Ultimate Guide to Mens Watches

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Copyright, Legal Notice And Disclaimer This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights: you yo u are not allowed to give or sell this Guide to anyone else. Please note that much of this t his publication is based on personal experience and anecdotal evidence. Although the author and publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this Guide, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular situation may not be exactly suited to the examples illustrated here; in i n fact, it's likely that they won't be the same, and you should adjust your y our use of the information and recommendations accordingly. Any trademarks, service marks, product names or named features are assumed to be the property of their respective owners, and are used only for reference. There is no implied endorsement if we use one of these terms. Finally, use your head. Nothing in this Guide is intended to replace common sense, legal, medical or other professional advice, and is meant to inform and entertain the reader. So have fun and learn to dress sharp!

Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Copyright Real

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Copyright, Legal Notice And Disclaimer This publication is protected under the US Copyright Act of 1976 and all other applicable international, federal, state and local laws, and all rights are reserved, including resale rights: you yo u are not allowed to give or sell this Guide to anyone else. Please note that much of this t his publication is based on personal experience and anecdotal evidence. Although the author and publisher have made every reasonable attempt to achieve complete accuracy of the content in this Guide, they assume no responsibility for errors or omissions. Also, you should use this information as you see fit, and at your own risk. Your particular situation may not be exactly suited to the examples illustrated here; in i n fact, it's likely that they won't be the same, and you should adjust your y our use of the information and recommendations accordingly. Any trademarks, service marks, product names or named features are assumed to be the property of their respective owners, and are used only for reference. There is no implied endorsement if we use one of these terms. Finally, use your head. Nothing in this Guide is intended to replace common sense, legal, medical or other professional advice, and is meant to inform and entertain the reader. So have fun and learn to dress sharp!


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Ultimate Guide to Men’s Watches Written by: Antonio Centeno 2nd Edition, 2017 Copyright 2010-2017, Real Men Real Style


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Table of Contents Copyright, Legal Notice And Disclaimer Table of Contents Introduction Chapter 1: Seven Reasons To Wear A Watch 1. Watches Are Convenient 2. Watches Are Functional 3. Watches Provide Simplicity 4. Watches Signal Style 5. Watches Embody Craftsmanship 6. Watches Make Great Heirlooms 7. You Become More Attuned to How You Spend Time Everyone can rock a watch. Chapter 1 Key Takeaways Chapter 2: Types Of Watches: Formality And Function Dress Watches Casual Watches Functional Watches Chapter 2 Key Takeaways

Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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Chapter 3: Watch Movements 1. Quartz Movement 2. Mechanical Movement 3. Automatic Movement Chapter 3 Key Takeaways Chapter 4: Watch Bands Leather Metal Fabric Chapter 4 Key Takeaways Chapter 5: Dress Watches Dress Watch Features Start Off with a Dress Watch. Chapter 5 Key Takeaways Chapter 6: Field Watches What Makes a Field Watch? The Field Watch and the Modern Man The Bottom Line Chapter 6 Key Takeaways Chapter 7: Aviator Watches Origins of The Aviator Watch The Space Race & Aviator Watches Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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The Digital Age & Aviator Watches The Toughest Aviator Watch You Can Own How to Wear an Aviator Watch? Chapter 7 Key Takeaways Chapter 8: Dive Watches Dive Watch History What Makes a Good Dive Watch? Adding One to Your Collection Chapter 8 Key Takeaways Chapter 9: Racing Watches Racing Watch Style Racing Watch Essentials Adding a Racing Watch to Your Collection Chapter 9 Key Takeaways Chapter 10: Matching A Watch To Your Outfit Match The Formality of Your Watch with The Formality of Your Outfit Watch Categories Levels of Formality Chapter 10 Key Takeaways Chapter 11: How To Buy The Right Watch 1. Educate Yourself On Classic Watch Styles Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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2. Understand The True Value of a Watch 3. Watches & Buyer Protection 4. The Economics of Watch Pricing 5. Find Enjoyment in Wearing Your Watch Chapter 11 Key Takeaways Chapter 12: Proportions: The Right Size Watch For Your Wrist Watch Case Diameter Watch Case Thickness Watch Band Width Chapter 12 Key Takeaways Chapter 13: In What Order to Build Your Watch Collection 1. Personal Style 2. Budget 3. Occupation Chapter 13 Key Takeaways Conclusion


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Check out our RECOMMENDED courses:


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This E-book is dedicated to The Fifth Watches. Why? Well, I need to THANK them for re-introducing me to the joy of wearing a wrist watch. For about 10 years, I stopped wearing a watch. It seemed outdated and redundant with a cell phone always in my pocket. But after speaking with the team at the 5th Watches I decided to give it a try. I’m glad I did. Now I own 5 watches from them and wear them most days here into the office. They’re comfortable, stylish, affordable and I receive compliments every time I wear them. The Fifth Watches is a great company for any man looking to get back into watches or build a collection of pieces he can wear with various outfits. I stand behind them and hope you give them a shot! - Antonio


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How To Claim Your Watch From The Fifth? The Fifth Watches sought to create an exclusive collection – to do that you can’t just buy them anytime you’d like. Their watches go on sale only on the 5th of the month, and then for only five days. They usually sell out quickly, so be sure to sign up as a "VIP Member" to gain first access during their releases. Click HERE to check out The Fifth Watches.


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Introduction


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Introduction “I don’t need a watch; I can check my phone for the time ” This is a common response when I ask people why they don’t wear a timepiece. I can relate. I used to be “that guy” too. Now when I hear that answer, my usual response is “Yeah but a watch won’t consume your life like a phone will, it’ll actually help you live it.” It’s usually not enough to change people’s mind, so I decided to write this e-book. The truth is, watches serve a much greater purpose then just checking the time. Ask a racecar driver, or a pilot (More on that in later chapters). This book is not only going to explain WHY every man should wear a watch, but also how to find and purchase the perfect watch for you. This means relative to your lifestyle, budget, personal style, and occupation.


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Chapter 1: Seven Reasons to Wear a Watch


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Chapter 1: Seven Reasons To Wear A Watch 1. Watches Are Convenient Phones don’t keep you punctual. Watches do. A wrist watch is the most convenient way to tell the time. I don’t need a watch because

I have a phone, is a common response from a generation who are now questioning the adverse effects of constant cellphone use.

Fishing for a cell phone on regular occasions just to check the time looks desperate. A quick glance towards your wrist is a much classier way to keep tabs on time during a date or a meeting. Not to mention how rude it would seem to your companions if you pulled out your phone during a conversation. On other occasions where it's advisable to leave the phone concealed - like the beach, a funeral, a wedding, a watch is a much subtler and convenient way to check time. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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2. Watches Are Functional Any item inspired by the military has a functional use. Wrist watches included. Wrist watches were first used in the 19th century by the military to synchronize maneuvers during war. Since then, specialized watches have been used in the depths of the ocean by divers and high up in the sky by aviators. One of the big advantages of a watch - especially over a smartphone - is how long it can operate in the field. Many watches are made to either be self-powered through motion or use a small amount of energy from a battery. Think years of maintenance free time telling.... compare that to a smart phone's 8 hours! A complicated watch is designed with features beyond the basic function of displaying the time and date. Such a functionality is called a complication. Two of the popular complications are the chronograph, which allows the watch to function as a stopwatch and the moonphase complication, which displays the lunar phase.


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3. Watches Provide Simplicity The best watches don’t use the latest technology. They are powered by ingenious mechanical clockwork technology that predates electricity. So when your cellphone runs out of battery - you can trust the technology that keeps running on your wrist. When you wear a watch - it’s less likely you will fall back on your phone as a distraction. Often, checking the phone for time results in a rabbit-trail of activities including checking every messenger app, email and Facebook. When you need to keep track of something as important as time - a unique device to measure and manage it is justified.

4. Watches Signal Style Compliments. The range of acceptable jewelry for a man is limited. Many men are only going to be seen with three main accessories decorating their hands - a nice watch, a stylish pair of cuff links, and a simple wedding band if they're married. In addition to helping wearers stick to their schedules, wristwatches make it easier for them to display their sense of style. They are a form of self-expression reflecting hint of danger, adventure and sports depending on the make of the watch.

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Watches can communicate a lot about the wearer’s personality. For those that prefer a bit of high-status bling on their wrist, a Rolex can be an understated, timeless and incredibly masculine accessory. As the saying goes - boys look at their smartphones to check time men look at a watch. Call it what you will, a quality luxury watch is a man's equivalent to the engagement ring.


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5. Watches Embody Craftsmanship A wrist watch is more than a time-keeper. It is a symbol of tradition and history encased in a showpiece with extreme craftsmanship. Not many men realize that t hey are wearing pieces of art on their wrist. Some watch houses have four craftsmen working on one watch for several months designing complex pieces of technology by hand. It's detailed art at the higher end of human ingenuity and creativity. An analog watch has a simple and consistent mechanism. The way of expressing it is where the bulk of the creativity comes in. Watch design is inherently artistic. There is a lot of generic and noninspiring watch styles out there, but the best stuff is beautiful and how often do you call a tool beautiful? Art on a watch can come in multiple forms. The dial can literally be a painting, or the design of the instrument itself is pure art. For many people - the movement arouses as much fascination as the dial and case. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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6. Watches Make Great Heirlooms Not only is a timepiece the quintessential gift - it is the quintessential heirloom. No matter what your philosophy is on the end of life, we can all agree that people can live on through the memories of those that knew them. Owning timepieces from a different era is a remembrance of people who lived before you. Having their watches makes you think of them, in a real way. They wore these same watches which show signs of use, care and and love. A watch collection is also a legacy. It doesn't necessarily have to be worth a mini treasure - but leaving your watch(es) to someone you care about is in essence passing on values that were important to you, to someone else.


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7. You Become More Attuned to How You Spend Time Since the days of the sundial (and probably before) - men have been obsessed with devices that measure time. A reminder that our time is limited.

Wearing a watch is a great way to add interest to an outfit, especially if you’re a guy.

Wearing a watch has a positive effect on my attitude towards time. I am more attentive to how I spend my 24 hours. Beyond the technical and mechanical intricacies of a watch men are fascinated by these devices that claim to mark and control time. There is a passionate community of watch lovers who dive into the details of watch-making and collecting.

The only other obsession matched with the passion for this inanimate object is the passion men share for cars. A watch collection is far easier to maintain and less expensive as a hobby.

Everyone can rock a watch. Find a wrist watch that really stands out from the rest. It could be the beginning of a long friendship.


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Chapter 1 Key Takeaways

A

wrist watch is the most convenient way to tell the time.

 Chronographs

allow the watch to function as a

stopwatch.

 Moonphases

 Watches

display the lunar phase.

are heirlooms.

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Chapter 2: Types of Watches Formality and Function


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Chapter 2: Types Of Watches: Formality And Function This E-book will go into greater depth about each type of watch, but this chapter serves as a general overview of the different functions and formalities. There are watches designed for several types of occasions. For simplicity sake we will divide them into three different categories: 1. Dress Watches 2. Functional Watches 3. Casual Watches

Dress Watches Dress watches are arguably the first watch every man should own. Usually found with a leather strap, a dress watch is the go to choice to wear with a suit. They can be dressed down as well with different business casual outfits. Color plays a large role in dress watches as well.


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Here is a quick overview of dress watches: Band of a Dress Watch: •

Leather

Color of Dress Watch Straps: •

Black

•

Dark Brown

•

Tan

•

Cream

Color of Dress Watch Casing •

Silver

•

Rose Gold

•

Gold

Color of a Dress Watch Face •

White

•

Black

•

Metallic

Numbers and Dial of a Dress Watch •

Roman numerals

•

Minimalistic dashes

•

Hour Indexes

•

May or may not have a second hand

•

Always has hour and minute hands


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Casual Watches You can tell a watch is casual from the material and color. Made from different fabrics like nylon or canvas, these work great with vacation outfits or casual clothing. Wear them to the beach, or to a family BBQ where dress attire would be too much. Band of a Casual Watch: •

Nylon

•

Metal

•

Tweed

Color of Casual Watch Straps: •

Various colors and patterns

•

Checks

•

Stripes

•

Red

•

White

•

Blue

•

Purple

•

Black

Color of Casual Watch Casing •

Silver

•

Black

•

Gold

•

Brown

•

Blue

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Color of a Casual Watch Face •

White

•

Black

•

Blue

•

Tan

Numbers and Dial of a Casual Watch •

Digits

•

Digit/Dashes Combination

•

Chrono Face

Functional Watches These are the racing watches, dive watches, aviation watches, and field watches. Each watch serves a purpose and should be worn for specific tasks. The formalities of these watches correlates directly with the purpose they serve. The fabric is usually rubber, canvas, or leather depending on the job. More on each watch in later chapters. Band of a Functional Watch •

Rubber

•

Canvas

•

Leather

•

Metal

•

Depends on the function


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Color of Functional Watch Straps •

Brown

•

Black

•

Tan

•

Silver

Color of Functional Watch Casing •

Silver

•

Black

•

Gold

Color of Functional Watch Face •

Black

•

Blue

•

Brown

•

White

•

Tan

•

Combination of colors

Numbers and Dial of a Casual Watch •

Digital

•

Numerical digits

•

Dive Bezels

•

Chronograph

•

Depends on the function


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•


 Dress

watches are arguably the first watch every man should own.

 Casual

watches are made from different fabrics like nylon or canvas.

 Functional

watches are racing watches, dive watches, aviation watches, and field watches.

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Chapter 3: Watch Movements


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Chapter 3: Watch Movements What is the movement of a watch? And why is it so important? The movement or calib er is what makes a watch tick. Described as the heart of a watch, movement refers to the mechanism that drives the hands on a watch face and powers its complications such as calendar, chronograph or a dual time zone. It is one of the most important parts of the watch. A component you shouldn’t overlook. While most watch purchases are based solely on the exterior, a man who has an eye for detail will appreciate the mechanism on the inside of a watch. A watchmaker spends a majority of his time meticulously designing the interior of a watch. Those aware of watchmaking intricacies insist that carefully crafted mechanisms define a masterpiece and separate it from a mediocre watch.


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There are three types of movement : 1. Quartz - the movement causes the second hand to move in individual ticks. Powered by a battery. 2. Mechanical - the movement will cause the second hand to move in a smooth sweeping motion. The watch requires manual winding to operate. 3. Automatic - kinetic energy from the wearer's wrist is transferred automatically to drive the mechanism inside the watch.


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1. Quartz Movement In 1969, Seiko, the Japanese watchmakers introduced the quartz movement. The launch of this new technology challenged the traditional timepiece houses who relied on mechanical movement to power their watches. In response, most of the established watch companies released their own versions of quartz timepieces, kick-starting an era of batteryoperated wristwatches.


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How Quartz Movement Works 1. A quartz timepiece is powered by a battery that sends an electrical signal through a piece of crystal quartz. 2. The quartz vibrates 32768 times per second, creating a signal with a precise frequency. 3. The vibrations are measured by the circuit and converted into a single pulse every second. 4. The consistent movement of the watch hands is a result of this pulse. Benefits of Quartz Movement •

•

•

•

•

Accurate Time: A quartz mechanism barely veers from the exact time, ensuring superior accuracy. Ease of Use: Quartz watches are battery-powered and do not require human intervention to keep ticking. Low Maintenance: The low number of moving parts and the presence of a battery ensure that quartz watches are lower maintenance. Less Expensive: Mechanical and automatic watches require more watchmaking hours and skill. Quartz watches are hence cheaper. Durability: A quartz timepiece has fewer moving parts that may require repairing, making it more durable than a mechanical watch.

Luxury watch collectors prefer watches with mechanical movement, while quartz watches are preferred for regular use given their superior accuracy and reliability.


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2. Mechanical Movement The passage of time on a mechanical movement watch is measured by a spring-driven mechanism. The spring (also called a mainspring), needs to be wound periodically. Mechanical or manual timepieces perform virtually the same function as those powered by quartz movement. Apart from the lack of a battery, closer inspection reveals something extra - an added emotion that has caught the fancy of many a horologist. A mechanical world of complex spiraling springs and moving gears that fuel the movement of the watch hands with elegant accuracy. Some of the rotor mechanisms on these watches work in conjunction with the earth's gravitations pull - compressing the mainspring during wrist movement and creating kinetic energy that fuels the automatic winding mechanism. The intricate mechanism in these watches can often only be described as art . In fact, with some manual movement watches reading time becomes an afterthought as these classic wristwatches transpire into something else. They are more appropriately termed timepieces, collector's items and accessories. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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How Mechanical Movement Works 1. Unlike quartz movements, a mechanical movement uses energy from the wound mainspring to power a watch, rather than a battery. 2. This spring transfers energy through a number of springs and gears, powering the function of the watch hands and the complications. Benefits of Mechanical Movement •

•

•

Longevity: A well-built mechanical watch will last a lifetime with proper care. Batteries: You don’t need to worry about any battery replacements, which are always an inconvenience. Many consider manual rewinding of a simple mechanic wristwatch to be a strongly desirable ritual. Aesthetics: Many mechanical timepieces have a clear sapphire casing on the back which gives a clear view of the fascinating rotations and oscillations of the minute working parts.

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3. Automatic Movement Often referred to as selfwinding, an automatic watch is a mechanical watch that harnesses kinetic energy from the natural motion of the wearer's wrist. The mainspring is automatically wound from the natural movements of the wearer's wrist. Manual winding is not required.

How Automatic Movement Works The internal mechanism is similar to a mechanical movement. 1. A metal weight called a rotor is added to the manual parts. 2. The rotor can rotate freely and is connected to the movement. 3. The rotor spins with each movement of the wrist, transferring the energy to the mainspring. 4. The mainspring is automatically wound as a result of this energy transfer.


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Benefits of an Automatic Watch: •

•

The ritual of daily winding your watch is not required with an automatic watch. With regular wear, the watch continues to function.

While mechanic watches tend to be comparatively delicate and slim in shape, automatic models are usually thicker because of the additional rotors. A sign of a high quality mechanical watch lies in the weight - it feels hefty in your palm. How to buy a quality watch? Click here to watch the video.


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•


 The

movement or caliber is what makes a watch tick.

 The

three types of watch movements: 1. Quartz 2. Mechanical 3. Automatic

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Chapter 4: Watch Bands


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Chapter 4: Watch Bands Why do watch bands matter? They are the anchor of time on your wrist. Each strap gives a different message. • • •

Function Class Relaxation

The band types convey signals about who you are, and what purpose you’re serving. For example, a rubber strap may signal you are a diver. A leather strap shows the man dressing up for a classy night out. A nylon strap may speak of sandy beaches and drinks with umbrellas in them. Metal gives a heavy accessory feel where leather gives a minimalistic classy mood. When you’re shopping for bands keep wrist size & proportions in mind. Metal bands will look bulkier on smaller wrists, even if they’re the same size as the leather straps. If you have small wrists, it’s best to stay away from metal. One idea is to shop for a watch that comes with interchangeable bands, so you can switch them out when you have different outfits.


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Leather Leather bands are going to give your watch a slimmer look. They have a sleek tone which makes them the primary choice for formal attire. The minimalistic feel from leather band watches give a classic feeling. You also can dress them down, making them the primary choice when starting your watch collection because of the versatility. Leather bands come in a variety of choices. When picking your leather band look at several factors: • • •

They type of leather The padding inside the strap Quality & color of stitching

Click on the above image to view the full infographic.

These matter for several reasons. If the leather is synthetic, the bending of the watch strap to buckle it will begin to crack over time, reducing the number wears and longevity.


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Watches with no padding can begin to feel uncomfortable when worn throughout the day. If you’re wearing it for 12 hours a day you want it to be comfortable on your wrist.

Quality plays an important role in the duration of wears you can get out of the watch.

The stitching is important because the slightest difference in the color of stitching in a watch strap can drop the formality from dressy to casual. You ideally want the stitching to match the color of your leather. Types of leather range from common leather types to exotic. Examples: • • • • • • • • •

Cowhide Calfskin Bison Lizard Snake Alligator Full Grain Top Grain Genuine (Suede) Stay away from faux leather straps!


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Metal A metal watchband, even one the same size as a leather band, will always appear larger & heavier because of the nature of metal. This is an important consideration if you have smaller wrists. Metal bands will present the appearance of a larger watch, making it a primary choice for men with larger wrists. Metal is lower on the formality scale than leather. It goes well with sports coats and a pair of odd trousers or denim. On occasion it’s okay to wear metal bands with suits if it’s not a formal suit. Common types of metals used in watches have a wide range. Examples are: • • • • • • •

Stainless Steel Titanium Aluminum Rhodium Gold Silver Platinum

Each one can come in a polished or natural state. If you want a watch as an heirloom the best options are something with longevity. Titanium and stainless steel in their natural state are great options for that. Solid gold and platinum will also stand the test of time as well, although a more expensive option.


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Fabric Fabric is usually found in functional and casual watches. Material like nylon is an excellent choice for an informal watch. A great place to wear these are anywhere you may be going around water; to the lake, or the beach. The fabric won’t get easily ruined if water happens to splash on it. A great summer accessory! Common types of fabric watches include: • • • •

Rubber Nylon Tweed Plastic blends

When looking for quality it’s best to stay away from plastics. They’re pretty cheap and will easily break over time. Rubber is great for divers or runners that sweat heavily as it won’t absorb water. Tweed is a little dressier and can be matched with business casual outfits.

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•


 Each

watch band may give a message of function, class or relaxation.

 The

three types of watch bands are: 1. Leather 2. Metal 3. Fabric

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Chapter 5: Dress Watches


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Chapter 5: Dress Watches What about a watch whose only function is form? The dress watch.

Dress Watch Features The sole function of the dress watch is to compliment a business suit or formal wear. Dress watches aren’t even that concerned with accurate timekeeping, as many don’t even have second hands.

Click on the above image to view a larger infographic.

So what are the important features to look for then? Put simply, simplicity. Practically speaking, a dress watch should be properly proportioned to the wearer’s wrist. Otherwise, it will draw attention to itself; the one thing a dress watch should never do. Since it is worn with a suit, a dress watch must be thin enough to slip in and out of a dress shirt cuff easily. The standard rules of matching metals and leathers with shoes and belts apply as well. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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After taking these considerations into account, the next most important detail for a dress watch is simplicity. Most dress watches have no complications, or have at most a second hand and a date window. The presentation must be simple as well. Metal sabre style hour indexes are common, as are roman numerals. Arabic numerals may be used but should be small. The dial and bezel should be unornamented, or patterned subtly at most. White, black or metallic faces are preferred.

Cartier Tank Remember, dress watches aren’t going to be read quickly in dynamic environments the way a sport or military watch would. As a result, large, high contrast dials aren’t necessary. Combining all of these features results in a watch which is small, subtle and compliments the formality of the event to which it is worn.


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The Cartier Tank watch was designed around the time of WWI and so-named because it resembled early French tanks when viewed from above. It was a favorite of JFK and with good reason; it’s difficult to think of a watch that looks more presidential. The tank features a square case and distinctive roman numeral hour markers in black on a white dial. It is available in quartz, handwind or automatic movements with prices starting around $2,000 for quartz, all the way up to about the price of a small house for the diamond encrusted variants. If you like the design, but think that up to $8,000 is outrageous for a quartz watch, consider one of the many Tank homage watches available for less than $200.

Hamilton Intra-Matic The Hamilton Intra-Matic is a really nice looking watch that evokes the design aesthetic of the early-1960s. The clean lines and optional silver dial make it subtle enough to excel as a dress watch, yet unique enough to avoid being “just another Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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dress watch”. Like all Hamiltons, it uses an ETA movement and a sapphire crystal. It comes in 38 or 42mm diameters and gold or silver finish, so there’s one to suit you wherever your tastes lie.

Tissot Visodate I wasn’t sure what to make of Tissot at first. They’re known for their sport watches, many of which just aren’t my style. Then I discovered the Heritage line. The Tissot Heritage Visodate looks like something you’d see on the wrist of a physicist at an atomic research lab in the 1950s. That’s a compliment, by the way. I love the look of this watch. It’s available in white and silver or black and gold. The large day/date window looks considerably more discrete on the white and silver, plus that combo just screams space-age. Tissot is a Swatch brand, so it uses an ETA automatic movement like the Intra-Matic we talked about earlier.


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At 40mm it will fit most wrists. It isn’t terribly thin though, so wear your best dress shirt when you try it on to make sure it fits well.

Seiko SRN052 The Seiko SRN052 has a couple of features that really make it stand out. First, the day sub dial below the date window. It makes the watch unique, yet isn’t a distraction from the overall presentation. Second, it uses Seiko’s Kinetic technology. Kinetic is to quartz watches what automatic movements are to mechanical watches. While an automatic uses a rotor to keep the mainspring wound as the wearer’s hand moves, a Kinetic uses the wearer’s movement to charge the battery that powers the quartz movement. It’s the best of both worlds; the accuracy of quartz, without the hassle of having to change batteries. Not bad for less than $200.


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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony When it comes to ultra-high end Swiss luxury watches, the sky is really the limit as far as price is concerned. The bottom end is around the price of a used car, while the top end is literally in the millions of dollars. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony is on the low end of that range at “only” $15,000. That’s not unreasonable, even if it is unreachable for most of us. A watch like this is hand assembled, usually taking weeks or months of extremely skilled labor. It doesn’t use a mass produced movement like a Swatch or Seiko brand. It uses a movement designed and built in-house by a master craftsman. For all that, the finished product is extremely refined. The presentation is elegant, but straightforward and slim, at less than 7mm.


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Start Off with a Dress Watch. You can get by without a field watch. Aviation, diving and racing watches are specialized tools. You don’t need one if you don’t participate in those activities. But every man will be required to dress his best at some point. It may be an important meeting or a job interview. You don’t have to wear a watch at a wedding or a funeral, but if you do, it has to match the formality of the event. A dress watch is the only watch that will serve at formal and business events. For this reason, the dress watch is the only watch in your collection that is absolutely indispensable.


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Click on the above image to read the full article on dress watches. •


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 The

sole function of the dress watch is to compliment a business suit or formal wear.

A

dress watch should be properly proportioned to the wearer’s wrist.

 Match

metals and leathers with shoes and belts

 White,

black or metallic faces are preferred in dress watches.

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Chapter 6: Field Watches


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Chapter 6: Field Watches Imagine a battlefield at the break of dawn. The artillery bombardment goes on for precisely eight minutes. Almost before the last round hits, the infantry assault has begun while the cavalry regiment charges the enemy flank nearly simultaneously. This was what warfare looked like at the turn of the twentieth century. And it was made possible because of the wristwatch. Click on the above image to view a larger infographic.

You see, in the midnineteenth century, only women wore wristwatches. Then some enterprising German officers adapted this ladies’ jewelry into a practical, rugged, tool of warfare. While officers had been coordinating operations with pocket watches for some time, the wristwatch was considerably more practical: smaller, lighter and faster to use.


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As the watch's popularity spread throughout the industrialized militaries of the world, certain design features emerged which would come to epitomize the field watch. The style has persisted and the modern man would be well served by adding one to his collection.

What Makes a Field Watch?

First and foremost, field watches must be rugged.

Traditionally, a good field watch would have a stainless steel case though modern versions may feature PVD coatings or titanium construction. A field watch must be readable, even under low-light or night conditions. As such, it will have a high-contrast black dial with white numbering.

The polished gold hour markers that are common on more formal watches can be slow to read in the field and can create undesirable glare under sunlight. The bands on field watches were traditionally canvas or leather, since they could easily be swapped out if damaged. While metal link bracelets would seem to be the most durable, they are easily scratched and costlier to replace. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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These design features culminated in WWII when the US Army issued contracts for the A-11 followed in the early 1950s by the A-17 watch patterns. These two designs, manufactured by Waltham, Bulova and Elgin, solidified the look of the field watch, which has perpetuated to this day. Most modern field watches take inspiration from these two designs. The major differences being size and movement. The originals were 36mm cases with hand wound movements, while the modern versions are in the 38-44mm range and usually feature automatic or quartz movements.

The Field Watch and the Modern Man The style was immensely popular during and between the world wars and has remained popular ever since. There are field watches available for every budget and so every man should consider adding one to his collection. Here are the most classic brands that manufacture field watches.

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Timex Timex makes a number of field watches in the $30-$60 range. Look for Expedition and Weekender models. At this price point, the case is going to be finished brass with a mineral glass crystal. Don’t let that deter you though; I know military officers who have been wearing Timex watches in the field for years and they’ve held up quite well. This Expedition Scout is a classic example of a field watch and is available in a variety of finishes to suit individual taste.

Wenger Wenger’s Swiss Army line also offers several field watches. The Terragraph series has an iconic dial with small seconds and the inner-outer, 12-24 hour markings of the A-17. They are available in Swiss quartz movements with sapphire crystals, a nice surprise in a sub-$100 watch.


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The Terragraph has some modern additions to complement the classic style. It features a date window, which none of the original field watches had and it has been enlarged to a modern 43mm.

Victorinox Victorinox is the other manufacturer to produce Swiss Army watches. They typically offer a little more refinement than the Wengers, but with a price tag to match. Their quartz offerings will run $200-$500 while their automatic models are typically in the $350-$800 range. They have branded all of their field watches under their Infantry collection.


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The stainless steel Infantry quartz model is a great example of how a little refinement can allow a field watch to do double duty. With a ballistic nylon NATO strap, you could wear it camping over the weekend, then wear it on a leather strap to the office on Monday.

Hamilton Hamilton is a really interesting player in the field watch game. They were producing marine chronographs for the Navy during WWII, they didn’t make any field watches under government contract until around the Vietnam era. As the American economy shifted from manufacturing to information, Hamilton was bought out by the Swatch group, a megaconglomerate including Tissot, Longines, and Omega. While the company was now Swiss-owned, the brand saw a surge in popularity due to savvy movie tie-ins.


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Hamilton secured dozens of movie deals in the 1990s and 2000s. You might recognize the retro-futuristic Ventura from Men in Black or the Khaki line of field watches from Michael Bay’s Pearl Harbor. The Hamilton Khaki isn’t a reproduction or homage watch; they are modern watches with classic style. With models available from 38 to 44mm they have one to fit every wrist and their use of ETA movements guarantees consistent high quality.

Marathon Marathon is one of the only manufacturers producing watches under US military contract today. While best known for their SAR line of dive watches, they have recently issued an updated field watch modeled after the A-17.


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Over the years, the A-17 style was built under several different designations. The last of these was the GGW-113 made for the Air Force in the 1980s. The Marathon General Purpose Mechanical is the modern reinterpretation of the GG-W-113, it even uses original Benrus movements. The GP Mechanical is an interesting combination of modern and traditional. The case has been updated and the illumination is provided by tritium gas tubes, but the movement is handwound and the watch is the traditional 36mm in diameter.

The Bottom Line Field watches are classic, rugged and reliable. The range of features and prices means that any man who desires can add one to his collection.


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 Field

watches must be ruugged.

A

field watch must be readable, even under low-light or night conditions.

 The

bands on field watches were traditionally canvas or leather.


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Chapter 7: Aviator Watches


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Chapter 7: Aviator Watches Watch es Sunglasses. Bomber jackets. Watches. These are some of the things that come to mind when we think about aviator style. Today Today we’re going to talk about aviation watches. I’ve always had a keen interest in aviators’ watches and I’m going to share my insights and observations to help you y ou choose your ideal timepiece. There isn’t any one style that defines an aviator watch. In watch. In keeping with the forward thinking nature of the aviation industry, the type has grown and developed as new technology and new requirements have emerged.

Click on the above image to view a larger infographic. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Copyright Real

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Origins of The Aviator Watch The earliest watches worn by pilots were simply repurposed field watches. They had to be accurate, of course and they had to be readable under low-light conditions. Field watches, with their hand-wound movements and black dials with large white numerals satisfied both of these requirements. Over time, air forces around the world began to develop watches with specific aviation functions. In the 1930s the Luftwaffe developed the Flieger style of watches: The Type-A Type-A with simple numerals and delta index at 12 o’clock, and the Type-B with large minutes in the outer dial and hours in the inner dial. The original Type-B was a massive 55mm and was issued to navigators who needed precise timing for dead-reckoning dead -reckoning navigation: finding a target by flying solely referencing time and magnetic heading. Three of the five original manufacturers still produce fliegers today. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style Copyright Real

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Laco, Stowa and IWC. They aren’t huge anymore though, they’ve been scaled down from the massive original watch. Lacos Type-As are available in quartz or Japanese automatic movements. The Laco Paderborn Type-B is their flagship offering in Swiss automatic with traditional thermal blued steel hands Stowa watches are only available directly from their website. They produce traditional Fliegers with Swiss automatic movements. IWC is a Swiss luxury manufacturer. Their Fliegers are modern updates to the Type-A. Expect to spend between $4,000 and $15,000 for an IWC.


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The Space Race & Aviator Watches In the jet-age, as pilots found themselves flying across multiple time zones a new requirement emerged. In order to standardize global operations, airlines and air forces began coordinating operations based on Greenwich Mean Time, aka GMT or Zulu time. In response, Rolex developed the GMT Master II featuring two hour hands, one corresponding to the traditional 12-hour watch face on the dial and the other synchronized to a 24-hour bezel. This allowed pilots to track flight time with the Zulu bezel and still use the local time zone while on the ground. Once the space race got into full swing and astronauts became celebrities, watch manufacturers were quick to advertise the watches that NASA selected for use in space. The most famous such watch is the Omega Speedmaster Professional.


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Ed White wore his personal Speedmaster during the first space walk and NASA then selected it as the standard issue watch for the Apollo program.

The Digital Age & Aviator Watches Aviation watches can vary from super-minimal displays which provide a very quick read, to feature heavy watches which have a lot of complications. Citizen’s Hawk watches are definitely the latter. The three versions: The Navihawk, Skyhawk and Nighthawk all feature multiple time zones, solar quartz movements, 1/100s chronographs and their most distinctive feature, the circular slide rule. The circular slide rule, or “whiz wheel” is a tool used by pilots to perform all kinds of time/fuel/distance calculations and unit conversions.


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It can be an extremely useful feature if you know what you are doing and knowing how to use one is a sign of credibility among aviators. The Hawks are complicated; in fact, some would say they are too busy. Their metal case designs and link bracelets or optional leather bands make them suitable for business and casual occasions, while their rugged design means they can stand up to outdoor or active use as well. In my experience, airplane pilots tend to prefer Skyhawks, while the Nighthawk is favored by helicopter pilots.


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The Toughest Aviator Watch You Can Own As far as digital watches go, there is only one name worth mentioning: Casio G-Shock. The GW-500 is probably the most common watch in the US Air Force, worn by the majority of the pilots I’ve met. It is extremely tough, solar powered, features dual time zone functionality and receives a radio time signal for the most accurate timekeeping available. I bought mine in pilot training eight years ago, it’s been to Iraq and Afghanistan and is still going strong. It is one of the most rugged looking watches around though, and is only suited for use in the field.

How to Wear an Aviator Watch?

Most aviation watches lend themselves well to casual and business casual wear.

The watches, much like the pilots who inspired them, can be a bit ostentatious and inappropriate in more formal settings. Make sure you have the confidence to bend the rules if you choose to wear one with a suit.

Whether you prefer the simple utility of the Flieger, the cutting edge features of the Skyhawk or the history behind the Speedmaster Pro, there is an aviation watch to suit every man’s style.


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•


 Aviator

watches are accurate and readable under low light conditions.

 The

first aviator watches have 2 hour hands.

 The

circular slide rule, or “whiz wheel” is a tool used by pilots to perform all kinds of time/fuel/distance calculations and unit conversions.

 Most

aviation watches lend themselves well to casual and business casual wear.


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Chapter 8: Dive Watches


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Chapter 8: Dive Watches Goldfinger .

Having planted the plastic explosives, Bond sets the timer on the detonator after first checking the time on his Rolex Submariner. Later, after removing his scuba gear to reveal an immaculate white dinner jacket, he again glances at his watch as a massive explosion rocks the nightclub. Just like that, Sean Connery propelled the dive watch into stardom, where it has remained ever since.



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Dive Watch History Along with the field watch and the aviation watch, the dive watch is one of the most prolific men’s watch styles. It should be obvious that accurate timekeeping is crucial when hundreds of feet underwater while carrying a finite supply of air.

The dive watch is one of the most prolific men’s watch styles.

As a result, divers have always demanded superior timepieces. Modern scuba didn’t really exist until the 1950s, right around the time Ian Fleming started writing the James Bond novels. Fleming wrote the novels every summer while vacationing at his home in Jamaica, where he was an avid diver. This was the same time that Rolex introduced the Submariner and so Bond, diving and Rolex have been linked ever since.

What Makes a Good Dive Watch? In addition to accuracy, a dive watch must also possess superior water resistance. A true diver will conform to the ISO 6425 standard, a series of tests designed to ensure resistance to at least 100 meters, though many will offer even greater resistance. Case and band material must be corrosion resistant, so stainless steel, titanium, silicone and rubber are often used. Bands are typically longer than usual in order to fit over bulky dive equipment. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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While sapphire is often the desired watch crystal material, divers may prefer hardened mineral glass. Even though it scratches more easily than sapphire, it is more resistant to breakage, which can be catastrophic when deep underwater. The defining characteristic of the dive watch is the uni-directional bezel. A good dive bezel will only rotate counter-clockwise. This enables to the diver to set the index to the minute hand at the beginning of the dive and easily see how long he has been under. If the uni-directional bezel is inadvertently rotated, it will show greater time underwater rather than less. By erring on the side of caution the diver can avoid exceeding his available air or providing insufficient decompression time.

The Iconic Original Rolex Submariner Dive Watch You can’t talk about dive watches without talking about the Rolex Submariner. I couldn’t even write the introduction to this article without bringing it up.


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Nearly every other dive watch has copied at least some aspect of the Submariner’s design. It’s the quintessential dive watch. An authentic one will set you back almost $7,000 and you’ll have to get used to being asked “Is it a real Rolex?”. The Submariner is probably the most copied watch in existence. Strangely enough, even a knock-off Rolex can still be a pretty high quality watch. But if you want the real thing, make sure you buy from an official dealer.

The Other Bond Watch James Bond has always had a knack for fancy watches. A style icon like Mr. Bond needs a watch that not only matches his elegant taste but also his performance for MI6.


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The modern cinematic James Bond hasn’t lost touch with his diving roots either. In the Daniel Craig era, Bond favors the Omega Seamaster Pro. With its in-house automatic movement and high-end refinements such as sapphire crystal, two-tone stainless steel band and distinctive scalloped bezel, the Seamaster looks great and has the performance to match.

Navy SEALs, What the Professionals Wear A group of world class, top-tier operators like the Navy SEALs are going to demand only the best from their equipment. Their dive skills are what distinguish the SEALs from their brother special operations forces and so they, like Bond are known for their taste in watches. Luminox has had a longstanding relationship with the SEALs starting with their 3001 Original Navy SEAL Dive Watch. The line has since expanded to include several models in the $150-$200 price range. The watches are tough polyurethane cases with hardened mineral crystals, Swiss quartz movement and tritium gas illumination. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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Most watches use phosphorescent illumination, which requires it to be charged in bright light before it works. Tritium is a radioactive isotope of hydrogen, which is selfilluminating; bright, constant light with no charging and it lasts about 15 years.

Seiko Dive Watch Seiko’s dive watches provide a number of desirable features at a very attractive price. The Seiko SKX173 uses a Japanese automatic movement and uses nearly unbreakable Hardlex mineral crystal. The stainless case and polyurethane band are durable and corrosion resistant.


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The watch provides 200m of depth resistance and comes in under $200.

Suunto Dive Watch Suunto refers to their watches as “wrist -top computers” and there is no more apt description for the range of features that they provide. The Suunto Core features barometer, depth measurement, altimeter, compass and oh yeah, it also tells time. Suuntos are another popular watch among spec-ops forces who might have to parachute or dive to a location and then navigate overland to an objective. The range of features and calculations means this one tool can stepup to many of the situations that these operators made encounter.


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Marathon Dive Watch Marathon is best known for the SAR line of dive watches, so named because they were designed for use by the Canadian Air Force’s Search and Rescue Technicians (SAR Techs). It looks a bit like a Submariner on steroids, and Marathon is fond of drawing the comparison, as they advertise on their site “A Rolex is a jewel, a Marathon is a tool”. It uses a Swiss Automatic movement, features tritium illumination and is just about bulletproof.

Adding One to Your Collection As you can see, dive watches run the gamut from ultra-high-end to exceptionally rugged. Recognize the place in your wardrobe you want the watch to fit and choose the right watch within your budget. •

Whether you’re a diver or just an admirer of the style an d heritage there’s a dive watch to suit you.


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•


 Accurate

A

timekeeping is crucial in dive watches.

dive watch must possess superior water resistance.

 Case

and band material must be corrosion resistant, so stainless steel, titanium, silicone and rubber are often used.

A

good dive bezel will only rotate counter-clockwise.


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Chapter 9: Racing Watches


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Chapter 9: Racing Watches When one thinks of racing watches, one name immediately comes to mind: Steve McQueen His association with auto racing, motorcycles, leather jackets and pretty much everything “cool” made him a serious trendsetter. Being a box-office star didn’t hurt either. When he set out to make Le Mans, a fictionalized account of the real 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance race, he was presented with several watch choices by the head of Swiss Heuer. He selected the Heuer Monaco and immortalized it.



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Racing Watch Style So far we’ve looked at field, aviation and dive watches. With their military heritage, those styles tend to look very utilitarian. You’ll have far more exotic color and style options when selecting a racing watch than say, a field watch. Just remember that the flashier the watch, the more casual it becomes and dress accordingly.

Racing Watch Essentials

Racing watches, not being bound by uniformity, tend to be much flashier.

There are two features which define a good race watch. A chronograph and a tachymeter. A chronograph is a watch with a separate stopwatch function, usually featuring an extra subdial (or three) and pushers at the 2 and 4 o’clock positions to start/stop and reset the second hand. A tachymeter is a type of bezel used to make time and distance calculations.

By measuring the number of seconds to travel a known distance, the outer markings will show speed in the unit measured per hour. Sound complicated? Try this example: If you started timing at zero seconds and went a mile in 30 seconds, you would look down and Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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see 120 at the 6 o’clock (or 30 second) position on the bezel. The watch is telling you that your speed is 120 miles per hour. It doesn’t matter what unit of measure you use; the tachymeter still reads units per hour. Obviously that can be useful to a racer calculating laps per hour at a track.

The Steve McQueen Monaco The Heuer Monaco that was featured in Le Mans is still produced by Heuer (now TAG Heuer). There are several versions, with the Calibre 11 being the most similar to the McQueen version. It has all the features you’d expect: Swiss automatic movement, sapphire crystal, chronograph, but it comes in a very distinctive square case. TAG Heuer has an extensive line of racing watches besides the Monacos. The Carrera line has the same racing roots as the Monaco but in a more modern and aggressive style.


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The Rolex Daytona The Daytona is Rolex’s racing chronograph. They start at $12,000 but there are variants that are among the most sought after watches on Earth and they are also associated with a movie star turned racer. Paul Newman favored Rolex Daytonas with contrasting dials and subdials. The so-called panda Daytona for their black and white faces are the most desired of these. No longer in production, they routinely sell at auction for several hundred thousand dollars. Naturally, there are more fakes in existence than real ones.


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The Seiko Sportura If like most of us, you aren’t going buy a racing watch that costs more than a race car then you should check out the Sportura line from Seiko. Featuring solar powered quartz movements, bold colors, a large face, and sapphire crystal and coming in at under $500, you’re sure to find one you like. I’m partial to the SSC274 with its rose gold and black finish.

Omega Speedmaster You may recall the so-called Moon Watch from the Aviation Watches, but Ed White’s famous Omega was actually a racing chronograph. The Speedmaster includes the usual Omega refinements, in-house automatic movement, sapphire crystal, but the style choices range from the conservative to the bold.


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Torgoen Torgoen is a Swiss watch manufacturer that started out making aviation watches. They’ve since branched out and now offer racing watches. The T18 line has all the bells and whistles, but what I really like about them is the dial. They’ve taken the standard three sub-dial chronograph face and detailed it to resemble the crankshaft and cylinder heads of a V-configuration racing engine.

Adding a Racing Watch to Your Collection As you can see, there is a broader range of options when it comes to racing watches than with any style we’ve discussed thus far. Some racing watches could work with business casual attire, while others are sport watches and might not even be appropriate for casual wear.


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The important thing to remember is that racing watches are designed to complement race cars and their drivers. Making a statement, being loud, is kind of the point. Don’t be afraid to go bold. Here’s a video on watch styles. Click here to watch.


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•


 Racing

watches tend to be more flashier, more exotic in color.

 The

two features which define a good race watch: 1. Chronograph 2. Tachymeter

 Some

racing watches could work with business casual attire, while others are sport watches.


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Chapter 10: Matching A Watch To Your Outfit


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Chapter 10: Matching A Watch To Your Outfit Rules to match your watch with your outfit ? Sounds a little too much? Imagine a man in a tuxedo at a black-tie event. He has poise, style and a posture that grabs everyone’s attention. He casually turns his wrist to check the time… a Casio calculator wristwatch with a rubber strap… FAIL!! This is the power of a wristwatch, gentlemen – it can either break or build an outfit! Since men wear limited jewelry, a watch is an expression of their personality. The best wristwatches are simple, versatile, sophisticated and classic. Most men prefer to own more than one watch so they can wear the appropriate timepiece to complement their outfit.


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The style of watch you choose to wear needs to match the formality of your outfit . What are the 5 watch-matching rules that are timeless and relevant in any situation?

Match The Formality of Your Watch with The Formality of Your Outfit Digital or analog watches? Dress or casual ?

What’s the difference? Analog watches have a face with hour and minute hands and either markers or numbers that display a 12hour day. These watches are considered classic and more formal, making them suitable for business, formal events or a date. Digital watches have a LCD display or LED face that shows time in numeric form. These watches are considered casual .


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Watch Categories The recent developments in wearable technology has allowed watchmakers to make nifty gadgets that are far advanced than simple timepieces. You can make calls, track your GPS co-ordinates and check your calendar through gadget watches. Leaving exclusive gadget watches out of the equation, there are five categories of watches that most men own… Dress Watches – A watch with a plain white face and no complications and a black leather band is as formal as it gets. The most formal dress watch are the ones that only show hours, minutes, seconds and maybe the date. Complications in dress watches are simpler and not related to sport. Diver’s watches – Also referred to as a diving watch, these were originally worn as work/tool watches. Designed for underwater diving, these watches feature a minimum water resistance up to 100 meters.

Don’t be inspired by James Bond movies and wear a divers watch with a suit. That’s the equivalent of wearing a suit with work boots.


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Chrono / Sports Watches – Not a true dress watch, but can be quite dressy especially in the higher brands. Sports watches are durable, sleek and made from high-quality plastic composites. Expect compasses, odometers, altimeters, GPS technology, pulse monitors, and a range of other functions for the guy leading an active lifestyle. Pilot or flyer watches – Featuring a simple dial design and a rather large (over 50mm) diameter, these watches were made to be accurate and easy to read. Originally worn over the pilot’s jacket – they were made with a large crown that could be operated while wearing gloves. Field Watches – During World War I, the hacking character of a field watch allowed infantrymen to stop the seconds hand on their timepieces in order to synchronize their watches. Field watches are versatile timepieces that are tough enough for active duty. The simple design improves legibility of the numerals. Typically, these watches are moderately sized, with a white or green numerals against a black dial and work on a hand winding mechanism.


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Levels of Formality Watches are made for a specific purpose. Avoid common fashion blunders by matching your watch style with the formality of the occasion. Black tie / White Tie – For formal events, simplicity is key. Historically – it would be considered rude if you were to refer to your watch at such an event. A simple dress watch in a classic style and black leather band will mute any objections from conservative observers. Business dress – For business – go with a simple and classic styled gold or silver watch with a thin dial with limited or no complications. A dark conservative suit is best paired with a classic dress watch or a diver watch with a leather strap. Business Casual – A light colored suit with no necktie is best complimented with a high-end chrono, a pilot or even a smart field watch. Casual – If a watch has a metal band, it is considered less formal. A metal band is generally suitable for casual wear while a leather band is suitable for any purpose. Any of the watch categories can be worn with jeans, a chambray shirt and dress boots combination. Digital watches should only be worn with casual clothes or workout attire. Sports – For activities that involve unpredictable physical movements, such as sports, a dress watch would be inappropriate. The strap, case and watch dial are protected with materials that allow you to focus on the activity – no need to worry about your watch snapping off your wrist or the glass shattering mid-game.


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Leather Complements Leather The material and color of your shoes is a suitable reference for the choice of watchband. You should start by matching your belts and shoes. A black watchband should be worn with black shoes and belt; a brown band with brown belt and shoes. A silver or gold band suits either color. Interchangeable bands are an excellent option for men who own shoes in different colors. The watchbands don’t have to be the exact same color as your shoes, but a similar tone (light vs medium vs dark).


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•

•

Don’t wear a black band watch with a brown tone shoe. Or a brown band with black shoes. A watch with a rubber band is strictly for casual or sporting occasions. A chronometer is made for sport and styled for sport. It should generally be worn for sport.

A good leather strap is the classic choice,

Plastic bands are used for more casual digital watches. In analog timepieces, the watchband is either made of leather or the same kind of metal used on the case. Rough, worn-in leather straps work better with jeans. Such a watch would not be appropriate at a fine-dining event.

Gold or silver bands are appropriate when they complement the rest of your outfit.

Metal Complements Metal The metal case of the watch (the frame around the face) should complement the metal accents of your other accessories. The case can be square, rectangular, round, and polygonal. The finish on the case can be matte, shiny, matte, patterned, or inlaid with crystals or other jewels. The metals used to make the case include steel, gold, silver, platinum and titanium. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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A rose gold watch can be worn with a gold belt buckle – it’s close enough. What if the metal casing on the watch is blacked out? Then you can go with either gold or silver. You want to coordinate the metal color with your watch and ring, so that all your accessories, for example, are gold. The other accessories you will need to pay attention to include cuff links, shoe buckles, buckles on the side adjusters of trousers or on the back of your waistcoats and any other piece of jewelry on your outfit. A gold-plated watch is best-suited to clothes and shoes in earthy tones, while silver goes with grey, blue and black.

Heirloom Watches Bend the Rules Heirloom pieces represent a legacy. They are usually worn as a good-luck charm or as a memory of original owner. An heirloom watch is an item that cannot be subjected to the rules of matching watches with clothes. For a simple reason – they are great conversation pieces and they make you memorable.


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Heirlooms allow you to bend and even violate the rules mentioned here. An heirloom watch is not worn based on the latest trends or fashions, it is a reminder of family history and culture. Men who fought in World War I passed on their wristwatches to their sons and grandsons as a memory of the sacrifices made by that generation. Though the function of these watches is not as a timekeeper these heirlooms are meant to be cherished and passed on through the generations.


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When in Doubt Match Your Watch to Your Shoes Black is generally dressier, but that doesn’t make it the default right choice. Sometimes brown shoes are just a better choice. Interchangeable leather bands are useful here – one in brown and one in black for each watch. Or another color for more variety. Black leather is more formal than brown. A black watchband is more suited for formal events. Slip-on tassel loafers are considered business casual. Not able to decide between a brown or black leather band? Equate the dressiness to the brown shoe versus black shoe category. Silver watches match best with shoes in black, gray, silver, and blue shades. Gold watches go with browns, beiges, tans, and other earth tones. Wearing Oxford balmoral black shoes with a dark suit? Go with a formal watch. For the best effect, pick a watch according to your size as well.

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Watches should be proportionate to your body. Thin men can work slim watches, while bigger guys can carry watches that have boxier and robust watch faces. Use these tips to ensure a harmony between your clothes and your watch. Here’s a video on matching your outfit with you watch. Click here to watch in Youtube.


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•


 Watches

are made for a specific purpose.

 The

material and color of your shoes is a suitable reference for the choice of watchband.

 The

metal case of the watch should complement the metal accents of your other accessories.

 An

heirloom watch is not worn based on the latest trends or fashions, it is a reminder of family history and culture.

 Watches

should be proportionate to your body.


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Chapter 11: How To Buy The Right Watch


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Chapter 11: How To Buy The Right Watch I learned a valuable lesson about buying watches from a shady shop in Hong Kong. It was a lesson that cost me $500. While on a business trip to China, I got pulled into a back room and was offered five luxury watches for a steal. They were counterfeit luxury watches. They looked really nice and I was tempted by the brand names on the watches – Breitling, Louis Vuitton, Rolex. And against my better judgement I violated all the sensible watch-buying rules ever written and paid $100 for each watch. I have never worn those watches.

I wasted $500 that day – please learn from my mistakes in this article so you can make a smart buying decision when purchasing a watch. You see, a quality watch isn’t just a tool that shows time. A man’s watch is a sign of taste, where you are in life, and it’s something that shouldn’t be “faked”.


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And let me be clear – any man can buy a great watch at a very affordable price. But like anything stylish – what watch you wear is a reflection of your personal taste and the image you wish to project. Own it – and feel great about it when you wear it. So how to buy a quality watch at a fair price? Whether you’re looking for accuracy of time, a fashion accessory or something you want to leave your grand-kids – here are my five tips that will help you purchase the right timepiece.

1. Educate Yourself On Classic Watch Styles To make a sensible and practical wristwatch purchase – you have to go out there and learn more about watches. There is a whole industry built around horology – the science of making timepieces. For centuries – watchmakers have honed their craft to create complicated pieces of mechanism that are built to outlive the person wearing them. There is enough information on commercially available watches in forums created by watch-lovers. Numerous websites and blogs offer the latest news on wristwatch designs. You can even browse through brand specific websites to compare what makes these watches tick – Rolex, Breitling, Seiko, Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe.


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Get excited about watches and you’ll then find the time to discover why so many men love them! Get to know a local watchmaker or jeweler – they are storehouses of knowledge and are always willing to talk about different wristwatch options. The salesperson at your local watch store will be more than willing to recommend watches to suit your lifestyle.

2. Understand The True Value of a Watch One of the first criteria that comes up in a watch purchase is price. However, it is more important to consider the value of a watch before discussing pricing. A simple formula to assess the value of a watch (Frequency of Use X The Feelings Associated with Wearing It) ÷ The Price of the Watch Price is not the most important thing. Although most of have a specific budget in mind – it is better to spend a little extra to buy a quality watch.


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Remember the fake watches I bought in Hong Kong? They represent no value to me because I don’t wear them. When you find a great company that feels and looks great on your wrist, you’ve already gotten your money’s worth and the value is high. That’s what you want to strive for in any watch you purchase – wear it, love it, and reduce the cost per wear to pennies!

3. Watches & Buyer Protection Be careful when purchasing watches online. Check the reputation of both the dealer and company first. If they’re new, make sure they have testimonials and or a strong social media presence where they are engaging with customers and following up with questions. A manufacturer who is willing to ensure quality will exchange watches that have been damaged in shipping or have manufacturing defects.


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You are also more likely to get standard issue warranties to cover repairs from certified dealers or when you buy from the manufacture themselves. If you’re willing to spend $500 on a watch – make sure you get one that represents quality instead of five that are fake. There is a lot counterfeiting in the watch business. It is best to purchase your watch from an authorized dealer or jeweler.

4. The Economics of Watch Pricing The different grades of watches vary in the craftsmanship, quality of materials used and amount of labor involved. Timepieces under $250 – Consumer Watches These are considered fashion watches that you can purchase to wear with an outfit. You are not going to feel too bad if they break after a couple of years. Although watches in this category are not meant to be heirloom pieces, you can find some great deals here and a well-made watch at this price point can last decades. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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Under $1000 – Brand & Enthusiast Watches This is a good price range for men with disposable income looking to purchase their first statement quality watch. Of all the ranges – this is the one that has the widest variety of quality levels and you can find deals or get ripped off. I advise you not buying your first watch at this price point as you’ll want to have tested a few at lower price points to ensure you’re going to get your money’s worth and enjoyment from a watch at this level. Think of watches at this level as a gateway t the next price point! $1000 – $10,000 – Luxury Watches

Luxury watches by definition, are exclusive items and signal to certain people your ability to afford them.

This is the bracket of wellknown names. You get what you pay for here and once you start to spend this type of money you need to know more about watches than 99% of men or else you’re getting ripped off. Over $10,000 – Ultra Luxury Watches At this level it’s not uncommon for diamonds, gold and other precious stones to be on the watch face.


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Many of the of these watches are not available for public sale – they literally are controlled and only made available to select clientele. Most of these exclusive watches carry a rich heritage of exquisite craftsmanship and exceptional quality. Watches as an investment? All the more power to you if you can afford a 10K watch, but in general watches are not an investment. It is unlikely that you will retrieve the money spent on it when trying to sell under duress. It’s like buying a Harley Davidson motorcycle – it’s only worth what a buyer will pay for it.

5. Find Enjoyment in Wearing Your Watch A good quality watch is an expression of your individualism. Only buy a watch that you are going to enjoy and love wearing. If you don’t enjoy wea ring your watch – you’ve wasted your money.


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Choose it yourself because it should reflect your personality. Unlike other items that men traditionally buy to express themselves, such as cars, a wristwatch is on constant display. A watch is a conversation starter. Watches are practical purchases that can be worn for decades. A fine wristwatch can signify a milestone or an achievement – like graduating from college or getting your first job. It stays on your hand as a reminder of what you have achieved. Watches are not just a functional piece – you need to enjoy wearing it too. Here are 7 reasons to wear a watch. Click here to watch.


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•


 Learn

the science of making timepieces.

 (Frequency

of Use X The Feelings Associated with Wearing It) ÷ The Price of the Watch

 Check

the reputation of both the dealer and company.

A

watch is a conversation starter.


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Chapter 12: Proportions: The Right Size Watch For Your Wrist


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Chapter 12: Proportions: The Right Size Watch For Your Wrist As human beings we are drawn towards natural balance. Leaning towards correct proportions is instinct, whether we're balancing a checkbook or building a house. Generally speaking, if you have a smaller wrist, you will want a smaller watch. If you have a larger wrist you will want a larger watch. Let's break that down a little bit more into 3 key elements. 1. Watch Case Diameter 2. Watch Case Thickness 3. Watch Band Width


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Watch Case Diameter Case Diameter is the most obvious and noticeable element of proportion. Men's watches usually range from 38mm to 46mm. Anything above 46mm starts to become too large, and is usually reserved for flashy outfits. Anything below 38mm leans towards jewelry and eases into women's size watches.

So how do you know what size works for you? Measure your wrist. You can use a dollar bill as a hack to measure. Modern US Paper Currencies are 6 inches in length. Wrap it around your wrist to find the circumference. Ultimate Guide To Men’s Watches – 2nd Edition 2017 – Copyright Real Men Real Style

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If your wrist is 6 to 7 inches you will be a small to medium wrist size. The small to medium diameter cases are 38mm, 40mm, and 42mm. If your wrist is 7.5 to 8 inches in circumference, that will be more proportional with large cases which are 44-46mm.

Watch Case Thickness Case thickness is oftentimes directly correlated to case diameter. Back when mechanical watches were dominating the market it was perceived that a thinner case was higher quality. This is no longer the case now with electronic watches entering the market, as well as quartz designs. A general rule is, as the diameter of the case increases or decreases, the thickness does as well. Usually for 38mm to 42mm diameter you will see around 7 mm in thickness. Once you get up to 44mm and beyond the thickness increases to around 9mm.

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The thickness of the case will usually be best proportioned to your body if you choose the right case diameter

Watch Band Width A well-proportioned watch usually has a band width of about half its case diameter. If you wear a 40mm watch, the width should be approximately 20mm in width. Depending on your style preference you may want to wear a watch with a wider band width. My preference is for smaller band widths, however, I do have smaller wrists.


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If you have larger wrists, you may lean towards wider bands. If you are only shopping for cases and want to pick out a band later, you can determine what the width of the band will be based on the lug width.

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•


 If

you have a smaller wrist, you will want a smaller watch.

 If

you have a larger wrist you will want a larger watch.

 As

the diameter of the case increases or decreases, the thickness does as well.

 You

can determine what the width of the band will be based on the lug width.

Share this eBook!


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Chapter 13: In What Order To Build Your Watch Collection


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Chapter 13: In What Order to Build Your Watch Collection For a newcomer in the watch world, purchasing a timepiece can feel like a daunting task. Two identical watches can differ by more than a few hundred dollars. How do you make a decision and end up with a watch that you would be proud to wear? There is no such thing as a bad watch. They all perform the same basic function - tell time. Your watch purchase should therefore be according to your personal style, budget and occupation. In that particular order.


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1. Personal Style Your watch should be an extension of your own personal style. The first piece in your watch collection should be simple, classic in design and restrained. A timepiece that would look good with a suit or your weekend clothes.

A dress watch in a classic slim design with plain gold or silver metal accents should be your first choice.

The watch face must not be oversized or over styled. Choose a watch your shirt cuff can fit over. Avoid gaudy and eyecatching embellishments. It is unlikely your watch will go out of fashion if you follow this advice. Whether you are attending black-tie events, dinner at a fancy restaurants or operas, a classic dress wristwatch can be dressed up or down based on the formality of the occasion.

A casual watch is a dress-down timepiece you can wear anywhere from a day out in town to a beach stroll or to coffee with friends. You won't have to worry about a quick dive in the pool or a round of golf while wearing this watch. Perhaps you enjoy diving and need a watch specifically for that purpose. Ensure your watch complements your lifestyle.


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2. Budget Your budget determines the type of watch movement you purchase. If you only have a couple of hundred dollars, a minimal quartz watch from a recognized brand will suffice. Further up the price scale are the coveted mechanical and automatic wristwatches which are assembled with great care and skill. The price of a wristwatch is a reflection of the materials used in the construction, the duration of the manufacturing process and most importantly the country of origin for the brand. It is advisable to stay within your allocated budget for your first timepiece. If you cannot resist the temptation t emptation to purchase a watch that is above your price range - look into the second-hand market. At all costs, don't consider your watch as a financial investment. You'll never get the money back that you spent on it.


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3. Occupation Arguably one of the most famous watch brands today, back in the '50s and '60s, Rolex was known almost exclusively by the professional divers and pilots who relied on the functions the watches offered. A few questions to ask yourself before making your yo ur watch purchase: Do you have a job that requires a functional watch? When and where will you be wearing your watch? The first watch in your collection should be a timepiece that is appropriate for most of your working hours. A banker or financier needs to select a watch watc h that reflects the sobriety of their workplace. A frequent traveler would benefit from a watch face that shows multiple time-zones. A bold watch on an entrepreneur's wrist acts as an ice-breaker while a pilot's watch has to be easily readable.


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Avoid trying to find a watch that is right for every situation. If your occupation doesn't require a functional watch, the dress watch should be the first watch you buy. It is the most versatile and as already stated - it can be dressed up or dressed down based on the occasion. The watch you select needs to be fashionable, financially viable and functional. After considering these three factors, make sure you buy a watch that thrills you every time you catch a glimpse of it on your wrist.


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•


 Ensure

your watch complements your lifestyle.

 Don’t

consider your watch as a financial investment. You'll never get the money back that you spent on it.

 The

first watch in your collection should be a timepiece that is appropriate for most of your working hours.

 The

watch you select needs to be fashionable, financially viable and functional.


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Conclusion


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Conclusion So, still want to check your phone for the time? OR would you rather adorn your wrist with a classic timepiece and make your statement to the world. No matter your budget, lifestyle, or occupation there is a perfect watch out there for you. This is just the tip of the iceberg. We want to invite you to become a watch enthusiast and learn what many men around the world already understand. That watches are a journey to making time become a bigger part of your life. It is after all the most precious commodity. Don’t waste it on your phone… ;)


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Ultimate Guide to Mens Watches

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