscut);tapemeasureandyardstickof 

testedaccuracy,tailors'chalk,tracing-wheel,

emery,andwax.Thimbles,pins,andneedlesare

aforegoneconclusion,butshouldbecarefully

chosen.Aroughthimblewill roughenthethread,

poorpointsonpinswill

markdelicatefabrics.

Steelpinshavegoodpoints,but mayleaverust

marksifleftin theworkforanylengthof time.

Frenchchalk,fullers'earth,ora blockofmagne-

siashouldbeat hand,incaseofa spotofoil

fromthemachine.Coverthespotwell andleave

thepowderonfortwenty-fourhours.

Onceanamateurhasworkedon adress-form,

shewillneverbe satisfiedwithoutone.Thereare

adjustableformsthatmaybeadaptedtodifferent

figures.Verygoodproportionsmaynowbe

foundinnon-adjustableforms.Triflingvaria-

tionsmaybetakencareof bytheuseof aper-

fectlyfittedliningputover adress-formthatis

slightlyundersizeandpaddedoutwith layers

ofwaddingorfabric.In workingonaskirt,have

thedress-formliftedtoatable orstand;donot

wearyyourselfwithstooping.Andbe surethat

thereisspacefor youtostandbackandsurvey

theworkfromtimeto time.Thereisusuallya

certainamountofworkthatcan bedonebetter

withthedresson aform,suchastacking aloose

paneloroverlay.Thelightnessoftouch soessen-

tialtosuccessfulworkis

moreeasilyacquired

whenyouareworkingon thefigureratherthan

onaflatsurface.Let thepanelsordraperyfall

naturally—beonyourguardagainstdragging

orstrainingoranytouch ofheavy-handedness.

 Thedifferencebetweencompletesuccessand

near-successmayliemerelyinthehandling of 

thefabric,afteritis

cut.

Inadditiontothe dress-form,asleeveformmay

beprepared,cutfrommuslinby afittedsleeve

pattern,stitched,andfilledwithshreddedpaper

orwithcurledhair. Thismaybepinnedto the

dress-form,butneednotbepermanentlyat-

tached.Itmaybein yourwaywhenyouare

adjustingaskirtif noteasilydetachable.

 Theequipmentofthesewingroommayinclude

NORULESBUTVOGUE'SRULES

INTHECUTORIN THEDESIGN,IN

FITORINTREATMENTOFFABRIC

 TASHIONnewsisto begainedfromeverypat-

IternthatVogue cutsandfromeveryillustra-

tionofacostumethat Voguepublishes.

Generalizationsmadeyesterdaywillnotfitto-

morrow'sfashions.Surprisesarefrequentlytobe

met.Forinstance,finelytuckedincrustationsmay

beusedona printedchiffonfrock—ifthatisan

ideaofthemoment.Ofcourse,the workscarcely

showsintheprint—butthe silhouetteisaffected.

 Thestudentofdressmakingshouldalsobea stu-

dentoffashion.Sheshouldearlylearn themain

divisionsoftextiles—woolandsilk,cottonand

linen,andthesyntheticfibres,Celanese,Bemberg,

andrayon.Shewillfrequentlybe confrontedwith

statementsthatonlycertainfabrics"go"with

others,while,atthemomentthatshe haslearned

onerulebyheart,Paris andallitscreators of 

fashionmaybebreakingthatruleto'makea new

one.Nothingispermanentbutgoodtaste.

Again,fashionmaydictatethatthesmartestof 

frocksbemadeofthick-lookingbasket-weavesor

diagonalsandthatthemostimportantcoatsbe

carriedoutinwools ofgossamerfineness—thus

completelyreversingtheusualruleofthick ma-

terialsforout-of-doorandgeneralsportswear.

Meshweavesmaybeallthe rageinacertain

season,and,forthwith,themostunexpectedfab-

ricsappear.Iftheyare notactuallyknitted,they

managetohavealltheappearanceof beingso.

Anotherrecurrentnoteinthe modeistheuseof 

all-overlacesforentirefrocksand ensembles.

Itmaybethe newestnoteoftheseasonto

treatawoolfrockexactlyas onewouldasilk one

—asoft"dressmaker"modelquitewithoutthe

CHARACTERISTIC SOFFABRICS

QUALITYANDTEXTURESTOCONSIDER

WHENYOUAREBUYINGMATERIALS

WELL-CHOSENmaterialisessentialtoa

successfulfrock.Ifyourfirstthought isof 

amodelthatyouwould liketocopy,yoursecond

thoughtmustbeofan appropriatefabric.Ifyour

firstthoughtisof thefabricthatyouprefer,your

secondthoughtmustbeofa modeladaptedto

thecharacteristicsofthatfabric.Keep yourself 

postedbyreadingthefabricarticles whichap-

pearfromtimetotime inVogueandin Vogue

patternperiodicals.

Besuretoread thefashionreportsandstudy

thedescriptionsofmodelgownsunderthe

sketchesineachissueof Vogue.Ifanovelty

fabricraisesanyquestionin yourmind,donot

buyituntilyou havecheckedupitscorrectness

inVogue.Ifyouwish touseaVogue modelfor

anunfamiliarfabric,consulttheexpertin the

Voguedepartmentatyourfavouriteshop.There

willbea largechoiceofmodelsforeach and

everysmartmaterial,andtheproperlayoutchart

fortheindividualsizeand widthofthefabric.

Beonyourguardagainst acceptingrulesofyes-

terdayforthemodeofto-day.Nowadays,many

barriersareremoved,manyinhibitionsforgotten,

andthefashionfieldis largerthaneverbefore.It

usedtobesaid thataparticularfabricwas the

onlyonesuitedtoa particulartypeofmodel—

now,often,theonlyruleis that,inchoosinga

certainmodelforacertain fabric,youmustcon-

siderthecharacteristicsofthat fabric.Forin-

stance;isthegoodssheer orsemi-sheer?Itmay

beapiquantchoiceof themodetousesheer

goodsforaseveretailoredfrock,setting aside

alloldinhibitions.Soyou maychooseatailored

10

IMPORTANTPOINTSTOREMEMBER

VOGUESHOWSTHEWAYTO

SUCCESSFORTHEBEGINNER

waitsupontheveriesttyro indress-

Omaking,ifafew all-importantpointsare

borneinmind.Cutis thethinginany model,

andthefirstpoint toberememberedistoretain

everylineoftheoriginal modelfromwhichthe

patternwascut.In otherwords,onemustgive

punctiliousattentiontothechartand tothegrain

ofthegoods.Abeginnerhas beenknownto

wonderwhyasleevetwists onthearm,whya

skirthangsawry,withoutrealizingthat shehas

disregardedthelineofperforationsthatindi-

catesthestraightofthe goodsonthepattern.

Watchthegrainofthe goods!

Abeginnerhasbeenknownto bepuzzledby

thesetofa shoulder,theshapingofanarmhole,

notrealizingthatshehas recklesslycutaway

thesuperfluousfabricwhentheshoulderseam

didnotcomeouteven.As amatteroffact,the

well-cutoriginalmodelhadjustthe rightamount

ofeasewheretheback wasjoinedtothefront,

nomoreandnoless thanrequiredtogivethe

rightset.Insteadofalteringthe lineofthearm-

holebyill-inspiredcutting,sheshould have

rippedtheshoulderseamverycarefully,snip-

pingthethreadsatintervalsto avoidpulling

thefabric,andthenrebastedthe seamwiththe

backsectionheldtowardsher.You mustretain

thecorrectlinesin basting!

Manyabeginnerhasbeenknownto makethe

fatalerrorofdisregardingVogue'sdirections

aboutthewidthofthe seams—takingaseam

eithermuchnarrowerormuch widerthanindi-

cated.Ill-fittingresultsarecertainto follow.

II

EXPERTNESSINCUTTINGOUTADRESS

USESHARPSHEARSAND

KEEPANEVENMOTION

KEEN,trueshearsarerequisitesin thesuccessful

cuttingoutofagarment,anda perfectlyflat

solidsurfaceisequallyimportant.Amateurdress-

makershavebeenknowntoattemptcuttingonthe

yieldingsurfaceofabedor sofaorona tableso

smallthatthefabricslippedunder theshears.If 

makeshiftsarenecessary,laycleanpaperonthefloor

andspreadthefabricthere.Keepthe materialper-

fectlyflat,withselvagesparallel.Theplacingofthe

sectionsofthepatternonthe fabricisalsoimportant.

Oneshouldfollowthelayoutchartverycarefully.

Whenthechartindicatesthatasectionof apattern

istobe placedonafold,takecareto pinthrough

boththicknessesoffabric.

Ifoneusesthe dining-table,thesurfaceshouldbepro-

tectedwithsheetsofpaper,becausetheshearsshould

slidealongthesurface,withthefabriclifted aslit-

tleaspossible.It isimportanttokeepaneven mo-

tionwhilecuttingandtoavoid ajerkyseriesofsnips.

Anditisstill

moreimportantnottodeviatefromthe

pattern.Aprofessionaldressmakeralwayscutswith

themiddleoftheblades.The handofaprofessional

issketched,withshearsinthe rightposition.One

shouldalwaysbesurethatthe bladesaresharp.

 Thethirdsketchshowsthetrickof bastingdownthe

centrefrontandbackofa frockorblouseimmedi-

atelyaftercuttingandbeforeunfoldingthematerial.

Usecolouredthreadforthispurposeand takeloose

bastingstitches.Blueoryellowthreadisthe best

choice.Youwillfindneithercolourwillcrock.

Neverstarttoworkuponserge,cloth,or twillunless

ithasbeenspongedand shrunk.Frenchdressmakers

shrinkwoolcrepesonceinhotand onceincoldwater

12

POINTSONTHEPRESSING,STEAMING,

5A

Heatandmoistureaffectmostfabrics.

Somebecomelimp,somerigid,when

dampened;whileothers,likesome

metallictissue,canstandlittleheat.

 Testonwastescrapsoffabric.

Mostwoolfabricsmustbeshrunkbe-

forecutting.Haveatailordo thisif 

possible.Cliptheselvages,laythefab-

ricfullwidthandfacedownon atable,

andcoverwithadampcloth.Rollto-

getherandletstandovernight;then

openandpressdryon thebackofthe

fabric.Pressingisnotironing.Liftthe

iron,ratherthanrunit alongthesur-

face.Allcreasesshouldbepressedout

attheverybeginning.Thefoldin the

centreofdouble-widthfabricisnotac-

curateenoughforexpertcutting.Wool

crepesneedhotandcoldshrinking.

Linensandcottonsshrinkinwashing,

but,withsomeweaves,itisimpos-

sibletoshrinkthe materialbeforecut-

ting.Ascrapofthe fabricshouldbe

testedforshrinkage.

Whitelinensandcottonsmaybecov-

eredwithcoldwaterandleft tosoak

forseveralhours.Donotwring them

out,butallowthemtodrip overaclean

lineuntiltheyare thoroughlydry.

SEVERALUSEFULHINTS

Guardagainstscorching.Lessheatis

neededforsilkandrayonthan for

wool.Iron-boardandpressclothsmust

befreefromwaxorsizing.

13

SPONGING,ANDSHRINKINGOFFABRICS

 TOHOMEDRESSMAKERS

Onfabricswitha pile,donotpresstoo

heavily,asitflattensthesurfaces.If 

ashineiscaused onwoollengoodsor

high-pilefabrics,steamingishelpful.

Layawetcloth overtherightsideof 

fabric,holdamoderatelyhotiron

lightlyonit,thenli fttheclothquickly

andraisethepile withawhisk-brush.

Forseamsinpilefabrics thatdonot

bearpressing,ahotiron isplacedon

end,andadampcloth isplacedoverit

(6A).Theseamisopenedwith the

fingersandiscarriedback andforth

overthesteamingcloth,seamsidein

|()B).Holdfabric:firmly,hutnot tightly.

Velvetfrequentlybecomesfinger-

marked.Thepilecanberaised by

carryingthefabricbackand forth,pile

sideout,overthesteamingcloth (7).

10

6A

6B

Aheavilypaddedsleeve-boardisa

sewing-roomnecessity(8).Itshould

bepaddedwithwaddingorwithlayers

offlannelbeforecoveringwithunsized

muslin.Useitforshort seams.

Afterstitchingasleevein, anyfulness

atthetopshouldbe shrunkoutwitha

dampenedclothifpressingwool,and

adryclothif forsilk.Onlythepoint

oftheironis used.Acushionmadeof 

twoovalsectionsofmuslinfilled with

waddingisusedasa padwhenpress-

ingthetopof asleeve(9),alsofor

14

ESSENTIALPOINTS

12

13

IS

16

aboutbastingandmarking

Intheprofessionalmanner

Foruniformmarkingsonwoollenfabrics,

usetailors'tacks(11).Takestitches

throughbothlayersofgoods,drawinto

loops,separatethefabric,andsnipthe

threads,leavingone-halfineachsection.

Basteseamswitheven-lengthstitcheswhen

thereisanystrain (12).Startwithaback-

stitchinsteadofaknot.Followthe seam

allowanceaccurately .Pinatcloseintervals.

Bastingmaybemademoresecurewithan

occasionalback-stitc h(13).Cut,donot pull

thestitcheswhentheyarereadyto remove.

Wherefirmnessisrequired,asin tailored

collars,bastethelayerstogetherwithdiag-

onalstitches(14),workingfromtheupper

leftdowninonerow,reversingin thenext.

Runatemporarybastingalongtheneck-

lineandateachshoulder(15), immediate-

lyaftercutting,keepingfabricfromstretch-

ing.Onsheerfabrics,usemachine-stitch.

Wherethereisnostrain onbasting,alter-

natelongandshortstitches(16).

Hereisauseful temporarystitch(17)that

maybeusedanyplacewherethe fabricis

likelytoslip,asi nthefacingofa collar.

Abiasedgeshouldbe bastedtemporarilyto

anarrowtape(18),preventingthegoods

fromstretchinginthehandling.Becareful

nottostretchit whileitisbeing sewed.

IS

IMPORTANTSTITCH ES

areshownonthispage

ingreatlyenlargedsketches

Running-stitchesshouldbeofuniformsize

onbothsides(19).Takethree orfoureven

stitchesonneedlebeforepullingthread.

SketchNo.20showsthefirststitch inback-

stitching.Aftertheneedleisdrawnthrough,

itiscarriedbackand putinthegoods

wherethethreadhasgonein thefabric.

Sketch21showshowtobasteon theright

sidewhenyouarematchingstripes,plaids,

etc.Creasetheseamallowanceontheupper

sectionandslip-stitchittothe undersection.

Aquickwaytoovercastona pliablefabric

(sketch22)istotake severalstitchesat

once,beforepullingtheneedlethrough.

Overcasting(sketch23)maybedonefrom

lefttoright,or righttoleft,overboth edges

ofaclosedseam,oron eachedgeofaseam

thathasbeenpressedflatopen.

Fineworkmanshipshowsinrollingand

whippingtheedgesofallsheer fabrics

(seesketch24).Workfromeithersideor

ineitherdirection.Keepthestitcheseven.

Catch-stitch(sketch25)mayfinishanedge

orholdahem.Work ineitherdirection,

butkeepanevenslant.

Blanket-stitch(sketch26)maybeworked

fromlefttoright orfromrighttoleft.

Practicekeepsthepurlexactlyontheedge.

25

26

16

HEMMINC-STITCH ESANDHEMS

accordingtomaterial

 Toensureanevenhem,makea cardboardgauge

(sketch27)orcreasewith machine-hemmin gattach-

ment.Alwayscutoneedgeof thegaugeata rightangle.

Seambinding(28)maybeused tofinishahem.Stitch

bindingtorawedgebefore turning.Takestitches

throughbinding,catchingupmerelyathread ortwo.

Apracticalfinishfor aheminlight, butnottransparent,

fabricisshownin sketch29.Machine-stitchthecrease

beforeturning,keepingthetensionveryeven.Theedge

ofahemmaybe boundbeforeturning(30),withseam

bindingornarrowbiasstrip oflining.Hemthrough

bindingonly,keepingstitchesinvisible.

Sketch31showsaquick methodofhemmingwithfairly

longstitchesonwrongside. Keepneedleatevenslant.

 Tohemmetallictissuesandsheer materials(32)have

fabricmachine-hemstitched,cuttoapicotedge,and hem.

Sketch33showsascalloped hem,madebytakingaseries

ofbuttonhole-stitches,keepingthreadinsidethehem.

 Torollhem—sketch34—graspedgeinbothhands,hold-

ingittaut,then withthumbandindexfingerof lefthand

rolledgetowardyouand under.Slideneedleinroll,

catchingoutsidethreads.Biasorshapededges maybe

machinehemstitchedbeforerolling.

Foranalmostinvisiblehem(35),crease andbasteslight

distancefromedge,keepingstitchesinsidethecrease.

Pinkingisagoodfinish forahemin heavyfabrics.Sketch

36showshowto finish,bycatch-stitchingitinto place.

31

17

VARIOUSTREATMENTSOFHEMS

recommendedbyVogue

Forfalsebinding(37Aand B)allowfourtimeswidth

desired.Maketuckonwrongside,crease-edge,finish.

Curvedhems(38)laidin tinydartswillkeepflat. After

basting,ahotironwill shrinkoutsomeofthe fulness.

Sketch39showsgatherededgeof curvedhemonsilk.

Circularskirtsmustbehung tosagbeforehemming.

Sketch40showsgatherededgeof curvedhemonwool.

 Thefulnessisthenshrunkand thebindingstitched.

Averynarrowhem(sketch41) isapopularfinish for

edges.Keepstitchesveryfine,andrathertight. Tohem

arectangle,creasehem,cuta trianglefromcorner

(42A),leavingnarrowseamallowance.Overhandor

slip-stitchthediagonalseamatthe corner(sketch42B).

Sketches43Aand43Bshow anotherwaytohema rec-

tangle.Creasehem,cutawayfabricinsidefold, leave

narrowseamallowance,overhandhem,slipstitchend.

Sketch44showshand-rolledhem,machine-hemstitched

andpicotedbeforerolling.Forrollingsee sketch34.

Doublefalsebindingforcurvedor straightedges(45A

and45B)—needsfivetimeswidthallowance.Stitchraw

edgetotuckonwrong side,fold,andfinish.

Sketch46isan edge-stitchedhem,picotedbeforeturning.

Anedge-stitchedhemmayhaverawedgeturned (47).

Sketch48isan edge-stitchedhemwithsilkseambinding

laidhalfwayovertheraw edgeandthenstitcheddown.

Aslip-stitchedhemmaybefinished ontherightside on

anystraightedgewherewrongside willnotshow.Sketch

49Ashowsslashingandturning;49B showsthefinish.

-~L-,.tS?

%f',,

42B

42A

18

SEAMSANDSEAMFINISHING

forexpertresults

^^

51

54

Stitchseamsaccurately(50).Snipbasting

threadstoremoveorwhenstitchinglong

seam.Rawedgesmaybeleftunderlining.

Onsheervelvet,stitchwiththepile,not

againstit.Onheavycrepeorvelveteen,

openseamandovercastedges(51).Ifflat

seamisnotessential,overcastedgesto-

gether.TomakeaFrenchseam(sketch52),

therightsideis seamedclosetotheedge,

trimmed,turned,andwrongsidestitched.

Onfinelingerieorbabyclothes(sketch

53),theseamissewedby hand,oneraw

edgeistrimmed,thentheother creased,

foldedonce,andhemmedthroughstitching.

Onveryfirmfabrics,edgesofseamsmay

bepinked(sketch54)topreventravelling.

Afterpinking,openseamandpress.

Inseamsofan unlinedcoat(sketch55),

eachrawedgeisboundseparatelywithseam

bindingorbiasstrips madeofliningfabric.

Inplaceofa Frenchseamwhenfabricis

noteasilyhandled,turninboth edgesface

tofaceandjoinby hand(sketch56).

Sketch57showsaseamopenedout,raw

edgeturnedback,andstitchedclosetoedge.

Sketch58showsedge-stitchedseam.Turn

underseamallowance,bastefabricas

shown,andstitchveryclosetoedge.

Afirmandalmostinvisiblefinish for

sheerfabricormetallictissuesis madeby

machine-stitchingseam,thentrimming,

rolling,andwhippingtheedges(sketch59).

19

SEAMSACCORDINGTOFABRICS

asseenbyVogue

Hemmedseamsmaybefolded,stitched,

andfinishedina singleoperationbyusing

themachinehemmer—asshowninsketch

60.Thisisa quickmethodforunderwear

hems.Slotseamsontailoredgarments

(sketch61)arebasted,thenunderlaid

withabandof fabric.Thenstitcheachside

andremovebasting.

Sketch62showsalapped seam,resembling

atuck.Seamallowanceisincreasedby the

depthofoverlappingportionononeedge.

Itmaybemachine-stitchedorhand-sewed.

Insettingentre-deuxorbeadingintoa

seam(sketch63),theedgesofthe fabric

arerolledandwhippedwith finestitches.

Onsheerfabric,wherethere isnostrain

ontheseam,bastetheseamwith threadto

match,haveitmachine-hemstitched,then

cliptheedgescloselyas showninsketch64.

Onstraightjoiningswith nostrain,but

notoncurvedseams,bastetheseam on

therightside,as showninsketch65,and

trimitafterit ismachine-hemstitched.

Seamsonshirts,smocks,orhousedresses

maybefinishedbyclippingone rawedge

afterstitching,bastingtheotheroverit,

andstitchingfromrightside (sketch66).

Sketch67showsthehand-finishedversion

oftheseamshownby sketch66.Itis

stitched,clippedononeedge,foldedover

andhemmed.Usedonflannelgarments.

67

66

20

IMPORTANTPOINTSINMAKINGSEAMS

professionalrulestofollowto

ensureflatandunpuckeredseams

 Theseamofakimonosleevemustbe

slashedatthecurvein ordertoprevent

thefabricfromdrawingunderthe arm.

SketchNo.68illustratesthecorrect man-

ner.Thentheedgesofthe seamandthe

slashesshouldbeovercast.

Ifonesectionof aseamneedstobe eased

insewingit toanother,thefullsideis

kept

towardsoneandthenotchesplaced to-

gether(69).Useplentyofpins. Notches

arenecessaryontheoutercurve ofa

curvedseam,andslashesontheinner

curve,asshowninthe seamillustratedby

sketch70.

Ifoneseamcrossesanother—asshownby

sketch71—thefirstonetobe stitchedmust

alwaysbeopenedandpressedbeforejoin-

ingthecrossedseam;otherwise,a flat

smoothseamcannotbemanaged.

Ifaplainfabric isseamedtoafabric with

apile—asyouseein illustration72—,one

shouldalwayskeepthepileside upwhile

oneisworkingoni t.Injoininga bias

piecetoastraight pieceofmaterial,the

biassideshouldinvariablybeheld towards

one.Thecorrectmannerisshown clearly

intheillustrationat footofthepage(73).

71

72

73

21

FINISHINGDARTSANDSLASHES

variouswaysofhandlingdartsand

slashestosecureatailored effect

 Tomakeaperfectdart,avoida sudden

angleattheend.Stitch towardsthepoint,

almostparallelwiththefold attheend—

asshownby74.Fastenoff immediately.

Infirmfabrics,a dartmaybesplitand

pressedopen—asshownbysketch75.This

securesgreaterflatness.Finishrawedges

byovercastingorbinding.

Ifthematerialis tobepleatedorgath-

eredintoaslash,keepthe goodsplainfor

theseamallowanceandpinin positionbe-

forebasting.Seesketch76.

Fulnessgatheredtoaslashmaybe fin-

ishedwithafold ofthegoodsstitchedat the

sametimeandblind-stitchedatthe top—

asshownbyillustration77. Dartsmaybe

workedoverwithsatinstitch (78)togive

adecorativefinish.

Sketch79showsdartsstitched onthe

rightsidetogive theeffectoftucks.Finish

onanevenline,carry thethreadtothe

wrongside,andfastenoffat once.Theseare

usedatbackofneck orfrontofshoulder.

Sketch80isan enlargedviewofmachine-

stitchingknottedonthewrongside. Allow

enoughthreadtoknotbeforetakingthe

materialfromthemachine.Finishatonce.

74

f 

76

77

22

 THEIMPORTANCEOFATRUEBIAS

**'**

8IA

SIC

82

y/X

83

84

85

methodsofftreatment

Beforecuttingabiasband,onemusthave

aperfectlystraightedgeacrossthefab-

ric.Ifthefabricdoes nottearwell,cuton

adrawnthreadasshownin 81A.The

secondstepincuttingatrue biasistofold

thestraightendofthe fabricandthesel-

vagetogether,asshownin81B,to forma

diagonalthatisatrue bias.Thethirdstep

incuttingbiasbandsor bindings(81C)

istocutexactlyon thediagonalandrule

offbandsinthewidth desired,following

seamangleaccurately.

Biasbandsareseamedonthe straightof 

thegoods,eithercrosstocrossor length

tolength,asshownbysketch82. Corners

areclippedafterstitching,notbefore.

Sketch83showsrightandwrongwayto

 joinbiasbandandthe unhappyresultsif 

thecrossofthegoods isseamedtothe

straightbyanamateur.

Whenfabricshavediagonalribs(see

84),jointhebias bandssothattheribs all

gointhesame direction.

Biasfacingswillshapethemselvestofit

slightcurves.Afterstitching,trimthe

rawedgesandslashtheseam atthecurve,

thenhemfacinginplace,asshownin 85.

23

BIASBINDINGSANDFACINGS

andhowtoapplythem

 Tobindvelvet,heavycrepe,andother

heavysilks,useasinglebinding (87).

 Tobindsheerandsemi-sheerfabrics,use

doublebindingasnarrowascanbe han-

dled(seesketch88).Cutbiasfour times

thefinishedwidthplusseamallowance.

Pipingmayformfacingofanydepth

(89).Toinsertpipingin aseam,seesketch

90.Pipingiscuton bias,twicewidthde-

sired,plustheseamallowance.

Machinebinding(sketch91)canbedone

withoutbasting,byusingbindingattach-

ment.Ready-crease dbiascomesinvarious

widthsandcolours,insilkand cotton.

Basteinch-widebiasstriptofabric,right

sidefacing(92A).Stitch,trimseam,roll

bindingcloselyoverseam,andhemalong

thestitching.Seesketch92B.

 Tobindscallopededge(93)stitchtrue

biasbindingwithrightside againstright

offabric.Easebindingoverscallops.Hem,

andpleatateachindentation.Usedouble

bindingiffabricissheer.

 TofaceV-shapedorsquareopening

(94Aand94B),takeupdiagonalseamat

extremepoint.Extrafabricistrimmedbe-

forefacingisturnedandblind-hemmed.

 Tofacesquarecorner(95AandB)stitch

straight(notbias)bandflat,take upseam

atcornerindiagonal,thentrim andturn.

90

91

95B

24

BANDSANDINSERTS

thatarecorded,straight,orcuton thebias

97

Bandscutstraightoracrossthegoods maybejoinedin

eitherofthewaysshownin sketches96and97toincrease

thelengthorwidthof astraightsection.Becarefultoallow

twicethewidthoftheextensionfacingwanted,plusan

adequateallowancefortheseam.

 Toinsertaband (98),basteitonthe rightsideofthe ma-

terialandslip-stitchitbeforecuttingawaythe foundation.

Notchthecorners,opentheseams,andpressthe fabric.An

appliedbandmaybestitchedonthe machine(99);adouble

foldmayfirstbecaughtwith acatch-stitch(100)and,after

that,slip-stitched,inposition.

 Thestitchesthatfastenbandsoftrimmingto afabric

needn'tbeseen.Thebandsarestitchedon theinside,then

turnedinsideout,andtheinvisible applicationismadepos-

siblebyslip-stitches.Abandthatis tobeappliedtuckfash-

ionhastheseamat oneedge(101).Ifheldat bothedges,

theseamisbeneath(102).

 This(sketch103)isthe methodusedforapplyingtrim-

mingbandswithslip-stitches.Thequickestandeasiestwayis

tofoldthefabricat theedgeoftheband, afterbastingthem

together,andthensewalongtheedgeof thetwofolds.Hold

thefabricasiffor whipping.

 Toshirraband withacordin eachedge,usearunning-

stitchtoholdthecord (sketch104).Asyousew,shirrthe

fabricbypushingitback.Shapeit bydrawingthecord

andthreadontheinner sidemorecloselythanitis drawn

ontheoutersideof theband.

 Toturninsideout anarrow,double,trimmingband,a

girdle,orascarf,sewa threadedbodkintooneend(105A),

carrythebodkinthroughthetubeof fabric,andturnitright

sideoutbypullingthe tube(105B).Guardagainsttwisting

theseam.Slip-stitchtheends(105C).Thenpressthoroughly.

I05A

25

CORDINGANDPIPING

afewdiversifiedmethodsofapplication

 Tosewstraightorbias fabricoveracord,usea close

running-stitch(106).Thethickerthefabric,theheavier

thecord.Forpiping,thecordis joinedtotherest ofthe

materialbystitchingitlikea bindingorbyslip-stitch-

ingitfromthe rightside(107).Trimone edgeofthe

pipingtoreducethebulkat thebackandcatch-stitch

itorleaveit free.

Cordpipingmaybeseti ntoaseam(108).Aftersewing

thefabricoverthecord,thefour edgesareheldto-

getherandsewedwitharunning-stitch.

Whencoveringacablecord,sewthecordand thebias-

cutfabrictemporarilytoafinetape (109A).Thefabricis

thenstitchedsoasto encasethetape(109B).Thetapeis

pulledgentlythroughfromtheinsideand thematerialwork-

edoverthecord(109C).Guardagainsttwisting theseam.

Coveredloops(110)usedinplaceof buttonholesmaybe

sewedseparatelytoextendbeyondtheedgesofa closing.

Raveloutthecordatthe end,forflatness,aftersewingitto

thefabric.Anothermethod(111)isto sewthecord,onthe

inside,tothefabric,formingaseries ofloops.

Loopsoffabric-covered-c ordmaybemadewiththe ends

turnedininvisibly(112,113).Theyare usedtoholdbelts

thattieonthe insideorasfrog-likefasteners.Whenthereis

nostrainonthe loops,thecordmaybeomitted.Instead,

leaveaseamallowancetwiceaswideasthe stitchedpor-

tion.Thisadditionalmaterialwillserveas afilling.Use

fineandwell-matchedsilkorcottoninattachingthe loops.

III

107

108

I09C

112

26

GATHERINGANDSHIRRING

115

intheapprovedVoguemanner

Gatheringisdonewithsmall running-

stitchesandasinglethread severalinches

overrequiredlength—asshowninsketch

114.Back-stitchatstart,keepstitcheseven,

andkeepneedleingoods,slippingoff 

stitches.Runtworowsfor finework.

 Tofinish,windthreadaroundpin infigure-

of-eightfashion,asshowninsketch115.

 Tojoinagatheredsection toaplainone,

divideeachsectionequallyandpin before

basting.Rethreadgatheringthreadand

fastenoffsecurely.

Sketch116showsacardboardgaugefor

rowsofshirring,with notchesatoneside.

Ineachrow,stitches mustbetakenexactly

inlinewith precedingrow.Theyshouldbe

longontheinside,short ontheoutside.

Forshirredtucks—sketch117—measure

andfoldasindicatedon page28.Sewwith

running-stitch,drawingupfabric.Shirred

tucksmayalsobemachine-stitchedand

gatheredbydrawingupthebobbin thread.

 Tomakecordedshirring(118),basteas

forcordedtucking,drawingupmaterialas

youcovercord.Then,redistributefulness

sothatthereis aninchortwo ofplainfab-

ricasyoucover thenextcord.Guard

againstcatchingthethreadintothe cord.

 Tomachine-stitchshirring(119),haveless

tensiononupperthreadthanon bobbin

thread.Afterstitching,secureoneendby

knottingorfasteningoff,thengather.

117

27

Forfinestwork,drawthreadsat evenin-

tervalsandrunthegatheringthreadsi nthe

drawnspaces,pickingupa fewthreadson-

ly—asinsketch120.Thisis goodforchif-

fon,sheercrepe,finecotton,andlinen.

 Togatherwitha heading(sketch121),

turnahemas deepasyouwish,plus the

seamallowance.Allowforthisamount

whencutting.Rungathering-threads

throughboththicknessesoffabricand

thendrawup.

Ashirredvolant(sketch122) thatisto

beappliedontheright sideofafrockmay

bemachine-hemstitchedandthehemstitch-

ingcutintoa picotedgebeforebeing

gathered.Thisisgoodforvelvet.

Sketch123showsaquick waytoworkover

ashirredsurface.(Forrealsmocking,see

page47.)Withembroiderysilk,cotton,

orwool,workfromleft torightovershir-

ring.Keepthethreadbelowthe needle

forthefirststitch, aboveforthesecond.

Ashirredtrimmingbandmaybe madedou-

ble,asshownby124, inchiffon,orsingle,

withafrayededgein taffeta.Carrythread

zigzagacrossband,thendrawup sothread

isstraightincentre andedgeisscalloped.

Anotherwayoftreatingan appliedruffle

orvolantisto rollandwhipedges,using

perfectlymatchedthread,andpullupthe

whippingthreadtofulnessrequired(125).

 Thisisforlace, net,andallsheerfabrics.

».M.4i«Kz
•fllllMMMIWnil

28

DETAILSTOKNOWABOUTTUCKING

corded,curved,scalloped,orplain

129

Makeacardboardgaugefortucks(126).Guardagainstcut-

tingthenotcharrow-shaped.Onesideshouldbestraight

tomarkby.Tucksmaybegaugedalso byatuckerattach-

mentforthemachine.

Cordedtucksmaybemadeineitherof twoways,asshown

insketch127.Stitchallthe tucks,thenruninthe cord

sewedtoathreadedbodkin,orhold thecordinplacein-

sidethefoldwhilesewing.

Whenadesigncallsfor tuckstakenonthewrongsideof the

fabric,pressedalmosttoinvisibilityonther ight,keep

theminonedirection,andfastenon anevenline(128).

Ahand-runtuckina softfabricmaybegivenascalloped

edge(129)byback-stitchingatregularintervalsandcarry-

ingthethreadoverthe tuck,drawingitclose.

Fortucksonacircularsection(130),fold byagauge,asfor

straighttucks,runningagatheringthreadonthe under-

side.Inbasting,distributethefulness evenly.

Cross-tucking(131)maybedoneonfabricbeforeanycut-

tingout.Pressallthe tucksinonedirectionbeforebeginning

thecrosswisetucks.Themachinetuckersavestime.

Inpilefabrics,tinytucksgive theeffectofcording(132).

 Theworkisdonebeforethe cuttingandpressedonasoft

padtokeepit fromflattening.

Curvedlinesmaybemadewiththe finestpintucks(133),

stitchedasclosetothefold aspossible.Thesearefirst

marked,thencarefullybasted,stitched,andfinallypressed.

130

29

NECESSARYINFOR MATIONABOUTPLEA TS

methodsoflayingandbasting

Don'ttrytosavematerialby makingshallowpleatsthat

willnothangwell.Bringthe edgeofthefoldaccurately

tothelineof thetailors'tacksmarkingthedepth(134).

Basteaboxpleatthroughthreethicknessesoffabric (135).

 Tailors'tacksthenshouldbepulledout. Ifthebasting

threadsmarkthematerial,press,aftertheyareout, witha

dampcloth.

Aninvertedboxpleatasa seamshouldhavetheseamatits

edge(136).Donotpress theseamopeninthe pleat,ex-

ceptatthehem.Slip-stitchthepleat atthetop.

Pleatsreleasedbelowmachine-stitching(137)arefolded

andbastedandmarkedwherethestitchingends.The threads

arefastenedoffimmediatelyafterstitchingeachpleat.

Inarrangingagroupof pleats,keepthemeven,retaining

thedepthofeachpleat(138).One shouldalwaysbaste

firmlybeforepressingthepleatsin place.

Machinepleats(139)arebastedtohold theinnerpartsin

position.Stitchthrougheachpleat,withanoccasional

back-stitch,forfirmness.Keeptheworkonatable.

 Thefoldofa sidepleatata seam(140)mustbeparallel

fortheseamtoretain thecreaseofthepleat.Guard against

displacingtheseaminthepressing ofit.

Stitchinginrowsacrosspleats(141)maybe donewitha

finecordorwithheavysilk inthebobbinofthe machine,

workingfromtheback.Alwaysbesurethepleatsare

bastedflatandinposition beforeattemptingtostitchthem.

134

140

139

30

EXPLAININGTHESETTINC-INOFASLEEVE

matchnotchescarefully

 Tomakeasuccessofsettingin asleeve,holdit

towardyouwhileworking.Keepmarksfrom

doubleperforationsonpatterninlinewith shoul-

derseamandmatchnotchestoretainthe proper

amountofease.Runagatheringthreadif you

like.Pinfreelybeforebasting.Trimseamsto

three-eighthsofaninchafterstitchingsleeve

(142AtoC).Pressovera tailors'cushion.

 Thesectionsofasleeveshouldbe joinedbefore

seaming(143AandB).A two-piececoatsleeve

isoftencutwithan extensionforbuttons(144A

andB).Followthepatternforthe exactnessof 

cutthatatailoredsleeverequires.

Aclassictreatmentofasleeveat thewristis

toleavetheseamopena fewinchesandfinish

withafacingandsnapfasteners(145).Follow

thepatternchartforindividualtreatment.

One-seamsleevesrequireeaseattheelbow.The

patternmaycallforfulnesslaid indarts(146)

orforeasebetweennotches(147).Holdthe side

thatistobe easedtowardyouwhilebastingand

donotneglecttomatchthe notchesaccurately.

I43B

144A

31

POINTSONVARIOUSTYPESOFSLEEVES

witheffectivefinishings

Stepsinfinishinga sleevewithaslashedopen-

ingandaturned-backcuffareshownin 148Ato

D.Theseamofa raglansleeverequiresslashing

onthecurve.Itmaybe openedout,asshownin

149A,oredge-stitched,asin149B.

Donotoverfitadrop-shouldersleeve(150).A

kimonosleevemayrequireagussetjoinedto

slashesunderthearm(151).Ribbonseambind-

ingmayfinishtheopeningof asleeveatthe

wrist(152AandB).It shouldbecarefully

matchedincolour,andthesnapfastenersshould

besmallinsize.

Leavetheseamofanepauletsleeveopenuntil

shouldersarefinished.Slashcurvesandcorners

(153AandB).Afullsleeve maybeheldinat

thewristwithsmocking(154)orfinished with

atiecuff(155).

Atailoredshirtsleeveis stitchedinaflatfell

aftertheshoulderseamisjoined, butwithunder-

armopen(156A).Thensleeveseamandunder-

armseamarestitched.Stepsinfinishing the

openingandcuffareshownin156B.

I53B

I56B

32

WAYSOFMAKINGSHAPEDFACINGS

I

i

i

1C

step-by-stepinstructions

I57A

I58A

I58B

159A

I59B

I59C

160A

Sketch157Ashowstherightsideof arectangu-

laropeningtobefacedwith astraightpieceof 

fabric,cutonthesamegrain.Afterstitching,

notchthecornersandturnthe seambackflat.

Creasetheouteredgeofthe facingandsnipthe

corners.Sketch157Bshowsthefacingturned

tothewrongside,bastedfor blindhemming.

 Tomakea"Vandyke"edge,facedwitha

straightstripoffabric,cuton thesamegrain,

bastethefacinginpositionwith rightsidesto-

gether,andstitchontheseamallowance,fol-

lowingtheoutline(158A).Trimtheseamto

aquarterinch,slashat theinnerpoints,cut

offtheendsofouter points,thenturnrightside

out,crease,andslip-stitch(158B).

 Tofinishashapedopening,the shapedfacing

shouldbecutonthe samegrain.Bastethesec-

tiontobefacedto theuncutfacing(159A)and

cuttothesameshapeafter stitching(159B).

 Trimtheseam,notchitat corners,andslash

ontheinsidecurvebeforeturning,then blind

hemthefacing,afterbasting(159C).

 Tofaceascallopededge,firstbastea straight

33

 THEARTOFATTACHINGCOLLA RS

sothattheyfit perfectly

Stitchfacingbeforeslashing(161A)andstitch

collaratends(161B).Pinseamof collarexactly

inlinewithseamjoining facingtofront(161C).

 Thecollarandfacingafterstitchingareshown

by161E,withthecurveedgeslashed.Turn fac-

inginside(161D),andcollaris finished(161F).

 Thefabricofatailoredshirt collarmustbe

thoroughlyshrunkbeforecutting.Threesteps

inthemakingofsucha collarareshownby

162A,162B,and162C.

Atailoredcoatcollarandlapelsare shown

ontheunderside(163A)andoutside(1636).

Atthebackisalmostinvisible padding-stitching

(163C).Collarwithfacingturnedinside(163D).

Ashapedcollarjoinedtoa Vneckbymeansof 

narrowbiasfacing(164).Thesamecollar,made

detachable,hastheneckfinishedwitha',^-itich

biasextensionfold(165A).Foldisbastedunder

finishedneck-lineofthefrockortheblouse

(165B).Incuttingahighcollar (166),cutthe

neck-lineaccuratelyandslashtheneck-lineseam.

Innon-transparentgoods,acollarmaybe

 joinedtoneckwithseamonright side,covered

bycollar(167).Atransparentcollarrequires

insideseam,coveredwithseambindingorbias

bandoffabric(168).Oneedgeof astraight

collarmaybejoinedtojabot andneck-line

(169A).Foldcollarbackandslip-stitch(169B).

I65B

167

169A

I69B

34

PLACKETSANDOPENINGSOFMANYTYPES

170

173

I72AI72B

I1

f 

I\

andthedifferentmethodsoffastening

KeepaTalonfastenerclosedwhileadjustingthe facing

(170).Sketch171AandBshowtheright andwrongsides

ofaclosingofa tailoredshirt.Notehowthefabricunder

thepleatiscreasedtowardsthe rightside.In172Aand B,

oneedgeofanextensionfacingis turnedbacktoshowthe

methodofconstruction.Buttonholesarenotmadeuntilthe

facingisstitched.(Seepage36for buttonhole.)

Sewthesocketpartofthe snapfastenerontheupperlap

ofashoulderopening(173).Threesteps inafacedopening

appearin174AtoC.Stitch facingtofabricbeforecutting

slash,thencreaseforahem,snip corners,turnrightside

out.Facingsmaybemachine-stitchedorblind-hemmed.

Sketches175AthroughCshowanopeningorplacketfin-

ishedwithapleat,as usedforchildren'sfrocks.Cutasin

firstsketch,creasehem,andbringoneedgeover theother

tothedepthof hem.Aplacketataseamof askirtisshown

in176AandB.An openingintheunderarmseamisfinished

withanextensionfoldandsnapfasteners.If thereisgreat

strain,useahookandeye atwaist-line(177).

 Thebindingofaslashed openingmaybesquaredatthe

ends(178)asin aboundbuttonhole,oritmay becarriedall

aroundtheopening(179).Thedetailof 180Ashowshowa

bandoffabricisappliedto makeacontinuousplacketfac-

ing;180B,thefinishedplacketwithsnapfasteners.Sketches

181AandBshowhowfabricmustbe foldedbackovera

flyclosing.Thepatternprovidesanextensionofproper

depthforthisopeningandother detailsoffinish.

I74AI74BI74C

35

FASTENINGS,EYELETS ,ANDHOLDERS

accomplishedinaprofessionalmanner

Sewsnapfastenerswithasinglethread andfastenoffwith

abuttonholestitch(182Aand B).Onverythinmaterial,sew

throughasmalldiskof thefabricplacedunderthesnap.

 Thisenlargeddetail(183to 185)showstheproperplacing

ofthestitchesinsewingon hooksandeyes.Beforesewing,

spreadhooksatrifle.Takea fewstitchesunderbillofhook.

Holdersforlingeriestrapsare sewedattheshoulderseams,

withopeningtowardtheneck.Sewthesocketofa snapfas-

tenertoaworkedbar (186);orsewona ready-madeholder

(187);ormakeaholderof ribbon(188).

Workedloopsmaybeusedwithhooks(189Ato C).Use

severalthreadsforloop,withneedleas in189A.Needleis

usedeyeforemostinblanket-stitchingloop(189B).

 TheTalonslidefastenerisan effectivefinishforslashed

openingsandopeningsinseams.Itcomesin variouslengths

(190AandB).Sewthetapein place,startingattop.Keep

stitchingatedgeofclothand atleastone-quarterinchfrom

themetal.

MakeaFrenchtack(191AandB)whereit isnecessaryto

keepaloosepanelfromflying.Use needleeyeforemostin

makingafewblanket-stitchesoverthetack.

Eyeletsmaybeblanket-stitched(192)orsimplyworked

overandoverwithcloselysetshort stitches(193).Outline

withfinerunning-stitchesbeforepiercingwithstiletto.

I82A

I82B

185

I89B

I89A

I89C

193

I90A

I9IA

I9IB

36

ALESSONINMAKINGBUTTONHOLES

withdirectionsstepbystep

I99C

I99DI99E

200E

 Testsizeofbuttonholeonwastebits of 

material(194).Ballbuttonsrequirelarger

buttonholes(195).Bastethroughlayers

beforecuttingfabric(196).Useagauge

foraccuratemarking(197).Markwith

thread.

Foraone-piecebuttonhole,placearec-

tangleoffabric,straightorbias,on the

rightsideofthe material,basteandstitch

buttonholekeepingthecornerssquare.

198AandF.Cutwithdiagonalsnips at

thecorners(198BandG).Carrythe fab-

ricthroughtothewrongside (198C)and

creasetheends(198H).Therightside is

shownin198D.Takeafewstitchesat each

endandbesure toturntheseamsaway

fromthebuttonhole(198J).Bastethe

openingbeforeyoupress(198E).198K 

showsfacing.

Aftermarkingatwo-piecebuttonhole

(202A)placetwofoldedrectanglesof 

fabric,straightorbias,withthe folded

edgeturnedawayfromthemark,onthe

rightsideofthe fabric(202B)basteand

stitchlengthwiseonly.Donotstitchends.

 Turnbackthepiecesandcutthe buttonhole

(202C).Carrythepiecesthroughtothe

wrongside.202Dshowstherightside,

202EandFthewrong side.Stitcheach

end,preferablybyhand(202G).Ifyouuse

amachine,foldthefabricback(202H).

 Thefinishedbuttonholeisshownin202J.

37

HOWTOSEWONBUTTONSANDWEIGHTS

Intheprofessionalmanner

 Toallowroomforthebuttonhole,sew

overapinand makeashankbywinding

thethreadaroundthestem(204).Use a

threadascoarseastheopeningwill allow.

Onanunlinedcoatora jerseysewthrough

asmall,flatbuttonplacedon theunder-

sidebeneaththelargerbutton(205).

Buttonsasdecorationsmaybesewedcrow-

foot-wise(206)orhangaspendants(207).

Sewbuttonstoastrip offabrictoserve

aslinks(208)or joinwithabar-tackor

ablanket-stitchtack(209).

Cutthecoveringforabutton-mouldatrifle

lessthantwiceitsdiameter.Overcastbe-

forerunning.Forfinematerial,alsouse

adiskofthin waddingthesizeofthe mould

(210Athrough210F).

Sketches211AandBshowaweightplaced

inlinewitha seam,atthetopofa hem.

Weightsarecoveredbyusingonethickness

ofaliningmaterial.

Payattentiontothepositionof theshank

insewingbuttonofthe typeinsketch212.

Keepthethreadsparalleltothe edgeof 

material,puttingthestrainonthe metal.

2IIA

1212

38

MAKINGTAILOREDFACING SANDLININGS

stepbystepin asimplemanner

2I3A

2I3B

2I3C

2I3D

2I3E

2I3F

2I4A

2KB

 Thesketchesillustratingthefirststepsin facing

atuxedocollar(213AtoD) showthewrong

side,thestitchingtothe edgeandtheturning.

 Thecoatliningisstitchedseparately,turned,

andslip-stitchedoverfacingedge(213E).The

finishedtuxedocollar(213F)ishighat the

backoftheneck.

 Thenotchcollaranditsfacingare seamedto-

gether(214A),andtheseamsslashedand

pressedopen.Betweenthecoatandfacingisthe

padding-stitchedinterfacing ,asshownin sketch

214B.

 Thecoatishemmed,withthefacingand collar

rightsideout,andthe facingisslip-stitchedat

loweredge(214C).Lininginposition(214D),

sleeveliningisblind-hemmedtocoverarmhole

stitching.

Apleatlaidin acoatliningat thecentreback

(215)givesgreaterease.

Apleatlaiddart-wisein theliningofa coat

helpstopreventanyunduestrain (216).

 Thisisthewayto blind-hemasleevelining,

aboutaninchfromthebottom,wrongside out,

asinsketch217.

Whenacoatisto beunlinedorhalf-lined,the

seams,facings,andhem-linearebound(218).

2I4C

39

USESOFLININGS,SLIPS,ANDFOUNDATIONS

easymethodswithaprofessionalair

Hereisacoat linedonlyinthe yokeandthe

sleeve(219).Bindallthe seamsthatshowand

blind-hemattheloweredge.

Insketch220,yousee acoatbeforeitis

quite

finished.Theliningisfinishedseparatelyfrom

thecoatatlower edge,withFrenchtacksatthe

seams.

 Thissketch(221A)showshow thefacingofa

coatisjoinedto adecorativebandthatruns

downthefront.Thebandis insideout.Here

(221B)isanotherviewof thecoatwhilebeing

faced.Thissketchshowshowit willlookeven-

tually—withthefacingturnedinside.

 Thistypeofdressfoundationwith abuilt-up

bodice(222)doesnotslip atshoulders.Neck-

linesmayvary.Undersheerfabrics,this type

offoundation(223)isgenerallypreferred.

Methodsoffittingslipsandfoundationsvary

withfashionsinfrocks.Followa newVogue

patternforexactdetails.Sketch224shows a

lace-toppedslip.(Seepage44fordetail oflace

 joinedwithsatin-stitch.)

Asemifittedliningmaybehip-lengthor short-

er,asisshown intheillustration(225).Vary

neck-linesandtheclosingtosuit one'sneed.

222

220

22IA

22IB

COLLEGEOFAGRJCUIr

40

 TYPICALPOCKETS ,STEPBYSTEP

226A

intheprofessionalmanner

226B

226C

226D

226E

226F

227A

227B

227C

227E

227D

Foraboundpocket(226F),

markwithtailor'stacks

(226A),andbasteabias

pieceoffabricontheright

side(226B).Stitchone-

eighthinchfrombasting

andacrossends(226C),and

slashthroughcentreanddi-

agonallyincorners.Carry

fabricthroughslash(226D)

andbaste.Stitchfabricpock-

ettotopof openingandlin-

ingportionbelow.Sewto

garment,lettingbindingex-

tendbeyond.Stitchboth

piecestogether(seesketches

226EandF).

Foraweltpocket,usetai-

lor'stacks(227A).Stitch

bothendsofpocketwelt,re-

verse;press(227B).Place

openedgesofweltbelow

pocketline(227C).Place

pocketaboveline,stitch

41

GIRDLESANDWAIST-LINES

ofvarioussmarttypes

Notchthecornersbefore

turningabeltinside out

(230).Slip-stitchopening.A

tailoredbelthasworkedeye-

lets(231).Tomakealoop

onheavyfabric(232),take

pleatssinglyoneachface

onthefabric.Forloopon

softfabric(233),run

drawthreadthroughboth

thicknesses.Twothicknesses

ofchiffonmaybemachine

hemstitchedtogether(234)

andedgescut.Picotedgirdles

(235)aremadebycutting

machine-hemstitc hing.Agir-

dlemaybebackedwithrib-

bonofsamecolourandwidth

(236).Endsofastring belt

maybecrossedandbuttoned

(237).Sketches238Aand

Bshowhowtoattachbelting

insideaskirt.

Sketches239Aand239B

showrightandwrongsides

ofcasing.Thismaytake

placeofagirdle.So may

rowsofshirring(240).When

agirdlesectioniscut inone

withafrock(241),follow

patternforcorrectposition.

Sketch242Ashowshowto

coverabucklewithfabric.

Hemthebacksectiontothe

front(242B).Staysfora

42

FLARES,OVERLAYS,ANDINSERTS

245

246

247

howtohandlethemexpertly

Whencircularinsertsoccuron askirtorfrock,follow

thedirectionsaccompanyingpattern.Here(245)the

flaresarefinishedwithbias bindingofthesamefabric.

Semicircularoverlaysmaybemachine-hemstitchedand

picoted(246).Matchthesilkcarefully.Attach withtiny

running-stitches.

Acircularvolantmountedon askirtshouldbecreased

andslashedontheinside curve(247).Allowit tohang

foradaybeforefinishingthe hem—toallowforsagging.

Anappliedvolant,gatheredatthetop (248),callsfor

carefuladjusting.Followperforationsexactlyanddonot

drawthegatheringthreadtootightly.

 Toadjustalooseoverlay(249A and249B)avoidany

effectofhardness.Tackbyhand,atupper edgeonly,with

matchedsilk,andavoiddrawingthethreadtoo tightly.

Adesignmaycall forashapedoverlayneitherstraight

norexactlybias,asshownby 250.Runabastingthread

alongedgeimmediatelyaftercutting.Guardagainst

stretchingedge.

Sometimes,acircularoverlayisappliedto askirtor

frockwithoutincreasingthewidth,as shownby251.

Inthiscase,finish thehembeforeapplying(seepage17

forcircularhems).Basteveryaccurately.An overlay

linedwithacontrastingmaterialis

stitchedwithtwo

rightsidestogether,turnedinsideout,and attached

tothefrockbyslip-stitching (252).Forpleated

overlays,creasetheupperedgebeforepleating.After

bastinginposition,machine-stitchtheoverlaywitha

tinyheadingabovethestitching(253).

252

43

 TAILOREDTRIMMINGSANDFINISHINGS

forprofessionallyexactresults

 Tomakeanarrowhead,markatrianglewith chalkand

beginatthelower leftcorner,takingthestitchesin the

ordersketched—254A,254B,254C,and254D.

 Tomakeacrowfoottack,markwith chalkandfollow

theorderindicatedforeach stitch—255A,255B,255C,

and255D—drawinginthethreadsa verylittle.

 Threestepsinthemakingof abar-tackareshownby

256A,256B,and256C.Analternatemethodis tousethe

needleeye-foremostinworkingovertheloop.Avoid

pullingthestitchesunevenly.

Sketch257showsthepositionof theneedleincouching

acord.Amethodof pullingtheendthroughthegoods is

touseavery coarseneedleandthreadloopedovercord.

 Tomakefurbanding,cutfur fromthebackwitha

sharpknife,cuttingthepeltonly.Overhandjoinings with

thehairrunningoneway, dampentheseam,tacktoa

board,dryovernight.Overhandtapetotheedge,turn,and

catch-stitchoveralamb's-woolbacking.(258A).

 Tosewiurtrimmingto fabric,donotletthe threadcatch

thehair.Ifit does,workhairoutcarefully.Sewwith

longslip-stitches,takenintotaping,notin fur,andfasten

offthreadsecurely(258B).Guardagainstpuckering.

Sketch259showschain-stitch—usedinheavythread

toholdapleat orinfinemetal threadasadecoration.

Sketch260showsdarning-stitch—foratrimmingband

orbackgroundtoanembroiderydesign.Thestitchesmay

beinalternateor inevenrows.

254B

254A

254C

255B

255A

255C

256A

256B

44

LACEBORDERS,INSER TS,ANDCORNERS

263

therightwaytohandle them

Lacemaybejoinedtoa fabricbyrollingtheedgeof the

materialandwhipping(2611.Anotherwaytoattachalace

borderistooverhandthe lacetothefinishedhemof the

fabric(262).Satin-stitchmaybeusedtocoverthe joining

oflaceandfabric(263).Bastelaceon therightsideof the

materialandcutawaythefabricunderlaceafter thework

iscompleted.

Forinsertinglace(264),bastewithfine running-stitches,

trimthefabricinback,roll backtheedge,andwhipwith

finethread.Thisisa firm,neatfinish.

Lacemaybewhippedtotheedgeof lacebeading,after

beadingandmaterialhavebeenwhippedtogether(265).

Laceinsertionmaybebastedonthe rightsideofthefabric

(266A),slip-stitchedalongbothedges,thencutfromthe

wrongsideandtheedgesrolled andwhipped(266B).

Injoiningall-overlace,trimone edgetofollowthemotifs,

layitoverthe sectiontobejoined,andwhipwith matching

thread,asisshownin illustration267.

 Tomakeacornerinlace orinsertion,cutaway,bringthe

biasedgestogether,andwhip,usingfine,carefullymatched

thread(268A).268Bshowsthewrongside;268Cshowsthe

finishedcorner,thejoiningbeingpracticallyinvisible.

IDLJDUOOUIJO mJO'-'DDGCODO aaOt

'nQODQQDOQOODU

268C

45

VARIOUSDETAILSTHATMAKETRIMM ING

simplerulesfordoingthem

Ahanddrawn-workbandofself-materialmaybesetin

placeswhereactualdrawn-workisimpracticable(269).

Soutachebraidmaybeslip-stitchededgewise(270)or

stitchedthroughthemiddle(271).Itmay followatransfer

patternorbeappliedin rows.Ascallopededgemaybe

paddedwithrunning-stitchesandblanket-stitchedbefore

thefabriciscutaway(272).

Feather-stitchingisadaptedforstraightedges(273)orfor

curvedones(274).Therearemanyvariations.

Forfaggoting,bastefabrictopaperafterturning hem,

leavingdesiredwidthbetween.Inbar-faggoting(275)twist

threadaroundneedlealwaysinthesamedirection.Another

typeoffaggotingisshownin 276.Beadsaresewedsingly

withaback-stitchateachbead(277).

278showsthepositionofthe needleinmakingaFrench

knot.279showsthebullion-stitchfortacksordecoration.

Agatheredrufflemaybejoinedto theseamofadouble

collarsothatall stitchesareinside(280AandB).

Forabox-pleatedtrimming,foldandbastethefabric before

pleatingasshownbyillustration281.A gatheredtrimming

band,sewedthroughthecentre,mayhavefrayededges

(282).Keepcross-stitchesallrunningthesameway(283).

276

280Bf^-J2

280A

46

DRAWN-WOR KANDHEMSTITCHING

284

285A

285C

285D

286C

286D

Inafew,easy-to-followlessons

 Topullthreadsfordrawn-work,cutaslit the

exactwidththedrawn-workistobe(284). Fora

hem,thethreadsaredrawnverycarefullyallthe

wayfromoneedgeofthe fabrictotheother.

i

Inthefirst stitchinhemstitching,theneedletakes

upthreethreadsandis carriedoverthethread

(285A).Forcoarserhemstitching,takemore

threads.285Bshowsthepositionoftheneedle

andthreadforthesecondstitch,beforedrawing

upthebuttonholeloopcompletingthestitch.

285Cshowshowsinglehemstitchinglookswhen

finished,thestitchesshouldbealmostinvisible,

thethreadfine.Todoublehemstitch(285D),re-

peatthemethodonbothedgesof thedrawnspace.

Indiagonalhemstitching,onesideisworkedas

forsinglehemstitching,butthethreadsmustbe

eveninnumber(286A).Forthesecondstep indi-

agonalhemstitching,theneedleshouldbeplaced

asshownin286B,dividingthe twogroupsof 

threadevenly.Inthethirdstep, theneedleis

placedsothatthefirst buttonholeloopconfines

halfofthethreadsfromthe firstgroupandhalf 

fromthesecond(286C).Sketch286Dshowscom-

pleteddiagonalhemstitching,withthestitches

magnifiedtoshowthesuccessionofbuttonhole

loops.

Onewayoftreatingahemstitchedcorneristo

finishrawedgeswitha buttonhole-stitch,done

47

DECORATIVEDETAILSOFTRIMMING

thataddthechic handtouch

Makearosettefromafabric orribbonapplied

spirallytoadisk offabric(289AandB). To

makeafabricflower,tackpetalsto adiskof 

fabric(290A)andfraypetal edges(290B).

Fringeismadebya seriesofknottedstrands.

Cuteachstrandovertwice lengthdesiredfor

fringeandfollowsteps(291A toD)fortying.

 Toapplique,bastecut-outfigureonfabric for

security,thenblanket-stitchrawedge(292).Or,

edgemaybecreasedandinvisiblyslip-stitched

afterbastinginposition(293).For embroidered

initial,seesketch294.Rickrackbraidmaybe

helddownwithstitches incontrastingcolours.

Seesketches295and296.

Firststepinsmocking—takeuptinystitches

throughdotsshownonpattern,draw up,and

fastenoff(297).Removethreadsaftersmocking

isfinished.Honeycomb-stitchisworkedfromleft

toright.Bringneedlethroughfirst dot,take

smallstitchinseconddot, drawtogether,pass

needleunderfabrictoseconddot onsecondline,

catchsecondandthirddots together,andrepeat

(298AandB).Diamond-stitchisworkedfrom

lefttoright.Bring threadthroughfirstdot,take

stitchinseconddot insameline,thenin second

dotinsecondline.Takestitch inthirddotin

secondlineanddrawup tightandpasson.Re-

peattheprocess.Seesketches299Ato 299D.

289A

297

—frt

295

298A

298B

299D

48

FOLLOWTHISORDERFORAFROCK 

OFWOOLORSILK WHICHHASSLEEVES

 THATARECUTINONE WITHTHEDRESS

Buyfabricsandpatternat sametime

Bemeasuredbytheexpertin theVoguepat-

terndepartmenttoensuregettingtheright size.

Lookfortherequiredyardageonthe envelope.

Ifyouareverytall, youmaywantmorelength.

Ifyouareorderingby mail,seepage55for

takingmeasurements.

Comparemeasurementstopattern

Seepage55forguide inmeasuring.Buyenough

unbleachedmuslintocuttheentire pattern,if 

yourmeasurementsaremarkedlydifferent,and

readpages54to56 forthecorrectplacesto

makealterations.Alsonotesuggestionsforal-

terationsonchartenclosedwith pattern.

Familiarizeyourselfwithdesign—

StudythefashiondrawingsinVogue orin

Vogue'spatternperiodicalsthatshowhow the

costumeisworn,whereit isdrawncloselyabout

thefigure,andwhereit isloose.Studythework-

ingdrawingsthataccompanythepatternfor de-

tailsofmaking.Noticeifthere areanyextra

enclosuresintheenvelope,andputat oneside

theonesyouarenot goingtouse.Familiarize

yourselfwiththemarkingofeach sectionwith

especialattentiontotheamountallowedfor

seams.Payattentiontoanydartsor slashesthat

maybecalledforin thedesign,anddonotcut

aslashuntilyou havemadesurethatitwill

comeintheright placeuponyourfigure.Ob-

servewhetherornotallowancehas beenmade

forhemanddecidewhetheryou preferhemmed,

bound,orpicotededgeandcut offorallow

accordingtothefinishdesired.

Assemblefindings—Usegreatcarein

49

velvetwithconsiderablebody;seepage14.On

silkorothermaterialwhich hasbeencutdouble,

markwithtailors'chalkthroughperforationson

onesideandalongpins ontheother.Whencut

single,markalongthepinsonly.Removepattern

andrunmarkingthreadlinesalong thechalk

marks.Uselargebastingstitcheswith threadof 

contrastingcolor.Marknotchesaccuratelywith

threadorsnipwith thepointsofthescissors

beforeremovingpattern.Oratracingwheel may

beusedtomarksimplegarmentsof plaincolor.

Runamarkingthreadstraightdowncentre front

andback.Seepage11.Whencut double,these

centrethreadlinesshouldbe putinbeforere-

movingpattern.

Cutbiasstripsfor facingsorbindings

Seepages22and23 fordirections.

Pinandbastedartsor tucks—Seepages

21and28for directions.

Pinandbasteseams—Ifmaterialisto

beeasedbetweennotches,holdthefullest part

towardyou.Besureto matchnotchesaccurately.

Followtheseamallowanceindicatedonthe

patternbyarow ofsmallperforations.Work

stepbystepaccordingto thechartanddirections

andconsulttheminiaturedrawingof eachofthe

variousdetailsofhandling.

Pinandbastehem—Itis veryimpor-

tanttogetthe completeeffectinthetryingon.

 Tryon—Standasyoudohabitually,be-

foreafull-lengthmirror,wearingwhateveryou

willwearunderthe finishedfrockandwiththe

heelsofyourshoesof theheightyouintend

wearing.Asimplefrockof thistypeneedslittle

ornofitting.Theimportantpoint istoseethat

thecentrelineshangtrue. Ifithangssidewise,

oneshouldermaybehigherthanthe other;or

50

FOLLOWTHISORDERFORAFROCK 

WITHSET-INSLEEVES,ATTACHEDCOLLAR,

SEAMATWAIST,ANDYOKE ONSKIRT

Selectpatternandfabricin relationto

eachother.Telltheexpertin aVogueDepart-

mentthekindoffabric youhaveinmind,if 

youareindoubtas toitssuitabilityto the

design.Lookforfabricsandcolours mentioned

inVogueorVogue patternperiodicals.

Comparemeasurements —Bemeasured

byaVogueexpertor studypage55,askingsome

onetomeasureyou.Ifyou areunusuallytall,re-

memberthatyouneedmorefabricthanspecified.

Ifyourmeasurementsvaryfromtheproportions

ofthepattern,buysomeunbleachedmuslinfor

atrialcuttingand readpages54to61; alsoread

patternchartandstudythe illustrations.

Buyorassemblefindings—Besurethat

thesewingsilkis anaccuratematch;thatsnap

fastenersandhooksarethesize suitedtothe

fabric,andthatbuttonsareup-to-date.

Buyorassembletools—Youneedshears

foractualcuttingandscissors withsharppoints

fornotchesandslashes.Youneedpins withsharp

points,needlesasfineasyour fabricpermits.

Seethatyoursewingmachineis ingoodorder,

tensionadjustedtofabric.Supplyyourselfwith

tailors'chalk,accuratetapemeasureandyard-

stick.Haveironing-board,sleeve-board,iron,and

pressingclothswithoutsizingat hand.

and13forshrinkingwool materials,andthe

treatmentofpronouncedpilefabrics.Pressout

foldindoublewidthfabrics, straightenendby

drawingthreadorbytearing,unless youare

usingjerseyorotherknittedweaves.Thesewill

nottearnorcan threadsbedrawn.Straighten

endbycuttingat arightangleto selvage,using

51

theperforationsandalongthepins ontheoppo-

siteside.Ifcut single,markatthepinsonly,

onthewrongside.Removepatternandrun bast-

ing-threadlinesdowncentrefrontand centre

back,keepingtheworkonthe table.

Cutanybiasstripsneeded—Seepages

22and23for truebiasandfor treatmentof 

facingsandbindingsofvarioustypes.

Pinandbastedarts,tucks,seams—See

pages21and28for dartsortucks.Forseams,

bastethebackofthe blousetothefrontat the

shoulderseams.Bastethesideseamsfromthe

armholedown.Joincollartoneck. Besureto

matchnotchesandpinall seamsbeforebasting

them.Ifthematerialneedsto beeasedbetween

notches,holdthefullestparttoward you.Ifany

straincomesonthebasting,start withaback-

stitch,asaknotmay pullthrough.Bastethe

skirtsectionstogether.Basteyokeatsides.Join

skirttoyoke.Pinandbaste yoketobodice.Leave

anopeningattheleft sideaboveandbelow

waist-line,ifnecessary,toslipoverthe head.

Bastesleevesandsetinto armholes.Studychart

forseamallowance.Bastefive-eighthsofaninch

fromtheedges,unlessthechart callsforanar-

rowerseamonspecifiedsections.

Basteorpinhem—Itis importantto

haveitturnedupfor theeffectintryingon.

 Tryen—Donotfittoo much.Standna-

turally.Besurethatyou arewearingshoeswith

heelsofthesameheightthat youwillwearwith

thefinishedfrockandthesame typeofunder-

wearandgirdleor corset.Ifthefabricis sheer,

giveparticularattentiontothefit oftheslip.

Makesurethattheguidelines atthecentrefront

andbackarestraight.If theyareawry,one

shoulderorhipmaybe higherthantheother.

52

FOLLOWTHISORDERFORACOAT

 THATISPLAINTAILORED

Selectpatternandfabricsat thesame

time.Besureto buyamountoffabric,lining,and

interlining,ifrequired,specifiedonpatternif 

yourmeasurementsconform—m oreyardageif 

youareunusuallytall,possiblylessif unusually

short.Havesalespersontakeyourmeasurement

beforebuyingpattern.Readpage55,ifordering

bymail.Donottry tomeasureyourself.

Buyorassemblefindingsandtools—

Besurethatsewing silksandthreadsarean

accuratematch,thatneedlesandpinshavegood

points,thatbuttons,snaps,orhooksareof size

suitedtofabric.Muslinfor interfacingnottoo

heavy.Besurethatelectriciron isingoodorder,

ironingboardandsleeve-boardhavecleancover-

ings,cutting-tableislargeenough,thatscissors

andshearsaresharp,tapemeasuresandyard-

sticksareaccurate,thatsewingmachineis in

goodshapeandtensionadjustedforfabric.Have

apieceoftailors' chalk.

Spongematerialbeforecutting—See

page12forshrinkingwool fabrics.Shrinkapiece

oflight-weightunbleachedmuslin.Thisisfor

thesectionsbetweenthecoatand thefacing,also

betweenthecollarandthe facing.Straighten

endsofthefabric.

Openoutpattern—Layasideanysec-

tionsthatarenot tobeused.Alterif necessary

forlength,etcetera.Seechart enclosedwithpat-

tern,forsuggestionsregardingalterations.

Placepatternonmaterial—Laypattern

oncloth,givingparticularattentionto thechart

thataccompaniespatternandperforationsfor

straightofgoodsoneach section.

Assembleandbaste—Keeponthetable

53

eighthsofaninch,and snipatintervals.Press

seamopen;or,whencoatis tobeunlined,press

openinfront,upwardin back.

Markandmakebuttonholes—Seepage

36.Ifworkedbuttonholesareto beused,they

shouldbemadeaftercoatis entirelyfinished

exceptforfinalpressing.

/

Bastefrontfacingtocollar—Joincoat

facingtocollar,workingfromshoulderforward,

matchingnotches.

Bastefacingandcollarto coat—Place

tworightsidesof fabrictogether.Pinbefore

basting.

 TurnfacingandcollarInside—Baste

alongedgewithsilk,then press.Leavesideof 

facinglooseuntilhemis finished.

Finishloweredgeofcoat—Turnup

loweredgeaccordingtoperforations.Tryon to

confirmcorrectnessoflength.Stitchribbonseam

bindingtoedgeofhem andhemthebindingto

coat.Orbindedgeof hemwithabiasstrip of 

liningfabricandblind-stitchto coat.Pinfacing

flatandcatch-stitchrawedge againstcoat;turn

infacingatlower edgeandslip-stitchtohem.

Makeweltpockets—Seepage40.

Machinestitchsleeves—Pressseams.

Useawell-paddedsleeve-board.Seepage13.

PutsleevesIntoarmhole—Runagath-

eringthreadaroundtopofsleevei fnecessaryin

unpliablematerial.Pin,thenbasteintoarmhole

andtryon.Adjustlength,stitch intoarmhole,

andpress,shrinkingoutanyvisiblefulness.Turn

uphemandfinishsameas coathem.

Cutandstitchlining—Theliningis cut

fromthecoatpattern.Perforationsshowwhere

tocutliningat loweredge.Cutthefrontlining

54

IFYOURFIGUREISDISPROPORTIONATE

ALTERATIONSTHATAFFECTDETAILS,

BUTNOTTHELINES,OF ADESIGN

 THEendinview isaVogue-cutcostume.Ifany

alterationisneededtoadaptthe patterntoan

unusualfigure,makesurethatthelines ofthe

originalarenotlost.The bestofallwaysi sto

cutthemodelin someinexpensivefabric—un-

bleachedmuslinpreferably—withthenecessary

alterationsmadeattheverybeginning,before

cuttingintotheactualdress fabric.Thereason

forthiswill beapparentifyoustudythe dia-

gramswhichfollowthis(pages 56to61).

Heavyshouldersshouldbetakencareofat the

firstcutting,asshoulda fullbustora dispropor-

tionatelylargehip-line.Otherwise,theremaybe

irremediabletightnessorinsufficientseamallow-

ance.Buythepatternbybust measureforalarge

bust,byhipmeasureforlarge hips.Anyaltera-

tionthataffectsthesize orshapeofthe armhole

affectsthesleevealso,and,conversely,anyal-

terationinsizeof sleeveaffectsthearmhole.But

don'tslashrecklessly.Donotgathersleevemore

thanallowedforinthe pattern.

 Theproperlengthofa garmentisthefirststep.

Notethelengthprintedon theenvelopeormea-

surethepattern,considerwhetheror notahem

allowanceisnecessary,andcheckupwith the

lengthyourequire.Ifmorelengthi sneeded,cut

thepatterncrosswiseasindicatedin thediagrams

onpage56;if less,laypleatsacrossthepattern

asindicated.Ineithercase,of course,thecutting

lineatthesides iskeptonan evenslant(seedot-

tedlines),unlessthefrockis

cutperfectly

straight.Thepositionofthenormalwaist-line,

indicatedonallone-piecepatterns,mustalways

beretained.

55

MEASUREMENTSMUSTBEACCURATE

 TOENSURESUCCESSWHENYOU

AREMAKINGAFROCKORCOAT

WHENEVERpossible,haveyourmeasure-

mentstakenintheVoguepattern de-

partmentofyourfavouriteshop.Unlessthe

hipsaredisproportionatelylarge,thebust

measurementissufficientforensuringthatthe

patternofafrock,coat,jacket,or blousewill

becorrectinsize. Donottryto measureyour-

self.Ifyouareordering bymail,havethebust

measurementtakenwiththetapeheldeasily—

nottightlydrawn—overthefullestportionof 

thefigure,witha veryslightupwardinclination

towardstheback.

Whenthehipsaredisproportionatelylarge,

itisessentialto, takethehipmeasurement,

aboutseveninchesbelowthenormalwaist-line.

 Thetapeshouldbedrawn closely,butnot

strained.Orderthepatternbyhip measurement,

becauseitiseasier toretaingoodlinesby

takingintheupperportion thanitwouldbe to

enlargeapatternthatis toosmallforthehip-

line.Whenonecanfind thetypeofdesignde-

siredinseparateblousesandskirts, itisa good

ideatobuytheblouse bythebustmeasure,and

theskirtbythe hipmeasure,andmakealtera-

tionsatthewaist-lineonly.

Fortheskirtpatterns,orderby thewaist

measurementunlessdisproportionatelylarge

hipsrequirethatthepattern beorderedbythe

hipmeasure.Forlength,consulttheprinted

tableoflengthsthataccompaniesthepattern.

 Theelementofstylecontrolsthis.You maybe

surethatthelengthis correctforthetime and

thetype—but,ifyouaretaller orlesstallthan

56

ALTERATIO NSFORFIGURESTALLORSHORT

302

topreservecorrectproportions

Foratallfigure,cut andseparatethepat-

tern,retainingpositionofthewaist-line,

andincreasingordecreasingspacesas

neededaboveorbelow(300).Forashort

figure,laystraightpleatsacrossthepat-

tern,makingupperpleatdeeperfora

short-waistedone.Retainpositionofwaist-

line(301).

 Thisisthewayto cutandseparatethepat-

ternofadesign withwingsleeves.Treat

thebackandthefrontthe same(302).

 Toshorten,overlapinsteadofseparating.

Sketch303showshowtolengthenpattern

ofafrockwithseamat waistline.Sketch

304showshowtoshortenit.

Afittedfrockorcoatmaybe lengthenedin

threeplaces(305).Thealterationatthe

bust-lineinthissketchprovidesfora full

bustandtheotherfor length.Thewayto

shortenthispatternisto overlappleatsas

shownby306.Tolengthenone-piecepy-

 jamas,cutandseparatethepatternin three

places,asshownbysketch307.Thewayto

shortenpyjamasistooverlappatternas

shown(308).

306

308

57

SEVERALMISCELL ANEOUSALTERA TIONS

foranypeculiaritiesoffigure

Acircularflarecanbeshortenedor length-

enedattheloweredgeonly, ifthematerial

mustbekeptonthe straightgrain,asin

cross-barredorstripedfabric(309).

 Toretainthewidthat theloweredgeof 

acircularflare,thepatternmaybe divided

forthelength.Thisnecessitatesaslightly

biasseamasshownin 310.

 Thepatternofacircularflare maybe

shortenedinthismanner,whenthefabric

willpermitaslightlybias seam.Cutona

newlinefromthehemto thepoint(311).

Frockswithflouncesshouldbeshortened

inbothsections(312)or lengthenedin

bothsections(313)topreservetherelative

proportions.Straightflouncesmaybeal-

teredatedge,shapedonesnearcentre.For

afigurethatrequireswidthacross theback,

laythepatternona slanttothefoldand

easetheextrawidthintothe collarorneck

finish,sothatit isalmostinvisible(314).

Forafigurewithlarge hips,cutthepat-

ternandseparatetothe widthdesired,both

atthebackandthe front.Cutonanew

linerunningfromarmholetohip (315).

Makethisalterationatthefront only,eas-

ingtheextralengthunder thearm.The

centresketchshowsthealterationforalow

bust,therightsketch,fora fullone(316).

310

312

r\

313

s.

314

58

METHODSOFALTERINGCIRCU LARSKIRTS

3I7B

andyoke* forfiguresthataretall orshort

 Toshortenacircularskirtwithoutdecreasingwidthat hem,

markseveninchesfromthetopand againasmanyinches

belowasdesired(317A).Next,cutonupperli neandover-

lappatterntosecondmarking.Keepedgestrue,laying in

dart-pleatstokeeppaperflat(317B).Tolengthencircular

skirtwithoutincreasingwidth,cutloweredge,slideup pat-

ternamountrequired,foldbackpatternfornewline (318).

Sketch319showshowtodecreasesizeofa yokewithout

changinghipmeasurements.Sketch320,howtomakewaist

larger.Toenlargecircularyoke,extendfoldoffabricbe-

yondpatternone-halftheadditionalmeasurementrequired

(321);todecrease,cutoffone-half(322).

 Tolengthenacircularskirt,cutpatternas indicated,and

keeptheedgethatis placedonafoldstraightand cutanew

slantonouteredge(323).To shorten,laytwopleatsasin-

dicated,cutasshownbydots,placingtheother edgestraight

onthefold(324).

 Toenlargewaist-line,placefoldedgeofpatterna little

awayfromfabricfoldattoponly,add atseams,decreasing

amountasyoucutdownward(325).Todecreasewaist-line,

layedgeofpatternbeyondfoldat toponly,slopeoffat

seams,decreasingamountasyoucutdown(326).

Donottryto markaskirton

yourself.Standwithweighton

bothfeet,hipseven,whilesome

oneplacesarowofpins mea-

suredaccuratelyfromtheflooror

workonafigure(327).Turn

thehemonthis line.

59

WAYSTOALTERCHILDREN'SCLO THES

accordingtoachild'sheightandbuild

 Tolengthenachild'sromperor drawers,dividethepat-

ternstraightacrossataboutthe centre(328).Thismethod

oflengtheningalsoholdsgoodforlengtheningchildren's

frocks.Toshortenaromperfora smallchild,takeupapleat

inthepatternnearthe centre(329).Aone-piecefrockmay

beshortenedinthesameway.

 Thebuildofthe childmustbeconsideredinalteringa

bloomerpattern.Shortenbytakingpleatsacross(330).

Undueshorteningabovethekneeputsastrain ontheseams.

Beforealteringabloomerpattern,makesurewhetherthe

extralengthisneededbetweenthewaist-lineandthe crotch

orbetweencrotchandknee.Cutononeor bothlines(331).

 Toincreasethesizeof aboy'strousersatthe top,cutbe-

yondthepattern,taperingtoaboutfive inchesdown(332).

 Thesideseamalterationisusually theonlyonerequired.

 Tomaketrouserssmalleratthe top,cutofforfoldbackthe

pattern,slantingoffaboutfiveinchesdown(333).Thisis

usuallyenough,unlessthefigureisdisproportionate.

Boys'trousersareshortenedbytakingpleatsacrossthe pat-

tern,asindicated(334),orby onlyonepleat.Retainthe

positionofthecrotch,alteringaboveorbelow.

 Tolengthenboys'trousers,cut

thepatternacrossonceortwice,

allowingextralengthneededac-

cordingtothechild'spropor-

tions.Lengthmaybeneededonly

betweenwaist-lineandcrotchor

betweencrotchandknee;(335).

332

60

FORTHEDISPROPORT IONATEARM

alterationsintheprofessionalmanner

Shortenaone-piecesleevebypleatingpattern

asindicatedin336;followthe dottedlinein

cutting.Tolengthen,cutpatternstraightacross

andseparatepieces(337).Alwaysretainposi-

tionofelbow.

Whenanupperarmis undulylarge,cutpattern

lengthwise;separateattop(338).Alterarm-

holetocorrespond.

 Thisalteration(339)leavesthearmholeun-

altered,butgivesmoreroomfora developed

muscle.Easeinfulnessbetweennotches.To

enlargeasleeve,cutpatternlengthwiseand

separatethepieces(340).Alterarmholetocor-

respond.

 Thisalteration(341)isrequiredwhen thearm-

holehasbeencutlower.Separatepiecestomake

sleevecorrespondwitharmhole.

 Toshortenatwo-piececoatsleeve,takeup

pleatsinpattern,asindicated(342),without

alteringpositionofelbow.Thearmholemust

bealteredtocorrespond.Tolengthen,cutpattern

andseparate(343),retainingpositionofelbow.

Alterationsforalargeror smallerarmaremade

attheseam-linesoftwo-piecesleeves.

61

ALTERINGNECK-LINEANDSHOULDERS

theeasiestwaysandthe besttofollow

 Toalteracollar like344atneck-lineonly,take

darttuckstoreduce(345) orcutslashesto en-

large(346).Workonhalfthe pattern.Toin-

creasesizeofshirt collarandneck-band,cut

throughallsections(347Ato C).Toreducesize,

pleateachsection(348Ato C).Tomakeawide

collarlarger,cutpatternas indicated(349).

Pleattomakesmaller(350).

Enlargeasailorcollarby cuttingpattern(351)

andalteringslant(seedottedlines). Reduceby

layingpleats(352).

Iftheneckis setfarforward,cutinside thepat-

ternatfront(353).Retain lineatshoulderand,

ifnecessary,cutbeyondpatterninback. Fora

smallneck,cutbeyondthepatternas indicated

(354),back,front,orboth.

 Thedottedlinesonsketch355 showthealtera-

tionforalong shoulder.Retaintheshapeofthe

armhole.Forslopingshoulders,cutpatternfront

andbackasindicated(356).Overlappattern be-

lowarmhole.Cutasshownby dottedline.For

squareshoulders(357),cutpattern;raisepiece

andcutasindicatedby dots.Tolowerthearm-

holeforalarge arm,cutacrosspatternbackand

front(358).Altersleevetocorrespond.

353I

v»

354

347A

347B

347C

348B/'

348C

355

358

62

CONTENTS

AdjustingFulnessinSleeve30

AlterationsBeioieCuttingFabric

ForChildren'sClothes59

ForCircularSkirts58

ForCollars61

ForFiguresTallorShort 56

ForNeck-Lines61

ForShoulders61

ForSleeves60

ForYokes58

IfYourFigureIs Disproportionate54

Miscellaneous....

AlternateUseofTwoNeedles

Applique

Blanket-Stitch

Slip-Stitch

Armhole,ChangingPatternat....

ArrowheadTacks

57

22

47

47

61

43

Back-Stitching15

Bands

AppliedandInserted24

 ToCutBias22

BarTacks43

Basting,ImportantPointsAbout14

Beads,HowtoSewon 45

BeltsandCasings24,41

BiasBanding22

BiasBindingsandFacings

CuttingandJoining22

63

Elbow,PlacingDartsat30

EmbroideryandTrimming45

EnlargingAPattern

AtNeck-Line61

AtWaist-Line58

Collai61

Sleeve60

 Yoke58

EpauletSleeve31

EquipmentforHomeSewing7

EssentialStitches15

ExpertnessinDressCutting11

Eyelets35

HipMeasure,HowtoTake55

Hips,toAlterPatternat 57

HomeSewing,Equipmentfor7

HoneycombSmock ing47

HooksandEyes35

HowtoSetin Sleeves30

HowtoTakeMeasurements55

IfYourFigureIs Disproportionate.'.54

Interfacing52

InterliningforCoats52-53

InsertedBanding44

Inserts44

Fabrics,Characteristic sof9

Facings

Piped23

Shaped32

FacingaV-ShapedOpening23

FacingsforCoats38

Faggoting45

FalseBinding

Double17

Single17

FasteningoffMachineStitch21

64

OutlineEyeletswithRunning-Stitch35

OvalPillowforTopof Sleeves13

Overlays,ShapedorCircular42

PatchPockets40

Pattern,Alteration* MayBeNecessary56-61

PicotEdge41

PinkedSeams18

PipedFacings25

Piping25

PlacketsandOpenings34

PlainSewing-Stitches15-16

Pleats29

Pockets40

PointstoRemember10

Pressing,Steaming,Sponging,andShrinking12-13

Pyjamas—AlteringPattern56

QualityofFabric9

QuickMethodofBasting6

QuickWaytoOvercast15

RaglanSleeve,SlashedSeamin31

Revers,Interlining52

Ribbtm-BackedBelt41

Rickrack47

RolledEdges15

RolledHems16

Rosettes47

Ruches45

Ruffles45

Running-Stitch15

StitchesYouShouldKnow

Back-Stitch15

Blanket15

Catch15

Chain43

Cross45

Darning43

Feather45

InVoguePatternArithmetic

oneplusonecanequal four

 Thewomanwhogetsthe mostoutofVoguePatterns

istheonewho usesthemcleverly.Here'swhatwe

mean

Formerly,whenyouhadtwodresses,youhad two

dresses.Now,ifyouarewise, thosetwocanbecome

four.It'ssimple.Fashionsaysblousesandskirts. Vogue

Patternsgiveyouawide choiceoftheseversatilegarments.

Howmanycombinationsyoucanmakewithjust afew

d\\,n\

parts!

Onegoodsuitwith severalblouseswilltakeyou

smartlythroughtheseason.Therightskirt withblouses

indifferentdegreesofformalitycantakeyou toany-

thingfromateato agranddinner.

It'sallin thechoosingand,mayweadd,in the

qualityofthepattern.EveryVoguePatternis simple—but

subtle.Itgoestogetherwith amazingease.Itslineshave

learnedthesecretofflattery.Trustyour finestfabricto

anyVoguePattern...trustyourselftothecostumeit creates.

—-LIBRARY

COLLEGEOFAGRICULTUfii

UNIVERSITYOF

^MAOfS.j